Part 2 — CHAPTER XVI POULTRY (VOLAILLE) (continued 2)

With the same fat, fry in a frying-pan two-thirds lb. of potatoes cut to the shape of corks and divided into roundels; put these round the chicken, and set to cook in the oven, under cover.

When about to serve, sprinkle the fowl with a few tablespoonfuls of veal gravy.

Serve the preparation in the cocotte.

1633—POULET DE GRAINS EN CASSEROLE

Poële the chicken with butter in an earthenware saucepan, and baste it often the while. When about to serve, clear of all grease, and add a tablespoonful of veal gravy.

This chicken is served plain, without any garnish.

1634—POULET DE GRAINS EN COCOTTE

Brown the chicken in butter, in a cocotte, and under cover.

When it is half-done, surround it with two oz. of frizzled pieces of fresh or salted pork cut in dice, twelve small onions partly cooked in butter, and twenty small potatoes, the size and shape of olives.

Complete the cooking of the whole together, and, when about to serve, sprinkle with a little veal gravy.

1635—POULET DE GRAINS CLAMART

Brown the chicken in butter; half-cook it, and put it in a cocotte with one-half pint of half-cooked peas à la Française (No. 2193), the cooking-liquor of which should be very short. Complete the cooking of the whole, together, and serve the preparation as it stands, without cohering the peas.

1636—POULET DE GRAINS GRILLÉ DIABLE

Truss the chicken as for an entrée; split it open lengthwise along the middle of the back; flatten it with a butcher’s beater, and remove as many bones as possible. Season it; sprinkle it with melted butter, and half-cook it in the oven.

This done, coat it thoroughly with mustard strengthened by means of cayenne; sprinkle copiously with bread-crumbs; press upon the latter with the flat of a knife, that they may adhere to the mustard; sprinkle a little melted butter over the bird, and complete the latter’s cooking gently on the grill.

Set on a round dish, bordered with thin slices of lemon, and serve a Devilled Sauce Escoffier separately.

1637—POULET DE GRAINS, GRILLÉ A L’ANGLAISE (Spatchcock)

Split the chicken open, laterally, proceeding from the extremity of the belly to the wing-joints. Open it without separating the two halves, flatten it so as to break the joints and the bones, and remove the fragments of the latter with great care.

Fix the wings by means of a skewer; sprinkle the chicken with melted butter, season it, and half-cook it in the oven.

This done, sprinkle it with bread-crumbs and melted butter, and complete its cooking on the grill. Set it on a round dish, bordered with gherkins, and serve it as it stands.

1638—POULET DE GRAINS AUX FONDS D’ARTICHAUTS

Brown the chicken in butter, and put it in a cocotte with five fair-sized artichoke-bottoms, sliced while raw, and tossed in butter.

Complete its cooking gently in the oven, and, when about to serve, add a tablespoonful of veal gravy and a few drops of lemon juice.

1639—POULET DE GRAINS A L’HOTELIERE

Bone the chicken’s breast; stuff it with one-half lb. of good sausage-meat, and truss it as for an entrée. Brown it with butter in an earthenware saucepan, and put it in the oven.

When it is two-thirds done, add to it four oz. of quartered mushrooms, sautéd in butter, complete its cooking, and, when about to serve, finish it with three tablespoonfuls of veal gravy.

1640—POULET DE GRAINS A LA KATOFF

Split the chicken open along the back, and half-cook it in the oven as in No. 1636. This done, complete its cooking on the grill.

Meanwhile, mould on a round, buttered dish a sort of galette of Duchesse potatoes (No. 2212), one inch thick. Gild, and colour in the oven.

Dish the grilled chicken on this galette, and surround the latter with a thread of strong veal gravy.

1641—POULET DE GRAINS A LA LIMOUSINE

Stuff the chicken with one-half lb. of good sausage-meat, combined with two oz. of chopped mushrooms fried in butter. Put the chicken in a cocotte with one oz. of butter and six rectangles of blanched breast of bacon, and cook gently in the oven.

When about to serve, add two or three tablespoonfuls of veal gravy.

Send, separately, six fine chestnuts cooked in consommé.

1642—POULET DE GRAINS MASCOTTE

Brown the chicken in butter, and cook it “en casserole” with four oz. of potatoes the size and shape of olives and tossed in butter.

When the chicken is almost cooked, put it in a cocotte with the potatoes all round, two tablespoonfuls of veal gravy, and two oz. of sliced truffles set upon it.

Cover the cocotte; put the chicken in the front of the oven for ten minutes, and serve it as it stands.

1643—POULET DE GRAINS AUX MORILLES

Prepare this chicken like the one “en casserole,” and surround it with one-half lb. of morels, tossed in butter for a moment. Complete the cooking under cover, and, when about to serve, finish with one tablespoonful of veal gravy.

1644—POULET DE GRAINS SOUVAROFF

Proceed exactly as explained under No. 1520, but reduce the garnish by half.

1645—POULET DE GRAINS TARTARE

Proceed as for No. 1636, but serve a Tartare sauce at the same time.

CHICKS (POUSSINS)

The most perfect example of this class would be the Hamburg chick, were it not for the fact that it is too often kept in confinement and fed on fish, which gives a disagreeable flavour to the young bird.

When it is bred rationally, however, this chick is a great delicacy.

1646—POUSSINS CENDRILLON

Open the chicks along the back, and brown them in butter.

Dish, and serve a Périgueux sauce separately.

1647—POUSSINS A LA PIÉMONTAISE

Stuff each chick with one and one-half oz. of white Piedmont truffles, pounded with an equal weight of very fresh pork fat. Now truss them as for an entrée; string them and fry them in butter over a fierce fire. At the end of ten minutes put them in a cocotte; partly surround and cover them with rizotto à la Piémontaise, and complete the cooking in the oven with lid off.

A few minutes before serving, sprinkle the rizotto with grated Parmesan; glaze; and, at the last minute, sprinkle with nut-brown butter.

1648—POUSSINS A LA POLONAISE

Stuff each chick with one and one-half oz. of gratin forcemeat, two-thirds oz. of soaked and pressed bread-crumbs, one-third oz. of butter, and a pinch of chopped parsley. Truss as for entrées; string; quickly fry the chicks in butter in a very hot oven; put them in a cocotte, and complete their cooking in the oven.

At the last moment sprinkle them with a few drops of lemon juice and nut-brown butter, combined with one oz. of bread-crumbs per four oz. of butter.

1649—POUSSINS A LA TARTARE

Proceed exactly as for “Poulet à

1650—TOURTE DE POUSSINS A LA PAYSANNE

Prepare a round layer of short paste, ten inches in diameter. Upon this paste spread two-thirds lb. of sausage-meat, combined with five oz. of dry Duxelles, taking care to leave a margin two inches wide of bare paste all round.

Upon this coating of forcemeat set ten half-chicks, stiffened in butter; sprinkle two-thirds lb. of chopped mushrooms, sautéd in butter, over them; spread a second coating of sausage-meat and Duxelles over the whole; cover with a very thin slice of bacon, and close the whole with a layer of paste a little larger than the underlying one, the edges of which should have been moistened. Seal the two edges, and pleat regularly; gild; streak; make a slit in the top, and bake in a moderate oven for about forty minutes.

When taking the tourte out of the oven, pour into it, through the slit in its cover, a few tablespoonfuls of half-glaze sauce.

1651—POUSSINS A LA VIENNOISE

Cut the chicks each into four pieces; season them; dredge them; dip them in beaten egg, and roll them in bread-crumbs.

A few minutes before serving, put them in hot fat; drain them, and dish them in pyramid form on a folded napkin. Surround with fried parsley and sections of lemon, and serve very hot.

Various Preparations of Fowl

1652—ABATIS AUX NAVETS

Fry one-half lb. of blanched breast of pork, cut into dice, in butter. Drain, and fry in the same sautépan three lbs. of giblets, cut into pieces (all except the livers, which are only added one-quarter hour before dishing). Sprinkle with two and one-half oz. of flour; mix the latter with the pieces, and cook it in the oven for seven or eight minutes; moisten with three pints of white stock. Season with a pinch of pepper; add a faggot and a crushed, garlic clove; set to boil, stirring the while; cover, and place in a somewhat hot oven, that the preparation may boil gently.

At the end of thirty-five minutes transfer the pieces to another saucepan; put back the bacon; add twenty-four small onions, tossed in butter, one lb. of turnips shaped like elongated olives and glazed, and strain the sauce over the whole.

Complete the cooking gently, and serve in a timbale.

N.B.—With the same procedure, the giblets may be prepared with peas; with mixed, new vegetables; à la chipolata, &c.

1653—GIBLET PIE

Fry the giblets, cut into pieces, in butter; sprinkle them moderately with flour; cook the latter, and moisten with just sufficient consommé to make a clear sauce which will just cover the pieces. Three-parts cook, and leave to cool.

This done, pour the whole into a pie-dish; cover with a layer of puff-paste, which should be sealed down to a strip of paste, stuck to the edge of the dish; gild; streak, and bake in a moderately warm oven for from twenty-five to thirty minutes.

1654—BALLOTINES ET JAMBONNEAUX

These preparations are useful for disposing of any odd legs of fowls, the other parts of which have been already used. The legs are boned and stuffed, and the skin, which should be purposely left long if this preparation be contemplated, is then sewn up. The stuffing used varies according to the kind of dish in preparation, but good sausage-meat is most commonly used.

Ballotines or Jambonneaux are braised, and they may be accompanied by any garnish suited to fowl.

If they be prepared for serving cold, coat them with jelly, or cover them with brown or white chaud-froid sauce, and garnish them according to fancy.

Boudins et Quenelles de Volaille

1655—BOUDINS DE VOLAILLE A LA RICHELIEU

Take the required amount of chicken forcemeat, prepared with panada and cream, and divide it into three-oz. portions. Roll these portions into sausage-form, and open them so as to stuff them with some white chicken-meat, truffle and mushroom salpicon, cohered with reduced Allemande sauce. These quenelles may also be moulded in little, rectangular cases, used in biscuit-making, as follows:—Line the bottom and sides of the moulds, which should be well buttered, with a thickness of one-third inch of forcemeat; garnish the centre with salpicon; cover with forcemeat up to the edges, and smooth with the blade of a small knife dipped in tepid water.

Whichever way they are made, however, the boudins are poached like quenelles, and are afterwards drained on a piece of linen. They are then dipped in beaten egg and rolled in bread-crumbs, and, finally, gently coloured in clarified butter, that their inside may get heated at the same time.

Dish them in a circle on a folded napkin, and serve a Périgueux sauce separately.

