"Sport and Travel in South Africa" (continued 7)

Can we then pass these grand old trees with indifference, or look upon their huge trunks—which measure over 107 feet in circumference—without emotion, the branches of which at mid-day would shelter from the sun a regiment of soldiers? But these are not the only trees that grace the primeval forests of Africa; there are many varieties, dating back many thousand years from their birth, that are grand objects in the landscape, and complete a picture of forest scenery that few can realise who have not visited these ancient and glorious old forests, which, if they could speak, could tell wondrous tales of scenes unknown to man.

Chapter Twenty.

South Central Africa—Its territorial divisions and boundaries. The River System and their Basins.

This extensive region is bounded on the south by the Cape Colony and the Orange Free States; the Orange river by the former, and the Vaal river from the fountain-head down to where it enters the Orange, in 29 degrees 10 minutes South latitude, 23 degrees 47 minutes East longitude, by the latter State, with the exception of a portion of Griqualand West, which extends beyond those two rivers, and forms part of the above region. The Orange enters the South Atlantic in 28 degrees 40 minutes South latitude, 16 degrees 25 minutes East longitude, and up to the junction of the Vaal is the boundary of the Cape Colony and South Central Africa, which extends northwards up to the basin of the Congo, a distance of 1400 miles, and in width, from the South Atlantic to the Indian Ocean, in the northern part 1800 miles, the extreme south 1100 miles, an area of over 2,000,000 square miles, divided into divisions or territories, ruled over by independent chiefs, and will be dealt with under their respective heads. Great Namaqua and Damaralands embrace the whole of the west coast-line, from the Orange river northwards to the Qunene river, the boundary of the Portuguese settlement of Benguela and Angola, a coast-line of 730 miles. The remaining portion by the Portuguese settlement, the eastern coast, extends from the south side of Delagoa Bay, and the southern extremity of the Portuguese settlement, to the mouth of the Zambese river, on to Quilimain, a Portuguese port on the north, a distance of coast-line of 700 miles, up to the boundary of the Congo Confederation.

This vast area is divided into three separate watersheds, the most important one divides the waters of the South Atlantic from the Indian Ocean. This watershed commences at the extreme southern point on the Drakensberg mountain in Natal, 10,000 feet in altitude, following that range round to New Scotland, 6100 feet in altitude, in the Transvaal, then turns west, along the high veldt between Potchefstroom and Pretoria, 6300 feet, to the north of Lichtenburg, a town in the same State, 6100 feet, then in a north-west direction through a portion of Bechuanaland, the Kalahara desert, to Ovampoland, 4300 in altitude, on to Benguela, the Portuguese settlement on the west coast. All on the west of this shed the country is drained by the Orange and Vaal rivers and their tributaries, and the Swakop and other small streams in Damaraland, into the South Atlantic Ocean. The second watershed commences on the high land, 4260 feet in altitude, half-way through the desert, in 23 degrees 40 minutes South latitude, 23 degrees 20 minutes East longitude, takes a north-east direction, passing on the east side of the great brak vlei Makarakara, along the granite range of the Molopo in Matabeleland, on to the Lobolo mountain, 4500 feet in altitude, near the Zambese river, 300 miles from its mouth. The above river and its tributaries drain the country on the north of this watershed, and is called the Zambese basin; on the south side it is drained by the Limpopo river and its tributaries, called the Limpopo basin; both rivers discharge themselves into the Indian Ocean. These three large rivers, the Orange, Zambese, and Limpopo, with their branches, with the exception of a small portion of great Namaqua and Damaralands on the west coast, and also part of Umzela’s territory and the Transvaal by Delagoa Bay on the east coast, drain nearly 2,000,000 square miles of South Central Africa. The Orange, south of the above region, with its tributaries, drain the Orange Free State, and part of the Cape Colony, to the extent of 170,000 square miles in addition. Each of these river systems I propose to describe, as they form the principal geographical features, previous to going more into the detail of the several territories ruled over by independent chiefs.

The Zambese System, Covering an Area of 860,000 Square Miles.

