General.The road described below is only one of several that might have been taken, but I believe it is perhaps the most direct. The portions between No. 6 and Murrat, and along the Wadi Alagi must be common to all routes.

Nature of road.There are no gradients on the road sufficiently steep to form a serious obstacle to laden camels, but there are a good many places after the Wadi Abu Bard is left, where the stony nature of the road is trying for the feet of plains camels, though the camels of the country seem to make nothing of it.

Water.Water is scarce and not always good. If marching with hamla,[1] arrangements should be made to carry at least two nights’ water.

Fuel and shade.Once the W. Telat Abda has been reached, fuel and shade can always be obtained with very little management. Till then there is practically no shade. No fuel between No. 6 and Murrat; a little between Murrat and W. Telat Abda.

Grain.No grain is obtainable. Sheep and goats and some milk can be obtained wherever Arabs are met with. The position of the Arabs and their flocks depends on the season of the year, and the distribution of the previous year’s rainfall.

Place. Hamla Hours. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total. Inter-mediate. Total.

No. 6 Station (S.G.R.) — — — — No. 6 Station on Halfa-Khartoum Railway, 127 miles from Halfa, and 1,555 feet above sea level.

British foreman. Telegraph office.

No station buildings nor accommodation for persons detained there.

Well with steam pump gives 12,000 gallons daily. Water contains some salts, but drinkable. Nile water can be obtained for small parties from station supply. Some “selem” bushes give firewood and a little grazing for camels. No inhabitants except railway staff. No supplies.

Is the base of the staff of the Egypt and Sudan Mining Syndicate now developing Um Nabari or Nabadi mine.

7 7 — — The track, now pretty well marked, makes straight for the N. end of J. Keheli, after rounding which it makes for J. Mindara, keeping a couple of miles to the N. of it. Road practically level and mostly good trotting surface, though sand a little heavy in places.

3¼ 10¼ — — Road crosses a low saddle and descends into one of the branches of the Wadi Murrat, amongst a lot of low tangled hills. After following the wadi for 300 yards or so, another saddle is crossed to cut off a bend, after which the wadi is followed till it joins the main wadi, just before the fort of Murrat is reached.

Murrat 1 11¼ — 34 The engineer of the Egypt and Sudan Mining Syndicate has fitted a pump in one of the wells in the wadi, which gives cleaner, though not less bitter water than before. The Arabs and Berberi servants drink it uncomplainingly, but Europeans are advised to avoid it if they can. About 10 miles slightly N. of W. up the main Wadi Murrat is the site of the Um Nabari or Nabadi mine, now being developed by the Company. Road quite easy along the wadi.

1½ 35½ On leaving Murrat fort the track keeps down the wadi for 1½ miles, then turns off to the left over somewhat stony ground, and, crossing a saddle and the head of another affluent of the Wadi Murrat about 1½ miles further on, descends easily into the basin of the Wadi Dayob. Across slightly undulating ground, aiming just to the left of J. Abu Dayob, a rocky sand-covered hill (with a pillar on the top) which, though only 200 or 300 feet high, stands up well amidst its surroundings, and turns down the wadi past its northern foot.

1 12¼ 1½ 37

1¾ 14 4 41

½ 41½

½ 14½ ½ 42 Along the wadi passing a gorge about 50 yards wide; wadi then turns rather to S.E. There is some camel grazing here.

1 15½ — — Road now turns to left out of wadi, and, after crossing low ridges for about one hour and passing near some “selem” bushes in one of the wadis, enters a plain ½ to 1 mile broad, and heads generally for J. Kerar Berar.

½ 16 3¾ 45¾ Half-a-mile further on J. Mosiai (pillar on top) is at right angles about 1 to 2 miles distant on left.

1½ 17½ — — Track leaves plain over low ridges and descends by gentle slope obliquely to Wadi Mosiai. There are a few of the peculiar dom palms of the country above where wadi is struck, and a little “selem” and some scrubby plants below. Track keeps down wadi generally, till it gets well clear of the low hills, when it turns half left over open plain, good going, and passes an isolated patch of “selem” bushes in Gabgaba.

1 18½ — —

1¾ 20¼ — —

W. Gabgaba 2 22¼ 16 61¾ The bed of the Gabgaba is ¾ to 1½ miles wide in places, consisting of several channels separated by flat gravel. The bed itself is sandy, honeycombed with rat holes, and very bad going. Immense quantities of the “handal” plant grow in it, and in years of good rainfall dura is cultivated.

2¼ 24½ 6 67¾ Track, leaving the wadi half right, keeps over a gravel plain with gentle slopes till it strikes the W. Telat Abda just outside the low hills.

There is plenty of “selem” in the wadi, giving good camel grazing and abundance of firewood.

Bir Telat Abda 3 27½ 8¼ 76 Track keeps up wadi, occasionally making short cuts to right to get better going, as wadi is heavy in places, to well at foot of rather higher hill on left bank which has two stone pillars.

The well gives good water, but not very much of it. About ¼ mile higher up under the right bank where the wadi forks is another well generally used for watering camels. From here the roads to Abu Tabag and Naba branch. That to Naba keeps straight on, that is up the right-hand branch of the fork. Naba is about 17 miles from Telat Abda, whence it draws its drinking water. Near Telat Abda well is a sayal tree that gives good shade.

J. Liseiwi 3 30½ 6 82 The track starts up the Khor Liseiwi, or left-hand branch of the fork, past the upper well, but soon turns to right from it to cut off a corner, and drops into the khor again at a water hole (generally dry) under Jebel Liseiwi (marked by a pillar).

W. Abaraga 2 32½ 6 88 Keeps up khor and, crossing a low saddle, descends into Wadi Abaraga.

¼ 32¾ ¾ 88¾ Keeps up wadi, which is well wooded with selem, sayal and the single-stemmed fan palm (Medemia argun), and passes some wells close under left bank. The wadi flows through very broken low hills, 200 to 400 feet high.

½ 33¼ 1½ 90¼

1¼ 34½ 3½ 93¾ Track issues on to open space where the hills recede and wadis come in from all directions.

— — 4 97¾ Track now turns N.E., passing between some low hills over gravelly plain, and turns S.E. up wadi, now confined between rounded reddish hills. The palms have now ceased, but selem is still found. The hills soon get lower and wadi less confined.

— — 4¼ 102

— — 4½ 106½ A track from Hesmet Omar.

— — 2¼ 108¾ Saddle at head of Wadi Abaraga is reached, easy ascent and descent commenced over gently sloping gravel to the Wadi Abu Bard which flows through an open valley 2 to 3 miles wide. Plenty of wood in wadi.

Wadi Abu Bard 7¾ 42¼ 2¼ 111

— — 2 113 The same direction is continued across the wadi till a low saddle is crossed, and track descends a branch of Abu Bard for a little more than a mile; then across an open space N.E. up an affluent of the same branch till it crosses a low saddle at its head and descends into an affluent of the Wadi Hesmet Omar. This part is very stony and severe on plains camels, though the gradients are not heavy. The track keeps down the valley, crossing a couple of affluents bounded by low hills, till it reaches another low, but stony saddle, whence it descends into and crosses an affluent of the Wadi Abu Tabag or Wadi Ga; after another 2 miles of stony ground the track descends into another branch of the Abu Tabag wadi, which it follows till it reaches the well.

— — 3½ 116½

— — 5 121½

— — 2 123½

Abu Tabag 5½ 47¾ 2 125½

The valley opens out a bit here, though immediately over the well there are low hills which still carry the breastworks erected by Beshir Bey’s men as a protection against dervishes.

The well is about 20 feet deep, of which the lower 12 feet, is revetted with stone. Plenty of water. Many small partridges.

An Inspector’s rest house has been built here. Some fine sayal trees.

There are a number of dom palms trying to come up, but none have succeeded in showing any trunk yet.

The wadi here is, I believe, called the Wadi Ga, but I am not sure.

Wadi Ga — — 2 127½ The track continues down the wadi for 2 miles and turns off to the left over flat and undulating ground; easy going for some miles, the general direction being a little to the left of J. Kirmai, crosses the Wadi Ga (plenty of selem) and cuts over a low saddle at the north end of Kirmai.

4¼ 52 10 137½

Wadi Abu Kitabab — — 2 139½ After about 2 more miles, heavy going, over sand-covered ridges the track descends into the Wadi Abu Kitabab, which joins the Wadi Ga about 1½ miles below where the track crosses it. There are plenty of trees of several different sorts.

2 54 3 142½ Road continues up wadi for 3 miles to a point where it forks.

— — 4 146½ The southern branch is also called Abu Kitabab. The track to Sohanit and Onib, viâ Mashushenai well (very little water), ascends it. The other branch is called Ebeirid. After ascending it for 4 miles, low saddle is crossed; after 4½ more miles of mostly very stony ground, ending in a short and very rough descent, the Wadi Abdelala is reached. This wadi is here well wooded. Lots of marakh. The track ascends it a short distance and then turns up a side khor, out of it to left into another and over an easy saddle down into Wadi Bitna or Butna; confined bed, high hills on right bank.

Wadi Abdelala 3½ 57½ 4½ 151

1½ 59 4½ 155½ Top of Mashushenai just visible, a few selem and a good many samr trees.

Wells 1½ 60½ 4 159½ Track keeps down wadi, cutting off one or two corners, stony, but not very bad going. The bed gets narrower and low cliffs more perpendicular till wells are reached at a place where a projecting cliff appears to bar the passage. Just before reaching it some tombs are passed.

There are two wells or water holes about 5 feet in diameter, surface of water 6 feet below bed of wadi. Lots of good water.

2 62½ 4½ 164 The track continues, original direction, for about ½ mile and then turns E., and a mile further on meets the Wadi Elei coming from the S.E. The united wadi now flows a little E. of N., the hills diminish and the valley increases in width and the vegetation decreases. After 2 miles the track turns off to right, up what was a good track a year or so ago, but is now barred by waves of sand. After some three miles, most part of which is very heavy going, the track descends into the broad and ill defined bed of an affluent of the Wadi Elei. Little grazing.

3½ 66 10 174 Over bare undulating plain, dotted with hummocky ridges of decomposed granite more or less covered with sand. Good going till a low and easy watershed is crossed and track descends easily to Wadi Nasari, a broad well wooded wadi that comes from Jebel Sohanit, and joins the Alagi a few miles N. of where the track strikes it. Track crosses wadi in the direction of Jebel Eigat and, passing through some low hills, reaches the Wadi Alagi. Track quite easy.

