Volume 2 — CHAPTER IV.

(EASTERN SUDAN.)

14.—KHARTOUM NORTH to KASSALA, viâ GEILI, RERA EL SADDA, and EL SOFEIYA, DIMIAT, ASUBRI.

By Colonel Hon. M. G. Talbot (January, 1900) with additions by Captains Boulnois (March, 1900) and Morant (January, 1901).

General Description.

Road.At this season (January) the going is good throughout, except for the few miles between Um Ukheita and Um Rueishid and the first 5 miles out of Rera eastwards, which portions of the track are very stony. From El Sadda to Asubri there is at present (1900) no track, so the going is not so good as in other parts, but there is no obstacle to camels. The gradients throughout are insignificant. A great portion of the route is over dark arable soil, which must be impassable when wet, so that in autumn this route must be difficult for camels for at any rate a day after heavy rain.

There is plenty of shade up to El Ereigib; after that it is rarely found and is non-existent for considerable stretches.

Rivers.The Atbara bed lies from 100-200 feet below the level of the surrounding plains. On either side it is bordered by 2 to 4 miles of broken ground covered with scattered bush, through which the track proceeds by easy gradients. As a rule it is unfordable at Asubri from end of June to middle of October. During these months travellers cross by the boat ferry at Suweihil some 5 miles further south.

The Gash is liable to be unfordable for several days together during the flood season which lasts during July, August and September.

Supplies.A good deal of dura is grown near the track and some might be obtainable at the right time of year. Sheep and milk can be got at many places. Firewood is to be found everywhere up to El Giseima (66 miles), after that it is very scarce till the Atbara is reached.

Water.As tanks are very numerous, water must be very plentiful in autumn and early winter.

The wells about El Ereigib are very deep; that at Wad Abu Saleh was found to be roughly 250 feet.

There are still many wells that require digging out and tanks that want repair. Water was of good quality throughout, and all the wells visited had an ample supply.

Inhabitants.The village of Um Dibban and all the country as far as Wad Abu Saleh used to be under El Taib Abd El Salem, the Sheikh of El Soba. Owing to their having joined the Mahdi, the Sheikh of El Obeid family have risen in importance and acquired a certain jurisdiction over the country east of Um Dibban.

A few Batahin were met with as far as El Giseima, after that practically all were Shukria or those living with that tribe, as far as the left bank of the Atbara.

Grazing.There is excellent tree grazing as far as El Giseima, and after that the supply of grass is so great that one can understand how the enormous flocks and herds subsisted, that the Shukria claim to have possessed in their palmy days.

The grass seen was never more than 3 feet high. It is not burnt.

Cultivation.An immense area is capable of growing good crops of dura if the rains are favourable.

Game.There is practically nothing to shoot at this season (January) between the Blue Nile and a few miles of the Atbara.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Khartoum North — — Starting E. from the Artillery Lines at Khartoum N., a well marked track is soon struck, which continues up the Blue Nile cutting off corners where it bends. It passes the village of Kuku (whence a track leads to Sheikh El Amin and afterwards rejoins this route), the two villages of Gereif, where there is some cultivation, and at about 12 miles the village of Um Dom. At about 19 miles, after passing some low mounds covered with frequent fragments of stone and brick, said to be the remains of Old Soba, the road bifurcates and the branch to the left is taken, a clearly marked track. For the first few miles the path passes through thinly scattered trees, which gradually get thicker, till at 23 miles they restrict the view in any direction to 200 or 300 yards. At 25½ miles a well is passed on the right of the road, and at 27 miles Um Dibban is reached. This is a scattered but well-built mud village on perfectly flat ground, from which all vegetation has been removed for a radius of 1,000 to 1,500 yards.

Old Soba 19 19

Um Dibban 8 27

It was formed by a holy man named Sheikh El Obeid, who established a school and caused a tank to be dug. His descendants still live there and keep up the school, but they now have hankerings after temporal power.

The Sheikh El Obeid family and followers were early and fanatical adherents of the Mahdi, and it was in attempting to surprise them that Mohammed Ali Pasha and his forces were cut to pieces in 1884.

There are two wells about 112 feet deep, one inside, and the other 200 yards W. of the S.W. corner of village.

The inhabitants belong to various tribes; many have land on the Blue Nile, and some cultivate land to the E.

Wad Badrub (Wad Agid) 4¼ 31¼ The road starts slightly N. of E., and generally traverses a thin forest of thorny trees, not thick enough really to impede troops, but necessitating a little dodging here and there. At 4¼ miles it passes Wad Badrub, a well, said to be 140 feet deep, belonging to Um Dibban. About 200 yards further on, and again after 4 more miles, dry tanks were passed.

The track maintains a general direction of a little N. of E., but constantly makes considerable changes for short distances.

Wad Hedeibab 7¾ 39 Well.

Um Sideira 7 46 Well.

4 50 A dry tank in the Elwan district is passed. There is said to be a well of the same name 2 miles to the S.E. This district originally belonged to the Shukria, but is now occupied by the Batahin.

The country soon becomes more open and a considerable extent, perhaps 600 or more feddans of dura, cultivated by the Batahin was passed.

El Ereigib 5 55 There are some wells (which were out of repair; January 1901) and several dry tanks, and one with water about 1 mile N.E. Plenty of fair sized trees.

A small number of Mesellemia Arabs, Sheikh Mahi, were there. They were originally under the Shukria, but during the Mahdia came under Sheikh El Obeid.

Another rather shorter route is from Khartoum N. to El Ereigib, viâ Babekr (11½ miles), good well, thence passing two lots of salt works to the village of El Melaha (13 miles), large tank, plenty of water (January, 1901), thence to a second village of El Melaha (2½ miles), salt well, thence to a deep but good well at Elwan (22½ miles), and total distance to El Ereigib (4 miles) is 53½ miles.

Wadi Sereria 6½ 6½ The country soon becomes more open, several tanks are passed. At 3 miles Wad Abu Saleh, good well 250 feet deep, marked by some small but well built mud houses in good preservation, said to belong to the Sheikh of El Soba. About ¾ mile to the left is a tank, said to hold the largest supply of water in the neighbourhood. The country now becomes more and more bare of trees, and more ground fit for cultivation is seen. At 6½ miles some Batahin crops are passed, and the Wadi Sereria flowing S. is crossed. A well belonging to the Mesellemia is said to be close at hand on left. At 8 miles a track from Shendi viâ Wad Hassuna to Rufaa is crossed. No water along it except tanks.

El Giseima[10] 4½ 66 A tank about 100 feet in diameter on rather high ground surrounded by a few trees, 2 feet of water in it, Hamla 4½ hours. From this on, no trees are seen till Rera is reached, except where belts of “kittr” bushes mark the lines of Wadis or a small clump of thorn trees shows the position of a tank; firewood should be provided for.

Wadi Abu Sueid 4 70 The absence of trees enables one to see far over the wide plains, mostly of arable soil and covered at this season with dry “Mahareib” and “Hamra” grass. At 4 miles, an unusually pronounced drainage line said to come from Abu Deleig is crossed. The upper part is called Wadi Abu Sueid and the lower Wadi Hasit, said to be much cultivation along it, but none was seen. Thence across a gravelly plateau from which 4 miles further on Geili hill can be seen. At 76th mile road descends short slope to Astaneit tank, dry, no wood, water, nor good grazing.

Astaneit 6 76

Khor Dengalia 4 80 From here on to Geili, the road generally makes for the hill. The main track probably avoids Astaneit tank, leaving it to the right. At 80th mile the Khor Dengalia; at 84th mile the Wadi Nail, and half mile further on the Wadi Ankia are crossed, all flowing south. 5½ miles further on the N. end of the Geili hill was reached. The best place to halt is ½ mile further on at the S.E. end, where a huge fallen boulder affords good shade for two or three persons. It has an ancient carving in Egyptian style on the side nearest the hill.

Wadi Nail 4 84

Wadi Ankia ½ 84½

Geili 6 90½

J. Geili is a granite outcrop about 250 feet high, rising out of a gentle elevation in the plain. On E. and S. are some low knolls enclosing a small open space, in which the wells now most used are situated. There are said to be about thirty wells round the hill, varying in depth from 50 to 100 feet, yielding an unfailing supply of water; some grass near but no firewood. The only path up the hill is from the N., and even there nailed boots must be taken off.

From the summit a good view is obtained. Near the top on some level ground is a place shown as the tomb of the “Bint El Mek,” the daughter of one of the Fung Kings, who married Sheikh El Din one of the early Shukria Sheikhs.

From Geili there are two roads to Um Rueishid, one of which viâ J. El Daein makes a considerable detour. It starts on a bearing of about 66° from true N. straight for J. El Daein, passing over good soil nearly all the way, several hundred feddans of which appear to have been cultivated (1901). The ground is much cracked and off the path, the going is bad.

J. El Daein 22 112½ Two small hills of which the southern is the higher. There is a tank, now dry, at its foot on W. side, Hamla took 8 hours, going well.

Um Ukheita 14½ 127 The track now turns slightly S. of E. and continues over good soil rather bare of grass to Um Ukheita, a tank now dry, on a slight stony rise. Hamla about 5 hours. From here on to Um Rueishid the ground is covered with angular stones, and the going very bad. Camels have to walk. At 2½ miles J. Rera is seen to the S.E., and the track makes fairly straight for it, leaving on the right the group of small hills known as El Nawasla. At 6¼ miles the track descends a gentle slope, and bends up to the N. to the well of Um Rueishid.

The more direct road, which would appear to be the best in every way, runs nearly due E. over a “Nal” grass covered plain devoid of bush, therefore also of shade and firewood, to Sofeiya El Wata (23 miles) a large tank (dry January, 1901), where there is excellent shade for a small party. From here to Um Rueishid (20 miles), track traverses similar country, though it is occasionally stony. J. Um Betikh is passed to the S. of the track.

Um Rueishid 8¼ 135¼ This well is said to be 30 or 35 feet deep. It is situated on bare stony ground. A dry tank lies ½ mile to the S. There are a few small thorn bushes S. of well, but there is very little shade and little grazing, and it is altogether rather an unpleasant halting place.

From Um Rueishid there is a track viâ El Sofeiya and Dimiat to Asubri. It seems the most direct line possible, vide description below.

The route followed after about 1 mile of stony plain strikes a well marked track on good cultivable soil, and makes straight for J. Rera.

