Part 2 — CHAPTER XV RELEVÉS AND ENTRÉES

CHAPTER XV RELEVÉS AND ENTRÉES

The difference between Relevés and Entrées needs only to be examined very superficially in order for it to be seen how entirely the classification hangs on the question of bulk. Indeed, with very few exceptions, the same alimentary products—butcher’s meat, fish, poultry, and game—may be used with perfect propriety in the preparation of either Relevés or Entrées. And if the mode of preparation and the nature of the garnishing ingredients are sometimes dissimilar, it is owing to that difference in bulk referred to above, on account of which the Relevés, being more voluminous, are usually braised, poëled, poached, or roasted; while the Entrées, consisting of smaller pieces, are chiefly sautéd, poached, or grilled.

In the menus of old-fashioned dinners à la Française, the line of demarcation between Relevés and Entrées was far more clearly defined, the latter being generally twice, if not thrice, as numerous as the former. The first service of a dinner for twenty people, for instance, comprised eight or twelve Entrées and four soups, all of which were set on the dining-table before the admission of the diners. As soon as the soups were served, the Relevés, to the number of four, two of which consisted of fish, took the place of the soups on the table; they relieved the soups; hence their name, which now, of course, is quite meaningless.

The Russian method of serving greatly simplified the practice just described. Nowadays a dinner rarely consists of more than two soups, two Relevés (one of which is fish), and two or three Entrées for the first service. Very often the fish Relevé, instead of being a large piece of fish, only consists of fillets of sole, of chicken-turbots, &c., or timbales, which are real entrées; while the Relevés (consisting of large pieces of butcher’s meat or game), instead of being served as common sense would dictate, i.e., after the fish Relevé, when the diner’s appetite is still keen, are placed, according to English custom, after the Entrées.

Thus, as the two above examples show, the parts played by the Relevés and Entrées respectively are very far from being clearly defined; and I therefore resolved to treat of them both in the same chapter, and to append a few grills (usually accompanied by various sauces and garnishes), which are really only luncheon-roasts. The indications given concerning the class to which the recipes belong will suffice to avoid confusion.

RELEVÉS AND ENTRÉES OF BUTCHER’S MEAT

BEEF

1043—FILLET OF BEEF (Relevé)

Fillet of beef for a Relevé may consist either of the whole piece, trimmed, studded, or larded, or a more or less large piece cut from the whole, and treated after one of the methods suited to the whole fillet. The fillet may be braised, poëled, or roasted; but the last two modes of preparation suit it best, as it is generally preferred underdone and somewhat red towards the centre.

The garnishes for a Relevé of fillet of beef are as numerous as they are varied; and, as they are applicable not only to fillet of beef but to all Relevés of butcher’s meat, I give them here in preference, since fillet of beef may be considered the choicest of Relevés.

1044—FILETS DE BŒUF ANDALOUSE

Having removed all the connective tissue from the fillet, lard it with thin strips of bacon, and poële or roast it. Glaze it at the last moment; set it on a long dish, and surround it with:—(1) Some grilled half-capsicums, filled with rice à la grecque (No. 2253); (2) roundels of egg-plant, two inches in diameter and one inch thick, hollowed out to form cases, fried in oil, and garnished with concassed tomatoes tossed in oil. Arrange the half-capsicums and the egg-plant alternately round the fillet, and place a grilled chipolata sausage between each.

Sauce to be sent separately.—The gravy taken from the poëling-stock, strained, cleared of all grease, and thickened.

1045—FILET DE BŒUF BOUQUETIERE

Having larded the fillet and poëled or roasted it, set it on a long dish and surround it with:—(1) Small heaps of carrots and turnips, turned by means of a small grooved spoon, and cooked in consommé; (2) small heaps of little potatoes turned to the shape of olives and cooked in butter; (3) small heaps of peas and of French beans, cut into lozenges and cohered with butter; (4) five bunches of cauliflower.

Arrange these different products in such wise as to vary their colours and throw them into relief.

Serve the gravy of the fillet separately, after having cleared it of all grease and strained it.

1046—FILET DE BŒUF CAMARGO

Trim the fillet; suppress the long muscle lying on its thicker side (Fr. chaîne), and open the meat lengthwise from the same side. Withdraw the meat from the inside of the fillet so as to leave a wall of meat only one-half inch thick all round. Finely chop the withdrawn meat and combine with it, per lb., little by little, from four to five tablespoonfuls of cream and four oz. of fresh foie gras. Season with salt and pepper, rectify the consistence of the paste, and add thereto, per lb., two oz. of chopped truffles.

Fill the hollow fillet with this forcemeat, thereby returning it to its original shape, and stud its top surface with pointed pieces of truffle one inch long by one-quarter inch wide, stuck into the meat aslant. In order to facilitate this operation, bore the meat, before the insertion of the pieces of truffles, by means of a small knife.

Now cover the fillet with slices of bacon and string it laterally, leaving a space of one inch between each strand.

Poële the meat carefully, and take care that the forcemeat inside be well, but not over-done. This may be ascertained by thrusting a braiding needle into the thickest part of the fillet, as soon as the meat seems resisting and elastic to the touch. If the needle withdraws clean, the fillet is ready.

Now glaze it, after having cut away the string and removed the slices of bacon; dish it, and surround it with the following garnish:—Small tartlet-crusts garnished by means of noodles with cream; a slice of foie gras stamped out with a round cutter and tossed in butter, upon the noodles; and a fine slice of truffle on the foie gras.

Sauce to be sent to the table separately.—The reduced poëling-liquor of the fillet, cleared of all grease, and added to a Périgueux sauce.

1047—FILET DE BŒUF CHÂTELAINE

Lard the fillet, poële it, and glaze it just before dishing up. Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish:—(1) Medium-sized artichoke-bottoms garnished with thick Soubise; (2) fine, peeled chestnuts cooked in the poëling-liquor; (3) small heaps of lightly browned potatoes, cooked in butter at the last moment.

Sauce to be sent separately.—The reduced poëling-liquor of the fillet, cleared of all grease and added to a Madeira sauce.

1048—FILET DE BŒUF CLAMART

Lard the fillet and roast it.

Set it on a long dish and surround it with:—(1) Little tartlet-crusts garnished with peas, prepared à la Française (No. 2193), combined with the ciseled lettuce used in their cooking-process, and cohered with butter; (2) small quoits of “Pommes Macaire” (No. 2228). Arrange the tartlet-crusts and the quoits alternately.

Sauce to be sent separately.—The gravy slightly thickened.

1049—FILET DE BŒUF DAUPHINE

Lard the fillet and poële it.

Glaze it at the last moment; set it on a long dish, and surround it with a garnish of potato croquettes à la Dauphine, moulded to the shape of corks, and fried just before dishing up.

Sauce to be sent separately.—Pale half-glaze with Madeira.

1050—FILET DE BŒUF DUBARRY

Lard the fillet with bacon, and roast it.

Set it on a long dish, and surround it with small heaps of cauliflower moulded to the shape of balls, coated with Mornay sauce, besprinkled with grated cheese, and put in the oven for the gratin to form just in time for the dishing up.

Send a thickened gravy to the table separately.

1051—FILET DE BŒUF DUCHESSE

Either roast or poële the larded fillet. If it be poëled, glaze it at the last moment.

Set it on a long dish and surround it with potatoes à la Duchesse (the shape of which may be varied according to fancy), lightly browned and coloured in the oven for a few minutes before the dishing.

Sauce to be sent separately.—Half-glaze with Madeira.

1052—FILET DE BŒUF FINANCIÈRE

Poële the larded fillet.

Glaze it at the last moment and set it on a long dish.

Surround it with a garnish consisting of (1) quenelles of ordinary forcemeat; (2) grooved and cooked button-mushroom heads; (3) cocks’ combs and kidneys; (4) turned and blanched olives. Each garnish should be placed on the dish in distinct heaps.

Cover the garnish with a little financière sauce, and send the same sauce separately.

1053—FILET DE BŒUF GASTRONOME

Insert truffles, cut to the shape of ordinary larding-bacon, into the fillet, and set the latter to marinade for four or five hours in one-quarter pint of Madeira.

This done, thoroughly wipe it; cover it with slices of bacon, and braise it in Madeira. When about to serve it, remove the slices of bacon; glaze it slightly, and set it on a long dish.

Surround it with a garnish consisting of (1) large and thick slices of truffle, cooked in a fine mirepoix with champagne; (2) fine chestnuts cooked in consommé and glazed; (3) fine cocks’ kidneys, rolled in pale, thin meat-glaze; (4) noodles tossed in butter. These different garnishes should be arranged in alternate heaps, and connected by means of medium-sized truffles cooked in Madeira.

Sauce to be sent separately.—Half-glaze combined with the cooking-liquor of the truffles, strained through linen and reduced to two-thirds.

1054—FILET DE BŒUF GODARD

Lard the fillet with alternate strips of bacon and salted tongue, and poële it. Glaze it a few minutes before serving; set it on a long dish, and surround it with a garnish consisting of (1) quenelles of ordinary forcemeat with chopped mushrooms and truffles added thereto, moulded by means of a coffee-spoon, and poached just before dishing up; (2) turned and cooked button-mushroom heads; (3) glazed lamb sweet-breads; (4) cocks’ combs and kidneys; (5) truffles fashioned like olives.

Slightly coat these garnishes, which should be arranged in heaps, with sauce; finish the dish with four oval quenelles decked with tongue and truffle, and place one of these at either end and side of the dish.

Sauce to be sent separately.—A Godard sauce combined with the cooking-liquor of the fillet, cleared of all grease and reduced.

1055—FILET DE BŒUF HONGROISE

Lard the fillet and roast it.

Set it on a long dish and surround it with a garnish consisting of medium-sized onions, cooked in white consommé, and glazed in butter at the last minute.

Sauce to be sent separately.—Thin Soubise with paprika.

1056—FILET DE BŒUF JAPONAISE

Lard the fillet and poële it.

Glaze it just before dishing; set it on a long dish, and surround it with a garnish consisting of (1) small croustades cooked in grooved brioche-moulds and garnished with Japanese artichokes cohered by means of velouté; (2) potato croquettes moulded to the shape of eggs and fried just before dishing up. Arrange the croustades and the croquettes alternately.

Send the gravy of the fillet, strained and cleared of all grease, to the table separately.

1057—FILET DE BŒUF JARDINIÈRE

Lard the fillet and roast it.

