Part 2 — CHAPTER XX Entremets (Sweets) (continued 2)

(1) Puddings with cream.

(2) Fruit puddings.

(3) English fruit puddings.

(4) Plum puddings.

(5) French and German bread puddings.

(6) English and French paste puddings.

(7) Rice puddings.

(8) Souffléd puddings.

Puddings allow of various accompanying sauces, which will be given in each recipe. The majority of English puddings may be accompanied by stewed fruit, Melba sauce, or whipped cream “à la Chantilly.”

Puddings with Cream.

2480—ALMOND PUDDING

Make a preparation for souffléd pudding (No. 2505), moistened with almond milk. Pour it into copiously-buttered moulds, sprinkled inside with splintered and grilled almonds.

Set to poach in the bain-marie. As an accompaniment serve a sabayon prepared with white wine and flavoured with orgeat.

2481—ENGLISH ALMOND PUDDING

Mix to the consistence of a pomade four oz. of butter and five oz. of powdered sugar; add eight oz. of finely-chopped almonds, a pinch of table salt, a half table-spoonful of orange-flower water, two eggs, two egg-yolks, and one-sixth pint of cream. Pour this preparation into a buttered pie-dish, and cook in a bain-marie in the oven.

N.B.—English puddings of what kind soever are served in the dishes or basins in which they have cooked.

2482—BISCUIT PUDDING

Crush eight oz. of lady’s-finger biscuits in a saucepan, and moisten them with one pint of boiling milk containing five oz. of sugar. Stir the whole over the fire, and add five oz. of candied fruit, cut into dice and mixed with currants (both products having been macerated in kirsch), three egg-yolks, four oz. of melted butter, and the white of five eggs beaten to a stiff froth.

Set to poach in a bain-marie, in a low, even Charlotte mould, or in a pie-dish, and serve an apricot sauce at the same time.

2483—CABINET PUDDING

Garnish a buttered cylinder-mould with lady’s-finger biscuits or slices of buttered biscuit, saturated with some kind of liqueur; arranging them in alternate layers with a salpicon of candied fruit and currants, macerated in liqueur. Here and there spread a little apricot jam.

Fill up the mould, little by little, with preparation No. 2639, flavoured according to fancy. Poach in a bain-marie.

Turn out the pudding at the last moment, and coat it with English custard flavoured with vanilla.

2484—FRUIT PUDDING

This pudding requires very careful treatment. The custard which serves as its base is the same as that of Cabinet Pudding, except that it is thickened by seven eggs and seven egg-yolks per quart of milk. This preparation is, moreover, combined with a purée of fruit suited to the pudding.

Procedure: Butter a mould; set it in a bain-marie, and pour a few table-spoonfuls of the above preparation into it. Let it set, and upon this set custard sprinkle a layer of suitable fruit, sliced. This fruit may be apricots, peaches, pears, etc. Cover the fruit with a fresh coat of custard, but more copiously than in the first case; let this custard set as before; cover it with fruit, and proceed in the same order until the mould is full.

It is, in short, another form of aspic-jelly preparation, but hot instead of cold. If the solidification of the layers of custard were not ensured, the fruit would fall to the bottom of the mould instead of remaining distributed between the layers of custard, and the result would be the collapse of the pudding as soon as it was turned out.

Continue the cooking in the bain-marie; let the preparation stand a few minutes before turning it out, and serve at the same time a sauce made from the same fruit as that used for the pudding.

English Fruit Puddings.

2485—APPLE PUDDING

Prepare a suet paste from one lb. of flour, ten oz. of finely-chopped suet, quarter of a pint of water and a pinch of salt.

Let the paste rest for an hour, and roll it out to a thickness of one-third of an inch.

With this layer of paste, line a well-buttered dome-mould or large pudding-basin. Garnish with sliced apples mixed with powdered sugar and flavoured with a chopped piece of lemon peel.

Close the mould with a well-sealed-down layer of paste; wrap the mould in a piece of linen, which should be firmly fastened with string; plunge it into a saucepan containing boiling water, and in the case of a quart pudding-basin or mould, let it cook for about three hours.

N.B.—This pudding may be made with other fleshy fruit, as also with certain vegetables such as the pumpkin, etc.

2486—PLUM PUDDING

Put into a basin one lb. of chopped suet; one lb. of bread-crumb; half lb. of flour; half lb. of peeled and chopped apples; half lb. each of Malaga raisins, currants and sultanas; two oz. each of candied orange, lemon and cedrat rinds, cut into small dice; two oz. of ginger; four oz. of chopped almonds; eight oz. of powdered sugar; the juice and the chopped rind of half an orange and half a lemon; one-third oz. of mixed spices, containing a large quantity of cinnamon; three eggs; quarter of a pint of rum or brandy, and one-third of a pint of stout. The fruit should, if possible, have previously macerated in liqueur for a long time.

Thoroughly mix the whole.

Pour the preparation into white earthenware pudding-basins, with projecting rims; press it into them, and then wrap them in a buttered and flour-dusted cloth which tie into a knot on top.

Cook in boiling water or in steam for four hours.

When about to serve, sprinkle the puddings with heated brandy or rum, and set them alight, or accompany them, either with a sabayon with rum, with Brandy Butter (as directed under “Gil-Blas pancakes” but without sugar), or with an English custard thickened with arrowroot.

2487—AMERICAN PUDDING

Put into a basin two and a half oz. of bread-crumb; three oz. of powdered sugar; three oz. of flour; two and a half oz. of marrow and an equal quantity of suet (both chopped); three oz. of candied fruit cut into dice; one egg and three egg-yolks, a pinch of chopped orange or lemon zest; a little nutmeg and cinnamon, and a liqueur-glassful of brandy or rum.

Mix up the whole; pour the preparation into a buttered and dredged mould or basin, and cook in the bain-marie.

Serve a sabayon with rum at the same time.

2488—MARROW PUDDING

Melt half a lb. of beef-marrow and two oz. of suet, in a bain-marie, and let it get tepid. Then work this grease in a basin with half a lb. of powdered sugar; three oz. of bread-crumbs, dipped in milk and pressed; three whole eggs and eight egg-yolks; half a lb. of candied fruit, cut into dice; three oz. of sultanas and two oz. of pipped, Malaga raisins.

Pour this preparation into an even, deep, buttered and dredged border-mould; and poach in the bain-marie.

Serve a sabayon with rum at the same time.

Bread Puddings.

2489—ENGLISH BREAD PUDDING

Butter some thin slices of crumb of bread and distribute over them some currants and sultanas, swelled in tepid water and well drained. Set these slices in a pie-dish; cover with preparation No. 2638, and poach in front of the oven.

2490—FRENCH BREAD PUDDING

Soak two-thirds of a lb. of white bread-crumb in one and three-quarter pints of boiled milk, flavoured with vanilla and containing eight oz. of sugar. Rub through a sieve and add: four whole eggs, six egg-yolks, and four egg-whites, beaten to a stiff froth.

Pour this preparation into a deep, buttered border-mould, dusted with bread-crumbs; and poach in bain-marie.

As an accompaniment, serve either an English custard, a vanilla-flavoured sabayon, or a fruit sauce.

2491—GERMAN BREAD PUDDING

Soak two-thirds of a lb. of brown bread-crumb in one and three quarter pints of Rhine wine, Moselle or beer, containing half a lb. of moist sugar and a little cinnamon. Rub through a sieve and add four eggs, six egg-yolks, five oz. of melted butter, and the whites of four eggs beaten to a froth. Poach in a bain-marie as in the preceding case. The adjunct to this pudding is invariably a fruit syrup.

2492—SCOTCH BREAD PUDDING

Proceed exactly as for No. 2490, but add five oz. of sliced seasonable fruit. Mould and poach in the same way, and serve a red-currant sauce flavoured with raspberries, as an accompaniment.

Paste Puddings.

2493—TAPIOCA

Sprinkle eight oz. of tapioca into one and three-quarter pints of boiling milk, containing four oz. of sugar, a pinch of salt and three oz. of butter.

Cook in the oven for twenty minutes; transfer the preparation to another saucepan, and add to it six egg-yolks, two and a half oz. of butter, and the whites of four eggs beaten to a stiff froth.

Pour the whole into a well-buttered cylinder-mould, sprinkled with tapioca, and poach in the bain-marie until the preparation seems resilient to the touch. Let the pudding stand for seven or eight minutes before turning it out. Serve an English custard, a sabayon or a fruit sauce as accompaniment.

2494—SAGO PUDDING

Proceed as above, but substitute sago for the tapioca, and sprinkle the inside of the mould with sago. The treatment and adjuncts are the same.

2495—SEMOLINA PUDDING

Proceed as for No. 2493, but use semolina instead of tapioca, and sprinkle the mould with granulated semolina.

2496—VERMICELLI PUDDING

Proceed as for No. 2493, but use vermicelli, and sprinkle the mould with bits of vermicelli, which should not be broken up overmuch.

2497—FRESH-NOODLE PUDDING

Proceed in exactly the same way as for No. 2493.

2498—ENGLISH TAPIOCA, SAGO, AND SEMOLINA PUDDINGS, ETC.

Whatever be the paste used, it should be cooked in very slightly-sugared milk, flavoured according to fancy, and in the quantities given above. Thicken by means of two eggs per pint of the preparation; pour the whole into a buttered pie-dish, and cook in the oven in a bain-marie.

N.B.—All English puddings of this class are made in the same way, and, as already stated, are served in the dish in which they have cooked.

2499—BRAZILIAN PUDDING

Make the preparation for tapioca pudding and pour it into a mould, clothed with sugar cooked to the caramel stage.

Poach in a bain-marie and serve plain.

2500—CHEVREUSE PUDDING

This is semolina pudding served with a Sabayon, flavoured with kirsch.

2501—RICE PUDDING

Prepare the rice as directed under No. 2404, and mix with it (per lb. of raw rice) the whites of fifteen eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Mould in buttered moulds sprinkled with raspings.

The cooking and the adjuncts are the same as for Nos. 2493, 2494, etc.

2502—ENGLISH RICE PUDDING

The quantities for this pudding are: six oz. of rice, one quart of milk (flavoured according to fancy), two oz. of sugar and three oz. of butter. The grains of rice should be kept somewhat firm, but the whole should be rather liquid. Thicken with three eggs; cook the preparation in the oven, in a pie-dish; and on taking the pudding out of the oven sprinkle its surface with icing sugar.

2503—RICE AND CHOCOLATE PUDDING

Add two oz. of chocolate to every lb. of the preparation of rice, made after No. 2404, and combine therewith the whites of three eggs beaten to a fairly stiff froth; pour the preparation into a buttered pie-dish, and cook in the oven.

Serve some chocolate custard (combined with its bulk of whisked cream) separately.

N.B.—This sweet may be served hot or cold.

Souffléd Puddings.

2504—SAXON PUDDING

Work four oz. of butter to a pomade in a basin. Add four oz. of powdered sugar and four oz. of sifted flour, and dilute with two-thirds pint of boiled milk.

Boil this preparation, stirring it the while; and dry it over a fierce fire as in the case of a panada for a “Pâte à choux.”

Take off the fire; thicken with five egg-yolks; and then carefully mix with it the five whites beaten to a stiff froth. Pour into well-buttered moulds, and poach in a bain-marie.

