Volume 2 — CHAPTER IX.

(NORTH-WESTERN SUDAN.)

106.—SELIMA to NILE opposite KOSHA.

By Captain H. Hodgson, February, 1903.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Selima — — Track to river bears at first at 152°, and after ascending out of valley turns, and, bearing to point on road 3 miles away, where the trees of Selima are last sighted, is 118° (Magnetic). On top of rise, 6 miles out from well, a pair of hills are sighted on horizon, at bearing of 124° (Magnetic), which are close to the track and about half way to river. These twin hills of conical shape must not be confused with another pair lying about 80° or 90°. Track diverges northwards slightly, and runs at bearing of 119° to a conspicuous and isolated peak; best route lies close to the N. of this peak. Country flat; a sandy plain, with few land marks.

First halt 38½ 38½ Halted after going 2 miles past twin peaks.

River Nile, opposite to Kosha 41 79½ The regular track to the river goes to Sagiet El Abd, and runs to S. of a mass of black rocky hills lying in the centre of a sandy plain. These hills are spoken of as Jebel El Tult. I marched to the N. of these hills, and struck the river opposite to Ginnis, the land mark being the hill marked Jebel Hamra on Kosha sheet. General direction 112°. Jebel Abri is, I am told, the mountain to march on when going to Sagiet El Abd.

107.—DONGOLA to LAGIA EL KEBIR (ARBAIN ROAD).

By Captain H. Hodgson, December 16 to December 31, 1901.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Dongola — — From Dongola the route lies nearly due W. to Um Hellal; the chief landmark is Jebel Nosab. After leaving Nosab there is a bad bit of going, entailing about ½ hour’s walking, descending into valley containing the wells. Camels can trot the rest of the way.

Um Hellal Well 20 20 Is good sweet water; the water lies about 9 feet from the surface; plenty of grazing for camels. About seven families live here through the winter, and it is possible to get goat’s milk and a few eggs and dates. A ruined fort, probably 100 years old, with a well in the yard (water 12 feet from surface) is about ¾ mile away; it is called El Gab, and the whole oasis seems to take its name from it. Um Hellal is also called Gab El Tahtani.

El Sawani 3 23 El Sawani has three wells close together. A number of sunt trees give very good shade. There are more date palms and it is a better camping-ground than either Shemsi or Um Hellal. Water is good, and about 10 feet from the surface; the wells are in constant use. About eleven families live here through the winter, considerably more during the summer.

Gawit — — Water reported near surface and easily obtained; good browsing, very little shade; all dom palms burnt by dervishes.

Shemsi 10 33 Water near surface, in clay soil and plentiful; one pan sufficient for my party (twenty camels and eighteen men) taking water for 4 days. Two or three good shady clumps of trees and plenty of browsing for camels. It would be difficult to pitch tents owing to deep sand. The landmark for Shemsi is Jebel Bowarib, which is a double hill of two small peaks of black volcanic rock, standing solitary about 3 miles N.W.

Butta — — I did not visit the well, as all the guides agreed the water was brackish and bad; the landmark from Shemsi is a low round hill, thus, nearly covered with yellow sand, distinctive, as surrounding hills are peaked and black rocky hills. There are apparently about five hills surrounding the water pans, each called Jebel Butta.

Jebel Fantoria 9 42 About 12 miles N.W. from Shemsi; stands out well, and can be seen at a long distance. Charles Neufeld was captured by the dervishes close to this hill.

Jebel Abiad 56 98 Between Selem (18½ miles from Shemsi), where there are some bushes, and Lagia there is nothing for camels to feed on, and forage must be carried. I did not see the track of any living thing, either when going or on return. There are no special names for any hills except Jebel Abiad, the N. end of a chalk range, which ends in an abrupt cliff and can be seen at a long distance.

El Gir 36 134 There was reported to be water last year. We dug a well to depth of 7 feet, without result. The Arabs state the country is more dried up this year than it has been since the date of the battle of Toski.

Lagia Amran 19½ 153½ Lagia the Less, also called Lagia Amran, from the colour of the ground, lies in a plain about 8 miles long by 5 miles wide, surrounded entirely by rocky hills; there are only two entrances through encircling hills that are easy marching. Water lies within a foot of the surface, and is very plentiful. Ground consists of red clay with drifts of sand; the Arabs say there was formerly no sand, and that during last few years it is gradually covering ground, probably owing to dry seasons.

My party dug a water pan out of the clay (3½ feet deep and 12 feet circumference). It was quite full of good water, with a certain amount of clay in solution, which settled on standing, on our return 2 days later. Without this pan there was a plentiful supply of water from older diggings which the camel-men cleared of sand. There are some bushes and small trees, about ½ mile from the water, which afford feeding for camels. We also found water about ½ mile to S.W. of old water holes.

Lagia Kebir 12½ 166 Or Lagia Agar. Some five or six pans of water; good and near the surface, springing from similar soil to Lagia the Less, but not so abundant. We dug for water in three likely places, about ¼ mile to the W., without result. The wells lie in an open plain; no vegetation near, except about six to ten small trees about 3½ miles to W. giving a little feeding for camels. To the N. the plain is shut in by a steep rocky ridge of hills, and the road to Selima Wells lies across it; on reaching summit of ridge there is only a stretch of rock and stones to be seen. Arabs state it is the road to Selima, and there is no grazing. To the S., the road to Sultan Well (the place where Natron is found) lies across an open plain, and is easy going. The tracks spread considerably and extend across a width of over a mile.

An oasis, called Tura, is reported to lie 4 days’ journey in a S.W. direction, containing date trees, which is visited at date harvest time by the Bedai tribe. Sheikh Fadl El Mula is the only one of the party who had been there, and he said the water is very bad. Except for the above, the guides say they have no knowledge of any water to the W. of Lagia, and that there is no road with a direction of N. and S. lying to the W. of Lagia.

108.—DONGOLA to BIR SULTAN (ARBAIN ROAD).

By Captain H. Hodgson, February, 1903.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Dongola, or Gharbi Dongola — — After half an hour’s marching, reached buildings of former District, which stand 1 mile from mosque on E. bank by range-finder, and at an angle of 78° (magnetic). Left at 9 a.m. Going easy over hard sand. Marched parallel with river until near Kheleiwa as marked on map (Debba Sheet 45, E.), then turned W. and marched about 2 hours to well.

At Kheleiwa on river there are old ruins. A legend has it that there is an underground passage from these ruins to the well in the desert to the W.

Kheleiwa Well (1st halt) 19¾ 19¾ Kheleiwa well stands in the centre of a mound covered with broken burnt bricks; the first 6 or 8 feet from the surface is built with stone, then it is dug into solid rock; on lowering a candle to within 6 feet of the water, the sides disappear from view, and apparently there is a wide chamber at bottom of well; candle burnt freely, water 2½ feet deep, depth of well to water 96 feet.

Bir El Marghum (2nd halt) 32¼ 52 Marched at 2.30 a.m. The track is well defined, being the main road from Debba to Wad El Gab, and is easy going the whole way, direction about 330° (magnetic). About 24 miles from Kheleiwa Well ground begins to fall, and the Wadi El Gab may be said to begin.

El Marghum is the most southern well in El Gab and one of the deepest, being about 20 feet deep before reaching water, and is stone lined, water good, cool, and pleasant to drink, depth of water 3½ feet, and reported always plentiful. This well is said to be 6 hours from Khandak with an easy road. Near well are one or two good sayal trees and selem bushes, but no date palms.

Awene — — Marched at 7.30 a.m., track from El Marghum to Um Hagar, direction 330°. After 1½ miles a track branches to Shoki at direction 295°. Sheikh Mohammed Awadalla, the head of the Gunganab, one of the largest of the Kababish sub-tribes, lives at Awene. The water of this well is about 8 feet from surface and luke warm, it lies about 6 miles from Marghum; there are a number of fine sayal trees about, as well as date and dom palms; good shade.

El Agari — — This is a small well without stone facing, water cooler and pleasanter to drink than Awene, lies 1½ miles from latter. Surrounded by selem bushes.

Id Wad Medawi — — Dwelling of the former Sheikh of Gunganab, an old man, reported age 115 years, very feeble; a number of date trees near here, and track to Millan passes a number of tukls used during date harvest season.

