Volume 2 — CHAPTER VII.

(BAHR EL GHAZAL.)

51.—MESHRA EL REK to TONJ.

By Captain H. D. W. Lloyd, January, 1904.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Meshra El Rek — — Leaving the Nuzl, the track crosses a khor some 15 feet deep, by a bridge partly under water. After 100 yards bridge ends and you wade waist deep for 3 miles.

Camp 3½ 3½ Always dry, but mosquitoes very bad. Good water all the year round. Very bad track leading due S. between grass 7 feet high. Ground much cut up by cattle passing in the rains.

Unangarp 7½ 11 A few Dinka tukls; no supplies N. boundary of Lau district. Head Sheikh Kwitol.

Manashin 2 13 Water holes, which are said never to dry up completely, situated on W. of track. Good camp, well marked by a deleib growing out of centre of gemmeiza tree on track. No supplies.

Track continues nearly due S., winds a great deal, and much cut up. Bad going for man and beast.

War Lai 6¾ 19¾ A swamp, 300 yards W. of track. It is said never to dry up; 300 by 200 yards. Fair drinking water. Animals easily watered by digging trenches.

Fulbar 6 25¾ Road through an open forest, grass lately burnt. Track better, but much broken in places by old elephant tracks. Fulbar is a large swamp, said never to dry up. Many elephant tracks. Good water.

Leaving the pool, the track joins the main road a mile on. Fair track.

Amangnok 7 32¾ A large swamp, good water, lasts all the year, on W. of track, which goes S. to Marra Alangjok, passing the village of Sheikh Angong Marial.

Mana Alangjok — — A large Dinka cattle enclosure, well-known throughout this district.

War Gel 7 39¾ Pools in a swamp. Water said to last all the year. Bad shade. Half-a mile on Sheikh Tioing’s house is passed on the N. of the road, and Sheikh Malwal Mabior’s village over a mile long is left to the W.

Haleik 7 46¾ A swamp, left to W. of road, water said to last all the year. Track generally good, but cut up by elephants in places. Sheikh Wal Mabior’s village is entered 2 miles from Ateim swamp.

Wal Mabior’s, or Ateim 5 51¾ A mile wide from E. to W., and 1½ miles from N. to S. Very good and plentiful water.

Mowok 2 53¾ A swamp 1 mile E. of road. Very good track through open country. Heglig trees and little bush.

Mabior Dod’s 2 55¾ Large swamps. Good water; called Katoi. Fair shade. Good track through rather open and perfectly level country. Soil sandy in places.

Again Well, Ewal Gor’s 5 60¾ Small water holes, little water. There is a good deal of cultivation about, and Dinka huts every few hundred yards.

Sheikh Bak Bong Yep’s 4 64¾ Four bad and one good water holes. Latter known as Abaing, after a small tree near it; watered 200 men easily. The four other holes just satisfied 100 donkeys. Fair shade. Obtained some dura.

Teing Teing well 1 65¾ One fair well, or rather hole; water for 30 or 40 men. Good going on the whole.

“Dug-Dug” (ruins) 4 69¾ Site of an old cattle enclosure, marked by some mounds of earth and some usher bushes.

Atubbu 11 80¾ One water hole; dirty water, but enough to give 200 men a drink.

Aweid 2 82¾ A small swamp, but plenty of fair water. Fair shade under heglig trees. Track passes across an open plain covered with grass, which in places is 10 feet high. Few trees, but trees of the Tonj valley seen in the distance to the S. Bad going for first 3 miles, then very good.

Atang’s (N. end) 4¼ 87 The direct road to Tonj Post leads to the W.S.W. Another, down a khor, in which are several water-holes strikes the River Tonj. Small camp on left bank. The river bed is 65 yards wide and 15 feet deep. Water 25 yards wide and 18 inches deep. Good water; sandy bottom. No mosquitoes.

R. Tonj 3 90

Leaving the river the track for 3 miles goes through long grass, then crosses a plain; grass at first, then covered with grass and bush.

Abuior Sheikh Maton’s and War Rual 9 99 A small water hole (War Rual) on W. of track at N. end of Sheikh Matoin’s village (Abui). There are a few more wells to the W., but the best water is a mile to the E. in a swamp. Good shade near road.

War Tit 2 101 A pool 50 by 30 yards, now dry. There is a small water hole near the road.

Very good track through bush, with many large trees, until within a mile of the river, when a belt of forest is entered.

Tonj River Post 5 106

A great part of the above road is under water during the rains, and only passable to carriers.

52.—WAU to MESHRA EL REK.

By Captain H. D. W. Lloyd, March, 1904.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

The following is the Government route and is used by all convoys:—

Wau — — Crossing the river Jur, the track enters high grass for a mile until the E. side of the valley is reached. Then thick bush and ironstone ridges.

Sheikh Malwal’s new village (Jur) 4 4 Rest house and well 150 yards S. of track. Track continues over ironstone ridges, but bush is much more open near the track.

P. Rumbashia 5¾ 9¾ A rain pool 30 yards by 20 yards; 3 feet 6 inches deep when full; now contains 18 inches water. Halting place for bull transport. A quarter-mile on there are 3 more small pools in the rock.

Sheikh Malwal’s old village (Jur) 1¼ 11 Jur name Rurruish. Rest house, 2 tukls, 1 shelter, and good well. Water trough. Bush now becomes thick; many deserted villages passed.

Sheikh Moyen’s (Dinka) 12 23 So called, but he has now moved some way N. of the road, rest house, 2 tukls, 2 sheds, and 1 rekuba. Well with good water. The ironstone formation is left.

Track over level plain, now dry and covered with high grass, would be very wet in rains. A few Dinka houses are seen, many deserted ones passed.

Water hole 9½ 32½ Six feet deep, 8 feet in diameter, good, but much discoloured water. Used by Aiyum’s people.

Sheikh Aiyum’s (Dinka) 2½ 35 Extensive Dinka village chiefly N. of road. Rest house, 2 tukls, 2 shelters, and large tukl for the bull transport.

Open grass-covered plain with scattered trees. Swampy in rains. Mosquitoes troublesome.

Bir El Jaalin (Arab), Malau (Dinka) 7 42 Old wells in clump of deleib palms, site of old village.

Deleiba 8 50 Rest house, 3 tukls, 1 bad well; water gave out after 30 men had drawn their water, but well refills quickly. Many deleib palms. Mosquitoes.

Track winds to avoid the bush, which is thick some 200 yards away from the track W.

“Dug-Dug” 5 55 Rest house, Dinka name Noi. 3 tukls and 2 good wells.

Track again winds about to avoid the thick bush. Very thick grass in places.

Bir El Gurud 6 61 Rest house, 3 tukls. Two wells (one now dry), 8 feet deep. Good, but muddy water. After passing through a belt of bush 300 yards wide the country becomes perfectly flat and open. Covered with high grass and scattered trees. Little bush anywhere. The going is bad as the track from here to Meshra. is mostly under water during the rains.

Old wells near single deleib palm 7½ 68½ Could not obtain name. A well-known place and site of old Dinka village.

Sheikh Gadein’s 3½ 72 So called. Sheikh Bok is the chief man. A large village. Rest house, 2 good tukls, 1 shelter. Good water from wells. Depôt for bull transport. Road and country as before.

Gemmeiza tree 9 81 Well-known halting place, as there is a pool 50 yards in diameter which holds water for some 6 or 8 weeks after the rains.

Rest house W. end of Sheikh Mayik’s village 6 87 Two tukls and shelter under gemmeiza tree. Wells dry 13th March, 1904. Route winds much through the village.

Rest house E. end of Sheikh Mayik’s village (Dinka) 5½ 92½ Two tukls, 1 shelter under a single deleib palm. One well 15 feet deep, 8 feet in diameter, 3 feet of good clear water. No people seen; they are said to have gone down to the river with their cattle.

Country good, level, and open as before; but track somewhat better.

Three miles from the rest house there is a water hole 50 yards S. of track near a small deleib palm, 8 feet deep, 10 feet in diameter; good water.

Sheikh Madal’s (Dinka) 9 101½ Rest house at W. end of village; 3 good tukls, 1 shelter, good well. Dinka name of well Atien ful. The native houses are chiefly on the N. side of the wood and ½ a mile away.

War Kul 4¾ 106¼ (War = pool) Pool 20 yards by 10 yards. Good water situated in a swamp now dry. There is a clump of bush on higher ground 100 yards N., which would be a dry spot for a camp.

Sheikh Amien’s (Dinka) 1¾ 108 Rest house. Two tukls and well, at W. end of village which is scattered along the route for 3 miles. Road has been cleared in the village and ruts caused by traffic in rains filled up. The going then becomes bad. Black soil; grass, and a few scattered trees. Three miles from Meshra, high grass and a swamp is entered. Going very bad and water waist-deep in places. Close to the Nuzl a khor is crossed by a bridge, but it is now 2 feet 6 inches under water.

Meshra El Rek 11 119

53.—TONJ POST to WAU.

By Captain H. D. W. Lloyd, February, 1904.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

The whole of this road is over ironstone ridges, except where it is crossed by khors. The going is good and in many places the bush has been cleared. It is proposed to clear a route from Tonj Post, viâ Jur Ghatas to Kawagana, and thence follow this route to Wau.

There was sufficient water everywhere in February, 1904, along this route for 300 men and 100 mules.

Tonj Post — — The route follows the left bank of the river Ba, at first, to Morgan Bongo’s house, and thence bears slightly N. of W. Good track, but thick bush, and grass on both sides until within a mile of Aiidu’s wells, when cultivation is entered.

Sheikh Aiidu’s 10 10 A small Jur village, to W. of which is the rest house; 2 good tukls. Good water from wells.

Track continues through thick bush and grass, crossing some grass covered swamps, now dry. Ironstone, good going. A mile from the next rest house the track descends a steep bank, 81 feet high, and crosses a small khor.

River house at River Mulmul 8½ 18½ On right bank. One good hut, but little shade near. Water from pools in bed of river. The track now crosses the valley of the River Mulmul, which is flat, covered with thick grass, and very swampy in the rains. There is a khor on the left bank of valley, and some wells 2 feet deep. Good and plentiful water. Route passes through Sheikh Agan’s village and over a stony ridge to the rest house.

Rest house, Sheikh Agan’s (Jur) 4½ 23 The village is called Mudi. Two good tukls. Water from wells in River Mulmul.

