Volume 2 — APPENDIX. (continued 2)

T. Eriwani 11 258 Five miles beyond L. Fincha, skirting the western slopes of T. Ghinghi, the track is rough and hilly. Several small streams rise in this hill and, after uniting, flow away S. between T. Jerko and T. Wallel, becoming, lower down, the Birbiri, which joins the Baro near Gore. T. Wallel is now very clearly seen to the S.W. T. Eriwani forms the watershed between the head waters of the Birbiri and the tributaries of the Yabus. Water is rather scarce between T. Ghinghi and Eriwani. Fitaurari Debaba’s second house is in a very conspicuous position on the watershed, W. of the road.

Najo 10 268 To Najo the road is easy, and country open. The Lagas, Henna, and Dilla are crossed, the latter a considerable stream, in which a certain amount of gold washing is done. The sides of its valley are very steep.

About 2 miles S. of Najo and 1½ miles E. of the road is M. Camboul’s house in the midst of his trial shafts. This is the most promising part of M. Ilg’s concession.

Najo is only a small village, but Dejaj Kumsa is building a new house there to be his hunting head-quarters.

Guti Mudema 7 275 Passing Najo the country begins to fall perceptibly, and is much more open. The undulations are broader, lower, and flatter. There is less cultivation, but many more cattle. The inhabitants are few, and are mainly engaged, it is said, in the gold-washing on the Yabus.

Guti Mudema is simply a post on the watershed between the Lagas Alatu and Genasi and the L. Deivo, which commands a very extensive view into Beni Shangul and the Lega Galla country. The two former streams flow between clay banks. All this country was traversed after a considerable amount of rain had fallen, so all the streams were flowing strongly. As a rule, they would be quite shallow.

L. Deivo 2½ 277½ Flows in a deep valley, with very steep sides.

Gori 7 284½ A small village, the residence of Fitaurari Densa. Road is over an open plateau with a strongly-marked escarp falling to the W.; to the E. a range of low mountains, running N., marks the great escarp from the western side of the Didessa and southern side of the Abai valley.

L. Komiso 3½ 288 The ground falls very rapidly into the Komiso valley, which is bound by a very steep, high escarp on the S. Between the Komiso and Mendi there is a wide broken valley, with the L. Sache flowing past T. Wandi, a well-marked hill 2 miles W. of the road. This hill is the northern limit of Dejaj Goti’s country, which appears to extend up in a narrow strip along the E. side of the Yabus.

Mendi 19 307 Mendi lies just S. of the last rise before the road makes its final descent into the Yabus. Here the promontory between the Didessa, Abai, and Yabus breaks into two ranges of hills, one running due N. by Gumbi and one N.W. towards the Beni Shangul hills through G. Gunfi. The road descends by the W. side of the valley in the fork, and is very steep and rough, the side of the valley being, as well, cumbered with with dense bamboo.

Mendi is the last Galla village, and from there to the Yabus water cannot be counted on.

L. Badeisa 12 319 Halfway down the descent there is generally water in small quantities, but the camping ground is uneven, confined, and with no good feeding when bamboo is out of leaf.

W. of the road near Mendi the ground falls gradually, with slight undulation, to the Yabus. There is thick wooding, and till quite lately the valley was quite full of elephants, but these are rapidly being exterminated.

Buffalo, waterbuck, hartebeest, and probably greater kudu are abundant.

K. Dabeisa 7 326 This practically marks the end of the descent, and the road from here to the Yabus is easy. Black population (very thin) begins. Bertas.

K. Yabus or L. Dabus 9 335 Yabus is the Arabic, and Dabus the Galla variant of the name; was slightly in flood when crossed, and was then about 100 feet wide and 3 feet deep at the ford. There is another crossing further S., near where the river breaks through the connection between the Gunfi and Beni Shangul mountains.

N. of the crossing is a wide, flat valley with some scattered hills.

K. Sheira 5 340 Crossing the river the ground soon begins to rise. There is a little water in K. Sheira.

J. Aside 7 347 A pass over J. Aside leads into the sub-district of Afodu, which is under a woman called Zem Zem. The village of Afodu is the head-quarters of a Kanyazmach, the Abyssinian commandant in Beni Shangul. Water is drawn from the Tumat, in which there are always pools.

Afodu 2 349

K. Tumat 2 351

K. Mange 7 358 Through Beni Shangul there are no difficulties on the road, though the going is bad, owing to the amount of small quartz stones everywhere. The K. Mange is dry. N. of it and W. of the road is J. Fadamo, which is very steep, rocky, and thickly wooded. Here Abd el Rahman’s people made their last stand against the Abyssinians, and it took 12 days’ fighting to clear the hill, both sides losing heavily. The final surrender was only induced by hunger.

Bomo 7 365 At Bomo there is a small village, but like all those seen in Beni Shangul, it is half deserted. It is very difficult to form an idea of how thickly the country is inhabited, as the bush completely shuts in all the villages. A good many were seen from the top of J. Fadamo, but it was a very misty day and it was hard to make them out distinctly.

Belfodio Khamis 5 370 This is the head-quarters of Fitaurari Mohammed Wad Hojali, brother of Abd el Rahman (Tur el Guri), and is generally called Khamis by the Abyssinians.

Famaka (Blue Nile) 60 430 Remainder of route in Sudan.

130.—ROSEIRES to ABU RAMLA and DUNKUR.

By Major C. W. Gwynn, C.M.G., D.S.O., June, 1901.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Roseires (Abramat) — — The road to Abu Ramla is a very narrow track much shut in by thick bush and grass. After rain the heavy clay soil produces a particularly heavy and sticky mud.

For 5 miles from the river the bush is very thick and soil very heavy. From the 5th to 10th mile the soil becomes more sandy and the bush is thinner. At 12th mile 3 large adansonias are passed; soil heavy clay but bush still open.

El Geri (Sheikh’s Village) 23 23 At the 16th mile the road reaches the El Geri hills and turns sharply north-east skirting their foot. These hills are not more than 200 feet high and are covered with low trees. They form a continuous mass though much broken and rocky. Along the northern slopes there is a quantity of bamboo, and road is stony. Skirting round north and north-east foot of the hills, road comes to a small Hameg village. Water (the first since Roseires) is obtained up a steep valley 1 mile south of the village. Road skirts the hills to this point, and then strikes off east again to J. Migin. Ground is nearly flat and clay very heavy, bush thick except at the 31st mile where there is a slight rise and open ground. Number of giraffe along the road.

J. Migin 14 37 J. Migin is a small rocky hill. At its northern end is a water hole in the rocks, which seldom is emptied, but which does not appear to be fed by a spring, so should not be depended on. There are said to be other water holes on the hills.

J. Abu Ramla 17 54 No water from this to Abu Ramla except after rain. Khor Madar, which flows to Khor Zagoli, crossed first branch at 44th mile, and second ½ mile further on. Road passes 1 mile south of J. Withwith and strikes the Abu Ramla mountain half-way along its west side, crossing the large dry Khor Aluk a mile before. Road then turns north and skirts round the northern foot of the mountain.

Mek’s Village 4 58 Mek Adam Wad Dafeir’s Village is at the foot of the north-east corner of the mountain. Several other small villages are passed before reaching. Water is obtained from wells in Khor Ramla, a mile east of the mountain, quality not good, but 100 animals were easily kept in water.

Mek is of Fung origin, but the inhabitants chiefly Gumz.

From Abu Ramla, the trade road to Dunkur passes through Abu Mendi my party left the main track however at the first point where Dinder is met, and after that no well defined track was found till a couple miles before the Khor Adabiba.

Khor Ramla 1 59 Leaving Abu Ramla, road strikes almost due east. The soil is much more sandy, and even in wet weather fairly good going. Bush generally very thick, principally low trees.

