HENLEY’S BOOK OF RECIPES (continued 11)

III.—A sure remedy for chapped hands consists in keeping them carefully dry and greasing them now and then with an anhydrous fat (not cold cream). The best substances for the purpose are unguentum cereum or oleum olivarum.

If the skin of the hands is already cracked the following preparation will heal it:

Finely ground zinc oxide, 5.0 parts; bismuth oxychloride, 2.0 parts; with fat oil, 12.0 parts; next add glycerine, 5.0 parts; lanolin, 30.0 parts; and scent with rose water, 10.0 parts.

IV.—Wax salve (olive oil 7 parts, and yellow wax 3 parts), or pure olive oil.

Hand-cleaning Paste.—Cleaning pastes are composed of soap and grit, either with or without some free alkali. Any soap may be used, but a white soap is preferred. Castile soap does not make as firm a paste as soap made from animal fats, and the latter also lather better. For grit, anything may be used, from powdered pumice to fine sand.

A good paste may be made by dissolving soap in the least possible quantity of hot water, and as it cools and sets stirring in the grit. A good formula is:

White soap 2 ¹/₂ pounds

Fine sand 1 pound

Water 5 ¹/₂ pints

Lotion For The Hands.—

Boric acid 1 drachm

Glycerine 6 drachms

Dissolve by heat and mix with

Lanolin 6 drachms

Vaseline 1 ounce

Add any perfume desired. The borated glycerine should be cooled before mixing it with the lanolin.

Cosmetic Jelly.—

Tragacanth (white ribbon) 60 grains

Rose water 14 ounces

Macerate for two days and strain forcibly through coarse muslin or cheese {233} cloth. Add glycerine and alcohol, of each 1 ounce. Perfume to suit. Use immediately after bathing, rubbing in well until dry.

Perspiring Hands.—I.—Take rectified eau de cologne, 50 parts (by weight); belladonna dye, 8 parts; glycerine, 3 parts; rub gently twice or three times a day with half a ta­ble­spoon­ful of this mixture. One may also employ chalk, carbonate of magnesia, rice starch, hot and cold baths of the hands (as hot and as cold as can be borne), during 6 minutes, followed by a solution of 4 parts of tannin in 32 of glycerine.

II.—Rub the hands several times per day with the following mixture:

By weight

Rose water 125 parts

Borax 10 parts

Glycerine 8 parts

Hand Bleach.—Lanolin, 30 parts; glycerine, 20 parts; borax, 10 parts; eucalyptol, 2 parts; essential oil of almonds, 1 part. After rubbing the hands with this mixture, cover them with gloves during the night.

For the removal of developing stains, see Photography.

Massage Creams:

Massage Application.—

White potash soap, shaved 20 parts Glycerine 30 parts Water 30 parts Alcohol (90 per cent) 10 parts

Dissolve the soap by heating it with the glycerine and water, mixed. Add the alcohol, and for every 30 ounces of the solution add 5 or 6 drops of the mistura oleoso balsamica, German Pharmacopœia. Filter while hot.

Medicated Massage Balls.—They are the balls of paraffine wax molded with a smooth or rough surface with menthol, camphor, oil of wintergreen, oil of peppermint, etc., added before shaping. Specially useful in headaches, neuralgias, and rheumatic affections, and many other afflictions of the skin and bones. The method of using them is to roll the ball over the affected part by the aid of the palm of the hand with pressure. Continue until relief is obtained or a sensation of warmth. The only external method for the treatment of all kinds of headaches is the menthol medicated massage ball. This may be made with smooth or corrugated surfaces. Keep wrapped in foil in cool places.

Casein Massage Cream.—The basis of the modern massage cream is casein. Casein is now produced very cheaply in the powdered form, and by treatment with glycerine and perfumes it is possible to turn out a satisfactory cream. The following formula is suggested:

Skimmed milk 1 gallon

Water of ammonia 1 ounce

Acetic acid 1 ounce

Oil of rose geranium 1 drachm

Oil of bitter almond 1 drachm

Oil of anise 2 drachms

Cold cream (see below), enough.

Carmine enough to color.

Add the water of ammonia to the milk and let it stand 24 hours. Then add the acetic acid and let it stand another 24 hours. Then strain through cheese cloth and add the oils. Work this thoroughly in a Wedgwood mortar, adding enough carmine to color it a delicate pink. To the product thus obtained add an equal amount of cold cream made by the formula herewith given:

White wax 4 ounces

Spermaceti 4 ounces

White petrolatum 12 ounces

Rose water 14 ounces

Borax 80 grains

Melt the wax, spermaceti, and petrolatum together over a water bath; dissolve the borax in the rose water and add to the melted mass at one time. Agitate violently. Presumably the borax solution should be of the same temperature as the melted mass.

Massage Skin Foods.—

This preparation is used in massage for removing wrinkles:

I.— White wax ¹/₂ ounce

Spermaceti ¹/₂ ounce

Cocoanut oil 1 ounce

Lanolin 1 ounce

Oil of sweet almonds 2 ounces

Melt in a porcelain dish, remove from the fire, and add

Orange-flower water 1 ounce

Tincture of benzoin 3 drops

Beat briskly until creamy.

II.— Snow-white cold cream 4 ounces

Lanolin 4 ounces

Oil of Theobroma 4 ounces

White petrolatum oil 4 ounces

Distilled water 4 ounces

In hot weather add

Spermaceti 1 ¹/₂ drachms

White wax 2 ¹/₂ drachms

{234}

In winter the two latter are left out and the proportion of cocoa butter is modified. Prepared and perfumed in proportion same as cold cream.

III.— White petrolatum 7 av. ounces

Paraffine wax ¹/₂ ounce

Lanolin 2 av. ounces

Water 3 fluidounces

Oil of rose 3 drops

Vanillin 2 grains

Alcohol 1 fluidrachm

Melt the paraffine, add the lanolin and petrolatum, and when these have melted pour the mixture into a warm mortar, and, with constant stirring, incorporate the water. When nearly cold add the oil and vanillin, dissolved in the alcohol.

Preparations of this kind should be rubbed into the skin vigorously, as friction assists the absorbed fat in developing the muscles, and also imparts softness and fullness to the skin.

Skin Bleaches, Balms, Lotions, Etc.:

See also Cleaning Methods and Photography for removal of stains caused by photographic developers.

Astringent Wash For Flabby Skin.—This is used to correct coarse pores, and to remedy an oily or flabby skin. Apply with sponge night and morning:

Cucumber juice 1 ¹/₂ ounces

Tincture of benzoin ¹/₂ ounce

Cologne 1 ounce

Elder-flower water 5 ounces

Put the tincture of benzoin in an 8-ounce bottle, add the other ingredients, previously mixed, and shake slightly. There will be some precipitation of benzoin in this mixture, but it will settle out, or it may be strained out through cheese cloth.

Bleaching Skin Salves.—A skin-bleaching action, due to the presence of hydrogen peroxide, is possessed by the following mixtures:

I.— Lanolin 30 parts

Bitter almond oil 10 parts

Mix and stir with this salve base a solution of

Borax 1 part

Glycerine 15 parts

Hydrogen peroxide 15 parts

For impure skin the following composition is recommended:

II.— White mercurial ointment 5 grams

Zinc ointment 5 grams

Lanolin 30 grams

Bitter almond oil 10 grams

And gradually stir into this a solution of

Borax 2 grams

Glycerine 30 grams

Rose water 10 grams

Concentrated nitric acid 5 drops

III.— Lanolin 30 grams

Oil sweet almond 10 grams

Borax 1 gram

Glycerine 15 grams

Solution hydrogen peroxide 15 grams

Mix the lanolin and oil, then incorporate the borax previously dissolved in the mixture of glycerine and peroxide solution.

IV.— Ointment ammoniac mercury 5 grams

Ointment zinc oxide 5 grams

Lanolin 30 grams

Oil sweet almond 10 grams

Borax 2 grams

Glycerine 30 grams

Rose water 10 grams

Nitric acid, C. P. 5 drops

Prepare in a similar manner as the foregoing. Rose oil in either ointment makes a good perfume. Both ointments may, of course, be employed as a general skin bleach, which, in fact, is their real office—cosmetic creams.

Emollient Skin Balm.—

Quince seed 1 ounce

Water 7 ounces

Glycerine 1 ¹/₂ ounces

Alcohol 4 ¹/₂ ounces

Salicylic acid 6 grains

Carbolic acid 10 grains

Oil of bay 10 drops

Oil of cloves 5 drops

Oil of orange peel 10 drops

Oil of wintergreen 8 drops

Oil of rose 2 drops

Digest the quince seed in the water for 24 hours, and then press through a cloth; dissolve the salicylic acid in the alcohol; add the carbolic acid to the glycerine; put all together, shake well, and bottle.

Skin Lotion.—

Zinc sulphocarbolate 30 grains

Alcohol (90 per cent) 4 fluidrachms

Glycerine 2 fluidrachms

Tincture of cochineal 1 fluidrachm

Orange-flower water 1 ¹/₂ fluidounces

Rose water (triple) to make 6 fluidounces

{235}

Skin Discoloration.—Discoloration of the neck may be removed by the use of acids, the simplest of which is that in buttermilk, but if the action of this is too slow try 4 ounces of lactic acid, 2 of glycerine, and 1 of rose water. These will mix without heating. Apply several times daily with a soft linen rag; pour a small quantity into a saucer and dip the cloth into this. If the skin becomes sore use less of the remedy and allay the redness and smarting with a good cold cream. It is always an acid that removes freckles and discolorations, by burning them off. It is well to be slow in its use until you find how severe its action is. It is not wise to try for home making any of the prescriptions which include corrosive sublimate or any other deadly poison. Peroxide of hydrogen diluted with 5 times as much water, also will bleach discolorations. Do not try any of these bleaches on a skin freshly sunburned. For that, wash in hot water, or add to the hot water application enough witch-hazel to scent the water, and after that has dried into the skin it will be soon enough to try other applications.

Detergent For Skin Stains.—Moritz Weiss has introduced a detergent paste which will remove stains from the skin without attacking it, is non-poisonous, and can be used without hot water. Moisten the hands with a little cold water, apply a small quantity of the paste to the stained skin, rub the hands together for a few minutes, and rinse with cold water. The preparation is a mixture of soft soap and hard tallow, melted together over the fire and incorporated with a little emery powder, flint, glass, sand, quartz, pumice stone, etc., with a little essential oil to mask the smell of the soap. The mixture sets to a mass like putty, but does not dry hard. The approximate proportions of the ingredients are: Soft soap, 30 per cent; tallow, 15 per cent; emery powder, 55 per cent, and a few drops of essential oil.

If an extra detergent quality is desired, 4 ounces of sodium carbonate may be added, and the quantity of soap may be reduced. Paste thus made will attack grease, etc., more readily, but it is harder on the skin.

Removing Inground Dirt.—

Egg albumen 8 parts

Boric acid 1 part

Glycerine 32 parts

Perfume to suit.

Distilled water to make 50 parts

Dissolve the boric acid in a sufficient quantity of water; mix the albumen and glycerine and pass through a silk strainer. Finally, mix the two fluids and add the residue of water.

Every time the hands are washed, dry on a towel, and then moisten them lightly but thoroughly with the liquid, and dry on a soft towel without rubbing. At night, on retiring, apply the mixture and wipe slightly or just enough to take up superfluous liquid; or, better still, sleep in a pair of cotton gloves.

Toilet Creams:

Almond Cold Creams.—A liquid almond cream may be made by the appended formula. It has been known as milk of almond:

I.— Sweet almonds 5 ounces

White castile soap 2 drachms

White wax 2 drachms

Spermaceti 2 drachms

Oil of bitter almonds 10 minims

Oil of bergamot 20 minims

Alcohol 6 fluidounces

Water, a sufficient quantity.