Good track, but much high grass.

Sheikh Arum’s (Bilanda) 3½ 26½ A small village with little cultivation. Two tukls for rest house. Road now winds a good deal through high grass and bush, and crosses several places that are swampy in the rains.

Sheikh Akuong (Jur) 6½ 33 Rest house of 2 tukls and a rekuba; water from well.

Munga well 2½ 35½ There is a small rekuba on N. of road. The wells are 300 yards S., and consist of 3 holes 4 feet deep with 2 feet of good water, which flows in quickly. Full of frogs. Immediately beyond cultivation and the village commence.

Sheikh Kangor’s 1½ 37 Rest house is at N. end of village. Four tukls, water from Manga well. Bush and high grass. Route crosses one place that must be very wet in the rains.

Kawagana 3½ 40½ A rock-pool 60 yards by 25 yards, and 2 feet 6 inches deep. Good clean water, said to last all the year. Rain water; no spring. Two tukls, bush thick. The direct road from Tonj Post, viâ Jur Ghatas, comes in here.

Khor 4 44½ 300 yards wide and 30 feet deep, ironstone sides; no water. Only 80 yards show signs of being swampy in the rains. Track crosses another khor and then ascends a ridge (60 feet) which it follows for 2 miles and then descends into Khor Mbili, where there is a rest house with ghafir.

Rest house in Khor Mbili 4 48½ Three tukls. Water from wells in khor. Road has been cleared for 2 miles on each side.

Khor Tala 3 51½ 20 yards wide and 10 feet deep, bridged. Route now ascends an ironstone ridge for a mile and then winds round it. Wide valley to the E., with deleib palms. 3¼ miles from next rest-house there is a steep ascent of 50 feet. Bad going. The track then crosses greyish soil for a mile and again passes over ironstone rock.

Rest house, “The Deleib’s” 9 60½ Eight tukls (4 old). Many deleib palms about. Good water from wells. For the next 3 miles there is thick bush. The grassy valley of the Khor Abongo is then struck.

Khor Abongo 4 64½ Khor which is 20 yards wide and 10 feet deep, bridged. The river Jur is now to the W. of the track which follows its right bank, between the high grass which covers the valley and an ironstone ridge 30 to 50 feet high, covered with very thick bush. Wau is seen on the left bank.

East of Wau the track crosses the valley (1 mile wide) through very high grass. The river Jur here is on the W. side of the valley, 100 yards wide with banks from 15 to 20 feet high. On 3rd February, 1904, there was 2 feet 9 inches water in the ford. Sandy bottom.

Wau 5½ 70

54.—TONJ TO RIKTA’S VILLAGE.

By Captain H. D. W. Lloyd, February, 1904.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

There is no obstacle on this route to the movement of men, mules or donkeys, during the dry season. But a very little rain would make many of the khors impassable to animals. The river Ba during the rains would have to be crossed in boats. There was ample water for 500 men and 300 mules or donkeys. The route lies chiefly over ironstone rock, with black alluvial soil in and near the khors.

Tonj River Post — — Leaving the fort the road follows the left bank of the river Ba; good track.

Khor 3 3 20 yards wide, 5 feet deep, muddy bottom, if not bridged would be a serious obstacle. Track skirts the forest.

River Ba 3 6 The actual valley is 1½ miles wide, alluvial soil covered with grass 6 to 8 feet high, now dry. The river channel 75 yards wide, 12 feet deep, and has been bank full of water this year. Water in January 30 yards wide, 20 inches deep, sandy bottom. No difficulty in ascending banks.

There is now a slight track only. The route followed the edge of the forest on the right bank of the river Ba. Good going, but the khors running into the river would be difficult after rain. Water for drinking obtained from khors.

13th mile 7 13 Route leaves valley of river Ba and follows the right bank of Khor Sunni. Good going, khor from 50 to 1000 yards from route which followed the edge of the forest. Bush seldom very thick, but grass troublesome in places.

Pool Dam Lkobo 20½ 33½ Route crosses to left bank of Khor Sunni 20 feet deep, 3 yards wide at bottom, 25 yards wide at top; running water 6 inches deep.

Pool Gutti 2 35½ Large pool in khor, said never to dry up. Guide was not very sure of name, but place unmistakable. Bare ironstone running from edge of forest to khor. Running water now ceases and the only water is in pools.

Route crosses several shallow but wide khors full of elephant tracks; high grass.

Da Kobi 12 47½ (Called by another guide, Akkuir). Da = pool in Bongo. Dirty water but quite drinkable.

Pool Dormunga 6½ 54 Pool 100 yards long in khor, very good water. Good shade near; road crosses several ironstone ridges and some low ground now dry, but would be very swampy in rains.

Pool Higoli 7½ 61½ Pool in khor. Good water. Good going but thick bush.

Pool Kunga 44¾ 66¼ Pool in a khor running into Khor Sunni, 80 yards in diameter, good clean water. Said always to contain water.

Minobolo 4¾ 71 Two miles before reaching Minobolo, two deleib palms are seen and the track crosses a small khor. For 1½ miles this khor contains a succession of pools. Minobolo is the site of an old slave dealers’ zeriba, 30 feet above khor. Water said to last all the year.

The route follows the Khor Sunni, crossing it twice and passing several small pools.

Pool Riggu 8 79 In the midst of many deleib palms, good water. Much game about. This is the last pool on the Khor Sunni.

The country now rises slowly until the route passes between two red ironstone hills (rising 100 feet above the track) covered with bush. The route then descends and enters the valley of the Khor Takor which flows S.W. to the river Ba.

Toko 5½ 84½ Pool of good water; said to last all the year.

Da Higi 2½ 87 Pool of good water; said to last all the year. Site of old Bongo village. Route now follows right bank. Good going.

Ungulu 2¼ 89¼ Pool in khor; drying up rapidly in February. Route crosses to left bank, and a mile on there is a large grey granite rock 30 feet high, 50 yards in diameter.

Mungola 2¾ 93 Pool in khor; said never to dry up. Good water; some bad going due to elephant tracks.

Dih 3 96 Several large pools which are said never to dry up. Good shade.

From here to Higola pool there are two routes, an eastern and a western. The former is the better going but the latter has more water on it.

WESTERN ROUTE.

Follows the Khor Takor for 2 miles, then turns S., crosses the Khor Teih at the Pool Ngomala, and half a mile on enters valley of the Khor Biuku, which flows northwards and westwards to River Ba; much bush and grass. Three miles from Ngomala, route crosses khor; rocky ground, bad going. After 7 miles, Angaga, a pool in Khor Biuku, is reached. Water said to be dry up; much high grass. A mile S., route again crosses the khor and ascends an ironstone ridge, which it follows for 5 miles; good going; to Higola 5½ miles, a pool fed by a spring, situated on E. side of ridge in the Khor Todor.

EASTERN ROUTE.

Route goes nearly S.E. for 2½ miles, then turns lightly W. of S.

Khor Teih 2½ 98½ Now nearly dry. One or two small dirty pools. Khor 20 yards wide, 8 feet deep, steep banks. Flows W. to River Ba. A mile and a half on the Khor Todor is seen E. of route which follows the left bank to Higola. Good going skirting the bush. Valley of khor full of high grass. The Khor Todor flows northwards into the Khor Teih.

Higola 5½ 107 Bad going for first 2 miles, ascending a rocky ironstone ridge. Thick bush. Then along the level for 2 miles, when the end of the ridge is reached. There is then a rapid but easy descent of nearly 200 feet to the Khor Veitatei. Route followed right bank to the River Ba, but it is better to cross the khor from 1 to 2 miles before reaching the river.

River Ba 11 118 Forty yards wide and unfordable, with slight current E. to W.; following the bank for a mile through high grass and crossing the Khor Veitatei the river bends S. Near a large Bolo tree. S. of this tree is a good ford. Water 2 feet 6 inches deep. Sandy bottom.

Right bank easy, left bank had to be ramped. Good shade on right bank. None on left.

Route now nearly due S., through high grass. Near River Ba for 2 miles. Then crosses a small khor with running water and ascends a hill to Sheikh Toin’s, the River Ba being left to the eastwards.

Sheikh Toin 5¼ 123¼ Village burnt 11th February. Situated on top of a grey sandstone hill. Water from pool in Khor Maposho, a mile S. From this village to Rikta’s there is a good track. Much bush and high grass.

Khor Maposho 5¾ 129 Track again crosses the khor. Two good pools. Long grass and thick bushes.

Hukwar’s 7 136 Small place. Good pools ¼ mile N.W. Burnt 10th February. Track continues through high grass and bush for 4½ miles to the first houses of Rikta’s village.

Khor Menza 5½ 141½ A narrow but deep khor with thickly wooded banks. Many pools both above and below track.

High grass, with clearings for cultivation: dura, telibun and maize (very little).

Khor Nabazibi ¾ 142¼ A large khor, with thickly wooded banks. Many pools of good water, both above and below track. Was bridged by Rikta, but bridge burnt. There must be 7 feet of water in the khor at times. The width varies from 30 to 60 yards wide, the more narrow portions being between ironstone rock.

Rikta’s — — The Sheik’s house (burnt 10th February, 1904) was 250 yards from the bridge. The village was scattered along the higher ground on both banks of the Khor Nabazibi. Except where cleared for cultivation, the country is covered with scattered trees and high grass.

55.—WAU TO TEMBURA.

By Captain A. B. Bethel, R.A., August, 1904.

Water, etc.In the dry season, I consider that this road would present a good many difficulties in the way of water supply for troops or animal transport using it.

Transport.In the wet season, the road is only fit for carrier transport, as many of the khors are so full that it would entail swimming the animals across, and carrying the baggage over by hand; bridging one or two more of the khors would assist matters a good deal, but the River Bo is too wide for a bridge to be thrown across it, and I think it quite possible that these small native-made bridges would be swept away in the deep khors. A small Berthon boat is indispensable to anyone using this road in the wet season.

Track and country.The track is a well marked one the whole way. After leaving the Zeriba of Kutsuk Ali, the country becomes undulating till Khor Abera is reached, and there are several ridges, with steep ascents and descents; from this, the track is fairly flat till it reaches Tembura’s village, though, S. of Gedi’s village, it runs along the foot of the Undili Mountains. In the wet season, the track is very much overgrown with grass and short scrub to the S. of Ali’s Babai; N. of it, the grass is not so high, nor so thick, but the going is bad, as much of the track is under water, and it is especially so between Khors Gullamba and Gumbola.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Wau — —

River Wau 4 — Good ford in dry season, about 2·6 to 3 feet deep.

