Part 2 — CHAPTER XVI POULTRY (VOLAILLE) (continued 3)

Poële a Rouen duckling until it is just cooked, and let it cool in its liquor. Raise the fillets; skin them, and cut them each into eight thin slices. Coat them with a brown chaud-froid sauce, and decorate with truffles. Prepare an equal number of slices of tongue the size and shape of the slices of duckling, and coat them with aspic.

With the remains and the meat of the legs, prepare a mousse, and pour it into a square or oval silver dish; let it cool, and then set the aiguillettes of duckling and the slices of tongue upon it, alternating them in so doing, and cover the mousse with aspic.

1769—MOUSSE ET MOUSSELINES DE CANETON ROUENNAIS

These are prepared with the same quantities as the chicken mousses and mousselines, but they allow of no other sauce than the Rouennaise or the Bigarrade, nor of any other garnishes than sections of orange, cherries, vegetable purées, or creams.

1770—MOUSSE DE CANETON ROUENNAIS

With the exception of the nature of the principal ingredient, the preparation, quantities, and moulding of this mousse are the same as for chicken mousse. The reader is, therefore, begged to refer to No. 1670, which may be applied perfectly well to Rouen duckling.

1771—SOUFFLÉ FROID DE CANETON A L’ORANGE

Proceed as for the “Caneton aux cerises,” but with this difference, that the duckling is used entirely for the mousse.

Serve, similarly, in a square dish, and surround with sections of oranges skinned raw. Cover with an aspic jelly flavoured with the juice of Seville oranges, and combined with a liqueur-glassful of curaçao per pint of jelly.

1772—TERRINE DE CANETON ROUENNAIS A LA GELÉE

First prepare the following forcemeat:—Heat three oz. of fat bacon, cut into small dice, and three oz. of butter in a frying-pan. Throw six fine ducks’ livers (seasoned with salt and pepper, and sprinkled with a pinch of powdered thyme, bay-leaf, and half an onion chopped) into this fat. Toss them over a fierce fire, just long enough to heat them; leave them to cool, and rub them through a sieve.

Bone the breast of a Rouen duckling and its back as far as the region of the legs, and suppress the tail. Stuff it with the preparation given above; truss as for an entrée, and put it in a terrine just large enough to hold it. Sprinkle it with a glassful of brandy; cover with a slice of bacon, and cook it in the bain-marie, in the oven, and under cover for forty minutes.

With the carcass and some strong veal stock, prepare two-thirds pint of excellent aspic, and, when withdrawing the duckling from the oven, cover it with this aspic, and let it cool. When about to serve, remove all grease, first by means of a spoon, and then by means of boiling water, and set the terrine on a napkin lying on a long dish.

1773—TIMBALE DE CANETON A LA VOISIN

Roast a Rouen duckling, and keep it underdone; let it cool, and raise its fillets. With the carcass prepare a Salmis sauce, and thicken it with aspic as for a chaud-froid sauce.

Cut the fillets into slices, coat them with Salmis sauce, and leave this to set. Let a thickness of sauce set on the bottom of a timbale.

Upon this sauce lay some of the coated slices, alternating them with slices of truffle, and cover with a thin layer of aspic jelly. Lay another row of slices of fillet and of truffles, followed as before by a layer of aspic, and continue thus in the same order. Complete with a somewhat thick layer of aspic, and keep in the cool until ready for serving.

N.B.—This old and excellent cold entrée is really only a cold salmis. The procedure may be applied to all game suited to the salmis method of preparation. It is the simplest and certainly the best way of serving them cold.

1774—PINTADES (GUINEA FOWL)

The guinea-fowl is not equal to the pheasant from the gastronomical standpoint, though it often takes the place of the latter among the roasts after the shooting season. But, though it has neither the fine flavour nor the delicate meat of the pheasant, it does good service notwithstanding. The majority of pheasant recipes may be applied to it, especially à la Bohémienne, à la crèmeChartreuse, en salmis, à la choucroûte, &c.

1775—PIGEONS AND SQUABS (PIGEONS ET PIGEONNEAUX)

Young pigeons are not very highly esteemed by English gourmets, and this is more particularly to be regretted, since, when the birds are of excellent quality, they are worthy the best tables.

1776—PIGEONNEAUX A LA BORDELAIS

Open the squabs down the back; season them; slightly flatten them, and toss them in butter. They may just as well be halved as left whole. Dish, and surround with the garnish given under “Poulet à la Bordelaise” (No. 1538).

1777—PIGEONNEAUX EN CASSEROLE A LA PAYSANNE

Cook the squabs in the oven in an earthenware saucepan.

When they are two-thirds done, surround them with one and one-half oz. of salted breast of pork, cut into small dice and blanched, and two oz. of sliced and sautéd potatoes for each pigeon. Complete the cooking of the whole gently, and, when about to serve, add a little good gravy.

1778—PIGEONNEAUX EN CHARTREUSE

Prepare the Chartreuse in a Charlotte mould, as explained under No. 1182. Line the bottom and sides with a layer of braised, drained, and pressed cabbages; in the centre set the squabs, cooked “à la casserole” and cut into two lengthwise, and alternate them with small rectangles of blanched, salted breast of pork, and sausage roundels. Cover with cabbages, and steam in a bain-marie for thirty minutes.

Let the Chartreuse stand for five minutes after withdrawing from the bain-marie; turn out on a round dish, and surround with a few tablespoonfuls of half-glaze sauce.

1779—PIGEONNEAUX EN CRAPAUDINE

Cut the young pigeons horizontally in two, from the apex of the breast to the wings. Open them; flatten them slightly; season them; dip them in melted butter, roll them in bread-crumbs, and grill them gently.

Serve a devilled sauce at the same time.

1780—PIGEONNEAUX EN COMPOTE

Fry in butter two oz. of blanched, salted breast of pork and two oz. of raw mushrooms, peeled and quartered. Drain the bacon and the mushrooms, and set the squabs, trussed as for an entrée, to fry in the same butter.

Withdraw them when they are brown; drain them of butter; swill with half a glassful of white wine; reduce the latter, and add sufficient brown stock and half-glaze sauce (tomatéd), in equal quantities, to cover the birds. Plunge them into this sauce, with a faggot, and simmer until they are cooked and the sauce is reduced to half.

This done, transfer the squabs to another saucepan; add the pieces of bacon, the mushrooms, and six small onions, glazed with butter, for each bird; strain the sauce over the whole through a fine sieve; simmer for ten minutes more, and serve very hot.

1781—PIGEON PIE

Line the bottom and sides of a pie-dish with very thin, flattened collops of lean beef, seasoned with salt and pepper, and sprinkled with chopped shallots.

Set the quartered pigeons inside the dish, and separate them with a halved hard-boiled egg-yolk for each pigeon. Moisten half-way up with good gravy; cover with a layer of puff paste; gild; streak; make a slit in the top, and bake for about one and one-half hours in a good, moderate oven.

1782—VOL AU VENT DE PIGEONNEAUX

Suppress the feet and the pinions; poële the squabs, and only just cook them.

Cut each bird into four, and mix them with a garnish “à la Financière” (No. 1474) combined with the poëling-liquor. Pour the whole into a vol-au-vent crust, and dish on a napkin.

1783—CÔTELETTES DE PIGEONNEAUXA LA NESLES

Cut them in two, and reserve the claw, which serves as the bone of the cutlet. Flatten them slightly; season, and fry them in butter on one side only. Cool them under slight pressure; coat their fried side, dome-fashion, with some godiveau with cream, combined with a third of its bulk of gratin forcemeat and chopped truffles. Set them on a tray, and place in a moderate oven to complete the cooking, and poach the forcemeat. Dish in a circle, and separate the cutlets with collops of veal sweetbreads, dipped in beaten eggs, rolled in bread-crumbs, and tossed in butter. Garnish their midst with mushrooms and sliced fowls’ livers, tossed in butter and cohered with a few tablespoonfuls of Madeira sauce.

1784—CÔTELETTES DE PIGEONNEAUX EN PAPILLOTES

Cut the pigeons in two, as above; stiffen them in butter, and enclose them in papillotes as explained under “Côtelettes de Veau en Papillotes” (No. 1259).

1785—CÔTELETTES DE PIGEONNEAUX A LA SÉVIGNÉ

Sauté the half-pigeons in butter, and leave them to cool under slight pressure. Garnish their cut sides dome-fashion with a salpicon of white chicken-meat, mushrooms, and truffles, the whole cohered by means of a cold Allemande sauce.

Dip them in beaten egg, roll them in bread-crumbs, and cook them gently in clarified butter.

Dish them in a circle; garnish their midst with asparagus-heads cohered with butter, and serve a light, Madeira sauce separately.

1786—SUPRÊMES DE PIGEONNEAUX A LA DIPLOMATE

Raise the fillets and slightly flatten them; stiffen them in butter, and leave them to cool under slight pressure. This done, dip them in a Villeroy sauce, combined with chopped herbs and mushrooms, and cool them. Dip each fillet in beaten egg; roll them in bread-crumbs, and fry just before serving.

Dish in a circle, and in their midst set a heap of fried parsley. Send separately a garnish of pigeon quenelles, mushrooms, and small, olive-shaped truffles, to which a half-glaze sauce flavoured with pigeon essence has been added.

1787—SUPRÊMES DE PIGEONNEAUX A LA SAINT-CLAIR

With the meat of the legs prepare a mousseline forcemeat, and, with the latter, make some quenelles the size of small olives, and set them to poach. Poële the breasts, without colouration, on a thick litter of sliced onions, and keep them underdone. Add a little velouté to the onions; rub them through tammy, and put the quenelles in this sauce.

In the middle of a shallow croustade, set a pyramid of cèpes tossed in butter. Raise the fillets; skin them, and set them on the cèpes; coat them with the prepared sauce; surround with a thread of meat glaze, and place the quenelles all round.

1788—SUPRÊMES DE PIGEONNEAUX A LA MARIGNY

Cut off the legs, and, with their meat, prepare a forcemeat. Poach the latter on a tray, and stamp it out with an oval cutter into pieces the size of the suprêmes.

Cover the breasts with slices of bacon, and poële them, taking care to only just cook them.

Quickly raise the suprêmes, skin them, and set each upon an oval of forcemeat, sticking them on by means of a little gratin forcemeat.

Put the suprêmes in the oven for a moment, that this forcemeat may poach. Dish the suprêmes round a pyramid consisting of a smooth purée of peas, and coat with a velouté sauce, finished with an essence prepared from the remains and the poëling-liquor of the breasts.