Khor Babeheir 9 68 Large pool in Khor Babeheir; a khor about 10 yards wide, rising in the Bongo Hills and flowing to the Dinder. Road skirts north of J. Abu Nesag, a low rocky hill. Road stony, and several small dry khors to cross.

J. Abu Nesag 1½ 69½

Khor Abujar (Abu Holgar) 5 74½ Khor Abujar, sandy bottom, was in flood when crossed, but would probably always contain water in pools or in wells, 50 yards wide, banks easy.

Khor Ainki 4 78½ Khor Ainki was in flood, only just fordable, gravelly bed, 50 yards wide; water always obtainable. Good camping ground, east bank. Just east of the khor there is a slight gravelly rise, but bush still very thick; no view obtainable. Road turns north-east to the Dinder.

Khor Barageili 5½ 84 Khor Barageili. Fair camping ground; water in pools.

Dinder R. 1½ 85½ Dinder is reached at the foot of small rocky hill, J. Mogumbi. Main road to Dunkur appears to skirt along the bank, but the ground is very broken and path is almost invisible. With a view to taking the most direct road, the expedition crossed the river—about 100 yards wide, stony, and rocky. Rapid flow of water, 2 feet deep. Guides missed the track, which was said to exist, but of which there was little or no sign, and when the Dinder was met again it was above the ford the guides had been making for. River was followed to the mouth of the Khor Abu Gemmeiz, where it was just fordable. Bush traversed was very thick; quantities of water buck, roan antelope, and other game.

Dinder and Khor 14 99½ River forded just above the junction—100 yards wide. River in partial flood, 3 feet deep. Skirted along left bank of Dinder along a disused track.

Khor Damu 5½ 105 Khor Damu, 20 yards wide, rocky with steep banks. Left river and reached 1st Terrace which marked the beginning of the foot hills. Path came in from south apparently from Abu Mendi.

1st Terrace 2 107

Khor Adabiba 1½ 108½ Khor Adabiba, small khor with large pools; water always found.

Dunkur (Sheikh Nasser’s) 9½ 118 The road touches the Dinder at 55th mile, and then turns towards the chief village of the Dunkur district, which lies in undulating ground about 2½ miles south of the Dinder. There is a considerable amount of cotton grown, and tribute to Kwara is paid in cotton. The natives are of a mixed Hamag and Gumz stock. Many of them can speak Amharic as well as Arabic. A few Abyssinians are generally to be found here.

131.—DUNKUR to GALLABAT.

By Major C. W. Gwynn, June, 1901.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Dunkur — —

Dinder 2½ 2½ About 100 yards wide, 3 feet deep; stream 3 miles an hour (but this was after rain). Banks easy, bed stony; a good deal of limestone in the river bed.

Khor Ajban 3½ 6 Country on north bank fairly open. Pool of good water in Khor Ajban.

Sheikh Hassan’s 1½ 7½ Sheikh Hassan’s Village small, and many of inhabitants have moved to Gallabat. At the first village, ½ mile beyond Khor Ajban, road branches east to Kwara.

Dardakara 6½ 14 Road stony, and crosses a number of khors—some dry, but most with good pools—before reaching the practically deserted village of Dardakara.

Adzko 1 15 Adzko also deserted.

Khor Adzko 1½ 16½ Large pool of good water in khor: road, very rough, skirting north side of J. Wadrabah.

Site of old Dunkur village in hills to east of road.

Khor Gelagu 4 20½ Village of Gelagu, on south side of khor, only contains 3 or 4 families. Khor is 20 yards wide; unlimited water supply, though little stream is apparent.

From Gelagu there is a road round the Umzenidi hill, but the more direct road is over the pass N.E. of the village—this is stony but fairly easy.

El Gulut (Khor Afar) 6½ 27 El Gulut is a considerable Kunjara village on the Khor Afar (a good sized khor with water in pools). From Gulut there is a road to Kwara. A good deal of cotton is grown in neighbourhood. There is a direct route from El Gulut to the Khor Dibaba, near J. Bayisa, but a more easterly route through Magumbal (a deserted village) avoids the cotton soil.

Magumbal 5 32

Khor Dibaba 6½ 38½ Khor Dibaba, 30 yards wide with large pools, is crossed about 1 mile west of J. Bayisa. A very large wild fig tree at the crossing.

Seraf Ardeiba 9½ 48 Up to this point water is plentiful, but none is met with crossing the watershed between Rahad and Dinder. Road is well marked and good. Very little water in the Seraf Ardeiba. Road skirting this khor is rough.

Rahad R. 5 53 Rahad about 50 yards wide, very slight flow of water between large pools. Bed stony. Many crocodiles in pools. Good camping grounds either bank.

Khor Andeiogo 4 57 On north bank of Rahad there is cotton soil, trees not so thick but more grass. Khor Andeiogo would generally be dry but there is a small pool east of the road. J. Dagarish, a low wooded hill, lies on the road at 59th mile. Khor Teir is a large dry khor.

Khor Tair 6½ 63½

No water obtainable.

Shortly after crossing Khor Teir, ascent of the escarp, extending from J. Madbura to J. Belula, and forming the watershed between Rahad and Atbara, begins.

The ascent of the lower spurs of J. Belula is pretty steep.

New Shangal 9½ 73 New Shangal is on the watershed and has only recently been built.

Shangal 1½ 74½ Shangal Khor is the first place after passing the Rahad that water can be relied on.

Gallabat 4½ 79 On the top of the escarp, cultivation begins and extends at intervals to Gedaref.

132.—FAZOGLI TO KIRIN.

By Lieutenant Jackson, R.E., January, 1900.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Fazogli — — Follow Kukuru road for ½ mile, then keep to right and follow road leading about N.N.W. in the direction of Famaka. Gradual ascent to crest of ridge forming watershed parallel to Fazogli ridge, along which road runs. Numerous small khors run down on either side to join the river on the N., or the K. Akluli on the S.

Some tukls forming part of the village of Fazogli.

Khor Mogo ¼ 1¼ Road descends abruptly and crosses the Khor Mogo, and shortly afterwards the Khor Kulili. Both these khors about 15 feet wide with steep rocky banks.

Khor Kulili ¼ 1½

Road now rises and crosses the outlying spurs of J. Fazogli. Extremely rough going and ground covered with large boulders and rocks. River only about 200 yards off in places, with Famaka plainly visible on opposite bank. Left bank of river here consists of perpendicular rock from 10 to 30 feet high.

(Forked Roads) 1½ 3 Road continues extremely hilly and difficult until third mile, where road divides, that on the right leading to Deshalu and Abu Shaneina.

The road now takes a S.W. direction and descends gradually into a flat bush. Road good, and level except where it crosses khors.

Khor Annis Sanganni ¾ 3¾ Fifteen yards broad, high banks. On the further side cultivation begins and continues with a few intervals of bush the whole way to Masarkum. Dura is the chief product and is of all three kinds. The crop appears to be a very fine one.

Ainyet (not visited) 1¼ 5 Road on right leading to Ainyet (not visited). Said to be a large village.

Khor (?) 1 6 Small khor, 5 yards wide, low banks.

Ragreig Village 3¾ 9¾ For the next mile the cultivation appears to be particularly good and the bush begins and continues almost without interruption until within ½ mile of Ragreig—small village—scattered tukls.

Khor (?) ¼ 10 Much cultivation. Small khor with sandy bottom. Road follows bed for 250 yards.

Ragreig Village 1½ 11½ Straggling village on low ridge running N. and S., at present uninhabited, Tukls in a bad state of repair, and the whole place overgrown with grass.