Sheikh Kwol’s village (Rest house) 10 14 3 rest houses, well in village, river 2 miles away.

Zeriba Kutsuk Ali 3 17 2 small wells close to Zeriba.

Khor Kossukali (Rest house) 12 29 2 rest houses.

Khor Abera (Rest house) 5 34 2 rest houses, water all the year.

Khor Tela (Rest house) 7 41 2 rest houses.

Khor Borda 9 50 Water said to be in a pool here all the year.

Khor Nyeka (Rest house) 9 59 2 rest houses.

Khor Gumbala (Rest house) 10 69 2 rest houses, water said to be in pools all the year.

Khor Gullamba (Rest house) 11 80 1 rest house, deep khor, 5 feet deep in wet season, water probably all the year. Rest house.

Khor Gomereh 3 83

Khor Deboka and Sheikh Ali’s Babai (Rest house) 16 99 Deep khor, water all the year, Tukls in old village still intact. 2 rest houses.

River Bo (Rest house) 12 111 2 rest houses, easily crossed in dry season; boat necessary in wet season, as it is 80 yards wide. Water all the year.

Khor Gutti 19 130 Water probably all the year.

Sheikh Wura’s village (Belanda) (Rest house) 6 136 2 rest houses, water all the year.

Gedi’s village (Rest house) 12 148 1 Tukl and 1 Dahr-El-Tor, water all the year.

River Duma 19 167 Bridge, water all the year.

Sheikh Bumangedi’s son’s village 6 173 Water all the year.

River Yebbo 6 179 Bridge, water all the year, about 15 yards wide.

Tambura’s enclosure 3 182

56.—WAU to DEIM ZUBEIR.

Major W. A. Boulnois, April, 1901; and Lieutenant-Colonel Sparkes, April, 1903.

The country.All forest and jungle. Cultivated patches round Biselli. Country gets gradually more undulating, and hills and ridges are higher towards Deim Zubeir. Granite boulders and ironstone intermingled.

Rivers.The Bongo and the Kuru. Both much the same, nearly dry in dry weather, probably full, and difficult to cross between May and October. Many khors, which would be a great obstruction to donkey or even mule traffic.

A waterless stretch for 30 miles from Khor Gitti to the Bongo in dry weather. There is a well out of use at Khor Gombolo, 11½ miles west of Khor Gitti, otherwise water is found at no greater distance than 15 miles interval in pools in the khors.

The track.Is very indistinct in places.[27] Elephant tracks lead off which help to confuse it. Bushes and trees constantly intercept.

Natives.Biselli is fairly populated with Golo and a few Kreich and Bari, originally from Deim Idris.

Deim Zubeir almost entirely Kreich.

Natives live on barley, roots, and berries of trees, and on honey a great deal at this time of year (April).

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Fort Dessaix-Wau Post — — Track leaves the river nearly due W.; several khors are crossed: Khor Ganna at 2 miles, Khor Ngoa at 9 miles, Khor Alfell at 10 miles.

Absaka’s new village 12 12 Water from Well. Rakuba and hut for traveller.

A track crosses the route at 12 miles from the Jur Village Nuara to iron furnaces 15 miles S.W. and S. At Absaka’s old village, at 17½ miles there is well water.

Ganna 4½ 16½ A village taking its name from another Khor Ganna is passed. Golo villages to and at Biselli. Rest Rakuba for travellers. The old zeriba is in ruins—few trees are left; ½ mile further west the huts and zeribas of Golo—Sheikh Limbo. Water from Khor Gitti ½ mile N., flowing N.E., always good.

Biselli (old zeriba) 9 25½

The track nearly all the way so far is thoroughly thickly wooded country, much intercepted by shrubs, bushes, and branches.

Hence track goes slightly S. or W. for 4 miles along right bank of Khor Gitti, passing French wooden bridge over the khor to Village Gumsi Golo, thence W. across Khor Gitti.

Khor Gombolo 10 35½ Well giving bad water in dry season (March to end of May). Rakuba and huts. Dry route crossing Khor Gombolo and Gamus (native name, Ingataba), much intercepted by bushes and trees to River Bongo—steep banks; trees close up to river banks; marsh ½ mile broad, left bank; flowing N.E. from S. about 30 yards broad from bank to bank. Banks at low water (14.3.01) about 20 feet high, sandy bottom, always good clear water in pools. Rakuba and huts. A species of Tetse fly infests the banks of this river.

River Bongo 20 55½

Thence through forest country—higher ground—crossing several khors, past Aboko hills at 11 miles, 1 mile N. of track, whence a view is obtained. Granite ridges about 600 feet high, trees growing up to the summit. Khors Karra and Ganna flowing towards the Bongo water.

Khor Ganna 13½ 69 Water always in Khor Ganna (in well in dry season). Rakuba and huts.

Several more khors are crossed. Country getting slightly more undulating. Several granite outcrops and boulders are passed.

Khor Gongoba 6½ 75½ Khor Gongoba, dry in dry season. Three and a half miles further on, Khor Idris, always water (both have rakubas and huts).

Khor Raml 12 87½ Khors Raml and Tena hold water in pools in dry season, and flow S. to Bongo. The former has rakuba and huts.

Khor Tena 3½ 91

Deim Idris 5 96 Well situated on high ground (gives bad water). Now in ruins. Rakuba and huts. Small trees, jungle, and wilderness. Palisades of burnt wood poles show the outlines of Gessi’s fort. The earthworks of a battery and ruins of two houses are visible. Two or three wells are traced, now tilled up. Three-quarters of a mile further W. the ruins of Suleiman’s fort is passed, touching the track, and shortly after Khor Gelaba is crossed, where once stood houses and a Suk, now wilderness.

Country more undulating, and after passing over a long ridge, the khors are more numerous, and flow northwards to Kuru river. Some years nearly all hold pools of water in the dry season, but they are often dry.

River Kuru 23 119 Steep banks 20 feet high, 30 to 50 yards from bank to bank, very slight current in stream, 6 feet deep. Good water. Rakuba and huts.

Very pretty banks with overhanging trees on both sides.

Khor Mubenga 7½ 126½ Always water. Rakuba and huts.

Khor Ghanam (flowing S. to Kuru) 17½ 144 Khor Ghanam. Crossed at the horse-shoe bend mentioned by Dr. Junker. Banks steep, 15 feet high, 15 yards from bank to bank, always water in pools. Rakuba and huts.

Remains of Gessi’s entrenchments, ironstone, 100 yards W. of left bank.

Deim Zubeir 6 150 Track follows right bank of Khor Uiri running into Khor Ghanam for 1 mile, then rising over a ridge of 4 miles drops down the W. slope, facing a valley with the E. slope of Deim Zubeir ridge opposite. Open ground—dura fields and the fort in the front—Khor Ujugu (spring water) is crossed ¼ mile E. of the Fort of Deim Zubeir.

N.B. No inhabitants between Biselli and Deim Zubeir.

57.—CHAK CHAK to DEIM ZUBEIR.

By Lieutenant Fell, R.N., April, 1904.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Chak Chak — — Track lies nearly due S. Very good going along broad road to village of Baraguei, on khor of same name; thence through straggling village to house of Sheikh Limliffo (Kreich), 1 mile from river. Thence through forest to small Shat village, Sheikh Ramadan on Khor Mwelli. Road difficult to follow owing to numerous elephant roads.

Khor Baraguei 6 6

Sheikh Limliffo (Rest house) 3 9

Khor Mwelli, Sheikh Ramadan (Rest house) 20 29 Good water in khor, but not very much of it (April, 1904).

5 34 From here, track is better defined and lies through forest to rocky khor. Rain pools in rocks. Small hill to E.

Khor Kobshum (Rest house) 6½ 40½ Good going to Khor Kobshum. Water in large pool and again in several pools half hour further on, 1 mile W. of rocky hill with another hill further to the E.

Khor Kobshum (Rest house) 1½ 42 From Kobshum, through forest, to Khor Klippi. Road crosses this khor —no water, but strikes it again after 1 mile. Water in pool. Thence through undulating forest country, crossing many khors to Khor Agok, plenty of water, track difficult to follow owing to many elephant and game roads. From Khor Agok, road crosses many khors, but none at present (April 13) holding water.

Khor Klippi 3½ 45½

Khor Agok (Rest house) 8 53½

River Chel (Rest house) 8 61½ River 100 yards wide. W. bank steep and high. Plenty of water in pools above and below the road; leaving Chel river track passes through slightly more open country to 2 pools with plenty of water, 1 mile apart.

Pools in forest 2½ 64

River Biri (Rest house) 11 75 Thence through thick forest over high ground, passing small rocky Jebel to E. of track to River Biri. Plenty of water.

Thence track is never far from bank of river. Bad going for animals.

River Biri 7 87 Road joins Kossinga road at Biri River, 5 miles from Deim Zubeir.

Deim Zubeir 5 92

58.—DEIM ZUBEIR to KOSSINGA.

By Major W. A. Boulnois, 8th May, 1901.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Deim Zubeir — — A track is followed N.N.W. down a spur of the ridge to River Biri, which is crossed at some rocks in a shallow at a sharp bend, between two deep pools. Stream about 1 mile an hour (23.3.01); granite boulders in the bed—trees overhanging the banks. Banks 15 feet high, and steep, except at crossing; 40 yards bank to bank; very pretty scenery. Thence through forests, free from shrubs. Five and a-half miles on from the rocky spur Tuambu, a view of Hill Tokingaran about 6 miles W.N.W. is obtained; the track to Boko, where Zemio has an outpost, runs close under this hill.

Biri River 5½ 5½

Half a mile further the huts of Sheikh Mattar (Kreich) are passed, and many deleib palms stud the country side. The district and a hill N.E. about 10 miles are called Deleib.

Khor Jangwi 8½ 14 Khor Jangwi is crossed running E. to Biri river, a small deep khor about 20 feet broad with pools; a grove of deleibs marks a good pool and camping site.

