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A guide to modern cookery

Part 2 — CHAPTER XX Entremets (Sweets) (continued 3)

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Thoroughly cool these strawberries before serving them.

2684—FRAISES CARDINAL

Set some fine, cooled strawberries in a timbale; coat them with Melba sauce, or a purée of fresh raspberries, and sprinkle the latter with splintered fresh almonds.

2685—FRAISES ZELMA KUNTZ

Set some fine, cooled strawberries in a timbale. Cover them with a raspberry purée, combined with an equal quantity of Chantilly cream.

Decorate, by means of the piping-bag, with Chantilly cream, and sprinkle with a powdered pralin of filberts.

Gooseberries (Groseilles vertes).

2686—GOOSEBERRY FOOL

Poach one pound of green gooseberries in some thin syrup. When they are cooked, thoroughly drain them; rub them through a sieve, and collect the purée in a flat saucepan.

Work this purée on ice, and add the necessary amount of icing sugar to it.

The amount of the icing sugar varies according to the acidity of the fruit and the sweetness of the poaching-syrup.

Combine with the purée an equal quantity of very stiffly whipped cream; set the preparation in the shape of a dome in a timbale: decorate its surface, by means of a piping-bag, with Chantilly cream, and serve very cold.

Tangerines (Mandarines).

2687—MANDARINES ALMINA

Cut a slice of the rind from the stem-end of the tangerines by means of a round, even cutter, one inch in diameter. Then empty them, and fill the rinds with a preparation of Bavarois with violets, combined with crumbled lady’s-finger biscuits, sprinkled with Maraschino. Close the tangerines with the slice cut off at the start; let them set in a cool place, and, at the last moment, lay them on a dish covered with a folded napkin.

2688—MANDARINES A LA CRÈME

Empty the tangerines, and fill their peels with a somewhat thick tangerine Bavarois preparation, combined with a third of its bulk of fresh, raw cream.

Place them in ice until they have to be served; dish them as directed in the preceding recipe.

2689—MANDARINES EN SURPRISE

Proceed as for the oranges, but for the orange ice substitute tangerine jelly.

Oranges.

2690—ORANGES AU BLANC-MANGE

Cut the oranges and empty them as directed in the case of tangerines. Then fill them with French blanc-mange (No. 2625), and let it set. Close the oranges with the slices cut off at the start, and dish them on a napkin.

2691—ORANGES RUBANNÉES

Garnish the empty orange-rinds with regular layers of variously coloured and flavoured blanc-manges, or with alternated fruit jellies. When about to serve, quarter the oranges.

N.B.—These quartered oranges are sometimes used for the garnishing of cold entremets.

2692—ORANGES EN SURPRISE

Cut a lateral slice from each orange, representing about one-fourth of their height, and empty them. Garnish the peels with orange ice; cover the latter with Italian meringue; set the garnished peels on broken ice, lying on a tray, and set them in a sufficiently hot oven, to quickly colour the meringue. On taking the oranges out of the oven, close each with the slices cut from them at the start, in which are stuck imitation leaves and stalks, made from pulled sugar. Dish them on a napkin.

2693—ORANGES SOUFFLÉES

Empty the oranges as above; garnish the rinds with an orange soufflé preparation, and cook the latter.

On taking the oranges out of the oven, cover the soufflé with the slices cut off at the start; dish the oranges on a napkin, and serve them instantly.

Peaches and Nectarines (Pêches et Nectarines).

As nectarines may be prepared after the same recipes as peaches, there is no need to give special recipes for the former.

2694—PÊCHES AIGLON

After having peeled the peaches, poach them in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and leave them to cool therein. Drain them, dish them upon a layer of vanilla ice-cream, spread in a false-bottomed silver timbale, the inner compartment of which contains broken ice. Sprinkle crystallised violets over the peaches; set the timbale on a block of ice, carved to represent an eagle, and cover the whole with a veil of spun sugar.

2695—PÊCHES A L’AURORE

Poach the peeled peaches in a Kirsch-flavoured syrup, and let them cool there. Drain them; dish them in a silver timbale, upon a layer of “iced mousse with strawberries,” and coat the whole with a Curaçao-flavouredsabayon.

2696—PÊCHES ALEXANDRA

Poach the peaches in a vanilla-flavoured syrup and let them completely cool. Dish them in a timbale surrounded by ice containing on its bottom a layer of vanilla ice-cream, covered with a strawberry purée. Sprinkle the peaches with white and red rose-petals, and veil the whole with spun sugar.

