Part 2 — CHAPTER XVI POULTRY (VOLAILLE)

CHAPTER XVI POULTRY (VOLAILLE)

Although the term “poultry” (Fr. volaille), in its general sense, implies Turkeys, Geese, Ducks and Pigeons, just as well as Fowls, only the latter are meant, from the culinary standpoint, when the word “Volaille” appears on a menu.

Four qualities of fowl are recognised in cookery, and each plays its part, has its uses, and is quite distinct from the other three. We have:—

(1) Pullets and capons; usually served whole, either as relevés or roasts.

(2) Chickens, so-called “à la Reine”; used for sautés and chiefly for roasts.

(3) Spring chickens; best suited to en cocotte or grilled preparations.

(4) Chicks; served only en cocotte or grilled.

Suprêmes and ailerons of fowl, which are among the finest entrées, are supplied by chickens à la Reine or by Spring chickens.

Finally, there are the giblets, consisting of the pinions, necks, gizzards, and livers of fowl, which give rise to a number of preparations, the recipes whereof I shall give briefly at the end of the series.

1443—PULLETS AND CAPONS FOR RELEVÉS

Pullets and capons for relevés and entrées are poached or poëled; sometimes, but more rarely, they are braised.

The birds to be treated by poaching are trussed with the claws folded back and inserted into the belly; their fillets and legs are rubbed with lemon, so as to keep them white, and they are then covered with thin slices of larding bacon.

The ingredients for chicken poaching stock were given under No. 249. The bird is known to be cooked when the blood which issues from a prick on the leg is white or faintly pink.

These fowls are sometimes larded or studded. When this is to be done, dip the legs and belly of a trussed and lemon-rubbed fowl into boiling white stock; this will be found to sufficiently harden the flesh to allow of its being treated in the required way. The products used for studding and larding are, according to circumstances, ham or tongue, truffles or mushrooms, and sometimes, the red part of a carrot for the larding. Only truffles, ham and tongue are used for studding.

Poëled fowls are trussed as above; they are covered with slices of bacon in order that the fillets may be protected during the first stages of the cooking; then they are cooked in butter on poëling-aromatics, under cover and in a deep, thick saucepan. When the piece is almost cooked, just moisten it a little, either with rich poultry-stock, with the cooking-liquor of truffles or mushrooms, with Madeira, red or white wine, &c. This moistening serves in the basting of the fowl and must therefore be renewed if it reduces too quickly. After having been cleared of all grease, it is always added to the sauce which accompanies the piece of poultry.

Braised fowls are always treated after the manner described under No. 248; they are not rubbed with lemon, but they are covered with slices of bacon. The latter should only cover the breast, but be thick, notwithstanding; for they protect the belly, which, without them, would shrivel by the time the legs cooked.

The covering of bacon is essential to all pieces of poultry, whether these be poached, poëled, braised or roasted.

1444—THE WAY TO SERVE POULTRY RELEVÉS QUICKLY AND HOT

I feel bound to call the reader’s attention to this very important point in culinary work:—

Owing to the difficulties involved in the carving of the fowl and the placing and arranging of the pieces and their garnish upon the consumers’ plates—both of which operations require dexterity and expertness, which those in charge very often do not possess, or thanks to the inefficiency of particular installations, or what not, I have noticed for some considerable time, that the method of serving large pieces of poultry is, in many cases, very far from being the right one.

For, indeed, how often does not the diner find himself presented with a plate of fowl which is neither appetisingly dainty nor yet sufficiently hot! It follows from this, that all the care and trouble devoted by a chef to the preparation of the dish are entirely wasted. Now, I have tried to improve this state of affairs, by planning a method of serving which would be at once simple and expeditious, without necessarily being devoid of tastefulness and presentability.

In the first place, it is my practice to remove the fowl’s two suprêmes, in the kitchen, and to keep them warm in a little cooking-liquor until the last minute. Secondly, I remove all the bones of the breast, and I reconstruct the fowl with a garnish in keeping with the dish, i.e., either a mousseline forcemeat, pilaff rice combined with cream, foie gras and truffles, spaghetti, or noodles with cream.

Having properly smoothed and arranged the selected garnish, the fowl may now be placed, either at one end of any but a round dish, or on a low cushion of fried bread, on which it may be set firmly.

It may also be entirely coated with Mornay sauce, sprinkled with grated cheese, and speedily glazed.

When the body of the bird is dished, its garnish should be set round it in fine, tartlet crusts; its suprêmes, quickly sliced, should be distributed among the tartlets, and the dish sent to the table with the sauce separately.

By this means, it reaches the table hot, it is served quickly and cleanly; and every person gets a slice of meat, and not garnish only, as was so often the case formerly.

Instead of tartlets, one may use thin croûtons of bread, of the size of the slices of chicken, and fried in fresh butter.

Thus, for a “Poularde à la Derby,” after having stuffed the pullet with rice, suppressed the bones of the breast, and removed the suprêmes; all that is necessary is to properly shape the rice, and to dish the fowl on a cushion.

This done, prepare as many croûtons and slices of foie-gras, sautéd in butter, as there are diners, and arrange them round the pullet—the slices of foie-gras lying on the croûtons. Now, quickly cut the suprêmes into slices; put one of these on each slice of foie-gras, and on each of the latter put a slice of truffle. Put the pullet, thus prepared, in the oven for a few minutes; let it get very hot, and send it to the table with the sauce separately.

In the dining-room the Maître-d’hôtel quickly serves the garnished croûtons on hot plates, beside each croûton he puts a tablespoonful of the rice with which the pullet has been stuffed, and, finally, a tablespoonful of sauce.

In less than two minutes after its entrance into the dining-room, the pullet is thus served warm to each person.

Of course, the above measures refer to the fowl that has to be dished whole and presented; but, when this is not required, the rice withdrawn from the cooked bird need only be set in the centre of a deep, square entrée dish (fitted with a cover), and surrounded by the sliced suprêmes, with intercalated slices of foie-gras and truffle. The sauce is also served separately in this case. Cover the dish, so that it may stand and keep hot a few minutes, if necessary, without spoiling.

The legs, which are rarely served at a well-ordered dinner, remain in the kitchen together with the carcass.

I cannot too strongly recommend the system just described, whenever the circumstances allow of its being put into practice. It is the only one that ensures an efficient service, calculated to give entire satisfaction to all concerned.

1445—POULARDE ALBUFERA

Stuff the pullet with the rice prescribed under No. 2256, and poach it. Dish it and coat with Albuféra sauce.

Surround with small tartlet crusts, garnished with truffles raised by means of a spoon the size of a pea; quenelles of the same shape; small button mushrooms, and cocks’ kidneys. Cohere this garnish with Albuféra sauce.

Between each tartlet, place a slice of salted tongue, cut to the shape of a cock’s comb.

1446—POULARDE ALEXANDRA

Having larded the pullet with tongue and truffle, poach it.

This done, remove the suprêmes, and replace them by mousseline forcemeat; smooth this forcemeat, giving it the shape of the pullet in so doing, and set to poach in the front of the oven.

Now, coat the piece with Mornay sauce, and glaze quickly. Dish, and surround with tartlet-crusts garnished with asparagus-heads, cohered with butter; place a collop of the reserved suprêmes (which should have been kept hot) on each tartlet, and border the dish with a thread of pale glaze.

1447—POULARDE AMBASSADRICE

Stud the pullet with truffles, cover it with a Matignon (No. 227), wrap it in muslin, and braise it.

Remove the suprêmes; suppress the bones of the breast; fill the carcass with a garnish of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, and arrange this garnish as already described under No. 1444.

Slice the suprêmes, and put them back on the garnish, in suchwise as to reconstruct the breast of the fowl. Coat the piece with somewhat stiff and fine suprême sauce; dish it, and surround it with lamb sweet-breads, studded with truffles, braised and glazed, and alternate the sweetbreads with little faggots of asparagus-heads.

1448—POULARDE ANDALOUSE

Poële the pullet. Dish it, and coat it with its poëling-liquor, combined with tomatéd half-glaze sauce. On either side of it set some capsicums, stuffed with rice, and some roundels of egg-plant, seasoned, dredged and tossed in butter; alternating the two products.

1449—POULARDE A L’ANGLAISE

Poach the pullet, and coat it with a Béchamel sauce flavoured with chicken-essence.

Dish it and surround it with slices of salted tongue, laid tile-fashion on either side; and heaps of carrots and turnips (cut to the shape of balls) and peas and celery, at either end. All these vegetables should be cooked à l’anglaise; i.e., either in boiling water or in steam.

1450—POULARDE A L’AURORE

Poach the pullet without colouration; dish it, and coat it with an “Aurore Sauce” (No. 60). Surround it with medium-sized, decorated quenelles; and trimmed oval slices of salted tongue, arranged according to fancy.

1451—POULARDE A LA BEAUFORT

Stuff the pullet with a fine foie-gras, stiffened in the oven for twenty minutes with a little Madeira, and cooled.

Fill up the pullet with a little, fine sausage-meat; stud it with truffles, and braise it in short moistening.

Dish it on a low cushion, and surround it with braised, lambs’ tongues, alternated with artichoke-bottoms, garnished with a rosette of Soubise purée. As an adjunct, use the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease.

1452—POULARDE BOUILLIE A L’ANGLAISE

Cook the pullet in light, white stock with one lb. of breast of bacon and a garnish of vegetables as for pot-au-feu. Dish, and surround with the bacon, cut into slices.

Serve, separately, an English parsley sauce, and a sauceboat of the pullet’s cooking-liquor.

1453—POULARDE AUX CÉLERIS

Poële the pullet, and baste it towards the close of the operation with strong veal stock.

Prepare a garnish of braised celery.

Dish the pullet; surround it with the braised celery, and cover the latter with the poëling-liquor.

1454—POULARDE AUX CHAMPIGNONS A BRUN

Poële the pullet, and swill the saucepan with mushroom essence. Add this swilling-liquor (reduced) to one-quarter pint of half-glaze with Madeira.

Dish the pullet, and surround it with twenty grooved and cooked mushroom-heads. Serve separately the reduced half-glaze, to which add two oz. of fresh butter.

1455—POULARDE AUX CHAMPIGNONS A BLANC

Poach the pullet.

Dish it, and coat it with an Allemande sauce flavoured with mushroom essence.

Surround it with twenty grooved, cooked and very white mushroom-heads.

1456—POULARDE CHANOINESSE

Prepare a “Poularde Soufflée” after recipe No. 1518. Dish it, and surround it with small heaps of crayfishes’ tails, alternated with small croûtons of fried bread, on each of which place a collop of the suprêmes. Finish off with a slice of truffle on each collop of the suprêmes.

Serve a Mornay sauce, finished with crayfish butter, separately.

1457—POULARDE CHÂTELAINE

Poële the pullet without letting it acquire too much colour.

Dish it, and surround it with small artichoke-bottoms, stewed in butter and garnished with Soubise.

Alternate the artichoke-bottoms with small heaps of chestnuts cooked in consommé and glazed.

Pour a little thickened poëling-liquor on the bottom of the dish, and serve what remains of it, separately, in a sauceboat.

