Part 2 — CHAPTER XV RELEVÉS AND ENTRÉES (continued 2)

Set these chartreuses to poach thirty-five minutes before serving, and take care to let them rest for five minutes before unmoulding them on either side of the saddle.

1183—SELLE DE VEAU A LA METTERNICH

Braise the saddle, and, when it is ready, put it on a dish. Now draw a line within one-half inch of its extreme edge on either side and end, pressing the point of a small knife along the meat in so doing.

Proceed in the same way on either side of the chine, and remove the fillets from the joint, severing them from the bone with care.

Cut the fillets into regular collops, keeping the knife somewhat at a slant.

In the double cavity left by the fillets spread a few tablespoonfuls of Béchamel with paprika; return the colloped fillets to their respective places in the joint, reconstructing them in such wise as to make them appear untouched; and between the collops pour one-half tablespoonful of Béchamel and lay two slices of truffle.

This done, cover the whole surface of the joint with Béchamel sauce with paprika, and set to glaze quickly at the salamander. Now, with a large slice, carefully transfer the saddle to a dish.

Serve separately (1) the braising-liquor of the saddle, cleared of all grease and reduced; (2) a timbale of pilaff rice.

1184—SELLE DE VEAU A LA NELSON

Braise the saddle. When it is ready, remove the fillets, proceeding exactly as described under “Selle à la Metternich,” and cut the fillets in a similar manner.

In the cavities left by the fillets spread a few tablespoonfuls of Soubise; return the colloped fillets to their place, and, between the collops, place a thin slice of ham, of the same size and shape as the adjacent piece of meat, and a little Soubise sauce.

Having reconstructed the joint, cover its surface with a layer, about one inch thick, of “Soufflé au Parmesan,” combined with one quart of truffle purée.

Bind the joint with a strong band of buttered paper, for the purpose of holding in the soufflé, and set it to cook in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes. After having taken the saddle out of the oven, remove the paper band, and send it to the table without changing the dish.

Send the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced and strained, to the table separately.

1185—SELLE DE VEAU A L’ORIENTALE

Braise the saddle; remove the fillets, and cut them into collops as for “Selle à la Metternich.” Garnish the cavities with Soubise sauce “au currie”; reconstruct the fillets, putting a little of the same sauce between the collops, and coat the surface of the piece with the sauce already referred to.

Surround the joint with braised celery, and serve its cooking liquor and a timbale of pilaff rice separately.

1186—SELLE DE VEAU A LA PIÉMONTAISE

Braise the saddle, and cut the fillets into collops as before. When reconstructing the fillets, between the collops put a little Béchamel sauce, combined with three and one-half oz. of grated Parmesan and three and one-half oz. of grated white truffles per quart of the sauce.

Coat the surface of the joint with the same sauce, and set to glaze quickly.

Serve the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease and strained, separately; as also a timbale of rizotto à la Piémontaise (No. 2258).

1187—SELLE DE VEAU PRINCE ORLOFF

Braise the saddle and proceed as above, placing between the collops of fillet a little Soubise sauce and a fine slice of truffle.

Coat the surface of the joint with Mornay sauce, combined with one quart of highly-seasoned Soubise, and set to glaze quickly.

N.B.—This saddle may be accompanied either by a garnish of asparagus-heads or by cucumbers with cream.

1188—SELLE DE VEAU A LA ROMANOFF

Braise the saddle; remove the fillets, and cut the latter into collops as for “Selle à la Metternich.” Reconstruct the fillets, placing a small quantity of minced mushrooms, cohered by means of a few tablespoonfuls of cream, between the collops, and coat the surface of the joint with highly-seasoned Béchamel sauce, finished with four oz. of crayfish butter per quart.

Surround the piece with a border of braised half-fennels. Serve the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced and strained, separately.

1189—SELLE DE VEAU A LA TOSCA

Braise the saddle, and then prepare it as for No. 1183. Almost completely fill the cavities left by the fillets with a garnish of macaroni, cut into short lengths, cohered with cream, and combined with a julienne of truffles.

Reconstruct the fillets upon this garnish and coat the collops with Mornay sauce, placing a slice of truffle between the collops. The reconstructed fillets thus appear raised on either side of the chine.

Coat the surface of the joint with the same sauce as that already used, and set to glaze quickly. Send the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease and strained, to the table separately.

1190—SELLE DE VEAU A LA RENAISSANCE

Braise the saddle, and glaze it at the last moment. Dish it and surround it with a large heap of cauliflower at either end; on either side, nice heaps of carrots and turnips, raised by means of an oval, grooved spoon-cutter, cooked in consommé and glazed; peas; French beans in lozenge-form; asparagus-heads cohered with butter; and some small potatoes cooked in butter.

Send the braising-liquor of the joint, cleared of grease and strained, separately.

1191—SELLE DE VEAU A LA TALLEYRAND

Prepare twenty studs of truffle, about one inch long and one-third oz. in weight. Stick them upright and symmetrically into the meat of the joint, making way for them by means of little incisions cut with a small knife. Now envelop the joint in slices of larding bacon, string it, braise it, and glaze it at the last moment.

Dish it with some of its braising-liquor, cleared of all grease and reduced.

Serve separately (1) what remains of the braising-liquor; (2) a garnish of macaroni, cut into half-inch lengths, cohered with one and one-half oz. of butter, three oz. of grated Gruyère and Parmesan, combined with three oz. of foie gras, cut into large dice, and three oz. of a julienne of truffles, per lb. of macaroni.

1192—SELLE DE VEAU FROIDE

Cold saddle of veal makes an excellent sideboard dish which admits of all cold-dish garnishes, such as Macédoines of vegetables cohered with jelly or mayonnaise sauce; artichoke-bottoms and tomatoes, variously garnished; small, moulded vegetable salads, &c.

Decorate it with fine, regular, jelly dice; but its usual and essential adjunct is its own braising-liquor, cooked, cleared of grease poured carefully away, and served in a sauceboat without having been either clarified or cleared.

All the pieces of veal given as relevés, the cushion, the loin, the fillet, and the fricandeau, may be served cold like the saddle, and are generally much appreciated, more particularly in summer.

1193—LOIN OF VEAL

1194—NECK OF VEAL

1195—SHORT LOIN OF VEAL

1196—CHUMP OF VEAL OR QUASI

1197—CUSHION OF VEAL (Relevés)

I have grouped these various Relevés together owing to the identicalness of their garnishes.

The directions I give below for cushion of veal are, with a very few exceptions which I shall point out, applicable to all other large veal joints. In the circumstances, therefore, it would be quite unnecessary to repeat the recipe in each case.

Loin of Veal is that piece which corresponds with the sirloin in beef. It extends from the floating ribs to the extreme end of the haunch, the latter being cut flush with the pelvic bone at its junction with the femur, and following the direction of the former bone. The loin thus consists of two distinct parts:—(1) the caudal region (called the chump end; Fr. quasi), which comprises the bones of the pelvis and the haunch, up to the level of the latter, and is one of the best pieces of veal for braising; and (2) the region extending from the haunch to the floating ribs, comprising the fillet and the upper fillet. This last portion also constitutes a choice joint, to which the kidneys are generally left attached, after all their superfluous fat has been removed.

Neck or Best End of Veal consists of the first eight or nine ribs, cut two inches above the kernel of meat. The ends of the rib-bones are cleared of meat to a height of about two-thirds inch, and the naked bone is then called the “handle” of the cutlet, which ultimately holds the ornamental frill of paper.

The vertebræ are then suppressed, so that the bones of the ribs alone remain; the yellow ligament is cut away; and the bared parts are covered with slices of bacon, tied on by means of string.

Cushion of Veal consists of an enormous muscle, which represents almost half of the haunch and all the inside part of it, from the pelvis to its junction with the tibia. A certain quantity of white fat will always be found to lie over the cushion, and it should be carefully reserved.

If the cushion is to be larded, a procedure which I do not advise, it should be done on the bared part adjoining the fat-covered region.

The various pieces of veal enumerated above may be roasted, but, as in the case of the saddle, I prefer braising, owing to the greater succulence of the dish resulting from this process, and its accompanying gravy, which has an incomparable flavour. (See Braising of White Meats, No. 248.)

1198—ADJUNCTS TO CUSHION OF VEAL

Cushion of veal, like the other large pieces of veal, admits of an almost unlimited number of vegetable garnishes, simple or compound, as also garnishes of various pastes.

From among these garnishes the following may be quoted, viz.:—Bouquetière, Bourgeoise, Chartreuse, Choisy, Chicorée, Cardoons, Clamart, Braised Celery, Japanese Artichokes, Chow-chow, Endives, Spinach, Braised Lettuce, à la Vichy, à la Nemours, &c.; Jardinière, Macédoine, Renaissance, &c.

Among the paste garnishes:—Noodles, Macaroni, Spaghetti, variously prepared; various Gnocchi, &c.

And, in addition to all these, the garnishes already given under Beef Relevés, which need not be repeated here.

I shall, therefore, give only three recipes which are proper to cushion of veal; though even these should be regarded as mere curiosities, seeing that, far from recommending them, I consider them rather as gastronomical mistakes. But some provision must be made for outlandish tastes, and, for this reason alone, I include the following recipes.

1199—NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE

Braise the cushion of veal, keeping it somewhat firm. This done, set it on a dish, and let it almost cool.

Then cut a slice from it laterally, at a point one-third inch of its height from the top; and, within one-half inch of its edges, make a circular incision, pressing the point of a sharp knife into the meat, and withdraw the centre of the cushion. Take care to leave the same thickness of meat on the sides as on the bottom, that is to say, about one-half inch. The cushion of veal, thus emptied, should have the appearance of a round or oval case.

If the meat withdrawn from the centre of the cushion is to serve for the garnish, or is to be used sliced to surround the case, cut it from out the whole in the largest possible pieces, in order that slices may easily be cut therefrom.

The inside of the emptied cushion of veal is then garnished according to fancy; the top of the piece that was cut off at the start is returned to its place, with the view of giving the piece an untouched appearance, and the whole is put in the oven for a few minutes that it may be hot for serving.

The braising-liquor, cleared of grease and strained, should be sent to the table separately.

1200—NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE A LA MACÉDOINE

Braise the cushion of veal, and hollow it out as explained above.

Meanwhile (1) prepare a Macédoine garnish, or mixed Jardinière (cohered with butter or cream), the quantity of which should be in proportion to the size of the case; (2) cut the meat, withdrawn from the centre of the cushion, into thin rectangles.

