XI

A TYPICAL SHANGHAI WEDDING

IT was the day before the wedding. Downstairs in the home of the fiancé all was bustle and excitement. The marriage dowry, that for weeks had been collecting, was being made ready to carry over to the house of the groom’s father. Articles large and small, useful, and ornamental were scattered everywhere.

First, and most important of all, there was the trousseau. Each suit consisted of three pieces—trousers, skirt, and jacket—made of the same material. They were carefully folded and piled one on top of another in the regulation bridal trunks, which are moderate sized wooden boxes covered with glossy red or brown oilcloth. Though the family was greatly rushed, still as relatives and friends dropped in to watch the proceedings and offer congratulations, the more elaborate costumes were taken out with ill-concealed pride and held up for inspection. And they were worth seeing! Silks, brocaded satins, crêpes, gauzes, ranging in colour from the palest hues of pink, green, blue, and violet, down to rich crimson, dark grey, brown, and even black, lay together in bewildering profusion. Some were delicate as sea-foam, others handsome but quiet, while the splendidly embroidered ones might well have rejoiced the heart of a princess. The jewels were arranged to show off to the best advantage in numerous small glass-covered cases. They presented a dazzling array—bracelets, rings, buckles, necklaces, hair ornaments. Diamonds, rubies, pearls, sapphires, shone resplendent, but jade was the principal stone.

The bride’s wardrobe, however, though of absorbing interest, was only one portion of her dowry. The rest of the outfit blocked the way in every direction. The usual sets of graded wooden tubs, pails, and chests with conspicuous brass locks occupied the entire side of one room. These were painted either a rich red or brown and highly polished. On the other side of the room the most conspicuous object was a couch or divan weighed down under a huge pile of quilts. No Chinese girl goes to her husband’s home without a collection of bed-coverings. Though differing greatly in number and elegance, always they are of bright colours and folded lengthwise with exquisite neatness. In this case most of the quilts were of the costliest materials, flowered silks, figured satins, with a few gay prints and soft cashmeres for summer use.

In an adjoining apartment was a set of bedroom furniture in carved teakwood, wardrobe, table, chairs, and washstand. The ornate brass bed was of foreign make. The silk curtains and silver ornaments with which it was later to be hung, were temporarily reposing in one of the many chests. Embossed silver teasets of Chinese pattern, silver and ivory chopsticks, foreign glass finger bowls, gaudy native silver wine cups, bonbon dishes, jewelry cases, hand-painted scrolls, silk banners, later to be converted into gowns for the bride, these were but a few of the riches lavished on the girl sitting apart in an upper chamber, shy, half afraid, wholly expectant.

The list of attractions on this great occasion would be incomplete were mention not made of the trays of edibles, fruits, fancy cakes, and confections of marvellous variety, intended as a gift from the bride’s parents to the family of the groom. On the evening of the wedding day the groom’s parents will return the compliment by sending to the bride’s home a sumptuous repast consisting of cakes, fruit, cooked fowls, fish, and one, possibly three or four, roasted pigs. After roasting the pig is coated over with sesame oil, which hardens when exposed to the air and imparts an appetizing gloss to the skin. The animal is carried through the streets by coolies in a red tray suspended from poles, to the admiration of all onlookers and the despair of the hungry. On arriving at its destination, the upper part of the head, and the tail, with a thin slice of meat attached to it, are cut away and returned to the donors. This is done to insure the uninterrupted bliss of the young couple, since the head and tail of the pig represent the beginning and end of happiness in the lives of the newly wed.