At 1½ miles it crosses the Wadi Jerraba flowing S., and 6 miles W. Rahad, and at 11 miles the W. Kanan flowing N. All are flat depressions with cracked soil and marked by lines of “kittr” bushes. Parts of their courses are cultivated. At 18 miles, track enters ground strewn with quartz pebbles, and covered with grass which continues as far as Rera.

Rera 22¼ 157½ Hamla 9½ hours. The Rera hills consist of three rocky ridges almost in line, running E. and W. and some low subsidiary elevation; S. of the centre ridge is a well and a dry water hole. Immediately to the S. of the W. end of the eastern and highest ridge are more wells now in use. On the N. side of the short and low pass that leads to these wells from the N. is a deep dry tank. Before the Mahdia immense flocks and herds used to water here. In the eastern and highest ridge are several rock tanks containing water.

From Rera a road goes viâ Dimiat to Asubri. It is more direct and better marked than the one followed, but was not taken as the rock tanks at Dimiat were said to be dry (January, 1900). The eastern ridge is not difficult to ascend and commands a good view. The natives say J. Kassala can be seen from it on a fine day during the rains. Variation of prismatic compass about 3½° W.

There is no marked track for the first 5 miles towards El Sadda, and the going is bad over pebbles and through long grass.

After that a well marked track is reached, which continues the rest of the way.

Wadi Atiam 7 154½ At 7 miles, the Wadi Atiam is passed flowing N. It goes to El Sofeiya, and as far again beyond it dies away. Much cultivation along it. From 7 to 9½ miles the road is rather bad and stony till it has passed the Atash hills by a short and easy gap, and enters an open plain which extends to El Sadda.

Several tanks are passed on the right, known as El Farsh. Hamla 9½ hours.

El Sadda 25½ 180 There are several wells here about ½ mile W. of S. end of J. El Sadda, a low ridge running N. and S. The one well visited was said to be 70 to 80 feet deep. Plenty of grass, but no trees nor firewood. On the N. and W. of the hill and close to its foot are a number of circular stone mounds neatly built, which appear to be tumuli, and probably date from a time anterior to the present inhabitants. The two biggest are immediately under the highest point. From here to the Atbara there is no track and no water. Bushes mark the drainage lines, otherwise the plains are bare of all but grass. Much of the ground is cracked and consequently bad going. The route followed eventually struck the well marked track made by the Dervishes from Dimiat, and kept along it to Asubri. At 2½ miles from Asubri the main road along the left bank of the Atbara is crossed. Soon after, the track descends into the broken ground which fringes both banks of the Atbara to a width of 2 or more miles. The actual banks at Asubri are 15 to 20 feet high and 300 yards apart. Crocodiles are plentiful. The ford in January, 1901 was 120 yards long and 2½ feet deep.

Asubri (R. Atbara) 57 237 Hamla took 19 hours from El Sadda. A nice shady camp on right bank for a very small party. Mosquitos few, but particularly poisonous.

Asubri is the name of a strip of land extending for some miles along both banks of the Atbara. On the left bank, near the ford, is an old cemetery, and ½ mile S. is a building formerly occupied by Abdel Rahim Wad Abu Dugal, the Dervish Emir in command of their post here in 1897 and early in 1898.

On leaving camp, the track winds in and out of khors and up gentle slopes through bushes, till at 2 or 3 miles it emerges on to the plain, which is of good soil covered with scattered bush. The general direction is straight for J. Kassala.

At about 6 miles the track from Suweihil joins in on the right, and from this on, the road is well marked. Many ariel and gazelle, and a few ostriches seen.

Um Siteiba 21 258 At 21 miles, Um Siteiba, commonly called half way is passed. Here is a large natural pond for about 4 months in the rains, but now dry. Serut fly bad when there is water here.

About 6 miles from Kassala, the track turns N.E. and traverses more thickly wooded country, till it reaches the bed of the Gash, now dry, some 700 yards wide, immediately beyond which lies the old town of Kassala.

Kassala 17 275 The old name, Taka, may now be regarded as obsolete. The former town is a complete ruin, of which nothing remains except the circular bastions. The new town has been built close by the S.E. and consists largely of Tukls. The Fort, built by the Italians, is just E. of the N. end of the old town.

Telegraph lines from Suakin, Massawa, and Khartoum viâ Gedaref meet here.

UM RUEISHID viâ SOFEIYA to ASUBRI.

Khartoum, N. — —

Um Rueishid — 135¼ From Um Rueishid where the ground is very stony, the track which is well defined, starts at a bearing of 112° from true N., and very soon K. Abu Jerraba is crossed flowing N., it is said to eventually unite with the Wadi Khasa.

Wadi Khasa 7½ 142¾ There are signs of a good deal of cultivation along this wadi.

J. Um El Gurud 1½ 144¼ J. Um El Gurud, a low rocky hill about ¼ mile long is passed about 1¾ miles to S. and 3 miles further on Sheikh

Sh. Naim’s Tomb 1½ 145¾ Naim’s tomb, conspicuous on top of a gentle slope, is passed on N. side of the road. Open bushless grass country continued until nearing El Sofeiya, where scattered bush and granite rocks appear. There are some forty wells here, though water supply decreases considerably in the dry season, they vary from 50 to 100 feet in depth.

El Sofeiya 9½ 155¼

15½ 170¾ The people here, who are Shukria under Sh. Ahmed Mohamed Abu Sin, live in tents made of matting; there are no permanent buildings of any sort, and the encampments are small and scattered. The direct road to Kassala, which is difficult to trace for the first mile or so after leaving the wells, soon becomes well defined, having been much used during the Mahdia, and leads over open flat grassy land from J. Gurun, which it leaves about 2½ miles to the S. Khors Royan (7 miles) and Atshan (11½ miles) being crossed en route, flowing N.

Wadi Giref 6½ 177¼ J. Giref is passed about 3 miles N. of track and Wadi Giref is crossed about a mile further on.

From here to J. Dimiat is about 15 miles, Wadi Girgoja being crossed at about half way.

J. Dimiat 15 192¼ A granite hill about 100 feet high. There is a natural tank about half way up, inaccessible for camels, which after a good rainy season contains water till the end of January, but is not to be relied on. There is a certain amount of laot bush around the base of the Jebel, which serves as firewood, and some detached boulders give shade for a small party.

Ogba El Bagar 18 210¼ From here to the Atbara valley about 33 miles there is no bush, with the exception of two thin belts called Ogba El Bagar about 5 miles apart.

7½ 217¾ The road bifurcates, one to Gandaua, Sh. Omara Abu Sin’s village on the Atbara, the other is the Dervish track to Asubri. The route taken (January, 1901) was neither, but direction lay for 3 miles S.E., and then due E. through scattered bush to edge of plateau.

Edge of Plateau 8½ 226¼ From this point Jebels Kassala, Abu Gamel, &c., are plainly visible. Also are several small hills some 10 miles to the S. and S.W. named Bereirob and El Gatar, whilst J. Leinun is visible a similar distance to the N.

Asubri 2¼ 228½ The road now descends a khor by easy gradients to the bed of the Atbara at the well known Meshra of Asubri.

15.—GOZ REGEB to SHENDI viâ ABU DELEIG.

By Captain W. A. Boulnois, April, 1900.

General Remarks. Road.From Goz Regeb, a ruined town of mud houses almost entirely deserted to Sheg el Walia, there is no track, and the country is bare till within 30 miles of Sheg. Hence to Geleita there is a badly defined track and none from Geleita to Abu Deleig. From the latter to Shendi the track is well defined most of the way, and there seems to be a considerable amount of traffic; parties bringing dura from Rufaa to Shendi, and one party from Metemma with goods to sell in Abu Deleig market were met.

The track disappears 10 miles short of Shendi.

The going is good at this time of year all the way; wherever tracts of strong rich soil and wadis are crossed, and there are many, it would be impracticable in the wet season at times.

From Abu Deleig to Shendi the going is good enough, probably all the year round, but many deepish khors would form serious obstacles in the rains.

The Atbara was 2½ feet deep, and 60 yards wide.

Supplies.A fair amount of dura is grown near Sheg and Geleita. It was easily obtainable there in small quantities.

A great deal is grown in Hawad, a very fertile district, and also a certain amount in Abu Deleig in good years, but it all depends on the rainfall. Very little from Abu Deleig to Shendi.

Wood.Firewood is not to be obtained between Goz Regeb and within 10 miles of Abu Deleig; plenty elsewhere.

Water.None from Goz Regeb to Sheg, about 65 miles.

Tanks very numerous near and in Hawad.

Water only obtainable at Ladda, between Abu Deleig and Shendi; but there are numerous tanks, though all dry at this time.

Water is of good quality, especially at Abu Deleig.

Inhabitants.From Goz Regeb to Hawad, Shukria; round Abu Deleig, Batahin; at Ladda, Ababda and Hassania.

Grazing.Very good grazing from Sheg to Shendi.

Cultivation.Large tracts and areas capable of growing good crops of dura if rains favourable.

Game.Nothing to shoot between Atbara and the Nile at this time of the year.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Atbara — — Descending the bank by the hut on the E. bank the Atbara is crossed and the W. bank ascended ¼ mile S.

Elsewhere the banks are steep, but the bush is not very dense. Track leads to Goz Regeb. The ruined brick buildings of the old Egyptian town are still standing, and amongst them the decayed tukls of Osman Digna. A very few inhabitants, descendants of the ancient town of Goz are living there still. The site is on high ground, and light sandy soil, a few dom palms, and the remains of an old garden and cemetery are still visible.

Goz Regeb 1 1 Counting from huts on the E. bank, the distance to the town is 1 mile. The direction taken, about 260° from the true north, leaves the town of Goz Regeb on the N., and passes from sandy undulating ground to level rich soil with very little grass and trees, getting scarcer through El Uera district, leaving the two hills of El Darei on the north side; at about 9 miles the direction taken leads straight to Bewadda. Under the hills of El Darei are bushes and grass.

Bewadda 15½ 16½

Bearing from Bewadda to Sabaat 162°, Erembat 81°, Takallaareid 343°. Bewadda is a granite rock in the middle of a bare tract.

At 20 miles a ridge about ¼ mile long, quite low, stands 1 mile to the N.; hence the ground is perfectly bare till about 50 miles. Wadis coming from south begin to empty on the plain, then the going becomes bad in places, especially in the cracked soil near the Wadis. Grass gets more plentiful.

