THE KITCHEN. (continued 12)

Soufflé.—(a) Take 6 oz. grated cheese, 2 eggs, 1 oz. butter, a small teacupful of milk, and beat up all together in a basin; then put them in a small baking dish and bake a light brown. (H. E. C.)

(b) In a medium-sized round-bottomed saucepan, melt 1 oz. butter, add 1 oz. flour, and ¼ pint milk, 3 oz. grated Parmesan, salt, cayenne or pepper to taste, and boil well. Then stir in the yolks of 2 or 3 eggs, and beat the mixture thoroughly with a wooden spoon. Whip the whites of 3 or 4 eggs to the stiffest froth, and stir very lightly but thoroughly into the saucepan. Bake immediately in a very hot oven for 20 minutes, and serve at once in the dish in which it is cooked. The mixture can also be steamed for the same time or rather longer, or it can be baked for 5 minutes in paper cases. If it is baked as a whole, use earthenware made thoroughly hot before the soufflé is put in. Pretty red pans can be bought quite suitable to send to table, and as the great difficulty with soufflés is to get them to table before they cool and sink, it is very advantageous to have some pan that retains heat longer than the tin commonly used. The pan or tin must be well greased. Fresh-grated Parmesan is the best cheese for the purpose, or sometimes Gruyère for a change, but any dry well-flavoured cheese can be used. (E. A. B.)

Stewed.—Cut ½ lb. Cheshire and Gloucester cheese in thin slices, put it into a stewpan with a little ale or white wine, and keep it stirring over the fire till it is melted; then put in a spoonful of mustard, the yolks of 2 eggs; beat up, stir it a moment over the fire, then put it in a small deep dish or soup plate, and brown it with a very hot iron or salamander; have ready thin toasted sippets or fried ones, cut triangularly. Stick them all round, and in the middle. Send it up hot and quick.

Straws (Bâtons).—(a) Equal proportions of butter, flour, and cheese seasoned with salt and cayenne, and just enough butter to roll the mixture into a good paste. Cut the straws the desired size with a paste cutter, and bake them in a quick oven till they are quite crisp and a golden blown colour. The ordinary American cheese makes them as well as any other.

(b) 4 oz. flour, 4 oz. butter, 4 oz. Parmesan or other good cheese, grated, a little salt, and as much cayenne pepper as would cover a sixpenny piece. First mix the dry ingredients, and then proceed as for puff paste; cut the mixture into very narrow straws 4 in. long, round them at the sides with a knife, and bake a pale gold colour; serve hot. (F. C.)

(c) ½ lb. dried flour, ¼ lb. butter, ¼ lb. grated Parmesan or Gruyère cheese, 1 teaspoonful flour of mustard, 1 saltspoonful cayenne, and 1 saltspoonful salt. Rub the butter into the flour, then mix the whole well together; beat the whites of 2 eggs with ¼ pint cold water, and stir in enough to form a firm paste; knead the paste well, then roll it out ⅛ in. thick, and cut it into straw-like strips about 5 in. long. Bake in a quick oven till of a pale brown colour—about 5 minutes. Pile them on a dish prettily, and serve either hot or cold. Must be kept in a dry place.

(d) ¼ lb. Parmesan cheese, ¼ lb. flour, 2 oz. butter, ½ teaspoonful dry mustard, and a little cayenne pepper; grate the cheese, mix it and the flour into a paste with as small a quantity of water as possible, and the butter, which will be nearly sufficient to make the paste without water; roll and cut as thick as straws, and mark with the marker in stripes; bake a nice brown. This quantity will probably last for some time, and can be kept in a tin. When required for use re-warm before the fire, which crisps them better than re-warming in the oven.

(e) ¼ lb. butter, ¼ lb. Parmesan cheese grated, ¼ lb. fine flour, well mixed with 1 small saltspoonful cayenne pepper, 1 egg, and a little salt. Roll it out into a thin paste, and bake a light brown. Cut it into a neat form, and serve quite hot on a napkin.

(f) Make a paste with 6 oz. flour, 4 oz. butter, 3 oz. grated Parmesan cheese, moisten with a little cream or milk, season with salt, white pepper, and cayenne; roll it out thin, cut into narrow strips, and bake in a moderate oven.

Tartlets.—Make a paste with 1 oz. butter, 2 oz. flour, the yolk of 1 egg, a little water, a pinch of salt, roll it out to the thickness of ⅛ in., and line some patty pans with it. Take 2 oz. finely grated Parmesan cheese, beat it up in a bowl with the yolks of 2 eggs; add pepper, salt, cayenne, and nutmeg, according to taste—very little of the two latter; then work in 3 tablespoonfuls cream, fill each patty pan with the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven till done.

Tomato.—Take some tomatoes (the tinned ones do very well), chop them finely, cut up some cheese in small pieces, mix with a little milk, and season with pepper and salt. Have some slices of toast ready, and when the mixture is soft pour it over the toast, and serve very hot. Time, about 10 minutes. (E. Brace.)

Toast (Rôties).—(a) Grate some rich cheese, add pepper to taste, a beaten egg, and sufficient milk to make it of the consistency of thick cream. Warm the mixture on the fire, and when quite hot pour it over some slices of hot buttered toast; serve immediately.

(b) English Rarebit.—Toast a slice of bread on both sides, put it into a cheese plate, pour a glass of red wine over it, and put it to the fire till it soaks up the wine; then cut some cheese in very thin slices, and put it thick on the bread; put it in a tin oven before the fire, toast it till it is brown, and serve it up hot. Or this way: Toast your bread, soak it in the wine, and set it before the fire to keep hot; cut the cheese in very thin slices, rub some butter over a pewter plate, lay the cheese on it, pour in 2-3 spoonfuls white wine, set it over a chafing dish of coals, and cover it with another plate for 2-3 minutes; uncover it, and stir it till it is done and well mixed, put in a little mustard, put it on the bread, brown it with a hot iron or salamander, and send it away hot.

(c) Scotch Rarebit.—Toast a piece of bread nicely on both sides, and butter it; cut a slice of cheese nearly the size of the bread, put it in a cheese toaster, and toast one side, then put the toasted side on the bread, and toast the other side nicely.

(d) Welsh Rarebit.—Slice some rich cheese into a stewpan, pour in a very little old ale, and set over the fire to simmer. When the cheese is quite melted pour it on to some hot toast, and serve quickly. Mustard and pepper should be spread on the cheese before serving. Some use butter, but ale is far nicer.

(e) Ditto.—Take rather a thick slice of either Cheddar or Gloucester cheese, cut into small pieces, put it into a small saucepan, with 1 teaspoonful mustard, 2 tablespoonfuls ale, a very little salt, and a small piece of butter; let it get well heated, stir it up well till it becomes the consistency of thick cream. Pour the mixture on a slice of toast cut into four, dredge a little pepper on the top and serve on a table napkin, very hot.

(f) Ditto.—Use a small iron saucepan. Grease with butter all the inside; then pour 3-4 tablespoonfuls good rich milk or cream into it; then 3-4 large mustardspoonfuls of made mustard; then about ½ oz. butter in small pieces; then about a ¼ lb. good Cheddar cheese; then dust the whole over with ground black pepper, and be not afraid of putting on too much pepper. Set the saucepan aside. Place a dish before the fire which is to go to table. Take a round of a loaf of bread, cut very thick and the hard crust cut off; toast, and then butter one side only, and put it, toasted side downwards, on the dish before the fire. Now set the little saucepan on the fire, and stir its contents with an iron spoon till the cheese is melted. Immediately then pour it on the bread which is before the fire and send to table; of course, with hot plates. (L.)

(g) Ditto.—Make some slices of toast about ¼ in. thick, trim off the crusts, and spread them with butter. Slice very thinly some rich cheese (about ¼ lb.) into a stewpan, add 1 small teaspoonful flour of mustard, a little salt and cayenne, ½ oz. butter, and pour over it a very little ale or porter, let it simmer until quite hot, pour it on the toast, and serve immediately.

Eggs

Eggs (Œufs).—Few English cooks have any idea of the number of ways in which these nutritious articles may be dressed.

À la Bonne Femme.—Slice an onion, fry it in butter to a light brown, add a teaspoonful of vinegar; butter a dish, spread the onion and vinegar over it, break the eggs into it, put the dish into the oven; when the eggs are done strew fried breadcrumbs over them, and serve very hot.

À la Maître d’Hôtel.—(a) Make a sauce with boiling milk, rather highly seasoned and thickened with butter and flour and an onion chopped small; let it simmer gently for ½ hour, then add 2 oz. fresh butter and some finely chopped parsley; next lay in 4-6 hard-boiled eggs, cut in quarters or sliced, heat them through carefully, and serve very hot; squeeze in the juice of a lemon just before serving.

(b) Take 6 eggs, boil hard, and when ready plunge them into cold water to enable you to take off the shells easily; this must be carefully done so as not to damage the appearance of the eggs; then cut them into rounds—each, if properly managed, will cut 4. Have ready a sauce made as follows: Add to ½ pint ordinary good white sauce, a slight sprinkling of nutmeg, some very finely chopped parsley, say a teaspoonful, and about a saltspoonful of the green part of some shallots also very finely chopped. Put the eggs into this, make them hot, and serve heaped high on a dish, with the sauce poured round and over the eggs.

À la Tartuffe.—Fry lightly some bacon; when done, lay it in a dish that will stand the fire, pour over it 2 spoonfuls strong stock flavoured with wine, and break in carefully 5 or 6 eggs, dusting them with pepper and salt. Let them cook over a slow fire, and pass a heated shovel over them to set the whites. The yolks must not harden.

And Artichokes.—Strip the green leaves from 6 artichokes, and boil the bottoms in hard water for ½ hour, boil 3 eggs for 10-12 minutes, cut them across, and place on each artichoke half an egg, leaving the round end uppermost; put them each on a small round of toast, which must be cut with a round cutter, and serve on a very hot dish, with a little good melted butter or some rich gravy.

And Caviar.—Cut some small slices of French rolls into rounds, lightly butter them, then spread some very fresh Russian caviar on them, add a sprinkle of lemon juice. Now cut some hard-boiled eggs into rounds, and lay a round on each round of French roll.