It was no light contract to get such a generous marriage dowry conveyed safely from one home to the other. Early in the morning preparations began, yet by three in the afternoon the procession had not started. People were flying to and fro. Coolie bearers with long bamboo poles stood around in every one’s way, talking in loud shrill tones. In a side room sat a scholarly mandarin writing Chinese characters on slips of red paper. These were pasted vertically across each chest beside the lock and served the double purpose of announcing the name of the bride and adding to the safety of the contents of the chest in transit, since it could not be opened without tearing the paper. The quilts were fastened securely to the couch on which they lay by an ornamental network of red cord. Smaller articles, placed on box-shaped trays, were in like manner made secure from pilfering fingers. Red paper cards, red ribbon and flowers figured prominently as decorations. As one by one the pieces were made ready they were taken to the street and fastened by ropes to the coolies’ carrying poles. When the long procession was complete and awaiting the order to start, a gayer scene could scarcely be imagined. The bride’s entire dowry, excepting her trousseau, was in full view of curious eyes, that all spectators along the route might be duly impressed with the family wealth. Leading off were two closed carriages (a short time ago they would have been sedan chairs), in each of which sat in state two gentlemen “go-betweens,” whose particular mission at this time was to convey the cases containing the jewels to the home of the groom. But alas for human pride and ambition! Just at the critical moment, when the coachman had whipped the horses into action, the coolies raised the poles to their shoulders, and a tremor undulated down the whole line—a few drops of rain fell. Then such a scurrying of feet ensued as servants rushed into the house for pieces of oiled cloth to protect perishable treasures! So it was with eclipsed glory that the parade eventually started on its way, to the vast disappointment of all concerned.

On the day of the wedding the centre of interest was transferred from the bride’s home to that of the groom. He lived in a three-story mansion, becoming the rank of his father, who was a high official holding a responsible government position. At the gate of the compound, or grounds, were stationed several Chinese policemen whose chief business was to keep the motley crowd outside from encroaching on the premises. But either they were unequal to their task, or what is more likely, condoned the intrusion of the ragamuffins, for more and more of the nondescript element drifted past the sentinels, till the yard in front was well filled. The arched gateway and main entrance to the dwelling were decorated with flowers and greens, while along the wide veranda was suspended a row of mammoth lanterns, gorgeous with crimson silk trimmings and tassels. At one end of the veranda hung strings of firecrackers, yards and yards in length, lending an added splash of colour to the picture. The house was built around the four sides of a glass-covered court, with galleries on the second and third stories from which the rooms opened. Two bands were stationed in the court, one Chinese and the other Filipino, the latter a contingent from the Municipal Band of the International Settlement. The contrast between them was ludicrous. The Filipinos in fresh uniforms with shining instruments sat erect before their leader and played with spirit. The ten or a dozen Chinese were of all ages, their rags showing beneath faded red jackets and in their hands a collection of indescribable instruments on which from time to time they blew, pounded and pulled, to the evident enjoyment of all the guests but the few suffering foreigners present. Beyond the court was the reception hall. As it was entirely open in front, its magnificence caught and held the gaze immediately on entering the front door. The walls were ablaze with crimson satin banners, while crimson satin covered the chairs and tables, every piece of it, like the banners, elegantly embroidered. Wedding decorations are rented for the occasion as it would cost a small fortune to buy them. The ground floor was mainly given up to the men, who sat around in the ante-rooms, in social groups, sipping tea and wine, and smoking.

Upstairs the women of the family held court. As guests arrived they were conducted at once to the bridal chamber, a large bright room, decked out with the furniture and bric-a-brac sent over the day before from the bride’s home. The bed was the most striking object, for the white silken curtains were carefully hung, though almost hidden under a glittering assortment of quaint and rare ornaments in wrought silver, nearly all of them possessing some symbolical meaning. The carved teakwood table covered with a heavy white satin spread embroidered in peach blossoms, stood in the centre of the room. So many gifts had been sent by friends to swell the marriage dowry, that the bridal chamber and room back of it could scarcely contain them all. Frequently next to an exquisite bit of ivory or jade would repose a cheap glass vase or china matchbox that looked as if it might have come from a ten-cent store in America. In an adjoining apartment stood a table set in foreign style. The table-cloth was a strip of coarse cotton sheeting, and on it were placed fancy china dishes heaped with all manner of cakes, fruit, and confections. Even such accessories as knives and forks, and tiny napkins embroidered around the edge in deep blue were not lacking. In the centre was a spreading floral piece of remarkable design. To beguile the time while waiting for the coming of the bride, guests were invited to partake of the refreshments, which they did freely.