As an accompaniment serve an English custard or a Sabayon, flavoured according to fancy.

2505—ALMOND SOUFFLÉD

Make a preparation as for No. 2504, but use almond milk instead of cow’s milk. Pour the preparation into buttered moulds, sprinkled with splintered and grilled almonds, and poach in a bain-marie.

As an accompaniment serve a white-wine Sabayon flavoured with orgeat.

2506—SOUFFLÉD PUDDING, DENISE

Finely pound four oz. of freshly-washed and peeled almonds, and add thereto, from time to time, a few drops of fresh water. When the almonds form a smooth paste, add the necessary quantity of water to them to produce one pint of milk. Strain through muslin and slightly twist the latter in order to express all the contained liquid.

With this almond milk, dilute three oz. of flour and three oz. of rice cream, mixed in a saucepan, and take care that no lumps form. Strain the whole through a strainer, and add five oz. of sugar, three oz. of butter and a little salt.

Set the saucepan on the fire; boil, stirring the while, and then stir briskly with a spatula until the preparation acquires the consistence of a thick paste and falls from the spatula without leaving any adhering portions. Pour this paste into a basin and combine therewith: first, little by little, two oz. of fresh butter; then, eight egg-yolks, two ounces of finely-pounded almonds moistened with a tablespoonful of kirsch and as much maraschino, and the whites of five eggs beaten to a stiff froth.

This pudding is cooked in a bain-marie in one of the following ways:

(1) In a buttered pie dish. In this case, on taking the pudding out of the bain-marie, sprinkle its surface with icing sugar, and criss-cross it with a red-hot iron.

(2) In a shallow, buttered and dredged, Charlotte-mould.

(3) In fairly shallow, buttered dome-moulds, lined inside with roundels one inch in diameter, stamped (by means of a fancy-cutter) out of a layer of Génoise or a layer of “lady’s-finger-biscuit” preparation, about one-third of an inch thick.

In the two last cases, the pudding is coated with an apricot sauce, mixed with almond milk, and a sauceboat of the same sauce is served separately.

2507—LEMON SOUFFLÉD PUDDING

Make the preparation for No. 2504, and flavour it with a piece of lemon rind. The treatment is the same.

Serve an English custard, flavoured with lemon separately.

2508—ORANGE, CURAÇAOPUDDINGS, ETC.

For all these puddings the procedure is the same as for No. 2504, and only the flavour changes.

Accompany each with an English custard, flavoured like the particular pudding.

2509—INDIAN SOUFFLÉD PUDDING

Take some souffléd-pudding preparation and add to it two oz. of powdered ginger, and five oz. of candied ginger, cut into dice. Proceed in the same way as for No. 2504.

As an accompaniment, serve an English custard flavoured with ginger.

2510—CHESTNUT SOUFFLÉD PUDDING

Cook two lbs. of peeled chestnuts in a light, vanilla-flavoured syrup.

Rub them through a sieve, add five oz. of powdered sugar and three oz. of butter to the purée, and dry it over a fierce fire. Thicken it with eight egg-yolks and finish it with the whites of six eggs, beaten to a stiff froth.

Poach in buttered moulds in a bain-marie.

As an accompaniment, serve, either an English custard, or a vanilla-flavoured apricot syrup.

2511—MOUSSELINE PUDDING

Work four oz. of butter and four oz. of powdered sugar to a pomade, and add the yolks of ten eggs, one by one; meanwhile stirring the preparation.

Set the latter on a moderate fire until it veneers the withdrawn spoon; then immediately add the whites of seven eggs beaten to a stiff froth.

Pour the whole into a deep, buttered border-mould, which only half fill, in view of the subsequent expansion of the preparation while cooking.

Poach in a bain-marie for about thirty minutes, and let the pudding stand for ten minutes before turning it out.

As an accompaniment serve a light Sabayon or a fruit sauce.

2512—SOUFFLÉD PUDDING A LA RÉGENCE

Make a souffléd-pudding preparation flavoured with vanilla, and poach it in a bain-marie, in a mould clothed with sugar cooked to the caramel stage. Serve an English custard, prepared with caramel, separately.

2513—SOUFFLÉD PUDDING A LA REINE

Take some vanilla-flavoured, souffléd-pudding preparation. Take a mould with a central tube; butter it, and besprinkle it with chopped pistachios and crushed macaroons. Set the preparation in the mould in layers, alternated by coats of chopped pistachios and crushed macaroons; and poach in a bain-marie.

As an accompaniment serve an English custard combined with pralin.

2514—SOUFFLÉD PUDDING A LA ROYALE

Line the bottom and sides of a buttered Charlotte-mould with thin slices of biscuit spread with jam and rolled up. Garnish the mould with a souffléd-pudding preparation, and poach in a bain-marie.

Serve an apricot sauce flavoured with Marsala, separately.

2515—SOUFFLÉD

Copiously butter a mould, and sprinkle its bottom and sides with well-washed currants. Garnish with a souffléd-pudding preparation, combined per two lbs. with one lb. of peeled apples, cut into dice and cooked in butter.

Poach in a bain-marie.

2516—SOUFFLÉDA LA VESUVIENNE

Make a souffléd-pudding preparation, and add to it for the quantities given in the original recipe one and a half oz. of tomato jam and the same quantity of pipped Malaga raisins. Poach in a bain-marie in a mould with a central tube.

When the pudding is turned out, surround it with apricot sauce, and pour in the middle some heated rum, which light when serving.

2517—ROLY-POLY PUDDING

Proceed as for No. 2361: prepare a firm paste from one lb. of flour, nine oz. of chopped suet, one and a half oz. of sugar, a pinch of salt, and one-sixth pint of water. Let this paste rest for one hour before using it.

Roll it out to the shape of a rectangle one-fifth of an inch thick; spread a layer of jam upon it, and roll it up like a Swiss roll.

Wrap it in a buttered and dredged cloth, and cook it in boiling water or in steam for one and a half hours.

When about to serve, cut the roll into roundels half an inch thick, and dish them in a crown. As an accompaniment serve a fruit sauce.

2518—RISSOLES

The preparation of rissoles for sweets is the same as that for rissoles served as hors-d’œuvres, except that the former are garnished with marmalade or jam, with a fruit salpicon or with stewed fruit, with plain or pralined creams, etc.

The best paste for the purpose is derived from puff-paste trimmings.

The shape of rissoles varies very much. They may be shaped like half-moons, purses, small, round or oval patties, etc.

Rissoles for entremets are also frequently made from ordinary brioche paste, and constitute a variety of Viennese fritters. In this case they are invariably mentioned on the menu as “à la Dauphine.”

2519—SOUFFLÉS

Although soufflés are generally served unaccompanied, some stewed, seasonable fruit, or a macédoine of fresh fruit, may, nevertheless, be served with them. This, of course, only applies to soufflés with a fruit base.

I have already given the formulæ for soufflés (No. 2405); I need now, therefore, only give the peculiarities of each particular soufflé.

2520—FRUIT SOUFFLÉ

Line a round, shallow, well-buttered, croustade-mould with a very thin layer of sugared paste. Spread some vanilla-flavoured, stewed apples on the bottom, and upon it lay a garnish of various seasonable fresh stewed fruits—quartered if large. The mould ought now to be half-filled.

Fill it up with a vanilla-flavoured soufflé preparation, and cook it in a moderate oven for about twenty-five minutes.

On withdrawing it from the oven, carefully turn it out on a dish; pour a few tablespoonfuls of heated rum into the latter, and set a light to it when serving.

2521—ALMOND SOUFFLÉ

Make a preparation of soufflé with cream, but use almond milk instead of cow’s milk, add one and a half oz. of slightly-grilled, chopped almonds, per half pint of almond milk. Dish and cook in the usual way.

2522—SOUFFLÉ WITH FRESH ALMONDS

Proceed exactly as above, but use fresh splintered almonds instead of grilled, chopped ones.

2523—SOUFFLÉ WITH FILBERT

Make the soufflé preparation from milk in which two oz. of filbert pralin per one-sixth pint have previously been infused.

Dish and cook the soufflé in the usual way.

2524—SOUFFLÉ A LA CAMARGO

Make a soufflé preparation of tangerines, and another of filberts as above. Dish the two preparations in layers, alternated by “lady’s-finger biscuits,” saturated with Curaçao liqueur.

2525—PAULETTE SOUFFLÉ

Take vanilla-flavoured, soufflé preparation, thickened somewhat more than the ordinary kind, and add to it five tablespoonfuls of strawberry purée. Serve some well-cooled strawberries, coated with raspberry purée, separately.

2526—CHERRY SOUFFLÉ

Prepare a soufflé with Kirsch, accompany it with some stewed stoned cherries, covered with a raspberry purée.

2527—STRAWBERRY SOUFFLÉ

This is a soufflé with Kirsch, accompanied by iced strawberries macerated in orange juice.

2528—POMEGRANATE SOUFFLÉ “A L’ORIENTALE”

Make a soufflé preparation, slightly flavoured with vanilla. Dish it in layers in a timbale, alternated by “lady’s-finger biscuits” saturated with Grenadine and Kirsch. On withdrawing the soufflé from the oven, cover it with a veil of spun sugar, and sprinkle the latter with small sweets, flavoured with Grenadine, in imitation of pomegranate seeds.

2529—JAVA SOUFFLÉ

Make the soufflé preparation, but use tea instead of milk, and add thereto one and a half oz. of chopped pistachios per one-sixth pint of the tea.

2530—LÉRINA

Take some ordinary soufflé preparation, flavoured with Lérina liqueur, which is a kind of Chartreuse, made in the Lérins islands.

2531—SOUFFLÉ WITH LIQUEUR

This soufflé may be made, either from the soufflé with cream preparation or from that with fruit, given in the note.

The soufflés made from cream are flavoured with such liqueurs as rum, curaçao, anisette, vanilla, etc.

Those made from fruit are flavoured with Kirsch, Kümmel, etc.

2532—LUCULLUS SOUFFLÉ

Set a savarin, saturated with Kirsch-flavoured syrup, upon a dish, and surround it with a band of paper, tied on with string, in order to prevent the soufflé from drying during the cooking process.

Make a soufflé preparation with a fruit base, set it in the centre of the savarin, and cook it in the usual way.

2533—HILDA SOUFFLÉ

This is a lemon soufflé, accompanied by fine strawberries, well cooled and coated with a purée of fresh raspberries.

2534—SOUFFLÉ “A LA D’ORLÉANS”

Take some cream soufflé-preparation, combined with pieces of Jeanne-d’Arc biscuits (a kind of Rheims biscuit), saturated with peach liqueur and Kirsch, and one oz. each of half-sugared cherries and angelica, cut into dice.

2535—SOUFFLÉ PALMYRE

Take some vanilla-flavoured soufflé preparation. Set it in a timbale, in layers alternated by lady’s-finger biscuits saturated with anisette and Kirsch. Cook in the usual way.

2536—SOUFFLÉ PRALINE

Take some vanilla-flavoured soufflé preparation; add to it two ounces of almond pralin which should have previously infused in milk. When the soufflé is dished, sprinkle its surface with grilled chopped almonds, or crushed, burnt almonds.