Khor Rogoko 4½ 18½ Thick forest to pool Rogoko, where there is a deserted village, thence no track through forest past Odagombo, where there is always water, running east to Biri; ruins of village on N. side, and cross Khors Aparipi and Achon to River Sopo. Thick bushes on the edge of the bank impede the crossing; 70 to 80 yards broad; granite bed in places. It is crossed at a regular floor of granite rocks, stretching 200 yards down the river and damming the stream at low water, thus making a fine pool above; deep drains and khors running down to the river from gradually sloping ridges, on either bank.

Khor Odagombo 5½ 24

Sopo River 19 43

Kaloka 20 63 Hence E. of N. across a bend of Sopo river, which is crossed at 12 miles and followed and recrossed again at the cataract or falls of Kaloka, fine granite boulders and a deep pool. Shortly after the river is crossed again, and the regular track from Deim Zubeir is joined at Khor Regaba, a village of Mandallas on the left bank of Sopo river is passed.

Khor Regaba 11½ 74½

Hill Lutu — — Thence Sopo is left gradually a few miles E., and the Hill Lutu (a steep granite hill about 500 feet high, shaped like half an egg) is passed at 7 miles. Thence an open valley across Khor Lutu where there is always water in pools. Quarter mile further on the village of Sultan Nasser of Telgona is reached, nestling under the rocks of Kossinga, three granite peaks from 200 to 400 feet high, with trees growing up to the summit.

Kossinga 9½ 84

Kossinga is a large village with about 300 inhabitants, Mandallas being the Negro portion, but the majority being a breed half Arab (Baggaras and Jaalin) and half Mandalla.

Sultan Nasser lives here. The men are armed with a certain amount of Remington rifles, and a lot of useless guns of sorts. I saw four or five Lebel rifles—altogether about 200 rifles, and no doubt the outlying districts and villages would bring it up to 2,000 rifles. (?)

There is a market; dura semsem, salt, bamia, beans (ful Sudani or monkeynuts) can be bought, and occasionally an Arab merchant makes his appearance and sells cloth, &c., generally coming from Omdurman.

Note.—The regular track was not followed as the guide elected to try a short route and lost his way in the forest.

59.—KOSSINGA to WAU (FORT DESSAIX).

By Major W. A. Boulnois, May, 1901.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Kossinga — — Track runs due E., passing through a small village of Shat people. At 5 miles, cross Sopo river at a ford, now dry (30.3.01), to village of Lambe, also Shat under Sultan Nasser. The Shat tribe is an off-shoot of Shilluk tribe. The Luju khor joins the Sopo just S. of track. Marshy ground for ¼ mile from each bank of latter.

Lambe 8 8

Khor Angejok 7½ 15½ Thence just S. of E. through forest, ground slightly undulating, pass well and Khor Angejok where there is water. When pool dries, well is open. Bad going owing to elephant tracks across the khor; less than 3 miles further on, the old Government track from Deim Zubeir to Shakka is crossed, now scarcely used.

Khor Lashirek 6½ 22 Water is always found in Khor Lashirek in pools, and in a pool ½ mile S. of track in Khor Babbi; always water. Hence the track runs slightly N. of E., and is much intercepted by trees and bushes in places for the next 8 or 10 miles, then fairly open across Khors Enniar and Adda Tumia, both dry (1.4.01), to a well at Khor Ayala, in which there is a little water. Good track, going scarcely impeded. The well here is only opened when the pool in khor dries up.

Khor Babbi 5 27

Khor Ayala 25 52

Abuia 16 68 Ironstone surface till Shat village Abuia is reached. This is in the district of the Dinka chief Chak Chak of Chamamui.

River Biri or Chel 4 72 Thence to River Biri, known as Chel here, open low ground for 1 mile before reaching the river, which is 60 to 100 yards broad, sandy bottom, banks 10 to 15 feet high, very little water (2.4.01), ankle deep at the ford, which is only 10 feet broad. Then up a gradual slope to high ground for ¼ mile to house of Sheikh or Sultan Chak Chak (Dinka). A large village with fine situation on long hill sloping to the bank of the river. Government post here.

Chamamui — —

Khor Alalla 14 86 Track goes from ford slightly E. of S. to S.E. through much dura, and then E.S.E. past several huts to Village Dambo at 2 miles and Akot at 4 miles, both inhabited by Dinkas and Golos to high ground, ironstone surface to Khor Alalla or Mali where there is always water, 15 yards wide, broad banks 12 feet high and very steep. This khor flows from N. of Deim Idris and empties into the Chel or Biri.

Half a mile further is the village of Alalla (Dinkas) subject to Chak Chak.

Well Hadid 7½ 93½ Hence track goes S.E. pass Well Hadid and well in Khor Babbai, where there are some huts and cultivation, now deserted.

Khor Babbai 4 97½

Khor Kum 15 112½ Thence to Khor and Well Kum, latter giving very little water (Sparkes says plentiful and good, and never dry, January, 1903). Good going past ironstone ridge, Ruku 60 feet high, no view obtainable across Khor Ungu a tributary of Khor Ajak, which latter is crossed with some difficulty in the rains, to village of Attah, close to right bank of Khor Ajak. Golos, Jurs and Dinkas under powerful Dinka chief Agaka, brother of Chak Chak. The district is called Ajak.

Khor Ajak 17½ 130

Khor Atta 2 132

River Bongo — — Thence good track unimpeded S.E. to S. to the marshes of the Bongo river, with woods on right bank 3 miles distant. The track skirts the marshes of the left bank, going along the high ground and fringe of the forest. Khors Dengmelah and Akweya (running into the river from W.) are crossed at 5 and 7 miles respectively; and 7 miles further on the track strikes E. across the marsh, ½ mile to Bongo river, which is crossed and goes to the village of Lang (Jur) on right bank at the edge of the forest.

Lang 15 147

Deimgnaui 7 154 Thence southerly along edge of forest and swamp, across Khor Wartum to Deimgnaui. The old zeriba is now in ruins.

Many Golo, Bari and Ndogo villages are passed, Khor Warur (with water being crossed 1 mile S. of Deimgnaui).

Damuri 13 167 Track goes due S. to house of Sheikh Kayanga, with a fine zeriba and the British and Egyptian flags flying at Damuri, past more villages with much dura, crossing Khors Kambang and Akoli to Bukanda a village of Baris.

Bukanda 5 172

Khor Gitti 16 188 Thence S.E. through jungle for 12 miles till the house of Sheikh Salim Bari is passed, then 1 mile to Khor Gitti, which is crossed 2 miles lower down; 1 mile further S.E. is the village of Sheikh Ambua Indogo, where there is much dura.

Marhu 7 195 Thence over high ground—no villages—passing ruins of old zeriba Marhu of which a few brick foundations only are visible, descending into the Jur and Dinka village of Nuara, Sheikhs Melong and Mill respectively.

Nuara 9 204

Wau Post 6 210 Thence the track is much intercepted by bushes in places to Wau Post, crossing Khor Ganna ¾ mile from the zeriba.

60.—KOSSINGA to HOFRAT EL NAHAS.

By Lieutenant-Colonel Sparkes, March, 1903.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Kossinga — —

Khor Lutu 3 3 Cross Khor Lutu, now dry, but for pools. Direction S.W. Going good.

8 11 Small pool—reported dry in March.

River Ragaa 5 16 Good going all way to river, which is here 100 to 150 yards broad, 15 feet banks—now small stream 2 feet deep. It later on joins River Boru, and finally, after junction with it, the Bahr El Arab. J. Dandu, rocky hill about 300 feet high, lies 2 or 3 miles to S.

Ragaa 10 26 Chief town of Sultan Musa Hamed, the Faroge chief, well situated on rising ground. River Ragaa flows at foot. Good going all way from Kossinga over slightly undulating ground, with occasional rocky excrescences, not big enough to be called hills, but big enough to notice in this dead flat country.

Membera 7 33 From Ragaa track lies W.N.W., and is good. Scattered villages, called Membera. Sheikhs Futu and Adam.

Khor Rakib El Gamal 8 41 Small well, always gives water, now (17th Feb.) pool with ample water, but drying up fast.

Khor Ronda 6½ 47½ Fair going through bush and scrub, crossing two dry khors and passing a pool with water 4 miles from Rakib El Gamal.

Khor Metemma 3 50½ Always water.

River Boru 11 61½ Good going through many Lulu trees to river and village of Boru, Sheikh Futer. About largest tree yet seen in Bahr El Ghazal—some sort of acacia—in centre of village, near Sheikh’s house. River is 1¼ mile from village, very similar to Ragaa, and formidable obstacle in rains.

11 72½ Fair going, passing through two villages to pool where there is always water. Now marching almost N. through very hilly country, gravelly soil and track like a switchback. Chain of tree-covered hill on W., called Jebel I, and on E. called Jebel Yarkar.

Jebel I 5½ 78 Pool, always water at foot of Jebel I.

Bashum 12 90 Fair going over up and down country, occasionally cut by elephant tracks, to village of Sheikh Bashum. People: Kreich and Faroge, under Sultan Musa. This is N. limit of Musa’s people. Jebel Umbelanda lies 5 or 6 miles to W.

Khor Dikki 5 95 Track lies through Umbelanda range. Direction N.N.W. Always water in Khor Dikki.

Khor Monio 6 101 Always water.

River Shaliko 6 107 Always water. Nearly 100 yards across; shelving banks. Runs into Bahr El Arab. Very pretty spot.

Khor Dimkano 4 111 Track now lies W. of N.W. Always water at Dimkano, but “fly” very bad indeed.

River Siri 9 120 Sandy bed, 80 to 90 yards wide; banks 10 to 12 feet. Water always obtainable by scratching hole in sand. Runs into Bahr El Arab.

Khor Bapa 5 125 Rocky khor; always water in pools.

Jebel Paya 6 131 Jebel Paya lies to E. of track; other hills on all sides. Good going, but much up and down.

River Rikki 4 135 Similar to Siri, but always open water, and banks very steep. Track now N. of N.W.

Khor Vongo 7 142 Always water.

Kafikingi 8 150 Village of Sultan Ibrahim Murad (Kreich). 200 to 250 huts; scattered, and somewhat dilapidated. Small stream ½ mile from village, always holds water and fish. Last 15 miles about N.W.

River Adda 10 160 Track now to N.N.E. Good going through thick wood along main road to Kalaka. River Adda 60 to 80 yards wide, banks 10 to 12 feet; stream running E., now but little water.