Set it on a long dish and surround it with the following garnishes, which should be arranged in distinct heaps in such wise as to alternate their colours:—Carrots and turnips, raised by means of a grooved spoon-cutter and cooked separately in consommé; peas, French beans in lozenge-form and small flageolets, each of which vegetables should be cooked in a manner in keeping with its nature, and separately cohered with butter; portions of freshly-cooked cauliflower, kept very white and of tight growth.

Send some Hollandaise sauce for the cauliflower, and some clear gravy, to the table, separately.

1058—FILET DE BŒUF LORETTE

Lard the fillet and poële it.

Glaze it at the last moment; set it on a long dish, and surround it with a garnish as follows:—(1) A small pyramid of Lorette potatoes (No. 2226) at either end of the fillet; (2) fine heaps of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, on either side.

Send some tomatéd half-glaze separately.

1059—FILET DE BŒUF MACÉDOINE

Prepare the fillet as directed under “Filet de Bœuf Jardinière.” Set it on a long dish and surround it with a Macédoine garnish. The latter comprises the same ingredients as the “Jardinière”; but, instead of their being heaped separately, they are mixed together and cohered by means of butter.

1060—FILET DE BŒUF AU MADÈRE ET AUX CHAMPIGNONS

Lard and poële the fillet.

Glaze it; dish it as before, and surround it with fine mushroom-heads, turned and grooved.

Send to the table, separately, a Madeira sauce finished with the poëling-liquor, cleared of all grease and reduced.

1061—FILET DE BŒUF MODERNE

Lard the fillet alternately with bacon and tongue, and poële it.

Glaze it just before dishing; set it on a long dish, and surround it with garnish as follows:—On either side of the fillet lay a row of small “chartreuses,” made in small, hexagonal moulds.

To make these “chartreuses,” butter the moulds and deck the bottom of each with a slice of truffle, big enough to almost entirely cover it. Now line the sides of the moulds with various vegetables, such as carrots, turnips, peas, and French beans; each of which vegetables should be cooked as its nature requires.

Arrange them in such wise as to vary their colours, and spread over the whole a thin layer of rather flimsy forcemeat.

Fill up the moulds with braised cabbage, which should be well pressed with the view of ridding it of all its moisture, and put the chartreuses in a bain-marie ten minutes before dishing the fillet.

At either end of the fillet set some braised half-lettuces, arranging them so that they frame the ends of the fillet in half-circles.

Between the lettuce and the chartreuses set four round quenelles, decorated with salted tongue and poached in time to be ready for the dishing of the meat.

Send to the table, separately, the poëling-liquor of the fillet, cleared of all grease, strained, and slightly thickened with arrowroot.

1062—FILET DE BŒUF MONTMORENCY

Lard the fillet and poële it.

Glaze it just before dishing up, and set it on a long dish.

Send to the table, separately, a Madeira sauce finished with the poëling-liquor of the fillet, to which add (per pint of the sauce) three tablespoonfuls of red-currant jelly; two tablespoonfuls of finely-grated horse-radish, or the latter finely grated first, and then chopped; thirty moderately-sweetened cherries, set to soak in tepid water seven or eight minutes beforehand, and drained just before being added to the sauce.

1063—FILET DE BŒUF NIVERNAISE

Lard the fillet and poële it.

Glaze it at the last moment; set it on a long dish, and surround it with garnish as follows:—(1) Heaps of small carrots, shaped like elongated olives, cooked in white consommé and a little butter and sugar, and rolled in their cooking-liquor (reduced to the consistence of syrup), with the view of glazing them.

Send the poëling-liquor (cleared of all grease and strained) to the table separately.

1064—FILET DE BŒUF ORIENTALE

Roast the fillet “plain,” i.e., without previously larding it.

Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish, taking care to alternate the ingredients, viz., (1) timbales of rice à la grecque (No. 2253) moulded in buttered dariole-moulds, each timbale being placed on a medium-sized half-tomato, seasoned and tossed in butter; (2) croquettes of sweet potatoes, moulded to the shape of corks, and fried just before dishing up.

Send to the table, separately, a highly seasoned tomato sauce.

1065—FILET DE BŒUF PERIGOURDINE

Lard the fillet and poële it.

Glaze it just before dishing up; set it on a long dish, and surround it with medium-sized truffles, freshly cooked in Madeira and fine mirepoix, and glazed. Send a Périgueux sauce separately.

1066—FILET DE BŒUF PETIT DUC

Lard the fillet and poële it.

Glaze it in good time; set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish:—(1) crisp, small patties of puff paste garnished with asparagus-heads cohered by means of cream sauce; (2) medium-sized artichoke-bottoms, prepared in the usual way, and garnished with slices of truffle.

Send, separately, a light, meat glaze, combined with four oz. of butter per one-half pint.

1067—FILET DE BŒUF PORTUGAISE

Lard the fillet and roast it.

Set it on a long dish, and garnish it as follows:—

1. A row of medium-sized, stuffed tomatoes on either side.

2. At either end a nice heap of potatoes, shaped like long olives, and cooked in butter just before dishing up.

Send a light, Portugaise sauce separately.

1068—FILET DE BŒUF PROVENÇALE

Lard the fillet and poële it.

Glaze it at the last minute; set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following, alternated:—Tomatoes and mushrooms stuffed à la Provençale (Nos. 2266 and 2075).

Send a tomatéd half-glaze sauce, separately.

1069—FILET DE BŒUF RÉGENCE

Marinade the fillet in Rhine wine two or three hours in advance; cover it with a Matignon (No. 227); envelop the fillet and the Matignon in slices of bacon, and set the whole to braise with its marinade.

A few minutes before dishing up, remove the slices of bacon and the Matignon, and glaze the fillet.

Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish, which, except for the decorated quenelles, which are left plain, should be arranged in distinct heaps, and slightly coated with sauce:—(1) quenelles of ordinary forcemeat, combined with chopped tongue, moulded by means of a coffeespoon, and poached at the last minute; (2) collops of foie gras tossed in butter; (3) fine cocks’ combs; (4) very white, cooked mushroom-heads, and truffles shaped like large olives.

Send, separately, the braising-liquor of the fillet, cleared of all grease, strained with pressure, reduced, and added to a half-glaze sauce.

1070—FILET DE BŒUF RENAISSANCE

Lard the fillet and poële it.

Glaze it at the last minute; set it on a long dish, and surround it with a garnish of early-season vegetables, comprising carrots and turnips, raised by means of a large, round, grooved spoon-cutter, cooked in consommé and glazed; very green peas; small French beans; small faggots of asparagus-heads; portions of cauliflowers, and small potatoes cooked in butter.

Renaissance garnish is, however, subject to no fixed rules, and it may consist of all the available early-season vegetables, small artichoke-bottoms included.

Send a clear gravy separately.

1071—FILET DE BŒUF RICHELIEU

Lard the fillet, and either poële or roast it.

If it be poëled, glaze it in good time; set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish, which should be arranged in distinct heaps and in such wise as to contrast its colouring:—(1) Small tomatoes and medium-sized mushrooms, stuffed; (2) small or half-lettuces, braised and well trimmed; (3) potatoes, the size of pigeons’ eggs, cooked in butter and prepared just in time for the dishing up.

Send the cooking-liquor, cleared of all grease, and slightly thickened, separately.

1072—FILET DE BŒUF SAINT-FLORENTIN

Lard the fillet and roast it.

Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish:—(1) At either end, a heap of cèpes, prepared à la Bordelaise at the last minute; (2) croquettes of potatoes à la Saint-Florentin, on either side. These croquettes are prepared from the same potato-paste as “Pommes Duchesse,” but in this case the paste receives a copious addition of chopped tongue. Mould them to the shape of lozenges, and treat them à l’anglaise, using for the purpose very fine vermicelli instead of bread-crumbs.

Fry the croquettes just before dishing up.

Send, separately, a Bordelaise sauce with white wine, kept somewhat light.

1073—FILET DE BŒUF SAINT-GERMAIN

Lard the fillet and roast it.

Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish:—(1) At either end of the fillet a nice heap of glazed carrots, cut to the shape of olives; (2) a heap of very small potatoes, cooked in butter, on either side of the carrots; (3) a row of small timbales of very green peas purée (No. 2196) on either side of the fillet.

1074—FILET DE BŒUF TALLEYRAND

Cut up the necessary number of raw truffles for the garnishing of the fillet. The pieces of truffle should be one inch long and one-quarter inch wide, and so pointed as to enable them to be easily stuck into the meat.

To stick them in, make small incisions in the fillet, and in these set the bits of truffle. Marinade the fillet for three hours in Madeira; wrap it in slices of bacon; string it, and set it to braise with its marinade.

This done, remove the slices of bacon; glaze it, and set it on a long dish. Send the following garnish separately:—Poached macaroni, cut into pieces one and one-half inches long, and combined per lb. with three oz. of grated Gruyère and Parmesan, one and one-half oz. of butter, three oz. of a julienne of truffles, and three oz. of cooked foie gras, cut into large dice.

As an adjunct, send a Périgueux sauce with a fine julienne of truffles instead of the latter chopped.

1075—FILET DE BŒUF FROID (Relevé)

Fillet of beef, when properly dished, makes an excellent cold Relevé.

For this purpose lard it, roast it (keeping it somewhat underdone towards the centre), and, when it is quite cold, trim, and coat it with half-melted jelly.

Then set it either directly upon a dish or upon a cushion of bread or carved rice, which makes the dish more sightly when the garnish is added.

Before setting the fillet on the dish or on the cushion of rice, it is well to cut a slice one-fifth inch thick from the whole of its base; leave this slice under the fillet when dishing; by this means, when the carving is proceeded with, each slice will be found to be neatly trimmed.

Cold fillet of beef allows of every possible cold vegetable garnish.

The vegetables should be cooked with the greatest care and be left to cool naturally.

When they are quite cold, either cohere them by means of jelly, or set them round the fillet in neat heaps, taking care to alternate their shades, and coat them with almost melted aspic.

Finally, between each heap of vegetables lay a little chopped and very clear aspic, and, round the whole, arrange a border consisting of bits of aspic (round, oval, square, lozenge-shaped, &c.) very regularly cut.

I see no reason for devoting any further space to this subject. What has been said should, I think, suffice to show how varied and numerous are the possible ways of dishing cold fillet of beef, the minute details of which may, with advantage, be left to the ingenuity of the operator.