2537—ROTHSCHILD SOUFFLÉ

Take some cream soufflé-preparation, combined with three ounces of candied fruit, cut into dice and macerated in Dantzig brandy, containing plenty of gold spangles.

When the soufflé is almost cooked, set on it a border of fine strawberries (in season), or half-sugared, preserved cherries.

It should be remembered, however, that the correct procedure demands the use of strawberries in full season.

2538—SOUFFLÉ A LA ROYALE

Take some vanilla-flavoured, soufflé-preparation. Dish it in a timbale in alternate layers with lady’s-finger biscuits, saturated with Kirsch; and distribute thereon such fruits as pine-apple, cherries, angelica and grapes—all cut into dice, and previously macerated in Kirsch.

2539—VANILLA SOUFFLÉ

Take some cream soufflé-preparation, made from milk in which a stick of vanilla has been previously infused.

2540—VIOLET SOUFFLÉ

Take some vanilla-flavoured soufflésoufflé is dished, set on it a crown of large crystallised violets, and cook in the usual way.

2541—SUBRICS

Into one pint of vanilla-flavoured boiled milk, containing three and a half oz. of sugar, drop four oz. of semolina. Add one and a half oz. of butter and a grain of salt; mix thoroughly, and gently cook in the oven under cover for twenty-five minutes.

Thicken with six egg-yolks, and spread the preparation in layers two-thirds of an inch thick over a buttered tray. Pass a piece of butter over the surface to prevent its drying, and leave to cool.

Then cut up this preparation into rings three inches in diameter.

Heat some clarified butter in a frying-pan; set the rings in it; brown them on both sides, and dish them in a circle. Garnish the centre of each ring with a tablespoonful of red-currant jelly, or very firm quince jelly.

Timbales.

2542—TIMBALE A LA D’AREMBERG

Line a buttered Charlotte mould with some fairly firm Brioche paste. Garnish the mould with quartered pears, cooked in vanilla-flavoured syrup, kept rather firm and alternated by apricot jam.

Close the timbale with a layer of the same paste, well sealed down round the slightly-moistened edges, and cut a slit in the middle for the escape of steam. Cook in a good moderate oven for about forty minutes.

On taking the timbale out of the oven, turn it out on a dish, and accompany it with a maraschino-flavoured apricot sauce.

2543—BOURDALOUE TIMBALE

Prepare a dry paste, combined with four ounces of finely-chopped almonds per one lb. of flour.

With this paste line a buttered timbale mould, and garnish it with various stewed fruits, alternated by layers of frangipan cream. Cover with a layer of the same paste, and bake in a good moderate oven.

When the timbale is turned out, coat it with a vanilla-flavoured apricot syrup.

2544—MARIE-LOUISE TIMBALE

Take a stale Génoise cooked in a deep Charlotte mould; press the blade of a knife into it and cut it all round, leaving a base.

Remove the inside crumb in one piece which should resemble a large cork in shape. Cut this crumb into slices half-inch thick; coat each slice with Italian meringue, and, upon the latter, distribute a salpicon of peaches, cherries and pine-apple.

Coat the outside of the timbale with the same meringue, and decorate it; put the slices back inside, and set them one upon the other. Owing to the inserted garnish these slices naturally project above the sides of the timbale; surround them therefore with a border of poached peaches, separated by a bit of meringue.

Put the timbale in a mild oven to colour the meringue, and serve a Kirsch-flavoured peach sauce at the same time.

2545—MONTMORENCY TIMBALE

Cook a brioche in a mould of the required size. When it is quite cold, remove all the crumb from its inside, leaving a thickness of three-quarters of an inch on the bottom and sides. Coat all round, by means of a brush, with apricot jam cooked to the small-thread stage, and decorate with pieces of puff-paste in the shape of crescents, lozenges, roundels, etc., colourlessly baked in a moderate oven. When about to serve, pour in a garnish of stoned cherries, cooked in a thin syrup, thickened with raspberry-flavoured red-currant jelly.

2546—TIMBALE A LA PARISIENNE

Cook a brioche in a Charlotte-mould, and, when it is quite cold, remove the crumb from its inside as above. Coat the outside with apricot jam, and decorate with candied fruit. When about to serve, pour into it a garnish consisting of peeled and quartered pears, apples, peaches and apricots, cooked in vanilla-flavoured syrup; pine-apple cut into large dice, lozenges of angelica; half-almonds; and raisins, swelled in tepid water. Cohere this garnish with a Kirsch-flavoured apricot purée.

2547—TIMBALE A LA FAVART

Cook a brioche in a Richelieu-mould, and hollow it out and decorate it as above. The garnish of this timbale consists of only whole or halved fruit, and vanilla-flavoured chestnuts; and these are cohered with Kirsch-flavoured apricot syrup, combined with one quart of a purée of chestnut remains.

Pour the garnish into the timbale just before serving.

Hot Fruit Entremets.

2548—APRICOTS (Abricots)

Whether fresh or preserved, apricots used for sweets should always be peeled. When preserved apricots are used, it is well to cook them again before using them, for sometimes they are inclined to be too firm.

2549—APRICOTS A LA BOURDALOUE

Prepare a flawn-crust, and bake it without colouration. Garnish its bottom with a layer of thin frangipan cream, combined with crushed macaroons. Upon this cream set some half-apricots, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and cover them with a layer of the same cream.

Sprinkle the surface with crushed macaroons and melted butter and glaze quickly.

N.B.—The above is the usual procedure, but fruit “à la Bourdaloue” may also be prepared in the following ways: (1) Set the fruit in a shallow timbale, between two layers of cream, the upper one of which should be covered with gratin; (2) set the fruit in a border of rice or semolina, with the same coat of gratin upon the cream; (3) set the fruit in a border of Génoise, combined with apricots.

2550—APRICOTS A LA COLBERT

Poach some fine half-apricots in syrup, keeping them somewhat firm.

Drain them; dry them, and garnish their hollows with “rice for entremets” (No. 2404) in suchwise as to reconstruct the fruit. Treat them à l’anglaise, with very fine bread-crumbs; fry just before dishing, and drain. Stick a small stalk of angelica into each apricot, in imitation of the stems, and dish them on a napkin.

Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.

2551—APRICOTS A LA CONDÉ

On a round dish prepare a border of vanilla-flavoured, sweet rice, either by means of a knife, or by means of an even, buttered, border-mould.

Upon this border set some apricots poached in syrup; decorate with candied fruit, and coat with a Kirsch-flavoured apricot syrup.

2552—APRICOTS A LA CONDÉ

Set a crown of small Génoise roundels on a dish; on each roundel set a fine poached half-apricot (convex side undermost), and set a half-sugared cherry in the hollow of each half-apricot. In the middle of the crown arrange a pyramid of rice croquettes, the size and shape of apricots.

Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.

2553—APRICOTS A LA CUSSY

Garnish the flat side of some macaroons with a layer of smooth fruit salpicon, cohered with an apricot purée; set a fine poached half-apricot on each macaroon, coat with Italian meringue; dish in the form of a crown, and place the dish in a moderate oven for a few minutes to dry, but not to colour, the meringue.

Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.

2554—ABRICOTS GRATINÉS

Spread an even layer, one inch thick, of stiff stewed apples or stewed semolina (prepared like rice for entremets) on a dish. Set thereon some fine half-apricots poached in syrup; entirely cover the latter with a somewhat thin preparation of “Pralin à Condé,” sprinkle with icing sugar, and set the dish in the oven to slightly colour the pralin.

2555—ABRICOTS MERINGUÉS

Spread a layer of vanilla-flavoured sweet rice on a dish, and set some poached half-apricots thereon. Cover with ordinary meringue; shaping the latter like a dome or a Charlotte; decorate with the same meringue; sprinkle with icing sugar, and place the dish in the oven in order to slightly cook the meringue.

On withdrawing the dish from the oven, garnish the decorative portions alternately with apricot and red-currant jam.

2556—ABRICOTS MERINGUÉS (Another Method)

Prepare a colourlessly-baked deep flawn-crust. Garnish the bottom either with a layer of frangipan cream or with vanilla-flavoured semolina, or sweet rice. Set on this some poached half-apricots; cover with meringue, smooth the latter on top and all round with the blade of a knife, and decorate with meringue by means of a piping-bag fitted with a small even pipe. For the rest of the procedure follow the preceding recipe.

2557—APRICOTS A LA SULTANE

Prepare a Génoise, cooked in a somewhat deep border-mould, and stick it by means of some apricot, cooked to the small-thread stage, to a base of dry paste of the same size. Coat it all round with ordinary meringue; decorate it with a piping-bag fitted with a small even pipe, and brown it in a moderate oven.

Then garnish the inside of the border with a preparation of vanilla-flavoured rice, combined with a little frangipan cream and some splintered pistachios; taking care to keep the preparation sufficiently stiff to be able to shape it like a dome. Upon the rice set some fine half-apricots, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and sprinkle these with chopped pistachios.

As an accompaniment serve a syrup prepared with almond milk, and finished with a piece of butter as big as a hazel-nut.

Pine-apple (Ananas).

2558—PINE-APPLE A LA FAVORITE

See No. 2429.

2559—PINE-APPLE A LA CONDÉ

Macerate in sugar and Kirsch some half-slices of pine-apple. Dish them in a circle upon a border of rice, prepared as directed under No. 2551; decorate with half-sugared cherries and lozenges of angelica, and coat with a Kirsch-flavoured apricot syrup.

2560—PINE-APPLE A LA CRÉOLE

Cook a pine-apple in a Kirsch-flavoured syrup; cut it vertically in two, and cut each half into vertical, thin and regular slices.

Line a dome-mould with these slices, and fill it up with vanilla-flavoured rice; leaving a hollow in the middle. Garnish this hollow with the pine-apple parings, cut into dice, and custard apples and bananas, likewise cut into dice and cooked in syrup.

Turn out upon a round dish; decorate the top with large leaves of angelica, and surround the base with bananas poached in Kirsch-flavoured syrup.

Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot syrup separately.

Bananas (Bananes).

2561—BANANAS A LA BOURDALOUE

Peel the bananas and poach them gently in a vanilla-flavoured syrup. For the rest of the operation, proceed as directed under No. 2549.

2562—BANANAS A LA CONDÉ

Poach the bananas in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and then treat them as directed under No. 2551.

2563—BANANAS MERINGUÉES

Poach the bananas in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and then treat them as directed under the apricot recipes (Nos. 2555 and 2556); leaving them either whole or cutting them into roundels.

2564—BANANAS A LA NORVEGIENNE

Cut a slice of the peel from each banana, and remove the pulp from their insides. Fill the emptied peels, three parts full, with banana ice, and quickly cover the latter by means of a piping-bag fitted with a small grooved pipe, with an Italian meringue flavoured with rum.

Lay the prepared bananas on a dish; set the latter on a tray containing broken ice, and place the tray in a sufficiently hot oven to ensure the speedy browning of the meringue.

2565—SOUFFLÉD

Cut off a quarter of each banana, and withdraw the pulp from their insides without bursting the peel. Rub this pulp through a sieve; add it to a cream soufflé-preparation; finish the latter with the necessary quantity of egg-whites, and fill the emptied peels with it.

Set the filled peels in a star on a dish, and put the latter in the oven for six minutes.

