Volume 2 — APPENDIX.

(Routes partly outside the Sudan.)

122.—THE ARBAÏN ROAD.

(Compiled by the Editor.)

The “forty days” road leads S.S.W. across the desert from Assiut, in Upper Egypt, viâ the oases of Kharga, Beris, Sheb, Selima, Lagia, and Bir El Sultan to El Fasher capital of Darfur. It was formerly in considerable use for bringing slave caravans, &c., from the Sudan, and is still used in parts to a limited extent by natron caravans, occasional smugglers, and others. It is, however, now practically deserted.

In the summer of 1884 a reconnaissance was made by Lt.-Col. Colvile and Lieut. Stuart-Wortley from Assiut to Lagia, in order to find out whether the forces of the Mahdi could penetrate into Egypt by this road. The result of the patrol was satisfactory, and demonstrated that, owing to the paucity of water on the road, it would be quite impossible for a force of any size to traverse it.

The total length of the Darb El Arbaïn, from Assiut to El Fasher, is certainly not less than one thousand (1,000) miles. To cover this stretch in forty days would appear to necessitate particularly excellent camels, but the following is the normal time taken, according to native report:—

Place. Marching Days. Rest Days. Total No. of Days.

Assiut — — —

El Kharga 4 1 5

Beris 1½ 1 2½

El Murra 3 — 3

El Kassaba 1½ 1 2½

Sheb 1 1 2

Selima 2 2 4

El Lagia 4 1 5

Natron Wells, Bir Sultan 5 1 6

J. Anka or Meidob 7 — 7

El Fasher 3 — 3

Total 32 8 40

A day’s journey in summer lasts from El Asr (two hours before sunset) till one hour after sunrise; and in winter from sunrise till three hours after sunset.

Description.

The only points south of Kharga which have been astronomically fixed in modern times are Kassaba and Sheb (Talbot, 1903), and therefore the distances between the main points given below must be considered more or less approximate. The road is hardly defined at all throughout its length, and variations occur at different points. A road also joins the Arbaïn from Mut (Dakhla Oasis) at Terfawi (five days).

On no account should an intending traveller move without reliable guides, who may usually be obtained, or heard of, at Assiut.

(a.)—ASSIUT, viâ KHARGA, to BERIS and MAKS.

(“Kharga Oasis: its topography and Geology,” by John Ball, 1899, Public Works Department, Cairo, pp. 20, 44-60, &c.; Captain Lyons, R.E., February, 1894, &c.)

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Assiut — — Leave Assiut on the S., turn to W., through cemeteries, and along the the foot of the scarp.

5 5 Road winds up limestone cliff 470 feet. A few miles over broken ground brings one on to nearly level limestone desert, with no hindrance in any direction. Road runs generally S. over flat limestone; nothing of any interest till the road dips into the great hollow of the oasis.

82 87

Ein Karam Mohammed 13 100 First water at Ein Karam. See book above-mentioned for maps and full description of the great Oasis of Kharga, which lies in a dip over 100 miles long and 20 miles wide, running N. and S. About 120 wells and 10 villages or districts; population about 8,000; 4,500 feddans of cultivated ground, and about 60,000 palm trees. The oasis includes the villages of Bulak (third largest village), Beris (second largest village), attacked by Dervishes in 1893, and Maks (Bahari and Gibli). The road now strikes again S. into the desert.

Kharga 26 126

Bulak 15 141

Beris 39 180

Maks 9 189

(b.)—MAKS, viâ MURRA, KASSABA and SHEB, to SELIMA.

(Lieut.-Col. Colvile, July, 1884; Captain Lyons, February, 1894; Officers Egyptian Army, Spring of 1894, &c.)

Place. Miles. Hours (Inter-mediate). Description.

Inter-mediate. Total from Assiut.

H. M.

Maks, from Assiut — 189 —

Kasr Argi or Ein El Kasr 2 191 0 35 A small rocky mound, with a ruin; near it is a good spring. Another mound, with spring and ruin, also bears the same name.

Garid Abu Baian 11 202 3 17 A rocky granite hill, about 150 feet high, on E. of road. The road, which up to this point has been along a broad, shallow valley, with a bed of firm gravel, now enters for a few miles hills of very deep sand, across which there is no track.

J. Wagif (J. Harif) 26½ 228½ 9 0 Meaning “stopping place.” A solitary mound of rock 80 feet high. It appears to have been used as a signal station, there being remains of a fire on the summit. Stone roadmarks and several graves. One day trotting from here to either Beris or Bir Murr.

Jebel Mishersha (Um Shersha) 8 236½ — Shersha = Xerxes. Ancient Persian outpost, possibly water. Long, low cliff on E. of road. Small hillocks 4 miles further on, close to road and opposite S. end of Shersha, are called Gara El Maghatia.

Jebel El Magazan 11 247½ — Hillock on road where merchandise used to be left.

El Garun 11½ 259 — Two little knolls; a road to S.W. branches off to Darfur, according to Arabs.

Three miles further on begins a low limestone plateau, which extends up to and beyond Bir Murra. This limestone is the only landmark for the wells, as no high hills are visible near.

Bir Murra 7 266 16 15 Two large holes, each 3 to 4 feet deep. Plenty of water, rather salt, but camels will drink it. Jebel el Murra is a narrow, ridge-shaped hill, 80 feet high, overlooking the wells. Colvile says:—“It is a promontory 3 miles N. of the wells, and running out of the low range of hills on the E. of the road. It is easily to be recognised by a conical rock, balanced on its apex, on the top of a small mound.”

Kassaba 67 333 25 10 A group of dom palms, water 7 feet down, bitter and nitrous. Approach from N. by a narrow gorge down the sandstone cliff (120 feet high), which bounds the wells also on the W.; E, and S. the ground is open.

From Kassaba a road leads in a S.E. direction over ridges for 25 miles to the wells of Nakhla, whence the road continues for a further 79 miles to the Nile, opposite Halfa.

(Nakhla) — — — Nakhla or Saafi, is so termed from a palm tree on a small, sandy, grass knoll which overlooks the wells. Surrounding this knoll is a narrow valley, about 80 yards broad, to the E. and S. Throughout this valley water can be obtained by digging at a depth of from 3½ to 5 feet. The water does not run in very rapidly, but the earth is so light that the well can be dug very rapidly, filling to about 9 inches in six hours; water good and abundant (February). In the S. there is rising ground with a slight command. To the E. the ground rises slightly, but is lower than the date palm hill. To the N.E. there is a lofty sand hill, at a distance from the date palm hill of over 1,200 yards.

Blockhouse, built 1894 (now unoccupied).

(The Sheb District) — — — Kassaba forms the apex of the triangular Sheb district, which holds numerous wells, the names of which are often confused. The western side of the triangle is formed by a range of sandstone cliffs, running S.W., along the base of which the Arbaïn road continues from Kassaba to Sheb. The base of the triangle is the road from Sheb to Nakhla, and the centre is an open plain.

Shebba[36] (or Abu Dom?) 15 348 6 5 A district covered with low sand hills, and studded with dom palms. Water is said to be obtainable by digging in most parts of it; that at the N. end is bad. A well at the southern end gives a good and plentiful supply. There are three patches of camel grazing in the district, each patch being about sufficient for 400 camels for one day. From here a road branches off gradually to the S.W. to the wells of Terfawi (Id Koraim, or Abu Taraf), 8 miles on, lying in a broad valley, under the cliff above mentioned. Good water 3 feet below the surface. Forty old palms and numerous smaller ones, and two dom palms, no grazing. This Terfawi road is often used as an alternative branch of the Arbaïn road, and rejoins it further S. Terfawi to Beris is reckoned at five days. There appears to be a direct road from Terfawi to Lagia, five days over level ground covered with stones.

Terfawi — — —

Sheb 10 358 — A blockhouse was built here in 1894 to guard against raids by the Dervishes, and was attacked on Jan. 8, 1895. Water slightly brackish, but plenty of it; a little grazing. Road from here N.W. to Terfawi, 5½ miles. Road E. to Nakhla, 40 miles, contains wells or underground water at El Haad, 5, Sederi, 5, Bir Suleiman, 13, and Bir Hasab el Gabu, 9 miles intermediate. From Sheb the roads lead S., over easy ground for the most part, to the oasis of Selima.

Selima 82 440 27 45 Named after a legendary Amazon Princess (?). A small oasis, commanded on all sides by rocky hills, those on the N. being considerably higher and steeper. The water, obtained from numerous wells about 2 feet deep, is sufficient for a force of 1,000 men. It has a strong sulphurous taste and smell. The oasis is uninhabited, but is occasionally visited by the neighbouring tribes for the sake of the salt and dates which are found there. The salt lies in beds covered by 1 to 3 feet of sand, and has to be broken out.

There are some 2,000 fruit-bearing date palms, but these are at present choked in a thick undergrowth. Dates very good.

There is plenty of grazing.

From Selima a road leads in a S.E. direction for 80 miles to Sagiet El Abd, on the Nile. No water on the way.

For further description of this oasis, vide Part I., Chap. IX., pp. 202-3.

(c.)—SELIMA to LAGIA.

(Lieut. Stuart Wortley, July, 1884; Captain H. Hodgson, 1901, 1903, &c.)

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total from Assiut.

Selima, from Assiut — 440 On leaving Selima the track, well defined by camel skeletons, goes in a westerly direction for 6 miles over hard sand, after which it turns S.W.; small conical hills to W. for 30 miles. Occasional camel skeletons, but no track. Succession of rocky ridges.

33 473 High conical hill to W. Extensive view. All hills crossed are steep on the N. side, and slope gradually to the S. (This is reversed at Selima and Lagia.) Going rocky and bad.

J. Hadada and J. Hamadia 24 497 Pass between these two hills, J. Hadada to the E. Low ranges of hills, running S.E. and N.W.

40 537 Descend into hard sandy plain, extending for 20 miles. Country then becomes very rocky and difficult for camels; no track discernible. Range of sand hills to W. called J. Ruhilat.

J. Gabra, a round-topped hill, rising out of valley called Lagia, seen from a distance of 35 miles. Road descends by a gorge of deep sand into the valley 10 miles long and 1 mile broad, running E. and W.