1656—BOUDINS DE VOLAILLE SOUBISE

Prepare the boudins with some forcemeat as above, but replace the salpicon inside by a very reduced and cold truffled Soubise purée.

Poach, dip in beaten egg, and roll in bread-crumbs, and colour as before in clarified butter.

Serve a clear Soubise separately.

1657—QUENELLES DE VOLAILLE MORLAND

Mould some portions of somewhat firm chicken mousseline forcemeat into the shape of oval quenelles, three oz. in weight. Dip them in beaten egg; roll them in finely minced truffle, and press lightly on the latter with the blade of a knife, in order that it may combine with the egg.

Poach gently in clarified butter, under cover, that the forcemeat may be well cooked.

Dish in a circle, and in the middle pour a mushroom purée.

1658—QUENELLES DE VOLAILLE D’UZÈS

Line the bottom and sides of some oval buttered quenelle moulds with chicken forcemeat prepared with panada and cream. Garnish the middle with a mince of the white of chicken meat cohered with reduced Allemande sauce, and cover with forcemeat.

Poach the quenelles in good time; drain them on a piece of linen; set them in a circle on a round dish, and coat with Aurore sauce. Garnish the centre of the circle with a fine Julienne of truffles.

1659—CAPILOTADE DE VOLAILLE

Prepare an Italienne sauce, combined with cooked, sliced mushrooms. Add to this sauce some thin slices of cold fowl remains, and heat without allowing to boil at all.

Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle a little chopped parsley over the preparation.

1660—CHICKEN PIE

Cut a fowl into pieces as for a fricassée; season the pieces, and sprinkle them with three finely-chopped onions, one and one-half oz. of chopped mushrooms cooked in butter, and a pinch of chopped parsley.

Line the bottom and sides of a pie-dish with thin slices of veal; set the pieces of fowl inside, putting the legs undermost; add five oz. of thin slices of bacon; the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs cut into two; and moisten sufficiently to three-parts cover with chicken consommé. Cover with a layer of puff-paste, which should be sealed down to a strip of paste stuck to the edges of the pie-dish; gild; streak; make a slit in the middle of the paste, and bake in a moderate oven for one and one-half hours.

When taking the pie out of the oven, pour a few tablespoonfuls of strong gravy into it.

1661—CRÊTES ET ROGNONS DE COQ

In order to prepare cocks’ combs and kidneys, they should be first set to soak in cold water for a few hours.

If they are fresh, they should be put in a saucepan of cold water; the latter should be made lukewarm, and they should then be drained and rubbed in a towel that their skins may be removed. This done, they are trimmed, and kept in fresh water, which ought to be frequently changed until they are quite white.

They may then be cooked in a very light Blanc (No. 167).

The kidneys are merely soaked in cold water for a few hours, and put to cook with the combs a few minutes before the latter are ready.

Cocks’ combs and kidneys are mostly used as garnish; nevertheless, they also serve in the preparation of special dishes, for which I shall now give a few recipes.

1662—CRÊTES ET ROGNONS DE COQ A LA GRECQUE

About twenty-five minutes before serving, prepare a pint of pilaff rice, combined with one half-capsicum cut into dice, and a very little saffron.

Also prepare ten roundels of egg-plant, seasoned, dredged, and fried in oil just before dishing. The moment the rice is cooked, add thereto twenty-four very fresh cocks’ kidneys, frizzled in butter, and twelve fine blanched cocks’ combs, poëled after the manner of lambs’ sweetbreads.

Set the whole in a silver saucepan, arrange the egg-plant roundels in a circle on the rice, and serve instantly.

1663—DESIRS DE MASCOTTE

Put three oz. of butter in a vegetable-pan, and fry it nut-brown.

Add to this butter twenty-four fine cocks’ kidneys (it is essential that these should be fresh); season them with salt, pepper, and a little red pepper, and cook them for from five to six minutes, which should prove sufficient.

Meanwhile, prepare twelve croûtons of bread-crumbs, one-third inch thick, stamped out with a round cutter two-thirds inch in diameter. Fry these croûtons in butter at the last minute.

Put four fine, very black truffles, cut into somewhat thick slices, into the required quantity of reduced half-glaze sauce; add the kidneys, drained of their butter, as well as the fried crusts, one and one-half oz. of very best butter, and a few drops of lemon juice, and roll the saucepan gently, that the butter may thoroughly combine with the sauce.

Dish immediately in a very hot, silver timbale, and serve instantly.

1664—ROGNONS DE COQ FARCIS POUR ENTRÉES FROIDES, GARNITURES, ETC.

Choose some fine, cooked kidneys, and cut them into two lengthwise. Trim them slightly underneath, that they may lie steady.

Stuff them by means of a piping-bag with a highly seasoned purée of foie gras, or of ham, of the white of a chicken and truffles, combined with an equal weight of fresh butter.

Coat them with a pink or white chaud-froid sauce, according to the requirements; set them in a low timbale, and cover them with light jelly.

They may also be put into petits-fours moulds, surrounded with jelly, and used as a garnish for cold fowls.

1664a—CHICKEN CROQUETTES AND CUTLETS

The croquettes and cutlets with which we are now concerned are made up of exactly the same constituents, and only differ in the matter of shape, the croquettes, as a rule, being shaped either like corks or rectangles; sometimes, too, like quoits; whereas the cutlets, as their name implies, are made in cutlet-shaped moulds.

When the preparation is quite cold, transfer it, by means of a spoon, in pieces weighing about two oz., to a flour-dusted mixing board. Make the croquettes and cutlets about the desired shape; dip them into an anglaise, and roll them in fine bread-crumbs. Definitely shape them; plunge them into very hot fat; keep them therein till they have acquired a fine golden colour; drain them, and dish them in a crown on a napkin, with a heap of fried parsley in the middle.

Croquettes and cutlets may be garnished as fancy suggests, but the accompaniment should always be served separately. Tomato and Périgueux sauces are the most commonly used, and the best garnishes for the purpose are all the purées, peas, French beans, and jardinières.

Chickens’ Livers (Foies de Volaille)

1665—BROCHETTES DE FOIES DE VOLAILLE

Collop the livers; quickly stiffen them in butter, and then treat them exactly as explained under “Brochettes de Rognons” (No. 1343).

1666—FOIES DE VOLAILLE ET ROGNONS SAUTÉS AU VIN ROUGE

Proceed according to the recipe given under “Rognons Sautés au Champagne” (No. 1333), using sliced chickens’ livers and cocks’ kidneys in equal quantities, and substituting excellent red wine for the Champagne.

N.B.—Chickens’ livers are also prepared sautés chasseur; sautés fines herbes, au gratin; en coquilles; en pilaw, &c. Refer to sheep’s

1667—FRICASSÉE DE POULET A L’ANCIENNE

For a fricassée cut up the chicken as for a sauté, but divide the legs into two. The procedure is exactly that of “Fricassée de Veau” (No. 1276)—that is to say, the chicken is cooked in the sauce.

About ten minutes before serving, add ten small onions, cooked in white consommé, and ten small grooved mushroom-heads. Finish at the last moment with a pinch of chopped parsley and chives. Thicken the sauce at the last moment with the yolks of two eggs, four tablespoonfuls of cream, and one oz. of best butter.

Dish in a timbale, and surround the fricassée with little flowerets of puff-paste, baked without colouration.

1668—FRICASSÉE DE POULET AUX ÉCREVISSES

Prepare the fricassée as above, and add thereto as garnish ten small, cooked mushrooms, and the shelled tails of twelve crayfish, cooked as for bisque. When about to serve, finish the fricassée with two and one-half oz. of crayfish butter, made from the crayfishes’ carcasses and their cooking-liquor rubbed through linen.

Dish in a timbale.

1669—FRITÔT OU MARINADE DE VOLAILLE

Cut some boiled or roast fowl into slices, and marinade these in a few drops of oil, lemon juice, and some chopped herbs for one-quarter hour. Boiled fowl is preferable, in that the greater porousness of its meat facilitates the percolation of the marinade through it.

A few minutes before serving, dip the slices into very light batter, and put them into very hot fat. Drain, the moment the batter is well gilded; dish on a napkin with fried parsley, and serve a tomato sauce separately.

N.B.—Nowadays Fritôt and Marinade of fowl are identically the same dish, but formerly they differed in this, namely, that the Fritôt was prepared from cooked fowl, and the Marinade from pieces of uncooked fowl which were marinaded beforehand.

1670—MOUSSES ET MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE

Both these preparations have for basic ingredient the mousseline forcemeat of No. 195. They differ in that the “Mousses” are prepared singly for one service, i.e., for several people at once, and that the “Mousselines,” which are virtually special quenelles, are prepared in the proportion of one or two for each person.

In different parts of this work, especially under No. 797, the subject has already been exhaustively treated; there is no need now, therefore, to go over the ground again.

1671—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE ALEXANDRA

Mould and poach the Mousselines. Drain them, and set them in a circle on a round dish; place on each a fine slice of cooked fowl, and upon the latter a slice of truffle. Coat with Mornay sauce, glaze quickly, and, in the middle of the mousselines, set a heap of asparagus-heads or small peas, cohered with butter.

1672—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE A L’INDIENNE

Prepare the mousselines as above; set them in a circle on a round dish; coat with Indienne sauce, and serve a timbale of rice à l’Indienne separately.

1673—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE AU PAPRIKA

When the mousselines are poached and dished, set upon each a fine collop of suprême, and coat with suprême sauce with paprika. Surround them with small timbales of pilaff rice combined with concassed tomatoes cooked in butter.

1674—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE A LA PATTI

Proceed as for “Mousselines Alexandra,” but coat them with suprême sauce, finished with crayfish butter. In their midst set a heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, and upon these lay some fine slices of glazed truffles.

1675—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE A LA SICILIENNE

Prepare the mousselines as above, and set them, each on an oval tartlet, garnished with macaroni à la Napolitaine. Coat them with suprême sauce; besprinkle with grated Parmesan, and glaze quickly.

1676—SYLPHIDES DE VOLAILLE

Prepare and poach the mousselines in the usual way. Garnish the bottom of some barquettes with Mornay sauce, and put a mousseline into each barquette.

Set a collop of fowl on each mousseline, and cover them with a somewhat stiff preparation of soufflé au Parmesan (No. 2295a), applied ornamentally by means of a piping-bag fitted with an even pipe. Put the sylphides in the oven, in order to cook the soufflé, and serve instantly.

1677—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE A LA FLORENTINE

Proceed as for the sylphides; taking note only of this difference, viz., that the bottom of the barquettes must be garnished with shredded spinach stewed in butter. For the other details of the operation the procedure is the same.