Wadi Nasari 1¼ 67¼ 3 177

Wadi Alagi 1½ 68¾ 4 181

The Wadi Alagi here is at least ½ mile wide, bounded by low hills on both banks, but rising higher behind on the right bank. It contains many refreshingly green trees of several sorts, marakh, heglig, sayal, sidr, arak, &c.

Wadi Taimurit 2 70¾ 6 187 Up wadi, which narrows to about 300 to 400 yards. It is joined on the left bank by a khor called Taimurit, up which there is a waterhole, good water. On the right bank opposite it is a hill conspicuously higher than the majority of those that overhang the wadi.

On both banks are remains of houses, and a quartz reef is conspicuous on the left bank. The latitude of junction of Taimurit and Alagi is 22° 1′ 11″, so most, if not all, the reef is north of 22°. It shows marks of having been prospected.

Wadi Neshd 1 71¾ 3 190 One hour further on, where the wadi changes the direction of its flow from S.W. to N.W., some tombs close under the right bank are a landmark for the Wadi Neshd, which comes in on the left bank opposite. There is good water in the Wadi Neshd.

Wadi Kamotit 2 73¾ 6 196 The wadi now begins to wind more. Two hours further on the Wadi Kamotit on right bank is passed. There is good water a short way up it.

Deraheib 4¼ 78 12 208 The wadi now begins to wriggle about without, however, much decreasing in width. The hills on either side continue to be of no great height, and in one or two places the track crosses low saddles to cut off corners; good trees all the way.

Water — — — — At Deraheib is a ruined castle of stone set in mud, with two or three pointed arches set in lime. Another building of nearly equal size in plan, but not so high, and the ruins of a number of houses and shelters are on the left bank. On the right bank, nearly opposite, are a number of ruined stone houses arranged in streets, and covering 3 to 4 acres. They are built in stone and mud, but a few arches in lime are to be seen. The ruins are evidently greatly filled in and might possibly repay excavation. There are small stone shelters of the same kind up various khors. The nearest water now is 2 or 3 miles off up a wadi that joins the left bank of the Alagi about 1½ miles further up.

The latitude of the N.W. corner of the ruined castle is 21° 56′ 48·5″.

On the low hills on left bank, within ½ mile of the fort, are a number of shafts sunk in the reef which is here very apparent. In December there were very few Arabs in the Wadi Alagi. In the summer there are many.

The rate of the hamla has been taken at 2½ to 3 miles per hour, as, I think, my camels went. Neither times nor distances, therefore, can be relied on absolutely.

2.—SUAKIN to BERBER.

Roads.There are two main routes between Suakin and Berber, both joining at Obak. The first, viâ Tambuk—Dissibil—Kokreb—Ariab and Obak, the most northerly of the two, is the usual caravan route. Major Prout (1877) states that “this route is quite practicable for wagons, the greater part of it being indeed an admirable road for wheels; some difficulty would, however, be found in getting wagons over the passes of Hareitri and Kokreb, and the dunes of Obak. At these three points some work, not much, but rather expensive, would have to be done to make the route a good wagon road.” The chief difficulty lies in the arid stretch of 114 miles between Ariab and Berber, for which Obak, lying about halfway, provides the only water.

The second route, viâ Sinkat—Hormareb—Amet—Rowaya and Obak is 5 or 6 miles shorter, but not so well known. It is occasionally used by caravans, but although the water supply is good, the road is bad about Sinkat.

(α) NORTHERLY ROUTE.[2]

Major W. S. Sparkes, October, 1897, and December and January, 1897-98.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Suakin — — Road runs in north-westerly direction alongside formation level of old Suakin-Berber railway. Good road, and easy going through scrub, with mimosa and acacia trees. Plain covered with camels and flocks of goats grazing. Gentle rise all way to Handub.

Handub Well 10 10 Water here practically unlimited, slightly brackish; good camp ground, fuel, and grazing for camels. Water about 20 feet down.

3 13 Track enters hills, which gradually close in on either side, going still good and gentle rise.

Otao Well 6 19 Two wells here, giving good water, holes in ground, could be easily developed, at present sufficient for two companies infantry and their transport. Formation level of old railway ends here.

Tambuk Well 5 24 Good water, supply practically unlimited, now three wells, would be easily increased. Good camp ground, fuel and grazing. Gazelle, hares, partridges, and doves along road, Handub and Tambuk. Water in wells about 15 feet down.

2 26 To here going stony and rough, then through a short defile, and somewhat better; trees and shrubs all along.

Khor Ossaud 5 31 A sudden, short, sharp ascent, a ½-mile level, stony ground, without a shrub, and down to Khor Ossaud broad khor, full of trees, &c.; excellent going.

Olip 1 32

Khor Adit 1 33 Khor Adit, the main khor from Sinkat, which is about 20 miles distant, meets Khor Ossaud. Some gazelles, many doves in this khor, also numerous herds, goats and camels grazing. Junction of khor, called Olip.

3 36 Track bends suddenly to right, and crosses a short and easy “agaba,” or pass. This is a short cut, main khor could be followed, and pass avoided, if necessary. This would make good halting place for infantry. It is 15 miles from Tambuk; plenty fuel and grazing. No water, but probably could be found if sunk for.

Dissibil (well) 7 43 One large well, which is merely hole scooped in ground, gives plentiful supply good water; similar water holes could be dug without difficulty, and supply water practically unlimited; good camp ground, fuel, and grazing.

Dissibil khor full of trees and shrubs; many gazelle and rock grouse and doves.

4 47 Track crosses small pass or agaba, thence runs under high mountains on left hand, called Jebel Tamei. Chain of low stone hills on right, going fair all time.

Odrus 7 54 Track debouches on wide open plain, perhaps 15 miles by 10, called Wadi Odrus; is covered with coarse grass and stunted mimosa. Gradual rise up to here, now gentle descent to centre of Wadi Odrus, where a narrow khor known as Tekarti. In good rain season considerable quantity of dura is grown along edge of this khor, but on Dissibil side and to eastwards only. Several well-grown trees along edge of khor. This is 15 miles from Dissibil, and would make suitable halting place for infantry. No water, except after rains; good camp ground, fuel, and grazing. A gradual rise from here.

Tekarti 6 60

3¼ 63¼ On right of track, under low hill, several stone huts of Hamdab tribe.

2 65¼ Wadi Odrus ends and track crosses outlying stony ridges of Amud range.

2 67¼ A sharp gradient and highest point of whole route is reached 2,870 feet above sea level. A sharp descent by about ¾ mile of rocky agaba or pass, which, however, presents but little difficulty to passage of all arms, leads to Khor Hareitri, a rather narrow defile between high stone hills. Stony, baddish going, full of sunt or mimosa trees, and patches of coarse grass. Three-quarters mile up khor is well, known as Bir Tamai by some, by others as simply Hareitri, a stone revetted well, giving good water about 12 feet down, rough wood huts on other side of well.

Khor Hareitri (well) (Tamai) ¾ 68

¾ 68¾

Adel Aweb[3] 3¼ 72 Rain pools found all along edges of khor, and 3 miles from Tamai a very large deep pool, giving any quantity good water. Natives say pools all disappear in winter a few months after rain ceases, but wells could be sunk with success anywhere in khor. The big pool above called by natives Adel Aweb. Good grazing and fuel here, indifferent camp ground on account of stones. Rock grouse and doves in khor, which is about 5 miles long.

1 73 Hareitri defile ends, and wide open plain called Wadi Tisartem is reached. Here dura is cultivated.

1½ 74½ A few huts on right, and some dura grown in good rain season, a good camp ground near here, fuel and grazing, but no water, though not impossible, might be found.

4 78½ Track crosses low rough ridges for ½ mile.

Salalat (well) ½ 79 Khor Haab thick with fair-sized trees, a sandy plain. Two and a-half miles off track, to left or south, is Bir Salalat, two wells, partially revetted wood, water good, about 40 feet down. Supply limited, each well could, perhaps, supply 600 gallons, and would then require three hours to refill, more wells could easily be sunk. Good camp ground, fuel and grazing, and some fair-sized trees near wells. These wells cannot be relied on as permanent. In 1903 they had been dry for 2 years.

3½ 82½ A slight rise brings track to level plateau of gravelly trap, smooth and firm, no vegetation, leading down to Khor Furd.

2½ 85 A very large patch cultivation dependent on rainfall, nothing could be grown this year.

5½ 90½ Across a neck, high irregular-shaped rocky hill few hundred yards to right, large black boulder to left. Quarter mile further is level, open, gravelly piece of ground, suitable for camp, with fuel and grazing, but no water. From here vegetation gradually ceases.

2 92½ Cross neck of Iglaladat, outlying ridge with high mass of rock on left. From here hills close in and track along base of outlying spurs and ridges.

Khor Kokreb 3½ 96 Agaba or pass leading to Khor Kokreb begins, a descent, a slight rise, then a steep and rocky, but not difficult, piece, in all about ½ mile, and khor is entered; ½ mile on and well called Hayaba, a hole in ground, water a few feet down and good, only one hole at present, but others could be dug in very short time, giving a practically unlimited supply. Rough wooden hut and Arab grave, and on left of well good camp ground, water, fuel, and grazing.

Hayaba (well) 1 97

Sarbit (well) 1½ 98½ Revetted stone well, good water about 10 feet down, sufficient for battalion, good ground, fuel, and grazing.

4 102½ Track, now well to right of khor, runs over a neck between small rocky hills for short way, then sand, then rocks, with graveyards on each side; ½ mile on and low rocky chain hides main khor from track, hills gradually close in.

1½ 104 Hills now come in from north at right angles to track, and appear to entirely block up khor; under these hills was situated the Dervish post of Osman Digna. A collection of tukuls, sufficient for about 200 men, and surrounded by a thick thorn zariba; clear, level space, some 700 yards to front and flanks, within 200 yards of hills at back; a well enough chosen position as regards covering road from Suakin. A narrow and short defile on extreme left affords an exit, and khor again widens somewhat.

El Matar (well) 1½ 105½ A hole scooped in ground, good water a few feet down, enough for half battalion at present, but could be quickly increased by digging other holes. Camp ground, grazing, and fuel here. Track now bends to left and crosses neck between two old graveyards.

