THE KITCHEN. (continued 11)

Rhubarb, Stewed.—To 1 lb. rhubarb, cut in pieces 1-2 in. in length, allow ½ lb. loaf sugar, and the grated rind of one lemon. Have ready a large tin saucepan of boiling water, throw the rhubarb in, and stir the pieces down with a wooden or silver spoon. Put the cover on, and for 3-4 minutes it may be left, then the cover taken off; the rhubarb is not again left until it is done. It may be quietly turned in the saucepan with the spoon so as not to break the rhubarb. The moment it boils it softens, and in three minutes or less time, according to whether the rhubarb is old or young, strain it off quickly with the cover tilted on the saucepan. Let it slip from the saucepan into a pie dish; sprinkle the loaf sugar and grated lemon over it, and leave until cold.

Rhubarb with Figs.—6 lb. rhubarb (weighed after being skinned and cut), 5 lb. moist sugar, 1 lb. figs, and ¼ lb. candied lemon peel, cut small; let the sugar and other ingredients remain on the top of rhubarb till next day; boil 1 hour.

Rice, Boiled.—Take 1 lb. Patna rice, wash it well in several different waters; pick from it all discoloured grain, husk, &c., and put it into a very clean saucepan with a little alum or salt to raise the scum. Let it boil till tender; it need not be covered. Try by taking out a grain and pressing it between your thumb and finger; if done it will mash easily, and you will know the rice is cooked enough. Turn the rice into a fine colander, or any strainer; and let cold water run on it from the tap to separate the grains; shake off the water, and put the rice between 2 plates to warm in the oven, of which the door should be left open. Care must be taken that the rice does not get too dry. Cooked in this way, every grain will be separate, while at the same time the rice will be thoroughly done—a combination very seldom arrived at except by very careful cooks.

Rice Croquettes.—(a) Boil ¼ lb. rice in milk flavoured with the thin rind of a lemon, or a piece of vanilla, and sweetened to taste. When the rice is done and has absorbed all the milk, remove the substance used for flavouring and work in 3 or 4 eggs (leaving out the whites of 2) into the rice; spread it out to get cold, and then fashion it into croquettes to be egged, breadcrumbed, and fried in the usual way.

Rice Croquettes.—(b) Boil 3 oz. rice in some broth, stir it well, add some butter and 2 yolks of eggs little by little. Of this mixture take 1 tablespoonful on to a well-floured board, and press it out thin; prepare some forcemeat of game, take a spoonful for each croquette and lay it on the rice, form it into a roll so that the rice can be spread smoothly over it; when all are prepared in this way, dip them in egg and vermicelli, and fry them in butter.

Rice, Empress.—Boil 3 tablespoonfuls rice, picked and washed clean, in 1 pint milk, with sugar to taste, and a piece of vanilla; when quite done put it into a basin to get cold. Make a custard with 1 gill milk and the yolks of 4 eggs; when cold mix it with the rice. Beat up to a froth 1 gill cream, with some sugar and a pinch of isinglass dissolved in a little water; mix this very lightly with the rice and custard; fill a mould with the mixture, and set it on ice. When moderately iced turn it out on a dish, and serve.

Rice Fritters.—Boil 3 tablespoonfuls until it has fully swelled, then drain it quite dry, and mix with it 4 well-beaten eggs, ¼ lb. currants, and a little grated lemon peel; nutmeg and sugar to taste. Stir in as much flour as will thicken it, and fry in hot lard.

Rice.—Kedgeree.—Put 1 breakfastcupful well-dried boiled rice into a deep dish; add to it nearly as much cooked white fish, well freed from all bones, with some finely chopped parsley, 2 anchovies, 3 chilies, with pepper and salt to taste. Break over all 2 fresh eggs boiled for not more than 3½ minutes. Mix these ingredients thoroughly together with a fork; melt rather more than a tablespoonful of butter in a stewpan, and make the mixture very hot over the fire.

Rice Mange.—Rub smooth about 2 oz. ground rice in a little milk, then take 1 qt. milk and boil it with the peel of half a lemon, a bay leaf, and a few almonds; sweeten it with loaf sugar, and stir the rice into it over the fire, until it is thick, and then put it into a mould; when turned out cover it with a custard. If the mould has a hole in it, it may be filled with sweetmeat instead. Wet the mould before you put in the rice.

Rice Meringue.—Put 1 teacupful rice into ½ pint milk and let it simmer till soft, then add the yolks of 3 beaten-up eggs to the rice in the stewpan, and beat up the whole with a teaspoonful of moist sugar. Turn it out into a buttered tin or pie-dish, piling it up high in the centre, and spread a thick layer of apricot jam over it. Whisk the whites of the 3 eggs to a froth with a teaspoonful of castor sugar, spread the froth over the jam, and sprinkle sugar on the top. Bake for 20 minutes; if a very hot oven, leave the door partly open. Serve at once, in the pie dish, with napkin round. The pie dish can be placed within a silver dish for serving.

Rice, Moulded, with Mushrooms.-½ lb. rice, 3 oz. butter, 4 cloves, 1 blade mace, 1 onion, 1 lemon, 12 good-sized mushrooms, 1½ pint stock or broth, a few breadcrumbs. Wash the rice, and put into 1½ pint boiling stock or broth, adding 1 oz. butter, the onion, cloves, and mace; stir the rice occasionally to prevent its sticking to the bottom of the stewpan; let it stew slowly with the lid on. In about 1½ hour it should be tender and dry; if not quite dry, stir over the fire for a few minutes with the lid off, then it will soon dry. Take from the fire, and stir into it the yolks of 3 and the white of 1 egg, 2 oz. butter, a little salt; stir over the fire a minute to set the eggs; butter a plain mould (a border mould would be best); sprinkle the bottom and sides with fine breadcrumbs; when the rice has cooled a little, fill the mould, and bake in a well-heated oven 30-40 minutes, so as to be of a golden-brown shade; let it stand 5 minutes after it is taken from the oven, then slip a knife round the inside of the mould, and turn out on the dish in which it is to be served; scoop out the centre, and fill with the mushrooms already prepared thus: Peel the mushrooms, put into a stewpan 2 oz. butter, let it brown, put in the mushrooms, sprinkle with salt and pepper and a blade of mace pounded, a dredge of flour, and the juice of half a lemon; shake round, and stew gently ¼ hour. (E. A. Robbins.)

Rice Pie.—Take of coarse oatmeal and of rice each one large cupful. Put it into a saucepan with enough cold water to cover it, and simmer until it is tender. Then add 2 oz. raisins or currants, 2 oz. brown sugar, 2 oz. suet, a little spice, and ½ pint skim milk. Bake in a cool oven 1 hour.

Rice Pudding.—Pick and wash in 2 or 3 waters, 2 handfuls of rice, and put it to cook in rather less than 1 qt. milk, sweetened to taste, and with the addition of the thin rind of 1 lemon, cut in one piece, and a small stick of cinnamon. Let the rice simmer gently until it has absorbed all the milk. Turn it out into a basin, and when cold, remove the lemon rind and cinnamon. Then stir into it the yolks of 4 eggs, and 1 whole egg beaten up, add a small quantity of candied citron cut into small pieces, and mix it well in. Butter and breadcrumb a plain tin mould, put the mixture into it and bake in a quick oven for about ½ hour. To ascertain when the pudding is done, insert a bright trussing needle into it, it will come out clean when the pudding is done.

Rice, Savoury.—Rice is not so much used in England as it deserves to be, or is too often sent to table in such a way as to make it unpalatable. The following mode of cooking it is an excellent one, and forms a good substitute for potatoes when that vegetable is scarce, especially as an accompaniment to a hash or stew, with rich gravy: Put 2 tablespoonfuls Carolina rice into a stone jar with ½ pint good stock, 1 tablespoonful Worcester sauce, ½ tomato, 1 onion chopped finely, a very little garlic (if the flavour is not liked, this may be omitted), ½ oz. butter, and the same of dripping or bacon fat; a little black pepper, 1 teaspoonful salt, and 1 chili, or cayenne pepper to taste; cover with a perforated lid to allow evaporation, and set in a slow oven for about 2 hours, until all the liquor is absorbed. On no account stir the rice, but shake occasionally if necessary; every grain will then be separate.

Rice Shape.—Boil 2 oz. Patna rice, well picked and washed, in 1 pint milk, sweetened to taste, and flavoured with vanilla; dissolve ½ oz. gelatine in ½ pint milk, and add it to the rice with ½ pint cream. Stir the mixture lightly until cold, put it into a shape, set it on ice or in a cold place, and when firm turn it out and serve with custard or jam, or with both.

Rice Soufflé.—Pick and wash a teacupful of rice. Put it into a saucepan with 1 pint milk sweetened to taste, and a pod of vanilla; let the milk boil till the rice is thoroughly done. When cold, remove the vanilla and work in the yolks of 6 eggs one by one; then stir in the whites of 8 eggs whipped to a stiff froth. Pour the mixture into a plain cake mould; put it into the oven at once; bake for about ½ hour, and serve in the mould with a napkin pinned round it.

Rice Sweet Dish.—Boil some rice in milk, thick, but not too soft, add sugar and vanilla or cinnamon, and spread it out to cool on a buttered tin plate; stand the plate to keep a little warm, and cut pieces from the rice, roll it on a board spread with breadcrumbs into croquettes, sprinkle with egg and crumbs, and bake or fry in butter. The flavouring can be varied by sprinkling grated chocolate in the rice, or pounded almonds, currants, raisins, &c. In rolling out spread preserve, roll the rice round it and serve with chocolate or caramel sauce.