1678—PILAW DE VOLAILLE

Pilaff, which is the national dish of Orientals, gives rise to an endless number of recipes. The various curries of veal, lamb, and fowl are “pilaffs,” and all except the one “à la Parisienne,” which I give below, follow the same method of preparation—namely, that of curry; but for a change in the condiments and the treatment of the rice, which is not the same as that of “Riz à l’Indienne.”

1679—PILAW DE VOLAILLE A LA GRECQUE

Cut the fowl into small pieces, and fry it in mutton fat with three oz. of chopped onions. Sprinkle with one oz. of flour; moisten with one pint of white consommé; add two-thirds of a capsicum, cut into dice, and one and one-half oz. of currants and sultanas, and cook gently.

Dish in a timbale, and serve some pilaw rice separately.

1680—PILAW DE VOLAILLE A L’ORIENTALE

Prepare the fowl as above, only flavour it with a little powdered ginger, and add three green braised and quartered capsicums to the sauce.

Serve a timbale of pilaff rice at the same time.

1681—PILAW DE VOLAILLE A LA PARISIENNE

Cut up the fowl as for a fricassée; season it; fry it in butter, and add thereto three and one-half oz. of rice, browned in butter, with one chopped onion, a leaf of bay, and two peeled and concassed tomatoes. Moisten with enough white broth to more than cover, and cook in a very hot oven for twenty-five minutes. At the end of this time the fowl and rice are cooked, and the rice should be quite dry.

Sprinkle then with one-sixth pint of veal stock; mix the latter with the pilaff by means of a fork, and dish with care in a timbale.

Serve a sauceboat of tomato sauce separately.

1682—PILAW DE VOLAILLE A LA TURQUE

Prepare the fowl as for “Pilaw à la Parisienne,” and flavour with a little cayenne and another of saffron. Dish in a timbale.

N.B.—Pilaff may also be prepared with cooked fowl, cut into slices which are heated in butter. In this case, garnish the bottoms and sides of a timbale with tomatéd pilaff rice; put the slices of fowl in the middle; cover with rice, and turn out the timbale on the dish.

Surround the timbale with a thread of tomato sauce.

1683—SOUFFLÉS DE VOLAILLE

For dinners on a large scale, it is in every way preferable to use raw chicken-meat. For small services, cooked chicken-meat suits perfectly.

N.B.—The time allowed for cooking chicken soufflés with cooked chicken-meat is comparatively long, and it is better to cook them a little too much than not enough.

For a soufflé made in a quart timbale, and cooked in a moderate oven as directed, allow from about twenty-five to thirty minutes.

1684—SOUFFLÉ DE VOLAILLE WITH RAW MEAT

Prepare two lbs. of mousseline forcemeat of chicken, according to recipe No. 195; add to this the whites of four eggs beaten to a stiff froth.

Dish in buttered timbales, and cook in a moderate oven.

1685—SOUFFLÉ DE VOLAILLE WITH COOKED MEAT

Finely pound one lb. of the white of cooked chicken-meat; add thereto six tablespoonfuls of cold, reduced, Béchamel sauce. Rub through tammy.

Heat this preparation in a saucepan, without allowing it to boil, and add to it one and one-half oz. of butter, the yolks of five eggs, and the whites of six, beaten to a stiff froth.

Dish in a buttered timbale, and cook in a moderate oven.

Suprême sauce and the other derivatives of Allemande sauce form the best accompaniments to chicken soufflés.

1686—SOUFFLÉ DE VOLAILLE A LA PÉRIGORD

This may be made from either one of the two above-mentioned preparations, but there must be added to it three and one-half oz. of chopped truffles. The preparation is then spread in layers separated by slices of truffle, which should weigh about three and one-half oz. in all, in order to be in proportion to the quantities already given.

Cold Preparations of Fowl.

1687—POULARDE A LA CARMÉLITE

Poach the pullet; raise the suprêmes and remove their skin; slice them; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce, and decorate them soberly with pieces of truffle. Trim the carcass; coat it outside with white chaud-froid sauce, and fill it with a fine crayfish mousse, reconstructing it exactly in so doing.

Cause a mousse to set in a refrigerator; place the collops of suprême neatly upon it, in two rows, and between each row lay a dozen fine crayfish tails shelled and trimmed.

Coat the whole with half-melted aspic jelly; set in a deep dish; incrust the latter in a block of ice, and pour enough very good, melting aspic jelly (No. 159) over the pullet to half-immerse it.

1688—POULARDE AU CHAMPAGNE

Stuff a pullet two days beforehand with a whole foie gras studded with truffles and stiffened in butter for twenty minutes. Poële it in champagne; put it in a cocotte; cover it with its poëling-liquor, containing a sufficient addition of succulent jelly, and leave it to cool.

On the morrow remove, by means of a spoon, the grease that has settled on the jelly, and scald the latter twice or thrice with boiling water, in order to remove the last traces of grease.

Serve this pullet very cold, in the same cocotte in which it has cooled.

1689—POULARDE EN CHAUD-FROID

Poach the pullet; let it cool in its cooking-liquor; cut it up, and clear the pieces of all skin. Dip the pieces in chaud-froid sauce, already prepared from the pullet’s cooking-liquor if possible, and arrange them on a tray. Decorate each piece with a fine slice of truffle; glaze with cold, melted jelly; leave to set, and trim the edges of the pieces, just before dishing them.

Old method of dishing: Formerly, chaud-froids were dished on a cushion of bread or rice, placed in the middle of a border of jelly; and, between each piece, cocks’ combs and mushrooms, covered with chaud-froid sauce or jelly, were set.

They were also dished on stearine tazzas, made in special moulds; but these methods, however much they may have been honoured by old cookery, are generally scouted at the present day.

The method of dishing detailed hereafter is steadily ousting them; it allows of serving much more delicate and more agreeable chaud-froids in the simplest possible way, and was inaugurated at my suggestion at the Savoy Hotel.

Modern method of dishing: Set the decorated pieces, coated with chaud-froid sauce, side by side on a layer of excellent aspic jelly, lying on the bottom of a deep square dish. Cover them with the same aspic, which should be half melted, and leave to set. When about to serve, incrust the dish in a block of carved ice, or surround it with the latter fragmented.

This procedure allows of using less gelatinous products in the preparation of the aspic, and the latter is therefore much more delicate, mellow, and melting.

1690—POULARDE EN CHAUD-FROID A L’ÉCOSSAISE

Having poached and cooled the pullets, raise the suprêmes, and cut each into three or four collops. Garnish these collops, dome-fashion, with a salpicon consisting of the meat cut from the carcass, combined with an equal quantity of salted tongue and truffle, and cohered with reduced chicken jelly.

Coat these collops with white chaud-froid sauce; sprinkle them immediately with very red tongue, truffle, gherkins, and hard-boiled white of egg; all chopped, mixed, and glazed with jelly.

Now set the collops in a deep, square silver dish, alternating them with oval slices of salted tongue.

Garnish their midst with a salad of French beans, cut lozenge-form and cohered with aspic.

1691—CHAUD-FROID FELIX FAURE

Raise the suprêmes of a fine pullet; cut them in two in the thick part, without separating them, and slightly flatten them. Lay them on a piece of linen; season them; and, on one of their halves, spread a layer of foie-gras purée thickened with a little chicken forcemeat. Upon this layer set some rectangles of raw foie gras, one-third in. thick; cover with purée, set some slices of truffle upon the latter; coat again with purée; moisten with white of egg, and over the whole press the other half of the suprême. Wrap each suprême, prepared in this way, in a piece of muslin; poach them in a moderate oven, after having moistened them to within half their height with chicken stock; and leave them to cool in their cooking-liquor under slight pressure.

This done, take off the muslin, and cut each suprême into ten or twelve medallions. Envelop each medallion in a mousse of chicken made with the meat of the poached eggs, and leave to set. Then coat each medallion with white chaud-froid sauce, and deck each with a fine slice of truffle.

Clothe a dome-mould with a fine chicken jelly, and decorate it with slices of truffle; put the medallions inside, proceeding as for an aspic, and leave to set.

When about to serve, turn out on a serviette.

1692—CHAUD-FROID DE POULARDE A LA GOUNOD

Raise the suprêmes of a poached pullet, and cool them under pressure.

Then cut them into rectangles of equal sizes; and, if necessary, bisect them in the thickness.

Prepare a slab of mousse (made from the legs and the trimmings), twice as thick as the rectangles. Smoothen this mousse neatly, and put it in the refrigerator that it may get firm. This done, cut it into pieces exactly equal in size to the suprêmes; to do this, all that is necessary is to stick the latter on the mousse by means of jelly.

Now coat each suprême garnished with mousse with white chaud-froid sauce, and decorate with a bar of notes, imitated with truffles.

Set in a square, deep silver dish; cover with limpid and melting chicken jelly; leave to set, and serve the dish incrusted in a block of ice.

1693—CHAUD-FROID DE POULARDE A LA ROSSINI

Prepare the pieces as for ordinary chaud-froid, and coat them with chaud-froid sauce combined with a quarter of its bulk of very smooth foie-gras purée. Decorate each piece with a lyre composed of truffle stamped out with a “lyre” fancy-cutter, set them on a deep, square dish, and cover with chicken jelly as above.

1694

Completely bone the pullet’s breast, and stuff it with a preparation of chicken forcemeat (No. 200). Sew up the piece, truss it as for an entrée, and poach it in a chicken stock.

When it is cold, trim it, and coat it with a white chaud-froid sauce, combined with a little almond milk. Glaze with aspic jelly, and set it, without decorating it, on a low cushion lying on a long dish.

Surround it with six small, ham mousses and six small, chicken mousses, moulded in deep dariole-moulds, and arranged alternately.

Border the dish with croûtons of jelly, cut very neatly.

1695—POULETS A L’ÉCARLATE

Bone the breasts of three fair-sized chickens; stuff and poach them as explained above. When they are quite cold, cover them with white chaud-froid sauce; decorate with pieces of truffle; glaze with aspic jelly, and leave to set.

This done, set them upright on a dish, letting them lean one against the other. Between each chicken set a salted calf’s tongue, upright, with the tip of the tongue pointing upwards; and, on either side of the tongues, a large glazed truffle.

Border the dish with fine croûtons of jelly, and serve a mayonnaise sauce at the same time.

1696—POULARDE A LA LAMBERTYE

Poach the pullet and let it cool thoroughly.

Raise the suprêmes, suppress the bones of the breast and garnish the cavity with a cold chicken mousse, combined with a quarter of its volume of foie-gras purée, shaping the latter in such wise as to reconstruct the bird.

Cut the suprêmes into thin, long slices; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce, and place them on the mousse, pressing them lightly one upon the other. Deck with pieces of truffle; glaze with chicken jelly; set in a square, entrée dish, and surround with melted jelly.