The entire length of this river, from the fountain-head to its mouth in the Indian Ocean, south of Mozambique, is 1550 miles. The small lake Dilolo, in 11 degrees 30 minutes South latitude, 23 degrees 0 minutes East longitude, situated in the Lololala region, and within a few miles of the upper springs of the Kuana, a branch of the Congo; and from thence falls south and south-east, through Lui Banda, Barotsi, Makololo, Banyeti, and other tribes, with its many branches, to the Victoria Falls, and then on to the sea in an easterly direction. The other important tributaries, taking their rise in the region west of the above, are the Chobe, Quito, Cubango or Okavango, and many branches in the country of the Kimbandi and Bunda; the source of the Cubango or Okavango is but a short distance from the upper springs of the river Quanza, that passes through Angola to the South Atlantic, and belongs to the Portuguese. The Chobe takes a winding course south, through a level and swampy country, full of jungle, past a Kaffir kraal, Matambaya, to within seventy miles to the west of Linyanti; past that chief’s kraal, in an easterly and north-easterly direction, it enters the Zambese thirty-seven miles above the Victoria Falls. The Chobe is a large and broad river with several rapids. There are many streams and laagte which intersect this extensive and swampy region.

It is a most unhealthy and sickly country, whence it has obtained the name of the Fever District. The Cubango river: the source of this river also flows south 19 degrees 10 minutes South latitude, 15 degrees 0 minutes East longitude, the altitude was 3370 feet above sea-level; from that station the river runs in a south-east direction for fifty-five miles to Libebe kraal, then in an easterly course winding through the desert for sixty-five miles to Debabe’s kraal, 17 degrees 22 minutes South latitude, 21 degrees 30 minutes East longitude. Thirty miles below my station the river Quito joins, which forms a broad and fine stream. At Debabe’s the river turns south-south-east, and receives a new name, the Tonga; one portion flowing into the Chobe; the other continuing, with many turns and windings, for 220 miles, finally entering the north-west corner of Lake N’gami at an altitude of 2813 feet, receiving in its course the Laagte Okayanka that rises in Ovarapoland at Chambomba vlei, 3900 feet above sea-level, flowing east, and enters the Tonga 110 miles below Debabe town, where the country is full of swamps, with outlets into the Mababe river. Lake N’gami is forty-five miles long when full, and about ten miles in width, very shallow, and is getting less every year. The western end is in 20 degrees 25 minutes South latitude, 22 degrees 38 minutes East longitude. There are several small streams which flow into it in the rainy season. On the eastern side the Zouga river joins it, sometimes flowing into it, and sometimes out; the direction of the current depending on the rainfall. The Zouga, from the lake, winds easterly through a flat country for eighty miles, then turns south for 130 miles to Kumadua vlei, and then north-east for sixty miles, and joins the great Makarakara brak vlei, which is nearly fifty miles across, where five streams enter it on the eastern side from the watershed that passes through the Matabeleland, viz. the Nata, Quabela, Shuari, Mia, and Tua. The Zouga river having such a perfect level, the water in April and May flows easterly, in June and July westerly. The only outlet for the surplus water of the Zouga, lake, and vlei, is the Mababe into the Chobe; and when all are full, and no stream flowing, the water in the Mababe goes north or south according to the rain. If a great rush of water comes out of the lake or vlei, the Mababe is the outlet which connects the lake system with the Zambese, and the hippopotami find their way up from the latter river into the Zouga. The length of the Mababe from these two points is 200 miles, but there are several watercourses throughout this region, more particularly round the hilly district of Ngwa hills, traversing the country in all directions; pans and vleis intersect this extensive district, many of them extensive—the Sira and Etwetwe are considerable.

The tributaries to the east of the Victoria Falls to the coast comprise the following:—Daka, Zimboya, Gwaii with its many branches, Sebuana, Lohala, Sinyaki, Lozenza, Banyeka, Panyama, Zingisi, Nake, Luenya, Landeen, Sankatsi, Zangwe; all of them take their rise in the watershed of the Molopo and Lobolo mountains. The principal known tributaries on the north of the Zambese are the Shire, which enters it ninety miles from the mouth—it is a broad and extensive river, being the outlet to the waters of the Lake Shirwa—the Kewubue, Loangwa, Kafue, Majecla, Luamba, and many intervening branches not yet sufficiently surveyed. This comprises the Zambese basin, the most valuable and important region in South Central Africa.

The Limpopo River Basin, Covering an Area of 620,000 Square Miles.

This river, from the fountain-head to its mouth, where it enters the Indian Ocean, eighty miles up the coast from Delagoa Bay, in 25 degrees 25 minutes South latitude, 33 degrees 30 minutes East longitude, is 850 miles in length. Its configuration is nearly three parts of a circle. The chief fountains rise south of Pretoria in the Transvaal, on the watershed between Potchefstroom and Pretoria, 26 degrees 10 minutes South latitude, 28 degrees 40 minutes East longitude, taking a north-north-west course for 200 miles, then turns north-east, and then easterly for 400 miles, and then in a south-south-east direction for 250 miles over a flat country to the ocean.