Lagia (Kebir) 43 580[37] Water about 4 miles from the gorge. Three wells filled with sand water, water has to be cleared, or fresh well opened, otherwise it gets bad. Water good in itself. No vegetation; water 6 feet below surface; country barren; petrified wood abundant. Several tracks cross here.

Captain Hodgson states:—

At Lagia Kebir, or Agar, are five or six pans of water, good and near the surface, springing from similar soil to Lagia the Less, but not so abundant. The wells lie in an open plain, no vegetation near except about six or ten small trees about 3½ miles to W., giving a little feeding for camels. To the N. the plain is shut in by a steep rocky ridge of hills, and the road to Selima Wells lies across it. On reaching summit of ridge there is only a stretch of rock and stones to be seen. Arabs state it is the road to Selima and there is no grazing.

In the event of not finding a water pan open, the water lies some 20 yards S. of a low clump of date seedlings, the only ones in the valley. There are some black rocks in the plain, on the track from Bir Sultan, which lie 2,700 yards (by range-finder) from the abovementioned dates, and at an angle of 228° from them.

(Lagia Amran) — — Lagia the Less, lying 12½ miles E.S.E. of Lagia Kebir, also called Amran from the colour of the ground, lies in a plain about 5 miles wide, surrounded entirely by rocky hills; there are only two entrances through encircling hills that are easy marching. Water lies within a foot of the surface and is very plentiful; ground consists of red clay with drifts of sand, the Arabs say there was formerly no sand, and that during the last few years it is gradually covering the ground, probably owing to dry seasons.

(Lagia bil Hêt) — — Some bushes half a mile from the water. At a distance of one day’s journey to the E. of Lagia there is said to be a well, called Lagia bil Hêt, on account of a Roman wall built close by (?) (Omar et Tunsi).

To the S. the road to Bir Sultan lies across an open plain and is easy going. The tracks spread considerably.

An oasis is reported to lie 4 days’ journey in a S.W. direction, containing date trees, which is visited at date harvest time by the Bedai tribe. The water is said to be bad. Except for the above, the guides say they have no knowledge of any water to the W. of Lagia, and that there is no road with a direction of N. and S. lying to the W. of Lagia. The road Lagia Kebir to Dongola is 166 miles in a S.E. direction: 7 days’ march.

(d.) LAGIA, viâ BIR SULTAN, to EL FASHER.

Captain H. Hodgson, Browne, and Natives.

Very little is known of this, the southern half of the Arbaïn road, and no European (since Browne, 1793, who left no record of any value) seems ever to have traversed it south of Bir Sultan.

From Lagia to Bir Sultan is 5[38] days’ going over easy country.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total from Assiut.

Lagia — 580 On leaving Lagia the going is fair.

47 627 Low rocky mounds; dozens of empty paraffin tins lying about; place where caravans leave store and forage. Easy going, hard sand.

35 662 Sand dunes to E. of track, continue for 5 miles. Road slopes slightly down hill, direction 210°.

37 699 Large black stone 10 feet high by roadside, 18 inches wide and 9 inches thick. Landmark visible for long way from N. Marching becomes difficult.

10 709 Low hill, distinctive landmark; black rock with white gypsum top, with pile of black rocks on top.

J. Kashaf, Bir Sultan 28 737 Hilly rocky country, with gradual descent to J. Kashaf, which lies a short distance N.W. of Bir Sultan.

Bir Sultan, otherwise known as Wadi Natrun (the Natron Valley), Bir el Melha, or Bir Zaghawa, lies in the centre of a plain, bounded by hills to the N.W., N., and E. Three or four pans of good water; ground below the sand being white clay. A little N.W. lie the natron diggings, the natron being in a seam 2 inches deep, a few inches below the sandy surface. One and a half miles E. of the natron is J. Kashaf. Plenty of scrub and grazing. At Melani, under the eastern slope, the soil is quite damp.

Bir Sultan lies 10 days due W. of Old Dongola.

Zaghawa, which is marked on some maps as a definite place, is the name of the district inhabited by the nomad Arab tribe of that name. It is full of khors and wells, and is stated to be 4 days to S.W. of Bir Sultan. There is a little-used track from Lagia which passes through Zaghawa district and proceeds towards El Fasher, but it is not the Arbaïn Road. The Zaghawa people often come to the Bir Sultan.

From Bir Sultan to El Fasher the accounts of the road are contradictory. One account states that it is 10 days hard travelling, without water on the road, and that camels have to be specially trained for the journey. Other accounts say that from Bir Sultan to J. Meidob,[39] or to Bir Maharia (water at either place), the journey takes 4 to 5 days; on to Toma, in the midst of a cultivated populous district, 3 days; and on to El Fasher 1 day more. Another road appears to lead viâ Anka, 7 days from Fasher, and is said to take 15 days altogether; this is the one said to be generally used.

(Browne, in 1793, went from Bir El Melha (Sultan), viâ Medwa (?), S.W. to Wadi Mazruk and then S.E. to Kobe, but left a very meagre description of the actual journey.)

Recapitulation, showing approximate distances and days’ journey.

Place. Miles. Days.

Assiut — —

Kharga 126 5

Bulak 15 ½

Beris 38 1½

Maks 9 ⎱ ⎰ 3

Bir Murra 78

Kassaba 67 2½

Sheb 25 1

Selima 82 3

Lagia 140 5

Bir Sultan 157 6

J. Meidob (J. Anka 270) 190 7

El Fasher (El Fasher 110) 140 5½

1,067 40

123.—ASWAN to DERAHEIB.

Compiled from a Report by Mr. Jennings-Bramly (1902).

N.B.—Distances only approximate, and may be underestimated.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Aswan — — The road from Aswan to the well of Um Habal passes through a country destitute of any vegetation, but the road is well marked, being constantly used by the Eshabab charcoal burners going to Aswan, and the Bisharin, who go to the same market to buy corn.

Bir Um Habal 43 43 The two most marked points are the J. Butitulub, from which the tomb on the hill opposite the Aswan Commandania can be seen, and J. Umsuan on the Demhit range. The distance from Aswan to Bir Um Habal is a good day and a half with hamla. Bir Um Habal had plenty of good water at about 30 feet from the surface in June, but the level varies according to rainfall, though, according to the Arabs, water is never at any great distance from the surface.

From Bir Um Habal the road still lies through the hills, but soon leaving these crosses an open sandy plain, without vegetation of any kind. At the end of the first day after leaving Um Habal the road again winds between small rocky hills. The hills of J. Negib were evidently at one time mined, as there are the remains of old houses and signs of the quartz having been worked in many places.

Bir Negib 55 98 Wadi Negib has a few sayal trees; the water is good and plentiful. Bir Heimer, about 3 hours’ march south, was formerly garrisoned by the Eshabab. There is always water there. The wadis we now passed had always a certain amount of camel fodder, but the grazing would be sufficient only for a small number of animals, and it would be necessary to go some way from the beaten track to find it. Once Jebel Gedir is reached the track runs through small wadis with hilly sides, and soon the Wadi Murra is reached; some way up this wadi there is a well, Bir Murra, which, as its name denotes, is bitter.

Bir Heimer 6 104

Bir Murra 18 122

Ongwat 16 138 Once the Wadi Murra is reached the hills are left behind, and after about 5 miles the Wadi Alagi is reached; the wadi here is nothing but a flat bed of sand held in between low slate hills. The Wadi Ongwat, now followed, is at its junction with the Wadi Alagi profusely grown with handal (Colocynth) plant; but has only a few trees. The well of Ongwat is in the hills of J. Ongwat; it is not more than 3 feet deep, and has plenty of good water.

J. Maksam — — The Bir Ongwat is the boundary between the Eshabab and Aliab tribes, though the well itself belongs to the Eshabab. A road runs from Bir Ongwat to Bir Abu Tabag; but the most direct road to Bir Eigat is straight to J. Maksam, high red granite hills, in which, after rain, much good water can be found. Through one end of the granite hills, before reaching El Deiga, a road runs, joining Heimer and Abu Tabag direct.

The Wadi Alagi is very broad opposite J. Maksam, with only a tree here and there growing in its bed. At times during the rains this part of the wadi is cultivated. El Deiga, a pass through which the Wadi Alagi cuts the small hills at the northern extremity of J. Maksam, is also a boundary between the Eshabab and Eliab. The Wadi Alagi, from El Deiga to Bir Jugub, is bounded by small hills to the south and rather larger to the north. Except for a sayal or selem tree here and there no vegetation is to be found in the wadi.

Jugub 40 178 In the Wadi Jugub there is a well belonging to the Aliab (Kurbeilab), which is sometimes opened according to the pasturage. This wadi had more vegetation than any we had passed up to that time; there were growing besides the ordinary selem a few marakh trees.

From Jugub to Eigat the road leaves the Alagi, passing through low hills to the north. J. Eigat can be seen from Jebel Jugub, and it could also be seen from J. Maksam if that hill were climbed.

Eigat 27 205 There is a continuous line of high hills from Bir Jugub to El Eigat, running nearly parallel with the road at some 5 miles to the north. These were El Jugub, J. Hadaiber, J. Adrak, J. Eigat. The Wadi Eigat is well grown with marakh, heglig, sayal, selem, tundub and usher. It is a great contrast in its greenness to the Wadi Alagi, left the day before. The water at Eigat is near the surface, sometimes running, and at no time in the year more than a few feet down. The well belongs to the Aliab tribe.

There are at Eigat many signs that in olden times the hills were extensively mined. The road from Eigat to Bir Neshd in the Wadi Alagi is bad, but passable, though hamla camels have some trouble in passing.

The easier road, though four or five times longer, is down the Wadi Eigat and then across into the Alagi, which it follows to Neshd. Everywhere among the hills, from Eigat to the Alagi, along the direct road, are signs of old mining colonies. The Alagi here is green with vegetation, the arak grows everywhere, with marakh and heglig, and of course sayal and selem trees.

Neshd 10 215 The well of Neshd, about half a mile up the Wadi Neshd, on the southern side of the Alagi, belongs to the Kurbeilab-Aliab. There is always good water here, but, owing to the rocks, camels cannot approach right up to the well. At Bir Kamotit, which is some half a mile up the wadi, the water is good but rather tainted by the herds that water at it. This well is the property of the Hadl family.

