Volume 2 — CHAPTER V.

(CENTRAL SUDAN.)

31.—KHARTOUM to WAD MEDANI, SENNAR, SENGA, and KARKOJ, up Left Bank of BLUE NILE.

Compiled from Reports by Major de Rougemont and Captain H. F. S. Amery.

Corrected up to 1904.

Between Khartoum and Wad Medani there are rest houses at the following places: Sabil, Masid, Kamlin, Hassa Hisa and Mesellemia; these places are on an average about 18 miles apart. The fee per night payable to the Sheikh in charge is 5 P.T., in return for which an angarib, zeer and water are provided. Eggs, milk, fowls, &c., are generally procurable, but these are of course not included in the 5 P.T.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Khartoum (Palace) — — The road passes over an open plain after leaving the old line of fortifications (gate 1 mile from palace), passing Buri District, comprising 3 villages, to the left; then through Gereif district; 7 villages, population about 1,000; opposite third village the road is ½ mile from river; road runs over flat open plain; cultivation—dura, cotton, dukhn, and vegetables in small quantities round each village. A track also leads straight to the Sabil Rest house, by following which about 1 mile is saved.

Um Dom Island — —

Meshra El Hagar or Hageirat 7½ 7½ Not inhabited.

Road passes in straight line from Khartoum to Meshra El Hagar or Hageirat; at this point it meets the river; excellent watering place only, no village. The village of Um Dom (R.) is exactly opposite Meshra El Hagar.

Soba 4 11½ A small village of tukls on the R. bank. Fourteen miles from Khartoum there is good watering place, no grazing.

El Sabil 6 17½ Rest house. No village.

El Bageir 1½ 19 On river bank, 1½ miles from road, population 200. Through Sabil Kasm El Sid District; signs of ruined village on side of road, from which Eilafun can be seen, bearing 55°.

Goz Shereig — — On R. bank.

Gedid 7 26 Population 1,000; cultivation round villages (3). Track passes over barren treeless plain to

Masudia 5½ 31½ Village on River, population 500; cultivation between village and river.

Nuba 2¼ 33¾ A large village, mud houses, population 1,000; good cultivation. Encamped ½ mile south of Nuba.

El Masid 5 38¾ Rest house. Road still through open plain. No cultivation between Nuba and Masid, nor at latter. Inhabitants cultivate opposite bank. Large village with mosque.

Alti 1 39¾ A straggling village ¾ mile long, population 1,500; bank of river cultivated.

Um Magad 3 42¾ Village ½ mile long, population 300.

El Tikeina 1¾ 44½ Population 200. Encamped in open plain ½ mile south of village; good watering place; no grazing.

Bishagra El Gharbi 2 46½ Large village, 3 mosques. Bishagra El Sharki on opposite bank.

Fadl El Fogur 1 47½ A small village on river bank, population 150.

El Takela 2¼ 49¾ Straggling village, population 800, ½ mile from road on bank of river. Traces of rain cultivation. Another village on right of road, 1 mile further south, also called El Takela.

Wad El Turabi 2¾ 52½ A large village, with large mosque, ½ mile from river. There is a small village on river bank under trees (mimosa). Rain-cultivated dura commences on right of road. Plenty of cultivation on river bank.

Kasembar 2½ 55 A small village of Kamlin district, ¼ mile from road, population 200. The road now enters the Kamlin district, which stretches as far as Abu El Ashr.

El Heleila 1 56 A small village of Kamlin district 1¼ mile left of road, population 200.

Kalkol — — Same as El Heleila. A thick grove of Dom palms close to village.

Kamlin 2½ 58½ A large village, population 1,500, with thin grove of date palms on north side with rest house. Market place, dura obtainable. There are government farms and old ruined indigo factory. A good camping ground on south side of village. The road to Kamlin is quite suitable for wheel traffic. The inhabitants of Kamlin seem prosperous. The Gezira seems well supplied with grass. The road now passes through more cultivation; rain-cultivation dura on both sides of road. Head Quarters of Blue Nile Province (P.T.O.).

Um Degersi 6½ 65 Two small villages, population 700, 1 mile east of road; nearly all straw tukls. Near here another small village on bank Abd El Magdi, population 200; river cultivation. One mile south on right bank of river is the large village of Helalia.

Abu El Ashr 3 68½ A large village on river bank. Here commences Halawin district (includes Abu El Ashr), population 600; mud houses. Road passes through open woody country.

El Talbab 3¼ 71¾ Two miles from river, population 1,000. Mud houses. The road continues through the Halawin district, comprising some 64 villages inland. Cultivation by rain.

Um Haboba 3¼ 75 Commonly called by the natives the Geneinat El Halawin; excellent camping ground, garden, excellent grazing, date palms, lemon trees in garden. The road now passes through somewhat thick mimosa jungle to plain covered with thorn scrub.

Wad Abu Ferugha (Furur?) 3 78 Rest house. A large village, ¼ mile from road on left, population 800. A few dom palms and grazing (indifferent) along bank. Opposite bank well wooded, inhabitants depend on rain cultivation.

Debeba 2 80 A long straggling village, 1 mosque, a few sunt trees. An island called Debeba in front of village. Bearing from north end of village to Rufaa 110°, about 3 miles off on right bank.

Wad El Ramil ½ 80½ A small village east of road. Bearing to Rufaa 90°. Road passes through open plain.

Hassa Hisa or Hassai 2 82½ Two large sunt trees, one at north end, one at south end. Fair size village at the apex of the bend of the river, mostly tukls. One and a quarter miles further on are two very large acacia trees; road open. The river here makes a sharp south bend, Rufaa being about 3 miles north-east from here on R.B. There is a telegraph office at Rufaa.

In the bend opposite Rufaa are several villages, chief being El Amara, which is the Head Quarters of the Mamur of Mesellemia District.

Wad El Fadui 5 87½ Road leaves El Amara to the left and strikes the river again near Wad El Fadui.

El Akura 4 911 Conspicuous palms near river’s edge. Rain cultivation all along road and inland.

Grigrib 3 94½ Small Halawin village. Old Mesellemia now mostly in ruins, lies about 4 miles south-west inland from here.

Fadasi 1¾ 96¼ Large village. Inhabitants chiefly Rekabia Halimab. Omda is Sheikh El Nazir Yusef. Rest house. From here track passes through dura cultivation whole way to Wad Medani.

Fadasi El Amara 1¾ 98 Palms and good deal of bush along river bank.

Wad Medani[20] 10 108 Head Quarters of Sennar Province and 1 battalion of infantry. Second largest town in the Sudan.

Habiballa 3 111 Village on Blue Nile on left of road. Much cultivation hereabouts.

Um Bellal 3 114 Village on right of road. Much jungle along river bank.

Bagadi 9 123 Several villages are passed and a good deal of cultivation to Bagadi, a large village with good watering place. From here the telegraph runs to Meshra El Beriab (10 miles), and thence to Meshra El Shukaba (6½ miles); however, the most direct road cuts off the bend and strikes the river at Meshra Shukaba. Several villages in this neighbourhood and bush both inland and along river bank. A road from Segadi joins in here.

Meshra El Shukaba 14 137

El Denegila 4 141 Good watering place; several villages. Cultivation.

Meshra El Dai 9¾ 150¾ Several villages and much cultivation is passed on the river bank about half way to Meshra El Hegerat. Much bush about here, but main road is good.

Meshra El Hegerat 7 157¾

Sennar 9 166¾ In ruins, but being re-built. Head Quarters of District and garrisoned by a detachment from Wad Medani.

2½ 169¼ River bends eastwards and road leaves it about 2 miles to the east and passes through thick bush to Meshra Eridiba, 1¾ miles before reaching which Sheikh Talha is passed on the right bank. Good camping ground and grazing.

Meshra Eridiba 11 180¼

Leaving Meshra Eridiba the country is more open, and cultivated with dura and semsem.

Abdin is a moderate-sized village on river bank 1½ miles from main road. Good watering place. No grazing near camp, but it is obtainable some 2 miles north.

Abu Shoka is passed 2 miles to the east.

Enediba 13 193¼ On river bank. From here there is a road following the river which makes a big bend to the east to Senga. The direct road is viâ Enediba, and passes through much cultivation and crosses many tracks to Senga, an important village on the river bank. This is now the Head Quarters of the old Karkoj District. It is garrisoned by a detachment from Wad Medani. Many Kenana and Baggara Arabs live here, but the population is much mixed. From Senga roads lead to Lueisa and Abu Kashim on the Dinder.

Senga or Seneij 11¾ 205

There is a P.T.O. here.

A road runs east from here viâ Teigo (wells 16 miles) to J. Dali, and another to J. Moya. From J. Dali there are tracks to the White Nile at Jebelein and Goz Abu Guma.

Senga Um Benein 6½ 211½ From here the track runs due south to Senga Um Benein on river bank. Kenana village.

Meshra Dar Agil 7½ 219 Thence to Meshra Dar Agil, whence by river bank to Karkoj, a town of not much importance now owing to the transfer of Government offices, &c., to Senga.

Karkoj 5 224

32.—KHARTOUM to GOZ ABU GUMA and JEBELEIN, up Right Bank of WHITE NILE.

Compiled from Reports by Captains T. Conolly and W. A. Boulnois (1899).

N.B.—The river can be approached practically anywhere as far as Shawal.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Leaving the most westerly group of palms at Khartoum, the road runs due south for a mile, leaving the village of Goz on the left, and that of Rumeila on the right. Cotton soil. River visible.

Assara — — In next 7 miles road runs (185 Mag.), passing a string of villages on the right (W.) about 1 mile away. The name of all these seems to be Assara, till one gets to the village of Kalakla, about 6 miles from Khartoum, situated in a large clump of trees. Road runs on open desert sand—very good going; river invisible, about 2 miles off.

Kalakla 5 6

Sheikh Um Meriom 3 9 At 9 miles from Khartoum road passes a village with a high tomb in it, called Sheikh Wad Um Meriom. This lies on the river about 1½ miles from the main road.

El Kalakeil 1 10 At 10 miles road passes El Kalakeil on the E. side of it. There are some signs in this last mile of the country having been cultivated. From here the river is about 3 miles off, invisible on account of the bank of sand which forms the desert edge, and some trees on it.

After this the road enters some low sand hills, with large clumps of big trees on the river side about ½ mile off.

3 13 Three miles off this brings one into the first open scrub, which gets closer as it approaches the river—but is not thick, except in a few places on the river bank.