Bir Millan 14 66 This well, about 14 miles from Marghum, is surrounded by about 20 big sayal trees giving good shade, there is also a lot of littel shrub on dunes near; it is impossible to approach well from S., owing to the shifting sand dunes; this well is practically the limit of the Wadi El Gab. Water good and plentiful.

From Millan track runs nearly due W., crossing a district called Imsinni, where a number of goats are grazed, being watered every third day at Millan.

Um Hagar (3rd Halt) 6½ 72½ A stone-lined well, at present filled with sand to within 6 feet of the mouth. Sand is damp and might easily be cleared. The Kababish do not use well for fear of the Bedaiat, who raided this well and Matassi in 1902. Good grazing for camels.

Matassi (4th halt) 9 81½ From Um Hagar track runs nearly due W., the going is indifferent; a little grazing on hadr on the way. Matassi lies in a plain some 5 or 6 square miles in extent; water is very plentiful and about 3 feet from surface; watered 70 or 80 camels from the four or five pans that were open with ease; the water is cool, pleasant to drink, and seems to have the property of cooling very rapidly after boiling. Kababish captured camels from Bedaiat here two years ago. A few wild date palms, but practically no shelter from sun or wind.

Murrat 5 86½ General direction W. Murrat, about 5 miles from Mutassi, is a low-lying plain, containing a few selem bushes, and three or four groups of date and dom palms; water easily found, but it is bitter and undrinkable; going fair; black rock predominates.

El Hofra 4½ 91 A plain encircled on E. and S. by a ridge, and on the N. by high sand dunes, some littel shrub, and a few dom palms. One dom palm which formerly had a well next it is now buried in a sand dune which has moved a ¼ of a mile in last 10 years. No shelter from N. wind or sun.

Sixth halt 23½ 114½ General direction 230° to 240°, going easy; about 12th or 13th mile from El Hofra found a few patches of grass, indicating rain here last season. About 17th mile going becomes more difficult and ground rises. At 20th mile a high conical (?) is reached, from which plateau of Jebel Abiad is to be seen; erected a pile of stones at this point. Ground then slopes down, and track lies through a depression until at 23rd mile a plain is reached, extending 17 miles to bluff of Jebel Abiad. Here there is some hadr grass, affording some grazing. The plain is scattered with lava-like stones.

Seventh halt (on plateau of J. Abiad) 32½ 147 General direction due W. to a ravine in Jebel Abiad. The J. Abiad is a steep bluff of gypsum, running from N. to S.; it is the same range as is skirted by track from Dongola to Lagia Wells. After ascending bluff direction is W.S.W., across a plateau with a very gentle slope down towards the W.; surface is shingle scattered with agates and flints. Could obtain no shelter to halt near.

Tundubi (8th halt) 24 171 About 1 hour after leaving last halt passed a rocky patch of ground, where the track is well defined, the only place where old lines of tracks are seen, being about 18 miles from bluff. About 28 miles from bluff crossed a valley containing gottab grass and some other grazing. At Tundubi a well had been opened recently, and my party, after deepening it to nearly 30 feet, were able to water about six camels and fill up skins. Latest report is that the well has been filled in maliciously. There is abundance of gottab, hadr, and akol, giving good grazing, also some fine tundub trees and selem bushes. A quantity of senna also grows here.

Ninth halt 27 198 General direction W.S.W. (at 250° by P. compass), very easy undulating country.

Tenth halt 12½ 210½ About 31 miles from Tundubi met a caravan, on descending into a valley, along which the track lies. Easy going. No shelter. Saw ostrich tracks.

Eleventh halt 28½ 239 Easy going all day; general direction W. Jebel Raya is seen some 10 miles away to the S.; it lies on the road from El Ain to Bir Sultan. Found a good place to halt, with a few tundub trees and some hadr scrub.

Twelfth halt 23 262 Same general direction W. After 3 miles descended into a deep sandy khor, containing some hadr scrub (difficult going), marched along it for an hour in direction 250°; then crossed a rocky ridge for 10 miles, then an open plain of shingle for 5 miles, and down another khor of deep sand with clumps of hadr scrub in it, direction 260°. Then direction changed constantly to avoid conical hills. Halted on rocky ground.

Milani — — Two hours’ easy marching and then 2 hours across an exposed plateau of rocky ground, before reaching a steep descent down to Milani; a thick clump of selem trees in the Natron valley. At Milani water is apparently very plentiful, the sand between the dunes being wet and brown. Did not try to obtain water, as, though drinkable, it is reported not to be so good as the water found at Sultan, 3 miles away.

Bir Sultan — — Sultan, a low-lying area of about a ¼ mile square of uneven ground covered with tussocks of halfa grass. Water easily obtained and plentiful. I found two or three pans open, at which animals can get to the water themselves. There are five or six date palms, also grasses such as tamam, halfa, taklis, but no shrubs, at Sultan. It lies nearly due S. of J. Kashaf.

Natron diggings (13th halt) 21 283 The best natron bed lies about 2 miles away from the water at Sultan by the shortest and most direct route to the river, it is probably not more than 250 miles instead of the 283 I travelled. The diggings have the appearance of a sandy salt pan, from which sea water has run off, the sand being encrusted with a white salt-like substance. To obtain the natron the upper surface of sand, about 2 inches to 4 inches, is cleared away, until the natron, a substance resembling rock salt, is reached. The top part is usually bad, being half sand; then there is a seam of ½ inch to 2 inches of good natron, again below a little bad natron, and below all sand again. Sometimes all the natron is spoilt by being mixed with sand. The whole place is scattered with scores and scores of oryx and addax horns, which seem to have been the tool, since time immemorial, with which to dig out the natron.

Jebel Kashaf — — Jebel Kashaf lies 2,400 yards from the natron diggings, and E. of them at direction 133°; it is a high conical hill centrally situated in the northern part of the valley, and from its summit the whole valley and various halting places are overlooked. To the S. and S.W. is a level plain, reaching to the horizon without landmarks.

The Arbain road runs S.S.W. apparently, to a place called Domi (1 day), where there are a few dom palms, and then from there branches to Meidob and to Zaghawa, which latter is reported to be 5 or 6 days from Natron valley in a S.W. direction.

109.—DEBBA to EL OBEID.

(Route during Rains).

Compiled from Various Sources, April, 1903.

(Distances only roughly approximate).

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Debba — —

Um Belila 35 35 Hole in sandy bed of wadi, about 12 feet down to water’s edge. Excellent water and any quantity, amount depends on digging.

El Amra 43 78 Water good and plentiful, obtainable by digging in sandy bed of wadi. From here during the rains travellers go to Hobagi, where there is a hofra which contains no water in the dry season.

Hobagi 67 145

Haraza 60 205 Water good and plentiful from a spring at foot of jebel. From thence viâ Kajmar to El Obeid. Vide also route 81, Chap. VIII.

N.B.—During the dry season, merchants do not travel viâ Hobagi, as the hofra there is then dry. A considerable détour is made from El Amra to Elai, thence to Habisa, where there many wells, and thence to Bagbag Wells and Kajmar.

110.—DEBBA to OMDURMAN.

Major H. V. Ravenscroft, January, 1900.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Debba Camp — — On leaving camp, a southerly direction is taken over sandy ground, leaving Wadi El Melh on right.

J. Khattab 7 7 Hill on either side of track.

J. Kufri 3 10 Two wells on track, one in use, recently repaired by Government.

J. Birget El Merafib 11 21 Water about 55 feet from surface; no rope, so could not taste it. Six miles from left of track.

Open desert.

Kaser El Fokani 4 25 One old well called Atesh, closed for a long time. Well-marked track.

Khor Kaser 1 26 On right of track, 400 yards wide. After this the road runs in khor for 10 miles, as far as El Magari.

El Magari 10⅔ 36⅔

J. Nesub El Arda 8 44⅔ Range of hills 1½ miles from right of track. After this the hills gradually close in to right of track.

3⅓ 48 Track passes over low hills. Nesub El Arda 80 feet high. After ½ mile another small detached hill, similar to El Magari, and low hills on right, 400 yards from track.

Wadi Maleiga 2 50 Good grazing for camels.

Abu Sayal 4 54 Good water in small khor about 600 yards from right of track can be got for a distance of 150 yards by digging 8 feet to 10 feet from surface. One small green tree and usher bushes mark spot. Water at present plentiful, but guides state that in dry season supply becomes small. No people here.

