Volume 2 — CHAPTER VIII.

(KORDOFAN).

69.—SHEIKH SADIK to HOMRA.

There is a good broad track the whole way. Good grazing, but indifferent shade.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Sheikh Sadik — — A small and very dirty village. One well 120 feet deep. Shade in khor to the south. Tomb visable at a distance. Good mosque. People own many goats. Dura sometimes available. Leaving the village the track crosses a khor and leads over gravel soil across several shallow khors. The country is fairly open, much samr bush. Telegraph line is on the west.

Wadi Afu 8 8 Is reached soon after crossing the telegraph line. Much cultivation on the surrounding rising ground. The gravel is now much mixed with clay which makes the going bad during rain.

Goz El Leia 15½ 23½ Sand commences and continues to Shageig. The marakh bush first appears.

Bir Khanga 6 29½ Now dry. There is also a large fula. Many others exist in the neighbourhood. Heavy going in places (1903).

Shageig 13½ 43 Fula and many wells. Water practically unlimited. Small village. Fair shade but grazing bad in hot weather. The road now leads to the north end of J. Tius. There is little shade, but fair grazing.

J. Tius 18 61 About 300 feet high above plain. The road crosses the sand hill that has collected on the north side. The road now passes one or two fulas that only contain water in the rains.

El Homra 16 77 Good rest house. Small Gowama village. Two good wells 125 feet deep. Fair shade near well. Moderate grazing, gets indifferent towards end of hot weather owing to the large number of convoys that pass through.

70.—EL DUEIM to HOMRA.

This is portion of the main route from El Dueim to El Obeid. There is a well defined track throughout.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

El Dueim — — Leaving the town in a westerly direction, the track is at first difficult to pick up. Black soil, which during the rains becomes very swampy. Bush never bad, but many khors, which at times hold a great deal of water, have to be crossed.

Id El Ud 11½ 11½ Small Kurtan village, many wells, water practically unlimited. Fair shade near wells, but during the rains ground becomes very swampy and mosquitoes are very bad.

Track continues over black soil at first. Then sand gradually increases and the bush disappears. After 4 miles no shade. Nothing but marakh bush. Slightly undulating country.

30th mile 30 41½ Telegraph line is struck, and soon after J. Helba is seen ahead.

Helba 8 49½ Two wells 90 feet deep; good supply of water. Small Shuweihat village. Little shade near wells, but plenty ½ mile on. The road is on the south side of the telegraph line. There is a good deal of bush, sayal, heglig, etc.

Homra 13 62½ See Route No. 69.

71.—HOMRA to EL OBEID viâ BARA.

(Corrected to January, 1904.)

Throughout this route there is plenty of grazing and firewood. Water is, however, apt to give out at Homra and Shegeila if more than 300 camels are watered in one day as may happen at times, but the wells quickly refill. Wide track the whole way.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Homra — — Small Gowama village. Two good wells 125 feet deep. Good rest house, and fair shade near. Little dura for sale as a rule. Good track S. of telegraph line. Good shade for first 13 miles, then nothing but marakh bush, good grazing.

Sakra 21½ 21½ Small village S. of road. Well 100 feet deep on N. side of telegraph line. Water for 100 men. Rest house; no shade.

Shatib 12½ 34 Small village; one well; no shade.

Old Well 5½ 39½ In middle of track. Much cultivation near belonging to Gafala; a Maganin village visible 1½ miles S.

Shegeila 6 45½ Large Gowama village; two good wells 140 feet deep. Can water 200 camels. Rest house. From here there are two roads to Baharia viâ Wad Abu Suleiman and viâ Zereiga. The latter is the better.

Viâ ZEREIGA.

Track follows telegraph line. Very little shade.

Zereiga 5 50½ Two wells 125 feet deep. Small village; little shade, and bad grazing near wells.

Country open; little shade.

Baharia 13½ 64 Two wells 80 feet deep. Rest house. Large Gowama village. Fair shade near village. Water very plentiful.

Viâ WAD ABU SULEIMAN.

Road goes nearly S. at first; much gum and sayal bush, thick in places.

Wad Abu Suleiman 9 54½ Small village; one well 90 feet deep. There is another village with well a mile to the S. on the Um Semeima-Um Dam road.

Um Semeima 2½ 57 Two small villages; each has a well. Road from Um Dam comes in here. Track leads due W.; marakh bush; no shade.

Baharia 6½ 63½ See above.

The country is now quite open. Marakh bush; no shade.

Shereim 17 81 A small Gowama village on the N. side of the road. One well. A mile before reaching it gum, sayal and haraz bush appear. Road winds a good deal, and bush is thicker to within 1 mile of Bara when cultivation commences.

Bara 5 86 Large village with mosque and small suk. Good rest house. Wells from 6 to 20 feet deep, water practically unlimited. Good grazing near.

Leaving the S. end of the town there is a wide track E. of the telegraph line. Heavy going to 5 miles beyond Um Sot.

Daragai Well 9 95 One well on road. Fair shade near, but ground much soiled by camels and cattle.

Um Sot 3 98 One well on road 85 feet deep; good supply of water. Good shade under large haraz trees near village 3 miles S.E. Next 5 miles heavy going, then road improves.

Fula Faragalla 12½ 110½ One hundred yards in diameter, generally dry by end of October. Good shade and grazing near. J. Kurbag is seen in front. Road passes to W. of jebel.

Fula Kurbag 9 119½ S.W. of jebel; 100 by 80 yards, usually dry by mid-October. Good shade.

From here to El Obeid there is no shade. The track passes through dukhn cultivation. Good going.

El Obeid 5 124½ Main track goes to the town. For the Mudiria follow the telegraph line when struck. At night be careful to avoid the wire stays to the poles.

72.—EL DUEIM to EL OBEID, viâ HASHABA.

By Captain W. Lloyd, Scot. Rifles (March, 1900), and Mr. R. E. More (1903).

This is the shortest route between the river and El Obeid. There is good grazing throughout, though shade is sometimes wanting. After Hashaba, there are two routes to Um Sedeira, one viâ Um Dam, the other viâ Abu Areish. The former is the better, as there is plenty of water at Um Dam.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

El Dueim — — Leaving the town in a westerly direction the track goes over black soil which, during the rains, forms a serious obstacle to transport. Bush never bad, but several khors have to be crossed, which, at times, hold a good deal of water.

Id El Ud 11½ 11½ Small Kurtan village; many wells, water practically unlimited. The Agaba is now entered. Track hard to pick up at first. During the rains it is often necessary to go some way to the N., as the ground W. of wells is liable to floods. Mosquitoes are then very bad. No shade.

J. Shwei (Rest house) 24 35½ Rest house. Low isolated hill S. of track. Country becomes more undulating and bush increases. Good grazing, but no shade. Well now being dug, but water not yet reached at 180 feet (September, 1904).

Hashaba El Murad (Rest house) 27 62½ Maganin village. Three wells 140 feet deep. Rest house. Dôm palms near village form good land mark. Take the western road; after leaving the cultivation little but marakh bush is seen. Good grazing.

Shegela 8½ 71 A small Maganin village. No well; water from Hashaba. Good track; slightly undulating country. Hashab trees commence and continue to within a few miles of Um Dam. Direction nearly due W.

Um Dam (Rest house) 23 94 Head Quarters of Khursi District. Rest house and 3 good wells 130 feet deep. Much cultivation all round and several small villages near. Leaving in a south-westerly direction, good track; gum and sayal bush. Gowama.

Um Basira 3 97 Small village off road to N.; often called Fiki Taha; well. Good track; gum and sial bush, thick in places.

Wad Kamuri 5½ 102½ Two villages. One good well. Plenty of grazing and shade off road to S.

Goz El Hagiz 3 105½ A low sandy ridge running nearly N. and S. Country now becomes more undulating, and continues so to within 10 miles of El Obeid.

Um Sedeira (Rest house) 3½ 109 Three villages, with one good well 80 feet deep; can water 30 camels. Good shade and grazing.

Adara 5 114 One well 80 feet deep; good water. Good track, but heavy going.

Um Heim 8½ 122½ One well 100 feet deep; can water 15 camels. Um Beida, 6 miles S.E., has a similar well.

Um Busha (Rest house) 3 125½ Two wells 120 feet deep. Good shade and grazing near wells. Many haraz trees. Road now bears S. W. J. Gleit and J. Kurbag are left to the N. Well marked track all the way. Some bush, but cultivation for last 5 miles.

El Obeid 33 158½

The following is an alternative route. There is, however, less water, and the road is much less frequented.

Hashaba El Murad — 62½ Leaving in a S.W. direction there is little bush at first. Good track.

Bagera 25 77½ Three small Gowama villages. One bad well 140 feet deep, not to be depended on. Good track; sayal bush.

Abu Areish 16 93½ Small village. One well 120 feet deep. Can water 15 camels with difficulty. The road from Taiara to Um Dam crosses here. Good track over red sandy soil.

Goz El Hagiz 4 97½ Low sandy hill.

Um Shidera 3½ 101 As above.

El Obeid 49½ 150½ As above.

73.—GEDID to EL DUEIM, viâ UM DEISIS.

By Captain W. Lloyd, the Scottish Rifles, February, 1901, and Colonel the Hon. M. G. Talbot, R.E., December, 1901.

The whole of this road is over black cotton soil, and is occasionally impassable during the rains, at which time tracks east and west leading from one patch of cultivation to another along the red sandy ridges are more generally used. There is practically no bush near the road and very little shade.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Gedid Wells — — The road goes almost due N. from the wells. A few small villages are seen west of the road, inhabited only during the rains.

Selia 25 25 A Gimma village on a hill, belonging to Sheikh Nur Hussein, and four other Ahamda villages. Thirty wells, 8 feet deep, 1½ miles N.E. Good water, but they soon run dry. There are roads from here to Fachi Shoya and J. Kon.

Um Deisis 7 32 About 40 wells, 30 feet deep. Plenty of water, This is a Kurtan village. The gum gardens and cultivation belong to them, but the Beni Jerar water their cattle here, and their camping places are frequently seen.

Abu Sela 18 50 A Shanabla village situated on a hill. The country all round is very open, and firewood scarce. The wells (not seen) are 2½ miles S.E. of the village. The country now becomes more desert-like, but during the rains all the ridges are cultivated. A few miles before reaching Um Bueira many villages are seen to the east of the road. These belong to Um Bueira.