1458—POULARDE CHEVALIÈRE

Remove the suprêmes, and the minion fillets. Lard the former with two rows of truffles and two rows of tongue; trim the minion fillets; make five or six slits in each; insert a thin slice of truffle half-way into each slit, and draw the respective ends of the two fillets together in suchwise as to form two rings. Put the suprêmes and the minion fillets each into a buttered sautépan, and cover the latter.

Remove the pullet’s legs, keeping the skin as long as possible; bone them to within one and one-third inches of the joints, and cut off the claws, aslant, just below the same joints. Garnish the boned regions with godiveau prepared with cream close the opening by means of a few stitches of strong cotton, and truss each leg in such a manner as to imitate a small duck.

Poach these stuffed legs in stock made from the pullet’s carcass.

Also poach the suprêmes and the minion fillets in good time, with a little mushroom cooking-liquor, and a few drops of lemon juice.

With a pinch of flour mixed with water, stick a fried croûton (the shape of a pyramid, three inches high and of two inch base) in the middle of a dish.

Around this pyramid, arrange the two stuffed legs and the two suprêmes; putting each of them on a decorated quenelle with the view of slightly raising them. Set the minion fillets on the legs, and, between the latter and the suprêmes, lay small heaps of cocks’ combs and kidneys, and some very white mushroom-heads. Pierce the croûton with a hatelet garnished with one truffle, one fine cock’s comb, and a large mushroom.

Serve a suprême sauce separately.

N.B.—This dish is generally bordered, either with noodle-paste, white English paste, or with a chased silver border.

1459—POULARDE CHIMAY

Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of half-poached noodles, tossed in butter, and combined with a little cream and three oz. of foie-gras cut into large dice.

Poële it gently; dish it, and coat it with some of its poëling-liquor, thickened.

Distribute over the pullet a copious amount of raw noodles, sautéd in clarified butter; and serve the remainder of the thickened poëling-liquor separately.

1460—POULARDE CHIPOLATA

Poële the pullet and put it into a terrine à pâté with a garnish consisting of small, glazed onions; chipolata sausages, poached in butter; chestnuts cooked in consommé; fried pieces of bacon; and, if desired, some small glazed carrots.

Add the pullet’s cooking-liquor, and simmer for ten minutes before serving.

1461—POULARDE A LA CHIVRY

Poach the pullet. Dish it and coat it with Chivry sauce (No. 78).

Serve a Macédoine of new vegetables; cohered with butter or cream, separately.

1462—POULARDE CUSSY

Braise the pullet. Dish it and surround it with whole truffles, cooked in Mirepoix with Madeira, and alternated with fine, grilled mushrooms, garnished with artichoke purée.

In front of the pullet set a small, silver shell, in which shape a pyramid of large cocks’ combs, heated in butter.

1463—POULARDE EN DEMI-DEUIL

Between the skin and the fillets of the fowl insert a few fine slices of raw truffle. Lard the pullet and poach it.

When it is ready, strain the cooking-liquor through a napkin; reduce it, and add it to a very white suprême sauce, containing slices of truffle.

Dish the pullet; cook it with some of the sauce, and send what remains, separately, in a sauceboat.

1464—POULARDE DEMIDOFF

Poële the pullet. When it is three-parts done, put it into a cocotte and surround it with the following garnish, prepared in advance and stewed in butter; viz:—one-half lb. of carrots and five oz. of turnips, cut into grooved crescents, one inch in diameter; five oz. of small onions cut into thin roundels, and five oz. of celery.

Complete the cooking of the pullet with this garnish, and add to it, when about to serve, three oz. of truffles, cut to the shape of crescents, and one-sixth pint of chicken stock.

Serve the preparation in the cocotte, after having cleared the liquor of all grease.

1465—POULARDE DERBY

Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. 2256; and poële it. Dish, and surround it with collops of foie-gras, tossed in butter (each set on a small, fried croûton), and alternate these with large, whole truffles, cooked in champagne.

As an adjunct, serve the pullet’s cooking-liquor, cleared of all grease, combined with the cooking-liquor of the truffles and one-sixth pint of veal gravy. Reduce the whole to one-sixth pint and thicken with arrow-root.

1466—POULARDE DIVA

Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. 2256, and poach it without colouration.

Dish it, and coat it with suprême sauce, flavoured with paprika.

Send a garnish consisting of cèpes with cream, separately.

N.B.—This dish was served for the first time to Mme. Adelina Patti, the great singer.

1467—POULARDE DEVONSHIRE

Bone the breast of a fine pullet; season it inside, and fill it with a chicken forcemeat, prepared with cream and mixed with half its weight of very fine sausage-meat.

In the middle of the pullet set a nice salted and cooked calf’s tongue, trimmed and cleared of all cartilage; and place it so that its thin end lies in the region of the bird’s tail.

Sew up the pullet’s belly with thin string, allowing the skin sufficient play not to tear under the pressure of the forcemeat, which swells while cooking. Truss, cover the pullet with a slice of larding bacon, poach, and drain it.

When about to serve, make an incision around the breast with the point of a knife; detach the stuffing with the blade of a knife, passed horizontally on a level with the spine, and cut off, at a stroke, the piece consisting of the pullet’s breast, the stuffing, and the calf’s tongue.

Dish the carcass with the legs and wings still attached, on a low cushion. Cut the breast, lengthwise, into two; and, if the fowl has been properly stuffed, the tongue should then be found neatly bisected. Slice each half, and return them to the carcass in suchwise as to reconstruct the bird and give it an untouched appearance.

Coat lightly with Allemande sauce, combined with very red tongue, cut into dice; and surround with a border of timbales made from a purée of fresh peas (No. 2196), each set on an artichoke bottom. Serve a sauceboat of the same sauce as that with which the pullet was coated.

1468—POULARDE A L’ÉCOSSAISE

Stuff the pullet with pearl barley cooked in white consommé, well drained, and combined, per lb., with an equal quantity of fine sausage-meat (to which has been added a chopped onion, cooked in butter), and two tablespoonfuls of cream.

Poach the pullet in the usual way; dish it and coat it with Écossaise sauce, i.e.brunoise of vegetables: carrots, onions, leeks, and celery, and a large part of the reduced pullet’s poaching-liquor.

Serve a garnish of French beans with cream, separately.

1469—POULARDE ÉDOUARD VII

Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. 2256, and poach it without colouration. Dish it, and coat it with a curry sauce, combined with two oz. of red capsicums in dice, per pint of sauce.

Serve a garnish of cucumbers with cream, separately.

N.B.—This dish was originated at the Carlton Hotel on the occasion of His Majesty King Edward VII.’s Coronation.

1470—POULARDE EN ESTOUFFADE

Half-poële the pullet in a saucepan.

Line the bottom and sides of an oval cocotte with thin slices of ham. Put the half-poëled pullet into this cocotte, together with one lb. of carrots, onions, and celery, all three sliced, fried in butter and moderately seasoned with salt and pepper.

Swill the saucepan with one-third pint of strong veal stock; reduce to half; put this reduced stock into the cocotte; cover the latter; seal down the lid with a thread of paste, and complete the cooking of the pullet in a somewhat hot oven for three-quarters of an hour.

1471—POULARDE A L’ESTRAGON

Poach the pullet, and add to the ordinary garnish a bunch consisting of five or six sprigs of tarragon.

Dish, and decorate the pullet’s breast with a nice spray of blanched tarragon leaves.

Reduce and strain the pullet’s cooking-liquor, and serve it separately.

1472—POULARDE A LA FAVORITE

Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of rice, prepared after recipe No. 2256.

Poach it; dish it, and coat with a suprême sauce.

Surround with a garnish of cocks’ combs and kidneys, and slices of truffle.

1473—POULARDE A LA FERMIÈRE

Prepare the pullet as for No. 1470; but, instead of lining the cocotte with slices of ham, cut the latter into dice and add these to the garnish, together with four oz. of peas and four oz. of French beans, cut into small lozenges.

1474—POULARDE A LA FINANCIÈRE

Braise the pullet.

Dish it, and surround it with a garnish consisting of small heaps of quenelles made from chicken, mousseline forcemeat; grooved, button-mushroom heads; cocks’ combs and kidneys; slices of truffle, and blanched olives. Add a small quantity of half-glaze sauce prepared with truffle essence.

Send a sauceboat of the same sauce separately.

1475—POULARDE A LA GASTRONOME

Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of noodles, slightly tossed in butter, and poële it.

Swill the saucepan with one-quarter pint of champagne. Dish the pullet and surround it with medium-sized truffles, cooked in champagne, alternated with small heaps of cooked and glazed chestnuts, and place a cock’s kidney between each heap.

Serve, separately, a half-glaze sauce, flavoured with truffle essence and combined with the reduced swilling-liquor.

1476—POULARDE A LA GODARD

Braise the pullet brown.

Dish it and surround it with spoon-moulded quenelles of forcemeat, combined with chopped mushrooms and truffles; large oval quenelles, decorated with tongue and truffle; grooved button-mushroom heads; cocks’ combs and kidneys; glazed small lambs’ sweetbreads; and olive-shaped truffles.

Slightly coat this garnish with Godard sauce, combined with some reduced braising-liquor, and send what remains of the latter in a sauceboat.

1477—POULARDE A LA GRAMMONT

Poach the pullet, and let it half-cool.

Now remove the suprêmes and the bones of the breast; fill up the cavity in the carcass with a garnish consisting of larks’ fillets, sautéd just before dishing; grooved button-mushroom heads; cocks’ combs and kidneys; and cohere the whole by means of Béchamel sauce, finished with truffle essence.

Slice the suprêmes, and return them to their place, setting a slice of truffle between each. Coat the pullet with a stiff Allemande sauce; sprinkle with grated Parmesan and melted butter; glaze quickly, and serve at once.

1478—POULARDE GRAND HÔTEL

Cut up the fowl as for a sauté dish, and cook it in butter, under cover. Then set the pieces in a very hot cocotte, and distribute thereupon five oz. of raw truffles cut into thick slices and slightly salted and peppered.

Swill the sautépan with a few tablespoonfuls of white wine; add a little chicken stock; pour this liquor into the cocotte; thoroughly close the latter, and put it in a very hot oven for eight or ten minutes with the view of cooking the truffles.

Serve the preparation as it stands in the cocotte.

N.B.—This dish was invented at the Grand Hotel at Monte Carlo, as a means of offering to those who could not wait for the preparation of truffled pullets a substitute of a somewhat similar nature to the latter.

1479—POULARDE AU GROS SEL

Poach the pullet, and add to it ten small olive-shaped carrots and ten small onions.

Dish, and surround the bird with the carrots and the onions, arranged in small heaps.

Serve, separately, a sauceboat containing the pullet’s cooking-liquor, and a cellar

1480—POULARDE A LA GRECQUE

Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. 2253, and poële it.

Dish it, and coat it with very strong reduced chicken stock, thickened by means of arrowroot.

1481—POULARDE A LA HONGROISE

Poële the pullet.

Dish it; coat it with Hongroise sauce, and surround it with timbales of pilaff rice, combined with tomato pulp, cut into dice.