J. Nesub El Gelud 1⅓ 55⅓ Range of hills 1,500 yards on right of track. No more hills on left.

Wadi Gelud 1⅔ 57 One well reported under hill, supply small in dry season, about 3 miles from right of track. Khor 500 yards wide. Good grazing for camels.

Ereishat 5⅔ 62⅔ Dry grass and a few bushes. In Gordon’s time there was a large shelter here for travellers and merchants.

J. Nesub El Shabra — — Three miles from right of track. A continuous range of low hills on right. Open country on left.

J. Abu Sideir 2⅔ 65⅓ Two miles from right of track. From here a track to El Boreiga winds off ½ mile right.

Khor Abu Sideir 3⅓ 66⅔ 1,000 yards wide; good grazing for camels. Range of black hills 3 miles from right of track. After 1⅓ miles track crosses another piece of Khor Abu Sideir and two other small khors, the hills on right being then 6 miles off; on left flat open country.

Wadi Umanagil 6 72⅔ After this low range of hills 600 yards from and parallel to track, a few flocks grazing here in Khor Boreiga. Good water in khor to be obtained for a distance by digging 10 feet from surface.

Abu Heglig (water) 2 74⅔

Khor 600 yards to 800 yards wide; good grazing; six wells in use here.

2 76⅔ Track passes through gap in spur running from two hills called Um Kheirit and El Wabri, 2 miles from right of track. J. El Minget (perhaps 30 miles distant) visible on left; salt is obtained from this mountain.

Khor Wabri 1⅓ 80 Hills 4 miles from right of track. Water in khor like a canal, 4 yards broad, and 4 feet 6 inches in depth. After this open desert; rain marks; no track.

2⅓ 82⅓ Small low sand hills on either side of the track. Going a little heavy for first time since leaving Debba.

Wadi Abu Hashim 5 87⅓ Broad khor; some grass and bushes; good going; open desert on both sides.

Dondib El Gedi 1 88⅓ Old halting place, a few bushes on either side of track. After heavy rains Arabs used to sow dura here.

Wadi Drais 1⅔ 90 Low hill 1½ miles long, 1 mile from left of track; well reported by guide under hill, spot marked by big tree; well not in use. This well is in Wadi Abu Usher.

Wadi Abu Usher 2⅓ 92⅓ Broad khor, dry grass and usher bushes. J. Abu Usher 1 mile from right of track; long black hill.

Khor Derail 2⅔ 95 Small khor; black rocks and hills on right of track.

Abu Inderab 2 97 One well in khor in a sort of cave 15 feet deep; water plentiful, very clear and sweet. Men have to descend into the cave to get water, which is 2½, feet deep; guide reports water plentiful here at all times of the year. Sides of cave hard sandy clay; diameter of cave at surface 6 feet, opening out as you go down. Khor 120 yards wide. Usher bushes and some grazing for camels. Range of black hills 200 feet to 300 feet high, 2½ miles from track on right and remaining parallel with it.

Khor El Kelab (Warrania) 3½ 100½ Broad khor, a lot of usher bushes, nearly all dying. J. El Kelab 3 miles from right of track, with low range of black hills between track and it. Track in khor for 1⅓ miles.

Khor El Kelab (Godamia) 1⅓ 101⅚ Joins Khor El Kelab (Warrania), and the two khors then run east on left of track. Jebel El Kelab a continuous range 4 miles long, and 2 miles to 3 miles from right of track.

3⅔ 105½ Beginning of J. Gumr 1 mile from right of track. Going sandy and good; tufts of dry grass.

Wadi Gumr (water) 2⅔ 108⅙ To east of track, in khor, good place for sowing dura after heavy rains. Excellent grazing about 3 miles west of track; water very near surface and can always be got in khor by digging. A few Arabs here. Range of hills, J. Gumr, 1½ miles from right of track.

J. Maagil Gumr 3 111⅙ One thousand yards from left of track, with low spur running down to track, and another running parallel with road for 1½ miles.

1 112⅙ Low hill on right, close to track, ½ mile long.

⅔ 112⅚ Continuous range of hills on right 3 miles off. A gap opposite here, 300 yards long, called Feg Gumr. J. Wad El Melih begins after Feg Wadi Gumr. Wadi Gumr runs under range parallel to it.

Um Aragib 1⅓ 114⅙ On left of track; bushes, black stones; good going on ten to twelve camel tracks. Hill on right 5 miles distant.

J. Maagil Wad El Melih 3⅓ 117½ Small hill 300 yards from right of track, with prominent point 60 feet high.

Khor Wad El Melih 1½ 119 Many dead usher bushes.

1½ 120½ On right, range of hills, after being 10 miles distant, comes in to within ½ mile of track, and from here runs parallel with it.

2 122½ End of J. Wad El Melih 1½ miles from right of track, after this J. El Shab.

Khor El Shab 3⅓ 125⅚ El Shab 2½ miles from right of track; good going.

Khor Abu Usher 3 128⅚ Small khor; dying osier bushes, some grazing. Hills on right, 6 miles off. Khor on right winding from S. crosses track here.

Well on right of road, no water, only in rainy season.

Khor Abuera 4 132⅚ Running from J. Abuera about 10 miles on right, khor finishes here, none on left of track. Excellent going, well marked track, rain marks, flat open country, nothing in sight.

Khor Bohat 7⅔ 140½ Small khor, some bushes. J. Bohat 10 miles on right.

Gedemtina 3 143½ Old halting place. A few bushes, hard, sandy.

4⅓ 147⅚ Wadi Gabra on left, about 3 miles off; this khor stretches to Korti.

Wadi Medeisis 1⅔ 149½ From hill on right joins Wadi Gabra, 2 miles from left of track.

Gabra Wells 6⅓ 155⅚ Four wells, water always plentiful, very sweet and clear, 55 feet from surface; many flocks and some cows water here; wells in open space in middle of thick trees, with zeriba for flocks.

Before arriving at wells track for 4 miles through trees, mostly sunt, and nearly all dying; plenty of dry wood. Dervish zeriba S. of wells with Yunis’ house in centre and tukls of the Jehadia round it.

2 157⅚ Up to here marked track, after this only visible at places owing to sand covering footprints on hard ground; uneven, but going good; bushes and grass everywhere; good grazing; gazelle.

Gerguf 3 160⅚

Goz Abu Dluet 5⅓ 166⅙ Excellent dry grass and bushes for camel grazing.

El Hanakat 4 170⅙ Low spur on either side of track, which is more distinct here and in a sort of khor 80 yards wide full of green bushes.

El Shegeig 2⅔ 172⅚ About 1 mile on left of track; thick trees.

Id Anal 4⅓ 177⅙ Sandy; trees and grass; ground slightly undulating.

Khor Id Anal 3⅓ 180½ Very narrow khor; rain marks; sandy going.

Gala Fashfos 8⅓ 188⅚ Main peak of Omdurman mountain in sight (Abu Leidat).

2 190⅚ Small round hill (El Gesi) on left, 3 miles off.

El Hafir 1⅓ 192⅙ J. El Magrun on left.

El Auti 7⅓ 199½ J. Abu Leidat on left.

El Adara 1 200½

1 201½ Track goes between Merkhiat Hills.

J. Nesub El Merkhiat 1 202½ One isolated hill 1,000 yards from left of track.

Merkhiat Hills on right.

1⅓ 204⅙ Track passes through gap in Nesub El Merkhiat, one hill on left close to path, on right hills come down close to track.

2⅔ 206⅚ Rifle ranges 1,200 yards on right. Going sandy, heavier than during any other part of route.

Omdurman 1⅔ 208½ Beginning of houses.

Note.—There are only four places on this road which can be relied on for water at all times of the year, viz., Wabri, Abu Inderab, Gumr, and Gabra.

111.—DEBBA to OMDURMAN, viâ ELAI.

Compiled from Various Sources, April, 1903.

N.B. This is not the direct road, but water is obtainable more frequently. Distances only roughly approximate.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Debba — —

Um Belila 35 35 Water plentiful. Three wells, 12 feet deep (James, 1902).

El Amri 43 78 Water plentiful (native information only).

Abu Tawagia 25 103 One well, 8 feet deep; good water (James, 1902).

Elai 18 121 Water, scarce in dry season, from two stone-lined wells (Currie, 1903). From here, shortest way is to Gambar, but road stony and bad, and merchants generally go to Gumr (25 miles). Vide Route 110.

Gambar 37 158 Wells, water (?) (native information only).

Gabra 24 182 Water plentiful, from many wells.