Um Bueira 11 61 Some 20 very good wells, 28 to 30 feet deep. The villages and cultivation to the E. of the road belong to the Mesellemia, to the W. of the road chiefly to the Shanabla. There is no bush about, and at this time of year (Feb.) very little grass. Hundreds of sheep and goats water daily.

Shat 2½ 63½ A large place with suk and many merchants. The wells are numerous; about 30 feet deep, and give a practically unlimited amount of water. No shade and little grass near wells, as it is eaten down by the cattle, sheep, and goats, who come to water. Many villages about, Mesellemia and Shanabla, and in the rains much cultivation. In rains water stands, and mosquitoes are bad.

Three miles on the bush commences, but is never very dense and generally grows in patches.

Um Sunta 10 73½ A small pool.

The bush now consists of kittr, heglig, and talh, but is never an obstacle to transport.

The ground is a good deal cracked and is at intervals impassable in the rains.

El Dueim 8 81½ For description, see Part I, p. 66.

74.—SHAT WELLS to EL OBEID, viâ J. KON.[28]

As far as Zereiga, by Colonel the Hon. M. G. Talbot, R.E., December, 1901; remainder by Captain W. Lloyd, the Scottish Rifles, March, 1901.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Shat Wells — — The road bears nearly S.W., well marked and nearly straight, crossing several sandy ridges. Easy ascents and descents. The only “Id” passed is Abu Shareima, where there is a natural pool of little depth and quite dry. About 1 mile to the N. is a new Shanabla village.

Goz Um Sibila 5½ 5½ Goz Um Sibila is crossed. It does not seem more remarkable than the other ridges, but the name is well known.

Zereiga Wells 5½ 11 Many wells, 15 to 20 feet deep, good water. J. Bachi just visible in the evening from highest mound near wells. Water supply diminishes in summer. Water stands here after heavy rain, when mosquitoes are very bad.

The country becomes slightly undulating, good well-marked track, red sand, a few hashab trees about, but country generally open; little shade.

Amara 28 39 Remains of about 30 old wells. Formerly a Baza village.

Um Ged ½ 39½ Ditto; but remains of more wells. This is a well-known halting place for convoys from Ageila, as there is a little shade.

Road divides 13½ 53 The southern track goes to Ageila, said to be “one day”; the other turns due W., crossing the sandy ridge that has collected N. of J. Kon. There is a good deal of bush about.

J. Kon 1½ 54½ A rocky ridge running nearly N. and S., ¾ mile long, and rising about 300 feet above the plain. A little water on the mountain, and many old wells on the W. side near the track. These are said to have formerly given plenty of water.

Hella Kon 1 55½ A small Gowama village. Water from J. Kon.

Alleiga 3½ 59 A small Baza village. No well; water from Bint Joda.

Id Adam 3 62 Remains of eight old wells; said to have been 80 feet deep.

Bint Joda Wells 3 65 Twenty wells, 85 feet deep, not much water in them. Five more being opened. There was formerly much cultivation about.

The village is ¾ mile to the E. People are Baza and Gowama, and own many gum gardens.

The country continues slightly undulating, covered with hashab bush, but the latter is never very thick near the road.

Um Bilbil 1 66 Old wells. Gowama. Formerly much cultivation.

Gogran 1 67 Ditto.

Elton 3½ 70½ Ditto.

Fula Masuda 1 71½ Thirty yards in diameter, 2 feet deep, now dry.

Rabeisab Wells 1 72½ Now fallen in.

Rabeisab 2¾ 75¼ Gowama village of thirty tukls, water from Wad Kasim.

Wad Kasim 2½ 77¾ Twelve wells open, 70 feet deep. Little water; it took an hour to fill 12 zigs, working four wells at the time. The wells and cultivation belong to the Messadab tribe.

Um Butran 1¾ 79½ Deserted Gowama village.

Wad Delu 3¼ 82¾ Old wells. Gowama. Much cultivation formerly.

Group of old wells 3½ 86¼ About thirty. Guide did not know their name.

Sayala 7½ 93¾ Very small Gowama village. Sheikh Ahmed Omar (lives at Taiara). Two very bad wells. Signs of former cultivation now become less, and the hashab trees increase, until near Taiara the bush is in places thick enough to interfere with traffic.

Taiara 24½ 118¼ A large village, with good wells and market. Head quarters of a District. Many merchants, who buy gum with grain and cotton stuffs. It was once a large place, but in January, 1900, had not more than ten tukls. It is however growing very rapidly. Sheikh Ahmed Omar, Gowama Homran, and Sheikh Mohammed El Mahir, Gowama Gemeiia, are the two principal sheikhs.

For the next 18 miles the track, which is well defined, crosses a series of ridges of red sand. These run from N. to. S., and, though never very steep, delay trotting camels and disturb the loads of transport animals. They are Goz Taiara, immediately W. of the town, Goz Um Ageiga, Goz Benit Ranim, Goz Multut, Goz Amarik Sinein.

Amarik 6 124¼ Village on side of last named hill. Next comes Goz Amarik El Fungara and then Goz Bartai.

Bartai 3¼ 127½ A small village on the W. of the last-named hill.

Goz Abd El Azim, Goz Gaabr.

Fula Gaabr 3 130½ There are two natural ponds, one to the N. and one to the S. of the road. They are usually dry by November. Goz Boli, at the foot of which is a pool called Um Butab; Goz Um Hemeira, at the foot of which is a small pond of the same name. Goz Fiki Gelalat El Din, a mile beyond which is a pool about 35 yards in diameter called Fula Magbus; dry in October.

Gafil 4½ 135 A small village on the east side of the Goz El Hagiz El Ashgar, which forms the western boundary of the Gowama country. Water from a bad well, and from Fula Magbus.

The track now enters more level country, but khors are crossed in many places, and the going is very bad in the rains.

J. Kao 4 139 Is left to the N. of the road. The hashab tree becomes rare, but in places the bush is dense though the actual track is clear enough. A few tebeldis.

J. Deigo 9 148 On the north of the track. There are two fulas, one S. and one W. Both dry up by November as a rule.

Deigo 1¾ 149¾ A small village. Water from the above fulas and from El Obeid. The road from El Rahad comes in here.

El Obeid 6½ 156¼

75.—SHAWAL to GEDID viâ FACHI SHOYA and EL ALOB, thence viâ DAR EL AHAMDA to TAGALE.

By Captain H. H. S. Morant, the Durham L.I., 1901, from Personal Observation as far as Dar El Ahamda, Remainder from Native Sources (February, 1901).

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Shawal — — Is on the right bank, and nearly directly opposite to H. Sheikh Bordein, a small Sudanese wood-cutting settlement (1901) on left bank. From the latter a good track along left bank, through thick bush for first mile or two, leads to Fachi Shoya, which is a flourishing village and the residence of Sheikh Gubara, head Sheikh of the Shankhab tribe. There are also some Greeks here, agents of Khartoum merchants, for the purchase of gum.

Fachi Shoya 12 12

(From here there is an alternative and rather shorter route to Gedid viâ Bellali 17 miles, Abu Aadel 21½ miles, and Menauel 29 miles).

The track still continues within a mile or less of the river, which is accessible almost anywhere. There are many Arab encampments along the river, rather more than a mile inland.

El Hasai 4 16 Shankhab, dry weather village on river bank. El Alob, a long sandy “Goz” or hill is passed about half a mile to the E., and a little further on the villages of the same name are reached. The route to Gedid now leads W.S.W., and immediately after passing the rain village (about 100 tukls) of El Alob, the numerous sandy ridges so typical of S.E. Kordofan commence.

El Alob 5½ 21½

Galet 9 30½ The name of the wells (not visited) and hill passed about ¾ mile to the N. of the road. About ½ a mile before reaching the wells, the rain village of Salogi, consisting of about 40 tukls, is passed on the top of a hill. There were eight wells in use (February, 1901); water apparently plentiful about 12 feet below the surface.

Salogi 2½ 33

Gamas 2½ 35½ About 30 tukls. Four wells about 18 feet deep, but only giving a scanty supply of muddy water.

Um Hagar 3½ 39 Passed about 1 mile to S. of road. It is on the main road from Goz Abu Guma to Gedid, which joins in about 1 mile further on. There are four wells about 12 feet deep. Water fairly plentiful. These are the westernmost Shankhab wells.

Menauel 5 44 Rain village; 20 tukls about ¾ mile N. of track. Wells dry. Main road to Gedid (11 miles) goes direct, but if water is required, must go about 2 miles W. to Um Beiru where there are about 60 wells 15 feet deep. Water plentiful, good shade.

Um Beiru 2½ 46½

Gedid 9½ 56 Lies in a basin surrounded on three sides by low sandy ridges, on which are permanent villages. There are also several temporary encampments of Arabs who come to live near the wells in dry season. In the rains water stands in large pools in this basin, and in the dry weather there are many wells about 10 feet deep with plenty of water. It is the headquarters of the Gimma, and is a comparatively large gum centre; there are several Greek traders living here (February, 1901). Some of the best gum country in Kordofan lies westwards between here and Ageila. From here to Dar El Ahamda there are two roads, that viâ Meika being the longer; but the greatest distance without water is only 17 miles, whereas by the direct road there is no water for nearly 30 miles. Gedid is now (1904) the Head Quarters of a District.

Goz Um Tibeir 1½ 57½ The latter road runs due S. viâ Goz Um Tibeir, where are several villages watering from Gedid, after which no inhabitants are met, except perhaps a few gum pickers at Makheita, until Dar El Ahamda is reached.

Makheita 10 67½

Wad Mahmud 5 72½ There is an ‘id’ here, but the wells are dry very early in the year. This was the site of Abd El Rahim Abu Dugal’s deim, from which he raided Dar El Ahamda in the summer of 1899.

Khor Senitai 3½ 76 Said to be boundary between the Gimma and Dar El Ahamda. There is very dense kittr bush about here, though it does not interfere much with travelling.

Um Wabar 2 78 The country here becomes more open and is studded with small kurmet bushes.

Um Subagha 8½ 86½ Four wells, 20 feet deep, little water. Road from Goz Abu Guma viâ Id El Gim (9 miles) joins in here. This is the usual route to Goz Abu Guma taken by people from Tagale and Southern Kordofan.

Alternative route — — The alternative route from Gedid viâ Goz El Homara passes at first through thickish kittr bush, and then through more open country to Meika (10½ miles). The site of the Khalifa’s deim, defeat, and death (1899) lies a little to the W. of the direct road to Meika, and is reached viâ Rahad Asheishat, which contains water for some time after the rains (in March, 1901, it had still a little very foul water in it). People are said to collect here during the rains.