When about to serve, incrust the dish in a block of ice.

1697—POULARDE A LA NEVA

Stuff the pullet with chicken forcemeat (No. 200), combined with foie gras and truffles, cut into dice; poach it in chicken stock and let it cool. This done, coat the piece with white chaud-froid sauce, decorate with jelly, and leave to set.

Set the pullet on a cushion of rice, lying on a long dish. Behind the bird, arrange a fine, vegetable salad in a shell of carved rice, or in a large, silver shell.

Border the dish with neatly-cut croûtons of pale jelly.

1698—POULARDE ROSE DE MAI

Poach the pullet and, when it is quite cold, raise its suprêmes and remove the bones of the breast. Coat the carcass with a white chaud-froid sauce; decorate as fancy may dictate; garnish with a mousse of tomatoes (No. 814), and arrange the latter in such wise as to reconstruct the bird.

Slice the suprêmes; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce; decorate with truffles, and glaze with chicken jelly. Garnish with the same mousse as that already used for the pullet, as many small, barquette-moulds as there are chaud-froid-coated slices, and leave to set.

Put the pullets on a low cushion of rice, placed on a long dish; surround it with the barquettes of mousse, turned out at the last moment; set a chaud-froid-coated slice on each barquette, and distribute croûtons of jelly over the dish.

1699—POULARDE ROSE MARIE

Having poached and cooled the pullet, raise its suprêmes; cut these into collops, and coat them with white chaud-froid sauce. Trim the carcass, leaving the wings attached; garnish it with very smooth and pink, ham mousse, giving the latter the shape of the pullet, and put to set in the refrigerator.

Mould in small, oval moulds, as many barquettes of the same ham mousse as there are collops.

When the mousse in the fowl has properly set, coat it with chaud-froid sauce, prepared with paprika of a fine, tender, pink shade; decorate according to fancy, and glaze with chicken jelly.

Set the pullet on a low cushion of rice, placed on a dish; place the barquettes of ham mousse around it; set a collop on each mousse and a fine slice of truffle on each collop, and border the dish with croûtons of aspic.

1700—POULARDE A LA SAINT-CYR

Poële the pullet in white wine, and leave it to cool in its cooking-liquor. This done, raise the fillets; cut them into regular slices; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce and decorate.

Meanwhile, sauté fifteen larks in a mirepoix; remove the fillets of six of them; glaze them with brown, chaud-froid sauce, and decorate them with bits of hard-boiled white of egg.

With the remainder of the larks and five oz. of foie gras, prepare a mousse, and use the latter for reconstructing the pullet as explained in the preceding recipes. When the mousse has set properly, coat it with brown, chaud-froid sauce. Arrange the chicken fillets, coated with white, chaud-froid sauce, on either side of the mousse; in the middle put the larks’ fillets, coated with brown, chaud-froid sauce, and let them slightly overlap one another.

Set the pullet in a deep, square dish; surround it with melted, chicken jelly; let the latter set, and serve the dish incrusted in a block of ice.

1701—POULARDE EN TERRINE A LA GELÉE

Bone the pullet all but the legs, and stuff it with a forcemeat consisting of: three and one-half oz. of veal; three and one-half oz. of fresh pork fat; three and one-half oz. of gratin forcemeat, prepared from fowls’ livers; two tablespoonfuls of brandy; two tablespoonfuls of truffle essence, and the yolk of an egg.

In the midst of the stuffing, set half of a raw foie gras and one raw, quartered truffle on each side. Reconstruct the pullet; truss it as for an entrée; cover it with slices of bacon, and poële in Madeira for one and one-half hours.

Leave to half-cool in the cooking-liquor; withdraw the pullet; remove the slices of bacon, and put it in a terrine just large enough to hold it.

Add a little chicken jelly to the bird’s cooking-liquor, which should not have been cleared of grease, but merely strained through a napkin; and pour this sauce over the pullet.

Do not serve until twenty-four hours have elapsed, and clear of grease as directed under “Poularde au Champagne” (No. 1688).

Serve the terrine in a block of ice, or on a dish with broken ice all round.

1702—TERRINE DE POULARDE EN CONSERVE

Prepare the pullet as explained above, and put it in a box just large enough to hold it. Seal up the box; mark the top with a bit of tin; put it in a stewpan with enough water to cover it, and boil for two hours.

This done, withdraw the box and cool it, placing it upside down, that the grease may be at the bottom and the breast coated with jelly.

1703—AILERONS DE POULET A LA CARMÉLITE

Poach a chicken à la Reine; let it cool; raise its suprêmes and leave the humerus bones attached, after having duly cleared them of all meat; skin the suprêmes, and coat them with a little jelly.

Garnish a timbale, just large enough to hold the two wings, half-way up with crayfish mousse. Upon this mousse, set the two suprêmes, opposite one another, and between them set a row of shelled and trimmed crayfishes’ tails, cooked as for bisque. Cover the whole with a succulent half-set chicken jelly, and place in the refrigerator for two hours.

1704—AILERONS DE POULET LADY WILMER

Poach three fleshy, spring chickens, taking care to have the suprêmes just cooked. Leave to cool, and raise the wings as in the preceding recipe, trim them and coat them with jelly.

With the meat of three legs, prepare a chicken mousse, and mould it in a dome-mould. When the mousse is set, turn it out on a dish, and place the wings all round, fixing them on the mousse, with their points upwards, by means of a little half-set jelly.

Cover the mousse on top, and the gaps between the points of the suprêmes with chopped truffle and chopped tongue, laid alternately. In the middle of the mousse, set a fine, glazed truffle, pierced by a small hatelet.

1705—ASPIC DE POULET A L’ITALIENNE

Clothe a border mould with aspic jelly, in accordance with the procedure described under “Aspic de Homard” (No. 954), and decorate it with large slices of truffles. Fill the mould with a coarse julienne of chicken fillets, salted tongue and truffles, spread in successive layers and besprinkled with cold, melted aspic.

When about to serve, turn out the aspic on a very cold dish; set a salad “à l’Italienne” in its midst, and serve a Rémoulade sauce separately.

1706—ASPIC DE POULET A LA GAULOISE

Clothe an ornamented mould with jelly, and decorate its bottom and sides with truffles. Fill it with successive and alternate layers of: aspic jelly, collops of chicken fillets, cocks’ combs coated with brown, chaud-froid sauce, fine cocks’ kidneys, coated with white chaud-froid sauce, and slices of salted tongue cut into oval shapes.

When about to serve, turn out, and surround with fine croûtons of aspic.

1707—MÉDAILLONS

Prepare some chicken suprêmes as explained under “Chaud-froid Félix Faure” (No. 1691

Prepare a mousse from the meat of the legs. Spread this mousse on a tray in a layer one-third in. thick and leave it to set. When it is quite firm, stamp it out with a round, even cutter, dipped in hot water, and a little larger than the one used in trimming the collops.

Set a medallion on each roundel of mousse, fixing it there by means of a little half-set jelly, and arrange the medallion prepared in this way on a square dish.

In their midst set a fine faggot of asparagus-heads; fill the gaps between

Serve on a block of ice or surround the dish with ice.

1708—GALANTINE DE VOLAILLE

For galantines, fowls may be used which are a little too tough to be roasted, but old fowls should be discarded. The latter invariably yield a dry forcemeat, whatever measures one may take in the preparation.

The fowl should be cleaned but not emptied, and it should be carefully boned; the process beginning from an incision down the skin of the back, from the head to the tail.

This done, carefully remove the meat with the point of a small, sharp knife, until the carcass is quite bare. Cut off the wings and the legs, flush with the articulations of the trunk; remove all the meat that the skin may be quite clean, and spread the skin on a clean piece of linen. Trim the meat of the breast, cut it into pieces one-third inch square, and put the resulting trimmings aside.

Season these pieces and marinade them in a few drops of brandy; prepare other pieces of the same size and length from four oz. of truffles; six oz. of salted, fat pork; four oz. of cooked ham, and four oz. of salted and cooked ox-tongue. Then clear the meat of the legs of all tendons; add to it the trimmings cut from the breast, as much very white veal and twice as much very fat, fresh pork; season these meats with salt, pepper and nutmeg; chop them up very finely; pound them, and rub them through a sieve. Add the brandy in which the fillets were marinaded.

Spread a layer, three in. wide, of this forcemeat along the whole of the middle of the chicken’s skin; upon this layer of forcemeat set the strips of bacon, fowl, truffle, ham, and tongue, arranging them alternately and regularly; upon them spread another layer of forcemeat, equal to the first; then another layer of the various pieces, and finally cover and envelop the whole in what remains of the forcemeat.

Draw the skin of the fowl over the whole and completely wrap the former round the latter. Carefully sew up the edges of the skin, and roll the galantine in a napkin, either end of which should be tightly strung.

With six lbs. of shin of veal, one-half lb. of fresh blanched pork rind, and the fowl’s carcass, prepare a white veal stock (No. 10). When this stock has cooked for about five hours, add the galantine to it, and gently cook the latter for about one and one-quarter hours.

At the end of this time take the galantine off the fire; drain it on a dish, and let it cool for ten minutes; remove the napkin in which it has cooked, and roll it in another one which should be similarly tied at both ends. This done, put the galantine to cool under a weight not exceeding five or six lbs.

The cooking-liquor, once it has been cleared of grease and clarified as for an aspic (No. 158), constitutes a jelly which accompanies the galantine. When the latter is quite cold, remove the napkin covering it, trim it neatly at either end; coat it with half-melted jelly, and dish it on a low cushion of carved rice. Finally, decorate it as fancy may dictate with pieces of jelly.

1709—PAIN DE VOLAILLE FROID

Poële a very tender chicken; do not colour it and have it only just done. Withdraw it and leave it to cool. Add two tablespoonfuls of strong veal stock and one tablespoonful of burned brandy to the poëling-liquor.

Simmer for ten minutes. Strain this stock through a sieve, and slightly press the vegetables in so doing, that all their juices may be expressed.

Clear of grease, and reduce until the liquor does not measure more than two tablespoonfuls. Put it on the side of the fire, add the yolks of three eggs, stirring briskly the while, and add, little by little, six oz. of very good, fresh butter, just as for a Hollandaise sauce. Finally, add one and one-half leaves of gelatine, dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of boiling water, and rub the whole through tammy.

Meanwhile, raise the chicken’s fillets and cut them into wide and thin collops, after having cleared them of skin. Cover each collop with a slice of truffle dipped in good, half-melted jelly, and with them line the bottom and sides of a timbale-mould, already clothed with jelly and incrusted in ice.