Cherries (Cerises).

2566—JUBILEE CHERRIES

Stone some fine cherries; poach them in syrup, and set them in small silver timbales. Reduce the syrup and thicken it with a little arrowroot, diluted with cold water; allowing one table-spoonful of arrowroot per half-pint of syrup. Cover the cherries with the thickened syrup; pour a coffee-spoonful of heated Kirsch into each timbale, and set a light to each when serving.

2567—CHERRIES A LA VALERIA

Prepare some tartlet crusts for sugared paste. Garnish the bottom of each with red-currant ice, combined with cream, and cover the latter with vanilla-flavoured, Italian meringue, laid on by means of a piping-bag. Upon this meringue set the stoned cherries, poached in sugared Bordeaux wine, and arrange the tartlets on a dish.

Lay the dish on a tray containing broken ice, and set the tray in the oven in order to dry the meringue. On withdrawing the dish from the oven, quickly coat the cherries with red-currant syrup; sprinkle the latter with chopped pistachios, and dish the tartlets on a napkin.

2568—MERINGUED CHERRY FLAWN

Line a buttered flawn-ring with fine paste: prick the bottom; garnish with stoned cherries after the manner of an ordinary flawn, and fill up with custard (No. 2397). Cook in the usual way.

On taking the flawn out of the oven, remove the ring, and finish the former like an ordinary meringue-coated flawn.

N.B.—All fruits used in the preparation of ordinary flawns may be similarly prepared for meringue-coated flawns. Only such fruits as strawberries and grapes, which are not cooked with the crust, are unsuited to this kind of preparation.

2569—NECTARINES

Nectarines may be prepared after all the recipes given for peaches. I shall not, therefore, give any recipes which are proper to them. See peaches.

Oranges and Tangerines (Oranges et Mandarines).

2570—ORANGES A LA NORVEGIENNE

Cut a slice of peel from the top of each of the oranges, and empty them by means of a spoon. Three-parts fill the emptied peels with orange or tangerine ice, in accordance with the fruit under treatment, and cover the ice with Italian meringue, by means of a piping-bag.

Set the dish containing the garnished peels on a tray covered with broken ice, and quickly colour the meringue at the salamander.

2571—TANGERINES A LA PALIKARE

Cut the tangerines at the top and remove the sections without bursting the peel. Skin the sections raw. Fill the peels with rice for entremets, containing a little saffron; mould some of the same rice in a little dome-mould, and set it upon a carved cushion.

Cover this dome with the tangerine sections; coat the latter with some apricot syrup; and, all round, arrange the rice-garnished peels, opened side undermost.

2572—ORANGE OR TANGERINE SOUFFLÉ RIGHI

Without splitting them, empty the orange or tangerine peels.

Half-fill them with orange or tangerine ice, according to the fruit under treatment, and cover the ice with orange- or tangerine-flavoured soufflé-preparation. Place the dish containing the garnished peels upon a tray covered with broken ice; set in the oven that the soufflé may cook quickly, and allow two minutes for tangerines and four minutes for oranges.

Peaches (Pêches).

2573—PÊCHES A LA BOURDALOUE

Poach the peaches (cut into two) in some vanilla-flavoured syrup, and then proceed exactly as for No. 2549.

2574—PÊCHES A LA CONDÉ

Nos. 2551 and 2552 maybe applied in every respect to peaches.

2575—PÊCHES A LA CUSSY

Proceed exactly as for No. 2553.

2576—PÊCHES FLAMBÉES

These may be prepared in two ways as follows:—

(1) Poach the peaches whole in a Kirsch-flavoured syrup, and set them each in a small timbale. Thicken the syrup slightly with arrowroot, and pour it over the peaches. Add some heated Kirsch, and set it alight when serving.

(2) Poach the peaches as above, and set them on a fresh-strawberry purée. Sprinkle the whole with heated Kirsch, and set it alight at the last moment.

2577—PÊCHES GRATINÉES

Proceed exactly as for No. 2554.

2578—PÊCHES MERINGUÉES

Prepare a colourlessly-baked, flawn crust; garnish the bottom of it with frangipan cream prepared with pralin, and upon this cream set whole or halved, poached peaches. Cover with meringue and finish as explained under No. 2555.

2579—PÊCHES MAINTENON

Take some biscuit, baked in a dome-mould and completely cooled. Cut it transversely into slices, and coat each of the latter with frangipan cream, combined with a salpicon of candied fruit and chopped, grilled almonds.

Join the slices together in suchwise as to reconstruct the biscuit, and cover the latter with Italian meringue. Decorate by means of the piping-bag, and dry in the oven.

Surround the biscuit with a border of fine half-peaches poached in a vanilla-flavoured syrup.

2580—PÊCHES A LA VANILLE

Poach the halved or whole peaches in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and set them in a timbale. Cover them to within half their height with the syrup used in poaching, thickened with arrowroot slightly tinted with pink, and combined with vanilla cream.

Pears (Poires).

2581—POIRES A LA BOURDALOUE

If the pears be of medium size, halve them; if they are large, quarter them. Carefully trim the sections. Cook the pears in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and for the rest of the operation follow No. 2549.

The remarks appended to No. 2549 apply equally to pears and to all fruit prepared according to the particular recipe referred to.

2582—POIRES A LA CONDÉ

Very small pears turned with great care are admirably suited to this entremet. If they are of medium size, halve them. Cook them in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and dish them on a border of rice as directed under No. 2551.

2583—POIRES A L’IMPÉRATRICE

Quarter and properly trim the pears, and cook them in vanilla-flavoured syrup. Dish them in a shallow timbale between two layers of vanilla-flavoured rice for entremets, combined with a little frangipan cream.

Sprinkle the upper layer with crushed macaroons and melted butter, and set the gratin to form.

2584—POIRES A LA PARISIENNE

Bake a Génoise base in a flawn-ring, and, when it is almost cold, saturate it with Kirsch-flavoured syrup.

In the middle of this base set a little dome of vanilla-flavoured rice, and surround it with pears, cooked in syrup and set upright. Border them with a thread of ordinary meringue, squeezed from a piping-bag, fitted with a fair-sized, grooved pipe; by the same means make a fine rosette of meringue on top of the dome, and bake this meringue in a mild oven.

On taking the dish out of the oven, glaze the pears with a brush dipped in rather stiff apricot-syrup, and surround them with a border of half-sugared cherries.

2585—POIRES A LA SULTANE

Halve or quarter the pears; trim them well, and cook them in a vanilla-flavoured syrup.

For the rest of the operation follow No. 2557.

2586—POIRES A LA RÉGENCE

Turn the pears; cook them whole in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and let them cool in the syrup. When they are cold cut them in two lengthwise, slightly hollow out the inside of each half; garnish the hollow with rice for entremets, combined with a quarter of its weight of frangipan cream and a fine salpicon of candied fruit, macerated in Kirsch.

Join the two halves of each pear, and treat them à l’anglaise with very fine bread-crumbs.

Fry them at the last moment, and, on taking them out of the fat, stick an angelica stalk into each. Dish them on a napkin, and serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.

2587—TIMBALE DE POIRES A LA VALENCIENNES

Two-thirds garnish a buttered Charlotte-mould with Savarin paste. Let the paste rise by fermentation; bake it, and let it cool.

Remove the top which acts as a cover, and put it aside; then remove all the crumb from the inside, leaving only the outside crust, and smear the latter with apricot syrup. Decorate

Treat the cover with apricot syrup and decorate it in the same way. Quarter some “Duchesse,” “Beurre

Serve the timbale with this preparation; put its cover on, and set it on a warm dish.

Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.

Apples (Pommes).

2588—APPLE FRITTERS

Take some russet apples, which are the best for the purpose, and make a hole through their centres with a tube three-quarters of an inch in diameter, to remove the core and the pips. Peel them and cut them into roundels one-third of an inch thick, and macerate them for twenty minutes in powdered sugar and brandy or rum.

A few minutes before serving, dry them slightly; dip the roundels into thin batter, and plunge them into plenty of hot fat. Drain them, set them on a tray, sprinkle them with icing sugar, glaze them quickly, and dish them on a napkin.

2589—APPLES WITH BUTTER

Core some gray Calville or russet apples by means of the tube-cutter; peel them and parboil them for two minutes in boiling water, containing a little lemon juice. Then set them in a buttered sautépan; add a few tablespoonfuls of vanilla-flavoured syrup, and cook them under cover in the oven. Dish them on little, round, brioche croûtons, glazed in the oven, and fill the hollow with butter worked with an equal weight of powdered sugar, and mixed with a little brandy.

Cover the apples with their own syrup, slightly thickened with apricot purée.

2590—POMMES A LA BONNE-FEMME

Core some russet apples with the tube-cutter, and slightly cut them all round.

Dish them, fill the hollow of each with butter and powdered sugar mixed; pour a little water into the dish, and gently cook the apples in the oven.

Serve these apples as they stand.

2591—POMMES A LA BOURDALOUE

Quarter, peel and trim the apples, and cook them in vanilla-flavoured syrup, keeping them somewhat firm. Proceed for the rest of the operation as directed under No. 2549.

2592—POMMES EN CHARLOTTE

See No. 2436.

2593—POMMES A LA CHÂTELAINE

Take some medium-sized apples, and prepare them like those of No. 2590. Set them on a buttered dish; fill the hollow in each with a salpicon of half-sugared cherries, cohered with apricot purée; cover with thin, frangipan cream; sprinkle with crushed biscuits and macaroons and melted butter, and set the gratin to form in a fierce oven.

2594—POMMES A LA CHEVREUSE

On a dish, set a cushion of a preparation for semolina croquettes. All round arrange a close border of quartered apples cooked in vanilla-flavoured syrup; garnish the centre with a salpicon of candied fruit and raisins, cohered with an apricot purée, and cover with a thin coat of semolina.

Cover the whole with ordinary meringue, shaped like a dome; sprinkle some chopped pistachios upon the latter; dredge with icing sugar, and set to brown in a mild oven.

On taking the dish out of the oven deck the top of the dome, with a rosette of elongated angelica lozenges; place a small apple, cooked in pink syrup, in the middle of the rosette, and surround the base of the entremet with a circle of alternated white and pink, quartered apples.

2595—POMMES A LA CONDÉ

Poach some fine, peeled and trimmed apples in vanilla-flavoured syrup. Dish them on a border of rice, decorated with cherries and angelica, as explained under No. 2551.

2596—POMMES GRATINÉES

Set the quartered apples, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, upon a base of minced apples prepared as for a Charlotte and kept somewhat stiff. Cover with fairly thin pralin à Condé; sprinkle with icing sugar, and place the dish in a mild oven, that the pralin may dry and colour slightly.

2597—POMMES MERINGUÉES

Set the quartered apples, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, upon a base of rice for croquettes, or of a mince as for a Charlotte. Cover with ordinary meringue, and smooth the latter, giving it the shape of a dome or a Charlotte; decorate with the same meringue; sprinkle with icing sugar, and bake and brown in a mild oven.

2598—POMMES A LA MOSCOVITE

Take some well-shaped apples, uniform in size; trim to within two-thirds of their height, and withdraw the pulp from their insides in suchwise as to make them resemble a kind of cases.