Send a Hongroise sauce separately.

1482—POULARDE AUX HUÎTRES

Boil the pullet gently in light, white stock, until it is well cooked. With the cooking-liquor prepare a suprême sauce, and add thereto the almost entirely reduced poaching-liquor of twenty-four oysters, one-half pint of cream, and the twenty-four oysters (cleared of their beards).

Dish the pullet, and pour this sauce over it.

1483—POULARDE A L’INDIENNE

Poach the pullet.

Dish it; coat with Indienne sauce, and serve a timbale of rice à l’Indienne, prepared after recipe No. 2254, separately.

1484—POULARDE ISABELLE DE FRANCE

Stuff the pullet with rizotto, combined with two oz. of truffle slices and eighteen crayfishes’ tails, and poach it in white stock containing one bottle of Chablis wine.

With the pullet’s cooking-liquor prepare a highly-seasoned suprême sauce. Dish the bird on a small cushion; coat it with sauce, and surround it with fine black truffles, cooked in champagne, and set each on a small, round, and slightly hollowed croûton of fried bread.

Serve the remainder of the sauce separately.

1485—POULARDE A L’IVOIRE

Poach the pullet, keeping it very white. Dish it, and serve it plain.

Send, separately, an ivory sauce, a sauceboat of the pullet’s cooking-liquor, and some kind of garnish, such as macaroni or noodles with cream cèpes, cucumber, &c.

1486—POULARDE LADY CURZON

Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. 2256, and poach it.

Dish it, and coat it with an Indienne sauce.

A garnish of cèpes or cucumber with cream may be served at the same time.

1487—POULARDE LOUISE D’ORLÉANS

Insert a whole foie gras into the pullet, the former having been studded with truffles, poached for fifteen minutes in some succulent veal stock, and one glassful of old Madeira, and afterwards

Stiffen and colour the pullet for twenty minutes in the oven, sprinkling it with butter the while.

Cover it entirely with thick slices of truffles; cover these with slices of bacon, and envelop the whole in a layer of plain dough, which should be well sealed up. Set the pullet, prepared in this way, on a baking-tray; make a slit in the top of the paste for the escape of steam during the cooking process, and cook in a moderate oven for one and three-quarter hours.

This pullet is served as it stands, cold or hot.

1488—POULARDE A LA LOUISIANE

Stuff the pullet with one lb. of maize with cream, combined with one and one-half oz. of capsicums cut into dice, and poële it. Dish it and border it, on either side, with timbales of rice and fried bananas, arranged alternately. At either end of the dish set a croustade of lining paste, garnished with maize “à la crème.”

1489—POULARDE A LA LUCULLUS

Braise the pullet.

Dish it, and surround it with (1) fine truffles, cooked in champagne, alternated with (2) large, round quenelles of mousseline forcemeat. At either end of the dish, which should be oval, set a small silver shell of the same height as the cushion on which the pullet lies.

Garnish these shells with very white, curled cocks’ combs and cocks’ kidneys. Add the reduced braising-liquor to a half-glaze sauce, flavoured with truffle essence; cover the bottom of the dish with some of this sauce, and send what remains, separately, in a sauceboat.

1490—POULARDE A LA MANCINI

Poach the pullet.

Remove the suprêmes; suppress the bones of the breast without touching either the pinions or the legs, and set the carcass, thus prepared, on a very low cushion of bread or rice, so that it may be steady.

Fill the carcass with macaroni, cohered with cheese and cream, and combined with three oz. of foie gras in dice, and one-half oz. of a julienne of truffles.

Slice the suprêmes, and reconstruct them on the macaroni, placing a fine slice of truffle between each. Coat the pullet with a stiff and unctuous cream sauce; sprinkle with grated cheese, and glaze quickly at the salamander.

Serve separately a creamy suprême sauce.

1491—POULARDE MARGUERITE DE SAVOIE

Fry quickly ten larks in butter, insert these into a fine pullet, and braise the latter in veal stock and white Savoy wine, in equal quantities. Prepare a milk polenta (No. 2294); spread it on a tray in layers one inch thick, and let it cool. Now stamp it with a round cutter one and one-half inches in diameter, and, a few minutes before serving, dredge these roundels of polenta, and brown them in clarified butter.

Just before dishing up, sprinkle them with grated Parmesan, and glaze them quickly at the salamander.

Dish the pullet on a very low cushion of fried bread; surround it with the glazed roundels of polenta; pour a little of the fowl’s cooking-liquor, thickened, over the dish, and send what remains of it in a sauceboat.

Serve at the same time a vegetable-dish of white Piedmont truffles, slightly heated in a little butter and some consommé.

1492—POULARDE A LA MÉNAGÈRE

Poach the pullet in some rather gelatinous white stock. Slice six carrots, six new potatoes, six new onions; put the whole into a saucepan, and cook gently in the fowl’s poaching-liquor, with the lid of the saucepan off. When the vegetables are cooked, and the liquor is sufficiently reduced, set the pullet in a special oval cocotte, and cover it with the prepared vegetables and their cooking-liquor.

1493—POULARDE MIREILLE

Poële the pullet.

Dish it; surround it with small timbales of rice with saffron, alternated with tartlet crusts, garnished with concassed tomatoes cooked in butter, and set a fine, stoned olive on each tartlet.

Serve a tomato sauce separately.

1494—POULARDE A LA MONTBAZON

Stud the pullet with truffles, and poach it.

Dish it; coat it with suprême sauce, and surround it with poached lamb sweetbreads, spoon-moulded quenelles of mousseline, chicken forcemeat, and grooved mushroom heads, arranged alternately.

Serve a suprême sauce separately.

1495—POULARDE A LA MONTE CARLO

Poach the pullet.

Dish it; coat it with suprême sauce, and surround it on the one side with quenelles of pink, mousseline, chicken forcemeat, and on the other with a border of fair-sized, very black truffles.

1496—POULARDE A LA MONTMORENCY

Lard the pullet with truffles, and braise it in Madeira.

Set it on an oval dish, and, at either end of the latter, place a fine, decorated quenelle; on either side of the fowl arrange some artichoke-bottoms, garnished with asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.

Serve separately a half-glaze sauce with Madeira, to which the braising-liquor of the pullet has been added.

1497—POULARDE A LA NANTUA

Poach the pullet.

Dish it; coat it with a suprême sauce, finished with crayfish butter, and surround it with small heaps of quenelles with crayfish butter, crayfishes’ tails, and slices of truffle.

1498

Stuff the pullet with one lb. of pilaff rice with saffron, and poach it.

Remove its suprêmes; suppress the breast-bones by means of scissors, without touching the rice, and coat the latter with Béchamel sauce coloured with tomato sauce and flavoured with saffron.

Dish; reconstruct the sliced suprêmes on the rice, and set between each slice another of chow-chow stewed in butter. Cover the pullet with the same sauce as that indicated above, and surround it with quarters of chow-chow cooked in butter, or serve this garnish separately.

1499—POULARDE AUX ŒUFS D’OR

Poële the pullet without letting it acquire overmuch colour.

Strain the poëling-liquor; clear it of all grease; add thereto a little tomato purée, and thicken it with arrowroot. Finish with three oz. of butter, the juice of half a lemon, and a little cayenne.

Dish the pullet; surround it with a border of egg-shaped croquettes of egg with truffles, and send the sauce separately.

1500—POULARDE A LA PARISIENNE

Poach the pullet.

Dish it; cover it with Allemande sauce, and decorate it on top with slices of truffles and salted tongue cut to the shape of cocks’ combs.

Surround with spoon-moulded quenelles of chicken forcemeat, half of which should have been combined with chopped truffles, and the other half with chopped, salted ox-tongue.

Arrange the quenelles round the fowl, alternately, and border the dish with a thread of pale glaze.

1501—POULARDE ADELINA PATTI

Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. 2256, and poach it in white, chicken stock. Dish it on a low cushion; cover it with a suprême sauce, flavoured with paprika, and surround it with fair-sized artichoke-bottoms, each garnished with a fine truffle, coated with pale meat glaze.

Serve separately a sauceboat of the same sauce as that already used in coating the pullet.

1502—POULARDE A LA PAYSANNE

Brown the pullet in butter, and put it into an oval cocotte.

Around it set a garnish consisting of four oz. of the red part of a carrot, three oz. of onion, and two oz. of celery, all three minced somewhat finely. Complete the cooking of the pullet with the vegetables, sprinkling it often the while with good veal stock.

Serve the preparation as it stands in the cocotte.

1503—POULARDE A LA PÉRIGORD

Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of truffles in the shape of large olives, cooked in two oz. of melted pork fat, and mixed, while hot, with one lb. of fresh, grated pork fat, rubbed through a sieve. String the piece, taking care to close all its openings, and poële it gently.

Dish it; coat it with a very fine half-glaze sauce, made from the poëling-liquor and finished with truffle essence.

1504—POULARDE PETITE MARIÉE

Poach the pullet in a little white stock, and surround it (when setting it to cook) with six small new onions, six small carrots, six small new potatoes, and one-quarter pint of freshly-shelled peas.

Set the pullet in a cocotte with the garnish of vegetables, and coat it with its reduced cooking-liquor, combined with some excellent suprême sauce.

1505—POULARDE A LA PIÉMONTAISE

Stuff the pullet with two-thirds lb. of rizotto combined with one-half lb. of white sliced truffles, and poële it in the usual way.

Dish it, and serve at the same time a thickened chicken gravy to which has been added the reduced poëling-liquor.

1506—POULARDE A LA PORTUGAISE

Stuff the pullet with three-quarters lb. of rice, combined with five oz. of peeled and concassed tomatoes, cooked in butter.

Poële the pullet. Dish it; coat it with a Portugaise sauce, combined with the poëling-liquor, and surround it with a garnish of medium-sized tomatoes, stuffed with rice “à la Portugaise.”

1507—POULARDE PRINCESSE

Poach the pullet.

Dish it, and coat it with an Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom essence and finished with two oz. of asparagus-head butter per pint of sauce. Surround it with croustades of Duchesse potatoes, rolled in breadcrumbs and melted butter, fried, emptied, then garnished with asparagus-heads cohered with butter, and each surmounted by a fine slice of truffle. Between each croustade set a faggot of very green asparagus-heads.

1508—POULARDE PRINCESSE HÉLÈNE

Stuff the pullet with rice prepared after recipe (No. 2256), and poach it. Dish it; coat it with suprême sauce, and surround it with spinach subrics, cooked at the last moment; add to this garnish some shavings of white truffles, barely heated in butter, and set in a shell placed behind the fowl.

1509—POULARDE RÉGENCE

Stuff the pullet with one lb. of mousseline forcemeat of chicken, combined with three oz. of crayfish purée, and poach it.

Dish it; coat it with Allemande sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, and surround it with the following garnish, arranged in small heaps:—Spoon-moulded quenelles of mousseline, chicken forcemeat; white, curled, cocks’ combs; slices of raw foie gras, stamped out with a round cutter, and tossed in butter; small, grooved, cooked, and very white mushrooms; olive-shaped truffles, and one round quenelle decorated with truffles at either end of the dish.