Abu Gara ¾ 12¼ Compact and well kept. The residence of the brother of the Mek of Fazogli.

Khor Tumat ½ 12¾ Quarter mile further on through the dura fields the Khor Tumat is reached. About 200 or 300 yards broad here. Very shallow level bed, sandy. Road goes straight on, crossing it diagonally to where it is joined by the Khor Masarkum. Some pools of very dirty stagnant water here. Better water to be obtained about ¼ mile up the Khor Masarkum from the holes dug in the bed of the khor by the inhabitants of this place. The water also is very bad however and full of mud.

Khor Masarkum ¼ 13

Masarkum (Sheikh Bikori) ¼ 13¼ A fair sized village, surrounded by dura fields. Rest house. Sheep, eggs, and milk (cows) readily obtained. There is (1900) only one cow however in the town, the remainder having been looted by Dervishes.

Leaving Masarkum the road runs south-west along a ridge or plateau on the left bank of the Khor Masarkum. The ground on this side of the khor is much smoother, and there is little thorn as far as J. Burgan. On the opposite side the bush appears to be thick. There is a quantity of cultivation; dura grown to a great height and producing fine ears. All soil appears good. Several villages are visible on the north side of the road. All go by the name of Ragreig which is probably the word for the class of slaves or serfs that inhabit them. Road very good.

J. Burgan 4¾ 18 A low hill south of road marks the limit of cultivation, and from this the bush is thicker, though there is little thorn, chiefly low large leaved trees, like young oaks, and thin grass.

Khor Masarkum (1st crossing) 1¼ 19¼ Khor Masarkum is crossed four times. It is here known as Khor Timsah. At the first crossing water still in natural pools, and at third crossing obtainable by digging. It is about 20 feet wide, with sandy bottom, and vertical banks 12 feet high. Probably unfordable in flood.

3rd crossing 2¼ 21½

After fourth crossing a dry and waterless country is entered. Hardly any khors, and these extremely small. One patch of cultivation surrounded by a zeriba about ½ mile beyond last crossing. Otherwise thin bush and grass. Road good on the whole, but there is a good deal of loose stone.

J. Farfira (Pass) 4 25½ Road runs along foot of this jebel for some distance, and then crosses it by a pass about 200 feet high. Ascent and descent rough and stony, but not very difficult for donkeys. Rest house here.

Road now keeps close to the foot of J. Farfira, and keeping its original direction, leaves J. Gamella on the right.

South of J. Gamella there are more traces of water, and the khors become more frequent and larger. Country undulating.

Khor El Hassan 8¾ 34¼ Khor with hard shingle bed about 30 yards broad. High steep banks. Rest house here. Water good and plentiful, but only by digging. Tributary of the Khor Tumat flowing northwards.

After crossing khor, country again flat and waterless, and covered with thin bush and grass.

J. Gami 3½ 37¾ Road skirts northern spur and then runs in a south easterly direction towards centre of J. Ragreig. Ground now becomes uneven and much intersected by small khors flowing from the neighbouring hills to join Khor Shikatar. This khor rises in J. Ragreig and is at this point about 10 yards broad. Rocks and gravel in bed. Low banks.

The hills comprising J. Ragreig form a horseshoe, up the central valley between the horns of which the road runs. After crossing the Khor Shikatar for the first time, the road gradually ascends a spur running down from the main or western ridge of J. Ragreig. About ¼ mile further on it gradually returns to the valley, and crossing the Khor Shikatar it rises to the pass between the main peak of Ragreig and the conical peak immediately east of it.

Road follows course of Khor Shikatar roughly. Ascent nowhere very steep, but rough and stony. Thick bush and trees in the valley.

J. Ragreig 4½ 42¼ The pass over which the road runs is roughly 250 feet high. Nothing can be seen to the north without ascending one of the two peaks on either side, owing to trees; to the south a good view of the country can be seen, especially J. Keili, distant about 7 miles. This pass forms the boundary between Fazogli and Keili. Guides state that ridge west of road belonged to Fazogli, and that east of road to Keili. Jebel was originally inhabited, but is now deserted. Inhabitants have gone, some to Fazogli, some to Keili, forming the various Ragreig villages which are scattered about. Descent from pass on south side much steeper than ascent on north. Road zigzags at first, and then runs straight down, passing between two small jebels. Very rough and stony. Jebel on right inhabited by Ragreig people, no name obtainable.

Country now very level again with slope downwards towards J. Keili. Thin bush and grass. Road good.

Khor Magansor 2½ 44¾ Thirty yards wide. Rocky bed. High banks. No water at present.

Khor Ofat ½ 45¼ Twenty yards wide. Bed here full of rocks. Water plentiful. Pools still remaining, but water stagnant, and it is necessary to dig to obtain good water (Jan. 1900).

½ 45¾ Cultivation now begins opposite northern extremity of J. Keili, but only in patches, which are enclosed in thorn zaribas. Chiefly dura.

Road runs through centre of level ground lying between J. Keili on the right and Jebels Anguba and Fashola on the left.

1½ 47¼ Cultivation becomes continuous, extending to foot of jebels on either side of road. Large trees scattered about, especially near jebels. Mek’s house lies at the foot of J. Keili, opposite J. Fashola.

Keili (camp under J. Fashola) 1 48¼

There is no regular village, as the tukls are scattered round at the foot of the hills. All the centre part of the valley is more or less under water during the rains.

Rest house here. Supplies of all kinds except vegetables and fruit are plentiful. I counted one herd of 20 fine cows on first entering valley. Natives will take Egyptian money, but seem to prefer empty bottles or necklaces, soap would probably go well. Donkeys are scarce, and it is difficult to hire or buy.

Road on leaving valley skirts J. Fashola closely, and then heads nearly due south for J. Kamye.

Towards south and west there is a stretch of apparently unbroken flat bush to the horizon. Cultivation ceases almost directly.

Khor Gulbis 1½ 49¾ Ten yards wide, said to flow into Blue Nile near Abu Shaneina.

At 2 miles from Keili there is a knoll on some high ground, with a large and prominent tree, which forms a good landmark when approaching from the north.

J. Kamye — — A low lying range of round-topped hills. No rock showing, grass right up to summit. Road passes through outlying spurs and knolls of this jebel on the western side. Come cultivation on northern slopes, and a great deal (chiefly dura) on the south-west.

Khor Dunga 4 53¾ Leaving J. Kange on right, road passes through some low ground covered with bamboo, probably swampy in rainy season, crossing Khor Dunga, 10 yards wide.

Road now crosses a succession of small khors, all running west to join the Khor Timsah. Low ridges between khors.

Khor Umburri 3¾ 57 Ten yards wide, steep banks, sandy bed, bush becomes thicker beyond this khor.

Khor Ahemir 1¾ 58¾ Five yards wide, low banks where road crosses; joins Khor Timsah about ¾ mile further west.

Khor Timsah ¼ 59 Twenty yards wide, very rocky bed, steep banks; flows about due west where crossed by road, but turns north about ¼ mile further down stream. Probably joins Khor Gulbis.

One large and deep pool of water at present, where road crosses, supply considerable, and fish can be caught in it; very muddy water, but appears to be good.

Road becomes more level now, and fewer small khors to cross.

J (?) 2¼ 61¼ Low hills, thickly covered with grass and bush.

Road runs up a central spur. Ascent gradual and road fairly good. Descent on north side also along spur, but steeper; road not so good, and covered with loose stones.

Khor Gummi 2¾ 64 Twelve yards wide; stones in bed.

Khor Mingil ½ 64½ A small shall khor. Hills (J. Mingil) now begin on either side. Road good, no steep gradients. Bush all over the hills, very thick in the valleys, but thinner, and long grass on top.