FILLET OF BEEF FOR ENTRÉES

1076—CHÂTEAUBRIAND, FILLET STEAK, TOURNEDOS

By fillet steaks are understood those pieces of meat cut laterally from the thickest part of the fillet of beef.

They ought to be about one and one-half inches thick, and weigh from six to seven oz. Tournedos are half-fillets in respect of their weight, and might well be called the “kernels” of the fillet of beef. The usual thickness of a tournedos is about one and one-quarter inches, and they should be cut to a nice, round shape. With the object of preserving their shape, they may be tied round with string.

Châteaubriand is also procured from the centre of fillet of beef, and its weight is often twice, thrice, and sometimes more than thrice as much as that of the ordinary fillet steaks.

As a rule, especially when grilled, it constitutes a special roast for luncheons; when it is cooked in the saucepan, i.e., sautéd, it is more often served as a Relevé.

The same garnishes suit fillet, Châteaubriands, and tournedos, the only necessary modifications being in respect of size and arrangement, which should be subject to the size of the piece of meat.

The garnishes detailed hereafter are for the tournedos, which supply the greatest number of the dishes prepared from the three different cuts of fillet. If a fillet steak be prepared after one of the following recipes, the garnish should be made a little stronger, and its constituents modified in the dishing, neither of which changes need in any way alter the formula.

The same holds with regard to a Châteaubriand. Thus, for example, if it be required to prepare a fillet steak or a Châteaubriand, after the recipe “Tournedos à l’Algérienne,” the number of croquettes and tomatoes should be half as much again, and they should be arranged alternately round the meat, instead of the latter being placed on the croquettes, as in the case of the tournedos.

If the fillets are to be treated “à l’Alsacienne,” after the recipe for tournedos, the sauerkraut should be dished in a timbale instead of in tartlet-crusts, &c.

All that is needed, therefore, is a change in the method of arrangement, and this can be decided upon at a glance, without necessarily interfering with the principle of the recipe.

It should be borne in mind that nearly all the garnishes given under fillet of beef, served whole, may be applied to Châteaubriands, fillet steak, and tournedos, provided they be made in proportion to the size of the different pieces. I see no need, therefore, to repeat these vegetable recipes in so far as they relate to the various cuts of fillet of beef.

It is only necessary to add that for the fillet of beef, as well as for tournedos, noisettes, &c., a large number of plain vegetable garnishes may be used, the details of which I prefer to omit for fear of unduly lengthening this work.

Whole fillets, fillet steak, and tournedos may thus be served with garnishes of braised celery, tuberous fennel, cardoons with gravy, chow-chow and endives, braised lettuce, various purées, &c., and, generally, with all the vegetable preparations given in Chapter XVII.

Important Remarks relative to the Sauces suited to Entrées of Butcher’s Meat, Garnished with Vegetables

The derivative sauces of the Espagnole are not, as a rule, suited to entrées garnished with vegetables. Thickened gravy is better.

The finest adjunct, however, is meat-glaze, which should receive an addition of four oz. of butter per pint, and should be slightly acidulated by means of a few drops of lemon juice. This glaze ought to be so light as not to impaste the vegetables.

Such vegetables as asparagus-heads, peas, French beans, macédoines, &c., have a disintegrating action upon the sauces, and this is owing either to their natural moisture or to their leason. As a result of this action the preparation has an unsightly appearance when served upon the diner’s plate.

With Châteaubriand sauce (No. 71) or buttered meat-glaze this objection does not obtain, seeing that this sauce does not decompose, but combines admirably with the garnish, and lends the latter a certain noticeable mellowness.

I therefore emphasise this point, viz., that the derivative sauces of the Espagnole and tomato sauces should be exclusively used with such preparations garnished with truffles, cock’s combs and kidneys, quenelles and mushrooms, as “la Financière,” “la Godard,” &c.

TOURNEDOS

1077—TOURNEDOS ALGÉRIENNE

Season the tournedos, and fry them in clarified butter.

Arrange them in the form of a crown on a round dish, and set a croquette of sweet potato, moulded to a round shape, upon each.

Around the whole lay some small, emptied, and seasoned half-tomatoes, stewed in oil.

1078—TOURNEDOS ALSACIENNE

Season and grill the tournedos.

There should have been prepared in advance as many small tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos.

Garnish these tartlets with well-drained, braised sauerkraut, and set on each a roundel of the lean of ham, stamped out with an even cutter. Arrange them in the form of a crown on a dish, and set a tournedos upon each tartlet.

1079—TOURNEDOS ARLÉSIENNE

Fry the tournedos in butter and oil.

When about to serve, set the tournedos on a dish, and surround them with fried roundels of egg-plant and tossed tomatoes, alternating the two garnishes, and placing roundels of fried onions on the tournedos.

1080—TOURNEDOS BALTIMORE

Season the tournedos, and fry them in clarified butter.

Set them in the form of a crown on small tartlets garnished by means of maize with cream.

Upon each tournedos set a roundel of tomato, seasoned and tossed in butter, and a smaller slice of green capsicum, also tossed in butter, on each roundel of tomato.

Accompanying sauce: a Châteaubriand (No. 71).

1081—TOURNEDOS BÉARNAISE

Season the tournedos, and grill them.

Set them on round crusts, half an inch thick, fried in clarified butter; slightly coat the surface of the tournedos with meat-glaze, and surround them with a thread of Béarnaise sauce (No. 62).

In the centre arrange a heap of small potatoes cooked in butter and kept very soft, and sprinkle thereon a pinch of chopped parsley.

N.B.—The tournedos may be simply coated with glaze and the Béarnaise sauce served separately.

1082—TOURNEDOS BELLE-HÉLÈNE

Prepare as many small croquettes of asparagus-tops, shaped like quoits, as there are tournedos, and fry them while the latter are being cooked. Season the tournedos, and fry them in clarified butter.

Arrange them, in the form of a crown, on a dish; place a croquette on each tournedos, and a large, glazed slice of truffle on each croquette.

1083—TOURNEDOS BERCY

Grill the tournedos, and coat them lightly with pale meat-glaze.

Dish them in the form of a crown, and serve a half-melted “Beurre à la Bercy” (No. 139) separately.

1084—TOURNEDOS BORDELAISE

Grill the tournedos, and dish them in the form of a crown.

Set a large slice of poached marrow on each, and serve a Bordelaise sauce (No. 32) separately.

1085—TOURNEDOS BRABANÇONNE

Prepare as many tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos.

Garnish them with very small parboiled Brussels sprouts, stewed in butter; cover these with Mornay sauce, and set to glaze a few moments before dishing.

Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter; set them on the prepared tartlets of sprouts, and surround with a border of small “pommes de terre fondantes” (No. 2214).

1086—TOURNEDOS CASTILLANE

Prepare (1) as many tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos; (2) peeled, pressed, and seasoned tomatoes, cooked in butter; these should be in the proportion of one tablespoonful per tartlet; (3) rings of onion, fried in oil as for “Tournedos à l’Arlésienne”; (4) a garnish of one tablespoonful of small French beans, cohered with butter, per tartlet.

Season the tournedos; fry them in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown on fried crusts.

Place a tartlet, garnished with a fondue of tomatoes, on each tournedos; all round arrange a border of the fried roundels of onion, and serve the French beans, either in the middle of the dish or separately in a timbale.

1087—TOURNEDOS CENDRILLON

Prepare (1) as many fine artichoke-bottoms as there are tournedos; (2) a Soubise purée, combined with chopped truffles, and well buttered.

A few moments before the tournedos are ready, garnish the artichoke-bottoms with the Soubise, and set them to glaze in a fierce oven.

Season the tournedos; fry them in clarified butter, and set them on the artichoke-bottoms, which should be arranged in a circle round the dish.

1088—TOURNEDOS AUX CHAMPIGNONS

Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.

Dish them in the form of a crown; drain the butter from the sautépan; swill the latter with some mushroom cooking-liquor, and add thereto a proportional quantity of mushroom sauce. Set to boil for a few minutes, and pour the sauce, with the mushrooms, in the midst of the circle of tournedos.

1089—TOURNEDOS CHASSEUR

Season the tournedos; fry them in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown.

Drain the butter away; swill the sautépan with white wine, and add to this a quantity of Chasseur sauce, which should be in proportion to the number of tournedos.

Set to boil for a moment or two, and pour the sauce over the tournedos.

1090—TOURNEDOS CHORON

Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.

Set them on crusts fried in butter; round the top of each lay a thread of Choron sauce (No. 64), and in the middle of each set a medium-sized artichoke-bottom garnished with peas or asparagus-heads cohered with butter.

All round, arrange a border of potatoes, lightly browned in butter, or heap them in the middle of the crown of tournedos.

N.B.—The sauce may be served separately.

1091—TOURNEDOS COLIGNY

1. With a preparation of sweet potatoes, made after the manner of “Duchesse potatoes” (No. 221), make as many small galettes as there are tournedos, and of the same size as the latter.

Place them on a tray; gild them, and set them to brown in the oven a few minutes before the tournedos are ready.

2. Cut some chow-chows in thick slicespaysanne fashion; parboil them; stew them in butter, and add thereto an equal quantity of Provençale sauce.

Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter; dish them in the form of a crown, on the galettes of potato, and cover them with the paysanne of chow-chow.

1092—TOURNEDOS A L’ESTRAGON

Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.

Dish them in the form of a crown, and on each set either a spray of parboiled tarragon leaves or a lattice composed of the latter. Send separately a thickened gravy with tarragon (No. 41).

1093—TOURNEDOS FAVORITE

Season the tournedos; fry them in clarified butter, and dish them, in the form of a crown, on crusts stamped out with an indented cutter and fried in butter.

On each tournedos place a round collop of foie gras, a little smaller than the piece of meat; the collop should be seasoned, dredged, and tossed in butter. On each collop of foie gras put a fine, glazed slice of indented truffle. Garnish the centre of the dish with a fine heap of asparagus-tops cohered with butter, or merely set these in small heaps round the tournedos.

Serve separately a timbale of potatoes (of the size of hazel-nuts) cooked in butter, rolled in pale meat-glaze, and slightly sprinkled with chopped parsley.

1094—TOURNEDOS A LA FLORENTINE

Prepare (1) as many subrics of shredded spinach as there are tournedos; make them of the same size as the latter, and cook them at the same time as the tournedos; (2) small, round croquettes of semolina the size of walnuts; these should be fried a few minutes before the tournedos are ready.