Rahad Asheishat 6½ 62½

Um Debreikat 2½ 65 The site of the battle is close by on the E. of the road, and the position of the deim which was alongside the road is still recognisable from the stumps of the trees cut down.

There is also a large pool on S. of road, about 150 yards by 80 yards, and there are the remains of a good deal of recent dukhn cultivation in the vicinity.

Meika 3 68 Five groups of wells used by the Gimma and a few of the Selim Baggara. Water plentiful about 12 feet down.

From here the road runs S. to Goz El Homara (4 miles), the cultivating ground of the Selim and a few of the Gimma Arabs, and thence to Id El Gim (17 miles) in Dar El Ahamda, joining the direct road from Gedid at Um Subagha (portion Goz El Homara to Id El Gim was not traversed).

Um Subagha 27 95 From here the road passes through very dense kittr bush, which impedes the rate of travelling considerably.

Mafri 7 102 A small village; water supply from Id Tefangerun.

Id Tefangerun 2½ 104½ In the Khor Ardeiba, which is said to originate in the Tagale mountains, and to flow S.E. to the Nile. In it are nearly all the wells in Dar El Ahamda, none of which however, except those of El Akaf, can be relied on to contain much water towards the end of the dry season.

The Khor Ardeiba is not, as a matter of fact, known by the same name for more than a mile or two, as it takes the name of each successive district through which it passes. It has a shallow ill-defined bed, but is traceable by the number of heglig and other green trees which grow in it.

Dura 3½ 108 The road follows the khor and passes wells at Um Desis and at Dura, a village (no well) from which J. Um Talha is visible; a track branches off southwards through very dense kadad bush, and 1¾ miles on joins another track from Gamelein (1¼ miles), which is the usual starting point for Tagale, and where there are several wells. The track then leads S.W. across a cotton soil plain thickly covered with bush, chiefly talh and kittr, to J. Um Talha, one of the Tagale group of mountains under Mek Geili Adam. It is inhabited by Nubas, and has several wells. See route No. 98.

Gamelein 1½ 109½

J. Um Talha (Tagale) 50½ 160

The distance from Gamelein to Um Talha is only very roughly estimated, and cannot be relied on.

76.—GOZ ABU GUMA to DAR EL AHAMDA.

By Captain H. H. S. Morant, March, 1901.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Goz Abu Guma — — Goz Abu Guma, properly Zeinuba, is on right bank of White Nile and is the head quarters of a District. There is a post and telegraph office and a fair suk. In good years plenty of grain can be bought here. At low Nile in order to cross to left bank, a branch of the river is crossed by a ford to two islands, thence there is a ferry to W. bank, where there are several gum depôts. The road from Dueim viâ El Alob passes here and follows the river southwards to Kaka and Kodok. A much used road also leads to Gedid viâ Um Hagàr (see Route No. 9) 20 miles, thence viâ Taiara to El Obeid.

West bank 1½ 1½

El Koru 3½ 5 The road to Dar El Ahamda leads S.W. over the usual more or less undulating and open bush covered country to El Koru; a largish village said to have wells (not seen). Soon after leaving this a road from the river coming from N.E. joins in and 3 miles further on another track branches off S.W. to Um Adda (6 miles) where there are several wells.

3½ 8½

Id Teheima 1¼ 9¾ The track followed led S. to Id Teheima, several fair wells and villages, thence down a very bare valley to Id Um Zaaf situated in the middle of a perfectly open level grassy basin, which looks as if it might be swampy in the rains. Several wells or holes; water plentiful, not more than 5 feet down.

Id Um Zaaf 6 15¾

Um Zaaf 1¼ 17 Goz Um Zaaf with a village on the top of it. Near the S. end of the goz there is another well, but with little water. A road runs from here eastwards to the river (12 miles?), and another westwards viâ Waar (8 miles) to Gedid (24 miles).

Suda 7½ 24½ Road followed runs S.W. through a good deal of kittr and gum bush to Suda, which is a small village perched on the usual Goz.

There are two lots of wells and water is comparatively plentiful. Good shade. There are several other villages near. Here the road from Um Adda, another from Um Hagàr viâ Waar, a third from Gedid viâ Um Debreikat, and a fourth from Meika unite. A path also leads S.E. to Jebelein (25 miles) viâ Andaraba (no water en route).

Um Huta 1½ 26 Continuing S. the road passes a village named Um Huta to the W. (no water), and later crosses Goz El Shubai, the highest hill in this part of the country. There is an “id” at its S.E. end, but it had no water (March, 1901).

Goz El Shubai 5 31

Here a track branches off eastwards to Goz El Homara, and about 2 miles further on another from El Homara runs eastwards to Um Gereib.

Um Sir 6 37 At Um Sir (Selim) there were several wells and plenty of water in March, 1901, but in the same month, 1902, there was said to be very little.

There were also the remains of a good deal of cultivation about.

A road leads from El Homara viâ these wells to Jebelein (about 18 miles).

Mit El Ghaneis 1 38 Small cultivation village.

Goz El Gharak 2 40 A slight elevation on which is dukhn cultivation N. of track.

Rahad Waar 3½ 43½ A large natural rain tank, dry soon after rains, but many Arabs congregate here whilst there is water.

Khor Talh 3½ 47 After passing through thick talh bush, a shallow khor, probably that known on the Gedid Um Subagha road as Senitai, is passed.

Um Fatma 3 50 A well known belt of thick kittr about a mile in width, said to be N. boundary of Dar El Ahamda.

After this is passed country is comparatively open.

Id Heidub 10 60 Several wells; water not very plentiful (March, 1901).

Id Nagi 3 63 One or two wells, but very little water (March, 1901). Splendid shade.

El Gedul 3 66 Rather large village (for these parts); water from Id Nagi.

Soon after leaving El Gedul some very dense kadad, &c., bush is entered and continues to

Mageikha 2½ 68½ A small cultivation village.

Wad El Khot 1½ 70 Small village; water from Saneit. Dense kittr bush which interferes with camels is now traversed.

Saneit 2 72 Small village residence of Sheikh Abdel Rahman Taher, head Sheikh of Dar El Ahamda. Several wells in a shallow khor; fairly good supply of water. From here a road leads S. to El Akaf (4½ miles), good wells, thence viâ Id Nemeid (wells 11½ miles) to the Nile, probably at Um Asherin, about 20 miles beyond.

Gamelein 2¼ 74¼ The road leads up the khor to Gamelein, described in Route 75, and thence to J. Tagale.

77.—GOZ ABU GUMA to EL OBEID, viâ SHERKEILA AND RAHAD.

From a Report by Captain C. H. Leveson, 18th Hussars, November, 1903.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Goz Abu Guma — — Bad landing place—easily improved; also bad watering place at this season (November) for animals; buckets necessary. No good grass close. Camel fly bad.

Menauel 24 24 Several pools; best, 50 by 30 yards. Water good.

Gedid 11 35 Good road. Several pools; water fair.

Abu Rukba 18 53 Small fula, dirty water, 3 miles W. of village, would be dry by end of November. Drinking water from wells. Close cultivated country.

Um Kueika 25 78 No water at Um Shokaba or Um Hagar, so went on to Um Kueika. Shallow fula, filthy water, more like liquid manure. Wells not much better. Thousands of water melons are grown instead.

Sherkeila 20 98 No water at Ageila. Big lake at Sherkeila—fair water; also good water from wells. Road, before reaching here, heavy going. Bad place for horses.

Um Ruaba 18 116 No Tebeldi trees, but big fula, 50 yards by 40. Country more open. Passed big village, named Gogham. 3 miles short of Um Ruaba. No water at Shamagatta, so marched viâ Rahad.

Gadadin 6 122 Big village.

Abli 6 128 No village. Half a mile off road, in thickly wooded khor, were 3 small pools, each 20 yards diameter; also another smaller pool of clean drinking water.

Um Kheiran 16 144 Road over succession of ridges of deep red sand, rendering going heavy. After passing Village Eilafun, country open. Large fula at Um Kheiran, 70 yards wide—good water.

Umbeil 3 147 Village.

Fula Um Sheikh 4 151 Large fula, 120 yards by 80, 3 feet deep. Good clear water.

Rahad Lake 11 162 Lake 3 miles long, ½ mile broad, about 3 feet deep—good water. Numbers of mosquitoes and sand flies. Big village about 2 miles from lake.

Mao 10 172 Tebeldi trees and well. Road from here onwards much obstructed by trees.

J. Ein 19 101 At foot of rocky hill is a well, said to be a spring. 60 buckets did not empty it. Forest very thick and full of deep khors about here.

J. Deigo 11 202 2 small fulas of filthy water hardly drinkable by horses.

El Obeid 9 211

78.—GEDID to EL RAHAD viâ AGEILA.

By Captain W. Lloyd, December, 1901.

This road is very swampy in the rains.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Gedid — — Two good wells. Many Gimma villages near. They are not occupied during the rains, as there is little cultivation near. Good shade. Track over cotton soil, thick bush.

Abu Rukba 17 17 Some old wells. The tomb of the Khalifa’s father is on a hill a little to the N. of the road. There are a great many tracks here. Local guide necessary.

Um Afgheim 18 35 Pool and one well. Track now leads over many sandy ridges. Between the ridges black cotton soil. Bush thick in places.

Ageila 14 49 Several wells (14) with good supply of water. The village of Sheikh Yasin Yusef head Sheikh of the Gowamas is a mile N. of wells. Good shade. Water stands here in rains and mosquitoes are very bad. (There is a road from here to Sherkeila, 12 miles). There is now less black soil, and the bush becomes less thick.

Um Ruaba 24 73 A large fula with wells. The latter are very bad. Much trouble in watering ten camels. Good shade. The village is 1½ miles to the N.

Track to Shamagatta and Taiara 12 85 [To Shamagatta 12 miles, Taiara 30 miles].

Country becomes undulating, sandy ridges, black soil between.

El Eilafun 10 95 A small place with one well, but little water.

Um Sereiha 1 96 Small village, water from El Eilafun. These two villages were once large places, now very poor. Good track.

El Rahad 22 118 Several large villages, much cultivation and small suk. Lake now full.

N.B.—Lake was dry in autumn 1902. When dry, wells are dug in bed of the lake.

79.—KAKA to opposite JEBELEIN, by Left Bank.