Kamotit 4½ 219½

From Bir Kamotit to the Deraheib the road always follows the Wadi Alagi, which is everywhere well grown with sayal, the bean of which is excellent food for sheep, goats or camels. We saw many traces of the wild donkey, but did not actually see one.

Deraheib 9½ 229 Old mining colony. No well.

124.—KASSALA to MASSAUA.

By Lieutenant H. H. S. Morant (1898); Completed with Material taken from Reports by Colonel Hon. M. G. Talbot (1900) and Mr. F. B. Hohler (1901).

General Description. The road.The general direction of Massaua from Kassala is almost due E. From Sabderat to Keren the Italians have cleared a roadway about 50 feet in width, from which most of the stones and all vegetation, except an occasional large baobab tree, have been cleared. It is so clearly marked that a stranger could march by it even on a dark night. The only point of any difficulty is the low saddle at Bisha, where there was still room for a good deal of work (1900). In its long straight lines it reminds one strongly of the old Roman roads; it crosses ravines and water-courses at whatever angle it happens to strike them, but at many of the steeper ascents and descents narrow ramps have been cut. In several places along it the Italians have made new masonry wells.

The accompanying road report was made before the construction of this newly cleared road—which from Sabderat to Daura Obel passes N. of the old route, viâ Algeden and Eladal—and there is no detailed information at hand as to the water supply along that portion of the route, though there is said to be no difficulty in this respect for the ordinary traveller.

From Keren to Asmara, and thence after many zig-zags to Saati, there is an excellent driving road about 14 feet wide, with the exception of a length of about 6 miles before reaching Azteklezan, which had not (April, 1900) been completed to the full width, but was then practicable for wheeled vehicles. Throughout the length of this metalled road the gradients are occasionally of necessity rather steep; the kilometers are marked throughout.

Country.From Kassala to Keren the general character of the country strongly resembles much of that between Kassala and Suakin, and consists as a rule of level waterless plains of firm soil, at times sandy or gravelly, covered with fine short grass and scattered bushes of the acacia tribe, and intersected here and there by shallow sandy khors, which during the rainy season carry off the drainage from the rocky volcanic hills and granite koppies, which are so characteristic of this particular part of Africa.

From Keren to Massaua the character of the country entirely changes and the waterless plains and thorny acacias of the Kassala-Keren route are replaced by running streams and precipitous mountains, overgrown with euphorbia and wild olives, both on the ascent to the Asmara plateau, as well as in the descent to the maritime plain of Massaua.

Transport animals.For the entire journey mules are most suitable, but as far as Keren camels answer admirably. From Keren to Massaua, viâ Asmara, wheeled vehicles, mules or horses. If the direct desert route from Keren to Massaua be taken, camels are desirable, if not indispensable.

Supplies.Milk, goats, cattle, &c., are found, as elsewhere in the Sudan, throughout the route.

There are occasional small canteens at intervals, and fair stores at Keren, and some good shops at Asmara and Massaua, where most ordinary requirements are obtainable.

Water.If desired to move a force larger than a company along this route, enquiries as to state of water supply should be made, as it varies considerably according to the time of year.

Inhabitants.Speaking generally, the inhabitants between Kassala-Keren are Beni-Amer; after that a bastard type of Abyssinian, &c.

Climate.The climate along this route is on the whole good. Between Kassala-Keren and Ginda-Massaua it is decidedly hot in March, April, and May—probably in other months also. These are also the more feverish portions of the route, though probably no part of it is so unhealthy as Kassala. Between the sea and Agordat there occur in April what the Italians call the “little rains,” which mean very heavy thunder-storms; these cease before the end of the month, and the rainy season proper begins towards the end of May.

The climate on the Asmara plateau is said to be delightful, though perhaps the rains are excessive.

Game.There is little or no game along this route, except between Kassala and Keren, where ariel, gazelle, dig-dig, and guinea fowl may be met with.

Route (January to March).

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Kassala — — Head Quarters of the Kassala Province (fully described in Vol. I). From here the road follows the telegraph line and runs nearly due E. between Jebels Mokrani and Kassala, over a level more or less open plain to Sabderat, the village of which name is situated on the northern side of the gorge, through which flows Khor Tamarat, and is about 1½ miles on the Italian side of the frontier, which is plainly marked by pillars. Here there is a telegraph office and well with a never-failing and plentiful supply of good water.

Sabderat 17 17

Metaui (Algeden) 10 27 From this point a road has been cleared by the Italians which runs nearly perfectly straight to the vicinity of Daura Obel, where it bends to the S., and thence follows the old track. This latter leads from Sabderat to Metaui, where a good well was found (in 1898). The Arabs using the well, however, apparently live at a distance, and were not seen.

Aradeb 12½ 39½ From here the road ascends a col, and high ground continues on the right for about 5 miles, after which the road leads over a level bush-covered plain, and after passing two unimportant detached jebels, a well, named Aradeb, close to the northern end of the second jebel, is reached. Plenty of shade, but very little water (April, 1898). The path continues good over a level plain with scattered bush until Eladal is reached. Here there is a telegraph office, but only one well with extremely little water (April, 1898). Continuing, the track, after crossing a low saddle, traverses a defile with high rocky jebels on either side for about 5 miles, and then, after crossing a wooded basin, ascends a high saddleback, from the summit of which a fine view is obtainable. From here the track descends by a rather steep and rocky pass to the wells of Daura Obel, which lie in the bed of a khor which finds an exit to the S., being shut in on three sides by high ground. After 2 miles this high ground is left behind, and a similar distance further on another khor is crossed, apparently flowing N. It must be somewhere near this point that the new-cleared road previously referred to joins in.

Eladal 12½ 52

Daura Obel 14 66

Bisha 14 80 A level plain, covered with open bush, is now traversed, and after passing between two detached hills, Bisha is reached. Here there is a telegraph office and small village, situated on the side of the hill, about 1½ miles N.E. of the well, where there appeared to be plenty of water (April, 1898). Two miles from the well the road crosses the top of a saddle from which a good view E. and W. is obtainable. The road then descends a stony ravine, about 1 mile in length, and a sign board was passed, pointing S., “To Well”; thence across the usual bush-covered plain to Shaglet, where there are rest tukls and many dom palms. In the khor close by, a tributary of the Baraka, there are several good wells.

Shaglet 12 92

Agordat 14 106 From near Shaglet the hills of Agordat are visible, and after traversing a plain (the scene of the first battle of Agordat) covered with scattered bush and intersected by several khors, the dom palms fringing the Khor Baraka are reached at the foot of the hills (100 feet high?), on which are built the twin fortresses of Agordat. These, however, are both commanded within artillery range from the S. There are one or more wells with any amount of good water to which there is a covered way from the main fort. Population 8,000. But few stores can be purchased here. The climate is hot and considered unhealthy, though it is the only station in the colony, except perhaps Massawa, that can be compared with Kassala in that respect.

Adarte 17 123 The road now crosses the sandy bed of the Khor Baraka and traverses an undulating, tolerably open plain (the scene of the second fight with the Dervishes), and recrossing the Baraka about 7 miles further on continues up its valley to Adarte, where there are wells with rather a meagre water supply. From here the path continues up the scattered bush-covered valley of a tributary of the Baraka, until Agat is reached; here there are several wells, and water seems plentiful. After leaving Agat, the valley narrows considerably, though the plain which bears slight indications of cultivation (the first seen since leaving Kassala) continues level until reaching the foot of the somewhat steep ascent to the plateau (4,470 feet approx.) on which the fortress and town of Keren are situated. This of course belonged to Egypt in the old days, and was then known as Senhit, from the name of a small village still existing. The fort, which is built on a detached hill about 150 feet high, contains a well, but is itself commanded by the hills to the S. and S.W. within comparatively easy artillery range.

Agat 10 133

Keren 11 144

The water supply is good, but fuel is scarce in the immediate neighbourhood. There is a rather large market, some good stores, canteens, Post and Telegraph Office, &c. The climate here is comparatively cool and healthy.

After quitting Keren, the general character of the country changes almost at once, and a series of precipitous hills and mountains, with perennial streams, are encountered.

Khor Anseba 6½ 150½ The best route to Massaua is that by the new metalled coach road viâ Asmara. This road, after traversing undulating country for about 8½ miles crosses the bed of the Khor Anseba, in which are pools during most of the dry season.

From here there is an almost continuous ascent till reaching Azteklesan.

Halibaret 6½ 157 Six and a half miles further on the narrow stream of Halibaret is met; good running water.

From here there is a direct caravan route to Massaua, but water along it is rather scarce, especially in the dry season.

[The following is an account:—

[Halibaret — 157 Leaving Halibaret by the direct track at the bottom of the valley the path is open, level, and easy. There is a little water to be found in the valley of the Maldi, but it is scarce in the Beloa valley, which is quite dry from January to June. The descent to the Beloa is bad. From Magasas there is a slight descent to the valley of the Maldi, and thence the road is good to Ambelako, near where running water is found at Galushima.

Ambelako 25 182

Fil Fil 8 190 Good running water. Between Fil Fil and Gergeret there are some very steep and stony ascents and descents, which are difficult for camel caravans. Same applies to the Ailet defile later on, which however is not so steep, being merely the stony bed of a stream. The track crosses three ranges of thickly wooded hills, and water is found in the Solomoni valley, about half way to Gergeret. The forest becomes less dense and the trees smaller as one approaches Gergeret.

Gergeret 10 202 Good water is found in abundance here, except in the months of July and October, when the supply diminishes considerably.

Ailet 8 210 From Gergeret to Ailet the heat is often intense, and there is a complete absence of water. Road mostly very stony, especially in the Ailet Gorge. Water bad and scarce.

[Saati 11 221

N.B.—This route report from Halibaret to Saati is not very reliable.]

Halibaret (stream) — 157 Soon after crossing this the ascent to the Asmara plateau begins in earnest, and the road zig-zags up rugged mountain sides until the summit is reached, at Azteklesan, a tukl village, which had a couple of small canteens (April, 1898), rest-houses, and a plentiful supply of water.

Azteklesan 13½ 170½

Siuma Negus 8 178½ From here the direct road winds along over at first rather a hilly bit of country covered with scattered bush and trees, and occasional khors, generally with water in them, until reaching Siuma Negus, where there is a stream of good water, and a fair-sized village. The metalled coach road, after leaving Azteklesan, makes a considerable detour to the N., and is 3 or 4 miles longer. From here to Asmara, an open and slightly undulating fertile plain extends, dotted here and there with villages and several running streamlets.