And Mushrooms.—(a) 1 lb. mushrooms, 2 raw eggs, 2 hard-boiled, 3 oz. butter, 2 tablespoonfuls mushroom ketchup, 1 of vinegar, 1 onion, a little grated nutmeg, mashed potatoes. Peel the mushrooms and put into a rather large stewpan, with the butter, a small onion minced fine, a little grated nutmeg, 2 tablespoonfuls mushroom ketchup, 1 of vinegar, a little salt and pepper; let them stew about 20 minutes with the lid on, when done, add the yolks of 2 eggs to thicken the sauce, but do not let them boil after the eggs are in, or the sauce will curdle. Have ready some nicely mashed potatoes and 2 hard-boiled eggs, put a wall of the potatoes round an entrée dish, pour some of the sauce in the centre of the dish, then arrange the mushrooms piled high in the middle of the dish, and the remainder of the sauce over, and ornament the dish with the eggs cut in quarters or in slices, and serve. (E. A. Robbins.)

(b) Put 2 oz. butter into a stewpan; break over it 4 fresh eggs; add 1 tablespoonful chopped mushrooms, ½ teaspoonful salt, ¼ ditto pepper. Stir this mixture over a clear fire continually with a wooden spoon till it is of a thickish consistency, and serve very hot, poured over hot buttered toast.

And Olives.—4 or 5 eggs, 4 large or 6 small olives, 1 slice ham, cooked, ½ oz. butter, a pinch of red pepper. Boil the eggs about 8 minutes, and put into cold water, as they will peel better. Pare the olives, and mince them, also the ham. Now take the shells off the eggs, cut a small piece off each end to make them stand. Now cut in halves, take out the yolks carefully, and put in the mortar with the ham and olives; pound to a smooth paste with ½ oz. butter, season with a little red pepper, and fill the whites of the eggs. Put a napkin on a dish, stand the half eggs on it, having smoothed over the top, and add some strips of toast. Or they can be served without the napkin and a little tartar sauce poured round them. The eggs should stand up like little cups.

And Sorrel.—Boil a number of eggs in their shells for 3-4 minutes, then dip them into cold water, carefully remove the shells, and place them again in hot water to make them quite hot; drain, and serve them on the following purée with sippets of bread fried in butter round the dish. Pick and wash a quantity of sorrel, put it into a saucepan with a little water and some salt, when thoroughly done drain off all the moisture and pass the sorrel through a hair sieve. Amalgamate a piece of butter and 1 tablespoonful flour in a saucepan on the fire, put in the sorrel and stir well for some minutes, then add pepper and salt to taste, and the yolk of 1 egg beaten up with a little cold stock and strained.

And Tomatoes.—Boil some ripe tomatoes, and pulp them through a coarse sieve. Mix this pulp with 3 or 4 eggs (according to the size of your dish), a little very finely chopped onion (some persons like freshly-cut garlic rubbed across the pan instead), pepper and salt, and fry all together lightly; a little chopped ham or cold boiled potato may be added if liked.

Au Gratin.—(a) Wash, bone, and mince finely an anchovy; mince some parsley and chives, or shallot; mix all these well with some fine breadcrumbs, season highly with pepper and salt, and a dash of nutmeg; place some of this mixture and a little piece of butter in as many small cups (that will stand the fire) as you wish to cook eggs. Set them over a clear, gentle fire, and when this gratin is nearly done, break an egg gently into each cup. When done, pass a hot shovel over each to set the whites, dust over them a little salt and pepper, and serve them in their pots, very hot. Bacon minced may be substituted for the anchovy, but then less butter will be required; chopped mushrooms are also a good addition.

(b) Cut some hard-boiled eggs in slices, and lay them on a well-buttered dish, with grated Parmesan cheese, black pepper, and the least bit of powdered nutmeg; sprinkle some baked breadcrumbs over all, put the dish in the oven, and serve as soon as the contents begin to colour.

(c) Slices of hard-boiled eggs laid on a dish with baked breadcrumbs, grated Parmesan cheese, pepper and salt, the least bit of nutmeg, and some butter; put into the oven, and serve as soon as they begin to take colour.

(d) Put into a dish that will bear the oven 1 tablespoonful flour, several yolks of eggs, a little very finely chopped parsley and shallot, some salt, pepper, and nutmeg; mix all well together, and put them into the oven just long enough to let the mixture attach itself to the dish. Then take it out, put a few bits of butter on this gratin, and break on it carefully the number of eggs you desire to cook, seasoning them with a little pepper and salt. Let them just simmer in the oven, and serve, while the yolks are still quite soft, with a garnish of either fried or fresh parsley. The dish which they are cooked in should be placed on a neatly folded napkin, and must be thus served.

Baked.—(a) Melt 1 oz. butter in a pie-dish, put the dish into the oven just to brown the butter, break 6 eggs separately into a cup and pour them carefully into the pie-dish; bake them for about 5 minutes or until the white is set, then sift a tablespoonful of fine breadcrumbs, which have been previously browned, over the eggs, through a tin strainer; warm over with a salamander and serve; garnish the dish with parsley.

(b) Beat up 4 eggs well, to each egg allow 2 tablespoonfuls new milk and ½ teaspoonful finely chopped parsley, seasoning with pepper and salt to taste. Melt some butter in an enamelled pie-dish, pour in the mixture, and bake quickly in a hot oven.

Bread.—1 pint sifted meal, nearly 1 pint buttermilk, 1 egg, a lump of lard the size of a small walnut, and 1 teaspoonful salt. Just before baking, add 1 teaspoonful soda dissolved in 2 tablespoonfuls warm water, and add 1 teaspoonful salt. If the milk is sweet, add 2 tablespoonfuls cream of tartar.

Buttered.—(a) Make a thick square of buttered toast, buttering it well on both sides, and cutting it into 4 or 6 pieces; let it stand before the fire to keep hot, but not sufficiently near to dry it up. Break 3 fresh eggs into a stewpan over the fire (both yolks and whites), having previously melted in it a piece of butter the size of a walnut; add a little salt, and 1 tablespoonful cream or good milk; stir it rapidly over the fire until it begins to thicken; then take it off and beat it until quite smooth; set it on the fire again, and keep stirring until it is very hot and thick. With a spoon heap this lightly up on to the square of buttered toast which has been keeping hot before the fire, making it stand as high as possible. Serve instantly.

(b) Boil 2 eggs hard. Let them get cold. Chop up yolks and whites finely, and spread them on hot buttered toast with pepper and salt to taste.

Curried.—(a) Boil 6 eggs quite hard, and when cold cut each into 4 pieces, so that they may stand on the dish with the points uppermost; lay aside. Fry 2 onions, shred very fine, in butter, add 1 tablespoonful powder, 2 oz. butter rolled in flour, and by degrees ½ pint veal stock; let the whole boil up for ¼ hour, then stir in very slowly 2 tablespoonfuls cream, simmer 5 minutes; put in the eggs and let them heat slowly for 4-5 minutes, and serve in the sauce with boiled rice.

(b) Cut an onion in very thin and very small slices; fry in butter, flour them while doing to thicken the butter; they must not burn. Take 1 tablespoonful curry powder, or be guided by the strength of it; place in a bowl, squeeze the juice of ½ lemon, add a pinch of salt, 1 teacupful rich gravy or stock, ½ teacupful milk or a little cream, stir all together well; boil some eggs hard, take off the shells, cut them into quarters or halves, stir your curry powder that has been mixed as before directed; let all boil together, and when boiling take off the fire and put in the eggs; serve in a deep dish, with snowballs of rice round. If the eggs are required to be soft, poach them instead of boiling hard.

(c) Slice 1 large or 2 small onions into rounds, and fry in a good quantity of butter until quite brown, but not in the least black; then add 2 tablespoonfuls good gravy, well freed from grease, and, when that has mixed nicely with the onions and butter, add 1 small teaspoonful good curry powder; thoroughly mix this with your gravy, &c., and avoid lumps; let all simmer gently for 10 minutes, then put in 6 hard-boiled eggs cut in rounds, and let them cook till thoroughly hot, serve either with rice round, or, as some like it better, with the rice on a separate dish. Salt to taste should, of course, be added to the above.

(d) Boil 6 eggs quite hard, shell them, and cut them up into thick rounds or pieces. Pile them in the middle of a small dish, with plain boiled rice arranged in a ring around them. Slice 2 or 3 onions, and fry them in a little butter, add 1-2 spoonfuls curry powder to 1 dessertspoonful flour, and with ½ pint water; pour them into the frying-pan. When the curry is made, pour over the eggs. Garnish with slices of lemon.

(e) For this dish the eggs must be boiled hard, the shells removed, and the eggs cut in halves. A good curry sauce, made after the proper Indian fashion, should have been prepared previously, and then heated up again, the eggs, while still hot from boiling, being placed with the halves upright in a hot dish, with the curry poured round, but not over them, the dish garnished with fried rice balls nicely browned, and plain boiled rice sent to table with it, but in a separate dish.

(f) Fry 2 onions in butter, with 1 tablespoonful curry powder and 1 pint good broth. Let it all stew till tender; then mix in a cup of cream (or milk thickened with arrowroot and a dust of sugar). Simmer a few minutes; then lay in 6-8 hard-boiled eggs, cut in half or quarters, and heat them through, but do not let it boil. If procurable, use coconut milk instead of cream. Serve with rice.

(g) Cut 2 onions in slices, and fry them to a light golden colour in plenty of butter, add 1 tablespoonful curry powder and a sprinkling of flour, moisten with a cupful of stock, and simmer gently for 10 minutes, then add 6 hard-boiled eggs cut in slices, simmer for a few minutes longer, and serve.

(h) Mix very smoothly some curry powder with nicely flavoured rich gravy, halve some hard-boiled eggs, take out the yolks, and beat them in a little of the gravy and curry powder; replace them into the whites, of which the under part must be cut a little to make them stand nicely in the dish. Simmer them in the rest of the gravy, thicken it with a little butter and flour, garnish with fried onions, and serve with boiled rice in a separate dish.

Devilled.—Boil a number of eggs very hard; when cold, remove the shells, and cut each egg in half. Take out the yolks and pound them in a mortar with a few boned anchovies, pepper, salt, and a pinch of dry mustard, moistening with a little butter. Fill the empty whites cut in halves with this mixture, and arrange in a dish garnished with parsley. This is a great favourite at Cinderella suppers.

