Volume 2 — CHAPTER VIII. (continued 2)

Um Doma 12 12

Monzuka 8¾ 20¾ Monzuka is reached, a small village, water obtained from tebeldi trees in small quantities, and about 2 miles further on we came to the remains of a village which was formerly called Um Banda. The nature of the country, throughout undulating, is a sandy plain covered with thorny bushes (not dense) and a few trees, and it remains so until at mile 42 one arrives at Um Sumaima, where there are tukls and people.

Um Sumaima 21¼ 42

Dudia 16 58 There are many fulas on both sides of Um Sumaima. The tebeldi trees give only a very limited supply of water, but I was told there was a village named Nethrea not far off in a southerly direction, where there was more than one well. After leaving Um Sumaima the road passes many fulas and khors, now quite dry. The bush becomes a little thicker and there are many more trees, but there is no difficulty in clearing. About 7½ miles from Um Sumaima you see traces of the old telegraph line in the shape of the bases of iron poles, one or two of which are still standing, but the majority are lying along the road. Trees are now numerous, and one reaches Dudia at mile 58. There are many tebeldi trees here, but there is no one living here now.

Huoi 13¼ 71¼ The trees are more numerous and the bush thicker here. Huoi like Dudia has many tebeldi trees, and there is a big fula, but there was no water in December. There is no village here now and no people.

Merkab 22 93¼ Continuing, the road passes Merkab, a village started this year (1903). Here there are many tebeldi trees and about 10 tukls. Chickens may be obtained here, but only, say, two at a time. The road here runs through a network of thorny, though small, trees, a good bit higher than a man on a camel, and it would be unpleasant travelling by night.

Manwissa 9 102¼ The thorny trees end before arrival at Manwissa, where there is a village, and the country is now covered with scattered trees and thin bush.

Um Farigh 5½ 107¾ Manwissa, Um Farigh, and Goda are in a district called Sheikh El Dud. All round here there are dukhn crops; water is obtained from tebeldi trees. These villages are small ones. Goda contains about 60 tukls, while 4 miles from Goda, Sudda, a small village, is reached, the face of the country remaining unchanged.

Goda 2½ 110¼

Sudda 4 114¼

Abu Dagal 1 115¼ Abu Dagal is reached shortly afterwards, and after ascending an elevation on which the trees are much more numerous, the road descends to Nahud. Water is obtained from wells, but some of it has very acid properties. This town is about the same size and of the same population as El Obeid. The country all round is open.

Nahud 15½ 130¾

96.—EL OBEID to NAHUD, viâ ABU ZABBAT.

By Captain W. Lloyd, April and October, 1900, and Captain C. H. Townsend, 1901 and 1902.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

El Obeid — — The S.W. road is taken. Good track, little bush. Plenty of grazing. Country slightly undulating. Sandy soil.

Abu Haraz 25 25 Small village. Wells in the khor. Pools of water last till end of October. There are some in the old town and some in the khor. Latter are best. Good shade. Leaving the village the bush becomes thicker, but there is a good track.

Um Geiga 7 32 One bad well situated on the side of a wide khor. A mile down this khor is Um Gurus. Here there are three wells which generally contain enough water for 30 camels. The sand in the khor is very soft. Leaving Um Geiga the track ascends at first. Bush thick, many tebeldi trees about.

Khor Sulfan 10 42 A wide shallow khor. Bush very thick. This khor should be crossed by daylight if possible. The track now becomes good, and the bush, though thick, does not interfere with transport.

El Saata 18½ 60½ A ruined Hamar village. Many tebeldis about, some of which have been used for storing water. Old wells.

The country now becomes nearly level, and is covered with ebony trees. Good shade when in leaf, but none in the hot weather. White ants swarm.

Um Galb 22 82½ A small village on the edge of a swamp. The village and wells are 1 mile to the S. of the road. Water plentiful. The track now passes along a ridge of red sand.

Abu Zabbat 6 88½ A Hamar and Bederia village on the sandy hill. To the S. is a large swamp in which are the wells, 25 to 30 feet deep. Water usually plentiful. Much dura cultivation. Small suk. Many cattle, sheep, and goats. Good rest house.

It is very difficult to find one’s way out of the village, and a local guide should be taken until the main road is reached, as tracks lead in all directions. The track bears N.W.

Um Dugran 5 93½ A small village; much cultivation about, chiefly dukhn. The track crosses several khors, but none are bad.

J. Howawag 32 125½ A low hill on the S. side of the road.

Um Regulti 6 131½ A small Hamar village, only occupied during the rains. No well. There is a good deal of hashab bush about. Further on arad trees are met, they have no thorns.

Um Genglit 8 139½ A similar village to Um Regulti.

J. Wad Abu Agala 4 143½ A few low hills to the N. of the track.

Nahud 10½ 154 For description, see Routes 19, 30, and Vol. I, Chap. VIII.

97.—EL OBEID to EL EDDAIYA, viâ SUNGIKAI.

By Captain W. Lloyd, April, 1900; and Captain C. H. Townsend, E. Surrey Regiment, 1901.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

El Obeid — — For route El Obeid to Sungikai, vide Route 17.

Sungikai 72 72 The track, which is good, leaves the wells in a south-westerly direction. The country is fairly level, but much cut up by khors. Low rocky hills are seen on all sides. The bush on both sides is thick, but horses can move without much difficulty. Many of the hills, now deserted, show signs of former Nuba occupants.

J. Kudr 16½ 88½ A Nuba village on the hill. Water on the hill and in a well at the foot. The track now winds between many hills.

J. Saboi 7½ 96 Nearly due W. of J. Kudr. A Nuba village on the hill. Three wells and some pools. No supplies were obtainable. The bush becomes thick in places.

J. Kasha 14 110 Large Nuba village on the hill. A plentiful supply of indifferent water from wells, about one mile from the village. The inhabitants are fairly well off and some of them go to the suk at Abu Zabbat. The men carry spears and rifles; they have a number of the latter.

J. Shifr 6½ 116½ A Nuba hill. Water plentiful in wells in the khor on the N. side of hill, and has much improved. Good camp. The bush continues bad all the way to Kubgr.

El Sinut 21 137½ A depression of black soil. On the borders are many Messeria camps. In the rains the depression is a swamp, covered with long grass and ambach. Sunt trees abound. There are many wells about 40 feet deep, which are used in summer. There is a small market. During the rains the people wander off to places where there are rain pools and cultivate.

El Seneita 9 146½ The track runs S.W., leaving the village to the N., and a swamp, similar to El Sinut, containing the wells, to the S. The village is on high ground and on sandy soil. Track leads S.S.W. through very thick bush.

Toto 17½ 164 A swamp, similar to El Sinut. Many wells 30 to 40 feet deep, giving a plentiful supply of water. Good shade, some gullum. Many Messeria camps about. Bush thick and the cotton soil much cracked in places. The track now turns N.W. for two miles and then W. Some cultivation is passed belonging to a small Messeria village, Ardeb by name, which lies to the N. of the track.

J. Kubgr 17 181 There are many wells on the N. side of the hill, though only two on the S. side. From here the following jebels are visible, they are all close and under Mek Abu Dugal of Kubgr:—J. Shenshal, J. Abu Gerein, J. Umbosha, and J. Seigo. To the N. of the hill, and about two miles from it, is a Beni Fadl village named Shallo. The people drink from J. Kubgr. There is a direct road from Kubgr, viâ Shallo, to Nahud.

El Eddaiya 30 211 A collection of villages, all under an Omda, Safi Negm El Din, by name. The main village, which is the largest, is close to the wells, which are numerous and lie in a depression, and give a plentiful supply of water at a depth of from 10 to 30 feet, small hand-wheels being used to draw it up. There are many good gardens here and, at certain seasons, a plentiful supply of vegetables is obtainable. The population is very mixed, there being Homr, Hamar, Messeria, Bederia, also some Dongolawis and Jaalin. The Homr belong chiefly to the Felaita section, and they have several villages, the chief of these being Mumu, about 12 miles W. of El Eddaiya. There is a Bashibazuk post of 50 men here, and a small market. This is the starting point for the Bahr El Arab, Dar Jangé, Dar Fertit, and Shakka. Traders going S. and W. from here proceed on donkeys and cattle, camels being little used.

98.—EL OBEID to KERAIA (J. TAGALE), viâ JEBEL DAIER.

By Captain J. R. O’Connell, the King’s Shropshire Light Infantry, and Captain W. Lloyd, the Scottish Rifles, January, 1900; with Additions from El Kaimakam J. Butler Bey’s Reports in 1901.

There is no difficulty with regard to grazing or firewood on this road, but camels cannot be watered between El Obeid and El Rahad. The country S. of El Rahad is practically impassable to camels as soon as the rains commence.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

El Obeid — — Leaving the Mudiria, there is a good track over level ground to the S. end of J. Deigo. Bush never thick, but after the rains the going is bad in places.

J. Deigo 8 8 Small fula at S. end. Water does not last after November. Track now turns nearly S. and bush becomes thicker. Several large deep khors. J. Kordofan on W. of track. There is a pool on top of northern peak which lasts till April (i.e., in 1901).