By Captain H. H. Wilson, March to April, 1903.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Kaka Meshra — — A good landing place at low Nile, but impossible at high. Track from here to opposite Jebel Ahmed Agha runs in N.E. direction, and lies some way from the river.

Moro 2½ 2½ Most northerly Shilluk village, part of the Kaka district. Country round here is bushy, with certain number of good trees.

Arab village ¾ 3¼ Part of the Kenana tribe, who are to be found in considerable numbers in the vicinity of Fashoda, Fama, Atara, and Kaka.

Debba Adaraba 1¾ 5 On right of track. Site of old Shilluk village.

Debba El Asal ¾ 5¾ On right of track. There is a very fair track all along here, passable all the year round, but crossing a number of shallow khors which would be a serious obstacle in the rains. After passing El Asal, the bush gives place to fine park-like land, situated on high sandy ground.

Ferik 2¼ 8 Sheep ferik of Baggara Selim Arabs, only occupied by them during dry season. The whole of the country from Kaka to Jebelein is the Selim country, over which they roam from December to May. A number of Hemeida and other Arabs from Kordofan also come and graze their flocks here.

5¼ 13¼ Small Shilluk village on what is an island in the rains; I was unable to find out the name of it, but the name of the sheikh is Angwet.

¾ 14 Track here crosses two khors which were dry in April. Forest all along here on left. Wide river foreshore with khors on right.

2½ 16½ A big khor runs into the river from the west—dry in April. Some very fine big trees about here, some of the timber being exceptionally long and straight.

Debba Duara El Sogheir 3¾ 20¼ Debba on right, high sandy ground and fine forest.

Debba Duara El Kebir 2¼ 22½ Big khor running alongside of track on right. It is impossible to get to the river anywhere in this country, except at one or two recognised places, without struggling over a wide foreshore of half-burnt tangled grass. Track crosses a khor.

1 23½

Debba Berdan 6 29½

Ferik 1¼ 30¾ Sheep ferik of Selim Baggara.

Debba 2 32¾ On left of track. Good level ground and park-like land; excellent going under foot. Owing to the track being at a considerable distance from the river, and the khors not all having water in them, it is advisable to travel about this country with a guide, as certain spots are known to the Arabs as camping grounds, where generally a large ardeb tree is to be found with water close at hand. First sight of the jebel from here.

Debba Berdan 2¼ 35 Another debba of this name. Country bushy.

Debba Aliang 3½ 38½ Track now runs generally between the forest on the left and khor on right. A wide khor all along here on the right, then a thick belt of trees between it and the river.

6½ 45

2 47 The khor here runs into the river—a considerable amount of water in it for the last 10 miles.

Meshra Meteima ⅛ 47⅛ An excellent meshra at low Nile, and not at all impossible at high. After having pushed through about 80 yards of reeds, the high sandy bank is reached and access gained to the inland track, which is excellent all the year round. Jebel Ahmed Agha opposite. River about 1,000 yards wide here. Following the ordinary track this is the first time that the river water can be obtained after leaving Kaka. Selim Baggara ferik about ½ mile inland here in bush. Track from here northwards runs through a fine forest for about 6 miles, when it debouches on to wide river foreshore.

Ferik 6⅜ 53½ Sheep ferik of Selim Arabs in bush.

Khor Nagor 2¼ 55¾ A khor is crossed here which is an obstacle to any transport except carriers all the year round, having a water channel of about 8 feet, and a depth of 5 feet, choked with grass. This khor bends round northwards and joins the river just S. of Meshra Alwat (right bank) (which is a name however but little known to the Arabs, who generally speak of it as the “Balad Selim Bangan”). The track follows this khor inland, as the “island,” or ground between it and the river, though dry in the dry season, is exceedingly bad going for animals and men, owing to cracks and rank grass.

Ferik 6½ 62¼ Track strikes the khor again. A small ferik under a well-known Selim Arab, Yasin, a little grey-headed man.

Debba Tebeldia 1½ 63¾ Track crosses the khor here. This country being practically uninhabited—and full of game—is a haunt of lions. I saw three when marching along the track all within 100 yards of each other. The Jackson’s Hartebeeste is to be obtained here also. Track now runs on left side of khor; thick forest all round.

Debba Nabagaia 4¾ 68½ High open debba left; this is the Nabagaia district. Country now changes generally to bush, with, as a rule, a belt of trees somewhere between the track and the river.

5 73½

Minadak 1½ 75 A fair meshra; opposite Alwat. Selim ferik about ¾ mile inland in bush. Just inland of the bush there extends a vast plain covered with thorn, scrub, and grass, and abounding with game.

Debba Megabr 7½ 82½ Left, and a Selim ferik just S. of it.

Ferik 3 85½ Another Selim ferik; wide khor on right of track.

1 86½ Khor close to track; big ardeb tree, and mid-day camp.

1 87½ A branch of the river is visible about 300 yards off on right. Track is now alternately sandy and good and cracked and very bad; the latter state owing to the number of shallow khors the track passes over. Country bushy.

Ardeb Aliga 12 99½ Near river bank. Good camping ground, as there is little shade to be got, except under these (to the Arabs) well-known ardeb trees.

Ardeb Matemenat 2¾ 102¼ Another big ardeb tree. Shortly after this the track descends on to the foreshore and continues thus to opposite Renk, where there is a fair meshra in the dry season only.

Renk 3¾ 106

Hasoia 4¾ 110¾ Arab encampments. Island of Hasoia here also. The track winds monotonously through interminable kittr bush, generally within reach of the river. Selim feriks thick for the next 17 miles; but as they are only temporary, and change every year, it is not worth while marking them all down.

Debba El Tor 23¼ 134 On left of track.

Um Ashrin 2½ 136½ Bush very thick here. Island of Waka (Bulli) stated to be opposite here. (This was the name given by the Arabs on this occasion, and probably differs from any other known name.)

Meshra 4½ 141 Meshra used by the Arabs during the dry season.

El Ardeb 22 163 Meshra, and Selim encampments, opposite Jebelein, bearings of the two chief peaks of which 114° and 70° respectively. This is the chief meshra of the Selim people, as it leads to their villages, which are about 15 miles inland opposite Jebelein.

Note.—The information re the track from Renk to the Jebelein is from a Report by El M. A. Said Eff. Nur El Din, Police Officer, Renk.

80.—OMDURMAN to EL SAFIA WELLS.

By Major N. M. Smyth Bey, V.C., Queen’s Bays, November and December, 1901.

Most of country between Omdurman and El Safia is so barren that the grazing grounds are very limited in area, and the population is so sparse that beaten tracks are only to be found in the vicinity of the watering places.

Most of the country is scattered with low samr bush, which, not being in leaf owing to the scarcity of rain this year, affords little shade. Dead trees afford an abundant supply of fuel. Many wells get partly filled up with drift sand, or with mud brought down by the infiltration of water, which may be quickly cleaned out. The supply at all wells is dependent on the amount of rainfall.

N.B.—As there are no well-defined tracks, and the distances have been measured off the map, they are probably all too short.—H. H. S. M.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Omdurman — — Leaving the town the route bears a little S. of W. over hard sandy soil. A little low scattered bush. Jebel Duieim Serob (?) is left to the S. Sand hills are met. Some samr bush.

Um Hei 27 27 Old wells.

Um Teital 7 34 Twenty wells in red clay, all dry. Water is found after ordinary rainfall at 15 feet, but often fails about February. Shobil wells, 30, all dry, are 3 miles to the N., and Abd El Mokeit, 20 wells, where water drains in slowly at 12 feet through red clay, are 6 miles to the N.

The country here belongs to the Walad Ogba section of the Kababish, who have much cultivation in the neighbourhood. Abd El Mokeit wells water 500 sheep daily.

The route bears due W. over undulating country.

Melh El Maagil 21½ 55½ A pool in Khor Mogaddam, 100 yards by 10 yards, lasts till January. A mile W. several similar pools exist after good rainfall. There are some salt licks a mile to the S.E.

There is now some track in the wadi bearing S.W. Sayal bush.

Bag Bag 12 67½ Pool in wadi, dry in November. The old wells fallen in. N. of them are two groups of 15 open wells, half a mile apart, in the bed of the wadi. Copious water at 15 feet.

The route now bears nearly N.W. over undulating country, little bush.

Habisa 24 91½ Id El Kebir, 50 wells of good water 15 feet deep. The other wells here are—El Khirwa, 20 wells, 15 feet deep, good water, and Neimura, 40 wells, depth 25 feet, all dry November, 1901.

Id El Gurud 5 96½ Due W. and higher up the khor is a group of 3 wells, dry. One mile W. a group of 15 wells in bed of a sandy wadi; at a depth of 15 feet copious water. This water is said to have been first discovered by Arabs finding water holes scratched in the sand after rain by the apes that exist in the neighbourhood.

There is now a slight track which bears W.N.W. as far as J. Khashm El Kelb, which is left to the N., and then bears W. and W.S.W. over broken ground.

Derota 40½ 137 Thirty wells, all dry except one. Eight feet deep on rock, bed kept open by foxes burrowing in the sand.

Three miles to the W. the Haraza-Dongola road is in the Wadi Bitit. The country is undulating and in places stony, and several wadis are crossed; general direction W.

El Safia (Um Geiti) 35 172 Um Geiti wells. The wells are situated on the E. side of a plain which is surrounded by hills. The wells are: (1) Um Geiti, depth 13 feet, good water, considered inexhaustible. Two hundred more have fallen in. Five hundred camels and oxen are watered daily. In the driest season thousands of cattle are watered here. (2) Id El Serajab, 30 wells, not in use, but only need clearing out to afford a water supply.

81.—DEBBA to EL OBEID, viâ WABRI, ELAI, SAFIA and KAGMAR.

By Mr. James Currie, April, 1903.

The route from Debba to El Obeid is little used, even during the kharif when water is comparatively plentiful. At that season a few merchants carry dates to El Obeid, perhaps carrying back gum in exchange. The portion of the route from Debba to Safia is subject to variations according to the whim of the guide employed, as well as the season of the year. Some prefer the route Um Belila—El Amri—Hobagi—Haraza without going to Safia, whilst others during the dry season travel viâ Wabri, Inderab, Gumr, Gambar, Habisa, Bagbag, and Kagmar.

The track described below was plainly marked throughout, but, owing to scarcity of water, would be difficult, at any rate during the driest season, for a party of over twenty-five camels. Shade and firewood are plentiful throughout.