Grill the tournedos, and dish them, in the form of a crown, on the spinach subrics. The croquettes of semolina may be arranged either in the middle or all round.

1095—TOURNEDOS FORESTIÈRE

Season the tournedos, and sauté them. Set them on crusts fried in butter. Surround them with alternate heaps of noodles and potatoes cut into large dice and tossed in butter.

The potatoes may also be placed in the midst of the tournedos with the noodles all round, or vice versâ.

1096—TOURNEDOS GABRIELLE

Make a preparation from the white meat of a chicken and truffles—both cut into dice and cohered with the necessary quantity of somewhat light “Duchesse-potatoes” paste.

With this preparation make as many small quoit-shaped croquettes as there are tournedos, and fry them while the latter are being cooked.

Season the tournedos, and fry them with oil and butter in equal quantities. Dish them, in the form of a crown, on the prepared croquettes, and on each tournedos set a fine roundel of poached marrow and one slice of truffle.

Around the tournedos arrange some very small, braised, and well-trimmed lettuces.

1097—TOURNEDOS HENRI IV

Grill the tournedos, and set them on crusts fried in butter.

Round the edge of each tournedos lay a thread of Béarnaise sauce, and on top of each an artichoke-bottom garnished with very small potatoes (of the size of hazel-nuts) cooked in butter.

N.B.—Instead of putting the sauce on the edge of the tournedos, it may be served separately.

1098—TOURNEDOS JUDIC

Season the tournedos; fry them in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown on crusts fried in butter. On each tournedos set a crown of truffle slices, with a cock’s kidney in the centre, and surround with braised, trimmed, and quartered lettuces.

1099—TOURNEDOS LAKMÉ

Prepare (1) as many small tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos; (2) the same number of grilled, medium-sized mushrooms; (3) a garnish of one tablespoonful of broad beans with cream per tartlet.

Season the tournedos, and fry them in clarified butter.

Dish them in the form of a crown, each on a tartlet garnished with broad beans, and set a grilled mushroom on each tournedos.

1100—TOURNEDOS LESDIGUIÈRES

Select onions sufficiently large to admit of placing the tournedos upon them, and let their number equal that of the tournedos.

Trim their tops, and parboil them almost long enough to cook them.

Then, by means of a small knife, cut out their insides so that they may form little cases. Fill the latter, two-thirds full, with spinach prepared with cream, cover the spinach with Mornay sauce, and set them to glaze in a fierce oven a few moments before the tournedos are ready.

Grill the tournedos; dish them in the form of a crown, each on an onion.

1101—TOURNEDOS LILI

Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.

Dish them, in the form of a crown, each on a crust of “Pommes de terre Anna” (No. 2203), stamped out with a round, even cutter of the same size as the tournedos.

On each tournedos set an artichoke-bottom garnished with a roundel of foie gras tossed in butter, and on the foie gras place a slice of truffle. Send, separately, a reduced and well-buttered Périgueux sauce.

1102—TOURNEDOS LUCULLUS

Season the tournedos; fry them in clarified butter, and dish them, in the form of a crown, on fried crusts. Surround them with a garnish consisting of quenelles of chicken forcemeat, cocks’ combs, truffles, and blanched olives, and coat the whole with half-glaze sauce prepared with truffle essence.

1103—TOURNEDOS MADELEINE

For ten tournedos prepare (1) ten timbales of a purée of haricot beans. For these timbales the purée of haricot beans must be cohered per lb. with one egg and three yolks, finished with two oz. of butter, put into well-buttered dariole-moulds, and set these to poach fifteen minutes in advance.

(2) Ten small artichoke-bottoms garnished with reduced Soubise.

Season the tournedos; fry them in butter; dish them, and surround them with the timbales and the artichoke-bottoms, alternating the two garnishes.

1104

Season the tournedos; fry them in butter, and dish them upon fried crusts. On each of the tournedos set a large, glazed slice of truffle, and surround them with little heaps of asparagus-heads cohered with butter.

1105—TOURNEDOS MARIE-LOUISE

Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.

Dish them, in the form of a crown, upon crusts one-third inch thick, fried in butter. On each tournedos set a small artichoke-bottom, stewed in butter, garnished in the shape of a dome, by means of a piping-bag, with a purée of mushrooms combined with a quart of very reduced Soubise.

1106—TOURNEDOS MASCOTTE

Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.

Have a garnish ready consisting of raw, quartered artichoke-bottoms fried in butter; small, olive-shaped potatoes, also cooked in butter; and olive-shaped truffles.

When about to serve, dish the tournedos in a cocotte with the garnish above described.

Swill the sauté-pan with white wine; add thereto a little gravy; reduce the whole, strain it into the cocotte, and put the latter in the front of the oven for a minute or two.

1107—TOURNEDOS MASSÉNA

Season the tournedos and fry them in butter; dish them on fried crusts of the same size, and, in the middle of each tournedos, set a large slice of poached marrow.

Surround with a row of small artichoke-bottoms, garnished with very stiff Béarnaise sauce.

1108—TOURNEDOS A LA MÉNAGÈRE

Put into an earthenware cocotte the following vegetables, which should be in proportion to the number of tournedos:—Haricot butter or “Princesse” cut into small pieces, minced new carrots, very small new onions, and very fresh peas.

All these vegetables should be equally apportioned.

Add salt, butter, and a very little water, for the cooking of the vegetables should be effected mainly by the concentration of steam inside the cocotte, which, for the purpose, should therefore be well closed.

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them upon the vegetables in the cocotte at the last moment.

1109—TOURNEDOS A LA MEXICAINE

Prepare (1) a fondue of peeled and pressed tomatoes, cooked in butter, well reduced, and in the proportion of one tablespoonful per mushroom; (2) as many large grilled mushrooms as there are tournedos, while the latter are being fried; (3) some grilled or fried capsicums in the proportion of half a one per tournedos.

Season the tournedos, and fry them in oil and butter in equal quantities. Dish them each on a mushroom garnished with the fondue of tomatoes, and cover them with the grilled or fried capsicums.

1110—TOURNEDOS MIKADO

Select some fine, rather firm tomatoes—“Mikados,” as they are called—and cut them in two laterally. Squeeze them with the object of expressing all their juice and seeds; season them inside, and grill them so that they may be ready at the same time as the tournedos.

Season the latter and fry them in butter.

Dish them in the form of a crown, each on a grilled half-tomato, and garnish the centre of the dish with Japanese artichokes tossed in butter.

1111—TOURNEDOS MIRABEAU

Grill the tournedos.

Lay eight fine strips of anchovy fillets upon each, crossing the former after the manner of a lattice. Cover the edges with a crown of blanched tarragon leaves, and set a large stoned olive in the middle of each tournedos.

Send some half-melted anchovy butter separately, and allow two-thirds oz. of it for each tournedos.

1112—TOURNEDOS MIREILLE

For ten tournedos, prepare in advance, (1) five croustades from the preparation used for “pommes Duchesse.” To make these croustades, fill some buttered dariole-moulds with the preparation referred to, taking care to press it snugly into them. Dip the moulds into tepid water, turn out, treat the mouldings à l’anglaise, fry them, hollow out their centres, and keep them hot.

(2) A fondue of tomatoes in the proportion of one heaped tablespoonful per croustade.

(3) Five timbales of pilaff rice, made after the same manner as the croustades, and kept hot until required for dishing.

Season the tournedos, fry them in butter, and dish them as soon as they are ready.

Surround them with timbales of rice, and the croustades garnished with the fondue, the two garnishes to be alternated.

1113—TOURNEDOS MIRETTE

Prepare as many small timbales of “pommes Mirette” (No. 2234) as there are tournedos.

Turn them out on a dish, sprinkle with grated Parmesan and a few drops of melted butter, and set them to glaze a few minutes before the tournedos are ready. Grill the tournedos, dish them in the form of a crown, and set a timbale of pommes Mirette upon each.

Swill the sauté-pan with white wine; add thereto a little meat-glaze, finish with butter, and pour the resulting sauce over the tournedos.

1114—TOURNEDOS A LA MOELLE

Grill the tournedos and dish them in the form of a crown.

Lay on each of them a large slice of poached marrow, and either surround them with Bordelaise sauce or send the latter to the table separately.

1115—TOURNEDOS MONTGOMERY

Season the tournedos and fry them in butter.

Dish them upon a pancake of spinach (No. 2138), cooked in a tartlet-mould. Deck each tournedos with a rosette of reduced Soubise, made by means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe, and put a fine slice of truffle in the centre of the rosette.

1116—TOURNEDOS MONTPENSIER

Prepare (1) as many tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos; (2) a garnish of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, in the proportion of one heaped tablespoonful per tartlet.

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them upon fried crusts.

On each of them set a tartlet garnished with asparagus-heads, with a slice of truffle in the middle.

1117—TOURNEDOS AUX MORILLES

Grill the tournedos or fry them in butter.

Dish them in the form of a crown; in the centre arrange a heap of morels tossed in butter, and besprinkle them moderately with chopped parsley.

1118—TOURNEDOS A LA NIÇOISE

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown.

In the centre of each tournedos set a small heap, consisting of one half-tablespoonful of peeled, pressed, and concassed tomatoes, tossed in butter, together with a little crushed garlic and chopped tarragon.

Surround with small heaps of French beans cohered with butter, and other heaps of small potatoes, cooked in butter, alternating the two garnishes.

1119—TOURNEDOS NINON

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them upon crusts of “pommes Anna,” stamped out with a round fancy-cutter of the same size as the tournedos. On each of the latter set a small patty, garnished with asparagus-heads, cohered with butter and combined with a fine and short julienne of truffles.

1120—TOURNEDOS PARMENTIER

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown.

In the middle of the dish or round it set a fine heap of potatoes, cut into regular cubes of two-thirds inch side, or raised by means of an oval, grooved spoon-cutter. The potatoes should be cooked in butter and kept very soft.

Slightly sprinkle the potatoes with chopped parsley.

1121—TOURNEDOS PERSANE

Prepare as many green capsicums, stuffed with rice moulded to the shape of balls and braised, and as many grilled half-tomatoes as there are tournedos. Also have some fried slices of banana ready, and allow three for each tournedos.

Fry the tournedos in butter and dish them, in the form of a crown, on the grilled half-tomatoes. On each tournedos set a stuffed and braised capsicum.

In the centre of the dish arrange the fried slices of banana in a nice heap. Send separately to the table a Châteaubriand sauce, combined with the reduced braising-liquor of the capsicums.