Geziret Haraz 4 17 At 17 miles the head of two islands at high Nile (now no longer islands), called Geziret Haraz and Geziret Um Arda. These islands are, I believe, some 5 miles apart at high Nile, but are now practically one, owing to big alluvial flat from which they rise, being dry at this time of the year (10.3.99).

Geziret Um Arda — —

At this point, and for the next 3 miles on the road, there are a good number of shallow, 15 to 20 feet, wells, giving good water, slightly bitter. I only saw 3, but 7 were reported by natives. There are a good number of camels to be seen in this piece of country.

J. Auli 8 25 Eight miles further takes one to J. Auli, a steep rock about 100 feet high, with a small under-feature on the N.W., about 50 feet. There is a good meshra, or watering place. Under this mountain there is a good camping ground for a brigade.

Gar El Nabi 3 28 Passing E. of J. Auli, after 3 miles Gar El Nabi is reached, which lies close to it. These 3 miles are through open bush, with river visible about ½ to 1 mile off.

4 32 For the next 4 miles the bush gets thicker and the road is crossed by small khors, and in places by cultivation zeribas. River invisible.

Next 6 miles the bush gets more open again, and a line of small sand hills is seen along the river edge hiding it. Horses can be watered anywhere in this 6 miles. In the last half of this distance the trees cease on the east side of the road and 2 large khors cross it.

Opposite J. Barima or Breima 6 38 At 38 miles J. Barima is opposite on the other bank of the river. For about 2 miles before reaching this point, and for 2½ miles after it, the road runs through sand hills, the river being visible about ½ mile off.

At this point (2½ miles south of J. Barima) the river is quite close to the road, which changes its direction to 200° magnetic.

7 45 The road rises slightly in the next mile and 3½ miles further on goes through bush which, though open on the E. side, is fairly thick on the W., making the river invisible.

Wad Belal 3 48 After 3 miles through open bush and sand hills, Wad Belal, a wood station for steamers and a good watering place is reached.

2 50 For the first 2 miles from Wad Belal the road runs through scattered trees which become fairly close bush on the river side for another 2 miles.

El Geteina 4½ 54½ The road enters a large plain of cotton soil, with three tracks across it to Arab dwellings, towards the centre of the Gezira about 4 miles in, and reaches the large village of El Geteina. On the river side there is a large alluvial flat about 2 miles across, and 3 to 4 miles long, which runs north of El Geteina towards Wad Belal. There is a curious round sand hill in the middle of this flat which must be an island at high Nile.

El Geteina consists of two villages about 1 mile apart, the larger of the two being to the north. It is fairly clean and has a very good market. There was a certain amount of cultivation going on with Shadufs (not an amount proportionate to the size of the village), and a large tract of country is obviously sown with dura during the rains. This was the most prosperous village I saw on the Gezira (March, 1899). It is now Head Quarters of Geteina District.

One mile over cotton soil beyond the village of El Geteina, a small one of the same name is reached.

Immediately on leaving this, the road runs into sand dunes with bush for 1 mile; river close (200 yards).

After that, 6½ miles of very good going through scattered trees. The road here is crossed by a large number of Arab tracks to meshras; and many herds of sheep and goats were seen. River invisible from road.

The next 3 miles runs through fairly thick bush with open spaces. This bush gets thinner as it recedes from the river. During the next 2½ miles the road passes to west of a fine strip of open cotton soil about 2½ miles wide, separated from the river by a thick strip of bushes and a large alluvial plain, so that now (12.3.99) it is about 2 to 3 miles from the river. Much dura seems to have been grown here, but only a small portion of this large plain was under cultivation last year.

Garrasa 12 66½ At the end of this plain to the S.E. there are a line of sand hills running N.E. to S.W., and getting gradually smaller towards the S.W. These run alongside the road, beyond the open plain, and end in some small dunes near the village of Garrasa. Garrasa is a small village—without a market—the people of which seem poor. There is a good meshra here. Leaving Garrasa the road runs through about 3 miles of dura land, a large part of which has been recently cultivated. River ¼ to ½ mile away.

3 69½

Wad Shalai 2½ 72 After 2½ miles more, alongside sand hills near the river, the road reaches the small village of Wad Shalai—the inhabitants of which were all away on the river bank cultivating.

Wad El Saki 7 79 Seven miles further, Wad El Saki, a large village on the top of some sand hills, is reached.

The population was about 400 to 500 (March, 1899). The road runs the first half of this distance through sand dunes on both sides, with the river close and visible. The last half leaves the river gradually, and passing through some dura ground, is about 1½ miles from it at Wad El Saki.

Sayef 3 82 From here 3 miles take one to a few houses about 2 miles from the river on some sand hills called Sayef, being one of three villages of that name.

4 86 After 4 miles over cotton soil the road crosses a sand-hill ridge running at right angles to the river, and about 1 mile from it, and descends into the plain close to the river at a point where another village, also called Sayef, is seen about 2 miles inland. At this point there is a good meshra, and a ferry to the other bank.

1 87

6 93 After several miles of low scrub on the river side, and cotton soil which has all been cultivated, on the east Debasi Meshra is reached.

Debasi 2 95 Here the Khalifa had a big grain depôt, the ruins of which can still be seen. There is a regular ferry from here to the other bank. Two miles from this meshra is the village of Debasi; population about 400. The road for this distance is through sand hills, ½ mile from the river.

The village is on the north bank of deep khor. No water in khor (13.3.99 or 1.10.99), but might entail 2 or 3 miles circuit at high Nile. From Debasi to Shabasha (3½ miles) road close to bank. Thence to 14th mile 1 to 1½ miles distant.

Stony hills from 6th to 12th mile east of road. Sandy bank to river, good watering; slight scrub close to river to 6th mile. Thence scrub and sunt trees along road (thick near river), cotton soil, muddy bank. Road closes to river at Ghobeisha.

Ghobeisha 13 108 Ghobeisha meshra and village, good place for camp and watering. Road crosses open plain with high grass cotton soil, probably under water at high Nile.

Ghayafa 4½ 112½ Ghayafa meshra, good camping ground and watering place; sand hill near meshra. Scrub fairly thick, cotton soil.

Denegila 8½ 121 Denegila village, W. of road, opposite island of same name; 1½ miles further, village Abu Karun, N. of road, where it crosses track to Um Seneita, thence to Um Gar village, W. of road, opposite island same name. Dura crops in this district; thick bush close to river to Meshra El Hella. Road runs close to river to Kawa.

Um Gar 4 125

Meshra El Hella 3 128

Kawa 4 132 Kawa, large village with suk, Head Quarters of District, Post and Telegraph station. Road runs ½ mile to 1 mile from river through dura cultivation, and then over grassy plain past village Abu Hindi.

Meshra Shaggara 6 138 Meshra and village close to river.

Hassan Alob 7 145 Thence past Kanuz village, with island opposite, the road runs ¼ mile to ½ mile from river to Hassan Alob, on the banks of the river with an island called Dabus opposite. Still through bush country to Nur El Daim (large village and police station). Road leaves river ½ mile to 1 mile distant up to Sheikh’s tomb (Sheikh Nur El Taib), which is on the river bank. Three large trees, a ruined mud and brick building, and some flags mark it.

Nur Ed Daim 3 148

Sheikh’s tomb 3 151

Shawal 2 153 Road bends due S. to Shawal. Large village. Country: open bush, slightly undulating; good sandy watering places at river. J. Tueima visible S.E. Aba Island begins 2 miles S.

Malaha 3 156 Meshra Malaha and village Meleliha; 3 miles further on salt works. Road enters scrub; bush country to Marabia, good camping ground on high ground, where there are the ruins of an old fort and brick buildings. Road leaves river, crosses a grassy plain—probably under water at full Nile—passed village Torba, E. of road, and turns S.W. to Goz Abu Guma, Head Quarters of District, telegraph and post office.

Marabia 8 164

Goz Abu Guma or Zeinuba 16½ 180½

From Goz Abu Guma road runs ½ mile to 1 mile from river. Line of villages (see sketch) on high ground about 4½ miles from river. Chiefly cattle grazing.

El Khema 6 186½ Road joins river at El Khema. Police post to Mokada Abu Zeit; good camping ground and small village. There is a ford here at low Nile. Two miles further on Musran Island begins and continues to 3 miles of Jebelein.

Mokada Abu Zeit 4½ 195½

Meshra Hedib 4½ 200 Meshra Hedib to Musran Island. The road keeps close to the river bank. The E. channel seemed very much blocked with sudd, only a narrow passage 50 yards wide being visible at times.

Meshra Zuleit 17½ 217½ There is a meshra to Musran Island, 7 miles as the road turns from Jebelein called Zuleit. Hence the road winds through thick scrub, with patches of open country right up to the ford at Jebelein.

Jebelein 8½ 225

Rocky hills commanding the river about 300 feet high.

Grassy plain between north and south ridges.

Village on E. of southern ridge.

33.—KHARTOUM to GULE, viâ MANAGIL and SEGADI.

By Captain H. H. S. Morant, February, 1902.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Khartoum — — Leaving Khartoum by the track passing 200 yards west of the westernmost rifle butts, the country for the first 7 miles is quite open, and very slightly undulating. The soil is poor and sandy, and no attempt at cultivation is visible. At 8 miles the track passes through low scattered arak bush, which continues to Id El Agaliin, where there is one well 120 feet deep with a good supply of water. Ahmed El Faki is the Omda of El Agaliin. Very fair grazing for camels on arak bush. Leaving the Id the country soon becomes open and bare, the soil richer, and traces of cultivation appear. Numerous cross tracks to the river are met with.

Id El Agaliin 17½ 17½

Id Wad El Bella 4 21½ One well 120 feet deep; water said to be plentiful.

Sherafat 9 30½ A tukl village (all villages met hereafter are built of tukls) is passed 1¼ miles on W. of track. It has a well. A mile further on arak and laot bush commence and continue to Id El Orus, where there is one well 120 feet deep; water plentiful, but slightly salt. About a mile before reaching the Id a large village named Debeisa is passed about 1 mile to the east. The people here are a mixture of Jaalin, Awamer, &c. Very fair grazing for camels on arak; there is little or no grass here or anywhere else this year.

Id El Orus 5½ 36

7½ 43½ On leaving the Id the same sort of country continues, cultivation and scattered arak bush, the track still keeping the same S.S.W. direction. At 7½ miles the road to El Ribi branches off half left, and 2½ miles further on Id El Kereil is passed, ½ mile off on the right, the village being about the same distance further W. of the well. The country now becomes perfectly bare (at this season), it being entirely under cultivation, if not this year at any rate in a good season, and the bush ceases altogether. Villages begin to get numerous, and natives are more frequently met, as from here on to Managil, but few leave their villages for the river. This district is known as Gutefab, and the chief village is El Areik (Awamer) which is on the road, the Id being a mile to the east.