In the following report the only places where there was any water on the road are mentioned.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Debba — — Left Debba at 6 p.m.; country desert with a good deal of mimosa; went about 11 miles and stopped at Bir Kufra, no water but guides stated it existed not far from surface.

Bir Kufra (1) 11 11

Bir Kufra (2) 10 21 Continued due S. at 6 a.m.; mimosa ceased, softish sand and sand hills, stopped at 10 a.m., at another old well, Bir Kufra (2), but guides state water non-existent at any depth. Resumed at 4 p.m. and entered big khor running N., Bir Gelud Abid. Many trees and dry grass. Off at 6 a.m. Entered Khor Magakha and went on for 4 hours; arrived at Bir Abu Sayal, three old water holes, no water (April, 1903), stopped there at 10 a.m.; resumed at 4 p.m., passing on E. of path Bir Gelud, another old empty water hole. J. Abu Heglig here appears on E. of path. Stopped at 8.30 p.m. Off at 4.30 a.m.; arrived at Wabri 9.30 a.m. Country for 4 or 5 miles before Wabri very stony and barren; three-stone-lined wells and abundance of water and grazing. A certain number of Hawawir Arabs watering their flocks, and a few camels.

Wabri 53 74

Bir Kernak 13 87 Off at 5.10 a.m. for Bir Kernak. This well is a bit E. of direct road to Elai. Arrived at 10.10 a.m. Two stone-lined wells about 12 feet deep with abundance of water.

Hassanai 10 97 Off at 4.30 p.m. in a south-westerly direction; rode for 3½ hours up Wadi Kernak and arrived at Hassanai, where there are a few Arab families. There is a hofra here, where a little water is to be found, but all camels are watered at Elai or Kernak.

Elai 13 110 Left Hassanai 5.30 a.m. and rode up Wadi Hassanai, crossed over rocky pass and arrived at Elai at 10.10 a.m. Two stone-lined wells (several disused ones) about 12 feet deep, but contain little water and take 5 hours to fill, about 4 feet in diameter, and want cleaning out very badly.

Stayed at Elai during morning. A long business watering my camels. Left at 2.30 p.m. for Safia, went on till 7 p.m. Three small hills to E. of track chief land-mark. Gazelle here very numerous.

Khor Hobagi — — Off at 2.30 a.m., halted at 8.30 a.m. W. of J. Mutmir. Went on 4 hours in evening due S. Off at 5.30 a.m., entered Khor Hobagi about 7 a.m. through a very rough agaba. About 9 a.m. passed a hofra which contains water during rains. This is the so-called well of Hobagi; halted 10.15 a.m.

Country very much dried up and very little grazing. Went on in afternoon from 3 p.m. till 8.30 p.m.

Safia 85 195 Off at 2 a.m.; reached Safia at 12 noon. Abundant supply of water from many wells. Numerous ril or addra gazelle, also tracks of wild sheep. Country rocky, much shut in and heat excessive. Much the hardest part of journey.

Stayed at Safia all day, 30 to 40 wells, but not a great deal of water in each. Water about 20 feet from surface. Many Kababish Arabs and a considerable number of camels, cattle and sheep; gazelle very numerous.

Off at 5.30 p.m. for Kagmar, viâ, Haraza hills, where I was told there was water; went S.E. and stopped for night at 7.30 p.m.

J. Haraza — — Off at 4.30 a.m. and arrived at J. Haraza at 8.30 a.m. Road very bad. To get to these hills one digresses some 15 miles from direct road to Kagmar, and strikes the range of hills about the middle. There are two wells, but one, Bir Shungul, is high up among the hills and is reached by a very rough track. The second is Bir Sani, 150 feet deep. I think the digression to these wells was a mistake, and would recommend the direct road.[29]

Bir Sani — —

This range of hills is inhabited by Nubas, of whom there are said to be some 250. There is certain amount of cultivation.

Travelled 5.7 in the evening.

Travelled towards Kagmar all day, passing J. Hadid on W. of path, and towards evening catching sight of J. Atshan on the E.

Kagmar 81 276 Arrived at Kagmar in the evening, having passed on E. of track J. Atshan and J. Royan.

Water plentiful from here to El Obeid, vide Routes 71 and 83.

Bara 48 324

El Obeid 38 362

82.—SHEGEIG to EL SHOWA, viâ KAGMAR.

By Captain W. Lloyd, November, 1902.

This route is at present but little used, though there is a well-defined track throughout. It forms part of the old road to Darfur and is now used by merchants going to Nahud. From El Showa they go to Um Shidera, and thence, having watered their camels, to Shallota and Nahud.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Shegeig — — Leaving Zerga wells (where there is a large fula in the rains), the track is at first hard to pick up owing to the numerous cattle tracks about. Going nearly due W., Fula Naima is first seen and then Fula Bereinku, 5 miles from Zerga wells. The track then goes along a level ridge to the northern shoulder of J. Derish. Good going, plenty of shade and grazing.

Fula Um Sunta 31 31 A small pool on the N. side of the road. Crossing the ridge, the ground becomes gravelly and in places stony, for next 6 miles. Kittr bush and a few meika trees then appear and shade becomes rare. The road crosses Wadi El Kigeira and Wadi El Luggud, both of which are swampy in the rains; several salt workings are passed.

F. Shershar 20 51 A small pool. Sayal bush now commences and is thick in places to near Um Sayala, when the track becomes difficult to follow.

Um Sayala 7½ 58½ A small Jaalin village with one excellent well ½ mile S. Good shade near village. Leaving the village there are two tracks, one to Um Heimeira, one to Id Sabil. The latter is the shorter.

Id Sabil 8 66½ An excellent well 120 feet deep, belonging to Sheikh Abd El Nebi Masud, a Baghdadi. Two hundred yards N. of the well is a clump of dom palms which form a good land mark.

The whole way to Kajmar from here there is little or no shade. The soil is red sand with plenty of grass and marakh bush.

Old Um Sayala 5 71½ Now in ruins. From here there is a track going S.W. to J. Maganus.

Fadlia 6½ 78 A small Walad Dagoi village, one good well. From here there are roads to Abu Tabr and J. Maganus. Leaving the well, there is at first no track, but J. Atmur is seen in front.

J. Atmur 6 84 A small quartz rock with fula and good shade on the S. side. Good track.

Um Guerfa (Hella El Sheikh) 15 99 A large village with two excellent wells, 95 feet deep, at which several hundred sheep and goats water daily; there are several small hellas near. Leaving the main hella, a good well is passed 1 mile on, and another 2 miles beyond.

Harais Well 5½ 104½ A good well belonging to the Zaghawa village 1 mile N. of road. From here J. Gahania is seen due W. The direct road crosses the col between the two most northerly hills.

Gahania 8½ 113 A Zaghawa village on the N. side of jebel. The wells (one sweet, remainder salt) are 1 mile S. of the jebel. Thence to J. Kagmar there are many heglig trees, but all grass is eaten down soon after the rains by the large herds watered.

Kagmar 6 119 A Zaghawa village. The wells are on the S. side of the jebel at the bottom of Wadi El Sigai. Plenty of good shade and grazing in the wadi. Leaving the wells, the track goes over a bare plain for 4 miles. The country then becomes undulating for 5 miles. Steep soft sandy hills. Marakh on the hills, sayal in the bottoms. Bad going. The remainder of the road to Shershar is over nearly level country. Bush thick in places.

Shershar Wells 16 135 The wells, 40 feet deep, are excellent, with good shade and grazing. The villages are to the W. Leaving the wells, the road passes three villages and many salt wells, and then trends S.W. through slightly undulating country, little shade, heavy going.

Um Hashim Bakhit 10 145 Two small Ferharana villages with two wells 130 feet deep. Much cultivation. Passing a hella called Rubshan, much sayal bush is seen.

Wad Medina 6 151 A large village, Sheikh Mohammed Wad Medina, four good wells and much cultivation.

Um Hashim Simaui 7 158 Good track, over level country. At this village there is a good well. Sheikh Timsa Simaui, a Hababin Arab. The track continues in a south-westerly direction to

El Showa 10½ 168½ Two villages with a very good well. From there there are roads, W. to El Gleit or Um Shidera and S. to El Obeid. The bush in the vicinity consists of marakh and sayal. Plenty of grazing.

83.—BARA to KAGMAR.

By Captain W. Lloyd, March, 1900; with Additions in December, 1903.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Bara — — Road at first through much ushur bush N. by E. Slightly undulating country; good track.

El Hadid 15 15 One good well, 60 feet, and small Faharana village. Track crosses several ridges until a large well-defined one is crossed called El Khran, then along the base. Marakh and nabbag bush; little shade.

J. Homra 23 38 Small jebel; on S.W. side there is a small Dar Hamid village, and two wells 10 feet deep; good water. Track passes E. of jebel. Open country; little shade.

J. Filleiha 6 44 Low rock jebel, sand much piled up on N. side. On S. side, a Dar Hamid village and well 10 feet deep. Many old wells. Dom palms and castor oil plants. Good shade. Track passes to E. of jebel in Wadi El Sigai, between low ridges. J. Kagmar seen in front; good track. Some shade and good grazing.

Kagmar 7½ 51½ Small Zaghawa village. Many wells 10 to 20 feet deep; water practically unlimited. Many Kababish camps near, and hundreds of camels water daily. Good grazing in the wadi, none elsewhere. Onions procurable from garden near wells. Much cultivation.

84.—EL OBEID to FOGA, viâ MASRUB.

By Captain W. Lloyd, October, 1900.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Obeid — — The road leaves the town in a north-westerly direction over sandy ground. On reaching the high ground, J. Meitan and J. Abu Sinun are seen in line. Track good, bush not very thick. A few bad places in the rains.

The road leads to the S. end of

J. Abu Sinun 22 22 J. Abu Sinun. Here there are two fulas, both about 100 yards by 50 yards, but shallow and will soon be dry. There is a deep crack on the S. side of the jebel in a rock, known to the arabs, which now contains a good deal of water, buckets and ropes are required. There is now no track. Thick bush. J. Um Shidera can be seen to the N.W. from the high ground S. of the jebel.

Hella Shiheita 15½ 37½ A small Baza hella; no well. There is now a good track.

Hella Ushut 3 40½ A small Nimr hella; no wells; track good.

Um Shidera 10½ 51 The wells are in a hollow S.W. of the jebel, eight good wells open, 30 feet deep, plenty of water, many old wells. The hella is ¾ mile N.W. People belong to Dar Hamid. The track now turns nearly N.N.W.