1789—SUPRÊMES DE PIGEONNEAUX AUX TRUFFES

Raise the suprêmes, flatten them slightly; toss them in clarified butter, and set them on a border of smooth forcemeat, laid on a dish by means of a piping-bag, and poached in the front of the oven.

Swill the vegetable-pan with Madeira; add four fine slices of truffle for each suprême, and a little pale melted meat glaze, and finish with a moderate amount of butter.

Coat the suprêmes with this sauce, and set the slices of truffle upon it.

1790—MOUSSELINES DE PIGEONNEAUX A L’EPICURIENNE

Prepare and poach these mousselines like the chicken ones, but make them a little smaller. Dish them in the form of a crown; set thereon a young pigeon’s fillet roasted, and in their midst arrange a garnish of peas with lettuce. Coat with a fumet prepared from the carcasses and cohered with a few tablespoonfuls of velouté.

N.B.—Pigeons and squabs may also be prepared after the recipes given for chicks.

Relevés and Entrées

GAME

VENISON AND GROUND GAME

The stag (Fr. Cerf) and the fallow deer (Fr. Daim) supply the only venison that is consumed in England, where the roebuck (Fr. Chevreuil) is not held in very high esteem. True, the latter’s flesh is very often mediocre in quality, and saddles and legs of roebuck often have to be imported from the Continent when they are to appear on an important menu.

On the other hand, venison derived from the stag or red deer and the fallow deer proper is generally of superior quality. The former has perhaps more flavour, but the latter, which is supplied by animals bred in herds on large private estates, has no equal as far as delicacy and tenderness are concerned, while it is covered with white and scented fat, which is greatly appreciated by English connoisseurs.

Although these two kinds of venison are generally served as relevés, they belong more properly to the roasts, and I shall give their recipes a little later on. In any case, only half of the hind-quarters (that is to say, the leg together with that part of the saddle which reaches from it to the floating ribs) is served at high-class tables.

I shall now, therefore, only give the various recipes dealing with roebuck, it being understood that these, if desired, may be applied to corresponding joints of the stag or deer.

1791—SELLE DE CHEVREUIL ET CUISSOT

Saddles and legs of roebuck may be prepared after the same recipes, and allow of the same garnishes. The recipes for saddle which I give hereafter may therefore be applied equally well to legs.

Whichever joint be selected, it must first be cleared of all tendons and then larded with larding bacon. The last operation is no more essential than is the marinading which in France has become customary with such pieces. It might even be said with justice that marinading is not only useless, but harmful, more particularly in the case of young animals whose meat has been well hung.

Unlike many other specimens of game, roebuck has to be eaten fresh; it does not suit it to be in the least tainted. I should like to point out here that game shot in ambush is best, owing to the fact that animals killed after a chase decompose very quickly, and thereby lose a large proportion of their flavour.

The saddle of the roebuck generally consists of the whole of the latter’s back, from the withers to the tail, in which case the bones of the ribs are cut very short, that the joint may lie steady at all points.

At the croup-end, cut the joint on either side diagonally, from the point of the haunch to the root of the tail. Sometimes, however, the saddle only consists of the lumbar portion of the back, and, in this case, the ribs are cut up to be cooked as cutlets.

1792—SELLE DE CHEVREUIL A L’ALLEMANDE

Marinade the saddle for two or three days in raw marinade No. 169, and roast it, on a narrow baking-tray, upon the vegetables of the marinade.

As soon as the joint is cooked, withdraw it; swill the tray with a little marinade, and almost entirely reduce. Clear of grease; add two-thirds pint of cream and one powdered juniper berry; reduce by a third; complete with a few drops of melted glaze, and rub through tammy.

Serve this sauce at the same time as the saddle, which set on a long dish.

1793—SELLE DE CHEVREUIL A LA BADEN-BADEN

The saddle should be marinaded and well dried before being set to cook.

Poële it on the vegetables of the marinade.

When it is cooked, put it on a long dish, and, at either end of it, set a garnish of stewed pears, unsugared, but flavoured with cinnamon and lemon-rind. Pour one-third pint of game stock into the tray in which the joint was cooked; cook for ten minutes; strain; clear of grease, and thicken with arrowroot.

Serve this thickened stock separately, and send some red-currant jelly to the table at the same time.

1794—SELLE DE CHEVREUIL AUX CERISES

Keep the saddle for twelve hours in marinade (No. 169) made from verjuice instead of vinegar. Roast it on the spit, basting it with the marinade, and keep it slightly underdone.

At the same time, serve a cherry sauce consisting of equal quantities of poivrade sauce and red-currant jelly, to each pint of which add three oz. of semi-candied cherries, set to soak in hot water thirty minutes beforehand.

N.B.—This saddle need not be marinaded if it be desired plain.

1795—SELLE DE CHEVREUIL A LA CUMBERLAND

Roast it like a haunch of venison, without marinading it. Send it to the table with a timbale of French beans, cohered with butter, and serve a Cumberland sauce (No. 134) separately.

1796—SELLE DE CHEVREUIL A LA CRÉOLE

Marinade it for a few hours only, and roast it on the spit, basting it the while with the marinade.

Set it on a long dish, and surround it with bananas tossed in butter.

At the same time serve a Roberts sauce, combined with a third of its bulk of Poivrade sauce, and one oz. of fresh butter per pint.

1797—SELLE DE CHEVREUIL A LA BEAUJEU

Lard and roast it. Set it on a long dish, and surround it with artichoke-bottoms, garnished with lentil purée, and alternated with chestnuts cooked in a small quantity of consommé and glazed.

Serve a venison sauce separately.

1798—SELLE DE CHEVREUIL AU GENIÈVRE

Lard the saddle, and roast it. Swill the baking-tray with a small glassful of burned gin; add one powdered juniper berry and one-sixth pint of double cream. Reduce the cream to half; complete with a few tablespoonfuls of poivrade sauce and a few drops of lemon juice. Serve this sauce with the saddle, and send separately some hot stewed apples, very slightly sugared.

1799—SELLE DE CHEVREUIL AVEC SAUCES DIVERSES

Saddle of roebuck may also be served with the following sauces:—Poivrade, Venison, Grand-Veneur, Moscovite, Roberts, &c. The selected accompaniment determines the title of the dish.

1800—NOISETTES ET CÔTELETTES DE CHEVREUIL

The same recipes may be applied to both. Trim them after the manner of lamb noisettes or cutlets. They may be moderately marinaded, but they may also be used fresh. In the latter case, fry them in butter over a somewhat fierce fire, like the lamb noisettes.

If they have been marinaded, it is better to toss them very quickly in very hot oil, and then to dry them before dishing them.

It is in the dishing only that the noisettes and the cutlets differ; for, whereas the latter are always dished in a crown, one overlapping the other, or each separated from the rest by croûtons of bread-crumb fried in butter, the noisettes are always dished in a circle on small, oval croûtons fried in butter, or on tartlet crusts containing some kind of garnish.

1801—CÔTELETTES DE CHEVREUIL CONTI

Sauté the cutlets in very hot oil; dry them; dish them in a crown, and separate them by similarly-shaped collops of salted tongue.

Swill the saucepan with a little white wine; add this liquor to a Poivrade sauce, and coat the cutlets with it.

Serve a light, buttered purée of lentils at the same time.

1802—CÔTELETTES DE CHEVREUIL DIANE

Spread an even layer, one-third inch thick, of mousseline game forcemeat on a tray. Poach this forcemeat in a steamer or in a very moderate oven, and cut it into triangles equal in size to the cutlets.

Toss the latter as already explained; dish them in a crown, and separate them by croûtons of forcemeat already prepared.

Coat the whole with poivrade sauce, thinned by means of a little beaten cream, and garnished with crescents of truffle and hard-boiled white of egg, and serve a purée of chestnuts at the same time.

1803—NOISETTES DE CHEVREUIL AU GENIÈVRE

Cook the noisettes in smoking oil. Dry them, dish them, and coat them with the same sauce as that given under “Selle au Genièvre” (No. 1798).

Serve some stewed apples at the same time.

1804—NOISETTES DE CHEVREUIL ROMANOFF

Cook the noisettes; set them on stuffed sections of cucumber, prepared after No. 2124a, and place a slice of truffle on each noisette. Coat with a Poivrade sauce with cream, and serve a mushroom purée separately.

1805—NOISETTES DE CHEVREUIL VALENCIA

Cook the noisettes, and dish them in a circle, each on a round croûton of brioche fried in butter, and coat lightly with bigarrade sauce.

Serve a sauceboat of bigarrade sauce and an orange salad at the same time.

1806—NOISETTES DE CHEVREUIL VILLENEUVE

Carefully clear the meat of the roebuck of all tendons, and chop it up with a knife, combining with it the while the third of its weight of fresh butter, as much bread-crumb, soaked in milk, and pressed, and one-third pint of fresh cream per lb. of meat. Season, divide into portions weighing two oz., mould to a nice round shape, wrap in pig’s caul, cook quickly at the last moment, and dish in the form of a crown.

Coat with Chasseur sauce, and send a timbale of celery purée separately.

1807—NOISETTES DE CHEVREUIL WALKYRIE

Sauté the noisettes in the usual way, and dish them in the form of a crown, each on a small quoit of “Pommes Berny” (No. 2184). On each noisette lay a fine, grilled mushroom, garnished with a rosette of Soubise purée, made by means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe. Pour a little venison sauce over the dish, and send a sauceboat of it separately.

N.B.—Roebuck noisettes and cutlets are still served with purées of chestnuts or celery, with truffles, cèpes, mushrooms, &c.

The sauces best suited to them are Poivrade sauce and its derivatives, such as Venison sauce, Grand-Veneur sauce, Romaine sauce, &c., also Roberts sauce Escoffier.

1808—CIVET DE CHEVREUIL

For “Civet de Chevreuil” the shoulders, the neck, and the breast are used, and these pieces are cut up and set to marinade six hours beforehand with the aromatics and the same red wine as that with which the civet will be moistened.

When about to prepare the civet, drain and dry these pieces, and proceed exactly as for “Civet de Lièvre” (No. 1821), except for the thickening by means of blood, which the difficulty of obtaining the blood of the roebuck perforce precludes.

This civet, which should be classed among dishes for the home, is usually served in the form of a stew; for, inasmuch as the final thickening with blood is lacking, it can only be an imitation of the civet. When, therefore, hare’s blood is available, it should always be used in finishing this dish exactly after the manner of No. 1821—that is to say, the preparation should be given the characteristic stamp of civet by means of a final thickening with blood.