2697—PÊCHES CARDINAL

Poach the peaches in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and, when they are quite cold, dish them in a timbale. Cover them with a very red, sweetened, raspberry purée, flavoured with Kirsch, and sprinkled with very white, splintered fresh almonds.

2698—PÊCHES DAME-BLANCHE

Poach the peaches in vanilla-flavoured syrup. When they are cold, set them in a timbale upon a layer of vanilla ice-cream, covered with thin slices of pine-apple macerated in Maraschino and Kirsch.

Between each peach, and in every crevice, put some balls of Chantilly cream, laid by means of a piping-bag, fitted with a grooved pipe.

2699—PÊCHES MELBA

Poach the peaches in vanilla-flavoured syrup. Dish them in a timbale upon a layer of vanilla ice-cream, and coat them with a raspberry purée.

2700—PÊCHES PETIT-DUC

Prepare the peaches as under No. 2698, but use small heaps of red-currant jelly instead of balls of cream.

2701—PÊCHES A LA SULTANE

Poach the peaches in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and let them cool.

Dish them in a timbale upon a layer of pistachio ice, and coat them with very cold, thickened syrup, flavoured with rose essence.

Veil the whole with spun sugar, and set the timbale upon a block of ice.

2702—PÊCHES AU CHATEAU-LAFFITE

Scald the peaches; peel them, and cut them in two.

Poach them in sufficient Château-Laffite wine to cover them, and sugar the wine to the extent of ten oz. of sugar per bottle.

Leave them to cool in the syrup, and dish them in a silver timbale.

Reduce the wine by three-quarters; thicken it with a little raspberry-flavoured, red-currant jelly.

When this syrup is quite cold, sprinkle the peaches with it.

2703—PÊCHES A L’IMPÉRATRICE

Cut the peaches in two; poach them in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and let them cool. Then drain and dry them; garnish the cut side of each of the half-peaches with enough vanilla ice-cream to give them the appearance of whole fruit. Coat the peach-side of each with some stiff apricot sauce, and roll them in pralined splintered almonds.

Dish these peaches upon a cushion of Génoise, saturated with Kirsch and Maraschino, set upon a dry-paste base, and glazed with raspberry glaze.

Veil the whole with spun sugar.

2704—PÊCHES ROSE-CHÉRI

Poach the peaches in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and let them cool. Dish them in a timbale; cover them with a purée of pine-apple with Clicquot, and serve very cold.

2705—PÊCHES ROSE-POMPON

Scald and peel some fine peaches; poach them in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and let them cool. Stone them without opening or breaking them overmuch, and in the place of the stone, put some very firm vanilla ice-cream.

Set these reconstructed peaches in a silver timbale, upon a layer of raspberry ice; cover them with pralined Chantilly cream; and before serving put them for thirty minutes in the refrigerator.

At the last moment, veil the timbale with pink, spun sugar.

Pears (Poires).

2706—POIRES ALMA

Peel the pears and poach them in a syrup made from one quart of water, one-half pint of port wine, eight ounces of sugar, and the blanched and chopped zest of an orange. Cool: dish them in a timbale; sprinkle them with powdered pralin, and serve a Chantilly cream at the same time.

2707—POIRES CARDINAL

Poach the pears in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and then proceed as directed under No. 2697.

2708—POIRES A LA CARIGNAN

Evenly turn some very fine dessert pears, and cook them in a vanilla-flavoured syrup; keeping them fairly firm. Drain them on a dish and let them cool. This done, trim them flat at their base, and empty them from underneath by means of a root spoon, after having outlined the circumference of the opening with an even round cutter.

Fill them with a preparation of “Bombe au chocolat praliné” (see Bombe, No.).

Close them up with a little roundel of Génoise, stamped out by means of the same cutter as that used above.

Set the pears on a tray; coat them speedily with apricot jam cooked to the small-thread stage; glaze them with chocolate fondant, and keep them for three hours in a very cold refrigerator. Meanwhile, prepare as many small Génoise squares as there are pears; and make them one-quarter inch wider than the diameter of the pears. Saturate these square bases with Anisette, and by means of a little apricot jam cooked to the small-thread stage, stick each of them on to very thin, dry-paste bases of the same size. Coat these prepared bases with the same apricot jam, and garnish them all round, as also their uncovered corners, with pralined splintered almonds.

When about to serve, take the pears out of the refrigerator, set them on these bases: stick into each a stalk and a leaf, made from pulled sugar; and dish on a napkin.

N.B.—Each pear should be cut vertically into two, three, or four pieces, subject to its size.