1510—POULARDE DE LA REINE ANNE

Poële the pullet.

When it is ready, remove the suprêmes and the breast bones, and fill the carcass with a garnish of macaroni and cream, combined with foie gras and truffle dice. Cover the macaroni with Mornay sauce; glaze quickly, and dish the pullet on a low cushion.

Surround it with small tartlet crusts garnished with cocks’ combs and kidneys, cohered with Allemande sauce, and set a slice of the suprêmes on each tartlet. Put a silver shell containing a pyramid of truffles behind the fowl.

Serve an Allemande sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, separately.

1511—POULARDE REINE MARGOT

Stuff the pullet with two-thirds lb. of mousseline forcemeat of chicken, combined with two oz. of almond purée, and poach it.

Dish it; coat it with suprême sauce, finished with a little almond milk, and surround it with quenelles prepared with pistachio butter and quenelles prepared with crayfish butter, arranged alternately.

1512—POULARDE REINE MARGUERITE

Poach the pullet.

Remove the suprêmes and the breast bone, without touching either the wings or the legs, and set the carcass, thus trimmed, on a low cushion of bread or rice. Finely slice the suprêmes; add as many slices of truffle as there are collops of suprêmes, and combine the whole with a soufflé preparation with Parmesan, which should not be too light.

Reconstruct the pullet with this preparation; smooth the surface, and surround the base of the pullet with a band of paper, so that it may keep its form. Set some thin slices of Gruyère cheese upon it; dish it, and cook it in a moderately hot oven.

1513—POULARDE AU RIZ

Poach the pullet.

Dish it, and coat it with an Allemande sauce, flavoured with chicken essence. Surround it with a garnish of rice, cooked in the pullet’s poaching-liquor, and moulded in small, buttered, timbale moulds.

1514—POULARDE ROSSINI

Poële the pullet.

Remove the suprêmes; slice them, and dish them in the form of a crown upon a round dish, alternating them with collops of foie gras, tossed in butter. Pour a very strong chicken stock finished with truffle essence in their midst.

Serve, separately, a timbale of noodles with butter covered with raw noodles tossed in butter.

1515—POULARDE SAINTE ALLIANCE

Heat in butter ten fine truffles seasoned with salt and pepper; sprinkle them with a glassful of excellent Madeira, and leave them to cool thus in a thoroughly sealed utensil. Now put these truffles into a fine pullet, and poële it just in time for it to be sent to the table.

When the pullet is ready, quickly cook as many ortolans, and toss in butter as many collops of foie gras as there are diners, and send them to the table at the same time as the pullet, together with the latter’s poëling-liquor, strained and in a sauceboat.

The waiter in charge should be ready for it with three assistants at hand, and he should have a very hot chafer on the sideboard. The moment it arrives he quickly removes the suprêmes, cuts them into slices, and sets each one of these upon a collop of foie gras, which assistant No. 1 has placed ready on a plate, together with one of the truffles inserted into the pullet at the start.

Assistant No. 2, to whom the plate is handed forthwith, adds an ortolan and a little juice, and then assistant No. 3 straightway places the plate before the diner.

The pullet is thus served very quickly, and in such wise as to render it a dish of very exceptional gastronomical quality.

N.B.—The name “Sainte Alliance” which I give to this dish (a name that Brillat-Savarin employs in his “Physiology of Taste” in order to identify a certain famous toast) struck me as an admirable title for a preparation in which four such veritable gems of cookery are found united—the suprêmes of a fine pullet, foie gras, truffles, and ortolans.

This dish was originally served at the Carlton Hotel in 1905.

1516—POULARDE SANTA-LUCIA

Stuff the pullet with truffles, prepared as for No. 1515, and braise it in Marsala. Dish it on a low cushion, and surround it with small tartlets of Gnochi “à la Romaine,” alternated with collops of foie gras, tossed in butter.

1517—POULARDE SICILIENNE

Poach the pullet.

Raise the fillets, leaving the wing-bones on the carcass; suppress the breast bones, and fill the resulting cavity with macaroni, cohered with the strong liquor of braised beef “à la Napolitaine,” and combined with dice of truffles and foie gras, cocks’ combs and kidneys.

Envelop the piece in pig’s caul, giving the former its natural shape; sprinkle with raspings and melted butter, and set in the oven that the pig’s caul may cook and colour.

Dish on a low cushion, and coat with chicken glaze with butter.

Surround with tartlet crusts, each garnished with a slice of the suprêmes, covered with a slice of foie gras tossed in butter, and surmounted by a slice of truffle.

Send a chicken glaze with butter separately.

1518—POULARDE SOUFFLÉE

Poach the pullet.

Raise the suprêmes, and cut them into thin slices; suppress the breast-bones by means of scissors, and stuff the bird with one lb. two oz. of mousseline forcemeat of chicken, combined with one-third lb. of foie-gras purée. Spread this preparation in layers, and between each of the latter set alternate slices of suprême and truffle.

Reconstruct the bird exactly; smooth its surface; deck it with bits of truffle, salted tongue, and boiled white of egg; place the dish on a deep tray containing a little boiling water, the steam of which assists the poaching of the preparation, and poach in a moderate oven.

When about to serve, coat the pullet with Allemande sauce flavoured with truffle essence.

N.B.—The use of a bain-marie consisting of a deep pan containing boiling water, wherein the dish which holds the pullet is placed, is highly recommended, but the ideal method of poaching this sort of preparations is by means of a steamer.

1519—POULARDE STANLEY

Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of rice, three oz. of mushrooms, and three oz. of a julienne of truffles. Poach it with one lb. two oz. of sliced and blanched onions, seasoned with a pinch of curry. When the pullet is ready, rub the cooking-liquor and the onions through tammy. Add one-third pint of Velouté and one-third pint of cream to this cullis; reduce to a stiff consistence; rub once more through tammy, and finish with one-sixth pint of cream.

1520—POULARDE SOUVAROFF

Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of foie gras and five oz. of truffles cut into large dice, and three-parts poële it.

Now put it into a cocotte with ten fair-sized truffles stewed in Madeira for a few minutes in the same saucepan as that in which the pullet was poëled. Moisten with one-sixth pint of veal stock; close the cocotte; seal the cover with a thread of paste, and complete the cooking in a moderate oven for thirty minutes.

Serve the fowl as it stands in the cocotte.

1521—POULARDE SYLVANA

Stuff the pullet with one lb. of mushrooms, tossed in brown butter, and half-brown it in the oven.

Meanwhile put one pint of fresh peas into a saucepan, together with ten small new onions, one small lettuce cut julienne-fashion, and a faggot consisting of parsley stalks, chervil, and a sprig of mint. Add salt, sugar, two oz. of butter, and mix the whole up together.

Moisten with two small tablespoonfuls of water; cover and half-cook, taking care to toss from time to time during the operation. When the pullet is half-cooked, put it into a cocotte lined with a thin layer of paste, overreaching the edges of the cocotte by about two inches.

Surround it with a garnish of peas; cover it with a slice of bacon, and close the cocotte with its cover. Draw the overlapping paste over the latter; seal it down with some white of egg, that it may be hermetically closed, and set in the oven for about forty-five minutes.

Serve the preparation as it stands in the cocotte. A sauceboat of good chicken gravy may be served separately.

1522—POULARDE TALLEYRAND

Poële the pullet; raise the suprêmes, and cut these into large dice. Mix them with an equal quantity of macaroni, cut short, and thickened with cream sauce combined with Parmesan, and add enough foie gras and truffles, cut into large dice, to equal half the weight of the suprêmes.

Suppress the breast-bones; fill the fowl with the above preparation, and cover the latter with a layer of mousseline forcemeat, reconstructing the bird naturally in so doing. Deck the surface with a crown of truffle slices; cover with buttered paper, and set in the oven (1) to poach the forcemeat, (2) to thoroughly heat the preparation beneath.

Dish the pullet; pour a little half-glaze sauce, flavoured with truffle essence and combined with slices of truffle, over the dish, and serve what remains of the sauce separately.

1523—POULARDE TOSCA

Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after No. 2256, and poële it in short moistening. Dish it on a low cushion of fried bread, and surround it with a garnish of braised, tuberous fennel-roots.

Send the pullet’s poëling liquor separately, after having reduced and finished it with butter.

1524—POULARDE TOULOUSAINE

Poach the pullet.

Dish it; coat it with Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom essence, and surround it with the following garnish, arranged in heaps:—Quenelles of mousseline chicken forcemeat; slices of poached, veal sweetbreads; cocks’ combs and kidneys; cooked and very white button-mushroom heads, and slices of truffle.

Serve an Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom essence, separately.

1525—POULARDE TRIANON

Poach the pullet.

Dish it, and surround it with quenelles of chicken forcemeat, stuffed with foie-gras purée. Arrange these quenelles in heaps, and set a nice, whole truffle between each heap.

Pierce the pullet with a hatelet, garnished with one grooved mushroom, one fair-sized glazed truffle, and a quenelle decorated with salted tongue.

Serve a suprême sauce at the same time.

1526—POULARDE VALENCIENNE

Poële the pullet.

Dish it, and surround it with a garnish of rizotto, combined with ham dice. Set a crown of grilled slices of ham upon the rizotto.

Serve a well-seasoned tomatéd suprême sauce separately.

1527—POULARDE AU VERT-PRÉ

Poach the pullet.

Dish it; coat it with a suprême sauce, finished with printanier butter (No. 157), in the proportion of two oz. per pint of sauce; and surround it with a garnish consisting of peas, French beans, and asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.

1528—POULARDE VICHY

Stuff the pullet with ordinary pilaff rice, and braise it white. Dish it, coat it with a suprême sauce, combined with the reduced braising-liquor, and surround with small tartlet crusts, garnished with carrots à la Vichy.

1529—POULARDE VICTORIA

Stuff the pullet with truffles and foie gras, and three-parts poële it, exactly as directed under “Poularde Souvaroff.”

Put it into a cocotte with one lb. of potatoes, cut into large dice and tossed in butter, and complete its cooking and that of the potatoes in the oven.

1530—POULARDE WASHINGTON

Stuff the pullet with ten oz. of green maize, three-parts cooked, and combined with one chopped onion cooked in butter and three oz. of good sausage-meat, fried in butter for one moment with the onion. Braise the pullet, and glaze it at the last minute.

Serve separately and at the same time a timbale of maize with cream.

1531—CHAPON FIN AUX PERLES DU PÉRIGORD

Stuff the capon with fine truffles, and envelop it in very thin slices of cushion of veal. Braise it with best liqueur-brandy.

Dish and serve separately (1) the braising liquor in a sauceboat; (2) a timbale of cardoons with gravy.

1532—POULETS SAUTÉS

As I pointed out at the beginning of Part V. of this chapter, the chickens best suited to the sauté treatment are those termed “à la Reine”; they should be of medium size, very fleshy, and tender.

In an extreme case, small pullets or large chickens might be used, but neither of these are so eminently suited to the procedure in question as chickens “à la Reine.”