Beat the almonds in a smooth mortar until as much divided as their nature will admit; then gradually add water in very small quantities, continuing the beating until a smooth paste is obtained; add to this, gradually, one pint of water, stirring well all the time. Strain the resulting emulsion without pressure through a cotton cloth previously well washed to remove all foreign matter. If new, the cloth will contain starch, etc., which must be removed. Add, through the strainer, enough water to bring the measure of the strained liquid to 1 pint. While this operation is going on let the soap be shaved into thin ribbons, and melted, with enough water to cover it, over a very gentle fire or on a water bath. When fluid add the wax and spermaceti in large pieces, so as to allow them to melt slowly, and thereby better effect union with the soap. Stir occasionally. When all is melted place the soapy mixture in a mortar, run into it slowly the emulsion, blending the two all the while with the pestle. Care must be taken not to add the emulsion faster than it can be incorporated with the soap. Lastly add the alcohol in which the perfumes have been previously dissolved, in the same manner, using great care.

This preparation is troublesome to make and rather expensive, and it is perhaps no better for the purpose than glycerine. The mistake is often made of applying the latter too freely, its “stickiness” being unpleasant, and it is {236} best to dilute it largely with water. Such a lotion may be made by mixing

Glycerine 1 part

Rose water 9 parts

Plain water may, of course, be used as the diluent, but a slightly perfumed preparation is generally considered more desirable. The perfume may easily be obtained by dissolving a very small proportion of handkerchief “extract” or some essential oil in the glycerine, and then mixing with plain water.

II.— White wax ¹/₄ ounce

Spermaceti 2 ¹/₂ ounces

Oil of sweet almonds 2 ¹/₂ ounces

Melt, remove from the fire, and add

Rose water 1 ¹/₂ ounces

Beat until creamy: not until cold. When the cream begins to thicken add a few drops of oil of rose. Only the finest almond oil should be used. Be careful in weighing the wax and spermaceti. These precautions will insure a good product.

III.— White wax 4 ounces

Spermaceti 3 ounces

Sweet almond oil 6 fluidounces

Glycerine 4 fluidounces

Oil of rose geranium 1 fluidrachm

Tincture of benzoin 4 fluidrachms

Melt the wax and spermaceti, add the oil of sweet almonds, then beat in the glycerine, tincture of benzoin, and oil of rose geranium. When all are incorporated to a smooth, creamy mass, pour into molds.

IV.— Sweet almonds, blanched 5 ounces

Castile soap, white 120 grains

White wax 120 grains

Spermaceti 120 grains

Oil of bitter almonds 10 drops

Oil of bergamot 20 drops

Alcohol 6 fluidounces

Water, sufficient.

Make an emulsion of the almonds with water so as to obtain 16 fluidounces of product, straining through cotton which has previously been washed to remove starch. Dissolve the soap with the aid of heat in the necessary amount of water to form a liquid, add the wax and spermaceti, continue the heat until the latter is melted, transfer to a mortar, and incorporate the almond emulsion slowly with constant stirring until all has been added and a smooth cream has been formed. Finally, add the two volatile oils.

V.—Melt, at moderate heat,

By weight.

White wax 100 parts

Spermaceti 1,000 parts

Then stir in

Almond oil 500 parts

Rose water 260 parts

And scent with

Bergamot oil 10 parts

Geranium oil 5 parts

Lemon oil 4 parts

By weight.

VI.— Castor oil 500 parts

White wax 100 parts

Almond oil 150 parts

Melt at moderate heat and scent with

Geranium oil 6 parts

Lemon oil 5 parts

Bergamot oil 10 parts

VII.— Almond oil 400 parts

Lanoline 200 parts

White wax 60 parts

Spermaceti 60 parts

Rose water 300 parts

VIII.— White wax 6 parts

Tallow, freshly tried out 4 parts

Spermaceti 2 parts

Oil of sweet almonds 6 parts

Melt together and while still hot add, with constant stirring, 1 part of sodium carbonate dissolved in 79 parts of hot water. Stir until cold. Perfume to the taste.

IX.— Ointment of rose water 1 ounce

Oil of sweet almonds. 1 fluidounce

Glycerine 1 fluidounce

Boric acid 100 grains

Solution of soda 2 ¹/₄ fluidounces

Mucilage of quince seed. 4 fluidounces

Water enough to make 40 fluidounces

Oil of rose, oil of bitter almonds, of each sufficient to perfume.

Heat the ointment, oil, and solution of soda together, stirring constantly until an emulsion or saponaceous mixture is {237} formed. Then warm together the glycerine, acid, and mucilage and about 30 fluidounces of water; mix with the emulsion, stir until cold, and add the remainder of the water. Lastly, add the volatile oils.

The rose-water ointment used should be the “cold cream” of the United States Pharmacopœia.

X.— Spermaceti 2 ounces

White wax 2 ounces

Sweet almond oil 14 fluidounces

Water, distilled 7 fluidounces

Borax, powder 60 grains

Coumarin ¹/₂ grain

Oil of bergamot 24 drops

Oil of rose 6 drops

Oil of bitter almonds 8 drops

Tincture of ambergris 5 drops

Melt the spermaceti and wax, add the sweet almond oil, incorporate the water in which the borax has previously been dissolved, and finally add the oils of bergamot, rose, and bitter almond.

XI.— Honey 2 av. ounces

Castile soap, white powder 1 av. ounce

Oil sweet almonds 26 fluidounces

Oil bitter almonds 1 fluidrachm

Oil bergamot ¹/₂ fluidrachm

Oil cloves 15 drops

Peru balsam 1 fluidrachm

Liquor potassa. Solution carmine, of each sufficient.

Mix the honey with the soap in a mortar, and add enough liquor potassa (about 1 fluidrachm) to produce a nice cream. Mix the volatile oils and balsam with the sweet almond oil, mix this with the cream, and continue the trituration until thoroughly mixed. Finally add, if desired, enough carmine solution to impart a rose tint.

XII.— White wax 800 parts

Spermaceti 800 parts

Sweet almond oil 5,600 parts

Distilled water 2,800 parts

Borax 50 parts

Bergamot oil 20 parts

Attar of rose 5 parts

Coumarin 0.1 part

Add for each pound of the cream 5 drops of etheric oil of bitter almonds, and 3 drops tincture of ambra. Proceed as in making cold cream.

The following also makes a fine cream:

XIII.— Spermaceti 3 parts

White wax 2 parts

Oil of almonds, fresh 12 parts

Rose water, double 1 part

Glycerine, pure 1 part

Melt on a water bath the spermaceti and wax, add the oil (which should be fresh), and pour the whole into a slightly warmed mortar, under constant and lively stirring, to prevent granulation. Continue the trituration until the mass has a white, creamy appearance, and is about the consistence of butter at ordinary temperature. Add, little by little, under constant stirring, the orange-flower water and glycerine mixed, and finally the perfume as before. Continue the stirring for 15 or 20 minutes, then immediately put into containers.

Chappine Cream.—

Quince seed 2 drachms

Glycerine 1 ¹/₂ ounces

Water 1 ¹/₂ ounces

Lead acetate 10 grains

Flavoring, sufficient.

Macerate the quince seed in water, strain, add the glycerine and lead acetate, previously dissolved in sufficient water; flavor with jockey club or orange essence.

Cucumber Creams.—

I.— White wax 3 ounces

Spermaceti 3 ounces

Benzoinated lard 8 ounces

Cucumbers 3 ounces

Melt together the wax, spermaceti, and lard, and infuse in the liquid the cucumbers previously grated. Allow to cool, stirring well; let stand a day, remelt, strain and again stir the “cream” until cold.

II.— Benzoinated lard 5 ounces

Suet 3 ounces

Cucumber juice 10 ounces

Proceed as in making cold cream.

Glycerine Creams.—

I.— Oil of sweet almonds 100 parts

White wax 13 parts

Glycerine, pure 25 parts

Add a sufficient quantity of any suitable perfume.

Melt, on the water bath, the oil, wax, and glycerine together, remove and as the mass cools down add the perfume in sufficient quantity to make a creamy mass. {238}

II.— Quince seed 1 ounce

Boric acid 16 grains

Starch 1 ounce

Glycerine 16 ounces

Carbolic acid 30 minims

Alcohol 12 ounces

Oil of lavender 30 minims

Oil of rose 10 drops

Extract of white rose 1 ounce

Water enough to make 64 ounces

Dissolve the boric acid in a quart of water and in this solution macerate the quince seed for 3 hours; then strain. Heat together the starch and the glycerine until the starch granules are broken, and mix with this the carbolic acid. Dissolve the oils and the extract of rose in the alcohol, and add to the quince-seed mucilage; then mix all together, strain, and add water enough to make the product weigh 64 ounces.

III.— Glycerine 1 ounce

Borax 2 drachms

Boracic acid 1 drachm

Oil rose geranium 30 drops

Oil bitter almond 15 drops

Milk 1 gallon

Heat the milk until it curdles and allow it to stand 12 hours. Strain it through cheese cloth and allow it to stand again for 12 hours. Mix in the salts and glycerine and triturate in a mortar, finally adding the odors and coloring if wanted. The curdled milk must be entirely free from water to avoid separation. If the milk will not curdle fast enough the addition of 1 ounce of water ammonia to a gallon will hasten it. Take a gallon of milk, add 1 ounce ammonia water, heat (not boil), allow to stand 24 hours, and no trouble will be found in forming a good base for the cream.

IV.—This is offered as a substitute for cucumber cream for toilet uses. Melt 15 parts, by weight, of gelatin in hot water containing 15 parts, by weight, of boracic acid as well as 150 parts, by weight, of glycerine; the total amount of water used should not exceed 300 parts, by weight. It may be perfumed or not.

Lanolin Creams.—

I.— Anhydrous lanolin 650 parts

Peach-kernel oil 200 parts

Water 150 parts

Perfume with about 15 drops of ionone or 20 drops of synthetic ylang-ylang.

II.— Lanolin 40 parts

Olive oil 15 parts

Paraffine ointment 10 parts

Aqua naphæ 10 parts

Distilled water 15 parts

Glycerine 5 parts

Boric acid 4 parts

Borax 4 parts

Geranium oil, sufficient.

Extract, triple, of ylang-ylang, quantity sufficient.

III.— Anhydrous lanolin 650 drachms

Almond oil 200 drachms

Water 150 drachms

Oil of ylang-ylang 5 drops

Preparations which have been introduced years ago for the care of the skin and complexion are the glycerine gelées, which have the advantage over lanolin that they go further, but present the drawback of not being so quickly absorbed by the skin. These products are filled either into glasses or into tubes. The latter way is preferable and is more and more adopted, owing to the convenience of handling.

A good recipe for such a gelée is the following:

Moisten white tragacanth powder, 50 parts, with glycerine, 200 parts, and spirit of wine, 100 parts, and shake with a suitable amount of perfume; then quickly mix and shake with warm distilled water, 650 parts.

A transparent slime will form immediately which can be drawn off at once.

Mucilage Creams.—

I.— Starch 30 parts

Carrageen mucilage 480 parts

Boric acid 15 parts

Glycerine 240 parts

Cologne water 240 parts

Boil the starch in the carrageen mucilage, add the boric acid and the glycerine. Let cool, and add the cologne water.

II.— Linseed mucilage 240 parts

Boric acid 2 parts

Salicylic acid 1.3 parts

Glycerine 60 parts

Cologne water 120 parts

Rose water 120 parts

Instead of the cologne water any extracts may be used. Lilac and ylang-ylang are recommended.

Witch-hazel Creams.—

I.— Quince seed 90 grains

Boric acid 8 grains

Glycerine 4 fluidounces

Alcohol 6 fluidounces

Carbolic acid 6 drachms

Cologne water 4 fluidounces

Oil lavender flowers 40 drops

Glycerite starch 4 av. ounces

Distilled witch-hazel extract enough to make 32 fluidounces.