11 171 Follow Kalaka road for 11 miles, along valley of Adda, then cross river and strike slightly W. of N., leaving all signs of a track, as old Hofrat El Nahas road is entirely obliterated, and going bad and difficult.

Khor Gugu 2½ 173½ Across Adda plain to Khor Gugu, where always water.

Jebel Teni 7½ 181 An old well at foot of jebel, but at present choked and useless.

Khor Unwolo 8 189 Dry khor. Track now runs N.N.W.

Kafrmoya 6 195 Large pool now (28th Feb.); ample water. Many rhino about here.

River Umbelacha (Bahr El Fertit) 4 199 Through sites of long abandoned villages to River Umbelacha; guides, &c., only know it by this name. River runs E., but little water at present; but fine stream when full, 80 to 100 yards broad, 10 to 12 feet banks; bed alternate rock and sand. Seventy to 80 miles to E., this river joins River Adda, the two forming Bahr El Arab.

Hofrat El Nahas 1 200 Copper mines of Hofrat El Nahas lie 1 mile to S. of river, consist of number of shallow pits covering ½ mile square. Whole country round absolutely deserted, and no people have lived here since first rising of Mahdism, when Ibrahim Murad and his people—the former inhabitants—went to Kafikingi, which is now nearest village.

61.—RAGAA to DEIM ZUBEIR.

By Colonel Sparkes, C.M.G., March, 1903.

Roads.Roads everywhere fair, except between River Adda and Hofrat El Nahas, where no track at all, and in parts between Ragaa and Deim Zubeir which require clearing of undergrowth and bush. This is now being done.

Game.Game is plentiful near rivers and khors still holding water. No elephants seen, but they must be very numerous in rains, from many tracks which cut up roads in parts.

Trade goods.Cloth and clothing asked for everywhere. Hard cash taken at Kossinga and Ragaa.

Water.In dry season ample water to be found at no greater distance apart than 21 miles.

Rivers and khors.In rains the many rivers and khors would take a lot of time and trouble to cross, and a Berthon boat would be indispensable.

Camps, &c.Fair camping grounds found almost everywhere and wood always.

Fly.Fly is bad everywhere, and would be probably fatal to horses or camels. Strong healthy mules and donkeys seem to stand it, but weak, sickly and those with bad sores succumb.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Ragaa — — Track lies slightly W. of S., good going through thick wood to small khor where always water.

Khor 13 13

3½ 16½ Another small khor where always water; whole country slightly undulating.

J. Legai 7 23½ Bare rocky mass about 100 feet high to right of track. Other hills, Tara, Jojeni and Goza, to E. and S.E.

5½ 29 Cross deep narrow khor, now dry, and soon after enter regular network of ridges of bare black granite called Mungiat. Track now slightly E. of S.

J. Mungiat 1½ 30½ Scattered village, Sheikh Zanga, under Musa Hamed. For next 4 miles track lies along narrow valley between ridges of bare granite, crossing Khor Barmindiat, in which always water, four times.

Shobindi 5½ 36 Scattered villages of Sheikh Shobindi, head Sheikh of all Mungiat district, an old man almost blind, under Musa Hamed. Sultan Nasser Andel also has people near here.

4½ 40½ Khor about ¼ mile to left of track, always water. Track now lies S.E.; is narrow and impeded by bushes.

River Koko 12 52½ Narrow river, always water; difficult to cross even when half full. Runs into Sopo.

1½ 54 Small khor, always water.

River Sopo 9 63 Bad going through thick bush, and cross a stony hill and River Sopo, 50 yards wide, good deal water still and slight current. Very difficult in rains.

Guji 12 75 Beginning of Kreich villages under Sheikh Minni Bey, which are scattered over several miles.

River Biri 7 82 Very similar to Sopo.

Deim Zubeir 5 87 Pass two small Kreich villages and arrive Government Post of Deim Zubeir, well situated on old site, on rising ground. Khor Ujuku at foot, now almost dry; fair water got from wells. Reported healthy.

62.—KOJALI to TONJ.

By Lieutenant-Colonel Sparkes, July, 1901.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Poste Arsenal or Kojali — — Cross from left to right bank of Jur River, which is 150 yards wide, 12 feet deep at banks, and 20 feet deep in channel, current 4 miles an hour; crossing a matter of some difficulty, as have only a small Berthon boat and a dug-out; it takes some hours, but is effected without casualties.

Kana’s village 5½ 5½ The going on right bank much better than on left bank. There is a good track, and grass as a rule not more than waist high; on other side it was frequently 6 feet or 8 feet high. Village of Kana-Rewa, a brother of Tembura’s, is well built and well kept. Kana’s “Mbanga” or private enclosure surrounded by banana trees. Cross two small khors en route. Village consists of 40 to 50 scattered huts.

Khor 3 8½ Our track now lies to N.E., and we gradually leave Jur River. Khor is 12 feet wide and 3 feet deep.

2 10½ Ravine with small khor at bottom.

Khor Sur 7 17½ Twenty feet wide and 5 feet deep, runs into Jur.

Khor Beilo ½ 18 Small khor 2 feet deep.

8½ 26½ Marsh, but not bad crossing.

J. Hibi 3 29½ Rocky mass of sort of grey granite, site of final battle between Nyam Nyams and Bongos, which lasted 6 days, when latter were utterly defeated.

Khor Kumio 1 30½ Fifteen feet wide, 2 feet to 6 feet deep. Village of Bongos, slaves of Sheikh Kana, just beyond khor.

Khor 7 37½ Small khor, 10 feet wide, 18 inches deep.

Ndoruma’s village 2 39½ Village of Ndoruma Rewa, another brother of Tembura; it is quite new, only having been built within last few months. Very similar in size, &c., to Kana’s village, and is the extreme northern outpost of the Nyam Nyams.

2½ 42 Marsh 100 yards wide, at present only 6 feet deep; another marsh 200 yards wide, but not yet bad crossing.

Village 5½ 47½ Ndoruma’s old village, abandoned 2 months ago, huts all still standing and in good order.

Khor 11 58½ Small khor, dry in winter.

Khor 2½ 61 Small khor, dry in winter.

Khor Wolo 17 78 Dry in winter.

Khor Kordabella 3½ 81½ More a marsh than a khor, said to be never dry, much cut up by elephant tracks, and have considerable difficulty with animals in crossing.

Khor Gutong 6½ 88 Said to have always water running to N., and rather fancy this may be River Mulmul under another name.

Khor Mungara 3 91 Always contains water, more a marsh than a khor, with muddy holding bottom and cut up by elephant tracks, 100 yards wide, and have to carry loads across as laden animals fall and stick in mud.

River Tonj 15½ 106½ River plain here, some 3 miles wide, follow left bank, trees up to river edge on right bank. River almost full, and about 40 yards wide.

15½ 122 River here makes great bend to W. and comes up to edge of trees, the river plain now being on right bank, but this is only for a short distance, as a rule the plain is on left bank.

Khor 4 126 Deep khor running from W. to river; cross by going 1½ miles to N.W.

Tonj Post 3 129

63—TONJ to RUMBEK.

By Captain E. H. Armstrong, February, 1903.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Tonj — — Road from Tonj crosses river close to, but N. of station, and continues slightly N. of E to forest 3 miles, and on N. along edge of forest 3 miles more to where river approaches close to it. From there road E. and N.E. through forest, passing elephant swamp (dry by January) to village of Sheikh Senug. Rakuba, two wells, 20 feet N. of rakuba, distance 11 miles. Road from there past villages of Sheikh Bol and through forest, direction E. to well in Khor Mahok under a gemmeiza tree.

3 3

3 6

Sheikh Senug 11 17

Wag Abak 21½ 38½ Village of Wag Abak, Sheikh Gehak. No water in between, distance 21½ miles. Water can be brought from village Paag, N. of wood to spot 4½ miles W. of gemmeiza tree, if word is sent beforehand. Road continues S.E. across Khor Mahok, wet in January, passing village of Riang (another Sheikh Gehak), also village of Rihan.

Gochin 7 45½ Hamada, interpreter, to village of Gochin, Sheikh Mabiur; two empty forts on W. bank of river Gell, distance 7 miles. On E. across river, then N.E. through village of Sheikh Markoj (Panchoi) to village of Sheikh Jok Dau, 6½ miles. Pool of good water on S. of village, and post and rest house in village. Road continues across village through forest, passing corner of Khor Toj to village of Sheikh Marnal; wells in village and pool on E. side, 12 miles. From there road S.E. along edge of Khor Toj through Fanagai, Sheikh Gran, distance 7 miles, and on 5 miles more to village of Sheikh Ateng, and 1 mile more to Khor Gurman (or Gulman), where there is a bridge. From there to Khor Abeir, 9 miles, and from Abeir to Rumbek 9 miles more.

Sheikh Jok Dau 6½ 52

Sheikh Marnal 12 64

Khor Gulman 13 77

Khor Abeir 9 86

Rumbek 9 95

64.—RUMBEK to SHAMBE.

By Captain E. H. Armstrong, 11th February, 1903.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Rumbek — — From Rumbek, road starts E. and S.E. for 6 miles to where a well has been dug out on N. of road, then S., S.E., and S. for 10 miles to well in Adwolians. Best well at a tobacco garden.

Adwolians 16 16

Good road through burnt villages; sandy.

R. Naam 6 22 From Adwolian, road due E. to through village and bit of forest to edge of forest on valley of Naam river. To river bed, 3 miles, and across plain and khors to edge of forest on E. 2½ miles more; going very bad, much cut up by elephants; valley requires causeway and bridging very badly; grass very high. From Naam, road due E., passing burnt-out village of Takidur after 3 miles, and dried up khor called river Laik (same as M’Buri of Feniar) 3 miles further on.

2½ 24½

Takidur 3 27½

R. Laik 3 30½ Close by on further side is Mera of Sheikhs Ateir Marial and Agiong, Agars, latter of Ayak, and adjoining is village of Galik. A well has been dug in khor, N. of Mera 5 minutes. Water in lake up to end of December, then found in pool further N. of that well up to February, perhaps later. From here road S.E. through Galik, 20 minutes, and turns E. to village Akot 6 miles distant.