The fowl which is to be sautéd should be cut up thus: after having emptied, singed, and thoroughly cleaned it; cut off its legs—quite a simple matter, since all that is necessary is the disjunction of the thigh-bones, after having cut the skin. Cut off the claws just below the joint of the tibia, and pare the spurs. Now cut the tibia above the joint, and remove the thigh-bone.

Cut the pinions at the first joint; remove the wings, after having cut round a portion of the breast in such wise that each wing holds one half of it; finally detach the centrepiece or breast-bone, which should be left whole if the fowl be small and cut into two if it be otherwise.

The carcass thus remains. Cut it into two, and trim each piece on both sides.

Before setting them to cook, moderately season the pieces of fowl with salt and pepper. Whatever the demands of a particular recipe may be, the preparatory principle of sautéd chickens is always as follows:—

Take a sautépan just large enough to hold the pieces of fowl, and heat therein two oz. of clarified butter; or, according to circumstances, half butter and half good oil. When the selected fat is quite hot, insert the pieces of fowl; let them colour quickly, and turn them over from time to time, that they may do so evenly. Now cover the utensil, and put it in a sufficiently hot oven to ensure the complete cooking of the fowl. Some tender pieces, such as the wings and the breast, should be withdrawn after a few minutes have elapsed, and kept warm; but the legs, the meat of which is firmer and thicker, should cook seven or eight minutes more at least.

When all the pieces are cooked, withdraw them; drain away their butter, and swill the sautépan with the prescribed liquor, which is either some kind of wine, mushroom cooking-liquor, or chicken stock, &c. This swilling forms, as I have already pointed out, an essential part of the procedure, inasmuch as its object is to dissolve those portions of solidified gravy which adhere to the bottom of the sautépan.

Reduce the swilling-liquor to half, and add thereto the sauce given in the recipe. Put the pieces of carcass, the claws, the pinions and the legs into this sauce, and simmer for a few minutes. The other pieces, i.e., the wings and breast, are then added, but when the sauce is sufficiently reduced, it must stop boiling. When the pieces are completely cooked, it is obviously unnecessary for the sauce to boil, since the former would only be hardened thereby.

A few minutes before serving, put the pieces into a deep entrée dish (fitted with a cover) in the following order:—The pieces of carcass, the claws and the pinions on the bottom of the dish, upon these the legs and the breast, and, last of all, the wings.

The sauce is then finished according to the directions of the recipe, and is poured over the pieces of fowl.

Some chickens are prepared without colouration—that is to say, the pieces are merely stiffened in butter without browning, and their cooking is completed in the oven as above. In this case the swilling-liquor is invariably white, as also the supplementary sauces, and the latter are finished with cream.

1533—POULET SAUTÉ ARCHIDUC

Fry the pieces of fowl without colouration, i.e., merely stiffen them. Add four oz. of onions, previously cooked in butter, and complete the cooking of the onions and the fowl together.

Withdraw the pieces; dish them; cover the dish, and keep it hot. Moisten the onions with a small glassful of liqueur brandy; reduce the latter; add thereto one-sixth pint of cream and one-sixth pint of velouté, and rub through tammy.

Reduce this sauce to a stiff consistence; finish it, away from the fire, with one and one-half oz. of butter, the juice of the quarter of a lemon, and a tablespoonful of Madeira, and pour it over the fowl.

Set about ten slices of truffle on the latter, and serve.

1534—POULET SAUTÉ ARLÉSIENNE

Sauté the chicken in oil, and withdraw the pieces.

Swill with one-quarter pint of white wine; add a piece of crushed garlic as large as a pea, one-sixth pint of tomatéd half-glaze sauce, and reduce by a third. Dish the chicken, and surround with alternate heaps of onion and egg-plant roundels, seasoned, dredged, and fried in oil, and concassed tomatoes cooked in butter.

1535—POULET SAUTÉ

Cook the pieces of chicken in butter without colouration; add thereto three and one-half oz. of raw slices of truffle, and dish in a shallow cocotte.

Swill with a small glassful of old liqueur brandy; add a few drops of lemon juice and one-sixth pint of cream; heat; finish this sauce, away from the fire, with two oz. of crayfish butter, and pour it over the fowl.

Serve in the cocotte.

1536—POULET SAUTÉ D’ARTOIS

Sauté the chicken in butter, and dish the pieces.

Swill with three tablespoonfuls of Madeira, and add one-seventh pint of light, pale meat glaze, four small quartered artichoke-bottoms, tossed in butter, ten carrots shaped like olives, cooked in consommé and glazed, and eight small onions cooked in butter.

Finish with one and one-half oz. of butter and a pinch of chopped chives, and pour this sauce over the pieces of fowl.

1537—POULET SAUTÉ BEAULIEU

Sauté the chicken in butter, and add to it five oz. of new potatoes (the size of hazel-nuts) and the same quantity of small quartered artichoke-bottoms, cooked in butter beforehand with the potatoes.

Keep the whole in the oven, under cover, for ten minutes.

Set the pieces of fowl, the potatoes and the artichoke-bottoms in an earthenware saucepan, and add twelve black olives.

Swill the saucepan with a few tablespoonfuls of white wine and a little lemon juice; complete with a tablespoonful of veal stock, and pour into the cocotte.

Simmer for five minutes, in the utensil, and serve the preparation as it stands.

1538—POULET SAUTÉ BORDELAISE

Sauté the chicken in butter, and dish it. Surround it with small quartered artichoke-bottoms stewed in butter; sliced potatoes cooked in butter, and roundels of fried onions, arranged in small heaps, with a small tuft of fried parsley between each heap.

Swill the saucepan with a few tablespoonfuls of chicken gravy, and sprinkle the fowl with the latter.

1539—POULET SAUTÉ BOIVIN

Fry the chicken in butter and add twelve small onions; three quartered artichokes, small and very tender; twenty-four small potatoes of the size of hazel-nuts. Cover and cook the whole together, in the oven.

Dish the chicken with the onions and potatoes over it, and surround it with the artichokes.

Swill the saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of consommé; add three tablespoonfuls of pale glaze, a few drops of lemon juice, and one and one-half oz. of butter; and pour this sauce over the chicken.

1540—POULET SAUTÉ BRETONNE

Stiffen the pieces without colouring them, and add thereto three oz. of the white of a leek and the half of an onion, both sliced and stewed in butter beforehand. Cover and set in the oven.

About five minutes before the fowl is quite cooked, add three oz. of mushrooms, minced raw and tossed in butter.

Dish the pullet, add one-sixth pint of suprême sauce and as much cream to the vegetables; reduce to half, and pour the sauce and the vegetables over the chicken.

1541—POULET SAUTÉ AUX CÈPES

Sauté the chicken in oil. When it is cooked, drain away the oil, dish it; heat three chopped shallots in the sautépan; swill with one-quarter pint of white wine; reduce, and complete with one and one-half oz. of butter.

Pour this sauce over the chicken, and surround the latter with eight oz. of cèpes, sautéd à la Bordelaise.

Sprinkle a pinch of chopped parsley over the chicken.

1542—POULET SAUTÉ CHAMPEAUX

Sauté the chicken in butter; dish it, and surround it with small onions and potatoes (the size of hazel-nuts), both cooked in butter beforehand. Swill with a little white wine; add one-sixth pint of veal gravy and one tablespoonful of meat glaze; reduce; finish with one and one-half oz. of butter; and pour this sauce over the chicken.

1543—POULET SAUTÉ CHASSEUR

Sauté the chicken in equal quantities of butter and oil, and dish it. Swill the saucepan with a few tablespoonfuls of white wine, and reduce; add one-quarter, pint of Chasseur Sauce Escoffier; heat; pour over the chicken, and sprinkle the latter with a pinch of concassed parsley.

1544—POULET SAUTÉ CYNTHIA

Sauté the chicken in butter and dish it.

Swill the saucepan with a glass of dry champagne; reduce to half; add one tablespoonful of light poultry glaze; finish with two and one-half oz. of butter, the juice of half a lemon, and one tablespoonful of dry curaçao; pour this sauce over the chicken.

Surround the latter with three oz. of grapes, cleared of all skin and pips, and ten sections of an orange, peeled in suchwise that the pulp of the fruit is raw.

1545—POULET SAUTÉ DEMIDOFF

Colour the chicken in butter; add the vegetable garnish given for “Poularde à la Demidoff” (1464), and put the two to stew in the oven. About ten minutes before the cooking is completed, add two oz. of truffles, cut to the shape of crescents like the carrots and turnips, and three tablespoonfuls of good veal stock.

Dish the pieces of chicken, and cover them with the garnish.

1546—POULET SAUTÉ A LA DORIA

Colour the pieces of chicken in oil and butter; add thereto one-half lb. of cucumber cut to the shape of garlic cloves; and complete the cooking by stewing in the oven.

Dish the chicken with the cucumber upon it. Swill the saucepan with one tablespoonful of veal gravy and a few drops of lemon juice; and sprinkle the chicken and its garnish with this swilling-liquor, to which add one and one-half oz. of brown butter.

1547—POULET SAUTÉ A LA DURAND

Dredge the seasoned pieces of chicken, and toss them in oil.

Dish them in the form of a crown; garnish their midst with a fine heap of roundels of fried onion; and, in the centre of the latter, set a cone, made from a very thin slice of ham and filled with concassed tomatoes cooked in butter.

1548—POULET SAUTÉ A L’ÉGYPTIENNE

Colour the pieces of chicken in oil. Toss in oil, together, three oz. of onion, and two oz. of mushrooms, sliced; and six oz. of raw ham, cut into dice.

Set the pieces of chicken in a cocotte, alternating them with the garnish, which should have been well-drained; cover with two tomatoes, cut into thick slices; cover the cocotte, and complete the cooking in the oven for twenty minutes.

When about to serve, sprinkle with a tablespoonful of veal stock.

1549—POULET SAUTÉ A L’ESPAGNOLE

Sauté the chicken in oil. Drain the latter away, and add one-half lb. of pilaff rice, combined with one and one-half oz. of capsicums in dice; three oz. of large green peas, cooked à l’anglaise, and two sliced and poached sausages.

Cover the sautépan, and set the whole to stew in the oven for ten minutes.

Dish the chicken; cover it with the garnish, and surround it with six small grilled tomatoes.

1550—POULET SAUTÉ A L’ESTRAGON

Toss the chicken in butter, and dish it.

Swill the sautépan with one-sixth pint of white wine; reduce to half; add one-sixth pint of gravy in which tarragon has been infused, and thicken with arrowroot.

Pour this sauce over the chicken, and decorate its wings with sprays of parboiled tarragon leaves.

1551—POULET SAUTÉ FEDORA

Sauté the chicken in butter, without colouration, with four oz. of raw, sliced truffles; and dish.

Swill with one-sixth pint of cream; add three tablespoonfuls of Béchamel sauce, and reduce to half. Finish, away from the fire, with one and one-half oz. of crayfish butter, a few drops of lemon juice, and a little cayenne; add four oz. of parboiled asparagus-heads to this sauce, and pour it over the chicken. Or, after having cohered them with butter, the asparagus-heads may be arranged in heaps round the fowl.