J. Kurmuk 3¾ 68¼ Gradual descent to foot of J. Kurmuk. Tukls scattered round jebel, but probably not very many inhabitants.

Latter all fled at our approach, and very little information could be obtained. No water near road, but a little is said to be procurable further round jebel. Apparently nothing for sale.

Road to Dul now turns off in a more easterly direction, and takes a straight course towards the jebel, which is plainly visible. Country quite flat and shallow until Khor El Dahab is reached. Bush thick. Probably wet and boggy during rains.

Khor Wirta ½ 68¾ Five yards wide, sandy bed. Just after this khor a road branches off to right, which, according to the guides, is used as an alternative road to Dul in wet weather, it rejoins the main road further on.

Khor el Dahab 3½ 72¼ Twenty yards wide, banks steep, about 20 feet high, sandy bed. Winds very much in and out amongst these bends for some distance before actually crossing it. Good water obtainable here at present, also at a place about 200 yards before that, at which the road crosses khor. Gold found here about ¼ mile before crossing khor; there are a number of circular shaft about 3 feet in diameter, and some about as much as 20 feet deep, from which the earth is taken. This is the first important khor in the basin of the White Nile.

Khor Goshindo 2¾ 75 Small khor with steep banks.

Road now becomes hilly, and follows edge of high ground, the ground on the left falling away rapidly to khor in valley below.

Dul 2¼ 77¼ No actual town, but a number of tukls scattered about outlying spurs of Dul, also on north side of valley, and khor, which runs down in a north-westerly direction from the hills.

The natives depend entirely upon the gold which they find, and import all supplies from Gomasha. Nothing seems to be grown in this country. They are an idle and very unintelligent people, and are unwilling to be of any assistance. They seem to be genuinely afraid of the Abyssinians. Water plentiful and fairly good obtained in khor.

Road now takes a southerly direction and skirts the eastern slopes of J. Dul, winding in and out amongst its spurs. Road rough in places and stony, but on the whole good. Tukls on all the high ground.

Khor Biberis 1½ 78¾ Small khor with rocky bed.

Khor Adunga ½ 79¼ Small shallow khor. Gold pits along banks.

Arakuba ¼ 79½ A collection of a few tukls on the main jebel.

Khor Udanduk 1¼ 80¾ Actual channel 5 yards wide, it has low banks, and evidently overflows its banks. Road crosses it just beyond the south-western spur of J. Dul, and heads direct for J. Mindon.

Khor Gensogala ¼ 81 Five yards wide, sandy bed.

(Forked roads) ¼ 81¼ Road divides; that on right going to Kirin viâ Kumfo, and Jebels Beldoesu and Fana Gamenta; that on the left viâ Goha, Asosa, and Fadasi.

The former is a direct road, and could easily be made fairly good by clearing bamboo and levelling. It is very little used, however, and there are no villages along it. Water is somewhat scarce. The latter, as far as we went, is a very bad hilly road; but a great trade route and very much used. Probably good when once the watershed is crossed.

— 81¼ Take right hand road at fork (left to Gomasha). Road crosses a number of small khors. Ground between low-lying, and would probably be mostly under water during rains. A great deal of bamboo. Road difficult to find.

Khor Ageheni ¾ 82 Broad shallow khor with low banks and sandy bed. Road followed by us did not cross khor at this point, but took us some distance more to the west before doing so. We were without guides, however, and the road is difficult to follow. Probably we made an unnecessary detour. Plenty of water just below the surface. Natives were washing gold just below where we crossed; their tukls are scattered all about here.

1¼ 83¼

J. Kumfo 1¾ 85 Small jebels with tukls on them; a little cultivation; road passes west of them.

Khor (?) 1 86 Road passes between jebels, crossing small khor, very rough and rocky, and sides of khor steep. Road runs now along eastern slopes of hills. Very rough and covered with bamboo, which brings rate of progress of caravan down to about 2 miles per hour. From here to the camp by the small khor S. of Khor Delligi.

Khor Belligi 1¼ 87¼ Twenty five yards broad, very shallow, sandy bed. No water.

Khor (?) 1 88¼ Small khor with very rocky bed and difficult crossing for Hamla. Two large pools of very good water (Jan. 1900).

Road continues in a south-easterly direction. Bush on both sides, but a small patch of cultivation on the right at one place.

(Forked roads) 1 89¼ Road divides; take right hand branch, leading straight towards J. Beldoesu.

1 90¼ Two small shallow khors, 15 yards wide, sandy.

Khor (?) 1¼ 91½ Khor 20 yards wide, a little water on digging.

J. Beldoesu — — Road now keeps along western slopes of J. Beldoesu. Numerous small deep khors to cross, and ground exceedingly rough and difficult for Hamla. On leaving J. Beldoesu road improves and runs up and across valley between J. Fanaoge and J. Fanagamenta.

K. Zalan 5¼ 96¾ A large quantity of excellent water in pools in the rock. Best place for Hamla to cross is by a sandbank, just above the rock.

Beyond Khor Zalan the road is fairly good, but progress of Hamla is very much hampered by the bamboo.

(Pass) 6¼ 103 Road gradually ascends, and finally runs over a low and easy pass between J. Fanaoge and J. Fanagamenta. Pass about 200 feet high. Descent on south side along eastern slopes of valley. Khors are numerous and very deep, but no water. Road extremely rough and hilly.

Khor Ahrakad 5¼ 108¼ Small khor with stony bed. A little water on digging, but supply salty and very limited. This khor is not actually crossed by the road at the point where best water is found, but lies a short distance to the east.

J. Taza — — A fair sized jebel with two peaks and extremely steep sides. Road passes west of it.

Khor Lashe ¾ 109 Small khor with steep banks.

¾ 109¾ Road forks; keep to right.

Khor Turus(or Yander) ½ 110¼ Broad khor with stony bed.

J. Belsuri — — Road now passes between J. Belsuri on left and J. Hode on right. Rather hilly and rough.

J. Hode — — These hills are inhabited, and there is some cultivation.

1¼ 111½ Forked roads in open space; keep to left.

In the valley, through which road now runs, there is a great deal of cultivation. Flat bush as far as the eye can reach towards south and south-west.

Khor Gaduk 3 114½ Small khor with steep banks, a little muddy water still left above ground (Jan. 1900).

Agani 1½ 116 A few tukls; a considerable quantity of cultivation, chiefly dura.

(Forked roads) 1 117 Forked roads; keep to right.

(Forked roads) 1½ 118½ Forked roads—keep to left.

Khor (?) ¼ 118¾ Small khor 10 yards wide—south bank steep.

Ashuli ¼ 119 A few tukls surrounded by cultivation. Road turns to left and then bears round to right, and skirts the southern slopes of J. Gushu; rough in places, but good on the whole.

J. Gushu — —

Khor Shugalu (Khor Befar) ¾ 119¾ Large khor with high steep banks, sandy bed. Good water plentiful; much cultivation along banks, including onions, water-melons, &c.

After crossing khor, ground rather uneven and grass and bush rather thick, until you get close to J. Kirin. Open ground along its base.

Kirin (Sheikh Hamed’s House) 1½ 121¼ Tukls scattered all round the jebel, but most of the big men seem to live close to this place.

Open ground at base of hill, and very good place for camp at present, but might be wet during rainy season. Water taken from wells in sand about ¼ mile away, rather muddy, and of a thick white colour like milk. Supply scanty at present, and our party finally took their water from Khor Shugalu. Inhabitants most friendly. Sheep, pigs, chickens, eggs, and dura in overwhelming quantities, were sent as presents. Onions and milk (goats) can be obtained, but supply is limited.