En Matelote.—Put a good piece of butter or lard into a saucepan, cook in it several—about 1 doz.—small onions whole; let them only slightly colour, add a little white wine and stock in equal quantities, pepper and salt to taste, also a sprinkling of nutmeg and a small bunch of sweet herbs. Let all simmer gently for about 15 minutes, then reduce, strain off the herbs and the onions, reserving the latter; break as many eggs as you may require, very carefully so as not to break the yolks, into the sauce, and poach them one after the other. When sufficiently cooked, serve them on a hot dish with the onions (whole) round them, thicken the sauce to a proper consistency, pour over the eggs and serve at once with little fried sippets round.

Fried.—Parboil some well-washed rice in plain water, then simmer till quite done in some good gravy, with a very little curry powder. Serve with some fried eggs on the top.

Forced.—(a) Boil 4 or 5 eggs 10-15 minutes; when done put into cold water. When cold take off the shells, and cut in half lengthways, take out the yolks, and put in a mortar with 1 teaspoonful chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful lemon thyme, and ¼ teaspoonful green onion, all finely minced; 1 teaspoonful essence of anchovies, 1 grate of nutmeg, a little salt, a few grains of cayenne, and 1 oz. butter. Pound these ingredients well together; when quite smooth use this mixture to fill the whites of the eggs. Oil a border mould or shallow mould with funnel, put a little melted aspic in the bottom, let it set, and then put some of the half eggs on the aspic; then pour over them very gently some more of the aspic, let this set, and put on more of the eggs and more aspic; by this time the mould should be full; set on the ice or in a cool place to get firm till wanted, turn out in the usual way, and fill up the centre or form a border of small salad around, add a little oil and vinegar over, and serve.

(b) 10-12 eggs, 1 oz. truffles, ½ pint mushrooms, 1 blade of mace, a grate of nutmeg, 1 dessertspoonful parsley, a small slice of onion, 4 oz. butter, ¼ pint cream, a little good white stock, a small bunch of sweet herbs, 1 wineglass white wine, the juice of 1 lemon, or a little of the peel, a few slices of ham or tongue, pepper and salt. For the croustade have a stale quartern tin loaf rather close, pare off the crust, and with a sharp knife carve the crumb into the shape of a fluted cup or vase, make an incision all round the top about 1 in. from the outer edge, and after it is fried scoop out the middle carefully. The croustade should be fried in plenty of boiling lard in a large stewpan or frying kettle, and should be of a golden brown. When done drain it on a sieve or on a piece of white paper, and keep warm till wanted. Boil the eggs about 10 minutes, then put them into cold water. When cold shell carefully. Cut the eggs in half, take out the yolks, and put the whites aside till wanted. Mince very fine the parsley, truffles, mushrooms, onion, and a little of the ham separately, and then all together. Pound the mace, and put to it a grate of nutmeg. Chop the eggs a little, add them to the other ingredients in a stewpan, with 2 oz. butter, and a little pepper and salt. Stir over the fire a few minutes, then add the yolks of 2 uncooked eggs to bind the mixture. When it thickens, and seems cooked, turn it out on a plate. Fill the whites of the eggs with this mixture, and put the halves together to look like whole eggs. When they are all filled put them in a basin, and stand the basin in a little hot water to keep the eggs hot while you make the sauce. For this stir the remainder of the butter and a tablespoonful of flour over the fire. When the butter is dissolved stir into it a little white stock in which has been boiled a small bunch of sweet herbs, a small onion, a little thin lemon rind, and the cream. When it boils add to it the wine, lemon juice, a pinch of sugar, and pepper and salt to taste. Pile the eggs high in the croustade, and serve croustade with pieces of ham previously warmed, and the chopped truffles between the eggs; pour the sauce round the base and serve.

In Cases.—Oil some small paper cases as for ramakins, put into each a piece of butter the size of a hazel nut, with a small pinch of minced parsley, some pepper, salt, and the least bit of cayenne. Break an egg into each case, add a teaspoonful of grated Parmesan and a sprinkling of baked breadcrumbs. Put the cases in the oven for about 5 minutes, and serve. They may also be so prepared a number at a time in a silver dish, and served in it.

Nogg.—Beat up the yolks of 4 eggs with 4 dessertspoonfuls powdered sugar; add ½ tumblerful brandy gradually, a teaspoonful at a time, and beating continually; add a pint of rich cream gradually, and still beating: beat up the whites of two eggs separately and thoroughly, and put this on top of the mixture. (S. H. R.)

Omelets. Apricot.—Beat up the whites of 4 and the yolks of 6 eggs with a very small pinch of salt. Put a piece of fresh butter in the omelet pan, and directly it is melted pour in the eggs. As soon as they are set, fold up the omelet, inserting within the fold as much apricot jam as will lie in it. Turn out the omelet neatly on its dish, cover it with powdered sugar, and glaze it with a red-hot salamander.

Brussels Sprouts.—Boil 25 young Brussels sprouts until they are tender, divide each sprout into 4 or more portions according to size, dry on a cloth, beat up 6 eggs, yolks and whites; mix the sprouts with them, adding pepper and salt to taste. Melt 1 oz. fresh butter in the pan, when hot, put in the mixture, sprinkle with pepper and salt, and fry until of a nice brown colour. Serve quickly, sending butter sauce, sharpened with a dash of lime juice, to table with it.

Cheese.—(a) Grate 4 oz. good cooking cheese, beat up 6 eggs, only using the whites of 4; add the grated cheese to them, and by degrees ½ pint cream. Season well with pepper and salt, using cayenne pepper, if liked, and fry with butter in the ordinary way, serving as quickly as possible when ready.

(b) Beat up 3 or 4 eggs with 1-2 tablespoonfuls grated Parmesan cheese, and pepper and salt to taste. Put a piece of butter, the size of an egg, into a frying-pan; as soon as it is melted pour in the omelet mixture, and, holding the handle of the pan with one hand, stir the omelet with the other by means of a spoon. The moment it begins to set, cease stirring, but keep on shaking the pan for a minute or so: then with the spoon double up the omelet, and keep shaking the pan until the under side of the omelet has become of a golden colour. Turn it out on a hot dish and serve, with plenty of grated Parmesan cheese strewn over it. The cheese must be of good quality, and grated at the time—not the musty powder which so often does duty for Parmesan.

Haricot Beans.—These make a very nourishing omelet; but require to be carefully prepared beforehand, i.e. they should steep at least 6 hours in cold, slightly salted, water. It is a good plan to set them to steep overnight, especially if they are required for luncheon or early dinner. After steeping they must be boiled in fresh water until perfectly soft, and then mashed in milk, for ½ pint beans ½ teacupful milk will be required; when mashed, rub through a sieve or fine colander; then add 2 tablespoonfuls finely grated breadcrumbs, ½ oz. finely chopped parsley, and 4 eggs, yolks and whites, well beaten, a tablespoonful of melted butter, or else olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix the whole thoroughly, and pour into a buttered pan or enamelled dish. Bake ¾-1 hour in the oven, which should not be too hot; when served send a sharp brown sauce to table with it.

Macaroni.—Boil 2 oz. macaroni until it is perfectly tender; then drain it. Rub 2 tablespoonfuls flour into a smooth paste with a little cold water, boil in a lined saucepan ½ pint new milk, pour it when boiling on the flour paste, and stir well until thickened. Add to it the macaroni, which should be cut up into small bits; have ready beaten 4 eggs and ½ oz. parsley chopped up fine; add these to the milk at the same time as the macaroni, season with white pepper and salt, and pour the mixture while hot into an enamelled pie-dish, which should be well buttered. Bake in a moderately hot oven until browned over, then turn out, and serve with onion sauce, if liked; if not, with brown sauce.

Plain.—(a) Beat up 3 or 4 eggs with 1 dessertspoonful parsley very finely minced, and pepper and salt to taste. Put a piece of butter the size of an egg into a frying-pan; as soon as it is melted, pour in the omelet mixture, and, holding the handle of the pan with one hand, stir the omelet with the other by means of a spoon. The moment it begins to set cease stirring, but keep on shaking the pan for a minute or so; then, with the spoon, double up the omelet and keep shaking the pan until the under side of the omelet has become of a golden colour. Turn it out on a hot dish, and serve.

(b) Break 3 eggs, yolks and white, into a basin, add salt and pepper to taste, and beat them with a Dover’s whisk till thoroughly blended. Have the frying-pan previously on the fire with a lump of butter in it, the size of a walnut. Throw in the beaten eggs just before the butter boils. Let them set, and then fold up the omelet, and serve on a hot dish. A few chopped herbs and parsley may be added to the eggs before frying.

Plain Sweet.—Beat up well 3 eggs (whites and yolks), add to them 1 oz. butter broken up into small pieces and 1 oz. sifted sugar; stir well together, put 1 oz. fresh butter into the omelet pan; when it fritters pour in the mixture, and continue stirring until it is set, then turn the edges over until the omelet is of an oval shape, brown it with a salamander, and sift sugar over before sending to table. This will only make a small omelet; if a larger is required, double the proportions of the ingredients.

Potato.—Boil 6 mealy potatoes, then dry them well, and mash them with ½ oz. butter, add 1 oz. breadcrumbs, very finely grated, the yolks of 6 eggs and the whites of 4 seasoning with white pepper and salt; melt a little butter in the omelet pan, and when it is quite hot pour in the mixture, and fry it of a nice golden brown colour over a not too fierce fire. For omelet making a gas boiling-burner is far preferable to a stove; the heat can be so nicely regulated, and the operation so much more comfortably carried on than over a hot coal range.

Rice (Savoury).—Boil 3 oz. rice, after well washing in 2 or 3 waters, in 1 pint water until the water is entirely absorbed, when it is nearly cold; add to it 3 well-beaten eggs and ¼ oz. chopped parsley. Butter a lined pie-dish, pour in the omelet, and bake in a moderate oven. Serve with fine herbs sauce.

Rice (Sweet).—Follow the above recipe, only use instead of chopped parsley 1 oz. sifted white sugar, and omit the seasoning and sauce.