Garnish the bottom of the case with a layer of Macédoine, and set thereon a litter consisting of the rectangles of meat. Cover with Macédoineof meat, and renew the operation until the case is filled. Finish up with a layer of Macédoine.

Replace the slice cut from the cushion at the start; put the case in the oven for a few minutes; serve, and send the braising-liquor separately.

1201—NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE A LA PITHIVIERS

Braise the cushion of veal, and prepare the case as directed above.

Stuff fifteen larks without boning them; that is to say, put a lump of stuffing about the size of a hazel-nut into each. Fry them in butter with one-half lb. of mushrooms and three oz. of truffles, each of which vegetables should be raw and minced. Cohere the whole with the necessary quantity of half-glaze sauce, flavoured with game essence; put this garnish in the case; return the sliced piece to its place; seal the cover to the case by means of a thread of almost liquid forcemeat, and set in the oven for seven or eight minutes.

When taking the case out of the oven, surround with the withdrawn meat, which should have been cut into thin slices and kept warm until required for the dressing.

The larks may be replaced by quails or thrushes, or other small birds, but the name of the particular bird used must be referred to in the title of the dish.

1202—NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE A LA TOULOUSAINE

Braise the cushion and cut it to the shape of a case as explained above. Pour therein a garnish consisting of quenelles of chicken forcemeat; lamb sweetbreads, or collops of veal sweetbreads, braised without colouration; cocks’ combs; small mushrooms, cooked and very white; and slices of truffle; the whole to be cohered by means of an Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom essence.

Return the piece sliced off at the start to its place, and surround with slices of the meat withdrawn from the inside of the cushion.

N.B.—All the garnishes suited to Vol-au-vent and timbales may be served with cushion-of-veal case, which latter thus stands in the stead of the Vol-au-vent and Timbale crusts.

Finally, I must ask the reader to bear in mind that methods like those described above have no place in really good cookery, the ruling principle of which should always be simplicity.

1203—NOIX DE VEAU FROIDE A LA CAUCASIENNE

Cut a cold cushion of veal into slices two inches long by one-half inch wide by one-sixth inch thick.

On each slice spread a little butter seasoned with salt and pepper, combined with finely-chopped chives and anchovy fillets cut into dice.

Couple the slices together as for sandwiches; round off their angles and put them under slight pressure. Prepare a Purée of tomatoes with jelly; mould it in a dome- or Bombe-mould, and let it set on ice.

When this moulding of tomatoes is quite firm, turn it out in the middle of a round, cold dish; arrange the meat slices all round, and border the dish with cubes of very clear veal jelly.

1204—NOIX DE VEAU FROIDE A LA SUÉDOISE

(1) From the widest part of a cold cushion of veal, cut a lateral slice one and one-third inch thick, and trim it nicely round.

(2) Let a coating of aspic jelly set on the bottom of a round dish, and upon this jelly, when it is quite firm, lay the slice of veal.

(3) Cut what remains of the piece of veal into slices two inches long, by one and one-half inch broad, by one-eighth inch thick. Prepare the same number of rectangles of salted tongue, of the same size, though slightly thinner than those of veal.

(4) Cohere a nice vegetable salad with cleared mayonnaise; mould it in an oiled, Bombe-shaped or narrow pyramid mould, and put it on ice to set.

Coat the rectangles of veal with horse-radish butter; place a rectangle of tongue on each, and finish off these sandwiches by rounding their corners.

For Dishing.—By means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe, garnish the edges of the slice of veal with a thread of previously softened butter.

Turn out the vegetable salad in the centre of the piece of meat; set on it the heart of a small lettuce (nicely opened), and arrange the veal and tongue sandwiches all round.

Serve a cold sauce, derived from the mayonnaise, separately.

1205—LONGES, CARRÉS

What was said in respect of cold saddle of veal likewise applies to the different pieces mentioned in the above title. They may be coated with aspic jelly and dished with Macédoines of vegetables, cohered with jelly; small salads, cohered with cleared mayonnaise; garnished artichoke-bottoms, &c.

The dishes should always be bordered with cubes of very clear jelly.

1206—FRICANDEAU (Relevé)

Fricandeau is a lateral cut from the cushion of veal; that is to say, a piece cut with the grain of the meat. It should not be thicker than one and one-half inches.

After beating it with a beater or the flat of a chopper, to break the fibres of the meat, finely lard the piece of meat on the cut side with strips of bacon, somewhat smaller than those used for fillet of beef. Only when the piece is larded may it be called “Fricandeau”; for, when not treated thus, it is nothing else than an ordinary piece of veal. Fricandeau is invariably braised; but it differs from other braisings of white meat in this, namely, that it must be so cooked as to be easily cut with a spoon. Connoisseurs maintain that Fricandeau should never be touched with a knife.

It is glazed at the last moment, like other braisings, and, in view of its prolonged cooking, should be dished with great care.

All the garnishes enumerated for cushion of veal may be adapted to Fricandeau.

1207—FRICANDEAU FROID

Cold fricandeau constitutes an excellent luncheon dish. It is dished and surrounded with its braising-liquor, cleared of grease and strained. This braising-liquor sets to a jelly, and is the finest adjunct to fricandeau that could be found.

The piece may be glazed with half-melted jelly, smeared over it by means of a brush.

1208—POITRINE DE VEAU FARCIE

This is really a family dish, admirably suited for a luncheon relevé. It is accompanied chiefly by vegetable purées, but all the vegetable and other garnishes given under Cushion of Veal may be served with it.

Breast of veal is prepared thus:—After having boned the piece, open it where it is thickest, without touching the ends. A kind of pocket is thus obtained, into which put the previously-prepared stuffing, taking care to spread it very evenly.

Now, with coarse cotton, sew up the opening, and remember to withdraw the cotton when the piece is cooked.

Stuffing for Breast of Veal.—For a piece weighing four lbs., add to one lb. of very fine sausage-meat (No. 196), two oz. of dry duxelles, two oz. of butter, a pinch of chopped parsley, tarragon and chives, a small beaten egg, and a little salt and pepper.

Cooking.—Breast of veal is usually braised; the moistening should be short and the cooking process gentle. For a piece weighing four lbs. when stuffed, allow three hours in a moderate and regular oven. Glaze breast of veal at the last moment, as in the case of other braised meats.

1209—TÊTE DE VEAU (Relevé and Entrée)

Nowadays, calf’s head is rarely served whole, as was the custom formerly. Still more rarely, however, is it served at a dinner of any importance; and it has now, by almost general consent, been relegated to luncheon menus where, indeed, it has found its proper place.

After having boned the head, soak it or hold it under a running tap, for a sufficiently long time to allow of its being entirely cleared of blood. Then, blanch it for a good half-hour; cool it in cold water; drain it, and rub it with a piece of lemon to avoid its blackening.

If it is to be cooked whole, as sometimes happens, wrap it in a napkin, that it may be easily handled; if not, cut it into pieces. In either case, plunge it immediately into a boiling blanc (No. 167).

With a view of keeping the calf’s head from contact with the air, which would blacken it, cover it with a napkin, or cover the liquid with chopped suet. A layer of chopped suet is the best possible means of keeping the air from the calf’s head.

Whatever be the method of serving calf’s head, it is the rule to send slices of tongue and collops of brain to the table with it.

The tongue may be cooked simultaneously with the head, and the brain is poached as described under No. 1289.

1210—TÊTE DE VEAU A L’ANGLAISE

Calf’s head à l’anglaise is cooked in a blanc, as explained above; but in halves and unboned.

Dish it on a napkin with sprays of very green parsley and a piece of boiled bacon.

Send a sauceboat of parsley sauce (No. 119a) to the table at the same time.

1211—TÊTE DE VEAU A LA FINANCIÈRE

Cook the calf’s head in a blanc as already directed. Suppress portions of the meat, where the latter is thick, in such wise as to leave only a very little on the skin.

Cut offput them in a timbale, and cover them with a financière garnish; adding a few small slices of tongue and brain.

1212—TÊTE DE VEAU A LA POULETTE

Cook the calf’s head in a blanc.

Cut the pieces of the head into small slices, somewhat aslant, and toss them into a previously-prepared poulette sauce (No. 101).

Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with a pinch of chopped parsley.

1213—TÊTE DE VEAU EN TORTUE

With a round cutter one, two, or three in. in diameter, cut up the pieces of calf’s head, the meat of which must be entirely suppressed. For this preparation, only the skin of the head should be used.

Put the pieces of head in a timbale or on a dish, and cover them with a Tortue garnish.

Tortue garnish consists of: Small quenelles of veal forcemeat with butter; cock’s combs and kidneys; small mushrooms; stoned, stuffed and poached olives; slices of truffle; gherkins cut to the shape of olives (these should only be put into the sauce at the last moment); and Tortue sauce.

This garnish comprises, besides, among unsauced ingredients: Slices of tongue and calf’s brain; small, trussed crayfish, cooked in court-bouillon; fried eggs, the half of whose raw whites should be suppressed; and small croûtons of bread-crumb, fried in butter at the last moment.

1214—TÊTE DE VEAU A LA VINAIGRETTE OU A L’HUILE

Set the boiling pieces of calf’s head on a napkin, lying on a dish. Surround them with slices of tongue, collops of brain, and sprigs of very green, curled-leaf parsley.

Serve separately, on a hors-d’œuvre dish, without mixing them, capers, chopped onion and parsley.

Send to the table at the same time a sauceboat of vinaigrette or sauce à l’huile, prepared by mixing one part of vinegar, two parts of oil, and one part of the calf’s-head cooking-liquor, together with the necessary salt and pepper.

1215—ESCALOPES DE VEAU

Collops of veal may be cut from either the fillet or the saddle; but they are more often cut from the cushion. Their weight varies from three to four oz., and they should always be cleared of all connective tissue. They may be fashioned to the shape of ovals, or curve-based triangles, and they should be more or less flattened, according to their use. Thus, when they are to be plainly tossed, to be afterwards served with a sauced garnish or with a sauce, they are simply beaten in order to break the fibres of the meat, without flattening the latter too much; but if, on the contrary, they are to be treated à l’anglaise, they should be beaten very thin with the moistened beater.

In either case, they should be cooked somewhat quickly in clarified butter; for, if their cooking lag at all, their meat hardens.

All the garnishes of veal cutlets, and a large number of those of the cushion, may be served with the collops. These garnishes may be set on the same dish with the collops when the latter are plainly tossed; but, in the case of collops treated à l’anglaise, the garnish or sauce which accompanies them should be served separately, lest its moisture soften the crisp coating of the collops.