J. El Sofaia 10 18 Left to E. of track; bush bad and continuous, so to El Rahad.

J. Um Dubabat or El Ein 2 20 On W. of track. There is a crack in the rock near the road which always contains water, said to come from a spring, but by the hot weather water becomes somewhat foul. The country is flat, bush thick, and there are several deep khors.

Arab cemetery 12 32 By the side of a khor.

Khor Um Dagergur 10 42 A broad, shallow khor, which must be very swampy in the rains.

El Rahad 5½ 47½ Near the lake the road divides in two. That to the E. leads to the villages of Sheikh Adam Maznuk, a Gowama. The villages are large and have a small market. The lake is about 2 miles wide and 5 miles long. When it is dry (as it was in January, 1900) wells are dug in the bottom.

Regela 5 47 The road to the W. is the main track and passes through Regela, and near the remains of one of Hick’s forts. Several large khors are crossed.

Khor Abu Habl 9½ 56½ Is 50 feet wide and 2 feet deep, but the banks are flooded in the rains, and it is said to be impassable at times.

Egeria (in Jebel Daier) 4 60½ A Dabab village, situated in a khor in J. Daier. The entrance closed by high stone walls—now broken—near the khor. Three hellas, and a small market. Wells in the khor, inside the wall. Plenty of water.

Leaving the village the track crosses several khors; bush thick and between high hills.

Kitra 4 64½ A small village buried in the hills. The entrance is between rocks hardly wide enough for a loaded camel. Gowamas and Nubas. Wells inside the village. Cultivation: dura on plain outside.

Moving near the foot of the hills the bush continues thick.

Sitra 5½ 70 A village built on the side of the hills. Good wells with more than enough water for 100 camels. J. Daier is now left, and the track bears E.S.E. over level country, much cut up by khors, many of which are 10 feet deep. The bush is very thick in places. J. Tagale is seen ahead.

Kodi 24½ 94½ After crossing several low hills and some cultivation, Kodi is reached. The village is on the top of a hill which commands an excellent view in all directions. The wells are in a khor S. of the village, but large parties of animals have to go to a pool 5 miles S. W., where 100 camels watered without any effect on the supply. The track there is very bad, being over a rocky path through bush.

The road continues to be much broken by khors. It goes between high hills and through bad bush, and 9 miles on becomes so bad that it is necessary to dismount and lead the camels for ½ mile.

Morat 16 110½ A small Nuba village buried in the hills. One bad well with little water. J. Abu Dom is seen to the E.

Path crosses many khors and wanders about through thick bush; Senadre and Julia are left to the W. Khor Julia, 20 feet deep, with steep banks, has to be crossed.

Ruri 11 121½ The track now ascends some 200 feet over sheet rock and then descends among boulders. This took 200 camels an hour and a half to cross.

Duris 1 122½ A small hella on the side of the hill.

Keraia (J. Tagale) 2½ 125 On descending on to the plain the track passes over level country covered with thick bush. It bears almost due S., and suddenly turns W. into a large cove, the entrance to which is between narrow rocks. There is a good camping ground inside and fair wells. The village and market is up the hill. Keraia is a large place. Mek Geili has a large and well-built house there. There are also springs of water near the top of the hill. The camels, however, had to be sent to some wells in a big khor 7 miles further S., as these springs only give enough water for the inhabitants.

99.—KERAIA to RASHAD, and thence to J. GEDIR.

As far as Rashad, by Captain J. R. O’Connell and Captain W. Lloyd, January, 1900; Remainder by El Kaimakam J. Butler Bey, March, 1902.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Keraia (J. Tagale) — — Leaving the wells at the bottom of the hill the road turns south along the foot of the hills, crossing many small khors flowing westwards. Much dura cultivation seen near.

Khor 6 6 A large khor, 50 yards wide, coming out of the hills and turning north-east. A mile up this khor are several good wells. Watered 250 camels there.

The road now enters a narrow valley; thick jungle for 3 miles, and then ascends a steep hill. Camels have to be led. Hill terraced for cultivation; now deserted (1900); signs of elephant. Ground stony in places. Many khors, but not difficult to cross. High trees shut out all view. Nine miles from the khor descends a hill, and the road crosses a series of ridges and khors. Much bush.

Khor El Fedala 13 19 A deep khor. Camel corps had to dismount. Ridges and khor continue, but track improves.

Mernia 6 25 Ruined village. Two wells, good water. Jebel of same name near. Road passes between J. Mernia and J. Abu Shok on to a level plain. J. Rashad seen due west.

Rashad 6 31 Large Nuba village in a valley; both ends closed by strong sangars. Water quite near the surface in January, 1900, but dirty; watered 200 camels. In February, 1902, water was very foul. Good shade and grazing. Road turns south; rocky in places.

J. Tendik 15 46 Head-quarters of District. Nubas. Well at foot of hill, road to east of jebel. Fair track.

J. Turum 9½ 55½ Track crosses jebel; very bad going. Well. Nubas and Kenana Arabs. Fair going. Four or five miles on a large forest of deleib palms is entered and continues to Gurun.

J. Gurun 20 75½ Well and village of Kenana Arabs. Track passes by many disused wells. Very stony in places.

Khor Wad el Hileisa 25 100½ Flows south-east. Good track to village north-west of J. Gedir, leaving J. Girada, inhabited by Kenana Arabs, to the east. Then very bad track to Mek Bosh’s village, south of J. Gedir. Two wells.

J. Gedir 26 126½ Village protected by sangars.

From Rashad to J. Gedir there is nowhere enough water for 200 camels.

100.—KAKA (KARWA) to J. GEDIR.

By Colonel B. Mahon Bey, D.S.O., 8th Hussars, October, 1899.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Karwa — — Site of camp on left bank White Nile just S. of Kaka. Good camping ground S.E. of village.

The track leaves the river and runs practically W.N.W., but winds greatly through trees, bush, scrub, and high grass, which requires clearing for camel transport or guns.

6½ 6½ Track continues W.N.W. over a very extensive shadeless plain, covered with grass 3½ to 5 feet high, but not thick. Until beaten down or burnt, this grass makes marching difficult for infantry.

Domat, or Domaia, or El Zeif 8 14½ There has been a lot of water at Domat, but it is now (Oct.) practically dried up.

At Domat there are two or three groups of dom palms, which show up well and can be seen for a long distance. From here the hills of Kau and Niaro can be seen bearing about 275° magnetic.

From Domat, for the next 6¾ miles, there is no track, but, if from the largest group of dom palms on left of track you march due W. magnetic after going about 2 miles, a thick clump of dark green bush is seen on the skyline at about 3½ miles distant, and on the same bearing. A few degrees to the right of the clump, the hill of Fungor can be seen from the same point.

Mohabia or Hobobia 5¾ 20¼ Beyond Mohabia, the above-mentioned clump of bush, J. Fungor cannot be seen again until you arrive within about 2 miles from it, except from one point, viz.: Sahab.

From Domat to the commencement of the forest a plain is crossed covered with grass from 3 to 5 feet high. From Mohabia on, the track is again visible through grass, as before.

At 22¾ miles the edge of the forest is reached. Track winds through forest and undergrowth, the latter not very thick. Timber much injured by fire. No good shade.

Sahab 4½ 24¾ There was water till recently here; now (Oct.) dried up. J. Fungor visible bearing 275° magnetic.

Track through forest as before.

Safa, or Sufa 8¾ 33½ Fine trees giving excellent shade at Safa. Two pools of water in sandstone rocks; one is 27 yards long by 16 yards wide, and 9 inches deep, the other, circular, 20 yards in diameter, and 9 inches deep. If the water remains as at present, enough to water all our animals.

Path continues distinctly marked and through forest without much undergrowth except where one or two grassy khors are crossed. Very good ground for marching.

Within 1 mile of Fungor, country has been cleared for cultivation, and there is some dura and high grass.

J. Fungor 12 45½ Very good camping ground N.E. of the centre hill and close to the water.

Several large tanks of good water were found besides several smaller ones of still better water amongst the rocks on the hill side. With the assistance of a heavy thunderstorm the water supply was ample for two battalions, 500 cavalry, and some Camel Corps and transport for 3 or 4 days in October, 1899. In fact no impression was made on it.

The village is situated on the E. side of the central hill, which is about 350 feet high. The hill is very steep and difficult to ascend with boots. The inhabitants are almost all Nubas. Mek’s name Khalil. There are also some Aulad Hameid under Sheikh Idris.

For the first 2 miles the path winds through high grass and very thick bush, crossing one small khor, containing water from previous night’s rain. The bush is of low sunt, and was evidently once a clearing.

2 47½ The path passes to the right of some low rocky hills, after which the forest opens out, and the trees, chiefly heglig and acacia, are bigger. The soil is sandy, grass very low, and little undergrowth.

2½ 50 At about 4½ miles the track is opposite the S.E. end of the Kau range, which is a ½ mile on the right. Country fairly open; going very good.