Abd El Haabit (well) 1½ 107 Two wells here, about ½ mile apart, one on track, other ½ mile to left. The one on track a hole in khor, good water, limited supply, enough for about 100 camels, before refilling in two hours. Other revetted stone, now dry, but could easily be reopened.

All these four last wells in Khor Kokreb, which is wide, full of trees and shrubs, with stony hills here and there, many gazelle, doves and rock grouse. Track follows khor in all about 10 miles, when it branches to right.

Track now enters wide open plain of black stone, but good going, bare but for few stunted mimosa, and coarse patches of grass.

5 112 Stone ceases, and firm sand takes its place.

2½ 114½ Track bends to right among patches of huge boulders.

Directly after entering Agortitweb Plain, a black hill, surmounted by what appears to be two tower-like masses of rock, makes an excellent landmark, as tracks leads straight on to it.

Lagag Aweb[4] (called by natives half way to Berber) 1½ 116 Above-mentioned landmark is passed, it lies to left of road, and on close inspection becomes a smooth, oval base of rock, with irregular mass at approach end, while other block dissolves into two huge boulders, one with a considerable lean to east. Pass between this, which is called Lagag Aweb, on left, and a smaller rocky hill on right, is considered by natives as half way to Berber.

Wadi Yungul or K. Yomga 2½ 118½ Track now winds for 2 miles round base of low stony hills, crosses a neck, then on left a strip of coarse grass and stunted mimosa, bearing away to left, while hills on left also spread away. For some way further, track winds along base of hills on right, when they also spread away, and the stony plain called Wadi Yungul is reached, going good. Good camp grounds, but indifferent grazing, and no water or fuel in Wadi Yungul. Yungul Plain ceases, track winds to right between low stony hills. A little over 1 mile and narrow khor, with few trees and coarse grass, is crossed, then again winds through low hills. Two connected hillocks of white marble being a prominent feature immediately to left of track.

6½ 125

3 128 The Ariab valley is entered, it is thick with scrub and fair-sized trees, with numerous herds, goats, &c. The hills stretch away on either side. Natives report there is a well called Makardi off track to left under the hills, but that it gives but little water.

Ariab[5] (well) 3 131 Three miles up valley are Ariab wells. One large stone-revetted in centre of khor, giving practically unlimited supply, excellent water. Water about 20 feet down. 150 yards from this well are two others, also revetted, stone one gives plentiful supply, other partially choked for want of use. Good camp ground, grazing, water and fuel. Many of gazelle, doves, and rock grouse in valley. Track now leaves Khor Ariab on right, and goes south-west through black stone hills, low on right, high on left, somewhat bad going.

Level plain, covered tufts coarse grass, half stony, half sandy, good going.

Through low hills, rather bad going.

Wadi Barud — — Wide level plain, covered coarse grass, good going.

Wadi O’Duruk — — Level plain, good going, some coarse scrub, stunted trees.

Track leaves O’Duruk on right and passes to left of, and immediately below, a high stone hill, across a small khor, and then winds among low stone hills.

Wadi Temartua — — Good going, partly firm sand, partly stony.

Khor Laiameb 44 175 A broad khor running about east and west, almost at right angles to track. Said to contain pools after rain, about 4 miles to west of track. Small mimosa trees and coarse grass; water might be found if sunk for. Track after crossing Khor Laiameb again goes over hilly stony ground.

Jebel O’Fik 2½ 177½ On right of track country open and level again, a few trees and some grass here.

Wadi Tatua — — After passing Jebel O’Fik the Wadi Tatua is entered; sandhills, &c., in khor; Obak can be seen in distance; good going.

5½ 183 Across a low ridge, going still good.

Plain becomes covered with small mimosa bushes; 1½ miles through these bushes and Obak sandhills and drifts are entered.

Obak (well) 9 192 Large new well, gives 2,000 gallons when full; takes 10 hours to refill. Water slightly brackish. Natives say that there were formerly 50 or 60 of these wells, but have fallen in from want of use. Wells, revetted wood; water about 40 feet down. Indifferent camp ground, some grazing and fuel.

For 3 miles after Obak track lies through heavy sand over hills and drifts, then good level going, only occasional sand.

14 206 Some trees and grass here; suitable camp ground; water might possibly be found. Site of proposed well.

Jebel Eremit 2 208 A low granite hill on left of track.

Abu Odfa 5 213 Curious-shaped mass of rock on right of track.

Wadi Abu Selim 21 234 Some trees and grass; water could probably be found. Site of proposed well.

Maho Bey (well) 11 245 Good revetted well, 40 feet down, covered by mud brick fort; excellent water, practically unlimited supply, good camping ground, fuel and grazing.

Berber 6 251 Except for first 3 miles all going from Obak to Berber excellent.

SUMMARY of WELLS on NORTHERLY ROUTE.

Name of well. Distance apart. Description.

Miles.

Handub 10[6] Slightly brackish, unlimited supply.

Otao 9 One well, hole in khor; good water could be developed.

Tambuk 5 Good water about 15 feet down, unlimited supply.

Dissibil 19 One well, good water hole in khor, at present (1898) sufficient half battalion and transport; could be increased at will.

Tamai 25 In Khor Hareitri; well also by some called Hareitri. Stone, revetted, about 12 feet deep, good water; well itself sufficient for half battalion and transport, but supply easily increased. Rain pools all along Khor Hareitri; one very large and deep called Adelaweb, 3 miles from Tamai.

Salalat 11 One and a-half miles to left of road, two wells, revetted stone, one practically choked. Good water about 40 feet down, limited supply, enough for 50 camels, and takes 2 hours to refill.

Hayaba 18 Hole in sand, 4 feet deep, met immediately on entering Khor Kokreb; good water, supply practically unlimited, as similar holes can be dug in very short time.

Sarbit 1½ In Khor Kokreb, good water about 10 feet down, revetted stone.

Matar 7 Hole in khor, still Kokreb, good water, supply half battalion, but could be developed. Former watering place of Dervish Kokreb post 1½ miles off.

Id El Haabit 1½ Hole in khor, good water, sufficient half battalion, could be developed.

Ariab 24 One very large well, revetted stone, good water about 20 feet down; two smaller, also revetted stone, one now choked. Water sufficient at present for one battalion and transport, and could be developed.

Obak 61 One large stone revetted well, giving excellent supply of good water.

Maho Bey 52 Large stone revetted well, good water, large supply.

(β)—BERBER to SUAKIN (SOUTHERLY ROUTE).

The mileage is estimated by pace of camels, and there appears to be but little difference between the northerly and southerly routes; the Arabs, however, call the south road the longer.

Water supply is quite equal to that on north road, and all wells, being more or less deep sunk, do not get fouled by animals drinking direct from them, as is the case with surface wells, such as Dissibil, Hayaba, &c. These wells are also much more used by Arabs for watering their flocks than those on other track, and, without exception, they are surrounded by diruks, or earth-made drinking pans, which are scarce on other road.

A long rope and deluk, or native sort of bucket of thin hide, would be required at each well.

For movements of troops the north road is infinitely to be preferred, as going throughout is comparatively easy for all arms. On south road, numerous agabas, or passes over the hills, make going hard and difficult. The big agaba between Sinkat and Tamaneb is almost impossible for wheeled artillery.

(β) SOUTHERLY ROUTE, viâ OBAK, RAUAI, KHOR ARAB, and SINKAT.

By Major W. S. Sparkes, November, 1897.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Berber — —

Maho Bey 6 6 Vide report on north road.

Khor Abu Selim 11 17 „ „

Abu Odfa 21 38 „ „

Eramit 5 43 „ „

Obak Wells 16 59 „ „

Ofik 14 73 „ „

4½ 77½ Track to Rauai branches away to right. Also a track to Rauai a few miles after leaving Obak.

1½ 79 Through low stony hills and Khor Laiameb is struck; track runs straight along khor. Going good; a gradual rise; Khor Wusser runs side by side with Laiameb, and appears to form part of it.

17 96 Track leaves Khor Laiameb and crosses low neck of rock; low black stone hills on right hand; scattered boulders, some of similar shape to Abu Odfa on left hand. Hills gradually close in, and track crosses stony but not difficult agaba, or pass, some ¾ mile long.

¾ 96¾ A path to left leads over hills to Ariab.

1¾ 98½ Over stony khor, then into hills again, and is stony, steep, bad going.

Rauai Wells 2 100½ Stony sort of square, surrounded By stone hills, with a narrow khor running out each corner. Large graveyard on right. A few mimosa trees and some coarse grass. Indifferent camping ground. Wells ½ mile up a narrow, rocky defile, running from east corner of square; two wells, revetted stone, good water 15 feet down; practically unlimited supply. This defile impassable for animals, which must go by easier way over hills to south-west, and then down side of hill again to the wells. Some rough drawings of camels, men, &c., scratched on rocks round wells. Rock grouse and partridges here. Track now runs north-west over short agaba, across a stony khor, and again an agaba winding over bare, stony hills; bad going; then a long, narrow, sandy khor; fair-going; then a rough, stony agaba leading over hills called Hadia Aweb or blackwater rock; thence into Khor Thela, a short agaba, and Bir Makadia, in small khor same name, at head of Ariab valley; Ariab wells, about 6 miles west of north from here; one well good water 30 feet down, enough for one battalion, which would require 1½ hours to refill; good grazing ground and fuel. Some gazelle and grouse; north road about 3 miles from well. Going from Rauai bad, nearly whole way a succession of stony agabas. Prom here cross stony neck, then across head of Ariab valley. Pass Jebel Bokmaali on left hand, cross a stony neck, and

Makadia Wells 14½ 115

Yungul 4 119 Reach Wadi Yungul; north road about 8 miles to left; 4 miles, then cross another stony neck, and Wadi Beakwa, called by Arabs halfway to Suakin.

Khor Atbai 7½ 126½ Cross Khor Atbai; 3 miles on cross old dura patch, none this year on account of bad rains. Over two sandy and stony ridges and

Wadi Kokreb 3½ 130 Enter Kokreb valley; good going, firm sand, and thick with trees and shrubs. Over some stony ridges and

Khor Olowe 2½ 132½ Enter Khor Olowe, still a part of Kokreb.