1216—GRENADINS

Grenadins are veal collops larded with rows of very thin bacon strips, and cut somewhat thicker than ordinary collops. They are really small fricandeaux, the braising of which is a comparatively lengthy operation; for their cooking must be the same as that of the fricandeaux, and needs quite as much attention. In order that the grenadins be not too dry, they should be frequently basted with their braising-liquor.

When they are cooked, glaze them rapidly, and dish them with one of the garnishes given for the cushion of veal.

1217—GRENADINS FROIDS EN BELLEVUE

This dish may be prepared in several more or less complicated ways; here is a simple way:—

Take as many shell-shaped hors-d’œuvre dishes as there are grenadins. Let a thin coat of jelly set on the bottom of each, and set thereon a slight decoration composed of bits of carrot, turnip, peas, French beans in lozenge-form, &c. Put a grenadin, larded side undermost (i.e.

When this jelly has set, lay on it, all round the grenadin, a border consisting of carrots, turnips, French beans and peas. Sprinkle these vegetables with a few drops of jelly, so as to fix them, and keep them from floating, and then fill up the hors-d’œuvre dishes with jelly.

When about to serve, dip the hors-d’œuvre dishes into hot water; turn out the grenadins on a very cold dish, and arrange them on it to form a crown.

Surround with a border of very clear, chopped aspic jelly.

1218—RIS DE VEAU (Sweetbreads)

Veal sweetbreads may be looked upon as one of the greatest delicacies in butchers’ meats, and may be served at any dinner, however sumptuous. Select them very white, entirely free of blood stains, and leave them to soak in fresh water, which should be frequently changed, for as long as possible; or, better still, place them under a running tap.

To blanch them (an operation the purpose of which is to harden the surface) put them in a saucepan with enough cold water to cover them completely, and bring to the boil gently. Let them boil for ten minutes; withdraw them and plunge them into a basin of fresh water.

When the sweetbreads are cold, trim them; that is to say, cut away all cartilaginous and connective tissue; lay them between two pieces of linen, and put them under a light weight for two hours.

Now lard them with fine bacon, tongue or truffle, subject to the way in which they are to be served. They may also be studded with either tongue or truffles, or they may be left unlarded and unstudded, and plainly braised, just as they are.

Certain it is, that neither studding nor larding enhances in any way whatsoever their quality or sightliness.

Veal sweetbread consists of two parts, as unequal in quality as in shape. They are: the “kernel” or heart sweetbread, which is the round and most delicate part, and the “throat,” or throat sweetbread, which is the elongated part, and not of such fine quality as the former.

In a well-ordered dinner, heart sweetbreads only should be used, as far as possible.

There are three ways of cooking sweetbreads, viz.:—Braising (No. 248), poaching (No. 249), and grilling (No. 259). In the following recipes, therefore, the reader will kindly refer to the directions given under one of the numbers just mentioned, according as to whether the dish is to be a braising, a poaching, or a grill.

1219—ATTEREAUX DE RIS DE VEAU A LA VILLEROY

Cut some veal sweetbreads (preferably the throat kind) into roundels one and one-third in. in diameter and one-third in. thick. Prepare an equal number of mushrooms and truffle roundels, somewhat thinner than those of sweetbread.

Impale these roundels on little wooden skewers, the size of matches, and about four in. long; alternating the different products in so doing. Dip these skewers into a Villeroy sauce, and set them on a dish. When the sauce is quite cold, remove the attereaux; clear them of any superfluous sauce that may have fallen on to the dish; dip them in an anglaise (No. 174); roll them in very fine and fresh bread-crumbs, and turn them with the fingers, so as to shape them like small cylinders. Plunge them into plenty of hot fat eight minutes before serving; drain them on a piece of linen; carefully withdraw the wooden skewers and put little silver ones in their place. Dish the attereaux on a folded napkin, with fried parsley in the centre; or set them upright in a circle, on a rice or semolina cushion lying on a dish, and put some very green, fried parsley in the middle.

Serve a Périgueux sauce separately.

1220—CHARTREUSE DE RIS DE VEAU

Prepare (1) one and one-quarter lbs. of fine forcemeat with cream (No. 194); (2) two poached, veal throat sweetbreads, cut into slices; (3) one-half lb. of cooked mushrooms, cut into large slices, and three oz. of sliced truffles; (4) a garnish of carrots and turnips, raised by means of a tube- or spoon-cutter, or cut into grooved roundels two-thirds inch in diameter; and peas and French beans. Each of these vegetables should be cooked in a way befitting its nature, and kept somewhat firm.

Liberally butter a quart Charlotte-mould. Line its bottom and sides with the vegetables, arranged in alternate and vari-coloured rows, and spread thereon a layer of forcemeat, one-half inch thick.

This done, set upon the layer of forcemeat just spread, another of slices of sweetbread, mushrooms, and truffles; cover the whole with a coat of forcemeat; start the operation again with a litter of sweetbread, mushroom, and truffle slices, and proceed as before until the mould is filled. Finish with a layer of forcemeat. Cover with a round piece of buttered paper, and set to poach in a bain-marie and in the oven, for from forty-five to fifty minutes.

When taking the chartreuse out of the bain-marie, let it stand for seven or eight minutes, that the ingredients inside may settle a little, and then turn it out in the middle of a round dish; place a large, cooked, grooved, and very white mushroom on the top of it, and encircle its base with a crown of small braised and well-trimmed half-lettuces.

Send to the table, separately, a sauceboat of Velouté flavoured with mushroom essence.

1221—RIS DE VEAU BONNE MAMAN

Cut the vegetables intended for the braising stock into a short and coarse julienne, and add thereto an equal quantity of similarly-cut celery.

Braise the veal sweetbreads with this julienne, after the manner described under No. 248, and moisten with excellent veal stock. Take particular care of the vegetables, that they do not burn.

When the sweetbreads are ready, glaze them and dish them in a shallow, round cocotte with the julienne of vegetables and the braising-liquor all round.

Cover the cocotte, and serve it on a folded napkin.

1222—CRÉPINETTE

For this dish take either some white throat sweetbreads, or some remains of the latter, from which slices have already been cut.

Chop up the throat sweetbreads or the remains, together with their weight of raw calf’s udder.

Season with one-half oz. of salt and a pinch of pepper; add five oz. of chopped truffles and two whole eggs per lb. of the mince-meat. Mix the whole well; divide it up into portions weighing three oz., and wrap each portion in a piece of very soft pig’s caul.

Sprinkle with melted butter and bread-crumbs, and grill gently.

Dish in the form of a crown, and serve a Périgueux sauce at the same time.

1223—RIS DE VEAU A LA CÉVENOLE

Braise the veal sweetbreads and glaze them at the last moment.

Dish them with a heap of small glazed onions at either end, and serve, at the same time, a purée of chestnuts and a sauceboat of thickened gravy.

1224—RIS DE VEAU DEMIDOFF

Lard the sweetbreads with bacon and truffles; braise them brown, and only half-cook them. Then place them in a shallow cocotte, and surround them with the following garnish:—Two oz. of carrots and the same weight of turnips, both cut into grooved crescents; an equal quantity of small onions, cut into large roundels, and some celery cut paysanne-fashion. All these vegetables should be first stewed in butter.

Add the braising-liquor of the sweetbreads, and one oz. of minced truffles, and complete the cooking of the former. Clear of all grease and serve in the cocotte.

1225—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU BÉRENGÈRE

Braise the veal sweetbreads and cut each piece into four medium-sized slices. Trim each slice with an even, oval fancy-cutter; and, by means of a piping-bag fitted with an even pipe, one-sixth inch in diameter, garnish the edge of each slice with a thick border of mousseline forcemeat, combined with chopped salted tongue. Set the slices on a tray, and put them in a moderate oven to poach the forcemeat.

Now, by means of another piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe, garnish the centre of the slices with a nice rosette of fine and very white Soubise purée; and, in the middle of each rosette, place a little ball of very black truffle.

Set each slice on a thin, oval croûton of the same size as the former and fried in butter. Serve at the same time, in a sauceboat, the braising-liquor of the sweetbreads, cleared of all grease, and a timbale of fresh peas.

1226—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU A LA FAVORITE

Blanch the veal sweetbreads; cool them under pressure, and cut them into slices. Season the latter and toss them in clarified butter.

At the same time, toss an equal number of slices of foie gras of the same size as those of the sweetbread, after having seasoned and dredged them.

Dish in a circle, alternating the foie gras and the sweetbread slices; put a crown of sliced truffle on the circle already arranged; and, in the centre, pour a garnish of asparagus-heads cohered with butter.

Send, separately, a Madeira sauce flavoured with truffle essence.

1227—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU GRAND DUC

Blanch and cool the sweetbreads, and cut them into slices. Season the latter and cook them in butter without colouration. Dish them in the form of a crown, placing a large slice of truffle between each; coat with Mornay sauce, and glaze quickly.

When taking the dish out of the oven, arrange a heap of asparagus-heads cohered with butter, in the middle of the dish, and serve instantly.

1228—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU JUDIC

Blanch and cool the sweetbreads, and cut them into slices.

Prepare and poach a roll of chicken forcemeat, large enough to allow of slices being cut therefrom of the same size as those of the sweetbreads.

Season, dredge, and toss the slices of sweetbread in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown, each on a roundel of the poached chicken forcemeat.

On each slice place a very small, braised, and well-trimmed lettuce, a slice of truffle, and a cock’s kidney.

Send a sauceboat of thickened gravy separately.

1229—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU A LA MARÉCHALE

Braise the veal sweetbreads, keeping them somewhat firm, and cut them into slices.

Treat the latter à l’anglaise; brown them in clarified butter, and dish them in a circle, placing a fine slice of truffle between each.

In the middle of the dish arrange a fine heap of asparagus-heads cohered with butter.

1230—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉS

After having blanched, cooked, and trimmed the sweetbreads, set them to get quite cold under pressure. Then cut them in two, laterally, at their thickest point; dip each piece into melted butter, and grill gently, basting frequently the while with melted butter.

The sweetbreads may also be grilled whole, but the process is perforce a more lengthy one.

1231—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉS

Cook a brioche, without sugar, in a fluted mould, the aperture of which is a little larger than the veal sweetbreads. Carefully remove the top of the brioche, following the direction of the fluting, and withdraw all the crumb from the inside.

Fill this kind of croustade, two-thirds full, with a garnish consisting of peas, prepared “à la française,” and carrots “à la Vichy,” in equal quantities.

Set the grilled veal sweetbreads on this garnish, and cover it with slices of grilled bacon.