The principal tributaries on the west and north are the Eland, Great Marico, Notuane, Makalapsie, Setuane, Serube, Pakwe, Maclutsie, Shasha, Makhae, Kubie, and the Nuanettie, and their several branches, which drain the country on the eastern side of the two watersheds. The Great Marico, with its branches of Little Marico and Molmane, drains a considerable extent of country in the Marico and Molmane district, and a large portion of Bechuanaland under the chiefs Gaseitsive, Sechele, Makose, and Lindsey. The remainder pass through the chief Khama’s country, and the Mashona country under the Matabele king, Lo-Bengulu. The eastern branches all rise in the Transvaal as under:—the Apies passes by Pretoria, Pienaar, Matlabas Sand, Palala, Magalaquen, Hout, Lovolo, and the Olifants river with its many branches.

Their fountains rise on the north side of the watershed, which passes east. The other rivers are the Manica, with its three principal branches, the Sabie, Crocodile, and Umcomati, that partly drain the Lydenburg gold-fields; the Umbolosi and the Maputa, with two main branches, the Uzutu and Pongola, that fall into Delagoa Bay. The eastern coast-line, north of the Limpopo, drains the territory under the chief Umzela; the two principals are the Sabie or Sabia, which rises in the northern watershed at Sakaloto kraal, 18 degrees 10 minutes South latitude, 32 degrees 8 minutes East longitude, at an altitude of 4210 feet above sea-level, and the Buzi river, which supplies Umzela’s kraal, and both rivers enter the Indian Ocean in Sofala Bay. These rivers complete the Limpopo basin, which drains the northern portion of the Transvaal, the Portuguese settlement, in addition to those already named.

The Orange and Vaal River System, and the Ancient River System of the Kalahara Desert, Covering an Area of 520,000 Square Miles.

The only portion of the Orange river which forms the south boundary of South Central Africa is that part from its mouth to the junction of the Vaal. The Orange above that junction turns south-east, and from Ramah, which is the point where the boundary between Griqualand West and the Orange Free State join, the river is the northern boundary of the Cape Colony up to Basutoland, where the head-fountains rise in the mountain regions of that territory, and it is the boundary of Natal near Giant’s Castle, at an altitude of 10,000 feet above sea-level.