Kau 2½ 52½ The village of Kau is on the W. slope of J. Kau. It contains about 500 inhabitants. Nubawi blacks; neither men nor women are clothed. Most of the houses are built high up amongst the rocks. Water obtainable from crevices on the rocky hillside. A good many dom palms near the village. A space of about 10 feddans to W. of hill was formerly cleared, but is now overgrown with small dom palms, about 4 feet high. After leaving Kau, the track winds through open forest, the trees improve in size, and more tropical plants are seen. Large numbers of bamboos, of apparently very good quality, grow in clusters along the small khors. Soil light and sandy.

5¾ 58¼ Nearly 6 miles from Kau the soil becomes heavy clay, and the grass is higher. The path winds a good deal, and is full of holes caused by subsidence after rain. It would be necessary to clear a track for guns or transport for the next 1¼ miles, after which the path improves and the going is sounder.

Shag el Hagar 3¼ 61½ Here there are two large rocks; the higher, about 50 feet in height, commands a good view; the lower, about 12 feet high, contains a large supply of water in four large and several small natural tanks, three of these are each about 60 feet long and 6 feet to 10 feet wide, and vary in depth from 2 feet to 4 feet. The fourth is 150 feet long and 9 feet wide, and from 4 feet to 6 feet deep. The water is excellent; 550 men and 420 horses were watered twice in 36 hours at these tanks and made little apparent difference in the supply. As there is no catchment area, except the surface of the rock, it looks as if the tanks were fed by springs. Should the source of supply be capable of giving more water, the amount retained could be easily increased by building a small dam across the end of the large tank, which would increase the depth to 9 feet. One of the other tanks could be similarly treated, but the result would not be so great. Horses must be watered from buckets.

Country around is covered with fairly open forest of good-sized trees, with a little undergrowth. No bamboos were noticed after this.

For about 3 miles the track continues through forest. At 19 miles it reaches a large open glade about 2 miles wide, with very few trees, and with grass 3½ feet high. It is apparently a clearing made at some time by fire. Track then continues through open forest of very fine trees, many of which are tabeldi (Adansonia).

Khor Goz El Tabeldi 7¼ 68¾ On this occasion, owing to the recent rain, there was sufficient water in this khor to water the men and horses, but water cannot be counted on. Country remains open; trees scattered, but sufficient for shade. Grass 5 feet to 8 feet high.

Khor El Waja 4¾ 73½ This is a grassy khor, about ¼ mile wide, quite dry, but said to hold water during rains. It is intersected by narrow water channels, 3 feet to 6 feet deep. The khor, whose soil is black clay, would be a serious obstacle to troops in the rainy season, and would, I think, be impassable for guns and transport while in flood.

Khor Melisa 1 74½ This is a sandy khor about 17 yards wide, with steep banks 10 feet to 14 feet deep, said to come from J. Girada. In the rains it must be a considerable obstacle. The country continues open, but with grass from 6 feet to 8 feet high, to within 2¾ miles of Gedir, when a belt of thick acacia and kittr scrub, 1¾ miles in width, is crossed. For guns or pack animals, it would be necessary to clear a path through this belt.

About 1½ miles from Gedir, the sandy khor, Gedad, 8 feet wide and 6 feet to 8 feet deep, said to come from J. Girada, is crossed. The last ¾ mile to Gedir is open ground with few scattered trees.

J. Gedir 7¾ 82¼ A rocky horseshoe-shaped hill, estimated altitude above the plain 600 feet. The village is on the re-entrant. Near the gorge are two wells about 80 feet deep, with a little water. No other water was seen. There are about 500 inhabitants. Many of the men have rifles. They are not naked like those of Kau, and appear to be a cross between Arabs and Nubas.

The Mahdi’s Stone is a large boulder up the slope of the hill, outside of, and about ½ a mile from the northern heel of the horseshoe, and on the way to Girada, of the same colour as the surrounding rocks, and shaded by a heglig tree, which may account for the Mahdi’s partiality for it. No cultivation was seen, but the inhabitants said they had some dura fields ripening.

Jebel Girada appears to be 5 to 7 miles distant. It is said to have a plentiful water supply.

101.—EL OBEID to DAR EL JANGE.

By Major E. B. Wilkinson, January and February, 1902.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

El Obeid — — Leaving the Mudiria, the road runs in a S.S.W. direction, and at 1½ miles distance further on reaches the southern edge of the El Obeid basin, and low acacia bush and an occasional baobab tree take the place of dukhn cultivation.

Track to El Atshan Wells 5 5 At 5 miles distance from El Obeid, a broad track runs in a S.W. direction to El Atshan wells, which are situated in Khor Fertangul, 22 miles from El Obeid.

The road to El Merekib continues in the same direction, viz., S.S.W., and one passes through the same kind of bush with sandy soil until the village is reached. The inhabitants consist of Bederia and Ghodiat Arabs.

El Merekib 5 10 There is a well here, but the supply of water is very small. Dukhn is cultivated around the village.

J. Fertangul 6½ 16½ The road continues in a S.W. by S. direction until J. Fertangul is reached. There are two small hills of the same name; one E. of the road, and 6½ miles distant from Merekib, and the other on the W. of the road, and 8 miles distant from Merekib. The crest of latter is crowned with white limestone.

1½ 18

Khor Fertangul 1 19 One mile from the hill, Khor Fertangul with wells in its bed is reached.

5 24 Khor.

Khor Kashgil 1½ 25½ Khor Kashgil with good shade and grazing.

El Edeidat 9¾ 35½ Here road changes direction to S.S.E., and runs through thick bush for 9¾ miles until khor crosses road; this place is known as El Edeidat. There are two wells in khor. (Plenty of water March, 1904.)

Hella Abdel Samad 5 40¼ Road runs S. from here, and 5 miles on a track runs S.E. to Hella Abdel Samad, which is about 1 mile off the main road.

El Birket 2¾ 43 One and three-quarter miles on road turns due W., and 1 mile on brings one to El Birket; there are two villages here consisting of Bederia Arabs who have a good deal of land under cultivation. Here there is a large lake or reservoir, which I am informed contains much water for eight months in the year, but owing to this year being exceptionally dry there was no water (February, 1902), and wells sunk in the centre 24 feet deep were also dry. The area of this reservoir is probably 2 square miles. Good timber and shade on the southern edge of the lake.

From here the road runs S.W. through thick bush, and the soil changes to black cotton soil.

El Edaiya Faki Yasin 7 50 The district known as El Edaiya commences, and Hella Beni Fadl is reached.

Um Seneina 2¾ 52¾ Hella Um Seneina.

Abu Habl 3¼ 56 Khor Abu Habl is reached at Sessaban. This district is inhabited by Bederia Arabs; each village has a certain amount of land cleared and under cultivation (dukhn). Khor Abu Habl is here about 15 to 20 yards broad, with high banks varying from 15 to 20 feet with good timber growing along them. A few wells are sunk at Sessaban, but the supply of water was not sufficient to allow of animals being watered (8.1.02).

Um Sessaban

H. El Daruta 3½ 59½ H. El Daruta (Bederia), J. Belgulti and Fainar visible from here.

2 61½ Track runs W., and

H. Balamat 1 62½ Hella Balamat is reached.

Kururra 2½ 65 Khor Abu Habl is again struck at Kururra well, which is situated under a very fine gemmeiza tree, and gives a large quantity of water.

Well, 80 feet to water, and there was 20 feet of water in it. Kururra village ½ mile E. of well, Bederia, also water at this well. Hawazma Arabs.

Sungikai 3 68 Wells of Sungikai—four in number, 72 feet deep in khor; banks of khor 10 to 15 feet high. Large population of Hawazma Arabs.

Sungikai village 1½ miles N.W.

From Sungikai village a much used road runs N.N.W. to El Obeid, passing through El Atshan wells in Khor Fertangul, distance 48 miles.

Zeriba El Aguz or H. El Birgid 2½ 70½ Leaving Sungukai wells, one enters a very rich district. Road runs S.W., and 2½ miles H. El Birgid (Bederia) is reached, and villages occur almost every mile till El Nila is reached. There is much cultivation in this district; the inhabitants (Hawazma) possess many cattle, and N. of Nila there is excellent timber.

El Nila 5½ 76 At El Nila there are six wells, average 42 feet deep, giving excellent supply of water, and many hundreds of cattle, sheep and goats water there daily. Fine gemmeiza, sunt, haraz, and heglig trees. Four to five Arab (Ferikgs) or settlements. Khor 20 yards between banks, which in places are 22 to 25 feet broad. All along bank there is very good timber.

Leaving El Nila wells in a S.S.E. direction, there is an excellent and much used road to J. Watta, distant 30 miles, first 10 miles good shade, after that none.

J. Dilling[32] 15 91 Leaving El Nila, road runs S.W. and after 13 miles through forest of heglig and talh, and over cotton soils bring one to J. Dilling, consisting of a group of hills; thickly populated by Nubas who build their little conical huts in groups in suitable recesses among the boulders high up in the hills.

½ 91½ Half a mile S.W. wells in khor; khor 25 to 30 yards broad; good shade and grazing; good camp ground.