Richelieu Pudding.—Remove the outer skin from the white flesh either of a pheasant or a fowl; mince it finely. Stew some truffles in white wine, and mince them also. Make a smooth paste with a little water, butter, flour, and salt to taste: leave it to get cold. Take 8 oz. meat, 4 oz. butter, 2 oz. paste, and a small quantity of the minced truffles; pound all well in a mortar, adding gradually the whites of 2 eggs, the yolks of 3, and a small quantity of sauce (made from the trimmings of the fowl); add salt, pepper, and nutmeg. When quite smooth roll out the forcemeat with flour, and shape it into balls or cutlets; drop them into nearly boiling stock, do not let them quite boil. When sufficiently cooked, drain and leave them till cold, egg and breadcrumb them; after 2 hours, egg and breadcrumb them again, and fry in boiling lard. Serve with truffle sauce, or make a sauce with the trimmings of the fowl or game, flavour it well with shallot, and add a glass of sherry or white wine.

Richmond Maids of Honour.—To 6 oz. fresh butter add ½ lb. dry curd, and mix well together. In another basin beat up the yolks of 4 eggs with a wineglassful of brandy; to this add a very mealy cold boiled potato, well powdered, and free from lumps, 6 oz. castor sugar, 1 oz. each sweet and bitter almonds well pounded, the juice of 1 and the grated rinds of 3 lemons, and ½ grated nutmeg. Mix these well together, and add to the curds and butter. Again mix very thoroughly. Butter a number of tartlet pans, line them with the best puff paste, and place a spoonful of the mixture into each; put them without delay into the oven, and bake quickly. When done the paste should be very light and pale-coloured, and the interior a delicate golden-brown.

Risotto.-½ lb. whole rice, 3 oz. butter, 1 shallot or small onion, some rich gravy, 2 gr. saffron, a little grated nutmeg, 3 oz. Parmesan cheese, pepper and salt to taste. Wash the rice, melt the butter in a stewpan, and fry the shallot, chopped, until of a light gold colour. Put in the rice and fry it, stirring constantly for 10 minutes, over a slow fire; then add some boiling, strong gravy and boil all up for 18 minutes; draw it back, have ready the saffron soaked in a little hot water, strain it into the rice, then add 3 oz. grated Parmesan, a few dice of fresh butter, and a pinch of grated nutmeg; stir all together for a minute over the fire, and serve at once very hot. The risotto should be of a pale gold colour, the rice kept whole, and not too dry.

Roman Pudding.—Butter your basin and line it with well-boiled macaroni, round like a beehive; have ready veal, ham, tongue, chicken, or cold game (all cut very fine), 1 oz. Parmesan cheese, a little nutmeg, pepper, salt, lemon peel, and cayenne, 2 eggs, and a cupful of cream. Mix all together, and fill your basin; boil for ½ hour, glaze it, and serve it up with good brown gravy. It is very good cold. Less cream if you do not wish it to be very rich.

Russian Jelly.—Take 2 oz. Nelson’s or 14 sheets best French gelatine, soak them in a little more than 1 pint hot water. When dissolved add sugar to taste, the juice of 1 lemon, the whites of 2 eggs beaten up to a froth, and 2 liqueur glasses of cognac. Whisk on the fire till the whole boils; place the thin rind of the lemon at the bottom of a jelly bag, pour the mixture over, and when it has passed out clear and is almost set, whisk it with an egg whisk until it assumes the consistency of white of egg whisked to a froth. Fill a mould with the frothed jelly, press it well down, and place it in a cool place or on ice to set.

Sago Pudding.—Take fruit of almost any kind, apples, rhubarb, raspberries, blackberries, &c.; stew until soft with water or not as required, and then add sufficient small sago to make it thick, and stew till all is a jelly. It is particularly nice made with rhubarb, and can be eaten hot or cold turned out of a shape.

St. Honoré Pudding.—Make a stiff, short paste with flour, butter, eggs, and water; roll it out flat, cut out a round about 6 in. in diameter, and place it on a baking sheet. Make some choux paste as follows: Put about 1 pint water into a saucepan with a few grains of salt, a piece of butter the size of an egg, and as much sugar, with plenty of grated lemon peel. When the water boils, throw gradually into it sufficient flour to make a thick paste; then take it off the fire, let it remain 10 minutes, and work into it 3 or 4 eggs. When cold, put this paste into a biscuit bag, and press out a roll of it all round the disc of short paste, uniting the two ends neatly together. Then on another baking sheet press out a number of balls the size of a walnut, put the 2 sheets in a moderate oven until the paste is baked to a good colour. Then stick with white of egg all these balls on the top of the roll of choux paste, quite close together. In the case so prepared place a layer of stewed pears, and over it some whipped cream well heaped up in the centre. The roll and border of choux balls may be, or not, glazed with sugar at the time of baking, and may be ornamented with glacé cherries, grapes, &c., according to taste.

Samp Pancakes.—Boil 1 pint samp, drain it, and add to it while hot 1 pint white corn meal, 1 saltspoonful salt, and 3 tablespoonfuls of fresh butter. When cool add 3 eggs, beaten very light, or 3 tablespoonfuls strong yeast; the whole should form a thick batter. Bake them upon a griddle, which should be greased or scraped before each cake is baked; serve with butter. If yeast be used in preference to eggs, they should be made several hours before they are needed. Cover them in a warm place, and do not bake them until they are well risen.

Samp Pudding.—Boil 1 pint milk, and stir into it 3 tablespoonfuls butter and 3 of sugar, with 1 tablespoonful nutmeg and powdered cinnamon mixed; set it away to cool; then add 6 well-beaten eggs with 1 pint cold boiled samp, beat it well, pour it into a deep dish, and bake for 1 hour; ½ pint molasses may be used instead of sugar, and the pudding may be tied in a cloth, and boiled instead of baked.

Singing Hinny.—1 lb. flour, ¼ lb. butter, ¼ lb. currants, mix with cream, roll it out rather thin, and bake on a girdle.

Sir Watkin Wynn’s Pudding.—6 oz. chopped lemon peel, 4 oz. beef suet chopped fine, 4 oz. white breadcrumbs, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 3 oz. moist sugar, 2 oz. apricot jam, a small liqueur glass of maraschino or of curaçoa, 1 dessertspoonful milk, 3 fresh eggs. Mix all together, pour into a buttered shape, and steam 3 hours. Apricot jam sauce to be served under the pudding.

Snowballs.—(a) Wash ½ lb. rice thoroughly, then take some small pudding cloths, grease them, and spread over each a layer of rice. Pare and core some apples, put one in the middle of each layer of rice, draw up the ends of the cloth carefully, so that the apple is smothered in the grain, tie tightly, and boil. (b) Boil the rice till quite soft, sweetening it to taste, then put it into small round cups. When quite cold turn out, and sift white sugar over them. These are very nice eaten with custard.

Snow Cake.—1 lb. potato flour, ¼ lb. white sugar, ½ lb. butter, worked to a cream, the whites of 6 eggs well whisked. Mix all together for 20 minutes, season with ½ teaspoonful essence of lemon. Bake in a moderate oven. To test if baked stick a clean knife through the middle, and when it comes out clean and dry the cake is ready; it must be put into a buttered tin. The cake should have a pretty brown colour outside, not too dark; inside it is white as snow, hence the name.

Snow Mould.—Melt ½ small packet Nelson’s gelatine in ½ pint water, add to it ½ lb. grated sugar, the whites of 2 eggs, and the juice of 2 good-sized lemons. Whip the whole mixture for about 20 minutes, pour into a mould. Serve with custard over.

Snow Pancakes.—Mix in a basin ¼ lb. flour, with a little salt, some grated lemon peel, and sufficient new milk to make rather a thick batter, mix and beat the mixture well. Melt some butter (or fresh dripping) in a frying pan, divide the batter into 4 parts, and just before frying beat up very quickly 1 tablespoonful fresh snow into each pancake. Fry on both sides till of a pale brown colour, fold them up, inserting a little sugar within the folds, sprinkle sugar over them, and serve immediately with a cut lemon and powdered sugar.

Snowdon Pudding.—Put 1½ oz. sago (the small kind), or ground rice, and 6 oz. veal suet chopped as finely as possible, and quite free from skin, into a basin, add a pinch of salt, 12 oz. sifted breadcrumbs, ¼ lb. orange marmalade, rather more than less, and the yolks and whites of 4 eggs well beaten. Mix well, add 3 teaspoonfuls brandy, and sweeten to taste with powdered loaf sugar. The above quantity would probably take about 4 tablespoonfuls, but no rule can be laid down for it, as some marmalade is so sweet that but little sugar would be wanted. Butter a plain mould, not sparing the butter, ornament the bottom and sides with dried cherries or raisins, and then fill it with the mixture. In doing this be very careful not to displace the fruit; it would not do to pour it in, it should be put in with a spoon. Cover with buttered writing-paper, and steam for 1½ hour. Turn out carefully, letting it stand to cool for 1-2 minutes before doing so. Dilute some marmalade by pouring a very little boiling water over it, just enough to enable the chips of peel to be strained off; if not sweet enough, stir in a little white sugar, and pour it as sauce round, but not over the pudding. If preferred, wine sauce may be served with it, but the other looks better, and keeps up the flavour of the marmalade used in making the pudding.

Soufflé.—Butter, 3 oz.; sugar, 3 oz.; flour, 6 oz.; milk, 1 pint; rind of 1 lemon, a little grated nutmeg, ½ wineglass of brandy. Beat the butter to a cream (this may be done quickly by putting it into a warm basin, and stirring it backwards with the hand), add 4 well-whisked eggs, the flour, and sugar (some of the lumps of which have been rubbed on a fresh lemon to extract the flavour, and then pounded with the rest), a grate of nutmeg, the brandy, and by degrees the milk. Butter a soufflé dish or pie dish, pour into it the mixture, and bake in a well-heated oven 30-40 minutes, but do not take from the oven till wanted for table. Many good light puddings are spoiled by taking from the oven or pot before they are wanted.

Sponge Cake Pudding.—Butter a mould or basin, and stick it over with small pieces of preserved ginger, or sultana raisins. Soak some sponge cake in sherry, and when the wine is absorbed put it into the basin, and fill it up with custard. Boil about 1 hour, and serve with sweet sauce.