Magwala Wells 3½ 136 Two wells, good water, 75 feet down, sufficient for one battalion; would require some hours to refill; these wells are said by Arabs to be oldest on road; they are revetted granite, which is deeply grooved all round from constant hauling up of water. Are much used by Shebodinab tribe, who have huts close here. Many hods, or earth-made drinking pans, round each well. Some old Dervish “tukuls,” which used to be occupied by a detachment, for collecting taxes. Good camp ground, fuel and grazing, pigeons and sand grouse; no gazelle. Wells of Abd El Haabit lie some 7 or 8 miles to north, and Jebel Wowitte, about 8 miles to north-east; Jebel Lagagaweb, the halfway rock on north road, is seen some 6 miles to north of west from here.

Khor now gradually gets bare and intersected by strips of stone.

4 140 Cross a ridge and Khor Lasheb, going indifferent, cut up by small watercourses over a ridge.

Wadi Habub 3 143 Wadi Habub. Going still indifferent, across many ridges running into khor, 5½ miles on; track runs along edge of hills, and then enters the Komotitai hills by very stony and difficult agaba or pass, about 1½ miles long, then into sandy khor, full of vegetation of sorts. 2 miles up this khor to the

Kamotitai Wells 11 154 Wells of same name, i.e., Kamotitai, three wells, revetted stone, good water 25 feet down unlimited supply. Many other wells in this khor now closed up; much used by Arabs, and at each well numerous hods. Good camp ground, fuel, and grazing; sand grouse and pigeons in abundance.

A short way past wells, track bends to left past large graveyard; then across alternate khors and ridges; indifferent going.

Khor Arab 7 161 Thick with trees of all sorts, and considerable cultivation in good season. Two deep watercourses crossed soon after entering khor; 3 miles on the track runs to north of khor, over stony ridges, with low stone hills on either hand.

Jebel Okwer 7 168 Jebel Okwer begins on left of khor, several small pyramid-shaped hills on right, and khor stretching away beyond them.

Khor Amate Wells 3½ 171½ Over a low ridge, and Wadi Amate begins; track running across large patch of old cultivation into a sandy khor; one well some 200 yards to right, another ½ mile straight on. There is a third well, now closed. These wells, revetted wood, good water 12 feet down; supply practically unlimited; many hods. Good camp ground, fuel and grazing. A stone hut close to well, and place thick with sheep and goats, and some cattle.

Track from here runs north-west, over small agaba into narrow khor thick with trees. Okwer range still on left; low hills on right 3½ miles, and hills on right hand, and track again enters main Khor Amate. Batta range on far right and in front; ½ mile on Okwer range ends.

4½ 176 Track to wells of Abu Goloda runs north from here.

3½ 179½ End of Khor Amate, and Batta range entered by fairly easy agaba, running east 1½ miles; then cross small stony khor, then another agaba through smaller hills, going bad.

Hormareb Well 3½ 183 Jebel Homugwer away in distance to right, ¾ mile off track to north in small khor same name, Bir Hormareb; one well, good water 25 feet down; supply about 1,000 gallons; requires some hours to refill. Several hods round well; good grazing and fuel, indifferent ground. Another well reported, same description, 3 or 4 miles further up khor to north. From here bad going, over stony ridges and small khors.

Wadi Ma’areit 3½ 186½ Large graveyard on right, and track turns sharp to left up Wadi Ma’areit, a broad level valley, running north and south; good going, and considerable cultivation after good rains. This year a few patches dura. North-west corner of valley thickly studded with trees, and was in old days a favourite summer resort of people from Suakin.

6½ 193 Hills close right in on either side, and the narrow wooded Khor Ashaf leads through hills 2 miles; track bends north-east, 1½ miles on, and cross a flat khor, with sparse vegetation, thick with flocks.

Now over alternate rough ridges and small ragged khors. 2½ miles down a sharp agaba into a small khor, green and sweet smelling, then wind round base of hills miles, and enter Khor Tabikuk.

Khor Tabikuk 7½ 200½ Across this khor, 3½ miles, top a ridge, and view Sinkat valley, green and thick with people and flocks; down small agaba, over low ridge, and enter valley.

Sinkat Well 4½ 205 One large well, good water 25 feet down; unlimited supply. Several large gemmeiza trees round wells give excellent shade; ruins old Egyptian fort also close to wells. Large village in valley, with several thousand people, built partly straw huts, partly Arab tents, small bazaar, and large stores of gum.

Good ground, fuel and grazing. Khor Adit leads from north Sinkat valley towards Khor Ossaud.

Track from well runs east across valley, then over low ridge across two deep watercourses, and up a stony, gradually-narrowing khor, which winds through the hills.

Khor Gebet 6½ 211½ A short but bad agaba, a small khor, a ridge, another small khor, another ridge and Khor Gebet; about 3 miles up this khor to right are two wells.

3 214½ Commencement of the great Sinkat Agaba or Pass, along which track runs for 3½ miles; very bad, difficult going, practically impassable for wheeled artillery, and would be altogether impracticable but for the work done years ago by Mumtaz Pasha, then Governor of Suakin. In this agaba the Khor Gwob rises, which, gradually widening, eventually reaches the sea some 7 miles south of Suakin.

Khor Gwob 3½ 218 End of agaba, and good going over firm sand; gradual descent down khor, which gradually widens. Hills on either side, thick with tamarisk, and cactus, &c. Huge boulders on each side also protruding from bed of khor. Pools of water, with thick reeds here and there, in which were many teal; also many partridges, rock grouse, and pigeons in khor.

Tamanib 6 224 Unlimited supply, good running water; fair camp ground; excellent grazing; plenty fuel. Many cattle grazing here.

Road now leaves Khor Gwob and turns to right; runs over low ridges, with small khors between; full of gazelle, ariel and hares.

10 234 Hills cease, and a straight down-hill run into Suakin, over plain covered with coarse vegetation.

Suakin 10 244 Suakin.

3.—BERBER to KASSALA.

Compiled in Intelligence Office, Khartoum, from Various Sketches and Reports, June, 1902.

This route is very difficult to map or describe so as to be of use to the traveller, as there are hardly half a dozen unmistakable objects along it by which he could identify his position.

As the Atbara dries up, it leaves a series of pools along its bed. Where the banks allow of these pools being approached by animals, the Arabs’ flocks are taken to water, and paths are beaten or cut through the bush leading to these meshras.

Guides.The ordinary Arab guide, even if he has been in the habit of travelling by this road for years, knows only a small number of these meshras, i.e., those most conveniently situated for the class of journey he has been in the habit of performing, and only one or two of the countless tracks. The only people who know all the small meshras off the road, and they perhaps over a limited portion of the river, are the Arabs (Hadendoas) who are grazing their flocks there. If the traveller, therefore, because he is marching with troops or for any other reason, wishes to use the less well-known meshras, he must depend on local inquiries and should, therefore, have with him men who speak Hadendoa.

Another great difficulty is the comparatively small number of men who know the names of any except the chief meshras. Consequently the average guide makes the names he knows extend over the whole length of the river. Where one ends, another begins. The Arabs grazing their flocks by the Atbara, on the other hand, will give you names for each little bit of the river, but these names are of little value, as no one else knows them.

Rest houses.There are rest houses at intervals of about 20 miles between Berber and Kassala.

Grazing.There is good grazing for camels practically the whole way.

Travellers.Persons travelling by themselves in the hot weather may find it best to march very early in the morning, halt at water, and march again near sunset, carrying enough water for the night-halt away from the river.

Supplies.No supplies of any sort are to be got along road, except perhaps milk and sheep.

Game.There is good fishing in the Atbara. Gazelle, bustard and ariel are seen along the route in localities, varying with the season. Wild asses are numerous north of Goz Regeb.

Inhabitants.Some Bisharin are met, and a good many nomad Hadendoas.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Berber — — From Berber the road runs between the river and the railway.

Darmali 13 13 A mud built village on the Nile; the usual road now branches southwards, crosses the railway and than a bare, gravelly, waterless plain to Khor El Hudi. (If preferred, the Atbara can be followed by continuing along the Nile to Atbara Station, which is about 7 miles from Darmali.)

Khor El Hudi 17 30

Khor Abadar or Abu Adar 8 38 From El Hudi, where the remains of the Anglo-Egyptian zeriba are still visible, the road skirts the river which is fringed with dom palms and other bush to Khor Abadar, near the junction of which there is a small stone wall enclosure and the remains of another Anglo-Egyptian zeriba.

Khor El Hilg (Rest House) 19 57 From here the road cuts off an angle from the river and lies across open gravelly desert till Khor El Hilg is reached.

(Nakheila, the site of Mahmud’s zeriba and the battle of the Atbara, is passed at the 12th mile, about 5 miles to the west.) There is dense bush about here, and the ground is likely to be swampy in the rains.

Sheikh El Sebib’s House (Rest House). 3½ 60½ The house stands on slightly rising ground. After passing this the country continues to be broken by small khors until after passing Gemmeiza, a good halting place, but much bush hereabouts.

Gemmeiza (Rest House) 12 72½

The country soon becomes open and level, and is covered with scattered selem and sunt bushes. The river is generally nowhere more than a mile and half to the west.

El Hagar 14½ 87 Here there are rocks in the river bed.

Khor El Fil 1 88 The going continues excellent until reaching Khor Adarama which is about 1½ miles in width and is marked by very thick scrub of sunt, talh, and tundub, as well as by the badly cracked cotton soil indicative of standing water.

Khor Adarama 8 96

Adarama (Rest House) 1½ 97½ Adarama consists of a large number of mud walled enclosures, scattered over about ¾ of a square mile of ground. These are almost entirely deserted and mostly ruined. With the exception of the inspector’s house, camel corps lines, and a few tukls, there are practically no inhabited houses. In the dry weather there are two water pools in the vicinity, one at the foot of Khor Adarama, and another about ¾ mile higher up. The approach to the river is easy, but the bank shelves steeply to the river bed from a height of about 25 feet.

El Hejera 1½ 99 A large zeriba of Osman Digna’s is passed.

Um Bashim 2 101 The name of this district. After passing through two patches of bush about a mile apart, the country becomes open and sandy, and sand ridges appear to the east.

El Siwan 8 109 Here the river may be approached, and further on the track passes within a few yards of the river bank.

Shellalab (Rest House near here). 10½ 119½ Shellalab, a sandy hill covered with marakh bushes. From here the track continues to the river bank, through scattered marakh bush, and sand hills lie away to the east. The river can be approached almost anywhere, and the path is never more than about ½ a mile from it. Jebel Ayob is visible about 7 miles due east.