J. Abu Sebah 4 95½ Four miles S.W. is J. Abu Sebah, a small rocky hill ½ mile from khor along which there is a small population of Hawazma Arabs, who have dug wells, four in number, in khor, depth 21 feet to water. Deleib palms were first seen between Dilling and this, and the country intervening is cleared and cultivated.

From J. Abu Sebah road to Gulfan runs S.E. over cotton soil for first four miles. Open bush and then talh, heglig bush, &c.

J. Samasen 15 110½ J. Samasen is passed, and

4 114½ Four miles on, one reaches the foot of hills where soil becomes more gravelly, and contains a lot of detritus and broken rock, which makes going harder for camels. The road trends S. and then W., winding over spurs from the main hills and passing over large areas which are cultivated with dura, eventually entering between the hills crowned with many Nuba villages and Gulfan is reached.

J. Gulfan 3 117½

Here there was very little water. Wells mere holes 6 feet to 8 feet, and having a very slow yield. Hills are here terraced to the top, and dura grown in large quantities. The terraces are most carefully made and walls of stone are built.

From Gulfan the road runs W. over rock, and going is bad, as one is continually ascending and descending spurs.

2 119½ Two miles after leaving, wells (mere holes in the ground, about 6 feet deep) are passed, the road now running between two ranges of hills, and there is an Arab settlement. J. Tarda is left on the N. and J. Watta 4 miles N.E., and road turns S. and S.W., following the contour of the southern range of hills, and ½ mile on a road branches, running N.E. to J. Watta, which is inhabited by Nubas and Arabs.

J. Tarda 1 120½

½ 121

The road to J. Watta runs N.E. through thick bush for 4½ miles, and crosses a khor close to the hill. There are many wells, but most give very little water which, however, is of good quality. The road to Kadaro and El Obeid from S. passes through here; and also there is an excellent road to Nila, running N.N.W. through talh and jungle. This road is greatly used by Hawazma Arabs, who migrate N. annually. Six miles after leaving J. Watta, J. Tungul is left on E., 3 miles off road, and at 16 miles J. Dilling el Khulla is passed, 1 mile W. of road. No shade for 20 miles, then good shade and grazing; total distance to Nila 30 miles.

Katta 2½ 123½ Nuba village Katta is passed, and there is an Arab settlement close by. Much dura is cultivated. J. Sheibun and Um Heitan is visible.

2 125½ A large rocky hill with jagged crest; low bush, no shade. Here road runs S.S.W., and 2¼ miles on khor is passed which had water in a hole under S. bank on 21.2.02. Road continues in same direction and the country is very much the same as before, talh and heglig, only the soil is more gravelly until Khor Debri and Debri wells, 6 feet deep, are reached. Leaving Debri wells, where there is a small hill, road runs S.W. for 2 miles, and ¾ mile further S.

2¼ 127¾

9½ 137¼

J. Debri 2¾ 140 J. Debri, with village (Nuba) of the same name is passed. Here much land is cleared and dura cultivated at the foot of hills.

J. Kega 2 142 Two miles south of Debri road bends to W., skirting the foot of the hills, and J. Kega Tummero is reached. This is a large conical hill, part of W. chain of other features, and up the sides of which the Nubas have built their huts, some situated right on the top, at the foot of which and in the re-enterants are also many huts belonging to them and also Arabs. There is a well here but the water is very bad.

Khor Kega 2 144 Two miles on Khor Kega is reached, which flows from J. Kega el Abiad and Kega Libu. There are six wells in bed of khor, which is 20 yards wide, 6 to 8 feet deep; water good and abundant, good shade and grazing. Much dura is cultivated in the plain, and there is an Arab (Hawazma) settlement. Crossing Khor Kega road runs roughly S. over cotton soil with talh and heglig forest, and at 3½ miles Khor El Kuek is crossed.

Khor El Kuek 3½ 147½

Hella Daud 12 159½ Eleven miles on Hella Daud, 35 to 40 huts belonging to Hawazmas, who cultivate dura and have much ground cleared. From here to S.W. the Miri range and J. Demik and Kega Heg El Kheil are visible. Water is transported from wells in a khor E. of village at the foot of J. Tesein Dhanat.

J. Kadugli 7 166½ After continuing S. through the same kind of forest and crossing many small watercourses which flow W. from the hills, the road skirts the foot of J. Musta, and Kadugli is reached. Here there is a population of Nubas and Hawazma Arabs. The Mek of the Nubas is named Rehal, and he exercises power over all the surrounding hills. The whole of this range of high hills containing J. Tesem Dhanab, J. Musta and J. Kadugli, is known by the name of El Goghub. J. Sabori, to the W., is also inhabited.

From KADUGLI to KEILAK.

Khor Kadugli ½ 167 Leaving the camp at the foot of J. Kadugli one proceeds W. and ½ mile on brings one to the khor of the same name. Here there are three groups of wells. (1) ¾ mile W. of Arab village there are a group of some half a dozen wells, principally used by Arabs. (2) Central group, live wells 6 feet deep, used by Nubas. (3) 1 mile down stream and S., two wells 6 feet deep, used by the Mek’s immediate household; all give a good supply of water. There is very good grazing all along the khor. Much dura cultivated.

J. Kaffari 2 169 J. Kaffari is passed S. of road which runs W. through much dura cultivation and along the banks of Khor Kadugli, which rises in Miri range. Road passes now between low range of hills, and continues W. by S. for 5 miles through level plain covered with heglig, talh, and haraz forest, with clearings for dura cultivation, with the hills close in on either side forming a narrow gorge scarcely 200 yards wide, down which runs a khor some 10 to 15 yards broad. The ground being rocky it is very bad going for camels and bulls.

1 170

5 175

¾ 175¾

Gorge turns abruptly S., and road continues on through pretty scenery in a W. direction over a rocky saddle-back, and then one gradually descends into a valley in which a large and important khor rises which feeds Lake Keilak, and enters the Bahr El Arab. Water here obtained by digging in the sand in bed of khor.

Plain surrounded by green vegetation; good timber, and there is much land cleared for dura cultivation. The hills are terraced to the tops and dura grown on them.

Tuluk 5 180 Tuluk, the abode of Mek Hamed Abu Sekin, is reached, and there are many groups of villages in the surrounding hills; some low down near the foot, others perched high up near the crests. Here, surrounded on all sides by hills, is a large open area of ground with water within 2 feet of the surface, probably 1½ square miles of rich soil, which, if only tilled, would grow almost everything. The Nubas only require dura, however.

J. Kufa 3 183 Leaving Tuluk the track runs along side of khor, which now runs S.W., and 3 miles on J. Kufa, with several large villages, is passed. Here roads divide; one, following khor, passes through plain much cultivated with dura by the Nubas of J. Kufa, Lima, and Kania. The khor here is walled across at intervals with large stones to hold back the water in the rains. Khor emerges from the hills at J. Kania.

J. Abu Sinun 2 185 The second road runs S.S.W. to J. Abu Sinun, where there are two Nuba villages under Mek Zakharia, and a Homr (Felaita) village. Water obtained from khor.

J. Kanga 3 188 Three miles W. is J. Kanga, the southern side of which hill is fortified by a 6-feet stone wall, crowned by a zeriba to guard the Nubas from raids by the Homr Arabs. The huts are high up the hill. Khor emerges here between two hills, and is now 20 to 25 yards broad; well 4 to 6 feet in khor; water good. Looking S. about 20 miles off are two hills, and beyond as far as the eye can reach to the S. and W. is a dead level plain covered with forest. From J. Kanga, road runs W. and S.W., and for 1½ miles there is dura cultivation.

1 189 Khor crosses road, and cotton soil takes the place of rocky decomposed gravel. The forest is of larger growth—talh and heglig, and the tracks of animals which have struggled through the deep mud that exists in the rains become visible.

3½ 192½ Road again crosses khor, and long grass hinders any view.

2½ 195 Road crosses outlet from Lake Keilak, which now becomes visible, and then goes due W. for two miles when Keilak is reached.

Keilak 2 197 Keilak is a series of groups of tukls badly built and inhabited by Homr Arabs who possess few flocks, a few horses, and appear to live on the Nubas.

The limits of the lake are very difficult to determine, as for 2 miles on N.E. and N. sides long grass 8 feet high hides all view, but from what can be observed by riding round the length was computed to be 4 miles and the breadth 2 miles. On 22.1.02, there was a very large expanse of open water, and the natives reported it to be considerably over a man’s height in depth. In order to reach the open water one has to wade through a broad fringe of green grass and lilies. Soil surrounding lake excellent, rich soil and water could be found a mile from edge, 6 feet below surface. The forest on S. and W. sides very good, and there are some really fine timber trees.

2 199 Leaving Keilak road runs N. for 2 miles then S.S.E., and numerous Arab settlements are passed situated along the outlet of the lake.

El Geref 4½ 203½ 4½ miles El Geref; Homr settlement; here there is water in any quantity, 8 paces broad with grass and water-lilies covering the surface. Water 1 to 2 feet deep in places. Current very slight; Arabs clear spaces and fence them round for fish to collect in.