El Gleit 13½ 64½ A small hella, Dar Hamid. The wells are in a hollow ¾ mile N., at the base of the jebel. Ten wells open, 25 feet deep; good water, but not very plentiful; many old ones about. There is a road from here to El Sheg. The track now goes N. and N. by W. for 11 miles, and then W. over hard red sand.

Masrub 15 79½ A small hella, Dar Hamid, just built.

Masrub Wells 4½ 84 The track goes N. to the wells; two good wells, 5 feet in diameter, 30 feet deep; eight old ones near.

There is now no track. March N.W. for 6 miles, and then W. through level country, with little bush over red sandy soil. At the 14th mile a ridge (running N. and S.) 50 or 60 feet high is ascended. There is now a good track (J. Um Hashas is N.N.E.) over undulating ground. Two miles beyond the ridge the road turns S.W.

J. Idris 35 119 A hill 100 feet high; 1½ miles from N. to S., the track goes over the col between two peaks.

Bur Islam 15½ 134½ Eight fulas 20 to 30 yards in diameter, and 4 or 5 feet deep; water reported to last three months, then wells are dug a few feet deep, but water never lasts until the rains. Several Hamar hellas near. Bur Islam is a low lying place, swampy in the rains. “Bur” means uncultivated.

There is no track, the direction is nearly W. and W.S.W., through bush for 31 miles, when a good track is struck.

Um Sayala 35 169½ A small Hamar village; no well; tebeldi trees. People get water from near J. Bishara Taib. Good track N.W., past a fula now nearly dry, 100 yards by 80 yards. There are many old wells.

J. Bishara Taib 4 173½ The track goes over a col, N. of the highest peak, through some old stone walls, said to have been Fung fortifications. Good track.

Hella Ibrahim 1½ 175 Small Hamar hella, water from Foga. Good track.

Foga 1½ 176½ Foga wells; these wells consist really of a series of fulas, 30 to 40 feet in diameter; there are over 30 in a depression. When the water gives out the people dig wells in the bottom, and these supply water for the rest of the year.

The only ruins of the old town I could find, were two small houses said to have been the telegraph office and magazine. The old telegraph line cannot be traced. Vide R.’s 85 and 87.

N.B.—The whole of this road is said to be passable to camels in the rains, but there would probably be a good deal of difficulty 8 miles from El Obeid, near Abu Sinun, and near Bur Islam.

85.—EL OBEID to FOGA viâ UM SHEMMA, GLEIT, MASRUB AND GURADI.

By Captain B. C. Carter, Lancashire Fusiliers, March, 1902.

This route is longer than Route 84, but there is more water.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

El Obeid — — The track is difficult to pick up in leaving El Obeid, but fairly good afterwards. Country slightly rolling and open. Soil light sand, and good going. Grazing good. Fairly grassed. At Um Shemma three wells, broken; 100 to 120 feet deep. Seem to water a good many cattle. Wells 3 miles beyond village.

Um Shemma 32 32

El Sheg or Gebir 19 51 No track at first over rolling country, fairly open. Marakh bushes and talh. Seven miles from wells, a broad track is cut running to El Sheg or Gebir. Two or three scattered villages with cultivation. Good water supply from the wells 160 feet deep. Seem to water a lot of goats and sheep.

El Gleit 17 68 I believe there is a good track all the way to El Gleit[30], but my guide lost his way. Country dips down and becomes rather close thornbush to within about 6 miles of El Gleit, when it opens again. Scattered villages and cultivation. Many wells in a khor, some salt. Water supply permanent but scanty; should water twenty camels. Good view of surrounding country from the jebel which seems to be called Angag or Gleit.

Masrub Wells 18 86 Broad track to Masrub through open country, little grass, talh, hashab and heglig; two small villages. Wells in khor, three in number, 11 feet. Water supply scanty. It took 3 hours to water nine camels. No grazing this year. From here there is no water till Guradi.

Guradi or Abu Agaga 47 133 No track. First point is J. Um Has Has. Rolling open country. A lot of heglig trees near the jebel. J. Katul and Kaja visible all the way. Passing Wadi Melowa the country rises gently. Two paths are crossed. The first comes from J. Subari where the people get salt. The second goes from Katul to Nahud. No water save in tebeldi trees from Um Has Has, J. Selatia. From this ridge the two small jebels of Guradi, behind which lie the wells are visible. Below the ridge is a shallow depression about 2 miles across which becomes a fula in the rains and should hold a lot of water. Country all much the same open and rolling in parts. Light sandy soil. About a dozen wells lie close together 20 feet deep. Water comes slowly. Might water a company of Camel Corps if wells were seized over night, but ordinarily not more than 15 or 20 camels. Grazing poor. Tracks lead to Kaja and Hofra. Latter village has no water. Bir Soderi water plentiful.

Foga 70 203 From Guradi to Foga no water. Country rolling open steppe. Very heavy going for about 8 miles before reaching track between Hofra and Foga. This line is evidently shorter and better than the old road. No track at first but steering easy as J. Nagut is always visible. Track when reached is broad and well worn. From J. Sheikh El Rifa going becomes much easier, nearly all shok is avoided by this route. At Foga many wells, but water scarce after January. Vide R.’s 84 and 87.

86.—ABU AGAGA to BARA.

By Captain J. R. O’Connell, January, 1902.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Abu Agaga — — Marching due E., after 6 miles, pass J. Selatia. No track, bare plain; then march a little E. of S. on J. Um Has Has.

J. Um Has Has 27 27 After passing the jebel, turn due S. through thick bush.

Masrub 14 41 A small village. Two wells, 20 feet deep, good water. Ten and a half hours from Abu Agaga. Leaving Masrub and marching due E., after 15 miles, one passes south of Jebel Muaiga to

Megeinis 24 65 Megeinis, a village. No water, people use melons instead. About 1½ miles north of the village are two small hills. Five and a half hours from Masrub; no track.

Leaving a track leads due E. through thick bush.

Um Daioka 15 80 A village of Arafia Arabs. Wells 1 mile N. of village called Lowai; 100 feet deep, plenty of water, but not good. Three and a half hours from Megeinis. Track now goes N.E.

Rubshan 9 89 Village. Water good. Track turns S.E. through thick bush.

Marra 8 97 Village of Arafia Arabs. Shiekh, Ahmed Omar. Water not good. Track goes N.E.

Khar Tauil 11 108 Good water in plenty near surface: gardens, old fig and lime trees; a few vines. A few Danagla live here. Six and a half hours from Um Daioka.

Bara 10 118 A broad track goes due E. over high ridges of red sand to Bara. No trees. Two and a half hours from Khor Tauil.

87.—FOGA to KAJA (BIR SODERI).

By Colonel B. Mahon, C.B., D.S.O., December, 1901.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Foga — — There are no people actually living on the site of the old Mamuria, but there are several Hamar hellas close by. Foga is a good military position as there are several small sand hills which command the surrounding country, which used to be open, but is now more or less covered with bush of recent growth. There are the remains of hundreds of old wells which can be opened with a little labour, and water got at from 50 feet to 90 feet. People say that in the old days water was obtained close to the surface, but that is not so now; I fancy it was rain-water. In the dry weather the people from Kaja Serrug (14 miles) get water from Foga. The old road between Foga and Kaja is quite “dead,” but there is a good road between Kaja Serrug and Kaja.

J. Abu Dugeia 16 16 From Foga you travel N.N.E. about 16 miles with no track until you strike the road from Kaja Serrug, near J. Abu Dugeia. This is all through undulating sandy country covered with bush; very good grazing ground for camels.

J. Esmein 4 20 A small rocky hill on right of track, after this road dips into valley; soil clay, ground flat, thick bush.

8 28 Small rocky range of hills on left of road runs parallel with it for 2 miles; country fairly open and undulating.

Khor Neilut Um Kasus 5 33 After this, country becomes more open and intersected with small khors which are thickly wooded; ground sandy and a good lot of stones and rock.

Khor Gelti 11 44 Rather broken ground; road good, thick bush; direction changes here E.N.E.

Um Gelti 4 48 This is a well, 80 feet deep, sunk in bottom of dry basin, very little water and bad.

2 50 Here the bush country ceases and track leads E.N.E. and E. over sand dunes, very heavy for camels; very few trees or shade, but lots of grazing, until J. Bakalai is reached.

J. Bakalai 21 71 The road passes N. side of J. Bakalai and runs nearly E. to Kuku. Um Abu Agaga is 6 miles S.S.W. of J. Bakalai—a very indistinct track leading to it—but it can be recognised by groups of small hills (rocks): well is near the furthest one. This is a good well and has water all the year, but would not water more than nine camels at a time.

Kuku 19 90 Kuku is a village (two villages) of blacks on the northern side of J. Kuku. These people have a lot of land under cultivation, but this year all their crops failed. They have no wells but a good supply of water in tanks on the mountains. These tanks are more or less natural but have been widened and improved by manual labour, and very large rocks must have been removed at some time to make them; the people now know nothing about how they were originally made or have they any tools to do like work now. All the Kaja district is covered with the remains of old villages: it must have been at one time very thickly populated.

Kaja Soderi 7 97 Is 7 miles off to the E.; road runs along N. side of mountains for 4 miles, then crosses, and the wells are on the S. side. Here there is a plentiful supply of water: wells from 18 feet to 30 feet. During the kharif there is a large lake here and the wells are sunk annually in its bed.

The whole country between Foga and Kaja is very suitable for camels and the Arabs graze thousands there during the rainy season and until the fulas dry up.

88.—NAHUD to EL FASHER.

As far as Dam Jamad by Captain B. C. Carter, thence from Native Sources.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Nahud — — See routes 19 and 30. Nahud is about 310 miles from El Dueim.

Wad Bokhari 2 2 Large Gowama village. Wide track, sandy soil. No thick bush.

Wad Shukab 6 8 Small Hamar village. Water from Nahud and melons.

Daglos 10 18 Small Hamar village. A few tebeldis.

Baruda 4½ 22½ Ditto.

Track now crosses several sandy ridges.

Wad Banda 14½ 37 Large Hamar village. Many tebeldi trees. People sell water to travellers. The price varies from 10 burmas for 1 piastre to 10 piastres for 1 burma (burma equals a large stable bucket). In some places the track now becomes heavy owing to soft sand.

Sheraya 10 47 ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ All small places. Here the sand hills open out at intervals into circular flats which are cultivated. The people go to Um Shanga when the water supply from the melons and tebeldis is exhausted. Country fairly open and going good.