Akot 6 36½

2 38½ Two miles more to far side of village. Road good, sandy, over high ground; water very far from surface. From Akot, road due E. to pool 3 miles, which had water until 15th January, boundary of Atwots and Agars; 2 miles on to

3 41½

2 43½

Apiot 1 44½ Atwot Mera, and 1 more to village of Apiot and Fort. At Apiot 10 good wells give water all the year. People are friendly and ready to help, but are not fond of carrying work. They are more manly and straightforward than the Agars, and I have hopes that they are not so treacherous in disposition. They carry bows and arrows as well as spears. From the fort, road is N.E., through villages of Chediop and Mogar which join each other, then through forest across deserted village of Manibin 9 miles on; to pool 3 miles; then through old mudiria with many small wells which do not require much digging to keep them open all the year, 3 miles.

Manibin 9½ 54

3 57

3 60

2 62 After 2 more miles valley of Lau is reached, commencing with khor and pool with water all the year. Up to here road was good, soil very sandy, small belt of forest before reaching river valley. Onwards the soil is sandy for 2 or 3 miles, then is composed of the usual black soil of the river valleys.

R. Lau 6 68 From the pool to first branch of Lau river 6 miles, and 2 more on to second and larger branch, then 2 more on to camp at edge of forest and village Sheikh Shrun. River valley very bad, much cut up and almost impassable, even without Hamla during rains; 7 or 8 khors as well as 2 branches of river to cross. Requires a good road made across valley. From Lau, road E., through villages for 3 or 4 miles, then through forest N.E. to villages and wells of Ajak and Gour, total 24 miles. Road cut up much by elephants, and in places grass very high. Village of Ajak, ground very sandy and bad for marching. From Ajak, similar road N.E. to Shambe, forest all the way except last 2 miles, total 20 miles.

4 72

Ajak 24 96

Shambe 20 116

Note.—Rivers Naam and Lau flow at about 4 miles an hour in flood, and about 3 miles an hour or less when flood is over. The Naam is about 10 feet deep in flood, the eastern bank of Lau 12 and western 10 feet. After rains both rivers fall to about 2 feet deep, and western branch of Lau is dry from March to May.

65.—RUMBEK to DARAGO’S and M’VOLO.

By Captain P. Wood, April, 1904.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Rumbek — —

Khor Ronga 6½ 6½ Half mile in width, quite dry by 1st January, 1904. Good water always obtainable from deep pools in swamp at S. edge of khor. Very good track.

Large Gemmeiza tree at Sheikh Keli’s old village 11 17½ Two wells close by. Fair water; good supply. Track good.

Well in shallow khor on right edge of track, half mile S. of Jati’s old house 8 25½ Deep well. Indifferent water—thick and much discoloured from clayey nature of soil.

Sheikh Mornyang’s house in Zeriba 10 35½ Water obtainable close at hand. Good track.

Rihan’s house 7½ 43 Water obtainable close at hand.

Sheikh Toinye’s 14 57 Water ½ a mile distant.

Darago’s 7 64 On bank of Naam river.

J. Gurshen (Sheikh Mehl’s village) 5 69 Water from adjacent khor.

S. G. Post at Sheikh Agon’s 9 78 Water from adjacent khor, also obtainable from Naam river.

M’volo 3 81 On edge of Naam river—right bank—at rapids, encircled on land side (E.) by perpendicular high granite rocks.

66.—M’VOLO to KIRO (BAHR EL JEBEL).

By Colonel Sparkes, C.M.G., March, 1901.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

M’volo 3½ — Site of old Government station on left bank, no sign of it left. New station now occupied by Government troops. This is a pretty spot. The river, now a tiny stream of clear water, falls over a mass of rocks and winds through great boulders, great rocky ridges line either bank, and many deleib palms assist in the attractiveness of scene. Swarms of guinea fowl about here.

Track leaves river and goes E. and passes through country more bush than wood, numerous small trees 6 to 10 feet high, with light green leaves, called umduti by locals.

Modo Village 2 2 Sheikh Umbo; village burnt by Nyam-Nyam Sheikh Tembura less than two weeks ago, when he raided whole country. Track now to N. of E. District Leizi ends and that of Kremu begins.

Kremu Village and District 1½ 3½ One large and three small wells here, giving ample supply of fair water, said to be dry before rains begin, but now in large well 4½ feet of water and diameter of well 7 feet. Track from Kremu fairly well marked, same sort of country, few more lulu trees. Gentle slopes up and down to plains, swamps in rains. Two khors which have now ample water (19th February, 1901), said to be dry in another month, but a permanent pool called Kulokho reported close by.

Khor Degaga 15 18½

Village (Bufi District begins) 1½ 20 Madi village, at present unnamed, being built to replace one burnt by Nyam-Nyam raiders.

Cross two khors which would cause some trouble in rains.

Balabbi Village 4½ 24½ Madi village, Sheikh Wanga, in Bufi district.

River Rodi or Yei 4 28½ A very fine river when full, now three or four separate streams, beautifully clear water 6 to 8 inches deep, running through sandy bed. Banks 15 to 20 feet high, and 100 to 150 yards apart. River valley as before described, only about ½ mile wide here. Lion heard at night, but game not very plentiful. Best trade goods in Gehri, Sofi, Leizi, Kremu and Bufi districts; cloth and beads, then brass, copper wire, or copper.

Bufi 2 30½ A bad road for 2 miles after crossing river, then old Government station Bufi, on river edge, right bank. Earthwork and ditch about 100 yards square all that remains. Track away from river to S.E. through thick bush.

Namusha District 2 32½ Large dura patch and two fair-sized villages; now in Namusha district.

3 35½ Another dura patch and village.

Wira District, late Belgian Post 3½ 39 Strike river again at clearing lately occupied by Belgians. Trees grow to water’s edge on both banks about here, a pretty spot. Belgians are known to natives as Tuktuk (Askari) and Kiro as Simsim. No special name for late Belgian post; it is in Wira district.

Dori Village 3½ 42½ Track lies E. of S., cutting off bend of river, and indifferent going over several dry khors.

Fashitaura 3 45½ Still in Wira district, track been bending W. of S.

J. Yaira, beginning of Tokuera District 1½ 47 A mass of black rock about 100 feet high and some 300 yards long, full of caves and used as hiding places for natives during raids, is about ½ mile from river. Trees still to water’s edge, and the wide valleys of rivers further N. seem to have disappeared. Cross several dry khors.

2 49 Many deleib palms near river.

Village 2 51 Small village; track lying S.E.

1 52 Through thick low scrub with no trees for about 1½ miles.

3 55 Cross dry khor and through mass of black rocks which crop up now all along track at intervals; country much more up and down, now no longer dead flat.

Village 2 57 Pass through more scrub.

Jebel Dubbo 3 60 Two high peaks of black rock connected by ridge, track now to S.W.

Beri-Beri Village District Tokuera 3 63 Touch river again first time for 14 miles; village about ½ mile from river, now small stream through rocks, trees to edge both sides.

Amadi 5½ 68½ Old Government station, earthwork and ditch 200 yards square on river bank, good situation, and village Keini, Sheikh Niari-Paka, about ¼ mile outside work and few huts inside. Cross several dry khors en route to old station; country pretty, many elephant tracks. Best trade goods, Tokuera district, cloth and beads. Leave River Rodi, the track for Kiro lies first to N.E., skirting round N. side of Jebel Dubbo; going bad until clear of outlying rocks, then fair villages both on E. and W. side of Jebel Dubbo, the former lately burnt by Nyam-Nyams from Makarakaland. Cross two khors running from Jebel to river; many such, now dry, khors with sandy and well defined banks, lined with trees run into River Rodi, a feature entirely lacking in rivers more to N.

Khor 9 77½ Large dry khor running N. and S.; track still to N. and E.

Mandia 1 78½ Sheikh Dia, large compact village with quantity dura grown round it, water in well, never dry.

Numali Village 6 84½ Large village, quantity of dura round; Sheikh Waga-Lanio, intelligent man; ample water from wells, never dry. Track still to N. of E.; going good, generally bush, few large trees. One mile to E. after leaving Numali, then N. of E. again, and village Murra, Sheikh Gureh, more commonly called Bilal. One small well ½ mile past village, but gives ample water and reported never dry.

Track from here lies to S. a great deal and zigzags a lot, but always trending well S. of E. Fine going through thick bush.

Mudo 10½ 95 Sheikh Nier Magura, one well similar to that of Murra.

Khor 3½ 98½ Large khor, now dry, running N. and S. Track now about S.E.

Khor 6 104½ Another large dry khor running N. and S., with sandy bed, track still to S. of E.

Vura Village 1 105½ Sheikh Di-Aniara; now in Kederu district, people still Madis. Track from here lies to E.

Kederu District, River Tafari 3 108½ Now dry, except for occasional pools; sandy bed about 70 yards wide, banks 8 feet high, apparently does not overflow. Natives say water always obtainable by scraping hole few feet deep in sandy bed. Fine trees line banks. Rhinoceros, elephant, buffalo, and various antelopes found near, also partridge and guinea fowl, but latter very wild.

From River Tafari track lies S. of E., and about 5 miles from river we cross to S. of 5° 30′ parallel and proceed through wood, now open and good easy going, now thick, and bad going, cross a few dried up swamps, and pass three villages destroyed by fire.

25 133½ Lulu trees appear again in considerable numbers.

Nyambara District, Metika Village (small well) 10 143½ Sheikh Volo-Likah of Nyambara tribe (the Yambara of Felkin and Junker); small newly opened well here, giving very limited supply of water, just sufficient for half-pint per man (45 men), but nothing for animals. Up to a few days ago people had been drinking from khors now dry. Between River Tafari and here absolutely uninhabited and at this time of the year waterless. A month ago ample water would be found in birkas and khors. In Nyambara district people now wretchedly poor and miserable, and generally bolted at our approach; huts few, small and badly built. From here track lies first to S.E., then to E. (?) through thick bush.

Golela Village 3½ 147 Sheikh Galenga-Lembu, fine looking intelligent man; Nyambaras speak quite a different language to Madis, and appear a low caste of people.

Well (fair supply) 2½ 149½ Two and half miles from village, one well about 20 feet deep, from which about fifteen gallons can be got. Reported never to fail.

Track slight N. of E., soil getting sandy barren, much thorn and scrub.

14 163½ Jebel Lado visible about 25 miles to S. of E. Track again slightly to S. of E. and country still barren and desolate.

9½ 173 An abandoned Belgian post.

Small well ½ 173½ Very limited supply of water, about two gallons obtainable per hour with much difficulty.

Khor 22 195½ Large khor comes in from Bahr El Jebel.