The hours passed slowly by. One o’clock had been named in the invitations as the time of the wedding, but three struck and no bride. Four o’clock rolled around and still no signs of her. Indeed, not a Chinese guest expected her, for had the bride made her appearance promptly, she would have been committing a shocking and unpardonable breach of etiquette. Several times, according to custom, the bridegroom had sent his messengers to bring her, but without avail. The bridegroom must go himself. At last, late in the afternoon, the word passed around, amid a wild flurry of excitement, that he was about to set out. He left in a closed carriage drawn by a span of horses with coachman and footman. His two little sisters, flower-girls, in white foreign dresses, pink sashes and hair ribbons, followed in another carriage. The foreign band went too, on foot, while the Chinese musicians exerted themselves with commendable energy to keep up the flagging spirits of the waiting guests.

The minutes dragged heavily till an hour had gone by. During the interval there were occasional breaks in the monotony. Coolies hurried in with belated wedding gifts, women servants of the bride arrived bearing additional jewel cases, and finally three men walked in, importantly. Two wore Chinese dress, the third one foreign clothes of the best modern cut. It was whispered around that he had come all the way from Peking to act as chief functionary at the ceremony. Presently the bridegroom’s carriage rolled into the compound. The excitement then rose to a tremendous pitch and every one who was not already crowding forward rushed to the entrance and the front verandas. Soon the glad shout arose on every side: “The bride is coming! The bride is coming!” First in through the gateway marched the Filipinos playing a stirring air. Close behind was the carriage of the flower girls, and then came the bride, riding alone. Her carriage on top had the appearance of a flower garden with its elaborate rainbow-coloured trimmings. The horses’ harness too was gaily decorated. But the poor animals were badly frightened when a match was set to the firecrackers and boom after boom rent the air. They reared and pranced, and though a footman held tightly to each bridle, it seemed for a moment or two as if the carriage with its precious burden would not succeed in getting safely inside the gate. By this time the policemen had abandoned all effort to control the street mob, and they poured into the compound, a gaping throng, in strange contrast to their brilliant surroundings.

The little flower girls, carrying beautiful floral baskets, had tripped lightly to the ground, when an intimate woman friend of the bride’s family stepped forward to open the coach door for the bride. Not a glimpse had been had of her, for the blinds were closely drawn. Very slowly she dismounted as custom required, but had the poor child wished ever so much to hurry, she would have been too seriously hampered by her attire to do so. Delicate satin slippers encased her small though unbound feet. Her gown was of old rose satin, stiff with embroidery. Over her little shapely hands were drawn loose-fitting cotton gloves. Necklaces without number, of extraordinary design, nearly hid the waist of her dress in front, while quantities of gold and jade bracelets encircled her slender wrists. But the most amazing creation of all was the bride’s headgear. It was the time-honoured helmet, worn for centuries back in these parts by Chinese brides, but seldom seen nowadays in Shanghai. Studded with brilliants and coloured glass, and encircled with strings of bangles that fell around and almost concealed the girl’s face, the weight must have been enough to bow down, without any effort to appear modest, the head that had to sustain it. But, O, ye shades of a stereotyped past, what is this grand climax to the bride’s dress which now rivets the attention of the astonished beholder! Can it be? yes, it certainly is—a modern wedding veil of white net, gathered above the helmet in a tuft-like bunch and falling around the bride to her feet in billowy folds! The towering crown wavered uncertainly, as, guided by her chaperon, the girl moved deliberately toward the house.