Dissolve the boric acid in 16 ounces of the witch-hazel extract, macerate the quince seed in the solution for 3 hours, strain, add the glycerine, carbolic acid, and glycerite, and mix well. Mix the alcohol, cologne water, lavender oil, and mucilages, incorporate with the previous mixture, and add enough witch-hazel extract to bring to the measure of 32 fluidounces.

II.— Quince seed 4 ounces

Hot water 16 ounces

Glycerine 32 ounces

Witch-hazel water 128 ounces

Boric acid 6 ounces

Rose extract 2 ounces

Violet extract 1 ounce

Macerate the quince seed in the hot water; add the glycerine and witch-hazel, in which the boric acid has been previously dissolved; let the mixture stand for 2 days, stirring occasionally; strain and add the perfume.

Skin Cream For Collapsible Tubes.—

I.— White vaseline 6 ounces

White wax 1 ounce

Spermaceti 5 drachms

Subchloride bismuth 6 drachms

Attar of rose 6 minims

Oil of bitter almonds 1 minim

Rectified spirit ¹/₂ ounce

Melt the vaseline, wax, and spermaceti together, and while cooling incorporate the subchloride of bismuth (in warm mortar). Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, and add to the fatty mixture, stirring all until uniform and cold. In cold weather the quantities of wax and spermaceti may be reduced.

II.— Lanolin 1 ounce

Almond oil 1 ounce

Oleate of zinc (powder) 3 drachms

Extract of white rose 1 ¹/₂ drachms

Glycerine 2 drachms

Rose water 2 drachms

Face Cream Without Grease.—

Quince seed 10 parts

Boiling water 1,000 parts

Borax 5 parts

Boric acid 5 parts

Glycerine 100 parts

Alcohol, 94 per cent 125 parts

Attar of rose, quantity sufficient to perfume.

Macerate the quince seed in half of the boiling water, with frequent agitations, for 2 hours and 30 minutes, then strain off. In the residue of the boiling water dissolve the borax and boric acid, add the glycerine and the perfume, the latter dissolved in the alcohol. Now add, little by little, the colate of quince seed, under constant agitation, which should be kept up for 5 minutes after the last portion of the colate is added.

Toilet Milks:

Cucumber Milk.—

Simple cerate 2 pounds

Powdered borax 11 ¹/₂ ounces

Powdered castile soap 10 ounces

Glycerine 26 ounces

Alcohol 24 ounces

Cucumber juice 32 ounces

Water to 5 gallons

Ionone 1 drachm

Jasmine ¹/₂ drachm

Neroli ¹/₂ drachm

Rhodinol 15 minims

To the melted cerate in a hot water bath add the soap and stir well, keeping up the heat until perfectly mixed. Add 8 ounces of borax to 1 gallon of boiling water, and pour gradually into the hot melted soap and cerate; add the remainder of the borax and hot water, then the heated juice and glycerine, and lastly the alcohol. Shake well while cooling, set aside for 48 hours, and siphon off any water that may separate. Shake well, and repeat after standing again if necessary; then perfume.

Cucumber Juice.—It is well to make a large quantity, as it keeps indefinitely. Washed unpeeled cucumbers are grated and pressed; the juice is heated, skimmed and boiled for 5 minutes, then cooled and filtered. Add 1 part of alcohol to 2 parts of juice, let stand for 12 hours or more, and filter until clear.

Glycerine Milk.—

Glycerine 1,150 parts

Starch, powdered 160 parts

Distilled water 400 parts

Tincture of benzoin 20 parts

Rub up 80 parts of the starch with the glycerine, then put the mixture on the steam bath and heat, under continuous stirring, until it forms a jellylike mass. Remove from the bath and stir in the remainder of the starch. Finally, add the water and tincture and stir till homogeneous.

Lanolin Toilet Milk.—

White castile soap, powdered 22 grains

Lanolin 1 ounce

Tincture benzoin 12 drachms

Water, enough.

{240}

Dissolve the soap in 2 fluidounces of warm water, also mix the lanolin with 2 fluidounces of warm water; then incorporate the two with each other, finally adding the tincture. The latter may be replaced by 90 grains of powdered borax.

Jasmine Milk.—To 25 parts of water add gradually, with constant stirring, 1 part of zinc white, 2 quarts of grain spirit, and 0.15 to 0.25 part of glycerine; finally stir in 0.07 to 0.10 part of jasmine essence. Filter the mixture and fill into glass bottles. For use as a cosmetic, rub on the raspberry paste on retiring at night, and in the morning use the jasmine milk to remove the paste from the skin. The two work together in their effect.

Sunburn And Freckle Remedies.

I.—Apply over the affected skin a solution of corrosive sublimate, 1 in 500, or, if the patient can stand it, 1 in 300, morning and evening, and for the night apply emplastrum hydrargyri compositum to the spots. In the morning remove the plaster and all remnants of it by rubbing fresh butter or cold cream over the spots.

For redness of the skin apply each other day zinc oxide ointment or ointment of bismuth subnitrate.

II.—Besnier recommends removal of the mercurial ointment with green soap, and the use, at night, of an ointment composed of vaseline and Vigo’s plaster (emplastrum hydrargyri compositum), in equal parts. In the morning wash off with soap and warm water, and apply the following:

Vaseline, white 20 parts

Bismuth carbonate 5 parts

Kaolin 5 parts

Mix, and make an ointment.

III.—Leloir has found the following of service. Clean the affected part with green soap or with alcohol, and then apply several coats of the following:

Acid chrysophanic 15 parts

Chloroform 100 parts

Mix. Apply with a camel’s-hair pencil.

When the application dries thoroughly, go over it with a layer of traumaticine. This application will loosen itself in several days, when the process should be repeated.

IV.—When the skin is only slightly discolored use a pomade of salicylic acid, or apply the following:

Acid chrysophanic, from 1 to 4 parts

Acid salicylic 1 to 2 parts

Collodion 40 parts

V.—When there is need for a more complicated treatment, the following is used:

(a) Corrosive sublimate 1 part

Orange-flower water 7,500 parts

Acid, hydrochloric, dilute 500 parts

(b) Bitter almonds 4,500 parts

Glycerine 2,500 parts

Orange-flower water 25,000 parts

Rub up to an emulsion in a porcelain capsule. Filter and add, drop by drop, and under constant stirring, 5 grams of tincture of benzoin. Finally mix the two solutions, adding the second to the first.

This preparation is applied with a sponge, on retiring, to the affected places, and allowed to dry on.

VI.—According to Brocq the following should be penciled over the affected spots:

Fresh pure milk 50 parts

Glycerine 30 parts

Acid, hydrochloric, concentrated 5 parts

Ammonium chlorate 3 parts

VII.—Other external remedies that may be used are lactic acid diluted with 3 volumes of water, applied with a glass rod; dilute nitric acid, and, finally, peroxide of hydrogen, which last is a very powerful agent. Should it cause too much inflammation, the latter may be assuaged by using an ointment of zinc oxide or bismuth subnitrate—or one may use the following:

Kaolin 4 parts

Vaseline 10 parts

Glycerine 4 parts

Magnesium carbonate 2 parts

Zinc oxide 2 parts

Freckle Remedies.—

I.— Poppy oil 1 part

Lead acetate 2 parts

Tincture benzoin 1 part

Tincture quillaia 5 parts

Spirit nitrous ether 1 part

Rose water 95 parts

Saponify the oil with the lead acetate; add the rose water, and follow with the tinctures.

II.— Chloral hydrate 2 drachms

Carbolic acid 1 drachm

Tincture iodine 60 drops

Glycerine 1 ounce

Mix and dissolve. Apply with a camel’s-hair pencil at night.

III.— Distilled vinegar 660 parts

Lemons, cut in small pieces 135 parts

Alcohol, 85 per cent 88 parts

Lavender oil 23 parts

Water 88 parts

Citron oil 6 parts

This mixture is allowed to stand for 3 or 4 days in the sun and filtered. Coat, by means of a sponge before retiring, the places of the skin where the freckles are and allow to dry.

Freckles And Liver Spots.—Modern dermatological methods of treating freckles and liver spots are based partly on remedies that cause desquamation and those that depigmentate (or destroy or neutralize pigmentation). Both methods may be distinguished in respect to their effects and mode of using into the following: The active ingredients of the desquamative pastes are reductives which promote the formation of epithelium and hence expedite desquamation.

There are many such methods, and especially to be mentioned is that of Unna, who uses resorcin for the purpose. Lassar makes use of a paste of naphthol and sulphur.

Sunburn Remedies.—

I.— Zinc sulphocarbolate 1 part

Glycerine. 20 parts

Rose water 70 parts

Alcohol, 90 per cent 8 parts

Cologne water 1 part

Spirit of camphor 1 part

II.— Borax 4 parts

Potassium chlorate 2 parts

Glycerine 10 parts

Alcohol 4 parts

Rose water to make 90 parts

III.— Citric acid 2 drachms

Ferrous sulphate (cryst.) 18 grains

Camphor 2 grains

Elder-flower water 3 fluidounces

IV.— Potassium carbonate 3 parts

Sodium chloride 2 parts

Orange-flower water 15 parts

Rose water 65 parts

V.— Boroglycerine, 50 per cent 1 part

Ointment of rose water 9 parts

VI.— Sodium bicarbonate 1 part

Ointment of rose water 7 parts

VII.— Bicarbonate of soda 2 drachms

Powdered borax 1 drachm

Compound tincture of lavender 1 ¹/₂ drachms

Glycerine 1 ounce

Rose water 4 ounces

Dissolve the soda and borax in the glycerine and rose water, and add the tincture. Apply with a small piece of sponge 2 or 3 times a day. Then gently dry by dabbing with a soft towel.

VIII.— Quince seeds 2 drachms

Distilled water 10 ounces

Glycerine 2 ounces

Alcohol, 94 per cent 1 ounce

Rose water 2 ounces

Boil the seeds in the water for 10 minutes, then strain off the liquid, and when cold add to it the glycerine, alcohol, and rose water.

IX.— White soft soap 2 ¹/₂ drachms

Glycerine 1 ¹/₂ drachms

Almond oil 11 drachms

Well mix the glycerine and soap in a mortar, and very gradually add the oil, stirring constantly until perfectly mixed.

X.— Subnitrate of bismuth 1 ¹/₂ drachms

Powdered French chalk 30 grains

Glycerine 2 drachms

Rose water 1 ¹/₂ ounces

Mix the powders, and rub down carefully with the glycerine; then add the rose water. Shake the bottle before use.

XI.— Glycerine cream 2 drachms

Jordan almonds 4 drachms

Rose water 5 ounces

Essential oil of almonds 3 drops

Blanch the almonds, and then dry and beat them up into a perfectly smooth paste; then mix in the glycerine cream and essential oil. Gradually add the rose water, stirring well after each addition; then strain through muslin.

Tan And Freckle Lotion.—

Solution A:

Potassium iodide, iodine, glycerine, and infusion rose.

Dissolve the potassium iodide in a {242} small quantity of the infusion and a drachm of the glycerine; with this fluid moisten the iodine in a glass of water and rub it down, gradually adding more liquid, until complete solution has been obtained; then stir in the remainder of the ingredients, and bottle the mixture.

Solution B:

Sodium thiosulphate and rose water. With a small camel’s-hair pencil or piece of fine sponge apply a little of solution A to the tanned or freckled surface, until a slight or tolerably uniform brownish yellow skin has been produced. At the expiration of 15 or 20 minutes moisten a piece of cambric, lint, or soft rag with B and lay it upon the affected part, removing, squeezing away the liquid, soaking it afresh, and again applying until the iodine stain has disappeared. Repeat the process thrice daily, but diminish the frequency of application if tenderness be produced.