1552—POULET SAUTÉ AU FENOUIL

Sauté the chicken in butter, without colouration; swill with cream; add three quartered tuberose fennels, trimmed to the shape of garlic cloves and parboiled, and complete the cooking of the fennels and the chicken, together.

Set the pieces of fennel in the form of a crown on a special earthenware dish, and put the chicken in their midst, placing the pieces side by side. Coat with Mornay sauce, flavoured with chicken essence, and set to glaze.

1553—POULET SAUTÉ A LA FERMIÈRE

Slice three oz. of the red part of a carrot, the same quantity of turnip, two oz. of celery, and half an onion. Season with a little salt and sugar, and half-stew in butter.

Brown the pieces of chicken in butter; put them in the cocotte with the garnish of vegetables; add thereto two and one-half oz. of ham cut into dice, and complete the cooking of both the chicken and the vegetables, in the oven.

When about to serve, sprinkle with four or five tablespoonfuls of veal stock.

1554—POULET SAUTÉ AUX FINES HERBES

Sauté the chicken in butter, and two minutes before dishing it, sprinkle it with one-half oz. of chopped shallots. Swill the sautépan with one-sixth pint of white wine; reduce; add three tablespoonfuls of strong, veal gravy and as much half-glaze sauce; and finish the sauce, away from the fire, with one and one-half oz. of butter and a coffeespoonful of chopped parsley, chervil, and tarragon. Pour it over the chicken.

1555—POULET SAUTÉ FORESTIÈRE

Sauté the chicken in butter; sprinkle it with a tablespoonful of chopped shallots; add five oz. of quartered morels; stew in the oven for ten minutes, and dish the chicken.

Swill with white wine; add one-sixth pint of veal stock; reduce, and pour over the chicken with the morels. Surround with four small heaps of potatoes, cut into large dice and tossed in butter; put a rectangle of frizzled bacon between each heap, and sprinkle a pinch of chopped parsley over the chicken.

1556—POULET SAUTÉ GABRIELLE

Sauté the chicken in butter, without colouration, and dish it.

Swill with one-eighth pint of mushroom cooking-liquor; add three tablespoonfuls of Béchamel sauce, and three tablespoonfuls of cream; reduce, and finish the sauce, away from the fire, with one and one-half oz. of butter.

Pour this sauce over the chicken; sprinkle on it some very black truffle, cut julienne-fashion, and surround it with little leaves of puff-paste, baked white.

1557—POULET SAUTÉ GEORGINA

Sauté the pullet in butter with twelve small new onions and a small faggot, containing a sprig of fennel. Dish the chicken.

Swill with three tablespoonfuls of mushroom cooking-liquor and as much Rhine wine; add one-fifth pint of cream; twelve mushroom-heads, sliced; and reduce the cream to half.

Complete with a pinch of chopped chervil and tarragon, and pour over the chicken.

1558—POULET SAUTÉ HONGROISE

Prepare a sufficient quantity of pilaff rice, combined with concassed tomatoes, to make a border.

Sauté the chicken in butter, without colouration, with a chopped half-onion and a little paprika. When the onion is slightly coloured, add three peeled and quartered tomatoes, and complete the cooking of the whole. Mould the rice to form a border, and set the chicken in the middle.

Add one-sixth pint of cream to the tomatoes; reduce to half; rub through tammy; heat this sauce, and pour it over the chicken.

1559—POULET SAUTÉ A L’INDIENNE OU CURRIE DE POULET

Cut the chicken into small pieces, and fry them in oil with a sliced onion and a large pinch of curry. Swill with one-sixth pint of cocoanut milk or, failing this, almond milk; add one-third pint of velouté, and complete the cooking of the chicken while reducing the sauce to half. Set in a deep dish, and serve a timbale of rice à l’Indienne separately.

1560—POULET SAUTÉ JAPONAISE

Fry the chicken in butter; add one lb. of cleaned and parboiled stachys and complete the cooking of the whole, chicken and stachys, in the oven.

Dish the chicken with the stachys upon it. Swill with one-sixth pint of slightly thickened veal stock; complete, away from the fire, with one and one-half oz. of butter, and pour this over the chicken.

1561—POULET SAUTÉ JURASSIENNE

Sauté the chicken in butter and, when it is ready, add to it one-half lb. of blanched breast of fresh pork, cut into strips and well fried in butter. Drain away three-quarters of the chicken’s grease; swill with one-sixth pint of light half-glaze sauce, and dish the chicken.

Complete the sauce with a pinch of chopped chives, and pour it over the chicken with the strips of bacon.

1562—POULET SAUTÉ LATHUILE

Heat three oz. of butter in a sautépan, just large enough to hold the chicken and its garnish. Set the pieces of chicken in this butter, together with one-half lb. of potatoes and five oz. of raw artichoke-bottoms, both cut into fair-sized dice.

When the chicken and the vegetables are coloured underneath, turn the whole over at one stroke and complete the cooking on the other side; sprinkle the chicken with three tablespoonfuls of meat glaze and a pinch of chopped parsley containing a mite of crushed garlic, and set the chicken and the garnish on a dish, after the manner of “Pommes Anna.”

Pour two and one-half oz. of nut-brown butter over the whole, and surround with roundels of seasoned onions, dredged and fried in oil, and very green, fried parsley, arranged in alternate heaps.

1563—POULET SAUTÉ LYONNAISE

Sauté

Complete the cooking of the chicken and the onions together, and dish the former. Swill with one-sixth pint of veal gravy; reduce; pour this liquor and the onions over the chicken, and sprinkle the whole with a pinch of chopped parsley.

1564—POULET SAUTÉ MARENGO

Sauté the chicken in oil. Swill the sautépan with white wine; add two peeled and concassed tomatoes, or one and one-half tablespoonfuls of tomato purée, a mite of crushed garlic, ten small mushrooms, and ten slices of truffle.

Dish the chicken; cover it with sauce and garnish; surround it with heart-shaped croûtons, fried in butter; small, fried eggs, and trussed crayfish cooked in court-bouillon, and sprinkle the whole with a pinch of concassed parsley.

1565—POULET SAUTÉ MARYLAND

Season the pieces of chicken; dip them in butter; roll them in bread-crumbs, and cook them in clarified butter. Dish, placing a slice of grilled bacon between each piece of chicken; surround with small, fried galettes of maize flour, and fried slices of banana.

Serve a horse-radish sauce with cream, separately.

1566—POULET SAUTÉ MARSEILLAISE

Sauté the chicken in oil, and, when it is half-cooked, add thereto two crushed cloves of garlic; three oz. of ciseled, green capsicums, and the same weight of quartered tomatoes—all three tossed in oil.

When the chicken is cooked, drain away the oil; swill the pan with one-sixth pint of white wine and a few drops of lemon juice, and reduce almost entirely.

Dish the chicken; cover it with the garnish, and sprinkle with a pinch of concassed parsley.

1567—POULET SAUTÉ MEXICAINE

Sauté the chicken in oil; swill the sautépan with a few tablespoonfuls of white wine; reduce, and add one-sixth pint of tomatéd veal gravy.

Dish the chicken; pour the sauce over it, and surround it with grilled capsicums and mushrooms, garnished with concassed tomatoes cooked in butter.

1568—POULET SAUTÉ MIREILLE

Sauté the chicken in oil and add to it, when half-cooked, one chopped onion, four concassed tomatoes, and one pimento cut into dice. Ten minutes before serving, flavour with a small piece of crushed garlic.

Dish the chicken; pour the juice of the tomatoes into the sautépan; reduce to half, and strain over the chicken.

Serve a timbale of rice, flavoured with saffron, separately.

1569—POULET SAUTÉ AUX MORILLES

Colour the chicken in butter and three-parts cook it; add to it two-thirds lb. of morels, stewed in butter, and complete the cooking of the chicken, under cover, in the oven.

Dish the chicken with the morels upon it; swill the sautépan with a tablespoonful of brandy; add thereto the juice of the morels, two tablespoonfuls of meat glaze, and one and one-half oz. of butter, and pour this sauce over the chicken.

1570—POULET SAUTÉ NORMANDE

Half-sauté the chicken in butter, and set the pieces in a cocotte with one lb. of peeled and sliced russet apples. Swill with a small glassful of liqueur cider; put this liquor in the cocotte; cover, and set in the oven, that the chicken may be completely cooked and the apples as well.

Serve the preparation, as it stands, in the cocotte.

1571—POULET SAUTÉ PARMENTIER

Brown the chicken in butter, and add one lb. of potatoes, raised by means of an oval spoon-cutter, or cut into large dice, and already slightly frizzled in butter.

Complete the cooking in the oven, and dish the chicken with the potatoes arranged in heaps all round. Swill with a few tablespoonfuls of white wine; add to it a tablespoonful of veal gravy; pour this over the chicken, and sprinkle the latter with a pinch of chopped parsley.

1572—POULET SAUTÉ PIÉMONTAISE

Sauté the chicken in butter and dish it.

Swill with a few tablespoonfuls of white wine; add thereto a tablespoonful of melted pale meat glaze, and pour this over the chicken. Sprinkle it at the last moment with two oz. of nut-brown butter, and finally with chopped parsley, and serve a timbale of rizotto with white truffles separately.

1573—POULET SAUTÉ PORTUGAISE

Sauté the chicken in butter and oil, and dish it. Drain away a portion of the butter used in the cooking, add to the remainder a mite of crushed garlic and a chopped half-onion; and, when the latter is fried, add four oz. of peeled and concassed tomatoes, two oz. of sliced mushrooms, a few drops of white wine, and a pinch of concassed parsley.

Complete the cooking of the whole, taking care to reduce all moisture.

Cover the chicken with its garnish, and surround it with half-tomatoes or tomatoes stuffed with rice.

1574—POULET SAUTÉ PROVENÇALE

Sauté the chicken in oil and dish it. Swill with white wine and add thereto a mite of crushed garlic, three oz. of concassed tomatoes, four anchovy fillets cut into dice, twelve black olives stoned and parboiled, and a pinch of chopped sweet basil.

Leave the whole to simmer for five minutes, and cover the chicken with it.

1575—POULET SAUTÉ STANLEY

Colour the chicken in butter, and complete its cooking under cover with one-half lb. of minced onions. Dish it in a flat, earthenware cocotte, setting a heap of mushrooms on either side of it; add one-third pint of cream to the onions; simmer for ten minutes; rub through tammy, and reduce.

Finish this sauce with one oz. of butter, a little curry, and pour it over the chicken.

Set ten slices of truffle on the latter.

1576—POULET SAUTÉ AUX TRUFFES

Half-sauté the chicken in butter; add six oz. of raw truffles, cut into slices, and complete the cooking under cover. Dish; swill with a few tablespoonfuls of Madeira; reduce; add three tablespoonfuls of half-glaze sauce; finish with one and one-half oz. of butter, and pour this sauce over the chicken.

1577—POULET SAUTÉ VAN DYCK

Cook the chicken in butter without letting it brown; swill with one-sixth pint of cream; add one-sixth pint of suprême sauce, and reduce by a third.

Mix one-half lb. of young parboiled hop-sprouts to the sauce; simmer for two minutes, and pour over the chicken, which should be dished in a cocotte.