Track last 20 miles about E. and up khor country still a wilderness.

Kiro, Belgian Post 3 198½ To N.E. or khor on river edge. A now dry khor bounds post to N. Post consists of extensive collection of brick built houses and huts, and has accommodation for several hundred men. Surrounded by wooden stockade.

Anglo-Egyptian Post 3 201½ To N. of Belgian Post on water’s edge, stands well above river and surrounded by trees. This post was abandoned in May, 1901.

N.B.—Distances probably slightly exaggerated, specially from Amadi, as far from there we generally marched by night on account of scarcity of water.

There is only one river worth calling so, between Amadi and the Nile, that is River Tafari, though several dry beds of khors were crossed, which may be considerable streams in rains. River Tafari is said to run into Nile S. of Shambe.

67.—RUMBEK across NAAM to AWODI.

By Captain E. H. Armstrong, February, 1903.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Rumbek — —

6 6 First 1½ hours E.S.E., same as Shambe road, then ¾ mile S.E. through burnt village of Adole, and along N. of M’Bure Makwoj, then S.W. through scrubby trees and low marshy ground to khor with pool and two wells, 1¼ hours more. From there road S. along E. of khor, which has bamboo in it, for 1½ hours; cross khor, and after ½ hour reach Malit, which is close to khor, and has wells and pools in rains. Malit occupies a large extent of country, but very few houses in it. Apparently different portions of the village have their own names, such as Mabei and Mading.

2 8

4 12

Malit (wells) 8 20

Well 2 22 From there road to Iyen, S.E., cross khor again, distance 2 miles; plenty of water both in khor and one well. Iyen joins villages of Ateru and Damadar, which extend from it in S.S.E. direction. The cattle mera of all these villages is called Tenit, and much difficulty is experienced in making enquiries about district, as any of the above names may be used for the district. The Jurs are close to Malit, on S.W. side. Beyond Mading are following villages, or parts of villages, in S. direction, viz.:—Feniar, M’Bure-atit, Lair-achetit, Fanagir, Makur, Panicho, and Rumbel (?). I have not been to them, but the above is the order of position from N. to S.

4 26 From Ateru road to River Naam direction slightly N.E., passing through, after 1 hour, villages of Paniol and Matiang, both burnt to the ground. Naam River reached after 3 hours, the forest approaching within 1½ hours of river. From there road E., across valley to forest on E. side. River here winds very much, and is close to trees on E. bank. Track across plain, rough, and in summer is entirely under water.

River Naam 6 32

4 36

5 41 From here southerly road was taken along edge of forest for ½ hour, then through forest extending out W. towards river; road good. After another ½ hour pass through burnt village of Awog. Here road turns slightly westward on to old Fort Ayak, another 1½ hours. Fort in good position, overlooking river, which then passes quite close underneath; level of fort about 20 feet above river. Site seems very good, but natives say a great deal more rain falls than at Rumbek. Ditch and parapet still in good order; fort square shaped, sides about 300 by 400 yards. Road from here starts S.E., after ½ hour S., over red sandstone, with steep descent to river, and along edge of forest S. (river here bends away to W.) to cattle mera at edge of forest, which here again juts out in point and is close to river; distance from Ayak, 2½ hours. Half an hour further back, at re-entering angle of forest, is road, E. and then S.E., to village of Awao, 1 hour from river valley. From Billing, in another direction, S.E. then S., along edge of forest and close to river, with steep rocky banks, very similar to road ½ hour S. of Ayak. After 1 hour from village is road to left, to village of Awao, ¼ hour distant. Large village with cattle and sheep mera at S. end. (Road S., along river, continues close to edge of forest for 13 more miles, to khor where cattle were captured by late Major Hunter.)

Fort Ayak 4 45

8 53

3 56

1 57

Lam 9 66 From Awao road due E., over steep rocky hill, and onward over high ground, in places boggy, to village Lam, 3 hours. Valley S. of road and of Awao grows much bamboo. Lam is a small village; rain-water pools along road in summer. Village of Awodi 1 hour further on; large village extending E. and N. from above road. At N. end zeriba and tobacco plantation; about ten deep wells, 3 miles more.

3 69

Awodi 3 72

5 77 From here party was sent out N.E., and found so-called River Laik, then dry; no water found even by digging, but I fancy the natives know where to find water. This is the same watercourse as the M’Buri of Feniar, on Shambe road; it is about 5 miles N.E. of Awodi, and 6 miles further E. is village of Rumbel; no water found there. Probably the inhabitants during dry season migrate with their cattle to River Dok or Lau.

6 83

68.—RUMBEK to MANGI’S VILLAGE.

By Col.-Sergeant Boardman, March, 1903.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Rumbek — — Marched from Rumbek on 11th February, through Runga (Jurs) S.W., then W.S.W. to wells, across Khor Abeir. Pretty spot under high trees, several large mongoose at well. Halted ½ mile further on, country open and park-like. General direction S.W., country open forest and waste ground, then up steep hill into forest. Halted for ten minutes at well.

Khor Abeir 7 7

Sheikh Kali’s 11 18 On to Sheikh Kali’s, a neat village, 13 houses round a tree, Gemmeiza el Beit. Bamboo growing all around. Water obtained from wells. Road continues S.W. and S. for one hour, and S.E. for half an hour, ground sloping S. across successive belts of bamboo, open ground, and somewhat open forest; then S. and S.W. over ridge to village of Sheikh Gol, Then S.W. 1 mile across low ground. At 8 miles, road to Chums, S.W. Road continues S. along deleib valley for about 11 miles—many deleib palms, open forest, some large trees—across two small khors. Past burnt zeriba, Gol; merchant named Kayali on river, after 10 miles. Ground in deleib plain slopes W. to Khor Gulma. Moved on S. and S.E., skirting Khor Gulma, then smaller khor on W. of it, and halted at Sheikh Ding. Then S.W. 2 miles through thin forest and village, and on slightly S. to village of Sheikh Ri; halted just beyond in forest. Water about a mile N.E. From here marched S. through forest, villages, and across three khors; after one hour dura of Sheikh Marain (Wakil of Ri), and his village (from here village of Moinyeng about 20 miles N.E.). At first ground sloping to E., but after village crossed low ridge.

Khor Gulma 13 31

Sheikh Ding (Wakil of Gol) 1 32

Sheikh Ri 5 37

Sheikh Marain 4½ 41½

Sheikh Dogbei 13½ 55 Continued S. 1 mile, then W. and S.W. along low ground for one and a half hours, then S. and S.E. for another one and a half hours; road continues S. for 2½ miles more, crossing low ground. Halted E. of water. In three places on march low ground must be marshy in rains. Continued E. for 2 miles, then E. and N.E. for 1 mile along N. of khor, ground sloping from S. to N. through forest and village, then E. for 1 mile to dura of Sheikh Dogbei; water found on N. near road, then S.E. to more dura and few houses, on through village S. to wells; halted under tree on rising ground. Then S.W. for 1 mile along edge of forest, and W. for 1½ miles, round N. of kopje, then S. across low ground; here road continues S, W. and W. for 1½ miles round rocky hills, along side of forest, and close to (W. of) another khor, then strikes S., across khor to wells, called village of Sheikh Kolli, but village deserted long ago. Indifferent water, but near the surface, and frequented by game.

Sheikh Kolli (deserted village) 5 60

Village of Sheikh Abui 5 65 Continued S.W. for 1 mile, and 2 miles W. and S.W., over high open ground at first, then to left through forest, on S.W. for ½ mile, passing rocky hill, right-handed, then W. for 1 mile, passing other rocky hills, left-handed, which overlook valley to W., S. and E., the highest is 80 to 100 feet above ridge itself; high ground N., and on R. slopes in wooded ridges to W. and sheer S. Village of Abui N. and W., raided by Nyam Nyams. Halted at tobacco plantation. Water in holes in rocks, plentiful and excellent. From rocky ridge excellent view to W., showing successive banks of trees running S.E. to N.W., then S. and N.,. representing lines of khors and rivers, or their tributaries. Then back to two tukls of Sheikh Abui, and continued W. and S.W., passing through belt of fine trees on to village (Khartan) and across khor. From here S. and S.E., passing a patch of flat rocks through forest, then S. and S.W., up rising ground, through open forest, and S.W. for 1 mile; W. for 1 mile, and then S.W. again. Continued W. and S.W.,. over high ground, at first open forest, then clump of fine trees, gradually to S., scrubby forest and much burnt. Then S. down to dry khor with high grass, which apparently runs W. into River Roa or Gell. Water in pools to E. and W.

R. Roa or Gell 13 78

5 83 Crossed khor S. and then S.W. After 2 miles of burnt and open forest, crossed khor running S.E. and N.W, and after 4 miles came to belt of high trees, some of the large leaf kind, here the ground becomes low and covered with high grass on R. Guide took us round N. side of it, and brought us to river more than two hours earlier than was expected. Here we found there was no road. Guide had taken wrong road, had to find way back, S.E. and E., through high grass, then along path through forest to S., and then halted for information. Could get none, went on without hamla and found spot by river and sent for hamla.

Continued S.W. and then S., along edge of forest; on the left hand river several times came close, rocky banks and pretty, plain on R. varying in breadth, according to whether spurs of high ground and forest run out into it, or whether joined by flat grassy khors; crossed several small ones on river bank, and came to a pool in khor; halted for 15 minutes. Continued across similar ridge of forest burnt in places, then came to another big pond in khor; direction of march still S.

11 94 Moved along E. of pond and found the khor which runs from E. to W.; deep channel of water with broken muddy banks, crossed it a little higher up by filling in with grass and branches; mules and all crossed easily. From there road slightly W. of S., across similar ridges, crossing one broad dry khor, halted on ridge 300 yards from river; crossed Khor-el-Said and continued across spur of hill covered with burnt forest for 3 miles; direction S. and slightly W. of S., then came on khor running S. and S.E.; turned left along it and came on bend of river; rocky bed with cataract, rocks cut into long channels by flow of water, banks steep, high grass on far side. Had to unload animals and pass over everything by hand, river nearly bridged by rocks, but very uneven. Marched on again, going W., through high grass till meeting track after ½ mile, then S. along side of ridge with spurs running down to river, sometimes small open plain near river. After another mile passed over old zeriba of Abu Samat (1½ miles after crossing river). On in same direction, and struck river again near khor, pretty spot; then on across open low ground to another spur on which we halted. River runs S.E. from here. Continued S.W.W. into dense forest, partly burnt, no track; crossed spurs of two ridges with small sandy khors in valleys.