A Cure For Tan.—Bichloride of mercury, in coarse powder, 10 grains; distilled water, 1 pint. Agitate the two together until a complete solution is obtained. Add ¹/₂ ounce of glycerine. Apply with a small sponge as often as agreeable. This is not strong enough to blister and skin the face in average cases. It may be increased or reduced in strength by adding to or taking from the amount of bichloride of mercury. Do not forget that this last ingredient is a powerful poison and should be kept out of the reach of children and ignorant persons.

Improved Carron Oil.—Superior to the old and more suitable. A desirable preparation for burns, tan, freckle, sunburn, scalds, abrasions, or lung affections. Does not oxidize so quickly or dry up so rapidly and less liable to rancidity.

Linseed oil 2 ounces

Limewater 2 ounces

Paraffine, liquid 1 ounce

Mix the linseed oil and water, and add the paraffine. Shake well before using.

Liver Spots.

I.— Corrosive sublimate 1 part

White sugar 190 parts

White of egg 34 parts

Lemon juice 275 parts

Water to make 2,500 parts

Mix the sublimate, sugar, and albumen intimately, then add the lemon juice and water. Dissolve, shake well, and after standing an hour, filter. Apply in the morning after the usual ablutions, and let dry on the face.

II.—Bichloride of mercury, in coarse powder, 8 grains; witch-hazel, 2 ounces; rose water, 2 ounces.

Agitate until a solution is obtained. Mop over the affected parts. Keep out of the way of ignorant persons and children.

Toilet Powders:

Almond Powders For The Toilet.—

I.— Almond meal 6,000 parts

Bran meal 3,000 parts

Soap powder 600 parts

Bergamot oil 50 parts

Lemon oil 15 parts

Clove oil 15 parts

Neroli oil 6 parts

II.— Almond meal 7,000 parts

Bran meal 2,000 parts

Violet root 900 parts

Borax 350 parts

Bitter almond oil 18 parts

Palmarosa oil 36 parts

Bergamot oil 10 parts

III.— Almond meal 3,000 parts

Bran meal 3,000 parts

Wheat flour 3,000 parts

Sand 100 parts

Lemon oil 40 parts

Bitter almond oil 10 parts

Bath Powder.—

Borax 4 ounces

Salicylic acid 1 drachm

Extract of cassia 1 drachm

Extract of jasmine 1 drachm

Oil of lavender 20 minims

Rub the oil and extracts with the borax and salicylic acid until the alcohol has evaporated. Use a heaping teaspoonful to the body bath.

Brunette Or Rachelle.—

Base 9 pounds

Powdered Florentine orris 1 pound

Perfume the same.

Powdered yellow ocher . . . (av.) 3 ounces 120 grains

Carmine No. 40 60 grains

Rub down the carmine and ocher with alcohol in a mortar, and spread on glass to dry; then mix and sift.

Violet Poudre De Riz.—

I.— Cornstarch 7 pounds

Rice flour 1 pound

Powdered talc 1 pound

Powdered orris root 1 pound

Extract of cassia 3 ounces

Extract of jasmine 1 ounce

{243}

II.—Cheaper.

Potato starch 8 pounds

Powdered talc 1 pound

Powdered orris 1 pound

Extract of cassia 3 ounces

Barber’s Powder.—

Cornstarch 5 pounds

Precipitated chalk 3 pounds

Powdered talc 2 pounds

Oil of neroli 1 drachm

Oil of cedrat 1 drachm

Oil of orange 2 drachms

Extract of jasmine 1 ounce

Rose Poudre De Riz.—

I.— Cornstarch 9 pounds

Powdered talc 1 pound

Oil of rose 1 ¹/₄ drachms

Extract of jasmine 6 drachms

II.— Potato starch 9 pounds

Powdered talc 1 pound

Oil of rose ¹/₂ drachm

Extract of jasmine ¹/₂ ounce

Ideal Cosmetic Powder.—The following combines the best qualities that a powder for the skin should have:

Zinc, white 50 parts

Calcium carbonate, precipitated 300 parts

Steatite, best white 50 parts

Starch, wheat, or rice 100 parts

Extract white rose, triple 3 parts

Extract jasmine, triple 3 parts

Extract orange flower, triple 3 parts

Extract of cassia, triple 3 parts

Tincture of myrrh 1 part

Powder the solids and mix thoroughly by repeated siftings.

Flesh Face Powder.—

Base 9 pounds

Powdered Florentine orris 1 pound

Carmine No. 40 250 grains

Extract of jasmine 100 minims

Oil of neroli 20 minims

Vanillin 5 grains

Artificial musk 30 grains

White heliotropin 30 grains

Coumarin 1 grain

Rub the carmine with a portion of the base and alcohol in a mortar, mixing the perfume the same way in another large mortar, and adding the orris. Mix and sift all until specks of carmine disappear on rubbing.

White Face Powder.—

Base 9 pounds

Powdered Florentine orris 1 pound

Perfume the same. Mix and sift.

Talcum Powders.—Talc, when used as a toilet powder should be in a state of very fine division. Antiseptics are sometimes added in small proportion, but these are presumably of little or no value in the quantity allowable, and may prove irritating. For general use, at all events, the talcum alone is the best and the safest. As a perfume, rose oil may be employed, but on account of its cost, rose geranium oil is probably more frequently used. A satisfactory proportion is ¹/₂ drachm of the oil to a pound of the powder. In order that the perfume may be thoroughly disseminated throughout the powder, the oil should be triturated first with a small portion of it; this should then be further triturated with a larger portion, and, if the quantity operated on be large, the final mixing may be effected by sifting. Many odors besides that of rose would be suitable for a toilet powder. Ylang-ylang would doubtless prove very attractive, but expensive.

The following formulas for other varieties of the powder may prove useful:

Violet Talc.—

I.— Powdered talc 14 ounces

Powdered orris root 2 ounces

Extract of cassia ¹/₂ ounce

Extract of jasmine ¹/₄ ounce

Rose Talc.—

II.— Powdered talc 5 pounds

Oil of rose ¹/₂ drachm

Extract of jasmine 4 ounces

Tea-Rose Talc.—

III.— Powdered talc 5 pounds

Oil of rose 50 drops

Oil of wintergreen 4 drops

Extract of jasmine 2 ounces

Borated Apple Blossom.—

IV.— Powdered talc 22 pounds

Magnesium carbonate 2 ³/₄ pounds

Powdered boric acid 1 pound

Mix.

Carnation pink blossom (Schimmel’s) 2 ounces

Extract of trefle 2 drachms

To 12 drachms of this mixture add:

Neroli 1 drachm

Vanillin ¹/₂ drachm

Alcohol to 3 ounces

Sufficient for 25 pounds.

V.— Talcum 8 ounces

Starch 8 ounces

Oil of neroli 10 drops

Oil of ylang-ylang 5 drops

VI.— Talcum 12 ounces

Starch 4 ounces

Orris root 2 ounces

Oil of bergamot 12 drops

VII.— Talcum 14 ounces

Starch 2 ounces

Lanolin ¹/₂ ounce

Oil of rose 10 drops

Oil of neroli 5 drops

Toilet Vinegars:

Pumillo Toilet Vinegar.—

Alcohol, 80 per cent 1,600 parts

Vinegar, 10 per cent 840 parts

Oil of pinu spumillo 44 parts

Oil of lavender 4 parts

Oil of lemon 2 parts

Oil of bergamot 2 parts

Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, add the vinegar, let stand for a week and filter.

Vinaigre Rouge.—

Acetic acid 24 parts

Alum 3 parts

Peru balsam 1 part

Carmine, No. 40 12 parts

Ammonia water 6 parts

Rose water, distilled 575 parts

Alcohol 1,250 parts

Dissolve the balsam of Peru in the alcohol, and the alum in the rose water. Mix the two solutions, add the acetic acid, and let stand overnight. Dissolve the carmine in the ammonia water and add to mixture. Shake thoroughly, let stand for a few minutes, then decant.

Toilet Waters:

“Beauty Water.”—

Fresh egg albumen 500 parts

Alcohol 125 parts

Lemon oil 2 parts

Lavender oil 2 parts

Oil of thyme 2 parts

Mix the ingredients well together. When first mixed the liquid becomes flocculent, but after standing for 2 or 3 days clears up—sometimes becomes perfectly clear, and may be decanted. It forms a light, amber-colored liquid that remains clear for months.

At night, before retiring, pour about a teaspoonful of the water in the palm of the hand, and rub it over the face and neck, letting it dry on. In the morning, about an hour before the bath, repeat the operation, also letting the liquid dry on the skin. The regular use of this preparation for 4 weeks will give the skin an extraordinary fineness, clearness, and freshness.

Rottmanner’s Beauty Water.—Koller says that this preparation consists of 1 part of camphor, 5 parts of milk of sulphur, and 50 parts of rose water.

Birch Waters.—Birch water, which has many cosmetic applications, especially as a hair wash, or an ingredient in hair washes, may be prepared as follows:

I.— Alcohol, 96 per cent 3,500 parts

Water 700 parts

Potash soap 200 parts

Glycerine 150 parts

Oil of birch buds 50 parts

Essence of spring flowers 100 parts

Chlorophyll, quantity sufficient to color.

Mix the water with 700 parts of the alcohol, and in the mixture dissolve the soap. Add the essence of spring flowers and birch oil to the remainder of the alcohol, mix well, and to the mixture add, little by little, and with constant agitation, the soap mixture. Finally, add the glycerine, mix thoroughly, and set aside for 8 days, filter and color the filtrate with chlorophyll, to which is added a little tincture of saffron. To use, add an equal volume of water to produce a lather.

II.— Alcohol, 96 per cent 2,000 parts

Water 500 parts

Tincture of cantharides 25 parts

Salicylic acid 25 parts

Glycerine 100 parts

Oil of birch buds 40 parts

Bergamot oil 30 parts

Geranium oil 5 parts

Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, add the acid and tincture of cantharides; mix the water and glycerine and add, and, finally, color as before.

III.— Alcohol 30,000 parts

Birch juice 3,000 parts

Glycerine 1,000 parts

Bergamot oil 90 parts

Vanillin 10 parts

Geranium oil 50 parts

Water 14,000 parts

IV.— Alcohol 40,000 parts

Oil of birch 150 parts

Bergamot oil 100 parts

Lemon oil 50 parts

Palmarosa oil 100 parts

Glycerine 2,000 parts

Borax 150 parts

Water 20,000 parts

Violet Ammonia Water.—Most preparations of this character consist of either coarsely powdered ammonium carbonate, with or without the addition of ammonia water, or of a coarsely powdered mixture, which slowly evolves the odor of ammonia, the whole being perfumed by the addition of volatile oil, pomade essences, or handkerchief extract. The following are typical formulas:

I.—Moisten coarsely powdered ammonium carbonate, contained in a suitable bottle, with a mixture of concentrated tincture of orris root, 2 ¹/₂ ounces; aromatic spirit of ammonia, 1 drachm; violet extract, 3 drachms.

II.—Fill suitable bottles with coarsely powdered ammonium carbonate and add to the salt as much of the following solution as it will absorb: Oil of orris, 5 minims; oil of lavender flowers, 10 minims; violet extract, 30 minims; stronger water of ammonia, 2 fluidounces.

III.—The following is a formula for a liquid preparation: Extract violet, 8 fluidrachms; extract cassia, 8 fluidrachms; spirit of rose, 4 fluidrachms; tincture of orris, 4 fluidrachms; cologne spirit, 1 pint; spirit of ammonia, 1 ounce. Spirit of ionone may be used instead of extract of violet.