2709—POIRES FÉLICIA

Poach some quartered William pears in vanilla-flavoured syrup and let them cool. Cook also, in a pink syrup, some very small halved pears.

Dish the quarters in the middle of a border of Viennese cream (No. 2641) laid out upon a dish. Cover them with a pyramid of vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream, and sprinkle its surface with crushed, red pralines.

Surround the cream border with the pink half-pears.

2710—POIRES A LA FLORENTINE

Fill an oiled border-mould with a semolina Bavarois preparation, and let it set. Turn it out at the last moment, and garnish the middle of the border with stewed pears, cohered by means of a vanilla-flavoured apricot purée.

2711—POIRES HÉLÈNE

Poach the pears in vanilla-flavoured syrup and let them cool.

When about to serve, dish them in a timbale upon a layer of vanilla ice-cream, sprinkled with crystallised violets.

Serve a hot, chocolate sauce separately.

2712—POIRES MARQUISE

Cook the pears in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and drain them that they may cool. This done, coat them again and again with some very stiff raspberry-flavoured red-currant jelly, and sprinkle them instantly with chopped, burnt almonds.

Set the pears on a “Diplomatic Pudding,” made in a manqué mould, and turned out on a round dish. Surround the base of the pudding with a border of apple-jelly croûtons, neatly cut to triangular shapes.

2713—POIRES MARY-GARDEN

Cook the pears in syrup; cool them, and dish them on a timbale, upon a Melba sauce, combined with half-sugared cherries, softened in tepid water for a few minutes.

Decorate the pears with Chantilly cream.

2714—POIRES MELBA

Poach the pears in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and proceed as directed under No. 2699.

2715—POIRES PRALINEES

Stew the pears and let them cool. Set them in a timbale, and coat with some Frangipan cream, thinned by means of a little raw cream.

Between each pear, set a well-moulded tablespoonful of Chantilly cream, and cover the whole with concassed-almond pralin.

Serve a cold or hot chocolate sauce at the same time.

2716—POIRES A LA RELIGIEUSE

Stew the pears in a vanilla-flavoured syrup; cool them, and dish them in a shallow porcelain timbale equal in depth to the length of the pears.

Cover them with a somewhat thin chocolate Bavarois preparation, and place the whole for two hours in the refrigerator before serving.

2717—POIRES AU RHUM

Stew the pears and set them in a timbale.

Thicken the syrup with arrowroot, colour it faintly with pink; flavour it with rum; pour it over the pears, and let them cool.

N.B.—These pears may also be served hot, after the same recipe; except that the rum is poured over the pears, hot, at the last moment, and set alight at the table.

2718—POIRES A LA REINE EMMA

Mould a Flamri preparation in an even border-mould, decorated with candied fruit. Set this to poach, and, when it is cold, turn it out on a round dish.

In the middle set a pyramid of quartered pears, stewed in a vanilla-flavoured syrup; coat the quarters with Frangipan cream, combined with a quarter of its bulk of crushed, dry macaroons, and with double its volume of very stiff Chantilly cream.

Decorate the top, by means of a piping-bag, with Chantilly cream; and serve some Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.

Apples.

2719—POMMES A LA ROYALE

Peel some small apples, core them by means of a tube-cutter, and poach them in vanilla-flavoured syrup. When they are quite cold, coat them with red-currant jelly, and dish them in a circle, each upon a tartlet of blanc-mange. Garnish their midst with chopped Maraschino jelly.

Various Cold Sweets (Entremets).

2720—BISCUIT A LA REINE

Cook, in a manqué mould, a Savoy-biscuit preparation, and let it cool.

With a little apricot jam, cooked to the small-thread stage, stick this biscuit on a dry-paste base; saturate it with cold syrup, flavoured with Kümmel, and by means of a piping-bag decorate it all round and on its edges with royale icing.

Turn out upon it a Bavarois with Maraschino, moulded in a Richelieu mould of proportionate size.

2721—CROÛTE A LA MEXICAINE

Cut some slices three inches long by one-third inch thick from a stale Génoise. Coat them with a Condé pralin, and dry them in a moderate oven.

Set these croûtes in a crown on a round dish, and garnish their midst with a rocky pyramid of plombière ice, projecting above them.

2722—DIPLOMATE AUX FRUITS

Prepare (1) a base of Génoise with fruit, glazed with apricot jam, cooked to the small-thread stage; (2) a Bavarois with fruits.

Turn out the latter upon the former, and surround the whole with stewed fruit of the same kind as those used for the Bavarois.