The Caledon forms one of its tributaries, draining a portion of the Orange Free State. The Vaal river, which forms the south-east boundary of South Central Africa, rises in the Quathlamba mountain—a beautiful range of hills on the eastern division of the Transvaal, now called New Scotland—and Wakkerstroom district, and from Klip Staple, an isolated hill, 6110 feet in altitude above sea-level, also from Lake Cressie, a large sheet of water at an elevation of 5813 feet. Rensberg, a part of the Quathlamba, is 6800, and in 26 degrees 10 minutes South latitude, 30 degrees 32 minutes East longitude. From this point the river flows south-west, seventy miles, to Standerton, a town in the Transvaal, and on the main transport road from Natal to Pretoria, passing through an open country, receiving in its course many small feeders. From that town the river takes a winding course west for 120 miles, down to where the Moi river, upon which Potchefstroom is built, joins it; on the northern bank several small streams flow into it that rise in the watershed, running from Klip Staple westerly to Lichtenburg, the altitude averaging 5000 feet. The principal are Bushman, Kalk, and Rand. Heidelburg is situated on the latter, between the Kalk and Rand. On the south bank the river Wolga is one of the upper tributaries, rising in the Drakensberg above Harrysmith in the Orange Free State. It is an important stream draining a large extent of country. From the Moi river the Vaal flows south-west, with many bends and turns, for 240 miles, to the town of Barkly in Griqualand West, where the altitude is 3750 feet, and 28 degrees 30 minutes South latitude, 24 degrees 41 minutes East longitude. Between these two points there are several spruits falling into it from the north, and rising on the south slope of the watershed. The most noted are Scoon, rising in the Dwaasberg, a gold-bearing district, on which are situated the towns of Fenterdrop and Klarksdorp; Klip, Maquassie, and Bamber spruits. The other towns between Klarksdorp and Barkly are Bloemhof, Christiana, and Hebron, situated on its banks, the latter being the first town built on the river diggings after diamonds were discovered. The rivers on the south side drain the Orange Free State: the principal are the Rhinoster, Valsch, and Vet. The Vaal from Standerton down to Barkly, and beyond to its junction with the Orange, is very picturesque, well-wooded with fine timber, and bush on its banks, which are steep—the water has been known to rise forty feet without flooding its banks—many islands, with their rich foliage, particularly in the autumn, in April and May, when the lovely tints give great beauty to the river. Kimberley, the diamond centre, is twenty-five miles south-east from Barkly on the south side of the river. From Barkly the river flows for twenty-five miles in a north-westerly course, where the Harts river joins it. In this distance there were, and are now, several diamond-diggings, viz. Pniel, opposite Barkly, Waldick’s plant, Good Hope, Gong Gong, Kesi Kamma, and others. The Harts river rises in the Transvaal at two large fountains, with vleis at Lichtenburg, 26 degrees 22 minutes South latitude, 26 degrees 37 minutes East longitude, at an altitude of 6100 feet above sea-level, passing down south-west for 220 miles, enters the Vaal at Lekatlong Kaffir station, and also a mission station of the London Mission Society, passing through, in its winding course, an open grass country. On and near its banks are the native kraals Maamuosa, Taung, and Phokwane, as also Boetsap in Griqualand West. From the junction of the Harts to the junction of the Orange the Vaal flows south-west for sixty miles, through a hilly country, particularly at what is called the “Poort,” where the river enters a mountain district, and for seven miles the scenery is grand and wild, to within a short distance of Siffonel kraal, where formerly the chief Siffonello lived, and after 1869 it became a diamond-digging camp. At the junction of the Orange and Vaal the two rivers form a broad sheet of water, well-wooded on both banks, which is now the Orange, and flows west by south for eighty miles, through a hilly country, to the great bend near Prieska, which is on the colonial side of the river, then turns north-west for 120 miles, winding between lofty and rugged mountain scenery, with broad belts of wood on both banks, to a Griqua town, where Klaas Lucus lives, passing Bultfontein and Kheis, a Korunna village, and the extreme western boundary of Griqualand West. From Klaas Lucus the Orange flows in a westerly direction, with many extensive bends, for 380 miles, where it enters the South Atlantic Ocean, 28 degrees 40 minutes South latitude, 16 degrees 25 degrees East longitude. At Kakaman’s drift, thirty miles below the bend at Klaas Lucus, the ancient river Hygap enters it, which is the main stream that carries off the waters from the Kalahara desert, being the only outlet of the river system of that extensive region. At the junction of these two rivers a Korunna chief, Puffadder, had his head kraal—fifteen years ago.