Omdurman 56 238

112.—AMBUGOL or KORTI to METEMMA.

From Reports by Mr. Fowler, 1871, and numerous Officers of the Nile Expedition, 1885.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Ambugol — — Possesses abundant indications, in the remains of an ancient masonry pier and in the considerable ruins in the town, of having been formerly of much greater importance. It was selected as the point at which the projected Sudan railway should leave the Nile, and strike across the Bayuda Desert.

Korti — 4 From Ambugol the caravan route follows the bank of the river for a few miles to Korti, and then branches off into the desert in a westerly direction.

After about 25 miles, it strikes the Wadi Abu Gir and continues along it for many miles. Mr. Fowler states that the water is to be procured by sinking wells along the course of this wadi, and that its bed for its entire length is filled with all the vegetation of the Bayuda Desert—shrubs and grass, which are invaluable both as fuel, and as food for flocks.

Water reservoirs, in tins, were established in March, 1885, at hills 12 and 30 miles respectively from Korti, as the wells at Hambok and Haweiyat showed signs of giving out.

Hambok 47 51 Wells.

El Haweiyat 8 59 Wells. Yielding in February, 1885, 310 gallons daily, but decreasing. Three wells, 6 feet deep, open in February, 1897.

Near the mountain of El Mesalima, situated a little to the right of the track, there is an abundance of small timber.

In December, 1871, and January, 1872, water in pools was found in many of the ravines issuing from the Jebel Gilif range. The plain S. of this range has a good deal of scrub upon it, and is said to be flooded occasionaly during the rains to a depth of 3 feet to 4 feet.

Miljik — — Five miles E.S.E. of Haweiyat and 1½ miles from the track; reported to have a good supply of rainwater like Jakdul. Found to be dry, February, 1885.

Abu Alik — — Four miles E.S.E. of Miljik. Good supply of water in wells 6 to 8 feet deep. Too far from track for practical use.

Zobrik El Kelb (Miglig) 14 73 A plainly defined hill of curious shape. One mile N. of it are the wells of Miglig (Megaga, or El Kelb). Natural reservoirs of rainwater. These are two pools situated up a narrow ravine. The lowest, containing 5,000 gallons, is fit for camels and horses. The upper pool, 100 yards beyond, contains over 100,000 gallons of pure clear water. Tanks full, February, 1897, but water unclean; tastes stagnant.

These estimates (14th February, 1885, by Colonel Todd, R.E.) were taken when the upper pool was 4 feet, and the lower 7 feet, below its high water level.

Abu Halfa 17 90 The wells of Abu Halfa, situated about 3½ miles N. of the camel track, consist of holes made in dry river bed. They vary in depth from 5 feet to 10 feet, and in diameter from 3 feet to 4 feet.

Some distance further up the Wadi Abu Halfa there is a large pool surrounded by dom palms, which is said never to be dry. Close by this pool is a conical black hill, surmounted by a natural breastwork; excellent landmark.

Water is to be found nearly everywhere in this wadi, a foot or two below the surface, and is visible in several places at the foot of rocks.

To a breadth of ½ mile on each side of river bed, acacia trees abound, and there is beautiful tabas grass; this, with the trees, forms the principal food of the flocks and herds—goats, camels, and cattle—belonging to the desert Arabs.

For about 6 miles after leaving Abu Halfa, the ground falls slightly, about half this distance being over a sandy desert, with sandstone rocks cropping up all round.

The ground then rises gently, and enters country wooded thickly with acacia, and covered with coarse grass.

On the W. stand isolated rocks of sandstone, and on the E. is seen the extension of the range from Abu Halfa, which vanishes with an abrupt turn eastward.

Jakdul 10 100 The wells of Jakdul, situated in one of the torrent gorges of Jebel Gilif, about 3 miles from the camel track, consist of three large water-worn cavities, each at a different level, and shut in by precipitous cliffs. The lowest of the pools forms an irregular oval in plan, about 120 feet long by 60 feet broad, and for three-fourths of its length it is enclosed between perpendicular rocks. Whether any labour has been expended in making these excavations it is impossible to say, but it is evident that the cavities have been mainly produced by the torrents rushing through a small passage about 8 feet above the highest water level, and thus wearing away the softer portions of the rock to a considerable depth below the ground level.

These reservoirs contain always sufficient water for two years’ supply of the existing demand, and are never dry. The lowest well is daily visited by large numbers of animals, and the water is consequently unfit for any other use. The second pool, about 10 feet above the first one, lies in the bottom of an almost inaccessible channel, the sides of the gorge rising in some places nearly perpendicularly to a height of about 80 feet from the water.

The approximate length of this pool is 200 feet, and its width is 40 feet. The quality of the water is excellent, and from this and the upper pool the skins used to carry drinking water are filled, a cord and bucket being employed to raise the water. The third pool is about 5 feet higher than the second, and lies in a direction at right angles to it. Its size is about 80 feet by 15 feet.

A very tortuous and contracted channel, about 20 feet long, and 3 feet wide at the bottom, forms the connection between the second and the lowest pool. Above this the gorge widens out, and by the construction of a dam, a fine reservoir and ample water supply might be obtained.

These wells, forming the chief water supply on the Korti—Metemma route, were found ample for the requirements of the Desert Column, 2nd January to 15th March, 1885, but would not have lasted another fortnight.

About 1 mile up the ravine, above the wells, are two more reservoirs, each holding (January, 1885) about the same as the middle Jakdul reservoir. They were not used in 1885. Numerous gazelle.

After leaving Jakdul, the country for a few miles is entirely devoid of vegetation, but further on it is for the most part covered with a sandy deposit, producing tabas grass and acacia.

El Fura — — Eight or nine miles east of the wells of Jakdul, and some miles from the caravan track, are the wells El Fura. They consist of a number of holes, 3 or 4 feet in diameter, and a few feet in depth, and are sunk in the usual manner in the channel of a large river bed—Fura. They are rudely excavated and are unlined, their falling in, therefore, is a matter of frequent occurrence, and these accidents are repaired by the excavation of new holes. A basin with puddled sides is formed on the surface for the use of animals. During the rainy season the holes are rapidly filled with deposit, and they have then to be re-made. On the other hand, in the dry season, the wells are gradually deepened, as the water level falls through use, absorption, and evaporation. Cattle, sheep, and goats are driven here in large numbers. It is the custom during the hot season to water the sheep and goats once every four days, and the cattle every other day. In the winter season they are driven to the wells every sixth and fourth day respectively. The water at these wells is good, and the supply generally plentiful. Only once within the 30 years preceding 1872[34] had they dried up, and then only after a continued drought of two years.

These wells, being off the track, were not used by the Desert Column, 1885.

Before reaching Jebel-el-Nus, a tract where much drift sand prevails is reached. This drift sand usually travels from the E. to the W., under the influence of the prevailing winds, in the form of low mounds, in plan somewhat of a crescent form, with the convex side turned towards the wind. This slope of the mound is about 6 in 1, up which the sand constantly travels to the summit of the ridge, and then rolls down the sheltered side where the slope is 1 in 1, every sandhill having in windy weather a slow but constantly progressive action. As all traces of the beaten camel tracks are often obliterated, the Jebel-el-Nus is an invaluable landmark. Bad, soft going here.

Jebel el-Nus 22 122 It is a remarkable conical rock of sandstone, and stands out prominently in the landscape.

After this a valley is approached in which the drift sand becomes heavier, but where trees and grass grow abundantly.

On either side, however, the aspect of the ground is most forbidding, the rocks surrounding the valley, seen from an elevation, having the appearance of a troubled stormy sea.

The drift sand continues in the valley only for a distance of about 3 miles.

Jebel-el-Sergein 10 132 After crossing a grass-grown wady that partially drains a range of hills on the W., Jebel-el-Sergein (or Saddle Hill), another remarkable desert beacon, is passed.

The valley round Jebel-el-Sergein is fertile and contains much grass, and many groups of trees. As it affords good pasturage for camels, it is always selected for a resting-place when the traveller cannot reach the nearest wells.

Beyond this another wadi is crossed. It is about a mile in width, and well covered with trees and grass.

For the next 12 or 13 miles the route runs through the district of Ummat Handal.

The first part of it is covered with much broken sandstone and loose rock. This is followed for 3 or 4 miles by a stretch of sand, which further on gives way to a more agreeable country in which grass and trees are plentiful.