2723—ILE FLOTTANTE

Take a stale Savoy biscuit, and cut it into thin slices.

Saturate the latter with Kirsch and Maraschino, coat them with apricot jam, and sprinkle the latter with currants and chopped almonds. Put the slices one upon the other, in suchwise as to reconstruct the biscuit, and coat the latter with a layer of sweetened and vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream.

Sprinkle the cream with splintered pistachios and currants; set the whole on a tazza, and surround it with vanilla-flavoured English custard, or raspberry syrup.

2724—MILK JUNKET

Gently heat one quart of milk. When it has reached 95° F. take it off the fire; add two and one-half oz. of sugar to it; flavour it as fancy may suggest; put into it six drops of russet-apple essence (or two pastils of russet-apple essence, dissolved in six drops of water); pour it into a timbale, and serve it very cold.

N.B.—This very delicate and simple entremet is little else, indeed, than flavoured and sweetened milk, caused to set by the combined agencies of heat and russet-apple essence.

2725—MACÉDOINE OF COOLED FRUIT

Take some fresh fruit of the season, such as ripe William pears and peaches, peeled and sliced apricots and bananas, and add to it some small or large strawberries, raspberries, white- and red-currants; skinned, fresh almonds, etc.

Set these fruits in a timbale surrounded by ice, mixing them well together; sprinkle them with a syrup at 30° (saccharom.), flavoured with Kirsch or Maraschino, and let them macerate for an hour or two; taking care to toss them from time to time.

2726—EUGENIA: ITALIAN CREAM

Select some very ripe Eugenia; peel, slice, and set to macerate in a bowl, with Maraschino-flavoured syrup.

Set the fruit in a timbale, upon a layer of vanilla ice-cream; decorate them on top with Chantilly cream, and sprinkle the latter with crystallised violets.

2727—MARQUISE ALICE

Prepare a pralin-flavoured Bavarois in a manqué mould: garnish the inside with lady’s-finger biscuits, saturated with Anisette.

Turn it out on a dish, and completely cover it with an even coat of very stiff, sweetened and vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream.

On top, lay some parallel lines of red-currant jelly, by means of the piping-bag; and then cut these lines at right angles, with the point of a small knife. Surround the base with small puff-paste triangles, coated with “Pralin a Condé,” dried in the oven.

2728—MELON A L’ORIENTALE

Take a melon that is just ripe; make a circular incision round its stalk, and remove the resulting bung. Get rid of the seeds and withdraw the pulp by means of a silver spoon. Cut the pulp into dice.

Copiously sprinkle the inside of the melon with icing-sugar and fill it up with wild strawberries and the pulp dice, spread in alternate layers, sprinkled with sugar. Complete with one-sixth pint of Kirsch; close the melon with the excised bung, seal the joint with a thread of butter, and keep the melon in the cool for two hours.

Dish it on a napkin, and serve gaufrettes at the same time.

2729—MELON FRAPPE

Select two very ripe, medium-sized melons, and, with the entire pulp of one of them, cleared of all the rind and seeds and rubbed through tammy, prepare a Granité after No. 2930.

Cut the other melon round the stalk and open it. Completely remove the seeds; and, by means of a silver spoon, withdraw the pulp piecemeal, and set it to macerate on ice with a little sugar and one of the following wines or liqueurs: Port, Curaçao

Keep the emptied rind for thirty minutes in a refrigerator.

When about to serve, set the emptied melon on a small block of fancifully carved ice, and fill it up with the Granité and the macerated pulp spread in alternate layers. When the melon is full, return the excised bung to its place.

N.B.—This melon is served, by means of a spoon, upon iced plates, and it often takes the place of ices at the end of a dinner.

2730—MELON EN SURPRISE

Empty the melon as above, and fill it with a macédoine of fresh fruits, combined with the withdrawn pulp of the melon, cut into dice and cohered with a sugared and Kirsch-flavoured purée of wild strawberries.

Close the melon and keep it in the refrigerator for two hours.

2731—GARNISHED MERINGUES

Join the meringue shells together in couples, by means of some stiff sugared and flavoured Chantilly cream or with some sort of ice, and dish them on a napkin.

2732—MONT-BLANC AUX FRAISES

Add some small wild strawberries macerated in cold, vanilla-flavoured syrup and drained, to some very stiff Chantilly cream; the proportions being four oz. of the former per quart of the latter.

Dish in the shape of a dome; surround the base with large strawberries, rolled in beaten egg-whites and then in semolina sugar, and decorate the surface with large and very red half-strawberries.