Asmara 11½ 190 This is the capital of Eritrea, and residence of the Governor and Military Commandant. It is a military station of great importance to the Colony, and consequently has a considerable garrison. There is also a practically impregnable and heavily armed fort, as well as others of lesser importance. In the town, which has made great strides of late, are some excellent shops kept by Europeans, though, beyond the actual officials, Italians have not yet colonized to any extent. There is a R.C. Church, club, and some fair cafés.

The Government of Eritrea is carried on by a Civilian Governor-General and a Military Commandant.

The Army consists (1901) of 600 Italian soldiers and about 7,000 natives. The artillery corps is recruited from blacks.

Asmara being roughly 7,000 feet above the sea has a temperate climate, and frost is not uncommon. There is a considerable rainfall in the summer months.

From Asmara to Ginda the most direct road is the mule track which follows the telegraph line down an exceedingly rocky and precipitous descent which begins about 2½ miles from the edge of the plateau, which again is about the same distance from the town. After about 2 miles the descent to Ginda, which is through fine scenery, a deep valley, enclosed on either side by precipitous mountains, becomes more gradual.

Ginda 15 205 At Ginda there is an excellent canteen (on a small scale) and good water supply (wells and stream).

The distance by the coach road must be at least 25 miles.

Sabarguma 5 210 Between Ginda and Sabarguma, where there is also a canteen and good water, the mule track again is considerably shorter than the carriage road, and traverses comparatively easy hills which are covered with thick forest.

Soon after leaving Sabarguma, a plain of the same name is crossed. This is noted for the intensity of its heat, and is said to have accounted for many of the flower of the Italian Army.

Saati 11 221 After crossing the plain, undulating open country extends to Saati, which was railhead (1898), though now the railway is said to have reached about half way to Sabarguma (1901).

At Saati, which is about 400 feet above the sea, there is a canteen, but water has to be brought from Massaua by the single line of railway.

Massaua 17 240 Two trains arrive and depart daily. Massaua contains a good harbour, barracks, very fair shops, and at least one quite respectable café, but it is a very hot, damp, unhealthy, and generally unpleasant place. Beninfeld’s agent would probably be the best man from whom to obtain transport, &c. The two lines of steamers which call at Massaua are the “Florio Rubattino” and “Khedivial.”

125.—TAKARASHORIT or AMBARAB on the KHOR GASH viâ SOGADA and KHOR MAIETIB to UMBREGA on the RIVER SETIT.

By Captain H. H. S. Morant, March, 1900.

General remarks.From Ambarab to Sogada the road is good enough for camels, and is kept open by frequent small caravans. There was also said to be a route from Todluk to Sogada, which was however described as “bad,” probably hilly.

Beyond Sogada the road itself presents no great difficulties, but the absence of traffic[40] has allowed the thorny bushes to close in on it to such an extent as to very seriously interfere with loaded or riding camels almost the whole way to Gira.

Once the Setit is reached, there is no real difficulty about water, but after the first 15 miles or so below Maietib the water is only accessible at certain places. The further you descend the river, the broader the strip of broken ground becomes on each side of the stream, the further the road keeps from it, and the wider apart are the watering places.

Probably the best plan when marching along the valley is to spend the heat of the day on the river, and the night on the plateau above.

Water should be carried in fantasses, as skins get cut to pieces by the thorns.

Cutting tools are desirable.

No supplies are obtainable nearer than Gedaref on the Setit. There are no settled inhabitants east of the village of Wad Heleiwa, 11½ miles E. of Sofi on the Atbara.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Takarashorit — — This appears to be the name of some wells in the bed of the Gash, about 45 miles above Kassala. If not constantly used, these wells are quickly filled in by the sand; but as the water is not more than 6 feet to 10 feet below the surface, they are easily opened out again. The bed here is sandy and about 120 yards wide. Ambarab is the name given to a grassy, and in the rains marshy, place about 1½ miles further up stream on the left bank.

Ambarab — —

There is a road from here to Agordat. The road to Sogada leads generally in a S. direction for the most part over level ground covered with more or less thick bush, which offers no serious obstacle to camels in single file.

There are several tracks, used probably at different times of the year. There are a few slight ascents and descents, but nothing at all serious.

Sogada 18 18 The road passes through some low stony hills partially covered with thorny bush, and at 18 miles it leaves the village of Sogada about ¾ mile on the left high up on the S.W. slopes of J. Argoji, the highest hill in the immediate neighbourhood. The village did not appear to contain more than 25 tukls.

There is a large and deep well at the foot of the hill, but the water was reported to be bad.

Khor Angaleib 1 19 Track now crosses a level plain enclosed on all sides by hills, with openings to the W. After crossing the khor, signs of recent dura cultivation were seen at intervals on both sides of the road.

Khor Gersat 3 22 Here there is a large well on the N. side of the khor, which gives a plentiful supply of good water. There are no tukls actually at the well, as the inhabitants prefer to build their houses on the hill sides, but there are several settlements in the immediate neighbourhood, all of which are included under the district name of Sogada.

The inhabitants are Baza, or Badein, or Kunama. They are very much afraid of the Bazas of the Setit, who raid them occasionally, they say, under Abyssinian leadership, but they seem to be friendly with the Beni Amer, whose merchants purchase dura from them. The Sheikh’s name is Haidar Wad Ibrahim.

Dinti 2¼ 24¼ From here the track proceeds nearly due S., but winds about a good deal amongst low hills and through thick bush, which, with one or two steep-banked khors, greatly impede the march of loaded camels.

The hamlet of Dinti is passed about 1½ miles to the left on the slopes of J. Dinti. The inhabitants of Lakatakura were camped in this neighbourhood, but whether they had left their home on account of the failure of their water supply, or from fear of the Abyssinians, it was difficult to make out.

3¼ 27½ After some more tedious windings the track descends into a level plain, bounded by the Atbara on the W., and Setit on the S., and on the E. by an apparently continuous range of hills, at the foot of which lies the Baza village of Lakatakura.

Khor Gullui 2½ 30 This khor is a considerable obstacle, being at least 15 feet deep and perhaps 30 yards wide. The sides are steep at regular crossing places. A few miles to the W., near J. Hamid, the water stands for a long time in the khor after the rains. That place is often referred to by natives as Gullui, and it seems to be on the old frontier of Hamrans, Beni Amer and Bazas.

There is some Baza cultivation near the Khor Gullui.

J. Sabun 5 35 From here on to J. Sabun, a small isolated hill said to be on the frontier between Hamrans and Bazas, the track passes through very thick thorn bush, which greatly impedes loaded camels.

Khor Sanasaba 3¼ 38¼ The track leaves J. Sabun just on its right and turns more to the E. The thorns are less troublesome, and patches of cultivation and open spaces with high grass are passed.

Khor Lakisaba 3 41¼ Track continues through the same class of country nearly due E., and after ascending the Khor Lakisaba for about 3 miles, it leaves it and ascends its left bank, making straight for the hills. Eventually it enters the valley of the Lakisaba, and a halt was made in its bed in a spot enclosed between the hills of J. Komkom and J. Agachina.

Halting-place 5¾ 47

There was no better reason for the selection of this halting-place, which was at least a mile off our road, than that it was perhaps the nearest point to the water at the head of the Khor Lakisaba, to which loaded camels could go without considerable difficulty. This water, the only water within about 20 miles in any direction, is said to be contained in a large cleft in the rock about 1 hour’s camel march beyond the halting-place. The cleft is high up in the rocks, and all the water has to be carried down by hand.

There were a few Baza families there, who assisted in the watering of our animals and filling our fantasses, but the delay was very great.

Lakatakura lies about 3½ to 4 miles N. of the Khor Lakisaba. It was deserted, and the well was said to be dry.

R. Setit 21 68 After retracing our steps for a mile we struck off in a S. direction, and followed a track made by an Italian hunting party a few days before. This track had evidently not been used for many years, as it was all overgrown with thorns, and was very indistinct in places. Fortunately the hunting party had been obliged to partially clear it for their camels, and after considerable difficulties we emerged from the hills after going about 12 miles, and reached the Khor Maichhi. Here there are many hashab, baobab, and sunt trees. Soon after the Khor Maietib is crossed, and places were seen where it is said water used formerly to remain even during the hot weather. After a few more miles through undulating wooded country the track leads suddenly on to the bank of the Setit opposite a large pool about 1 mile below its junction with the Khor Maietib, which is said to be the old boundary between the Hamran and Baza tribes. There was some tobacco growing in this khor which was said to have been planted by the Abyssinian Baza.

About here the Setit averages 100 to 150 yards wide, with a good deal of running water in it, though frequently fordable at this season (March). Banks 20 to 30 feet high with a good deal of tamarisk.

K. Debebi 1 69 Following river, down right bank K. Debebi and Abu Osher are crossed.

K. Abu Osher 2½ 71½

J. Mudassir 4½ 76 J. Mudassir is left ¾ mile on right and after crossing K. Meshra El Gedad J. Elaklei is also left same distance on right place on right bank named Darfit is passed, and Khor Um Hagar reached, the jebel of same name being 1 mile on right. Soon after crossing this khor, a track leads N. to Abu Gamal. Broken ground now begins.

K. Meshra El Gedad 1½ 77½

J. Elaklei 1 78½

Darfit 1 79½

Um Hagar 1 80½

Helegim 1 81½ After crossing the island of Helegim and marching down bed of river, good shade is reached on left bank.

Halt 1½ 83

J. Um Hagar 2 85 From here, leaving the river which was running S.W., owing to impossibility of marching along it on account of ravines and thick bush, a N. direction was taken to foot of J. Um Hagar, then, turning W., marched over bad cotton soil chiefly along elephant tracks at foot of low ridge of hills left on right till, reaching a shorter detached ridge, we turned S., passing Hafeira, an old burial ground of Hamrans, and descended to the river at Umbrega, where the Setit flows between white cliffs, Geif El Hamam, on left bank, and precipitous ground on right bank. The last 17 miles had been nearly all bad going, and game paths were the only tracks met. Game between Maietib and Umbrega plentiful. Lion, abu ma’arif (Roan Antelope), kudu, water-buck, tétel (tora hartebeeste), bushbuck, ariel, gazelle, oribi, dig-dig, wart-hog, hippo. Numbers of giraffe and elephant tracks were seen, but buffalo tracks only twice.