15½ 147½ The scene of the battle (17th January ’85) was 2½ miles further on, ½ mile S. of the usual track.

Abu Klea (Abu Tleh) 4½ 152 Some more wadis and low intervening hills are crossed till the wells of Abu Tleh are reached.

These wells are sunk in the same manner as those of El Fura, but, as the soil does not stand so well, they are constantly falling in, and have, therefore, very frequently to be reconstructed. The water is excellent for drinking, and the supply is good, having failed only once within the 30 years preceding 1872. These wells are directly on the camel track to Metemma and are constantly visited by caravans. They also form a favourite watering place for the flocks and herds of the Arabs.

The route now enters a valley with grass and trees, and after following it for some distance across a plain covered with sand and black boulders, succeeded by a more favourable district, capable of cultivation during the rains.

Shebakat 16 168 A little further on occurs the well of Shebakat.

This well is also directly on the caravan route. It is 12 feet in diameter and 50 feet in depth, excavated through the sandstone rock to a bed of sandy shingle. It is situate on an extensive plain amongst thick scrub and coarse grass, and as there is no water channel in its vicinity, the supply must be obtained from low-level springs. The water being brackish, it is unfit for drinking purposes, and it is thick and clouded. The supply is abundant and never failing in the driest seasons. Small puddled basins are formed, as at other wells, on the ground surface for the use of cattle.

An acacia forest, traversed by the Desert Column on the night of 18th January, 1885, lies a mile or two S. of the ordinary track hereabouts.

The track to Metemma now leads over light scrub and tussocky gravel; that to Abu Khru or Khrug and Gubat is similar, but with less scrub.

The caravan route ends at Metemma, which is situated near the W. bank of the Nile, and is separated from the desert by a low line of hills.

Metemma 8 176 A considerable tract of fertile land, about 1,200 yards broad, dividing the town from the river, is occasionally inundated during the season of the floods.

Metemma contained (1885) about 3,000 inhabitants, and was in 1897 and 1898 the headquarters of Mahmud and his men. It now (1903) contains 2,500 inhabitants who are chiefly women.

This town in 1885 consisted of mud houses with straw roofs, with one or two earthworks W. of the town; two or more mosques. Bombardment with small 7-lb. guns produced no effect on the houses, the shells passing through without damaging them. Setting roofs on fire of no use, as it did not destroy the houses. It is now (1903) only just beginning to recover from the effects of Mahmud’s occupation and massacre.

Summary of Water Supply.

Ambukol — — On the Nile.

Korti — — On the Nile.

Hambok 47 — Wells.

El Haweiyat 8 59 Wells.

Magaga 14 73 Two good reservoirs 1 mile N. of track.

Abu Halfa 17 90 Wells, 3½ miles from the camel track.

Jakdul 10 100 Three miles N. of the caravan track. Abundant supply of water good for a large force.

El Fura — — About 8 or 9 miles from Jakdul, and some miles from the caravan track. Wells—water good, supply generally plentiful.

Abu Tleh 52 152 Wells—water excellent, supply fairly plentiful.

Shebakat 16 168 One large well. Supply abundant and never failing, but the water is brackish, and only fit for animals.

Metemma 8 176 On the Nile.

Shendi — — On the Nile 3 miles below Metemma.

113.—KORTI to BAYUDA and SEDEIRI.

By Captain V. Bunbury and Viscount Sudley, March, 1897.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Korti — — Road indifferent going for infantry; suitable for cavalry.

Um Tub 35 35 One permanent well here, 10 feet in diameter, sides faced with stone. Water, 125 feet below ground level, good; constant supply. Fourteen hods at the well’s mouth in good order. Country open, good grazing. Well in the middle of a gravelly rise, easy for defence. It took 5 hours to water 115 camels.

For the first 3½ hours (10 miles) after leaving this the route is very bad going, especially for cavalry, and lies along a broken wadi and many stony bits. Ground on either side rocky, hilly; efficient scouting impossible. After the broken ground the route lies over open country, and is good for cavalry.

Um Sunt Bayuda 30 65 The wells here are in a khor which runs from S. to N. at this point. Only two wells were open to any depth (about 10 feet), but were quite dry. Dug in both of them, but had to desist in one after a short time, as it was too narrow for a man to work in. In the other, reached water after 3 hours’ digging at a depth of 23 feet below the ground level. Water flowed freely, and was good.

The wells are commanded from E. and W. by high ground immediately above the river bed, and from N. and S. by hills from 100 to 150 feet high at a distance of 200 yards, and from N.E. by a range of hills about 800 feet high at a distance of 1 mile.

Ten days later this well was revisited and found to be dry.

The next 4 miles are through the Wadi Bayuda defile. Road very bad here; flanked on either side by rocky hills, which appear to run far inland on both flanks. All scouting on flanks impossible. After heavy rains a flood of 9 feet deep is said to pour northwards through this defile.

Two miles further on lies

Monasieb 6 71 or Um-el-Nasaib. Two wide-mouthed wells; water in one of them 8 feet down. A few hods. Trees and bushes growing close around; unsuitable place for watering beasts, and unfavourable for defence.

Road good to

Um Sedeiri 3 74 Many wells here, mostly unused. Three wide-mouthed wells and one narrow well, newly opened in the sand, had water in them about 6 feet below ground level. The water in the former was unfit for human consumption, but the camels drank it freely; the water in the latter was good. After clearing away some of the mud and slime from the large wells water came fairly freely. Also obtained a constant supply of very good clear water by digging 2 feet in one of the unused wells; the hods at these wells are not numerous, and require repairing. I consider that any amount of water can be obtained here by a little digging; it is of good quality, and appears to be about 6 feet below ground level. I was informed that there is water here all the year round.

A great quantity of long coarse grass grows round the wells and on each side of the river bed. The wells are commanded from N. to S.E. by high ground from 60 to 30 feet high, at distances of 500 to 150 yards from N. to S.E.; also from W. by ground about 30 feet high, at distances from 80 to 100 yards from S. to N. Some large trees and the long grass above-mentioned would afford cover near to the wells.

The road back to Um Tub (35 miles) is good and open, with the exception of the 10 miles mentioned above.

The direct road Um Sedeiri to Korti (70 miles) is good going, but no water.

114.—MEROWE to JAKDUL.

By Major Hon. M. G. Talbot, August, 1898.

General Remarks.Except for patches of sand, heavy for infantry and horses, the road is good throughout, with the exception of the Magaga defile. Though the road frequently changes from one bank to the other of the Khor Abu Dom, up whose valley it generally proceeds till it crosses the watershed into the Magaga basin, none of the crossings present any difficulty; but there is always the danger in the summer months of a spate caused by rain near the head.

Firewood and camel grazing are plentiful throughout, but there is practically no grass for horses.

As far as, and including, Kalas the road may be considered as having been traversed at the driest time of year.

N.B.—Party consisted of 1 Squadron (Cavalry), and 1 Company (Camel Corps).

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Merowe — —

Ghazali 8¼ 8¼ General direction from Merowe, a little S. of E. No definite track. Troops can take shortest line across open plain, dotted with bushes and tabas grass. At 4 miles the Khor Abu Dom, whose very sandy bed is 100 yards wide, is struck, and the right bank ascended. At 6 miles the low rocky hills close in to form a short, and very easy, defile; the hills soon recede and allow the valley to expand, and at 7¼ miles the first well is reached, at the foot of a low hill on right bank. A mile further on is another well from which a small garden is supplied. There are one or two water holes in between. Water good, plentiful, and near surface. No good camping ground.

Hannek (Upper) 22¼ 30½ Road keeps up right bank of khor; Geren hill at 3¾ miles marks site of well. At 5¾ miles road crosses to left bank at Um Sayala wells, and after 4 miles of good going through thickish scrub, Beida is reached. Both Geren and Um Sayala were said to have water, but were not visited. Beida well is about 20 feet deep. After a few minutes clearing out, it supplied a drink for all the horses. Good shade. At 10¼ miles the road leaves the main khor, and keeps up an affluent called Ab Jowalis, which it leaves by a very low and easy saddle at 14¼ miles, and after crossing the heads of many minor tributaries eventually returns to, and crosses the main bed of, the Khor Abu Dom at 20¼ miles. At ¼ to ½ mile below the point of crossing is the Lower Hannek well, which was not visited. After crossing, the track keeps up the right bank to Hannek (Upper) well at 22¼ miles. The two wells here required clearing out, and then gave sufficient water of rather indifferent quality. Plenty of shade.