The river from this point is very beautiful and grand; noble and lofty hills flank it on both sides. Many hundred islands, with dense bush, add immensely to the beauty of the country. Between the Hygap and the South Atlantic Ocean there are four rivers that drain the South Kalahara, the Nisbit, Aamo, Keikab, and the Great Fish river; the three former rise on the south side of the Brinus mountain, the latter is a large and extensive tributary of the Orange, being over 400 miles in length, rising in Damaraland in 22 degrees 10 minutes South latitude, flowing south through the desert, receiving in its course, on the western bank, many branches that rise in the mountain region of Great Namaqualand, the most important being the Amhup, Koros, Huntop, Chun, Oip, and Manobis, and enters the Orange river about ninety miles from its mouth. The total length of the Orange to the Vaal, and up that river to Lake Cressie, is 1110 miles. There are several cataracts and rapids on both the Orange and the Vaal, with long stretches of smooth water. The most extensive cataract is Aukrabies, below Kakaman’s drift, where there is a foil of nearly ninety feet. The ancient river system of the Kalahara desert, of which the Hygap is the outlet into the Orange, requires care to properly describe the peculiar formation of the several watercourses that intersect that extensive region, and from the magnitude of some of them show that at some remote period they were vast flowing rivers, whereas at the present time water is seldom seen in them. The upper or more northern fountains rise in Ovampoland, at an altitude of 3350 feet near the Omareru river, distant from the Orange river at the junction of the Hygap nearly 700 miles; 200 miles below the upper fountain of this river the elevation is 3200 feet; 130 miles to the south of this, at the junction of the Nosop river, the altitude is 2700 feet; and 160 miles following the course of the Nosop down south to the junction of the Molapo, along that river to the junction of the Kuruman river, the height is 2400 feet, which river receives the name of the Hygap; and 170 miles following that river due south to the junction of the Orange, the altitude is 1470 feet,—consequently there is a fall of 1880 feet from the fountains in Ovampoland to the Orange river. The Black and White Nosops join in the desert, forty miles to the east of Rhinoster vlei. They both rise on the eastern boundary of Damaraland, having many feeders from the mountain range 8000 feet above sea-level, flowing south and east to Narukus, where the Elephant river joins it, receiving its waters from the Limestone Peak, 4444 feet in altitude. Twenty miles below Narukus the river is called the Oup, which meanders in a south-east and south direction, and falls into the Molapo, twenty-four miles below the junction of that river and the Nosop. The distance of the upper springs of the Black and White Nosop to the Molapo is nearly 500 miles. Twenty miles below Narukus the Nosop separates from the Oup, and continues more to the east, which has already been described. Forty miles to the west of the junction of the Oup and Kuruman rivers is a large vlei, thirty-two miles in length, called Hogskin vlei, and in places from two to three miles broad. This vlei receives three small rivers, the Knaas, Snake, and Moi; their fountain-heads are in the hill district on the west, covered with bush and rugged in form. The country is very pretty and picturesque, with fine kameel-doorn trees, prickly thorns, and mimosa trees. On the east of this large vlei is an extensive salt-pan, but not used, as there are no inhabitants except Bushmen and Korannas. To the south is the Back river, which rises in those beautiful mountains known as the Brinus hills; from the topmost springs it flows in two directions, one to the Great Fish river, the other eastward past Liefdote, Tobas, and Klopper vlei, turns south-east, and enters the Hygap sixty miles above the Orange river, and seventeen miles below Swaart-Modder, where I built a stone house under the hanging cliff, in the dry bed of the Hygap. The other two rivers that complete this ancient river system are the Molapo or Mafeking, and the Kuruman. The former rises on the central watershed in the district of Molapo in Montsioa’s territory. The eye of this river is situated 26 degrees 7 minutes South latitude, 26 degrees 20 minutes East longitude, in a lovely wooded glen, 5350 feet above sea-level, and only ten miles from the main eye of the Molmane river that falls into the Limpopo basin; the watershed passing across the desert divides the two. From this fountain the Molapo turns westerly, passing Melemas and Macebe’s kraals, continuing in the same direction for 315 miles, joins the Nosop above described, and forms the main stream of which the Hygap is a continuation. The Setlakooly and Moretsane are the only branches of any size that drain the country in that long distance.

The Kuruman river rises south of the mission station of that name, flows west and enters the Hygap a few miles below the junction of the Oup, passing through a wild and broken country the last ninety miles of its course. The Hygap river from this point to the Orange is a broad and deep river, and from the lofty and perpendicular sandstone rocks, reaching in many places 200 feet in height at the bends, where the current acted upon them in its course down, it is evident that at a remote period it was a river of some magnitude; the force of water in many places has undermined the base of the cliffs, forming caves, that have been used by the early inhabitants as dwelling-places, and in one of which I erected a stone front to live in for a time when in that region many years ago.

At the fountain-heads of many of these desert rivers the springs are very powerful, but the water does not continue for any great distance above the sand in their beds, but sinks and percolates through the sand until it reaches the Orange river. Knowing this, I had very little difficulty in procuring water by digging a few feet into their beds, the sand in many places filling up the original beds eight to ten feet in depth. The water when procured was clear and cool. There are several rivers on the west coast that drain Damaraland, the country being so dry that rarely any water is found in them near the coast; Swakop is the most important, the mouth being in Walfish Bay, as also the Kuisip river, south of Swakop, which enters the south side of the above bay.

The rivers on the north are Omaruru, Ugab, Hubb. The northern boundary of Damaraland, the Cunene river, separates the Portuguese settlement, Benguela. And in Great Namaqualand is the Little Orange river which rises on the west slope of the mountain range, and enters the South Atlantic near Angra Peguena island, lately annexed by Germany, which completes the Orange and Vaal basin in South Central Africa. The rivers or branches of the south side of the Orange, which drain a large portion of the Cape Colony and Little Namaqualand west of the junction of the Vaal river, are the Ongar, which enters the Orange near Prieska, Hartebeest or Vish river, Pillans, and some small streams of no note. The country which these rivers pass through is wild and very hilly.

Chapter Twenty One.

The region north of the Transvaal under Lo-Bengulu, the Matabele king. Its physical geography and notes on my explanations. Within the Limpopo Basin.