Ridge 6¼ 91¼

Hafeira 7 98¼

Umbrega[41] 2 100¼

126.—GALLABAT to CHELGA.

By Captain A. C. Parker, January, 1904.

General.From Gallabat to where the track crosses the Gandoa, ground is undulating and track continually crosses khors which drain into the Gandoa or the Atbara. Country bushed and rocky, but stretches of cotton soil in places; from the Gandoa on to Chelga track gets worse and gradients more severe and valleys running down from the Escarp more deeply cut.

Water.Is in plenty all along the road, there is not an interval of 10 miles without good water.

Supplies.Perhaps a little dura can be obtained at Wahni (up to an ardeb or two) otherwise non-existent.

Inhabitants.Belata Dasta’s village is at Wahni, otherwise no inhabitants except roving bands of hunters, usually Tigréans.

Transport.Mule, donkey and pony pack-transport only suitable, though camels said to have been used as far as Wahni.

Passes.The Emperor’s pass is a necessity.

Game.Plentiful on Atbara and Gandoa.

Escort.An escort of 8 to 10 men is necessary in case of bandits.

N.B.—W = Wauz = Khor. T = Tarara = Jebel.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Gallabat — — Leaving Gallabat, path crosses Khor Abnakheir; ground rises from khor rough and stony; about 300 yards from it, a track leads in a more southerly direction to Kwara; track, running a little S. of E., passes round S. end of Tarara Mariam Waha (200 feet); skirting S. of this hill and its continuations, path is rough, cut up by small khors running S. from them; at mile 3, low hills begin on S. of track and continue for a mile, track rough, winding, and cut up by small khors running N. From here country becomes more open, cotton soil, and low trees until a small khor fringed with big trees is reached, and a few hundred yards on, Khor Chincha, a rocky khor, water plentiful. Track meanders on through rocky ground, rough going, for a mile, when cotton soil and more or less open country is reached; another 1½ miles, and a rocky khor is reached.

Tarara Mariam Waha 2 2

2 4

Khor Chincha 1 5

Khor Sababa 2½ 7½ (Khor Sababa.) A few hundred yards on is the halting-place Wahsha, steep cliff on N. of khor making waterfall when water sufficient, still rough going, cotton soil and rocky alternately; ¾ mile on, cross Khor Abd El Rizak Gowari (12 yards wide), cotton soil thickly wooded at mile 10. A small khor is crossed and ¼ mile on Khor Goghan; at mile 10½, Khor Koki, or Shatta, is crossed; this is a very winding, deep khor, banks 10 feet, bed shingly, 15 yards wide, water very plentiful, good shade. Track crosses this khor twice more before leaving it, when country becomes fairly open, with small trees, and after 2 miles reaches and passes to S. of a small hill (120 feet), Tarara Jingandibba (or J. Wad Manna). Path now continually crosses small khors running N.; at mile 16 Khor Ardeiba is passed, and 2 miles on Khor Wandoferi is crossed (7 yards wide, banks 6 feet high, not much water, good shade); ¾ mile good going, and track begins to descend, and ½ mile on reaches Khor Aftit (12 yards wide, banks 10 feet high, good water and shade). ½ mile on crosses small khor, country much cut up. 1½ miles on Khor Shahadi (16 yards wide, deep pools, general direction N.) is crossed; ¾ mile on path skirts edge of cliff 50 feet high, at bottom of which is Khor Shahadi; at mile 23¾ track descends rapidly, and ¼ mile on crosses small khor; ½ mile further on small khor of flowing water, and at mile 25¼ Khor Gandoa (50 yards wide in deep pools). From this point road to Dagussa leads off up left bank of Gandoa. Crossing Gandoa, track runs almost parallel with it, low hills 1,000 yards off to N. and also on other side of Gandoa; at mile 27 track crosses Ofing Gandoa W. (small, with water), and at mile 27½ passes close S. of a hill (200 feet). Bamboos now first observed in abundance; ¼ mile on path crosses Jirar W. (15 yards wide, pools of water). At mile 28 path passes close N. of a low hill running down towards the Gandoa, and at mile 30½ close S. of another hill, low hills still to N.; 2¼ miles on reach Agam W., flowing water (named from the lilac-like flowering bush growing there). At mile 33¼ cross small khor, and another khor 2 miles from Agam W., low hills now only 250 yards off to N.; ½ mile on pass close to S. of another hill. At mile 36 track crosses a small stony khor with a thick fringe of bamboos, and ¾ mile on close round the S. of a bluff; ¾ mile small khor, and at mile 38 reaches Abai W., a running stream coming from among some hills about 600 feet high and 1,500 yards off N. of road. Track now leads up the valley of a small khor with low hills on both sides quite close, dense jungle of bamboo, high grass, etc., but after 1¼ miles begins to ascend a spur rapidly, and in course of the next half mile rises about 200 feet, then across a flat with amphitheatre of precipitous flat-topped hills (600 feet) to N., about 2,000 yards off, to southern end of Tarara Kamachela (700 to 800 feet). Track passes round S. of Kamachela, and close under it, running at right angles to its former direction; still under hill crosses khor of water, and a mile on reaches site of Wahni Suk (no buildings). From the Suk there is very steep path leading up to the village of Wahni (uninhabited when seen); this is situated on the top of Kamachela, a plateau sloping away to the N. There is a little cultivation below (dura and cotton), but grain can only be bought in very limited quantities. From Wahni Suk track resumes its old course; after 1 mile a khor (10 yards wide) full of water is crossed, and ½ mile on track passes through two or three low hills. ½ mile on a small khor of water is crossed. Here the “Candelabra cactus” makes its first appearance. Path now descends rapidly, and reaches khor in bottom of valley about 250 feet below Wahni Suk. Since crossing the Gandoa, khors have all been running more or less W., but from here, after ascending out of valley, another water system is encountered, the water running N. Path ascends and crosses spurs, running N. from a square precipitous hill, Tarara Angedibba.

Khor Koki 3 10½

Tarara Jingandibba 2 12½

Khor Wandoferi 5½ 18

Khor Aftit 1¼ 19¼

Khor Shahadi 2 21¼

Khor Gandoa 4 25¼

2¼ 27½

½ 28

2½ 30½

Agam W. 2¼ 32¾

3¼ 36

Abai W. 2 38

Tarara Kamachela 3 41

Wahni Suk 3½ 44½

1 45½

1 46½

1 47½

1 48½

1¼ 49¾ At mile 49¾ saddle N. of Tarara Angedibba is passed over, and path at once descends rapidly into the jungley valley of the Baloha W., some small khors are crossed, and 2 miles from saddle there is a small hill on left of path; ¾ mile on track crosses Baloha W., a babbling stream 12 yards wide, two or three times, and at mile 53¼ begins to ascend rapidly, and in ¼ mile reaches saddle under Tarara Baloha. Striking along the hill for ¾ mile track crosses a spur, and descends into the valley of Sunkwa W., flowing water, reaching latter after another 1¼ miles. Path now ascends rapidly out of khor, and after 1 mile passes close N. of a hill (some 250 feet high); two or three small khors are crossed running N., and 2¼ miles from the Sunkwa path reaches a saddle, hills visible N. and S.; path now ascends and runs along the N. side of a range of hills for 4 miles, when track skirts to N. of a knobby hill on top of the range; there is a little water in a khor running down the hill northwards here, but not enough for baggage animals; track now changes to S. side of range and skirts along, winding in and out between gullies and spurs until a small pool of water is reached in Savinki W.

2 51¾

1¾ 53½

Sunkwa W. 2 55½

Savinki W. 3¾ 66½

Gint W. 2 68½ From here track runs a few hundred yards almost due south, then changes to south-east, ground more level as nearer base of hills; now reaches Gint W., close under Tarara Wahamba, a jagged basaltic remnant. Track now winds for about a mile, turning continually at right angles, as ground is very rough and cut up by khors. Path finally crosses to south of Gint W., a running stream, and ascends a spur of Wali Deva range, rounding spurs and crossing khors; at mile 72¼ track, which is close down to khor, rises sharply up a spur for 300 yards, and skirts along higher up. At mile 75¾ path again rises rapidly up a spur, and after a pretty hard climb of some 1,600 feet passes up a cleft and reaches top of escarpment at head of valley of Gint W. Country is now open and rolling, track ascends gradually for 2½ miles, when it crosses the watershed. Here a view of Lake Tsana is obtained. Path now descends, easy gradients, into the Goang valley, and reaches Chelga at mile 84¾.

3¾ 72¼

3½ 75¾

Top of Escarpment — —

2½ 81¼

Chelga 3½ 84¾

127.—LAKE TSANA (GOJA) to GANDOA.

By Captain A. C. Parker, Royal Sussex Regiment, March, 1904.

General.Goja to Gallabat fair path, better than Chelga to Gallabat Road, but after descent of Escarp there are several bad places.

Water.Is plentiful, nowhere more than 10 miles interval without it.

Supplies.Obtainable nil.

Inhabitants.Abyssinian villages from Lake Tsana up to watershed. A monastry at Mabra Solasi near Bamba. Stray hunting parties in the country adjoining the frontier.

Transport.Mule, donkey, and pony pack-transport only suitable.

Passes, game, escort.See route Gallabat—Chelga.

N.B.—W = Wauz = Khor = dry watercourse. T = Tarara = Jebel = mountain.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

1 1 Path leaves Goja in a northerly direction through high grass, and crosses a small khor almost at once. After 1 mile passes round west side of a low hill; 1½ miles on cross Anfordibba W. Full of running water; ground rises slowly; open country; path crosses Ariko W., full of water, and, still ascending, leaves small hill on left, and at mile 4 passes a big tree marking spot where market used to be held.