Kalas 32½ 63 The khor is crossed at ½ mile, and road then passes over an open plain, affording good going, until it strikes the khor again at Um Jueiri well at 8½ miles. After this a few stony bits, and one or two stony ridges are crossed, with which exceptions road is excellent to well at El Tawila at 14½ miles. Water good; and well, after being a little cleaned out, afforded a drink for all horses, and some of the camels. Road continues good, and follows left bank of khor, except for a few hundred yards at 18½ miles, when the hills close in and drive it into the bed of the khor, under J. Lebarug. At 23½ miles it crosses a considerable branch of the khor, and at 26½ it crosses a low rocky saddle, and returns to basin of main khor Abu Dom, in bed of which at 28 miles is situated the well of El Tueina, lying about ⅓ mile to left of direct road to Kalas. From here to Kalas, 32½ miles, the road keeps crossing bed of khor, 60 to 100 yards wide, and the narrow basin is enclosed by low irregular-shaped hills. Two lots of wells at Kalas, about 300 yards apart. Water bad. Even after cleaning out, the horses and camels were watered with great difficulty. Little shade.

Abu Halfa 25½ 88½ Road keeps up left bank over some stony ground, and crosses khor at 2 miles and recrosses at 2½. After 5 more miles of good going on the whole, the very low and easy saddle forming the watershed is reached at 7½ miles, and on crossing it the basin of the Wadi Magaga is entered. The road for the next 7 miles is down a gradually widening, but always stony, defile, along which it is preferable to lead horses almost the whole way. The path is mostly down the actual watercourse, which has all the characteristics of a mountain torrent. A dry water hole was passed at 10 miles, and some pools of water at 13½ miles. At 14½ miles the road emerges from the stony bed and crosses a low saddle at 15 miles, from which the first view of the plains to the S. is obtained. At 15¾, another low saddle is crossed, and the track then descends to the plain and keeps along the feet of the hills, crossing patches of stony ground alternating with flat khors, covered with scattered bush and thick tabas grass, to 25 miles, when it turns to left up Wadi Abu Halfa, and strikes the wells at 26 miles, close to the junction of a tributary with the main khor, and at the foot of a low—but conspicuous—rocky hillock.[35] There is a large pool, said never to get dry, about ½ mile up the khor. Good camping ground. Some shade. Water plentiful.

Jakdul 10½ 99 Road crosses khor at once, and keeps straight along foot of higher hills, leaving some very low ones on its right. At 8 miles track turns to left up Wadi Jakdul, and reaches lower pool at 10½ miles.

The former descriptions of Jakdul still hold good, so it need not be described here. Vide Route 112.

115.—MEROWE to BERBER, viâ SANI.

By Captain N. M. Smyth (1897) and Colonel Friend (1902).

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Merowe — —

El Dughayet 14 14 On left bank of Nile. Shaigia Arabs. Mud huts, and palms to shade one battalion in vicinity. Thorn bush and grazing for 1,000 camels.

A well-defined but narrow track, passable only in single or double file, leads across some rocky hills about 150 feet above level of High Nile, till at 6 miles it strikes the Khor Shingawi, which is broad and sandy, with a few scattered bushes.

Jebel El Dega 8 22 Is passed on the right of the road. From 6 to 8 miles the ground is firm, and admits usually of marching camels four abreast.

El Nus 8 30 El Nus is merely the name of a locality where the track crosses a spur from the north, whence Jebel El Ghanam is visible 10 miles north and Jebel El Khullal 5 miles south; no shade. Drainage, after Jebel El Dega crossed, flows south-west.

The track generally continues good, mostly over hard shingle or firm sand. In many places several parallel tracks.

Jebel El Mgarfur (?) 10 40 A rounded hill about 100 feet high, is passed on the right. This is the first place where shade is to be got from thorn bushes. There is enough for about one battalion if scattered over about 2 square miles.

Um Geren 5 45 The well-known Arab camping ground, Um Geren, marked by a tall tree, is left ½ mile to the north of track in the wooded Khor Abu Siba.

El Kua 1½ 46½ The well El Kua is passed ½ mile north of track in the Khor Abu Siba. This well is 25 feet deep, and, though liable to run dry in winter, generally contains about 3 feet of water from July to September.

El Bar 1½ 48 A similar well, El Bar, is passed ½ mile to the north of track in the Khor Abu Siba, which all along here is well wooded with dom palms, sunt trees and bushes for camel grazing. Both these wells belong to the Hawawir sub-tribe of Monasir.

Sani 2 50 Sani is a pool of rain-water with rock, sand, and shingle banks. It is said that the water is perennial, and if drunk dry, it refills to three-quarters former depth; more than 6 feet deep in centre. Water good; contained at time of visit about 26,000 gallons. Thirty animals can drink at once; if buckets are used 60 could drink. Sagias and cultivation.

Abu Koreit 14 64 Many old wells, but disused, and water supply very small.

Kurbai 62 126 Water, but supply bad.

Abu Haraz 19 145 Well; good water.

Berber 4 149

116.—SANI to EL ZUMA (NILE) viâ JURA.

By Captain St. G. Henry, August, 1897.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Sani Pool — — Going good; in some places over rough, tussocky grass, but generally over firm sand. Features of country very indefinite, and drainage lines hard to trace; there is, however, no doubt that they all cross the track from right to left.

J. Sergein 7 7 From 6 to 8 miles the track crosses some rocky undulating ground. At 7 miles, J Sergein, or Sargit, is left to the S., and the road passes N. of J. El Hueish, an isolated rocky hill with a patch of yellow sand halfway up.

J. El Hueish 4 11

21 32 A branch of Wadi Argu or Argubi is now crossed. From this point J. Gormuli lay due N., and J. Ibnali (the mass of hills S. of Jura Well), lay due E.

15 47 At 3 miles from Jura the track joins, in a branch of the Wadi Argu, the track from Kirbekan. At this point the direction of Sani bears 250 degrees magnetic (Tudway). For the next 3 miles the track winds in a south-easterly direction through low undulating hills, between the mass of the Jura range (J. Ibnali) on the right, and some sharp-pointed hills of considerable height on the left.

Jura 3 50 The well at Jura is situated in a small rocky plain surrounded by hills N. of eastern end of J. Ibnali. It has been cut out of the solid rock and is about 2 feet in diameter. The water was about 6 feet below the surface; it is good and sweet, and tastes like rain-water. One hundred camels were watered from it without emptying it. It is said never to dry up. There were formerly six other wells, equally good, close by, of which the marks are still visible. The natives say they only want cleaning out. Water can sometimes be got by scraping at the mouth of the khor about 110 yards distant. Near the well stands the ruin of a house, built at the time it was proposed to take the telegraph line to Berber by this route.

It is a bad and confined camping ground, with very little shade, though there are a few dom palms and thorn bushes along the khor. Heat and dust very great.

A flood is said to come down the khor once almost every year. The drainage appears to go to Wadi Argu.

El Zuma 35 85 On left bank Nile, opposite El Shereik. Government Rest House and ferry. There is also Rest House at Shereik.

117.—JURA to KIRBEKAN (about 1 mile S.W. of Site of Battle).

By Major Tudway and Captain St. G. Henry, August, 1897.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Jura — —

Wadi Argu 3 3 For the first 3 miles the track winds through low hills between main mass (J. Ibnali) and the two pointed hills to N. At 3 miles it strikes a branch of the Wadi Argu or Argubi. Here the Sani track branches off at a bearing of 250 degrees magnetic, and the general direction of Kirbekan is 305 degrees magnetic. The track continues in a north-westerly direction over undulating ground, draining from right to left to the Wadi Argu, passing a low hill called J. Barga, and striking into a main branch of the Wadi Argu, along which the road runs over an excellent track with good grazing and plenty of trees.

30 33 At about 33 miles out from Jura, J. Gormuli, which is visible nearly the whole way, lay due N.

As far as the 45th mile (Henry) the route continues to follow the Wadi Argu, when it turns up a khor to the left, and after some 11 miles of a narrow, rocky pathway, descends to the river S.W. of J. Musa, the hill on which Kirbekan Battle was fought.

Kirbekan 21 54 The Wadi Argu joins the Nile at Kirbekan village. For the last 15 miles of its course the trees and vegetation increase, and from the number of dom palms it is probable that water would be found near the surface. There is usually water in a rain pool, called El Sihani, 10 or 12 miles from the river.