1¼ 204¾ Road then goes S.W. for 1¼ miles, then S.S.E. for 2½ miles over a broad swamp, dry at date of crossing (25.1.02), but covered with long grass and pitted with elephant tracks, which were terrible pitfalls for the baggage animals. After crossing this bit of country, track runs S.W., along edge of bed of river, which was dry, and going became better, and when track ran on the slightly elevated edge of forest; the soil was sandy and going good until El Yoi was reached. Along immediate edge of river, forest very good. To the E. and W. away from river, talh and heglig forest and cotton soil.

2½ 207¼

El Yoi 20¾ 228

At El Yoi two pools were found, containing good water sufficient for our wants, but likely only to last for a few days. Ground here much cut up and intersected by small water channels, while soil was baked hard and cracked in all directions, making it most difficult for bulls and donkeys to travel. At El Yoi itself, good shade and fine trees; forest in neighbourhood and to S. consists of talh, and ground covered with long grass.

El Dirkoei 7¾ 235¾ Road continues S.W., and after 7¾ miles, El Dirkoei is reached; this place merely a reach of the river, which at the time contained a little water.

El Debekir 3½ 239¼ Three and a-half miles S.W., El Debekir was reached. Here there was an Arab (Homr) settlement; water in bed of river, 8 feet deep in places and covered with grass (27.1.02), but dry on 11.2.02.

13¾ 253 From Debekir road runs over black cotton soil very much fissured. W. by S. for 13¾ miles, then S.S.W. for 3 miles when heglig forest is entered and El Anga on river is reached. Here there is an Arab settlement, and there was a little water (28.1.02).

El Anga 3 256

Kuek 5½ 261½ Road now runs 1¾ miles S.W., and S. for 3¾ miles when Kuek is reached. Here the river is 50 yards broad, and the water was from 2 feet 6 inches to 4 feet deep, but covered with grass. Large Arab settlement and many cattle.

H. Debib 6 267½ Road runs S.W. for 6 miles, when H. Debib is passed; a few Homr Arabs living here; but in the rains there are many wells; one well 6 feet deep, water good.

General run of road now S.S.W. to S.

Fula Hamadai 3½ 271 Fula Hamadai with a little water sufficient to water animals on 30.1.02; but dry on 9.2.02. Small villages—mere collection of three or four huts passed at El Jaart and Um Geren.

Fut 11¾ 282¾ Eleven and three quarter miles from Fula Hamadai, village named Fut was passed. Country here more open and lower bush; going better, and road crosses river bed; dry and long grass.

Fauwel 4 286¾ Fauwel is reached. Large Arab settlement; much water in river, and an open expanse 1¾ miles surrounded by reeds. Geese and waterfowl. Homr Arabs here very wild, but possess many cattle, goats and sheep.

8¾ 295½ Road now runs 1 mile S.W. and 5¾ miles S.S.E. and strikes the river, then continues to run alongside of it for 2 miles, when the river takes a bend N.E. The river here is very broad, 300 yards in places and the water is 3 feet 6 inches deep, generally the surface is covered with grass and weeds, and very little open water is seen. The trees on bank are also much bigger.

Bahr El Arab 5 300½ The Bahr El Arab here has to be crossed, and this was done at a point where it was 120 yards broad, with water 3 to 3 feet 6 inches deep, the baggage bulls being unloaded and the baggage being carried across by hand. Bed of river very muddy.

From this point, which is known to the Arabs, as the district of Bara, the river flows S.S.E. as far as could be judged.

Track now runs S., and at 5 miles divides one running S.S.W. to the country of a Dinka chief called Rueng, the other S.S.W. leads over a wide plain covered with long grass and a few bushes; surface of ground much fissured and soil much cut up.

Country changes to forest after some miles.

Bongo 14¾ 315¼ The first Dinka village of Bombo is reached. This district is now known as Bongo, and 3 miles on, S.W., is one of the villages of Tehak, another of the same name being met 2½ miles on.

3 318¼

Tehak 2½ 320¾

These villages, neatly built, are used by the Dinkas in the rains and as long as the water lasts. At the present date, 2.2.02., all the inhabitants had left and were grazing their herds of cattle where grass and water were to be found.

Etai 2 322¾ Reached Etai, where the first Dinkas were met. Here there were large settlements, and the people were most friendly. A chief named Lor has his headquarters here. A large watercourse flows in from N.E. and meets another watercourse, the Regabet El Lau, which comes from N.W., and then joining runs into the Kir, or Bahr El Jange, in a southerly direction.

Kir, or Bahr El Jange 5½ 328¼ Road continues for 3 miles through forest S.W., then runs W. for 2½, miles, and the Kir River, or Bahr El Jange, is struck, as one reaches the settlements of Sultan Rob.

The river here is a most pleasant sight after the monotonous red talh forest and long grass, and is 80 yards broad now, 3.2.02., 12 to 15 feet deep, current 1½ miles an hour. Banks low but firm, with green rushes and grass along the edges. In the rains the banks are flooded and the river widens to 200 to 400 yards. There are a few dugouts here; the natives say that canoes can go in open water to the Bahr El Ghazal. Fish are plentiful, as are also crocodiles and hippos.

The district on N. bank is called Mareg. The district on S. bank is called Masian, and the Sultan Rob lives in the latter. Much dura is cultivated.

102.—RIVER KIR to FAUWEL.

By Major E. B. Wilkinson, January and February, 1902.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

2¼ — Leaving Sultan Rob’s settlement the road runs N.W., and the river is left on the left, but is struck again 2¼ miles on, and the path keeps along the left bank. The country here is all open, and much dura cultivated. Dinka dwellings are dotted about, and the country presents a most prosperous aspect.

Gohea 2¾ 5 Village of Gohea on river bank, which here has become overgrown with reeds, grass, &c. River here turns to N.W., and road now runs N.E. for 2¾ miles, then E. by N.

2¾ 7¾

1 8¾ One mile on Regabet El Lau, coming in from N. and running S.

El Niat 1¼ 10 The commencement of a large swamp, now dry, called El Niat, but covered with long grass, and going is very bad.

4½ 14½ End of El Niat.

1½ 16 Direction of road changes to N.

Gulmaia 9¼ 25¼ Gulmaia, a pool containing very bad water; almost dried up.

Abu Kareit 4 29¼ Abu Kareit, on Bahr El Arab. Homr settlement. River here 100 yards broad, with water 2 feet 6 inches deep covered with grass; river here flows E. and W.

Mellum 4¾ 34 Track follows river bank.

Mellum, an Arab settlement, with Khor Famai running in from N.

Regabet El Shaib 6½ 40½ River now flows W. by N., and 6½ miles on Regabet El Shaib; flows in the N. from river; now bends S.W., and enters district called Bara. Immediately at this point flows in Keilak El Yoi; and Fauwel flows in from N.E.

Fauwel 3¼ 43¾ From Regabet El Shaib road runs N.E., and another 3¼ miles N. brings one to Fauwel.

General Description of BAHR EL ARAB and DAR EL HOMR.

Immediately one emerges from the hilly country of the Nubas a vast level plain meets the eye, absolutely devoid of landmarks: the soil changes abruptly to rich black cotton soil with fissures, some so broad and deep that it is dangerous for bulls and donkeys, owing to their getting their legs jammed in the cracks. The surface of the land is uniformly covered with talh and heglig trees; occasionally tamarind and kau trees are met. Only two india-rubber trees were seen. The natives do not appear to know the use of these. The Bahr El Arab in section is very shallow, with no defined banks, and at this time of year water is more or less in pools. All the confluents are the same shallow watercourses, and the country appears to be one vast swamp in the rains. Only in a few places, Fauwel, Keilak, and Kuek, do the Homr Arabs remain throughout the year, as they say that the flies and mosquitoes torment men and beasts to such an extent as to make life unbearable.

103.—EL OBEID to SUNGIKAI, viâ EL ATSHAN and EL HAMADI.

By Deputy Inspector C. E. Lyall.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

El Obeid 5 5 After leaving El Obeid in a southerly direction, road divides, going S. to Mereikab and S.S.W. to El Atshan.

Road continues in S.S.W. direction, and thorn bush does not impede travelling; going generally good.

El Atshan 17 22 El Atshan wells are reached, 22 miles from El Obeid; quite dry—20.4.03.

Leaving El Atshan, road divides S.S.E. to Kadero, S.W. to El Hamadi; country generally open bush and good going. Two khors with fine timber are crossed.

El Hamadi 18 40 El Hamadi is reached 18 miles from El Atshan. On 20.4.03 there was a little water in shallow wells in khor; it took about 2 hours to get two burmas. On 5.6.03 there was no water.

El Nebag 7 47 Leaving El Hamadi, road goes S.W.; at first a good deal of thorn bush, till passing El Nebag, which is a depression with many magnificent trees and in which there is water in the rains. After passing El Nebag the road opens out, and the going is good and hard. After travelling 18 miles from El Hamadi, El Hagiz, a shallow khor with some good shade, is reached. Half a mile before reaching El Hagiz road is joined by road from Um (Girban) Durban.

Khor El Haigiz 11 58

Sungikai, H. Gaghgagh 12 70 Road continues in a S.W. direction till Sungikai is reached. The hella is 2 miles from the wells. Unlimited water.