Dish on a napkin and serve at once.

1232—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉ

Prepare a shallow croustade, without colouration, in an oval flawn ring of the same length as the veal sweetbread. Grill the veal sweetbread after the manner already described.

Garnish the bottom of the croustade with equal quantities of artichoke-bottoms and mushrooms, minced raw, tossed in butter, and cohered with cream sauce.

Set the grilled sweetbread on the garnish, and place the croustade on a folded napkin.

Serve, separately, a slightly buttered meat-glaze.

1233—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉ

Cut some potatoes into roundels one and one-half inch thick and of the same size as the veal sweetbread. Stamp the roundels, close up to their edges, with a round, even cutter, and cook them in butter. Grill the sweetbread at the same time.

When the potatoes are cooked, withdraw all their inside in such wise as to give them the appearance of cases, and fill them with Soubise prepared with curry.

Dish them and set the grilled sweetbread upon them. On the sweetbread lay a small half-tomato and a green half-capsicum, both grilled.

1234—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉS

Blanch, prepare, and grill the veal sweetbreads as already explained. Set them on a long dish, and surround them with alternate heaps of small potatoes cooked in butter and of a nice golden colour, and carrots cut to the shape of elongated olives, cooked in consommé and glazed.

Serve a Béarnaise sauce and a purée of fresh peas, separately.

1235—RIS DE VEAU DES GOURMETS

Braise the veal sweetbreads, and, as soon as they are ready, set them in a round, flat cocotte, just large enough to hold them. Cover them with raw truffles, cut into thick slices; strain the braising-liquor over the whole; cover the cocotte, and seal the cover to the edges of the utensil by means of a thread of soft paste, made simply from a mixture of flour and water.

The object of this last precaution is to prevent any escape whatsoever of steam, and to hold the aroma of the truffles within.

Put the cocotte into a very hot oven for ten minutes; set it on a dish, and serve it as it stands. The cover should be removed only when the dish reaches the table.

1236—RIS DE VEAU AUX QUEUES D’ÉCREVISSES

Stud the sweetbreads with truffle and braise them without colouration. Dish them, and, on either side, set a heap of crayfishes’ tails (in the proportion of four to each person), cohered with cream.

At either end place some crayfishes’ carapaces (in the proportion of two to each sweetbread), garnished with chicken forcemeat combined with crayfish butter, and poached.

Serve, separately, an Allemande sauce prepared with crayfish butter.

1237—RIS DE VEAU A LA RÉGENCE

Stud the sweetbreads with truffles, and braise them without colouration.

Dish them; pour their reduced braising-liquor round the dish, and surround them with a Régence garnish, arranged in alternate heaps representing the constituents of the former, which are: quenelles of fine truffled chicken forcemeat; small grooved mushrooms; curled cocks’ combs, and truffles cut to the shape of olives. Serve separately an Allemande sauce, flavoured with truffle essence.

1238—RIS DE VEAU SOUS LA CENDRE

Stud the veal sweetbreads with truffles and tongue, and three-parts braise them.

Cut some slices of salted tongue of the same size as the sweetbreads, garnish them with slices of truffle, and set a sweetbread on each.

Cover each sweetbread with a layer of short paste (No. 2358); set them on a tray; gild; flute; make a small incision on the top of the paste to allow the escape of steam, and bake in a hot oven for thirty minutes.

When withdrawing them from the oven, pour in some half-glaze sauce with Madeira, and dish them on a napkin.

1239—RIS DE VEAU A LA TOULOUSAINE

Stud the sweetbreads with truffles and braise them without colouration.

Dish them with the Toulousaine garnish, arranged in heaps all round, and surround the latter with a thread of meat-glaze.

Toulousaine garnish comprises small chicken-forcemeat quenelles; cocks’ combs and kidneys; very white button-mushroom heads, and slices of truffle.

Serve, separately, an Allemande flavoured with mushroom essence.

1240—CROUSTADE DE RIS DE VEAU A LA FINANCIÈRE

Prepare (1) the required number of small, fluted croustades, baked without colouration in rather large tartlet moulds. (2) The same number of slices of braised veal sweetbread as there are croustades, and of the same size. (3) A financière garnish, consisting of very small chicken-forcemeat quenelles; grooved button-mushrooms, and sliced cocks’ combs and kidneys. The whole covered by half-glaze with Madeira, in the proportion of one tablespoonful per croustade. (5) As many fine slices of truffle as there are croustades.

Put a tablespoonful of the garnish into each croustade; set thereon a slice of sweetbread; put a slice of truffle upon that, and dish the croustades on a folded napkin.

1241—PÂTÉ

Butter an ordinary round hot raised pie, or a Charlotte-mould. Take about one and one-half lbs. of short paste and roll it into galettes, one-third inch thick; fold the paste over after having dredged it slightly; draw the two ends gently towards the centre, to form a kind of skullcap, which, when placed in the mould, immediately lines the latter. Avoid making folds in the paste while preparing the skullcap, for they would spoil the look of the patty when turned out.

Press the paste on the bottom and sides of the mould, that the latter may impart its shape to its lining, and cut the projecting paste to within half inch of the brim. Now coat the bottom and sides of the mould with a layer of chicken forcemeat, of an even thickness of two-thirds of an inch.

Pour into the centre of the mould a garnish composed of slices of poached veal sweetbread; sliced and cooked mushrooms and sliced truffles; the whole covered with reduced and somewhat stiff Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom essence.

Cover the garnish with a coating of forcemeat, and close the patty with a layer of paste, the edges of which should be moistened and sealed down all round the brim of the mould. Pinch the rim of paste inside and outside, and finish off with leaves of paste stamped out with a fancy-cutter, ribbed by means of the back of a knife, and laid upon the paste cover. Gild with beaten egg; make a central slit for the escape of steam, and set to bake in a hot oven, for from forty-five to fifty minutes.

When taking the patty out of the oven, turn it out and dish it on a napkin.

1242—TIMBALE DE RIS DE VEAU

Butter a timbale mould and decorate its sides with thin pieces of noodle paste, in the shape of lozenges, crescents, indented rings, discs and imitation-leaves. Excellent ornamental arrangements may be effected thus; but the reader should bear in mind that the simplest are the best.

Prepare a skullcap of paste as explained under No. 1241; slightly moisten the ornamental work in the mould, that it may cling to the paste of the timbale, and line the latter with paste which should be well pressed in all directions, that it may take the shape of the mould.

Then pierce the paste on the bottom, to prevent its blistering during the baking process; line the bottom and sides with buttered paper, and fill the timbale, three-quarters full, with split peas or lentils.

Cover the latter with a round piece of paper, and close the timbale by means of a round layer of paste, which should be sealed down round the edges. Make and trim the crest of the timbale; pinch it inside and out, and finish the cover, by means of applied imitation-leaves of paste, superposed to form a kind of dome.

Set in a moderate oven, and when the timbale is baked, remove its cover with the view of withdrawing the lentils or peas and the paper, the sole object of which was to provide a support for the cover. Besmear the inside of the timbale with a brush dipped in the beaten white of an egg; keep it for a minute or two in front of the oven, with the view of drying it inside; turn it out, and spread upon its bottom and sides a very thin coat of chicken or ordinary forcemeat, the purpose of which is to shield the crust from the softening effects of the juices of the garnish.

Put the timbale in the front of the oven for a moment or two, that this coating of forcemeat may poach.

Garnish.—Veal sweetbreads, braised without colouration and cut into collops; small mushrooms; cocks’ combs and kidneys; small quenelles of chicken, mousseline forcemeat, or roundels of chicken forcemeat rolls one-third inch thick, trimmed with the fancy-cutter; and slices of truffles, half of which should be kept for the purposes of decoration.

Cover this garnish with Allemande sauce, prepared with mushroom essence. Pour it into the timbale, just before serving; upon it set the reserved slices of truffle, in the form of a crown; replace the cover; dish upon a folded napkin, and serve.

N.B. (1) As already stated the garnish of the timbale may be cohered with a half-glaze sauce, flavoured with Madeira or truffle essence.

(2) In this garnish, whether it be cohered by means of a white or brown sauce, the slices of veal sweetbreads are always the principal ingredient; but, subject to the circumstances, the other details may be altered or modified.

1243—VOL AU VENT DE RIS DE VEAU

Vol au vent, which formerly held the place of honour on bourgeois menus, has now fallen somewhat into the background; nevertheless, I wished it to appear among the recipes in this work.

The preparation of the paste: Make the vol au vent crust as explained under No. 2390.

Garnish.—Prepare it exactly as explained under “Timbale de ris de Veau.” This garnish may also be cohered with a brown sauce, and its minor ingredients may be modified; but the slices of veal sweetbread must always stand as the dominating element.

Whatever be the selected kind of garnish, vol au vent should always be accompanied by medium-sized, trussed crayfish, cooked in court-bouillon.

Dishing.—Set the vol au vent crust upon a dish covered with a napkin; pour the garnish into it; decorate with slices of truffle; arrange the crayfish round the edge, and lay the cover upon the crayfish.

1244—RIS DE VEAU A LA RICHELIEU

Braise the veal sweetbreads exactly as described under “Ris de Veau Bonne Maman,” taking care to keep the braising-liquor sufficiently plentiful to well cover the sweetbreads in the cocotte.

When the sweetbreads are in the cocotte, together with the julienne of vegetables and a julienne of truffles, strain the braising-liquor over the whole; leave to cool well, and, when the liquid has turned to a jelly, remove the grease that has risen to the surface.

Dish the cocotte on a napkin.

1245—RIS DE VEAU A LA SUÉDOISE

Poach the veal sweetbreads without colouration, and, when they are quite cold, cut them into thin and regular collops. Spread some horse-radish butter over the latter, and cover with a slice of tongue of the same size as the underlying collop.

Bake a crust without colouration in a flawn ring, of a size in proportion to the number of slices, and garnish it with a vegetable salad cohered with mayonnaise. This crust must necessarily be made in advance.

Upon the salad now set the collops, either in the form of a crown or in that of a small turban; in the middle place a fine lettuce heart, the leaves of which should be slightly opened out.

1246—PALETS DE RIS DE VEAU A L’ÉCARLATE

Poach the sweetbreads; when they are cold, cut them into collops half-an-inch thick, and trim them with a round, even cutter. Stamp out some roundels of salted tongue with the same cutter, but let them be only one-eighth inch thick, and twice as many as the collops of veal sweetbread.

Coat the latter, on either side, with butter prepared with mustard; and cover with a roundel of tongue.