Sponge Pudding.—Rub 6 oz. butter or beef dripping into 1 lb. dry flour, in which a level dessertspoonful of ground ginger and 6 oz. brown sugar have been mixed; dissolve 2 level teaspoonfuls soda carbonate in ½ pint milk, mixing it smooth and free from lumps before adding to the flour. Beat all together into a soft batter, and pour into a buttered basin. Allow the pudding plenty of room to swell in the cloth, which it does considerably; plunge into very fast boiling water, and keep boiling 2½ hours. Turn it out, and serve with wine sauce; but some prefer to eat it dry.

Strawberry Chartreuse.—Take 1 qt. calvesfoot jelly, well flavoured with lemon peel alone. Take a quantity of fine strawberries freed from stalks, and cut in half length-wise. Warm the jelly sufficiently to pour out. Have 2 plain moulds, one about 1¼ in. more in diameter than the other; pour a very little jelly at the bottom of the larger mould, and place in it a layer of strawberries, cover them with more jelly, but only put enough to get a smooth surface; lay this on ice to set. When it is quite firm, put the small mould inside the large one, taking care to place it exactly in the middle, so that the vacant space between the two moulds be of the same width. In this vacant space dispose strawberries prepared as above, filling up the interstices as you go on with jelly until the whole of the space is filled up. Place the mould upon ice; whip 1 pint cream to a froth, dissolve ½ oz. isinglass in a little water, mix it with rather more than a cupful of strawberry juice sweetened to taste and obtained by mashing the fruit and pressing it through a tammy. Add this to the whipped cream a little at a time. When the cream is ready and the jelly set, remove the inner mould by pouring warm water into it, and fill up the inner space of the chartreuse with the cream. Set it on ice for an hour, turn out, and serve.

Strawberry Cream.—Take 3 pints ripe strawberries, and crush each one separately. Put them in a basin with 4 oz. powdered loaf sugar, stir until the sugar is melted, and well mixed with the pulped strawberries, then put them in a trifle dish. Now put 1 qt. cream in a saucepan on a stove, and when at boiling point stir in 2 oz. arrowroot mixed with a little cold new milk. Let this boil for 1 minute, then set it aside until sufficiently cool not to risk breaking your dish, when pour it over the pulped strawberries, and put the dish in a cool place until the cream is cold and set. Just before serving cover the cream with the whites of 6 eggs, beaten to a solid froth. If colour is liked, a portion of the white of egg may be coloured with a few drops of prepared cochineal, and put in the centre of the dish. Raspberries are very good served in this way.

Strawberry Shortcake.—1 qt. flour, 5 oz. lard, 1 even teaspoonful soda, 2 teaspoonfuls cream of tartar, a pinch of salt. Mix the salt and cream of tartar with the flour, pass it through a sieve, then rub the lard with the flour, add the soda dissolved in enough milk to form a soft dough; divide it into 4 parts, roll one part out, cover a straight-sided Vienna cake tin with it, roll out another piece and lay it upon the first, cut the edges off evenly. Repeat this with the remaining two pieces and another tin. Bake quickly. When done lift the upper piece of crust from each cake., butter the inner surfaces and place between the two crusts a layer 1 in. thick of fresh berries slightly mashed and sweetened. Cover the top with fresh berries, sift a little sugar over them and serve at once. It is eaten in slices with rich cream poured over it. A pretty way to make them is to cut the dough with a tart-cutter 3½ in. in diameter; bake two pieces, one on top of the other, place strawberries between, as above, and serve one little cake to each person with cream round it.

Strawberry Tartlets.—Make some short paste with 2 oz. sugar, 2 oz. butter, the yolks of 4 eggs, a little water, a pinch of salt, and sufficient flour; work it lightly, and roll it out to the thickness of ⅛ in. Line some patty-pans with it, fill them with uncooked rice to keep their shape, and bake them in a moderate oven till done. Remove the stalks from some strawberries, add some syrup made with sugar and a little brandy or sherry. Empty the tartlets of the rice, fill each with the strawberries. Put them in the oven to get warm, and serve.

Suet Pudding.—(a) ½ lb. flour, ½ lb. beef suet chopped fine, 1 teaspoonful salt. Mix with sufficient milk or water to keep them together; boil 2½ hours in a basin or a cloth. (b) 1 lb. beef suet chopped fine, 6 large spoonfuls flour, 1 teaspoonful grated ginger, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1½ pint milk, and 4 eggs. Boil 3 hours in a basin, or 2½ hours in a cloth, (c) 1½ pint milk mixed with 1 lb. flour, add 2 eggs, 4 large spoonfuls beef suet chopped fine, ½ lb. currants or raisins stoned, 1 teaspoonful grated ginger, the juice of a lemon (or the rind of one grated), a very little salt and brown sugar to taste. Butter a pie dish, fill with the mixture, bake 1½ hour, turn it out, and serve with powdered sugar over and wine sauce round.

Swiss Pastry.—Weigh 3 or more eggs in the shell, and take their weight in powdered sugar, in dried flour, and in fresh butter. Put the butter in a basin, and set it over another containing hot water to remain until melted; then stir in the sugar by degrees, using a wooden spoon. When well mixed gradually add the flour, and also a pinch of salt, stirring all the time. When the flour is all in, break in one of the eggs without beating it, merely removing the speck, and then adding the egg, both yolk and white; whisk the batter well; then add another egg in the same way, again whisk, and so on till all the eggs are in. Continue the whisking until the batter looks light. Have ready a shallow tin with a rim to it, which must be lined with paper plentifully buttered; pour in the mixture directly it is ready, and put it at once into the oven to bake until firm and slightly brown. The pastry should not be more than 1 in. thick. A very clean Yorkshire pudding tin may be used to bake it in, or a good-sized cutlet pan is as good as anything. When cold, cut it into any fancy shapes, splitting the cake and putting strawberry or apricot jam between; cut into fingers, which maybe iced over the top, some pink and some white—they make a very pretty dish. For making into a set shape, hollow oval cutters are the best, in graduated sizes. Put the largest piece at the bottom of either a glass or silver dish, spread a layer of strawberry or raspberry jam on it, then the next size, and so on till the smallest piece at the top is also covered with jam. Make a border round of apricot jam, and fill up the hollow with whipped cream. A very slight sprinkling of finely chopped pistachio nuts may be strewn over the top of the cream by way of ornament if desired.

Swiss Pudding.—Take the yolks of 7 eggs, ½ oz. isinglass, beat them well, add 1 pint good milk and sugar to taste. Put this in a mould, and boil the pudding ¾ hour exactly. Let it stand in the mould till cold. The sauce for this pudding is made with ¼ pint white wine, ¼ lb. sugar, with the juice and the rind of a lemon pared very thin. Boil this till it becomes like a syrup. When cold, pour it round the pudding, but not till it is ready to be sent to table, then put a few strips of orange marmalade or apricot jam on the top and round the pudding.

Swiss Roll.—Take the weight of 3 or 4 eggs in their shells of finely powdered sugar, and the same weight of butter and flour. Melt the butter, add the sugar and the yolks of the eggs (freed from the speck); beat the mixture well, add the beaten-up whites of half the eggs, then half the flour, the rest of the whites (also beaten up), and of the flour. When quite smooth spread it out about ½ in. thick over a well-buttered tin, and bake for 15-20 minutes in a moderate oven, spread it all over equally with jam, roll it up, and put it into the oven again for a short time, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve cold; if liked, with custard over it.

Tansy Pudding.—Boil 1 qt. milk with a little lemon peel and 2 laurel leaves, strain it over a ¼ lb. Naples biscuit; beat up the yolks of 8 and the whites of 4 eggs with 1 spoonful rose-water; put 1 handful tansy leaves and 2 handfuls spinach in a mortar, pound them and squeeze the juice through a cloth; grate in half a nutmeg, put in ½ lb. fine sugar with ½ lb. butter melted. Mix the ingredients all together, put it over a slow fire, and keep it stirring till it is thick, then take it off and set it away to cool, and stir in a glass of brandy. Put a puff paste round the edge of the dish, pour in the ingredients, put a little candied sweetmeats over it, and bake it ¾ hour in a moderate oven.

Tapioca Cream.—Take equal quantities pearl tapioca and raw cream, boil the tapioca thoroughly, whip the cream till it drops thickly from the spoon; mix the two together, flavour with lemon or vanilla essence, and sweeten to taste, serve cold in a glass dish. This is excellent, eaten with either preserved peaches, pears, &c., or stewed fruit.

Tapioca Pudding.—Boil ¼ lb. tapioca with 1 pint milk sweetened to taste, and flavoured with either lemon peel, vanilla, or orange-flower water according to taste; pour the mixture into a buttered pie dish, and bake for ½ hour. If preferred with eggs, the boiled tapioca should be allowed to cool, and then 2 eggs well beaten up may be added before baking; but this kind of pudding is more wholesome, especially for children, without eggs, if made with plenty of milk.

Tapioca Snow.—Take 3 tablespoonfuls tapioca, and put in a stewpan with a piece of butter the size of a hazel nut and 1 pint milk; let it boil until transparent. Whip 2 yolks of eggs for 10 minutes, and put into it. Turn out into a dish, then whip the whites of the eggs to a strong froth with a pinch of salt, and when they are well frothed, add 3 oz. not too finely pounded sugar. If liked, flavour the tapioca.

Tapioca Soufflé.—Soak 1 tablespoonful tapioca in water for 2 hours, set it to boil, adding powdered loaf sugar to taste, and milk till the mixture is of the consistency of porridge; flavour it with grated lemon peel, work in when cold the yolks of 3 and the whites of 4 or 5 eggs whisked to a stiff froth; then pour quickly into a soufflé mould, and bake till it has well risen; serve immediately.