N.B.—On El Obeid, Hamadi Sungikai road, except in rains, there is very little shade, except at El Atshan, Hamadi, El Nebag and Umhagiz.

104.—DILLING to EL OBEID, viâ SUNGIKAI, UM DURBAN and UM RAMAD.

By Deputy Inspector C. E. Lyall, June 1903 and March, 1904.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Dilling (Nuba) — — The road from Dilling to Sungikai soon after passing Jebel Dilling separates from the Dilling-Nila road and keeps W. of it. The general direction is N.E., the road is good going and fairly free from thorns. There are a few patches of black cotton soil; after 10 miles the road crosses the Khor Abu Habl,[33] and continues N.E. till Hellet Gad el Kerim is reached.

Gad El Kerim (Hawazma) 16 16

Sungikai (Zeriba El Aguz) 6 22 The inhabitants of this village drink from the wells at Nila, except during the rains, when they drink from pools in Khor Abu Habl. The road keeps up on the rising ground, passing numerous villages till the largest village in the immediate neighbourhood of Sungikai, Zeriba el Aguz, is reached.

Sungikai (H. Gaghgagh) 2 24 Leaving this village the road from Sungikai after being joined by roads from the numerous surrounding villages continues in a N.E. direction till El Hagiz is reached, ½ mile after passing which the road divides N.N.E. to Um Durban. The road, after passing to the W. of Zeriba el Aguz, goes H. Gaghgagh and thence to El Hagiz, where it divides W. to Um Durban and E. to El Hamadi.

Um Durban (Kenana) 24 48 The road is at first very winding with a good deal of shok, after about 6 miles it opens out, and continues fair till Um Durban is reached; where on 5.6.03, there was a little water from wells in khor; in March 1904, the water had dried up.

Leaving Um Durban the road goes N.E., after about 6 miles Hellet Kafawa is passed some 4 miles to the W. of the road.

Um Ramad (Bederia) 30 78 The road continues in the same direction N.E., the going being uniformly good and free from shok, except in a few depressions and khors till after some 24 miles, when the soil becomes heavy red sand, which continues till Um Ramad is reached. At this village there are numerous shallow wells and water holes, but they were quite dry on 6.6.03, but plenty of water 1.5.04. The people drink from Abu Haraz and Obeid. The road from Um Durban joins the Abu Haraz road ½ mile from Um Ramad.

After passing Um Ramad the road broadens out into a track about 15 feet wide, and continues in a N.E. direction till El Obeid is reached.

El Gika 5 83 Five miles after leaving Um Ramad, the first El Gika village is passed ½ mile to the left of the road. Plenty of water 1.5.04.

El Obeid 11 94 There are five villages at El Gika, each about a mile from the other; the road to El Obeid from El Gika runs parallel to the Abu Haraz-El Obeid road until it joins it about 3 miles from El Obeid. On this road from Sungikai there is very little shade, except at the villages.

105.—ROUTES IN DAR NUBA—SOUTHERN KORDOFAN.

By Captain C. H. Leveson, 18th (P.W.) Hussars, December, 1903-March, 1904.

(i.) Jebel Tendik to Lukka.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Tendik — — Large Nuba village of 1,200 people. Most of the village is built in a hollow about 600 feet up the jebel and on a ridge above it. Good water up on the mountain, also good below, where there is a garrison of half company 12th Sudanese. Quiet, peaceable people; much cultivation; sheep and goats, but not many cattle. A big khor runs along E. and S. of jebel, through dense deleib palms. The road runs nearly due S., and crosses the big khor at 2 miles—re-crossing it again almost at once.

— 5 A jebel about 30 feet high on W. Cross a ridge and a khor a mile further on. All good going over gravel.

1 6

1 7

1 8 Cross another khor, when road runs between parallel ridges of stony hills for 2¼ miles, when the Khor Sesaban is reached.

2¼ 10¼

J. Odam 1¼ 11½ A small hill, 400 feet on right. Cross Khor Ardeib, 8 feet deep.

Khor Ardeib 1½ 13

For 5½ miles there is a range of low hills on right of road and for the next 5½ a low range on left of road.

11 24 Cross a khor.

Khor Nueila 1 25 A mile further on, and the Khor Nueila is reached. The main channel about 15 feet deep and 30 yards wide. Beyond is a swampy track 600 yards across, with pools of water (December, 1903), biggest 100 yards long and 3 feet deep. Good clear water. Much game; tracks of lion and leopard. Hartebeeste and wart-hog seen. Elephants live about here in rains. After crossing swamp, track leads up on to higher ground, crossing a small khor, and at 1½ miles and further another khor.

1½ 26½

1½ 28

½ 28½ A small hill on right.

½ 29 Cross khor.

½ 29½ A hill on right, cross the Khor Id El Simoa, 6 feet deep, 30 yards wide.

1¼ 30¾ Small hill on right.

1 31¾ Cross Khor Jogham, 6 feet deep, 20 yards wide.

1 32¾ Small hill, J. Gelabi, on right.

Khor Hash Hashi 3¼ 36 A little water still standing in marshy ground behind main channel, which is 12 yards broad and 10 feet deep. Cross khor, and for 2½ miles there are low hills on left of road.

J. Thaba 4 40 J. Thaba on right of road, cone-shaped hill, with bald, smooth top, about 70 feet. A good landmark.

Khor Um Idara 3 43 Khor Um Idara, plenty of water here now. Tracks of lion. As usual, swarms of guinea fowl. Main channel 20 yards wide, 8 feet deep.

3½ 46½ Khor Um Aleik, shallow, broad, sandy khor.

J. Obni 1¼ 47¾ J. Obni, half a mile away on right of road.

¾ 48½ Khor Dabdub—small.

J. Doga ½ 49 J. Doga, 1 mile away on right of road—jagged top.

J. Lukka 3¾ 52¾ Road curves round to right in a wide sweep and enters valley at foot of mountain. (Described in Kologi-Lukka road.)

(ii.) J. Lukka to J. Errio.

J. Lukka — — Road leads N. out of valley for ½ mile, then curves to left along high ground on northern spurs of J. Lukka. Good going over gravelly ridges; by making short detours to right, at khors, all dismounting may be avoided. Much cultivation on right.

Khor Tuffa — 6 The Khor Tuffa 20 yards broad, 12 feet deep; must dismount here—quite dry. Road becomes stony after khor.

Errio 2 8 Village of Errio is reached after bending round sharp to left and crossing a “nek,” or “col.” Many cattle. Population, Kawahla Arabs crossed with Nubas. Population about 700, under Sheiks Badei Bakr and Abballa Adam. No rifles seen. Quiet people; do not raid. Plenty of dura.

Water plentiful but dirty. Best camp ½ mile beyond village to S.W., on Tira El Akhdar road.

(iii.) Route J. Errio to J. Talodi, viâ Tosi and J. Meselli.

J. Errio — — Road runs S.W. through thorn bush over cotton soil. Open country both sides; also cultivation.

0 5½ Pass small hill on right.

3 8½ Hillock ¼ mile away on left.

½ 9 Cross khor, 12 feet deep, 12 yards broad.

Tosi ½ 9½ Tosi village of about 500 Kawahla Arabs crossed with Nubas, under Sheikh El Fadl Didigair, lying at south end of small stony hill 400 or 500 feet high. Water supply poor. Supplies poor.

4½ 14 Road now passes between hills and drops down about 100 feet over an “agaba,” and leads through cotton soil for 1 mile to

Khor Kagala 2¾ 16¾ A broad shallow khor in thick bush. A hill about 300 feet high on right of crossing. Good going.

K. El Kirki 2¼ 19 Khor El Kirki—small.

J. Meselli 2 21 J. Meselli—on right.

K. Um Sinin 2 23 Khor Um Sinin; forest land.

K. Joghan 5 28 Khor Joghan; forest land.

½ 28½ Crosses ridge and drops down about 100 feet to

Amuti 1½ 30 300 yards on left of road several big pools of clear good water. Best watering place; better than Tosi and Talodi after February. Good going to

Um Dual 5½ 35½ A small hillock and (in January, 1904) a pool of clear water 120 yards long, 40 yards wide, 4 feet deep. No shade.

Cultivation by people of Talodi. About 1½ or 2 miles south is an odd needle-shaped rock some 200 feet high, visible for 20 miles round.

Road now leads through thick forest for 4 miles. Roan antelope seen.

4 39½ Cotton soil and light bush.

K. Abu Um Jamad 1 40½ The Khor Abd Um Jamad no obstacle in dry weather. Cultivation begins again.

Talodi (Tebeldia) 3 43½ The village of Tebeldia, at E.N.E. corner of Talodi, is passed. It lies a mile away in valley to right.

Talodi (Felaita) 1 44½ Village of Felaita and barracks of half company 12th Sudanese.

J. Talodi is a rugged precipitous mountain, about 1,300 feet high and 28 miles in circumference. On its eastern face is a valley running a short way into mountain (village of Felaita in opening), which is said to communicate by a rough path, known as “Darb El Haramia,” with a corresponding valley on the western face.