Set the prepared collops on a tray; let the butter harden, coat with jelly, and deck the middle of each quoit with a fine slice of truffle.

Arrange the quoits in a circle on a round dish; put some chopped jelly in the centre, and border the dish with very regularly-cut jelly dice.

Serve a horse-radish sauce and an Italian salad separately.

Calf’s Liver.

Calf’s liver is served chiefly as a breakfast or luncheon entrée.

Nevertheless, in ordinary menus, it is sometimes served as a relevé, braised and whole.

1247—FOIE DE VEAU BRAISÉ A LA BOURGEOISE

Lard the piece with large, seasoned strips of bacon, as for “Bœuf à la Mode.” Brown it slightly in the oven, and then put it into a saucepan garnished for braising. (No. 247.)

Moisten with one pint of white wine, and reduce it completely. This done, moisten again with brown stock, adding one pint of Espagnole sauce per quart of the moistening.

It is sufficient if the moistening and the sauce reach a little above the middle of the piece of liver.

When the cooking is two-thirds completed, transfer the liver to another saucepan; surround it with carrots, shaped like elongated olives and half-cooked in consommé; and some small onions, half-cooked in butter.

The amount of this garnish of carrots and onions should naturally be in proportion to the size of the piece of liver.

Strain the sauce over the whole, and complete the cooking gently in the oven. Dish the liver with the carrots and onions all round; reduce the sauce if necessary, and pour it over the garnish.

N.B. The latter need not be arranged symmetrically.

On the contrary simplicity should be made a feature of these bourgeois dishes.

1248—FOIE DE VEAU A L’ANGLAISE

Cut the calf’s liver into fairly thin slices, from two-and-a-half oz. to three oz. in weight. Season them with salt and pepper; dredge them, and toss them in butter. Grill an equal number of rashers of bacon.

Dish the slices of liver and the rashers of bacon alternately, and sprinkle them with the butter in which the liver was cooked, or with a brown butter.

1249—BROCHETTES DE FOIE DE VEAU

Select a pale piece of calf’s liver and cut it into square pieces two-thirds of an inch thick. Season with salt and pepper, and toss the pieces in butter, just to stiffen them.

Put them into a basin with an equal quantity of blanched salted breast of pork, cut into squares, and of slices of cooked mushrooms. Add a few tablespoonfuls of stiff Duxelles sauce, and toss the whole together, that each particle of the various ingredients may become coated with Duxelles.

This done, impale the squares of liver and pork and the slices of mushrooms upon a ringed skewer, alternating them in so doing; sprinkle copiously with fine raspings and melted butter, and set to grill gently.

These brochettes are served, either on a maître-d’hôtel butter, or on a Duxelles, Fines Herbes, an Italian or other sauce.

1250—FOIE DE VEAU A L’ESPAGNOLE

Cut the calf’s liver into slices weighing three and a half oz.; season these with salt and pepper; dredge them; sprinkle them with oil, and grill them gently.

Meanwhile, prepare:—(1) As many grilled half-tomatoes as there are pieces of liver; (2) onions cut into thin roundels, seasoned, dredged, and fried in oil; (3) a proportionate quantity of fried parsley.

Arrange the grilled slices of liver along the centre of an oval dish; place a half-tomato upon each; and, on one side, set the fried onions, on the other, the fried parsley.

1251—FOIE DE VEAU SAUTÉ

Cut the calf’s liver into slices, as above; season these with salt and pepper; dredge them, and toss them in butter.

Arrange the slices in a circle on a round dish; and either pour the herb sauce over the slices, or serve it separately.

1252—PAIN DE FOIE DE VEAU

For a calf’s liver loaf made in a quart mould: Cut one lb. of calf’s liver into dice, and finely pound these together with one-third oz. of salt, a pinch of pepper, and a little nutmeg. Add, little by little, five oz. of very cold frangipan

Rub through a sieve; put the forcemeat in a bowl; work it over ice, and finish it with two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, cooked in butter, without colouration; the yolks of two eggs, and quarter pint of thick cream, added by degrees.

Pour this forcemeat into a well-buttered quart Charlotte-mould; knock the latter gently on a folded serviette, with the view of settling its contents, and put it to poach in the oven in a bain-marie, for about forty-five minutes.

When taking the loaf out of the oven, let it stand for five minutes, that the forcemeat inside may thoroughly settle; turn it out on a round dish, and cover it with a Duxelles, Italienne, Bordelaise, brown caper, or other sauce.

1253—CÔTES DE VEAU

Veal cutlets may either be grilled or sautéd, but the second method of cooking them is, in most cases, preferable.

When they are sautéd, the cutlets should be cooked in clarified butter, over a somewhat fierce fire and in a utensil large enough to hold them without crowding.

This done, dish them; pour away the butter in which they have been cooked; swill the saucepan, i.e., dissolve the concentrated gravy adhering to the sides and bottom of it with a liquid in keeping with the garnish; either mushroom cooking-liquor, white or red wine, or Madeira, etc.; and add this swilling-liquor, reduced, to the accompanying sauce. The latter is generally a buttered half-glaze, but the best adjunct to veal cutlets is a pale meat glaze, moderately buttered.

All vegetable and paste garnishes, given under Cushion of Veal, suit veal cutlets. I must therefore beg the reader to refer to those recipes, as circumstances may dictate; and restrict myself to a few formulæ which, in my opinion, are suited more particularly to veal cutlets.

1254—CÔTE DE VEAU A LA BONNE FEMME

Put the veal cutlet into an earthenware saucepan, with one and one-half oz. of butter, and brown it well on both sides. Add six small onions cooked in butter, three oz. of potatoes cut into roundels; and complete the cooking gently in the oven, keeping the saucepan covered.

Serve the preparation in the saucepan as it stands.

1255—CÔTE DE VEAU EN CASSEROLE

Heat one oz. of butter in an earthenware saucepan; insert the veal cutlet, seasoned, and cook it gently, taking care to turn it over from time to time.

At the last moment, add a tablespoonful of excellent veal gravy, and serve in the saucepan.

1256—CÔTE DE VEAU EN COCOTTE A LA PAYSANNE

Toss the veal cutlet in butter, in the cocotte, with two small slices of blanched salted breast of pork. Add four small onions, and two small, long potatoes, cut paysanne-fashion; and complete the cooking of the cutlets and the garnish very gently in the oven.

Send the preparation to the table in the cocotte.

1257—CÔTE DE VEAU A LA DREUX

Stud the kernel of the veal cutlet with tongue, ham and truffle, and cook it gently in butter. This done, trim it to the quick on both sides, that the studding may be clean and neat; dish it with a frill on the bare bone, and, beside it, arrange a small garnish of quenelles, mushrooms, cocks’ combs and kidneys, and turned and blanched olives.

Pour a little half-glaze sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, over the garnish.

1258—CÔTE DE VEAU MILANAISE

With a moistened butcher’s beater, flatten the meat in suchwise as to reduce it to half its normal thickness. Dip the veal cutlet into beaten egg; roll it in bread-crumbs, mixed with half as much grated Parmesan, and cook it in clarified butter, or butter and oil in equal quantities.

Dish it with a frill on the bare bone, and the garnish beside it.

Milanaise garnish consists of cooked macaroni, seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and cohered with butter, grated Gruyère and Parmesan cheeses, and very red tomato purée; and combined with a julienne of very lean cooked ham, salted tongue, mushrooms and truffles, heated in Madeira.

1259—CÔTE DE VEAU PAPILLOTE

Toss the veal cutlet in butter, and prepare, meanwhile:—

(1) Two tablespoonfuls of Duxelles sauce, combined with a cooked and sliced mushroom.

(2) Two heart-shaped slices of ham, of about the same size as the cutlet.

(3) A doubled sheet of strong paper, cut to the shape of a heart and well-oiled.

Spread out the sheet of paper, and, in the middle thereof, lay a slice of ham; spread a tablespoonful of Duxelles on the latter; put the cutlet on the sauce; cover it with the remainder of the Duxelles, and finish with the other slice of ham.

Fold the sheet of paper so as to enclose the whole; pleat the edges nicely; put the cutlet on a tray, and blow out the papillote in a fairly hot oven. When taking it out of the oven, transfer it to a dish, and serve instantly.

1260—CÔTE DE VEAU POJARSKI

Completely separate the meat of the veal cutlet from the bone; clear it of all skin and gristle, and chop it up with half its weight of butter, salt and pepper. Mass this mince-meat close up to the bone, shaping it like a cutlet, and cook the whole in clarified butter, turning it over very carefully in the process.

Dish with a suitable garnish.

1261—CÔTE DE VEAU ZINGARA

Cook the veal cutlet in butter; at the same time prepare a slice of raw ham, cut to the shape of the cutlet, and likewise tossed in butter.

Dish the cutlet; set the slice of ham upon it, and surround with a few tablespoonfuls of Zingara sauce.

Zingara sauce is prepared thus: Reduce a few tablespoonfuls of white wine and mushroom cooking-liquor to half. Add one-fifth pint of half-glaze, two tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, one tablespoonful of veal stock, one oz. of a julienne of tongue, mushrooms and truffles; and set to boil for a few seconds.

1262—CÔTE DE VEAU FROIDE EN BELLE VUE

Let a little jelly set in a utensil somewhat resembling a cutlet in shape. Trim the veal cutlet; decorate it with various little vegetables, and sprinkle the latter with half-melted jelly, so as to fix them.

Put the cutlet on the layer of set jelly, inside the utensil, and let it lie with its decorated side undermost.

Add enough jelly to cover the cutlet, and let the former set.

This done, pass the blade of a small knife (dipped in hot water) round the cutlet; set the utensil for a moment upon a napkin dipped in hot water, turn out the cutlet with care, and set it on a cold dish, with a border of chopped aspic, and a frill on the bone.

1263—CÔTE DE VEAU FROIDE RUBENS

Trim the veal cutlet; coat it with half-melted aspic, and cover it with young hop shoots, cohered with tomato sauce cleared by means of aspic.

Let the sauce thoroughly set, and then put the cutlet between two layers of aspic as explained above.

N.B. Cold veal cutlets may also be served Belle-vue fashion, after the very simple manner described under “Grenadins en Belle-vue” (No. 1217).

1264—ROGNON DE VEAU

When sautéd after the usual manner, veal kidney admits of all the preparations given for sheep’s kidney. (See the chapter on Mutton.)

I shall now, therefore, only give those recipes which are proper to veal kidney.

1265—ROGNON DE VEAU EN CASSEROLE

Trim the veal kidney and only leave a very slight layer of fat all round it.

