Volume 2 — CHAPTER III. (continued 2)

No water for the next 28 miles.

Jebel Irkit-Anob 8 198 Track leaves Khor Lokweb now, which runs west, and enters Khor Ribdab. Channel 50 to 100 yards wide, with low banks covered with bush, hard sandy bottom, excellent going, direction due south. Sighted here, due south, curious grey hill, with top sticking up like a chimney, called Jebel Irkit Anob, a good land mark. Natives said no one had ever been able to climb to its top. Three miles on reached plain, where the old Mamuria stood. Five miles on passed close to the above-mentioned hill, leaving it on our left. Track shortly afterwards leaves khor and runs west over plain of acacia, coarse grass, &c. Nine miles on reached hill called Tiniki, with a single thorn tree on its east shoulder, moved round its east flank in single file into plain beyond; direction west, bad going, and axes had to be used in places. Fifteen miles on sighted Jebel Kassala to south-west. Bush- grown plain. Shortly after track passes between low hills on the right, called Shushaieb, and a large burying ground on left, called “Balad Ali Gabret,” and enters shortly after khor of that name, running south and west, with six wells of good water, 4 feet below surface. Plenty of shade. Jebel Sabderat is seen on left front.

Jebel Shushaieb 16 214

Khor Ali Gabret 4 218

Kassala 18 236 Track now leaves khor and runs south-west over grassy park-like plain, covered with bush, &c. Bad going in places. Seven miles on sighted Jebel Mokram and, passing it on our left, reached Kassala, 3 miles further on.

10.—KASSALA to MAMAN direct.

By Captain H. H. Morant, April, 1900.

General Remarks.The most direct road to Maman is the old telegraph route which leaves Kassala in N.N.E. direction past the north end of J. Mokram, and after following the new telegraph line for about 10 miles then turns nearly due north and leaves the new telegraph to the east. Country: good going, covered with scattered bush, but thicker along khors, some of which are more or less serious obstacles in the rains. Though water is not plentiful along this route it was sufficient in April, 1900, to enable a party of 50 Camel Corps, 2 horses, 50 natives on foot, and 2,000 head of cattle and sheep to reach the wells at Tukruf, near Kassala, without any special arrangements for water.

Maman is on the direct road to Suakin: for portion of route to Suakin N. of Maman, vide Route 8.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Kassala — —

Khor Girger (Wells) 19 19 Bir Galgal in Khor Girger; very little water in April, 1900.

Tendelai-i ( Wells) 12 31 From here the track continues N.N.E. by N., passing about midway between Jebels Roreb and Shushaieb to the northern extremity of the latter, where there are several wells in the khor called Tendelai-i. These wells had also very little water. From here the track continues in the same direction, good going, country open and grassy, scattered bush except along khors, several of which are crossed, to Khor Telkuk, before reaching which Jebel Obillit is passed about 2 miles to the west. There was said to be a well in the khor somewhere near this jebel. From here to Maman, country very open; good hard going and short grass. Three more khors are crossed, chief of which is Togan.

Khor Telkuk, or El Ku, or Obillit 20 51

9 60

Maman 5 65 The wells in K. Maman. Many Gemilab Hadendoas here.

11.—ADARAMA to BIR OSHI (KHOR LANGEB).

By Captain Kenrick, 11th Hussars, September, 1901.

N.B.—The localities of wells and water in the country described in both the following Route Reports depend largely on the season and the year, and to a great extent on local rain storms. Much reliance cannot therefore be placed on previous reports.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Adarama — — After leaving Adarama the road goes E. for about 6 miles over sandy soil covered with tufts of dry tabas grass. Jebel Asoteribab is visible to the S.E. Khor Amab is then crossed; this is always dry, I was told; it comes from S.E., and runs a little way further to the N. Osman Digna is said to have had his extreme E. outpost of 20 men here to levy blackmail on anyone coming to Berber. There are acacia bushes in this khor. Two miles after crossing the khor, the range Jebel Tobrar comes into view. All bushes cease here, and for 4 or 5 miles the way is over an undulating sandy country with tufts of withered grass. On descending a low sandy hill, Khor Shedieb is met running S.W. and draining a black, light sandy plain running E. and W., along which the way proceeds for 6 miles; low sand hills to the S. The plain is treeless, except a few stunted bushes in Khor Shedieb. After marching E. over this plain the sand hills begin to close in at a place called El Yukreik, where there is a little shade from a few small tundub bushes; this is said to be full of water and green grass in a rainy year, but it is quite dry now; this is about 20 miles distant from Adarama. The direction is then eastwards through a succession of valleys shut in by low sand hills running N. and S. about 3 miles by 3 miles. One valley, just before entering the Hegerib Plain in which Bir Kerikun lies, is full of bushes and is cotton soil, but not bad going; there must be a good deal of water all over this country in a good year, but it is quite dry now. There is no grass for horses the whole way; the going is good, but a little heavy over the sand hills from one valley to another, and also, except just when entering Wadi Hegerib, 3 miles before reaching Bir Kerikun.