This region is commonly known as Matabeleland, Maahona, and Makalaka country. It extends from the Limpopo river northwards to the Zambese river. The western boundary joins up to the Bechuanaland occupied by the chief Khama, and on the east by the territory belonging to the chief Umzela. The extent from north to south is 420 miles, and from east to west 340 geographical miles. The mountain range, Molopo, traverses it the whole length in a diagonal direction, from the north-east corner down to the south-west, which forms the watershed dividing the Zambese from the Limpopo basin, the northern portion of this kingdom being in the former, and the southern in the latter. The tributaries of the Limpopo take their rise from this watershed, all of them, without exception, flowing through a beautiful and well-wooded country, containing some of the most magnificent and valuable timber to be found in Africa: mahogany, ebony, and other useful woods suitable for building purposes and other work. The principal names of these rivers are the Shasha, being the southern, between the chief Khama and Lo-Bengulu, the Tati, Ramakaban, Mpakwe, Meksine, Rubi, and Nuanettie. The whole country drained by these rivers is granite, with lofty and picturesque hills covered with tropical vegetation of many flowering shrubs and trees, with the brilliant flowers everywhere peeping out between massive granite rocks, lying one upon another for several hundred feet in most grotesque forms. This gives to the landscape a peculiar and novel appearance, quite different from anything seen in the south. Many of the spurs of the Molopo range are free from bush, where the native cattle find fine grazing-land, and the gigantic baobab, palms, euphorbias, aloes of many kinds with their crimson flowers, and other tropical trees skirt the hills and mountain streams. The fallen masses of rock from the pyramidal-shaped hills strew the ground at their base, and give a peculiar and strange feature to the scenery around. This country gradually descends towards the south and east, until it reaches the Limpopo river, interrupted by many isolated hills and mountain ranges, thickly wooded; the most inaccessible points being selected by the Mashona natives for their kraals, to be secure from surprise by the Matabele warriors.

The population of the eastern division of the Mashona country is mostly composed of the Mashona tribe that occupied this region previous to the invasion of the dreaded Zulu chief Moselikatze, about the year 1840, when he advanced north with his army of wild Zulus, and took possession of all the country which is now included in the Matabele kingdom. There are also several other tribes living in this district, the most numerous being the Makalakas, Bakalahara, and the Mesere Bushmen, and many of the Banyai, Makloes, Makatse, and Mantatees, that have crossed the Limpopo from the Transvaal.

The Tati gold-fields occupy the western border on the north bank of the Tati river, which were first discovered by Mr H. Hartly, the well known and highly-respected elephant-hunter from the interior, in 1867, which soon became known, and a number of diggers from Australia and other parts came flocking to the scene. Amongst the number was Sir John Swinburne. A company was formed, and after spending much money in machinery and other works, it was abandoned, sufficient gold not being found to pay expenses. The stores and works fell into ruin, and the last of the powerful engines, weighing several tons, was washed down the river nearly two miles, and deposited on the bank some twenty feet above the river-bed, where I saw it when returning from Matabeleland in 1878.

The fact of the flood-waters carrying down such a huge and heavy mass as this engine two miles, and depositing it at so high a level, will give some idea of the force and quantity of the water that fills these rivers during that time. The rainy season varies as to time; sometimes it commences early in November, at others later, and lasts until February or March. In all these tributaries of the Limpopo that drain the above region, none retain water throughout the year, although they are large and broad streams with steep and lofty banks, but during the dry season water may be obtained from most of them by digging a few feet in their sandy beds; they are all at too sharp an angle to allow water to remain in them. The main road from Ba-Mangwato to Matabeleland crosses most of them, and frequently I have had to wait weeks on their banks until the flood-water had subsided to enable me to cross. On one occasion I was on the point of crossing the Bamakaban river, and was treking down the bank to enter it with my waggon, when my driver called my attention to a great roaring sound which came from the up-river side. Having previously had several days of storms, with heavy rains, we held still to listen, and from previous experience we too well knew the cause. There was not time to cross and reach the opposite side before the rush of water would be upon us, particularly with an ox-waggon, as the sand in these river-beds is very heavy for oxen to pull a waggon through, and sometimes they take it into their heads to come to a stand until they think proper to move on again, after a little coaxing with one or two South African waggon-whips, the handles of which are twelve feet long, and the lash twenty. Therefore, to prevent any catastrophe, we selected a pretty open grassy glade on the wooded bank, and outspanned; but before we had completed this operation, the water was in sight, coming down like a wall, bringing trees of considerable size, large stems of dead wood, sticks, and froth, rushing and tearing along with a roaring sound that could be heard miles away, and in a few minutes there was sufficient to float a large ship. Where would my waggon have been if I had attempted to cross?—Carried down into the Indian Ocean in splinters. Many a waggon and their owners have been caught in these flood-waters and lost in the rivers of Africa. Nevertheless, with all its inconveniences, it is a grand and imposing sight, and a novel one to those who are unaccustomed to African travelling in an ox-waggon.