1122—TOURNEDOS PERUVIENNE

Prepare, after the manner described below, as many oxalis roots as there are tournedos.

Peel the oxalis roots; cut a slice from underneath them, in order to make them stand upright, and hollow them out to form little cases.

Chop up the pulp extracted from them in the last operation, and add it to a preparation of duxelles, made as for stuffed mushrooms.

Fill the oxalis cases with this preparation, shaping it above their edges after the manner of a dome; besprinkle with raspings and oil, and put them in the oven in good time for them to be ready at the same time as the tournedos.

Grill the tournedos, dish them in the form of a crown, and surround them with the oxalis cases.

1123—TOURNEDOS PIÉMONTAISE

Butter as many tartlet-moulds as there are tournedos; fill them with Rizotto à la Piémontaise, combined with white truffles cut into dice, and keep them hot.

Fry the tournedos in clarified butter; dish them, in the form of a crown, on the rizotto tartlets, turned out at the last minute.

1124—TOURNEDOS

For ten tournedos, prepare (1) ten medium-sized mushrooms, stuffed with duxelles, slightly flavoured with garlic, and put in the oven in good time; (2) ten half-tomatoes à la Provençale (No. 2266).

Fry the tournedos in equal quantities of butter and oil; dish them, in the form of a crown, on fried crusts, with a half-tomato upon each, and around them set the stuffed mushrooms.

1125—TOURNEDOS RACHEL

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them, in the form of a crown, on fried crusts one-third inch thick.

On each tournedos set a small artichoke-bottom, garnished with a large slice of poached marrow.

Send a Bordelaise sauce separately.

1126—TOURNEDOS ROSSINI

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them, in the form of a crown, upon fried crusts.

On each tournedos set a round slice of foie gras, just a little smaller than the former; the slices should be seasoned, dredged, and fried in butter.

On each slice of foie-gras, set a fine slice of truffle.

1127—TOURNEDOS ROUMANILLE

Cut the tournedos a little smaller than usual. Season them; fry them in butter, and dish them in a circle on grilled half-tomatoes.

Coat the tournedos with Mornay sauce, and set them to glaze quickly.

In the middle of each tournedos set a large stuffed and poached olive, encircled by a ring consisting of an anchovy fillet.

In the centre of the dish arrange a fine heap of egg-plant roundels, seasoned with salt and pepper, dredged, fried in oil, and kept very crisp.

1128—TOURNEDOS SAINT MANDE

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them, in the form of a circle, each on a little cushion of “pommes de terre Macaire,” moulded in ordinary tartlet-moulds.

In the centre of the dish set a garnish consisting of peas cohered with butter.

1129—TOURNEDOS A LA SARDE

Prepare a garnish of (1) hollowed, parboiled, and braised sections of cucumber, stuffed with duxelles, and gratined; (2) small tomatoes, similarly treated; (3) small round croquettes of rice flavoured with saffron, thickened with egg-yolks, treated à l’anglaise, and fried.

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown.

Set a croquette of rice upon each tournedos, and frame the whole with the stuffed cucumber cases and the stuffed tomatoes, laid alternately.

1130—TOURNEDOS SOUBISE

Grill the tournedos and dish them in the form of a crown.

Serve a light Soubise purée separately.

1131—TOURNEDOS TIVOLI

For ten tournedos, prepare ten small grilled mushrooms, and allow one half-tomato tossed in butter for each mushroom.

Fry the tournedos in butter and dish them, in the form of a crown, upon fried crusts. On each tournedos set a grilled mushroom, garnished with a tossed half-tomato, and all round set some fine “pommes soufflées” made in ribbon-form, of a round shape, and in the proportion of one potato to each tournedos.

Send a Béarnaise sauce separately.

1132—TOURNEDOS TYROLIENNE

For ten tournedos, prepare the following sauce:—Gently cook one chopped onion in butter; add two peeled, pressed, and roughly-chopped tomatoes, salt, pepper, chopped parsley, and a little crushed garlic.

When the tomatoes are sufficiently cooked, add thereto a few tablespoonfuls of poivrade sauce, and set to boil for five minutes.

Fry the tournedos in butter; dish them in the form of a crown, and cover them with the prepared sauce.

1133—TOURNEDOS VALENÇAY

Fry the tournedos in butter; dish them in the form of a crown, each on a small, round, and flat croquette of noodles and ham, fried just before dishing up.

Send a Châteaubriand sauce separately.

1134—TOURNEDOS VALENTINO

Prepare as many pieces of turnips, of the same diameter as the tournedos and one and one-half inch thick, as there are tournedos. Cut them neatly round, stamp them with an even and round cutter, and parboil them until they are almost completely cooked. Hollow them out, by means of a spoon, inside the mark left by the fancy-cutter, and stuff them with a preparation of semolina with Parmesan.

Put these stuffed pieces of turnip in a sautépan; add a little water, butter, and sugar, and glaze them while finishing their cooking-process.

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in a circle, each on a stuffed case of turnip.

1135—TOURNEDOS VERT-PRÉ

Grill the tournedos, and dish them simply with half-melted butter à la Maître-d’Hôtel upon them.

Surround them with alternate heaps of water-cress and freshly-fried straw potatoes.

1136—TOURNEDOS VICTORIA

Fry the tournedos in butter.

Dish them in a circle, each on a little round and flat croquette of chicken-meat. On each tournedos set a half-tomato tossed in butter.

1137—TOURNEDOS VILLARET

Prepare (1) as many tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos; (2) a sufficient quantity of very smooth flageolet purée to garnish the tartlets; (3) a fine grilled tomato per each tournedos.

Grill the tournedos, and dish them on the garnished tartlets. On each tournedos set a grilled mushroom, the hollow of which should have been filled with Châteaubriand sauce.

1138—TOURNEDOS VILLENEUVE

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in a circle on little quoit-shaped croquettes of chicken-meat, fried at the last moment.

On each tournedos set a crown of small roundels of tongue and truffle, laid alternately, and a small grooved mushroom in the middle.

Send a Châteaubriand sauce separately.

1139—TOURNEDOS VILLEMER

Grill the tournedos, and dish them in a circle, each on a fried, hollowed-out crust, garnished with truffled Soubise.

On each tournedos set a large slice of truffle coated with meat-glaze.

1140—FILETS EN CHEVREUIL

For the “en chevreuil” treatment, the meat used is generally cut from the narrowest end of the fillet of beef. The weight of the pieces cut should average about three oz. each.

After having slightly flattened and trimmed them, lard them with very thin strips of bacon, and marinade them for a few hours in the raw marinade given under No. 169. When about to cook them, dry them thoroughly, and fry them quickly in hot oil, taking care that the latter be smoking, and therefore hot enough to set the meat and to cause its external moisture to evaporate.

The fillets may be accompanied by all vegetable purées and highly-seasoned sauces, the most suitable of the latter being the Poivrade and the Chasseur.

1141—SIRLOIN OF BEEF (Relevé)

Sirloin of beef is that part of the bullock’s back reaching from the haunch to the floating ribs, which is equivalent to the saddle in veal and mutton. This piece, however, cannot properly be called “sirloin,” except when it comprises the fillet or undercut, and the upper fillet (Fr.: contrefilet), so-called to distinguish it from the undercut. If this joint be treated whole, it need only be shortened by suppressing the flank, and by sectioning the ligament lying alongside of the chine on the upper fillet, in different places.

A little fat is left on the undercut, but none whatever must be removed from the upper fillet. As a rule, when sirloin of beef is braised, it is cut laterally into pieces weighing from six to seven lbs. If it is to be roasted, it is best to keep it whole.

When served as a relevé, it is braised or roasted, and is kept underdone if so desired. Unless it be of excellent quality, however, braised sirloin generally turns out to be dry.

All garnishes given for “Filet de Bœuf” may be served with sirloin; but, as a rule, the bulkiest, such as the “Richelieu,” the “Provençale,” the “Godard,” &c., are selected.

The accompanying sauce is that indicated for the above garnishes.

1142—PORTERHOUSE-STEAK (Grill)

Porterhouse-steak is a slice from the sirloin of beef, which may be more or less thick. It is cleared of the flank and of the bones of the chine, and it is always grilled.

It may be served with any of the various garnishes and sauces suited to grills; but it is more often served plain.

1143—UPPER FILLET AND RIBS OF BEEF (Relevé)

The upper fillet is that part of beef which lies between the top of the haunch and the floating ribs, alongside of the chine. It may be treated like the fillet, and all the garnishes suited to the latter may also be applied here.

If the piece is to be braised, it should be completely boned; if intended for roasting, it is best to retain the bones. In the latter case, the large ligament should be cut at various points with the view of preventing distortion, while the bones constituting the spinous process should be broken close to the point where they join the body of the vertebræ, that they may be easily removed when the meat is being carved.

The upper fillet, especially when it is of good quality, is best roasted.

Ribs of beef may likewise be braised or roasted.

In either case, the meat should be properly trimmed and cleared of all the bones of the spinous process.

This piece should only be used after having been well hung, in order that it may be as tender as possible.

1144—GRILLED SIRLOIN STEAKS AND RIBS OF BEEF

The sirloin steak may be cut either from the upper fillet or the ribs of beef, i.e., between two rib-bones. In order that its cooking may be regular, it should not weigh more than from two to three lbs.

Ribs of beef may also be grilled, provided they be sufficiently tender.

They may be braised, too, and in this case they are served with any of the various garnishes given under Fillet of Beef.

1145—PIÈCE DE BŒUF BRAISÉE (Relevé)

The piece of beef called rump is the one preferred for boiling and braising. Whatever be the use for which the meat is intended, the weight of the pieces should not be more than six or eight lbs. at the most, and they should be cut in the length rather than in the thickness, that the cooking process may be facilitated.

All the garnishes of braised sirloin of beef are suited to braised pieces of beef.

Boiled beef is generally accompanied by the vegetables used in its cooking-process, by purées, green or dry vegetables, pastes, macaroni, &c., &c.

1146—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA BOURGUIGNONNE

Lard the piece of beef, and marinade it for three hours in brandy and red wine. Braise it after the manner described under No. 247; moisten first with the wine of the marinade, and, when the latter is reduced, with some veal gravy and one-half pint of Espagnole sauce per quart of liquid, taking care that the whole moistening reaches the top of the piece of meat. Add a faggot and some mushroom parings; set to boil, and cook gently in the oven.