People are ready to sell for gold (native, in rings), beads, soap, old bottles, tins, &c. Beads (blue or red) seem to be the chief thing required. Salt is also good. We got rid of a few fasses, but iron does not seem to be in request. Spear heads are no good. Cloth of the most brilliant colours possible would probably also go well. Sheikh Hamed has large stores of dura in tukls on the hill, and sold it to us at 3 gold rings (each worth about 45 piastres) the ardeb. There is a small quantity of semsem (5 rings the ardeb) and lubia.

From Kirin the road runs straight on nearly due south. Some bad rocky places, until the spurs of the mountain are all left behind, the road then level and fairly good, passing through bush of varying thickness, but with very little thorn in it, and patches of bamboo along the banks of the khors.

133.—KIRIN to KODOK.

By Major C. W. Gwynn, April, 1903.

A mixed Hamla—mules, donkeys and camels—was taken from Kirin to Kodok, April, 1903.

No rain had fallen, but more water was found in the neighbouring country than in previous years, so that conditions of water may be assumed normal for middle of dry season, but more favourable than usual for extreme end of dry season.

There was no recognised track, and no guides could be obtained from Kirin, nor would it have been possible to obtain Dinka guides to make the journey in the reverse direction.

The route followed is not necessarily the best, as probably deflections were made by guides owing to inter-village fighting or for other reasons.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Kirin — — From Kirin there are several tracks leading west to the farm village belonging to Ahmed Wad Yimr.

Khor Yabus at junction with Khor Serekoli 13 13 Water is obtainable at several places, vide Map.

The Khor Yabus known to the Gallas as Ayaya, and to the Khomas as Kizi, is a strong flowing stream 40 feet wide and 1 foot deep, rocky bottom and wooded banks. Soil in neighbourhood mostly sandy and firm. Stream full of fish, which many Kirin people come to catch and dry. Fishing places do not extend more than 20 miles west of Kirin.

As I had been told the Khor Yabus took a sharp bend S. after clearing the hills I chose the left bank, so as to avoid missing the turn. The ground near the khor was stony and broken by side khors, so marched well clear of stream. Ground firm and bush not thick enough to be an obstacle. If grass had not been burnt going would have been difficult.

Khor Mia 13 26 Went to Yabus for water at its junction with a large khor (probably Khor Mia), coming from the Khoma mountains. The character of the Yabus had changed, and now ran over a level sandy bed, water 6 inches deep, banks cotton soil, marshy and high grass jungle. Country on either side almost entirely open, but large trees by the khor. Country from this point to the beginning of Burun villages swarms with game—buffalo and elephant. Hunting parties from Kirin, with rifles, constantly about.

Khor 5 31 Kept clear of banks of khor again, which were swampy and had thick jungle in places. Country away from river open and slightly undulating.

J. Belshingi and Jebel Belatoma 1 32 Cotton soil, but fair going. Khor passes between Jebel Belshingi on N. bank and J. Belatoma on S. A rocky outlying knoll of latter close to stream gives a fair camping ground at its base. A wide marshy khor comes from the south just before reaching this knoll.

Knoll 3 35 The Yabus winds round the south end of J. Belshingi and spreads out into two marshy lakes, a small rocky knoll forming the extreme south end of J. Belshingi (though on opposite side of khor) lying between the lakes.

The north bank of Yabus is wooded, but country to south is open. Bed of stream winds through wide marshy belt. Skirting the marsh, game tracks gave good going.

Village (deserted) (?) Mago 4 39 First Burun village was deserted. Found it had been raided by Kirin people two months before, and Sheikh Digga had been killed. Village had evidently been occupied since. From this village found a good track, and, after 3 miles, bush became thick; many dom palms.

N’yunka 4 43 N’yunka, a collection of villages among dom thickets. No men at first to be seen, but surprised some women who shortly induced men to appear. Latter very frightened at first. All armed with long bows, wooden pointed featherless arrows and generally a spear, and quite naked.

Yabus crossing 9 52 A good track ran through wooded country S. of the Yabus, passing the villages of Toma, N’dinga, Bane Bugga, Ote, Onka and the villages of Sheikh Washa. At these latter crossed the Yabus, which from this point turns S.W. The Buruns could not give me any clear account of where it went to, but thought it discharged into Sobat. I believe it opens out into a swampy lake which also receives the Sonka, and part of the water from this may make its way to the Sobat near Nasser and part into the Khor Adar. When last seen there was a good flow of water. The country to S.W. appeared to be thickly wooded, and I could not ascertain to what extent it was inhabited.

Track continued to be good, and passed through villages of Kanje and Loma, almost deserted owing to distance from Walu to Bangaia.

Bangaia 7 59 Hafirs. The village is small and the hafirs are in a marshy overflow from a khor ½ mile S.E. of village. These Burun hafirs are generally dug in marshy spots, and sometimes are merely reservoirs, sometimes really gammams. They are carefully covered in with sticks, and grass and water is generally clean and good. At Bangaia very good and plentiful.

Tuer 3 62 Small village with hafir—several deserted villages between it and Bangaia.

Beio 5½ 67½ Track good, country fairly open. Small village.

Hillock 1 68½ Very small hillock with few huts.

Kyela 2½ 71 Kyela is a group of several villages with wide track of cultivation. Inhabitants gone away for water.

After 4 miles track ceases, and guides took us N.W., avoiding a piece of badly broken cotton soil.

K. Yungen 9 80 Lot of giraffe and ostrich. A gammam with some very bad water in Khor Yungen.

Nyeda 3 83 Nyeda, a village with 300 to 400 people on Khor Murga (probably the same as Khor Yungen). Poor water in gammams in khor. These are 6 feet deep and fill slowly; barely gave water enough for 50 animals and 50 men.

From here a good number of people know a little Arabic or Dinka. The Sheikh is Dar El Sagia, and he has been fighting with the surrounding villages.

The whole district is called Dar El Imam and was under a Sheikh called Wad Regab Wad Ali. This man was murdered some four years ago, and Dar El Sagia claims to be his successor, but is not recognised by most of the villages. This is about the limit of the raiding of the Beni Shangul people.

Khor Murga is said to be a branch of the big khor which formed from the khors between Jebel Kurmuk and Jebel Fanagamenta, passes close to J. Jumjum under the name of Khor Tumbakh.

J. Jumjum lies south of J. Mofwa and is the southern limit of Idris Wad Regab’s influence at present. Khor Tumbakh appears to split up into branches, and one probably reaches Khor Adar near Rengachuk.

Hafirs 4 87 Two good hafirs. Track bad over broken cotton soil.

Nyeda (Sh. Tukani) camp 8 95 After passing hafirs track becomes very good and goes through a number of villages whose inhabitants had gone to water. About two miles short of camp entered on a wide stretch of cultivation, cotton soil. Scattered villages. No defined khor, but probably the whole under water in the rains from overflow of Khor Tumbakh. There were many gammams, but water very bad and muddy.

Dinko Wad Dageig 7 102 Bad going over cotton soil. Dinko Wad Dageig was last Burun village. It is situated in a grove of dom palms, dry sandy soil. Water from gammam 10 feet deep, plentiful and good. This village is in about 10° 10′ and 30° 10′ E.

Tibn 13 115 There is no defined track west of this, but hunting parties frequently go to El Tame. Passed over open country; cotton soil, rather rough going. Passed the Debba of Tibn lying ¼ mile to right just before entering a track of park land; heglig trees.

Tibn was the most outlying of the Dinka villages, but had been deserted since the beginning of the Mahdia. Water used to be stored in hafirs, but now none.

A second debba was seen about four miles further W.

El Tame 10 125 Heglig trees last for eight miles, and cotton soil is bad. El Tame is a marshy lake, or rather two large pools in a khor, which, however, does not appear to connect to anything.