Rum.—Make a plain sweet omelet with 4 whites and 6 yolks of eggs. When cooked strew sugar over, and, instead of glazing it, pour a wineglassful of hot rum over it, and set it alight as it is being put on the table.

Savoury.—(a) Beat up 3 or 4 eggs with 1 dessertspoonful parsley very finely minced, ½ clove of shallot, also finely minced, pepper and salt to taste. Put a piece of butter the size of an egg into a frying-pan; as soon as it is melted pour in the omelet mixture, and, holding the handle of the pan with one hand, stir the omelet with the other by means of a spoon. The moment it begins to set, cease stirring, but keep shaking the pan for a minute or so; then with the spoon double up the omelet, and keep shaking the pan until one side of the omelet has become a golden colour, and it is ready.

(b) Beat 2 eggs in a basin, season with cayenne and salt, mix with it 1 teaspoonful each of finely chopped onion and parsley, melt ½ oz. butter in an omelet pan, pour the mixture into this, and keep stirring it over the fire until it sets, then roll and serve. About 3 minutes will serve to cook this omelet, which should be of a delicate brown when done.

(c) Besides parsley, add a very few fresh sweet herbs and a few chives, all very finely minced. Powdered sweet herbs may be used, but in either case great care should be taken not to put in too many.

Shallot (Francatelli’s recipe).—Break 3 eggs into a basin, add 1 spoonful cream, a small pat of butter, broken into pieces, a little chopped parsley, and the shallots, well chopped, some pepper and salt; then put 2 oz. butter into the omelet pan. While the butter is melting, whip the eggs and other ingredients well together until they become frothy. As soon as the butter begins to fritter, pour the eggs into the pan, and stir the omelet; as the eggs appear to set, roll the omelet into the form of an oval cushion. Allow it to acquire a golden-brown colour on one side over the fire, and then turn it out on its dish. Pour a thin sauce, or gravy, or half glaze under it, and serve.

Soufflé.—Break carefully 6 eggs, separating the yolks and whites. Strain the yolks and add to them 2 tablespoonfuls powdered sugar and a little lemon juice or orange-flower water, stir well together. Whip the whites into a stiff froth, and then mix lightly with the rest. Heat some fresh butter in the pan, pour in the mixture, when ready sprinkle it over with sugar, and either put it into the oven for a few minutes to rise, or else hold a salamander over it. (Eliot James.)

Spinach.—Chop up all together ¼ lb. spinach (it should be young and tender), ¼ lb. beets, ½ oz. parsley, and ½ oz. leeks and lemon-thyme mixed. Season the mixture with salt and pepper, then add by degrees, a heaped-up tablespoonful of well-dried flour, 4 spoonfuls milk, 4 eggs well beaten, and 2 oz. butter melted; mix the whole well together, put into a pan, and bake 20 minutes in the oven. This is rather more solid food than the ordinary fried omelet, but, when well made, an appetising dish. If beet is not liked, sprouts can be used instead.

Sweet.—(a) Beat up the whites of 4 and the yolks of 6 eggs, with a very small pinch of salt. Put a piece of fresh butter in the omelet pan, and directly it is melted pour in the eggs. As soon as they are set fold up the omelet, inserting within the fold as much apricot jam as will lie in it. Turn out the omelet neatly on its dish, cover it with powdered sugar, and glaze it with a red-hot salamander.

(b) Beat up the eggs as in (a), with the addition of a large pinch of powdered cinnamon, and 2 tablespoonfuls powdered loaf sugar. When cooked glaze with sugar and serve.

Swiss.—Made with grated cheese in the following manner: Grate 2 oz. Parmesan cheese, melt 2 oz. butter, and add to the cheese also ½ oz. finely chopped parsley, 1 oz. breadcrumbs, finely grated, ¼ pint new milk, and 4 eggs well beaten; fry in the usual way, with a little butter in the pan, which must be properly heated before the mixture is put in.

Tomato.—Scald 6 ripe tomatoes, pare them and remove the ends and seeds. Stew them until tender, then mash them and rub through a sieve; add 2 oz. finely grated breadcrumbs, 4 well-beaten eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls milk, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix all thoroughly, pour into a buttered dish and bake in a moderately hot oven. Serve with vinegar or brown sauce, not made with stock, as is ordinary brown sauce, but merely browned butter thickening thinned with vinegar.

Poached.—(a) To be covered with the white, they should be broken into a saucepan with plenty of boiling water, enough to cover them.

(b) Stir the water round very fast, then drop the egg in the middle of the whirlpool, and keep stirring the same way till it is set.

(c) Fill a shallow sauté pan with water and sufficient salt; add a little vinegar, a few peppercorns, and some leaves of parsley. When the water is on the point of boiling (it should never be allowed to boil) break 2 or more eggs into it (according to the size of the pan), and put on the cover. When done, take them out carefully, brush them clean on both sides with a paste brush, and cut each egg with a round fluted paste cutter, so as to get them of a uniform shape. Serve on a purée made as follows: Pick and wash perfectly clean 2-3 lb. spinach, put it into a saucepan with a little water, and let it boil till quite done, turn it out on a hair sieve to drain, squeeze the water out, and pass the spinach through the sieve. Put a good lump of butter into a saucepan, fry it a light brown, add a pinch of flour, mix well, put in the spinach, pepper and salt to taste, and a little milk, stir well, dispose the spinach on a dish, laying the poached eggs on the top of it, and a border of fried sippets round it.

(d) Poach some eggs (one for each person and one over) in salted water, with a little vinegar, some peppercorns, and a few leaves of parsley, in a shallow sauté pan, just long enough to set the yolks slightly; take out each egg with a slice, brush it clean with a paste brush, and cut it with a round fluted paste cutter, about 2 in. diameter, so as to get all the eggs a uniform shape, and leave neither too much nor too little white round them. Turn the egg over carefully, brush it clean, and lay it in the soup tureen, ready filled with boiling hot clear consommé. The water in which the eggs are poached should be kept at boiling point, but never boil. Some leaves or very small sprigs of chervil may be served in the soup.

(e) Served with a sauce composed of curry powder mixed to a paste in milk, to which is added sliced onions and butter; the sauce should be strained, and then poured round the poached eggs, which have been previously arranged in a hot dish.

Purée.—Beat the yolks of 7 hard-boiled eggs in a mortar with 1½ oz. fresh butter, a little very finely minced parsley, some salt and pepper to taste, and the yolks of 3 raw eggs; mince the whites of the boiled eggs as fine as possible, and toss them over the fire, with about ½ pint good gravy, till they become rather thick; press the pounded yolks through a colander in the centre of a dish, put the minced whites round them, and arrange as a garnish some sippets of bread, brushed over with beaten egg; put the dish into the oven, or before the fire in a Dutch oven, to brown, and serve very hot. This is an extremely pretty dish.

Rolls.—Allow one egg for each person, ¾ pint of milk and 4 teaspoonfuls flour for every three eggs; beat whites and yolks separately, mix the flour smoothly with the milk, then add the eggs and whisk well. Fry a little at a time in a buttered omelet-pan, roll as an omelet; serve very hot. To be eaten with sugar or treacle.

Savoury.—Take 4 eggs, boil them hard, when cold shell them, and cut them in half lengthwise, take out the yolks, beat into a smooth paste. To each egg allow a good slice of butter, ½ teaspoonful anchovy sauce, and cayenne pepper to taste. This should all be thoroughly mixed with the yolks; then fill the white halves with this paste. Serve on a napkin, and garnish with parsley. This is a most appetising dish, either for dinner or supper, and enough for 8 persons.

Scalloped.—(a) Mash some potatoes very smoothly, and boil some rice. Boil 5 eggs for 3 minutes; when they are cold remove the shells, and chop the eggs up roughly. Mix a teacupful of the mashed potatoes, the same quantity of rice, and the eggs together; add some chopped capers, very little vinegar, some melted butter, pepper, salt, and Worcester sauce. Put the mixture into scallop shells, with breadcrumbs and a little butter. Bake a light brown.

(b) Boil 3 or 4 eggs hard. When cold, remove the shells and chop the eggs roughly, have ready a small teacupful of mashed potatoes, another of rice; mix all together, add capers, a little melted butter, pepper, and salt, put into scallop shells with breadcrumbs on top, and bake a pale brown.

Scotch.—Boil some eggs hard enough to set the whites, so that you can remove the shells without breaking the white. After peeling the shell clean off, cover them completely with a savoury forcemeat, in which let ham or finely chopped anchovy bear due proportion. Fry of a gold colour, and serve with good gravy in the dish.

Scrambled.—(a) Break 4 eggs into a clean stewpan with 1 oz. butter, and a little salt and pepper; beat it all up until the yolks and whites are well mixed, then stir it over the fire with a wooden spoon till cooked; it should never be clotted or hard. A spoonful of stock, or any sauce, is a great improvement. Mushrooms minced and tossed in a little butter, cold asparagus cut into nice pieces, or even sliced cucumber placed in with the eggs 1-2 minutes before serving, make pleasant varieties of this little dish.

(b) Put in a saucepan 2 tablespoonfuls cream and a piece of butter the size of a walnut, well beat up 4 eggs, and when the butter is melted and quite hot pour in the eggs, and stir over the fire for a few minutes.

(c) Beat up 3 eggs well, add ½ teacupful cream or milk, salt to taste, and a small pat of butter; pour into a shallow stewpan, stir over a clear fire until the mixture grows quite thick; have ready a buttered slice of toast on a hot dish, turn the eggs out on to the toast, and serve with a sprinkling of pepper.

(d) Take a piece of butter about the size of a walnut, put it into a saucepan to melt. Take 3 eggs, break them, and put them into the saucepan with a little salt. Put the saucepan on the fire, stir the eggs quickly till they begin to set, then serve on a piece of dried toast. Take care to stir the eggs quickly, and take them out of the saucepan as soon as they begin to set, or they become hard.

(e) Beat up some eggs in a basin with pepper, salt, and a small quantity of French tomato sauce; melt some butter in a saucepan; add the eggs, and stir with a spoon until nearly set. Serve on toast, or in a very hot dish. If no tomato sauce is added to the eggs, a little chopped parsley should be sprinkled over them just before serving.