When the meat is two-thirds cooked, transfer it to another saucepan, and surround it with mushrooms cut into two or four, according to their size, and tossed in butter; breast of bacon, cutblanched and tossed in butter, and some small onions half-glazed with butter.

Strain the sauce through a sieve over the piece of beef and its garnish, and complete the cooking gently.

A few minutes before serving, put the meat on a dish and glaze it in the oven. Transfer the meat to the dish intended for the table; quickly reduce the sauce if necessary, and pour it over the piece of beef and the garnish.

1147—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA CUILLER

Select a very square or oval piece of beef, and bear in mind, in selecting it, that it will have to be fashioned to the shape of a case when it has been cooked.

String it, and braise it after the manner described under No. 247, almost entirely covering it with moistening liquor.

Set it to cook gently; withdraw the piece when the meat is still somewhat firm, and let it cool under slight pressure.

This done, cut out the meat from the inside; leave a thickness of about half-inch round the sides and on the bottom, and the piece thus emptied should constitute a square or oval case, in accordance with the shape originally adopted.

Coat the outside of the whole piece with a mixture of beaten eggs and fine bread-crumbs, combined with Parmesan; sprinkle melted butter over it with a brush, and put the case into a sufficiently hot oven to allow of a crust forming round it.

Meanwhile chop up the meat extracted from the inside of the piece; add thereto a little salted tongue, some braised slices of sweet-bread, and mushrooms; put the whole into a sautépan with an Italian or a half-glaze sauce, according to the requirements, and heat this garnish.

N.B.—This preparation was quite common in old-fashioned cookery, but though it is still served occasionally, it is now looked upon more as a curiosity than anything else. As a curiosity, therefore, I chose to include it among these recipes; but it does not follow from this that I in any way recommend it.

1148—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA FLAMANDE

Lard the piece of beef, and braise it as explained under No. 247.

Meanwhile prepare the following garnish:—(1) Cut a nice firm cabbage into four, remove the heart, and parboil it for seven or eight minutes. Drain it; cool it; divide up the quarters, leaf by leaf, so as to remove the hard ribs, and season with salt and pepper.

Mould them to the shape of balls by pressing them in the corner of a towel into balls weighing about three oz. each, or simply put them into a saucepan with a quartered carrot, an onion stuck with a clove, a faggot, six oz. of blanched breast of pork, and a little raw sausage with garlic, which latter must be withdrawn after cooking has gone on for one and one-half hours.

Moisten the cabbage with just sufficient consommé to cover it; add a few tablespoonfuls of good stock-fat; set to boil, and cook gently in the oven for one and one-half hours.

(2) Cut the required quantity of carrots and turnips to the shape of olives; cook them in consommé, and reduce the latter for the purpose of glazing.

(3) Prepare some potatoes à l’anglaise.

Set the piece of beef on a dish large enough to allow of the former being surrounded with the moulded or plainly-heaped cabbages, the glazed carrots and turnips, and the potatoes à l’anglaise. The last two vegetables should be set in alternate heaps with the cabbages and the bacon (cut into small rectangles) and the sausage (cut into roundels) should be distributed all round.

Serve separately the gravy of the piece of beef, cleared of all grease, reduced to a half-glaze and strained.

1149—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA MODE CHAUDE

Lard the piece of beef, which should not, if possible, weigh more than from four to five lbs. The strips of bacon used for larding ought to have been prepared fifteen or twenty minutes in advance, marinaded in a few tablespoonfuls of brandy, and sprinkled with parsley just before being used.

Rub the piece with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and put it into a basin with one bottle of red wine and one-fifth pint of brandy, and set it to marinade for four or five hours, taking care to turn it over from time to time.

Then set it to braise after the manner described under No. 247; add its marinade to the moistening, and surround it with three small, boned, blanched, and strung calf’s feet.

When the cooking is three-quarters done, transfer the piece of beef to another saucepan, and surround it with the following garnish:—

1. About one-quarter lb. of carrots turned to the shape of elongated olives, and already two-thirds cooked.

2. Small onions coloured in two-thirds lb. of butter.

3. The calf’s feet cut into small, square, or rectangular pieces.

Strain the braising-liquor over the whole, and complete the cooking gently. When about to serve, either glaze the piece of beef, or dish it plain; coat it lightly with sauce, and send what remains of the latter, with the garnish, in a timbale.

1150—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA MODE FROIDE

Bœuf à la mode is very rarely prepared specially for cold dishing, the remains of a fine piece being generally used for that purpose. The piece of meat must first be well trimmed. If the quantity of sauce do not seem enough, or if the sauce itself seem too stiff, add a third of its volume of aspic jelly to it.

For moulding, take a terrine à pâté, a mould, or other utensil capable of holding the piece of meat, its garnish, and its sauce. Deck the bottom of the utensil in any suitable way with the carrots and the onions, and surround the piece with what remains of the latter and the dice of calf’s foot.

Add the sauce, combined with the jelly, after having passed it through a strainer, and put the whole in the cool for a few hours. Turn out just before serving, and surround with very light, chopped jelly.

1151—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA NOAILLES

Lard the piece of beef, and marinade it in brandy and red wine.

This done, dry it thoroughly, and brown it evenly in butter all over; moisten it with its marinade and an equal quantity of veal gravy, and set to cook gently.

When the meat is half-cooked, surround it with two lbs. of minced onions, tossed in butter, and three oz. of rice. Complete the cooking of the piece with onions and rice.

Now withdraw the piece of beef, and quickly rub the onions and the rice through tammy. Reduce this Soubise with rice for a few moments.

Neatly trim the piece of beef; cut it into even slices; reconstruct it on a dish, and between each slice pour a tablespoonful of Soubise purée.

Cover the reconstructed piece of beef with the remainder of the Soubise; sprinkle the surface with two tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs fried in butter, and some melted butter, and put the whole in the oven, that the gratin may form speedily.

1152—THE RUMP

Rumpsteak and Beefsteak.

The rump is that portion of the sirloin of beef which touches the top of the haunch.

It may be braised, but it is more often grilled in slices from one inch to one and one-half inches thick, which are called “rumpsteaks.”

With reference to this subject, it is as well to point out that the term “Beefsteak,” so hackneyed in France, is scarcely used in England, owing to its want of precision.

In France, beefsteak is either a cut from the fillet, the upper-fillet, or the rump, according to the standing of the catering-house which supplies it. But the nature of the piece cannot very well be mistaken, inasmuch as the term beefsteak, which designates it, is generally followed by other French words which reveal its origin, whereas in England the term “Beefsteak” does not convey any particular meaning.

Rumpsteak is either grilled or sautéd, but whatever be the method of cooking it, it is generally served plain.

All garnishes suited to fillets, however, may be served with it, as also the various butters and sauces generally used with grills.

1153—LANGUE DE BŒUF

Ox tongue is served fresh or salted, but, even when it is to be served fresh, it is all the better for having been put in salt a few days previously. In order to salt it, put it into a special brine, as explained under No. 172. When salted, it is cooked in boiling water; when fresh, it is braised exactly after the manner of any other piece of meat.

Ox tongue may be served with almost all the garnishes suited to relevés of fillet of beef, but more particularly with the following:—Bourgeoise; Flamande; Milanaise; Noodles or Macaroni with cream, cheese or tomatoes; and all vegetable purées.

The most suitable sauces are:—Madeira sauce, Piquante sauce, Tomato sauce, or their derivatives.

1154—LANGUE DE BŒUF CHOUCROÛTE

Braise the tongue as described under No. 247, and glaze it at the last moment. Dish it, and send to the table separately (1) a timbale of well-braised sauerkraut; (2) a timbale of potato purée; (3) a Madeira sauce, combined with the braising-liquor of the tongue, cleared of all grease, and reduced.

1155—LANGUE DE BŒUF BOURGEOISE

Braise the tongue in the usual way.

When it is two-thirds cooked, surround it with carrots fashioned to the shape of olives and already two-thirds cooked, and small onions browned in butter.

Complete the cooking gently, and for the rest of the operation, proceed as for “Pièce

1156—LANGUE DE BŒUF AUX FÈVES

Tongue intended for this preparation should be put in salt a few days in advance.

Boil it in the usual way and very gently; glaze it when about to serve, and dish it. Send to the table separately (1) a timbale of very fresh, skinned, broad beans, cooked in salted water with a spray of savory, and cohered with butter at the last moment.

(2) A Madeira sauce.

1157—LANGUE DE BŒUF FLAMANDE

Braise the tongue, and glaze it at the last moment. Surround it with the garnish “à la Flamande” given under the beef recipe of that name, i.e., braised cabbages, glazed carrots and turnips, potatoes à l’anglaise, rectangles of lean bacon, and roundels of sausage.

1158—LANGUES DE BŒUF FROIDES

Ox tongues intended for cold dishing should be kept in brine (No. 172) for eight or ten days. When about to use them, put them to soak in cold water for a few hours, and then cook them plainly in water for three hours.

This done, withdraw them from their cooking-liquor; skin them; cover them with buttered paper, and let them cool. The object of the paper is to keep off the air, the tendency of which is to blacken the surface of the meat.

When quite cool, coat the tongues with a glaze composed of one-half lb. of gelatine dissolved in one pint of water; the latter is given a scarlet tint by means of carmine and caramel.

Cold ox tongues are dished amidst aspic jelly dice and curled-leaf parsley.

N.B.—The gelatine glaze described above will be found a great improvement upon the coating of reddened gold-beaters’ skin.

OX TAILS.

Ox tails, sectioned or unsectioned, are usually braised, and only the thicker half of the caudal appendage is ever used.

1159—QUEUE DE BŒUF A L’AUVERGNATE

Section the tail, and braise it in white wine, after recipe No. 247.

Prepare a garnish of rectangles of lean bacon, large chestnuts cooked in consommé and glazed, and small onions cooked in butter.

Put the sections of the tail in an earthenware cocotte with the garnish.

1160—QUEUE DE BŒUF A LA CAVOUR

Section the tail, and braise it in a moistening two-thirds of which is brown stock and one-third white wine. It is well for the moistening to be somewhat abundant. Set to cook very gently, until the meat falls from the bones, i.e., for a matter of about four and one-half or five hours.

This done, dish the sections of the tail in a cocotte; add some small, cooked mushrooms; clear the cooking-liquor of grease; reduce it, and thicken it slightly with fecula. Strain this thickened cooking-liquor over the sections of the tail and the mushrooms, and set to boil very gently for ten minutes.