2733—MONT-BLANC AUX MARRONS

Cook some chestnuts in sweetened and vanilla-flavoured milk and rub them through a sieve, over an overturned, even border-mould; in order that the chestnut purée, falling in the form of vermicelli, may garnish the mould naturally.

Fill up the mould with the purée

2734—MONT-ROSE

Prepare a Charlotte, Plombière in a shallow Madeleine ice-mould.

Having turned out the Charlotte on a dish, cover it on top with tablespoonfuls of Chantilly cream, combined with a purée

2735—ŒUFS A LA NEIGE

Mould some ordinary meringue, by means of a spoon, to represent eggs; and drop the mouldings into a sautépan containing some boiling sugared and vanilla-flavoured milk. Turn the meringues over in the milk, that they may poach evenly, and, as soon as they are firm, drain them in a sieve.

Strain the milk through muslin; add six egg yolks, and with it prepare an English custard.

Set the egg-shaped meringues on a tazza and cover them with the prepared custard, kept very cold.

2736—MOULDED ŒUFS A LA NEIGE

Prepare the meringues and the English custard as above; but to the latter add five or six gelatine leaves soaked in cold water. Set the egg-shaped meringues in an oiled border-mould; cover them with the very cold custard, which, however, should not have set; and let the preparation set in the cool, or surrounded by ice.

2737—MOUSSELINES D’ŒUFS REJANE

By means of a piping-bag, fitted with an even pipe, lay some ordinary meringues upon sheets of white paper, in shapes resembling large macaroons.

Slip the sheets of paper into boiling, sugared and vanilla-flavoured milk, and withdraw the sheets of paper as soon as the meringues sever from them. Complete the poaching of the meringues, and drain them.

Set these meringues, two by two, in silver or porcelain egg-dishes; place a fine, poached half apricot in the middle of each, and cover the whole with a few teaspoonfuls of English custard.

2738—MOUSSELINE OF EGGS, MIMI

This is a preparation of ordinary Italian meringue, poached in a bain-marie, in a caramel-clothed mould. Let the contents get quite cold before turning out, and serve some stewed, fresh fruit and an English custard separately.

2739—RICE A L’IMPÉRATRICE

Make a vanilla-flavoured preparation of rice for entremets, using the quantities of milk and sugar already prescribed. When the rice is cooked, and somewhat cold, add to it four oz. of a salpicon of candied fruit and four tablespoonfuls of apricot jam, per one-half lb. of raw rice. Then combine with it an equal quantity of Kirsch-flavoured Bavarois preparation, or one pint of thick English custard and one pint of whipped cream.

Let a layer of red-currant jelly set upon the bottom of a Bavarois mould; then pour the above preparation into the latter and let the whole set, either in the cool or surrounded by ice.

When about to serve, turn out on a napkin.

2740—RICE A LA MALTAISE

Prepare the rice with milk as above, but flavour it with orange rind, and omit the apricot jam and the candied fruit salpicon. Combine with it an equal quantity of orange Bavarois preparation; pour the whole into a dome-mould, and let it set on ice. When about to serve, turn out upon a round dish, and cover it with alternate rows of orange-sections, skinned raw and macerated in a syrup flavoured with orange-rind.

2741—SUÉDOISE OF FRUIT

As I mentioned in my remarks upon the preparation of jellies, a Suédoise of fruit is a jelly moulded in an aspic mould and garnished with layers of stewed fruit, the colours and kinds of which should be contrasted as much as possible.

2742—FRAISALIA TIMBALE

Prepare a timbale of Savarin paste in a Charlotte mould.

When it is baked and cooled, remove the crumb from its inside leaving a thickness of half an inch on its bottom and sides; smear it thinly with Kirsch-flavoured syrup, and return the timbale to the mould.

Now garnish it with alternate layers of vanilla-flavoured, Bavarois preparation and wild strawberries, macerated in Kirsch. Let it set in the cool, or surround the mould with ice. Turn out the timbale first upon a plate; overturn it on a dish, and upon it set a pyramid of vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream. Stud the latter all over with small, very red strawberries, or garnish it with large half-strawberries.

Surround the timbale with fine dice of strawberry jelly.

2743—TIVOLI AUX FRAISES

Clothe an ornamented mould, fitted with a central tube, with a thick coat of very clear, Kirsch-flavoured jelly. Fill the mould with a Bavarois preparation, combined with plenty of wild strawberry purée, and let its contents set. Turn it out, when about to serve, and surround it with very clear, chopped, Kirsch-flavoured jelly.

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