5 99

5 104

8½ 112½ Then marched S.W. along a ridge for one hour and a quarter; ground here slopes down E., with thick belt of tress on a hill about 3 miles E., then over deep sandy khor up rocky hill. Continued S. up steep hill, view all round; high ridges covered with large trees; after 1 mile went down to valley, crossed deep rocky khor, little water in pool. Khor going W. to N.E. Continuing S., crossed valley and camped on high tableland; water in khor below.

Marched again S., and after quarter of an hour reached a deep narrow khor; halted and cut away banks to cross animals; water in pool to E. (left). Continued S., crossed wide grassy khor after 1 mile going W. to E., then one hour over high rocky ground with tall grass; thin forest; crossed small khor (W. to E.), then low ground with tall grass and thick shrubs. Striking old track of Nyam Nyams, very indistinct, marched S. of W. for 1 mile over rising ground and through thick forest, then S.W., passing end of deep gorge which runs E.; lost track and marched S.W. over rocky ridge, crossed two small sandy khors about 50 yards apart, running parallel S.W. to N.E. Continued S.W.S., crossed gorge after 1 mile, then fairly level ground, rocky. Again struck track and followed it; ground drops to the E. Continued S.W., and after half hour crossed a wide khor, tall grass, running W. to E. Two mountains, Angaliri, in Bongo country, can be seen about 40 miles E. of here.

Mount Yara, Khor Mugei 16½ 129 Continued S.W. along rocky ridge, went down to Khor Mugei, water running N.E. to S.W. This khor is about 12 yards wide with tall grassy plain each side, and apparently drains hills over which I passed during the day and runs into River Leizi. Thick forest nearly the whole way. Mount Yara, a large hump-shaped mountain, covered with trees, about 2 miles across khor S.W.W. Halted here for the night. Marched in the morning S., along E. side of khor, for half hour through tall grass and few bushes, then S.S.E. for half hour, ridges to left (E.). After 4 miles turned W. of S. over ridge, thickly covered with large trees, undergrowth burnt, 5½ miles; then down to valley, very open ground covered with burnt grass and large ant hills, with dry khor in centre; valley about 1½ miles wide, several large trees. Mts. Angaliri can be seen from here N.E. Carriers say they are near (60 miles N.E. of) Hmadi. Continuing S. struck path going S.W., followed it along valley, crossed khor, dry, and marching through tall grass came to River Leizi, narrow, high banks, overhung by trees, dry at ford; crossed and entered village of Sheikh Sango (slaves of Nyam Nyams), wakil of Sheikh Agadamba, who is under Sultan Mangi. Here natives bolted; village stands on rise and fairly open ground. Tribe Homr from Babikr.

River Leizi, Sheikh Sango 11 140

Sheikh Agadamba 10½ 150½ Marched again and crossed khor, then over slight rise; burnt forest of young trees. Met party from Sheikh Agadamba; crossed khor running W. to E., little water, ground drops to E., large ridge in distance S. of E., then over slight rise, small forest, and crossed small khor (W. to E.); then over spur of hill and came to wells, open ground with young lulu trees. Continued S.S.W. over steep hill covered with thick forest into valley, fairly open; crossed khor, little water, over small rise, another small khor (W. to E.), then through dense forest S., crossing rocky khor and, turning E., entered village of Sheikh Agadamba, tribe Geate, from near Yambio, slaves of Mangi (son of Yambio); passed through village and camped on Khor Reishinda beyond, 10½ miles, running S.W. to N.E. into River Leizi (natives inform me that River Leizi runs into River Merridi (Gell or Roa.)) Sheikh Bangi, son of Mangi, from Kawa village Reisha, two days S.E. from here, tribe Abakas, came in here and does not seem very willing to give information. Continued W. through village, houses scattered in the thick of forest, and one house cannot be seen from another.

B’bonga Khor Zaza 11 161½ Turning S. crossed Khor Reishinda (S.W. to N.E.), then over rise, young forest, dense undergrowth, slopes W. towards khor; ridges in distance (W.). Forest thickens as we advance, several small open spaces. Continuing S.W., passed old village of Sheikh Agadamba, M’bagi; met party sent from Mangi; reached Khor M’bagi, water running from W. and bends S.E. Mount M’bagi 3 miles E. from here, cone-shaped and rocky mountain, few trees, about 100-150 feet above ridge. Continuing S., passed foot W. of Mt. Umbumbamba, oval-shaped and few large trees on crest, about 150 feet high; then over ridge W. of S. past dura fields, crossed rocky (granite) ridge W. of E. named Parkpe, and halted on outskirts of village B’bonga near Khor Zaza, rocky khor running N.E. to S.W. into River Ibba, little water in rocky pools; inhabitants of village recently moved E.; ridges of trees to E. and W.

River Ibba 4 165½ Continued S. and crossed Khor Zaza, on to ridge, thick forest continuing W. of S.; after half hour ground slopes E. to khor about 200 yards wide, thick weeds. Path runs parallel with khor, high ridges the far side(E.). Continued S.W. over high rocky ridge down to bend of River Ibba, 40 yards wide here, sandy bottom, winding in S.S.W. direction.

Marched S.W. over ridge and came upon river again, after crossing open ground in valley. River here bends N.W.W., banks very steep, about 3 feet deep, and 12 yards wide; a swing bridge crosses river here from N. bank to a tree on S. bank. Unloaded and cut away banks to cross, as bridge does not appear very secure. Crossed and camped on S. side in hollow open plain, with cliffs about 40 feet high running parallel with and about 300 yards from river. Tall grass which I burnt before camping. Climbed cliff and obtained following view:—i.e., Mts. M’bagi and Umbumbamba stand out very clearly N.E., with ridges of trees running W. to E. and N. to S. River winds towards N.W., with grassy plain on either bank, skirted on N. bank by forest, S. bank by cliff and forest. View S.E. obstructed by trees.

Khor Mungongo, Sheikh Tum 7½ 173 Marched on E. along foot of cliff for 1 mile, then unloaded and climbed cliffs. Continued S.W. over ridge, young forest; after 15 minutes an old deserted village of Sheikh Agadamba. Path to Yango (E.) from here; for half an hour through village, then down to Khor Bendawari, very marshy, about 200 yards wide, tall weeds; then along edge of khor S.S.W. for half hour, ground rising on far side of khor (E.). Khor then bends S.W., and path turns S. across it and enters forest of large trees, lulu type, undergrowth burnt; marched through forest S.W., several open spaces; then through thin forest and down to W. over fairly open ground, and crossed Khor Mungongo and camped on far side at 8.45 a.m. near village of Sheikh Tum, Wakil of Mangi tribe Agbea. Went on alone to village named after Sheikh, found very little water in well, houses scattered and very thickly populated, so decided to camp at khor and await messenger. Sheikh Zumio, son of Mangi, village Mazura between Khors Korsi and Mukongo, near village (deserted) Penio—tribes Baminda and Abunangi—came in; his district runs from River Ibba, below Penio, and W. along Benza’s district; seems very intelligent, and says he is anxious to be friendly to government.

Marched S.W. up slope of hill, then E. round E. side of Mts. Bandilia, high rocky mountains covered with short grass, then down W. of S. and crossed Khor Wure Mangonga; this khor flows into Khor Yur; fairly open ground at first through village, then young burnt forest. Continuing S.W. crossed Khor Tozo, open ground, marshy, then over ridge, bushy country; ground slopes E. to plain, with thick belt of trees on ridge in distance (N. to S.).

Village Umbeyur 8 181 Going S. over rising ground, passed Khor Mapeko with village Byuvo, Headman named Zaniwe, on N. bank. Continuing S. over rise, crossed Khor Magone, then thin trees for ten minutes, then through telibun fields to village of Umbeyur, Headman Bgumbo. A good many banana plants here, and several patches of date palms en route. Camped in village. Tribes Bagmonda and Abondu, slaves of Mangi.

Marched on S. through village, over rising ground fairly open, drops E. and rises to forest. After half hour crossed small Khor Wureyim. N. of this khor all Nyam Nyams tribes are called Abakas, also to E. and S.E. of here. Continuing S.S.W., passed deserted village of Abubunda.

Harimat of Mangi 7 188 Turning S., path runs parallel with Khor Yur—tribes S. of Khor Yur Abowis—which bends sharply to W. Crossed and continued S. over rise, bushy, passed old deserted village of Badigo. Then very marshy ground, crossing Khor Umbondingani, continues marshy for some distance E., with large pools of water. Going S. over marsh, crossed Khor Mungani, ground then rises, valley to W., far bank dotted with houses; harimat of Mangi. Then passing few houses, then E., S.E., and S. through thin forest, houses on either side. Ground drops W. Bananas plentiful en route. Continuing S.S.E. over rise, through thin forest down steep incline; crossed Khor Mabondi, dry at present, but about 10 feet deep during rains, and 100 yards wide, it ends about 1½ miles to E.; then up incline on far side; passed few tukls, through thin forest, young trees. Progress slow, having to cut road for transport, down slope and crossed Khor Mufeu, splendid large pool of water, excellent quality, houses close by. Then S. for five minutes and crossed bend of Khor Mufeu, over rise through thick forest, young trees; then S.E., S., and S.W., through thick belt of trees, so thick that sun did not penetrate, and was in semi darkness, down to Khor Masagissa (runs N.W. to Mufeu), and halted near pool of water. Very open ground near khor to E. and W. Cut path through belt of trees for hamla, &c. Trees of the lulu type the whole way. Crossed khor, very marshy ground for ½ mile beyond, then S.W. over rise, ground drops E., with thick forest in distance on high ground; passed old village of Abiama, Sheikh Leguar, this has been a large compact village, some time deserted; banana, manyok, cloth, and cotton plants growing in wild confusion.

Khor Masagissa 5 193

Khor Makatapu runs parallel with and to E. of path bending W., path crossing it near batch of tukls of Mangi.

Mangi’s Village 4 197 Continuing S.S.W. through thin forest, trees close on path; cut way for hamla, reach more tukls (deserted); camped beyond at pools of water, on open ground. Progress slow owing to thickness of trees on path. A large number of date palms in Khor Makatapu, and acacia all along banks.