There are three villages, all nominally under the head sheikh, an old man called Sherif Wad Abu Omo:—

Tebeldia, population 800, Sheikh Mamun.

Felaita, „ 2,200, „ Abdalla Shamsham.

Ageira, „ 800, „ Shanna Wad El Aris.

The last named village lies some 7 miles away to the S.W. of the mountain. The inhabitants are descendants of freed and escaped slaves of the Homr. There is a small colony of true Nubas at the south end of the mountain.

They used to be notorious for their success in raiding. They possess about 300 or 400 rifles. Cultivation insufficient for their own needs. Water supply poor. They begin to trade for grain in February with the Nubas of J. Moro, at Kororak.

Half company 12th Sudanese and Mamuria at Felaita.

(iv.) J. Errio to J. Talodi, viâ Tira El Akhdar, Tira Mandi and Kindirma (February, 1904).

J. Errio — Road leads out S.W. for ½ mile, then west and through cultivation. Good going.

2½ 2½ A khor—rough broken ground.

1¾ 4¼ A broad shallow kohr.

2¾ 7 Khor 11 feet deep. Had to dismount.

¼ 7¼ Khor 10 feet deep. Dom palms.

3¾ 11 Slight descent to deep broad kohr, travel along it for 400 yards, and then climb out.

½ 11½ Beginning to ascend a ridge among rough rocky hills.

1¼ 12¾ Track leads over a smooth gravelly plateau for 1 mile.

1 13¾ Road descends to cultivation; rough stony going.

1 14¾ Track leads sharp to right down rocky side of hill into a grassy valley about 3 miles long.

½ 15¼ Cross broad sandy khor, with rivulet a yard wide in centre (February, 1904). Water disappears a mile further down. Dom palms.

Tira El Akhdar ½ 15¾ Good camping place under shady trees by stream. The Nuba village is situated on the hills to the west of the valley, which is only ½ mile wide.

They possess few rifles, but many spears and clubs. Population about 1,200, under Meks

(1) Shega.

(2) Amiri.

(3) Atuira.

(4) El Gamal.

(5) Ti.

They are greatly feared and hated by surrounding Jebels, owing to their raids. They are true Nuban, and wear no clothing. They own a lot of cattle and goats.

4 19¾ The track, rough and stony, leads S. along the edge of Western hills of the valley, and turns to the right (W.) over a slight rise, a “nek” or ridge, and runs through forest land. Going better. Gravel.

2½ 22¼ Track turns slightly N., and passes by a khor, banks 20 feet, breadth of all channels 100 yards, and then runs through thick forest. Good going.

7 29¼ Crosses a broad sandy khor 50 to 90 yards wide, and runs along W. bank half mile to Tiramandi camp. Village is two miles away to the S.W., on a spur of the hill.

Tiramandi ½ 29¾

Mek Nuwai; population, 700 Nubas. Very poor, and had been lately raided, very few cattle, but are clearing forest along W. bank of khor for cultivation. No rifles seen.

2 31¾ Track leads S.W. from camp, one mile to village, and then passes over low spur below village round S. of hill, direction S.W. Rough and stony, much cut up by small khors.

2 33¾ Gold is found here in the rainy season, the rain displacing rocks and stones on the ridge to the N. side of the road. The people search for it among the debris. They state that by hard work a man can get sufficient to pay his tribute (apparently not worth working).

1¼ 35 Road crosses a broad khor, and the hills on right of road trend away to the N.W.

Many small khors are crossed. Road bends round Southern end of a ridge at right angle to road.

4 39 Road crosses a broad sandy khor. Spur from J. Kindirma runs down on right to the khor. After crossing, road bends round to left (S.), along Eastern face of Kindirma.

Kindirma 1¾ 40¾ A valley in the Eastern face of a mountain down which a stream forms a succession of waterfalls and deep pools. 20 to 30 feet across, and six feet deep. A rough path leads up along the waterfall to the top of the ridge, some 400 or 500 feet, and on either side the mountain rises nearly sheer to a height of 110 feet. The Nubas live on top of the right or Northern side, and their village is approached by a precipitous path winding up the face of the cliff, and at times disappearing in clefts in the rocks, reappearing again 10 feet higher up.

On reaching the top of the ridge one finds oneself in a valley formed by the mountains which curve back outwards from either side of the waterfall and unite again three miles from the ridge, forming a bowl-shaped hollow, the stream flows along the bottom of this basin and falls over the ridge to the level of the main road outside Kindirma.

The Mek’s name is Gandal. The population is about 800 or 1,000. They have about 20 or 30 rifles. Lots of cultivation, both in the valley, inside the mountain, and down by the road below, but few cattle. Have suffered a good deal from raids.

Road leads due S. through thick bush towards small jebel, in direction of E. corner of Talodi. Good going.

1 41¾ Light forest.

2 43¾ Cross broad sandy khor.

J. Mavlul 2 45¾ A small jebel, known as J. Mavlul, about a mile long, is passed. Close to road on left a small village on the N.E. spur of Talodi. Good view of J. Eliri and all surrounding country.

6¼ 52

Talodi 1¼ 53¼ Corner of main jebel and village of Tebeldia on right in valley.

2¼ 55½ Felaita village entrance to valley. Mamuria and military post. Wells and water three feet from surface (February, 1904).

(v.) J. Talodi to J. Eliri.

The track leads straight out from the village of Felaita towards the centre of J. Eliri. First three miles good going through light bush.

3 3 Bush gets thicker. Cotton soil, bad going.

A hillock 4½ 7½ A small hill on the left is passed.

J. Abu Ghor 3 10½ Track leads S.E. round Jebel Abu Ghor, a small hill; better going.

4¼ 14¾ Thick bamboo clumps obstructing track for four miles.

7 21¾ Bad going. Cotton soil.

1½ 23¼ Good going. Light bush.

Tebeldia wells 1¼ 24½ Two small wells in depression in the ground, water two feet from surface, only sufficient for a dozen camels. Takes an hour to fill again.

El Egheibish 3½ 28 A string of five or six wells; sufficient water for 200 men and animals. Road hence much cut up by small khors. Lots of deleib palms.

Taira village (J. Eliri) 4 32 Small village at foot of mountain; population, about 800 revolted slaves of the Rowauga tribe of the Hawazma Arabs; much water and cultivation; Sheikh Rizkalla, 20 rifles. Few cattle. Plenty of sheep and goats.

Road good from Taira through dura cultivation and light thorn bush.

Tanguru 4 36 A large village, population about 1,100 revolted slaves of the Rowauga tribe of the Hawazma Arabs. Sheikhs Mohammed Geiga and Ismail Wad Umbaga. About 50 rifles.

Much water and cultivation, a stream falls from the cultivated plateau 700 feet above in the mountains and there are many wells besides. There is a rough track leading up the glen alongside the waterfall to the Nuba village on top (Sultan Bilula); population, 1,000 pure Nubas. No clothes at all, very few rifles, all spears and knobkerries, lots of dura, cattle and sheep. They hold little or no communication with the villages below; able to hold their own in case of raids.

Supplies sufficient for 500 men for 3 days. Road hence to Kurondo, a jebel to the S. Good road round jebel to Dallass.

Dallass 4½ 40½ Small village; population, about 600 revolted slaves of Abdul Ali tribe of the Hawazma Arabs. Sheikh Rizgalla Mursul. Twenty rifles, sufficient cultivation and water for own needs.

Lakolo 2 42½ Good road round jebel, but stony; could be easily improved. Large village; population, about 1,200 revolted slaves of the Khalifa tribe of Hawazma Arabs. Sheikhs Zaid Barsham and Abdalla Kaki.

Lots of water and cultivation. Road hence up spur of mountain to Nuba village on top. A solitary hill ½ mile S.E. of village. Was told the river was 1½ days’ journey due S., and that the people took 4 or 5 days more from there to Kodok by boats. Many cattle and goats. About 50 rifles.

(vi.) J. Eliri (Lakolo) to J. El Amira.

J. Eliri — ½ Pass hill on right.

1 1½ Cross khor.

2½ 4 Cotton soil and thick thorn trees—very bad going.

Village 2 6 Good going; road curves round jebel by rocks, and reaches village among deleib palms and tebeldi trees. Little cultivation and poor water supply; population, about 200, no arms; very poor. Remains of Nuba village on top. Was told the Nubas left the jebel and went S. to river to live in Dinka country a year ago. River said to be 1½ days’ journey due S. A few sheep and goats.

2¼ 8¼

Road hence to J. Kuronde, about 5 miles S.W.

(vii.) J. Eliri (Lakolo) to J. Werna.

Lakolo — —

— ½ Road runs E., cross khor which runs along right of road.

½ 1 Cross khor. Road runs between low parallel ridges of hills named Lohno. Rough and stony.

1 2 Road bends sharp to left.

Lohno ½ 2½ Village of Lohno, small, population about 200. Very little cultivation, bad water supply. Road now bends to right, crossing rocky ridge.

½ 3 Cross khor, bad going.

¼ 3¼ Cross big deep khor, and turn sharp to right.