Jebel Tobrar 2 8

Khor Shedieb 5 13

El Yukreik 7 20

Bir Kerikun 15 35

¾ 35¾ On leaving Bir Kerikun, march N. about ¾ mile to get over the low sand hills, the way then goes E. and slightly N. The road winds a little when passing over the sand hills to get out of the valleys, which are exactly similar to those about 12 miles before Kerikun, except that there are more selem or samr bushes in them, which give a fair amount of shade. Just before entering Wadi Todabanob there is a valley which the Arabs told me is capital grazing in a good year.

Khor Shanfaiet — — Khor Shanfaiet comes in at the S.W. corner of this valley. Large graveyard of Shebodinab Arabs here. Going good; sand a little heavy across the sand hills. No grass fit for horses. On entering Wadi Todabanob the wells lie at the foot of a sand hill. They are about 8 in number (though there are others quite filled up in other parts of the valley); three only of these are open, and two of these only had water in them; they are unlined. They were:—

Todabanob 13¼ 49

Depth to water 14 feet.

Depth of water 2½ feet (approx.).

Circumference 3¼ feet.

I got about 3 camel fantasses full out of them. I have now learnt from three sources that it was, as I suspected at the time, only rain water from the shower two nights before. They are now almost dry. Excellent shade in Todabanob from large sayal trees; no grass; must be swamp in a wet year. No Arabs at all on the route. Wadi Todabanob runs N. and S. Khor Derudeb comes in at S. E. (about).

J. Sanai — — After passing eastwards over the sand hills leading out of Wadi Todabanob, J. Sanai comes into view in the E., and J. Ararab to S.E.; after a switchback course of about 2½ miles over the sand hills the road drops into Wadi Shakauni, half of which is covered with withered Tabas grass, and a little green grass, tundub bushes, and Senna, the remaining half barren sand; this is crossed after marching 3 miles. On ascending a slight ridge the sand hills are left, and Khor Derudeb comes into sight about 6 miles off, running in a half-circle from N.E. to S.W. J. Tebilol, in the E., is also sighted. The ground just before coming to Khor Derudeb, as in the low-lying parts of all these khors, is cotton soil, but the going is not bad. About 12 miles from Bir Todabanob, Khor Derudeb is crossed at a point called El Garud, where there are rain pits; these cannot be relied on for water. The way now goes eastwards for about 11 miles over a stony plain, but good going on tracks, past J. Tebilol and Khor El Ashob. There was very little water when I came here, but a violent storm came on in the night and brought down the khor; after such a storm there is plenty of water, sufficient, I think, to last for four or five months. There was one large pool of water, 40 yards long, 8 yards broad, and 10 feet deep. Plenty of shade near the khor, and good grass on the banks. The plain just before Khor El Ashob is treeless; the going the whole way is good.

J. Ararab — —

Wadi Shakauni 2½ 51½

J. Tebilol — —

Khor Derudeb — —

El Garud 9½ 61

J. Tebilol — —

Khor El Ashob 10½ 71½

Jebel Wararaweb — — The road goes eastwards through the pass of J. Wararaweb, but there are several miles (3) of cotton soil to pass first. The pass itself is very stony, broken ground and bad going for about 3 of 4 more miles. Then S.E. over a very stony plain for 10 miles to Khor Godamaieb; this plain is crossed by small khor, near which and in which there is always a little green grass and some shade. Khor Godamaieb was dry. The well Tisharam is on the west bank, and is a very good one, though unlined; its dimensions were:—

Khor Hambokeb

Khor Godamaieb — —

Tisharam 38½ 110

Depth to water 9 feet.

Depth of water (good) 5 feet.

Circumference 7 feet.

I was told Osman Digna usually went viâ Khor El Ashob, Bir Delai and Khor Delai to Khor Araf. Plenty of dom palms on each bank, some coarse green grass; remains of a very large old well filled up.