Poach these cases in a thin syrup, keeping the pulp somewhat firm; drain them well, and set them on a dish.

Garnish them, one-third full, with a purée made from the withdrawn pulp, and fill them up with a Kümmel-flavoured, apple-soufflé preparation.

Cook in a mild oven for twenty minutes.

2599—POMMES A LA PARISIENNE

Proceed exactly as for No. 2584.

2600—POMMES A LA PORTUGAISE

Make cases of the apples as under No. 2598, and poach them in the same way, keeping them somewhat firm.

Garnish them with stiff frangipan cream, combined with grated orange rind, crushed macaroons, and currants and sultanas (both washed and swelled in a Curaçao-flavoured

Dish these garnished apples on a base of semolina-croquette preparation, and set them in the oven for ten minutes. On taking them out of the oven, coat their surface with melted red-currant jelly, combined with a fine julienne of well-parboiled orange-zest.

2601—RABOTTE DE POMMES OU DOUILLON NORMAN

Prepare the apples like those “à la Bonne-femme,” and enclose each in a layer of fine, short paste. Cover each rabotte with an indented roundel of the same paste; gild; streak, and bake in a hot oven for fifteen minutes.

2602—POMMES IRÈNE

Select some nice apples; peel them, and cook them in syrup, keeping them somewhat firm. When they are cold, carefully withdraw their pulp, that they may form a sort of cases.

Rub the pulp through a sieve, sugar it with vanilla sugar, and spread a layer of it on the bottom of each apple. Fill up the apple-cases with vanilla ice, combined with a purée of cooked plums; the proportions being one-third of the latter to one of the former.

Cover this ice with Kirsch-flavoured Italian meringue; set the latter to colour quickly, and serve instantly.

2603—FLAN DE POMMES CHAUD NINON

Prepare a colourlessly-baked flawn crust. Garnish it with apples stewed as for a Charlotte, and shape these in the form of a dome. Upon these stewed apples set pink and white quartered apples, alternating the latter regularly; and, by means of a brush delicately coat these quarters of apple with some reduced white syrup.

2604—FLAN DE POMMES A LA BATELIERE

Line a flawn-ring with some short paste, and garnish it with apples, stewed as for a Charlotte.

Cover the apples with a dome of somewhat creamy rice for entremets, combined with the whites of four eggs (beaten to a stiff froth) per lb. of cooked rice.

Bake the flawn in the usual way, and, on taking it out of the oven, sprinkle it copiously with icing sugar, and glaze with a red-hot iron.

Various Hot Entremets.

2605—MINCE PIES

Constituents.—One lb. of chopped suet; one and one-third lbs. of cold, cooked fillet of beef, cut into very small dice; one lb. of pipped raisins; one lb. of currants and an equal quantity of sultanas; one lb. of candied rinds; half lb. of peeled and chopped raw apples; the chopped zest and the juice of an orange; two-thirds oz. of allspice; one-sixth pint of brandy; and the same measure of Madeira and rum.

Thoroughly mix the whole; pour it into an earthenware jar; cover the latter, and let the preparation macerate for a month.

Preparation.—Line some deep, buttered tartlet moulds with ordinary short paste; garnish them with the above preparation; cover with a thin layer of puff-paste, having a hole in its centre; seal down this layer, gild, and bake in a hot oven.

2606—CÉLESTINE

Make an omelet from two eggs, and garnish it either with cream, stewed fruit or jam. Make a somewhat larger omelet, and stuff it with a different garnish from the one already used; enclose the first omelet in the second, and roll the latter up in the usual way. Sprinkle with icing sugar, and glaze in the oven or with a red-hot iron.

2607—EGGS A LA RELIGIEUSE

Bake a somewhat deep flawn-crust without colouration, and have it of a size in proportion to the number of eggs it has to contain. Coat it inside with a layer of pralin, and dry the latter well in a mild oven.

Meanwhile poach the required number of fresh eggs in boiling milk, sugared to the extent of a quarter lb. per quart, and keep them somewhat soft. Drain them, and set them in the crust. Between each egg place a small slice of pine-apple, cut to the shape of a cock’s comb. Thicken the poaching-milk with five eggs and six egg-yolks per quart; pass it through a strainer: pour the preparation over the eggs, and put the flawn in a mild oven, that the cream may be poached and slightly coloured.

2608—PAIN PERDU OR GILDED CRUST

Cut some slices one-half inch thick from a brioche or a stale loaf and dip them in cold sugared and vanilla-flavoured milk. Drain the slices; dip them in some slightly-sugared beaten eggs, and place them in a frying-pan containing some very hot clarified butter. Brown them on both sides; drain them; sprinkle them with vanilla sugar, and dish them on a napkin.

2609—FRUIT SUPRÊME A LA GABRIELLE

Prepare (1) a border of apples, stewed as for a Charlotte, thickened with eggs, and poached in a buttered and ornamented border mould.

(2) A macédoine of fruit, the quantity of which should be in proportion to the capacity of the mould and consisting of quartered pears, cooked in syrup; pine-apple, cut into large lozenges; half-sugared cherries; angelica, stamped into leaf-shapes by means of the fancy-cutter; and currants and sultanas, swelled in syrup. Set all these fruits in a sautépan.

To every pint of the pear-syrup add one lb. of sugar, and cook the mixture to the small-ball stage. This done, reduce it by adding one-sixth pint of very thick almond milk; pour this over the fruit, and simmer very gently for ten minutes. Turn out the border of apples, poached in a bain-marie, upon a dish, and surround it with a border of candied cherries. Complete the macédoine away from the fire with a little very best butter; pour it into the border, and sprinkle on it some peeled and finely-splintered almonds.

2610—SCHALETH A LA JUIVE

Line a greased iron saucepan, or a large mould for “Pommes Anna,” with a thin layer of ordinary noodle paste, and fill it up with the following preparation:—For a utensil large enough to hold one and a half quarts:—one and three quarter lbs. of stiffly stewed russet apples; one and a quarter lbs. in all of pipped Malaga raisins, currants, and sultanas (swelled in tepid water) in equal quantities; the finely chopped half-zests of an orange and a lemon; a mite of grated nutmeg; four oz. powdered sugar; four whole eggs and the yolks of six; and a quarter of a pint of Malaga wine. Mix the whole well, in advance.

Cover with a layer of noodle paste; seal the latter well down round the edges; gild, and make a slit in the top for the escape of steam. Bake it in a moderate oven for fifty minutes, and let it rest ten minutes before turning it out.

2611—ENGLISH TARTS

These tarts are made in deep pie or pastry-dishes. Whatever be the fruit used, clean it, peel it, or core it, according to its nature. Some fruits are sliced while others are merely quartered or left whole.

Set them in the dish, to within half inch of its brim; sprinkle them with moist or powdered sugar, and (in the case of fruit with firm pulps like apples) with a few tablespoonfuls of water.

This addition of water is optional and, in any case, may be dispensed with for aqueous fruits. First cover the edges of the dish, which should be moistened slightly, with a strip of short paste, an inch wide. Then cover the dish with a layer of puff-paste, which seal down well to the strip of paste, already in position and slightly moistened for the purpose. With a brush moisten the layer of paste constituting the cover of the tart; sprinkle it with sugar, and set the tart to bake in a moderate oven.

All English tarts are made in this way, and all fruits may be used with them even when, as in the case of gooseberries, they are green.

Accompany these tarts by a sauceboat of raw-cream or by a custard pudding (No. 2406).

Cold Sweets

2612—SAUCES AND ACCOMPANIMENTS OF COLD SWEETS

Cold sweets allow of the following sauces:—

(1) English Custard (2397), flavoured according to fancy.

(2) Syrups of apricot, of mirabelle plums, of greengages, of red-currant, &c., the particular flavour of which should always be intensified by the addition of a liqueur in keeping with the fruit forming the base of the syrup. Kirsch and Maraschino are admirably suited to this purpose.

(3) Purées of fresh fruit, such as strawberries, raspberries, red-currants, etc., combined with a little powdered sugar, and used plain or mixed with a little whipped cream.

(4) Chantilly Cream, flavoured as fancy may suggest.

Finally, certain entremets allow of the following sauce:—

2613—CHERRY SAUCE

Gently melt one lb. of raspberry-flavoured red-currant jelly. Pour it into a cold basin, and add to it an equal quantity of freshly-prepared cherry juice, the juice of two blood-oranges, a little powdered ginger, and a few drops of carmine; the latter with the view of giving the preparation a sufficiently strong and distinctive colour. Finally add a quarter of a lb. of half-sugared cherries, softened in a tepid, Kirsch-flavoured syrup.

Bavarois.

These are of two kinds:—

(1) Bavarois with cream, and (2) Bavarois with fruit.

2614—CREAM BAVAROIS

Preparation: Work one lb. of castor sugar with fourteen egg-yolks in a saucepan, dilute with a pint and a half of boiled milk, in which a stick of vanilla has previously been infused, and two-thirds of an oz. of gelatine dipped in cold water.

Put the preparation on a mild fire until it properly veneers the withdrawn spoon, and do not let it boil. Pass it through the strainer into an enamelled basin; let it cool, stirring it from time to time; and, when it begins to thicken, add one and a half pints of whipped cream, three oz. of powdered sugar, and two-thirds oz. of vanilla sugar.

2615—BAVAROIS AUX FRUITS

Constituents.—One pint of fruit purée, diluted with one pint of syrup at 30° (saccharom.). Add the juice of three lemons, one oz. of dissolved gelatine, strained through linen, and one pint of whipped cream. The preparation for fruit Bavarois may be combined with fruit of the same nature as that used for the purée; and this fruit may be added raw in the case of strawberries, raspberries, red-currants, etc., and poached in the case of pulpy fruits, such as pears, peaches, apricots, etc.

2616—THE MOULDING AND DISHING OF BAVAROIS

Bavarois are generally moulded in fancy moulds fitted with a central tube, slightly greased with sweet almond oil. When they are greased they are incrusted in broken ice after the preparation has been covered with a round sheet of white paper.

When about to serve, the mould is quickly plunged into tepid water, wiped, and turned out upon a dish, which may or may not be covered with a folded napkin.

Instead of oiling the moulds they may be covered with a thin coat of sugar cooked to the caramel stage, which besides making the Bavarois sightly, also gives it an excellent taste. Another very advisable method is that of serving the Bavarois in a deep silver timbale or dish, surrounded with ice. In this case, the entremet not having to be turned out, the preparation does not need to be so cohesive, and is therefore much more delicate.

When the Bavarois is served after this last method it is sometimes accompanied by stewed fruit or a Macédoine of fresh fruit; though, in reality, these fruit adjuncts are better suited to cold puddings, which, in some points, are not unlike Bavarois.

Finally, when the Bavarois is moulded, it may be decorated, just before being served, with Chantilly cream laid on by means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe.

2617—BAVAROIS CLERMONT

Take some vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation combined with three oz. of candied chestnut purée and three oz. of candied chestnuts, broken into small pieces, per pint of the preparation.

Having turned out the Bavarois, surround it with a crown of fine candied chestnuts.

2618—BAVAROIS DIPLOMATE

Clothe a timbale mould with a layer of vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation. Fill it with chocolate and strawberry Bavarois preparations, spread in alternate and regular layers.