Violet Witch-hazel.—

Spirit of ionone ¹/₂ drachm

Rose water 6 ounces

Distilled extract of witch-hazel enough to make 16 ounces

COTTON

Bleaching Of Cotton:

I.—Bleaching by Steaming.—The singed and washed cotton goods are passed through hydrochloric acid of 2° Bé. Leave them in heaps during 1 hour, wash, pass through sodium hypochlorite of 10° Bé. diluted with 10 times the volume of water. Let the pieces lie in heaps for 1 hour, wash, pass through caustic soda lye of 38° Bé. diluted with 8 times its volume of water, steam, put again through sodium chloride, wash, acidulate slightly with hydrochloric acid, wash and dry. Should the whiteness not be sufficient, repeat the operations.

II.—Bleaching with Calcium Sulphite.—The cotton goods are impregnated with 1 part, by weight, of water, 1 part of caustic lime, and ¹/₂ part of bisulphite of 40° Bé.; next steamed during 1–2 hours at a pressure of ¹/₂ atmosphere, washed, acidulated, washed and dried. The result is as white a fabric as by the old method with caustic lime, soda, and calcium chloride. The bisulphite may also be replaced by calcium hydrosulphite, and, instead of steaming, the fabric may be boiled for several hours with calcium sulphite.

III.—Bleaching of Vegetable Fibers with Hydrogen Peroxide.—Pass the pieces through a solution containing caustic soda, soap, hydrogen peroxide, and burnt magnesia. The pieces are piled in heaps on carriages; the latter are shoved into the well-known apparatus of Mather & Platt (kier), and the liquid is pumped on for 6 hours, at a pressure of ²/₃ atmosphere. Next wash, acidulate, wash and dry. The bleaching may also be done on an ordinary reeling vat. For 5 pieces are needed about 1,000 parts, by weight, of water; 10 parts, by weight, of solid caustic soda; 1 part of burnt magnesia; 30 parts, by weight, of hydrogen peroxide. After 3–4 hours’ boiling, wash, acidulate, wash and dry. The bleaching may also be performed by passing through barium peroxide, then through sulphuric acid or hydrochloric acid, and next through soda lye. It is practicable also to commence with the latter and finally give a treatment with hydrogen peroxide.

The whiteness obtained by the above process is handsomer than that produced by the old method with hypochlorites, and the fabric is weakened to a less extent.

Tests For Cotton.

I.—Cotton, when freed from extraneous matter by boiling with potash, and afterwards with hydrochloric acid, yields pure cellulose or absorbent cotton, which, according to the U. S. P., is soluble in copper ammonium sulphate solution. The B. P. is more specific and states that cotton is soluble in a concentrated solution of copper ammonium sulphate. The standard test solution (B. P.) is made by dissolving 10 parts of copper sulphate in 160 parts of distilled water, and cautiously adding solution of ammonia to the liquid until the precipitate first formed is nearly dissolved. The product is then filtered and the filtrate made up to 200 parts with distilled {246} water. The concentrated solution is prepared by using a smaller quantity of distilled water.

II.—Schweitzer’s reagent for textile fibers and cellulose is made by dissolving 10 parts of copper sulphate in 100 parts of water and adding a solution of 5 parts of potassium hydrate in 50 parts of water; then wash the precipitate and dissolve in 20 per cent ammonia until saturated. This solution dissolves cotton, linen, and silk, but not wool. The reagent is said to be especially useful in microscopy, as it rapidly dissolves cellulose, but has no action on lignin.

III.—Jandrier’s Test for Cotton in Woolen Fabrics.—Wash the sample of fabric and treat with sulphuric acid (20 Bé.) for half an hour on the water bath. To 100 to 200 parts of this solution add 1 part resorcin, and overlay on concentrated sulphuric acid free from nitrous products. The heat developed is sufficient to give a color at the contact point of the liquids, but intensity of color may be increased by slightly heating. If the product resulting from treating the cotton is made up 1 in 1,000, resorcin will give an orange color; alphanaphtol a purple; gallic acid a green gradually becoming violet down in the acid; hydroquinone or pyrogallol a brown; morphine or codeine, a lavender; thymol or menthol a pink. Cotton may be detected in colored goods, using boneblack to decolorize the solution, if necessary.

IV.—Overbeck’s test for cotton in woolen consists in soaking the fabric in an aqueous solution of alloxantine (1 in 10), and after drying expose to ammonia vapor and rinse in water. Woolen material is colored crimson, cotton remains blue.

V.—Liebermann’s Test.—Dye the fabric for half an hour in fuchsine solution rendered light yellow by caustic soda solution and then washed with water—silk is colored dark red; wool, light red; flax, pink; and cotton remains colorless.

To Distinguish Cotton from Linen.—Take a sample about an inch and a half square of the cloth to be tested and plunge it into a tepid alcoholic solution of cyanine. After the coloring matter has been absorbed by the fiber, rinse it in water and then plunge into dilute sulphuric acid. If it is of cotton the sample will be almost completely bleached, while linen preserves the blue color almost unchanged. If the sample be then plunged in ammonia, the blue will be strongly reinforced.

Aromatic Cotton.

—Aromatic cotton is produced as follows: Mix camphor, 5 parts; pine-leaf oil, 5 parts; clove oil, 5 parts; spirit of wine (90 per cent), 80 parts; and distribute evenly on cotton, 500 parts, by means of an atomizer. The cotton is left pressed together in a tightly closed tin vessel for a few days.

Cotton Degreasing.

—Cotton waste, in a greasy condition, is placed in an acid-proof apparatus, where it is simultaneously freed from grease, etc., and prepared for bleaching by the following process, which is performed without the waste being removed from the apparatus: (1) treatment with a solvent, such as benzine; (2) steaming, for the purpose of vaporizing and expelling from the cotton waste the solvent still remaining in it after as much as possible of this has been recovered by draining; (3) treatment with a mineral acid; (4) boiling with an alkali lye; (5) washing with water.

COTTONSEED HULLS AS STOCK FOOD.

Cottonseed hulls or other material containing fiber difficult of digestion are thoroughly mixed with about 5 per cent of their weight of hydrochloric acid (specific gravity, 1.16), and heated in a closed vessel, provided with a stirrer, to a temperature of 212° to 300° F. The amount of acid to be added depends on the material employed and on the duration of the heating. By heating for 30 minutes the above percentage of acid is required, but the quantity may be reduced if the heating is prolonged. After heating, the substance is ground and at the same time mixed with some basic substances such as sodium carbonate, chalk, cottonseed kernel meal, etc., to neutralize the acid. During the heating, the acid vapors coming from the mixture may be led into a second quantity of material contained in a separate vessel, air being drawn through both vessels to facilitate the removal of the acid vapors.

COTTONSEED OIL: See Oil.

COTTONSEED OIL IN FOOD, TESTS FOR: See Foods.

COTTONSEED OIL IN LARD, DETECTION OF: See Foods and Lard.

COUGH CANDY: See Confectionery.

COUGH MIXTURES FOR CATTLE: See Veterinary Formulas. {247}

COUGH MIXTURES AND REMEDIES: See Cold and Cough Mixtures.

COURT PLASTERS

(See also Plasters.)

Liquid Court Plaster.

—I.—If soluble guncotton is dissolved in acetone in the proportion of about 1 part, by weight, of the former to 35 or 40 parts, by volume, of the latter, and half a part each of castor oil and glycerine be added, a colorless, elastic, and flexible film will form on the skin wherever it is applied. Unlike ordinary collodion it will not be likely to dry and peel off. If tinted very slightly with alkanet and saffron it can be made to assume the color of the skin so that when applied it is scarcely observable. A mixture of warm solution of sodium silicate and casein, about 9 parts of the former to 1 part of the latter, gelatinizes and forms a sort of liquid court plaster.

II.—In order to make liquid court plaster flexible, collodion, U. S. P., is the best liquid that can possibly be recommended. It may be made by weighing successively into a tarred bottle:

Collodion 4 av. ounces

Canada turpentine 95 grains

Castor oil 57 grains

Before applying, the skin should be perfectly dry; each application or layer should be permitted to harden. Three or four coats are usually sufficient.

III.—Procure an ounce bottle and fill it three-fourths full of flexible collodion, and fill up with ether. Apply to cuts, bruises, etc., and it protects them and will not wash off. If the ether evaporates, leaving it too thick for use, have more ether put in to liquefy it. It is a good thing to have in the house and in the tool chest.

COW DISEASES AND THEIR REMEDIES: See Veterinary Formulas.

CRAYONS: See Pencils.

CRAYONS FOR GRAINING AND MARBLING.

Heat 4 parts of water and 1 part of white wax over a fire until the wax has completely dissolved. Stir in 1 part of purified potash. When an intimate combination has taken place, allow to cool and add a proportionate quantity of gum arabic. With this mixture the desired colors are ground thick enough so that they can be conveniently rolled into a pencil with chalk. The desired shades must be composed on the grinding slab as they are wanted, and must not be simply left in their natural tone. Use, for instance, umber, Vandyke brown, and white lead for oak; umber alone would be too dark for walnut use. All the earth colors can be conveniently worked up. It is best to prepare 2 or 3 crayons of each set, mixing the first a little lighter by the addition of white lead and leaving the others a little darker. The pencils should be kept in a dry place and are more suitable for graining and marbling than brushes, since they can be used with either oil or water.

CRAYONS FOR WRITING ON GLASS: See Etching, and Glass.

CREAM

(See also Milk.)

Whipped Cream.

—There are many ways to whip cream. The following is very highly indorsed: Keep the cream on ice until ready to whip. Take 2 earthen vessels about 6 inches in diameter. Into 1 bowl put 1 pint of rich sweet cream, 2 teaspoonfuls powdered sugar, and 5 drops of best vanilla extract. Add the white of 1 egg and beat with large egg beater or use whipping apparatus until 2 inches of froth has formed; skim off the froth into the other vessel and so proceed whipping and skimming until all the cream in the first vessel has been exhausted. The whipped cream will stand up all day and should be let stand in the vessel on ice.

Special machines have been constructed for whipping cream, but most dispensers prepare it with an ordinary egg beater. Genuine whipped cream is nothing other than pure cream into which air has been forced by the action of the different apparatus manufactured for the purpose; care must, however, be exercised in order that butter is not produced instead of whipped cream. To avoid this the temperature of the cream must be kept at a low degree and the whipping must not be too violent or prolonged; hence the following rules must be observed in order to produce the desired result: {248}

1. Secure pure cream and as fresh as possible.

2. Surround the bowl in which the cream is being whipped with cracked ice, and perform the operation in a cool place.

3. As rapidly as the whipped cream arises, skim it off and place it in another bowl, likewise surrounded with ice.

4. Do not whip the cream too long or too violently.

5. The downward motion of the beater should be more forcible than the upward, as the first has a tendency to force the air into the cream, while the second, on the contrary, tends to expel it.

6. A little powdered sugar should be added to the cream after it is whipped, in order to sweeten it.

7. Make whipped cream in small quantities and keep it on ice.

I.—Cummins’s Whipped Cream.—Place 12 ounces of rich cream on the ice for about 1 hour; then with a whipper beat to a consistency that will withstand its own weight.

II.—Eberle’s Whipped Cream.—Take a pint of fresh, sweet cream, which has been chilled by being placed on the ice, add to it a heaping ta­ble­spoon­ful of powdered sugar and 2 ounces of a solution of gelatin (a spoonful dissolved in 2 ounces of water), whip slowly for a minute or two until a heavy froth gathers on top. Skim off the dense froth, and put in container for counter use; continue this until you have frothed all that is possible.

III.—Foy’s Whipped Cream.—Use only pure cream; have it ice cold, and in a convenient dish for whipping with a wire whipper. A clear, easy, quick, and convenient way is to use a beater. Fill about one-half full of cream, and beat vigorously for 2 or 3 minutes; a little powdered sugar may be added before beating. The cream may be left in the beater, and placed on ice.

IV.—American Soda Fountain Company’s Whipped Cream.—Take 2 earthen bowls and 2 tin pans, each 6 or 8 inches greater in diameter than the bowls; place a bowl in each pan, surround it with broken ice, put the cream to be whipped in 1 bowl, and whip it with a whipped cream churn. The cream should be pure and rich, and neither sugar nor gelatin should be added to it. As the whipped cream rises and fills the bowl, remove the churn, and skim off the whipped cream into the other bowl.