Serve thus in the cocotte set on a dish, and send a timbale of chestnut purée to the table at the same time.

1161—QUEUE DE BŒUF FARCIE

Choose a large ox tail, and bone it carefully without bursting it.

Lay it on a napkin, and stuff it with a forcemeat consisting of the following ingredients:—Three-quarters lb. of very lean beef and one-half lb. of chopped fat bacon, the two mixed with four oz. of bread-crumbs soaked in milk and pressed; two whole eggs; three oz. of truffle peel; one-half oz. of salt, a pinch of pepper, and a very little spice.

Sew up the tail, cover it with a piece of linen after the manner of a galantine, and cook it gently for three hours in a very light stock with vegetables as for boiled beef.

At the end of the three hours take it out of the linen; put it into a sautépan, the bottom of which should be garnished as for a braising; add a little of the cooking-liquor of the tail, and complete the cooking, basting often the while. Take care to baste more frequently towards the close of the operation with the view of properly glazing the meat.

When about to serve, dish it, after having removed all string, and lightly coat the bottom of the dish with a sauce consisting of the cooking-liquor, reduced and thickened with arrow-root. Send what remains of the cooking-liquor in a sauceboat.

Serve separately either a purée, a garnish of braised vegetables, or one of the sauces suited to pieces of beef.

1162—QUEUE DE BŒUF GRILLÉE

Cut the tail into sections twice the usual length, and cook these in a stewpan for five hours with salted water and aromatics.

Drain the sections; dry them well; dip them in melted butter, and roll them in very fine bread-crumbs. Sprinkle with melted butter, and set to grill gently.

Grilled ox tail may be served with any vegetable purée. An ordinary Soubise, or one prepared “à la Noailles,” as explained under the piece of beef of that name, also suits very well.

In any case, the Soubise should be sufficiently thick.

Such sauces as à la Diable, Hachée, Piquante, Robert, Tomato, Italienne, &c., are also suited to grilled ox tail.

N.B.—When the adjunct to grilled ox tail is a highly-seasoned sauce, the sections should first be covered with a coat of mustard, then dipped in melted butter, and finally rolled in bread-crumbs.

1163—QUEUE DE BŒUF EN HOCHEPOT

Cut the tail into sections, and put these into a stewpan of convenient size, with two pig’s trotters, each of which must be cut into four or five pieces, and one pig’s ear. Cover the whole with cold water; add salt to the extent of one-third oz. per quart of the liquid; set to boil; skim, and leave to cook gently for two hours.

This done, add one small cabbage, cut into quarters, parboiled and cooled; ten small onions; five oz. of carrots, and the same weight of turnips, cut to the shape of large, garlic cloves.

Set the whole to cook for a further two hours at least.

When about to serve, dish the sections of tail in a circle; put the vegetable garnish in the centre, and surround the latter with the pig’s ear cut into small, narrow strips, and ten grilled chipolata sausages.

Serve, separately, a timbale of potatoes cooked à l’anglaise.

Various Preparations of Beef.

1164—STEWED STEAKS AND ONIONS

Select some steaks one and one-third inches thick; fry them in butter on both sides, and set them to braise in short moistening, with a sufficient quantity of quartered and browned onions to constitute an abundant garnish.

Leave the whole to cook gently for three hours.

Dish the steak, and surround it with the onions and the braising-liquor cleared of all grease and reduced.

1165—SALT BEEF

The pieces of beef chiefly selected for salting are brisket, silver side, and round of beef, and these are always boiled for a more or less lengthy period, according to their size.

To the cooking-liquor is added a copious garnish of carrots and turnips. These are served with the meat, together with a sauceboat of cooking-liquor and a suet dumpling, prepared as follows:—

1166—SUET DUMPLING

Finely chop up some suet; add to it an equal quantity of flour and about one-quarter oz. of salt per lb. of suet and flour.

Moisten with just enough water to make a thick paste of about the same consistence as brioche-paste. Cut this paste into portions weighing about one oz., and roll them into small balls. Put the latter in a sautépan containing some boiling beef cooking-liquor, which need not have been cleared of grease, and let them poach for one and one-half hours.

Now drain the dumplings, and arrange them around the meat with the garnish of carrots and turnips, as explained above.

1167—COLD SALT BEEF

Salt beef, served cold, constitutes an excellent sideboard dish for luncheons.

It need only be neatly trimmed all round, care being taken to preserve all the fat so highly esteemed by some. Indeed, a piece of cold salt fat is sometimes added to that already existing around and in the meat, in which case the extra quantity is fixed to the beef by means of a hatelet.

1168—PRESSED BEEF

Salt beef also serves in the preparation of “Pressed Beef,” but, for this purpose, the breast is generally used.

After having thoroughly cooked the salted breast of beef in accordance with the procedure indicated for salt beef, cut it into large pieces of the same size as the moulds into which the meat is going to be pressed. Lay the pieces of beef one on top of another in a square or rectangular mould, and cover with a thick board, cut flush with the inside edge of the mould. Now apply pressure, either by means of a strong press or heavy weight, and leave the beef to cool under the applied pressure.

When the meat is quite cold, turn it out; trim it carefully on all sides, and glaze it, i.e., cover it entirely with a coating of rather firm, clarified gelatine, brought by means of carmine and caramel to a nice red-brown colour.

1169—STEAK AND KIDNEY PUDDING

Cut three lbs. of very lean beef into slices one-third inch thick.

Season these slices with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and add a little chopped onion and parsley. Take a pudding-basin; line it with a firm layer of suet-dough (No. 1166), and garnish the bottom and sides of the basin with the slices of beef.

In the middle put one lb. of kidney of beef, of veal, or of mutton, cut up as for tossing, and seasoned like the steaks. Moisten with just sufficient water to cover.

Now close up the basin with a layer of the same paste as that used in lining, pinching it with the latter, all round, that it may adhere thoroughly. In order to effect this with greater certainty, the respective edges of the two layers of paste may be moistened.

This done, cover the basin with a buttered and dredged napkin, fastened on by means of string tied round just beneath the lip of the utensil. Cook for five hours, either in boiling water or in steam, and, after having removed the napkin, serve the pudding as it stands.

1170—STEAK PUDDING

Make some rather stiff paste with two lbs. of flour, one and one-quarter lbs. of the chopped fat of kidney of beef, a pinch of salt, and one-quarter pint of water.

With the rolling-pin, roll out this paste to a round layer one-quarter inch thick, and put it into a buttered dome-mould or pudding-basin.

Cut the lean beef into pieces, and season them, exactly as for steak and kidney pudding. Fill up the basin with the pieces arranged in layers; moisten with just enough water to cover, and close up the basin with a layer of the same paste as that used for its lining.

Carefully join the edges of the two layers of paste, assisting the operation with a little moisture applied by means of a brush; swathe the basin in a buttered pudding-cloth, and fasten the latter firmly with string.

Put the pudding in a saucepan of boiling water or a steamer, and leave it to cook for three hours if the beef has been cut from the fillet, and for four hours if cut from any other piece.

At the end of the required time take the pudding out of the saucepan and remove the cloth.

Dish on a folded napkin.

1171—STEAK AND OYSTER PUDDING

Proceed exactly as for steak and kidney pudding, but take only two lbs. of beef, and replace the odd pound by forty fine oysters.

1172—DAUBE CHAUDE A LA PROVENÇALE

Cut four lbs. of shoulder or cushion of beef into cubes weighing about four oz. each. Lard each piece of meat with a strip of bacon two inches long by one-half inch wide, and put the cubes or pieces into a bowl with salt, pepper, a very little spice, five or six tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and a glass of red wine. Leave to marinade for two or three hours, and toss the pieces, from time to time, in the marinading liquor, in order that each may be well saturated with it. Heat six oz. of grated bacon in an earthenware stewpan, and brown therein twelve small onions, fifteen carrots in the shape of olives, two sticks of celery cut into pieces of the same size as the carrots, and four cloves of garlic. Add the marinaded pieces of meat, which should have been properly dried; fry the whole, meat and vegetables, for a further seven or eight minutes, and moisten with the marinade and two glasses more of red wine.

Complete with one-half lb. of fresh bacon rind, blanched and cut into square pieces of two-thirds inch side; a faggot made up of parsley stalks, thyme, bay, and, in the centre, a small piece of dry lemon rind. Set to boil, completely close the stewpan, and leave to cook in a moderate oven for six or seven hours.

When about to serve, remove the faggot, clear all grease from the gravy, and dish in a hot timbale, or serve the “daube” in the stewpan itself.

1173—DAUBE A LA PROVENÇALE FROIDE

A daube is rarely prepared specially for cold dishing; generally the remains of one already served hot are used.

Take the pieces, one by one, with a fork, and place them in a terrine à pâté with the carrots, onions, and squares of bacon rind, which have remained almost untouched.

Strain the gravy over them through an ordinary strainer, pressing lightly the while, and leave to cool.

When about to serve, turn out the daube on a cold dish, and surround with chopped aspic jelly.

1174—CARBONNADES A LA FLAMANDE

Cut three lbs. of lean shoulder or cushion of beef into thin, short slices. Season the latter with salt and pepper, and brown them quickly on both sides in stock fat. At the same time toss one and one-quarter lbs. of minced onions in butter, until they are well browned.

Put the slices of beef and the onions in alternate layers into a saucepan, and in their midst place a faggot.

Drain the grease from the sautépan in which the slices were fried; swill with one and one-half pints of beer (old Lambic in preference); add the same quantity of brown stock, thicken with four oz. of brown roux; finish the seasoning with one and one-half oz. of powdered sugar; set to boil, stirring the while, and strain this sauce over the slices of beef and the onions.

Cover and cook gently in the oven for from two and one-half to three hours.

N.B.—Carbonnadeswith a Soubise consisting of the onion and the sauce rubbed through tammy.

1175—ÉMINCÉ DE BŒUF

Cold roast or boiled meats may be warmed up in many different ways.

In their preparation, however, the reader should follow one rule, the non-observance of which invariably leads to failure.

Whatever the meat be, it should first be cut into the thinnest possible slices; set on a dish, and covered with a boiling sauce or garnish, which should effect its warming up. If the meat boil in the sauce or garnish, it toughens, and this, above all, should be avoided when roast meat is used.

Sauces suited to Émincés are the Bordelaise, the Piquante, the Italienne, the Chasseur, the Poivrade, the Périgueux, and the Tomato.