2619—BAVAROIS MY QUEEN

Clothe a Bavarois mould with a preparation of slightly-sugared raw cream, combined with dissolved gelatine. Then fill up the mould with a Bavarois preparation, made from strawberry purée and combined with large strawberries, macerated in Kirsch. When the entremet is turned out surround it with a border of large strawberries, also macerated in sugar and Kirsch.

2620—BAVAROIS A LA RELIGIEUSE

Clothe a mould with some chocolate dissolved in a syrup containing a somewhat large proportion of gelatine. Garnish the inside of the mould with a vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation, made from plain instead of whipped cream.

2621—BAVAROIS RUBANNÉ

This kind of Bavarois is made from differently-coloured and differently-flavoured preparations, spread in alternate layers in the mould.

It is therefore governed by no hard and fast rules, and every kind of Bavarois preparation may be used.

2622—VARIOUS CREAM BAVAROIS

Almond, anisette, filbert, coffee, chocolate, Kirsch, fresh walnut, orange, and violet Bavarois, &c., may be prepared after No. 2614; the flavour alone undergoing any change.

2623—VARIOUS FRUIT BAVAROIS

After the generic recipe, Bavarois may be prepared from pine-apple, apricots, strawberries, raspberries, melon, etc.

2624—BLANC-MANGE

Blanc-mange is scarcely ever served nowadays, and this is a pity; seeing that, when it is well prepared, it is one of the best entremets that can be set before a diner. Blanc-mange, as it is prepared in England, is quite different from that generally served; but it is nevertheless an excellent and very wholesome entremet, and that is why I have given its recipe below.

As a matter of fact, in order to justify its name, blanc-mange ought always to be beautifully white; but, for a long time since, the compound word has lost its original meaning. The adjective and noun composing it have fused one with the other to form a single generic title, which may now be applied with equal propriety to both coloured and white preparations; and the verbal error is so old, dating as it does from pre-Carême times, that it would be futile to try and correct it.

2625—FRENCH BLANC-MANGE

Preparation.—Skin one lb. of sweet almonds and four or five bitter almonds, and soak them well in fresh water that they may be quite white.

Pound them as finely as possible; adding to them the while (in spoonfuls at a time) one pint of water. Strain the whole through a strong towel, twisting the latter tightly; melt one lb. of loaf-sugar in the resulting milk (about one and half pints); add a bare oz. of gelatine dissolved in tepid syrup; strain the whole through muslin, and flavour according to taste.

Moulding:—Mould the blanc-mange in oiled moulds fitted with centre-tubes as for Bavarois. Incrust them in ice that their contents may set, and proceed for the turning-out as already directed.

N.B.—For the preparation of almond milk, modern Cookery has substituted for the procedure given above, which is antiquated, another which consists in pounding the almonds with only a few table-spoonfuls of water and some very thin cream.

2626—BLANC-MANGE WITH FRUIT AND LIQUEURS

All fruits, reduced to purées, may serve in the preparation of blanc-manges, and the apportionment of the ingredients should be as follows:—the purée of the selected fruit and the preparation given above (including the same amount of gelatine) should be mixed in equal quantities.

These blanc-manges take the name of the fruit with which they are prepared, i.e.: strawberries, raspberries, apricots, peaches, etc. They may also be prepared with liqueurs, which should be in the proportion of one liqueur glassful to one quart of the preparation. The best liqueurs for the purpose are Kirsch, Maraschino and Rum.

Blanc-manges are also made from chocolate and coffee, although the flavour of the latter does not blend so well with that of almonds as do the other products.

2627—BLANC-MANGES “RUBANNÉS

Prepare these as directed under No. 2621, spreading the differently flavoured and coloured blanc-mange preparations in alternate even and regular layers.

N.B.—Blanc-mange preparations may also be dished in silver timbales, in good china cases, or in deep dishes. By this means, to the great improvement of the preparation, the gelatine may be reduced to a minimum quantity, just enough to ensure the setting of the blanc-mange and no more. And the thing is quite possible inasmuch as there is no question of turning out the entremet.

In his book “The Parisian Cook,” Carême recommends the addition to the Blanc-mange of a quarter of its volume of very fresh, good cream; and the advice, coming as it does from such an authoritative source, is worth following.

2628—ENGLISH BLANC-MANGE

Boil one quart of milk, containing four oz. of sugar, and pour it over a quarter of a lb. of corn-flour diluted with half a pint of cold milk; stirring briskly the while.

Smooth the preparation with the whisk, and cook it over an open fire for a few minutes, without ceasing to stir.

On taking it off the fire, flavour it according to taste; and pour it, very hot, into moulds previously moistened with syrup, that the mouldings may turn out glossy and smooth.

Let the contents of the moulds set; turn them out, and serve them very cold either plain or with an accompaniment of stewed fruit.

Charlottes.

2629—CHARLOTTE A L’ARLEQUINE

Line the bottom of a Charlotte mould with a round piece of paper, and garnish the sides with upright pieces of Génoise, glazed white, pink and pale-green; alternating the colours and pressing the uprights snugly one against the other. Meanwhile, take some strawberry, chocolate, pistachio and apricot Bavarois preparations, and let them set in flawn-rings, lying on pieces of oiled paper.

Cut the Bavarois preparations into large dice, and mix them with an ordinary, and somewhat liquid, cream Bavarois preparation. Pour the whole into the mould, and leave to cool. When about to serve, turn out the Charlotte; remove the piece of paper and replace it by a thin Génoise top, glazed with “fondant” and decorated with candied fruit.

2630—CHARLOTTE CARMEN

Line the Charlotte with gaufrettes, and garnish it with the following preparation:—eight oz. of stewed tomatoes; four oz. of stewed red-capsicums, a pinch of powdered ginger, three oz. of candied ginger cut into dice, the juice of three lemons, half a pint of hot syrup at 32° (saccharom.), and five dissolved gelatine leaves.

Mix up the whole, and, when the preparation begins to thicken, add to it one and three-quarter pints of whisked cream.

2631—CHARLOTTE A LA CHANTILLY

Prepare the Charlotte with gaufrettes, stuck directly upon a round base of dry paste, either with apricot jam cooked to the small-thread stage or with sugar cooked to the small-crack stage. As a help, a Charlotte mould may be used for this operation; it may be laid on the dry-paste base and removed when the gaufrettes are all stuck.

Garnish with whisked, sugared and vanilla-flavoured cream built up in pyramid-form, and decorate its surface, by means of a spoon, with the same cream, slightly tinted with pink.

2632—BAQUET ET PANIER A LA CHANTILLY

A “Baquet” (bucket) is made with lady’s-finger biscuits, well trimmed and stuck upon a base of dry paste with sugar cooked to the large-crack stage.

In the middle, and on either side of the baquet, set a biscuit, somewhat higher than the rest, with a hole in its top end, cut by means of a small round cutter; and surround the baquet with small threads of chocolate-flavoured almond paste, in imitation of iron hoops.

The “Panier” (basket) is made in the same way, but with biscuits all of the same size, and without the imitation iron-hoops. On the base and by means of sugar cooked to the large-crack stage, fix a handle of pulled sugar, decked with sugar flowers.

The baquet and the panier are garnished with the same cream as the Chantilly Charlotte, and are finished in the same way, with a decoration of pink-tinted cream.

2633—CHARLOTTE MONTREUIL

Line the bottom and sides of the mould with lady’s-finger biscuits. Garnish with a Bavarois

Add some very ripe, sliced and sugared peaches, on putting the preparation into the mould.

2634—OPERA CHARLOTTE

Line a mould with Huntley and Palmer’s sugar wafers and garnish it with a vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation, combined with one-quarter of its bulk of a smooth purée of candied chestnuts, and a salpicon of candied fruit, macerated in Maraschino.

2635—CHARLOTTE PLOMBIÈRE

Line the Charlotte with lady’s-finger biscuits or with gaufrettes. When about to serve, garnish it with a Plombière ice (No. 2795) and turn it out upon a napkin.

2636—CHARLOTTE RENAISSANCE

Line the bottom of the mould with a round piece of white paper, and the sides with rectangles of Génoise, glazed white and pink. Set the glazed sides of the rectangles against the mould.

Fill the mould, thus lined, with a vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation, combined with raw peeled and sliced apricots and peaches, pine-apple cut into dice, and wild strawberries, all these fruits having been previously macerated in Kirsch. Let the preparation set in the cool or on ice.

When the Charlotte is turned out, remove the round piece of paper, and in its place lay a slice of pine-apple, cut from the thickest part of the fruit and decorated with candied fruit.

2637—CHARLOTTE RUSSE

Make a rosette on the bottom of the mould with some heart-shaped lady’s-finger biscuits, and line the sides with the same biscuits trimmed, set upright and close together.

This Charlotte may be garnished with a vanilla-, pralin-, coffee-, orange- or chocolate-flavoured cream Bavarois preparation; or a Bavarois preparation made from a purée of such fruits as apricots, pine-apple, bananas, peaches, strawberries, etc.

The flavour or product which determines the character of the Charlotte should always be referred to on the menu, thus: Charlotte Russe à l’Orange or Charlotte Russe aux Fraises, etc.

2638—CREAMS

Cold creams, served as entremets, belong to two very distinct classes:

(1) Cooked Creams, which are, in short, but a variety of custard.

(2) The Creams derived from natural, fresh cream, whipped and sugared, the generic type of which is Chantilly cream.

Cooked Creams are prepared either in special little pots, in small silver or porcelain bowls, or in moulds. Those prepared in moulds are turned out when they are quite cold, and are called “Crèmes renversées” to distinguish them from the first two kinds which are always served in the utensil in which they have cooked.

For all that, the term “Crème renversée” has grown somewhat obsolete, and the modern expression for this kind of custards is “Crème moulée.”

Crème au Caramel represents a perfect type of this class.

The custards served in their cooking-receptacles are more delicate than the others, because their preparation does not demand such a large quantity of eggs; but they are only served in the home, like English custard. For a stylish luncheon or dinner, moulded custards (Fr. crèmes moulées) are best.

2639—CRÈME A LA VANILLE, MOULÉE

Boil one quart of milk containing one-half lb. of sugar; add a stick of vanilla, and let the latter infuse for twenty minutes. Pour this milk, little by little, over three eggs and eight yolks, previously whisked in a basin, and whisk briskly the while. Pass the whole through a fine sieve; let it rest for a moment or two; then completely remove all the froth lying on its surface, and pour the preparation into buttered moulds or into vases specially made for this purpose. Set to poach in a bain-marie, in a moderate oven, keeping lids on the utensils.

Not for one moment must the water in the bain-marie boil while the poaching is in progress; for the air contained by the preparation would then become over-heated, and the result would be an infinity of small holes throughout the depth of the custard, which would greatly mar its appearance.

As a matter of fact, the custard should poach, that is to say, coagulate, as the result of the surrounding water being kept at a constant temperature of 185° F. As soon as it is poached, let the custard cool.

When it is poached in the utensils in which it is served, one egg and eight yolks per quart of milk will be found sufficient. The utensils should be carefully wiped and dished on a napkin.

If the custard is to be turned out, carefully overturn the mould upon a dish, and pull it off a few minutes later. Moulded and potted custards admit of all the flavourings proper to entremets; but those which suit them best are vanilla, almond milk, almond and filbert pralin, coffee, chocolate, etc. Unless used in the form of very concentrated essences, fruit flavours are less suited to them.