Heat one oz. of butter in a small, earthenware saucepan, also called “cocotte”; put the seasoned kidney into the latter, and cook it gently for about thirty minutes, taking care to turn it often the while.

At the last minute sprinkle it with a tablespoonful of good veal gravy. Serve it in the cocotte as it stands.

1266—ROGNON DE VEAU EN COCOTTE

Prepare the veal kidney and fry it in butter, as in the case of the “en casserole” dish. Surround it with one and one-half oz. of small pieces of blanched bacon, tossed in butter; one and one-half oz. of raw, quartered mushrooms, also tossed, and one and one-half oz. of small blanched potatoes, of the size and shape of garlic cloves, and the same quantity of small, glazed onions. Complete the cooking of the whole gently.

At the last minute, add a tablespoonful of good, veal gravy, and serve the cocotte as it stands.

1267—ROGNON DE VEAU GRILLÉ

Trim the veal kidney, and leave a slight layer of fat all round it. Cut it in half lengthwise, without completely separating the two halves, and impale it on a small skewer, with the view of keeping it in shape.

Season with salt and pepper, and grill it gently; basting it often the while with melted butter.

Send separately, either a Maître-d’hôtel, a Bercy, or other butter suited to grills.

1268—ROGNON DE VEAU A LA LIÉGEOISE

Prepare the veal kidney as for “en casserole.” One minute before serving, add one small wineglassful of burned gin, two crushed juniper berries, and one tablespoonful of good veal gravy. Serve in the cooking-utensil.

1269—ROGNON DE VEAU A LA MONTPENSIER

Trim the veal kidney, leaving a slight coating of fat all round it, and cut into five or six slices. Season the latter, toss them in butter over a brisk fire, and transfer them to a plate.

Swill the saucepan with one tablespoonful of Madeira, and add thereto three tablespoonfuls of melted meat glaze, a few drops of lemon juice, one and one-half oz. of butter, and a pinch of chopped parsley.

Dish the pieces of kidney, or set them in a timbale; sprinkle them with the sauce, and in their midst set a heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, and one and one-half oz. of truffle slices.

1270—ROGNON DE VEAU PORTUGAISE

Cut up the veal kidney, and toss it in butter, after the manner described under No. 1269.

Dish the pieces in a circle on a dish; set a very small, stuffed half-tomato upon each, and garnish the centre of the dish with a very reduced tomato fondue. Surround the kidney with a sauce prepared as directed above.

1271—ROGNON DE VEAU A LA ROBERT

Heat one oz. of butter in a small cocotte; put the seasoned veal kidney therein; fry it over a brisk fire, and set it to cook in the oven for about fifteen minutes. Serve the kidney as it leaves the oven, and complete the procedure, at the table, in the following manner:—

Transfer the kidney to a hot plate. Place the cocotte on a spirit lamp; pour into the former one glassful of excellent liqueur brandy, and reduce to half. Meanwhile, quickly cut the kidney into extremely thin slices, and cover these with an overturned plate.

Add to the reduced liqueur brandy one coffeespoonful of mustard, one oz. of butter cut into small pieces, the juice of a quarter of a lemon, and a pinch of chopped parsley; and work the whole well with a fork, with the view of effecting the leason.

Put the sliced kidney into this sauce, together with the gravy that has drained from it; heat the whole well, without boiling, and serve on very hot plates.

1272—TENDRONS DE VEAU

The tendrons are cut from breast of veal. They are, in fact, the extreme ends of the ribs, including the cartilage of the sternum.

If the tendrons are braised, treat them after the manner described under “The Braising of White Meats” (No. 248); or, simply stew them in butter; moisten them with excellent veal stock, and baste them frequently while cooking them. They may also be treated like an ordinary veal sauté, from which they only differ in shape, and the various preparations of which may be adapted to them.

The garnishes best suited to them are those of early-season vegetables, and, as a matter of fact, the latter, together with such pastes as noodles, macaroni, spaghetti, etc., are the garnishes most often served with them.

1273—BLANQUETTE DE VEAU A L’ANCIENNE

Cut the veal tendrons into pieces weighing about three oz. Then, slightly blanch them; cool them, and put them into a saucepan with enough white stock to cover; add a very little salt; set to boil, and skim.

For two lbs. of tendrons, add one small carrot; one fair-sized onion, stuck with a clove; a faggot, consisting of one leek, parsley stalks, and a fragment of thyme and bay; and set to cook gently for one and one-half hours.

Prepare a white roux from one and one-half oz. of butter and one and one-half oz. of flour; moisten with one pint of veal cooking-liquor; add one oz. of mushroom parings, and cook for a quarter of an hour, despumating the sauce the while.

Transfer the pieces of tendron, one by one, to a sautépan with twelve small onions cooked in consommé, and fifteen small, cooked and very white mushrooms. Finish the sauce with a leason of two egg-yolks, mixed with three tablespoonfuls of cream and a few drops of lemon juice; strain it over the veal and its garnish; heat without boiling; dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with a pinch of chopped parsley.

N.B. This blanquette may also be prepared with noodles or cèpes, instead of with ordinary mushrooms.

1274—BLANQUETTE DE VEAU AUX CÉLERIS, CARDONS, ETC.

Prepare the blanquette exactly as explained above, and set it to cook with the veal and the vegetable selected for the garnish, i.e., either small heads of celery cut into two or four, or cardoons, cut into pieces and well blanched. The endives are not blanched; they need only be well washed and put with the veal.

When cooked, drain the vegetables, trim them, and dish them in a timbale with the veal and the sauce; the latter prepared as directed and strained over the meat.

1275—BLANQUETTE DE VEAU AUX NOUILLES

Proceed as for “Blanquette à l’ancienne,” but suppress the garnish of onions and mushrooms.

When the blanquette is dished, set thereon heaps of noodles, parboiled and cohered with butter, and cover these with raw noodles tossed quickly in butter; allow three oz. of tossed noodles per lb. of those cohered.

1276—FRICASSÉE DE VEAU

Fricassée differs from blanquette in this, namely, that the pieces of veal in the former are stiffened in butter without colouration.

When the meat has been well stiffened, besprinkle it with about one oz. of flour per lb.; cook this flour with the meat for a few minutes; then moisten the fricassée with white stock; season, and set to boil, stirring the while. All the garnishes of mushrooms and vegetables given for blanquette may be served with fricassée; but in the case of the latter, both the meat and the garnish are cooked in the sauce, the leason of which is effected by means of egg-yolks and cream, as for blanquette.

1277—FRICADELLES

Fricadelles are a kind of meat balls, somewhat like those commonly prepared in private households. They are made from raw or cooked meat, in the following manner:—

Fricadelles with Raw Meat.—For ten fricadelles, each weighing three and one-half oz., chop up one lb. of very lean veal, cleared of all fat and gristle, together with two-thirds of a lb. of butter. Put the whole into a bowl, and add thereto five oz. of soaked and well-pressed crumb of bread, two eggs, half an oz. of salt, a pinch of pepper and a little nutmeg, and two oz. of chopped onion cooked in butter without colouration.

Mix the whole well, and divide it up into portions weighing three and one-half oz.

Fashion these portions to the shape of quoits, by first rolling them into balls on a flour-dusted board, and afterwards flattening them out with the flat of a knife.

Heat some butter or very pure fat in a sautépan; put the fricadelles therein; brown them on both sides, and then complete their cooking in the oven.

This done, set them on a round dish, and serve them, either with a vegetable purée, a Piquante or a Robert sauce.

Fricadelles with Cooked Meat.—For ten fricadelles, each weighing two and one-half oz., chop one lb. of cooked veal, fat and lean, somewhat finely.

Put it into a bowl with a large pinch of salt, another of pepper, and a little nutmeg. Add the pulp of three fair-sized potatoes, baked in the oven; three oz. of chopped onions, cooked in butter without colouration; one large egg, and one tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Mix well; divide up into portions of the weight already given, and shape and cook them as in the previous case.

These fricadelles are served with vegetable purées and the sauces suited to those prepared from raw meat.

1278—PAUPIETTES DE VEAU

Paupiettes or scrolls are made from extremely thin slices of veal, four in. long by two in. wide. After having seasoned them, cover them with forcemeat or very fine mincemeat; roll them, with their forcemeat-coat inside, into scrolls, and tie them round, once or twice, with string, that they may keep their shape while cooking. They are sometimes covered with thin rashers of bacon. Paupiettes are always braised, gently and protractedly.

They are generally garnished with vegetable purées; but they may be served just as well with all vegetable garnishes.

By making them half the usual size, they may, after having been braised, serve as the garnish for a timbale, together with noodles, gniokis, spaghetti, or with Financière, Milanaise or Napolitaine garnish, etc.

1279—SAUTÉS DE VEAU

The pieces best suited to veal sautés are: the breast and the shoulder, as also those parts of the haunch other than the cushion and undercushion.

1280—SAUTÉ DE VEAU A LA MARENGO

Heat one pint of oil in a sautépan, until it smokes. Put therein two lbs. of veal, cut into pieces, each weighing two oz., and fry until the latter are well set. Add a chopped half onion and a crushed half-clove of garlic, and fry again for a few moments.

Drain away the oil, tilting the sautépan with its lid on, for the purpose; moisten with a quarter of a pint of white wine; reduce, and add two-thirds of a quart of thin Espagnole sauce, one and one-half lbs. of tomatoes, pressed and cut into pieces (or one pint of tomato sauce), and a faggot.

Set to boil, and cook in the oven gently for one and one-half hours.

At the end of that time, transfer the pieces of veal, one by one, to another saucepan with fifteen small glazed onions, and five oz. of mushrooms. Reduce the sauce; strain it over the veal and its garnish, add two large pinches of concassed parsley, and cook for a further quarter of an hour.

When about to serve, clear of all grease, dish in a timbale, and surround with small heart-shaped croûtons of bread-crumb, fried in oil.

1281—SAUTÉ DE VEAU CHASSEUR

Cut the veal into pieces as above, and fry these well in butter or oil.

Drain away the grease; moisten with one quart of brown stock, add two tablespoonfuls of tomato purée, and a faggot; set to boil, and cook in the oven gently for one and one-half hours.

Transfer the pieces to another saucepan; strain; reduce their cooking-liquor by a quarter, and add it to one-quarter of a pint of Chasseur sauce (No. 33).

Pour this sauce over the pieces of veal, and cook again for a quarter of an hour. Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with chopped parsley.