Tipsy Puddings.—Beat up for about 10 minutes 4 eggs, freed from the speck, with 4 oz. powdered loaf sugar; then gradually incorporate with them 4 oz. finest pastry flour. Warm some dariole moulds and prepare them as follows; Put some liquefied fresh butter in the mould, turn it round in all directions so as to get it evenly buttered, pour off superfluous butter, and before it has time to cool put some glacé sugar (loaf sugar very finely sifted) into it, turn it over so as to get a coating of sugar all over, then tap the mould gently on the table so as to get rid of all the sugar that does not adhere to the butter. When all the moulds are thus prepared fill them evenly with the composition, and bake for 20-25 minutes in a slow oven. Turn out the puddings, trimming the tops if necessary. Melt 3 tablespoonfuls powdered loaf sugar in ½ tumbler old rum; dispose the puddings on a dish, and with a spoon pour the sweetened rum over each in turn. Strew some minced pistachio nuts over the top of the puddings, placing a preserved cherry on each, and serve cold.

Treacle Pie.—Line a pie dish with thin paste, cover with treacle as for roly-poly pudding, and continue alternate layers of paste and treacle till the dish is full, finishing with paste; bake in a moderate oven.

Treacle Pudding.-½ lb. flour, 1 oz. suet (finely chopped), ¼ lb. treacle, pinch salt, 1 teaspoonful ginger, 1 teaspoonful baking powder. Mix, cover with greased paper, and steam 3 hours, taking care that it never stops cooking. The baking powder is home made. The pudding should be like sponge cake.

Trifle.—Place in a glass dish a layer of macaroons and ratafias, moisten them with 1 glass sherry and ½ glass brandy; put a layer of apricot jam or quince jelly over this. Make a plain custard, and when cold pour it over the jam or jelly. Take 1½ pint rich cream, ¼ lb. sifted sugar, the juice of 1 lemon, the grated peel of ½ lemon, 2 tablespoonfuls noyeau, and 1 of white wine; whisk the whole well together, and as the froth rises lay it on a sieve in a cool place. Cover the custard with the whipped cream. Ornament with crystallized fruit and strips of angelica.

Tutti Fruiti.—Soak 4 penny sponge cakes in 1 wineglassful orange or raisin wine, and put over them a layer of jam. Make a custard with the yolks of 3 eggs, and pour over the whole. Make a stiff whip of the whites, and arrange this over the custard. Scatter all over the top two pennyworth of hundreds-and-thousands, and arrange some very thin strips of candied peel in a pattern on the top of the whip, and serve.

Vanilla Cream.—Boil a stick of vanilla in 1½ pint milk, with sugar to taste. Beat up the yolks of 8 eggs, pour the flavoured milk on them, and keep on stirring in a bain-marie until the custard thickens. Melt 9 sheets best French gelatine in a little milk, add this to the custard. Whisk to a froth ½ pint cream, mix quickly with the custard, put into a mould, place it in a cold place or on ice to set, and at the time of serving dip the mould in hot water, and turn out the cream.

Vanilla Soufflé.—Put into a saucepan a piece of fresh butter the size of a walnut, 1 large tablespoonful flour, a small pinch of salt, and stir in gradually ½ pint milk; add powdered loaf sugar to taste, and stir on the fire till the mixture thickens and boils. When nearly cold work into it the yolks of 4 eggs, and as much vanilla essence as will flavour it strongly, and then, quickly and thoroughly, the whites of 6 eggs whisked to a stiff froth; pour the mixture into a tin large enough to allow room for rising, strew a little finely powdered sugar over it, and place the tin at once into a quick oven. It will take 15-20 minutes to cook, and as soon as the soufflé has well risen, and the top has taken a good colour, it is ready, and must be served immediately in the tin, a little finely powdered sugar being sprinkled on the top.

Venus Pudding.—Take a quart mould, butter it well, and ornament it with candied ginger; make a rich custard with the yolks of 12 and the whites of 6 eggs, 1 pint cream, and loaf sugar to taste, then dissolve 1 oz. isinglass in sufficient milk to fill up the mould; when cold add a glass of rum or sherry; pour the mixture into the mould, and place it on ice to set. Before adding the isinglass put aside a little of the custard for sauce, add some ginger syrup to this, and serve cold with the pudding.

Victoria Pudding.—This requires care in its preparation, and should be made the day before it is wanted. Make a custard with 4 eggs, 1 pint milk, and ¾ oz. isinglass, flavouring it with vanilla and brandy. The vanilla should be cut into small pieces, tied up in a muslin bag, and boiled in the milk; the brandy should be added when cold; a very small quantity of the latter is sufficient. Let the custard get quite cold, when it will become thick and lumpy. Dip a jelly-mould into cold water, and with a spoon arrange the custard in the design at the bottom of the mould, carefully filling all the holes. Slice some penny sponge cakes in halves, dip them in sherry or Marsala, and then place them in layers in the centre of the mould, with preserves (either strawberry or raspberry) between each layer, filling up in the meanwhile the space between the cake and the mould with custard, so that when turned out the custard appears as a crust around it. It should remain in the mould for at least 12 hours to stiffen. Turn it out on a dish and garnish with strawberry jelly.

Waffles.—1 qt. sour milk, 4 eggs, 3 oz. butter, ½ teaspoonful salt, 2 teaspoonfuls soda, flour enough to make a thick batter. Bake and serve hot.

Wigs.—Take ¼ peck of fine flour, ½ lb. butter rubbed in fine, ½ lb. sugar, ½ nutmeg, ½ race of ginger, 3 eggs, beat well, and put to ½ pint yeast and 3 spoonfuls sack; make a hole in the flour, and pour in, with as much milk just warm as will make it into a light paste. Let it stand before the fire, to rise, ½ hour; then make it into 1½ doz. wigs, brush them over with egg, and put into the oven. Bake ½ hour in a quick oven.

Wine Jelly.—2 oz. gelatine, ¾ lb. loaf sugar, 3 lemons, ½ pint sherry, 1 wineglassful brandy, whites of 4 eggs, 1½ pint water. Put the water, gelatine, sugar, and the rinds of the lemons, peeled very thinly, into a pan. Stir till the gelatine and sugar have dissolved, and boil; then add the strained lemon juice, wine, and the whites of eggs, whipped with a little cold water. Bring slowly to the boil, and throw in a little cold water 3 times to check the boiling and throw off the scum. Allow to simmer ¼ hour, then strain through a cloth or jelly bag (which has been rinsed out in hot water) 2 or 3 times until clear, then add brandy. When the jelly is beginning to set, pour into a wet mould.

Wine Roll.—Soak a penny roll in raisin wine till it has quite absorbed all the liquid. Sprinkle it thickly with “hundreds-and-thousands,” and pour round it a rich custard. Jam may be previously spread over the roll (before soaking) if liked.

Winter Cream.-½ oz. gelatine, 1 pint new milk, 1 pint cream, 2 yolks eggs, ½ pot apricots, ½ pot strawberry jam (pound pots), juice of 1 lemon, a few drops of ratafia essence, a few drops of cochineal. Soak the gelatine in a little of the milk; when it has absorbed the milk, put it into a clean copper stewpan with the rest of the milk and the cream; set on the fire, keeping it stirred with a wooden spoon; when it is nearly boiling stir into it the well-beaten yolks of 2 eggs, but be sure it does not boil, or the cream will be curdled. Now take from the fire and pour into a large basin; mix with it thoroughly the jam, which has been rubbed through a hair sieve, adding the ratafia and the lemon juice, also a little cochineal to give it a brighter colour. When the cream begins to set, whisk it a few minutes, and put into a mould, and set away in a cool place. In a few hours it will be ready to serve. (E. A. Robbins.)

Yorkshire Pudding.—5 tablespoonfuls flour, pinch of salt, 1 pint new milk, 2 eggs. Put flour and salt into a bowl, add slowly the milk to make a smooth batter, then add the eggs, previously well beaten. Fat should be put into the tin and allowed to come to boil, the batter is then to be poured in and baked 20 minutes in a hot oven. Can be finished under the joint if desired.

Confectionery

Confectionery.—The following recipes comprise the few kinds which are adopted for home manufacture.

Almond Hardbake.—Mix 1½ lb. moist sugar with ¾ pint water, put the mixture into an earthenware pipkin, and let it boil until it is brittle. Blanch 2½ oz. sweet almonds, split them in halves lengthwise through the broadest part of the almond, and add them and 3 oz. butter to the boiled sugar; let it continue to boil until it hardens. Try by letting a little bit of the hardbake fall into cold water; if it hardens immediately, it is done. Oil a flat dish, and pour the hardbake on it to set.

Barley Sugar.—Dissolve and boil 1½ lb. loaf sugar in ½ pint water and the white of ½ egg; when it is at candy height, add a teaspoonful of strained lemon juice, and boil it quickly till it recovers its former state; pour it over a marble slab, and when it becomes stiff cut it in strips and twist it.

Chestnuts, Candied.—Remove the outer skin from some large chestnuts, rejecting any one of them which is not perfectly sound; throw them into a tinned pan full of boiling water, and let them boil just long enough to allow of the second skin being removed. Having done this, put them into another similar pan full of boiling water, and as soon as they are done (they should be tender, but rather underdone) drain the water from them, and put them into a basin full of lukewarm water, with the juice of 1 or 2 lemons squeezed in it. When the water is perfectly cold take out the chestnuts very carefully, and dry them; put them into a basin, and cover them with clarified sugar boiling hot, prepared as follows: Take 6 lb. pounded sugar and put it into a sugar boiler—an untinned copper vessel—with 1 qt. water. Beat up the whites of 3 eggs with 1 pint water, and add this to the rest. Set the pan on the fire, and keep stirring the sugar; when it rises add a little cold water, and repeat this every time the sugar rises until 1 pint water has been so expended, and by that time the sugar will no longer rise, and a dark scum will have gathered on the top. Remove the scum carefully, and strain the syrup through a wetted napkin. Put the syrup back into the boiler—having previously scoured it quite clean—and boil until on taking some between thumb and finger and drawing them apart the sugar will form a thread. The next day put the chestnuts with the syrup into the sugar boiler, and let them boil for 5 minutes, then put them by in the syrup to remain another day. The third day strain off the syrup, boil it till on being raised on the skimmer, and blown through it will form into bubbles; pour this over the chestnuts. On the following day prepare some syrup as above, and boil it till a small modicum dropped into cold water will harden, and can be made into a ball; drain the chestnuts from the former syrup, dip them carefully one by one in the fresh syrup, and put them on a wire sieve in a warm place to dry. When dry they are ready.