1176—ÉMINCÉ DE BŒUF EN MIROTON

For one lb. of beef mince two fine onions somewhat finely, and toss them in butter until they are evenly and well gilded.

Sprinkle with one-half tablespoonful of flour; set to cook for a moment, and then moisten with one-half glassful of white wine and one-half pint of consommé; season with a pinch of pepper; boil, and leave to cook gently for seven or eight minutes.

The flour may be dispensed with, but, in this case, the white wine is reduced to two-thirds, one-half pint of half-glaze is added, and the whole is cooked for seven or eight minutes.

Cut the beef into very thin slices, and set these on a dish.

A minute before serving, add a few drops of vinegar to the onions; cover the meat with the onions and the sauce; stand the dish for a moment on the hob, and sprinkle it slightly with chopped parsley.

N.B.—When the miroton is prepared with boiled beef, the slices should be cut somewhat more thickly, and left to simmer gently in the sauce for as long as possible

The miroton is then dished with some minced gherkins, sprinkled with raspings, and placed in the oven at the last moment for the gratin to form.

1177—GOULASH DE BŒUF A LA HONGROISE

Cut three lbs. of ribs or shoulder of beef into squares weighing about three oz. each. Fry these pieces on a moderate fire in four oz. of lard, together with one-half lb. of onions cut into large dice, until the latter acquire a nice, even, golden colour. Season with one-third oz. of salt and the necessary quantity of paprika; add one and one-quarter lbs. of peeled, pressed, and quartered tomatoes, and one-sixth pint of water.

Cover and cook in the oven for one and one-half hours.

This done, add one-third pint of water and one and one-quarter lbs. of quartered potatoes to the Goulash.

Continue the cooking in the oven, basting often the while, and do not stop the operation until the moistening-liquor is entirely reduced. When about to serve, dish the Goulash in a timbale.

1178—HACHIS DE BŒUF A L’AMÉRICAINE

Cut the meat into small cubes.

Also cut into dice the same weight of potatoes as of meat.

Season these potatoes and toss them in butter.

This done, put half their quantity into a saucepan with the meat dice, and cohere the whole with a few tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce and reduced veal gravy. Heat without allowing to boil; dish in a hot timbale; distribute the remainder of the potatoes, which should be crisply fried, over the hash, and sprinkle with a pinch of freshly-chopped parsley.

1179—HACHIS DE BŒUF PARMENTIER

Bake some fine potatoes in the oven.

The moment they are done, slice off a piece of their baked shell, and remove the pulp from their insides by means of a spoon handle.

Crush this pulp with a fork, and toss it in butter as for “pommes de terre Macaire.” Then add to it as much beef in dice as there is pulp; two tablespoonfuls of chopped onion cooked in butter per lb. of the preparation; a pinch of chopped parsley, and a few drops of vinegar. Now toss the whole together for a few minutes, and then fill the empty potato shells with the preparation.

Sprinkle with Lyonnaise sauce rubbed through tammy, and add as much of it as the hash will absorb.

Replace the portion of shell cut off at the first, that the potatoes may seem untouched; arrange them on a dish, and put the latter in the oven for ten minutes. When about to serve, dish the stuffed potatoes on a napkin.

1180—TRIPES A LA MODE DE CAEN

In the preparation of this culinary speciality of Normandy, a very common mistake is often made; to wit, that of using calves’ feet instead of those of the ox, an innovation to which there are many objections.

In the first place, the gravy of the tripe cannot absorb so much gelatine, and is indifferently thickened in consequence; secondly, since calves’ feet are much more tender than those of the ox, the former get boiled to shreds before the cooking of the tripe has been properly effected. This supposed improvement on the old method is thus seen to actually run counter to the end in view; but means there are, nevertheless, whereby those who insist upon the use of calves’ feet may be satisfied. It is only necessary to braise a number of calves’ feet beforehand, the number being in proportion to the quantity of tripe, and to add these to the latter a quarter of an hour before serving.

Another mistake which obtains somewhat widely in respect of this dish is the serving of it in a silver utensil—a method quite as unreasonable as that of serving a Chaudfroid in an earthenware dish.

By virtue of its simplicity, tripe should be served in either sandstone or special earthenware stewpans, wherein heat is best retained; and the operator should rather direct his attention to the serving of tripe as hot as possible, than to this or that fanciful method of dishing, which really has no raison d’être in this case.

The Preparation of Tripe.—Under the head of “beef tripe” are understood: (1) The feet; (2) tripe proper, which comprises the Paunch, the Honey-comb Bag, the Manyplies, and the Reed.

First soak the tripe in cold water for some considerable time; then cut it into squares of two inches side.

For the seasoning and flavouring of tripe, complete in all its parts, take: (Seasoning) one-quarter oz. of salt and a pinch of pepper per lb.; (flavouring) four lbs. of onions stuck with four cloves; three lbs. of carrots; one faggot, comprising two lbs. of leeks, one-third lb. of parsley stalks, a sprig of thyme, and a bay leaf.

Moisten with two quarts of good cider (not likely to turn black while cooking, otherwise use water); one-half pint of brandy or liqueur-cider.

The quantity of the moistening-liquor largely depends upon the shape of the utensil; a little less will be needed in the case of a narrow one, and a little more in the case of a wide one.

In any case, however, the tripe should be just covered.

Treatment and Cooking-process.—Take a stewpan or braising-pan, just large enough to hold the tripe and the garnish.

On the bottom of this lay carrots, onions, seasoning, and the four ox feet, bound and cut into fair-sized pieces.

Add the tripe, placing the faggot in its midst; upon the tripe lay the bones of the feet, broken lengthwise; some slices of beef-fat, well soaked in cold water; and, finally, the moistening.

Cover the whole with a kind of galette of paste, consisting of flour mixed with hot water and kept somewhat stiff, and fix the paste well on to the edges of the utensil.

Place in the oven, and, when about two hours have elapsed and the paste is well baked, close the utensil with its own cover.

In a regular and moderate oven, allow about ten hours for the cooking.

The Dishing and Serving.—After taking the tripe out of the oven, remove the cover of paste, the bones, the fat, the carrots, the onions, and the faggot, and by means of a slice withdraw the pieces of tripe and set them in the special earthenware bowls, taking care to distribute the pieces, coming from different portions of tripe, in such wise as to meet the demands or fancies of the various consumers.

When the tripe has been transferred to the bowls, clear the gravy of all grease, and dole it out evenly among the number of receptacles. It is best, now, to put the latter in a bain-marie, for they must only be served quite hot, on chafers or otherwise.

N.B.—(1) To make the dish to perfection, the tripe should be put into special earthenware pots (wherein the heat is more effectively concentrated), and cooked in a baker’s or pastry-cook’s oven.

I dealt with the alternative of cooking tripe in a stewpan in order to make provision for those who can avail themselves of neither special pots nor a baker’s oven.

(2) The measures I prescribe, namely, those of first laying the slices of beef-fat upon the tripe, and then covering the whole with a lid of paste, are intended to stop a too rapid evaporation of the liquid—a contingency that must be guarded against, more particularly in a kitchen oven—and to preserve the whiteness of the tripe.

The cover of paste would be quite useless if a baker’s oven were available, for the latter not only ensures perfectly regular heat, but also wanes regularly.

2. VEAL.

With the exception of veal sweetbreads, it cannot be denied that this meat is considerably less popular in England than abroad, nor does it ever seem to appear on important menus in this country.

Of course, and the fact must not be lost sight of, English veal is admittedly inferior in quality—badly fattened, and mostly red, soft, and dry. Probably, therefore, its unpopularity may be the indirect cause of its poor quality; for it is inconceivable that a country so famous for cattle-rearing as England undoubtedly is could not produce veal equal in quality to its beef, mutton, and pork, if rearers thought it worth their while to perfect that special branch of their business. Be this as it may, almost all the best veal consumed in England comes from the Continent, principally from France, Belgium, and Holland; and, in this respect, I not only refer to the larger joints, but to those odd parts such as the head, the liver, the sweetbreads, &c., the continental quality of which is likewise very superior to that of the English produce.

1181—SELLE DE VEAU (Relevé)

Saddle of veal is the only Relevé of this meat which is sometimes allowed to appear on an important menu, and it is, in fact, a splendid and succulent joint.

It may be roasted, but I should urge the adoption of the braising treatment, not only as a precaution against dryness, but because of the fine stock yielded by the operation.

Whatever be the method of cooking, trim the saddle on one side, flush with the bones of the pelvis, and up to the first ribs on the other side. Then cut out the kidneys, leaving a thick layer of fat on the under fillets or “filets mignons”; pare the flank on either side, in such wise that what is left of it, when drawn under the saddle on either side, may just cover the fillets above referred to. This flank should only be drawn over the fillets after the inside of the joint has been salted; then cover the top surface of the joint with slices of bacon, and tie round with string, five or six times, that the bacon and the flank may not shift.

When the saddle is intended for only a small number of people, half of it may be used at a time; that is to say, one fillet, in which case the joint may be cut in two, lengthwise.

The procedure for braising this piece is in pursuance of the directions given under “The Braising of White Meats” (No. 248).

The process of braising, whether it be in respect of the saddle or other veal Relevés, such as the cushion, the loin, the neck, &c., demands particular care, must be accompanied by frequent basting, and should always be carried on with short moistening.

1182—SELLE DE VEAU A LA CHARTREUSE

Braise the saddle, and glaze it at the last moment, after having removed the slices of bacon. Set it on a long dish, and, at each end of the latter, place a chartreuse of vegetables.

Round the joint put a few tablespoonfuls of the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced, and well-strained; and serve what remains in a sauceboat.

Chartreuses of Vegetables.—Take two dome- or Charlotte-moulds, capable of holding two-thirds of a quart. Butter them liberally; line them with buttered paper, and on the latter, over the bottom and sides of the utensil, lay carrots, turnips, peas, and French beans; each of which vegetables should be cooked in a way suited to its nature. This operation, which is somewhat finicking, may either be effected on the plan of a draught-board, or the different vegetables may be superposed in alternate rows of varying colours.

When the moulds are garnished in this way, spread thereon, over the vegetables, a layer of forcemeat softened with beaten white of egg; the object of this measure is to keep the vegetable decoration in position, and this is effected by the poaching of the forcemeat before the chartreuse is filled with its garnish.

This done, fill the moulds to within one-third inch of their brims with a Macédoine of vegetables cohered by means of stiff Béchamel and cream, and cover with a layer of forcemeat.