Id El Kereil 2½ 46

2 48

Gutefab El Areik 4 52

3 55 About 3 miles on arak grows and affords the only grazing for camels, but it only extends for about ½ mile along the road; the country then become scattered with laot bush and naal grass.

2 57

Goz El Naga 2 59 Goz El Naga is passed about a mile on the right. Not much cultivation visible about here.

Dagala 3 62 A small village with no well.

1½ 63½ Road branches: right to Sarhan, left to Wad Abu Kassawi, where lives the sheikh of the same name; his ancestors are buried close by, and have always been of a so-called religious nature and used to be at any rate, if not now, head of a dervish-like Tarika. Village consists of about 100 tukls. Low laot bush around here. Leaving the village on bearing 216° after 1¾ miles road from Dagala to Sarhan is met and followed; the well of Sarhan being passed close by on the left and the village about 1 mile on the right. Country here quite flat, and covered with naal grass where not cultivated. El Ogda a large Mugharba village with one well of the usual depth, 120 feet. Water plentiful, 50 camels watered without inconvenience to inhabitants. Leaving the Id, country continues the same flat naal-covered plain with occasional laot bushes until nearing Wad El Zein (Omda Ahmed Wad El Zein), where remains of cultivation increase. There is one well 120 feet deep. Natives, Mugharba. No grazing here for camels as elsewhere in this neighbourhood. Cultivation occurs at intervals, becoming more general after passing Sheteita a small Mugharba village. Kreimet is a large Arakin village, Omda Ahmed Yusef. Its two wells are 4 miles further on. Another large Arakin village on left of road with a well, as also have two other villages close on right of road.

Wad Abu Kassawi 3 66½

1¾ 68¼

Sarhan 3 71¼

El Ogda 5¾ 77

Wad El Zein 11¾ 88¾

Sheteita 4 92¾

Kreimet 5½ 98¼

Wells 4 102¼

El Tageia 1¼ 103½

Managil 3½ 107 The plural of El Mangala, the name given to the village in which the suk is situated. There are some half dozen to a dozen villages close together. There are three wells and water never fails, notwithstanding they are 150 feet deep. Here there are inspector’s houses, a Mamur, Zaptia, &c. There is a large mixed population, some of whom were seen playing a game called “tiwa” very like rounders. The plain of Managil is absolutely flat, without a single bush in sight, the whole in favourable seasons being given up to cultivation. Market days are Sunday and Wednesday. Leaving Managil by the route taken Otgi (Hameg), Dar Nail (Hameg), Wad El Shagl (Faradiin) are passed a mile or more on the right hand, whilst Takala and Um Dugl are passed on the left, before reaching Um Talha a Faradiin village. All these villages have wells, as have all villages of any pretensions about here.

Um Talha 9½ 116½

Sheleikha 2½ 119 A Shaigia village passed on left, and Wad Doka on the right, before reaching El Amara (Hameg), and ¾ mile further on Wad Gangar (Shaigia), Rabaha is 1¾ miles further on, and a ¼ mile before reaching it a small suk is passed. From here on the people are Kawahla.

El Amara 3½ 122½

Wad Gangari ¾ 123¼

Rabaha 1¾ 125

Between Managil and Rabaha the track appears to follow a low ridge overlooking an extensive and fertile plain to the W. growing a large amount of cotton and dura. J. Maturi is plainly visible.

Khalet 5½ 130½ After leaving Rabaha track passes through low laot bush which continues as far as Khalet. Two villages, Hellet El Hag and Wad Abdel Rof, are passed about a mile on the right and left of road en route, as also is Sheikh Abdel Rof’s tomb. The well at Khalet is the last on the road to Segadi, there are several other Kawahla villages with cultivation and wells close by. Imam Ali is the head Kawahla Sheikh. From Khalet it is possible under favourable conditions to see J. Segadi. Soon after leaving Khalet the first kittr is met, it now becomes the prevailing bush.

Wad Mukashfi 4½ 135 Called after the son of the Dervish Emir who captured Sennar, who (son) now lives here and is said to have only lately come out of prison for dervish practices. This is the last village in the Managil District of Blue Nile Province. The Sennar Province is now entered. After passing the Mukashfi cultivation, the road leads across an uninhabited waterless plain until Segadi is reached. This plain, on which numerous camels are grazed during the rains, is, as a rule, open and covered with naal and siha grass intersected at intervals by belts of kittr, the thickest and widest is in the last 4 miles before reaching the hamlet on the north of J. Segadi. Another outlying hamlet is Ereiga, which was passed but not seen, about 4 miles from the jebel which strongly resembles J. Kassala on a small scale. It consists of two main granite masses lying north-east and south-west, the wells being between them. There is also one on the western side of main jebel. The village, which must contain some 1,500 inhabitants, is close to the western face of the larger jebel. The population is very mixed, and many only live here during the dry season. Torin Ahmed (Rufaa) is Sheikh of this heterogeneous crowd. There are said to be caves in the jebels here, which doubtless occasionally harbour bad characters from the Gezira and elsewhere.

J. Sejadi 24 159

1 160

Moya 13½ 173½ Following the telegraph line which runs E.S.E., Moya is reached in about 13½ miles. Dense kittr is passed through en route, but the road is cleared for the wire. Approaching Moya much cultivation is passed in clearings in the bush. The name Moya as applied to this village is an euphemism as water is particularly scarce, and is obtained from several 15 to 20 feet wells under the jebel 1 mile south of the village. In the hot weather the inhabitants (probably 2,000) disperse or else carry their water from Segadi. The Omda’s name is El Imam Hadibai, and the majority of the population are Amarna, a few Hameg and Gowama. There are caves called “maiuba” in the jebel close to the village, said to be used for “fogara.” From the summit of the jebel, J. Dali is plainly visible on a favourable day, bearing 177½° magnetic. There is little shade here.

Road to Teigo 3 176½ After hugging the eastern end of J. Moya, the road to Gule turns nearly due south, the road to Teigo branching off S.S.E., and after traversing a bad belt of kittr bush about ½ mile in width, the road crosses a plain at first studded with kurmet, but later without bush at all.

4 180½ Road here bifurcates, the left hand track leading to the river (Blue Nile).

5 185½ The road from Seneij or Senga to Goz Abu Guma viâ J. Dud crosses the track.

J. Sereig 10 195½ A small granite hill about 200 feet high, the road passes it 100 yards on the right hand.

6 201½ Scattered bush now commences and continues with occasional interruptions until reaching the bad kittr about 1 mile wide surrounding Jebel Dali, a stony hill about 500 feet high. Water is found about half way up, immediately below its highest point. After a good rainy season it lasts till March or April, but there was practically none on February 4th, 1902.

J. Dali 19½ 221

J. Abu Garud 22 243 The road from Senga viâ Teigo on Blue Nile to Musran and Goz Abu Guma passes by this watering place. Remains of former habitations of Abu Rof Arabs are visible. Leaving the jebel in a southerly direction after traversing a thick belt of kittr, ½ mile wide, J. Teigo is visible on the left and J. Abu Garud and other hills on the right. Abu Garud is the highest hill seen south of Khartoum. At first the country is open, then forest (chiefly soffar) begins and continues till after passing J. Bozi a long, low hill immediately under the west end of which the road passes, and then becomes open until reaching J. Mazmum. Here rain and spring water is found in natural tanks in perhaps half a dozen places. The amount of water of course varying with the rains. There was sufficient in a tank at the foot of the southern end of the western face of the jebel to water 40 camels and 40 men for two days. This exhausted this supply. A spring at the foot of the southern end of the western face, being on the road, is the one generally used, and the supply is consequently low. There is a tank about 20 yards by 10 yards on a detached hill, about ¾ mile N.W. of main jebel. Water was found of an average depth of 2 feet, both sweet and clear. This being off the road had not been much used. There is said to be always water at Mazmum. No natives[21] live here now, though formerly it was head quarters of the Abu Rof Arabs, the remains of whose houses are still visible. Good shade (200 men), and very fair grazing for camels near western water tank. From here, Gireiwa and other hills to the S. and S.E., as well as Bunzuga and Abu Garud are easily visible.

J. Bozi 9 252

J. Mazmum 14 266

Water Tank 1½ 267½

4 271½ The track to Gule still leads south, the country being open for first 4 miles, when narrow belt of bush is traversed. Five miles further on thick soffar bush commences which develops into forest, which extends E. and W. continuously for many miles south of Gule. The principal trees are hashab (very numerous about 20th mile, but decrease as Gireiwa is approached), talh, nabag, soffar, kadad, and the poisonous (to camels) hakabit. Wide clearings along the path indicate that in the old days this road was much used, but now they are mostly overgrown, and travelling by night is an unpleasant, if not a dangerous proceeding.

5 276½

J. Gireiwa 21½ 298 Two long low hills running nearly E. and W., and where the road passes between them there is a small supply of water (spring), 20 yards on right side of road.

El Burun 7 305 J. Gule is first visible from here, and is a granite mass about 1,300 (?) feet high and 1¾ miles long, lying nearly E. and W. El Burun a small village at the foot of northern face of the jebel is first approached, the road then turns to the west, passing an encampment of Dar Agil Arabs, and after rounding the western end of Jebel Gule the village of Gule is reached close at the foot of western and of southern face. There is a plentiful supply of water, which, however, is largely impregnated with lime and consequently is injurious to health. Idris Wad Regab is Sheikh of Dar Fung and lives here. He is a direct descendant of the kings of the Fung, whose former territory extended to the south beyond the present limits of the Sudan-Abyssinian frontier. The total inhabitants of Gule and its two outlying hamlets is about 1,000. The natives are Hameg, and Selim and Dar Agil Baggaras roam about in the neighbourhood. Roads lead from here to Roseires (5 days), Surkum (5 days), Karkoj, and Renk (2 days). There is much fever here during and after the rainy season. There is good shade about 1 mile east of the village. Little in the way of supplies, not even grain, is obtainable here.

Gule 3 308

34.—MANAGIL to SENNAR.

By Captain N. M. Smyth, V.C., 1899.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Managil — — Headquarters of District (vide preceding report).

Abud (Abudia Tribe) 9½ 9½ Most fertile land in the Gezira hereabouts. Track runs E. through grass plain. Bush visible 1 mile to S. Two wells 150 feet deep. Track N.E. to Mesellemia, E. to Wad Medani, and S.E. to Sennar.