1809—BOAR AND YOUNG BOAR (SANGLIER ET MARCASSIN)

When the wild boar is over two years of age, it is no more fit to be served as food. Between one and two years it should be used with caution, and the various roebuck recipes may then be applied to it. But only the young boar less than twelve months old should be prepared in decent kitchens.

The hams of a young boar, salted and smoked, supply a very passable relevé, which allows of varying the ordinary menu. They are treated exactly like pork hams.

The saddle and the cushions may be prepared after the recipes given for saddle of roebuck, and the same holds good with the cutlets and the noisettes.

Finally, the saddle may be served cold, in a daube, when it is prepared after No. 1173.

As the various parts of the young boar are covered with fat, it is understood that they are not larded, nor do they need it.

1810—HARE AND LEVERET (LIÈVRE ET LEVRAUT)

As a result of one of those freaks of taste, of which I have already pointed out some few examples, hare is not nearly so highly esteemed as it deserves in England; and the fact seems all the more strange when one remembers that in many of her counties excellent specimens of the species are to be found.

Whatever be the purpose for which it is required, always select a young hare, five or six lbs. in weight. The age may be ascertained as follows:—Grasp one ear close to its extremity with both hands, and pull in opposite directions; if the ear tear, the beast is young; if it resist the strain, the hare is old, and should be set aside for soups and the preparation of fumets and forcemeats.

1811—LIÈVRE FARCI A LA PERIGOURDINE

Take care to collect all the blood when emptying the hare; break the bones of the legs, that they may be easily trussed; clear the legs and the fillets of all tendons, and lard them. Chop up the liver, the lungs, the heart, and four fowls’ livers, together with five oz. of fat bacon.

Add to this mincemeat five oz. of soaked and pressed bread-crumbs, the blood, two oz. of chopped onion, cooked in butter and cold; a pinch of chopped parsley, a piece of crushed garlic the size of a pea, and three oz. of raw truffle parings. Mix the whole up well; fill the hare with this stuffing; sew up the skin of the belly; truss the animal, and braise it in white wine for about two and one-half hours, basting it often the while. Glaze at the last moment. Serve the hare on a long dish.

Add two-thirds pint of half-glaze game sauce to the braising-liquor; reduce; clear of grease; strain, and add three oz. of chopped truffles to this sauce.

Pour a little sauce over the dish on which the hare has been set, and serve what remains of the sauce separately.

1812—RÂBLE DE LIÈVRE

The French term “râble” means the whole of the back of the hare, from the root of the neck to the tail, with the ribs cut very short.

Often, however, that piece which corresponds with the saddle in butchers’ meat alone is taken, i.e., the piece reaching from the croup to the floating ribs. Whatever be the particular cut, the piece should be well cleared of all tendons, and finely larded before being set to marinade; and this last operation may even be dispensed with when the “râble” is derived from a young hare.

Marinading would only become necessary if the piece had to be kept some considerable time.

1813—RÂBLE DE LIÈVRE A L’ALLEMANDE

Set the râble well dried on the vegetables of the marinade, which should be laid on the bottom of a long, narrow dish. When it is nearly cooked, remove the vegetables, pour one-quarter pint of cream into the dish, and complete the cooking of the râble, basting it the while with that cream.

Finish at the last minute with a few drops of lemon juice.

Dish the râble, and surround it with the cream stock, strained through a fine strainer.

1814—RÂBLE DE LIÈVRE AU GENIÈVRE

Roast it, as above, on the vegetables of the marinade.

Swill the dish with a small glassful of gin and two or three tablespoonfuls of marinade, and reduce to half. Add one-sixth pint of cream, two tablespoonfuls of poivrade sauce, and four powdered juniper berries.

Strain and serve this sauce separately at the same time as the râble.

1815—CUISSES DE LIÈVRE

Use the legs of young hares only; those of old animals may be used for the “civet” and forcemeat alone. After having cleared them of tendons and larded them with very thin strips of bacon, treat them like the râble.

1816—FILETS DE LEVRAUT A LA DAMPIERRE

Take five leverets’ fillets; contise them with slices of truffle, after the manner directed for “Suprêmes de Volaille à la Chevalière” (No. 1458); shape them like crescents, and set them on a buttered dish.

Lard the minion fillets with a rosette consisting of strips of salted tongue, and set them also on a buttered dish.

With what remains of the meat of the leverets, prepare a mousseline forcemeat, and add thereto some truffle essence and some chopped truffles.

Dish this forcemeat, shaping it like a truncated cone two and one-half inches high, the radius of which should be the length of a leveret’s fillet.

Set this forcemeat to poach in the front of the oven.

Sprinkle the fillets and the minion fillets with a little brandy and melted butter; cover them, and poach them likewise in the front of the oven. This done, arrange them radially on the cone of forcemeat, alternating the fillets and the minion fillets. Place a fine, glazed truffle in the middle of the rosette, and surround the base with mushrooms, separated by chestnuts cooked in consommé and glazed, and small onions cooked in butter.

Serve a poivrade sauce at the same time, combined with the fillets’ cooking-liquor.

1817—FILETS DE LEVRAUT A LA MORNAY (Recipe of the Frères Provençaux)

Trim two leverets’ fillets, and cut them into collops, one inch in diameter and one-third inch thick. Prepare (1) the same number of bread-crumb croûtons as there are collops, and make them of the same size as the latter, though half as thick; (2) the same number of thick slices of truffle, cooked at the last minute in a little Madeira.

Toss the collops of fillet quickly in clarified butter; colour the croûtons in butter at the same time, and mix the latter with the collops and the truffles in a saucepan.

Swill the sautépan with the Madeira in which the truffles have cooked; add a little succulent pale glaze; reduce sufficiently; strain the sauce through a sieve; finish it liberally with butter; add it to the sautéd collops, and serve the latter in a very hot timbale.

N.B.—This recipe was given by the Comte de Mornay himself to the proprietors of the famous Parisian restaurant, and for a long while the dish was one of the specialities of a house no longer extant.

1818—FILETS DE LEVRAUT A LA VENDOME

After having contised the leveret’s fillets, roll them round a buttered tin mould, and fasten them with a string, that they may form rings.

Set to poach. Meanwhile, spread on a buttered tray a layer one-half inch thick of game forcemeat; poach the latter; stamp it out by means of an even cutter into roundels of the same size as the rings, and set one of these on each of the forcemeat roundels, fixing it by means of a little raw forcemeat.

Cut the minion fillets into collops, and quickly toss them in butter with an equal quantity of mushrooms and five oz. of raw, sliced truffles.

Swill the saucepan with a little brandy and the poaching-liquor of the fillet-rings; add a little poivrade sauce; finish this sauce with butter, and plunge therein the collops of fillet, the mushrooms, and the truffles.

Set the rings in a circle on a dish, and fill them with this garnish. Serve separately a sauceboat of poivrade sauce and a timbale of chestnut purée.

1819—MOUSSES ET MOUSSELINES DE LIÈVRE

Proceed exactly as for all other mousses and mousselines, except, of course, in regard to the basic ingredient, which in this case is the meat of a hare.

1820—SOUFFLÉ

With one lb. of the meat of a hare, prepare a light mousseline forcemeat; add thereto the whites of two eggs, whisked to a stiff froth; poach the mousseline in a soufflé saucepan.

Cut the hare’s minion fillets into collops, and toss them in butter at the last moment.

Cook the soufflé in a moderate oven; coat the top lightly with half-glaze sauce flavoured with hare fumet, and surround it with the minion-fillet collops, alternated with slices of truffles.

The minion-fillet collops and the slices of truffles may be added to the sauce, and this garnish is served separately in another timbale.

1821—CIVET DE LIÈVRE

Skin and clean the hare, taking care to collect all the blood in so doing. Put the liver aside, after having carefully freed it from the gall-bladder, as also from those portions touching the latter.

Cut up the hare, and put the pieces in a basin with a few tablespoonfuls of brandy and an equal quantity of olive oil, salt, pepper, and an onion cut into thin roundels. Cover and leave to marinade for a few hours in the very red wine used for the moistening. Fry one-half lb. of lean bacon, cut into large dice, in butter, and drain it as soon as it is brown. In the same butter brown two fair-sized, quartered onions; add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and cook this roux gently until it acquires a golden tinge. Put the pieces of hare into this roux, after having well dried them, and stiffen them.

Moisten with the wine used for the marinade. Add a large faggot, in which place a garlic clove; cover, and leave to cook gently on the side of the stove.

A few minutes before serving, thicken the civet with the reserved blood, which should be gradually heated, and mix therewith a few tablespoonfuls of sauce. Then transfer the pieces of hare, one by one, to another saucepan with the fried pieces of bacon, twenty small, glazed onions, and twenty cooked mushrooms.

Strain the sauce over the whole through a strainer.

Dish in a warm timbale, and surround with heart-shaped croûtons fried in butter at the last moment.

Cold Preparations of Hare

1822—LIÈVRE EN DAUBE

Take a fresh hare, and bone it from the back without emptying it, that the skin of the belly may be untouched.

Detach the shoulders and the legs; do not touch the head; season with salt and pepper; sprinkle with a few drops of brandy, and leave to marinade. With the hare’s liver, some fat bacon, and some truffle parings, prepare a gratin forcemeat. Prepare another forcemeat with the meat of the shoulders and the legs, an equal weight of fat bacon, one egg, a pinch of wild thyme, salt, pepper, spices, and the brandy of the marinade. Rub this forcemeat through a sieve, and add to it the gratin forcemeat, one-half lb. of fat bacon, and five oz. of truffles cut into dice.

Fill the boned hare with this preparation; sew it up, and tie the head to the back in such wise as to give the piece the appearance of the animal at rest.

Wrap it in slices of bacon, and set it in a terrine lined with the latter; sprinkle with a glassful of brandy, and place in the oven for thirty minutes with lid off.

Then pour into the terrine a fumet prepared with red wine from the hare’s bones; cover, and then cook in the oven gently for three hours.

Leave to half-cool; drain away the cooking-liquor, and carefully remove the slices of bacon. Strain the cooking-liquor through muslin; return it to the terrine, and fill up the latter with savoury jelly.

Keep in the cool for two hours before serving.

1823—PAIN DE LIÈVRE

This “Pain” is prepared according to No. 1689, and it may be served in “Belle-vue,” after the manner described for cold pieces prepared in this way.