1578—POULET SAUTÉ VICHY

Colour the chicken in butter; add one-half lb. of half-cooked carrots à2061) to it, and complete the cooking of the chicken and the carrots under cover in the oven.

Swill with a few tablespoonfuls of veal stock; dish the pullet, and cover it with the garnish of carrots.

1579—POULET SAUTÉ VERDI

Prepare a border of rizotto à la Piémontaise.

Sauté the chicken in butter; set it in the centre of the border, and on the latter arrange a crown of slices of foie gras, tossed in butter, alternated with slices of truffle, resting against the chicken.

Swill with Asti wine; reduce; add three tablespoonfuls of veal stock and one and one-half oz. of butter, and pour this sauce over the pieces of chicken.

1580—FILETS 1581—SUPRÊMES 1582—CÔTELETTES 1583—AILERONS OF CHICKEN

1581—SUPRÊMES

1582—CÔTELETTES

1583—AILERONS OF CHICKEN

The terms “Fillet” and “Suprême” are synonymous, and either one or the other may be used for variety to express the same thing on a menu. They are names given to the breast of the fowl, divided into two along the sternum, and cleared of all skin. Each fillet or suprême comprises the large and the minion fillets.

When suprêmes are taken from a small chicken, the minion fillets are not removed; if the chicken be an ordinary one or a pullet, the minion fillets are removed, cleared of all tendons, and twisted into rings or crescents, after having been contised with slices of truffle that are half-inserted into the little incisions, made at regular intervals in the meat with the point of a knife.

Prepared in this way, these fillets are generally included in the garnish of the suprêmes. Chicken ailerons and cutlets (the latter must not be mistaken for those prepared from cooked meat and which are only a kind of croquette) are suprêmes to which the humerus-bone of the wing is left adhering.

Cutlets are always cut from such fowls as chickens à la Reine, or very fleshy, spring chickens. The same rule applies to suprêmes: though, sometimes, the latter are cut from pullets. But, in that case, as they would be too large, they are cut into three or four very regular pieces, which are slightly flattened, and trimmed to the shape of hearts or ovals; except when they have to be stuffed.

In the latter case, they are opened in the thickness, by means of the point of a small knife, to form sacks; and, in the resulting interstice the selected stuffing is inserted, with the help of a piping-bag fitted with a little, even pipe, and in a sufficient quantity to fill out the suprêmes well.

Suprêmes and cutlets are always cooked without liquor, or almost so; for should any moistening liquid even approach the boil, it would immediately harden them. If they be desired poached, it would be best to cook the whole fowl, and cut them from the latter when it is cooked.

This is how they are prepared, according as to whether they be required colourless or sautéd; though the brown method of preparing them is applied more particularly to cutlets.

Cutlets or suprêmes sautéd: Season them with salt; roll them in flour; set them in a vegetable pan containing some very hot clarified butter, and quickly gild them on both sides. These pieces of fowl are so tender that they are cooked and gilded at the same moment of time.

Cutlets or suprêmes prepared without colouration: Season them, and set them in a vegetable-pan, containing some fresh, melted, unclarified butter. Roll the suprêmes in this butter; add a few drops of lemon juice; thoroughly seal the vegetable-pan, and put it in a very hot oven.

A few minutes suffice for the poaching of the suprêmes, which are known to be ready when they seem resilient to the touch, and are perfectly white.

Important Remarks: Chicken Suprêmes or cutlets should never be allowed to wait, lest they harden. They should be cooked quickly, at the last moment; dished and served immediately. The shortest wait is enough to spoil them, and to make an insipid and dry preparation of what should be an exquisite dish.

N.B.—The recipes given hereafter for suprêmes may of course be applied to fillets, cutlets, ailerons, blanc de poulet, &c.

1584—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE AGNÈS

Line some oval buttered tartlet-moulds with mousseline forcemeat. Upon the latter, put some raw, sliced mushrooms, tossed in butter; cover with forcemeat so as to fill the mould, and poach in the bain-marie.

Turn out in a circle on a round dish; put a poached suprême on each tartlet; coat with Allemande sauce; deck with a truffle girt by a ring of very red tongue, and surround the suprême with a thread of pale, meat glaze.

1585—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE ALEXANDRA

Poach the suprêmes dry. Dish them with a few slices of truffle set upon them; coat them with Mornay sauce, flavoured with chicken essence, and glaze quickly. Surround with small heaps of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.

1586—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE AMBASSADRICE

Poach the suprêmes dry. Dish them; coat them with suprême sauce, and surround them with lamb sweetbreads, studded with truffles and cooked without colouration, alternated with faggots of asparagus-heads.

1587—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE ARLÉSIENNE

Season and dredge the suprêmes, and toss them in clarified butter.

Meanwhile, fry in oil some egg-plant roundels and some seasoned and dredged roundels of onion. Also prepare a garnish of tomatoes tossed in oil. Dish the egg-plant roundels in a circle on a round dish; set the suprêmes thereon, and garnish the latter with the tossed tomatoes and the fried onions, set in small heaps upon them.

Serve a delicate, tomatéd half-glaze sauce separately.

1588—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE BOISTELLE

Cut the suprêmes into heart shapes, and stuff them with mousseline forcemeat combined with half its bulk of mashed raw mushrooms.

Put the suprêmes in a buttered vegetable-pan, with two-thirds lb. of peeled, minced, raw mushrooms; season with salt, white pepper and lemon juice, and set to poach slowly in a moderate oven.

Dish in the form of a crown, in a timbale, with the mushrooms in the centre.

Add to the liquor, which should only consist of the moisture of the mushrooms, two and one-half oz. of butter and a few drops of lemon juice; pour this sauce over the suprêmes, and complete with a pinch of chopped parsley.

1589—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE AUX CHAMPIGNONS, A BLANC

Poach the suprêmes in a little mushroom cooking-liquor.

Dish them in the form of a crown, with some fine very white cooked mushroom-heads. Coat them moderately with Allemande sauce, combined with the cooking-liquor of the suprêmes.

Serve what remains of the sauce separately.

1590—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE AUX CHAMPIGNONS, A BRUN

Cook the suprêmes in clarified butter, as already described.

Dish them; surround them with mushrooms, minced raw and tossed in butter, and coat them with a light mushroom sauce.

1591—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE CHIMAY

Cook the suprêmes in clarified butter.

Dish them; garnish them with tossed morels and asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, and surround with a thread of good thickened gravy.

1592—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE CUSSY

Collop the suprêmes; slightly flatten each collop; trim them round, dredge them, and toss them in butter.

Set each collop of suprême upon an artichoke-bottom about equal in size to the former; put a thick slice of glazed truffle on each collop, and a very white cock’s kidney upon each slice of truffle.

Serve a thickened gravy separately.

1593—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE DORIA

Season and dredge the suprêmes, and toss them quickly in clarified butter. Dish them and surround them with pieces of cucumber, shaped like garlic cloves and cooked in butter.

When about to serve, sprinkle them with a little nut-brown butter, and a few drops of lemon juice.

1594—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE DREUX

Make some incisions, at short intervals, in the suprêmes, and half-insert into these, alternate roundels of truffle and salted tongue. Poach them dry. Dish; surround with a garnish of cocks’ combs and kidneys, and slices of truffle, and pour a moderate quantity of Allemande sauce over this garnish.

1595—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE ÉCARLATE

Incise the suprêmes as above; but garnish them only with roundels of tongue. Poach them dry, and set them on oval, flat quenelles of mousseline forcemeat, sprinkled with very red chopped tongue.

Coat with clear suprême sauce, that the red of the tongue may be seen.

1596—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE ÉCOSSAISE

Poach the suprêmes.

Dish them; coat them with Écossaise sauce, and surround them with small heaps of French beans, cohered with butter.

1597—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE FAVORITE

Sauté the suprêmes in clarified butter.

Dish them in a crown, on tossed slices of foie gras, with three slices of truffle on each suprême.

In their midst set a heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, and serve, separately, a sauceboat of light meat-glaze, buttered.

1598—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE FINANCIÈRE

Sauté the suprêmes in clarified butter.

Dish them in the form of a crown, upon fried croûtons of the same size; in their midst arrange a garnish à la financière (No. 1474), and coat the suprêmes and their garnish with financière sauce.

1599—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE AUX FONDS D’ARTICHAUTS

Sauté the suprêmes in clarified butter.

Dish them with a garnish of raw artichoke-bottoms, sliced, tossed in butter, and sprinkled with fine herbs. Sprinkle a few drops of nut-brown butter over the suprêmes, and serve a thickened gravy separately.

1600—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE GEORGETTE

Prepare as many “pommes Georgette” as there are suprêmes, and take care to choose potatoes of the same size as the suprêmes.

Poach the suprêmes. Set one on each potato, with a fine slice of truffle in the middle, and arrange in the form of a crown on a round dish.

1601—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE HENRI IV.

Collop the suprêmes; slightly flatten the collops, and trim them round. Season and dredge them; sauté them in clarified butter, and set each collop on an artichoke bottom, slightly garnished with buttered meat-glaze.

Serve a Béarnaise sauce separately.

1602—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE HONGROISE

Prepare some pilaff rice, combined with concassed tomatoes, and dish it in a shallow timbale.

Season the suprêmes with paprika

Swill the vegetable-pan with a few tablespoonfuls of cream; add the necessary quantity of Hongroise sauce, and coat the suprêmes with this sauce.

1603—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE A L’INDIENNE

Sauté the suprêmes in butter, and put them for a few minutes in a curry sauce à l’Indienne, but without letting the latter boil.

Dish the suprêmes in a timbale with the curry sauce.

Serve a timbale of rice à l’Indienne, separately.

1604—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE JARDINIÈRE

Sauté the suprêmes in butter. Dish and surround with small heaps of vegetables, arranged very neatly, as explained in the case of the Jardinière garnish.

Sprinkle the suprêmes with a few drops of nut-brown butter, just before serving.

1605—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE JUDIC

Cut the suprêmes into heart shapes; season them, and poach them dry.

Dish them in a crown, upon little braised lettuces; and set a slice of truffle and a cock’s kidney upon each heart of suprême. Coat slightly with thickened gravy.

1606—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE MARÉCHALE

It is the rule that all preparations termed “à la Maréchale” should be treated with chopped truffle; that is to say that the latter takes the place of the customary bread-crumbs.

For the sake of economy the à l’anglaise treatment (i.e., egg and bread-crumbs) is more commonly applied; so the reader may choose which of the two he prefers. In any case, sauté the suprêmes in butter; dish them in the form of a crown, with a fine slice of truffle on each, and set in their midst a garnish of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.

N.B.—Formerly, these suprêmes, like all preparations “à la Maréchale,” were gently grilled upon buttered paper.

1607—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE MARYLAND

Proceed exactly as directed under “Poulet sauté à la Maryland” (No. 1565).

1608—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE MONTPENSIER

Roll the suprêmes in beaten egg and bread-crumbs, and sauté them in clarified butter. Dish them in a crown with a slice of truffle upon each, and surround with small heaps of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.

Sprinkle the suprêmes with a few drops of nut-brown butter.