Just inside the door she was joined by the groom in a well fitting Tuxedo, but looking about as ill at ease as a man can. Keeping a good elbow’s distance apart, the bridal couple, followed, not preceded, by the flower girls and after them the groom’s relatives, walked across the court and on into the reception hall, where a girl was vigorously pounding out Mendelssohn’s Wedding March on a clanging piano. They stopped a few feet in front of an oblong table behind which stood the three men who had preceded the groom to the house. The bride and groom bowed low to each of the three dignitaries, beginning with the one in the centre, who was the little man in foreign clothes. This gentleman picked up a document written over with Chinese characters, and holding it in his two hands, read from it in a loud voice. After that he handed a ring to the groom, who placed it on the third finger of the left hand of the bride, over her cotton glove. This act was accompanied by formal bows from one party to the other. The bride then received a ring from her chaperon and timidly slipped it on the left hand little finger of the groom. More bowing ensued. At this juncture some little girls came forward, and facing the bride and groom, sang very sweetly, in English, “Jesus Bids us Shine,” a feature of the ceremony introduced by a Chinese Christian friend with the consent of the non-Christian families. At the conclusion of this number, bowing became the order of the programme. It took the place of the friendly congratulations offered to bridal couples in the West The bride and groom first saluted each other, then the gentlemen who officiated, afterward the parents of the groom, kneeling before them with their heads to the floor, in token of filial respect, and lastly the brothers, sisters, uncles, aunts, cousins, and friends generally. Each group was saluted three times, and bowed three times in return. Those older and higher in rank stood above the couple, but in the case of children the order was reversed. The last to be greeted was an aunt of the bride, the only member of her household that custom allowed to be present. This ceremony was very formal and occupied considerable time. While it lasted the chaperon was kept busy, since it was her duty to turn the bride around, and push her head forward at the proper time to bow.

When all was at last over, strains from Mendelssohn were again struck up, the bride attempted to slip her hand in her husband’s arm, which in his embarrassment he allowed to hang limply by his side, and surrounded by a chattering, pushing crowd, the bridal pair ascended the uncarpeted stairs, soiled with the dust from many feet, and found their way to the bridal chamber. As the newly married always do, they sat for several minutes together on the edge of the bed, then the bridegroom made his escape to the rooms below, where, constraint cast aside, he entered heartily into the enjoyment of the hour. But no such good fortune awaited the bride. Her ordeal had just begun. She rose to her feet while her girl friends pressed close about her for the usual bantering. “Aren’t you stupid!” “What a hideous gown!” “How ridiculously you behave!” “Whoever saw such an ugly bride!” During this tirade not a muscle of the bride’s face quivered, and the lowered eyes were never once raised. But perspiration stood in beads on her forehead and the soft round cheeks were flushed and feverish, for the thoughtless, teasing crowd shut out the air, and besides, not a morsel of food or a drop of liquid had passed her lips that day.

Seven o’clock brought a respite, for at that hour the wedding feast was declared ready, and the bride escorted by her chaperon returned to the reception hall where the tables were spread. One table was reserved especially for her, and there she was placed in solitary state facing the entire roomful of guests. Not so the groom, who occupied a side table in the midst of a group of friends. The bride’s wedding veil had been removed, but the helmet remained, having assumed meanwhile a somewhat tipsy air, as if the head underneath was too weary to hold it steady or in the merry-making it had been jarred out of its equilibrium. But no hand offered to adjust it, and least of all could the girl herself do so. She sat immovable, her eyes downcast, her face as impassive as a Buddha’s. Dish after dish of tempting Chinese food was put before her, to be taken away untouched. While others all over the room were eating and chattering happily, she continued mute and alone. A break came when the wine was served. Lifting one of the little silver wine cups in both hands the groom passed it to the chief guest, who received it in his two hands, and after taking a sip returned the cup to the groom. He presented it likewise to each of the principal guests, and last of all to his bride amid an outburst of merriment from the interested spectators. It was then the bride’s turn. Whatever may have been her inner feelings, she betrayed no sign of emotion as she stepped calmly from one to another with the cup and ended by placing it in the hands of the groom, while the guests cheered and laughed uproariously.

With this ceremony the feast broke up but not the wedding festivities. They continued unabated till early morning. During the evening, four of the bride’s brothers came in, but they did not seek her out. The men, including the groom, stayed below to carouse and gamble. Upstairs the young friends of the bride gathered around her once more and prepared for a wild frolic. First, according to custom, they demanded a gift, whereupon one of her woman servants distributed boxes of Chinese confections among them, prepared for this purpose. After that she was put through a series of ridiculous performances for the amusement of her persecutors, such as crawling, hopping, skipping, crowing. When at last dawn streaked the sky and the house lights went out with the departing guests, is it a wonder that the exhausted little bride of eighteen sank down on the nearest couch and cried herself to sleep?