2640—CRÈME AU CARAMEL

Clothe the bottom and sides of a mould with sugar cooked to the golden-caramel stage, and fill it up with a vanilla-flavoured, moulded-custard preparation. Poach and turn it out as directed.

2641—CRÈME A LA VIENNOISE, MOULÉE

This is a custard with caramel, but instead of clothing the mould with the latter, it is dissolved in the hot milk. The custard should be treated exactly like the vanilla-flavoured kind.

2642—CRÈME A LA FLORENTINE

Make a preparation of pralin-flavoured custard with caramel and poach it.

When it is quite cold, turn it out on a dish; decorate it with Kirsch-flavoured Chantilly cream, and sprinkle its surface with chopped pistachios.

2643—CRÈME A L’OPÉRA

Poach, in an ornamented border-mould, a preparation of pralin-flavoured custard. When it is turned out, garnish its midst with a dome of Chantilly cream, aromatised with pralined violets. Upon the border set a crown of fine strawberries, macerated in a Kirsch-flavoured syrup, and cover with a veil of sugar cooked to the large-crack stage.

Cold Creams with a Whisked-Cream Base.

2644—CRÈME A LA CHANTILLY

Take some fresh and somewhat thick cream, and whisk it until it is sufficiently stiff to span the members of the whisk. Add to it eight oz. of powdered sugar per quart of cream, and flavour with vanilla or fruit essence.

Whatever be the purpose of this cream, it should, if possible, be prepared only at the last moment.

2645—CRÈME AUX FRUITS A LA CHANTILLY

The constituents for this preparation are a purée of the selected fruit and Chantilly cream, in the proportion of one-third of the former to two-thirds of the latter.

The quantities of sugar and kind of flavour vary according to the nature of the fruit.

It is served either as an entremet garnish, or alone in a bowl, with a decoration of the same cream, laid by means of a piping-bag fitted with a small even or grooved pipe. Send some lady’s-finger biscuits separately.

2646—CRÈME CAPRICE

Take some Chantilly cream, and add to it one-quarter of its bulk of roughly broken-up meringues. Put the preparation in an iced Madeleine-mould, lined with white paper; seal up thoroughly; string tightly, and keep the utensil in ice for two hours.

Turn out when about to serve; remove the paper; and decorate, by means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe, with Chantilly cream, tinted pink with strawberry and raspberry juice.

2647—BRISE DU PRINTEMPS

Take some violet-flavoured, slightly-iced Chantilly cream, and set in small dessert-dishes, by means of a spoon.

2648—NUÉES ROSES

Take some Chantilly cream, aromatised with vanilla-flavoured strawberry purée, and dish it in small dessert-dishes, by means of a spoon.

2649—FLAMRI

Boil one pint of white wine and as much water, and sprinkle in it eight oz. of small semolina. Cook gently for twenty-five minutes. Then add to the preparation two-thirds lb. of powdered sugar, a pinch of table-salt, two eggs, and the whites of six, beaten to a stiff froth.

Pour it into moulds with buttered sides; set these to poach in the bain-marie, and leave them to cool. Turn out, and coat with a purée of raw fruit, such as strawberries, red-currants, cherries, etc., reasonably sugared.

2650—JELLIES

From the standpoint of their preparation, jellies are of two kinds: (1) wine- or liqueur-flavoured jellies; (2) fruit jellies. But their base is the same in all cases, i.e., gelatine dissolved in a certain quantity of water.

The gelatine should be extracted from calf’s foot, by boiling the latter; but, although this is the best that can be obtained, the means of obtaining it are the most complicated. The gelatine bought ready-made may also be used in the quantities given below.

2651—CALF’S-FOOT JELLY

Take some fine soaked and blanched calves’ feet, and set them to cook in one and three-quarters pints of water apiece. Skim as thoroughly as possible; cover, and then cook very gently for seven hours. This done, strain the cooking-liquor and clear it of all grease; test its strength, after having cooled a little of it on ice; rectify it if necessary with sufficient filtered water, and once more test it by means of ice.

Per quart of calf’s-foot jelly, add eight oz. of sugar, a mite of cinnamon, half the rind of an orange and lemon, and all their juice.

For the clarification, proceed as directed hereafter.

2652—JELLY WITH A GELATINE BASE

Dissolve one oz. of strong gelatine in a quart of water. Add one-half lb. of sugar, one-sixth oz. of coriander, and the zest and juice of half a lemon and of a whole orange; boil, and then let the preparation stand for ten minutes away from the fire.

Whisk one and a half egg-whites in a very clean saucepan, together with a port wine-glassful of white wine, and pour the cleared syrup, little by little, over the egg-whites, whisking briskly the while. Set the saucepan on the fire, and continue whisking until the boil is reached; then move the utensil to a corner of the stove, and keep the jelly only just simmering for one-quarter of an hour.

At the end of that time the clarification is completed; strain the jelly through a woollen bag, placed over a very clean bowl, and, if the jelly is turbid after the first time of straining, strain it again and again until it becomes quite clear. Let it almost cool before adding any flavour.

The Flavouring.—Whether the jelly be prepared from calves’ feet or from gelatine, the above preparation is naught else than a cohered syrup, to which the addition of some flavour lends the character of a jelly. The complementary ingredients for jellies are liqueurs, good wines, and the juice of fruit; and the quantity of water prescribed should be so reduced as to allow for the ultimate addition of the liquid flavouring.

Thus, every jelly of which the flavour is a liqueur ought to be prepared with only nine-tenths of a quart of water; and the remaining one-tenth of the measure is subsequently added in the form of Kirsch, Maraschino, Rum, or Anisette, etc.

A jelly flavoured with a good wine, such as Champagne, Madeira, Sherry, Marsala, etc., should contain only seven-tenths of a quart of water and three-tenths of a quart of the selected wine.

In the case of fruit jellies, the procedure differs in accordance with the kind of fruit used.

For red-fruit jellies, prepared from strawberries, raspberries, red-currants, cherries, and cranberries, these fruits, which should be very ripe, are rubbed through a sieve, and combined with one-tenth to three-tenths of a quart of water per lb., according as to whether the fruit be more or less juicy.

This done, filter the resulting juice, and add it to the jelly in the proportion of one part of the former to two parts of the latter. The jelly should therefore be twice as strong as for the previous preparation, in order that it may remain sufficiently consistent in spite of the added juice.

When the fruit is too juicy, rub it through a sieve; let the juice ferment for a few hours, and only filter the clear juice which results from the fermentation.

Aqueous-fruit jellies, prepared from grapes, oranges, lemons, and tangerines, are made in the same way. The filtering of these fruit juices is easily done, and, except for the grapes, they need not be set to ferment.

When these fruits are not quite ripe, their juices may be added to the jelly even before the clarification—a procedure which helps to modify their acidity. The apportionment of the fruit juices to the jelly is practically the same as that of the red-fruit juices.

Stone-fruit, such as apricots, peaches, nectarines, plums, etc., are often used as jelly garnishes, but seldom serve as the flavouring base of a jelly. Whenever they are treated in this way, they are first plunged in boiling water, that they may be peeled; they are then poached and left to cool in the syrup which goes towards preparing the jelly.

This jelly, after it has been clarified and three-parts cooled, should have a little Kirsch or Maraschino added to it, that its fruit flavour may be intensified.

2653—THE GARNISH AND ACCOMPANIMENTS OF JELLIES

As a rule, jellies are served plain. Sometimes, however, they are garnished with variously-shaped, stewed fruits, symmetrically distributed in the jelly, with their colours nicely contrasted.

A jelly prepared in this way is called a “Suédoise of fruit.”

2654—GELÉES

These are differently-flavoured and differently-coloured jellies moulded in alternate layers, even and equally thick.

They are generally served without garnish.

2655—JELLIES A LA RUSSE

These are ordinary jellies which are whisked over ice until they begin to set. They are then speedily moulded. By skilfully mixing two or three of these jellies, of different shades and flavours, at the moment of moulding, very effective “Marbled Jellies” are obtained.

2656—JELLIES A LA MOSCOVITE

These are ordinary jellies, poured into tightly-closing moulds, the sealing of which is ensured by a thread of butter, laid round the edges of the lids. The moulds are then surrounded with broken ice, mixed with five lb. of freezing salt and eight oz. of saltpetre per twenty-five lb. of ice.

The cold produced by the salted ice causes a frosted coat to form round the jelly, the effect of which is exceedingly pretty. But the moulds should be withdrawn from the ice as soon as the frosted coat is formed and the jelly is set; for a longer sojourn in the cold would transform the jelly into an uneatable block of ice.

N.B.—Modern methods have greatly simplified the dishing and serving of jellies. They are now dished in special silver bowls or deep dishes, and they are not, as a rule, moulded. The bottom of these utensils is sometimes decked with stewed fruit or macédoines of fruit which are covered with the jelly; and, as the latter is served in the utensil itself, the quantity of gelatine may be reduced, and greater delicacy is the result.

2657—PAINS DE FRUITS

These “pains” are made in ordinary Charlotte moulds.

Clothe the mould with a fairly thick coat of jelly, in keeping with the flavour of the fruit used, which may be apricots, strawberries, red-currants, cherries, peaches, etc. Fill up the mould with a preparation, made as for a fruit Bavarois, but without cream.

The amount of gelatine used should therefore be reduced.

2658—COLD PUDDINGS

Cold puddings have a great deal in common with Bavarois and, more often than not, these two kinds of sweets have the same base. Their distinguishing difference lies in the fact that Bavarois are generally served without a garnish or sauce, whereas puddings always have either one or the other, and sometimes both.

The sauces for puddings are those given at the beginning of this chapter.

Their garnishes always consist of fruit, and the latter is either stewed and served separately, or it is candied and combined with the pudding paste.

2659—PUDDING A LA BOHÉMIENNE

Make some very small pancakes, and garnish them with a salpicon of candied fruits and currants swelled in tepid water, cohered with some fairly stiff, apple purée. Close up the pancakes to the shape of balls or rectangles, and set them in a buttered border-mould. Fill up the mould with a moulded-custard preparation (No. 2639), containing a good proportion of whole eggs, and poach in a bain-marie.

Leave the whole to cool in the mould; turn out at the last moment, and coat the pudding with a sabayon, flavoured according to fancy.

2660—PUDDING DIPLOMATE

Decorate the bottom of an oiled deep Bavarois-mould with pieces of candied fruit. Fill up the mould with alternate layers of vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation and “lady’s-finger-biscuits,” saturated with Kirsch. On each layer of biscuit sprinkle some currants and raisins swelled in tepid water, and here and there set a tablespoonful of apricot jam.

Let the contents of the mould set in the cool or on ice, and turn out just before serving.

2661—PUDDING DIPLOMATE AUX FRUITS

Prepare the pudding as above, but spread a few extra layers of fresh fruit in the mould, such as very ripe pears, peaches, apricots, etc., all peeled, cut into thin slices, and previously macerated with powdered sugar and half a port wine-glassful of either Kirsch, Maraschino, or Anisette, etc.

When the pudding is turned out, surround its base with some very cold stewed fruit the same as one of the kinds used inside the pudding, or some stewed, mixed fruit.