1609—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE ORLY

Take some suprêmes of chicken à la Reine, and set them on a dish with parsley stalks and finely sliced onions; sprinkle with a little oil and lemon juice, and set to marinade for an hour.

When about to prepare them, dry them by means of a piece of linen; dip them into light batter, and put them in a very hot frying fat that they may cook quickly.

Drain; dish on a napkin with bunches or a border of very green fried parsley, and serve a tomato sauce separately.

1610—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE A L’ORIENTALE

Sauté the suprêmes in butter, and dish them each upon a thick slice of chow-chow, cut to the same shape, parboiled, and stewed in butter beforehand. Coat with Suprême sauce, combined with a quarter of its bulk of tomato purée, and flavoured moderately with saffron.

1611—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE EN PAPILLOTE

Cut out as many heart-shaped pieces of kitchen paper as there are suprêmes, and either butter or oil them.

Quickly stiffen the suprêmes in butter. In the centre of each paper heart, set a slice of ham cut to the shape of a triangle; cover the ham with a tablespoonful of reduced Italienne sauce; set the suprêmes on the sauce, and cover it with the same sauce and another triangle of ham. Close the pieces of paper, and pleat their edges in such wise as to entirely enclose their contents; set the papillotes, thus prepared, on a tray; and put them in a sufficiently hot oven to allow of completing the cooking of the suprêmes and blowing out the papillotes.

1612—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE AU PARMESAN

Season the suprêmes; dip them in beaten egg and roll them in grated Parmesan. Sauté them in butter, and dish them on croûtons of polenta (No. 2294), shaped somewhat like the suprêmes and browned in clarified butter. When about to serve, sprinkle the suprêmes with nut-brown butter.

1613—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE A LA POLIGNAC

Poach the suprêmes dry, and dish them.

Coat them with Suprême sauce, combined with a julienne of truffles and mushrooms.

1614—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE A LA POJARSKI

Mince the suprêmes, and, in so doing, combine with them, first, the quarter of their weight of bread-crumbs dipped in milk and well squeezed, and the same weight of fresh butter; and then an equal quantity of fresh cream, which should be added little by little. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg.

Divide up this preparation into portions equal in size to the suprêmes, and shape them exactly like the latter; in short, reconstruct the suprêmes exactly with this mince-meat.

Dredge; cook in clarified butter, and serve as soon as ready.

There is no hard and fast rule for the garnishing of these suprêmes; the garnish is therefore optional.

1615—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE RÉGENCE

Cut the suprêmes into heart shapes; flatten them slightly, and poach them. Set each suprême on a quenelle of chicken forcemeat, prepared with crayfish butter, and dish in the form of a crown. Coat with Allemande sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, and, on each suprême, set an olive-shaped truffle and a cock’s kidney—the two separated by a cock’s comb.

1616—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE RICHELIEU

Treat the suprêmes à l’anglaise, and cook them in clarified butter.

Dish them; coat them with half-melted butter à la Maître d’hôtel, and set four fine slices of truffle on each suprême.

1617—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE ROSSINI

Sauté the suprêmes in butter, and dish them on collops of foie gras, arranged in the form of a crown and also tossed in butter. Coat with a strong Madeira sauce, combined with slices of truffle.

1618—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE TALLEYRAND

Prepare:—(1) a croustade of lining paste, of a size in proportion to the garnish to be put inside it, just as the garnish should be in proportion to the number of suprêmes:—(2) a garnish of macaroni with cream, combined with three oz. of foie gras and three oz. of truffles in dice, per one-half lb. of macaroni.

Cut the suprêmes to the shape of hearts; stuff them with godiveau with cream (No. 198), mixed with half its bulk of a purée of foie gras, and poach them dry.

Put the macaroni in the croustade, shaping it like a dome in so doing; coat the suprêmes with Allemande sauce, and set them in a crown on the timbale and round the dome of macaroni.

Send a sauceboat of velouté to the table separately.

1619—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE VALENÇAY

Stuff the suprêmes with truffles, cut into small dice and cohered with very reduced Allemande sauce. Treat them à l’anglaise and cook them in butter.

Prepare some fried croûtons, shaped like cocks’ combs, in the proportion of two for each suprême; cover these with a dome of fine truffled forcemeat, and put them in a moderate oven that the forcemeat may poach.

Dish the suprêmes in the form of a crown; surround them with the croûtons; and, in their midst, pour a purée of mushrooms.

1620—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE A LA VALOIS

Treat the suprêmes à l’anglaise, and cook them in clarified butter.

Dish them with a garnish of small, stoned olives, stuffed and poached at the last moment.

Serve a Valois sauce separately.

1621—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE VERNEUIL

Marinade the suprêmes as for No. 1609; treat them à l’anglaise, and cook them in clarified butter. Dish them in the form of a crown, and coat them with Colbert sauce.

Serve separately a purée of artichokes, combined with finely-minced truffles.

1622—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE VILLEROY

Poach the suprêmes without completely cooking them.

Dip them in a Villeroy sauce, in such wise that they may be well coated with it. Leave them to cool; treat them à l’anglaise; and, a few minutes before serving, put them in some very hot frying fat. Dish them in the form of a crown, and serve a Périgueux sauce separately.

1623—BLANC DE POULET ÉLISABETH

Raise the suprêmes of two small chickens; poach them in butter and lemon juice, and coat them with Suprême sauce.

Dish them around a low, very cold cushion of bread, placed on the dish at the last moment. Upon the cushion, quickly set a dozen shelled oysters, which should have been kept in ice for at least two hours before dishing.

Serve very quickly in order that the suprêmes may be very hot and the oysters very cold. Send a Suprême sauce separately.

1624—TURBAN DE FILETS DE POULET

Take the required number of fillets, which is determined by the size of the mould to be used. Flatten these fillets out somewhat thinly, and trim them neatly on both sides.

With these fillets, line a buttered savarin-mould; setting a row of thin slices of truffle between each of the fillets, and allowing the latter to hang over the edge of the mould. Over the fillets spread a layer of mousseline forcemeat, two-thirds in. thick.

Three-parts fill the remaining space with a large tongue, truffles and mushrooms salpicon, cohered by means of a reduced Allemande sauce.

Cover this salpicon with forcemeat, so as to fill the mould, and then draw the overlapping ends of the fillets across the forcemeat.

Set to poach in the bain-marie for about forty minutes; and, upon withdrawing the mould, let it stand for five minutes, that its contents may settle. Turn out upon a round dish; pour a Toulousaine garnish (see Poularde No. 1524) in the middle, and surround the turban with a thread of Allemande sauce.

1625—MIGNONNETTES DE POULET

Take the required number of small, minion fillets of pullet: trim them; make six incisions in each, and half-insert into each of these incisions alternate thin roundels of truffle and tongue.

Set these minion fillets on a buttered dish, and shape them like rings.

Trim and indent the edges of as many artichoke-bottoms as there are minion fillets, and heat them in butter. Garnish these artichoke-bottoms, dome-fashion, with a very white and somewhat stiff chicken purée. Sprinkle the minion fillets with a little mushroom cooking-liquor, and poach them in the oven for from five to six minutes.

Set the artichoke-bottoms in a circle on a round dish, and set a minion fillet upon each.

Serve a very delicate Suprême sauce, separately.

1626—NONNETTES DE POULET AGNÈS

Truss twelve ortolans for entrées, and stiffen them in butter for a moment.

Raise the fillets of twelve spring chickens; trim them; flatten them slightly and pair them off, putting the edges of one on the other, that a larger surface may be obtained.

In the middle of these joined suprêmes of chicken, put an ortolan; wrap it in them, and tie them round once or twice with string, that they may keep the shape of a paupiette.

Set these paupiettes in a shallow sautépan, and, five minutes before serving, sprinkle them with four oz. of boiling butter; salt moderately, and cook in a fierce oven.

After having removed the string, set each nonnette on a square, hollowed crouton of bread-crumb, fried in butter, and coated inside with foie-gras purée. Coat moderately with a light chicken glaze, finished with butter, and squeeze a drop of lemon juice on each nonnette.

1627—URSULINES DE NANCY

Prepare some barquette crusts.

Mould some chicken forcemeat into large, round, regular quenelles, and poach them in some white consommé, in time for them to be ready when the Ursulines are being dished.

A few moments before serving, garnish the barquette crusts with foie-gras purée, thinned with a little good half-glaze, flavoured with port or sherry wine. In the middle of each garnished barquette, set a well-drained mousseline quenelle; deck each quenelle with a thin and wide slice of truffle; set a small heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, at either end of the barquettes, that is to say, on either side of the quenelle; and slightly coat the latter with chicken glaze, finished with butter.

Serve, separately, a sauceboat containing some of the same chicken glaze with butter.

1628—FILETS DE POULET A LA SAINT-GERMAIN

Season the fillets, dip them in melted butter and roll them in bread-crumbs; grill them gently, each on a sheet of oiled paper, and sprinkle with clarified butter during the operation.

Dish the grilled fillets, and serve at the same time:—(1) a Béarnaise sauce; (2) a timbale containing a purée of foie gras with cream.

1629—FILETS DE POULET MIREILLE

Prepare a garnish as for No. 1365; i.e., sliced, raw potatoes and artichoke-bottoms, set in a small earthenware dish and cooked as “Pommes Anna.”

Sauté the fillets in butter at the last moment; put them on the garnish, and sprinkle them with nut-brown butter.

SPRING CHICKENS (POULETS DE GRAINS)

Spring chickens are usually either grilled or prepared “en casserole” in accordance with one or another of the many recipes applicable to them.

1630—POULET DE GRAINS A LA BELLE-MEUNIÈRE

Stuff the chicken with four sliced chickens’ livers and three oz. of raw, quartered mushrooms, slightly tossed in butter. Slip five or six fine slices of truffle under the skin of the breast; truss the chicken as for an entrée, and brown it in butter.

This done, put it into an oval cocotte, with two oz. of butter, four rectangles of blanched breast of pork, and three oz. of raw quartered mushrooms, quickly tossed in butter beforehand.

Cook in the oven, under cover, and add two tablespoonfuls of veal gravy, just before serving.

1631—POULET DE GRAINS A LA BERGÈRE

Fry in butter four oz. of blanched breast of pork, cut into dice, and one-half lb. of small, whole mushrooms. Drain, and set to brown in the same butter, the chicken stuffed with a half-onion and three oz. of mushrooms, chopped and fried in butter, and mixed with three oz. of butter and a coffeespoonful of chopped parsley.

When the chicken is well coloured or gilded, put the bacon and the mushrooms round it; swill with one-sixth pint of white wine; reduce by two-thirds; add four tablespoonfuls of veal gravy, and complete the cooking of the chicken in the oven.

Set it on a round dish; thicken the cooking-liquor with a piece of manied butter, the size of a hazel-nut, or a little arrow-root; pour the sauce and the garnish round the chicken, and surround it with a border of freshly-fried straw potatoes.

1632—POULET DE GRAINS BONNE FEMME

Fry in butter four oz. of breast of fresh or salted pork, cut into slices and blanched. Drain; colour the chicken in the same fat, and put it in an oval cocotte with the slices of bacon.