Um Deghina (Kawahla) 1 10½ Pond, 60 yards diameter, dry after December. Cultivation commences.

2 12½ Mimosa scrub W. of track.

3 15½ Village of same name ½ mile S.

2 17½ A dry pond. Mimosa 10 feet high, and high grass on both sides of the road. The Hassanat have a camp in the winter about 2 miles W. of track, and water at Abud and Ataleih.

Ataleih 4 21½ Two wells. A large tree ½ mile N.W. serves as landmark. No good shade obtainable. S. of this, thorny scrub has sprung up on fallow land. A track leading S.W. to Bagadi, Kenana, Digoisab and Hellet El Baragna. Track leads on about S.E.

Keteir 6 27½ Small village marked by a large tree. One well about 150 feet deep, runs dry directly after watering about 200 people, 300 sheep and 20 donkeys.

Karatib (Jaalin and Kenana) 4 31½ Large village, good well, excellent black cotton soil extending for 3 miles in all directions. Only patches have been cultivated for dura.

2 33½ Thick bush and high grass. View limited to 300 yards.

Basabir (Jaalin) 1 34½ New well being sunk. Cotton and dura crops.

Fahal (Kenana) 1 35½ About 50 huts to W. Copious supply of water from well. A small khor S.E. of it holds water till December. Wood extends to S.

Fahal Suk 1 36½ Consists of rows of straw shanties situated in a wood. It is chiefly used by Kenana.

El Giseirab 2 38½ One good well in a clearing in wood. Easily defended; good bivouac ground.

Tulbakh 4 42½ Last mile of approach is open and partly cultivated. Long straggling village. Dry pond and cemetery N. of it. To S.W. the market, and a well and pond which dried up about 10th February. Mohammed El Nur of Kenana is Sheikh of village. Several hundred sheep, many donkeys, one horse, fowls and pigeons, but no camels. The best marked track leads S. from the Suk, and, bending S.E., passes zeribaed dura fields to El Doma, where there is a village and a well. It continues, through shady acacia and fields to Meshra El Dai, whence the Blue Nile can be reached.

El Doma 8 50½

Meshra El Dai 4 54½

Meshra El Bejirat 2 56½ Good halting place on bank.

Sennar 9 65½ Banks wooded.

35.—KEILI to SENGA, viâ GULE.

Compiled from a Report furnished by Lieut.-Col. Gorringe, March, 1903.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Keili, S.W. — — Limited water supply from water holes, but more could be had by digging down to 8 feet—cotton soil in places and stony in others—single file along track.

Khor Farsia 11 11 Insufficient water at Kukulik, had to go on to Khor Farsia, fair supply of water by digging 4 feet. After which, no water first 3 miles. Cotton soil, single file. After J. Doya, good hard going cotton soil last 2 miles.

Khor Togu 33½ 44½ Ample water 18 feet below surface in Khor Togu, first 4 miles cotton soil. Rest house. After reaching J. Dunkur good hard going for 3 miles, then bad cotton soil, for 1 mile each side J. Bur-Burka good going, then bad again over cotton soil, insufficient water at first village 4 miles from spot camped at, a little water half way between village and camp in Khor Togu.

Seraf Dal 10½ 55 Ample water running and in pools, single file, stony, fair going only, bad in places. Rest house at Soda.

Khor Tamrin 7 62 Fair supply of water in pools probably ample by digging, a good deal up and down hill, hard going but stone, single file.

J. Kukur 5 67 Good supply of water reported in Seraf Sahaba, hard going, stony, single file. Rest house.

J. Buk (N.W. end) 8½ 75½ Rest house. Fair supply of water in water holes, cotton soil, single file, bad going. From here on no water, very bad going, hard cotton soil badly cracked, single file, though road has been widened.

J. Gule 30½ 106 Residence of Sheikh Idris Wad Ragab. Limited supply of water in water holes, good supply from Government wells, very bad going except in few places, soil badly cracked, single file, though road has been widened.

J. Jemam or Ali 9 115 Small supply of water here.

J. Roro (N.E. side) 5½ 120½ Plenty of water in water holes 4 feet deep, going same as before. Continuing, no water but better going, though mostly cotton soil, single file.

J. Werka 19 139½ Small amount of water in holes.

J. Gerebin 15½ 155 Very limited supply of water in water holes in two places at N. side of hill, just sufficient water in each to water about 100 horses once. There is however a large tank of beautiful water on the top of the hill. This does not last throughout the dry weather. Going same as before. From here to the river there is no water, going for the first 7 miles same as before, after which it improves, but all marching is in single file.

Meshra Gurra (Blue Nile) 25 180 From here good road down L. B. Blue Nile to Singa.

Ramela 10 190 Jaalin village.

Abu Naam 3 193 Village on Blue Nile.

Geneira 8 201 „ „ „

Seiro 7½ 208½ „ „ „

Senga 19½ 228 Head quarters of Senga District.

36.—SENGA to J. JEROK, viâ KHOR OFAT and KEILI.

By Captain C. Roberts, R.A., February, 1904.

Note.—This was the route followed by the expedition against Ibrahim Wad Mahmud in February and March, 1904. It has not, hitherto, been the usual route to Keili, but as it is the most direct, and could be easily improved, it will probably be adopted, at any rate for Government purposes.

From the mouth of the Khor Ofat to Keili (50 miles) there are no inhabitants and in February, 1904, no track. There is little difficulty about water, which stands in pools in the Khor Ofat, or can be easily obtained by digging in its bed. The distances cannot be taken as accurate.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Senga — — Leaving Senga, road good, mostly over cotton soil; last part better than first, but dusty. Country covered with bush. There are two roads; westerly one to Um Bayaga and thence S.E. towards river, other road runs nearer the river. Wheeled transport feasible.

Um Benein 6 6 There are two Meshras here, bad at High Nile, fair at Low Nile; wood plentiful, grass fairly so. From here two roads, the one nearest river is shortest. Going on upper road bad after leaving Dar Agil, last part better along telegraph line. Thick bush. Good camp about 2 miles from telegraph line. Good Meshra, wood and grass plentiful, duck jhil 3 miles S. of camp.

Meshra Abu Hagar 18 24

Abu Naama 14 38 From here two roads, one along river, other along telegraph line, latter shorter. Bad going, cotton soil, thick scrub. Bad (steep) meshra for animals. Headquarters of District.

From here two roads, better and shorter upper one along telegraph. Country thick bush, more undulating. Good going.

Gura 15 53 Good meshra and shady camp. From here two roads, lower one along river the shorter—latter part along edge of Maya Ahmar, and cuts through it. River reached by elephant track. Country dense scrub, and difficult for camels at night. At high Nile lower road impassable. Good camp on sandy bed of river. Grass plentiful and watering easy. Road now good though hilly, and follows telegraph line, but branches off to river opposite to Sherif Ahmed (right bank). Dense bush.

Galgeni 15 68

Taulu 19 87 A very good, large camping ground on grass and good meshra. Wood and grass plentiful. Camp must be swampy in rains.

Road still hilly; difficult khor about 4 miles from camp, could be easily improved. Road difficult for camels owing to thick bush, and road along telegraph too hilly.

Abu Kok 17 104 Camp at Abu Kok in February bad, as site is really a marsh. Bad water, but later on river is getatable.

El Disa 10 114 From here road along telegraph, but later branches off to El Disa on a rise overlooking small lake. Very pretty place. Camped on sandy river bed; easy watering; wood and grass plentiful.

After striking telegraph good road, first 4 miles through thick scrub. Hilly at first, level after passing Abu Rainat, and much cultivation.

Roseires (Left Bank) 14 128 Good meshra, fair camping ground, wood and grass plentiful.

Kharaba (Right Bank) 11 139 Continuing S. good going to opposite Kharaba. Good camp in grove, tebeldis. Bad meshra; banks steep and bed of river soft.

Mouth of Khor Ofat 16 155 Good road, last part through dom jungle to Khor Ofat. Found eight water holes dug in khor, and cavalry camped 1 mile further down at pool in bed of khor. Good camping ground in bed of khor; grass and water plentiful.

Camp (Khor Ofat) 16 171 The route taken now lay nearly due S. of Khor Ofat; for first 4 miles followed khor, then found excellent road, except for occasional deep elephant tracks along bank. Mostly cotton soil and thick jungle. Descended into bed of khor after 10 miles, and marched up it to where we found running water. Good camping ground close by. Grass, wood, and water all plentiful. Continuing S. outside khor, cotton soil, good going, thick bush, grass higher and thicker as we descended into khor, 9 miles from last camp. Left khor again still heading S., road bad, cotton soil, trees bigger. Last 4 miles country more open and going better. Extended formations possible. Camped at pool where large herd of roan drinking. Khor 400 yards wide. Good camp, grass, shade, wood, and water plentiful.

Camp, Pool (Khor Ofat) 20 191

Camp (Khor Ofat) 15 206 From here marched up khor; mostly very heavy going, parts of it hard. Uninteresting road. Khor narrows to 120 yards. Halted at two big water holes. More water obtained by digging under W. bank.

Continuing marching up khor which becomes narrower and stonier, passed through several “shellal” (cataracts) and khors running into Khor Ofat. In places bed of khor good hard going.

Camp (Khor Ofat) 15 221 Banks become lower, bamboo jungle chiefly with large trees. Good camp and water from holes in bed of khor.

Camp (Khor Ofat) 13 234 Leave Khor Ofat to the W. At first bad going, pass large patch of cultivation with tukls and leave J. Ragreig on the E., and strike khor at pool; good road. Khor 15 yards wide and runs E. and W. here. From here good road to Keili. Good camping ground, but water in wells dirty. Good water obtainable from Khor Ofat, 4 miles N.N.E. Garrison, 50 Sudanese regulars. Path from here excellent, passing through good deal of cultivation and leaving J. Kamya from which good view of a surrounding country obtainable close to E.

Keili 5 239

Khor Timsa 11 250 After J. Kamya track intersected by khors and is over bad cotton soil. Good camp, grass poor, water plentiful.

From here to Jerok trying march, as path continually ascends and descends. J. Kurmuk is left to the W.

J. Jerok 20 270 Formerly the home of Ibrahim Wad Mahmud. Garrison of 50 Sudanese regulars on small hill, about 1½ miles S. Water supply scanty, but plenty for animals, 2½ miles S. in Khor Agaheni.

37.—ROSEIRES to KEILI, viâ GULE.