Then completely bone the chicken; finely pound the remainder of its meat as well as the skin; rub the whole through a fine sieve, and add the resulting purée to the prepared sauce. Mix the whole well, and fill the mould with it. Allow to set well, and turn out on a cushion of rice surrounded by fine croûtons of jelly.

N.B.—By substituting young ducks, young pigeons, or some kind of game such as pheasant, woodcock, &c., for the chicken, this recipe may be applied to any piece of poultry or game.

1710—SUPRÊME DE VOLAILLE JEANNETTE

Poach a fowl; let it cool; raise its suprêmes, and cut each into four collops, trimmed to the shape of ovals. Coat these collops with white chaud-froid sauce, and decorate them with tarragon leaves, blanched, cooled, well-drained and very green.

Let a layer of aspic jelly one-half in. thick set on the bottom of a timbale or a square dish; upon this layer set some slices of foie-gras Parfait, cut to the shape of the collops, and place one of the latter on each slice of the Parfait. This done, cover with fine half-melted chicken jelly.

When about to serve, incrust the dish or the timbale in a block of carved ice.

1711—MOUSSE DE VOLAILLE FROIDE

The carefully boned and skinned meat of a poached fowl may be used in the preparation of this mousse, but a freshly-roasted fowl, scarcely cooled, is preferable; the latter’s flavour being more delicate and more distinct.

The quantities and the mode of procedure for cold fowl mousse are those given under “mousse de tomates” (No. 814).

The various mousse recipes which I gave for trout (Nos. 813 and 815) may be applied to cold fillets of fowl. In this case, the latter may be coated with some kind of chaud-froid sauce, or simply glazed with jelly, and soberly decorated.

These mousses constitute excellent dishes for suppers, and from a very long list of them I may quote:—

Mousse de jambon au blanc de poulet.

Mousse de foie gras au blanc de poulet.

Mousse de langue au blanc de poulet.

Mousse de tomates au blanc de poulet.

Mousse d’écrevisses au blanc de poulet.

Mousse d’airelles ou de canneberges au blanc de poulet.

Mousse de physalis au blanc de poulet.

1712—MAYONNAISE DE VOLAILLE

Garnish the bottom of a salad-bowl with ciseled lettuce, arranging it in the shape of a dome. Season with a little salt and a few drops of vinegar. Upon this salad arrange the cold collops of boiled or roast fowl, carefully cleared of all skin.

Cover with mayonnaise sauce; smooth the latter and decorate with capers; small stoned olives; anchovy fillets; quartered hard-boiled eggs; small quartered or whole lettuce hearts.

Arrange these decorating constituents according to fancy, as no hard and fast rule can be given.

When about to serve, mix as for a salad.

1713—CHICKEN SALAD

This dish consists of the same ingredients as the preceding one, except for the mayonnaise, which is replaced by an ordinary seasoning added just before mixing and serving.

1714—PÂTÉ

Line a raised-pie mould with patty paste (No. 2359), taking care to leave a fine crest.

Bone a fowl weighing about four or five lbs. Set the suprêmes (each cut into three collops) to marinade in a glass of brandy, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and five medium-sized peeled truffles, each cut into four or five thick slices.

With what remains of the fowl’s meat, as much lean pork and veal (mixed in equal quantities) and twice as much fresh, pork fat (i.e.marinade of the fillets; one raw egg, and the necessary seasoning, to wit: salt, pepper, and nutmeg.

Line the bottom and sides of the pie with this forcemeat; on this first layer of forcemeat lay a thin slice of bacon and thick slices of tongue, beef, or ham. Place thereon another slice of bacon, followed by a thin layer of forcemeat, a layer of truffle slices, another layer of forcemeat, the collops of fowl, another layer of forcemeat, one more layer of truffles, one more layer of forcemeat, one more layer of tongue or ham (between two thin slices of bacon); and finally cover the whole with what remains of the forcemeat and a slice of larding bacon superposed by a bay-leaf. Now close the pie with a cover of the same paste as that already used, carefully seal down the cover to the crest of the underlying paste, trim and pinch the crest, and deck this cover of paste with imitation-leaves of the same paste.

Make a slit in the top of the pie, for the escape of steam; carefully gild the cover and the crest, and bake in a moderate oven for about one and one-quarter hours. On withdrawing the pie from the oven, let it half cool, and fill it with a succulent, chicken jelly. Allow this dish to cool for at least twenty-four hours before serving.

N.B.—With this recipe as model, and by substituting another piece of poultry or game for the fowl, raised pies may be prepared from every kind of game or poultry, except water-game, which only yields mediocre results.

In the case of game pies, the forcemeat is combined with one-sixth of its weight of gratin forcemeat (No. 202) and an equal quantity of fat bacon is suppressed. The chicken jelly is also replaced by a jelly prepared from the carcasses of the birds under treatment.

Dish these raised pies plainly, on napkins, and very cold.

1714a—CHICKEN PIE

See No. 1660.

1715—DINDONNEAU (Young Turkey)

Young turkeys, served as relevés or entrées, admit of all the recipes given for pullets; therefore, in order to avoid unnecessary repetition, the reader is begged to refer to those recipes.

Those most generally applied to young turkeys are the ones termed “à l’Anglaise”—with celery, à la Financière, à la Godard, and à la Jardinière.

In addition to these preparations, there are others which are better suited and are more proper to young turkeys, and these I give below.

1716—DINDONNEAU FARCI AUX MARRONS

Cut open the shells of two and one-quarter lbs. of chestnuts; immerse them for a few seconds in smoking fat; peel them, and almost completely cook them in consommé. Then mix them with two lbs. of very finely-chopped pork, rubbed through tammy. Fill the bird with this preparation; truss it, and roast it on the spit or in the oven, basting frequently the while.

Serve with the gravy separately. The latter should be somewhat fat.

1717—DINDONNEAU A LA CATALANE

Cut up the young turkey as for a fricassée, and fry the pieces in three oz. of butter. When the pieces are nicely browned, swill the utensil with one pint of white wine; season with salt and pepper; add a piece, the size of a pea, of crushed garlic, and completely reduce. Then moisten with sufficient tomato purée and equal quantities of Espagnole and brown stock to just cover the pieces.

Cook in the oven for forty minutes; transfer the pieces to another dish after having trimmed them, and add one-half lb. of raw, quartered mushrooms, sautéd in butter; twenty chestnuts cooked in consommé; twenty small, glazed onions; five quartered tomatoes, and ten sausages.

Strain the sauce over the pieces of turkey; complete the cooking for twenty-five minutes, and dish in a timbale.

1718—DINDONNEAU CHIPOLATA

This may be prepared in two ways, according as to whether it be intended for lunch or for dinner.

(1) Cut up the young turkey and fry the pieces in butter as above. Swill with one glassful of white wine; add a sufficient quantity of tomatéd half-glaze sauce, just to cover the pieces, and cook in the oven for forty minutes.

This done, transfer the pieces to another stewpan and add thereto twenty small, glazed onions, twenty chestnuts cooked in consommé, ten chipolata sausages, one-third lb. of frizzled pieces of fresh pork cut into dice, and twenty olive-shaped and glazed carrots. Strain the sauce over the whole, complete the cooking and dish in a timbale.

(2) Braise the young turkey; glaze it at the last moment, and set on a long dish. Surround it with the garnish given above, combined with the reduced braising-liquor.

1719—DINDONNEAU EN DAUBE

Bone the young turkey’s breast, and stuff it, arranging its meat as for a galantine, with very good sausage-meat combined with a glassful of liqueur brandy per two lbs. of the former; bacon, truffles; and a very small and red ox-tongue, covered with slices of bacon and set in the centre of the garnish.

Reconstruct the young turkey; sew it; truss it, and put it in a terrine just large enough to hold it and its moistening.

With the bones and the trimmings of the young turkey, two slices of veal, two lbs. of frizzled beef, aromatics, one pint of white wine, and two quarts of water, prepare a brown stock after recipe No. 9. Reduce this stock to one and one-half quarts; put it into the terrine; cover and thoroughly close up the latter with a strip of paste, and cook in a hot oven for two and one-half hours.

Leave to cool in the terrine, and, when about to serve, slightly heat the latter in order to turn out the daube.

1720—BLANC DE DINDONNEAU A LA DAMPIERRE

Remove and bone the young turkey’s legs. With the meat, carefully cleared of all tendons, prepare a mousseline forcemeat; spread the latter on a tray in a layer one-third in. thick, and poach it. Stamp it out with an even, oval fancy-cutter, about three in. by two in.

Braise or poële the young turkey’s breast with the greatest care, keeping it underdone. This done, raise the two suprêmes, skin them, and cut them into collops of a size that will allow of their being trimmed with the fancy-cutter already used. With a little raw forcemeat, stick a collop to each oval of poached forcemeat; then, by means of a piping-bag fitted with an even pipe, garnish the borders of the collops with the same forcemeat combined with twice its bulk of chopped salted tongue. Set the medallions thus prepared on a covered tray, and put them in the steamer that the forcemeat may poach.

When about to serve, take the piping-bag and make a fine rosette of a purée of peas in the centre of each medallion. Set these medallions in a circle on a round dish, around a little bowl of carved, fried bread, garnished with the same purée of peas.

Serve separately a velouté prepared from the bones of the dindonneau.

1721—BLANC DE DINDONNEAU A LA TOULOUSAINE

Poële the young turkey. When it is cooked, raise its suprêmes, skin them, and cut them into somewhat thick collops.

Dish these collops in a circle, and set a collop of foie gras, sautéd in butter, between each.

Pour a Toulousaine garnish in their midst, and surround with a thread of light glaze.

1722—AILERONS DE DINDONNEAU DORÉS A LA PURÉE DE MARRONS

The pinions referred to in this recipe are pinions properly so called; that is to say, they consist of the two last joints of the wing. When they are properly prepared, they constitute one of the most savoury luncheon entrées that can be served.

The pinions of large pullets may be treated in this way.

Clear and singe the pinions, and set them in a buttered sautépan, just large enough to hold them. Colour gently on both sides and drain.

In the same butter, gently brown a sliced carrot and onion, to which add a few parsley stalks and a little thyme and bay. Set the pinions on these aromatics; season moderately with salt and pepper; cover the sautépan, and continue cooking gently in a very slow oven, basting often the while.

The dish will be all the better for having been cooked slowly and regularly. Do not moisten, if possible, or, at the most, only do so with a few drops of water, in order to keep the butter from clarifying—not an unusual occurrence when the heat is too fierce.

When the pinions are cooked, dish them radially, and cover them that they may keep warm. Add a few tablespoonfuls of light stock or some water to the cooking butter, and set to boil gently for fifteen minutes. When this stock is sufficiently reduced to only half-immerse the pinions, pass it through a fine strainer and clear of some of the grease if necessary; remember, however, that this stock should be somewhat fat.