Water is plentiful, but muddy and fouled by game. There are no trees or anything to mark the position of the water except flocks of birds. Game very abundant, and both Buruns and Dinkas come to hunt. The latter are very much afraid of the Buruns.

Khor Adar 15 140 Kept S.W. for 15 miles. Cotton soil and fairly good going; country generally open with a few clumps of heglig. Struck Khor Adar at some feriks belonging to Sheikh Wal Awal at about the point where Captain Wilson’s reconnaissance ended. This point is about 40 miles due east of Kodok. The Dinkas, however, in going to Kodok always follow the Khor Adar to Rengachuk and thence across to the Nile at Mialek, which makes a journey at least 20 miles longer and involves several crossings of the Khor Adar.

Kodok 60 (?) 200 (?)

134.—KHOR BOSUK[43], viâ KHOR EINE to GOHA.

By Major G. de H. Smith, February, 1904.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Camp (Khor Bosuk) — —

Cavalry Camp (Khor Bosuk) 12 12 The road runs along the foot of the N. slopes of J. Beldoesu; a new road now made along other side of valley and along course of stream which is much better going.

From Cavalry Camp, where there is a lot of water (running in khor), the road goes up a slope up the Shanendo valley, also called Fanishuman (name of old village). The ascent up the valley is easy at first, but afterwards up steep slopes with rocks. Water is met with twice on way up—at one place a running stream. There is a bad bit of road just at this stream, difficult even to make it safe for horses and mules. For camels the road would require zigzaging and grading. There are flat places on the tops of the spurs where halts can be made.

Khor Eine 7 19 From top of pass the road goes along the plateau in an easterly direction till Khor Eine is reached, where there is a flowing stream, good shade and grazing, and camping ground.

Camp at Goha 3 22 From Khor Eine good road round spur leads into Goha, about 2 miles before reaching which road branches off to Asosa, going in a southerly direction. The tukls are on the foot of slope of J. Goha and also all over the top of the hill. J. Goha is a series of broken, rocky hills, and is in reality a spur projecting from the higher plateau.

There is a fair amount of cultivation in patches in the open valley. There is a running stream at foot of Goha Hill on N. side, which is fed by many tributaries, most of which contain running water. There is a good camping ground across this stream on low hills facing the lower N. slopes of J. Goha, water and grazing plentiful. Supplies of dura apparently got from Asosa. There were only about 20 cattle to be seen, and no sign of any trade going on or Gallabas about. This may be due to the disturbed state of the country and the roads being closed.

(Note.—A small party of cavalry marched along this road at the rate of 3 to 4 miles per hour.)

135.—GOHA, viâ K. BARSU to BOSUK.

By Major G. de H. Smith, February, 1904.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Camp Goha — — Left Camp Goha in a north-westerly direction—road leads across the plateau and crosses some khors. This is a good road and apparently much used by Gallabas, as their camping places at intervals on the khors were passed—where there is the usual pool or trickling stream. The road comes to top of pass marked 4,670 feet. From here an extensive view is obtained of Dul, J. Jerok, etc.

The descent of the pass is steep, although the road is well defined. There is only one real good halting place on a spur before descending into the Barsu valley.

K. Barsu 9 14 The road crosses the khor at a conspicuous Gemmeiza tree where there is water in small quantities. Further on the stream runs in places and disappears again. A good camping ground is reached a 5 hours from camp at Goha which is used by Gallabas.

Camp Khor Bosuk 8 22 The road leads along the khor, water running at intervals of 45 minutes; from this point the roads separate to Dul Jerok and towards Mindok. Taking the last one khor under J. Agadi is reached—good grazing and water here, and vegetables cultivated—from here camp Bosuk is one hour and half along the broken ground at foot of slopes of the Beldoesu valley.

(Note.—A small party of Cavalry marched along this route at an average rate of 2¾ miles per hour.)

136.—CAMP ON KHOR BOSUK[44] to ASOSA.

By Major G. de H. Smith, March, 1904.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Camp Khor Bosuk — — The road runs along the foot of the N. slopes of J. Beldoesu. A new road has now been made along the other side of valley and along course of stream, which is much better going.

Cavalry Camp (Khor Bosuk) 12 12 From Cavalry Camp, where there is a lot of water (running in khor). The road goes up a slope up the Shanendo valley, also called Fanishuman (name of old villages). The ascent up the valley is easy at first, afterwards up steep slopes with rocks. Water is met with twice on way up, at one place a running stream. There is a bad bit of road just at this stream, difficult even to make it safe for horses and mules. For camels the road would require zigzaging and grading. There are flat places on the top of the spurs where halts can be made.

Khor Eine 7 19 From top of pass the road goes along the plateau in an easterly direction till Khor Eine is reached, where there is a flowing stream, good shade, grazing and camping ground.

Khor Afaferi 13 32 From Khor Eine good road round spur into Goha. About 2 miles out on this road Goha-Asosa track strikes it in a southerly direction, goes up parallel to N. slopes of Goha hills, crossing pass on to top of plateau; water-course on N. side of road, water also. Nearly at once cross a khor on top of plateau with water which flows down in direction Khor Zalan. Road rocky in few places, but on whole good. Good camp at Khor Afaferi, 13 miles.

Good road crosses a marsh near Abdel Rahman Wad Khojali’s village, which is passed after 2½ hours’ march. Asosa comes in view across a wide valley which takes over 1 hour to get round; a water course passed. Convenient to water here before going into Asosa, as water some distance off village.

Asosa 15 47 Asosa is a collection of villages on a large spur which is part of the plateau and juts out over a valley.

There are three rocky hills, all with houses on them. People prosperous and well to do. A certain amount of cultivation near, but chief cultivation near a small hill E. of Asosa. Sheikh Hamed apparently a very determined ruler and looks after his people. There is an Abyssinian post here of about 15 to 20 men.

(Note.—A troop of Sudanese regular cavalry and a party of mounted irregulars marched by this route at the rate of 3 miles per hour, forced marching.)

137.—ASOSA to KHOR BOSUK, viâ KHOR SURGALLA AND KHOR ZALAN.

By Major G. de H. Smith, March, 1904.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Asosa — — Leaving Asosa by road to Goha and march for an hour along it. Then branch off W. and drop off plateau on to a succession of small hills, with villages, going along crest of their spurs. A few steep and rocky places in crossing khors—to Khor Dadeferi—running stream with village above it, not much room for camp.

K. Dadeferi 10 10

Ascent out of khor steep to village; steep ascents and descents, passing cultivated clearings and villages (all Hamed’s).

Khor Sirekoli (Surgalla) 8 18 Reach Khor Sirekoli (Surgalla), good running stream, pretty open ground here, good camp, grass plentiful. Road now rises abruptly.

Khor Akori 6 24 Road, after rising abruptly out of valley over hill, goes W., very steep and rocky track. Apparently not been much used lately; passes over low rocky hills, a constant up and down, S. of J. Fanoje and then turns N. along foot of Fanoje hills, crosses Khor Akori, water here by digging, good grass.

Khor Zalan 6 30 After a mile strike Kirin road, along this to Khor Zalan; water plentiful, also grass.

Camp Bosuk 6 36 Go along track for 3 miles, then strike off to W., cross khor with water into camp.

138.—GORE to ABWONG (on SOBAT).

By Captain H. H. Wilson, February to March, 1904.

Note.—The route described in this report, after crossing the Baro at 52½ miles from Gore, follows the left bank of that river as far as Itang, thence the right bank to Nasser, thence the left bank of the Sobat to Abwong. From Gambela, 64½ miles from Gore, the best track westwards lies along the right bank. There is no difficulty in travelling by this route during the driest season, i.e., February to May. Practically no supplies can be relied on.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Gore Gore is described elsewhere. It is surrounded by hills, some of which appear to be of nearly equal height. Country thickly wooded, but being cleared for cultivation.