Chocolate Creams.—(a) Mix 2 oz. Bermuda arrowroot smoothly with 1½ gill cold water; add 12 oz. pulverised sugar, and boil rapidly 8-10 minutes, stirring continually. Remove it from the fire, and stir till a little cool; flavour with vanilla or rose; continue stirring till it creams, then roll into little balls. Melt some chocolate over steam (add no water), and when the cream balls are cold roll them in it one by one, and lay on a buttered slab to cool. The creams may be varied by dividing the cream into 3 parts, adding grated coconut to one, chopped almonds to another, and pistachios to the third.

(b) Grate 8 oz. vanilla chocolate; put into a stewpan, with 8 oz. sugar, 8 yolks of eggs, 1 pint cream. Stir the whole over the fire until the preparation begins to thicken, allowing the yolks to sufficiently set without curdling; strain the cream through a clean napkin, placed over a fine hair sieve, then pass it again through a tammy cloth with pressure into a basin, then clarify 1 oz. best cut isinglass, or gelatine; mix the whole well together, and pour it into a mould embedded in rough ice.

(c) Put 1 lb. loaf sugar in a stewpan; pour upon it as much milk or thin cream as the sugar will absorb. Dissolve it over the fire, and boil slowly until it will candy when dropped into cold water. Neither stir it, nor allow it to stick to the pan; take it off and stir it until you can cream it with a spoon. Add a tablespoonful of extract of vanilla, and beat it till cool enough to handle. Then fashion it into balls the size of a filbert; lay these aside on buttered paper. Put ½ lb. unsweetened pure chocolate in a tin plate over a kettle of boiling water, and when it is dissolved dip the bonbons into it and lay them out on buttered paper to cool. If the sugar grains like sand instead of creaming, it has been boiled too long, and it will be necessary to begin anew with other sugar.

Coconut Candy.—Place in an earthen pipkin 1 lb. best loaf sugar cut as for table, with a breakfastcupful of cold spring water. Let it remain until the sugar is dissolved, and then set it on a clear fire to boil for about 5 minutes, or rather more. As the scum rises carefully skim it away until the sugar looks quite white and thick, and then stir into it ¼ lb. grated coconut, taking care that it is a nice fresh one. Again set it on the fire, and with a wooden spoon stir it continuously until it rises quite up in the pipkin, then at once spread it out on well-dried sheets of writing-paper, which should be warmed before the fire before putting the coconut upon them; the paste should be rather more than ½ in. thick. Let it remain in this way until nearly but not quite cold, when the paper must be removed, and it can then be cut up into small squares. Let it get thoroughly dry before storing it in tin boxes for use. It is an improvement to give it a slightly pink colour by adding a few drops of cochineal to the sugar just before putting in the coconut. Some people grate this, and spread it out to dry for a day or two before it is used for candy.

Marzipan.—(a) ½ lb. almonds, ¾ lb. sugar, the white of an egg, and the juice of half a lemon. The whole to be well pounded together till it acquires the consistency of a soft dough.

(b) Blanch, and then pound very fine 1 lb. sweet and a few bitter almonds, adding a few spoonfuls of rosewater; put the almond paste in a stewpan with 1 lb. powdered sugar, and stir over the fire till a smooth paste is obtained, which will not stick to the finger when touched. Turn it out on to a pasteboard well strewn with powdered sugar; roll out the paste, divide it into cakes of any shape you like, and put them on sheets of paper on the baking sheet well sprinkled with sugar; bake in a slow oven until of a pale yellow colour.

Popcorn Candy.—Put into an iron kettle 1 tablespoonful butter, 3 tablespoonfuls water, and 1 cup white sugar; boil until ready to candy, then throw in 3 qt. nicely popped corn; stir vigorously until the sugar is evenly distributed over the corn; take the kettle from the fire, and stir until it cools a little, and in this way you may have each kernel separate and all coated with the sugar. Of course, it must have your undivided attention from the first to prevent scorching. Almonds, walnuts, or, in fact, any nuts are delicious prepared in this way.

Toffee.—(a) Take 1 breakfastcupful rich cream (if slightly sour it would be just as good, or better), 1 breakfastcupful pounded white sugar, pour the above into a very clean copper saucepan, and boil slowly over a clear but not too hot fire. The mixture will first become quite liquid, and will afterwards gradually thicken; when almost done pour in 1 dessertspoonful essence of vanilla and 1 of whisky. When the mixture becomes very frothy, and leaves the sides of the pan clean, pour it out as quickly as possible on to a flat buttered dish. It should set at once, cut it into squares; before it is cold it should be quite smooth, and of a creamy white; it should be “short,” without being at all crisp or crumbly. The only difficulty is to know the exact moment to take it off the fire. This can only be learned by practice.

(b) Put 3 oz. butter into a brass preserving pan, and, as soon as it is melted, add 1 lb. brown sugar. Keep these stirred gently over a moderate fire for 15 minutes, or until a little of it, dropped into cold water, breaks clean between the teeth without sticking to them. When it is boiled to this point it must be poured out immediately, or it will burn. The grated rind of a lemon, or a small teaspoonful of powdered ginger added when half done, very much improves the taste.

(c) 1 lb. treacle or golden syrup, 1 lb. moist whity-brown or Demerara (this is best) sugar, ½ lb. fresh butter. Mix the treacle and sugar well together in a large china-lined saucepan, and add the butter broken into small pieces. Place the saucepan on a clear fire, and stir slowly until all be incorporated. After this stop stirring, or the toffee will “sugar”; boil about ½ hour, and be careful not to let it burn. The juice of ½ lemon added is a great improvement. Have a buttered tin ready to pour the toffee on, and when nearly done put a little into cold water to taste if it be done enough.

(d) Put ¼ lb. butter into a saucepan over a clear fire, and when it is melted add to it 1 lb. brown sugar; boil for 15 minutes. Have ready some almonds (1½ oz.) blanched and halved, and a little very finely grated lemon peel. Add these to the mixture, boil and stir until when dropped into cold water it hardens directly; then immediately pour it on to well-buttered dishes or on to marble slabs. The almonds may be added after the toffee is put on to the dishes. Also, ½ lb. treacle and ½ lb. sugar may be substituted for the 1 lb. sugar. When nearly cold, it should be marked with the back of a knife.

Rahat Lukum.—Make a syrup with 3 lb. best sugar and 3 pints water; clear it with the whites of 3 eggs and the juice of a lemon. Dissolve 6 oz. purest wheat starch in ¾ pint cold water, strain it, and add it to the clear syrup when it is boiling; reduce the whole by boiling to ⅔. It should be very thick and stringy. Flavour the paste with attar of roses or any sweet essence. Have ready a large dish well covered with almond oil; empty the paste on the dish when it is cool, spread it about 1 in. thick, then have ready another dish covered with finely-powdered sugar, and when the paste is quite cold turn it over very carefully upon the sugared dish. Absorb the oil with silver paper or blotting paper; cut the paste into pieces 2-3 in. square; powder them with sugar, and keep them very dry. A finer rahat is made with rose or cherry syrup, with blanched almonds stirred in before the paste thickens. This recipe was obtained at Athens from a Sciote lady. The ladies of Scios are considered the most skilful confectioners in the Levant.

Ices

Ices.—The following general remarks on ices are condensed from a series of papers on the subject by Mary Hooper, in the Queen.

Freezing-powders.—Ice, in combination with salt, is the best material for making ices; but when travelling, or in remote districts where ice is difficult to procure, freezing powders are of the greatest service, and those of the best makers are perfectly satisfactory in their action. Indeed, there is no doubt freezing powders would be more largely used than they are at present, were it not that they are more expensive than ice. For cooling water and other liquids, and for refrigerating food in the sick chamber, where it is sometimes impossible either to keep or manage ice for this purpose, freezing powders are invaluable. They are useful also when a very rapid and strong freezing mixture is required, being used instead of salt with the ice. It is desirable in choosing a freezing machine to ascertain if it is as well adapted for the use of powders as of ice, as some of them lined with metal would be corroded by the action of the former.

Keeping and Choosing Ice.—It is often necessary—in cases of sickness, for instance, in the houses of the poor—to keep a small quantity of ice without a refrigerator. This is best done by wrapping the ice first in paper—newspaper answers as well as any other—and then covering it up in woollen or other cloths; place the ice thus wrapped as much as possible out of draughts. Each time the ice is opened, dry paper should be supplied; the sheets will last for some time, and can be dried as often as desired. There is a great difference in the quality of ice. Rough English ice, from being frozen at a low temperature, is brittle, and melts rapidly; and that taken from ponds is utterly unfit for drinking purposes, for there is abundant proof that the poisonous properties of such water, and the living organisms it contains, are not destroyed by its having been frozen. Much of the foreign ice sold in this country as Wenham Lake, is uncleanly, and a necessary rule to observe in the choice of ice for the table is that it is perfectly clear and crystal-like, and of a smooth and shining surface. In all cases, after being broken up, ice should be rinsed before being sent to the table. A proper awl for breaking ice into small pieces costs but a few pence, and should always be kept at hand; otherwise, to their great injury, forks and knives, with a hammer, and other unsuitable implements, are substituted. When not in use, the point of the awl should be stuck into a cork, both to prevent its being broken or causing injury to inadvertent people.