(A waggon which contained the journal of St. Vincent Erskine, the traveller, of his third expedition in this country, was thus washed down a river. A white girl and a Kaffir and the oxen were drowned. A number of men searched the banks for the journal for days in vain, and it was only found accidentally two years afterwards in its tin case in a bush so high above the river that no one had thought of looking there.)

We were detained here eleven days before we were able to cross, the sand in the river-bed being very deep, and resting on the granite-bed rock beneath, which is not very smooth or level. The force of the flood sweeps away all the sand, leaving a rugged bed; therefore it is prudent to wait till the water has drained away, that we may pick a safe road across, otherwise an axle might break, or some damage be done to the waggon. In all cases it is wise not to be in a hurry. I have known fussy transport riders flounder into such rivers before the water has subsided, and break their waggon, which has detained them weeks to get repaired.

During our stay we had some excellent shooting, big game as well as small. The third afternoon of our stay seven giraffes were seen by my herd boy, who was looking after the oxen in the veldt, and he came and reported the same. Not having my shooting pony at hand, I had to send for him and saddle up, and started with my driver and forelooper to find these noble animals; but to do so it is necessary to be very slim, as it is called here, that is very sharp and clever in stalking your game, otherwise it will escape. It is surprising how keen and sensitive the eye and ear become to all woodland sounds and trifling incidents necessary for a hunter to observe and note, to lead him up to the game he is seeking; a broken stick, a crushed leaf or blade of grass, a broken twig where the game has passed, must be keenly looked for. We had proceeded but a short distance when we met three Mesere Bushmen with their bows and arrows, who told my driver they were coming to tell us of several giraffes that were feeding in a dense bush not far away. With the natives not far away means any distance, they being bad judges in such cases. We, however, secured them to show the way, one taking the lead, the rest of us following in Indian file, the pony being led by my driver. After winding in and out through the forest for nearly a mile as far as I could guess, the first Bushman called a halt, at the same time he advanced crawling along very cautiously, until we lost sight of him for some little time, when we saw him come crawling back in the same way. He told us there were, by counting on his fingers, eight giraffes quietly feeding a short distance in front. The bush being too dense to make use of the pony, he was left behind in charge of my boy, and we, with our two rifles, with our Bushman guide, had to adopt the same mode of advance, to get near enough for a shot, and crawl with the greatest caution, avoiding any dead and dry sticks, for at the least sound in breaking one they would be off and away in a moment. After proceeding on our hands and knees for some distance, the Bushman, who was in front, motioned with his hand that they were in sight. Crawling up with the greatest care, I could only distinguish their heads and long necks above the bushes which surrounded them on all sides, not one hundred yards away.

We waited until one of their bodies came into view, when we were to fire from both rifles at the same animal. The silence of death was around, not a puff of air to move a leaf, the bright tropical sun shining in all his glory, making the heat almost intolerable. In this position we waited some ten minutes before a chance occurred. One of them came more into the open, with his body in full view. Now was the moment to fire, and our two bullets entered his body with the well known sound which a ball makes in striking. He fell, but was up again in a moment.

It was a beautiful sight to see; the others leaping and bounding away, swaying their long necks from side to side, until lost in the bush. But we had no time to look after them; our attention was drawn to the one we had shot. After regaining his feet and attempting to follow the others, he only staggered a short distance, and then fell dead; a noble corpse, and a noble bag.

After our excitement was a little subsided, it was necessary to consider how we were to get such a huge beast to the waggon with the least trouble. It was arranged to inspan the waggon, and bring it round the best way we could through the forest to as near the dead giraffe as possible. It was now near upon ten o’clock in the morning. Despatching my boys and one of the Bushmen to carry this plan out, I remained with the other two Bushmen, who wanted no instructions. Giving them my hunting-knife, they were soon at work skinning this beautiful animal, which proved to be a young cow, but full-grown and the finest meat in Africa, very much like veal in flavour. In a short time the waggon was brought up to within fifty yards, and outspanned in the shade of some noble trees, for the sun’s rays were intense, and with the heat and fatigue, I was glad to throw myself on the grass, after a good drink of cold tea, to rest and smoke, whilst my Kaffirs and driver were making a fire for cooking, skinning the giraffe, and doing other household work. Being well supplied with good water, the casks being full, our contentment for the time was complete.