Um Karra 4½ 51½

Daira 2½ 54

Hagera 1 55

Kajana 2 57

Dam Jamad 16 73 Small Hamar hella on the frontier. There are 3 other hellas near. Water from tebeldis.

Darfur is now entered.

El Ogud 24 97 Three wells about 100 feet deep; water plentiful. Inhabitants are Fors.

Jebel El Hella 10 107 Two wells nearly 200 feet deep; water plentiful. A detachment of three companies of Ali Dinar’s army is quartered here.

A road from Omdurman viâ Kaja joins here.

Burush 13 120 Small Berti village. Four wells about 100 feet deep; plenty of water.

Um Kadada 15 135 One large well about 110 feet deep, or more, but 20 feet of water at the bottom. This depth of water is said to be constant.

Abiad 25 160 A Geleidat village. Four wells about 90 feet deep; water plentiful.

Ergud 30 190 Many wells, water plentiful.

Fashar 30 220 Two wells 150 feet deep; water plentiful in rainy season.

El Fasher 16 236 Capital of Darfur, see Vol. I, p. 192.

By road and river, therefore, El Fasher is about 670 miles from Khartoum. Between El Obeid and El Ogud, the first wells in Darfur, water is very scarce in the dry season.

89.—NAHUD to BUR ISLAM.

By Captain C. H. Townsend, 18th to 25th December, 1901.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Nahud — — The track leaves Nahud in a northerly direction, very soon turning N.N.E. The country is fairly wooded and flat, and covered with long grass in most places.

Abu Marega 12½ 12½ Road still running N.N.E., passes through this village. It is inhabited by the Hamar tribe and is fair sized. Water from tebeldis but the supply is limited, melons fairly plentiful.

Ahmed Hamdan 29½ 42 Leaving Abu Marega the track winds about, but its general direction is N.N.E. by N. Country rather undulating and fairly wooded. About 4 miles before reaching Ahmed Hamdan, one leaves the main track, which runs N.E. to Homedo, and branches off N.E., passing through wooded and undulating country.

Ahmed Hamdan is a small Hamar village belonging to Ahmed Salam, the Sheikh being Wad Hamdan. Water from tebeldis, which are few in number; good supply of small melons.

Wad Kitna 6 48 From Ahmed Hamdan track runs N.W., country hilly and wooded. Wad Kitna, a very small Hamar village belonging to Ahmed Salam. From here Jebel Um Rarib is about 12 miles W.

(Returning I did not touch at this place or Ahmed Hamdan, as they are off the main road.)

Homedo 3 51 Between Wad Kitna and this the track gradually works round N. again and joins the main track close to this village. The Country is wooded but less hilly. Homedo is a small village of Hamar people. Water from tebeldis, supply scanty.

Id? 2 53 Track runs N. slightly E., and is well defined. This is a small Hamar village.

Wad Bakhit 17 70 Road runs N. slightly E., through fairly wooded and slightly undulating country, passing two small Hamar villages, Mekin and Wad El Beleb, both Hamar, belonging to Abdel Rahim Bey Abu Dagal, to Wad Bakhit, a fair-sized Hamar village under Sheikh Ibrahim Ahmed, and belonging to Abu Dagal. There is a very good supply of tebeldi water here.

Bur Islam 19 89 Path runs N.N.E., country wooded and undulating, 4 miles from Wad Bakhit one passes a small Hamar village, Adam Ahmed, belonging to Abu Dugal to whom Bur Islam also belongs, the Sheikh at the latter place being Ahmed El Kagauri. From here Kaja is 1½ days N. There are wells close to this village, but the supply of water is limited, owing to the bottom of the wells being rocky, and there are no implements to cut through it.

90.—NAHUD to FOGA.

By Captain W. Lloyd, October, 1900; and Major E. B. Wilkinson, December, 1901.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Nahud — — The whole of the road runs through the Hamar country.

Bokari 4 4 Leaving the suk in a north-westerly direction the track runs through the Gowama village named Bokari.

Jebel El Kurma 4¼ 8¼ Two hills W. of track; to the E. of the northernmost hill is the village of Shekaba, 80 huts.

Hella Wad Munfarih 2½ 10¾ A small Hamar village, 30 to 40 huts. Track continues in same direction till the Hamar village of Darglos is reached. The country between Nahud and this village is open bush with some good trees for timber, but most of the bush consists of gnarled and twisted ebony bushes of no value. From here track trends more to W. till village Bakoda is reached. Range of hills, Jebel Barshom, to N.N.E. of latter village.

Darglos 6¾ 17½

Bakoda 6½ 24

El Gubba 10½ 34½ Track now runs N. to Hella El Gubba with Jebel Selako to E., and on to

Kinneir 2¼ 36¾ Hella Kinneir, 10 huts.

Gemania 1½ 38¼ Hella Gemania, 20 huts.

Abu Rasein 3 41¼ Hella Abu Rasein, 5 huts.

Hamdan Tumbel 5½ 46½ Track runs N.N.E. to Hella Hamdan Tumbel, 12 huts.

Gabra 7 53½ Track runs N. to Hella Gabra (no wells exist), and Hella Zarzur, when track runs N.W. until Hella Um Bel is reached. J. Biraish to W. Two wells giving a fair amount of water, and many hellas draw their supply from here.

Zarzur 2½ 56

Um Bel 4½ 60½

J. Um Bel 1½ 62

Galusa — — Track now runs N. to Hella Galusa, 20 huts, and then on to

Foga 7¼ 69¼ Foga. See route 87.

All villages between Nahud and Hamdan Tumbel procure their water from tebeldi trees. At Gabra and Zarzur water is procured from Um Bel. There is a certain amount of dukhn and melon cultivation near each village, but no other supplies excepting a few chickens.

No water between Nahud and Foga for any party marching, and not more than ten camels could be watered at Um Bel without depriving the inhabitants of their daily supply. This year (1901) owing to the drought there is no crop of water melons.

Country generally undulating and covered thick bush. Good track.

91.—FOGA to UM BADR.

By Major E. B. Wilkinson, December, 1901.

Foga.—¾ mile S.W. of the hill, now turned into a defensive post, are the wells. There are at present (1901) nine wells giving water, and the Arabs of the Hamar and Kaja tribes are opening more. I have taken accurate measurements of depths of wells, and the depth varies from 50 to 80 feet below the surface. Water is only found in very small quantities at present, no well being able to water more than 30 camels per diem.

In the rains the Arabs dig, and have dug for many years, shallow hollows which fill up and last them through the winter sufficient to water their flocks; but this year, owing to very scanty rainfall, these hollows are all dry.[31]

There are many villages in the neighbourhood, consisting of ten to fifty huts. Dukhn is cultivated, and the Hamar Arabs also keep many ostriches, which at this time of year are all plucked quite bare. The feathers are taken to Nahud, where there is a good market for them.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Foga — — Leaving Foga, track bears N. to Hella Wad Guibara, consisting of about thirty huts (Hamar Arabs), and then track bears N.W. through bush on Jebel El Rimr. Good going through country falling for 3½ miles, when a khor is crossed; direction of drainage, N.E.

Wad Guibara 1½ 1½

Jebel El Rimr 5½ 7 Jebel El Rimr is reached; this is a range of hills running from S.W. to N.E.

Um Goz 6 13½ Track still continues through bush N.W. to Hella Um Goz, which consisted of a village of not more than fifteen huts, but which has recently been burnt by the Furs sent by Sultan Ali Dinar to punish the inhabitants, who are Kajawis. From here an excellent view of the country can be obtained for many miles.

Jebel Zeinat Rowaina 1½ 15 Leaving Hella Um Goz, the track leads on to Jebel Zeinat Rowaina, but at 1½ miles I went through the bush. No track on Jebel Taradid, over country which is intersected with many small water channels (now all dry), but which in the rains would be impassable for animals. Surface, cotton soil with rank dry grass. Flow of water, N.N.E.

Jebel Taradid 7 22 Jebel Taradid, track runs N. through very broken country, ranges of low hills to W. and E. for miles.

Khor Dormaia 4 26 Khor Dormaia of the Kajawis, and the Wadi Melh of the Kababish and Hamar Arabs, I believe, but none of the local Arabs know the name Wadi Melh, and informed me it was far to the N. This khor, 30 to 35 yards broad, takes its course from N.W. in the vicinity of J. El Ain, where there was water (December 4) in khor. There are signs of a big flood coming down in the rains (banks well wooded); current I should say very rapid, and at times impassable, flows N.E., passes J. Habisa, and then bears N.

J. El Sad 3½ 29½ From this point track runs N.N.E. over undulating country, and at 3½ miles J. El Sad is passed, small watercourse passed, and from here track runs N.E.

2 31½

Wadi (?) 4 35½ At this point a large wadi is entered bearing S.W., and the track leads down this N.E to

Um Badr 2½ 38 Um Badr, which consists of a broad wadi varying in breadth up to 800 yards, which is enclosed on either side by hills, and along the bed of which many hundreds of wells and waterholes have been dug in former times. Wells all filled in by rains; three wells were opened and 20 feet down no water obtained, and no sign of water visible.

In years when rain is plentiful, I was informed by Arabs, water is always obtainable at this depth. Appears to be an excellent place for camels.

No sign of recent habitation; but on ridges N.E. are the remains of the scene of the fight between Dervishes and the Kababish belonging to Sheikh Saleh Gelta Kabashi in 1887.

No signs of any caravans having passed recently, and I am informed that none ever do come here owing to there being no water.

92.—BARA to FOGA.

By Captain J. R. O’Connell, July, 1902.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Bara — — Leaving Bara the track goes due W. over high sandy ridges; heavy going to a small village Kidaka, one well.

Kidaka 11 11 The track turns a little to the N. of W., and passing through thick thorny bush leads by a small village, Um Asal, one well. Ten miles further on is Maagla village called Saata. Wells 112 feet deep, good water, a good deal of cultivation.

Um Asal 4 15

El Saata 10 25

Shireiga 10 35 A good level track passing through thick bush leading N. of W., after 10 miles reaches the village of Shireiga (Habbania), one well. Two miles due W. is a small village called El Shegel Gedidat, one well, a good deal of cultivation. The track leads N. of W. for 7 miles through thick gum forest, then ends; one now passes between three hills called Gedidat, two on the south and one on the north, through high grass for 8 miles, then meeting the track going from Shireiga to Geleit, and 11 miles on reaches village of Geleit, near the hill, many wells, little water.

El Shegel Gedidat 2 37

El Geleit 22 59

Masrub 17 76 A good track leads N.W. over open country to Masrub, little water.

