Volume 2 — CHAPTER IV. (continued 2)

Abraham 6 149

Muttu 5 154 Meshra and various shifting tukl villages, some inhabited, some deserted. People appear to come here to build tukls before the rains begin, sow and reap dura on open spaces between the trees, and then move on. From here track is well defined though crossed by numerous other tracks. Trees, except on immediate river bank, cease.

Karakeila ¾ 154¾ Meshra, track to it branches off to right.

Abbas 4½ 159¼ Meshra, invisible from the path. Good pool and shade; from this, track resumes N.W. direction.

Bir el Gamal 16¾ 176 Road forks here into an eye shape. Good meshra and distinct road down to it. It is under high trees which show on N. side of track on river bank about ¼ mile off.

Ghabat 4½ 180½ Deserted tukl village of 40 huts. Jebel Arang is sighted bearing N.E.

5 185½ A track turns off N.E. to Jebel Arang, and one bears to left running direct to Hafar. Main track leads on to Meshra Kheiari.

Meshra Kheiari 6½ 192 A good meshra with fair shade. Meshra El Gelma at 191½ mile found dry. Large numbers of camels about here grazing. From here, track to Wad Medani leaves Rahad and runs nearly due W. on leaving the river, trees and shrubs soon cease and cotton soil plain is crossed to Kheiari a deserted village of about 40 tukls; a deep well of about 6 feet diameter has been dug, but is now dry. Track continues W. over plain, ground rising slightly to Hafar.

Hafeira 4½ 196½ Large tukl village over 100 tukls all well built. Inhabited by different tribes: Jaalin (few) Hawazma, Rufaa. One well supplies whole village, 72 feet deep and about 6 feet wide, very good water in it. Said never to run dry. Few cattle and sheep and other supplies. Like all other places between this and Gedaref it was laid waste by Ahmed Fedil on his march to join the Khalifa.

From Hafar track runs W. over cotton soil, is clearly marked. Clumps of trees and bushes in places.

Shebaga 14 210½ Small tukl village, few inhabitants.

Alarebab 9 219½ Track strikes Blue Nile about 1 mile N. of Alarebab, and opposite Wad Medani. Ferry across to left bank.

Wad Medani ½ 220

30.—ITINERARY OF BLUE NILE—KHARTOUM to FAZOGLI.

By Captain H. F. S. Amery, March, 1903.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Khartoum — — Up to Soba, cultivation good on both banks, though confined to a narrow strip—Sakias numerous.

Buri 3 3 L.

Kuku 1½ 4½ R.

El Gereif 2 6½ Island here at low Nile.

Karkoj 1¼ 7¾ R.

Um Dom Island 2 9¾ ½ mile above the island are the hillas of Um Dom R. and El Hagirat L.

Soba 4 13¾ On the R. are the ruins of the capital of the once flourishing kingdom of Alwa; on the L. a small village. Soba is the name of the district on both sides of the river, and continues to Soba El Taib a village 3 miles further S. on the R. bank.

Butri 4 17¾ Two villages of this name L. the other is 1 mile further N. From here on for many miles the character of the country does not change. The eastern bank is covered with thick, low thorn jungle, while the western bank is open and sandy, very little scrub and half grass. There are patches of cultivation round the villages, and when the water falls, a narrow strip by the foreshore of the river is cultivated with heavy crops of dura, lubia, sesame, melons, and vegetables. Some of the islands also are under cultivation.

Eilafun 3 20¾ Wood station and village L., a track leads from here to Geili about 75 miles. About ¼ mile inland on the L. is the Government rest house of Sabil.

Dueikhla 1½ 22¼ R.

Bageir ¼ 22½ L.

Bageir Sharg 2½ 25 R.

Bageir 1 26 L. Another small village of the same name.

El Shereig 2 28 R.

El Gedid 1½ 29½ L. First of three villages of same name extending for 1½ miles S. Cultivation round the villages.

Awag El Darb 3¼ 32¾ L. Between here and Masadia, a short distance inland on R. bank is the village of Sheikh El Obeid.

Masadia 2½ 35¼ L.

El Nuba 2½ 37¾ L. Largish village ½ mile from river.

Mahas Island, N. end ¾ 38½

Mahas, S. end 2¼ 40¾

Maid 1 41¾ Large village L. with Rest house on river bank and large mosque.

Alti 1½ 43¾ L.

El Nur 1 44¼ L.

Um Magad 3¾ 48 L.

El Tikena 2 50

Bishagra Island 1½ 51½ Villages L. and R. The one on L. large with three mosques. Former Dervish depôt and powder factory.

Fogur 1 52½ L. Small village.

Eidag 1¼ 53¾ R.

Takela ¾ 54½ L.

Sayal ½ 55 R.

Wad El Turabi 3 58 L.

Wad Esheib 1½ 59½ R.

Belula Kasembar ¾ 60¼ L.

Kalkol 1¾ 64½ L. Opposite S. end of island of same name.

Kamlin 2½ 64½ L. Head quarters of the Blue Nile Province, a large and growing village with market place, post and telegraph offices, and a good rest house in a grove of date palms at N. end of village. Inhabitants Jaalin and Danagla. More cultivation from here S. Country also much more wooded. Rest house.

Metemma 1½ 66 R. 1 mile inland. The road on the R. bank to Rufaa goes inland viâ the villages of Metemma, Branko and Deim.

Hamed El Nil 5½ 71½

Branko ½ 72 Some way inland R.

Um Degersi ½ 72½ L. Two villages close together.

Abd El Magdi 1 73½ L.

Helalia 2 75½ R. Large village.

Abu El Ashr 1½ 77 L. Helawin district commences here.

Bueida Island 3½ 100½

Hegeir 3 103½ R.

Wad Abu Furur 3½ 107 L. Large village with Government Rest house. R. bank wooded.

Hassa Hisa 4¾ 111¾ L. Commonly called Hassai, largish village, the direction of the river after this is N.E. to Rufaa. Hassai and Rufaa being at the points of the curves of the S. known as the Rufaa bend. Rest house.

Rufa’a 5 116¾ R. Wood station. Former grain stores. Ali Wad Abu Sin, and Wakil el Amin Abu Sin, SS. Alla Hemrab L. Rufa’a is said to be the second largest town on the Blue Nile. It stands some little way back from the river, and is a fairly populous place. Its inhabitants are a branch of the Shukria tribe of Arabs, and call themselves Rufaa-Shukria. Good crops are raised on the foreshore and islands in the vicinity, and melons are cultivated, upon an extensive scale on the flats up-stream of the town. The river here is very wide and shallow, and navigation in summer is extremely difficult.

Amara 2 118¾

Abid 1 119¾ L.

Ereibab 4 122¼ R. About 1½ miles inland.

Wad Belal 4½ 126¾ L.

Fadassi 4 130¾ L. Large village and Rest house. Good garden on river bank belonging to Omda of village.

Fadassi Amrab 2 132¾ L.

Tayiba 3 135¾ L.

Hamid El Nil 1½ 137¼ R.

Abu Haraz 1½ 138¾ Starting place of caravan road to Gedaref.

Abu Ushur ¾ 139½ R. Mouth of River Rahad. Water differs little from that of Blue Nile; rather more vegetable organic matter. Jungle begins both banks. This river, which rises in the N.W. slopes of the Abyssinian mountains, brings down a large volume of water when in flood. It enters the Nile at an angle of 70°, and its bed in February was 3 feet higher than the water surface of the Blue Nile at that time. The Rahad, with the exception of a few pools, is dry for many months of the year. Its banks at the junction are steep and high, quite 39 feet over the bed, which has a width of 71 yards. The flood-marks show that the rise of the Rahad is from 15 to 19 feet in height. The Blue Nile at this junction forms an “S” curve, taking a sharp bend to the W., and again another to the E. Its width, is measured, 595 yards. The banks of the Rahad River are covered with thick and dense jungle, as are both banks of the Blue Nile in this reach. Shortly before Wad Medani is reached, the W. bank becomes open again, but the forest on the E. bank is continuous.

Wad Medani 5 144½ L. Large and flourishing town, largest in Sudan after Omdurman. Head quarters of Sennar Province. Post and telegraph offices. A few European shops and good market. Civil population about 30,000. Soil limestone with sand and gravel—healthy; Mosque with high tower. Country S. of Wad Medani becomes thick jungle especially on E. bank.

From Wad Medani the shortest road to Sennar leaves the river and goes inland by Sariba, Wad Shenan, &c., meeting the river again at Danagila.

Goz El Fil 5 149½ On island.

Ereibab 1 150½

Kurdugeili 5 155½

Ganneb 6½ 162 L. About 1¼ miles from R. bank is Shabarga, the nearest point to R. Rahad at H. Sherif Yakub; about 7 miles across.

Bagadi 2 164 L. Large village.

Abd El Karim 6½ 170½ R.

H. Sherif Desis Yusef 1¼ 171¾ L. Rest house.

Doliba 1¾ 173½ L.

El Beriab 4½ 178 L. Large village on river bank in open ground. Supplies plentiful.

Mouth of River Dinder 2 180 Larger and more important river than Rahad. Breadth at mouth 120 yards (see page 114, Vol. I).

Hamed 6 186 L. Three miles inland is the large village of Shukaba.

Abu Sogra 6¾ 192¾ L.

Danagila 5½ 198¼ L. Distant from Wad Medani by direct road 31½ miles. Rest house.

Santobar 2 200¼ L.

Banat 2 202¼ L.

Barsi El Fadl 2¼ 204½ R.

Wad El Dai 3 207½ L.

Wad El Haddad ½ 208 L.

Wad El Abbas 6½ 214½ R. Rest house.

Meshra El Hagirat 5 219½ L. Rest house.

Habbania 1 220½ L.

Shambata 5 225½ R.

Deim El Mashaikh 5½ 231 L.

Sharif 1½ 232½ R.

Sennar 2½ 235 L. Now in ruins and deserted, old mosque with high tower still standing. Vide Vol. I. Rest house at Kabush.

Abu Geili — —

Kassab El Amin 9 244 R. Opposite large island.

Shekh Talha 6½ 250½ R. Rest house.

Ereidiba 2 252½ R.

Ereidiba 2½ 255 L. About 2 miles inland—large village.

Abdin 4 259 L. Rest house.

Abu Shoka 3 262

Dakhla Shellal 7 269 L.

Rammash 8 277 L.

Mena Yusef 6 283 R.

Wad El Ghazali 2 285 L.

Senga 2 287 L. Headquarters of a District and Detachment of Regular Troops here. Rest house.

Mena 1 288 R. People: Fungs and Hawazma; the sheikh Adlan is the descendant of the Fung sultans of Sennar. From here a direct road goes to Lueisa on the R. Dinder, distance about 16 miles.

El Gazair 6½ 294½ R.

Brodras 7½ 302 R.

Karkoj 5 307 R. Rest house. A large straggling village, surrounded by bush and tall grass. It is close to the river, the banks of which are steep. Inhabitants very poor and of various tribes:—Kongeri, Ashraf, Moghrabi, Kamatir, Jaalin and Agalin. Village on high ground, with small khors at intervals running into the river. Soil, limestone mixed with sand and alluvium—subsoil 9 to 10 feet from surface. Three small springs of clear water appear at south end of village, and reach the surface of the steep bank 9 feet from the top. On the L. bank in Nov. there is a large stagnant lagoon, which probably increases the unhealthiness of the site.

One hundred and ten hours by steam from Khartoum.

Karkoj used to be an important trading centre in the old days for gum arabic, tamarinds, cattle, cotton, coffee (from Abyssinia), vegetables, &c. This used to be the last place where one could lay in stores for further travel.

The river here is at high Nile 470 yards broad, average depth 23 feet, current 5 miles per hour; at low Nile the figures are 330 yards, 8 feet, and 1¼ miles respectively.

Surroundings bare. Woods, chiefly acacia, &c., begin at some distance off.

(Marno took 25 days in a nugger from Khartoum to this point, in February.)

The Upper Sennar negro race, the Hameg, now begin to populate both banks; a dirty, indolent race.

From Karkoj upwards both banks are highly cultivated and fertile, but only on the narrow strip which is liable to inundation at flood time. Camels become gradually replaced by donkeys and oxen. Too damp for horses; many mosquitos and poisonous flies (serút). Much rough cloth woven.

Track on R. bank lies through cultivation and occasional thick woods.

Seiru 3 310 L. Rest house.

Zumorka 6 316 R.

Lanni 1 317 L.

Abu Tiga 10½ 327½ R. On main track from Karkoj to Roseires. Rest house.

Barankwa ½ 328 L. Swarms of birds in autumn. Water channel 700 yards.

Abu Naama 1½ 329½ L. Rather less vegetation; soil contains much iron peroxide. Reported immune from fever. Rest house.

Rumeila 3 332½ L.

Tangaru 1½ 334 L. El Lakandi R.

Regeiba 6 340 L. Rest house.

Bunzoga 8½ 348½ R. Boat building yard (?). Two miles before this the Khor El Malwai comes on L., and a track goes from there to J. Gule. Rest house.

H. Sherif Ahmed 24 372½ R. Well-known point on river. Cultivation considerable.

Bados 11 383½ R. Rest house.

El Gereif 7 390½ R. Village up a back-water. Broad conspicuous belt of dom palms begins, and continues along ridge to Roseires. Rest house.

El Karori 2½ 393 R. On L. is mouth of Khor Dunia.

Abu Ramad 9 402 L.

Roseires[19] 3 405 R. End of telegraph. Headquarters of a District and residence of British Inspector; small garrison, post and telegraph offices. Old Roseires lies 3 miles further north. Hilly ground, thick dom palms along banks. Mimosa woods to the E. Plenty of game. Obstructions in the river begin some miles before here, and this is the limit of navigation for steamers or boats. About 2 miles south begin the Roseires cataracts. Malarial fever prevails during October and November. The soil here is composed of alluvium overlying granite, in which the quartz and mica are small-grained, evenly distributed throughout, with a minimum of felspar. Less frequently the blocks are of large grained quartz, combined with felspar. The granite has been extensively disintegrated.

Abu Zoghali 8 413 R. Mouth of khor of same name. Rest house.

El Dakhla 11 424 R. Best camping ground is where hospital was established after fight with Ahmed Fedil, 25th December, 1898. The village is over a mile from the river inland. Village Iwan marked on map is deserted. Latter part of road is thick jungle, and several deep khors intersect the path. Rest house.

Abu Gemai 12½ 436½ L. Abu Gemai, village on W. bank, about 20 people. Rest house. Sheikh el Imam Ramadan. Open road the greater part of the way, but there are several deep khors bounded by thick jungle. In 11th mile you come to watering place, Ardeiba.

Ardeiba 11 447½ R. Watering place.

Abu Sheneina 3½ 451 L. Abu Sheneina, a village on W. bank, about 200 people; Sheikh Abd el Wahid Abu Shenein. Rest house.

Famaka 9 460 R. The latter part of road is very rough indeed, going over shoulder of J. Fazogli; very steep and rocky about 2 to 3 miles.

Fazogli 1 461 L. Easy path.