By Major G. de H. Smith, February, 1902.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Roseires — —

Abramat 3 3 Village on W. bank Blue Nile, road goes through bush and grass.

J. Agadi[22] 22 25 Crossing Khor El Dunia, water here in three places, not good. Road now goes S. until Seraf Jogo; usual cotton soil and bush.

Seraf Jogo 25 50 Rest house and good water here in khor from a spring; tobacco cultivated by the Ingasana. Bad going, over rocks; pass spring at Pingulo; road going W. to Buk.

J. Buk 12 62 Water here under villages on S. side of hill, not good. Road goes off N.W. towards Gule; grass and bush and cotton soil.

Gule 27½ 89½ Water here good in two places on S. side of hill. One deep well, good water, also big hole with Sagia; track S.W. to Khor Deleib; a flat depression with small khor in it; sometimes water holes where Arabs water sheep. Well 20 feet deep, good supply of water; track turns to S. to J. Silak.

Khor Deleib 16½ 106

J. Silak 22 128 Water south side of hill, full of filth, natives even say it is bad, except just after rain. Rest house here.

Road goes off due E. through pass in J. Sirefat to J. Mogaja.

J. Majaju 19¼ 147¼ Village on top of high rock; water has to be brought down by natives—very good; go due South now to Abuldugu, road over hard ground. Well can be easily sunk at bottom of hill 6 feet deep. Rest house.

J. Abuldugu 16½ 163¾ Water here in pond in pass in the hills, getting bad at this time of year (Feb.). Water obtainable from wells in K. Ganna, not very plentiful, ½ hour E. There is a Rest house here.

Track due S. to J. Surkum.

A track also goes to Keili (9 hours march), water plentiful, Kukeli two-thirds of way.

J. Surkum 14 177¾ Water in four places on S. side—very dirty.

Water also obtainable in khor about 1½ miles N.E.

J. Keili 20 197¾ Track goes off to W., and is over cotton soil, and crosses khors. Water here plentiful. Best water S. end of big hill some way up. Rest house.

38.—FAZOGLI to GEZAN.

By Lieutenant L. C. Jackson, R.E.

The Road.Is in good condition throughout. It is very level, except where it crosses a khor or skirts a hill closely, there are no long ascents or descents. The large khors are all very shallow and broad, with sandy beds, so that at the present time of year, when they are all empty, they do not cause the slightest delay. When passing near a hill the road is generally rough and uneven, and covered with loose stones, and in addition numerous small khors have to be crossed.

The Country.Is as a rule dead flat, with the exception of the Jebels, which are like so many islands. Except where there is cultivation, there is nothing but bush, varying in thickness, and grass, which is now being burnt. Cultivation as a rule consists of dura and semsem, but except where mentioned there is nothing but bush. Where the grass has been burnt, progress on foot through the bush is fairly easy as a rule.

Water.Is very scarce. All the khors are now (December) dry, but water can be obtained from holes scraped in the bed. The supply is rapidly decreasing, and in two or three places where water was obtainable on our way out to Gezan, no water could be obtained on our way back, only three days later.

Between the Khor Sumba and the Khor Karri, however, water appears to be plentiful, and in the Khor Tumat itself there seems to be an ample supply just below the surface.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Fazogli, Mek’s House — — The road leaves the village in a southerly direction and runs straight to the foot of J. Fazogli, on reaching which it follows the S.E. spur, but without ascending it. At first it runs through patches of cultivation, but after about ½ mile this gives place to thin bush. The road is for the most part good, except where it crosses numerous small khors, tributaries of the Khor Akluli, which also follows the foot of the ridge, as a rule between the road and the high ground. The ascent on the right of the road is very steep, and the hill side consists of boulders and loose stones and is covered with scrub.

Kukuru 6¾ 6¾ Whilst still W. of J. Kukuru, a few tukls are passed, and shortly afterwards the road bends eastwards and enters the village of Kukuru, which consists of some 50 or 60 tukls. There is a considerable amount of cultivation here, but most of it lies S. of the khor on the Kira road. At the end of December, 1899, water was only obtainable from holes in the bed of the khor, and appears to be very bad and scarce.

After crossing the khor the road runs straight through the bush to J. Taza, and thence to Khor Baba. Up to J. Taza the surrounding country is flat and the bush thick, and nothing can be seen from the road, except an occasional glimpse of a distant hill. A very small quantity of water was obtained by digging in the bed of the Khor Daru on the 24th December, 1899, but four days later on returning this had dried up.

Beyond J. Taza the country is more undulating, but still covered with bush, and for the last ½ mile before Khor Baba it is somewhat rough.

Khor Baba 8¾ 15½ Camped here 25th December, 1899. A tributary of the Khor Tumat about 25 yards broad where crossed by the road. Good water obtainable, but getting scarce now. Road beyond somewhat rough and uneven, which is caused by the spurs of J. Agaro, &c., all of which hills are left on right. Bush, with no traces of water, until Khor Sumba is reached, but J. Agaro is inhabited by Jebelawin.

J. Agaro 4½ 20

Khor Sumba 5 25 Crossed three times in the space of about ½ mile. Probably due to an S curve in the river and not three distinct channels. Breadth of each about 35 yards, but extremely shallow. Banks very fertile and a good deal of cultivation, principally dura. Good water obtainable here.

Khor Tumat 1 26 Road just enters khor, where it is joined by Khor Kari, but leaves it again without crossing it. Khor about 60 yards broad here. No water visible, but could probably be obtained by digging, as there is any quantity just below the surface about 5 miles further south. From here to the Khor El Dahab (Adaba), trees are bigger and water evidently more plentiful, with many traces of all sorts of game.

Khor El Dahab 2¾ 28¾ Crossed by the road about ½ mile from its junction with the Khor Tumat. Water obtainable at present, but very little and bad. Road crosses east of J. Farbau, passing over some of the low spurs; ground broken and stony. All traces of water now disappear and the ordinary bush begins again. Numerous small khors are crossed, but all completely dry. J. Gumbûk is left to the E., and about 1 mile further on signs of water are again visible and cultivation recommences, also two or three tukls. Henceforward cultivation is continuous, and about ¾ mile further on at some more tukls the road turns abruptly to the right and runs straight down to the Khor Tumat.

Gezan (Water pool in Khor Tumat) 8 36¾ Camp here in bed of khor 26th December, 1899. Water good and plentiful but below surface.

Milk and other supplies only obtained with great difficulty.

39.—GEZAN to KURMUK, viâ SUDE and M’NZILA.

By Major Gwynn, D.S.O., R.E.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Khor Tumat — — Track passes under the northern foot of J. Gezan. Before reaching J. Sude, water is found in Khor Durin and Khor Gaza. A certain amount of gold washing is carried on in both these water courses.

J. Ghezan 3 3

J. Sude 12 15 Sude was the site of an old Egyptian Mamuria. The present Mek is a Berta and very few of the natives know Arabic. There is a good deal of cultivation and plenty of water is obtainable.

M’Nzila 8½ 23½ M’Nzila is a large scattered village to the south, and south of J. M’Nzila a great deal of ground is under cultivation. The leading men, most of whom are Jaalin who established themselves there in the Dervish time, are prosperous. Road from Sude to M’Nzila very rough and bad, good water in the Khor Goga near its source.

From M’Nzila there is a fair, though very hilly, road leading west over the north shoulder of J. M’Nzila and south of J. Tone. A very deep ravine runs along the south side of J. M’Nzila into the valley between Dul and Kurmuk.

The descent into the valley just north of J. Tone is very steep.

Sh. Adingam’s Village 5½ 29 At the bottom of the valley is Sh. Adingam’s village, where there is a good water supply.

Crossing the valley to J. Kurmuk several gold washings are passed near the foot of J. Dish.

The Kurmuk village is very small and there is little cultivation.

The road from Sh. Adingam’s is very bad and stony till clear of the hills. Then there is flat, thickly wooded country.

40.—GULE to RENK.

By Captain H. H. S. Morant, February, 1902.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Gule (Rest house) — — The track to Renk leaves Gule in an easterly direction and for the first mile traverses cultivation, two small Selim Arab encampments are passed on the right hand; thick forest at once begins, composed chiefly of 30 feet high talh, hashab, nagba, kadad, soffar, &c., and there is a large amount of the (to camels) deadly poisonous hekabit. At this time of year the grass and undergrowth is burnt, but the trees are so thick[23] that they prohibit marching at night unless with a good moon. Riding a horse or mule one is far less inconvenienced than if on a camel. There are fairly frequent open spaces suitable for camping grounds.

21 21 The dense forest ceases and more or less scattered and much lower bush takes its place.

5 26 The country through which the track leads becomes practically open.

1½ 27½ A broad, ill-defined depression, probably a marsh in rains.

5 32½ Tall and rather close kittr commences interfering somewhat with progress.

2½ 35 The tall kittr ceases and country becomes open.

Khor Deleib or El Sunt 2 37 A khor, 15 yards wide and 10 feet deep is crossed, also known as Deleib.

1 38 Kittr bush commences and continues for about 2 miles, not very dense.

4½ 42½ Dense tall kittr commences, considerably retarding progress, and lasts for 2½ miles.

2½ 45 Country becomes open and cultivation is passed on left.

1 46 Sheikh Bakhit’s (Dinka) rain village is passed and the road now runs along the side of a low, sandy ridge dotted with heglig trees, cultivation, and several Dinka villages.

1 47 Dinka village on right.

1 48 Dinka village on left.

Khor Deleib or El Sunt 4½ 52½ Khor El Sunt is recrossed in two branches.

Sheikh’s village ½ 53 Sheikh Aweir Wad El Rung head Sheikh at Renk.

Village 1½ 54½ Village.

Meshra Renk 1 55½ Inspector’s and police houses on bank of White Nile. Headquarters of District. P.T.O.

41.—JEBELEIN to RENK (R.B.).

By Captain H. H. Wilson, March, 1902.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total from Khartoum.

Khartoum — —

Jebelein 225 225 Country round Jebelein is grass with laot and kittr bush in thick patches. River here 600 yards wide (dry season), rocks showing river in places. For first mile or two after leaving Jebelein open grass plain on E. of track, kittr bush beyond. A few heglig trees between track and river.

Sherif 2½ 227½ Name of spot only; this name applies to country next two miles.

Wad Nimol Island 3½ 231

Um Romad 3½ 234½ End of district of this name which begins where Sherif ends.

Maghaba 1½ 236 District only; no inhabitants. N. end of Bulli Island begins and track along khor which forms it, water only in places in khor.