2½ 2½ Track from here gets bad, going through forest and over a khor, east bank of which is very steep and difficult.

3½ 6 Forest gets very thick and tangled, roots and fallen trees lying across track. Hills very steep.

3 9 Forest gets thinner, and glimpses of Gore can be had. Villages also appear in the open clearings. Some of the rivers hereabouts are bridged, but the bridges are very bad and dangerous for animals, which can in dry season cross by fording.

Rest house 3¼ 12¼ House where travellers generally stop first march out from Gore, or last march in.

1⅛ 13⅜ Rocky river bed to cross. Route for next 6 miles is hilly and thickly wooded; several rivers to cross, mostly with rocky bottoms.

5⅝ 19 Beginning of Bure district; country much more open and thickly populated and cultivated; track much less hilly and wider.

5⅞ 24⅞ Market place on top of a hill; market twice a week.

Ato Melka’s house 4⅝ 29½ Track much better here and hills not difficult, country cleared of trees to great extent and much cultivated.

1 30½ Market place.

Ato Takallé’s house 5⅞ 36⅜ Situated on a hill. River to cross just before reaching it. Takallé is governor of all Bure, and is charged with guarding the pass at Goma, which leads up from the Baro country.

Guard 4 40⅜ Guard house on hill (tukls and a “hosh”). Officer stationed here with about 30 men to guard the pass and report all arrivals and departures to the Ras.

Goma 6 46⅜ Rest houses on the top of pass. Descent for first two miles very difficult, track winding amongst boulders and large rocky slabs. It is necessary to use one’s hands and knees in getting up some of the places.

2⅛ 48½ Enter forest and cross mountain torrent, which would probably be impassable after heavy rains. From here down to the Baro ford is not difficult, though tiring, and, except for one or two bad ravines, loaded animals can get along without much difficulty.

River Baro (ford) 4 52½ Baro Ford spanned by a very ricketty wooden bridge, which is no longer safe. Animals and men cross river-bed in dry season: 3-4 feet of water. Crossing very difficult owing to rocky uneven bottom and strong current, river here being succession of rapids. After crossing Baro, track leaves river and runs round hill, joining river again about 4 miles further on, from whence track follows river more or less closely as far as

Gambela 12 64½ Long scattered district, villages mostly on R. bank; a few small villages hidden in the forest on L. bank, inhabitants of which fled on appearance of Abyssinians. Recognised ferry here, two dug-outs. River, however, fordable for animals (January 14). Thick forest both banks. River full of hippos and crocodiles. Track leaves river here and runs about a mile inland as far as

R. Bonga 1½ 66 10 yards wide, 10 feet banks, and 1 to 2 feet water. Sandy bottom and passage easy. The regular track westwards from Gambela is on R. bank. I, however, followed L. bank to investigate. Gambela is called by the Anuaks Egelo. Track from here very bad, almost nonexisting, it being necessary to hew a way through the jungle in places. Ground very rocky at foot of small hills.

River Ichok 11 77

River Wonkai 1½ 78½

River Wangd Wong 1 79½

River Wanten ¾ 80¼ All above dry (February, 1904). Width from 20 to 50 yards. Sandy bottoms and steep banks. Must be quite impassable after heavy rains, but Anuaks say that they quickly drain off.

Ile de Faidherbe ½ 80¾ Series of rapids and small islands in dry season. Site where steamer was stranded marked by huge stone like a tomb-stone, 10 feet high, on a grass-covered island, which is submerged at high Nile. Anuaks and Abyssinians say the Faidherbe was carried away about three months after being left there, in three pieces, by Joti’s and Tesemma’s men, 200 to 300 men carrying a section on a tree trunk. Traces of broad track cleared for this purpose on river bank noticeable now. Small village right, track on left very bad, runs through long grass and forest to beginning of

Finkio (Penkio) (site of Trading Station) 7¾ 88½ Finkio; natives pronounce it Finkio, not Penkio. Villages, i.e., clusters of huts or homesteads all along river here onwards. Names of villages marked on map are misleading, as the name applies to a district perhaps 10 miles long. A shorter track exists from near Ogara to Itang, but I could not take it, as it was past mid-day, and I had to halt on water. Track on to Itang from Nyokwar very bad, as it follows all bends of river except in one place, and ground is a succession of small deep gullies that are impassable for transport unless ramped, or marched round.

Nyokwar 14½ 103

Ideni 14½ 117½ Beginning of district of Ideni R. and Itang L.

Itang 3 120½ Eastern boundary of Itang Enclave. Sheikh Gelo, brother-in-law of Sheikh Nagor, of Ideni. Gelo is much feared by Anuaks, who approach his presence on all fours. Baro fordable here (February), 2 to 3 feet deep. Fine Gemmeiza trees at Itang, and good forest of fuel trees in vicinity.

Most of these distances will not compare with the map, as there is no regular track on left bank. Owing to swampy nature of country in rains, track continually changes as fresh ground becomes passable and country dries up and gets burnt. Track in places dangerous, as it runs through dense long grass, within a foot of a 10 to 15 feet drop into river. Cows and transport animals fell over this on several occasions.

Ajuoto 1 121½ Track between Itang and Gambela must be followed on right bank, that on left is too bad. Cross river at Itang. One mile on is village, part of district of Pangmala, village being under Sheikha Ajuoto. This village is situated in a dense rubber forest, and the rubber vines are found all along the river in the Anuak country. Nobody collects the rubber. All approaches to this village were closed with thorn “abattis,” owing to the presence of Abyssinians.

1 122½ Cross a small khor, which is sandy and fordable for animals at this point only at this time of year. There is a shorter track, which leaves the Sheikha’s village on the right, but leads to a wide part of the khor, impassable to animals owing to deep mud. Track now runs along edge of dense forest right and broad khor left, with forest beyond.

3 125½ Forest left ceases and khor runs into open plain. Track crosses khor several times; liable to be muddy and difficult.

2 127½ Big khor runs down from forest on right to river, passable only close up to forest.

1 128½ Another big khor to cross, similar to above; mouth of this khor very deep and steep, impassable for animals, which must cross up by forest. Track now inland, 1 to 2 miles from river.

11½ 140 Big khor to cross with lake inland, about 1 mile from river.

Kaich 1 141 Large Nuer village marked as Kaich, but name not recognised. Track from here uniformly good, passing over a broad grass plain which lies beyond the belt of trees that fringe the Baro and the forest further inland. The plain is burnt in January and becomes passable; it is under water during the rains. Several Nuer dry season villages along the plain, but these people all go off in the rains inland; probably a few small villages remain, that are built on small mounds. Game abounds in the forest inland here.

3 144 Track strikes a big khor and runs along N. bank of it for 1½ miles, and then crosses it. Villages dotted all along khor.

2 146 Cross khor again near its junction with river near big round island. River round this island (S. channel) is very rapid and difficult. Villages all along here, track runs inland and passes big village shown on map as Kaig, which name is not recognised. Nuers have mostly left this village since traders arrived.

Kaig 5 151

R. Adura 1 152 Balamkun, or Kwemnum, eastern junction of Adura with Baro. Adura mouth dry (2nd January), but water in large reach further along. Good gemmeiza trees all along Baro up to here for last few miles, but no trees met with after this until Ajungmir (mile 216).

K. Chaich 4½ 156½ Khor Chaich, not shown on map.

R. Baitiok 3⅞ 160⅜ Khor Baitiok dry (February), 10 yards wide, shallow; track has followed this khor for last three miles.