¼ 3½ Recross big khor, road turns sharp to left.

½ 4 Cross another khor.

½ 4½ Going becomes better, road runs through forest land.

3¼ 7¾ Cross khor.

¼ 8 Cross khor.

1 9 Going becomes rough.

3½ 12½ Turns sharp to left to Nuba village of

Tekeim ½ 13 Tekeim, small village; population about 400; good water supply; little cultivation, very few cattle, but lots of goats.

1½ 14½ A cross road leads to the Tekeim dura fields.

½ 15 An “agaba.” Camels had to be led up; cross a khor other side of “agaba.”

1 16 Cross another khor, going becomes better.

1¾ 17¾ Cross a khor, track leaves hills, good going.

El Girid 1¼ 19 A cone-shaped peak amongst hills to right known as El Girid, about 3 miles off. Bush very open.

4 23 Bad going, cotton soil begins, a most dreary view.

4 27 Going better.

1 28 Small hill ½ mile to right.

2 30 Low hills ½ mile on left.

4 34 Cross khor.

Werna 1 35 Enter Werna hills, a group of five or six rocky hills about 300 to 400 feet high on smooth open ground.

Population about 1,100, mainly revolted slaves of the Khalifa tribe of Hawazma Arabs under Sheikh Abdul Naim. The original population was Nuba, but are now very much in the back ground. The real “Mek” is Abu Gabr Azaz. They have about 40 rifles.

Plenty of water and cultivation, few cattle, many goats. People trade to river at Kodok.

(viii.) J. Werna to Lukka, viâ J. Morung, J. Gedir and J. Kologi.

Werna — —

— 2 Road takes a wide curve out N. (to right) to avoid a swamp which exists all the year round. Good going until cotton soil, then bad going. Very open country.

Swamp 2¼ 4¼ Cross 100 yards of marshy ground (end of the swamp).

¾ 5 Cultivation for ½ mile, huge crops of dura.

½ 5½ Road turns to left over very bad cotton soil and through dense thorn trees.

3 8½ A big khor, water standing in pools 100 yards long and 4 feet deep. Duck of two kinds and lots of game. Roan antelope and tetel.

1½ 10 Firm ground; good going.

1 11 Cultivation as far as Morung.

Morung 2 13 Village on conical hill; population: Kawahla tribe of Hawazma Arabs, much mixed with Nubas. Sheikh: Hassan Wad Tieb.

Population about 1,000; 30 rifles. A fula supplies village with water until end of January; they then open wells. Good water supply. Plenty of cattle, sheep, goats and donkeys.

After leaving Morung for first 13½ miles going very good, through light bush and forest, perfectly flat; no hills.

13½ 26½ A khor, cotton soil and thorn bush begins.

1 27½ Good going again.

1½ 29 Cotton soil, and a big khor with pools of water, dry by end of February.

1½ 30½ A khor, bad going.

1 31½ Good going.

1 32½ Road bends to right, towards S.E. corner of Gedir, and runs along base to corner.

4 36½ Track runs round corner and bends sharp to left to village of Mek Bosh, of Gedir. Population about 1,200, about 60 rifles; fair water supply 10 feet from surface. Much dura cultivation. Population: Nubas. Plenty of cattle and sheep.

Gedir ½ 37

Two other villages, Semat and Gheibish, described on road to Kologi.

Road leaves Mek Bosh’s village and runs round another spur at E. end of jebel, passing the Mahdi’s rock where he used to preach to the people, and follows North-eastern face.

Semat 1 38 Small village of Semat, about 200 people.

1½ 39½ Track enters gorge, rough, stony going—between main jebel and a ridge of rocky hills running out N. to J. Girada, 4 miles off.

El Gheibish 1 40½ Road clears N. end of the mountain, and at the end of a spur is El Gheibish, a small village of about 400 population, 40 rifles; fair water supply, lying among dom palms. Road hence straight to J. Lukka.

1¼ 41¾ Another road leads over very bad cotton soil to a khor, light thorn bush, bad going, cotton soil.

2½ 44¼ Firm ground and good going through light forest, passing one village at 11 miles, and reach main village of Kologi, lying among dom palms under the hill.

4¾ 49

Kologi villages — — Population of the two villages, about 1,500. They are sedentary Arabs (much crossed by Nubas) of the Kawahla tribe of the Hawazma Arabs. Sheikhs Gadum Hassib El Nebi and Akhman Fadlalla.

No arms to speak of; quiet people; do not raid. Fair water supply from wells; water eight feet from surface. Much dura cultivation. Many cattle, sheep and goats.

Road leads out due N. towards J. Lukka.

K. Harrug ¾ 49¾ The khor Harrug; no obstacle.

½ 50¼ Cross a ridge; rough stony going. Road leads straight towards Lukka between small rocky hills.

3¾ 54 Road turns to right to get round Eastern spurs of J. Lukka, through thick thorn bush, and across broken stony ground and small khors and ridges, and bending round to left enters a valley and the village of Lukka.

Lukka 2¼ 56¼ Kawahla Arabs, with a cross of Nuba; Sheikh Janga Rahma. A large village of 1,000 people; no rifles to speak of. Quiet people; do not raid. Much dura cultivation. Water supply bad at camping place and insufficient for 50 men and animals. Good clear water is obtained about 600 feet up the mountain, where the Nuba colony get their water. Good camping ground. Shade. Plenty of supplies, cattle, sheep, and goats.

(ix.) J. Talodi to J. Kadugli, viâ Kororak, Um Dorein (in J. Moro), Homra and Sema.

Talodi (Felaita) — — Road leads S.W. along face of mountain, through the villages of Felaita, and turns W., following Southern and South-western face along the base of the hills.

— 2

J. Burham is seen 8 or 10 miles off to the W., and J. Krongo a long way off to the W.S.W.

5 7 Here the road leaves the mountain and strikes off across the plain in a W.N.W. direction over cotton soil to a swamp, water one foot from surface (February, 1904).

Swamp ½ 7½

2 9½ Firm, good going.

5 14½ A small rocky wooded hillock on right of road.

Kororak 6 20½ The road, skirting N.E. corner of Durham, leads straight to Kororak, a Nuba village in J. Moro. The village is high up on the face of the cliff. Population, about 1,500. The various Meks’ names are:—

(1) Tambura.

(2) Toto El Azrak.

(3) Toto Agari.

Plenty of dura, very few cattle or sheep; no rifles.

People of Talodi come here to buy grain.

Mountains of Digig and Masakin to south. Road follows base of hills at Kororak for 1 mile, and then strikes off West across rough gravelly soil and thorn bush.

2 22½ Cotton soil and thick thorn bush.

1 23½ Firm ground and light bush.

Dorein 3½ 27 Road strikes the hills again at Um Dorein. Very small Nuba village on spur on left of road; small hill on right. Meks’ names are:—

(1) Toto El Ahmah;

(2) Abu Falang.

Road passes over ridge, still going West over a small cultivated plain, with hills ½ mile away to left and ¾ mile on right.

½ 27½ Small rocky ridge in front. Best road leads to the left and then turns sharp to right round the ridge and over broken rocky ground.

1 28½ Track descends on to very bad broken cotton soil. Impassable swamp in rains for animals.

Well 1¼ 29¾ Track strikes mountain again. Well (water 2 feet from surface) on side of road after leaving the swamp.

2 31¾ Road runs West along south face of hill and at 2 miles turns half right. Good going.

1 32¾ Road leaves J. Moro and strikes off W.N.W. across plain through light bush; very good going to

Homra 4½ 37¼ Large Arab village, population 1,200. Great number of cattle, sheep, and goats. Wells, water 8 feet from surface.

K. Meshisha 1½ 38¾ Cross big Khor Meshisha, 40 yards across, 5 feet deep.

1½ 40¼ More Arab encampments, inhabited in rainy season, but deserted now (March, 1904).

1 41¼ Cross deep khor, 8 feet, 8 yards wide. Alternate cotton soil and fair going through thick thorn bush to

3½ 44¾ A khor known at Sema and Kadugli as the “Wadi.” A small hill on right; cotton soil.

5 49¾ Alternate good and bad going through thorn bush.

½ 50¼ A shallow khor; light bush.

Sema 1½ 51¾ Village of Sema, open stony country at foot of hills; population about 300. Mek Guru.

Three or four wells. Water 15 feet; bad supply; only sufficient for five or six men and animals at a time.

From here road turns N.W. and follows base of hills over stony ground.

1 52¾ Rough going; pass small rocky hill on right; a good deal of thorn bush.

2 54¾ Track becomes clearer and leads over cotton soil past the wells in a khor to

Kadugli 1 55¾ Kadugli (Arab encampment), a few tukls against the S.W. end of a ridge of small hills. Kadugli Nuba village is 1 mile due E. on the main range called Ghuhub.

The Mek is Rahal Andal, an energetic and trustworthy man. Has great influence for 50 miles round.

The Sudanese infantry barracks, ½ company, are just beyond the encampment, and the garrison has opened several wells of excellent clear water 6 feet from surface.

Supplies unlimited from Kadugli. Population of village about 1,200. They have about 50 rifles.