Awad El Kerim 2½ 238½ Khor and small hill of this name. Road alternately good and bad from kittr bush.

Debba Goda 3½ 242 J. Abu Garud and Jebelein last visible from here; Sheikhs Tomb on bare hill 50 feet high.

Debba El Ghoda 2¼ 244¼ Small khor; ground slightly undulating and rising inland.

Ganus 8½ 252¾ Bare, open high “debba” 50 feet above track, no inhabitants, only a name.

Karshawal 9¼ 262 No huts or signs of permanent habitations; a few Baggara “rakubas.” End of Bulli Island.

Old camp 3½ 265½ Old entrenched camp about 80 yards by 30 yards on rising ground 200 yards from river on right hand side of track, good meshra.

Karshawal Island 2 267½ Going bad on account of kittr. This is last water before reaching Agang as river makes a bend westwards.

Agang 13 280½ Dinka villages of Nyitau and Manjak, generally called Agang.

Renk 3 283½ Good meshra. Police Post. Mosquitoes here are very bad. Advisable to encamp inland near Dinka villages. Telegraph and Post office here.

42.—RENK to KAKA OLD WOOD STATION (HELLET EL NYAM NYAM), R. B.

By Captain H. H. Morant, March, 1902.

General.The road described below runs along the river bank, or the banks of khors adjoining the river. Since the erection of the telegraph line (1903), the road along the line is the more generally used, being more direct. In the rains, a road running from Renk to Goz Kash Kash thence to Awitong is said to be the one used—this road probably leaves the river about 8-10 miles to the W.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total from Khartoum.

Khartoum — —

Renk 283½ 283½ A meshra on the W. Nile with inspector’s house and police tukls. The road at first leads in a S.E. direction, and after 2 miles Khor Deleib 30 feet wide and about 6 to 10 feet deep is crossed. Another smaller khor, a branch of Deleib, is crossed ½ mile further on. The road now runs alongside a wide khor or branch of the Nile named Gaza El Abiad. The track to Gule branches off in a S.E. direction. Numerous Dinka villages are passed about a mile E. of the road (which is excellent going), and continue at intervals until after passing Sheikh Bakhit Niok’s (a released slave from Cairo) village Warrit ½ mile E. A few Shilluk villages are passed on the island called Wad Ab Kona, formed by Khor Gaza El Abiad and White Nile. This khor at High Nile is probably 300 yards to 600 yards wide, but now (March) it is nowhere more than 300 and fordable nearly everywhere. There are many wild fowl on it. S. of Warrit the people are mostly Selim Baggara living in temporary encampments about a mile inland for the grazing.

Khor Deleib 2 285½

¾ 286¼

Warrit 9 295¼

Um Hedeida 11¼ 306½ The encampments now cease and the water in the khor gradually decreases until at Um Hedeida, water is stagnant and only in small quantities. The country on E. of track which always follows the eastern bank of khor, is covered with 3 feet high grass (where not burnt), and scattered bush and no signs of cultivation are visible.

3 309½ Water reappears in the khor, and there are Selim encampments to the E. of the track.

Leungtom or Domaia 3½ 313 At meshra Leungtom (Dinka) or Domaia (Arab) the Nile is approached again for the first time since Renk. About 1½ miles inland are the villages of Kolang, El Wat, &c., under Sheikh Salem Banga (also a released slave from Cairo). A certain amount of cultivation is visible and the country is tolerably open. Soon after leaving the meshra, the track follows the eastern bank of a khor resembling Gaza El Abiad. The Arab name for it varies with the districts it traverses. The Dinka name was not obtained. On the W. of the track is a fringe of thick talh bush, to the E. the country is fairly open.

Debba El Zawia 4 317 The first dom palms are met here. This Debba is the commencement of the Nabagaia district.

Dinka village, Anok 2½ 319½ A village, Anok, belonging to Agweim Dinkas, is passed about ¾ miles to E. on a slight elevation and thick talh bush commences on both sides of the track. This village appears to depend on the river for its water supply.

The bush gradually develops into talh and heglig forest. There is good shade all along the khor and the track, as it has been throughout, is excellent; the trees along the route cause little inconvenience.

Tereiba (Arab) 9 328½ Nabagaia district ends and Tereiba begins, and is marked by the reappearance of dom palms.

2 330½ An excellent mid-day camping ground, good shade and water in the khor. J. Ahmed Agha is visible from near here.

Debba Ibrahim Sharak (Arab) 3 333½ Dense forest continues until reaching this slight elevation (called after a man who was killed by an elephant here), and commences again after about a mile of open ground, and the district of El Ragal (Arab) begins, and the khor now takes that name.

El Ragal (Arab) — —

Track leading to Kash Kash (Arab and Dinka) 2½ 336 A track branches off eastwards and is said to lead to a Dinka village or district called Kash Kash 15-20 miles from the river. There are said to be wells there. The bush or forest after leaving Debba Ibrahim Sharak up to this point is unpleasantly thick, especially for night travelling, but here the bush ceases to cause any inconvenience.

Goz Abu Teiba 3¾ 339¾ A slight elevation; a mile further on the road was left and Khor Sangeir about 100 yards wide and now (March) dry, was crossed.

Khor Sangeir or Rau ¾ 340½

Khor Messangeir 1 341½ This khor would probably be a considerable obstacle in the rains, and would have to be crossed some distance up. After a good rainy season the people in the neighbourhood of Mabiu, which is about 15 miles further up are said to drink from it until well on into the dry season. A mile further on Khor Messangeir or Mariu, or Balantega, a rather smaller khor is crossed. J. Ahmed Agha or Biba about 300 feet above the plain. There are several Dinka and Selim Arab villages in the neighbourhood, but no one lives here during the rains. The Dinkas then retire inland and the Arabs to districts N. of the fly limit. From Ahmed Agba there is a little used track to Jebel Ulu Gerauit, which is visible from the top of the Jebel, and is described as being distant two days without water. Sheikh Jok is the Dinka Sheikh here and Akwé acts for him when absent. There are many dom palms around the Jebel. Water is obtained from Khor Biba or Ahmed Agha, the river which here bends S.W., is about 1 mile W. of it.

J. Ahmed Agha or Biba 1 342½

Heglig or Tau 3 345½ Is the name of the district which extends for about 6 miles opposite to Gezira Wad Beiker on the northern end of which is a Shilluk village Edor Gamoia. Marbeit (Arab) or Shakab (Dinka) is the name of the next district.

Gezira Wad Beiker 2 347½

Edor Gamoia — —

Marbeit or Shakab 2½ 350

1½ 351½ The road which has been skirting the branch of the Nile (about 30 yards wide) for about the last 4 miles now ceases to do so, and a grassy plain which at High Nile must be a swamp intervenes between it and the river.

Ial Gamus — — A Shilluk village on the island. The Sheikh after whom the village is named, is a refugee from Cairo.

Kwé 4½ ½ 356 A Dinka Farikh.

Alumbul ½ 356½ Sheikh Ajak’s village. The country round is fairly open, scattered kitr and naal grass. Both these villages are under the control of Sheikh Salem Banga of El Wat.

Meshra Zeraf 1½ 358 The meshra extends for about 2 miles; the road skirts the river and crosses a wide, shallow khor called a Farlegh or Rigl by the Arabs. It is said to come from near Aturuk.

Farlegh Meshra Zeraf or Makwé 2 360

Rom (Dinka) or Um Gursan 3 363 Dinka villages named Rom under Sheikh Jok. The district is known by the Arabs as Um Gursan, the track from Renk to this point is as a rule excellent, but from here to Kaka it is generally bad, passing over very hard caked and badly cracked cotton soil.

2 365 Fine kuk and other trees are passed. The small black fly was exceptionally bad here in the early morning and attacked the camels in swarms.

Tereiti 4 369 The district of Tereiti begins. Ardeib El Miriam (Arab) is the district on opposite bank.

Meshra Rom or Tereiti 3 372 Meshra Rom or Tereiti.

Dinka villages, Fil and Ajak 3 375 Villages belonging to Adeir Dinkas. River about 1 mile E. of track, to the W. the country is more or less open with patches of bush and trees in places.

Dinka villages, Nakwé and Fithi 7 382 Villages under Sheikh Akol Wad Ashol.

Jung Yom ¾ 382¾ Dinka villages under Akol. The river is now about 2 miles away, right of road.

Debba Shagerat 1¼ 384 Arab name for knoll on right of point where road bends westwards and crosses a marshy (in rains) plain to Sheikh Akol’s village about 1 mile from river opposite Kaka, where there are many Shilluk villages. The Arab name for this marshy district is Shagerat El Ashera, and Dinka Loing Shuk.

Debeik 2 386

Shagerat El Ashera or Loing Shuk (opposite Kaka) — —

Ajok 2¾ 388¾ Skirting an open marshy (in rains) plain on right and following line of trees on left, Dinka village named Ajok is reached. Tracks now become numerous and ill defined, and one was followed which led across an open marshy (in rains) plain to the Nile 2 miles N. of Kaka, wood station, known as Hellet El Nyam Nyam; the village is situated close to the river bank.

Kaka, old wood station 6¼ 405

43.—RENK to opposite KODOK (DUNJOL) (R. B.).

By Captain H. H. Wilson, December, 1902, January and February, 1903.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Renk — — Track taken depends on the time of the year. Up to January inland track must be followed owing to water on the lower.

Telegraph Hill 1 1 On sandy hill near river; village of Abd El Salam, a refugee Dinka from Bahr El Ghazal. From here the track follows the telegraph line for some miles.

Khor Deleib ½ 1½ Merely a dry ditch in the dry season; another dry branch is passed about 300 yards further on. Country here is open grass land; few small trees.

2½ 4 Thin forest of laot thorn bush and small heglig trees.

Gaikwach 3 7 A village of the Aku district, Sheikh Awat Wad Dual. Another small village 300 yards further on.

1½ 8½ Position of old Dinka village.

Kelang 2½ 11 Small village of this name, left.

Loingwen ½ 11½ Beginning of village of Loingwen, which comprises five small ones, all under Sheikh Bakhit Niok. From here along the lower road there are no villages before Elwat, and travellers must halt near water.

Bangdit 1½ 13 Sandy debba; no habitations. Scene of a former fight between Dinkas and Government troops. The track now descends to the bank of the khor that divides Island of Gaza-el-Abiad from the mainland and runs for the next 5 miles on high sandy ridge within 500 yards of the water. Guinea fowl and gazelle in abundance; a few tetel seen, and tracks of antelope, hippo, and buffalo. A good deal of kittr near track since Bangdit. No large trees.