(f) Peel a large tomato, free it from pips, and chop it up small, also chop 2 slices Spanish onion; put both into a saucepan with plenty of butter, and pepper and salt to taste; stir on the fire till the onion is quite cooked, but not coloured; then throw in 4 eggs beaten up, and keep on stirring the whole till the eggs are nearly set; serve at once within a circle of bread sippets fried in butter.

Snow.—Whisk the whites of 6 eggs with a little powdered lump sugar into a stiff froth; set 1 qt. milk, sweetened to taste, to boil; drop the egg froth in it by tablespoonfuls; a few seconds will cook them; take them out, and put them on a sieve to drain. When all the egg froth is cooked, strain what is left of the milk; let it get cold, and mix gradually with it the yolks of the eggs with any flavouring you like. Put the vessel containing this into a saucepanful of water, and keep stirring on the fire until the custard thickens. To serve, pile up the whites on the dish, pour the custard round them, and sprinkle the top with “hundreds and thousands.”

Stewed.—Mince an onion very small, and fry it in good butter till well coloured, stir in some good stock, well seasoned with pepper and salt, and a very little flour; let it stew till the onion is quite soft, the flour thoroughly cooked, and the sauce rather thick. Lay in as many hard-boiled eggs as you please, cut in quarters or slices, and stir them very gently (lest the yolk should break from the white) till quite hot, when they should be served at once.

Stuffed.—(a) Make a savoury forcemeat with some very finely minced ham, veal, and one anchovy, with seasoning of salt, pepper, and a little cayenne. Have ready 6 or 7 hard-boiled eggs. Take the shells off very carefully, cover them thickly with the forcemeat. Brush the yolk of a beaten egg over them, and set them to brown in a moderate oven for about 15 minutes. When done put them on a hot dish, and pour some good brown gravy round them. A slight variation, and perhaps an improvement, is very carefully to open the eggs without entirely separating the tops, to take out the yolks, add them to the forcemeat, and when all has been well pounded together, to replace the yolks by this forcemeat, close the eggs carefully, and proceed as above.

(b) Take 6 hard-boiled eggs, cut them in half crosswise, remove the yolks, and cut a small piece off each half egg, so as to make them stand upright. Take 6 anchovies, bone and wash them clean, pound them in a mortar with 1 oz. butter, the yolks of the eggs, pepper, and a little tarragon finely chopped, fill up the whites with this mixture, pile them up on a dish and serve.

(c) Cut some hard-boiled eggs in half. Mince the yolks with olives, capers, anchovies, and truffles, a little tarragon and chervil; add some pepper and salt. Fill each half egg with this mixture, pour some liquefied butter over, warm in the oven, and serve each egg on a bread sippet, cut with an ornamental cutter, and fried in butter.

Sur Plat.—This is a most convenient dish when a slight meal is wanted in a hurry. Put a fireproof china saucepan on the fire, or on a spirit lamp. Place a lump of butter in it, and as soon as it melts, break in 3 or 4 eggs. Let them remain long enough for the whites to set, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve in the saucepan very hot.

Swiss.—(a) Although sometimes made with Parmesan, Gruyère is the correct cheese to use. Spread the bottom of a silver dish rather thickly with good fresh butter and cover it with very thin slices of the cheese, which should not be an old one or it would not melt well. Over this break as many eggs as you wish to have, taking care to keep the yolks whole; sprinkle a little salt, some black pepper, and a very little grated nutmeg over this, and pour over it about a quarter of a pint of good thick cream. Finish by strewing the top with grated cheese, and bake for ¼ hour. If not brown enough, pass the salamander over the top and serve immediately; very thin and nicely cut dry toast should be handed with it on a plate.

(b) Butter well a stoneware or silver or pewter dish that will stand the heat of the oven; line the sides of the dish with shavings of Gruyère or some good American toasting cheese. Drop on to the already buttered dish 4 or 6 raw eggs, pour over them about 3 tablespoonfuls of good cream; season with salt, cayenne, and a small grate of nutmeg, sprinkle a little grated cheese over all, and 2 tablespoonfuls more cream; place in the oven for about 7 minutes, or till the eggs are set.

(c) Spread the bottom of a dish with 2 oz. fresh butter; cover this with grated cheese; break 8 whole eggs upon the cheese without breaking the yolks. Season with red pepper and salt if necessary; pour a little thick cream on the surface, strew about 2 oz. grated cheese on the top, and set the eggs in a moderate oven for about ¼ hour. Pass a hot salamander over the top to brown it.

(d) Mix with 2 oz. grated cheese, 2 oz. oiled butter, 6 eggs, salt, pepper, and some finely chopped parsley, tarragon, and spring onions. Fry lightly, brown the top, and serve very hot.

Sauces, Butters, Gravies, Stuffings, &c.

Sauces, Butters, Gravies, Stuffings, &c.—These are employed to lend a zest to the flavour of the foods they accompany, seldom contributing any nutritious element themselves.

Agro Dolce.—This sauce is made thus: ½ lb. pignoli or pine-cone kernels, 6 oz. fine chocolate, 10 oz. sugar, ½ pint best vinegar, 3 oz. candito or candied orange or lemon, all mixed in rich good gravy, made from the material which composes the dish, such as wild boar, hare, &c.

Anchovy Butter (au Beurre d’anchois).—(a) Take 2 oz. fresh butter, 4 oz. boned anchovies, pounded to a smooth paste, and 3 oz. watercress, well washed and picked from the stalks. Mix the 3 ingredients well together, and pass them through a hair sieve. Shape the butter into small balls, ice them, and serve with dry toast or biscuits.

(b) 3 or 4 anchovies boned and pounded, 3 oz. parsley, weighed after it has been picked from the stalks, wash clean; boil for 8-10 minutes, till tender, with a small piece of soda in the water to keep it green; strain the water off and squeeze the parsley dry with the hand. Pound up in a mortar the parsley with 4 oz. fresh butter and the anchovies. Rub this through a sieve and let it drop on the dish on which it is sent to table. It should have a rocky appearance. Toast to be served at the same time.

(c) And Olive.—Take equal parts anchovies (washed, boned, and pounded fine), French olives (stoned, washed, chopped up, and then pounded), and fresh butter. Mix these 3 ingredients well together, and pass them through a very clean sieve, shape the mixture into balls, ice, and serve with Oliver biscuits, or with little squares of crisp toast.

(d) Heat a dinner-plate until it will melt ½ oz. butter placed on it; take the yolk of a fresh egg, beat it with a fork into the butter, add 1 teaspoonful anchovy sauce, cayenne pepper and salt to taste. Have ready some freshly-browned squares of toast, dip them into the mixture, covering both sides, and serve at once. (Bessie Tremaine.)

Apple Sauce.—(a) Pare, carefully core, and cut up the fruit; put it into a preserving pot or jar, and stand it in a saucepan of water over the fire till cooked. When quite done pulp the fruit, sweeten to taste with a little brown sugar; add (if liked) a piece of butter about the size of a large bean, and flavour with a little ground cinnamon or a few cloves; if the latter, they must be put in while the apples are cooking, taking care not to break them during the pulping. (Bessie Tremaine.)

(b) Peel and core 6 large apples, add to them 1 gill water and 2 tablespoonfuls moist sugar—the apples must be cut in pieces. Place the saucepan containing these ingredients on the fire to boil until the apples are soft; a little more water may be added if necessary, but the less the better; rub through a colander or sieve, or if in a hurry, mash with a fork. This must be warmed up again before serving, and a little more sugar added if necessary.

Apricot Sauce.—(a) Halve the apricots and take out the stones; break these, crush the kernels, and stew them with the fruit in a little water. Add a glass of white wine (some light German or French wine is better than sherry); sugar to taste and a spoonful of arrowroot or flour, mixed with water, to thicken. Strain before serving.

(b) Put half a pot of apricot jam in a saucepan with ½ pint water and a glass of sherry; boil, strain, and serve.

Béchamel Sauce.—Time, 2 hours; put 1 pint white stock into a stewpan with a bunch of sweet herbs, a small sprig of parsley, a bay leaf, 2 cloves, and a little salt; set it over a gentle fire to draw out the flavour of the herbs, then boil it until reduced to nearly half the quantity; mix 1 tablespoonful arrowroot in 1 pint cream and let it simmer for a few minutes; then pour in very gradually the ½ pint stock, and simmer it all together for 10-12 minutes, or until it is of the proper consistency. Should it be too thick, add a little milk or white stock.

Black Butter (Beurre noir).—Put a large piece of butter into a saucepan, and leave it on the fire until the butter becomes of a dark brown colour, but do not let it burn; then throw in some parsley chopped fine, a wineglassful of tarragon vinegar, a little salt, and some powdered white pepper, and serve.

Bordelaise Sauce.—Mince finely 2 or 3 shallots, blanch them for a few minutes, press out the water from them, and put them into a saucepan with a cupful of white wine, let them boil 20 minutes, then add 2 cupfuls Spanish sauce, a dust of pepper, and some parsley finely minced; let the sauce give a boil or two, and it is ready. Well-flavoured gravy, thickened with browned flour and butter, may be used instead of Spanish sauce.

Brandy Butter.—(a) 6 oz. butter, 6 oz. powdered loaf sugar, a small glass of brandy, and the same quantity of sherry. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream; add the brandy and sherry very slowly, beating all the time. It is best iced.

(b) Beat 2 oz. fresh butter to a cream, then add 2 oz. sifted sugar, and 1 wineglassful brandy drop by drop, mixing well all the time; continue beating until they are all thoroughly incorporated and the mixture looks like smooth solid cream. It is better than the usual melted butter with many puddings besides plum pudding.

(c) Take ¾ lb. fresh butter and beat it to a cream, add ¼ lb. finely sifted sugar, add very slowly 1½ wineglass brandy, and continue beating until well mixed.

Brandy Sauce.—(a) Mix 1 dessertspoonful French potato flour in a little cold water, stir into it ½ pint boiling water. Let it boil for 2 minutes; add 3 oz. lump sugar, the juice of a lemon, a grate of nutmeg, and 1 oz. sweet, fresh butter. When this is dissolved stir in 1 gill brandy, and do not afterwards boil the sauce.