K. Jokau ½ 160⅞ Khor Jokau, 2 to 2½ feet of water, very strong current, waterway 20 feet wide. Natives all say that this is the only mouth of Garre and that Khor Machar does not communicate with Garre. Villages of Baitiok, or Chanchai opposite on left bank. Cultivation—both banks and huts. These Nuers come from Garjak where their wet-season villages are.

3 163⅞ Big shallow khor, full of weeds but nearly dry. Track all along here is excellent, several miles inland from river; burnt grass plain.

Kwe 6¾ 170⅝ Large winter village of Nuers, Kwe; very friendly; track now descends to the river at

K. Machar 3 173⅝ Only a winter (dry season) residence; groups of these temporary villages are dotted about. Khor Machar dried up. Natives say it does not discharge water, but only fills up from the Baro. The mouth of Khor Machar is much bigger than that of Jokau.

5⅝ 179¼ Big khor runs E. and W. with water in it. There is no track here at all (February, 1904), and way had to be forced through jungle of rank unburnt grass.

Kamkiri (E.) 6⅞ 186⅛ E. end of island of Kamkiri. Village ¾ mile inland. River called Mainyal; only temporary. Distances from Machar are probably all too long, owing to winding about through the grass; under similar circumstances however they will not be found to be much less.

Kamkiri (W.) 3½ 189⅝ W. end of island of Kamkiri. Not a tree visible anywhere, and no shade available. Grass unburnt (21st February), and going very difficult.

10½ 200⅛ Khor with half a foot of water in it.

K. Loinkildom 4¼ 204⅜ Khor muddy, steep banks, probably that shown on map as Loinkildom, which name was not recognised.

¼ 204⅝ Another khor similar to above.

K. Makeir ⅝ 205¼ Khor Makeir and village right, very big khor, 15 feet deep, 40 to 50 yards. Wide sandy bottom, dry and passable in places (February). Water in deep pools.

6 211¼ Going as bad as before. Thin bush starts right.

1¾ 213 Khor with water in it; muddy bottom, 3 feet wide, 3 feet deep.

K. Nyakol 2 215 Ten yards wide, 6 feet deep, 3 feet of water with mud; very perpendicular banks; this was a very bad obstacle, even the saddles having to be taken off mules’ backs (February 22).

Ajungmir 1½ 216½ Village on right bank, trees near.

3¼ 219¾ Track cuts across corner and strikes river again at

Nyariau 1¾ 221½ Village of Nyariau, in 3 parts; 1 small part on bank of river, and 1 large and 1 small about 10 yards inland. Track runs inland through bush and forest, and strikes river at mile

2 223½ Very thick gemmeiza trees left bank, bush right. River fordable here (February, 1904).

3⅛ 226⅝ Beginning of Anuak, part of Taufot, right bank. Track cuts across here to

Taufot 1¼ 227⅞ Taufot (Nuer), very big compact village; stands back. Latest map shows big island near Taufot, but it is non-existent.

Khor Wakau 2¼ 230⅛ Thirty yards wide at mouth, but opens out to nearer 150 yards higher up. Muddy bottom; 20 feet deep in rains, 3 to 5 feet in dry season. Big village of Kadbeg short way up Wakau.

Nasser 3 233⅛ Nasser left, Kwoinlualtong, right bank, for the last 2 miles upstream from Nasser. River not fordable here (February), but animals swam over at lower end of island, opposite Nasser, without difficulty.

1 234⅛ Track enters forest (heglig and talh), track bad; cracked cotton soil.

Tolor 5 239⅛ Khor and fishing village of Tolor; khor 60 yards wide, and 3 to 5 feet deep, muddy. Track follows khor down right bank, and crosses it at junction with river at mile

2¼ 241⅜ Crossing 3 feet deep, artificial channel for catching fish. Track now follows river for 1½ miles, then cuts across corner for Manajok.

3⅝ 245 Khor with 2 feet of water in it; good crossing.

Manajok 2⅞ 247⅞ Manajok, Nuer part of village; swamp between village and river, few trees.

¼ 248⅛ Anuak part of village on bank, good Meshra, thin bush behind.

Nyakoik 1⅝ 249¾

⅜ 250⅛ Thin heglig forest. Huts all along from Nyakoik.

Tuargai ⅝ 250¾

Shillup 6½ 257¼ Good heglig forest left most of the way, and plenty of shade trees, though none shown on map. A khor 3 feet deep, just before reaching Shillup. Track follows river till

Nyanglang 2⅝ 259⅞ And then cuts across corner through forest to Fauwel.

Fauwel 2¼ 262⅛ Large scattered village, running back into the woods; good shade trees and meshra and camping ground. Track all along bank.

K. Nyandieng 2⅞ 265 Very broad mouth, 1½ miles wide; main discharge about 1 mile further on, deep and artificially deepened for fishing; crossed by two rough bridges. This khor is said to connect with Nerol (Khor Filus). Some Nuers say it does, and some not.

Manchom 3⅝ 268⅝ Shown on map as Sholwaga.

Shwol 3 271⅝ Shown on map as Fugah. Track from here on edge of forest, swamp between it and river.

Gaiyat 2⅛ 273¾ Shown on map as Abong. Nuers would not accept three names above as per map. A lot of these Nuer and Anuak villages have two or more names, and people who use one name pretend not to know other.

Patiyam 2 275¾ Thick forest behind swamp; few good shade trees on bank. Track runs along edge of forest some distance from river.

Gohinya 3¼ 279 Scattered village hidden in forest.

Fanyang 3 282 Scattered village in heglig forest. Track from here runs over dry swamp. A track exists at certain seasons of the year, generally when grass is burnt, from Nyangdeng to near Fanyang, saving a big round by the river. A track also exists from Fanyang to Wigin in a direct line, but was reported to be still choked with grass (3rd March, 1904).

Malwal 3¾ 285¾ Track leaves river within sight of Malwal, then runs through long grass to near Fedwil, then along edge of khor and through bush to

Wigin 4⅛ 289⅞ Small village 20 yards back from river, with deep swamp between village and bank (dry marsh), 2 poor shade trees in village. Track gets on to river bank at 291st mile.

1⅛ 291 Good shade trees and thick bush; thick forest right bank ½ mile inland; end of Nuer country, though all along from Nasser the country is populated with Nuers and Anuaks mixed, Nuers predominating and letting Anuaks live on suffrance. From here onwards path is through bush to

Shwai 1 292 Long scattered Anuak village.

Fatiwanyang 4 296 In thick bush. From here to Yakwoik broad swamp between bush and river. Track in dry season runs over swamp.

2⅝ 298⅝ Khor with 2 feet water; several other khors to cross, marching along this swamp.

Yakwoik 3 301⅝ Anuak village on river bank. No bush, only grass plain round village.

1½ 303⅛ Junction of road that cuts across to Gnok with river track. Good meshra at junction; thick bush left. Bush and few trees right. One mile inland. From here track cuts across country to a debba on the river (Debba Dishin), where Yuzb. Abdel Rahim Eff. Nur El Gawab was buried in 1902, having died on the way to Nasser. From here track follows river, crossing two khors.

Debba Dishin 13 316⅛

Abwong[45] 6⅝ 322¾ A very big and important khor flows into the Sobat at Abwong, called Wangnait; this runs inland past Fanathiang, and is said to join khor Filus at Nerol. Two feet of water in Wangnait (March, 1904), and running water. Abwong on sandy ground, good meshra; upstream limit of Dinka country. Serut flies were very bad, all through the thick bush country from Fauwel to Yakwoik.

139.—GONDOKORO to UGANDA (and MOMBASA).

(Compiled by the Editor.)