Ariko 1¾ 2¾

Amusgebaia 1¼ 4 “Amusgebaia”—legend says tree was used for hanging people. Cross four small khors, and, still gradually ascending, reach Goanderat village. Track crosses two small khors and gradually runs up side of a small valley on to watershed; now descends slowly, and reaches camping ground at Barbaria Kora (small amount of water). Ground slopes away for another 1½ miles, when track descends rapidly down north side of a gully and, striking down a spur, reaches a saddle; now skirts north side of spur, path descending rapidly. At mile 12½ track passes along edge of a sheer precipice; shortly after path runs sharply down a spur in a more northerly direction; at mile 14 it leaves spur and leads down steep rocky descent across small khor and reaches camping place, “Diloa W.”; said to be water in khor, but I did not see it. Track now very much shut in, thick bush and rough stony descents, an especially bad one at mile 16¾. At mile 17 track follows bed of small khor, crossing it continually, track bad, thick bush, shut in both sides by hills; at mile 19 this khor joins Ganbilo W.; juncture is called Girad Mwat, there is abundant water. Follows Ganbilo W., a khor 20 yards wide with pools, crossing it six times in the next 2¾ miles; track now passes between two hills, that on N. being very steep and probably end of a ridge which runs down from Tankal. Path now descends slowly, bamboo jungle, and 1½ miles on reaches junction of two khors, Goandera W., water plentiful. 1¾ miles on path crosses khor (Tukur Waha W.); path now along right bank of Jira W., 25 yards wide with large pools, then cross Ambo W. This comes from a spring about ½ mile further back in hill, where it bubbles up quite warm; a couple of hundred yards off on the other side of the Jira lie the hot baths Mwat Abba Mariam. 2½ miles on pass to N. of low hill; hills on N. of path about 400 yards off, Jira W. still lying parallel with road but some way off to S.; at mile 31¾ track runs close to the Jira, here deep water but narrow for 500 yards, when a deep khor coming from N. is crossed; track now leaves Jira and leads up a defile down which a khor, a tributary of Jira runs; cross this khor for first time at mile 33, steep precipitous hills on both sides, path ascending dense bamboo thickets, reach water at mile 37¼. Ascent from Jira has been 300 or 400 feet; path now descends rapidly 350 feet, and leads down north side of a flat valley, path good, and reaches Wanenta, water sufficient for party of 30 or so; now along north side of valley close under low hills; on south side of valley is a very prominent cone-shaped hill. Cross Shimel Waha W., water abundant, and 1 mile on cross small khor, halting-place under a gemmeiza tree, called Bamba, track level and good; cross Jineta Mariam W., running water, and 1¼ miles on another running stream, called Mariam Waha W.; ¼ mile further track passes close north of a hill; ground now broken up by spurs running northwards; path now descends and crosses Nefoing Gandoa W. just at the junction with the Gandoa; another 1½ miles on and Jigebit camping ground on the Gandoa is reached. 2¼ miles on cross khor of running water, and at mile 57 cross Barkurkur W., a small khor of flowing water; 2 miles on track passes south of Tarara Bisaurkudat, and ½ mile on reaches Malkam Waha W., a small khor of flowing water. At mile 60¾ crosses a khor of running water and another one 500 or 600 yards on; at mile 62½ pass close to a bend of the Gandoa, and 1 mile on across the Wahsha W.; after another mile cross a big khor, and 700 yards on a small khor with water; another deep khor without water is crossed, and then the Gandoa is reached. Path skirts it for some hundreds of yards till it reaches point where Wahni road crosses.

Goanderat ¾ 4¾

2¾ 7½

Barbaria Kora 1 8½

2¼ 10¾

1¾ 12½

Diloa W. 1¾ 14¼

Girad Mwat 4¾ 19

4 23

Goandera W. 1½ 24½

Ambo 2¼ 26¾

Mwat Abba Mariam 1¼ 28

2½ 30½

1¼ 31¾

1¼ 33

4¼ 37¼

Wanenta 4½ 41¾

Shimel Waha W. 3¼ 45

Bamba 1 46

Jineta Mariam 2¼ 48¼

1½ 49¾

Nefoing Gandoa 1¾ 51½

Jigebit 1½ 53

2¼ 55¼

Barkurkur 1¾ 57

Malkam Waha W. 2½ 59½

1¾ 62½

Wahsha W. 1 63½

Gandoa 2½ 66

Measurements by pacing, pace reckoned 32½ inches.

128.—ADDIS ABBABA, viâ GOJJAM and LAKE TSANA, to GALLABAT.[42]

By Mr. J. Baird, May, 1901.

Place. Miles. Hours’ march. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

H. M.

Addis Abbaba — — — The road from Addis Abbaba is rough and hilly. Three nullahs are crossed, two of them with steep sides. No fuel. Barley can be bought. Excellent grazing. Two good streams 50 yards from camp (S.).

Sallulta 4 4 1 50 Excellent going over undulating grass country. Six streams crossed, all easy and containing a fair supply of water. Many villages and much ploughed land en route. Cattle and horses numerous; fuel plentiful. Last hour’s march through acacia scrub. Good stream. Supplies as before.

Muggur-Affaf 21½ 25½ 8 35 The descent into the Muggur, commencement of which is reached 2 hours after leaving camp, is precipitous and unrideable. Loaded mules get down with difficulty. Muggur reached 4 hours from start. Ascent to other (N.) side of valley is easier, but also mostly unrideable. Camp at edge of S. plateau. No water between camps, except Muggur. Two villages passed in valley, one on either side of river. Some cotton and barley grown. Monkeys and florican on hills. Each side of River Muggur 2,800 feet below either plateau. Grazing bad; barley and sheep in small quantities. A fair stream 100 yards N. of camp. Wood plentiful in Muggur valley, but scarce immediately round camp.

Yaïya 16½ 42 7 5

Kessi 17½ 59½ 6 45 Easy marching over undulating grass country; for the last 1½ hours through occasional chavaha trees. Fuel scarce. The hills, which are a mile E. and N.E. of camp, are wooded, but plains are treeless. Excellent grazing; fair supplies of barley and sheep. A small stream 100 yards N. of camp.

Jarso 21½ 81 8 35 Excellent going over gently undulating grass plateau. Few streams crossed, and water usually scarce and bad. No trees. A few villages. Few cattle. A large market at Jarso on Saturdays; barley, sheep, and fuel to be bought. Fair stream 50 yards W. of camp.

Blue Nile (right bank) 14 95 7 0 This camp is a very bad one. Tents have to be pitched on the track, which runs along the steep N. bank of the Nile. Any amount of fuel. The descent is unrideable, and mules have to be unloaded once to get through narrow pass. River 4,680 feet below S. plateau. Few mosquitoes. Many crocodiles and good fish can be caught in Nile. No water between Jarso and river. No grazing and no supplies. Wood abundant.

Dejen 13½ 108½ 7 0 The first part of ascent is most trying for mules. At one part they have to be unloaded and load carried up steps for 40 feet (1 hour 13 minutes after start); the remainder of the road runs over successive plateaux, connected by steep ascents. Village of Mere (friendly chief, Balambaras Nagau) near top of ascent, and considerable amount of cultivation around it. Excellent grazing; plentiful supplies from neighbouring village. Water bad and little from stream 100 yards E. of camp. Wood scarce.

Abukerk 14½ 123 6 0 A good camping-place in sheltered cup. Wood plentiful on surrounding hills. A fair number of villages in neighbourhood, and some cultivation. Excellent going, mostly over undulating grass; treeless plain from Dejen. A few streams en route. Latter part along wooded western slope of ridge. Excellent grazing; supplies plentiful. Water, good supply from stream 50 yards W. of camp. Wood abundant.

Askatta 7½ 130½ 3 15 Camp on treeless slope of undulating plain, over which road led from Abukerk. Several streams crossed, all easy, and going excellent all the way. Little cultivation; good grazing. Supplies plentiful at neighbouring village. Water, fair supply from stream 100 yards below camp. Wood scarce.

Debra Markos 10½ 141 4 30 The track is hilly, and in some places the descents are steep and slippery after rain. Much of the road lies through thick acacia scrub, almost impassable except by the main mule track. Water plentiful. Track narrow in places. Large market.

Delma 18½ 159½ 7 0 Small camping ground on a slope running from N.N.W. to a fair stream running W. Excellent going, alternately through cultivation, bush and plain. Many rivers en route, all easily crossed. Grazing bad. Villages in neighbourhood numerous. Barley plentiful and cheap. Wood and water abundant.

Dembecha 9½ 169 2 40 A steep descent 5 minutes after starting, and fairly steep descent and ascent into and out of Tumcha river; the track, except for the last hour, leads through scrub and thick wood; the crossing of the Gadlar is easy, low banks. Excellent camping ground on the E. side of Dembecha, ½ mile from Gadlar; first rate grazing. Barley, rif. Market on Mondays. Water abundant; wood on surrounding hills, and can be bought.

River Bakkalla 19 188 6 45 Passing through Dembecha the road ascends gradually for the first ½ hour some 200 feet over open grass country; it then drops into a thick forest, where the track is so narrow and deep that two mules could not pass in some places; thick undergrowth. After three-quarters of an hour’s march, the Cherika stream is crossed 350 feet below the Dembecha; from here onwards the trees and the undergrowth are far less thick, and the track no longer runs in a deep rut. During the next three-quarters of an hour the road drops gradually 250 feet, and then falls 500 feet in 20 minutes down to the Kacham river. The descent is easy. The river in May is some 15 yards wide, from 1 to 2 feet deep, with a swift current; flat, wooded banks. Large, flat, slippery stones make the crossing rather troublesome. The valley of this river is about ¾ mile wide. The road now rises 290 feet, crossing a spur which juts out from the hills bounding Kacham’s valley on the W. and dropping again to 10 feet below the Kacham’s level, crosses the Birr river 50 minutes later. The bed of the Birr at the crossing is some 80 yards wide, the left bank 15 to 20 feet high and the right bank lower; the water (7th May) runs with a swift current, about 1 foot deep, over a rocky bed in two channels, separated by a mass of black rock. 200 yards below the crossing there is a fall of some 30 feet, below which the river runs in a narrow gorge enclosed by black rocks; 300 yards below this it is crossed by a rough log bridge. The road from here runs over an undulating grass-covered plain, bare at first, but during the last 2 hours’ march, wooded. The Rivers Sarinwaha, Tamim, Lach and Bakkalla are crossed, as well as two unnamed streams; in May they none of them present any difficulty. The camp is a small and bad one on the sloping N. bank of the Bakkalla river. Wood and water plentiful, also barley.