Gala Amarus — —

Meshra Baluk or Um Beiba (Rest House). 21½ 141

From here the path traverses scattered bush, and in places badly cracked cotton soil, indicating the existence of water in the rains, and gradually ascends an easy slope on to the plateau, and thus cuts off a bend in the river.

Debba Gulal 13 154 Debba Gulal.

Meshra 7 161 The descent from the plateau begins 3 miles further on, and the river is struck at a good meshra.

Meshra Mitateb (Rest House). 3 164 The path continuing near the river, Mitateb, the first meshra in the Hadendoa country, is reached. The Bisharin country on right bank ends here, as also the Berber Province; the Province of Kassala is now entered. Rest house here.

From here the path gradually ascends a gentle slope to the plateau, from where Jebels Ofreik and Erembat soon become visible. Scattered heglig, tundub, and samr trees are noticeable, of these samr predominate as Goz Regeb is approached.

Goz Regeb (Rest House) 15 179 Two miles before reaching old telegraph hut the road descends from the plateau, and the river is reached at this hut, which forms a good halting place. The village of Goz Regeb is situated on a slight eminence close to the river on the left bank, and is marked by a few dom palms. Some Government buildings are now in course of construction on the right bank, the idea being that Goz Regeb should form a sanatorium for Kassala during the rains. The direct track to Kassala and that in general use leaves J. Erembat to the north, and strikes straight across the level plain. At about 38 miles, Bir Teishum is passed in the bed of a branch of the Gash, about 3 miles off the direct road. It has been lately opened up, and has a good supply of water, and Arabs were living here (March, 1902). There is little shade to be had on this road until after passing Khor Ebret, when kurmet and other green trees and bushes become numerous. On nearing the Gash, signs of cultivation appear.

Bir Teishum (Rest House) 38 217

Khor Ebret 20 237

Khor Gash 5 242

Tukruf 1¾ 243¾ Many wells in bed of Gash; unlimited supply of water.

Kassala 2¾ 246½ Destination.

Another Route may be taken from GOZ REGEB viâ ASUBRI to KASSALA.

Goz Regeb 179 179 The track ascends to the plateau and follows the edge of it, leaving the river several miles to the west. There are several meshras, all of which, however, are almost impossible to find without a guide.

Meshra Um Bereika 30 209 This meshra is somewhere about half-way.

Asubri 35 244 Good meshra and shade.

Goz El Handal 8½ 252½ About 5 miles after leaving the river for Kassala, the road from Suweihil joins in, and rather thick laot and kittr bush is traversed till reaching Goz El Handal, an open gravelly plain with short grass extending for about 2 miles From here to Umsiteiba there is little bush.

Umsiteiba 13 265½ A place where water stands in the rains; not much shade.

Khor Garatet 3 268½ Rather swampy and difficult for camels in the rains.

Khor Um Dahan 6 274½ Water stands in this khor in the rains. It is about 6 yards wide and 3 feet deep.

Khor Kunti 6 280½ There are Arab settlements near here in the rains for cultivation. After passing through some rather thick laot, &c., bush, Khor Kunti, about 8 yards wide and 6 feet deep, is crossed.

Khor Gash 4¼ 284¾ Many marakh and kurmet bushes until the Gash is reached.

Kassala ¾ 285½

4.—SUAKIN to TOKAR.

By Lieutenant A. M. Taggart, 1st Bombay Lancers, July, 1896; Captain McKerrell, Cameron Highlanders, December, 1897.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Suakin — — For the first 25 miles the track is well defined, and leads over hard ground never more than a mile or two from the sea shore. During the next 6 miles it changes in character, and for the last 25 miles leads through bushes and over sandhills, the tracks varying according to the season and the difficulties (drifting sand, &c.) to be encountered. There is no water to be had on the way. A telegraph line leads direct from Suakin to Tokar, but does not always follow the best road.

Leaving Suakin in a S.S.E. direction, the track is broad and distinct, passing over hard, sandy ground, with a few bushes 1 to 3 feet high.

Khor Gwob 7½ 7½ Crosses broad Khor Gwob.

3 10½ Track now 5 to 10 feet broad, approaches sea shore, then bears away again. Near this point (4 hours from Suakin) there are reported to have been some wells in 1885; water 6 feet down and brackish, hardly ever used.

2 12 Saw some trees due east, halfway to the sea; said to be wells of Helub. Water bitter, and but little used.

3 15 Track meets telegraph line.

2½ 17½ Over rising ground. Extensive view in all directions to the westward, well-defined khor trending north-west. Sparse bushes 2 to 3 feet high, ground hard and sandy, overlying coral. Track descends again; then level ground.

Khor Asab 7½ 25 Reached Khor Asab, which runs in from the hills to the west; it is called half-way to Tokar. Here a track branches off to the left, and leads to Teb.

6 31 Mud huts in ruins. Track becomes narrow and indistinct. Bush thicker, 4 to 8 feet high.

Surface shifting sand, with clay patches.

8 39 Crosses several small khors, sometimes traces of water here. Bush very thick.

Khor Tamai 2 41 Small pool of rainwater (at certain seasons only).

Mamuria 4 45 Ruined Mamuria of Mumtaz Pasha—mud house. Telegraph line crossed three times since the 31st mile. Bush becomes thicker.

Old Tokar 5 50 Old Tokar—in ruins. Broken ground and thick bush.

Abdulla Rai 2 52 Abdulla Rai Fort (fat loopholed tower, with pointed roof), on an eminence, visible from some distance. Nine wells here, water good—never known to fail, 54 feet down (July). Large herds of camels and goats in the district. Thick bush all round.

Track now due south-east to Tokar, surface hard and clayey, covered in places with drifted sand; bush 3 to 6 feet high. Tokar signal tower visible.

3 55 Leave the bush, across level mud plain to

Tokar 1 56 Tokar, vide Part I, Chap. III.

5.—TRINKITAT to TOKAR, viâ TEB.

By Captain Bower, I.S.C., and Editor, July, 1896.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Trinkitat — — The whole road from Trinkitat to Tokar is passable for all arms, and it is only when approaching Tokar that the scrub about the country becomes thick enough to interfere with the action of cavalry.

For 2½ miles from Trinkitat the road runs along a broad embankment, on which for 1 mile an 18-inch gauge railway has been laid down. After leaving the embankment there is a sandy stretch, and then about 2 miles of narrow embankment just broad enough for the railway line. This embankment in places has rather a serpentine course, and would have to be straightened before rails could be laid down.

El Teb 7 7 At El Teb there is a small fort, and an ample supply of water at a depth of 17 feet.

Three wells inside fort and numerous ones outside, these latter mostly for animals.

The water in the different wells varies in quality, but is all slightly brackish. No ill effects, however, appear to attend drinking it, and the men quartered there spoke favourably of it.

The parapet of the fort is a brick wall 10 feet high, 1½ feet thick; ditch 11 feet broad, 8 feet deep. Signal tower as at Tokar, 43 feet high. Scene of battle of El Teb, 29th February, 1884, just north of present fort.

There are two roads from Teb to Tokar, both broad (30-50 yards) clearings through the bush. The “new” road is the straightest, but leads over soft sandhills and is rarely used. The other road bears gradually westwards a mile south of Teb, and cannot be missed if the traveller keeps on the west edge of the clearing. Excellent going for all arms. Bush on either side 3 to 10 feet high.

Abdulla Rai 8 15 Junction of Suakin track. Abdulla Rai Fort, ½ mile west of track.

Tokar 2½ 17½ Tokar.

6.—(α) SUAKIN to ERKOWIT, viâ TAMANEB and KHOR ARAB.

By Major Powell, R.E., March, 1903.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Suakin — — Leaving Suakin by the Shaata Gate the track leads S.W. up the plain reaching the granite outcrops of the foot hills. Over broken, but easy ground to Tamaneb, where there is running water.

Tamaneb 8 18 The track passes W. of Tamaneb and ascends the flat valley bottom of Khor Gwob to 22 miles, where the junction with the Khor Nagit is reached. Leaving the route to Sinkat, which goes on up Gwob, the track turns S.W. up Khor Nagit till 27 miles, and then crosses a short rocky agaba into Khor Manab. Descending this easy valley, at 29½ miles the junction with Khor Arab is reached. To avoid a gorge the track ascends the hillside about 150 feet by a different rock path descending into the valley at 30½ miles. Up the valley, easy going, for about a mile pass running water (brackish and unpleasant), then ascend by steep zigzags up the left bank (1 in 4 at worst), after ½ mile along the steep hillside cross the valley and rise by a steep path to the saddle separating Khor Arab from the Khor Dahand. Descend into the latter by a rocky path and, after ascending with difficulty the rocky torrent bed for another ½ mile, reach the foot of the Agatba agaba at mile 34. A steep climb of ¾ mile brings one to the summit, after which the route crosses easy rises and dips to Erkowit at mile 39.

Erkowit 21 39

Good hill camels lightly laden took 11 marching hours from Erkowit to Suakin by this route, and would take about 14 hours to ascend. The track is not fit for horses or fully laden mules.

(β) SUAKIN to ERKOWIT, viâ KOLKALAI PASS.

By Major Powell, R.E., March, 1903.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Suakin — — Track leaves Suakin S.S.W. over the plain. At mile 13 crosses Khor Gwob, a wide open wadi with low banks and thick bush. This Khor is occasionally impassable when in flood. About mile 16 the road reaches the granite outcrops of the foothills, and descends into a wadi at Taharoi (mile 17), where there are usually several wells much resorted to for watering flocks. This year only one well and that almost dry. Depth to water usually 10 feet.

Taharoi 17 17

Tracks leads S. to Khor Tehela, leaving J. Gumberit to E. At mile 20 usually a well, but dry this year. Then S.W. into the Khor Dahand at 25 miles; track enters the hills and goes for 3 miles up the easy valley. At mile 28 there is water in the hill to S. and several Hadendoa tukls.

Track then takes to hillside, rising by zigzags up the end of a spur. At first 1 in 6, then 1 in 4 to the ridge, then very steeply 1 in 3 to another col, by short zigzags and rocky steps; very bad for pack animals, but good hill camels get up with light loads. Track descends along hillside for about 1 mile; all green, with shrubs, grass and ferns. Francolin, partridge and quail plentiful. Some bad places in descent, then easy path, and again short difficult rise to the edge of the Erkowit plateau.

Total ascent from Khor Dahand a little over 2,000 feet.

Camels took 3 hours. The track is not fit to ride over.

Erkowit 17 34 After about ¾ mile Erkowit is reached.