(b) Mix 1 tablespoonful potato flour or arrowroot with a little cold water, then add as much water as will make enough sauce, with powdered loaf sugar to taste, and keep it on the fire until the sauce thickens; put into it at the time of serving as much brandy as may be necessary.

Breadcrumbs.—(a) Baked (Chapelure).—Bake any odd pieces of bread (taking care that none of them be greasy) to a rich brown colour. When cold pound them in a mortar, sift them through a fine sieve, and put them by for use.

(b) Fried.—Toast carefully in the oven a few thin slices of bread with the crusts cut off, and then rub them down or pass them through a colander. Put a liberal allowance of lard into a stewpan or frying pan, make it very hot, and take care that the fat is perfectly clear and transparent. Fry the prepared crumbs, taking care not to overdo them, and drain them before the fire very thoroughly and completely, as the whole success of fried crumbs consists in their being sent to table perfectly dry and quite hot.

(c) Plain.—Take the crumb of a stale loaf, and rub it through a wire sieve. They should be made from day to day.

Bread Sauce.—(a) Take 3-4 tablespoonfuls sifted breadcrumbs, pour over sufficient boiling new milk to cover, put a plate over the basin to keep in the steam; when cold put them into a saucepan with 2 tablespoonfuls good white stock, a small slice of onion, 3 or 4 peppercorns, a small blade of mace, and a little salt; when boiling, stir in a piece of butter the size of a pigeon’s egg in which a little flour has been rubbed, let the bread sauce thicken, take out the peppercorns and mace, serve very hot. Good white gravy can generally be made for this from the head and neck of the fowl, &c., for which the bread sauce is required. Some add a small piece of lemon peel.

(b) The great secret of the uneatable bread sauce one so often tastes is that the breadcrumbs are not grated finely enough. Grate the breadcrumbs, and then pass them through a colander into a basin, and pour over them some boiling milk (say ½ pint to a teacupful of crumbs), in which onion and spice to taste have been previously boiled, and strained off. This stands till the bread is thoroughly soaked, when it is put into a saucepan with more milk if necessary, salt, and pepper, and boiled to the proper consistency.

Brown Sauce (Espagnole).—Butter slightly a gallon saucepan, put a layer of slices of onion at the bottom, over this 2 lb. lean veal, 1 lb. beef, and ½ lb. ham, all cut in small pieces; add ½ pint gravy stock. Put the saucepan on the fire, stirring the contents frequently. When the meat is well coloured add 1 carrot cut in small pieces, 1 bay leaf, some parsley, thyme, and marjoram, 1 or 2 cloves, a little whole pepper and salt to taste, then put in as much more stock as will well cover the contents of the saucepan. Let the whole boil gently for about 3 hours, and strain the liquor through a tammy. Put into a saucepan ¼ lb. butter and 2 oz. flour, stir on the fire till the two are well mixed, and are of a light brown colour; then gradually add the strained liquor boiling hot. Set the saucepan at the side of the fire, and let it simmer for 1½ hour, carefully skimming the contents from time to time. Lastly, turn out the sauce into a basin, and if not wanted immediately let it be stirred every 5-10 minutes till quite cold. In a good larder it will keep several days, but it should be warmed every day in hot weather.

Brown Butter Sauce.—Put 4 oz. fresh butter in a stewpan on the fire, and keep stirring it until it becomes brown by frying; then add a small wineglass of tarragon vinegar, ditto of Harvey’s sauce, a tablespoonful of chopped capers, a little anchovy, and either a gill of brown sauce or gravy. Boil this together for 5 minutes, and serve.

Caper Sauce (aux Capres).—(a) Put 2 oz. butter in a saucepan with a tablespoonful of flour, and stir well on the fire until the mixture assumes a brown colour; add rather less than 1 pint stock, free from fat, season with pepper, salt, and a little Worcester sauce. When the sauce boils, throw in plenty of capers, let it boil once more, and it is ready.

(b) 4 oz. butter melted, to which add 2 oz. flour and ½ pint milk; when it thickens, 2 tablespoonfuls cream, 1 teaspoonful finely chopped parsley, 1 of fennel, and 1 of capers, 2 of tarragon vinegar, salt and cayenne to taste. A little chopped tarragon is an improvement, and that and the parsley and fennel ought to be previously boiled.

Celery Sauce (au Céleri).—Boil 2 or 3 heads of celery in salted water, with a bunch of sweet herbs and some whole pepper and salt to taste; when thoroughly done, pass them through a hair sieve. Melt a piece of butter in a saucepan, mix a tablespoonful of flour with it, then add the celery pulp, stir, and dilute to the proper consistency with milk or cream.

Chaudeau Sauce.-½ pint foreign wine, ½ pint water, the yolks of 8 eggs, the peel of a lemon rasped off in sugar, the juice of a lemon and 4 oz. sugar, including that on which the lemon was rasped, must be well whisked in a stewpan; then set over the fire, and the whisking continued until the sauce thickens and is about to boil.

Chaudfroid Sauce.—Remove the legs, breast, and wings from 2 uncooked birds, pound the carcases in a mortar, put them into a saucepan, with a piece of ham or bacon chopped up, an onion, a carrot, 1 oz. butter, a bundle of sweet herbs, and spices, pepper and salt to taste. Put the saucepan on the fire, and when the contents are quite hot add a small cupful of white wine (sherry or marsala), and a few minutes after add rather more than 1 pint good ordinary stock; let the whole gently simmer over an hour, then strain, and carefully remove all fat; mix a little butter and flour in a saucepan, and stir them on the fire till the mixture browns, then gradually add the liquor and a cupful of unclarified aspic jelly. If at hand a cupful of well-made Spanish sauce may be used instead of the thickening of butter and flour.

Cherry or Plum Sauce.—Wash and stone the fruit, put them on to stew with a glass of red wine, a little water, a little powdered cinnamon, and a slice of toasted bread. Break the stones, and boil them apart in just water enough to cover them. When the fruit is well done pass all through a coarse sieve, strain it, and add the water from the stones. Sweeten to taste, and thin it with wine or water if too thick.

Chestnut Sauce (aux Marrons).—Remove the outer skin from a number of chestnuts (carefully excluding any that may be the least tainted), put them to boil in salted water with a handful of coriander seeds, and 2 bay leaves. When thoroughly done remove the inner skin and pound the chestnuts in a mortar, adding a little stock (free from fat) now and then. When a smooth paste is obtained, fry an onion in butter to a light colour, add the chestnut paste and sufficient stock to get the sauce of the desired consistency; add salt and pepper to taste, pass through a hair sieve and serve.

Chestnut Stuffing.—Remove the outer skin from a quantity of chestnuts; set them to boil in salted water with a handful of coriander seeds and 2 bay leaves. When nearly done drain off the water, and remove the inner skin of the chestnuts. Cut up ½ lb. butter into small pieces, mix it with the chestnuts, when cold, together with an onion finely minced. Sprinkle the mixture with pepper and salt and a little powdered spice to taste, and stuff the turkey with it.

Cinnamon Sauce (Cannelle).—Boil 3 oz. sugar with a stick of cinnamon broken up in small pieces in rather more than 1 pint water; after it has boiled a little time skim well and strain; add a small quantity of arrowroot or potato flour mixed with a little cold water, let it boil once more, and serve; or it may be served without thickening.

Clear Butter (Beurre fondu).—Melt as much fresh butter as may be wanted in a very clean stewpan, taking care that it does not get at all brown, to prevent which keep moving it about over a moderately hot fire with a wooden spoon. When it is all melted take it off the fire, and let it stand for a few minutes until the thick part settles at the bottom of the pan, then carefully pour off the clear butter, season it by stirring in a little powdered salt, and serve at once.

Cold Meat Sauce.—(a) Chop very finely the yolks of 4 hard-boiled eggs, 4 shallots, a little chopped parsley, chervil and tarragon. Mix the herbs and eggs with 2 tablespoonfuls best salad oil, some salt and pepper, and gradually add 4 spoonfuls vinegar. Arrange some slices of cold meat in a circle in a dish, ornamented with pieces of cucumber and slices of the hard-boiled whites of eggs. If liked, a few chopped capers can be added to the sauce, which must be poured over the meat. This is very appetising for breakfast or for luncheon.

(b) Chop a little onion very fine (green onion, if you have it; there should be about ½ teaspoonful, or rather less); mix this smoothly with a bit of butter the size of a small walnut on a plate till the butter becomes soft and creamy; put this into a basin, adding a teaspoonful of made mustard, a little salt and pepper, nearly a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and a tablespoonful of milk; mix these ingredients together, and add 2 tablespoonfuls vinegar, or rather less, if liked.

Corach.—1 oz. cayenne pepper, 8 cloves of garlic, 2 spoonfuls walnut pickle, 1 qt. vinegar, 2 spoonfuls mushroom pickle, and a small quantity of cochineal. Put the whole into a bottle, which must be shaken every day for 3 weeks; then the liquid must be strained off for use, and 1 pint fresh vinegar put on the grounds and more corach made.

Cream Sauce (à la crème).—Into 1 pint melted butter, made with very little flour, stir about 1 gill cream beaten up with the strained yolk of an egg.

Curries and Curry Powders.—(a) 1 oz. cardamoms freed from husk, 1 oz. cloves, 2 oz. each caraways, ginger, and black pepper, 1 oz. cayenne, 3 oz. cumin, 1½ lb. turmeric, 4 oz. fenugreek; all freshly ground; improves by keeping.

(b) 4 oz. turmeric, 2 oz. coriander seeds, 1 oz. each cumin, cayenne, pepper, and ginger, ½ oz. each cardamoms and caraway, 2 dr. mace; all finely powdered, well mixed, sifted, and kept corked.

(c) 12 oz. coriander, 6 oz. black pepper, 4 oz. turmeric, 3 oz. cumin, 1½ oz. cayenne, ½ oz. cardamoms, 2 dr. cloves, 1 oz. pimento, 3 oz. cinnamon, 2 oz. ginger, 1 oz. mace, 1 oz. mustard.

(d) 5 oz. coriander, 4 oz. cumin, 3 oz. each turmeric, fennel seed, and cayenne, 2 oz. black pepper, 1 oz. fenugreek.