Khor Angwatiri 2½ 112½ Cross Khor Godamaieb, about 50 yards wide, march N.E. over a road for the most part stony, except 2½ miles from Khor Godamaieb, where Khor Angwatiri is crossed; there is green grass in plenty, and some shade from thorn bushes. It was full of Gemilab Arabs and their flocks, who water away to the E. in Khor Amboreb, where there are some pools of water. After 5 miles further you enter the hills, and there are 4 miles of very bad stony going in and out of small khors in the midst of stony mountains till you descend into Khor Barshoi, about 1 mile long, with dom palms on both banks; then Khor Araf comes in from the N.W., and the way to Khor Langeb is up this khor, averaging 30 or 40 yards in width, thick dom trees on either bank, coarse green grass in places, but not in any great quantity. The mountains all through run down to the dom palms on the banks of the Khor Araf on each side; away in the distance are some very high stony peaks. A very few Gemilab were in the khor. The going on the whole is very good in the khor, except in a few places where the sand is heavy. About 5 miles from junction of Khor Araf with Khor Barshoi was a pool of rain water near the left bank, about 15 yards long, 4 yards broad, and 2 feet deep. The pool to be relied on is El Getite, on left bank of Khor Araf, about 16 miles from junction of Khor Araf and Khor Barshoi, and 31 from Bir Tisharam; it is rainwater and will last 4 months. It is close up to the rock where the hills run down into the khor. It is 209 yards long, 10 yards broad, and 10 or 12 feet deep. Muddy water, but quite wholesome.

Khor Amboreb 7½ 120

Khor Barshoi 4 124

Khor Araf 6 130

El Getite 11 141

Umna Dunyin 10 151 The road then goes on down Khor Araf with many twists and turns till the pool of rain-water called Umna Dunyin is reached, about 10 miles from El Getite, but 15 yards long and about 6 yards broad, 4 or 5 feet deep in the centre, will probably last 2 months more. After 2½ miles from Umna Dunyin, J. Hambolib is in sight, round which the khor twists for about 3 miles, till the wells called J. Hambolieb are passed. They are filled up with sand, and only a person who knew them well would know they had ever existed. However, I was told there is water underneath; if so, a small fatigue party could clean out the sand in a few hours. I think Khor Langeb joins Khor Araf just near here, running due E. here. Dom palms, tarfa jungle, and small quantity of green grass on the banks. Five miles up this khor, on left bank, is Bir Oshi, at mouth of small Khor Oshi; the same remarks apply to Bir Oshi as to Bir Araf. Bir Gabati, slightly further on, I was told is the same. There is, I am told, water in Khor Odi, and a big pool at Areiwat, and no lack of water further on. On the right bank on entering Khor Langeb are some graves on a hill, said to be the graves of Roman soldiers; the Hadendoas are afraid of opening them, though they think there is treasure there.

J. Hambolib 2½ 153½

Bir Oshi 4½ 158

Bir Oshi is distant about 48 miles from Bir Tisharam, this is owing to the twists the khor makes, and one is not able to leave Khor Araf often on account of the hills coming down close to the banks of the khor and rendering the ground impassable.

12.—EL GETITE (in KHOR ARAF) to ADARAMA, viâ BIR DELAI and TENDERA.

By Captain Kenrick, September, 1901.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

El Getite — — March from El Getite to junction of Khor Araf with Khor Barshoi (vide previous route report), then march for 2 miles N.W. up Khor Araf almost to its source; the khor narrows here and the path is a little stony in places, then turn W. over a stony plain for 2 miles, very fairly good going until the source of Khor El Ashob is reached. From this place may be sighted sources of Khor Araf and Khor Amboreb, which runs away apparently S.E. There was plenty of grass and shade here. Leaving Khor El Ashob, which runs away to the N.W., afterwards turning S.W. again to join Khor Derudeb, march S.W. to Khor Delai, 7½ miles distant; road stony, but good going on sheep tracks, the stones are not very thick, nor is it rocky. Cross several khors en route, Khor Beida is one of them; there is a little grass in all of these. On reaching Khor Delai, after going a few yards down the khor the well is reached in the centre of the khor, recently cleaned out by the Arabs, but there are none here now. The well is lined with wood.

Khor Barshoi 17 17

Khor El Ashob 4 21

Khor Delai 7½ 28½

Khor Beida — —

Bir Delai — 28½

Depth to water 3½ feet.