1824—PÂTÉ

Clear the fillets, the minion fillets, and the legs of all tendons; moderately lard them; season them; set them in a dish with an equal quantity of truffles and fat bacon strips; sprinkle with some brandy, and leave to marinade for one hour. With what remains of the meat, some fillets of veal and pork, in the proportion of six oz. per lb. of hare; fresh, fat bacon in the proportion of one and one-half lbs. per lb. of hare; and spiced salt, prepare a forcemeat, and finish it with one egg and three tablespoonfuls of brandy per lb. of forcemeat.

Rub through tammy, and add a portion of the hare’s blood.

Line a round or oval buttered mould with raised-pie paste, and completely cover the paste with slices of bacon. Then coat inside with forcemeat, and fill up the mould with alternate layers of forcemeat, hares’ fillets, truffle, and fat bacon strips.

Finish with a layer of forcemeat; cover with a slice of bacon; sprinkle a pinch of powdered thyme and bay over the latter; close the pie with a layer of paste, which should be sealed down round the moistened edges; pinch the crest inside and out, and finish off the pie by means of imitation leaves made from paste.

Gild; bake in a moderate oven, and, when the pie is almost cold, pour some jelly flavoured with hare fumet into it.

1825—TERRINE DE LIÈVRE

A “Terrine” or Patty is only a pie without a crust, and it allows of the same forcemeat and of the same garnish of bacon strips as the latter. The terrine should first be lined with slices of bacon, whereupon it is garnished like the pie with alternate layers of forcemeat, bacon strips, hares’ fillets, and truffles.

Cover with a slice of bacon; sprinkle the centre of the latter with a little powdered thyme and bay, and a little spice. Put the lid on the terrine, place it in a saucepan containing a little water, and set it to cook in the oven.

The time allowed for cooking is naturally subject to the size of the terrine. It is known to be quite cooked when the grease which rises to the surface is quite clear.

As long as this grease is turbid, raw juices are still issuing from the forcemeat and the garnish inside. Another method of telling is by the insertion of a needle. If the latter withdraws evenly heated throughout its length, the terrine is cooked.

If the patty is to be served immediately, add some aspic to it when it is just tepid, and set it to cool under slight pressure. When quite cold, clear it of grease; trim its surface, and cut it up in the utensil.

If it is to be served whole and presented, set it to cool under greater pressure; turn it out, and trim it all round. This done, cause a layer of jelly to set on the bottom of the terrine; return the trimmed patty to the latter, and surround it with melted aspic jelly.

When about to serve, turn it out after the manner of an aspic; set it on a long dish, and border the latter with jelly croûtons.

If it have to be kept some time, proceed as above, but use lard instead of aspic, and keep it well covered and in the cool.

1826—YOUNG WILD RABBIT (LAPEREAUX)

Use the wild rather than the tame young rabbit, and test its age after the manner described in regard to the hare, and also by means of a little lentil-shaped bone, which is to be found in the region of the patella.

As the wild rabbit ages, this bone shrinks and finally combines with the other bones of the articulation.

When the wild rabbit is old, it is tough, and can only be used for stock or forcemeats.

All the recipes given for “Poulet Sauté,” and those given for hare, may be applied to wild rabbit; the reader is, therefore, begged to refer to these.

1827—FEATHERED GAME

Feathered game comprises all esculent birds that live in freedom.

The number of species involved, therefore, is considerable, but from the culinary standpoint they may be grouped into ten principal classes, which are:—

1. The various pheasants, grey and red partridges, the Tetras Californias.

2. The hazel-hen, grouse, prairie fowls, ganga, sand-grouse.

3. The various wild ducks and teals.

4. The woodcocks and snipes.

5. The various plovers, lapwings, sandpipers, water-rails, water-hens.

6. The quails, land-rails, Virginia quails.

7. The various thrushes, Corsican blackbirds.

8. The various larks.

9. The warblers.

10. The ortolans.

The birds of Classes 1 and 4 are better high—that is to say, they should be hung for a few days, before being plucked, in a moderate draught, that they may begin to decompose, and that the particular flavour of their flesh may be accentuated, a process which increases their culinary value. Whatever opinion may be held in regard to the gaminess of these birds, one thing is quite certain—namely, that the meat of a fresh pheasant and that of a high one are two totally different things. When fresh, the meat is flavourless, whereas when it is reasonably high it is tender, full of taste, and of an incomparable flavour.

Formerly, it was the custom to lard the birds of Class 1, especially when they were to be roasted. But this practice should be resolutely discarded, for, if the bird be young, it can only impair the latter’s flavour, and, if it be old, it cannot possibly restore those qualities to it which it has already lost.

Besides, an old bird should never be served; it ought only to be used in the preparation of game stock or forcemeats.

The birds belonging to the remaining classes are prepared fresh; or, if it be thought necessary to let them hang for a few days, at least they should not be allowed to get high, more particularly the aquatic ones, because gaminess is, if anything, deleterious to the flavour of their flesh.

1828—PHEASANT (FAISAN)

When this bird is young, its legs are grey and the ventral end of the sternum is tender and flexible. But with pheasants, as with partridges, an infallible sign of youth may be discovered at the extremity of the last large feather in the wing. If this feather be pointed, the bird is young; if it be round, the reverse is the case.

1829—FAISAN A LA MODE D’ALCANTARA

This recipe comes from the famous Alcantara convent. History tells us that at the beginning of the Portuguese campaign in 1807 the convent’s library was pillaged by Junot’s soldiers, and its precious manuscripts were used in the making of cartridges.

Now it happened that an officer of the commissariat who was witnessing the event found, among a collection of recipes selected by the monks, the particular one now under our notice, which was applied only to partridges.

It struck him as interesting, and after trying it when he returned to France in the following year, he surrendered it to the Duchess of Abrantès, who noted it in her memoirs.

It represents, perhaps, the only good thing the French derived from that unfortunate campaign, and it would tend to prove that foie gras and truffles, which had been known for so long in Languedoc and Gascony, were also known in Estremadura, where, even at the present day, tolerably good truffles are to be found.

The procedure is as follows:—

Empty the pheasant from the front; bone its breast, and stuff it with fine ducks’ foies gras, mixed with quartered truffles, cooked in port wine.

Marinade the pheasant for three days in port wine, taking care that it be well covered therewith. This done, cook it “en casserole” (the original recipe says on the spit, but the saucepan is more suitable). Reduce the port wine of the marinade; add to it a dozen medium-sized truffles; set the pheasant on these truffles, and heat for a further ten minutes.

N.B.—This last part of the recipe may be advantageously replaced by the “à la Souvaroff” treatment—that is to say, having placed the pheasant and the truffles in a terrine, sprinkle them with the reduced port combined with slightly buttered game glaze; then hermetically seal down the lid of the terrine, and complete the cooking in the oven.

1830—FAISAN A L’ANGOUMOISE

Stuff the pheasant with a preparation consisting of two-thirds lb. of very fresh pork fat, rubbed through a sieve; four oz. of raw, peeled, and quartered truffles, and four oz. of fine chestnuts, cooked in consommé.

This preparation, which should be seasoned as for the ordinary truffling (No. 1956), ought to be quite cold when inserted into the pheasant.

Wrap the bird in slices of bacon; roast it gently for three-quarters of an hour, and take care to remove the slices of bacon seven or eight minutes before the cooking is completed, that the outside of the piece may be coloured.

Set on a long dish, and serve a Périgueux sauce at the same time.

1831—FAISAN A LA BOHÉMIENNE

Season a small foie gras with salt and paprika; stud it with raw quartered truffles, and poach it in Madeira for twenty minutes.

When it is cold, insert it into the pheasant, which should be high. Truss the bird, and cook it in butter in a saucepan or a cocotte for forty-five minutes. When about to serve, remove some of the butter used in cooking; sprinkle the pheasant with a glassful of burnt brandy, and add a few tablespoonfuls of reduced game gravy to the cooking-liquor.

Serve the pheasant in its cooking utensil.

1832—FAISAN EN CASSEROLE

Truss the pheasant as for an entrée, and poële it in butter only. This done, swill the saucepan with a few drops of brandy and a tablespoonful of game gravy.

Cover the utensil, and serve the dish burning hot.

1833—FAISAN EN COCOTTE

Proceed exactly as for pheasant “en casserole,” and, when the cooking is two-thirds done, surround it with a garnish of small onions cooked in butter; small, cooked mushroom-heads and olive-shaped truffles, the latter taking the place of the potatoes, which are one of the garnishing ingredients of fowls “en cocotte.”

1834—FAISAN EN CHARTREUSE

Parboil a fine, round-headed, quartered cabbage, and braise it as directed under No. 2100, adding thereto an old, oven-browned pheasant.

The chartreuse may be made with the pheasant kept whole or cut into pieces, but in any case, roasted or poëled, it should be very tender and only just cooked. The old pheasant put in with the cabbage only serves in imparting its flavour to the latter, but it must not and cannot be used for the chartreuse.

If the chartreuse be made with a cut-up pheasant, proceed as in the case of No. 1778. If whole, line an oval mould chartreuse-fashion; coat the inside with a portion of the braised cabbage, which should be slightly pressed; set the pheasant, breast undermost, in the mould; cover it with what remains of the cabbage, and then turn it out on a dish.

Send a sauceboat of excellent half-glaze, flavoured with pheasant fumet, separately.

1835—FAISAN A LA CHOUCROÛTE

Prepare the sauerkraut after No. 2097, and bear in mind that when it is specially prepared to accompany a pheasant, it is considerably improved by being braised with foie-gras fat.

Poële a very tender pheasant, and only just cook it. Lay the well-drained sauerkraut on a long dish; set the pheasant upon it, and surround it with a border consisting of rectangles of bacon, cooked in the sauerkraut.

Serve separately the poëling-liquor combined with a little game fumet, strained, and kept somewhat greasy.

1836—FAISAN A LA CRÈME

Cook the pheasant in butter, in a saucepan, with a medium-sized, quartered onion. When the cooking is three-parts done, sprinkle the bird with one-quarter pint of cream (sour if possible), or with ordinary cream, acidulated by means of a few drops of lemon juice.

Finish the cooking, basting the piece the while with cream and serve in the saucepan.

1837—FAISAN DEMIDOFF

Proceed exactly as directed under “Poulet à la Demidoff” (No. 1464).

1838—FAISAN A LA GEORGIENNE

Truss the pheasant as for an entrée, and put it into a saucepan with thirty fresh, halved, and well-peeled walnuts; the juice of two lbs. of grapes and of four oranges, pressed on a sieve; a wineglassful of Malmsey wine; a glassful of strong, green tea; one and one-half oz. of butter, and the necessary seasoning.