The philosophy of the process is that the churn drives air into the cream, and blows an infinity of tiny bubbles, which forms the whipped cream; therefore, in churning, raise the dasher gently and slowly, and bring it down quickly and forcibly. When the second bowl is full of whipped cream, pour off the liquid cream, which has settled to the bottom, into the first bowl, and whip it again. Keep the whipped cream on ice.

The addition of an even teaspoonful of salt to 1 quart of sweet cream, before whipping, will make it whip up very readily and stiff, and stand up much longer and better.

CRESOL EMULSION.

One of the best starting points for the preparation is the “creosote” obtained from blast furnaces, which is rich in cresols and contains comparatively little phenols. The proportions used are: Creosote, 30 parts; soft soap, 10 parts; and solution of soda (10 per cent), 30 parts. Boil the ingredients together for an hour, then place aside to settle. The dark fluid is afterwards drained from any oily portion floating upon the top.

CREAM, COLD: See Cosmetics.

CREAMS FOR THE FACE AND SKIN: See Cosmetics.

CREOSOTE SOAP: See Soap.

CROCKERY: See Ceramics.

CROCKERY CEMENTS: See Adhesives.

CROCUS.

The substance known as “crocus,” which is so exceedingly useful as a polishing medium for steel, etc., may be very generally obtained in the cinders produced from coal containing iron. It will be easily recognized by its rusty color, and should be collected and reduced to a powder for future use. Steel burnishers may be brought to a high state of polish with this substance by rubbing them upon a buff made of soldiers’ belt or hard wood. After this operation, the burnisher should be rubbed on a second buff charged with jewelers’ rouge.

CRYSTAL CEMENTS FOR REUNITING BROKEN PIECES: See Adhesives, under Cements. {249}

CRYSTALLIZATION, ORNAMENTAL: See Gardens, Chemical.

CUCUMBER ESSENCE: See Essences and Extracts.

CUCUMBER JELLY, JUICE, AND MILK: See Cosmetics.

CURAÇOA CORDIAL: See Wines and Liquors.

CURTAINS, COLORING OF: See Laundry Preparations.

CURRY POWDER: See Condiments.

CUSTARD POWDER:

Corn flour 7 pounds

Arrowroot 8 pounds

Oil of almond 20 drops

Oil of nutmegs 10 drops

Tincture of saffron to color.

Mix the tincture with a little of the mixed flours; then add the essential oils and make into a paste; dry this until it can be reduced to a powder, and then mix all the ingredients by sifting several times through a fine hair sieve.

CUTLERY CEMENTS: See Adhesives.

CYLINDER OIL: See Lubricants.

CYMBAL METAL: See Alloys.

DAMASKEENING

Damaskeening, practiced from most ancient times, consists in ornamentally inlaying one metal with another, followed usually by polishing. Generally gold or silver is employed for inlaying. The article to be decorated by damaskeening is usually of iron (steel) or copper; in Oriental (especially Japanese) work, also frequently of bronze, which has been blackened, or, at least, darkened, so that the damaskeening is effectively set off from the ground. If the design consists of lines, the grooves are dug out with the graver in such a manner that they are wider at the bottom, so as to hold the metal forced in. Next, the gold or silver pieces suitably formed are laid on top and hammered in so as to fill up the opening. Finally the surface is gone over again, so that the surface of the inlay is perfectly even with the rest. If the inlays, however, are not in the form of lines, but are composed of larger pieces of certain outlines, they are sometimes allowed to project beyond the surface of the metal decorated. At times there are inlays again in the raised portions of another metal; thus, Japanese bronze articles often contain figures of raised gold inlaid with silver.

Owing to the high value which damaskeening imparts to articles artistically decorated, many attempts have been made to obtain similar effects in a cheaper manner. One is electro-etching, described further on. Another process for the wholesale manufacture of objects closely resembling damaskeened work is the following: By means of a steel punch, on which the decorations to be produced project in relief, the designs are stamped by means of a drop hammer or a stamping press into gold plated or silver plated sheet metal on the side which is to show the damaskeening, finally grinding off the surface, so that the sunken portions are again level. Naturally, the stamped portion, as long as the depth of the stamping is at least equal to the thickness of the precious metal on top, will appear inlaid.

It is believed that much of the early damaskeening was done by welding together iron and either a steel or an impure or alloyed iron, and treating the surface with a corroding acid that affected the steel or alloy without changing the iron.

The variety or damaskeening known as koftgari or kuft-work, practiced in India, was produced by rough-etching a metallic surface and laying on gold-leaf, which was imbedded so that it adhered only to the etched parts of the design.

Damaskeening By Electrolysis.

—Damaskeening of metallic plates may be done by electrolysis. A copper plate is covered with an isolating layer of feeble thickness, such as wax, and the desired design is scratched in it by the use of a pointed tool. The plate is suspended in a bath of sulphate of copper, connecting it with the positive pole of a battery, while a second copper plate is connected with the negative pole. The current etches grooves wherever the wax has been removed. When enough has

{250}

been eaten away, remove the plate from the bath, cleanse it with a little hydrochloric acid to remove any traces of oxide of copper which might appear on the lines of the design; then wash it in plenty of water and place it in a bath of silver or nickel, connecting it now with the negative pole, the positive pole being represented by a leaf of platinum. After a certain time the hollows are completely filled with a deposit of silver or nickel, and it only remains to polish the plate, which has the appearance of a piece damaskeened by hand.

Damaskeening On Enamel Dials.

—Dip the dial into molten yellow wax, trace on the dial the designs desired, penetrating down to the enamel. Dip the dial in a fluorhydric acid a sufficient length of time that it may eat to the desired depth. Next, wash in several waters, remove the wax by means of turpentine, i. e., leave the piece covered with wax immersed in essence of turpentine. By filling up the hollows thus obtained with enamel very pretty effects are produced.

DANDRUFF CURE: See Hair Preparations.

DECALCOMANIA PROCESSES:

See also Chromos, Copying Processes, and Transfer Processes.

The decalcomania process of transferring pictures requires that the print (usually in colors) be made on a specially prepared paper. Prints made on decalcomania paper may be transferred in the reverse to china ware, wood, celluloid, metal, or any hard smooth surface, and being varnished after transfer (or burnt in, in the case of pottery) acquire a fair degree of permanence. The original print is destroyed by the transfer.

Applying Decalcomania Pictures On Ceramic Products Under A Glaze.

—A biscuit-baked object is first coated with a mixture of alcohol, shellac, varnish, and liquid glue. Then the prepared picture print is transferred on to this adhesive layer in the customary manner. The glaze, however, does not adhere to this coating and would, therefore, not cover the picture when fused on. To attain this, the layer bearing the transfer picture, as well as the latter, are simultaneously coated with a dextrin solution of about 10 per cent. When this dextrin coating is dry, the picture is glazed. The mixing proportions of the two solutions employed, as well as of the adhesive and the dextrin solutions, vary somewhat according to the physical conditions of the porcelain, its porosity, etc. The following may serve for an example: Dissolve 5 parts of shellac or equivalent gum in 25 parts of spirit and emulsify this liquid with 20 parts of varnish and 8 parts of liquid glue. After drying, the glaze is put on and the ware thus prepared is placed in the grate fire.

The process described is especially adapted for film pictures, i. e., for such as bear the picture on a cohering layer, usually consisting of collodion. It cannot be employed outright for gum pictures, i. e., for such pictures as are composed of different pressed surfaces, consisting mainly of gum or similar material. If this process is to be adapted to these pictures as well, the ware, which has been given the biscuit baking, is first provided with a crude glaze coating, whereupon the details of the process are carried out as described above with the exception that there is another glaze coating between the adhesive coat and the biscuit-baked ware. In this case the article is also immediately placed in the grate fire. It is immaterial which of the two kinds of metachromatypes (transfer pictures) is used, in every case the baking in the muffle, etc., is dropped. The transfer pictures may also be produced in all colors for the grate fire.

Decalcomania Paper.

—Smooth unsized paper, not too thick, is coated with the following solutions:

I.—Gelatin, 10 parts, dissolved in 300 parts warm water. This solution is applied with a sponge. The paper should be dried flat.

II.—Starch, 50 parts; gum tragacanth, dissolved in 600 parts of water. (The gum tragacanth is soaked in 300 parts of water; in the other 300 parts the starch is boiled to a paste; the two are then poured together and boiled.) The dried paper is brushed with this paste uniformly, a fairly thick coat being applied. The paper is then allowed to dry again.

III.—One part blood albumen is soaked in 3 parts water for 24 hours. A small quantity of sal ammoniac is added.

The paper, after having been coated with these three solutions and dried, is run through the printing press, the pictures, however, being printed reversed so that it may appear in its true position when transferred. Any colored inks may be used. {251}

IV.—A transfer paper, known as “décalque rapide,” invented by J. B. Duramy, consists of a paper of the kind generally used for making pottery transfers, but coated with a mixture of gum and arrowroot solutions in the proportion of 2 ¹/₂ parts of the latter to 100 of the former. The coating is applied in the ordinary manner, but the paper is only semi-glazed. Furthermore, to decorate pottery ware by means of this new transfer paper, there is no need to immerse the ware in a bath in order to get the paper to draw off, as it will come away when moistened with a damp sponge, after having been in position for less than 5 minutes, whereas the ordinary papers require a much longer time.

Picture Transferrer.

—A very weak solution of soft soap and pearlashes is used to transfer recent prints, such as illustrations from papers, magazines, etc., to unglazed paper, on the decalcomania principle. Such a solution is:

I.— Soft soap ¹/₂ ounce

Pearlash 2 drachms

Distilled water 16 fluidounces

The print is laid upon a flat surface, such as a drawing board, and moistened with the liquid. The paper on which the reproduction is required is laid over this, and then a sheet of thicker paper placed on the top, and the whole rubbed evenly and hard with a blunt instrument, such as the bowl of a spoon, until the desired depth of color in the transferrer is obtained. Another and more artistic process is to cover the print with a transparent sheet of material coated with wax, to trace out the pictures with a point and to take rubbings of the same after powdering with plumbago.

II.— Hard soap 1 drachm

Glycerine 30 grains

Alcohol 4 fluidrachms

Water 1 fluidounce

Dampen the printed matter with the solution by sponging, and proceed as with I.

DEHORNERS: See Horn.

DELTA METAL: See Alloys.

DEMON BOWLS OF FIRE: See Pyrotechnics.

DENTAL CEMENTS: See Cements.

DENTIFRICES

Tooth Powders:

A perfect tooth powder that will clean the teeth and mouth with thoroughness need contain but few ingredients and is easily made. For the base there is nothing better than precipitated chalk; it possesses all the detergent and polishing properties necessary for the thorough cleansing of the teeth, and it is too soft to do any injury to soft or to defective or thinly enameled teeth. This cannot be said of pumice, cuttlebone, charcoal, kieselguhr, and similar abradants that are used in tooth powders. Their use is reprehensible in a tooth powder. The use of pumice or other active abradant is well enough occasionally, by persons afflicted with a growth of tartar on the teeth, but even then it is best applied by a competent dentist. Abrading powders have much to answer for in hastening the day of the toothless race.

Next in value comes soap. Powdered white castile soap is usually an ingredient of tooth powders. There is nothing so effective for removing sordes or thickened mucus from the gums or mouth. But used alone or in too large proportions, the taste is unpleasant. Orris possesses no cleansing properties, but is used for its flavor and because it is most effective for masking the taste of the soap. Sugar or saccharine may be used for sweetening, and for flavoring almost anything can be used. Flavors should, in the main, be used singly, though mixed flavors lack the clean taste of simple flavors.