Lardbiu 2½ 15½ Sandy debba on left.

2½ 18 Good camping ground.

Abiad Shwai 1 19 High sandy debba, which used to be covered with big tamarind trees which have now gone. Shortest track is now along telegraph line, but is probably impassable in the rains. Leave khor on right. Country bushy with small heglig trees and some kittr.

3¾ 22¾ Sandy hill on right. Track now crosses open plain of black cotton soil, covered with rank grass.

Elwat 5¼ 28 Beginning of Elwat, district of Gi-el. Head Sheikh, Salem Banga.

1 29 Salem’s own village, about 2 miles from the river. This is the first meshra since leaving Renk. High debba between this village and the river.

From Elwat the track runs alternately through open ground and patches of bush and red talh to Anak.

Anak 5½ 34½ Village of Gi-el district. Three small villages. The local Sheikh Ayik Wad Dok. Track now runs through bush and thick forest for many miles. Lower track deserted by Dinkas, who follow the line now, as being shorter.

Mabiu 3½ 38 High debba on right on edge of khor. Track along the khor is close to line here; now get into the land of big trees.

Dungbiagadet 1½ 39½ Debba on right.

Allal 2½ 42 Debba. Beginning of Allal district, which exists in name only. Arab name Tereiba. Many thick dom palms.

1¼ 43¼ Debba Allal.

Ragal 1¼ 44½ Beginning of district of Ragal. No people.

Debba Ragal 1¼ 45¾ Debba Ragal, about 200 yards from khor. Little game seen here, though plenty of fresh tracks of elephant, buffalo, &c.

Kefali ¼ 46 Debba. Many dom palms. This was site of old Dinka village. Open park land, which soon changes to very thick forest; open again after 1 mile.

2 48 First view of Jebel Ahmed Agha from track.

1 49 Forest of red talh; old Dinka elephant pits, and many skulls of these beasts.

3¼ 52¼ Track divides, one going on to the jebel and the other eastwards—inland. This latter goes to the Dinka district of Baanwen, which lies up Khor Rau. A track used to exist to Goz Kash-Kash, but is now said to be “dead.”

Khor Rau ¼ 52½ Khor Rau, about ¼ mile beyond bend in the telegraph line; 40-feet waterway, 3 feet deep; unfordable for loaded transport animals on account of mud (December).

Jebel Ahmed Agha 2 54½ The route followed will be seen by comparison to be several miles shorter than the old track previously sketched by other officers. Shortest track is now along line, though the going on the lower tortuous native track is better.

Goz Unaché 2¼ 56¾ High ridge of ground on left, used to be thickly populated by Kwach Dinkas. Whole track is through dense forest of heglig, sidr, kuk, kittr, and talh, except at Mile 62, where there is a broad open plain.

5¼ 62

Meshra Zeraf 7⅝ 69⅝ Also called Mukhada Zeraf. No Dinka villages here, though there are some old cattle zeribas. These change yearly—last year’s spot was called Anambul. Some Dinka refugees are, however, going to build this year on the meshra, which is well suited for purposes of being irrigated by shadufs or sakias. This is the first meshra since Elwat, and the last until Kaka old wood station, though in the dry season Meshra Rom becomes a meshra.

Jungle around Meshra Zeraf is mostly kittr.

Khor Makwé 1¾ 71⅜ 600-800 yards wide, and even in dry season impassable, for some way up. In dry season a track exists from here to Kaka wood station by the river bank. The track to the Dinka villages, however, runs up this khor till Mile 76⅛, when the track leaves the khor and runs off southwards over a grass plain. Khor Makwé runs on to Aturuk, a deserted Dinka village.

4¾ 76⅛

Khor Turiak 1½ 77⅝ Track runs along this khor, and 1 mile further on crosses it. Arab name for this khor is Fo-alig.

¾ 78⅜ Enter forest now, which consists of trees and kittr bush, alternately with occasional patches of park-like land, for the next 7½ miles. Khor Turiak is on the left of track till spot where track crosses it, and this khor winds about on right of track till Mile 89⅛.

Gi-ka-kiu 11¾ 89⅛ This is the chief village of Rom, and this is the name generally used, though the people speak of the grazing grounds near the river as Rom, probably denoting that it is the grazing of the Rom people. Sheikh Jok Wad Ageir.

Debba Fajak 4 93⅛ Site of old village.

Kolerang 1¼ 94⅝ Small village, part of Rom.

Bafing 1 95⅝ Small village, part of Rom. Trees on horizon. Cross khor here.

2¾ 98⅜ Cattle zeriba left, belongs to Fiti (see later).

Gio 1¼ 100⅝ Large village of Gio, of district of Ageir, also called Faloich (name of the spot). Village of the Head Sheikh of Ageir, Akol Wad Shol. Good wells here that suffice for the needs of all the inhabitants all the year round, but not for all their cattle. From Gio the track runs W. to Demtemma along a well-defined ridge for several miles; villages cluster thickly along this ridge. Khor Kayaluk runs on left of track.

1½ 102⅛ One of the villages of Beia can be seen from here left. Trees 2 miles off right. Thick bush 1 mile left on other side of khor.

Debba Mioriak 2 104⅛ Debba Mioriak on left.

Ai-yowel ¾ 104⅞ Village of Ageir on right with one big tree on east edge. Village of Kil 1½ miles off half-right. Village of Makwé is behind Kil in the forest.

Jung-yom 1½ 106⅝ Village, part of Ageir, on right. Good wells, ¾ mile off on left in bed of khor, available at all period of dry seasons. Travelling is now most uninteresting, no villages and hardly a tree to be seen.

Debba Fadiet 4 110⅝ Site of an old village. Vast grass plain on every side; not a tree or a bush to be seen, even on the horizon.

Debba Fojbe 3¼ 113⅞ Site of another old village.

Demtemma 7 120⅞ Situated in belt of trees on river bank. Was till recently a police post, but latter has now been moved to Melut, 3 miles down stream, to where the telegraph office is.

1½ 122⅜ Track crosses dry khor which would be a considerable obstacle in the rains.

1⅝ 124 Cattle zeriba of Beia on banks of Khor Adar—which is 60 yards wide here and 4 feet deep, muddy bottom, clean banks. A big debba on south side of the khor, and 1 mile from the mouth of the khor. Broad swamp on right of track.

2⅝ 126⅝ Track descends to river bank; thick bush most of the way on left of track.

Tiang-rial 4⅜ 131 A cattle zeriba of Beia left. Backwater or small lake between track and river. Island in river, north end.

½ 131½ Thick bush left.

½ 132 End of backwater. March on river bank; track winds along river bank, occasionally through very bad kittr bush, which can be avoided in places by marching along the foreshore.

5⅜ 137⅜ Big ardeib tree—conspicuous landmark; backwater between tree and river. After 2 miles the bush ceases, and track lies over an open grass plain.

4¼ 141⅝ Cattle zeriba of village of Bekjuka (Beia). Name of locality Niayok. Khor Awilwil starts here and runs between track and river all the way to just south of Fashoda.

1¾ 143⅜ Cattle zeriba of Bawen and Addora, of district of Ni-el. There are three other zeribas between these last two points.

Mialek 3¾ 147⅛ Cattle zeriba of Bawen (Ni-el).

Fanomdit 2½ 149⅝ Debba and cattle zeriba of district of Dunjol.

Faloich 1 150⅝ Debba and cattle zeriba of Ni-el.

Wunakoch ½ 151⅛ Cattle zeriba of Dunjol.

¾ 151⅞ Cattle zeriba of Bawen. Bush on right between track and khor.

Jomweira — — Cattle zeriba of Dunjol 100 yards further on. Track now crosses broad shallow khor 2 miles wide.

1 152⅞ Bush right; grass plain left.

½ 153⅜ Track enters bush right, leaving khor left. Forest of red talh and heglig, which continues 2½ miles to Mile 157⅛.

Faldiar Rowe 3¾ 157⅛ Cattle zeriba of Dunjol Track leaving this zeriba crosses a shallow khor and passes through a thin belt of forest on to the bank of khor.

Khor Awilwil 1⅛ 158¼ Awilwil, from whence Kodok can be seen for the first time. Track runs southwards along bank of khor for ¼ mile, when all bush ceases, and path is over vast, open, undulating plain.

Debba Denkar ½ 158¾ Good high debba.

1⅛ 159⅞ Track bifurcates here, one following khor and going to Ayung’s zeriba (see later), and the other running through the Dinka villages of Dunjol. The former track is the shorter by 2 or 3 miles.

Amai-rial (opposite to Kodok) 1¾ 161⅝ Village of Dunjol district which is spread over a vast plain opposite Kodok.

Amaal 1¼ 162⅞

Fiuweia 1⅛ 164¼

Ateptiap 3⅜ 167⅜

Khor Wol ⅛ 167½ Track crosses this khor which has water in it in pools and excavations for 10 miles up. Can be ascended by small steamers at high Nile. French steamers used to ascend in 1898.

1⅜ 168⅞ Large cattle zeriba of Sheikh Ayung Wad Agwot, head of Dunjol. This spot is almost due south of Kodok. Between the river and this track is a broad swamp and the formidable khor Awilwil. From here a track runs inland through the remaining villages of Dunjol, keeping in touch with Khor Awilwil all the way, passing through or past the following villages and places:—

Mile 2¼. Wunfit, debba with few trees.

„ 3¼. Faiung, village.

„ 4⅜. Wumakoch, village.

„ 6¼. Tallen, „

„ 8¼. Fanakwé, „

„ 9¾. Fakok, „

„ 10½. Ang-ak, „

„ 12. Fobodiet, „

„ 14. Temohuk, „

„ 16. „

eventually running to the Sobat River, which it joins near the Dinka district of Gnok.

1¼ 170⅛ Cattle zeriba of Fakwé.

Diem Ajak ¾ 170⅞ Debba 600 yards right. Bush commences 200 yards further on. Khor Awilwil runs into the Nile somewhere here by native report.

1¾ 172⅝ Cattle zeriba of Fadweia. Track is good and winds along the khor, which runs from near where Awilwil joined the Nile to the south.

Wuntao 2¼ 174⅞ Cattle zeriba of Dunjol. Name of the locality as well as the village to which the people belong. The Shilluk Mek’s village is due west.

Meshra Merial 2¾ 177⅝ Said to be practicable all the year round as a means of communication between Dinka and Shilluk banks. Shilluk village Kwom opposite. Great numbers of partridges all along here, affording excellent sport walking them up.

The track along here is all good going and would be quite passable in the rains.