Poach the pheasant in this preparation for about thirty minutes, and colour it when it is almost cooked.

When about to serve, dish it and surround it with fresh walnuts.

Strain the cooking-liquor through a napkin; add thereto one-third pint of game Espagnole, and reduce to half.

Slightly coat the pheasant and its garnish with the sauce, and serve what remains of the latter separately.

1839—FAISAN GRILLÉ

For this preparation only young pheasants are used; although, provided they be tender, adult pheasants will answer the purpose. The procedure is precisely the same as that described under “Poulet Grillé” (No. 1636).

1840—FAISAN KOTSCHOUBEY

Cook the pheasant “en casserole,” and add to it, when it is almost done, two oz. of fine, raw truffle slices, and a little excellent game glaze, clear and well buttered.

Serve the following garnish separately:—Fry in butter four oz. of blanched, fresh breast of bacon, cut into dice. When the pieces are properly frizzled, add to them one lb. of freshly-cooked, well-drained, uncooled, and roughly-chopped Brussels sprouts. Add two oz. of fresh butter, a little pepper and grated nutmeg, and stew gently for one-half hour, that the garnish may just be ready in time for dishing.

1841—FAISAN A LA NORMANDE

Colour the pheasant in butter.

Meanwhile quarter, peel, mince, and slightly toss in butter six medium-sized apples.

Garnish the bottom of a terrine with a layer of these apples; set the browned pheasant thereon; surround it with what remains of the apples; sprinkle it with a few tablespoonfuls of fresh cream; cover the terrine, and cook in the oven for from twenty to twenty-eight minutes.

Serve the preparation in the terrine.

1842—FAISAN A LA PÉRIGUEUX

Stuff the pheasant with truffles, proceeding as for ordinary truffling (No. 1956). Poële it in Madeira; dish, and surround it with a border of quenelles consisting of truffled game forcemeat, moulded by means of a coffeespoon, and poached at the last moment.

Serve separately a Périgueux sauce combined with the reduced poëling-liquor, cleared of all grease.

1843—FAISAN A LA RÉGENCE

Poële the pheasant, and dish it on a low croûton, carved from a sandwich-loaf and fried in butter.

Surround it with small, decorated, round game quenelles; large, grooved, cooked mushrooms; and cocks’ kidneys; all three arranged alternately.

Serve separately a Salmis sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, and combined with the strained and reduced poëling-liquor, cleared of all grease.

1844—FAISAN A LA SAINTE-ALLIANCE

Bone two woodcocks, and put their livers and intestines aside.

Chop up their meat, together with a quarter of its weight of poached and cooled beef-marrow, and as much fresh, fat bacon; salt, pepper, and herbs. Add to this hash six oz. of raw, peeled, and quartered truffles, slightly cooked in butter.

Stuff the pheasant with this preparation; truss it; wrap it in slices of bacon, and keep it in the cool for twenty-four hours, that the aroma of the truffles may be concentrated.

Roast the pheasant on the spit, or, if in the oven, set it on a somewhat high stand in a baking-pan. Cut a large croûton from a sandwich-loaf, and fry it in clarified butter.

Pound the woodcocks’ livers and intestines with an equal weight of grated fresh fat bacon, the well-washed fillets of an anchovy, one oz. of butter, and one-half oz. of raw truffle. When this forcemeat is very smooth and all its ingredients thoroughly mixed, spread it over the fried croûtons.

When the pheasant is two-thirds cooked, set this coated croûton under the bird in such wise as to allow the juices escaping from the latter to drop upon the croûton. Complete the cooking, and dish the pheasant on the croûton. Surround with slices of bitter orange, and send the gravy separately.

When serving, accompany each piece of pheasant with a slice of orange and a small slice of the coated croûton.

1845—FAISAN SOUVAROFF

Cook six fair-sized truffles for five minutes in a glassful of Madeira and an equal quantity of light meat glaze. Withdraw the truffles and put them in the terrine in which the pheasant will complete its cooking.

Cut one-half lb. of foie gras into large dice; stiffen these in the truffles’ cooking-liquor, and stuff the pheasant therewith. Truss the latter; wrap it in slices of bacon, and two-thirds poële it.

This done, put it into the terrine containing the truffles; add the poëling-liquor, a small glassful of Madeira, and the same quantity of game gravy; hermetically close the terrine, and continue cooking for about a quarter of an hour.

Serve the preparation as it stands.

1846—SUPRÊMES, CÔTELETTES ET FILETS DE FAISAN

Pheasant Suprêmes, Cutlets and Fillets, allow of the same garnishes as those of fowl. But, whereas in the case of the latter, they are raised raw, and then poached, my advice in regard to pheasant is, that it should be previously roasted or poëled (keeping it just underdone) and that the suprêmes be only raised at the last moment.

By this means, a much better result is obtained than by the poaching of raw fillets; which, once cooked, are generally dry if they have to wait but a few seconds.

I also advise, when the garnish consists only of foie-gras collops and truffles (as in the case of the Rossini garnish), the sending separately of a small timbale of noodles with cream.

1847—SALMIS DE FAISAN

Salmis is perhaps the most delicate and most perfect of the game preparations bequeathed to us by old-fashioned cookery. If it be less highly esteemed nowadays, it is owing to the fact that this recipe has been literally spoiled by the haphazard fashion in which it has been applied right and left to game already cooked, and cooked again for the purpose.

But the Salmis given above may always be included in any menu, however sumptuous. It is applied more particularly to game of the 1st and 2nd classes, which should be somewhat high when treated.

The recipe I give may be applied to all the birds in the two classes referred to.

Roast the pheasant, keeping it moderately underdone. Quickly cut it into eight pieces, thus: two legs, two wings (separated from the pinions), and the breast cut into four lengthwise. Skin the pieces; trim them neatly, and keep them at a temperate heat in a covered vegetable-pan, with a few drops of burnt brandy and a little clear melted meat glaze.

Pound the carcass and the trimmings, and add to them half a bottleful of red wine (almost entirely reduced), three chopped shallots and a few mignonette pepper. Add one-quarter pint of good game Espagnole sauce; cook for ten minutes; rub through a sieve, pressing well the while, and then strain through a strainer.

Reduce this sauce to about one-third, and despumate it; strain it once more through a close strainer; add a small quantity of butter, and pour it over the pieces of pheasant, to which add a fine, sliced truffle and six grooved mushroom-heads.

I advise the discarding of the old method of dishing upon a cushion of bread fried in butter, as also of the triangular croûtons fried in butter and coated with gratin forcemeat, which usually accompanied the Salmis.

A speedy preparation and a simple method of dishing, which facilitate the service and allow of the Salmis being eaten hot, are the only necessary conditions. Moreover, the goodness of the preparation is such as to be independent of a fantastic method of dishing.

1848—SAUTÉ

Unless it be prepared with the greatest care, sautéd pheasant is always dry. I therefore do not recommend it; but, should it be necessary to make a dish of it, care should be observed in selecting a young, plump bird. It should be cut up like a fowl, cooked in butter on a moderate fire and kept somewhat underdone.

Dish it after the manner of a “poulet sauté” and cover it. Swill the sautépan and prepare a sauce after the recipe in common use.

This sauce must always be short, and it should be poured over the pheasant just before serving it.

1849—PÂTÉ

The preparation of hot, raised pheasant pies is the same as usual; the ingredients alone changing. The reader will, therefore, kindly refer to “Pâté1752), and duly note the following modifications:—

(1) Use a gratin forcemeat (No. 202) prepared from game livers and meat.

(2) Roast the pheasant, keeping it underdone, and mix the pieces of cooked mushroom with the sliced truffles.

(3) Accompany the pie by a Salmis sauce, prepared from the pheasant’s carcass and remains.

1850—MOUSSES ET MOUSSELINES DE FAISAN

As already stated in various parts of this work, the constituents and their quantities are the same for mousses and mousselines, and but for the basic ingredient, which is pheasant in this case, the procedure does not differ from that already described.

The base of the sauces served with these mousses and mousselines is a fumet made from the carcasses and remains.

1851—SOUFFLÉ DE FAISAN

Prepare a very light, mousseline forcemeat of pheasant.

Set in a buttered soufflé saucepan, and cook in a moderate oven.

Send a fine, half-glaze sauce, flavoured with game essence, at the same time.

Cold Pheasant

1852—FAISAN A LA BOHÉMIENNE

Proceed as for “Faisan à la Bohémienne” hot (No. 1831). Cook it in an earthenware terrine, and add thereto, at the same time as the prescribed brandy, enough succulent, savoury jelly to fill up the terrine.

Leave to cool for a day or two, and, when about to serve, remove the grease that has settled on the surface, by means of a spoon. Remove the last vestiges of grease by repeated scaldings; carefully wipe the terrine, and serve it incrusted in a block of ice.

1853—CHAUD-FROID DE FAISAN

Proceed exactly as for “Chaud-froid de Volaille” (No. 1689), and use a brown chaud-froid sauce, flavoured with pheasant fumet.

In regard to the decoration, dishing, &c., follow the recipe already referred to.

1854—CHAUD-FROID DE FAISAN A LA BULOZ

Poële a pheasant, keeping it underdone; raise its suprêmes, and cut these into thin collops.

With a fumet prepared from the carcass and the poëling-liquor, prepare a brown chaud-froid sauce. Coat the collops with this sauce, and also coat ten cooked and grooved mushrooms with a white chaud-froid sauce.

Clothe a dome-mould with clear aspic jelly, and deck it with truffles.

Set the collops of pheasant and the chaud-froid-coated truffles inside, alternating the two in so doing; fill up the mould with the same jelly, and let it set on ice. When about to serve, turn out after the manner of an aspic, on a low cushion of rice or semolina, lying on a round dish.

Border with neatly-cut croûtons of very clear aspic.

1855—FAISAN A LA CROIX DE BERNY

Roast the pheasant and keep it underdone. When it is quite cold, raise its fillets and leave the legs and the wings attached to the carcass.

By means of scissors, completely bone the carcass; garnish its inside with a truffled foie-gras Parfait, and cover it with a thin coat of foie-gras Mousse.

Replace the fillets upon this Mousse, after having sliced them, and fill any gaps that may exist between the slices with some of the same Mousse: thus reconstructing the bird.

Let the Mousse set thoroughly, and glaze with aspic jelly.

Meanwhile, coat eight boned, stuffed, poached and cold larks with brown chaud-froid sauce. Decorate them with pieces of truffle and salted tongue, and glaze them with aspic jelly.