The most popular tooth powder sold is the white, saponaceous, wintergreen-flavored powder, and here is a formula for this type:

I.— Precipitated chalk 1 pound

White castile soap 1 ounce

Florentine orris 2 ounces

Sugar (or saccharine, 2 grains) 1 ounce

Oil of wintergreen ¹/₄ ounce

The first four ingredients should be in the finest possible powder and well dried. Triturate the oil of wintergreen with part of the chalk, and mix this with the balance of the chalk. Sift each ingredient separately through a sieve (No. 80 or finer), and mix well together, afterwards sifting the mixture 5 or 6 times. The finer the sieve and the more the mixture is sifted, the finer and lighter the powder will be. {252}

This powder will cost about 15 cents a pound.

Pink, rose-flavored powder of the Caswell and Hazard, Hudnut, or McMahan type, once so popular in New York. It was made in two styles, with and without soap.

II.— Precipitated chalk 1 pound

Florentine orris 2 ounces

Sugar 1 ¹/₂ ounces

White castile soap 1 ounce

No. 40 carmine 15 grains

Oil of rose 12 drops

Oil of cloves 4 drops

Dissolve the carmine in an ounce of water of ammonia and triturate this with part of the chalk until the chalk is uniformly dyed. Then spread it in a thin layer on a sheet of paper and allow the ammonia to evaporate. When there is no ammoniacal odor left, mix this dyed chalk with the rest of the chalk and sift the whole several times until thoroughly mixed. Then proceed to make up the powder as in the previous formula, first sifting each ingredient separately and then together, being careful thoroughly to triturate the oils of rose and cloves with the orris after it is sifted and before it is added to the other powders. The oil of cloves is used to back up the oil of rose. It strengthens and accentuates the rose odor. Be careful not to get a drop too much, or it will predominate over the rose.

Violet Tooth Powder.—

Precipitated chalk 1 pound

Florentine orris 4 ounces

Castile soap 1 ounce

Sugar 1 ¹/₂ ounces

Extract of violet ¹/₄ ounce

Evergreen coloring, R. & F., quantity sufficient.

Proceed as in the second formula, dyeing the chalk with the evergreen coloring to the desired shade before mixing.

III.— Precipitated chalk 16 pounds

Powdered orris 4 pounds

Powdered cuttlefish bone 2 pounds

Ultramarine 9 ¹/₂ ounces

Geranium lake 340 grains

Jasmine 110 minims

Oil of neroli 110 minims

Oil of bitter almonds 35 minims

Vanillin 50 grains

Artificial musk (Lautier’s) 60 grains

Saccharine 140 grains

Rub up the perfumes with 2 ounces of alcohol, dissolve the saccharine in warm water, add all to the orris, and set aside to dry. Rub the colors up with water and some chalk, and when dry pass all through a mixer and sifter twice to bring out the color.

Camphorated And Carbolated Powders.—A camphorated tooth powder may be made by leaving out the oil of wintergreen in the first formula and adding 1 ¹/₂ ounces of powdered camphor.

Carbolated tooth powder may likewise be made with the first formula by substituting 2 drachms of liquefied carbolic acid for the oil of wintergreen. But the tooth powder gradually loses the odor and taste of the acid. It is not of much utility anyway, as the castile soap in the powder is of far greater antiseptic power than the small amount of carbolic acid that can safely be combined in a tooth powder. Soap is one of the best antiseptics.

Alkaline salts, borax, sodium bicarbonate, etc., are superfluous in a powder already containing soap. The only useful purpose they might serve is to correct acidity of the mouth, and that end can be reached much better by rinsing the mouth with a solution of sodium bicarbonate. Acids have no place in tooth powders, the French Codex to the contrary notwithstanding.

Peppermint As A Flavor.—In France and all over Europe peppermint is the popular flavor, as wintergreen is in this country.

English apothecaries use sugar of milk and heavy calcined magnesia in many of their tooth powders. Neither has any particular virtue as a tooth cleanser, but both are harmless. Cane sugar is preferable to milk sugar as a sweetener, and saccharine is more efficient, though objected to by some; it should be used in the proportion of 2 to 5 grains to the pound of powder, and great care taken to have it thoroughly distributed throughout.

An antiseptic tooth powder, containing the antiseptic ingredients of listerine, is popular in some localities.

IV.— Precipitated chalk 1 pound

Castile soap 5 drachms

Borax 3 drachms

Thymol 20 grains

Menthol 20 grains

Eucalyptol 20 grains

Oil of wintergreen 20 grains

Alcohol ¹/₂ ounce

Dissolve the thymol and oils in the alcohol, and triturate with the chalk, and proceed as in the first formula. {253}

One fault with this powder is the disagreeable taste of the thymol. This may be omitted and the oil of wintergreen increased to the improvement of the taste, but with some loss of antiseptic power.

Antiseptic Powder.—

V.— Boric acid 50 parts

Salicylic acid 50 parts

Dragon’s blood 20 parts

Calcium carbonate 1,000 parts

Essence spearmint 12 parts

Reduce the dragon’s blood and calcium carbonate to the finest powder, and mix the ingredients thoroughly. The powder should be used twice a day, or even oftener, in bad cases. It is especially recommended in cases where the enamel has become eroded from the effects of iron.

Menthol Tooth Powder.—Menthol leaves a cool and pleasant sensation in the mouth, and is excellent for fetid breath. It may be added to most formulas by taking an equal quantity of oil of wintergreen and dissolving in alcohol.

Menthol 1 part

Salol 8 parts

Soap, grated fine 20 parts

Calcium carbonate 20 parts

Magnesia carbonate 60 parts

Essential oil of mint 2 parts

Powder finely and mix. If there is much tartar on the teeth it will be well to add to this formula from 10 to 20 parts of pumice, powdered very finely.

Tooth Powders And Pastes.—Although the direct object of these is to keep the teeth clean and white, they also prevent decay, if it is only by force of mere cleanliness, and in this way (and also by removing decomposing particles of food) tend to keep the breath sweet and wholesome. The necessary properties of a tooth powder are cleansing power unaccompanied by any abrading or chemical action on the teeth themselves, a certain amount of antiseptic power to enable it to deal with particles of stale food, and a complete absence of any disagreeable taste or smell. These conditions are easy to realize in practice, and there is a very large number of efficient and good powders, as well as not a few which are apt to injure the teeth if care is not taken to rinse out the mouth very thoroughly after using. These powders include some of the best cleansers, and have hence been admitted in the following recipes, mostly taken from English collections.

I.—Charcoal and sugar, equal weights. Mix and flavor with clove oil.

II.— Charcoal 156 parts

Red kino 156 parts

Sugar 6 parts

Flavor with peppermint oil

III.— Charcoal 270 parts

Sulphate of quinine 1 part

Magnesia 1 part

Scent to liking.

IV.— Charcoal 30 parts

Cream of tartar 8 parts

Yellow cinchona bark 4 parts

Sugar 15 parts

Scent with oil of cloves.

V.— Sugar 120 parts

Alum 10 parts

Cream of tartar 20 parts

Cochineal 3 parts

VI.— Cream of tartar 1,000 parts

Alum 190 parts

Carbonate of magnesia 375 parts

Sugar 375 parts

Cochineal 75 parts

Essence Ceylon cinnamon 90 parts

Essence cloves 75 parts

Essence English peppermint 45 parts

VII.— Sugar 200 parts

Cream of tartar 400 parts

Magnesia 400 parts

Starch 400 parts

Cinnamon 32 parts

Mace 11 parts

Sulphate of quinine 16 parts

Carmine 17 parts

Scent with oil of peppermint and oil of rose.

VIII.— Bleaching powder 11 parts

Red coral 12 parts

IX.— Red cinchona bark 12 parts

Magnesia 50 parts

Cochineal 9 parts

Alum 6 parts

Cream of tartar 100 parts

English peppermint oil 4 parts

Cinnamon oil 2 parts

Grind the first five ingredients separately, then mix the alum with the cochineal, and then add to it the cream of tartar and the bark. In the meantime the magnesia is mixed with the essential oils, and finally the whole mass is mixed through a very fine silk sieve.

X.— Whitewood charcoal 250 parts

Cinchona bark 125 parts

Sugar 250 parts

Peppermint oil 12 parts

Cinnamon oil 8 parts

XI.— Precipitated chalk 750 parts

Cream of tartar 250 parts

Florence orris root 250 parts

Sal ammoniac 60 parts

Ambergris 4 parts

Cinnamon 4 parts

Coriander 4 parts

Cloves 4 parts

Rosewood 4 parts

XII.— Dragon’s blood 250 parts

Cream of tartar 30 parts

Florence orris root 30 parts

Cinnamon 16 parts

Cloves 8 parts

XIII.— Precipitated chalk 500 parts

Dragon’s blood 250 parts

Red sandalwood 125 parts

Alum 125 parts

Orris root 250 parts

Cloves 15 parts

Cinnamon 15 parts

Vanilla 8 parts

Rosewood 15 parts

Carmine lake 250 parts

Carmine 8 parts

XIV.— Cream of tartar 150 parts

Alum 25 parts

Cochineal 12 parts

Cloves 25 parts

Cinnamon 25 parts

Rosewood 6 parts

Scent with essence of rose.

XV.— Coral 20 parts

Sugar 20 parts

Wood charcoal 6 parts

Essence of vervain 1 part

XVI.— Precipitated chalk 500 parts

Orris root 500 parts

Carmine 1 part

Sugar 1 part

Essence of rose 4 parts

Essence of neroli 4 parts

XVII.— Cinchona bark 50 parts

Chalk 100 parts

Myrrh 50 parts

Orris root 100 parts

Cinnamon 50 parts

Carbonate of ammonia 100 parts

Oil of cloves. 2 parts

XVIII.— Gum arabic 30 parts

Cutch 80 parts

Licorice juice 550 parts

Cascarilla 20 parts

Mastic 20 parts

Orris root 20 parts

Oil of cloves 5 parts

Oil of peppermint 15 parts

Extract of amber 5 parts

Extract of musk 5 parts

XIX.— Chalk 200 parts

Cuttlebone 100 parts

Orris root 100 parts

Bergamot oil 2 parts

Lemon oil 4 parts

Neroli oil 1 part

Portugal oil 2 parts

XX.— Borax 50 parts

Chalk 100 parts

Myrrh 25 parts

Orris root 22 parts

Cinnamon 25 parts

XXI.— Wood charcoal 30 parts

White honey 30 parts

Vanilla sugar 30 parts

Cinchona bark 16 parts

Flavor with oil of peppermint.

XXII.— Syrup of 33° B. 38 parts

Cuttlebone 200 parts

Carmine lake 30 parts

English oil of peppermint 5 parts

XXIII.— Red coral 50 parts

Cinnamon 12 parts

Cochineal 6 parts

Alum 2 ¹/₈ parts

Honey 125 parts

Water 6 parts

Triturate the cochineal and the alum with the water. Then, after allowing them to stand for 24 hours, put in the honey, the coral, and the cinnamon. When the effervescence has ceased, which happens in about 48 hours, flavor with essential oils to taste.

XXIV.— Well-skimmed honey 50 parts

Syrup of peppermint 50 parts

Orris root 12 parts

Sal ammoniac 12 parts

Cream of tartar 12 parts

Tincture of cinnamon 3 parts

Tincture of cloves 3 parts

Tincture of vanilla 3 parts

Oil of cloves 1 part

XXV.— Cream of tartar 120 parts

Pumice 120 parts

Alum 30 parts

Cochineal 30 parts

Bergamot oil 3 parts

Clove 3 parts

Make to a thick paste with honey or sugar.

XXVI.— Honey 250 parts

Precipitated chalk 250 parts

Orris root 250 parts

Tincture of opium 7 parts

Tincture of myrrh 7 parts

Oil of rose 2 parts

Oil of cloves 2 parts

Oil of nutmeg 2 parts

XXVII.— Florentine orris 6 parts

Magnesium carbonate 2 parts

Almond soap 12 parts

Calcium carbonate 60 parts

Thymol 1 part

Alcohol, quantity sufficient.