(e) 12 oz. coriander, 8 oz. turmeric, 2 oz. each cumin, caraway, and long pepper, 1 oz. cayenne, ½ oz. cardamoms.

(f) 1 lb. turmeric, ¾ lb. coriander seed, 3 oz. ginger, 2 oz. black pepper, 1½ oz. red pepper, ½ oz. cardamom seeds, ¼ oz. caraway seeds, 80 cloves, finely powdered. Well mix together, and put into stoppered bottles.

(g) 13 oz. coriander seed, 3 oz. cumin, 2 oz. black pepper, 4 oz. China tumeric, ¾ oz. cayenne pepper, ¼ oz. capsicum, ¼ oz. white ginger, ½ oz. cardamoms, ¼ oz. cloves, ¼ oz. allspice. All to be finely powdered and well mixed together.

(h) Cut up a fowl, rabbit, or any cold meat in small pieces about 1 in. square. Mix in a basin to a smooth paste ¼ lb. butter and 2 tablespoonfuls curry powder. Put 2 oz. butter in a frying-pan, when boiling put in 6 onions and 2 shallots, cut fine; fry a light brown, then add the curry powder which was mixed, and when all is melted put in the meat. Stir constantly till done, or it will burn. A fowl will take ¼ hour to fry, and must be well skimmed. In a moist curry add a little gravy.

(i) Cut some onions in thin slices, and fry them a good brown in butter, add a breakfastcupful of milk, in which a tablespoonful of curry powder has been mixed; let all boil together for 20 minutes, stirring the whole time; then add the vegetables previously parboiled, and let the whole simmer by the side of the fire for about an hour. Potatoes, peas, beans, carrots, and turnips can be used; but broad beans alone make a delicious curry.

(j) Put a good-sized piece of butter into a stewpan, slice into it 2 good-sized onions, and fry till they become a golden brown colour; sift over the onions about 1 tablespoonful curry powder (Crosse and Blackwell’s is the best), mix and fry lightly. Take a fowl or rabbit previously cooked, and joint it neatly, cut into rather small pieces, and put it into the stewpan; then take a good large teacupful of fresh milk, mix a small quantity of flour with it, add to the meat a pinch of salt, and, if you have it, a tablespoonful of mangoe sauce; mix all well together, and let it simmer on the fire 20 minutes, then squeeze over it the juice of ½ lemon or a small lime; if there is not sufficient gravy, a little more milk may be added, and if too rich strain off a little of the onions. The remains of a cold fowl, rabbit, or a veal cutlet are excellent for this curry; also any kind of white fish, lobster, or shrimps; if for fish only, all the onions must be strained off; the gravy should be of the consistency of good cream, and a bright yellow colour.

(k) Cut into small squares the meat and 2 onions, with a dessertspoonful of sugar; put these into a stewpan with 2 oz. butter to take good colour. Then add 1 teacupful good stock, some raisins, say 12, cut small; curry powder to taste, pepper and salt, and a few slices of apple. When these are all mixed together, gently cook for 3-4 hours.

(l) Cut 1 lb. meat in small pieces, slice an onion and fry in butter until of a light brown, then add 1 tablespoonful curry powder, 1 teacupful water, 1 breakfastcupful gravy, the juice of a lemon, and a little salt. Stew all until nearly dry, and serve quite hot. Curry should always be made of cooked meat.

(m) 18 oz. turmeric powder, 1 oz. cayenne, 2 oz. black pepper, 4 oz. ground ginger, 12 oz. cumin, 12 oz. coriander. Butler and M’Culloch, of Covent-garden Market, will either mix these ingredients or send them separate.

(n) 1 lb. 4 oz. coriander seed, 1 oz. cumin ditto, 1 oz. fenugreek ditto, 1 oz. mustard ditto, 2 oz. poppy ditto, 4 oz. tumeric, in powder, 2 oz. ginger ditto, 2 oz. black pepper ditto, 1 oz. red pepper ditto, 2 oz. garlic.

Each of the first four ingredients must be well roasted separately in a dry frying-pan (free from grease), constantly stirring all the time; they must then be pounded and sifted through muslin before being weighed, as the loss is considerable in the husking. The poppy seed must be ground, but does not need sifting. All the powders must then be carefully mixed. The garlic must then be added, picked clean from all skin, and the whole again beaten with a pestle in a mortar till the garlic is thoroughly incorporated with the other ingredients. Bottle and cork tightly. A tablespoonful is enough for a curry.

(o) Take 2 large onions, shred them, and put them into a stewpan with a bit of butter; brown them well, cut the meat into squares, put it into the pan, in which the fried onions are, and brown it also. Then add the curry powder, a little salt, a small piece of coconut grated, and a coffeepotful of rich milk or cream. Put the lid on the pan, and let it stew 15-20 minutes, as the meat requires.

(p) 2½ large spoonfuls butter, simmer, and add 2 or 3 slices onion to fry; when the onions are nicely browned take them out, and put in a tablespoonful of curry powder, with an onion chopped, and 2 or 3 cloves garlic; fry for about 10 minutes longer, then put in the meat, every now and then throwing in a little cold water to prevent burning. When the meat is tolerably well done add a cupful of water, cold or hot, and simmer gently; when all the water is evaporated and the meat thoroughly cooked, the curry is done. The mixture should be well stirred all the time, or it will stick to the bottom of the pan.

(q) Take 2 lb. meat of any sort; pass it through a sausage machine, or mince it. Previous to doing this braise 2 onions in a stewpan with a little butter and 2 tablespoons curry powder or paste. Then add the minced meat and stir the whole together for about 1 hour over the fire. Add a tablespoonful of vinegar and serve. The above quantity is sufficient for 12 persons.

(r) Cut 1½ lb. chicken, or any meat or fish, into small pieces, wash them well, and sprinkle 1 teaspoonful salt and 1 tablespoonful curry powder (mixed) over them. Fry sliced onions (number according to taste) in 3 tablespoonfuls fresh butter, put the meat in, and fry for ¼ hour, pouring in at the same time 2 cups boiled gravy. 3 tablespoonfuls coconut milk should be added, or in its stead a lump of fresh butter rolled in flour. Simmer for 10 minutes. Just before serving add a squeeze from a lime. Rice should be served on a separate dish.

(s) 2 large tablespoonfuls curry powder, 1 dessertspoonful salt, the same of black pepper. Fry and chop very fine 4 onions, then moisten the curry powder with water, and put it in a stewpan, with all the above ingredients, and ¼ lb. butter. Let it stew for 20 minutes, stirring all the time to prevent burning, then add 1½ lb. cold meat, or fresh meat or any fowl or rabbit, cut into short thick pieces, without fat, add ½ pint milk or good stock to make the curry thick. Boil all up at once, and then let it stew gently for 3-4 hours. When ready add lemon juice or chili vinegar.

(t) Make the stewpan very hot, and then put some butter into it; when melted add onions cut into small pieces. When they are browned add your raw meat, also cut small, and simmer for 3 hours. When the meat is well cooked add 1 dessertspoonful curry powder (more if liked very hot) and ½ teaspoonful curry paste, or less, mixed with a little drop of water. Breast of mutton is best, and a little fat is an improvement.

Custard (à la crème).—Beat up the yolks of 2 eggs with powdered sugar, according to taste; stir in ½ pint milk, and 1 or 2 teaspoonfuls orange flower water. Stir in a bain-marie on the fire, and when the sauce thickens it is ready.

Devil (à la diable).—(a) Take 2 tablespoonfuls black pepper, and ¼ spoonful cayenne; take some thick slices of meat, beef or mutton, or some legs of chicken or other poultry; cut the meat several ways, but not through, and put the pepper in the interstices; broil on a clear fire. Sauce.—2 tablespoonfuls roast-meat gravy, 2 port wine, ½ lemon juice, ½ respectively anchovy sauce, Harvey sauce, Worcester sauce, and Reading sauce, and a little shred lemon peel and some of the stuffing of duck or goose (if the “devil” is made of either); otherwise have a little chopped onion boiled tender in gravy, and put it into the sauce, which is only to be made hot on the fire.

(b) Cut up cold meat or bones, lay them in a shallow dish, and pour over them a mixture made thus: Take 1 teaspoonful powdered mustard, 2 teaspoonfuls each Worcester sauce and mushroom ketchup, 1 teaspoonful chili vinegar, ¼ teaspoonful cayenne, 1 teaspoonful salad oil, 1 of lemon juice, and 1 wineglassful claret. Put the dish into the oven, stir the meat about in it for 10 minutes or a little longer. This is very nice made of cold fowl or kidneys.

(c) Fry the meat brown in butter. Have ready a mixture made as follows: some good gravy or stock, a little Worcester and tomato sauce and ketchup; chop very fine some mixed pickles, add them with pepper and salt, and stir well; when you have taken up the meat out of the pan, set the mixture in it to get hot, then pour it over the meat, and serve on a hot-water dish. Cold fish cooked in this way is also very good.

(d) The following is a most excellent devil mixture, which may be used for every sort of wet devil; pigs’ feet, chicken legs, fish, and indeed almost anything, is very good when cooked with it: 4 tablespoonfuls cold gravy, 1 of chutney paste, 1 of ketchup, 1 of vinegar, 2 teaspoonfuls made mustard, 2 of salt, and 2 tablespoonfuls butter. Mix all the above ingredients as smoothly as possible in a soup plate; put with it the cold meat, or whatever you wish to devil, and stew gently until thoroughly tender.

(e) Take 4 tablespoonfuls gravy, 1 of mushroom ketchup, 1 of vinegar, 1 teaspoonful chutney or chowchow, 2 of made mustard, 1 of salt, and 2 tablespoonfuls butter. Mix all smoothly in a soup plate, put it with the cold fowl or turkey, and stew gently until hot through.

(f) Mix in a teacup equal quantities of mustard, ground pepper, and vinegar (a little Watkin’s relish is an improvement when liked); take the bones, slit the meat down to the bone, and fill the slits with this mixture, rub it well in all over the meat, then broil over a clear fire, and send to table at once.