Dish the pheasant on a low cushion; surround it with the larks, and garnish the gaps between the latter with chopped and very clear aspic.

1856—FAISAN EN DAUBE

Proceed as for “Terrine de Poularde à la gelée” (No. 1701), making due allowance, in the cooking, for the difference between the sizes of the two birds.

1857—CÔTELETTES DE FAISAN

Proceed as for “Côtelettes froides de Volaille.”

1858—GALANTINE DE FAISAN

See “Galantine de Volaille” (No. 1708).

1859—MOUSSE DE FAISAN

Prepare the Mousse according to the usual procedure, and mould it after the manner of “Mousse de Volaille” (No. 1711).

1860—PAIN DE FAISAN EN BELLE-VUE

The procedure follows that of No. 1709, but for the difference in the basic ingredient, which in this case is pheasant.

1861—SUPRÊMES DE FAISAN CHÂTELAINE

Raise the suprêmes and prepare them exactly like the suprêmes of fowl in “Chaud-froid Félix Faure” (No. 1691). Poach them; cool them, and cut them into medallions as explained.

Cover half of these medallions with chicken Mousse, and the other half with pheasant Mousse. Keep on ice for some time that the Mousse may set. This done, coat the first lot with brown chaud-froid sauce and the second lot with white chaud-froid sauce. Deck each medallion with small pieces of truffle. Set them in a deep, square dish (alternating the two colours), and cover with very clear, succulent aspic jelly. Leave to set and serve on a block of ice.

1862—SUPRÊMES DE FAISAN GASTRONOME

Poële the pheasant in Madeira and let it cool. Raise the fillets; cut them into thin, regular slices; coat them with brown chaud-froid sauce, and decorate according to fancy. With the trimmings and the meat of the legs, prepare a pheasant Mousse after the manner described under No. 1711, and mould it in a Parfait mould which should have the depth of the chaud-froid-coated slices.

When this Mousse has set, turn it out on a dish and place the slices all round, standing them upright and letting them lean one against the other.

Surround with a crown of fine, fair-sized, peeled truffles, cooked in Champagne, and set one of them on the top of the Mousse, fixing it there by means of a hatelet.

Border the dish with fine croûtons of aspic.

1863—TERRINE DE FAISAN

Prepare it after the manner of the “Terrine de Lièvre” (No. 1825), and take care to make due allowance, in the cooking, for the difference, in the matter of tenderness, between the two meats. But the explanations already given on this subject ought to suffice for ascertaining whether or not the patty have cooked sufficiently.

PARTRIDGE (PERDRIX ET PERDREAUX)

Three kinds of partridges are used in Cookery:—the Grey Partridge, which is commonest in flat country, and which is also the most highly esteemed; the Red Partridge, which is to be found in hilly and wooded country; and the Bartavelle (perdix vertevella), which is a somewhat larger species than the two former. To these three kinds may be added the American Colin (Ortix Virginianus), an excellent bird sometimes seen in English markets.

All the recipes given for pheasants may be applied to partridge, and below, I shall only give those which are proper to the latter.

1864—PERDREAU A LA BOURGUIGNONNE

Truss the partridge as for an entrée; three-parts poële it, and place it in a terrine with six small glazed onions and as many small, cooked mushroom heads. Swill the saucepan with a glassful of red wine; reduce it two-thirds, and add a tablespoonful of game half-glaze. Strain; clear of grease; pour this sauce over the partridge, and complete the latter’s cooking for seven or eight minutes.

1865—PERDREAU EN DEMI-DEUIL

Bone the breast and fill the partridge with truffled partridge forcemeat, prepared with panada or butter. Between the skin and the fillets, slip a few slices of very black truffle; truss as for an entrée; wrap the piece in muslin, and poach it for thirty minutes in a game fumet.

When about to serve, remove the muslin; take the string off, and dish the partridge. Reduce the fumet in which the partridge has poached; strain it; add thereto a liqueur-glassful of burnt liqueur-brandy, and send this reduced fumet separately.

1866—PERDREAU EN ESTOUFFADE

Brown the partridge in the oven and set in a terrine just large enough to hold it, with a tablespoonful of Matignon (No. 227) and one crushed juniper berry, on top and beneath.

Add one-half oz. of butter, a liqueur-glassful of burnt brandy, and twice that amount of game fumet. Close the terrine; seal down the lid with a strip of paste; bake in a hot oven for twenty-five minutes and serve the dish as it stands.

1867—PERDREAU A LA LAUTREC

Select a young partridge; open its back; slightly flatten it with a butcher’s beater; pierce it through with a skewer; season it with salt, pepper and melted butter, and gently grill.

At the same time grill six small mushroom-heads.

Dish the partridge; on either side of it set the mushrooms, each of which should be garnished with a coffeespoonful of Maître-d’hôtel butter; surround the mushrooms with a thread of melted meat glaze and sprinkle the partridge with a few drops of lemon juice.

1868—PERDREAU LADY CLIFFORD

Cook the partridge in butter in a saucepan. When it is three-parts done, surround it with two oz. of fine slices of raw truffle; add a liqueur-glassful of burnt brandy and one tablespoonful of clear melted meat glaze.

Serve a Soubise sauce at the same time and separately.

1869—PERDREAU AUX CHOUX

Prepare a garnish of braised cabbages as explained under No. 2100, and add thereto an old partridge, browned in the oven or on the spit. Meanwhile, roast or poële a very tender young partridge and keep it underdone.

Dish the cabbages, which should be well drained; set the young partridge upon them, and surround with small rectangles of very lean bacon, cooked with the cabbages, and a thread of half-glaze sauce, flavoured with game fumet.

N.B.—This dish may be given a more decorative appearance by means of a sort of Chartreuse, which is prepared as follows:—Line a large bowl or a buttered, round-bottomed timbale with roundels of sausages; roundels of carrots arranged in superposed rows, separated by a line of French beans or peas; and small rectangles of bacon, laid side by side.

Line the inside of the timbale with a thick layer of cabbages, and put the young partridge, breast undermost, in the middle (the partridge may also be carved up). Cover the cabbages and press the latter with a fork; turn the timbale out on a dish and tilt the latter that all the grease may fall before withdrawing the timbale, which answers the purpose of a mould.

Surround with a thread of half-glaze sauce, flavoured with game fumet.

1870—CRÉPINETTES

After substituting the meat of a young partridge, cleared of all tendons, for the veal sweetbreads, and fresh bacon for calf’s udder, proceed exactly as directed (as regards quantities and other particulars) under “Crépinettes de ris de Veau” (No. 1222), taking care to add three oz. of chopped truffles per lb. of the forcemeat.

Divide up the forcemeat into portions one and one-half oz. to two oz. in weight; wrap them in pig’s caul; roll them first in melted butter and then in bread-crumbs, and grill them gently.

The usual accompaniment to these crépinettes is a light chestnut or lentil purée.

1871—EPIGRAMMES DE PERDREAU

Raise the young partridge’s fillets, leaving the wing-bone attached to the carcass, and put them aside. From the minion fillets and the meat of the legs, prepare a mousseline forcemeat; mould the latter in very small buttered cutlet moulds, and set to poach.

Roll the fillets in melted butter and bread-crumbs, and grill them gently. Dip the cutlets in beaten egg; roll them in finely-chopped truffles; press upon the latter with the flat of a knife, that they may combine with the egg; adjust the shape of the cutlets, and toss them in butter.

Dish in the form of a circle, alternating the fillets and the cutlets; pour in their midst a cullis prepared from the partridge’s carcasses, and serve a chestnut purée separately.

1872—TIMBALE DE PERDREAU DIANE

Line a liberally-buttered, shallow mould with crescents of truffle arranged in superposed rows, and then completely cover the bottom and sides of the mould with a layer, two-thirds in. thick, of raw partridge forcemeat.

Place the mould in the front of the oven that the forcemeat may be poached; and then spread another layer of gratin forcemeat of game.

Fill the utensil with a garnish of small quenelles consisting of truffled partridge forcemeat, mushrooms and slices of truffles, cohered with a reduced Madeira sauce. Cover the garnish with a small coat of forcemeat, and poach in the bain-marie for from thirty to thirty-five minutes.

When about to serve, turn out on a dish, and deck the timbale with a crown of partridges’ suprêmes, raised from birds fresh from the spit or the oven. Surround the base of the timbale with a thread of Diane sauce, and send a sauceboat of the latter separately.

1873—PERDREAUX FROIDS

The various recipes given for cold pheasant also suit cold partridge; it is only necessary therefore to replace the word “pheasant” by “partridge” in the formulæ referred to.

1874—WOODCOCK AND SNIPE (BÉCASSE ET BÉCASSINES

If grouse, which can only be thoroughly appreciated in its native country, were extinct, woodcock would be the leading feathered game. But the latter have this advantage over the former, namely: that their fumet is not so fugitive, and that they may be kept much longer. Woodcock does not yield its full quality unless it be moderately high.

1875—BÉCASSE DE CARÊME

Sprinkle the woodcock with a few drops of oil, and roast it, keeping it underdone. As soon as it is cooked, divide it into two lengthwise, and cut each half of the breast into two collops. Mix half a coffeespoonful of French mustard in a small vegetable-pan, with a few drops of lemon juice. Roll the pieces of woodcock in this mustard, and keep them hot.

Chop up the carcass and the intestines; sprinkle with a glassful of burnt liqueur brandy; reduce; add a tablespoonful of game fumet, and cook for five minutes.

Strain through a strainer, pressing on the pieces of woodcock in so doing, and rock the saucepan, that the pieces may be coated with the cullis. Dish in a hot timbale, and, upon the pieces, set the woodcock’s head.

N.B.—Bécasse à la fine Champagne is prepared in the same way, but without mustard. Cut it into six pieces: wings, legs and two halves of the breast, and put these pieces into a round cocotte. Swill the saucepan with burnt liqueur brandy; add the chopped intestines, mixed with the juices of the pressed carcass; add a tablespoonful of fumet, a little lemon juice, and a little cayenne, and pour this cullis (heated but not boiled) over the pieces.

Bécasse à la Riche is prepared in the same way, but:—(1) the pieces are dished on a croûton of fried bread, coated with gratin forcemeat of game; (2) the sauce is thickened with a little foie-gras purée and one oz. of butter, and then strained over the pieces through a coarse strainer, during which process the operator should press with a spoon or a whisk.

1876—BÉCASSE A LA FAVART

Proceed as for “Caneton Rouennais1764), and remember to add the woodcock’s intestines to the forcemeat.

When the carcass is garnished, set the sliced suprêmes on the forcemeat, with a row of sliced truffles in the middle. The forcemeat should poach for about twenty minutes.

Serve at the same time a half-glaze sauce, flavoured with woodcock fumet.

1877—SALMIS DE BÉCASSE

Under the article “Pheasant,” I gave the generic recipe for Salmis, which may be applied to all feathered game. In regard to the Woodcock Salmis, the operator should remember to add the bird’s intestines to the sauce, and to keep the meat rather under- than overdone.

1878—BÉCASSE SOUVAROFF

Proceed exactly as for “Faisan à la Souvaroff” (No. 1845), after making due allowance for the size of the bird in regard to the quantity of truffles and foie gras.

1879—MOUSSES ET MOUSSELINES DE BÉCASSE

Proceed as indicated in No. 1850.

1880—TIMBALE DE BÉCASSE METTERNICH

Prepare a somewhat shallow, decorated timbale crust.

Roast the woodcocks and keep them underdone.

Raise the suprêmes and put them in the timbale, separating them by collops of fresh foie gras, sautéd at the last moment.

Pound the remains of the woodcocks, including their carcasses; thin the purée with truffle essence; rub it through a sieve, pressing heavily the while, and then rub it through tammy.

Heat the cullis thus obtained, without letting it boil; finish it with a little lemon juice, liqueur-brandy and butter, and pour it into the timbale over the pieces of woodcock and the foie gras collops.

Dish the timbale on a folded napkin, lying on a round dish.

1881—TIMBALE DE BÉCASSE NESSELRODE

Poële the woodcocks and keep them underdone.

As soon as they are cooked, raise their fillets and put these aside.

Bone the remains, and pound the meat thus obtained, together with a quarter of its weight of raw foie gras.

Rub through a sieve, and add an equal weight of game forcemeat, prepared with panada and butter. Add the chopped carcasses and a glassful of liqueur brandy to the poëling-liquor; cook for a few minutes; strain, and in this stock poach five oz. of olive-shaped truffles (for an ordinary timbale).

Line a buttered Charlotte-mould with short paste; cover its bottom and sides with the prepared forcemeat, and against this forcemeat set the woodcock’s suprêmes, cut into collops. Garnish the centre with the truffles, and cover these with a few tablespoonfuls of Espagnole, reduced with some of the fumet. Close the timbale with a layer of paste, as explained in the various preceding timbale recipes, and bake in a good, moderate oven for about forty-five minutes.

When about to serve, turn out the timbale on a dish; pour into the former some half-glaze sauce combined with what remains of the fumet, and send a sauceboat of the same sauce separately.

N.B.—This “Timbale Nesselrode” may be prepared after the same recipe, from Pheasant, Partridge, Woodcock or Hazel-Hen, but the name of the selected bird should, of course, appear on the menu.

1882—BÉCASSES ET BÉCASSINES FROIDES

All the recipes given for cold pheasant and partridge may be applied to woodcocks and snipes.

1883—QUAILS

Quails should always be chosen plump, and their fat should be white and very firm. Besides the spit, which should always be used in preference to the oven for roasting, they allow of two other methods of cooking: they may be cooked in butter, in a saucepan; or they may be poached in excellent strong and gelatinous veal stock.

This last mode of procedure greatly enhances the quail’s quality and is frequently used.

1884—CAILLES EN CASSEROLE

Cook them in butter, in the saucepan in which they will be served.

Swill with a few drops of brandy; add a little game fumet; cover, and serve very hot.

1885—CAILLES AUX CERISES

For four quails:—Truss them as for an entrée and cook them with butter in a saucepan. Swill with a little brandy and a glass of port, in which a piece of orange rind should have soaked.

Add three tablespoonfuls of excellent veal stock, three tablespoonfuls of red-currant jelly and about forty cherries, previously poached in a boiling syrup of about 18° (Saccharometer) and cooled in the syrup.

Drain them before adding them to the quail, and, if the sauce be too insipid, sharpen it with a few drops of lemon juice.

1886—CAILLES A LA DAUPHINE

Wrap each quail in a buttered vine-leaf and a thin, square slice of bacon, and roast them for ten minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare a well-seasoned purée of fresh peas with lettuce, and reduce it to a somewhat stiff consistence.

Line the bottom and sides of a deep dish with very thin slices of ham; pour the purée into it; smooth the surface, and half-plunge the quails into this purée.

Place in the oven for ten minutes, and this done, send the dish to the table immediately.

1887—CAILLES FIGARO

Insert a piece of truffle into each quail, and wrap them each in a piece of gut together with a bit of pale veal glaze, the size of a pigeon’s egg. String the pieces of gut at two points one in. from either extremity of the quails, that the envelope may not burst while cooking. Poach the quails in good veal stock, that they may not be washed as they would be if the gut happened to burst in a poaching-liquor consisting of salted water.

Serve the quails as they leave their cooking-liquor.

1888—CAILLES A LA GRECQUE

Cook the quails in a saucepan, and set them in a timbale, half-garnished with “Riz à la Grecque.” Swill the saucepan with a few tablespoonfuls of game fumet, and pour this swilling-liquor over the quails, without clearing it of grease.

1889—CAILLES JULIETTE

Divide the quails into two along the back and do not separate the two halves; season them; sprinkle them with melted butter and finely-chopped truffle. Wrap each quail in a piece of pig’s caul; sprinkle again with melted butter and fine raspings, and grill gently.

Dish the quails and sprinkle them with a few drops of verjuice.

1890—CAILLES JUDIC

Poële the quails.

Dish them in the form of a crown, each on a small, braised lettuce, with a cock’s kidney on either side and a truffle on top. Coat with a half-glaze sauce prepared with quail fumet.

1891—CAILLES LUCULLUS

Cook the quails in butter. Dish them in a circle on a round dish, each on an oval or rectangular fried croûton, and between each set a fine truffle cooked in Champagne and chicken glaze.

1892—CAILLES A LA NORMANDE

Peel, mince and toss some apples in butter, as explained under “Faisan à la Normande.” Allow half an apple per quail. Garnish the bottom of a cocotte with some of these apples; upon them set the quails, browned in butter; add what remains of the apples; sprinkle with a few tablespoonfuls of cream, and complete the cooking in the oven.

1893—CAILLES AUX PETITS POIS A LA ROMAINE

Cook the quails in butter. At the same time, fry in butter one small new onion and two-thirds oz. of raw, chopped ham, for each quail. Add some peas, shelled at the last moment, and cook without any moistening whatsoever.

The moisture contained in the ham and peas is sufficient for the cooking. The peas should be ready simultaneously with the quails.

Serve the quails and the peas separately, in little, closed timbales. The diner mixes them.

1894—CAILLES AUX RAISINS

Cook the quails in butter. Swill the utensil with a few drops of dry, white wine and a little verjuice; add half a tablespoonful of strong game fumet for each quail; and dish in a very hot cocotte with about one oz. of fresh peeled grapes for each quail.

1895—CAILLES RICHELIEU

Select some fresh and plump quails; remove their gizzards; season them inside with a grain of salt and a few drops of brandy; insert a piece of raw truffle into each bird, and truss them as for an entrée. Set them in a sautépan, snugly pressed one against the other, and season them with salt. Cover them with a coarse julienne of carrots, onions and celery, cooked in butter, and prepared as far as possible from new vegetables.

Moisten, just enough to cover, with some succulent amber-coloured veal stock, gelatinous and fine; cover, boil, and then poach gently for twelve minutes.

This done, add a julienne of truffles (raw if possible) which should equal only half of the vegetable julienne, and poach for a further two minutes, that the truffles may cook and the quails be done.

Dish in a timbale, clear of grease, and pour the cooking-liquor and the julienne over the quails.

Pilaff rice is often served with quails prepared in this way.

1896—RIZOTTO DE CAILLES

Into each quail insert a piece of fresh, pounded pork fat, the size of a hazel nut, combined with an equal quantity of white truffle; and cook them in a saucepan with butter.

Add their fat to a previously-prepared Rizotto. Dish this rizotto in a timbale, and hollow it out so as to make a nest for the quails.

Sprinkle the latter with the saucepan-swillings, consisting of game fumet; and send the dish to the table at once.

1897—CAILLES SOUS LA CENDRE

Stuff the quails with a little smooth truffled game forcemeat, and wrap them each in a buttered vine-leaf, followed by a slice of bacon, and finally by two sheets of buttered paper.

Place them on the hearth-stone; cover them with very hot cinders, and cook thus for thirty-five minutes, taking care to renew the hot cinders from time to time.

When about to serve them, remove the outside covering of paper which is charred, but leave the other coverings.

N.B.—A log fire is essential for this recipe.

1898—CAILLES SOUVAROFF

Prepare these as described under “Faisan à la Souvaroff” (No. 1845).

1899—CAILLES A LA TURQUE

Truss the quails as for an entrée; brown them in butter, and complete their cooking in pilaff rice, combined with a quarter of its weight of cooked and chopped egg-plant pulp.

Set the rice in a pyramid on a dish; place the quails all round (upright against the rice), and surround with a thread of quail fumet.

1900—TIMBALE DE CAILLES ALEXANDRA

Coat a well-buttered timbale mould with patty paste, and line it with slices of bacon so as to completely cover the paste. The slices of bacon in this case are there to prevent the moistening of the timbale from reaching the paste. Insert a piece of foie gras into each quail; stiffen them in butter, and set them against the sides of the timbale in successive tiers.

Completely garnish the middle with small, peeled truffles; add one-quarter pint of excellent stock with Madeira (per six quails), and a few bits of bay-leaf. Close the timbale with a layer of paste and cook in a moderately hot oven for one and one-quarter hours.

Turn out upon withdrawing from the oven, and serve the dish as it stands.

N.B.—(1) The shell of paste merely serves to hold in the quails and their garnish, and ought not to be eaten.

(2) The same timbale may be prepared with ortolans, except that these need only forty-five minutes’ cooking.

Cold Quails

1901—CHAUD-FROID DE CAILLES EN BELLE-VUE

The quails should be boned for a chaud-froid, and stuffed with gratin forcemeat of game with a rod of foie gras and another of truffle set in the middle. This done, reshape them; wrap them each in a square of muslin; poach them for twenty minutes in an excellent veal stock, and let them cool therein.

When they are quite cold, dry them; and dip them, so as to veneer them all over, in a good brown chaud-froid sauce (No. 34), prepared with quail fumet. Decorate the breast of each quail elegantly with bits of truffle and poached white of egg; sprinkle with cold melted savoury jelly, so as to fix the decoration; and leave to set.