At 51 miles Wadi Royan is crossed, and shortly after Wadi El Doleb and Wadi Sangareh; dura is grown about these wadis.

J. Ikhbeit 36 52½ Bearing to J. Ikhbeit 209°.

The broad Wadi El Abil is crossed at 59 miles; there are bushes and firewood in it. Four miles further on the ground becomes stony after crossing Wadi Wad Masuga, and rises gentle slope of stony ridge.

Shag El Walia 13½ 66 Shag El Walia is reached after crossing a second ridge. It is generally called simply Shag, no connection with Sheikh. Four wells in use out of 14; 120 feet deep, water constant; 200 camels could be watered daily. A badly defined track leads over a valley with rich soil across Wadi Baseyayi, then gently up another stony ridge and plateau down to Geleita where are 7 wells in use altogether, about 120 feet deep, water constant. There are several wells unopened. A good many flocks and inhabitants.

Geleita 14½ 80½

Isna Bir 17½ 98 Leaving the main group of wells, a track is followed down bed of khor to the foot of the ridge in N.W. direction, fairly free from stones, past two wells at ¾ mile, and one well at 1¼ miles. The track disappears and rich soil and pasture land is crossed to Isna Bir, where there are 2 wells giving a scanty supply of water, and a few people (Batahin); a few patches of corn were noticed on the way.

Abu Deleig 25 123 Hence the direction taken is nearly W., crossing a very fertile tract of country; many water tanks, now dry, then over the rich land of Hawad, and rising a gentle slope touches the Khor Girgegi, which waters the Hawad, about 1 mile short of Abu Deleig.

Good shade all round. Large number of wells.

2 125 The best place for a small party is 2 miles higher up the Girgegi. A well defined track, starting N.W. across Wadi Shilha and leads over good pasture land with many mimosa trees and sandy soil to Ladda. A large tank hewn out of the rock in the middle of a grass plain. Plenty of water, 1/4/00, diameter about 100 feet, depth in middle 5 feet, said to last all the year. Many flocks; Ababda and Hassania tribes. Tomb of Atali close to the tank. The track leads past several stony ridges and sandy soil, across 3 or 4 khors, notably Fehed, and is lost about 7 miles from Shendi, which is reached descending a long very gradual slope from the high plateau at the foot of J. Girenat and Neheidat. Distance taken to Gubba Shendi.

Ladda 20 145

Shendi 41 186

16.—EL DAMER to FASHER (ATBARA).

By Major Bulkeley Johnson, Scots Greys, October, 1901.

General Remarks. Road.From El Damer to Goz Regeb the road is stony and sandy, with open desert or open bush. Going: good for horses in open formation but slightly heavy; for artillery, heavy, with a strain on the horses the whole journey. I should suggest some form of detachable broad sand tyre to prevent sinking of the wheels, as suggested in Journal of Artillery Institute, of, I think, September, 1901.

From Goz Regeb to Sofi the road is a single track through long grass on a high plateau, 2 or 3 miles from river, which is difficult of access owing to broken ground gradually sloping to river, which is cut up by innumerable khors, water courses, and bush.

The going over the single track is good for horses, but bad for guns, as both horses and wheels must go through the long grass, and horses’ feet are continually slipping inwards as the track is narrow and generally deep. At times, as between Sofi and Mogatta, the path is completely lost and overgrown with kittr—bad enough for single horses, but still worse for pairs or led horses; the gun horses on two occasions coming in red with blood from shoulders down. I would suggest outside blinkers for gun horses in bush to protect the eyes from thorns.

Water.During first portion of road, El Damer to Goz Regeb, the river is difficult of access owing to thick bush and high banks, except in recognized meshras, often far apart. Water very good; camps good and shady.

On second portion, Goz Regeb to Fasher, river often 3 miles away, and very difficult of access. Meshras very few owing to broken ground, thick bush, and deep khors running in every direction; camps fair and shady.

Grasses.On Atbara up to Goz Regeb, halfa grass is plentiful along the banks. After El Fasher plenty of green abu rokba, abu arid, and neghil, by far the best being abu arid, which, green or dry, is always taken by the natives in preference to any other for horses and cattle. Naal is apparently no use as food, but adaa or false dura is better than nothing.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

El Damer — —

El Basli 14 14 Road across stony desert. Small village, 150-200 inhabitants, about 4 miles S. of Abadar Meshra. Dom fringe, ½ mile broad; outside this, stony desert. Two roads—one through doms, the other outside—single track over stones.

From El Busli.

Outside road taken.

¾ 14¾ Meshra Umdebia.

Amerab 3¾ 18½ Amerab village, ½ mile from river; 50 grass tukls, two mud houses. Big house standing alone. Sheikh Omar.

2 20½

Minawi 1¼ 21¾ Meshra very good.

Goz El Halag 4 25¾ Opposite to Goz El Halag (meshra) a few tukls. Road still 2 miles from river. Country changes. Soil becomes loamy, with some sand and scattered bush. River bank lined with doms.

Girsi 5¼ 31 Village. Cultivation by sagias; big meshra 2 miles north. Road shortly goes through dura (rain crops), therefore patrol skirted outside this. Country as before; open bush, mostly tundub; no road.

Debbet Bush 3 34 Opposite to big village Debbet. Bush W. of outer road; about 2 miles from river. Water from 2 wells.

Burush 4 38 Opposite to; a few tukls, meshra.

Abaka 3 41 Ditto.

Helal 7 48 Ditto, meshra. Cultivation, and a few tukls fairly close; bush mixed with doms, about 1 mile broad from river.

Shigil 2 50 Meshra. Cultivation on and near river. Meshra in a small pool, nearly dry (Oct. 16th). Island, ½ mile long; plenty of neghil grass. Village of Shigil, about 20 tukls; ½ mile from river in bush.

1 51

Garada 1 52 Meshra. Road enters dura 1½ miles from river; narrow path through thickets.

Marzuga 2 54 Meshra.

5 59 Bush ends. Road enters open sandy desert which stretches down to river, on banks of which fringe of doms, ½-1 mile wide.

El Rimta 3½ 62½ Arab encampment. (No meshra.) Road close to river. Road runs along river bank through doms and cultivation for ½ mile, then open sandy desert with sunt and tundub right down to bank; sand hills.

El Awadi 3½ 66 Meshra (very good). Good shade for camp. Heavy going for guns. No road.

10 76 Good meshra. No signs of cultivation.

Adarama 4 80 Meshra opposite Adarama.

3 83 Ferry for Adarama. A fringe of bush, about 1 mile broad, along river; outside this, open flat desert with a few tundub bushes. Road at times 2 miles from river, across bends, and approaches it at mile 97.

14 97 Meshra, very good (rocky bed); shady camp. Fringe of bush impenetrable (except at meshras) along bank, about 10 yards broad. This continues for a long distance. Road close to river.

Amiam 10 107 Meshra, by small khor; sandy bank, ¼ mile broad; no inhabitants; going, sandy and bad.

Taroma 6 113 Meshra. Bisharin tukl village; about 30 people; flocks; cultivation of dukhn on sandy banks. Meshra, good; dukhn on sandy banks. No signs of inhabitants.

4 117

11 128 No meshra, but able to get down to river by group of doms; sandy banks, not much grass (halfa). Road goes away from river to cut off bend.

5½ 133½ Road divides: right hand to Goz Regeb direct, left keeping near river. Followed left; going becomes worse, with small khors when near river.

Auli 2½ 136 Arab encampment. Meshra.

6 142 Very good meshra; open space on bank. Fine view of river part of Auli. No grass.

2 144 Meshra. Arab encampment; dukhn, plenty of halfa grass. End of Bisharin tribe.

3 147 Arab encampment. Arteiga branch of Hadendioa. Great quantities of sheep, cattle and camels.

G. Tukwe on west, J. Ofreik on east, just visible from here.

Succession of small meshras and encampments.

4 151 Meshra.

2 153 Meshra.

1 154 Cemetery; stony ground.

3 157 Path debouches into open alluvial plain (short grass and tundub bushes) cutting off bend.

5 162 Approach river, near which country is broken and stony. Meshra bad; no grass except a little abu rokba (slightly bitter taste when green, and of which some horses will not eat at first until accustomed). Flocks and cattle. Road from 148th mile close to river, over very rough, broken, stony ground, and at times thick bush. Several small meshras. Goz Regeb’s two hills visible for first time.

Saraf 6 168 Arab encampment; meshra.

Goz Regeb 12 180 Meshra—1 mile short of it—under palms. Camp (bad), 2 miles further on, at ferry. Camel post opposite; grass, halfa.

This road makes Goz Regeb 100 miles from Adarama.

From Goz Regeb the road proceeds at about 3 miles from river on a flat table land, as the ground between it and the river is rocky and broken by innumerable small water courses and khors called by natives “karrab.” The going is over alluvial soil, rather heavy. A single track with naal grass on either side.

Distances are given exclusive of detours down to meshras.

Gebuib 18 198 Meshra, very good. Good camping ground; halfa grass. No inhabitants.

10 208 To meshra, about 3 miles.

6 214 Ditto.

Umraho 4 218 Ditto. Very good meshra; deep khors on either side. Bend in river to east; ford (27th Oct. 1901). Country near meshra very broken and rough. On turning down this meshra the tops of two small hills are visible on right front. From here road about 3 miles from river; going gets harder when nearing Asubri.

8 226 In line between the two hills and Kassala hill.

10 236 To meshra.

Omara 1 237 Small village, about ½ mile E. of road.

3 240 To meshra, good. E. 3 miles to river. Fair camp; abu rokba, but no halfa grass.

3 243 To Asubri. The road here divides at right angles: left to Asubri, right direct to El Fasher, described as about 30 miles and track far from river. Therefore took river road—very bad.

Asubri 3 246 Asubri. From here road goes about 1 mile from river and becomes very good and hard. Country open with trees and short grass. After 10 miles becomes “Karrab” (ground broken by small water courses) again.

12 258 A meshra. Hundreds of camels, thousands of sheep and goats belonging to Lahawin Arabs. Good meshra. Bad camp; no grass.

13 271 El Fasher District. Country changes to park-like land—short grass dotted with trees.

El Fasher 2 273 El Fasher village and fort. Water from ford.

Ford 4 277 Ford; good meshra and camp. Last ½ mile “karrab”; Abu Rokba grass.

17.—KHARTOUM NORTH to ABU DELEIG.

Compiled in Intelligence Office, Khartoum.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Khartoum, North — — Railway terminus, &c. The road leads nearly due east, viâ tomb and well of Haj Yusef (Batahin), about 80 feet deep, water good but not plentiful, to Bir Babekr, about 110 feet deep, water good and plentiful. Scattered salam and tundab bush. Inhabitants Batahin.

Bir Haj Yusef 4½ 4½

Bir Babekr 4½ 9

After leaving Babekr the road traverses bare level ground covered with scattered samr and selem trees. Hafir Medeisis, where Hassania Arabs live and extract salt during the rainy season, is passed, and later Hafir El Wadi, near which is a low stony hill named El Gaber. Near Kalamon are hafirs named Nuba and Um Denun, where also salt is extracted by the Hassania.

Bir Kalamon 8 17 Well 180 feet deep, water rather salt, but very plentiful. From here the direct road passes Hafir El Kheila, the country is flat and covered with scattered samr trees and homra and meharib grass. The road leads to a stony hill named J. Dura, after which the following tanks are passed: Jan Kilwa, Um Gedodeima, and Gala Um Johanis, over which the road passes; beyond this is Wadi Safra, where Hassania Arabs cultivate.

J. Dura 12 29

Wad Hassuna 30 59 A village of mud houses and well of this name; also the tomb of Sheikh Hassan Wad Hassuna, near which is a large hafir called Ghobasha. Natives here Hassania, under Sheikh Hassan Meki. Country continues flat, and covered here and there with kitr and samr trees, also homra and meharib grass; road is stony and several khors cross it.

Hafir Kabarus 4½ 63½ After Hafir Kabarus, three others by name El Biyut are past.

Hafir Amria 7 70½ A very large tank, J. El Sada, is passed to the south.

Bir Agab 8½ 79 Two wells, about 90 feet deep, water good and plentiful. Mogharba, Hassania, Batahin and Ababda Arabs live about here. Several hafirs here, chief of which are Alatib and Balako. The latter lies 1½ miles south of the road, and is said to have been dug by the “Kufr” or heathen.

Khor Jegjegi — — After leaving Agab the road soon runs alongside Khor Jegjegi, which it continues to follow to Abu Deleig. Kittr, sayal, heglig, and samr trees border the khor, which some 8 to 10 miles further east joins Wadi Hawad. There are about 50 wells in the Abu Deleig district, 70 to 100 feet deep, but in the rainy season water can be obtained from Khor Jegjegi near the surface. At Abu Deleig all the natives live in dom-mat tents, and here is the residence of Sheikh Mohammed Talha, head Sheikh of the Batahin, who are the principal inhabitants. There is a police officer and police post here.

Abu Deleig 10 89

18.—RUFAA to GEILI.

By Colonel Hon. M. G. Talbot, January, 1903.

There are at least three roads.

The western goes by Abu, or El, Gassas, a district apparently included in another called Rotamat (I am not sure of this). Last water at Abu Gassas. It afterwards passes some cultivation, but no water except in autumn.

The eastern goes by Tundub and Wad Arrak, where last water is, and joins the middle road about 10 miles from Geili.

The middle one was followed, and is described below.

No real road to begin with, simply tracks from village to village. For the first 9 miles, as far as the village of Kemeilab, through cultivation all the way. Several villages on either side of road. Then through thin laot bush, but plenty of cultivation round about.

Place. Hours. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total. Inter-mediate. Total.

Rufaa — — — — Track is good all the way; no steep gradients, difficult khors, nor thick bush. Probably bad after rain.

Tunbul El Jaalin 4 4 12 12 Good sized village of Jaalin, with well. There are two other villages close by called Tunbul El Agada and Tunbul El Eishab. Cultivation all the way; many villages seen.

Abu Zeid, Wad Um Balli 3 7 9 21 A poor village. Well 250 yards S.E.; village of Musaiab close by to N. Track continues mostly through thin low laot bush, but some cultivation is passed. Some villages lie on right, but are not conspicuous. Passes village of Um Hageir.

Um Shinshin, or Um Shinashin 2¾ 9¾ 8 29 Thin straggling village; well, on road; last water on road. On through low laot and grass, with very little cultivation, passing the small village of El Gura; no well; last village on road.

Um Ganatir — — 5 34 Tank, a boundary point of Rufaa District, used to be a man’s depth, but now nearly filled up.

Mufad Wad Dereid — — 7 41 Tank.

4½ 14¼ 1 42 Road crosses a belt of laot giving good firewood; no more for two hours, though there are belts of kittr a mile or two on each side. Geili just visible 29½° (true). Jebel Lebaitor just visible in early morning to S. On over grassy plain, apparently rising. Direction of road some degrees E. of Geili.

Wadi Mofad 2¼ 16½ 6½ 48½ Marked by a belt of thin kittr some 250 yards wide. Must be boggy after rain. Two tanks on each side of wadi. The place is called something like Rufa Wa Fagusa, Rufa applying to one pair of tanks and Fagusa to the other, but I am not sure of the names, nor which applies to which.

The Wadi Mofad, I was assured, rises near Abu Deleig, and flows S. The wadis of Bahogi and Ankia passed on the Um Dibban—Geili road form part of it.

E. of the wadi the Tundub road joins in, and the united road makes straight for Jebel Geili.

2¼ 18¾ 6½ 55 Road crosses a branch of Wadi Mofad coming from the E. of Jebel Geili. Some kittr and other trees. Track begins to get stony, particularly as Jebel Geili is neared.

J. Geili 2¼ 21 6½ 61½ Wells at S. end of Jebel Geili close to the carved rock.

19.—GEDAREF to KASSALA.

By Lieut.-Col. Mitford (1899) and Captain H. H. Morant (1900).

The direct and more generally used road to Mogatta starts from Gedaref in a nearly northerly direction, and leaves J. Buadra about 1¼ miles to the right, and the scene of the battle of Gedaref ¼ of a mile on the left hand. After passing through much cultivation and high grass, the filthy village of Wad Gabu on the top of a small hill is reached. The water supply of this village is from a well some 2½ or 3 miles to the W. or S.W., and animals have to be sent there, as very little water is obtainable at the village itself. There is a rest house here.

J. Kassamon is visible nearly due N. About 2¼ miles further on the telegraph line and an alternative route from Gedaref, viâ Seraf El Buadra and Bir Rowajda, which is generally dry, joins in.

From here to R. Atbara, at Mogatta, there is no water, and the country is most uninteresting. In the rains the scrub and scattered bush is almost concealed by high grass; this is burnt in the dry season, and the country then is bare black cotton soil, and devoid of any grazing for animals. About 12 miles from the river dense bush, chiefly kittr, begins, and continues until the halting place at Mogatta is reached. This road is nearly 20 miles shorter than that viâ Sofi.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Gedaref — — The track to Sofi leaves Gedaref in a N.E. direction, passing down a valley between gardens, cultivation and high grass; several hamlets half a mile distant on either side of road. A gentle ascent on N. side of valley to N.E. corner of a low flat hill called J. Buadra.

Khor Seraf El Buadra 3 3 This khor crosses the path near corner of J. Buadra. One well, upper portion stone faced; 24 feet deep, 5 feet diameter, 4 feet of water. Two similar wells near track, one ½ a mile, the other 1 mile further on. From this point track is a single camel path, winding among high grass or through bush; in places very stony. Ground on either flank cracked cotton soil.

2 5 Top of pass is reached; the small hamlets of Um Shedra, Hissainad, and Turfur are seen in succession on the left hand of the track.

2½ 7½ A rise in the ground known as Gumerab is reached. On far side of it track descends sharply for 40 feet, over rocks and stones on to a plain. General direction E. by N. Some dukhn or dura patches; rest of the ground covered with high aada and shush grass. 5 feet high.

4¼ 11¾ A copse of talh trees is passed through. For the next 5 miles are scattered trees along the path, with copses of hashab trees a few hundred yards to a mile on either side; shush, aada, naal and Umdenaib grasses.

4¾ 16½ A shallow excavation to catch rain-water is seen on left, 100 yards off. General direction E.N.E. At the 24th and 27th miles, two more small rain-water reservoirs are passed.

Khor Bitnasr 15½ 32 This khor is here crossed; it trends northwards and runs into the Khor Tomat. Ground now ascends slightly and is more broken, and track crosses several small khors. At the 34th mile the edge of the plateau is reached, and a sharp descent of 90 feet ensues.

Sofi (Rest house) 3 35 A straggling village of a hundred men (Jaalin) on spurs running down to the Atbara 400 yards away. At date the river is easily fordable, the water not being knee deep and 20 yards broad near the village. From this point the track as far as El Fasher follows the course of the river on the left bank, and distant from it 1 to 5 miles. The bush and jungle prevent approach from the track, except at the watering places in use. From Sofi the track winds up to the plateau in a N.W. direction along and in khors. On reaching this plateau, after a mile, the track bears generally due N. Quarter of a mile of dura cultivation is passed through, then the path runs along the flat top of a watershed draining into the Atbara on the right, and into the Khor Tomat on the left.

One and a half miles E. of the Atbara the Setit runs parallel with the river and the khor until its junction with the former. Going is now very bad, kittr, laot, talh and sant close to the path; cracked cotton soil. At the 43rd mile the track descends with twists and turns towards the river, and just before reaching Khor Tomat some salt workings are passed through.

Khor Tomat (Rest house) 9½ 44½ The khor near its junction with the river is 30 yards wide and 4 feet deep. It takes its name from a mound near the khor with two knolls (Tomat = twins). Formerly there were several hamlets in the neighbourhood, but no traces exist.[11] The nearest hillet to the river was Wad Abu Hamed, just N. of the khor. Easy access to water at date. Track winds over undulating ground intersected by khors, below the plateau 1 to 2 miles distant to the westward. Trees not quite so thick or close.

Khor Um Garra 4 48½ The Atbara is again reached here, about 1 mile N. of its junction with the Setit, which brings down at this time of the year more water than the Atbara, and appears to be a broader and finer stream.

Good watering place.

The path leaves the river in a N.W. direction over broken and undulating ground for 1 mile. The plateau is reached and again thick bush and trees are passed through. At 55 miles J. Akelai is visible through a break in the trees, nearly due E.

Khor Fatut 11½ 60 Track winds down to this khor, and then for 1½ miles passes over very broken ground. Track then improves; the country is not so closely wooded, and several open spaces are traversed.

Mogatta (Rest house) 10 70 No village; grazing and watering place of the nomad Arabs. The river is 12 miles from the track. Several large islands in the Atbara here, the water in the dry season passing down by the left bank. Lions are plentiful here.

Here the direct road from Gedaref comes in. From this point the road improves considerably. Troops can move on a broader front, and the soil, though still cotton, is not so cracked; the earth has a slightly red tinge. Occasionally belts of bush are traversed. At the 92nd mile the track descends, and the ground becomes very broken. The remains of an old Dervish post on a spur are seen 400 yards to right.

M. Khashm El Girba 23½ 93½ Track here meets the river; a tributary, or branch of the Atbara, comes in here on the opposite bank, with water still in it. Broken country is again traversed, and many knolls and khors are passed until the plateau is again reached. Trees are larger, and ground covered with gau grass, excellent for grazing cattle and sheep.

Dervish earth work 3 96½ A square Dervish earthwork, each side about 80 yards long, is passed on right. This was the site of El Fasher village when it existed.

El Fasher ford (Rest house) 4 100½ At date, river was 50 yards broad, 18 inches deep at the most at the ford.

Bottom of bed consists of shingle. Quarter of a mile up stream on the right bank is the site of the post held by a detachment from the Kassala garrison in 1898.

On leaving the ford, track leads up the ascent to the plateau for 2 miles, and passes over very broken country intersected by khors. Then the path is excellent; large open spaces are divided by belts of trees. J. Kassala bears E.N.E.

El Mellawiya 22 122½ An open (now) grassy space, where rain-water collects and stands from July to October. Serut flies bad at that season, also snakes. Attempts to make a well here have so far been abortive.

Old well 5 127½ An old government well is passed on right, now filled in. Country now becomes closer, and trees with bright green leaves become more numerous; track narrows considerably[12] as the Khor El Gash is reached, though movement is possible between the trees on either flank. At the 135th mile, the minaret of the Khatmia is visible to the right, and soon the factory chimney of Kassala is visible to the front.

Khor El Gash 12½ 140 The left bank of this khor is reached; 600 to 700 yards broad.

Kassala ½ 140½ Old town and Egyptian fort, now in ruins.

20.—GEDAREF to GALLABAT.

By Col. Collinson and Captain H. H. Morant, 1898.

(Corrected up to 1900.)

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Gedaref — — From Gedaref the road usually taken leads in a S.E. direction, and passes through much cultivation to wells situated in a khor midway between the villages of Dalasa and Gabeisha. From here the road continues to pass through rain cultivation, which extends on both sides of the roads more or less continuously almost as far as the eye can reach until 6 or 7 miles from Shasheina, after which only occasional patches are seen.

Wells 2¼ 2¼

Shasheina (Rest house) 14¾ 17 Several groups of tukls belonging to Debania and Takruris on western slope of a low ridge. Two good wells with any amount of good water, roughly 30 to 40 feet down.

7 24 Leaving here the track skirts the bottom of the ridge and leads in a southerly direction over stony, bad going for about 2 miles, when it bends to S.E. and passes over an open plain to the E.; on the W. forest begins. The wells of Amzuani and Galaat Eila are passed 2½ miles and ¾ mile to the E. of the track.

J. Doka is now visible right ahead.

The path here enters forest which continues to Doka. The soil black cracked cotton soil and the path is occasionally stony. Hashab, soffar and talh are the trees that predominate.

Doka (Rest house) 21 45 A very wretched village that has seen better days. It used to be the residence of a mudir or important official in the old government days. The remains of his palace, &c., are still standing. Two wells, very indifferent supply; generally dry in the middle of the day a few months after the rains.

There is a path from here to Abu Gulud and Sofi, also to Nogara. On leaving Doka several hills are passed, the principal being J. Doka 2 miles to the E., and Ajerawi or Kajerawi to the W. About 4 miles from Doka the route from Asar joins in from the right. This road is very little used, and is hardly noticeable. The track here becomes stony for a mile or so.

Khor Kefaia 8 53 Khor Kefaia, running W.

Khor Kanin 3½ 56½ Khor Kanin, also running W.

Seraf Said (Rest house) 10 66½ Several small villages and two wells in the khor of this name which is the boundary between Gedaref and Gallabat. Wells 30 to 40 feet deep; fair supply. From here a road goes W. to Durraba[13] near the Rahad, and there is a track, made by honey hunters, to the Atbara, which is 13 or 14 miles eastwards.

For the first 2 miles after leaving the wells a good deal of dura and dukhn cultivation is passed through, and then forest with some quite fine trees begins and continues to within a mile of Gallabat.

Khor Kuneina (Rest house) 15 81½ The hills of Ras El Fil, where this khor originates, are passed 2 miles on the right. Up to January water is obtainable slowly from holes about 3 feet deep in its bed. Later these become dry. Fine ardeib tree. Thick forest, chiefly talh and heglig, continues to Khor Otruk, where water stands in a pool all the year round. There are also wells near, from which several small villages obtain their water.

Khor Otruk 7 88½

The road now ascends an easy slope for about 2 miles, and hills are passed to the right and left. From the top of this ascent Gallabat is visible, and ½ mile before reaching it a small khor with running water is crossed.

Gallabat 4½ 93 Old fort of Zeki Tumal’s, 120 feet above the town which lies at foot of slope about 400 yards E. Water from stream, which constitutes boundary with Abyssinia, 800 yards E. of fort.

[There is an alternative route viâ Asar. This is however very little used. It was taken by the two companies of Soudanese troops who first occupied Gallabat in December, 1898. It had been previously used a good deal by Dervish fugitives to and from Gedaref. The water supply along the Doka road is now better and is sufficient, if troops march at night, without carrying any great amount of water:—

Gedaref — — A rather stony track in places leads across open country covered with high grass and dura to Asar. This is a Debania village and residence of their head Sheikh, Wad Zaid, and is situated at the S.W. end of a ridge 300 feet high and 1½ miles long, running nearly N. and S. Here there are two good wells which supplied Ahmed Fedil’s force of 3,000 to 4,000 men besides women, &c., for more than three weeks. A road leads from here to Beila, also to Shasheina.

Asar 10 10

Leaving Asar, several deserted villages were passed, and after traversing undulating open country for 8 miles, talh and soffar forest commences.

Khor Tagala 15 25 Water in holes in rocks by the road side. It has the usual stagnant rain-water taste and smell, but is said to last all the year round. Large baobab close to water. The track continues through forest with occasional open spaces to Khor Ardeiba.

Khor Ardeiba 15 40

A large khor running W. between hills. Water is found in several places in the rock on the side of the hill on left bank of khor. The supply was very scanty at beginning of December, and is not to be relied on.

J. Kajerawi 10 50 For the first 3 or 4 miles after leaving the bed of the khor the track ascends and descends several short steep slopes; trees interfere with the path, which is somewhat stony. It then crosses a fairly open cotton soil plain to a stone-lined well about 60 feet deep, at the foot of J. Kajerawi or Ajerawi. As this well was not in regular use, the water tasted and smelt, but there was plenty of it.

Four miles on the track joins in with the main road previously described, about 5 miles S. of Doka.]

21.—ABU HARAZ to GEDAREF.[14]

By Lieut.-Colonel B. R. Mitford, March, 1899.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Abu Haraz — — Half of a mile N. of junction of R. Rahad and Blue Nile. Track leads through the village in an E. direction, and 4 miles over a plain covered with grass 4 feet high after rains; then some bush is entered which necessitates reducing front of the column to file. The Rahad is from 1 to 1½ miles distant on right flank, its banks covered with a belt of jungle. Track consists of four to six camel tracks over cotton soil.

Meshra El Hedeiba 8 8 Half a mile before reaching this meshra, the road bends to the S.E.; 1¼ miles E. is the village of Hedeiba, and 2 to 3 miles N.E. is the village of Shegeila. A single flat-topped samr tree marks nearest point for water. A large pool of water always here during the dry season in the river bed. Track passes over grassy plain covered with the usual grasses met with along the road, viz.: aada grass, which grows in wet places as high as 18 feet, and naal, from 1½ to 3 feet high.

Id El Maya 2½ 10½ A descent of ½ mile brings one to this khor skirted with trees; the hamlet of that name lies 2 miles from the river; a meshra and pool here in the dry season. The hamlet of Amara lies 2½ miles N.E. Same country is traversed, with occasional belt of trees.

Khor Abu Seghira 5½ 16 Track passes this khor 1½ miles from the meshra, which is very difficult to find, owing to the jungle and the creepers festooned from tree to tree. No pool there this dry season.

Khoran El Homr 2 18 The “Red Khor,” of which there are three. The second one is 1½ miles on, and the third 1 mile further on. Each khor is thickly fringed with trees, bush, and high grass, after rains. The track is now some 3 or 4 miles from the Rahad. At 23½ miles another khor is crossed, and the ground rises into a stony plateau.

H. Sherif Yagub 6½ 24½ Track passes to E. of this village. Inhabitants are Ashraf.

M. El Egeiga ½ 25 Camping ground is on a bluff 40 feet above bed of river; a pool of water always here in the dry season. Natives say that in the winter months it is not a good camping ground, as it is very feverish at night. Country now becomes much more close, trees and bushes narrow the track in many places, and in the autumn the high grass obscures all view to front or flanks.

M. Abuet El Messih 5 30 This meshra is only 100 yards from the track, but the river is somewhat hidden by the jungle. Very unhealthy camping ground during the autumn and winter. Track continues through bush, with occasional open spaces.

M. El Esheir 3 33 Good camping ground near track, 500 yards from the river. Just after leaving this place, the Arang range can be seen in clear weather. Track as before.

Ein El Lueiga 7 40 Watering place here, on the Rahad, in the dry season; not a good camping ground during or after rains, there being much fever. The track now leaves the vicinity of the Rahad, and for the first 5 miles trends towards the N.E. corner of the Arang hills. The Kassala Province is entered here.

At the 48th mile a depression is passed, where a little water is sometimes found during the rains. Plain covered with grass 1 to 10 feet high in October, which from that month becomes broken down by the wind, and in March is only 2 feet high. Track twists and turns considerably until the hills are reached.

Galaat Arang 18 58 The track strikes these hills about 4 or 5 miles from its S. end; bush is again entered, and track becomes very stony and covered with fallen boulders from the hills.

The hills are mostly rock, covered with laot, and stunted baobab or tebeldi trees. Ariel, gazelle, bustard, guinea fowl, sand grouse, apes, and baboons in these hills. A mile on two pools of water are formed in a shallow rocky depression during rains, which is only fit for camels. Track follows the foot of the hills towards the N., through bush and over stony ground.

El Fau (Rest house) 9 67 Track passes through a gorge in the hills, wherein are the wells of El Fau, near the E. mouth of the gorge. One well, stone faced, 10 feet in diameter, 27 feet deep; surface of water 1 foot from top in October, 10 feet in March. The other, stone faced, 5 feet in diameter, 15 to 20 feet deep. Water, both good. There are several other wells in the vicinity during rains, and pools of water in holes and depressions.

Track runs along the E. foot of the hills to the N. point; bushy and stony.

North End Arang 5 72 Near the N.W. point of the Arang hills is H. Badad, or H. Sheikh Shah El Din; one well, now filled up. General direction of track is now N.E. To the S. is seen J. Fines, or Fenis, and to the S.E. is J. Sergein. Bush becomes very close; cotton soil.

J. Bayuda 8 80 Or Buwa’da, or Buwada’. A broad, low, conical hill; some water in rocky holes during the rains. Track now runs E. by S., and for the next 8 miles through thick bush; country then becomes more open and covered with grass again.

Ummat Rumeila (Rest house) 19 99 A group of some five or six hills, averaging 80 to 100 feet high. Some water in pools and holes during rains. The track passes in a N.E. direction through the hills; several patches of bush are traversed. At the 110th mile a narrow belt of laot trees, 10 yards broad, commences to run alongside or in the middle of the track; this belt follows the road for 13 miles.

Taras Wad El Fahl (Rest house) 20 119 A small depression, wherein water lies during rains. Two thorn bushes to S. of track mark it.

Khor Abu Hashim 7 126 A descent leads to this very shallow khor, and a similar rise takes place on its E. side. J. Tiwawa now becomes visible to the E. Track runs over a grassy plain with not even a shrub on it.

Khor Abu Faraga 11 137 Or Abu Fura. This khor rises near Gedaref, and at this point the track meets it; it here turns S. The track runs parallel with it for a mile, 2 to 400 yards distant. At the 139th mile ground falls gently.

Um Gulgia 3 140 A stony mound on left of the track containing several deep holes, said to contain enough water for 1,000 men and 500 camels during the rains.

Ground still falls gently, and a mile on a small khor is crossed; then ground ascends through small scattered soffar trees. At the 143rd mile the houses of Gedaref are visible. Track passes several hamlets on either side, and through much cultivation and high aada grass, along S. side of J. Tiwawa.

Gedaref 6 146 On top of a long gentle slope.

22.—GEDAREF viâ HAWATA to ABU HARAZ.

By Major Bulkeley-Johnson, November, 1901.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Gedaref — — Road leaves Gedaref from behind the old barracks, and takes a S.W. direction for 6 miles. Scattered cultivation of every kind. A flat basin like that N. of Gedaref.

J. Wad Sennat 4½ 4½ Small hill 100 feet high and 500 yards long, running N.W. and S.E., with small hella S. slope.

Abu Nagar 1½ 6 Tukl village. ½ mile right of road; one of Abu Nagar group of five villages.

½ 6½ Ditto on left of road.

½ 7 Well 30 feet deep; water always, but only 6 feet deep; watered 80 horses in 30 minutes.

½ 7½ Hella ½ mile right of road. Road bends to S.W. by W.

1½ 9 Cultivation ends. Road bad from small bushes hidden in naal grass.

J. Matni 17 26 J. Matni ½ mile long, 50 to 100 feet high; stony and covered with habil trees. Woods round J. Matni (soffar and habil) to the E.

From J. Matni to Beila by direct road 2 miles are saved. After J. Matni road branches to right, straight to Beila; left to Ghanem or Ganam (meaning water holes).

Ghanem 3 29 Small khor and 12 water holes about 8 feet deep, and water 1 foot 6 inches (Nov. 15th); probably dry by end of month (1901), rain having been slightly under average.

2 31 Joins main road nearly at right angles.

15½ 46½ Small hill ¼ mile off the road. Road afterwards curls in between it and Beila to two small hellas on far side.

Beila[15] ½ 47 Two small villages and two splendid wells cut in solid rock; any amount of beautiful clear water all the year round[15], 50 feet deep; revetted at top; very good grasses here. From Beila a road now goes to Mafaya on the Rahad, which is much shorter than going to Hawata.

El Fereikh 5 52 Thirty tukls; inhabited all the year road; now water from holes dry in March, 1902.

J. Arid 5 57 Four water holes 6 inches deep, nearly empty on arrival; when opened up to 9 inches gave 3 feet muddy water. Nov. 17th watered 80 horses three times; dry in March, 1902.

J. Gerein — — Water nearly finished; 30 tukls inhabited all year round.[16] Later on get water from Rahad, which is here about 60 yards wide and water 4 feet deep in Nov. Banks steep.

Hawata 18 75 Very good camp. Fairly large village here.

Road follows the river, never more than 2 miles from it, cutting off small bends. Single track; good through long grass; bad for guns as wheels or teams are going through the grass. River approachable everywhere, and watering possible at all times of year.

Camps exceedingly good under shade of sunt trees 30-40 feet high. Grasses in abundance and good, neghil, abu rokba and abu arid.

From Hawata track proceeds along right bank and enters bush.

Wad Keriam 2½ 77½ Part of Hawata belonging to Abu Bakr; small hills; clearing and cultivation.

½ 78 Ten tukls, ditto, ditto.

Bush and grass alternately; thick bush, inland kittr and talh.

8 86 Grass plain. Bend of river meeting it again at

Wad Kerein 5 91 Fifty tukls belonging to Abu Sin, as does all the country up to hella Sherif El Hindi.

Wad Mayim or Wad Balula 2 93 Same as Wad Kerein.

8 101 Road crosses to left bank. Ford on Nov. 13th, about 3 feet deep; Nov. 24th, 6 inches deep. There is no road on E. bank, only thick bush. From here open grass plain, bush inland, ½ mile off river bends from road.

Between road and river a strip of country with big red sunt trees 30-40 feet high and good grasses. The road now strikes khor—thickly wooded leading to lagoon running W. from river, which turns to S.W., road goes round it turning W. and afterwards S.

7 108 Head of lagoon.

Muttu ½ 108½ Road branches to right of hella—Hawata (Arabs) 1½ miles off—300 yards from river in open bush.

1½ 110 Road to Muttu and meshra, 1 mile of thick bush, kitr and talh.

1 111 Khor (dry).

2 113 Big khor, nearly dry—very difficult during rains and up to Nov. 1st, 1901. Soft mud Nov. 27th.

2½ 115½ Small road to right, leading to big khor thickly wooded, water 4 feet deep or lagoon.

1½ 117 Khor (dry).

2½ 119½ Ditto leading to meshra.

Road alternately bush and grass.

6½ 126 Road branches to meshra.

6 132 Approaches meshra, 200 yards.

11 143 Deserted village, 100 yards left of road.

Road very good, broad and hard.

3 146 Cross road from Rahad to Dinder.

10 156 Ditto to Blue Nile.

1 157 Road from meshra to hella, inland 2 miles.

4 161 Opposite to Ein El Lueiga.

3 164 Road branches to right towards river—left to Sherif El Hindi.

Aruth Rutha 2 166 Road to Hella Aruth.

Hafeira 2½ 168 Hella; Arab encampment; flocks and herds.

Wad Rekeih 1½ 170 Hella, 100 yards right of road.

Sherif 2 172 Hella of Sherif Yusef El Hindi.

4½ 176½ Ford and road to Sherif Yakub. Road crosses river.

Abu Haraz 24½ 201 (Afterwards see map).

[Rahad ceased to flow Nov. 30th, 1901; only a slight trickle on 29th.]

23.—SOFI viâ ABU GULUD to SERAF SAID.

By Major G. de H. Smith, February, 1900.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Sofi — — Road goes down into khor and then winding through bushes and water courses follows crest of ridge between Atbara and Khor Gurri, then turns E. towards Kreder.

Kreder 6 6 A village of about 100 huts on spur above river, and not as shown on old maps.

Sherif Ibrahim 9 15 There is no road now; I went across country, crossing ravines bordering Atbara, camels followed edge of plateau about 5 hours’ march from Sofi. No village, only tombs of former inhabitants. Path leads from village to Meshra on Atbara.

Dabuli 12 27 Left Sherif Ibrahim in a S.W. direction, and after 1 hour struck old path from Sofi; followed this, and after 2 hours came on cultivation. A big khor runs in N.E. direction towards Atbara. There are old wells here and site of village. New wells are being opened.

Goreisha 15 42 Road now crosses khor above mentioned twice, and after 2 hours J. Tomborgu is passed on the right. From here road crosses three big khors, and in the next Khor J. Omrad, then cultivation of Goreisha is reached on left of road. Right side, thick bush. Another hour and Goreisha is reached; two villages with good wells and cultivation in khor.

Abu Gulud 4 46 Road now crosses and recrosses this khor, which runs from Abu Gulud; after half an hour village of Salama is passed on khor on right, and after half hour arrive at Abu Gulud. Two villages; wells and cultivation. From here a track goes to Doka.

Zemalat 20 66 Road leaves here in S.W. direction; about 1 mile Agala, a large village, is passed; about 4 miles on a rocky ridge; ditto about 8 miles; about 10 miles village Lubaina. Few huts here. People only here for cultivation; water from Zemalat village on crest or ridge. Water from holes in khor below village, about 1 mile away. From here a good view of hills near Doka and J. Nahut, J. Gadabi, and Ras El Fil obtainable.

Seraf Said 10 76 Road now descends from ridge, cotton soil and bad going; about 6 miles out J. Meriod is passed on right of track—village round other side of hill. Direct track leads off to right to village; bad going cotton soil. Rocky water hole in Meriod Khor not used now; about 10th mile cross Seraf Khor.

Two wells with water-tracks lead from here to Gallabat and Duraba, and the road from Doka joins here.

24.—FAMAKA to ABU RAMLA.

By Major C. W. Gwynn.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Abrunga — — The direct route is up the khor through the Samina group. Very little water among these hills and none on the road.

Belitamaru 14 14 About 1 mile north of the village and Belitamaru there are hills giving a little bed water in the Khor Godaff.

Matongwe 11 25 Matongwe is a small Gumz village among the rocks on the side and top of J. Matongwe. Good well at the foot of the mountain. The mountain is a very striking needle of rock jutting straight out of the plain.

J. Abu Ramla 12 37 No more water is found till J. Abu Ramla is reached, and even there it can only be obtained in any quantity from the Khor Ramla at north-east end of mountain. There are holes in the rock on the hill side, however, which supply the villages with drinking water.

Mek’s Village 3 40

Another route can be taken from Famaka along the Nile to Hoburra, and thence to Belitamaru through Abrunga, but the first portion of the road along the river is very bad.

25.—KARKOJ to HAWATA.

By Mr. E. Bonham Carter, March, 1902.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Karkoj — — R. bank Blue Nile.

Kamrab 18 18 From Karkoj, a narrow but well defined track leads through bush, thick in places, to the village of Kamrab, half a mile beyond which is a well and trees giving excellent shade.

Abu Hashim 4½ 22½ The R. Dinder is reached at Abu Hashim (Sheikh El Amin), a village on the left bank. The Dinder 100 yards wide was dry here (March, 1902), but there were water holes in its bed.

Meshra Deberki 12½ 35 The road here crosses the Dinder and follows the river to Meshra Deberki. River dry here, and about 100 yards wide, but water holes in bed, and there is a large pool about ¼ mile up the river. No village here. Little shade at Meshra, but plenty ½ mile further up the river.

The track here leaves the river, and after crossing an open piece passes through thick bush for 2 miles, after which an open grassy plain with scattered bush extends for some distance.

The track is merely a single donkey track over deeply cracked cotton soil, and is bad going.

Khor Atshan 17 52 Khor Atshan is crossed; a shallow khor draining into the Dinder.

River Rahad 16 68 Track continues same with occasional bush to the Rahad; a few tukls here. Rahad in pools.

Hawata 3 71 Three miles on down stream, Hawata is reached on the right bank. Here there is a pool a ¼ mile long. Fine sunt trees.

26.—ROSEIRES to ABU SHANEINA by RIGHT BANK.

By Major C. W. Gwynn, R.E., 1900.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Roseires — — Mamuria, about 50 feet above the river on one of the steep spurs, which form the escarpment between the general level of the country and the lower river bank. For the first 2 miles the road winds round these spurs close to the river. The road hilly. Then leaving the river it gets into flat country with thick thorn bush.

2¾ 2¾ Path leads to El Damazin, a small village on the river (not visited).

Abu Zago 2¾ 5½ Village lies to the east of the road and N. of the khor (not visited).

Khor Abu Zagoli 1 6½ A well defined channel 20 yards wide, banks 10 feet high, and steep. Halting place for water 200 yards S. of the khor. Water from the Nile about 1 mile. Cultivation at the mouth of the khor. Shelter tukls at halting place.

El Kharaba 3 9½ Three ways lead to the village which lies E. of the road not visited. Recognised camping ground, much overgrown with trees and little clear space. No tukls, ¼ mile to water. From here to about the 15th mile the river is inaccessible, country flat, road good. At 15 miles it approaches the river on a high bluff, and Dakhila can be seen. Thence road descends and would in the wet season be very swampy. Thick jungle.

Dakhila 8½ 18 Small village of about 30 tukls. Lies very low and has all the appearance of being feverish.

Water supply in the dry season from a muddy pool in a dried up channel, bad.

From Dakhila the road runs W. following the river, passing the spurs of J. Maba at about the 22nd mile, road hilly and stony. After passing Maba, country is more open.

Khor Abu Ge 7 25 Stony 100 yards wide, banks steep.

Khor Aiwani ½ 25½ 100 yards wide, thickly wooded, slopes easy.

Khor Yabis ½ 26 A well defined channel 20 yards wide, river within easy reach between Khor Aiwani and Khor Yabis.

Khor Yare 1½ 27½ A well defined channel 10 yards wide.

Abu Gemai 1½ 29 Rest tukls on high bank commanding a fine view of the river. Very good camping ground for small party. Water close, but road to it steep. Village of Abu Gemai on opposite bank, considerable cultivation. J. Fazogli visible.

After Abu Gemai the road leaves the river, and water is not obtainable for some way.

Khor Zarifa 4 33 Very stony, 25 yards wide, said to rise in J. Dimr, but more probably in J. Samina. Forms boundary between Fazogli and Roseires.

Khor Abu Gerin 4½ 37½ 15 yards wide, sandy. About 1 mile, and 2 miles further on are two small khors and dom palms begin.

Ardeiba 3 40½ Recognised halting place, but tukls burnt down. Water 200 yards distant. River narrows to about 150 yards, river bank consisting of shingle cliffs. Village of Ardeiba opposite scattered tukls with little cultivation.

Khor El Masella 1½ 42 Wide valley ½ mile, well defined channel in middle.

Khor El Ghana 2¼ 44¼ Road to Famaka goes straight on, that to Abu Shaneina turns down the bed of the khor and leads to the ferry. Very rough stony foreshore.

Abu Shaneina Ferry ¾ 45 One boat capable of taking horses. Crossing about 300 yards. Village consists of scattered tukls among cultivation. Starting place for most of the caravans to Beni Shangul and Fadassi. Gold coinage (native) obtainable, also sheep and dura. A few donkeys.

27.—SENGA viâ DURRABA to UM EL RUG.

By Captain H. F. S. Amery, March, 1903.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Mena — — Opposite to Senga, on R. bank Blue Nile, Sheikh Adlan, descendant of Fung Sultans of Sennar Fungs and Hawazma. Broad well, defined track, good going.

Lueisa (on Dinder) 15½ 15½ Sheikh Ali Wad Idris, El Hamada, and some Ashraf. At Lueisa also lives Sheikh El Agab, Head Sheikh of Dinder.

Track keeps away from river to cut off bends, direction about S.E. Cultivation near village.

Um Saba 7½ 23 Jungle closes in on both sides track after Kakum.

Khamisa 4½ 27½ Track well defined, soon after Khamisa enters bed of river, and comes out again same side. Cultivation at villages, dura and semsem.

Abu Hashim 7½ 35

El Hagar — —

Murafa 7½ 42½ Most of villages on Dinder are near pools, some have to dig for water in river bed.

Wad Bashush 2½ 45 Some game seen, oribi, reedbuck, &c.

Durraba 7½ 52½ Last inhabited place on Dinder.

Meshra Sherif 8 60½ Large pool.

„ Rekeba — — Path less clearly defined; black cotton soil, badly cracked; shadeless; tracks and droppings of elephants abundant from Duraba whole way up Dinder. After this see no more people on Dinder.

„ Abgir 5½ 66

Koka — —

El Laban — —

Refadik 12½ 78½ All places from Durraba onwards are only water pools, but were mostly hellets in old government days. Water on Dinder excellent throughout, pools more frequent higher up river.

Wad El Haj 11 89½ After Refadik country looks more interesting, and good deal of game seen, ariel plentiful, fresh elephant and buffalo tracks. From here a track made by game cuts across large bend of river for about 2 miles. The only means of progress for hamla after this is in bed of river. Sand heavy, but suits the camels well.

Meshra Gazar 5 94½

Khor Gelagu 10½ 105

„ Masawik 1½ 106½

Beit El Wahesh — —

El Dueim 7 113½

Semsir 2½ 116 Name applies to district around.

Um Bilbis 13 129

Um El Rug 4½ 133½ In this neighbourhood game is plentiful, such as elephant, buffalo, roan, hartebeest, tiang, ariel reedbuck, ostrich, warthog, &c. There are also heglig, talh, kittr, hashab, sunt, kakamot and suba trees. Forests much damaged by jungle fires all along Dinder.

28.—MOUTH OF KHOR GELAGU (DINDER) to GALLABAT.

By Captain H. F. S. Amery, March, 1903.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total from Durraba.

Khor Gelagu — 53½ A tributary on R. bank of Dinder, 53½ miles above Durraba.

Farsh El Ghani — — Track (made by game) keeps away from Gelagu on R. bank, going pretty good; woods (not dense) alternating with large open plains, covered with high grass, called farshes. Ras Amer is a long shallow lake, the west end about 1 mile from Gelagu (which winds very much), at this time (March) 2 miles long E. and W. by 150 to 300 yards broad. East end about 2½ miles from Gelagu. Open plains; either end of lake swarming with game, water of lake very thick and slimy, with fishy taste owing to millions of pelicans, geese, &c. Gave several of our men sore throats.

„ „ Sanei — —

Maya Ras Amer (west end of) 6 59½

Camp 7½ 67 Strike N.N.E. for Rahad (camp on road), badly cracked cotton soil, yellow reed grass and sparsely scattered trees, but no obstacle to hamla marching in any direction across country, provided a couple of men go in front with axes to lop off branches.

Warre 10½ 77½ Strike Rahad at Warre, which like all places mentioned here on the Rahad, used to be flourishing hella in old government days, but now absolutely deserted, and nothing to show that human beings have ever been there.

Wad Dam 2½ 80

Wad Shusha 2½ 82½ River winds very much going alternately in every direction of compass, but doubtful if any time saved by marching through jungle on either bank-bed 50 to 80 yards wide.

Araki 6 88½ All these places are on good pools.

Deleib Mugda 4 92½ „ „ „

El Ebeik 4 96½ „ „ „

Wad Arud 5 101½ „ „ „

Um Dakin 2½ 104 „ „ „

Bed of river begins to be rocky in places and going rough and bad for loaded camels; pools more numerous, not over 40 yards wide in most places.

Mukleil 5 109 After here, better to march on R. bank, river bed stony.

Meshra Abid 12 121 Soon after M. Abid leave river and strike N.E. for Gallabat, soon strike on to track which goes from Gallabat to Hawata made by government last year. This road was made chiefly to enable cattle owners to take their cattle down Rahad, but they all prefer to go viâ Gedaref because of the lions. The road is used to a small extent by honey seekers from Gallabat. Cotton soil badly cracked.

Babikr 28½ 149½ No water till Babikr-hella; consists of several small groups of huts, cultivation, dukhn, semsem, cotton, dura. Inhabitants Takruris, Fors, Gunjara, &c. Country begins to be more undulating, red sandstone, alternating with bad cotton soil till Gallabat, stony in parts, bad going for camels.

Yunes — — Village; well.

Basunda 6½ 156 „ „

Kurunkula — —

Wallak 14 170 Sheikh of Gallabat and of these villages—El Sheikh Sheraf Abdalla. Well.

Khor Otruk 9 179 Water in pool in khor.

Gallabat 5½ 184½

29.—GALLABAT to WAD MEDANI, viâ RIVER RAHAD.[17]

By Captain C. H. Lewin, March, 1902.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Gallabat — — Route follows that to Gedaref as far as Khor Otruk.

Khor Otruk 6 6 Road here diverges to W., crossing Khor Yabis. Water in holes in khor to right of track under large ardeib tree. Road proceeds W. up valley through some cultivation passing village of Sultan.

Khor Yabis ½ 6½

Sultan ½ 7 Well in course of construction. Water not yet (March, 1902) found at 30 feet, but said to be near.

Road winds on through forest, up valley, high wooded hills on either side, crosses spurs and khors. Owing to loose stones and steep gradients, camels can only do 2½ miles an hour.

Ras El Fil 3 10 Track passes over low pass close under this hill, which is highest point of N. ridge, and descends gradually to

Wallak 2½ 12½ Wallak, a scattered village of Kunjaras, one well 40 feet, fair water, 2 rakubas, about 5 acres of cotton, and fair amount of other cultivation. Road proceeds over more level and open country, red gravel soil, and rises to a neck just S. of Kabushi.

Jebel Kabushi 1 13½ A conical grass covered hill. Path descends sharply to water in hollow to right of track, but nearly empty by middle of March.

Water 1 14½

Karnakala ½ 15 Village of Kunjaras. About 12 acres of cotton and considerable amount of other cultivation. Two wells in khor just under village, water at 6 feet good and plentiful. Rakuba by wells under ardeib tree. The Sheikh Ali Seru said he was a soldier with Gordon Pasha.

Track passes through village, turning S. just outside for a short distance.

Going not too good, stony, and as path is only used by donkeys, is narrow for camels, who stumble a good deal.

Khor Abu Jamfa 3 18 Open khor; small amount of water in holes.

Kuka 2 20 Village of Kunjaras. Water comes out of rock at bottom of deep rocky khor, which is overhung by large tebeldi tree of about 10 feet diameter. Road winds S. and then W. again, passing villages of Basunda and Yunis at about ½ mile interval. These draw their water from a deep rocky khor half way between Kuka and Basunda. Good rakubas at all of them.

Babikr 6 26 Going improves as this village is reached. Road still winds through forest country. Very little water left in well. Good rakuba. Sheikh describes this as half-way between Rahad and Gallabat. Track winds to S.W. and going becomes very bad again. Cotton soil, which gives under camels as they go along. Track very indistinct in places.

Domajura 9 35 Road winds between 2 stony low hills of this name. On W. side a well dug in the rock said to have been made by Sheik Saleh Bey, formerly of Gallabat. No water now, and a bad smell emanates from it.

Hag Bakhit 3 38 Track passes over low rocky column of this name. One mile N.W. is ruined Deim of brother of Saleh Bey. It lies on top of hill named Zurga.

Meshra Sirri or Abid (?) 9 47 Track gradually descends to River Rahad passing a few stony hillocks. Bad going, over cotton soil all the way. Meshra 2 miles N. of steep rocky hill Jebel Surur.

Good camping ground in zeriba. A certain number of nomad inhabitants who come down to fish appear to make this a halting place. Water clear, good, and pool deep. Swarms with fish and crocodile, and from tracks appear to be favourite watering place of much game, including elephant and lion.

From Babikr there cannot be said to be any defined track. The way is shown by blazed trees and stumps of trees cut down by clearing party. The whole way practically is bad going, both for camels and donkeys, owing to rotten black cotton soil. Camels go at a slow walk only. From Kuka onwards the route is waterless, but there are plenty of likely looking places where water might be found if wells were dug.

From Meshra Sirri, route runs roughly N.W. along right bank of Rahad, it is marked by blazed trees here and there. At times going very bad over cotton soil. Camels get along with difficulty at slow walk. Sometimes going is good, but only for short time.

Meshra Kakamut 11¾ 58¾ Plenty of water in pool; good shade; zeriba; banks very steep down to water and difficult for camels.

Meshra Myat Bringi 1½ 60¼ Track rises on to a broad low bank by riverside, which is evidently an island when river is in flood.

Meshra Ghaba Susa 2¼ 62½ Zeriba, water ¼ mile up stream, small amount, and very green.

Bendego 2¾ 65¼ Zeriba and meshra. Banks very steep down to water. Quarter mile further on the track passes group of 11 very large tebeldi trees, one of which has diameter 21 feet.

Meshra tebeldi 6½ 71¾ Zeriba by large tebeldi tree, water ¼ mile up stream, very steep bank and not much shade.

Meshra Sangafut 3 74¾ Sangafut, an island in stream when river is in flood. Pool ¼ mile up stream. Banks steep down to pool. Good shade just above. Meshra not at all apparent from road. Zeriba can be seen from road, is built on the bank and is half way between water and island of Sangafut. Water plentiful.

Between this and Ghaba Susa track passes across several shallow khors but no water in them.

Meshra Deresa 7½ 82¼ Half a mile from meshra, and zeriba track strikes river at spot where broad belt of long grass intervenes between it and river bed. Follows curve of river round on high ground to zeriba, which is at a spot on the curve where the river is running from N.E. to S.W. Very steep path down to water immediately to W. end of zeriba, which was impossible for camels, but one just possible ¼ mile E. of zeriba. Water plentiful in pool and good. From here on trees decrease in size and become less dense. Guide said this was formerly a large village and a battalion was stationed here, which was cut up by Abyssinians 35 or 40 years ago. The place was destroyed by Dervishes. The town was ½ mile N.W. of meshra and zeriba. Several lions heard here.

Wad Betul 2½ 84¾ Meshra, no zeriba, road immediately above stream, and country much more open here. From here blazing of trees is discontinued, and direction has to be kept (1902) by compass and stream. Rate of progress cannot be reckoned at more than 2 miles per hour.

Khor Semsem 7½ 92¼ Broad shelving grass-grown khor running in direction from N.E. to S.W. runs into river here. Bad meshra just N.W. of it, little shade, and very steep banks. Water green. 1½ miles from Semsem the river bed widens and becomes muddy—until now it has always been sandy—very good grass grows on the part from which water has receded.

Island (name unknown) 3 95¼ River doubles back and runs nearly S.E. and flows round an island. Track follows several broad and very grassy and bushy khors which caused wide détours.

2¼ 97½ Good spot for camp immediately above a large pool. Banks steep and thickly wooded, though immediate site of camp clear.

The island seems to come to an end about ¼ mile further down stream. From here the track becomes plain again, the tree felling and blazing is regular and systematical, and easily followed. Going improves and camels can occasionally trot. Country becomes more open and track crosses several shallow khors.

Meshra Abrakuba 6 103½ Track strikes river at a broad re-entrant bend. Plentiful supply of water and gently shelving banks easy for any animals to water. Good camping and grazing ground by the river.

Shammam — — A small tukl village of Dinka colonists. Sheikh Dik Malek. Is situated to left of track on rising ground among trees above river. Dura cultivation shows its presence at some distance from the track, from which it is itself invisible. Poor supplies; a little dura was obtained after some difficulty. Water good and plentiful.

From here track bends inland from river crossing the shallow khors of Wad Bikr and Malwia. The track is indistinct and hard to follow owing to clearing having been done in most erratic fashion. Camels have to proceed at a walk. After 7½ miles track, strikes the river again, which is dry here, and is running round a large island, Geziret Fatna. Two miles further on comes

Meshra Geziret Fatna 9½ 119 A large shallow pool rapidly drying up. Track runs along this pool for about 1 mile over rough going where the two branches of the river round Geziret Fatna re-unite and track strikes N. and then trends round to river again, striking it at Wad El Kashedi.

Wad El Kashedi 2½ 121½ A good pool, but banks steep, looks as if an old canal formerly ran into river from W. Jebel Mogadad appears in distance in E. direction. Going still bad. Cotton soil, but fewer trees.

Track follows close to river bank, water occasionally in pools, but banks steep. Two miles from Hawata track improves and enters belt of trees through which it is well cleared. Some cultivation about in cleared patches.

Hawata 7½ 129 Fair-sized tukl village of Hamadas. Fair supplies and good pool of water immediately beside village. Track from here improves greatly. It is well cleared and camels can trot. The journey from Gallabat to Hawata cut the feet of 4 out of 5 camels so badly that they were unable to proceed further. Between Meshra Sirri and Hawata game very plentiful. Numerous tracks of elephants; lions were heard each night. Giraffe seen twice. Ariel frequently seen in enormous herds of over 100. North of Hawata no more lions or elephants, and ariel became scarce. I saw natives coursing gazelle, and they say they hunt a good deal.

Girbu 2 131 From Hawata, track winds through trees and long grass to small tukl village on river bank with some scattered tukls further on. Country opens out into large grass plains dotted with bushes and clumps of trees.

Nuwar 8 139 A small tukl village to left of track some way back from river. Jebel Beila at right angles to track, N.E.

Wadi Nagami 3 142 A new tukl village of Hamadas rapidly springing up. Over 30 tukls already built. People said to be returning from khors and jebels round. A few sheep, no camels.

Mafasa 1 143 Another rapidly increasing village of Hamadas. Signs of old tukls shown. There are now over 30 new ones.[18] Sheep and oxen, but no camels. About ¼ mile from river. A little dura cultivated. From here, track passes through grass plains and trees for 3 miles, and then gets into thick bush country for another 3 miles, rising slowly the whole time till it suddenly emerges on top of cleared, broken, and hillocky ground, from which it descends sharply into and crosses the river bed which is dry here. After crossing the river track turns S.W. following round S. edge of a dry shallow branch of the river, which is lined thickly on either bank by good-sized trees through which path winds and gradually works round to N.E. direction.