Powder the solids and mix. Dissolve the thymol in as little alcohol as possible, and add perfume in a mixture in equal parts of oil of peppermint, oil of clove, oil of lemon, and oil of eucalyptus. About 1 minim of each to every ounce of powder will be sufficient.

XXVIII.—Myrrh, 10 parts; sodium chloride, 10 parts; soot, 5 parts; soap, 5 parts; lime carbonate, 500 parts.

XXIX.—Camphor, 5 parts; soap, 10 parts; saccharine, 0.25 parts; thymol, 0.5 parts; lime carbonate, 500 parts. Scent, as desired, with rose oil, sassafras oil, wintergreen oil, or peppermint oil.

XXX.—Powdered camphor, 6 parts; myrrh, 15 parts; powdered Peruvian bark, 6 parts; distilled water, 12 parts; alcohol of 80° F., 50 parts. Macerate the powders in the alcohol for a week and then filter.

XXXI.—Soap, 1; saccharine. 0.025; thymol, 0.05; lime carbonate, 50; sassafras essence, enough to perfume.

XXXII.—Camphor, 0.5; soap, 1; saccharine, 0.025; calcium carbonate, 50; oil of sassafras, or cassia, or of gaultheria, enough to perfume.

XXXIII.—Myrrh, 1; sodium chloride, 1; soap, 50; lime carbonate, 50; rose oil as required.

XXXIV.—Precipitated calcium carbonate, 60 parts; quinine sulphate, 2 parts; saponine, 0.1 part; saccharine, 0.1 part; carmine as required; oil of peppermint, sufficient.

XXXV.—Boracic acid, 100 parts; powdered starch, 50 parts; quinine hydrochlorate, 10 parts; saccharine, 1 part; vanillin (dissolved in alcohol), 1.5 parts.

Neutral Tooth Powder.—Potassium chlorate, 200 parts; starch, 200 parts; carmine lake, 40 parts; saccharine (in alcoholic solution), 1 part; vanillin (dissolved in alcohol), 1 part.

Tooth Powder For Children.—

Magnesia carbonate 10 parts

Medicinal soap 10 parts

Sepia powder 80 parts

Peppermint oil, quantity sufficient to flavor.

Flavorings For Dentifrice.—

I.— Sassafras oil, true 1 drachm

Pinus pumilio oil 20 minims

Bitter orange oil 20 minims

Wintergreen oil 2 minims

Anise oil 4 minims

Rose geranium oil 1 minim

Alcohol 1 ounce

Use according to taste.

II.— Oil of peppermint, English 4 parts

Oil of aniseed 6 parts

Oil of clove 1 part

Oil of cinnamon 1 part

Saffron 1 part

Deodorized alcohol 350 parts

Water 300 parts

Or, cassia, 4 parts, and vanilla, ¹/₂ part, may be substituted for the saffron.

Liquid Dentifrices And Tooth Washes:

A French Dentifrice.—I.—A preparation which has a reputation in France as a liquid dentifrice is composed of alcohol, 96 per cent, 1,000 parts; Mitcham peppermint oil, 30 parts; aniseed oil, 5 parts; oil of Acorus calamus, 0.5 parts. Finely powdered cochineal and cream of tartar, 5 parts each, are used to tint the solution. The mixed ingredients are set aside for 14 days before filtering.

Sozodont.—

II.—The liquid tooth preparation “Sozodont” is said to contain: Soap powder, 60 parts; glycerine, 60 parts; alcohol, 360 parts; water, 220 parts; oils of peppermint, of aniseed, of clover, and of cinnamon, 1 part each; oil of wintergreen, 1–200 part.

III.— Thymol 2 grains

Benzoic acid 24 grains

Tincture eucalyptus 2 drachms

Alcohol quantity sufficient to make 2 ounces.

Mix. Sig.: A teaspoonful diluted with half a wineglassful of water.

IV.— Carbolic acid, pure 2 ounces

Glycerine, 1,260° 1 ounce

Oil wintergreen 6 drachms

Oil cinnamon 3 drachms

Powdered cochineal ¹/₂ drachm

S. V. R 40 ounces

Distilled water 40 ounces

Dissolve the acid in the glycerine with the aid of a gentle heat and the essential oils in the spirit; mix together, and add the water and cochineal; then let the preparation stand for a week and filter.

A mixture of caramel and cochineal coloring, N. F., gives an agreeable red color for saponaceous tooth washes. It is not permanent, however.

Variations of this formula follow:

V.— White castile soap 1 ounce

Tincture of asarum 2 drachms

Oil of peppermint ¹/₂ drachm

Oil of wintergreen ¹/₂ drachm

Oil of cloves 5 drops

Oil of cassia 5 drops

Glycerine 4 ounces

Alcohol 14 ounces

Water 14 ounces

VI.— White castile soap 1 ¹/₂ ounces

Oil of orange 10 minims

Oil of cassia 5 minims

Oil of wintergreen 15 minims

Glycerine 3 ounces

Alcohol 8 ounces

Water enough to make 1 quart.

VII.— White castile soap 3 ounces

Glycerine 5 ounces

Water 20 ounces

Alcohol 30 ounces

Oil of peppermint 1 drachm

Oil of wintergreen 1 drachm

Oil of orange peel 1 drachm

Oil of anise 1 drachm

Oil of cassia 1 drachm

Beat up the soap with the glycerine; dissolve the oils in the alcohol and add to the soap and glycerine. Stir well until the soap is completely dissolved.

VIII.— White castile soap 1 ounce

Orris root 4 ounces

Rose leaves 4 ounces

Oil of rose ¹/₂ drachm

Oil of neroli ¹/₂ drachm

Cochineal ¹/₂ ounce

Diluted alcohol 2 quarts

If the wash is intended simply as an elixir for sweetening the breath, the following preparation, resembling the celebrated eau de botot, will be found very desirable:

IX.— Oil of peppermint 30 minims

Oil of spearmint 15 minims

Oil of cloves 5 minims

Oil of red cedar wood 60 minims

Tincture of myrrh 1 ounce

Alcohol 1 pint

Care must be taken not to confound the oil of cedar tops with the oil of cedar wood. The former has an odor like turpentine; the latter has the fragrance of the red cedar wood.

For a cleansing wash, a solution of soap is to be recommended. It may be made after the following formula:

X.— White castile soap 1 ounce

Alcohol 6 ounces

Glycerine 4 ounces

Hot water 6 ounces

Oil of peppermint 15 minims

Oil of wintergreen 20 minims

Oil of cloves 5 minims

Extract of vanilla ¹/₂ ounce

Dissolve the soap in the hot water and add the glycerine and extract of vanilla. Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, mix the solutions, and after 24 hours filter through paper. {257}

It is customary to color such preparations. An agreeable brown-yellow tint may be given by the addition of a small quantity of caramel. A red color may be given by cochineal. The color will fade, but will be found reasonably permanent when kept from strong light.

Tooth Soaps And Pastes:

Tooth Soaps.—

I.— White castile soap 225 parts

Precipitated chalk 225 parts

Orris root 225 parts

Oil of peppermint 7 parts

Oil of cloves 4 parts

Water, a sufficient quantity.

II.— Castile soap 100 drachms

Precipitated chalk 100 drachms

Powdered orris root 100 drachms

White sugar 50 drachms

Rose water 50 drachms

Oil of cloves 100 drops

Oil of peppermint 3 drachms

Dissolve the soap in water, add the rose water, then rub up with the sugar with which the oils have been previously triturated, the orris root and the precipitated chalk.

III.—Potassium chlorate, 20 drachms; powdered white soap, 10 drachms; precipitated chalk, 20 drachms; peppermint oil, 15 drops; clove oil, 5 drops; glycerine, sufficient to mass. Use with a soft brush.

Saponaceous Tooth Pastes.—

I.— Precipitated carbonate of lime 90 parts

Soap powder 30 parts

Ossa sepia, powdered 15 parts

Tincture of cocaine 45 parts

Oil of peppermint 6 parts

Oil of ylang-ylang 0.3 parts

Glycerine 30 parts

Rose water to cause liquefaction. Carmine solution to color.

II.— Precipitated carbonate of lime 150 parts

Soap powder 45 parts

Arrowroot 45 parts

Oil of eucalyptus 2 parts

Oil of peppermint 1 part

Oil of geranium 1 part

Oil of cloves 0.25 parts

Oil of aniseed 0.25 parts

Glycerine 45 parts

Chloroform water to cause liquefaction. Carmine solution to color.

Cherry Tooth Paste.—

III.— Clarified honey 100 drachms

Precipitated chalk 100 drachms

Powdered orris root 100 drachms

Powdered rose leaves 60 drops

Oil of cloves 55 drops

Oil of mace 55 drops

Oil of geranium 55 drops

Chinese Tooth Paste.—

IV.— Powdered pumice 100 drachms

Starch 20 drachms

Oil of peppermint 40 drops

Carmine ¹/₄ drachm

Eucalyptus Paste.—Forty drachms precipitated chalk, 11 drachms soap powder, 11 drachms wheaten starch, ¹/₄ drachm carmine, 30 drops oil of peppermint, 30 drops oil of geranium, 60 drops eucalyptus oil, 2 drops oil of cloves, 12 drops oil of anise mixed together and incorporated to a paste, with a mixture of equal parts of glycerine and spirit.

Myrrh Tooth Paste.—

Precipitated chalk 8 ounces

Orris 8 ounces

White castile soap 2 ounces

Borax 2 ounces

Myrrh 1 ounce

Glycerine, quantity sufficient.

Color and perfume to suit.

A thousand grams of levigated powdered oyster shells are rubbed up with 12 drachms of cochineal to a homogeneous powder. To this is added 1 drachm of potassium permanganate and 1 drachm boric acid and rubbed well up. Foam up 200 drachms castile soap and 5 drachms chemically pure glycerine and mix it with the foregoing mass, adding by teaspoonful 150 grams of boiling strained honey. The whole mass is again thoroughly rubbed up, adding while doing so 200 drops honey. Finally the mass should be put into a mortar and pounded for an hour and then kneaded with the hands for 2 hours.

Tooth Paste to be put in Collapsible Tubes.—

Calcium carbonate, levigated 100 parts

Cuttlefish bone, in fine powder 25 parts

Castile soap, old white, powdered 25 parts

Tincture of carmine, ammoniated 4 parts

Simple syrup 25 parts

Menthol 2 parts

Alcohol 5 parts

Attar of rose or other perfume, quantity sufficient.

Rose water sufficient to make a paste.

Beat the soap with a little rose water, then warm until softened, add syrup and tincture of carmine. Dissolve the perfume and menthol in the alcohol and add to soap mixture. Add the solids and incorporate thoroughly. Finally, work to a proper consistency for filling into collapsible tubes, adding water, if necessary.

Mouth Washes.

I.— Quillaia bark 125 parts

Glycerine 95 parts

Alcohol 155 parts

Macerate for 4 days and add:

Acid. carbol. cryst 4 parts

Ol. geranii 0.6 parts

Ol. caryophyll 0.6 parts

Ol. rosæ 0.6 parts

Ol. cinnam 0.6 parts

Tinct. ratanhæ 45 parts

Aqua rosæ 900 parts

Macerate again for 4 days and filter.

Thymol 20 parts

Peppermint oil 10 parts

Clove oil 5 parts

Sage oil 5 parts

Marjoram oil 3 parts

Sassafras oil 3 parts

Wintergreen oil 0.5 parts

Coumarin 0.5 parts

Alcohol, dil. 1,000 parts

A teaspoonful in a glass of water.

II.— Tincture orris (1 in 4) 1 ¹/₂ parts