1282—SAUTÉ DE VEAU PRINTANIER

Fry the pieces of veal in butter. Moisten with two-thirds of a quart of brown stock and one-fifth of a pint of half-glaze; add a faggot; boil, and cook in the oven gently for one hour.

This done, transfer the pieces to another saucepan; add thereto a garnish of carrots, new turnips, and small, new potatoes; strain the sauce over the veal and the garnish, and cook for a further three-quarters of an hour.

Dish in a timbale and distribute over the sauté a few tablespoonfuls of peas and French beans in lozenge-form, both cooked à l’anglaise.

1283—SAUTÉ DE VEAU A LA CATALANE

Cut up, sauté, and cook the veal gently for one and one-half hours, as for No. 1280.

Transfer the pieces of veal to another saucepan, and add to them three small peeled and pressed tomatoes, quartered and tossed in butter; ten small onions cooked in butter; six oz. of raw, quartered mushrooms; ten chestnuts, three-parts cooked in consommé, and eight Chipolata sausages.

Reduce the sauce to one-third of a pint; strain it over the veal and its garnish; cook for a further quarter of an hour, and dish in a timbale.

1284—SAUTÉS

Veal sauté may also be prepared with mushrooms, fines herbes, egg-plant, tomatoes, or “Currie à l’Indienne,” etc.

1285—PAIN DE VEAU

Prepare “Pain de Veau” exactly as directed under No. 1252; but substitute for the liver some very white veal.

Pain de veau is generally accompanied by a white sauce, such as velouté prepared with mushroom essence, Allemande sauce prepared with mushrooms, Suprême sauce, etc.

1286—CALF’S FEET

Calf’s feet serve chiefly in supplying the gelatinous element of aspics, and the body of braising stock. They are rarely used in the preparation of a special dish; but, should they be so used, they may be cooked and served after the manner directed in the recipes treating of calf’s head.

1287—CALVES’ TONGUES

Provided the difference of size be allowed for, calf’s tongue may be prepared like ox tongue, and served with the same garnishes. (See Ox Tongue, Nos. 1153 to 1158 inclusive.)

1288—CALF’S BRAINS AND AMOURETTES

Calf’s brains form the most wholesome and reparative diet for all those who are debilitated by excessive head-work; and the same remark applies to the brains of the ox and the sheep.

The amourettes mentioned here, which almost always accompany ox brains, are only the spinal marrow of the ox or the calf. This may be used in the preparation of a few special dishes; but all the recipes dealing with brains may be applied to it.

1289—THE COOKING OF BRAINS

Carefully remove the membrane enveloping the brains or the amourettes, and put them to soak in fresh water, until they are quite white. Put the brains in a saucepan with enough boiling court-bouillon (No. 163) to cover them well; skim and then set to cook gently.

Brains have this peculiarity, namely, that prolonged cooking only stiffens them; thus, calf’s brains only take half an hour to cook; but they may cook for two hours more without harm, seeing that the process only tends to make them firmer.

1290—CERVELLE A LA BEAUMONT

Cut the brains into slices; on each slice put a layer of gratin force-meat (No. 202) prepared from foie gras and softened by means of a little cold, brown sauce, and a slice of truffle. Reconstruct the brains by putting the coated slices together again.

Roll some puff-paste remains into a galette one-fifth of an inch thick, the diameter of which should be in proportion to the size of the brains under treatment. Put the brains in the middle of the galette, and cover them with the same forcemeat as that laid on the slices; sprinkle with chopped truffles; moisten the edges of the paste, and draw these over the brains so as to enclose the latter completely.

Gild; make a slit in the top for the escape of steam, and bake in a hot oven for fifteen minutes. After taking the pie out of the oven, pour a few tablespoonfuls of Périgueux sauce into the former, and dish on a napkin.

1291—CERVELLE AU BEURRE NOIR

Slice the brains; set the slices on a dish, and season them with salt and pepper.

Cook two oz. of butter in the frying-pan until it is slightly blackened; throw therein a pinch of parsley pluches, and sprinkle the brains with this butter. Pour a few drops of vinegar into the burning frying-pan, and add it to the brains.

1292—CERVELLE AU BEURRE NOISETTE

Slice and season the brains as above. Cook the butter until it has acquired a golden colour and exhales a nutty smell; pour it over the brains, and finish with a few drops of lemon juice and a pinch of chopped parsley.

1293—CERVELLE A LA MARÉCHALE

Cut the brains into regular slices, one-third of an inch thick; treat them à l’anglaise with very fine bread-crumbs, and brown them in clarified butter.

Dish them in the form of a circle, with a slice of truffle on each, and garnish the centre of the dish with a fine heap of asparagus-heads cohered with butter.

1294—CERVELLE A LA POULETTE

Prepare half a pint of poulette sauce (No. 101), combined with three oz. of small, cooked, and very white mushrooms.

Add the brains, cut into slices; toss them gently in the sauce, taking care lest they break; dish them in a timbale, and sprinkle with a pinch of chopped parsley.

1295—CERVELLE A LA VILLEROY

Cut the raw brains into slices; season them, and poach them in butter.

Dip the slices into an almost cold Villeroy sauce, in suchwise as to cover them with a thick coating of it. Leave to cool, and treat them à l’anglaise. Set to cook for a few minutes before serving, and dish on a napkin with fried parsley.

Serve a light Périgueux sauce separately.

1296—VOL AU VENT DE CERVELLE

Prepare a vol-au-vent crust, as explained under No. 2390. Slice the brains, and put the slices into half-a-pint of Allemande sauce, with twelve quenelles of ordinary forcemeat, poached just before dishing up; four oz. of small, cooked mushrooms, and one oz. of truffle slices, five or six of which should be reserved.

Pour the garnish into the vol au vent; set upon the latter the reserved slices of truffle, and dish on a folded napkin.

1297—AMOURETTES A LA TOSCA

Poach one lb. of amourettes, as explained above, and cut them into lengths of one in.

Prepare a garnish of macaroni cohered with butter and grated Parmesan, and add thereto four tablespoonfuls of a crayfish cullis per four oz. of macaroni; three crayfishes’ tails for each person, and two-thirds of the pieces of amourettes. Toss well, in order to thoroughly mix the whole; dish in a timbale; cover the macaroni with what remains of the pieces of amourettes, and cover them slightly with crayfish cullis.

MUTTON, GRASS LAMB AND HOUSE LAMB

Relevés and Entrées.

From the culinary standpoint, the ovine species supplies three kinds of meat, viz:—

Mutton—properly so-called when the meat is derived from the adult animal.

Lamb—the young, weaned sheep, not yet fully grown, the meat of which is the more highly esteemed the younger the animal is.

House Lamb—the sheep’s unweaned young that has not yet grazed.

The “Pauillac” lamb, which is imported from France, is the most excellent example of the last kind. Good house lambs are also killed in England; they are quite equal to Pauillac lamb, but their season is short. As regards ordinary English mutton and lamb, however, the delicacy and quality of these meats are unrivalled.

But for its greater delicacy and tenderness, grass lamb, which corresponds with what the French call “agneau de pré-salé” is scarcely distinguishable from mutton. The recipes suited to it are the same as those given for mutton; and all that is necessary is to allow for differences of quality in calculating the time of cooking.

House lamb, the white flesh of which is quite different, admits of some of the mutton recipes; but it is generally prepared after special formulæ, the details of which I shall give hereafter.

When served roasted, hot or cold, mutton and grass and house lamb are always accompanied by mint sauce, the recipe for which I gave under No. 136.

In view of the similarity of their preparations, and in order to avoid finicking repetitions, I have refrained from giving separate recipes for lamb and mutton respectively. The reader will therefore bear in mind that the formulæ relating to mutton also apply to grass lamb.

1298—SADDLE OF MUTTON

1299—BARON OR PAIR OF HIND-QUARTERS OF MUTTON

1300—DOUBLE OR PAIR OF LEGS OF MUTTON

1301—FILLETS OF MUTTON

1302—NECK OF MUTTON (Relevés)

Saddle of mutton is that part of the sheep which reaches from the bone of the haunch to the floating ribs.

Baron of mutton comprises the saddle and the two legs, i.e., a pair of hind-quarters.

Double consists of the two unseparated legs, minus the saddle.

The Baron and the Double are almost always cuts of lamb.

The fillet is one half of the saddle, when the latter is cut into two, lengthwise; that is to say, divided down the middle in suchwise as to bisect the spinal column. These fillets are sometimes boned, rolled over with the kernel of meat in the centre, and strung, in which case the skin should be removed before rolling. Saddle of mutton, before being roasted, should be cleared of all its superfluous underlying fat; and the flanks should be so shortened as to just meet when drawn over the fillets. The overlying skin should be removed, and the saddle should be strung in five or six places to keep it in shape.

In the case of a saddle of lamb, the skin need not be completely removed, but slit in various places. As to neck of mutton, this should be shortened as for the cutting of ordinary cutlets; the skin and the bones of the chine should be removed, as also the meat at the end of the rib-bones, down to two-thirds in. from the extremity of each. The cushion is then covered with slices of bacon, tied on with string.

When the piece is roasted and dished, a frill should be placed on the end of each bared bone. Neck of mutton ought never to comprise more than nine to ten ribs, counting from the floating ones; it should consist of rather less if anything.

Mutton Relevés allow more particularly of vegetable and rice garnishes.

Garnishes with sauces do not suit them so well, even when the pieces are braised. As for paste garnishes, such as macaroni, noodles, gniokis; they are seldom used.

Garnishes for mutton relevés should therefore be chosen, in preference, from among the following, the details of which I gave under “Filet de Bœuf” (Nos. 1044 to 1074) and which I recall hereafter:—

Andalouse, Bouquetière, Châtelaine, Clamart, Dauphine, Dubarry, Duchesse, Japonaise, Jardinière, Lorette, Macédoine, Montmorency, Moderne, Nivernaise, Orientale, Petit-Duc, Provençale, Renaissance, Richelieu, St. Germain.

Apart from these compound garnishes, the following simple garnishes also suit admirably, either alone, or separated by some kind of potato preparation:—

Braised Lettuce, stuffed with ordinary forcemeat or rice.

Cabbages, moulded to the shape of small balls, braised and stuffed with fine mince-meat or rice.

Haricot-beans, Peas and Broad-beans, cohered with butter.

Asparagus-heads, white or green, cooked and cohered with butter.

Celery, Endives, and Chicory, all braised. Brussels Sprouts, Cauliflowers, Broccoli, etc.

Finally, the garnishes and modes of preparation termed: à l’Anglaise, à la Boulangère, Braisés, Mariné en Chevreuil, which I give below for the leg and the shoulder, may be applied perfectly well to other large pieces of mutton.