Pour it over the pinions, and serve a timbale of a fine purée of marrons separately.

1722a—DINDONNEAU FROID

All the recipes given for cold pullets may be applied to this bird.

Goose (Oie)

The principal value of the goose from the culinary point of view lies in the fact that it supplies the best, most delicate and firmest foie gras.

Apart from this property, the preciousness of which is truly inestimable, goose is really only served at bourgeois or family tables.

1722b—OISON A L’ALLEMANDE

Completely bone the gosling’s breast; season it inside, and stuff it with quartered, peeled and cored apples, half-cooked in butter.

Sew up the openings, and braise gently, basting with fat the while.

When the gosling is cooked, dish it and surround it with peeled apples, cored by means of the tube-cutter, cooked in butter, and garnished with red-currant jelly. Drain away three-quarters of the grease; swill the braising-pan with the required quantity of good gravy for roasts; strain this gravy, and serve it separately.

1722c—OISON A L’ALSACIENNE

Stuff the gosling with very good sausage-meat; truss; colour in butter and poële. Dish and surround with sauerkraut braised in goose grease, and rectangles of lean bacon, cooked with the sauerkraut.

1723—OISON A L’ANGLAISE

Cook one lb. of unpeeled onions in the oven. When they are cold, peel them; chop them, and add to them an equal weight of soaked and pressed bread, one oz. of fresh or chopped sage, salt, pepper and nutmeg.

Stuff the gosling with this preparation; truss it, and roast it on the spit or in the oven.

Dish it; surround it with the gravy, which should be somewhat fat, and serve a sauceboat of slightly-sugared, stewed apples, separately.

1724—OISON EN CIVET

When killing the gosling, carefully collect its blood. Add the juice of a lemon and beat it, so as to prevent coagulation, until it is quite cold.

Cut the gosling into pieces and proceed exactly as for “Civet de Lièvre” (No. 1821).

1725—OISON AU RAIFORT

Braise the gosling.

Dish it and surround it, either with noodles with butter, or rice au gras (No. 2252). Besprinkle the garnish with the reduced braising-liquor, and serve a horse-radish sauce with cream (No. 138), separately.

N.B.—Besides these various recipes, goslings may also be prepared like young turkeys, i.e., with chestnuts, à la Chipolata, en Daube; or with turnips, peas, and “en Salmis,” like Duck.

1726—FOIE GRAS

Foies gras are supplied either by geese or ducks. Goose’s liver is larger, firmer and less readily melted than that of the duck. As a rule the former should be selected in preference, more particularly in the matter of hot dishes. Nevertheless, failing goose’s liver, duck’s liver may be used and with very good results when its quality is good.

Foies gras are used in the preparation of terrines, raised pies, parfaits and mousses, which are among the most delicate and richest of cold dishes.

They may also be used as a garnishing ingredient, in the form of collops or mousseline quenelles. Finally, they may also be served as hot entrées.

When a whole foie gras is to be served hot, it must first be trimmed, studded with raw truffles which have been previously peeled, quartered, seasoned with salt and pepper, stiffened in a glassful of brandy, together with a bay-leaf, and cooled in a thoroughly closed terrine.

When the foie gras has been studded with truffles, wrap it in thin slices of bacon or a piece of pig’s caul, and set it in a thoroughly-sealed terrine before cooking it.

The best way to cook foie gras, when it is to be served whole and hot, is to bake it in a crust of paste that can absorb the excess of grease produced by the melting of the liver. For this purpose prepare two layers of patty paste, a little larger than the liver.

On one of these layers, set the liver wrapped in slices of bacon; and, if possible, surround it with whole fair-sized truffles, peeled. Set half a bay-leaf on the liver; moisten the edges of the paste; cover the whole with the other layer of paste; seal it down with the thumb, and fold over the edges of the paste to form a regular, ornamented border which, besides finishing off the preparation, also increases the strength of the welding.

Gild the top; streak; make a slit in the top for the escape of the steam; and, in the case of a medium-sized liver, cook in a good, moderate oven for from forty to forty-five minutes.

Serve this crust as it stands, and send the garnish separately.

In the dining-room, the waiter in charge removes the top of the crust, cuts out the liver with a spoon, setting a piece on each plate, and arranges around each piece the garnish mentioned on the menu.

I am not partial to the cooking of foie gras in a terrine when it is to be served hot. In any case the method described above strikes me as being much the best, whatever be the garnish that is served with the liver.

I particularly recommend a garnish of noodles, macaroni, lazagnes, spaghetti and even rice, with hot foie gras.

These pastes should simply be cooked in water and finished with cream.

This accompaniment makes the foie gras much more digestible and palatable. The best garnishes for hot foie gras, besides those given above, are truffles, whole or in slices, or a Financière. In the matter of brown sauces, a Madeira sauce suits admirably, provided it be of great delicacy and not overcharged with Madeira; but a very light buttered, veal or chicken glaze, combined with a little old Sherry or old Port, is even superior. A Hongroise sauce with paprika or an excellent suprême sauce may also be served when the garnish admits of it.

1727—FOIE GRAS CUIT DANS UNE BRIOCHE

For this dish the foie gras is cooked differently; the result is almost the same as that yielded by the crust prescribed above, except that it is much more delicate. This method, moreover, allows of obtaining a foie gras clear of all grease (the latter being completely absorbed by the paste), and is therefore best suited to cold dishing.

After having studded the foie gras with truffles and placed it in a closed terrine as above, wrap it in slices of bacon, set it to poach in a moderate oven for twenty minutes, and leave it to cool.

Line a buttered timbale-mould, of a size in proportion to that of the liver, with a thick layer of ordinary unsugared brioche paste (No. 2370).

Put the foie gras upright in the mould, which it should almost fill; close the timbale with a cover of the same paste; make a slit in the top; surround the top of the mould with a band of strong, buttered paper, that the paste may be prevented from running over, and let it rest for about thirty minutes in a temperature of 86° F. to allow the paste to work.

Bake in a rather hot oven, until a needle inserted through the centre withdraws quite clean.

Serve the dish as it stands with one of the ordinary foie-gras garnishes.

1728—ESCALOPES DE FOIE GRAS A LA PÉRIGUEUX

Cut some slices two and one-half oz. in weight from a raw foie gras. Season them with salt and pepper; dip in beaten egg; roll in finely-chopped truffle, and sauté in clarified butter.

Dish in a circle, and, in the middle, pour a Madeira sauce flavoured with truffle essence.

1729—ESCALOPES DE FOIE GRAS A LA RAVIGNAN

From a layer of unsugared brioche paste, one-third in. thick, cut twenty roundels two and one-half in. in diameter. On ten of these roundels, spread a coating of chicken forcemeat, leaving a margin one-third in. wide of bare paste on each roundel.

Set a slice of truffle in the middle, a thick roundel of raw foie gras on the truffle, another slice of truffle upon that, a coat of forcemeat over the whole; and cover with the ten remaining roundels, after having slightly moistened the latter, that the two edges of paste may be sealed. Press with the back of a round cutter; gild, and cook in a hot oven for fifteen minutes.

Dish in a circle, and serve a Périgueux sauce at the same time.

1730—ESCALOPES DE FOIE GRAS A LA TALLEYRAND

Prepare: (1) a crust made in a flawn-mould, six in. in diameter; (2) a garnish of blanched macaroni, cut into lengths of one in., cohered with four oz. of grated Gruyère and Parmesan cheese per lb. of macaroni, and combined with two oz. of butter, four oz. of a julienne of truffles and four oz. of foie gras cut into large dice.

Dish in a circle in the crust ten collops of foie gras sautéd in butter, alternating them with fine slices of truffle. Put the macaroni in the middle, shaping it like a dome, sprinkle with grated cheese and glaze quickly.

Dish on a napkin, and serve separately a clear chicken glaze, flavoured with truffles and well buttered.

1731—SOUFFLÉ DE FOIE GRAS

Rub two-thirds lb. of foie gras and three and one-half oz. of raw truffles through a fine sieve. Mix the two purées in a basin, and add two-thirds lb. of raw chicken-meat, pounded with the whites of four eggs, and rubbed through a fine sieve. Season; work the preparation on ice, and add to it, little by little, one-half pint of rich, thick, and very fresh cream, then the well-stiffened whites of four eggs.

Dish in a buttered soufflé saucepan, and poach under cover in the bain-marie for from thirty to thirty-five minutes.

Serve a Madeira sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, separately.

1732—TIMBALE DE FOIE GRAS A L’ALSACIENNE

Prepare an ordinary timbale crust. When about to serve, fill it with layers of noodles with cream, separated by alternate layers of foie-gras collops, sautéd in butter, and slices of truffles. Complete with some raw noodles, tossed in butter and distributed over the last layer of cohered noodles.

Cover the timbale, and serve a suprême sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, separately.

1733—TIMBALE DE FOIE GRAS CAMBACÉRÈS

Line a buttered dome-mould with rings of large poached macaroni.

These rings should be one-fifth inch thick, and should be garnished inside with very black truffle purée, cohered by means of a little forcemeat.

When the mould is lined, coat it inside with a layer of chicken forcemeat combined with truffle purée. Put the mould for a few minutes in a moderate oven, that the forcemeat may poach.

Reduce one-third pint of Béchamel sauce, combined with four to five tablespoonfuls of truffle and chicken essence, to half; mix therewith one-half lb. of poached macaroni, cut into lengths of one inch, and four tablespoonfuls of foie-gras and truffle purée, made from trimmings. Mix the whole thoroughly.

Garnish the timbale with this macaroni, spreading it in layers, separated by other alternate layers of foie-gras collops, poached in Madeira, and slices of truffle. Cover the garnish with a layer of forcemeat, and poach in the bain-marie, allowing forty-five minutes for a quart-mould.

Let the mould stand for a few minutes before emptying it; turn out the timbale upon a round dish; surround it with a border of Périgueux sauce, and serve a sauceboat of Périgueux sauce separately.

1734—TIMBALE DE FOIE GRAS MONTESQUIEU

Spread a very even layer, one-third inch thick, of chicken forcemeat upon a sheet of buttered paper. Moisten the surface with some white of egg; sprinkle with chopped truffle, and press on the latter by means of the flat of a knife.

Set to poach gently; cool, and then stamp out with a round, even cutter, one inch in diameter. With the resulting roundels, garnish the bottom and sides of a Charlotte mould, placing their truffled sides against the mould. Then, with the view of binding these roundels together, as they are to constitute the outside of the timbale, coat the whole of the mould inside with some fairly firm chicken forcemeat, combined with a quarter of its bulk of foie-gras purée.