Gilgil 10 86 A good track leads to Gilgil, a small village; very little water, not drinkable.

Baraeis 10 96 Due N., no track, to village of Baraeis, no water. Marching S. of W., no track, and passing south of and close to Jebel Asal and over a rolling plain, bad going. Meika, goffal, and heglig trees scattered over the plain. After 40 miles reach Hofra. There are three Nuba villages on the mountain, one about the centre, and two on the southern end; no wells, water bad from pools on north end of hill, no rain this year, people living on meika berries, which they grind and use in lieu of grain. Village is on top of mountain. Leaving Hofra and going due W. struck track near a rock called Mekareik Abu Gadein, 10 miles out, and after another 10 miles passed close to a rock called Sheikh El Rifa. Three miles further on the track turns due S., and after 4 miles reaches Jebel Umfara, and 6 miles further on reaches mountains called Gerawid El Askanut, said to be half way to Foga. Track now turns S. for 10 miles, past Jebel Kanisa on the west and small hills to the east called Ratak, and passes 2 miles on through the hills of Umkosh, and 17 miles on comes to village of Mina in Jebel Bishara Taib, and 3 miles on are the wells and camp; little water and not good. Foga is a district. Vide Route 87.

Hofra 40 136

Foga 65 201

93.—NAHUD to EL EDDAIYA and MUGLAD.

By Colonel B. Mahon, C.B., D.S.O., December, 1901.

N.B.—Distances approximate.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Nahud — — The country round Nahud is sandy and undulating; about 5 miles all round is cleared for cultivation. There are many tebeldi trees which are used for water tanks. There is a very good supply of well water, wells from 30 to 60 feet deep. Population about 3,500, chiefly Hamar Arabs. Vide also later reports.

Hella El Sau 5 5 Hamar village (Hamed Bey Fetin), no wells, but good supply of tebeldi trees. Track is very well defined, being the main road to Shakka, &c., country undulating, heavy going for camels, bush thick.

Hella El Garaui 4 9 Hamar (Hamed Bey Fetin), no wells.

Hella Um Hashaba 3 12 Hamar (Abu Dagal) no wells, but tebeldi trees and water melons.

There are no more villages before El Eddaiya, bush thick, chiefly ebony, bad shade, track good, but heavy going for camels and slightly undulating.

Fula 25 37 There is a large fula here, but it was dry at the beginning of November, very good shade; is a good halting place.

10 47 A broad shallow khor or valley, good shade and some tebeldi trees; after this you cross an open plateau into El Eddaiya, there is good grazing on this plateau and nice shade, a capital camping ground.

El Eddaiya 5 52 Is a large village or collection of hellas, and has a mixed population, Homr (Felaita), Hamar (Abu Dagal), Bederia and Messeria, besides many small merchants (Jaalin, &c.). It is the starting point for merchants for Bahr El Arab, Dar Jange, Dar Fertit and Shakka.

Camels are very little used S. of this.

Water very plentiful and good wells from 8 to 30 feet deep; there are remains of many old gardens, and even now they cultivate onions and other vegetables.

There is a small Government post held by fifty Bashibazuks.

Khor Atrun 3½ 55½ Very good shade, no water but after kharif (rainy season) many fulas. The track is undulating and sandy, but broad and well defined.

Abu Asha and Walad El Seluk 4 59½ Both Bederia hellas, no wells, but tebeldi trees and water melons.

Mumu 7½ 67 This is a district; many hellas, Homr (Felaita), Sheikh Hamed Yassin, several fulas but all dry by middle of November. No wells, some tebeldi trees, much cultivation. After the harvest is gathered and when the water in tebeldi trees is exhausted, the people move near to El Eddaiya. There are no hellas between here and Muglad, it is more or less forest.

6 73 At this point the road branches; the main road goes on to Shakka, but take left-hand one S.S.E. to Um Hagar if you want water.

Um Hagar 8 81 There are here a succession of rocky basins. All had some water, the one furthest S. after the rains must have been a considerable lake, and some years contains water during the whole year, but, I think, will be dry by end of December this year.

1 82

1½ 83½ The track, now very indistinct, runs W.S.W. for 1½ miles, until it rejoins main road which we left at mile 73. Country continues the same until about the 86th mile, when it becomes flat and clay soil; track good and hard going, but all forest.

Um Sidr 14½ 98 Large fula. Road branches at Um Sidr; main road to Shakka S.S.W. is much best and shorter, I took the one to Um Battu, but returned by main road. Gullum now becomes common.

Um Battu 8 106 Three small wells in dry bed of fula, 8 feet deep. These wells could easily be improved, but are not now to be depended on after 15th December. This, like all the following places, was once a village. Country all bush and very little shade except at these fulas, where there are splendid ardeib trees.

Um Gamadi 15 121 A dry fula and was an old village.

Um Gamadi 3 124 Also called Um Gamadi.

Um Kantor 6 130 Dry fula, there was an old village here at some time.

Um Gedir 11½ 141½ Dry fula; very fine ardeib trees here.

Um Malis 4½ 146 Dry fula, same as above.

Khor El Heggis 2 148 Northern boundary of Muglad district; very small khor, but thickly wooded.

1 149 Road branches, take right-hand one S.S.W., the other (main track) S.S.E. is one of the many tracks to the Bahr El Arab.

Um Shanga 1 150 There is water here in khor and some tebeldi trees (but not filled with water), but this year water would be dry by end of December.

3½ 153½ No track for 3½ miles W. through very bushy country, then strike path N.N.W. to Hella Ereiga. From here you strike a well-defined path to Moghrabi.

Hella Ereiga 1½ 155

4 159 Track branches S.W., main track S. to Jange, take right-hand one S.W.

Hella Moghrabi 5 164 This is where Ali Gula, Nazir of the Homr, lives.

Um Moghrabi 2½ 166½ Large fula, plenty of water.

Um Uerst 2½ 169 Large fula and lots of good water. But none of these fulas (or rahads, as they call them) can be relied on after end of December.

There is another road from El Eddaiya further W., it is no longer, but goes through very thick forest, impassable for camels, but there are some wells on this road, and it is used in the dry weather.

Muglad — — Is a district about 50 miles square, two days easy from Shakka and two days from Bahr El Arab.

There are many feriks, but no permanent villages; the people all go to Bahr El Arab as soon as the water gets scarce and the harvest is collected. They store grain on the tops of trees for consumption and seed when they return in the rainy season. Population all Homr (Ageira), there are many Rizeigat and a few Maalia when I was there, but they have returned to Shakka. There is lots of gum in the district, but they do not collect it. Wells can be made at 10 feet, but they make none. I only saw one well (at Um Ardeib). The people are lazy and poor, but they have large herds of cattle and sheep.

94—FOGA to EL EDDAIYA, viâ J. KAJA SERRUG, DAMJAMAD, and KORDOFAN-DARFUR.

By Captain B. C. Carter, January, 1903.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Foga — — Vide Route 28.

J. Kajaserrug — — This hill is now deserted. There is a broad track running from J. El Hella (Darfur), viâ J. Adashir into Kaja. This was chiefly used, I think, for looted cattle. J. Zerga holds water in the rocks, and there is a khor running, roughly, E. and W., with tebeldi trees, which were filled in the rains. They were still full in January. J. Zumkhor has traces of a wall and brick houses, said to have been built by the Fungs. Also traces of old wells in the wadi. The bricks are good and well-burnt. There are similar buildings on J. Sukunja, W. of Kaja, and also on J. Bishara Taib, E. of Foga.

J. Zerga Mima 9 9 These villages are built on a bare sandy ridge and grow dukhn only. Two miles from Gamania the path joins road from Foga to Damjamad, which latter is a district, including 4 villages of the same name. These people go to Um Shanga when the water supply fails.

Gilatt 4 13

Gamania 3 16

Damjamad 14 30 A fair path, after passing small village of Dunur, goes through some thick thorn, and in about 8 miles descends into Wadi Zernak. This wadi is full of tebeldi trees and may be noted as a base in case of trouble with Darfur. The trees would hold a very large amount of water, but, of course, would have to be filled by hand at the proper time.

Zernak 15 45

Hemir Sibil 15½ 60½ Six miles from Zernak the road quits the tebeldi forest and goes over undulating ridges to Hemir Sibil, which depends entirely on melons. There is a good deal of cultivation.

Tom Wad 11½ 72 A small village dependent chiefly on melons.

Zarug Dagmar 7½ 79½ Fair sized village growing a good supply of dukhn.

Lingu 9½ 89 This district is known as Zalatta, from a rock which holds rain water.

Edam 3 92 Small village.

Gurab 7½ 99½ Small village, deserted early, as melons were scarce. Ridges end and country becomes flat with trees and grass.

Um Reida 8½ 108 Large village with many tebeldis and melons enough to last till next rains. This is in district called Ghabeish.

Good track all the way to El Odaiya.

Gad el Habub 8½ 116½ Small Hamar village. Few tebeldi trees.

Wad Domai 3½ 120 Village.

Abd el Hai 3½ 123½ „

Sharafa 3½ 127 Large Gowama village. Water from tebeldis and from Ogr; a “Hafir” or pond 50 yards in diameter, 8 to 10 feet deep, 2 miles south. It holds water until about January.

There is no bad bush from here to El Eddaiya. Good going.

Sharafa belongs to Kordofan, El Ogr to Darfur.

Gabralla 9 138 Small village of people from Bornu.

Gariban 6 144 Small Hamar village. Main roads from Taweisha and Shakka come in here.

Um Sedeir 7½ 151½ ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ All small Hamar villages.

Wad Dunga 7 158½

Tamba 9½ 168

Sabi 12 180

Aris 7½ 187½

Wad Dau el Beit 5 192½

El Eddaiya 12 204½ Vide previous routes.

95.—EL OBEID to NAHUD (DIRECT ROAD).

By Captain E. G. Meyricke, R.E., November, 1903.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

El Obeid — — The road goes off almost due W., and runs over an undulating plain, at first open and covered with dura cultivation, and then covered with small and thorny shrubs. There are several villages to right and left of road. Village here consisting of about 60 tukls. From here the road goes straight to Jebel Abu Sinun. The water here is obtained from tebeldi trees, and there are some large fulas some distance away, one of which was not dry in December, although there had been little rain (1903). Four miles further on one arrives at a large fula; it contained no water in December. This road now passes El Abiad, where water is obtained from a few tebeldis and from distant fulas.