2¼ 179⅞ Cattle zeriba of Fadok (Dunjol).

Diwot 1¼ 181⅛ First Shilluk village met with on this (east) bank. End of the Dinka country on the river.

44.—JEBEL AHMED AGHA to AWITONG and KASH-KASH.

By Captain H. H. Wilson, January, 1903.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Jebel Ahmed Agha — — The track up Khor Rau runs northwards for 2 miles and then crosses the khor, and turning eastwards follows it closely. Country well wooded, though in places the forest gives place to bush.

2 2

Gaibek 7¾ 9¾ A village of the Dinka district of Gi-el, sub-division Baanwen. The whole of this country is in certain years under water, not from the local rains, but from the overflow of Khor Rau, which brings water down from the Abyssinian mountains. After such a flood, extraordinary dura crops are harvested, being sown as late as October, when the waters subside.

Debba Mabiu 5⅛ 14⅞ On R. bank of khor, which is here some 60 yards wide, with pools of water in places. Scene of fight between Dinkas and Government troops in reign of Said Pasha.

¾ 15⅝ Cattle zeriba of Kwach, part of Gi-el. Lake filled with weeds and ambach.

Birket Rau 1 16⅝ Another cattle zeriba of Kwach, and just up stream a large open lake or swamp, filled up with weeds, &c. Quantities of wildfowl and snipe; also lion, giraffe and antelope, all of which were seen.

From here a track runs inland to the Dinka villages, and a track exists up the khor, the ultimate destination of which it is impossible to judge from native reports. Track inland very bad, cracked cotton soil, and long, rank, unburnt grass, which, bent down by the strong north wind, presents all its spikes at the face of anyone marching northwards.

Awitong 6 22⅝ Built on a mound which is surrounded by water in flood years. Country wooded, small trees.

3 25⅝ Very fine dura cultivation extending for miles. Large white dura; one “head” which was counted contained 2,600 grains.

Dry lake ¾ 26⅜ Extends some miles and track winds along it. Many fruit-bearing sidr trees in bed of it.

Water hole 1 27⅜ Situated in thick forest; Dinkas in zeriba near here water their cattle from this and do not go to river until it is dry. Elephants had drunk here the previous night.

Woniat ¾ 28⅛ Cattle zeriba of these Dinkas. From here a good track goes to Jebel Gerawi, two days’ march; no water to be got on route.

Debba Fobung 2¼ 30⅜ High sandy debba, from here a small hill can be seen, Jokdit, direction was pointed out by a Dinka up a tree; bearing 355°.

¼ 30⅝ Water hole at N., foot of debba, dries up latter on.

Track is now excellent, running through sandy goz, ground high and forest of fine trees (sabakh). This road is passable all through the rains, and devoid of long grass and mud. Leads to Renk.

1 31⅝ Two small dry ponds.

Goz Kash-Kash 2¼ 33⅞ Heavy sandy ground; very fine forest of big trees. Six wells dug in the sand, water said to be available all the year round. One huge ardeib tree by wells. Many trees called “dorod” by Arabs, “gia” by Dinkas. An old track runs to the river on the Ahmed Agha—Renk road, which it joins at the spot where the old Dinka elephant pits are, but it is now disused and choked with grass.

45.—ITINERARY UP KHOR ADAR.

By Captain H. H. Wilson, January, 1903.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Mouth of Khor Adar — — Khor at mouth is about 40 yards wide and several feet deep, the depth being, from about 100 yards up-stream, uniformly 4 to 5 feet. Dinkas say there is a current in the rains.

1¼ 1¼ Cattle zeriba of Beia R.; bank; big Debba L.

¾ 2 Cross a small khor that runs in from N.

3¾ 5¾ Cattle zeriba on left bank. Khor bends off to the R., and is joined again at 6¾ miles, when track follows it. Cattle zeriba on L. bank ¾ mile away. Country is open grass plain, except close to mouth of khor where it is wooded, and a few patches of scrub here and there along the banks.

1 6¾

1 7¾ Cattle zeriba Beia on R. bank. Khor bends off and is joined again at 9¾ miles, from where it makes a big bend southwards, and is not seen again till Rengachuk is passed.

2 9¾

Going so far very bad over much cracked soil and few shade trees.

Track now runs over a rank grass plain to the first Dinka village at

Tedao 8½ 18¼ District of Beia; Sheikh Amwot wad Aiwel. From here villages can be seen ahead on all sides. Few trees, practically a vast plain, intersected with depressions that in the dry seasons are hard to define, and which in the rains might be serious obstacles.

Bekjuka 2½ 20¾ Another village of Beia.

Abai-at 2¼ 23 Village of Ni-el; mostly cattle thieves.

Jokdwet 1¾ 24¾ Village of Jokdwet, of district Ni-el.

Wuntao 1¾ 26½ „ „ „ „

2½ 29 Fairly thick trees and bush lasting 1 mile.

Rengachuk 5¼ 34¼ Village of Ni-el, of the Addora people. Consists of two portions. From here track runs down to khor again.

2½ 36¾ At this point the khor is of greater dimensions than at the mouth, being 60 yards and 5 to 6 feet deep; choked however with long reeds and sudd.

¾ 37½ Track here crosses a small khor, dry in January.

Khor Niagweia ¼ 37¾ This is another important khor that is reported to come from the Burun country, but it was reported dry a few miles up (January, 1903). It is probably the khor shown on some maps as “Ez Zamma,” a name which is not recognised by any inhabitants, 60 to 100 yards wide and 4 to 5 feet deep.

Track now runs through jungle for 3 miles.

Khor Adar 7¾ 45½ Khor Adar is met here again, having, since fording Khor Niagweia, been on the R. at varying distances. Track now follows it. Country here is very uninteresting, no game and few trees, but the ever present long grass. Path meets the khor at

Raduk ¼ 45¾ Width here 40 yards, depth 4 feet; track cuts across a bend and meets khor at

Gwatan 3¼ 49 Cattle zeriba of Ni-el; people mostly wanted by the police, and who have retired to a safe distance. Khor close on L.

2¼ 51¼ Track crosses a khor that is dry 100 yards up.

Many elephant tracks on edge of khor, but made in the rains. From here a track exists through a country of unburnt elephant grass, the actual ground being well-nigh impassable, being ploughed up by elephants, and overgrown with a tangle of vegetation, through which nothing but fire or elephants could make a path. Looking from the top of an high ant-heap, the country is seen to be more wooded inland.

Khor Benatat 7 58¼ Is said to join Khor Adar about 7 miles up. Dinkas also state that two other khors joins Khor Adar ahead, one from S. Khor Aturuk, and one from N. Khor Fao-eng.

From here to the Nuer country is variously described as being from 2 to 5 days.

46.—J. JEROK, viâ J. ERI, KILWEGA, TO WAD DELUKA (about 52 miles S.E. of Melut).

By Major G. de H. Smith, May 1904.

N.B.—This is not a route that is much used, but it was opened up by cutting the bush, etc., in May, 1904, with a view to its possibly being suitable as a trade route from Beni Shangul to the White Nile at Melut. The going is nearly all over bad cotton soil and the water supply is at present very uncertain. It would no doubt be difficult during the rainy season.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

J. Jerok — — Site of Military Post. From here route to J. Maiak is that taken by the Wad Mahmud expedition in February, 1904. Water in pools in Khor Ahmar 1½ miles before reaching this hill.

J. Maiak 19 19

J. Eri 11 30 Pond of rain-water, very uncertain, about 1½ miles from the hill.

Villages of Gum Gum people 9 39 About 7 miles from Eri, a khor with rain-water (May) is crossed, and further on, the villages of Gum Gum people are reached. They drink from pools to the east of Khor Gemmeiza and, at certain seasons, from rain pools about 1 mile W. of villages.

K. Gemmeiza 8 47 Water in pool in khor. A rain pool is passed about 4 miles further on, and the villages of Burun from Gum Gum, called Kilwega, are reached.

Kilwega 7 54

Sami (K. Gemmeiza) 10 64 K. Gemmeiza now runs, in a very winding bed, a mile or two to the south of and parallel to the track. A path has been cut to a watering place in the khor, called Sami. Past old burnt village of Kurara Buruns, who now occupy village on new road-cultivation here, and water used by people from J. Ulu in dry season. Khor very narrow and covered up with willows; on both sides are swamps. Khor losing traces of sand. Two water holes here could be much improved.

From Sami, track cut along high ground until Ulu track is met, going to

Khamiret El Tin 14 78 Khamiret El Tin, about 4 miles off. This is a good track and much used but very tortuous, and follows along ridge of high ground. Before this, at 3rd mile, a track from Ulu to Um Adil on Khor Sami is crossed; this is apparently called Um Ebeil on Pruyssenaere’s route.

About one hour from Khamiret El Tin, track leaves khor and goes along a depression in which, later on, the 7 Hafiras of Khamiret El Tin village are. These are roofed-in ponds of marsh water and zeribaed to prevent animals, etc., drinking; water unpleasant; 5 of these now full of water.

Khamiret El Kurda 6 84 There are two water holes in Khor Sida, which is the same as Khor Sami, S.W. of village and used by some people who live there. This is better water. From here 6 miles off is Khamiret El Kurda; people from here now drink at Kumara Hellet Bishara. These villages are under Sheikh Ata Mannan.

Kumara Hellet Bishara 7 91 Khor, after Khamiret El Kurda, as also here, goes into Farashes and is apparently lost.

Hellet Bitter 12 103 From here, 12 miles, general direction S., is Hellet Bitter; water not obtainable here all the year round; people drink at Bishara, etc., according to time of year.

Hellet Banjom 6 109 No water here at present; road bad going.

Wad Deluka 14 123 About 14 miles off, in S.W. direction. Water here in two wells, one has fallen in.

Melut 52 (?) 175 (?) On the White Nile.

47.—URYONG on the SOBAT to the WHITE NILE opposite KODOK.

By Major C. W. Gwynn, C.M.G., D.S.O.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Uryong — — Uryong is a small Dinka village on the right bank. From this point there is a much used short cut straight across to Kodok. The road from Uryong as far as the beginning of the Dunjol villages must be almost entirely under water at high Nile, but even then the Dinkas can find the track, which is marked here and there by small mud heaps. In the dry season from Uryong to Dunjol is generally traversed by night, as there is no water obtainable till the Dunjol wells are reached. From Uryong the road traverses open marsh land for about 2½ miles and then enters a belt of thick white thorn about 3 miles wide. After this the country gets more and more bare, and for the last half of the way to Dunjol there are no trees at all.