Fill the mould with a foie-gras Parfait with truffles cut into very large dice and cohered by means of mousseline chicken forcemeat.

Cover the whole with a layer of the same forcemeat as that used for the purpose of binding the roundels, and set to poach under cover.

Turn out, following the same precautions as above; surround the timbale with a border of nice, pink, Hungarian sauce with paprika, and send a sauceboat of this sauce to the table at the same time.

Foie Gras Froid

1735—ASPIC DE FOIE GRAS

Clothe an even or ornamented mould (fitted with a central tube) with aspic, and decorate it with poached white of egg and truffle. Fill it with rows of well-trimmed foie-gras rectangles, or shells raised by means of a spoon dipped in hot water, separating each row with a coat of aspic.

Except for its principal ingredient, which may vary, the preparation of aspic is always the same as that described under “Aspic de Homard” (No. 954).

For the turning out and dishing, proceed in exactly the same way.

1736—FOIE GRAS GASTRONOME

Take a plain foie-gras Parfait, i.e., one without a crust; trim it neatly to the shape of an egg, and completely cover it with a chaud-froid sauce with paprika. Decorate it according to fancy, and glaze it with cold melted jelly.

Cut out a crust, proportionate in size to the egg, and shape it like a cushion. Coat it with a chaud-froid sauce of a different colour; deck it with softened butter, applied by means of a piping-bag fitted with a narrow, grooved pipe; set it on the dish, and place the foie-gras egg upon it.

Surround the cushion with fine fair-sized truffles, glazed with aspic jelly.

1737—FOIE GRAS AU PAPRIKA

Trim a fine, fresh foie gras; salt it; sprinkle it with a coffeespoonful of paprika; put it into a saucepan with a large sliced Spanish onion and a bay-leaf, and cook in the oven for thirty minutes.

This done, set it instantly in an oval terrine, after having carefully removed every bit of onion; cover it with its own grease; fill up the terrine with jelly, and leave to cool.

Keep in the cool until ready for serving.

N.B.—In Vienna, where this dish is usually served as a hors-d’œuvre, with baked potatoes, the onion is not removed. The foie gras is left to cool in the terrine in which it has cooked, with all its grease, and it is served thus, very cold.

This piece of information was kindly given to me by Madame Katinka.

1738—ESCALOPES DE FOIE GRAS MARÉCHALE

From a terrine of very firm foie gras cut the required number of collops, giving them an oval shape. Make a preparation of “pain de foie gras” (No. 1741) with the remains of the terrine, and cover the collops with the preparation, shaping the latter in a dome upon them. Coat these garnished collops with cream chaud-froid sauce; decorate with a slice of truffle, and glaze with aspic.

With some foie-gras purée prepare some balls (of the shape of bigaroons); in the centre of each place a little ball of truffle in imitation of the stone of the fruit, and coat them with a reddish-brown, chaud-froid sauce. This done, glaze them with jelly.

Dish the collops round a circular cushion, set upon a very cold dish; arrange the bigaroons in a pyramid on the cushion, and border the dish with fine, jelly croûtons.

1739—MOUSSE DE FOIE GRAS

For the preparation of the mousse, see No. 814. The procedure and the quantities are always the same, and only the principal ingredient changes. The moulding is also effected in the same way in a jelly-clothed and decorated mould, generally just large enough to hold the requisite amount for one service, or in a silver timbale, incrusted in ice.

1740—MOUSSELINES DE FOIE GRAS

I have oftentimes explained that the substance is the same from which mousses and mousselines are prepared, and I have pointed out wherein the difference between them lies.

Just like the other mousselines, those of foie gras are made in egg- or quenelle-moulds, or others of the same kind. Foie-gras mousselines are, according to circumstances, either simply glazed with aspic, or coated with chaud-froid sauce and dished in a timbale with jelly. They may also be moulded in little paper cases.

1741—PAIN DE FOIE GRAS

From a cold foie gras, braised in Madeira, cut a few collops and put them aside. Clear the cooking-liquor of all grease, reduce to half, and add the yolks of four eggs and one-half lb. of butter, proceeding as for a Hollandaise sauce. Complete with a grilled, crushed, hazel-nut, two leaves of dissolved gelatine, and, when the preparation is only lukewarm, mix therewith (without working the whole overmuch) what remains of the foie gras, rubbed through a sieve.

Spread this preparation in layers in an aspic-clothed and decorated mould, separating each layer with other alternate layers consisting of the reserved collops and some slices of truffle.

Cover the last layer with aspic, and set the mould in a refrigerator for a few hours.

When about to serve, turn out, and border the dish with fine, aspic jelly croûtons.

1742—PARFAIT DE FOIE GRAS

Fresh foies gras do not bear transport very well, and, when sent from a distance, often reach their destination tainted. It is, therefore, difficult, whatever care may have been bestowed on their preparation, to obtain the results which are achieved by manufacturers who are renowned for this kind of produce. Consequently, it is preferable to buy the Parfait of foie gras ready-made from a good firm rather than to try to make it oneself.

1743—PAVÉ DE FOIE GRAS LUCULLUS

Let a coat of aspic, one-half inch thick, set on the bottom of a square timbale, and lay thereon a few slices of truffle. Upon this jelly spread a layer, two-thirds inch thick, of foie-gras purée, thinned by means of a little melted jelly. When this purée has set, lay on it a few foie-gras collops and slices of truffle; cover with aspic, and continue thus with alternate layers of purée, collops, and aspic. Fill up the mould with a layer of aspic jelly; put it in the refrigerator for a few hours, and dish on a block of ice, cut to the shape of a flagstone.

1744—TIMBALE DE FOIE GRAS TZARINE

Line a timbale-mould with ordinary patty paste, and cover the inside all over with slices of larding bacon. Just in the middle set a fresh foie gras, seasoned with salt, pepper, and allspice; surround it with quails stuffed with a piece of truffle, and set upright with their breasts against the slices of bacon. Fill up the mould with whole, raw, and peeled truffles; cover the whole with a round slice of the same bacon; cover the timbale with a layer of paste, well sealed down round the edges; make a slit in the top for the escape of steam, and bake in a good, moderate oven for one and one-quarter hours.

On withdrawing the timbale from the oven, pour into it some succulent veal stock, flavoured with Madeira, and sufficiently gelatinous to form a nice jelly.

Keep the timbale in the cool for one or two days before serving it.

Ducks and Ducklings (Canards et Canetons)

Three varieties of the duck family are recognised in cookery, viz., the Nantes duck, the Rouen duck, and the different kinds of wild duck. The latter are generally used for roasts and in salmis.

The Rouen duck is also served more often as a roast than as an entrée. The characteristic trait of its preparation lies in its being kept very underdone, and it is very rarely braised. It is killed by suffocation, and not by bleeding, which is the usual mode of killing other birds.

The Nantes duck, which is similar to the Aylesbury one, is not so fleshy as the Rouen duck, and may be roasted, poëled, or braised.

1745—CANETON NANTAIS A LA CHOUCROÛTE

Take a piece of manied butter the size of an egg, and insert it into the duckling with chopped parsley and shallots. Truss the bird as for an entrée; brown it in the oven, and put it in a stewpan already lined for braising.

Moisten, just enough to cover, with white veal stock and Rhine wine (in the proportion of two-thirds of the former to one-third of the latter), or ordinary good white wine, and braise slowly until cooking is completed.

Meanwhile, braise in the usual way two lbs. of sauerkraut with one-half lb. of salted breast of pork.

When it is three-parts done, drain it, and complete its cooking with one-third pint of veal gravy and one-sixth pint of white wine, until this moistening is completely reduced.

Set the sauerkraut in a border round a dish, and surround it with the pork cut into small rectangles. Place the carved duck in the centre, and coat it moderately with half-glaze sauce combined with the reduced braising-liquor. Send the remains of this sauce separately.

1746—CANETON D’AYLESBURY POËLÉ A LA MENTHE

Stuff the duckling with one oz. of butter combined with a pinch of chopped mint, and poële it. Dish it; swill the stewpan with one-sixth pint of clear, veal gravy and a little lemon juice; strain, add a pinch of chopped mint, and pour this sauce over the duckling.

1747—CANETON MOLIÈRE

Bone the duckling, and stuff it with one lb. of gratin foie-gras forcemeat, combined with two-thirds lb. of good sausage-meat. Set two rows of truffles in the middle of the thickest part of the forcemeat, lengthwise, along the duckling. Reconstruct; sew up the skin, wrap in a serviette, after the manner of a galantine, and poach in a stock made from the carcass.

Glaze the duckling with some of this stock, strained, cleared of all grease, and reduced. With what remains prepare a Madeira sauce, and add thereto two oz. of sliced truffles.

Dish the duckling, after having removed all stitches from it, and coat it with this sauce.

1748—CANETON BRAISÉ

Brown the duckling well in butter, and withdraw it from the saucepan.

Drain away the butter; swill with a little white wine; add two-thirds pint of brown stock, as much Espagnole, and a faggot; return the duck to this sauce, and braise gently.

With the reserved butter brown one lb. of turnips, shaped like elongated garlic-cloves, and sprinkle them with a large pinch of powdered sugar, that they may be glazed to a nice, light brown colour. Also have ready twenty small onions, which should have been gently cooked in butter.

When the duckling is half cooked, transfer it to another saucepan; put the turnips and the onions round it; strain the sauce over the whole, and complete the cooking gently.

Dish with the garnish of turnips and onions, arranged round the bird.

1749—CANETON AUX OLIVES

Prepare the duckling as above, and keep the sauce short and succulent. A few minutes before serving, add one-half lb. of stoned and blanched olives. Glaze the duckling at the last moment, and dish it surrounded with the olives and the sauce.

1750—CANETON BRAISÉA L’ORANGE

This braised duckling must not be confused with roast duckling, which is also served “a l’orange,” for the two dishes are quite distinct.

As in the case of the roast, this duckling may be prepared with Seville oranges; but, in this case, the sections of orange must not appear as garnish, owing to their bitterness, and only the juice is used for the sauce.

Braise the duckling in one-third pint of brown stock and two-thirds pint of Espagnole sauce, and cook it sufficiently to allow of its being cut with a spoon.

Clear the sauce of grease; reduce it to a stiff consistence; rub it through tammy, and add the juice of two oranges and one half-lemon to it, which should bring the sauce back to its original consistence.

Now add a julienne of the blanched yellow part only of the rind of a half-orange and a half-lemon, but remember that the addition of the juice and rind of the orange and the half-lemon only takes place at the last moment, after which the sauce must not boil again. Glaze the duckling, dish it, coat it slightly with sauce, and surround it with sections of orange, skinned raw.

Serve what remains of the sauce separately.