Remove the excess of sauce from around the quails; set them in a square, deep dish; cover them with very good limpid savoury jelly, and place them in a refrigerator until they are required.

1902—CAILLES EN CAISSES

Prepare the quails as for a chaud-froid, as above; but set each in an oval, pleated case of delicate porcelain or paper. Border with a thin thread of chopped jelly, and on each quail set a head, the eyes of which may be imitated by means of a ring of white of egg and a central spot of truffle.

1903—CAILLES GLACÉES AU GRANITÉ

I shall only give a few recipes of this class; for the series is a long one, and I recommend them more particularly on account of their quaintness. These dishes, wherein a sugary and glazed preparation is introduced, are highly esteemed in summer; but they really belong to the culinary repertory of hot countries.

1904—CAILLES GLACÉES CERISETTE.

Prepare the quails as for an entrée and poach them for 12 minutes in a strong veal stock, with Champagne. This done, put them each into a small, oval mould; fill up these moulds with cooking-liquor, cleared of all grease and strained, and leave them to set on ice.

This preliminary procedure applies to all quail dishes in this series.

Now prepare a Granité with cherry juice (see No. 2930).

Set this Granité in a pyramid on a dish incrusted in ice. Turn out the quails and place them round the Granité; fill up the gaps between them with small heaps of stoned cherries, poached in syrup for a few minutes and quite cold.

1905—CAILLES GLACÉES CARMEN.

Prepare the quails as above, and place them round a rock of Granité made from pomegranates.

1906—CAILLES GLACÉES MARYLAND.

Set them round a rock of Granité made with pineapple.

1907—CAILLES GLACÉES REINE AMELIE.

Prepare the quails in the usual way, and lay them round a rock of Granité prepared with tomatoes.

1908—CAILLES GLACÉES

Poach the quails in stock combined with Romanée wine, and set them round a rock of Granité made with verjuice.

1909—FILETS DE CAILLES AUX POMMES D’OR.

Raise the quails’

suprêmes

, after having poached and cooled them. Set these

suprêmes

in the rinds of small oranges or tangerines, and fill up the rinds with jelly prepared with Port. When about to serve, deck each orange or tangerine, by means of the piping-bag, with a small ornament of Granité, prepared with the juice of the fruit used.

1910—CAILLES CECILIA

Roast the quails, keeping them juicy, and leave them to cool.

This done, raise their fillets and skin these; then, with the remains of the meat and an equal quantity of foie gras, prepare a purée.

Set each fillet of quail on a similarly-shaped slice of liver, causing it to adhere by means of the prepared purée, and coat with brown chaud-froid sauce.

When the sauce has quite set, place these fillets in an even border-mould, clothed with very limpid aspic, and decorated with truffles. Fill up the mould with the same aspic jelly, and let the latter set.

When about to serve, turn out on a napkin, after the manner of an aspic.

1911—CAILLES AU CHÂTEAU-YQUEM

Prepare the quails like those “à la Richelieu” (No. 1895). After having added the julienne, sprinkle them with Château-Yquem; cover; reduce, and complete their cooking as directed.

When they are poached, transfer them to another saucepan; add ten slices of truffle per quail; strain their cooking-liquor, through muslin, over them, and poach them for a further two minutes.

This done, place the quails in a timbale; cover them with the cooking-liquor cleared of all grease; leave it to set, and serve on a block of ice.

1912—MANDARINES DE CAILLES

Slice the tangerine rinds at their stem-ends with an even round cutter; remove the sections; put them to dry, and skin them raw.

Three-parts garnish the tangerine rinds with a quail Mousse, combined with foie gras, cut into dice; set a roasted quail’s fillet on the Mousse; coat with brown chaud-froid sauce, and cover with the sections of tangerine, glazed with aspic jelly. Keep in the cool for some time and dish on a napkin.

1913—CAILLES NILLSON

Proceed as for “Cailles au Château-Yquem,” and set each quail in a small, silver cassolette. Cover with the cooking-liquor, cleared of grease and strained, and surround each quail with four small very white cocks’ kidneys.

1914—CAILLES RICHELIEU FROIDES

Prepare these like the “Hot Cailles Richelieu”; place them in a square, deep dish; cover with the cooking-liquor and the garnish and let them cool until the cooking-liquor sets. Then clear the dish of all grease and serve on a block of ice.

1915—TIMBALE DE CAILLES TZARINE

Line a round pie-dish with ordinary paste, and coat it inside with slices of bacon. In the middle, place a fresh foie gras seasoned with salt, pepper and allspice, and surround it with quails, stuffed with quarters of truffles, set upright with their breasts against the bacon.

Fill up the timbale with whole raw and peeled truffles; cover with a round slice of bacon; close the timbale with a layer of paste sealed down round the edges; make a slit in the top, and bake in a hot oven for one and one-quarter hours.

When withdrawing the timbale from the oven, pour into it some veal stock flavoured with Madeira, and let it be sufficiently gelatinous to set like a jelly.

Keep the timbale in the cool for one or two days before serving it.

1916—CAILLES A LA VENDANGEUSE

Roast the quails; let them cool, and set them, each in a little dosser of dry paste, resting against a cushion lying on a round dish. On top of the cushion plant a leafy vine-shoot bearing grapes. Surround the quails with white and black grapes (peeled and pipped) and cover with a slightly gelatinous aspic jelly, prepared with liqueur brandy.

1917—MOUSSES DE CAILLES

See the various remarks made concerning this subject, under Pheasant, Partridge and Woodcock.

1918—LAND RAIL, ROI DE CAILLES OU RÂLE DE GENÊTS

The Land Rail, which must not be confused with the Water Rail, is most often served roasted, but all the quail recipes, hot or cold (except those in which Granité forms an accompaniment) may be applied to it.

1919—HAZEL-HENS 1920—BLACK GAME

1921—PRAIRIE-HENS 1922—PTARMIGAN

1923—GROUSE 1924—GANGAS

These birds, one or two of which, such as grouse and the hazel-hen, are of incomparable delicacy and high culinary value, are mostly served roasted.

Mousses, Mousselines and Salmis are also prepared from them, after the directions already given. But I must remind the reader that when they serve in the preparation of a salmis, their skins and legs, which are bitter, must be discarded.

All these birds must be treated while still very fresh.

1925—GRIVES ET MERLES DE CORSE (Thrushes and Corsican Blackbirds)

The greater part of the quail recipes, more particularly the “en casserole” and “sous la cendre” ones, may be applied to these excellent birds.

The two following recipes are proper to them.

1926—GRIVES OU MERLES A LA BONNE-FEMME

Cook the birds in butter, with one oz. of very small dice of salted breast of bacon to each bird. Put them into a hot cocotte with two-thirds oz. of butter per bird; heat; add some square croûtons fried in butter; sprinkle with the saucepan-swillings, which should be a few drops of brandy; cover, and serve very hot immediately.

1927—GRIVES OU MERLES A LA LIÉGEOISE

Cook the birds in butter on the stove, in an uncovered earthenware saucepan. When they are nearly done, sprinkle them with two finely-chopped juniper berries per bird; add some round croûtons of bread-crumb fried in butter; cover, and serve very hot.

This procedure particularly suits thrushes, more especially when these come from the Ardennes.

1928—GRIVES ET MERLES FROIDS

The various, cold preparations of quails, except those comprising a Granité, may be applied to thrushes.

Alouettes ou Mauviettes (Larks)

These birds are generally served to the number of two or three for each person.

1929—MAUVIETTES A LA BONNE-FEMME

Proceed exactly as directed for the thrushes.

1930—MAUVIETTES A LA MÈRE MARIANNE

Slice some peeled and cored russet apples, and three-parts cook them in butter. Spread this stew in thick layers on a buttered dish.

Simply stiffen the seasoned larks in nut-brown butter, and place them upon the stewed apples, pressing them slightly into the latter. Sprinkle with very fine bread-crumbs and melted butter, and set to glaze in the oven or at the Salamander, just long enough to complete the cooking of the larks.

1931—ALOUETTES DU PÈRE PHILIPPE

Clean some fine, medium-sized potatoes, allowing one to each lark; and cut a cover from each, which thin down until it is only one-sixth inch thick. With a root-spoon, hollow out the potatoes in such wise as to allow of their each enclosing a lark.

Stiffen the larks in butter, and add thereto some salted breast of bacon, cut into small dice and blanched, and in the proportion of one-third oz. per lark. Place a lark in each potato, together with a few bacon dice and some of the cooking-fat; return cover of each potato to its place; fix it there by means of cotton, and wrap each potato in oiled paper.

Lay them on the hearth, cover them with hot cinders, and cook for about forty minutes, taking care to renew the cinders from time to time.

1932—MAUVIETTES FROIDES

When cold, larks may be prepared in plain chaud-froid fashion, in cases, in Belle-vue, in Aspic, as Mousses, &c., in pursuance of the directions given under these various recipes.

1933—ORTOLANS

Serve ortolans as plainly as possible; but the best method of preparing them is roasting. However, for the sake of variety, they may be prepared as follows:—

1934—SYLPHIDES D’ORTOLANS

Butter some very small porcelain or silver cassolettes, and garnish them half-full with mousseline forcemeat of ortolans prepared with truffle essence.

Set these cassolettes in the front of the oven, that the forcemeat may poach. Cook in butter, for three minutes only, as many ortolans as there are garnished cassolettes, and proceed so as to have them just ready when the forcemeat is poached.

Place an ortolan in each cassolette, and sprinkle them with nut-brown butter, combined with a little pale melted glaze and pineapple juice.

1935—BECS-FIGUES ET BEGUINETTES (Fig Peckers)

These birds are not met with in English markets; it is therefore useless to give the recipes concerning them. I will only say that they may be prepared like the larks.

1936—CANARDS SAUVAGES (Wild Duck)

1937—SARCELLES (Teal)

1938—PILETS (Pintails and Widgeons)

Birds of this class are mostly served roasted.

They may, however, be used in preparing excellent Salmis, which may be made after “Salmis de Faisan” (No. 1847) or after “Salmis à la Rouennaise” (No. 1763).

They may also be prepared after all the recipes of “Caneton à la Rouennaise.”

1939—PLUVIERS DORÉS (Golden Plover)

1940—VANNEAUX (Lapwings)

1941—CHEVALIERS DIVERS (Various Sandpipers)

These various birds are generally served roasted.

They may also be served “en Salmis,” but in that case the skin must be discarded in the preparation of the cullis.

They only appear on very ordinary menus, and could not be served at an important dinner.