Freezing-machines.—The only way to avoid failure in the domestic manufacture of ices is to have one of the small patented machines, which, besides being certain in action, require but 3-4 lb. ice to freeze as many quarts of ices.

The principle which guides all freezing operations is—first, to have the vessel which contains the material to be frozen embedded in the freezing mixture, ice and salt, and then so rapidly and skilfully to rotate it that ice soon begins to be made at the sides. This is then scraped to the middle, and the whole thoroughly mixed, so as to ensure an equal freezing throughout the mass. This process is continued until a satisfactory result is obtained, when the ices will be left in the freezing mixture to harden and ripen. The cost of the necessary apparatus—namely, a pail, which should have a hole, stopped with a cork, near the bottom, in order that water may be drawn off as the ice melts, a pewter freezing pot, and spatula—for freezing in the primitive manner, will be at least equal to that of a patent machine for making ices. There are a large number of these competing for public favour, each one possessing some special feature of merit. In the choice of such a machine it should be ascertained that it is simple in action, not liable to get out of order, of good seasoned wood and the best workmanship, and that ices are made in it rapidly, and with but a small quantity of freezing material. The tendency in most perpendicular machines is to freeze too hard at the bottom and too lightly at the top. This defect is remedied by the Patent Horizontal Revolving Freezer (Kent, 199 High Holborn), and the arrangement by which the ices are turned from the sides of the freezing pot to the middle is perfectly satisfactory. In one of these small freezers so small a quantity as 1 pint to 3 qt. can be frozen with 3 lb. ice in as many minutes. The tubs being closed at the end, and perfectly air-tight, prevents the waste of ice by the action of the atmosphere, and thus secures a uniformity and intensity of cold within the freezer, tending to produce very perfect, light, and smooth ices.

For whatever method ice is required for freezing, it is necessary both that it should be broken small, that is in pieces about the size of small walnuts, and be thoroughly mixed with the salt. The easiest way of breaking ice is to put it in a sack and crush it with a wooden mallet. This done, well rolled salt of strong good quality should be mixed with the ice, in the proportion of 1 lb. salt to 2-3 lb. ice. It is safe to say that nearly all the failures in making ices result from the neglect of these simple directions.

The expense of a thermometer for taking the temperature of ices, and a saccharometer for ascertaining the correct amount of sweetness in ices, is but small, and they are real helps to inexperienced confectioners. For instance, if there is any doubt about the ices being sufficiently frozen, if the thermometer registers less than 22°F. you will be sure that the ices will not melt too rapidly on being served. Even in the hottest weather, a well-made ice will not dissolve as soon as taken from the freezer.

As it is only for a short period in the year that the favourite fruits for flavouring ices can be had fresh, it is necessary to make of them syrups or preserves. To make strawberry and the like preserves without sugar is somewhat difficult in domestic practice, though, if the niceties of the process are observed, failure ought not to follow.

Dessert ices are now served in many beautiful forms, to represent flowers, fruit, vegetables, and other tasteful objects. For these special moulds are provided, into which the ices, having been made as before described, are pressed. After being left embedded in ice for more than an hour, the moulds are dipped in lukewarm water to facilitate turning out, and, having been carefully wiped to free them from salt, the moulds are opened, the ices placed on a suitable dish, and they are then rapidly painted with carefully prepared vegetable colours, as the nature of the case may require. These ornamental ices must have considerable care, but any person with ordinary skill, and able to give time and attention to detail, may manage them.

In colouring ices before freezing with a pink tinge, it is desirable to avoid cochineal, as it is prepared with a strong acid, which, in coming in contact with the pewter, is apt to turn the cream of a violet shade. Breton’s vegetable colourings, to be had at Italian warehouses, are as pure and good as any which can be made at home, and the vegetable carmine is free from the acid of cochineal. In families where ices are in constant request it is desirable to have simple syrup—that is, sugar boiled to the requisite strength—always ready prepared. The most useful quality of syrup is that registering 30°-36° on the saccharometer. The preparation of this is easy, nevertheless it requires care.

Simple Syrup.—Put 2 lb. finest lump sugar into a copper pan with 1 qt. cold water; stir occasionally until the sugar is dissolved; let it come to the boil, and take off any scum as it rises. Draw the pan to the side of the fire, and let the syrup boil gently until it registers 30°-36°. If the sugar is boiled too fast, it will cause trouble to an inexperienced operator, as it will candy. Should this happen, more water must be added to the sugar, and boiling go on again until the syrup attains the requisite strength. If a small quantity of syrup is made, it must be tested by the saccharometer in a deep mug or jug, as in the boiling pan there will not be depth of liquid for the instrument. If no saccharometer is at hand, an approximate idea of the strength of the syrup can be obtained by letting a drop fall into a glass of cold water; if it retains its shape, the syrup will answer your purpose. If fine lump sugar is used, the syrup, when done as directed, will be perfectly bright, with a slight yellow tinge, and as thick as new honey; no other process of clarification will be needed. This syrup is exceedingly useful for many purposes, and will keep for any length of time.

Brown Bread Ice.—(a) Make a custard of eggs and milk, flavoured with vanilla. Cut up some brown bread into dice, dry it in the oven, and put it hot into the cold custard; freeze; pour iced custard round it in the dish in which it is to be served.

(b) To 6 yolks of eggs, well beaten, add gradually 1 pint boiling milk, with ½ lb. sugar boiled in it. Pour this on to some very fine crumbs of brown loaf; beat all together; add ¼ pint cream.

Cake, Iced.—(a) Mix thoroughly ½ lb. flour, ½ lb. ground rice, ½ lb. currants, ¼ lb. sugar, 5 oz. mace and cloves, some mixed peel, a few bitter almonds pounded, some sweet almonds split, 1 teaspoonful carbonate of soda, melt ½ lb. fresh butter in ¾ pint warm milk, add the yolks and whites of 4 eggs beaten separately; pour this by degrees on to the dry ingredients, add a glass of brandy, beat it well; put into a buttered mould, and bake.

(b) Beat up the whites of 2 eggs; then add ½ lb. castor sugar and the juice of a lemon or a few drops of orange-flower water. Beat the mixture until it hangs upon the fork in flakes, then spread over the cake, dipping the knife in cold water occasionally. Stand it before the fire, and keep turning the cake constantly, or the sugar will catch and turn brown. As soon as it begins to harden it may be removed. The icing must not be put on until the cake itself is cold, otherwise it will not set. A few drops of cochineal will colour it if desired.

Cherry Water Ice.—Take out the stones of the cherries, pound them in a mortar in order to get the flavour, and then pass them through a sieve with the fruit. Add syrup, and freeze as strawberry water ice. The flavour of the kernel should come out well in cherry ices, a few drops of home-made extract of almonds (bitter almonds infused in spirit) is therefore an improvement. If the cherries do not give sufficient sharpness, add a little lemon juice.

Chocolate Ice Cream.—Mix 2 teaspoonfuls Van Houten’s cocoa in a gill of cold milk, stir it into 1 pint cream or custard, add vanilla flavour, and sweeten. Scraped and sifted chocolate, so as to bring it to a fine powder, can be used; but the cocoa named is on all accounts best for this cream.

Chocolate Icing.—Put into a saucepan ½ lb. powdered loaf sugar, 2 oz. grated chocolate, and about 1 gill water; stir on the fire until the mixture assumes the consistence of a thick, smooth cream. Lay the icing evenly on the cake or pastry, with a palette knife, and put it into the oven for a minute or two to set the icing.

Coconut Ice.—Put on in a brass or copper pan 4 lb. loaf sugar, with 2 pints of cold water, stir till it comes to the boil, by which time the sugar should be quite dissolved, let it boil to candy light, and draw it to the side. Have a large coconut pared and grated, mix together with the milk, add ¾ of it to the sugar, and stir till it begins to candy. Have a sheet of paper greased and laid upon a stone slab; on it place 4 iron rods so as to form a square, into which pour the tablet. Repeat the above process with 2 lb. sugar and 1 pint cold water, adding a little cochineal to colour it, and the remainder of the grated coconut; when ready, pour it over the first sheet of tablet, which will be set by the time you have done the second; when quite cold, turn it over, draw off the paper, and cut it in stripes 3-4 in. long.

Coffee Ice Cream.—Make a custard, without any flavour, of 1 pint cream and 4 yolks of eggs. Put into this ¼ lb. freshly-roasted mocha coffee berries; they should, if possible, be used hot. Cover up the stewpan closely with its lid, putting a napkin over to keep in the steam. Let the custard stand for an hour, strain and sweeten, and when cold put it into the freezing pot. Cream thus prepared will not take the colour of the coffee, and when carefully made is very delicate and delicious. Coffee ice cream is also made with a strong infusion of coffee, or Branson’s extract of coffee can be used. To make the infusion, put 2 oz. ground coffee into a French cafetière, and pour over it 1 gill fast-boiling water. When the infusion has all run through boil it up, and pour it over 2 oz. more coffee. Put the infusion thus obtained to 1 pint sweetened cream or custard and freeze.

Ginger Ice Cream.—Make a custard of 1 pint cream and 4 eggs put to it. Cut up in small pieces 2 oz. preserved ginger, add sufficient ground ginger to flavour well, and syrup or sugar to taste. Stir occasionally until cold, and put it into the freezing pot. Care should be taken to use fresh and good ground ginger, as otherwise it is apt to impart a mouldy kind of flavour.