Depth of water (very clean) 10 „

Circumference (approx.) 7 „

Good cattle watering places round the well. Good shade. Some green grass in the khor.

5 33½ After leaving Bir Delai, first march 5 miles along right bank of Khor Delai (looking towards mouth of khor), direction W., cross the khor at the point where it runs slightly N.W. to join Khor El Ashob, then 8 miles over stony, but very level plain, excellent going in cattle tracks and sheep tracks S.W. to pool El Ashob in Khor El Ashob, 40 yards long, 12 feet deep and 8 yards broad. Well filled up, 3 miles to N.W.; could be opened if necessary in khor under dom palm.

Pool El Ashob 8 41½

Khor Derudeb 5 46½ Leave Khor El Ashob, crossing to right bank (looking towards mouth), going in a westerly direction 5 miles to Khor Derudeb, cross this khor. A little cotton soil on E. bank of Khor Derudeb, going otherwise good, over light, stony, sandy soil, but no shade except at the khors. Then N.W. 10 miles further on to Khor Abu Sillem, coming from N. of J. Torbraa range; going good, grass in Khor Abu Sillem, also shade. N.W. still 6 miles further to Khor Breitak, there I found two pools of rain-water, muddy, but sweet. They were in the khor and were about 40 yards long, 6 yards broad and 1 foot deep. About 5 miles of some of the best grazing I have seen in the country. The Sheikh said the water had been there 2 months and would only last 9 days more, another Arab I asked said a month more. The Sheikh also pointed out the road to the N. to Bir Tendera; both he and my guides said half a day’s journey, i.e., 13 miles, easy road, and it looked good what I saw of it. Very good shade here.

Khor Abu Sillem 10 56½

Khor Breitak 6 62½

Bir Tendera 13 75½

Sekotieb 20 95½ From Tendera, Adarama is 40 miles (Arabs 2 days, loaded camels), road easy (there may be a little cotton soil), some shade and grass at Bir Tendera, also some shade at Sekotieb (?), 20 miles (about) from Adarama. The well (Tendera) itself is large, always has water in it.

Adarama 20 115½ This information, though I have seen the road as far as Khor Shedieb and corroborate it so far, is hearsay, as I had not time to go there myself. My informants are my two guides, Sheikh Mohammed Isa and the Mulazim Awal, of Slavery Department at Adarama, all of whom have been there, and many Arabs re water.

Note.—In the long grass (September) a large number of snakes exactly similar to the Indian cobra were met. I killed 4 on the march. The Hadendoa name for them is “kokwa” whilst the Ababda called them “Dugga.”

13.—UMBREGA (R. SETIT) TO SOFI (R. ATBARA).

By Captain H. H. S. Morant.—March, 1900.

N.B.—For description of route further east and notes on this road, vide Route 125, Appendix.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Umbrega[9] — — From here there is a tolerably distinct track following the crest-line of the plateau, and the river is seen and approachable only occasionally, being always 1 to 4 miles on left. The descents to Meshras Abedo and Godema are passed, and then the burial ground and khor of Torab Karuf, further on the district of Sheikh Ageil and Meshra El Zuhani. From Sheikh Ageil J. Esir and Lukdi are both visible N.N.W. and S.S.W. respectively, latter being on boundary of Hamrans towards Abyssinia.

Abedo 3¾ 3¾

Godema ¾ 4½

K. Turab Karuf 1¼ 5¾

Sheikh Ageil 4 9¾

El Zuhani 1½ 11¼

Gat Wad El Hag 6½ 17¾ Leaving this, the path passes clearings of former cultivation, and after 3 miles of thick bush, Gat Wad El Hag. Meshra El Hagar El Zuruk is reached, and after following bed of river for ½ a mile, plateau is regained, and Gira is next Meshra. On left bank are cliffs, on which are situated the ruins of the old Egyptian Fort. K. Lobetir and K. Wad Heleiwa being crossed, village of latter name, which is the sole existing one of Hamrans at present time, is reached. From here Setit is crossed, and later R. Atbara and village of Sofi is reached.

El Hagar El Zuruk 1¾ 19½

Gira 10½ 30

K. Lobetir 6 36

K. Wad Heleiwa 2 38

Setit 1¼ 39¼

Atbara 7½ 46¾

Sofi ¾ 47½ Little game was seen between Umbrega and Sofi.