Dutch Sauce (Hollandaise).—(a) Put 3 tablespoonfuls vinegar in a saucepan, and reduce it on the fire to one-third; add ¼ lb. butter and the yolks of 2 eggs. Place the saucepan on a slow fire, stir the contents continuously with a spoon, and as fast as the butter melts add more, until 1 lb. is used. If the sauce becomes too thick at any time during the process, add 1 tablespoonful cold water and continue stirring. Then put in pepper and salt to taste, and take great care not to let the sauce boil. When it is made—that is, when all the butter is used and the sauce is of the proper thickness—put the saucepan containing it into another filled with warm (not boiling) water until the time of serving.

(b) Melt 2 oz. butter in a saucepan, mix with it the yolks of 3 eggs, a good spoonful of flour, a little salt and nutmeg, and about 3 tablespoonfuls cold water. Stir this over the fire till on the point of boiling, when the sauce should be a little thick. Draw the saucepan to the side of the stove, and stir in slowly 3 oz. more butter, add the juice of a lemon, and serve hot.

(c) ½ lb. butter, 3 yolks eggs, 1 lemon, 10 whole grains black pepper, pinch salt. Break yolks of eggs into a saucepan, add the pepper, crushed but not powdered, the salt, the juice of lemon; whisk it well. In another saucepan melt the butter to cream (taking care not to boil), then with a spoon drop the butter slowly on to the eggs, stirring all the time; beat it well together, strain through a tammy cloth, and place the saucepan in a bain-marie until dinner is served; add a small piece of butter the last moment.

(d) The yolks of 2 eggs raw, ½ teacupful cream, piece of butter size of a walnut, 1 teaspoonful tarragon vinegar. Make the cream, butter, and vinegar hot, and pour gently over the eggs, stirring one way till well mixed.

(e) The yolks of 2 eggs, the juice of ½ lemon, ¼ lb. butter, 1 teaspoonful salt, and a little white pepper. Stir this in a clean stewpan over the fire till the butter is melted (it must never boil), then stir in a pint of melted butter, and strain through a silk sieve. When wanted, stir it over the fire till hot.

Egg Sauce (Béarnaise, Mousseuse).—(a) Grate 2 oz. vanilla chocolate and stir into it ½ pint cream, and ½ pint milk with sugar to taste; when it boils add the yolks of 3 or 4 eggs, whisk until it froths well, return it to the stewpan, and stir until it thickens, but do not let it boil. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth with a little sifted sugar, stir this to the rest, and serve at once.

(b) Flavour 1 pint milk with vanilla or any flavouring preferred, add sugar to taste, let it nearly boil, then stir in off the fire the yolks of 2 or 3 eggs and 2 teaspoonfuls flour; stir until it thickens. Beat up the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth with a little sifted sugar; at the moment of serving add the froth to the sauce, and it is ready.

(c) Put 3 or 4 shallots and a little garlic, with some allspice, roughly pounded, and a little mace, into a saucepan with a tumblerful of water and half that quantity of tarragon vinegar. Let the whole boil till reduced to one tumblerful; strain this liquor, and let it get cold; strain the yolks of 3 eggs, mix gradually with them the above liquor, salt to taste, and a 2 oz. pat of fresh butter; stir the mixture over a slow fire until it thickens, then add a small quantity of tarragon, finely minced, and serve.

(d) Egg Foam Sauce.—Rasp off the yellow rind of ½ lemon, with 1½ oz. loaf sugar. Put this, with 3 eggs and 1 teaspoonful arrowroot, in an enamel stewpan. Stir in ¼ pint water, and a tablespoonful of either brandy, rum, or maraschino. Set it over the fire, and whisk it thoroughly till the froth fills the stewpan. This may be served with either warm or cold dishes.

Epicurean Sauce.—8 oz. each mushroom ketchup and walnut ketchup, 3 oz. shallots, 2 oz. each port wine and Indian soy, ½ oz. each cloves and white pepper, ¼ oz. cayenne; macerate 14 days in warm place; filter; add white wine vinegar to make 1 pint.

Fairy Butter.—Take the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs and beat them in a mortar with 2 tablespoonfuls pounded white sugar and 1 teaspoonful orange flower water, or any flavouring that is preferred. When brought to a smooth paste add ¼ lb. fresh butter and mix all well together. Then put it into a very coarse cloth and force it through it (by squeezing and wringing it) on to a dish.

Fennel Sauce (au Fenouil).—Blanch a small quantity of fennel in boiling water and salt for a minute, take it out, dry it on a cloth, and chop it finely; melt 2 oz. butter, add 1 tablespoonful flour to it, mix well, put in pepper and salt to taste, and a little more than a tumbler of hot water; stir on the fire until the sauce thickens and begins to boil. Take the saucepan off the fire, stir into it the yolk of an egg beaten up with the juice of half a lemon, and add plenty of chopped fennel.

Fine Herbs (Provençale).—Put into a saucepan 1 gill salad oil, 1 onion, 1 tomato, 3 or 4 button mushrooms, and a small piece of garlic, all finely chopped. When the whole has been on the fire a few minutes, add 1 tablespoonful flour and stir well; then pour in 1 glass white wine and ½ pint stock, add a bunch of sweet herbs; pepper and salt to taste, 2 cloves, and a bit of nutmeg. Let the sauce boil for ¼ hour, then strain and serve.

Fish Sauce.—(a) 1 pint nasturtium blossoms to be gathered, and put into a jar with 1 qt. good vinegar, 6 shallots, 3 teaspoonfuls salt, 2 of cayenne pepper; let these stand together for 7-9 days, then strain the liquid off, and to every pint of it add 2 oz. soy, and the same of essence of anchovies. Bottle this and cork it well. This sauce is also good with game.

(b) 2 oz. butter, 1 large dessertspoonful flour, 2 tablespoonfuls mushroom ketchup, 1 dessertspoonful anchovy essence, 1 of chili vinegar, 1 teaspoonful pounded sugar, 1 of Indian soy, 1 gill gravy, 1 wineglass sherry. Proceed thus: Put into a small copper stewpan the butter, let it dissolve and stir into it with a wooden spoon a large dessertspoonful of flour; stir this over the fire till it begins to brown. Now put in the gravy and stir over the fire till it begins to thicken; then add the other ingredients, leaving the sherry till the last; it should be smooth and rather thick. The wine should never boil long, as it loses its flavour.

(c) Make ½ pint white sauce, add 1 tablespoonful curry powder, and some pickles chopped up small with a little of the vinegar.

(d) The yolks of 2 eggs, ½ teacupful cream, a little cayenne pepper and salt. Mix them together and simmer in a pan, stirring all the time till it thickens. When cold, add 2 tablespoonfuls vinegar.

Forcemeat.—(a) Pound to a paste in a mortar slightly rubbed with garlic equal parts veal and fat ham or bacon, then pass them through a wire sieve, and return them to the mortar. Work into the paste thus obtained ¼ its bulk of butter, and about the same quantity of breadcrumbs, soaked in milk or in stock, with the yolks of one or more eggs according to quantity. Add some minced parsley and pepper, salt, spices, and powdered sweet herbs, to taste.

(b) Breadcrumbs, hare’s liver scalded and then minced fine, with ½ lb. ham, 1 anchovy, some lemon peel, sweet herbs, well seasoned by salt, pepper, and nutmeg, if the flavour be liked will, when mixed with 1 glass port and 2 eggs, make a good forcemeat for hare. Add a little fresh butter to it if the ham be lean.

(c) ½ lb. breadcrumbs, ¼ lb. chopped suet, 1 teaspoonful white pepper, 2 of salt, 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley, one of sweet marjoram, one egg, and a little milk. Beat all together, and make into small balls.

(d) Take 1 part finely shredded suet and 2 of breadcrumbs, season with pepper, salt, powdered spices, sweet herbs, and finely minced parsley; mix all well together, then add as many eggs as will bind the ingredients together into a stiff paste.

Gascony Butter.—Take equal quantities parsley picked from the stalk and parboiled, anchovies washed, boned, and pounded, and fresh butter. Mix the ingredients well together, and pass them through a hair sieve; shape the butter into egg-shaped balls, ice them, and serve with a piece of toast under each ball.

Gherkin Sauce (aux Cornichons).—Put ½ pint vinegar into a saucepan, with a clove of garlic, 2 shallots finely minced, a sprig of thyme, a bay leaf, pepper and spices to taste, and, if liked, a little cayenne; let the whole boil for ½ hour, then add ½ pint stock or broth. Melt a piece of butter the size of an egg, mix a little flour with it, then the above liquor carefully strained. Stir the sauce till it boils, add salt if required, a little minced parsley, and 2 or 3 pickled gherkins finely minced.

Glaze.—(a) Take 4 lb. shin of beef, 4 lb. knuckle of veal, and 1 lb. lean ham, cut them into small pieces, and put them into a stockpot with about 2 qt. cold water—enough to cover the meat—let it come gradually to the boil, skim carefully, occasionally adding a dash of cold water; when clear boil it for 8 hours more, and then strain it through a sieve into a pan. Remove the fat when quite cold. Pour it into a stewpan—be careful not to let the sediment go in—with 1 oz. whole black pepper, ½ oz. of salt, and boil it over a clear fire, leaving the pan uncovered. Skim, and when reduced to 1 qt. strain it through a tammy into another stewpan; then let it simmer till—on taking out some with a spoon and allowing it to cool—it will set into a jelly; great care is required to keep it from burning. It should be kept in earthenware pots, and when required for use melted by putting the pots into saucepans of boiling water. To glaze hams, tongues, &c., wash them over with the melted glaze, using a brush which should be kept for that purpose.

(b) Melt 2 oz. butter and 2 oz. lump sugar in saucepan till brown, add 2 spoonfuls jelly made from shank of mutton or gelatine; let all boil up. Put it over the tongue or ham with a feather or brush.

Governor’s Sauce.—The following is a Canadian recipe: Slice 1 peck of green tomatoes, sprinkle them with a cupful of salt, and let them stand a night; in the morning pour off the liquor, and put them into a saucepan with vinegar enough to cover them. Add 6 green or red chilies, 4 large onions chopped fine, 1 teacupful brown sugar, 1 of scraped horseradish, 1 tablespoonful each cloves and allspice, and 1 teaspoonful each red and white pepper. Let it simmer till soft, put into jars, and keep air-tight. (Bessie Tremaine.)