Leaving this route at mile 20 a track leads up Khor Masilli, S. of Dahand; the bad ascent on this is shorter, but equally bad, and the whole distance is longer.

7.—(α) ERKOWIT to SINKAT, viâ BARAMIL PLAINS.

By Major Powell, R.E., March, 1903.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Erkowit — — South over easy ground to head of Khor Amrat, down the sandy bed of the khor W.N.W. Leaving the khor the track rises for ¼ mile over a stony slope, reaching the Baramil Plain at 4 miles from Erkowit. For 14 miles the track runs W.N.W. over the firm surface of the plains. Large herds of ariel are seen, a few flocks and nomad Arabs, but no water. Down stony and occasionally narrow khor N.W. to Towai Wells, which are at side of khor 12 feet deep. Water fair and plentiful.

Towai Wells 18¾ 18¾

Sinkat 2¾ 21½ Down Khor Towai over a low stony rise and descend W.N.W.; wide khor until it joins the open Sinkat Valley and reaches the well and ruins of the old Fort at 21½ miles.

(β) ERKOWIT to SINKAT, viâ KHOR GEBET.

By Major Powell, R.E., March, 1903.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Erkowit — — Route descends the valley W.S.W. from Erkowit by rocky surface track over ridges and dips, rising after 2½ miles by a stony ascent to the edge of Baramil plateau. This length is the worst part of the route, it is practicable, but not good for loaded camels, and is easily capable of improvement by unskilled labour.

Gebet Well 14¼ 14¼ Along Baramil plateau, W. for about 2 miles, then N.N.W. over gentle ascent, and cross an easy but stony agaba, and descent N. down a khor leading to the open valley of Gebet. No obstacle. Gentle descent N.W. to the well at 14¼ miles. Water good; large flocks and herds; one well 30 feet deep. Down the open valley W.N.W. 3 miles, where route is joined by the direct track from Suakin to Sinkat, viâ the Sinkat agaba, then W. 1 mile to a short stony agaba leading into the Khor Abu Shid, the main valley of which is reached at mile 20. Thence easy going over a wide wadi to Sinkat at mile 23.

Sinkat 8¾ 23

8.—KASSALA to SUAKIN, viâ FILIK, MAMAN, and KHOR SITARAB.

By Lieut.-Col. Mitford, April, 1899.

(Corrected up to 1900.)

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Kassala — — On leaving Kassala, a N. by W. direction is taken over flat, sandy ground, intersected by small khors running into the Khor El Gash; many low trees of the acacia tribe and the green-leafed kurmet bush, but passage among them easy in any direction.

Khor Debeloeid 5½ 5½ A shallow khor, flowing from S.S.W. to N.N.E. two miles on; this khor is recrossed, flowing westward; here the trees are thicker and taller.

Khor Gamam 3½ 9 A branch of the Khor El Gash, 20 feet deep, 15 to 20 yards wide; proceeding down the khor for ½ mile the wells are reached. Banks thickly fringed with high tamarisks; bush very close.

Bir Gamam ½ 9½ Two wells; now 12 feet deep, 3 feet diameter; water plentiful. Many wells exist now in this khor for about 2 miles N. from this point. After winding about in the bush for a mile, country again becomes open; many open spaces half-a-mile to a mile in breadth. Direction N. A good deal of cultivation here.

Gamam 5½ 15 Formerly a large Hadendoa hamlet; its site now marked by a stony mound to the E. known as Habuba. A mile on one passes many skulls and human bones scattered all over the ground for some distance. This spot was the scene of the first encounter of the Kassala garrison and the Dervishes in the winter of 1883-4. Later on Osman Digna had a large standing camp of Hadendoa at the same place. Arabs say “20,000 young men” were collected there and guarded by Baggara horsemen, who, when food failed, refused to let them leave; so many hundreds died of starvation.

Hageror 9 24 The name of the district. At this point, 1 mile W. of our route, is the site of the old telegraph maintenance post of the old Suakin—Kassala telegraph line, close to a branch of the Khor El Gash (Khor Herbub). Arabs say water can be found 10 to 15 feet below the surface anywhere in this khor; fringed with high trees. Direction now is E.N.E.; country as before, but cotton soil.

Khor Bahr Shamil 3½ 27½ A shallow depression, 200 to 300 yards broad, no defined banks, thickly grown over by laot trees.

Khor Delai 3 30½ Twenty yards broad, 4 feet deep, flowing W. High trees along banks. At the 33rd mile the trees disappear; country is cotton soil with tussocks of grass, full of holes and breaks away at every step. Very bad going for men and animals. As the Khor Herbub is approached, grass, 3 feet high, becomes thicker.

Khor Herbub 10¾ 41¼ A branch of the Gash, 20 feet broad, 20 feet deep. Proceed due W. for 1¼ miles through high trees.

Bir Tokar 1¼ 42½ One well,[7] 20 feet deep, 3 feet diameter, 1 foot of water at bottom of well. After drawing 400 gallons supply was exhausted and water came in very slowly. Water good. Good grazing for horses and camels, and plenty of shade. Retracing one’s steps back across the Khor Herbub, a direction 72° (true) was taken and followed as far as Khor Togan. Bad cotton soil and tussocks of grass as before.

Filik 2½ 45 Formerly the largest and most important collection of hamlets of the Hadendoa of the Gash. Now no traces, with the exception of three charred dom palm trees, which supported the roof of the old telegraph maintenance post. Many wells, and water plentiful in Khor Tokar ½ mile W.

Going very bad; at the 49th mile belts of laot trees are passed through. At the 53rd mile surface of ground improves; more sandy, with patches of small stones or pebbles.

J. Tisheiga 11 56 One mile to right. Ground now descends gently; several small khors are crossed, running westward; trees in khors and along banks, kittr and samr. Ground sandy, with occasional patches of stones; excellent going.

Khor Yelkuk 5 61 Also called Telkuk. One hundred yards broad, flowing westwards. Ten miles up this khor are wells and an Arab settlement. Many trees; good grazing for camels. Two miles to the north are low black hills called J. Kadabu. Country as before.

Khor Taugon 5½ 66½ One hundred yards broad, banks 4 feet high. One well here not yet reopened, in bed of khor; high trees and dom palms in bed and along banks. Two and half miles E. is J. Taugon. General direction 62°.

Khor Shamfeid 2½ 69 A small khor running into Khor Maman. Same direction being followed, J. Maman with its four peaks straight ahead. Ground rises gently and then descends towards the Khor Maman; with stones in places.

Khor Maman 6 75 One hundred yards broad, banks 4 feet high; many high trees and doms; excellent grazing for camels. Crossing the khor and following up its right bank for 1½ miles the wells are reached. Under J. Maman are seen many hundreds of stone huts, which, according to the Arabs, were built many centuries ago; also many large stone graves.

Bir Maman 1½ 76½ Two wells, 40 feet deep, 3 feet diameter, water good and plentiful at all seasons.

On leaving the wells, the track, very faint, over stony ground, made by the party constructing the new telegraph line, was followed for the next 40 miles. The telegraph line itself is within sight of the track on one side or the other. Track proceeds up khor for ¾ mile, then passes round S.E. corner of J. Maman, and turns due N. J. Maman on the W. and J. Tudab on the E. form a pass, 1½ to 2 miles broad; ground sandy, with patches of stones; flat, good going; several small khors are crossed.

Khor Hashaneid 6 82½ One hundred yards broad, 3 feet banks. Dom palms and trees.

Khor Tudab 2 84½

Khor Fagada 2 86½

Khor Toteb 1 87½ Eighty yards broad, 5 feet banks. Runs into the Khor Kudameieb. Dom palms, kittr, samr, and the thornless kurmet trees. One and a half miles E. is J. Yaied, some 1,500 feet high, and 6 to 7 miles long, a mass of black basaltic rock, steeply escarped on its western side.

For the next 12 miles, ground traversed is hard sand, sloping from hills on the E., and covered with stones; very bad going; in the small watercourses (during rains) are belts of samr and kittr trees.

Khor Gedamaieb 4½ 92 Fifty yards broad, 6 feet banks. Trees; 2 miles on, a similar khor is crossed, bearing the same name.

At 96½ miles the top of a watershed is reached, and J. Kureib comes in sight, E.N.E. J. Bakutneb is some 3 or 4 miles to the N.

Khor Abuladein 7½ 99½ Twenty yards broad, 6 feet banks. Ground now sandy, and more trees.

Khor Serera 4 103½ One hundred yards broad, 6 feet banks. Dom palms. Runs into the Khor Abu Ledein.

Khor Togul 3¼ 106¾ Thirty yards broad, 3 feet banks. Follow the khor 1 mile down stream.

Bir Ali Kalai 1 107¾ One well 40 feet deep, 2 feet 6 inches diameter; water good, but supply only 300 gallons at date, and refilled very slowly. Khor Weidab joins Khor Togul from the S. lower down.

Returning up the khor 1 mile, a N.E. direction is taken. Ground very stony and undulating, and intersected by several large khors. Trees in watercourses and along banks of khor. The track runs more or less parallel with J. Kureib, 4 or 5 miles distant to the E.; a range some 8 miles long, 2,300 feet (approximate) above the general level, very precipitous on western side; black basaltic rocks.

Watershed 9¼ 117 Up to this point all khors crossed run into the Khor El Gash; northwards of this watershed, khors run into the Khor Langeb.

Khor Arideib 4 121 The direction of the new telegraph line is left 3 miles before reaching this khor. Direction N.N.W. Low ground sandy, with trees and grass; high ground stony and rocky.

Khor Kei-Eiteb 5 126

Khor Gambeleib 1½ 127½ The downward course of this khor, trending W. and S.W., is now followed for 4½ miles; several subsidiary khors join it from either side. Water could probably be found anywhere here, as trees are finer and creepers are festooned along the trees; many kurmet bushes, marakh, and tundub; good grazing for camels.

Bir Hamashaueb 4 132 Also called Bir Akrat. One well 50 feet deep, 3 feet diameter; water good and plentiful.

Returning up the khor for 2 miles to where Khor Gambeleib joins Khor Homashaueb, the upward course of the latter khor is followed for 2 miles, and then a N.N.E. direction taken. Ground very stony and rising; intersected by small khors running from hills to the east.

Khor Omli 12 144 No defined banks; its course marked by the trees.

Khor Yaskalab 4 148 Also called Khor Kubri. One well here 45 feet deep, 3 feet diameter; water good, but supply uncertain; it is generally dry at this time of the year.

Khor Hedaweb 5 153 Similar to Khor Gambeleib. One and half miles down the khor is Bir Hedaweb. One well 9 feet deep, 3 feet 6 inches diameter; water good and plentiful; there is said to be a better well 1 to 2 miles further down the khor.

Bir Hadaueb 1 154

On the south side of the khor, close to the well, are the remains of the old telegraph line maintenance post.

Returning up the khor ½ mile, a branch khor coming in from the N. is followed up past a large graveyard. At the 156th mile this khor is left, and the neck between two rocky hills is crossed. Going very bad; rough and stony.

Khor Belag 6½ 160½ Two hundred yards broad, 2 feet banks. Excellent grazing for camels in this khor. For 7 miles its downward course is followed. Arabs say that it flows into Khor Windi, but at 167½ miles the khor appears dammed up with sand dunes 8 to 10 feet high, and its level is the same as that of the surrounding country.

Khor Hegadab 8¼ 168¾ Flows towards the E. Ground ascends, and a mile on a stony pass between the hills is reached. J. Adarabab now comes in sight, noticeable from several chimney-like rocks which stand up above the general level of the top of the range. A short descent, then a sandy plain with patches of stones in places.

Khor Windi 4 172¾ This khor is entered, and its down-stream course followed for the next 8 miles. No water now obtainable in this khor; trees are more stunted, and their leaves more yellow and dried up than in the preceding khors. At 177½ miles is the site of the old telegraph maintenance post and well, now filled in many years ago.

At 180 miles the khor is left, and a plain traversed, alternately sandy with tufts of grass and stony; several narrow deep khors are crossed. At 188¼ miles the level of the country suddenly drops some 20 feet.

Tamarisk bushes and trees commence.

Khor Langeb 19¼ 192 One hundred and fifty to three hundred yards broad, banks 15 to 20 feet high. Banks on either side thickly fringed with tamarisk trees; excellent grazing for camels. Arabs are restarting breeding camels in the vicinity of this khor; one drove of nearly 300 young camels were seen. One day S.W. up this khor, Khor Odeib is said to enter it; all the khors already enumerated, from Khor Areideb to Hedaweb inclusive, run into Khor Odeib. Half a day to the E. Khor Windi joins it.

Bir Tamashnauer 1½ 193½ One and a quarter miles up this khor is the well; 25 feet deep, 3 feet diameter; water plentiful, but very smelly and brackish. Arabs state that at present there are no wells open further up the khor; lower down are more wells and a few pools.

Returning ¾ mile down the khor, a direction N. by E. is taken; several small tributary khors are crossed, and then ground ascends gently and becomes stony.

The next 45 miles is known as the Wadi Ossir. J. Adarabab and Shaba on the E., and a series of ranges of hills on the W. form the sides, 8 to 10 miles apart. These hills form a funnel through which the wind blows steadily during the winter months; sand storms very frequent.

J. Karamriba 4½ 198 Two black stony hills, 200 feet high; ½ mile to W.

Eilogwa 3 201 In the hills to the E., 3 to 4 miles from the track, are said to be rock cisterns with water; supply said to last from rains to rains.

Khor Ossir 5 206 Flowing S.W. Runs into Khor Langeb.

El Fogani 2½ 208½ The same khor is recrossed, flowing S.E. Good grazing along and in this khor.

Direction N.N.E. Ground still rising gently; sandy, with tamarisks bushes and samr trees, very stunted, 4 to 5 feet high. Some marakh and araag trees. Occasional belts of stony ground.

Watershed 16 224½ Top of the watershed is reached; ½ mile to W. is a low stony mound, 50 feet. Ground now falls from J. Shaba range towards the western hills.

Khor Shenkerat 5 229½ Three to four miles to E.; in the hills are said to be rock cisterns. The old telegraph maintenance post is under the hills. Ground now becomes very stony, falling towards the W. and N.; in the shallow depression between the flat spurs are Abyssinian aloes. Three miles on ground becomes more sandy, and samr, marakh, and some laurel-like bushes are passed through, becoming thicker as the khor is approached.

Khor Ossir El Tahtani 9 238½ Fifty to one hundred yards broad, 5 feet banks; flows N.E. The range of hills on the E. now terminates. A sandy plain is now crossed; scattered samr, etc.

J. Meiz 5 243½ A low conical hill is passed close to the track to the E. 3 to 4 miles to the W. in the range of hills Arabs point out J. Maiz, where water is said to be plentiful.

For 2 miles stony ground, then sandy again; track passes through several groups of low detached hills. At 254½ miles ground becomes more cut up with khors, and gradually ascends and becomes very stony; the last mile into Khor Siterab is a stony defile; going very bad and in single file. A sharp ascent into the khor.

Khor Sitarab 16½ 260 A rocky khor 20 to 50 yards wide; bounded by hills 40 to 60 feet high on either side. In the bed of the khor are great blocks of granite, through the interstices of which percolates water, which collects in the clay bed of the khor and forms small pools at close intervals all down the khor, averaging 15 to 20 feet long, 2 to 4 feet broad, and 6 inches deep. Water very brackish, osher bushes, a few tamarisks, shush grass and reeds grow in the bed of the khor.

From the khor a well defined track runs all the way to Suakin. For 4 miles ground is very stony and broken; few sammur trees.

Khor Alifeyeit 4 264 Two hundred yards broad, 10 feet banks, sandy bed. Ground now becomes sandy, and trees thicker; samr, araag, heglig, labakh and tundub trees. Gow grass during and after rains; good sheep grazing ground.

Khors Sedayat, Ashat, Erim, and Shadat 5 269 These four khors are all crossed in 1½ miles; no defined tracks; trees and bush in bed and alongside the khors. A few miles eastwards these khors open out into the plain. For the next 3½ miles ground is stony.

1½ 270½

Khor Issi or Issei 1½ 272 Fifty yards broad, 2 feet banks.

Khor Sarobai 2 274 No defined tracks; sandy; trees and bush.

Khor Wintri 4¼ 278¼ A point of crossing; this khor has commenced to divide up into branches.

Four miles on J. Gumberit is passed 1 mile to the W. Country more open; eastward a clear view down to the sea.

Khor Gwob 10¾ 289 One hundred to two hundred broad, shallow, no defined banks. Ground descends gently, and on reaching the ridge, ¾ mile distant, the town of Suakin comes in sight. Trees become fewer and bushes lower.

Suakin 8 297

9.—TOKAR to KASSALA, viâ KHOR BARAKA.

(Various.)

Grazing.Plenty for camels, &c., all along the route.

Water.Anywhere for the digging, except between Khor Lokweb and Khor Ali Gebrat, 28 miles, and between the latter and Kassala, 18 miles.

Camping ground.Good anywhere along the route.

Wood.Plenty for fuel and for making rough shelters.

Going.On the whole excellent for camels, horses, &c. Convoys should not take more than 14 days to do the journey from Suakin.

Parties without heavy baggage should do it easily in 9 days.

N.B.—As the major portion of this route leads through Italian territory, it is not now generally used south of Khor Langeb (vide note to Khor Langeb, 51st mile).

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Tokar — — Leaving Tokar, the track runs a little west of south across the plains, leaving the Khor Baraka channel to the west.

10 10 Traversing a broken tract, covered with eminences strewn with sand, enter the Khor Baraka. Vegetation on much larger scale; tall tamarisk trees. Channel 50 yards broad; hard sand; excellent going; banks 10 to 12 feet high, and thickly wooded.

There are more routes than one; sometimes along the channel, or on either bank, according to season or circumstances. Broadly, the Beni Amer inhabit the eastern bank, and the Hadendoa the western.

Temeren 2 12 (Tamenrê = 10 wells.) The wells here, two in number, are situated in the bed of the Khor Baraka, depth about 20 feet, and produce plenty of water of a brackish nature. Another account (1897) says two wells, close to fort; one well only used, good water 50 feet down. The khor here is about 80 paces wide, with low banks, and is comparatively bare of trees. During the floods of the Baraka, these wells are flushed, the water being thick and impregnated with alluvial mud. The country on the left bank is open and stony, and remains so until the line of the Jebel Shaba hills is reached. To the right bank of the khor a certain amount of cultivation exists, which increases in amount as the Tokar delta is reached. Heina range visible to south.

Jebel Shaba lies 26 miles W.S.W. of Temeren; track to it clearly marked over stony plain by occasional stone heaps. Contains grass, ravines, shrubs, and numerous pools of water (July); one large deep pool at foot of hill containing water all year round. Good look-out post in all directions.

The route, after leaving Temeren, bears for a mile or so south-east to avoid the numerous sand dunes and drifts lying close to the right bank of the khor, and then changes southwards.

2 14 A belt of considerable bush is now passed through, after which the country becomes open, rough, and sandy; the khor about ½ a-mile to the right-hand side.

Well 1 15 One well; good water.

The route continues in a generally southerly direction, passing through sand dunes, covered with a considerable growth of tamarisk bushes sufficiently high to conceal a mounted man.

1 16 Khor Toshikh joins the Baraka on the west bank; route enters the Baraka.

Here large khor also runs in from the east, main channel now from 30 to 40 yards wide, banks varying to 30 feet high. Natives say the whole of this bit of country for a mile west, and to Jebel Haina east, is under water in the rainy season. Tamarisk bushes line each side, nothing can be seen from the channel.

Seven miles on, track leaves the khor, runs west on a sandy plain for a mile. Eleven miles on a black hill 150 feet high runs from west bank half across the khor.

Lower Debetawateb 7 23 The hill of Haina runs down to top of channel on east side; a narrow gorge is thus made, through which the rush of water at flood is very great. When it is a very high flood, a channel is also formed round the west side of the hill. Just beyond this there are some old disused wells in the channel that were known as Lower Debetawateb. After this, the khor opens out to about 800 yards wide, sand dunes and scrub everywhere, track winds round almost due west, and reaches Upper Debetawateb, where there are two wells, plenty of good water, close to surface. Track leaves channel here and runs ½ mile through thick jungle on to east bank, and then winds round south over sandy plain. Five miles on, guide pointed due west to

Upper Debetawateb 3½ 26½

Odwan 5 31½ Odwan, lying in the khor, one well. Eight miles on, hills of Shaba and Heina run down to banks of channel, track leads east of some low hills, and khor is seen winding west a good deal.

Tefadi 5 36½ Some large sand hills in khor, guide said this was Tefadi. No well, but water easily got by digging. Track now leads over bad ground broken up by watercourses, sand dunes, &c., and re-enters channel 4 miles on, then leaves it and runs on to west bank, winding gradually south-west into Khor Farag Salem. (Laiameib.)

Laiameib 6½ 43

Farag Saleib 3 46 Here there are 12 or more pools of water, rather salt. This khor runs south-east into Khor Baraka, and where it meets it, there is a small stone enclosure on a hill held by Arabs under Sheikh Abu Fatma, called Langeb. There is one well in valley at foot of hill.

From Khor Farag Salem is seen Jebel Ada Abab, about 10 miles to the south-west. The track runs from this khor south-east, then south-west over rocky ground, skirting the Khor Baraka, of which the east bank is lined with hills.

Khor Langeb[8] 5 51 Five miles on track enters channel, and 100 yards further Khor Langeb[8] runs in from the west, about 25 yards wide, and described as similar to Khor Baraka. Directly afterwards the track leaves khor and proceeds for 8 miles over stony ground on west bank, and then for 11 miles over alternate rocky and sandy plains, direction south, then re-enters khor and passes pool of dirty water, and after heavy going in the channel reaches two pools with any quantity of clear sweet water, called Tebhateit.

Tebhateit 23 74

[Other accounts of the road from Khor Toshikh to Tebhateit are as follows:—

10 22 At 10 miles from Temeren a large number of sandhills are reached, covered with a good deal of scrub and tamarisk trees. These sandhills proceed from the neighbourhood of the khor towards the Jebel Heina; they are not of any height, but would form admirable concealment for horse and foot men. After passing through the sandhills, the route re-enters the khor, being the first point the khor is touched since Temeren. The khor here is about 50 paces wide, with a firm sandy bottom, fringed by scrub, though not of a dense character.

There is also a track along the west bank of the Khor Baraka from Temeren to Langeb (Junker’s road), but it is bad, leading through thick bush and wood, and much broken by numerous small khors.

Debetawateb 3 25 Wells. About 35 water holes 5 feet deep, situated close to west bank of khor. Wells mostly together, water brackish (April). The wells are placed in what practically is a gorge. The left bank rises in a rocky hill from 150 to 200 feet high, and gradually falls away into a wide open stony plain, which, with occasional rocky isolated hills, extends to the high mountain of Jebel Shaba. On the right bank the hills are higher, formed into numerous peaks, the hills gradually losing themselves in the Jebel Haina. The rush of water down this gorge is very considerable when the Baraka is in flood; it is said to be of such force as to sweep a camel with ease before it. The hills of this gorge would form a fair position; though, perhaps, capable of being turned by the west. Such dense scrub approaches to within a few yards of the south side of the hill on the left bank that it would enable an enemy on the hill to defend himself from this bush with reasonable prospects of success, and make it a difficult operation to touch the top of the ridge of the hills without carrying the bush. This gorge would seem to be the best place to put a barrage, should such a work ever be contemplated. After leaving the wells the route follows the khor, which now opens out very considerably. The west bank is covered with dense bush, mostly tamarisk trees; the east bank has a considerable amount of bush, but the belt is not so broad or so high as that on the opposite bank.

2 27 After about ¾ hour is reached a large patch of dura crop planted in the bed of the khor, dense bush continuing on the left bank; after ½ hour, reach a few water holes on the right side of the khor, evidently used for the cultivation of the above-mentioned dura. After passing the cultivation the khor maintains the same general appearance.

From here a short cut may be made to Tamatu by leaving the khor, and marching over a scrubby plain, going rough, and cut up by small khors and hills.

The path now leads by the right bank of the khor, and clear of it; the ground here is much cut up by ravines and watercourses, covered with dense bush, in fact might be described as a regular jungle. After passing this rough ground the khor is again struck at

Odwan (meaning great waterpot). 4 31 The khor here is in a channel 16 to 18 feet deep; the channel bifurcates, the old bed passing in a westerly direction, the new cutting for itself a passage in a more northerly direction. Pools here before the Baraka floods, running water in winter. No definite wells. On 16th July, 1894, the khor here was a rapid stream, 40 to 50 yards broad, and 4 feet deep.

Khor takes sharp bend to the west. Bush on either bank very dense; tamarisks and bushes bound together with bright green creepers.

Tamatu (or Tefadi?) 6 37 Fifty wells near west (?) bank of khor, 5 feet deep; water brackish.

Route now goes along bed of khor, good going, muddy soil with patches of sand. Banks 4 feet high and densely wooded. Four miles (?) on, the khor is left, and an open plain to the west crossed, covered with scattered scrub, ground generally stony. Spurs of Shaba range extend to within half mile of khor.

Laiameib 8 45 Lies a mile to the west of the Khor Baraka, and is reached by proceeding up a stony tributary khor with occasional trees, a few dom palms marking the entrance to the khor. This point is called Khashm Lwi (?); sides of khor 50 to 100 feet high. The wells lie at the foot of a mass of irregular rocks, which stop further advance.

The reservoir of rain water is situated under the rocks, and is reached by a narrow downward passage which finally opens into a subterranean cave. The entrance to the cave is sufficiently high and wide to admit the passage of two horses at the same time. The water, perhaps 6 feet deep, is of excellent quality and most delicious to drink, covering about 15 feet square, and taking up the greater part of the cave.

Khor Farag Saleib 3 48 Three miles south of the Khor Laiameib, the Khor Farag Saleib is crossed. Here the Baraka forms a lake in flood time.

Langeb 3 51 The entrance to the khor of that name, which trends south-west from here.

Tebhateit 12 63 Good wells; ground hilly. Jebel Haggr, 6,000 feet.

(From this point Captain McKerrell is the authority.)

After Tebhateit (74 miles) the track now runs on to east bank, and winds gradually south over broken rocky ground; 5 miles on re-enters khor, and runs through dense mass of tamarisk and scrub into channel 100 yards wide here, and khor ½ to ¾ mile wide.

Ambakta 8 82 Shortly afterwards reach Khor Ambakta, with one well. This is where Sudan-Eritrea boundary meets the Baraka on the east bank. Jebel Senad, to the west, is a good landmark here, and Jebel Ayob, on east. Channel now twists about a good deal, then runs south-west; both banks lined with hills.

Hakhal 8 90 Eight miles on is Hakal; one well, 6 feet down, good water.

Adardeb 9 99 Track continues south-west and enters Eritrean territory, and 9 miles on reaches Adardeb, with three wells, 4 feet down; good water. Three miles on channel splits up and runs east and west; track leads over ground between. Very bad going over ground broken up by watercourses and sand dunes for next 6 miles; channel is then re-entered and Khor Salha is reached.

Khor Salha 10 109 Five wells, 4 feet down, good water. This is a large khor running in from the east, and is itself joined by Khor Anseba, about 10 miles east, which latter khor comes from south-east. From here Jebel Adarkalab, a very high hill, is seen due south, and Jebel Skena due west, a cone-shaped hill. Track leaves channel here and runs along east bank, passing, 3 miles on, two stone pepper pots, built by Dervishes. Bad going over very broken ground, intersected by watercourses, for next 8 miles; then re-enters channel and reaches four wells, water 4 feet down, and some small rain pools, from one of which two fish were caught. One hundred yards on is Jebel Sotai on west, and Jebel Adarkalab on east, bank; latter swarming with grey monkeys. These hills are about 60 yards apart, and the rush of water between them at flood must be very great.

Khor Anseba — —

Jebel Sotai 9 118

Akiduli (Koliteb?) 4 122 Four miles on is a black rock, called “Akiduli,” on east bank, with figures of camels, men, and ostriches scratched over it. Water here also in pools and old wells, in places only 2 feet down. Further on is Khor Attai, with wells; water good, and 4 feet down.

Khor Attai 2 124

Kolik 18 142 Track now runs south, and hills recede on either side; khor widening to about a mile east and west; channel 100 yards, and shallow, lined with thick tamarisk and bush. Thirteen miles on passed several wells, old and new, and later khor contracts and hills run down on either flank; reach Kolik.

Khor Tamaguanti 6 148 Jebel Koreb is seen here, a landmark to the west. There is water. Then track leaves khor and crosses west on to a wide, fairly open, sandy plain. Long range of black hills on east, running with khor, country west much more open and hills far away. Six miles on, cross Khor Tamaguanti, running south-west, which is lined with dom palms, has an old well with good water, and a few inhabitants. Track continues over plain passing “Mala” of Sheikh Abu Tahir, who was head of the Hadendoa tribe in Mohammed Ali’s time. Here there are between 200 and 300 graves; plain is covered with coarse grass and acacia.

Khor Lokweb 11 159 Track now leaves Khor Baraka and enters Khor Lokweb, a large khor running into the Baraka from the south-west; channel, lined with any number of dom palms, 100 yards wide; banks 15 to 20 feet high. Two good wells here, water 5 feet down; track continues in khor, direction south-west, for 2 miles and comes to two new wells, water 6 feet down. Then leaves khor to avoid heavy sand, and runs parallel to it on west bank, but here also going is bad, over very broken ground covered with bush. Eight miles on track runs over rocky ground, two hills appear on both flanks. Sixteen miles on passes old stone house on hill to left and shortly after re-enters Khor Lokweb at spot called Khashm El Kawab, where there were two wells, water 3 feet down, slightly salt. Track now runs south-west and then for 8 miles west. Channel blocked by large stone boulders after first mile, bad going through deep sand, dom palms on both banks, also saw two withered Tebeldis with edible fruit like an elongated pear. Six miles on reached three wells called Khashm Hodelt. Eight miles on, left khor and marched west over plain, covered with acacia, &c. Then re-entered khor and reached three at Khashm Ribdab, good water.

Khashm El Kawab 19 178

Khashm Hodelt 6 184

Khashm Ribdab 6 190

Notes in this chapter

Note 1 · Camel transport.Note 2 · For further details regarding the water supply along this route vide “Report on the Nile and country between Dongola, &c.,” 1898.Note 3 · Meaning “red stone” in Hadendoa.Note 4 · “Black stone” in Hadendoa.Note 5 · Fuel should be carried between Ariab and Maho Bey.Note 6 · From Suakin.Note 7 · Now many.Note 8 · If it is not desired to march through Italian territory from this point, the route mentioned in the previous report may be taken by marching