118.—OMDURMAN to GABRA.

By Colonel Hon. M. G. Talbot, R.E., November, 1903.

General remarks.The only obstacles to taking a bee line for Gabra are the Abu Meru or Merkhait hills, which have to be skirted either on the N. or on the S., and the Goz Abu Delua which has to be crossed. The latter is a belt of undulating ground, covered lightly with sand in some places, and perhaps heavily in others, running generally in N.N.E. by S.S.W. direction and probably varying in width. The best place to cross it is at the Hanakat El Goz, where a khor cuts its way through it. This may be looked on as an obligatory point, and it is here and round the northern and southern sides of the Merkhiat hills only that one sees signs of a definite path until within a few miles of the wells. After rain, water is said to stand in a place called Shegeig or Mushgeig near the Goz, otherwise there is no water on the road. After passing the Merkhait hills firewood abounds and grass was plentiful at the time of this journey. Trees are chiefly “samr” with a few “kittr,” “heglig,” and other bushes. There is no “hashab” as stated on Khartoum Sheet. A great deal of spear grass is met with, and the guide informed me that, but for his skilful leading, I should have met much more.

Owing to the absence of any track and the tussocky nature of the “tabas” grass, the going is not good, except in the neighbourhood of the Id Ennala.

The distances given in this route report are obtained by assuming the camels to have marched at about 2½ miles an hour, checked by measuring wheel; but the route taken was far from straight.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Omdurman — — Left old steamer workshops, turned N. at corner of Sur wall and, when clear of houses, made straight for Abu Meru hills; halted N. of them; a little grass; no firewood. Distance from Khartoum Sheet.

Abu Meru 8½ 8½

On clearing hills track disappeared. “Tabas” grass and “samr.”

Stony ridge 14 22½ Crossed by stony ridge.

Crossed by another stony ridge.

Crossed Khor Um Muherib (?) said to flow into Id Ennala; not a very apparent drainage line.

Id Ennala 14¼ 36¾ After passing one or two very minor khors, crossed Id Ennala; much “tabas” and “spear” grass. Many “samr” and a few “heglig” and “kittr” trees. Good grazing. Ground rather broken in a very small way, but difficult for camels at night.

Shegeig 8¼ 45 Passed a place on right called Shegeig or Mushgeig, where water stands after rain, and crossed to further side of Goz Abu Delua which had long been visible on left, parallel to route we followed. About a mile wide. The Hanakat is about 40 yards to 60 yards wide and full of “marakh” bushes. It is said the old Government tried to find water here, but failed. It is said to join the Shegeig, which is joined by the Id Ennala and falls into Nile at Wadi Bishara.

From up stream end of Hanak, Gabra is not visible, but the guide pointed it out as on 300° magnetic.

The Hanakat seems to have but a small basin W. of Goz.

Continued over slightly undulating plain with grass and scattered bushes.

Passed some dura cultivation on left. Seemed a poor crop.

Wadi Mogaddam 10 55 Turned more to N.N.E. and dropped over low stony ridge into the valley of the Wadi Mogaddam. Well but not densely wooded. Marched on bearing 330° magnetic to wells.

Gabra wells 3½ 58½

There are at least 15 wells of 60 to 70 feet depth. They water a very large number of animals daily. Level of water fluctuates with rain, after which the whole of the ground round the wells is said to be underwater. Remains of Dervish mud fort, circular, 12 yards diameter, loop-holed towards north, bears about 150° from wells, which are 400 yards distant; short shelter trench E. of wells. No remains of zeriba.

Many Kababish with large flocks and herds.

119.—GABRA to KORTI.

By Colonel Hon. M. G. Talbot, December, 1903.

General remarks.Till within a few miles of Korti the Wadi Mogaddam was practically followed throughout. It seems not to be used at all as a caravan road, as there is no track and no caravans were met. At the same time it seems an easy road to Omdurman, and very straight as far as Gabra.

The country passed through is flat and uninteresting. No hills of any remarkable height were seen, the highest being to the W. and N.W. of Gabra.

None of those near the route exceed 200 feet to 250 feet, relative height.

The Wadi Mogaddam consists of a depression marked by a belt of trees or grass, without any water channel whatever. Evidently there is never any flow of water on the surface of the wadi.

The belt of trees varies in width and character. At Gabra it must be nearly ¾ mile wide, and thick though not dense. There are some good “sayal,” “heglig,” “tundub,” and “samr” trees; lower down the trees diminish in size, the “sayal” is rarely met, and with the exception of a little “arak” and “kurmet” there is hardly anything but “samr” to be seen, with “tundub” in places. From Gaerin “selem” begins to be seen, and soon it becomes the principal growth.

Below Um Harot no grass was seen except burnt-up “tabas,” but that must depend on the year. On the whole, grazing for camels was very fair, but practically none for horses.

The line taken presented no difficulties whatever in the way of rocks or gradients. From a camel point of view there is no heavy sand, but it is not recommended as a route for motor-cars.

No supplies to be obtained except sheep and milk. Firewood is plentiful everywhere. Water seemed good everywhere except at Um Harot, where it was a little salt. The wells are all about 120 to 140 feet deep, except at Gabra, where they were 60 feet to 70 feet.

A guide is indispensable. With a guide there is no difficulty in marching by moonlight.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Gabra — — Left Gabra in a N.W. direction, and after a few minutes emerged from the trees on to the edge of the gently sloping plains, and turned north.

W. Um Deisis 5½ 5½ After two hours along the left edge of Wadi Mogaddam, the Wadi Um Deisis is crossed. It comes from Gambar Wells and forms the northern boundary of the Kababish in the Wadi Mogaddam. It is marked by some trees and 2 or 3 insignificant water channels, the only ones seen on the whole road.

Soon after a low sandy hill, with a tree on it, can just be made out in the distance and serves as direction point. It is passed at about 5 hours from Gabra, being left on the right.

Bir Hassanin 10½ 16 A little way further on Bir Hassanin, belonging to the Hassania, is passed. It is deeper than most, being about 144 feet.

Um Harot 4 20 From this on we kept well to the left of the wadi and made straight for Um Harot well, 120 feet deep, belonging to the Geriat.

It is situated on a bare bit of ground W. of the wadi and just where the Wadi Wohad joins it.

On the E. of the Mogaddam, which is here narrow, is a low black elevation, called J. Deim Gibur.

Bir El Simira 6 26 Kept for some miles more or less in the centre of the wadi, which is rather ill-defined; slight rises of ground occur at intervals on either bank. Reached Bir El Simiha, Geriat well, close under N.W. end of low black hill partially covered with sand.

Fanga Well 5 31 One and a-half hours further on, keeping to right of Mogaddam, passed a disused Geriat well called Um Khenoit, situated in a bare space that had once been zeribaed, and 15 minutes further on reached Fanga well, Geriat.

Gaerin 4 35 Still keeping on right edge of Mogaddam, after another 1½ hours Gaerin wells are reached.

There are several wells, about 120 feet deep, in a bare space of about half a square mile. Wood all round, including much “selem.” From this on very little grass was seen.

Bir El Agami 6 41 Kept along right edge of wadi, and after 1¼ hours crossed a wadi joining from E. Guide seemed to call it Wadi Teneida, but it was difficult to catch. An hour further on the nearest point to Bir El Agami was passed. This is the northern Geriat well, and lies about a mile E. of route.

After ¾ of an hour, the junction of the Wadi Melh is passed on the left.

Bir Eminalla 10 51 And 3 hours further on the first Hawawir well, Bir Eminalla, is reached.

From here the wadi begins to be more or less restricted by rising ground on either side which does not open out till within an hour of Um Rumeila.

Um Rumeila 12½ 63½ This well is situated on a bare stony patch just where the Wadi Gumr joins the Mogaddam. Most of the latter wadi keeps to the E. of it. From this point the Gumr hills, which have been visible for some time, are at their nearest and appear not more than 20 or 25 miles off. The plain, up to the sandy foothills, appears gently sloping and bare. The hills have the appearance of a long gravelly ridge of very uniform and no great height, but it is unlikely that they are of gravel. A few hills are visible to the N.W., and a group of low hills called Mingit bears 44° magnetic. Salt is obtained either from these hills or from the low ridges in their vicinity.