Lemon Water Ice.—Wash the lemons in cold water in order to ensure cleanliness. Take a few lumps of sugar, and rub them over the peel until you have enough to flavour the ices; probably 2 fine lemons will be sufficient. Put this lemon sugar into 1 qt. cold filtered water, and let it stand 10 minutes, or while the lemons are squeezed. About ½ pint juice is usually needed, with sufficient syrup to register 24° by the saccharometer. Having strained the juice and water flavoured with the lemon sugar, add the syrup, and strain into the freezing pot. When the ices register 22° F., press well down in the pot, and leave them in the freezing mixture for an hour. A little Nelson’s gelatine is useful to give richness and body to water ices; but care must be taken not to use more than the quantity named. Soak and dissolve in boiling water ¼ oz. Nelson’s gelatine, add it to the quart of water to be used for the ices, thoroughly mix it with the other materials, and afterwards strain them.

Pineapple Ice Cream.—Press the juice from a fine ripe pineapple, add that of a lemon, with syrup or pounded sugar to give the required sweetness. Mix with an equal quantity of rich cream, and strain into the freezing pot. Or, make a custard as follows: boil 1 pint milk, pour it whilst boiling on the yolks of 6 eggs; stir rapidly over the fire until it thickens, taking care not to curdle it. With a little experience a perfect custard may be thickened in this way in less than 7 minutes, a much longer time being required if the milk is not boiled. When cold, add pineapple pulp made as follows: Boil 1 lb. pineapple sliced and peeled, in 1 gill water for 10 minutes, pound the fruit and rub it through a sieve, add syrup or sugar to taste. When cold mix with the custard, and strain into the freezing pot. Lemon juice can be added if necessary.

Strawberry Ice Cream.—Pick and press through a coarse sieve fine ripe strawberries to make as much juice as you require, then strain through a coarse sieve, and mix with it fine powdered sugar in the proportion of ¼ lb. to each ½ pint of juice. Stir into each ½ pint of the sweetened juice 1½ pint rich cream, and a few drops of pink colouring. Mix all well together and strain into the freezing pot. As the flavour of strawberries varies in different seasons, and they are more acid at one time than another, some judgment in the use of sugar is necessary, and sufficient of it should always be used to bring out the flavour of the fruit. Sometimes it will happen, after freezing has begun, that a little more sweetness is desirable. This is best given by adding a little plain syrup, taking care to mix it well in; for the perfection of ices depends in a great measure on all the materials being well incorporated. For this reason the direction is given to strain into the freezing pot after all is stirred together.

The product from 2 qt. cream, made as above, should be 3-3½ qt. firm ice cream of the highest quality. It is probable, however, that by some machines and the ordinary ice pail so good a result would not be obtained. The horizontal freezer will yield the given quality.

When the fresh fruit juice cannot be procured, preserved juice or preserved strawberries must be substituted. Of these the first is the best; but when there is not a fairly suitable apparatus, or other conditions are unfavourable for its domestic manufacture, it will be best to purchase it. In this case it should be borne in mind that a preparation of the fresh juice is necessarily somewhat expensive, and that a cheap article is generally flavoured with some unwholesome chemical imitation of the true flavour.

Vanilla Ice Cream.—This favourite ice is easily made. It is needlessly expensive to use the vanilla pod itself. To flavour 1 pint custard a whole pod would have to be boiled in the milk. But, as the bright essence is often wanting in delicacy, and is not unfrequently merely an imitation of vanilla made from deleterious material, it is desirable to have a home-made extract. To make it, cut the pods into very small pieces, put them into a small bottle with 1 tablespoonful brandy to each pod; let them stand for a week or longer, shaking occasionally. Drain the extract into another bottle, and keep well corked. The flavour of the vanilla pod itself will not have been exhausted by taking the extract, and, if boiled in milk, will flavour puddings, creams, custards, &c. Vanilla sugar is made by putting the pods into a closed jar of fine sifted sugar, and allowing them to remain in it for a week or longer. Afterwards the extract can be made. There is a great difference in the quality of vanilla, and when it is deficient in flavour, it has without doubt been deprived of aroma by some such process as that of making vanilla sugar. Vanilla ices require a good custard, made of cream with 4 eggs to the pint, and to be well sweetened. Vanilla extract must be used with reference to its strength, and the flavour of it should be kept delicate. Should it be preferred to use the pod itself for flavouring, it is usual to strain the milk or cream in which it has been boiled in a strainer, coarse enough to allow the seeds to pass through, and thus a distinctive character is given to the ices. Water ices are occasionally flavoured with vanilla, but are not to be recommended. For invalids and delicate persons vanilla is useful, as it is a safe and light stimulant.

Cheese

Cheese (Fromage).—The cookery of cheese is a much-neglected subject in this country, though deserving of study.

Baked (Fondu).—(a) Take ¼ lb. grated cheese, add it to 1 gill milk in which is dissolved as much powdered bicarbonate of potash as will stand upon a threepenny-piece; mustard, pepper, &c. Heat this carefully until the cheese is completely dissolved. Then beat up 3 eggs, yolk and whites together, and add them to this solution of cheese, stirring the whole. Now take a shallow metal or earthenware dish or tray that will bear heating; put a little butter on this and heat the butter till it frizzles. Then pour the mixture into this, and bake or fry it until it is nearly solidified. A cheaper dish may be made by increasing the proportion of cheese—say 6-8 oz. to 3 eggs, or only 1 egg to ¼ lb. cheese for a hard-working man with powerful digestion. The chief difficulty in preparing this dish conveniently is that of obtaining suitable vessels for the final frying or baking, as each portion should be poured into and fried or baked in a separate dish, so that each person may, as in Switzerland, have his own fondu complete, and eat it from the dish as it comes from the fire. (Prof. W. M. Williams.)

(b) Melt ½ oz. fresh butter in a saucepan, stir into it 1 tablespoonful flour; when the two are well amalgamated put in a small quantity of milk and about 3 oz. grated Parmesan cheese. Stir the mixture on a slow fire till it assumes the appearance of thick cream, but be careful not to let it boil, then add 1 clove of garlic, a small quantity of flour of mustard, a dash of powdered nutmeg, and some white pepper; mix thoroughly, and, if required, add a little salt; keep on stirring the mixture at a very moderate heat for about 10 minutes, then remove the pod of garlic, take the saucepan off the fire, and stir the contents occasionally until quite cold, when you stir into them the yolks of 3 eggs, beaten up with a little milk and strained, and finally the whites of 5 eggs whisked into a stiff froth. Pour the mixture into a deep, round tin, put it into the oven, which must not be too hot; in about 20-30 minutes the fondu will have risen and taken colour. Pin a napkin round the tin, and serve quickly.

Biscuits (Galettes).—(a) Take 4 oz. grated cheese, 3 oz. finely grated breadcrumbs, 2 oz. butter, 1 teaspoonful flour of mustard, 1 saltspoonful cayenne, 1 of white pepper, and 2 beaten-up eggs; melt the butter and mix all the ingredients together, and let them stand an hour. Knead and work out the paste as thin as possible, and cut into triangles or roll it up into thin sticks about 3 in. long. Bake in a quick oven for 16-18 minutes; serve hot.

(b) Have a little puff or short paste ready, and sprinkle over it a little cayenne, and as much grated Parmesan cheese as the dough will take; double up the paste, roll it out rather thin, and cut it with a round paste cutter, glaze with an egg, arrange on a floured tin, and bake in a sharp oven till of a light yellow colour.

Boiled.—(a) Put 1 tablespoonful milk in a saucepan, with a bit of butter the size of a nutmeg, and ¼ lb. good cheese, grated fine. Put the whole on a slow fire until it boils, then add 1 egg well beaten. Stir all well together, turn it into your dish, and brown it. Serve very hot.

(b) Put 4 oz. good cheese, sliced as thin as possible, 2 tablespoonfuls cream, a piece of butter the size of 2 walnuts, into a saucepan and boil, stirring it gently all the time till it becomes thick and smooth, then add a raw egg and a little cayenne pepper. Put the saucepan again on the fire, stirring as before till the whole is quite hot. Serve on small squares of dry toast. The above is enough for four people.

Boulettes.—Take equal weights of eggs, breadcrumbs, butter, and grated cheese; these must be well beaten together, leaving out half the whites of the eggs; season them with salt and a little cayenne pepper, and make them up into little balls; these must be dipped in egg and breadcrumbs, and fried a light brown in lard or well-clarified dripping. The fat must not quite boil before the balls are put in, or they will become too dark a colour before they are sufficiently cooked; they should be served up high in a dish on a napkin.

Canapés.—Cut some stale bread in thin slices, which must be stamped out into shapes with a cutter. Fry these lightly in butter or boiling lard; cover the top of each with Parmesan or Cheshire cheese, add a little pepper and salt and mustard, and put them before the fire till the cheese is dissolved. Serve hot on a napkin.

Custard.—(a) Butter a rather small flat dish (one that will stand the oven—an old strong one would be best), whisk 2 eggs a minute or two, and mix with them ¼ pint cream, or cream and milk mixed; now grate 2-3 oz. dry pieces of any kind of cheese, to these add a little salt and a few grains of cayenne pepper, mix all well together, pour into the buttered dish, and bake in a rather sharp oven 10-15 minutes; when done, set the dish over another, a size larger, and send to table immediately. The custard should be firm, and brown and light in the time stated.

(b) A breakfastcupful of sliced cheese, the same quantity of milk, and 2 eggs; butter a pie-dish, put in the cheese, pour the milk over, and then stir in the beaten-up eggs; bake for ½ hour; if a smaller quantity is required, put a teacupful of cheese and milk and 1 egg.