Burre 9½ 197½ 4 0 As far as Monkussa the track winds N.W. and W. over undulating grass country dotted with acacia trees. Parallel to the road, on the S. side of it, and apparently about 5 miles off, runs a chain of hills. The river Birr flows past the southern end, and the Lach the northern of this range; they join on the far side and flow into the Blue Nile. One small stream is crossed before reaching Monkussa, and one immediately after leaving that village, the Dawuna by name, 20 yards wide; water knee-deep in May, with a strong current. The crossing is troublesome on account of very slippery, flat stones. After leaving Monkussa, the track winds through more thickly-wooded country, and eventually runs over a treeless plain, out of which rises the knoll where Burre is built. There is ample space for a good camp No wood at the town, but easily procured close by. Water supply not seen, but must be fairly copious. Large supplies.

This is the capital of Damot, the seat of Ras Warke, the governor, and the centre of a populous, fertile, and cultivated district.

The villages of Waan and Zoava are passed between Monkussa and Burre.

Chara 6½ 204 2 30 An easy march through a populous, well cultivated, undulating country. Good camping ground on the edge of a stream; villages all around. Supplies, wood and water plentiful.

Anjavera 18 222 7 20 Eight miles through undulating cultivation; cross Fattom river, tributary of Blue Nile, 40 yards wide and 3 feet deep at crossing; stream sluggish. Then 2½ miles through dense forest, after which track twists through wooded hills into a fairly populous and cultivated plain. Rise of 600 feet during march. Inhabitants not very friendly. Supplies as before, and some cattle.

Dangalla 20½ 242½ 8 0 Rise rapidly 300 feet. Cross thickly-wooded ridge forming water-parting between Tsana and Blue Nile systems, then drop by narrow winding track through dense forest into rich, undulating, well-watered country, with patches of cultivation. Track in places very narrow, and worn deep into the clay. Four hundred yards N.W. of point where track emerges from wooded ridge, rises a sugar-loaf hill, called Zurachi, about 1,000 feet, forming a conspicuous landmark. E. of track are several isolated hills, among which is Saatma, visible for some distance on either side of Anjavera. Last 8 miles through populous and fertile district of Achaffer. Camp in centre of four scattered villages. After crossing ridge excellent going. Wood and water scarce.

Ismaila 7 249½ 2 30 Good camp. Fair water and supplies.

Nefassa 16 265½ 6 30 Cross River Barati, tributary of Blue Nile; easy crossing; thence up gentle slope past Libtan, a large village with considerable amount of cultivation; skirt foot of hills bounding valley of Blue Nile on W. to Nefassa. Poor, thinly populated district. Supplies scarce; no sheep or cattle. Water and wood scarce.

Liven 6 271½ 2 25 A good camping ground. Open country. Good road from Ismaila. Barley can be bought, but no sheep; a few cattle in the neighbourhood. Wood plentiful; small water supply.

Forehe 9½ 281 3 45 Good camp. A good road from Liven. Natives unfriendly. Supplies and water scarce.

Konsuli (Lake Tsana) 5½ 286½ 2 0 A small camping ground 100 yards from the lake; a good road from Forehe. Natives unfriendly. Wood, water and barley plentiful.

Goja (Lake Tsana) 19 305½ 7 30 A rough road through the hills which border the lake; no water en route; a bad damp camping ground on the foreshore of the lake. Another road follows the water’s edge from Konsuli. This is longer, but said to be better.

Dumgi 11 316½ 3 0 A good road, and a good camping ground. Poor grazing. Water from lake.

Berbera Kora 5 321½ 1 50 A good camping ground in a hollow; excellent grazing. Water supply fair. Plenty of wood. No supplies.

Ghimfyva River 9½ 331 5 0 A very rough march, and a very bad camp in a narrow, rocky, thickly-wooded valley. Cross water-parting between Tsana and Atbara systems, 600 feet above Lake. Track narrow, twisting, and in places very steep, only practicable for mule or donkey transport; descent of 3,500 feet in last 5 hours. Practically no grazing. Wood, but little water in rocks.

River Jera 12½ 343½ 4 50 Another very rough march. A fair little camping ground with good shade; a little grazing. Plenty of wood and water.

Camp near water holes 10½ 354 4 10 A good camping ground. The first part of the road is rough, but after crossing a ridge nearly 1,000 feet above the Jera river it becomes considerably easier; thick clumps of bamboo are difficult for loaded mules to get through in places. Hardly any grazing. Fair amount of water. Plenty of wood.

Ghindoa (Gandoa) River 21½ 375½ 8 50 A good camp; fair going, except for the thick clumps of bamboo, which are a little difficult for loaded mules to get through in places. A halt can be made at some water passed 6 hours 5 minutes after starting. Hardly any grazing. No supplies. Wood and water plentiful.

Chincha River 22 397½ 8 20 Good going and a good camping ground. Very little grazing. Wood and water as before.

Matemma (Gallabat) 5½ 403 2 0 An easy march over a good road.

This road from the lake is the one followed by the Emperor John when he went down to Matemma with some 20,000 (?) men in 1889 and was killed by the Dervishes. The rains had barely commenced during the present journey, therefore there was hardly any grass, and water was scarce during the first 3 days’ march from the lake. Both water and grass must be abundant after the rains, and while these are falling the mountain torrents are said to make the road impassable; it could be greatly improved by clearing the bamboos and other trees which in places almost conceal the track.

129.—ADDIS ABBABA to FAMAKA (S. of BLUE NILE).

By Lieutenant Gwynn, D.S.O., 1900.

Note—

G. = Gara, mountain range. J. = Jebel.

T. = Tulu, mountain peak. K. = Khor.

L. = Laga, stream.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Addis Abbaba — —

British Residency — — The British Residency is situated at the foot of a spur running S. from the Entotto range, and bounding the Addis Abbaba valley on the E. It lies just clear of the most easterly native huts. About 600 yards immediately N. of it is the Russian Agency, and about the same distance to the W.N.W. of the latter, on the opposite side of the stream, is the Russian doctor’s enclosure formerly occupied by the Rodd Mission. For position of other European missions, &c., see Count Gleichen’s map of Addis Abbaba (I.D.W.O., 1897).

The water supply of the British Residency is drawn from a spring on the slopes at the back of the compound, and a surface channel from the spring supplies a small tank in the compound for watering horses, &c.

The compound is surrounded with a solid mud wall, surmounted by a continuous hurdle work fence.

Gibe (King’s Enclosure) 1½ 1½ Lies pretty well in the centre of the town, on a long flat spur running down from Entotto. The enclosure is formed by a high wooden palisade, and at the present time an outer wall, solidly built in stone, is being constructed. Inside the palisade the enclosure is divided by numerous stone walls and wooden fences; the buildings are strongly built, but there are many thatched buildings and a lot of woodwork.

Water supply is laid on in iron mains from Entotto, and there is an artificial surface channel just outside the enclosure.

The town of Addis Abbaba extends about 3 miles from E. to W., but the houses are scattered haphazard and there are no streets; the tracks running between the houses are very rough, and the crossings of the streams are bad, in particular in the rains. A few rough narrow bridges exist, but are not used in the dry season.

After clearing the town there is a wide flat spur before the Akaki (Western) is reached, which would form a fine camping ground.

Akaki (1st branch) 4½ 6 Small stream in deep gully.

Akaki (2nd branch) 1 7 Stream, 15 feet wide, 1 foot deep, rapid, in a deep gully; very steep on W. side. The col connecting the Entotto with the Managasha Hills is a fine manœuvring ground for troops of all arms, and is, on the whole, flat and open, though it is intersected by a few narrow valleys draining to the Akaki. Almost all these contain water. The whole mass of mountains S. of the road is generally called Managasha, but this name strictly applies to the steep round-topped hill just S. of the road at the watershed. The main mountain is called Wochochu by the indigenous Gallas.

T. Managasha 6 13

Fitaurari Hapto Gorgis’s house lies a little N. of the road just where the descent into the Walata valley commences, and his territory stretches S.W. from this point.

T. Managasha is well wooded, as are the steep slopes forming the escarp connecting G. Managasha and G. Foweita.

The road descends this escarp by a fairly well graded, though steep, line, crossing several small streams.

Kaffa road 1 14 About 1 mile after commencing the descent, the road to Kaffa and Limmu branches off S.W. towards the sharp cone to Wata Dalecho; to the left of the road, near the bottom of the escarp, is the Abunas house, situated among thick trees.

L. Walata 8 22 At the foot of the escarp the woody road stops and then enters a flat grass valley, in the middle of which is the Walata, a stream about 20 feet wide and 1 foot deep.

L. Dalota 5 27 Between Walata and Dalota flat grassland, with a few Galla farms. L. Dalota, rapid, 20 feet wide, 1 foot deep.

Addis Alem (British Location) 1½ 28½ The road rises steeply from the stream to the wooded spur on which Addis Alem is being built. To the N. of the road the escarp commences which marks the watershed between the Nile and Hawash, and extends without break from this point to the River Gude. The escarp and spurs running from it are well wooded and well watered, the main spurs being broken up into minor features. The British and Italian locations are side by side to the S. of the stream which runs through the town; the ground to the S. of them is flat for 800 yards or so, and at present fairly thickly wooded. On the N. it drops very steeply to the stream about 40 feet.

Addis Alem Gibe ½ 29

No building has yet been commenced on the British location, but Major Ciccodicola has built several large houses of the ordinary Tukl pattern, and has laid out and commenced another house of more European design, the lower story of which is stone.

The Gibe is built on a knoll between two streams, the drop towards the southern one being very steep. The main buildings will be on the N. shoulder of the knoll. On the northern slope of the knoll is a sort of park enclosed by a ditch and palisade. This is evidently intended for a defensible camp, as the enclosure on the top of the knoll is too small for any considerable force.

Water supply is not very good for the town, but a main for the supply of the Gibe is being laid from the spur to the N.E.

L. Barga 5 34 Road W. of Addis Alem, though not so well worn as between Addis Alem and Addis Abbaba, is, on the whole, well defined and good, being much used by the traders from Leka, Lekempti Walega, and Kelina (Chelim), and the soldiers of Dejaj Damasi, Dejaj Gumsa (Gabri Xiavrihir), and Dejaj Goti (Joti).

At first it runs along a well-wooded spur, then crosses the Barga, which runs in a deep, steep-sided valley, 20 feet by 1 foot; rapid.