2662—PUDDING MALAKOFF

Prepare (1) a gelatinous English custard, combined with one pint of very fresh, raw cream per quart; (2) a stew of apples and pears, prepared as for an apple Charlotte; currants and sultanas, swelled in tepid syrup; fresh splintered almonds; candied orange rind, cut into dice; slices of stale biscuit, or lady’s-finger biscuits, saturated with liqueur. Oil a Charlotte mould, and pour into it a layer of cream half an inch thick. Upon this cream lay a thickness of biscuits, copiously coated with marmalade, and sprinkle with raisins, almonds and orange-rind dice.

Cover with a layer of cream; lay a second thickness of biscuits, and proceed thus in the same order with a Kirsch-flavoured cold sabayon.

2663—PUDDING A LA NESSELRODE

To an English custard, prepared after No. 2397, add eight oz. of a smooth, chestnut purée, and four oz. of currants and sultanas (swelled in tepid water), and candied orange-rind and cherries, cut into dice; these four products should be in almost equal quantities, and ought to have been previously macerated in sweetened Madeira.

Add some Maraschino-flavoured, whipped cream to the preparation; apportioning it as for a Bavarois.

Garnish the bottom and sides of a Charlotte mould with white paper; pour the preparation into the mould; completely close the latter, sealing the lid down with a thread of butter, and surround the utensil with plenty of salted ice. When about to serve, turn out on a napkin; remove the paper, and surround the base of the pudding with a crown of fine, candied chestnuts, or balls of chocolate-iced, candied chestnut purée.

N.B.—The English custard may be packed in the freezer, mixed with whipped cream when it is almost congealed, and then placed in a mould.

2664—PUDDING A LA RICHELIEU

Rub some stewed prunes through a fine sieve, and add to the purée equal quantities of very stiff, Kirsch-flavoured jelly and the reduced juice of the prunes. Let a layer three-quarters of an inch thick, of the preparation set on the bottom of a Charlotte mould. In the latter set a smaller mould (tinned outside), filled with broken ice, and either fitted with handles that can rest on the brim of the first mould, or else sufficiently deep to be easily grasped and removed when necessary. The space between the sides of the two moulds should measure about three-quarters of an inch.

Fill up this space with what remains of the prune purée, thickened with jelly; leave the preparation to set; withdraw the ice from the little mould; pour some tepid water into the latter, that it may be immediately detached from the surrounding, iced preparation.

Fill the space left by the withdrawn mould with some vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation; leave to set, and turn out at the last moment on a napkin.

2665—PUDDING OR “CRÈME

Prepare the whites of four eggs as for Italian meringue (No. 2383), and add to the sugar, while cooking, its bulk of quince jelly, and, at the last moment, one and a half ounces of candied fruit, cut into dice, macerated in Kirsch and carefully drained. Set the meringue, in shapes resembling large buttons, on a sheet of paper.

Boil in a utensil large enough to take the sheet of paper, four quarts of water, containing two and a half lb. of sugar and one-quarter pint of Kirsch. Slip the sheet of paper into this boiling syrup; withdraw it as soon as it easily separates from the pieces of meringue; poach the latter; drain them on a piece of linen and let them cool.

Meanwhile, make two Bavarois preparations; one white and vanilla-flavoured, and the other pink and flavoured with Curaçao

Set these preparations in even, alternate layers, in a slightly-oiled iced-Madeleine mould, distributing the meringues between each layer.

Cover the mould with a piece of paper and a lid, and keep it surrounded by ice for two hours. When about to serve, turn it out on a napkin.

COLD FRUIT ENTREMETS.

Apricots (Abricots).

2666—ABRICOTS A LA PARISIENNE

Poach the halved apricots in vanilla-flavoured syrup. Cool them and drain them; and reconstruct the apricots by joining the halves together with a piece of vanilla ice-cream, the size of a walnut, in the centre.

Set these apricots upon some large overturned macaroons; cover with vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream, shaped like a cone and sprinkle with fine filbert pralin.

2667—ABRICOTS A LA ROYALE

Take some fairly deep tartlet moulds, and set in them some fine, cold, half-apricots, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup. Fill up the tartlet moulds with very limpid, Kirsch-flavoured jelly.

Prepare a shallow, Génoise border, glazed with red-currant jelly, cooked to the small-thread stage, and sprinkle with chopped pistachios.

Turn out the tartlets of apricot jelly and place them in a crown over the border. Garnish the centre of the latter with chopped anisette-flavoured pink jelly.

Pine-apple (Ananas).

2668—ANANAS GEORGETTE

Take a fine whole pine-apple, and hollow it out to within half an inch of its outside all round and at the bottom. Put aside the slice cut from the top, on which is the bunch of leaves.

Fill the inside with a Bavarois preparation made from pine-apple purée, combined with the withdrawn pine-apple pulp, cut into thin slices, and leave to set. Dish on a napkin, and return the top slice to the pine-apple, that it may seem untouched.

2669—ANANAS A LA VIRGINIE

Proceed exactly as above, but replace the pine-apple Bavarois preparation by a strawberry kind, combined, as before, with the pulp withdrawn from the inside of the pine-apple, cut into dice.

2670—ANANAS A LA NINON

Line the sides of a soufflé timbale with vanilla ice-cream, laying it in an oblique strip from the edge of the utensil to the centre of the bottom of the timbale. Upon this layer of ice-cream set two or three rows of thin pine-apple slices, in such a way as to make the slices of the last row project beyond the edge of the timbale.

In the centre of the mould build a pyramid of wild strawberries; cover this with a raspberry purée, and sprinkle the latter with chopped pistachios.

2670a—PINE-APPLE A LA ROYALE

Take a fresh pine-apple and cut a slice from its top, containing the bunch of leaves. Withdraw the pulp from the inside, and leave a thickness of about half an inch all round and on the bottom.

Fill it with a macédoine of fresh fruit macerated in Kirsch; set it in the middle of a crystal bowl; and surround the base with a crown of fine Montreuil peaches, poached in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, alternated by large strawberries, macerated in Kirsch.

Return the bunch of leaves to its place upon the pine-apple.

Cherries (Cerises).

2671—CERISES A LA DUBARRY

Line a flawn-ring with good, short paste; set it on a small round baking-sheet; prick the paste on the bottom to prevent its blistering while baking, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and garnish with fine, stoned cherries, pressed snugly one against the other.

Bake the flawn in the usual way and let it cool.

When it is quite cold cover the cherries with Chantilly cream, combined either with ordinary pralin or with crushed macaroons.

Smooth the surface of the cream, as also the sides of the flawn; cover it with macaroon powder, and then decorate by means of the piping-bag with white and pink Chantilly cream.

2672—CERISES AU CLARET

Select some fine cherries; cut off the ends of their stalks, and set them in a silver timbale. Pour sufficient sweetened Bordeaux wine (flavoured with a mite of cinnamon) over them, to just cover them. Close the timbale, and keep it on the side of the fire for ten minutes, that the cherries may poach.

Let them cool in the syrup; drain the latter away; reduce it by a third, and add, in order to thicken it slightly, one tablespoonful of red-currant jelly per six tablespoonfuls of reduced syrup.

Serve the cherries quite cold, and some lady’s-finger biscuits separately.

Strawberries (Fraises).

2673—FRAISES A LA CRÉOLE

Set some fine strawberries and an equal amount of pine-apple, cut into dice, to macerate in powdered sugar and Kirsch.

Arrange a close crown of pine-apple slices, also macerated in Kirsch, upon a tazza. In the middle of the crown build a pyramid of the strawberries and pine-apple, and sprinkle with a Kirsch-flavoured syrup.

2674—FRAISES FEMINA

Select some fine strawberries; sprinkle them with sugar and Grand-Marnier Curaçao, and leave them to macerate on ice for an hour.

When about to serve, spread on the bottom of a bowl or timbale a layer of orange-ice (which should be combined with the macerating liqueur) and set the strawberries thereon.

2675—FRAISES MARGUERITE

Set some wild strawberries to macerate in sugar and Kirsch. Drain them; cohere them with an equal quantity of pomegranate sherbet; set them in a silver timbale, already surrounded with ice; cover the strawberries with Maraschino-flavoured Chantilly cream, and decorate with the latter.

2676—FRAISES MARQUISE

Set in a timbale surrounded with ice some Chantilly cream, combined with half its bulk of a purée of wild strawberries. Completely cover this cream with fine, fair-sized selected strawberries (macerated with Kirsch), rolled at the last minute in semolina sugar.

2677—FRAISES MELBA

Garnish the bottom of a timbale with vanilla ice-cream. Upon this arrange a layer of choice strawberries, and cover the latter with a thick, slightly-sugared, fresh raspberry purée.

2678—FRAISES NINA

Prepare the strawberries as directed under No. 2675, and cohere them with pine-apple sherbet. Dish them as before in a timbale, and cover them with some Chantilly cream, tinted pink by means of a red-capsicum purée flavoured with ginger.

2679—FRAISES ROMANOFF

Macerate some fine strawberries with orange juice and Curaçao. Set them in a timbale surrounded with ice, and cover them with Chantilly cream, laid upon them by means of a piping-bag, fitted with a large, grooved pipe.

2680—FRAISES WILHELMINE

Macerate some fine, large strawberries with Kirsch, powdered sugar, and orange juice. Dish them in a timbale and serve a vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream separately.

2681—FRAISES LÉRINA

Take a small black melon of Carmes; open it by cutting out a bung-shaped piece containing the stalk, and remove all its seeds. Then cut out all the pulp, by means of a dessert-spoon, and sprinkle it with powdered sugar.

Macerate the required number of strawberries in Lérina liqueur.

Garnish the inside of the melon with these strawberries and the withdrawn pulp; close the melon by replacing the bung cut out at the start, and keep in a refrigerator for two hours, surrounded by ice.

Dish on a napkin at the last moment.

2682—FRAISES “RÊVE DE BÉBÉ

Select a fair-sized, very ripe pine-apple, cut off a slice of it at the top and withdraw all its pulp without bursting the rind.

Prepare a square cushion of Génoise, about two inches thick; slightly hollow it out towards its centre, that the emptied pine-apple may be set upright upon it; and stick the cushion upon a dry-paste base, of the same size and shape as the former. Glaze the Génoise cushion with pink fondant, decorate with “royale” glaze, and set a large strawberry at each corner.

Slice half of the withdrawn pine-apple pulp, and macerate it with Kirsch, Maraschino and sugar. Pound the remaining pulp and press it in order to extract its juice.

Set to macerate with this pine-apple juice a sufficient quantity of strawberries to three-parts fill the pine-apple.

When about to serve, fill the emptied pine-apple with successive and alternate layers of pine-apple with Kirsch and strawberries; and, between each layer, spread a coat of vanilla-flavoured, Chantilly cream.

Close the pine-apple with the slice cut off at the start, and set it upright in the hollow of the cushion. Serve the preparation very cold.

2683—FRAISES A LA RITZ

Set some well-sugared and cooled strawberries in a timbale, and cover them with the following preparation: rub half-pound of wild strawberries through a sieve; add a little Melba sauce to the purée, that it may acquire a pink tint; and then add the same quantity of very stiff vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream.