Volume 2 — CHAPTER VI.

(SOUTH-EASTERN SUDAN.)

48.—NASSER to URYONG.[24]

By Major Gwynn, C.M.G., D.S.O., February, 1901.

There is a good road in the dry season from Nasser down the Sobat.

Practically no supplies can be obtained from natives, but guinea fowl are common and gazelle can generally be shot. There are generally plenty of trees and bush as far as Nyakwoik, but after entering the Dinka country the only trees which are seen are a few grown in the villages for shade. The Dinkas carry charcoal long distances for fuel.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Right bank, opposite Nasser — — Starting on right bank, opposite Nasser, the following villages were passed on the north bank:—

Tawba 9 9 ⎫ ⎬ ⎭ Small Nuer villages.

Nyakwoik 3 12

Gau 3 15

Shillup (1st camp) 1½ 16½ From this point a waterless road strikes straight to Fashoda, 3 days’ march for natives.

Ford Kofiat (Sheikh Akol) 2 18½ At Kofiat the river was forded. About 3 feet deep and 200 yards wide. Exit on south bank bad, but bottom firm and good. The road on the north bank was said to be overgrown, and there was little sign of inhabitants on the south bank; cutting across a large bend, came to Nyanlang, Fauwel, and Nyandeng; the latter is a small village near a dry shallow drainage khor. Thick bush and bad mosquitoes.

Nyanlang 3½ 22

Fauwel ½ 22½

Nyandeng (2nd camp) 3 25½

Minchom 2¼ 27¾ Thence cutting another bend through Minchom, striking the river again at Twednyang.

Twednyang 2¾ 30½

Ashol ½ 31 Thence striking across bend through Ashol, to Abong, thence to Patiyam, which is the last Nuer village; now enter the Nyuak district of Amol.

Abong 1½ 32½

Patiyam 1½ 34

Gehinyar 3 37 The first Nyuak village, on the river bank.

Reitsum 2¾ 39¾ Thence following the river through dry marsh, strike across bend through Fedwil.

Malwal (3rd camp) 3¼ 43

Fedwil 1¼ 44¼ Sheikh Gwat’s.

Bwoilbang ¾ 45 To Bwoilbang.

Wegin 2 47 At Wegin reach river again opposite marshy island and keep along bank.

Shwai 2 49 Leave river again at Shwai, and thence to Fatiwanyang, the residence of Sheik Aiwel, who is very friendly to the Government. There are a number of elephant near his village. Leave the river and skirt a swampy district. Some cattle.

Fatiwanyang 3¾ 52¾

Yakwoik 5½ 58¼ Yakwoik is a few miles up stream of Major Austin’s base camp, which however was not seen. From here strike across a big bend; no water obtainable till river is reached again, after a march of 12 miles. All trees cease near Wangnait, which is the 1st Dinka village, and is one of a large group of villages.

4th camp 1¼ 59½

Wangnait (5th camp), Sheikh Bang 17 76½

Gobtoing 3 79½ Thence cutting across a series of small bends to Gobtoing; thence to

Tubu 3 82½ Tubu, Sheikh Lual’s; thence to

Adong 3½ 86 Adong,

Dud 1½ 87½ Dud, and

Uryong 2½ 90 Uryong. Awut, an old woman, is Sheikha of Uryong.

Ford (6th camp) 1½ 91½ There is a ford 1 mile below here. Village at the head of the island, crossing 4 feet deep.

Uryong ½ 92 On the opposite bank is the 2nd village of Uryong, from which runs the direct road to Kodok (48 miles), vide Route 47.

49.—GOKJAK to KEIK.

By Captain H. H. Wilson, April and May, 1902.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Gokjak — — Small compact village on left bank of Sobat, good dry banks, few trees. Track from Gokjak runs over open plain, very bad going, black cotton soil; large cracks in ground, making it difficult for transport animals. Khor 100 yards wide, running parallel to river, dry in April; track continuous over open grass plain, mostly burnt in dry season, and no trees except one or two solitary ones to

1½ 1½

Shol Ajik 7 8½ Small Dinka village on right bank of Khor Filus, which runs from here to its mouth (10 miles from mouth of Sobat); khor dried up into pools, water muddy; few trees in village, also Sheikh’s tomb with huge elephant tusk. The tracks run on to M’Yolga; inland track the better, alternative track follows and passes under large trees for 3 miles; track bad to

M’Yolga 8½ 17 Long straggling Dinka villages on Khor Filus, water in pools, fair; many water-fowl. Sheikhs Ayung Yor and Agweir Owawe. Track now winds about the end of M’Yolga district. Two small villages on khor, and 2 miles further on enters bush of red talh, which leaves and crosses grass plain after 1½ miles, and rejoins khor 3 miles further on. Water available, banks of khor thickly wooded with thorn bush; a few good trees.

4 21

7 28 Small ferik, or cattle village, in dry season. These feriks are all same type, dome-shaped grass tukls, with open spaces with pegs for picketing cattle, &c. Some have zeribas.

Gekrek 3 31 Name of locality; good camping ground on left of khor, which is easily crossed in dry season; 2 feet of water covered with matted weeds, water fair; ground gradually becoming more wooded; heglig and gemmeiza.

Adodit 2¼ 33¼ Name of locality; khor twists about considerably; track cuts across a corner here, and joins khor again after 2 miles, and continues to

Biar 6½ 39¾ Name of locality; country between M’Yolga and Nerol uninhabited, being a “no man’s land” between Dinkas and Nuers; men of one tribe crossing to territory of other tribe do not return as a rule.

4 43¾ Small khor, merely draining few miles of lowlying land in rains.

Fan Yanglwel 2¼ 46 Name of locality; thickly wooded, with high knolls, good camping ground, water muddy. From here run two tracks; one to Nerol, along the khor; a second across country to Riul. Latter track crosses khor Fanyanglwel and runs along left bank of khor for 3 miles, passing one ferik at 47th mile, and then cuts across an open plain with few scattered trees, and meets Khor Filus at Riul.

1 47

The former track runs through beautiful country along bank of Khor Filus; thickly wooded, waterfowl in abundance, also harte-beest (Tiang) and Oribi; a little water in places, in the khor, under matted reeds. Khor very winding to Nerol (9 miles). Cattle feriks on R. bank of khor; fine sheet of water (some 2 miles long in places) 50 to 60 yards wide, and in places deep; good colour and taste. Village of Nerol about 6 miles due south, according to guides; at bend of Khor Filus, at mile 10, Khor Chirol or Nerol flows in, said to flow from Nyang Deng on Sobat, near Nasser, 30 to 40 yards wide, nearly dry (April). Track now runs along khor straight to Riul, 5½ miles further on.

Riul 6¾ 53¾ A cattle ferik on right bank of khor, village proper lies two miles inland due south, behind thick belt of trees.

Tut 2¼ 56 Cattle ferik under good shady trees, village proper inland behind trees; good camping ground; thick thorn bush ¼ mile on left of track; good pool of water in khor, 400 yards from camp, which is on rising ground, no trees for shade.

2¼ 58¼

Meinom 2¼ 60½ Cattle ferik, and village inland is visible.

1 61½ Another large cattle ferik, also rest of Meinom village proper visible inland; track now runs straight for 7 miles, passing feriks of Riang and Reir on the way to small khor; country thickly wooded on left of track, thinly on right.

7 68½

Fading 3½ 72 Important scattered Nuer village in trees on right of khor; large pool of water, surrounded towards its northern end by ambach swamp, many and varied waterfowl; a track runs from here to large village of Falliu, distant 7 miles S.W. in forest; water fair at Fading; cattle ferik and pool, with ambach fringe round edge, water bad.

1½ 73½

Fatowel 4 77½ Three cattle feriks of this name on khor; several pools of stagnant water; track crosses open plain 1 mile wide, and then for 7 miles runs through forest of Inderab, along bed of khor, crossing and re-crossing it, forest then thins out, and next 4 miles is over grass plain to

Shit 12½ 90 Large cattle feriks, village proper 2 miles away S.W. on left bank of khor; large pool of very foul stagnant water. No other water nearer than 3 miles fit to drink. Ambach swamp round water, waterfowl plentiful.

3 93 Track runs 3 miles across open grass plain, over good sandy track, and enters this red talh bush, which gives place shortly to thin forest of heglig; large trees.

Fulnob 3 96 Long straggling village on left of track, fair amount of dura cultivation.

Dwok 4½ 100½ A very large scattered village, well built tukls; cattle tukls being particularly fine; most of these Nuer villages are built in thin forest, making it impossible to estimate their full extent without penetrating long distances into the woods.

Amwot-el-Sogheir 4½ 105 Beginning of Little Amwot. Two or three shallow muddy wells; few trees; track now runs across Amwot plain, thickly populated; tukls in groups; probably homesteads every few hundred yards for 4 miles to the wells.

Wells of Amwot-el-Sogheir 4 109 Dug on sandy bank of a large shallow khor; khor dry in April. Banks lined with um suf; cattle ferik on edge of khor; wells 12 in number, 20 feet to 25 feet deep, 2 feet 6 inches in diameter; fairly thick forest of abu hemeira and trees called soba and leun. Leaving Amwot wells, track enters thick forest, which extends for 2 miles, then continues over plain for another 2 miles, finally runs through very thin forest to

Keik 6½ 115½ Residence of Nuer Sheikh Denkur; in centre of village is a cone, built of mud, 50 to 60 feet high, seen at least 3 miles off, surmounted with elephants’ tusks, and a huge spike like a lightning conductor; base of cone on east sides planted with elephants’ tusks, with points turned outwards.

Fair amount of dura cultivation; beyond village of Keik, to N.E. and S., is a vast open plain with no trees; no wells or other water found; ground is fairly high and presumably healthy.

Shit — 90 From Shit, which is 90 miles from Gokjak, a track runs almost due south, crossing Khor Filus; good going.

1½ 91½ Village proper of Shit about 1 mile away on left bank of khor in thick trees.

1½ 93 Group of 6 wells dug in bed of khor; cattle ferik on right bank of khor; cattle watered from these wells; water when drawn up poured into shallow circular troughs of puddled sand and mud, to enable cattle to drink. Another similar group of wells; track branches off to right, to small village, part of Amwot-el-Kebir, 2½ miles distant. Track now runs along bed of khor.

1 94

1 95

Amwot-el-Kebir 3¼ 98½ Filus, to beginning of Amwot-el-Kebir, in line of trees running north and south; track now descends across plain and crosses khor to main portion of village. Villages of great extent, part built in plain, but greater part (impossible to estimate) built in woods; tukls well built and very numerous; much dura cultivation; group of wells.

3½ 101½

Note.—No local Nuer guides can be obtained for any of the above country from M’Yolga to Keik, owing to the active hostility of Nuers. The only men who know the general lie of the country are Dinkas who have been slaves of Nuers, or who lived in this country before Nuers seized it. They can be obtained at M’Yolga, but, at the best, are not reliable as regards water or distances.

50.—Itinerary up the BAHR EL ZERAF.

By Major Stanton, October, 1898—Additions by Lieutenant-Colonel Sparkes, C.M.G., March, 1899.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

— — On entering the Bahr el Zeraf, the current is strong[25]—3 miles an hour—the depth 20 feet, and channel narrow at first; opens out from 30 yards to 80 yards a couple of miles up. Water is clear, and of a dark brown tinge. Jebel el Zeraf lies away to the south-east on R. bank 5 miles off; there are four distinct hills, all of volcanic rock, covered with bush. A broad open plain, marsh near the river, extends to the foot of these hills R., while L. is wooded and scrub—open plain behind; here hippopotami, elephant, giraffe, water-buck, and reed-buck have been seen.

5½ 5½ Grass plain both banks, with a little low scrub L. From here on to 30, flat marshy plain both banks.

24½ 30 Wood obtainable; some large trees L. bank, dry marsh R.

5 35 Bush commences both banks; river bends backwards and forwards, banks wet and marshy, and landing difficult. This continues till 60.

10 45 Dry place L.

15 60 Large open maya L. Water runs inland some distance. River continues to make loops and bends; channel 80 to 100 yards broad.

10 70 Scrub ceases both banks, boundless marsh extending to horizon opens up; several large sheets of open water are passed.

8 78 Farthest point reached by Major Peake, 5.10.98. Egyptian flag hoisted L. 14¾ hours’ steam from mouth of river. River 80 yards wide; current 2 miles per hour.

Kuchuk Ali (?) 2 80 River bends about a great deal; some of the curves are very sharp; patches of open water each side at intervals; open marsh both sides with 3 to 4 feet of water. Twenty hours’ steam from mouth.

2 82 Solitary small Dom palm passed on R.

3 85 Clump of thick small trees R. in 3 feet of water close to channel; thousands of divers build in these trees (October, 1898). Wood for steamers could be cut here, but with some difficulty, unless the water falls; scrub begins first beyond here on L. bank. R. continues open.

12 97 Large sheet of open water or maya about 1 mile away R.; bush on horizon beyond.

3 100 Low scrub ½ mile away R. Big trees on horizon west L.

Gauer (?) 10 110 Scattered Nuer houses seen on horizon 6 miles away L.; village 2 miles farther on under trees believed to be village of Gauer. Open plain R. Small clump of trees in water at 107, where wood could be obtained if necessary. Shallows sometimes to 4 feet; generally 10 feet.

10 120 Trees close to channel L.; open patches of water.

2 122 Maya and stream comes in L.; this leaves the proper channel at 130 higher up, and cuts across a corner direct.

5 127 Thick trees L. and clump of trees R., all in water (October); sharp turn west.

3 130 Channel turns again S. Maya and stream come in L. Solitary palm visible S. R. bank open marsh, bush ends L.

5 135 Solitary Dom palm passed on edge of channel L., marsh both banks, trees and scrub begin again L.

5 140 River bends west. Dom palms visible west.

4 144 Sparkes’ farthest point in steamer: aground.

Kuchuk Ali 4 148 “Lotus” River comes in R.; channel 50 yards, covered with large “Lotus Nymphæ.” Good wood station here just inside the mouth of “Lotus” River, where dry land can be reached by steamer. Wood extends back in water for 2 or 3 miles, but sufficient can be cut on dry ground. This is the last place where steamers can wood, as all other wood seen, being either Dom or Deleib palm, is useless for fuel. “Lotus” River dried up in March.

Zeraf turns west towards thick Dom palms; open water seen N.W. From here on the channel goes through numerous lagoons; the water appears slightly discoloured by mud; the stream increases in strength, and the channel in width.

3 151 Sharp bend S.; large volume of water flows out of channel into marsh N., and makes open mayas seen about 1 to 1½ miles away. Dom palms, close to river, dry ground 1 mile farther on L., thick Dom palms; channel 100 to 150 yards broad, numerous lagoons. Scrub and wood 1 mile away R.

Kuek 8 159 Small village on edge of lagoons, larger one behind under Dom palms, known as Kuek; natives Dinkas, and friendly. Egyptian flag left here with them; natives frightened by steamer, but reassured afterwards. After passing their village the regular channel gets lost as it flows to the west of clump of Dom behind Kuek, where it gets blocked by sudd, the water finding its way through the marsh and lagoons. The “Abu Klea” continued (October, 1898) in a southerly direction, and after crossing a lagoon 11 feet deep, which shallowed down to 4 feet, the main channel again struck, 18 feet deep.

Wayo — — Wayo village, Nuers, Sheikh Atar, close by. No Dinkas round this way. Left here by a narrow passage through the reeds, and joined what is evidently the main river, 80 to 100 yards broad and very deep channel. It comes in from other side of villages, and natives say it is blocked by sudd lower down. This channel through which neither steamer or gyassa could get is evidently that mentioned by Peake, between 150 and 160 miles, which he went through, and which was only 5 feet deep. It is now just over 2 feet deep.

Mogren el Buhur Zeraf 3 161 Junction of the rivers Zeraf. One channel comes in from S.E., which ends 6 miles up in a large open lake 9 feet deep, and with numerous villages scattered about on bits of dry ground surrounded by a sea of marsh and sudd.

The Bahr el Jebel is stated to be only a few hours in a canoe (about 6) through the reeds in westerly direction. It is stated to be blocked N. of this point.

The second channel comes in from a southerly direction going up-stream, after bending a good deal, passes an old tree like an English elm near two small villages, and flows close by large village of Ajiung. Nuer tribe here; Sultan Diu, the head of the Nuers in this locality, resides here. Large clump of Deleib palms, 500 yards from channel.

Ajiung Lake 14 175 Ajiung village R. Large village under Deleib palms. Lat. 7° 48′ N. (approximate). Large straggling lake; sudd S., S.W., and S.E.

13 188[26] Channel goes on another 13 miles, then ends in 3 feet of water on large sudd-covered lake. A large maya goes off N.E., which is declared closed about 5 miles up; this water probably forms the River “Lotus” farther down. If it is intended to go from the Bahr el Zeraf to the Bahr el Jebel, natives should be got from Ajiung to direct the course, which lies entirely through patches of sudd and open water. The direction marked on the map should be somewhat more towards the north. The channel at Ajiung, which is broad and deep, soon narrows, and current becomes less as the head is reached, clearly showing that a great deal of the water in the channel at Ajiung flows through the reeds and sudd, where the depth appears to be about 4 feet. The whole country S. and S.W. of Ajiung appears to be one vast sudd-covered lagoon through which the waters forming the Bahr el Zeraf flow until the main channel is formed; pieces of sudd measuring 40 yards by 30 were met after a severe storm in the western branch. Such pieces of sudd are liable at any time to block the present channel and cause a fresh one to open out.