L. Jemjem 6 40 Between the Barga and Jemjem are several small streams with fair water. The Jemjem is 12 feet wide and 6 inches deep; rapid. Road runs at the foot of the spurs in open country; the escarp to the N. is steeper and the spurs are shorter; to the S. is the flat open grass land of the Hawash Valley, which would probably be very swampy during the rains; the road practically is the boundary between Ras Mangasha Atakem’s territory on the N., and Fitaurari Hapto Giorgis on the S. It actually lies, however, in Ras Mangasha’s country.

Hawash River 6½ 48½ Between Jemjem and Hawash the country is quite open. Three small muddy streams are crossed. Hawash, 20 feet by 6 inches; rapid, beautiful water.

L. Bagaga 8½ 57 A very small stream, draining to the Gude. No water between it and the Hawash on the road crossing the watershed. To the S. are the Chavo Mountains, and to the N. the escarp rises to a high shoulder at G. Ilfata. From this point the road traverses a succession of open spurs running N. to the L. Dabis, a tributary of the Gude. On the N. of the Dabis the escarp rises in huge terraced cliffs.

L. Meiti or Sellen 3½ 60½ Small stream, with good water; before reaching it a dry watercourse and two small streams are crossed.

W. of the Laga Meiti the country is everywhere more or less wooded, though the trees are small, except by the streams or on the mountain slopes. This is due to constant grass fires.

L. Hulogka 7 67½ L. Hulogka, 30 feet by 1 foot; rapid; is a fine stream. About 3 miles N. of the road is a church and a hot spring. Between the L. Meiti and L. Hulogka, the L. Awaru drains a marshy valley.

Tulu Dintu 4½ 72 Road passes over rather a hilly bit of country, crossing the Taltale and Birbissu streams at 2½ and 3½ miles respectively; both small, with good water.

Tulu Dintu was formerly residence of Dejaj Hailo Hariam, brother of Ras Makunnen. Now few huts are occupied.

River Gude Bridge 3½ 75½ Flat country between Tula Dintu and Gude, thickly wooded near the latter; two tributaries of the Gude have to be crossed, both small streams with good water.

The Gude is a beautiful stream, running from one deep rock pool to another at the bottom of sheer-sided channel, 30 feet deep.

A good wooden bridge, 6 feet wide, on stone abutments, has been built, evidently under M. Ilg’s direction.

The ground near the stream is too thickly wooded and confined to be a good camping place.

The Gude flows N. to the Abai, cutting through the escarp in a wonderful canon about a mile wide, with sheer sides some 2,000 feet high. Beautiful scenery.

L. Kili 10 85½ From the Gude the road rises steeply and runs round the northern spurs of the mountain group which culminates in G. Ragge. The first ascent is very steep, but road is fully well graded, and the conical peak of T. Befti is left to the right.

Small streams are crossed at 4, 4½, 7½, and 9 miles. About 4 miles N. of the road is a deep valley, running from W. to E. to the Gude, and on the N. side of it the escarp rises precipitously. The spurs of G. Ragge are thickly wooded, and are divided by steep valleys.

L. Kili, a good stream, 15 feet wide and 6 inches deep, in a narrow valley.

L. Aresu 4½ 90 Road rises very steeply from the Kili over the shoulder of T. Boke, and descends steeply into the Humbolsha Valley (stream dries up) at 2½ miles, then a slight rise and another steep descent to the Aresu, a small stream, but with good water and a good open camping ground on its W. bank.

Chelia District (Gedda village) 10 100 From the Aresu the road winds round the south-western end of the Rafisokili Valley, passing over numerous spurs and small streams. L. Mata Arba, at the third mile, is western boundary of Ras Mangasha’s territory, and the eastern boundary of Chelia, which belongs to Queen Taitu. Country much broken, and fairly thickly wooded.

The village of Gedda, formerly the residence of Dejaj Desta (Ras Darge’s son, now dead), is on the narrow water partly between the Gude (Blue Nile) and Gibbe (Omo) basins; there is a considerable population and a church here.

L. Garsa 12 112 After crossing the watershed the road drops at first very steeply, and then more gradually, into the Gibbe Valley; the surface of the road is good, and level ground is reached at the end of the third mile. At 1½ miles a road branches off to S.W., probably that shown on the map illustrating movement of Bonchamps’ mission.

The L. Ambo, which combines with other streams to form the Alengo, is crossed, and the road skirts along N. of, and parallel to, the Alengo.

Several streams are crossed before reaching the Garan, and the country is rough.

From Gedda the escarp trends off N.W., leaving a wide plain, bounded on the S. and W. by G. Kwunchu Sodu and Tuka.

The Garsa is a sluggish, muddy stream, running between steep clay banks. Good camping ground W. of it.

L. Alengo 5 117 Road, after passing a few low spurs, runs over a flat, clay valley. The Alengo, 30 feet wide by 6 inches deep.

River Gibbe 6 123 Road continues over flat, open country, passing close to the low, rocky hillock, T. Bertuma. The Gibbe, 45 feet wide, 2 feet deep, fairly rapid; clay bank, thickly lined with willow, bottom gravel. It is a tributary of the Omo, and the eastern limit of the Queen’s district of Chelia. Between the Gibbe and the Wama the country is Dejaj Damasi’s.

Bilo 13 136 After crossing the Gibbe the road skirts round the northern spurs of G. Kwunchu, crossing several small streams and rather rough ground. Bilo is a considerable market and Customs post, situated on the W. side of the L. Tarli, a good-sized stream running N. to the Gibbe between clay banks.

From Bilo the main road to Leka branches off S.W. between T. Sodu and J. Soksaw.

J. Sodu Pass 5 141 The Lekempti road keeps almost due W., passing just S. of the summit of Sodu. The ascent is not as bad as it appears, as the road is well graded.

There is a wide open spur just before the final rise to the pass begins, which would form a good camping place. Several small streams are crossed in the ascent.

River Wama 12 153 From the pass, which is a very narrow saddle, the descent is steep for 2½ miles; small camping ground, with limited water supply at this point. Then road follows a long spur, falling gradually towards the Wama. Wooded slopes and no cultivation. The Wama is a considerable stream, flowing in rather marshy ground between clay banks, but with gravelly bottom, 30 feet wide, 2 feet deep; rapid. Shown on Michel’s and other maps as a tributary of the Didessa. Cattle and sheep plentiful and good grazing; the river is eastern limit of Dejaj Kumsa’s country.

Nekempti 24 177 After crossing the Wama, the road runs up a long narrow spur coming from W. shoulder of G. Tuka. G. Tuka is thickly wooded and precipitous, though round-topped. At 5 miles, a road to Leka branches W. up a broad valley formed by another branch of the Wama. The Leka plateau at the E. end appears steep-sided and thickly wooded. Leka is the head-quarters of Dejaj Damasi, and is said to be extremely fertile, producing much coffee. From the Leka road the track ascends more steeply; country well cultivated and thickly inhabited. Long, narrow, steep-sided spurs run S. from the water parting formed by the western end of G. Tuka. Water is plentiful. At 15 miles is a small village and church. Between this and Nekempti many small streams are crossed and ground is much broken. Nekempti is the residence of Dejaj Kumsa (called by Abyssinians Gabra Xiavrihir). He is a young Galla, a Christian, and has built himself a church. His ideas are advanced, and he has a garden for European plants, and is trying to improve the native coffee and cotton. His gibe is new and well built. There are several Arab merchants established here. The chief market is on Thursday, but there is a daily market.

Nekempti is on the watershed between the Wama and Angur, and to the N. the ground drops steeply to the wide flat Angur valley.

Sasiga 13 190 From Nekempti the road runs W., keeping near the watershed, which connects with the N. end of the Leka plateau. After about 5 miles it turns N.W., and several streams flowing N. are crossed. At the Sasiga market place on (Friday) G. Jimata there is a splendid view looking down into the Didessa valley, and across the Angur valley, towards the Limu hills; the Didessa and Angur valleys proper were, till recently, great elephant grounds up to the Abai. The elephants are now practically exterminated, and the ground is being brought under cultivation, though, as it is unhealthy, the people continue to live on the high ground.

Didessa R. 24 214 From Sasiga there is a very steep descent of 1,200 feet. Then the road is generally level, and crosses several streams before the L. Arso, where there is a fine camping ground at the 13th mile; thence there is a slight rise to the Tankara ridge, which is the eastern boundary of the Didessa ravine.

From this ridge the descent is very steep, winding, and rough to the Didessa, slopes thickly wooded. The Didessa is 150 yards (?) wide, 2 feet deep; current 2½ miles, stony bottom, beautiful water. Good camping place for a small party in dry season on W. bank.

Merechi 8 222 From the river the ascent of the W. side of the ravine begins at once. The road is very rough and bad, and ground on each side is covered with bamboo. The ascent is in three distinct stages, the last being much the worst, no attempt being made to grade it. Between the first and second stage the L. Jirma is crossed, and a small tributary of it is passed before the final stage.

Merechi, a small village, Saturday market, and Customs observation post. It is situated on the top of a ridge about 2½ miles behind the edge of the ravine. Between runs the Laga Jirma, and the valley is a good camping ground. This is the beginning of Walega.

Gimbi 12 234 The N. end of the Merechi ridge runs up to the escarp, which now begins to trend N.W. The plateau is very undulating and broken by confused narrow valleys. There is a considerable population, and the country is very fertile. At the 10th mile the Garsa ridge, running N. and S., is fairly well defined; otherwise the features are very confused. The Gallel stream, at 9th mile, is a good size, but water is everywhere plentiful. T. Jerko, a very sharp cone 30 miles to the S., is very conspicuous, and the road to Dejaj Goti’s country runs N. of it, through the Siva district. Gimbi is the residence of Fitaurari Amenti, uncle of Dejaj Kumsa.

Dungoro, L. Fincha 13 247 From Gimbi the general direction of the road alters and strikes N.N.W. towards Beni Shangul. The country continues well watered, cultivated, and populated, with the same confusion of narrow valleys. It passes through the small districts or townships of Siban (where Fitaurari Debaba, another uncle of Dejaj Kumsa, has a house), Aroji, and Dungoro. This latter is bounded on the S. by the L. Fincha, a considerable rocky stream, which is the last tributary of the Didessa crossed.