Wadi Hamid 11 74½ Kept down wadi, passing junction of W. Anderab at about 4 miles, to junction of Wadi Hamid with Mogaddam. There is some “selem” here; from this on it becomes more and more frequent. The Wadi Hamid comes from a low hill called Sud Wad Hamid or some such name.

A few miles up it is joined by the W. Abu Sedeir, in which there is a Hawawir well, which lies on the road from Um Tub to Hanboti.

El Gab Abu Gambur 14 88½ After an hour along the right edge of wadi kept a little E. of N. over some broken ground for about two hours, and then returned to wadi and kept more or less up its right edge till within the group of hills called El Gab Abu Gambur.

On the E. side of the southernmost of these hills, on the left bank, is an ancient enclosure said to have been built by the Anak. A semi-circular wall descending from the steep part of the hill encloses a bit of gently sloping ground near the base. The distance between the two horns is about 120 yards, and the distance from the line joining the two ends to the lowest point is about 70 yards.

The wall is 8 feet or 9 feet thick throughout, and 6 feet high at the lowest point of the hill, diminishing regularly to nothing as it ascends the hill.

There is a gate at the lowest point, which is fairly well built, while the rest of the wall has a very peculiar appearance from all the stones being used upright on their ends. There is a legend that the Hawawir found a well there when they first came to the country.

About an hour beyond the W. Eishat comes in on the right. Kept generally on the right edge of the wadi, in some places keeping on the sloping ground above it; a good many low hills W. of wadi. Crossed a low saddle on W. of wadi, which is here much less wooded, and in places hard to identify. A couple of miles before reaching Wadi Mahal junction, wadi passes between two hills on left and right bank, known as J. Abu Mara and Nasub El Abid respectively.

Wadi Mahal 19½ 108 The Wadi Mahal joins on right bank. The Hawawir sometimes cultivate up this wadi.

The Mogaddam becomes more wooded again; a low saddle is crossed on right bank and then a straight line is made for Um Tub. A great deal of “tundub,” some “selem,” and “samr.”

Um Tub 8 116 Um Tub well, 120 feet deep, situated on a very slight rise in open plain on right edge of wadi. A track from here to Bayuda well. Bad going, 2 days for hamla.

J. El Hueimi 18 134 From here low hills are constantly in sight, each of which has a name, but none are conspicuous. Much “selem” and “samr,” very good going. The general direction is a little W. of N. J. El Hueimi, a low hill, serves as a direction mark from some distance till it is reached.

Wadi Bayuda 7 141 After which J. Abno, on the right bank of the Nile opposite Korti, becomes visible and is marched on. A couple of miles further on the W. Megeirid joins the Mogaddam from the E. It looks as if it must flow out of the Wadi Bayuda, but it may come from a very short way. After crossing it, kept over low gravelly ridges, rather trying for camels’ feet, till the Wadi Bayuda was reached. The Wadi Bayuda appears to come from the hills in the neighbourhood of Jakdul. It contains much “selem” and “samr,” and there was excellent grazing where it was crossed. It flows out near Ambukol.

Korti 9 150 From here it is best to keep a little west of the straight line to Korti and along the right edge of the wadi, in order to avoid more gravel ridges; after 1½ hours a track is struck which leads past Korti village to the new Government offices, just west of the old fort of 1897-98.

120.—KORTI to BAYUDA WELLS.

By Colonel Hon. M. G. Talbot, December, 1903.

General remarks.The road ascends generally the wadi by which the drainage of the Khor Bayuda descends. Though, possibly, people living on the river or at a distance call the whole wadi by the name of Bayuda, the local Arabs give each part of it a different name.

From the source to a little below the wells appears to be called Khor Bayuda. Up to this point it has a defined bed, in which water flows after rain. After passing J. Barkol it becomes Wadi Barkol, being now, and remaining, a broad wadi with no water channel. Soon after it becomes Wadi El Zein, till it is joined by the large Wadi Abu Gia, whose name it retains till near Korti. It is not quite clear whether it keeps it to the end or adopts the name Abu Gidean after its junction with that wadi.

The going is extremely good, there being no difficulty whatever.

Though a good deal used, there is no marked track till near the wells. The numerous small isolated hills act as efficient landmarks, so that everyone takes his own line.

Except for the short and uncertain period when green grass can be obtained, “selem” is the best camel grazing in all this country. It is found almost all the way in the wadi.

No supplies were obtainable of any sort on the road or at Bayuda wells in December, 1903.

A little shade is to be got in winter, but practically none in summer.

The distances were measured by wheel and adjusted to the astronomical positions. The hours are those actually marched by light hamla.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Korti village, west end — — For the first 4 miles one of the tracks leading to Um Tub is followed, the route then bends slightly to left, keeping up the right edge of the Wadi Abu Gia, which has plenty of “selem” and other trees, till it crosses it at 13 miles.

13 13

J. Shankawi 3½ 16½ It now keeps along the left side of the wadi, which has shrunk almost to nothing above the junction of the Abu Gia, passing J. Shankawi at 3½ miles, and returning to the wadi, where “selem” bushes reappear.

8½ 25 The route keeps on straight near the southern of the two Sawileil hills, past J. El Zein, which is left 1½ miles on the right, crosses the Wadi El Zein, and a very low and easy saddle.

14 39 It descends just to the right of a very small hill called Nasb Um Handal, passes between J. Um Serre and J. Barkol, and crosses the fairly well wooded W. Rahaba, just N. of the little hill called Nasb El Rahaba.

8 47 After 5 miles it meets the well marked track from Merowe, and at 6 miles it crosses a low ridge, and descends into the valley of the wadi, here called Wadi Bayuda.

At 6½ miles it crosses the actual bed, some 40 yards wide and 6 feet deep, and at 7 miles the wells are reached.

Bayuda wells 7 54 The wells are situated in the bed of the khor and are filled up, whenever there is a spate. At the time of the visit, the Arabs were drawing water from a hole about a mile up; but they had begun to clean out the real wells.

There are said to be two other wells, El Nasaib and Um Sideiri, about 2½ hours up on the way to Hanboti.

Just at the wells it is fairly open, though surrounded by low hills. Half a mile further up the khor is closely shut in by hills covered with boulders.

121.—BAYUDA WELLS to TANGASI MARKET.

By Colonel Hon. M. G. Talbot, December, 1903.

General Remarks.From Bayuda wells to Wadi Abu Gia there is an extremely well marked track, profusely beaconed in the Arab manner. Further N. the stream of traffic divides according to the part of the Merowe district for which the traveller is bound or from which he starts.

The going is excellent throughout; no difficulties whatever.

The route appears to be of recent origin.

Formerly the produce of the Province used to make its way to Berber via Sani, and this new trade route, sometimes called the Hawashawi route, from a hill of that name, seems to have been established to meet the new conditions in the Sudan.

From Bayuda the route keeps straight on, crossing the Goz Abu Delua just before reaching Hanboti, and strikes the Nile near the Shabluka. Between Bayuda and Merowe there are considerable stretches without any camel grazing, and there is no shade of any value in hot weather. The distances were measured by wheel and adjusted to the astronomical positions.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Bayuda Wells — — On leaving the wells for the first mile the Korti track is followed. On issuing from the hills, the track, which is well marked, gradually separates from the Korti route, making for higher ground, and keeps on in a practically straight line, crossing the heads of some of the small wadis that join the main one from Bayuda, and passing over a number of infinitesimal saddles that separate them.

There is nothing of interest along the road.

J. Hawashawi 26 26 A number of small hills, each too small to show properly on the scale, but sometimes forming a mass of considerable area, are passed; but the only one worth noticing is J. Hawashawi, which is said to give a name to the route.

Wadi Abu Gia 7½ 33½ There is very little camel grazing on the route generally, and after this none is met with till the Wadi Abu Gia is reached, where there are some “selem” and other trees.

Birgat El Seleim 9 42½ The Wadi Abu Gia is the route used by the Camel Corps in 1885, and is still known as Sikkat El Ingliz. The country now becomes still more bare; the tussocks of burnt up “tabas” grass, that have been hitherto seen occasionally, no longer appear, and with the exception of some “selem” bushes in the neighbourhood of Birgat El Seleim, a low hill, no green thing is seen till the Wadi Kurei is reached in the neighbourhood of the Birgat Wadi Kurei, from the top of which there is a good view.

Birgat Wadi Kurei 14 56½

Tangasi 7 63½ From here into Tangasi Market the route (there is no track) is over a low gravel ridge and then across a level plain.