1751—CANETON AUX PETITS POIS

Brown in butter six oz. of salted breast of pork, cut into large dice and blanched, and fifteen small onions. Drain the pork and the onions, and set the duckling to fry in the same butter. When it is well coloured, remove the butter; swill with a little brown stock, and add one-half pint of thin, half-glaze sauce, one and one-half pints of fresh peas, one faggot, the pork dice and the onions, and complete the cooking of the whole gently.

Dish the duckling, and cover it with the garnish and the sauce, after having withdrawn the faggot therefrom and reduced the sauce so that it only just covers the garnish.

1752—PÂTÉ

Roast the duckling, keeping it somewhat underdone, and cut the whole of the breast into long collops or very thin slices. Line a buttered Charlotte mould with short paste, and cover the whole of the inside with a layer of gratin forcemeat (No. 202), combined with four tablespoonfuls of very reduced half-glaze sauce per one and two-thirds lb. of forcemeat—the necessary quantity for this pie.

On the layer of forcemeat arrange a litter of the slices of breast; sliced, cooked mushrooms, and slices of truffle; and fill the mould in this way, taking care to alternate the layers of forcemeat, slices of breast, &c. Complete with a coat of forcemeat, upon which sprinkle a pinch of powdered thyme and bay-leaf; close the mould with a thin layer of paste, sealed down round the edges; make a slit in the top; gild, and bake in a moderate oven for one hour.

When taking the pie out of the oven, turn it upside-down on a dish; detach the base; cut the latter into triangles, and set these triangles round the pie. Cover the forcemeat, thus bared, with a few tablespoonfuls of Madeira sauce; set a large, grooved, cooked mushroom just in the middle, and surround it with a crown of sliced truffle.

Serve a Madeira sauce separately.

1753—BALLOTINES DE CANETON

Bone the duckling, and completely clear the bones of all meat.

Remove all tendons from the latter, and chop it, together with half its weight of veal, as much fresh pork fat, a third as much panada (No. 190), the yolks of four eggs, one-half oz. of salt, and a little pepper and nutmeg. Pound; rub through a sieve, and mix with this forcemeat, three oz. of gratin foie-gras forcemeat and three oz. of chopped mushrooms, sautéd in butter. Divide up into portions weighing two oz.; wrap each portion in a piece of the duckling’s skin; envelop in muslin, and poach in a stock prepared from the duckling’s carcass. At the last moment, remove the pieces of muslin and glaze the ballotines.

Dish in a circle, and set the selected garnish, which may be turnips, peas, olives, or sauerkraut, &c., in the middle.

1754—CANETON ROUENNAIS

Except for the one case when they are served cold “à la cuiller,” Rouen ducklings are not braised: they are roasted and always kept underdone. When they have to be stuffed, the forcemeat is prepared as follows:—Fry four oz. of larding bacon, cut into dice, with one oz. of chopped onion, and add one-half lb. of sliced ducks’ livers, a pinch of chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and a little spice.

Keep the livers underdone, merely stiffened; let the whole half-cool; pound, and rub through a fine sieve.

1755—AIGUILLETTES DE ROUENNAIS A LA BIGARRADE

Poële the duckling and only just cook it, bearing in mind that twenty minutes is the time allowed for cooking a fair-sized bird. Remove the fillets lengthwise, each in ten slices, and set the latter on a lukewarm dish.

Add a few tablespoonfuls of veal gravy to the poëling-liquor; set to boil for a few minutes; strain clear of grease, and finish as directed under sauce Bigarrade claire (No.

Cover the slices of breast with some of the sauce, and serve the remainder separately. “Aiguillettes” (or thin slices of breast cut lengthwise) à l’orange are prepared in the same way, except that they are surrounded with sections of orange, skinned raw.

1756—AIGUILLETTES DE ROUENNAIS AUX CERISES

Prepare the duckling as above, but add a little Madeira to the braising-liquor. Clear the latter of grease; thicken with arrowroot; strain through muslin, and add one-half lb. of stoned morello cherries, at the last moment. Set the cherries round the aiguillettes; coat the latter thinly with sauce, and serve what remains of the latter, separately.

1757—AIGUILLETTES DE ROUENNAIS AUX TRUFFES

Poële the duckling, and only just cook it.

Add one-sixth pint of Chambertin wine to the poëling-liquor, and cook therein five medium-sized, peeled truffles. This done, reduce the liquor, clear of grease, strain it, and add it to a somewhat light Rouennaise sauce.

Raise the duckling’s aiguillettes, slice the truffles, and set on a lukewarm dish, alternating the aiguillettes with the slices of truffle.

Coat thinly with sauce, and send what remains of the latter separately.

1758—CANETON ROUENNAIS AU CHAMPAGNE

Poële the duckling as above.

Add one-half pint of dry Saint Marceaux champagne to the poëling-liquor; reduce, and complete with one-sixth pint of thickened, veal stock.

Strain this sauce through muslin; clear it of grease, and send it in a sauceboat at the same time as the duckling.

1759—CANETON ROUENNAIS EN CHEMISE

Stuff the duckling with the preparation given under No. 1754; truss it as for an entrée; insert it into a well-soaked bladder, and string the end of the latter close to the bird’s tail. Wrap the bladder in a napkin, also strung, and poach gently for about forty-five minutes in a very strong brown stock. When about to serve, remove the napkin, and leave the duckling in the bladder.

Serve a Rouennaise sauce as an accompaniment.

1760—CANETON ROUENNAIS AU PORTO

Roast the duckling “en casserole,” keeping it only just done.

Swill with one-fifth pint of port wine; reduce to half, and add this reduced swilling-liquor to one-half pint of duckling gravy, thickened with arrowroot.

1761—CANETON ROUENNAIS A LA PRESSE

Roast the duckling for twenty minutes, and send it instantly to the table, where it should be treated as follows:—Remove the legs, which are not served; carve the fillets into fine slices, laid one against the other on a lukewarm dish.

Chop up the carcass and press it, sprinkling it the while with a glassful of good red wine. Collect the gravy; add thereto a few drops of brandy, and with this liquor sprinkle the slices of breast, which should have been well seasoned.

Put the dish on a chafer, and thoroughly heat without allowing to boil.

Serve instantly.

1762—CANETON FARCI A LA ROUENNAISE

Stuff the duckling with the forcemeat given under No. 1754, and roast it before a fierce fire for from twenty-five to thirty minutes, according to its size.

Send a Rouennaise sauce to the table with it.

If it be served carved, remove the legs, cisel them inside, season them well with salt and pepper, and grill them.

Cut the fillets into thin slices, set these on either side of a long dish, and, in the middle, place the forcemeat withdrawn from the inside.

Set the grilled legs at either end of the dish.

Roughly chop up the carcass and press it, sprinkling it the while with a glass of liqueur-brandy and a few drops of lemon juice. Add the collected gravy to the Rouennaise sauce: coat the slices of breast thinly with sauce, and serve what remains of the sauce separately.

1763—SALMIS DE CANETON A LA ROUENNAISE

After having suppressed the clavicle, truss the duckling.

Put it in a red oven, where it should only stay eight minutes, i.e., four minutes each side.

If possible, let it cool for a few minutes, that it may be more easily carved. Take care, also, to wipe it, for, as a rule, the fierceness of the oven blackens it. Remove the legs; cisel them inside; season and grill them.

Sprinkle a long, buttered dish with chopped shallots, kitchen salt not too finely powdered, freshly-ground pepper, nutmeg, and allspice.

Cut the fillets into very thin slices lengthwise, fifteen from each fillet, and set them one against the other on the dish. Sprinkle them with the same seasoning as that lying on the dish, except for the shallots.

Remove the remaining stumps of the wings, as also the small, remaining skin of the breast; season both, and set them to grill by the side of the legs. Roughly chop up the carcass; press it while sprinkling it with half a glassful of red wine, and sprinkle the slices of breast with the collected gravy.

When about to serve, set a few small pieces of butter on the slices of breast; heat for a moment on the stove, and put the dish in a very hot oven, or at the salamander, that the glazing may be instantaneous.

Withdraw the dish the moment the edges of the aiguillettes begin to curl, set the grilled legs at either end of the dish, the two wing-stumps, with the skin of the breast, in the middle, and serve immediately.

1764—SOUFFLÉ DE CANETON ROUENNAIS

Poële the duckling, and only just cook it.

Raise the suprêmes, and keep them hot, and cut the bones from the carcass in such a way as to imitate a case, as I described in a number of pullet recipes. With the duckling’s liver, the raw meat of another half-duckling, the white of an egg, and three oz. of raw foie gras, prepare a mousseline forcemeat.

Fill the carcass with this forcemeat, shaping it so as to reconstruct the bird. Surround it with a band of strong, buttered paper, so as to avoid loss of shape, and poach gently, under cover, for twenty minutes.

With some reserved forcemeat, combined with an equal weight of foie-gras purée, garnish some tartlet crusts, and poach them at the same time as the soufflé.

Dish the piece; surround it with the tartlets; set a collop of suprême on each of the latter and serve a Rouennaise sauce separately.

Canetons Froids

1765—CANETON A LA CUILLER

Braise the duckling with Madeira, and cook it well. Put into a terrine just large enough to hold it; cover with the braising-liquor, strained through a napkin, and combined with enough aspic jelly to completely coat the duckling. Leave to cool.

When about to serve, clear the surface of grease, first by means of a spoon, then with boiling water, and dish on a napkin.

1766—CANETON GLACÉ AUX MANDARINES

Poële the duckling, and let it cool in its liquor.

When it is quite cold, set it on its back; glaze it with aspic jelly, and place it on a low rice or carved-bread cushion lying on a long dish.

Surround it with emptied tangerines, filled with cold mousse made from ducklings’ livers and foie gras. Alternate the tangerines with small timbales of aspic, combined with the poëling-liquor and the juice squeezed from the sections of the tangerines.

1767—CANETON GLACÉ AUX CERISES

Roast the duckling, and keep it underdone.

When it is quite cold, remove the breast, and remove the bones in such wise as to form a case with the carcass. Cut each fillet into eight thin slices; coat them with a brown chaud-froid sauce, and decorate with truffles. Fill the carcass with a mousse made from the remains of the meat, the duckling’s liver, and some foie gras, and shape it so as to imitate the convex breast of the bird.

Glaze with aspic, and set in the refrigerator, that the mousse may harden. When the latter is firm, lay the chaud-froid-coated collops upon it, and set the piece in a deep, square dish. Surround with cold, stoned, morello cherries, poached in Bordeaux wine, and cover these with an aspic jelly flavoured with duckling essence.

1768—AIGUILLETTES DE CANETONS A L’ÉCARLATE