1303—LARGE COLD JOINTS OF MUTTON

Refer to Cold Beef; in all cases keep the dishing simple.

The garnishing is optional.

1304—LEG AND SHOULDER OF MUTTON

Legs of mutton or lamb ought never to appear on any but an ordinary luncheon menu. Although, strictly speaking, they should always be served after one of the ways described hereafter, all the garnishes given above may be applied to them.

Shoulders may be roasted whole; but they may also be boned, seasoned inside, rolled up, and firmly strung. They may be treated like the legs, and the same garnishes are suited to them.

1305—GIGOT BOUILLI A L’ANGLAISE

Trim the leg, shorten it in the region of the tibia bone, and plunge it into a stewpan of boiling water, salted in the proportion of one-third oz. of salt per quart of water.

For an ordinary leg, add: three medium-sized carrots, two onions, each stuck with a clove, a faggot, and two cloves of garlic.

Let the leg cook for a quarter of an hour for each two lbs. of its weight.

Dish with vegetables all round, and serve at the same time a butter sauce with capers.

N.B.—Leg of mutton à l’anglaise may be accompanied by purées of turnips, celery, etc., and these vegetables should cook with the meat. A purée of potatoes or of haricot beans may be sent to the table with the meat; but, in this case, of course, the vegetables would be served separately.

1306—BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON

Suppress the pelvic bone, shorten the end bone and brown the leg in the oven.

Now, put it in an oval utensil, garnished for braising; add just enough white stock to barely cover the joint, and cook gently, allowing forty minutes per lb. of meat.

Transfer the leg to a tray; strain the braising-liquor; clear it of all grease, and reduce it to half. Sprinkle the meat with a few tablespoonfuls of this reduced gravy, and set it to glaze in the oven.

Serve at the same time:—

(1) Either a purée of potatoes, of turnips, of haricot-beans, of cauliflower, etc., or

(2) The reduced braising-liquor.

1307—GIGOT A LA BOULANGÈRE

The leg may either be boned, seasoned inside and strung; or the end-bone may simply be shortened and that of the pelvis removed.

In either case, put it in an earthenware dish, and brown it well in the oven, on both sides; then complete its cooking, all but a third.

This done, set round the joint four large, sliced onions, just tossed in butter, that they may acquire some colour, and eight large, peeled potatoes cut into roundels one half in. thick. Sprinkle this garnish with the grease of the joint, and then complete the cooking of the leg and its garnish.

Serve in the dish in which the joint has cooked.

1308—GIGOT MARINE EN CHEVREUIL

Shorten the end-bone; remove the bone of the pelvis, and skin the top of the leg, leaving the meat in that region quite bare. Lard with very small strips of bacon, and put the meat into a marinade prepared after the manner described under No. 170. The length of its stay in the marinade should be based upon the tenderness of the meat and atmospheric conditions. In winter the time averages about three or four days, and in summer two days.

To Roast the Joint.—Withdraw it from the marinade and dry it thoroughly; set it on a stand in the baking-tray; and put it into a very fierce oven, that the meat may set immediately. The object of the very fierce oven is to prevent the juices absorbed from the marinade escaping in steam and thereby hardening the meat.

Towards the close of the operation, rissole the larding bacon well.

Set on a long dish; fix a frill to the bone, and serve a Chevreuil sauce separately.

Chevreuil Sauce à la Française.—With the marinade of the joint and a Mirepoix with ham, prepare a sufficient quantity of Poivrade sauce (No. 49) to obtain two-thirds of a pint of it after it has been strained through a colander—an operation which should be effected with the application of great pressure to the aromatics.

Despumate this sauce for thirty minutes, and add, little by little, half a wine-glassful of excellent red wine. Finish the seasoning with a little cayenne and a pinch of powdered sugar, and once more rub the whole through tammy or a fine strainer.

1309—GIGOT A LA SOUBISE

Braise the leg of mutton as shown under No. 247. When it is two-thirds done, transfer it to another utensil; strain the braising-liquor over it, and add thereto three lbs. of sliced onions and two-third lb. of rice.

Gently complete the cooking of the joint, together with the onions and the rice. This done:—(1) put it on a baking-tray and glaze it in the oven; (2) quickly rub the onions and the rice through a fine sieve or tammy.

Set the leg of mutton on a long dish; put a frill on the bone, and serve, separately, the well-heated Soubise, finished with one oz. of butter.

N.B.—This Soubise may be prepared separately; but in this case it has much less flavour than when it is made from the onions and the rice which have cooked in the braising-liquor. I therefore urge the adoption of the recipe as it stands.

1310—COLD LEG OF MUTTON

Dish it very simply, like other cold large joints of mutton.

1311—CUTLETS

Mutton and lamb cutlets are sometimes sautéd; but grilling is the most suitable method of cooking them. When the nature of their preparation requires that they should be treated à l’anglaise, fry them in clarified butter. All the garnishes, given under “Tournedos,” except those served with sauces, may be applied to cutlets.

The latter also allow of a few special garnishes, and these I give in the following recipes.

1312—CÔTELETTES A LA CHAMPVALLON (10 Cutlets)

Take some cutlets from the region underlying the shoulder; that is to say, those uncovered by the removal of this joint. And do not clear the bone-ends of their meat, as when frills are to be fixed to them.

Season them with salt and pepper, and brown them in butter on both sides. This done, put them in an earthenware dish with half lb. of sliced onions, tossed in butter without colouration; moisten with enough white stock to almost cover the cutlets and the onions; add the quarter of a clove of garlic, crushed, and a faggot; boil, and set in the oven. At the end of twenty minutes, add one and one-half lbs. of potatoes, fashioned to the shape of corks, and cut into thin roundels; season, and complete the cooking, basting often the while.

When the cutlets are cooked, the moistening should be almost entirely reduced.

1313—CÔTELETTES LAURA

Grill the cutlets, and, meanwhile, prepare a garnish (the quantity of which should be such as to allow two and one-half oz. of it per cutlet) of parboiled macaroni, cut into half-inch lengths, cohered with cream, and combined, per lb., with three and one-half oz. of peeled, pressed, and concassed tomatoes, tossed in butter.

Or, when white truffles are in season, prepare some macaroni with cream, as above, combined with the peelings of raw, white truffles.

Cut some very soft pig’s caul into triangles, proportionate in size to the cutlets; spread a little macaroni on each triangle; on the latter set a cutlet; cover the cutlets with some more macaroni, and enclose the whole in the caul. Lay the cutlets on a dish.

Sprinkle with fine raspings and melted butter, and set to grill at the salamander, or in a fierce oven, for seven or eight minutes.

Dish the cutlets in the form of a crown, and surround them with a thread of clear half-glaze sauce, combined with tomatoes.

1314—CÔTELETTES A LA MAINTENON

Fry the cutlets in butter, on one side only. This done, put a heaped tablespoonful of a Maintenon preparation (No. 226) on each; shape it like a dome, by means of the blade of a small knife dipped in tepid water, and put the cutlets, one by one, on a tray. The Maintenon preparation should be laid on the cooked side of each cutlet and sprinkled with fine raspings and melted butter. Now put the cutlets in a rather hot oven for seven or eight minutes in order to:—

(1) Allow a gratin to form over the surface of the garnish.

(2) Finish the cooking of the cutlets.

Dish the latter in the form of a crown, and serve, separately, a sauceboat of meat glaze finished with butter.

1315—CÔTELETTES A LA MURILLO

Fry the cutlets in butter, on one side only; and garnish the cooked side, dome-fashion, with a fine hash of mushrooms, cohered with a little very reduced Béchamel sauce.

Set them on a tray; sprinkle with grated Parmesan and a few drops of melted butter, and glaze in a fierce oven. Dish the cutlets in the form of a crown; fix a frill to each, and surround them with mild capsicums and tomatoes, both of which should be sliced, tossed in butter, and mixed.

1316—CÔTELETTES A LA PROVENÇALE

For ten cutlets:—(1) Reduce one-half pint of Béchamel sauce to a third, and add thereto the third of a garlic clove, crushed, and the yolks of three eggs; (2) prepare at the same time as the cutlets, ten grilled mushrooms; and ten stoned, stuffed and poached olives, girded by a strip of anchovy fillet.

Fry the cutlets in butter, on one side only. Cover the cooked side of each with the preparation described above; set them on a tray; sprinkle them with a few drops of melted butter, and put them in the oven, that their garnish may be glazed and that their cooking may be completed.

Dish in the form of a circle; place a grilled mushroom (convex side uppermost) in the middle of each cutlet, and, on each mushroom, a stuffed olive.

1316a—CÔTELETTES DE MOUTON A LA REFORME

Trim six mutton cutlets; season them; dip them in melted butter, and roll them in bread-crumbs, combined with finely-chopped ham in the proportion of a third of the weight of the bread-crumbs. Now cook them gently in clarified butter.

Dish them in a circle on a hot dish, and send the following sauce to the table with them:—

Take a small saucepan, and mix therein three tablespoonfuls of half-glaze sauce, the same quantity of Poivrade sauce, and one coffeespoonful of red-currant jelly; add one coffeespoonful of each of the following short julienne garnishes to the sauce; viz.: hard-boiled white of egg; very red, salted tongue; gherkins; mushrooms, and truffles.

1317—CÔTELETTES A LA SÉVIGNÉ

Have ready a preparation of mushroom and artichoke-bottom croquettes, in the proportion of one heaped tablespoonful for each cutlet.

Fry the cutlets in butter, on one side only. Garnish the fried side of each, dome-fashion, with the above preparation; treat them à l’anglaise, and sprinkle them with melted butter.

Put them in the oven to complete their cooking, and, at the same time, to colour their coating of egg and bread-crumbs.

Dish in the form of a crown.

1318—CÔTELETTES A LA SUÉDOISE

Place the cutlets on a dish, and drop thereon some minced onions and shallots, bits of parsley stalks, thyme and bay. Sprinkle them with the juice of a lemon and a few drops of oil, and leave them to marinade for thirty minutes, turning them over the while, from time to time.

This done, dry them; dip them in melted butter, sprinkle them with bread-crumbs, and grill them.

Dish them in the form of a crown, and garnish the centre of the dish with the following, which may also be sent separately: one-half lb. of peeled and finely-sliced apples, quickly stewed to a purée with the third of a wineglassful of white wine. When about to serve, add to this purée two and one-half oz. of finely-grated horse-radish, or the latter grated and afterwards finely chopped.