(c) Cut the cheese into shreds, or grate it, or chop it up fine like suet. To every lb. cheese thus treated add ¼ oz. potash bicarbonate. Put the mixture of cheese and bicarbonate into a saucepan with either 3 times its bulk of cold water or 4 times its bulk of cold milk, and mix well. Put the saucepan on the fire and bring the mixture slowly to the boiling point, taking care to stir it all the time. Having got it to boil, keep it hot until the cheese is melted, which does not take long. Turn it out into a dish, and the result gives a beautiful nutritious mixture which thickens like a custard in cooling. This custard may be eaten with impunity even by those persons who would be ill after eating a piece of cheese the size of a nut, and is peculiarly adapted as food for all persons who work hard with either brain or muscle. Fancy dishes may be made in the following manner, e.g., take the mixture of cheese and bicarbonate and water (or milk) given above, and add to it 2 eggs, white and yolk beaten up together, for every ¼ lb. of cheese in the mixture. Put into a dish or a series of little dishes (previously buttered), and bake till brown. This must be eaten with bread or biscuit. Another way is to make the mixture a little thinner by adding a little more milk or water, and to put it in a pie-dish with slices of bread laid one over the other. The custard should be poured in cold, and left for an hour to soak before it is baked. This dish is a great improvement on the ordinary bread and butter pudding.

Cream.—Take 2 tablespoonfuls raw cream, rather less than 2 tablespoonfuls grated Parmesan cheese, a very little cayenne pepper, and salt to taste. Mix these ingredients carefully together and quite smoothly, then spread it on some good puff paste, lay another piece of puff paste over it, then press round carefully with the fingers, cut out with fancy cutters into any shapes you may select, egg and breadcrumb the shapes, and fry in boiling lard or butter.

Fritters (Beignets).—Put about 1 pint water into a saucepan with a piece of butter the size of an egg, the least bit of cayenne, and plenty of black pepper. When the water boils throw gradually into it sufficient flour to form a thick paste; then take it off the fire and work into it about ¼ lb. ground Parmesan cheese, and then the yolks of 3 or 4 eggs and the whites of 2 beaten up to a froth. Let the paste rest for 2 hours, and proceed to fry by dropping pieces of it the size of a walnut into plenty of hot lard. Serve sprinkled with very fine salt.

Meringues.—2 oz. Parmesan cheese, 1 oz. Gloucester or any other kind of good cheese that is dry (the piece that has become too mean-looking to go to table in its present state will do admirably for this purpose, also for many other dishes), the whites of 2 eggs, pepper and salt, lard to fry. Grate the cheese on a coarse grater, and beat the eggs on a plate, with the blade of a broad knife, to a firm froth, add to this the cheese and a little salt and pepper, make into balls the size of a walnut, throw them into plenty of boiling lard, and fry 2-3 minutes, when they will be a delicate brown and double their former size; drain on a piece of kitchen paper. Put a clean napkin into a dish, arrange the meringues on it, and send to table as quickly as possible. There should be a little fresh parsley between the meringues; it improves the appearance.

Potato.—Take 6 medium-sized potatoes, as nearly as possible equal in shape; wash them quite clean, dry them, and on that side of them which will more readily stand uppermost make an incision ¼ in. deep with a patty cutter as large as the size of each potato will allow; then put the potatoes in the oven to bake. When quite done, remove the covers (marked out with the patty cutter), and with a teaspoon empty each potato as thoroughly as is possible without breaking the skin; pass through a sieve what is taken out of the potatoes. Take 4 tablespoonfuls of the potato snow thus obtained, 1½ tablespoonfuls grated Parmesan cheese, and mix the two thoroughly with ½ gill milk and the yolks of 2 eggs, pepper and salt to taste, and the least bit of cayenne or grated nutmeg, or both. Beat up the whites of 3 eggs to a stiff froth, mix the whole well together, fill quickly the potato skins with the mixture flush with the top, and bake them long enough for the mixture to rise and take a golden-brown colour; about 20 minutes.

Potted.—(a) Cut ½ lb. good, sound, mellow Stilton cheese in slices, with 2 oz. fresh butter. The cheese must not be either green or very ripe. Add a small quantity of mace and some made mustard. Pound all together in a mortar until a thick, smooth paste, and the ingredients well amalgamated. Then press it down in a jar or glass, and run some oiled butter over the top.

(b) Beat 3 lb. Cheshire cheese in a mortar with ½ lb. butter, a large glass of sherry, a little mace, cayenne pepper, and salt. Mix all thoroughly together, put into pots, and pour a little clarified butter over the top.

Pudding.—(a) Take 4 tablespoonfuls finely grated breadcrumbs, the same quantity of grated cheese, and 2 eggs, mustard, pepper, and salt to taste. Butter a pie-dish, then put in the breadcrumbs, cheese, mustard, &c.; beat up the 2 yolks with a small cup of milk, and put into the pie-dish; beat the whites into a froth, and put them in with a good-sized lump of butter. Place the dish in a quick oven for 20 minutes, and serve very hot. Enough for 4 or 5 persons.

(b) Melt ½ oz. fresh butter in a saucepan, stir into it 1 tablespoonful flour; when the two are well amalgamated, put in a small quantity of milk and about 3 oz. grated Parmesan cheese. Stir the mixture on a slow fire till it assumes the appearance of thick cream, but be careful not to let it boil; then add some white pepper; mix thoroughly, and, if required, add a little salt; keep on stirring the mixture at a very moderate heat for about 10 minutes; take the saucepan off the fire, and stir the contents occasionally until quite cold, then stir into them the yolks of 3 eggs beaten up with a little milk and strained, and finally the whites of 5 eggs whisked into a stiff froth. Put the mixture into a pudding dish, and put it into the oven at once. Serve quickly as soon as the pudding has risen, and the top is well browned.

(c) Mix 2 eggs with 5 oz. cheese and ½ pint boiling milk; put into a pie-dish, and bake ¼ hour: to be turned out and sent to table on a napkin.

(d) Soak in fresh milk a breakfastcupful of stale breadcrumbs; add to it 2 well-beaten eggs, 1 oz. butter, and 6 oz. grated cheese; mix well, strew breadcrumbs over the top, and bake a light brown. (Bessie Tremaine.)

(e) ¼ lb. cheese chopped very fine, 1 egg well beaten, teacupful of new milk or cream, a small piece of butter dissolved in it, cayenne pepper and salt; bake for 20 minutes.

(f) Take 6 oz. grated cheese, 2 eggs, 1 oz. butter, a small teacupful of milk, and beat up all together in a basin; then put them in a small baking dish and bake a light brown.

Puffs (Talmouses).—Put into a stewpan 3 oz. butter with 1½ gill milk, stir them together over the fire with a wooden spoon. Directly it boils gradually add 3 oz. flour, and continue stirring until it separates from the sides of the pan, forming a ball of paste, then add by degrees 6 beaten eggs, ½ lb. Parmesan cheese, and ¼ lb. Gruyère, or the whole quantity may be Parmesan if more convenient. Season well with salt, pepper, and a very little cayenne. When thoroughly mixed, make the paste up into little balls no larger than a pigeon’s egg, and fry them in hot lard; it must not be boiling, or they will be too dark a colour; they take a very short time to fry, and should be a light golden brown. Let them drain on paper for a minute or two before the fire, and serve in pyramid on a folded napkin garnished with parsley. Half this quantity would be enough for a small dish. Another way: Equal weight of eggs, butter, fresh breadcrumbs, and grated cheese; mix the dry ingredients together, seasoning rather highly with pepper and salt and a little cayenne. Put them into a mortar with the butter, the yolks of all and the whites of half the number of eggs, and pound them together until thoroughly mixed. Make up into small balls, egg and breadcrumb them, and fry in hot, but not boiling, lard as before. To be similarly drained and served. Two eggs and their weight of other ingredients make a small dish.

Ramakins.—(a) 2 eggs, 2 spoonfuls flour, 2 oz. melted butter, 2 oz. grated cheese. Mix all well together, and bake for ¼ hour.

(b) 3 oz. toasting cheese, 4 oz. good Cheshire cheese, 2 oz. butter, and the yolks of 3 eggs; pound altogether very fine in a mortar; boil a fresh roll in thin cream, or good milk, only give it one boil up, then mix the whites of the eggs with the roll, and all the other ingredients in a basin, and beat it very well with a fork; then put it into paper cases, or one large one, and bake in a Dutch oven. The mixture will be good if made overnight, which is sometimes a convenience. (F. R. A.)

(c) ¼ lb. Cheshire cheese, ¼ lb. Parmesan, ¼ lb. fresh butter, 4 eggs, the crumb of a small roll, pepper, salt, and mace to taste. Boil the crumb of the roll in milk for 5 minutes, strain, and put into a mortar; add the cheese, which should be finely scraped, the butter, the yolks of the eggs, and seasoning, and pound these ingredients well together. Whisk the whites of the eggs, mix them with the paste, and put it into small saucers, half filled. Bake 10-12 minutes. (W. C. D.)

Roasted.—Grate 3 oz. fat Cheshire cheese, mix with it the yolks of 2 eggs, 4 oz. grated bread, and 3 oz. butter; beat the whole well in a mortar, with 1 dessertspoonful mustard, and a little salt and pepper. Toast some bread, cut it into proper pieces, lay the paste as above thick upon them; put them into a Dutch oven, covered with a dish, till hot through, remove the dish, and let the cheese brown a little; serve as hot as possible.

Sandwiches.—(a) Take 2 oz. grated cheese, 2 oz. pounded ham, 1 teaspoonful mixed mustard, a very small quantity of cayenne pepper and salt; mix all together with the beaten-up yolk of an egg. Spread the mixture between thin slices of bread, and fry in boiling lard or butter.

(b) Cut some slices of bread a day old, ⅛ in. thick, and some very thin slices of Gruyère cheese. Pick the leaves of a quantity of watercress, and mince them as fine as you can, then dry them in a cloth, mince them still more, and dry them again; then knead them with as much fresh butter as they will take up, adding a very little salt and white pepper; butter the slices of bread with this mixture, put the slices of Gruyère between 2 slices of bread, press them lightly, cut out the sandwiches into the shape of Savoy biscuits, and serve immediately.

Scallop.—Soak a small teacupful of stale breadcrumbs in fresh milk; beat into this one large egg, a teaspoonful of melted butter, and 3 oz. grated cheese, pepper and salt to taste. Strew sifted crumbs over the top, and bake till it is of a delicate brown.