What a glorious thing is this wild life, where game and water are plentiful, with liberty to roam where one lists, with health and strength to enjoy it! The only surprise is that any one can be ill in such a country, pure air, plenty of exercise, good food and water, constantly moving, seeing fresh sights daily: I pity the man that cannot enjoy a life so free and so exciting as this. A giraffe lying at full length on the grass is a grand sight. This one measured fifteen feet seven inches, from hoof to the ears, and it was a work of much labour to skin and cut up such a large beast, but everything was done by 4 p.m. Bushmen are like vultures, they scent game afar off, for by the time everything had been cleared up and put straight, eight fresh Bushmen, their wives and several children, had put in an appearance, and were looking with longing eyes upon the remains of the giraffe. I was glad to see them, and told them they could take what was left. Poor things, their delight was complete. Knives were out, slashing and cutting up commenced, and divided out; a fire was made and cooking went on up to midnight. The night was fine, and as the fire lighted up the figures as they moved about, and shone upon the trees and shrubs, it was about as unique a picture as one could desire to see, and would have told well if the scene had been in Hyde Park or Kensington Gardens.

During the night we were much annoyed by lions round our camp, some of them coming so close that a Bushman caught up a burning piece of wood and threw it in the face of one, with such good aim, it fell on his shaggy mane, and made it smoke, when he cleared off. Bushmen seem to care very little for lions; they think nothing of walking through the forest with only a short spear. I was too tired to go after them, but two days afterwards had a narrow escape; as I was walking along up the river-bank looking for guinea-fowl, I came plump upon two. Having only my shot-gun I could do nothing. I was in a fix, and if they had known it, they could have made short work of my bones. As it was, we stood looking at each other, not with any pleasurable emotion on my part, and I think they participated in the same feeling, for after some five minutes had passed, the young lion slunk behind a thick bush, and soon after the old one followed. During the whole time I never moved hand or foot. If I had raised my gun to fire, or turned, the old one would have been down upon me in one spring, for I was within springing distance, we were so close. When the old one stood partly facing me, in an attitude of defence, his mane raised and his large glaring, fiery eyes fixed upon mine, he was a noble animal, appearing almost double the size of those caged at home. I never moved my position for some time after they disappeared; if I had they might have attacked; and when I did, it was for some twenty paces backwards, and then I turned and followed the river down to camp, after securing three guinea-fowl.

During the remainder of my stay here, we cut up and dried the giraffe, to make biltong, which will keep for years; in the day exploring the rivers and country, taking observations, collecting specimens of everything interesting, and writing up my journal. On the 15th we found the river dry, and sent the boys down with spades to make the drift good by filling in the holes between the granite rocks, for the waggon to pass over, and we arrived on the north bank in the evening, in time to make fast the oxen to the trektow before dark. Every night we heard lions and wolves, but this night we were infested with them: the scent of the raw flesh in the waggon seemed to draw them, for they gave us no peace. The bush was thick, and the night dark and cloudy. They gave us no chance for a shot; the only thing we could do was to keep up great fires all night and watch. We fired several shots into the darkness where we thought they were prowling about. Several times we thought they were fighting by the fierce growls and spits they made, but we found the spits came from the females, as lions are never known to do so. If it were not for the novelty of the affair in listening to and seeing lions in their own native wilds, I would prefer a good sound sleep in my waggon, but we do not meet with such noble game every day of our lives.

When Sir John Swinburne and his company were working for gold at Tati, other diggers followed up that river, some thirty and others forty miles, and worked claims near its banks at Todd’s Creek and Charley, but did not find sufficient gold to pay, and they were also abandoned. At the present time a new company has been formed to work the old diggings at Tati, and I believe find more than sufficient to pay expenses. Ancient workings in the district have been discovered, but when used, no history can inform us.

About a mile to the west of the Tati station, on the summit of a hill about 200 feet above the river, are some very interesting remains of an ancient fort, built of hewn stone. The outer walls, now standing, are four feet in height, with two courses running the whole length, about half-way up, with five regular courses between, built in the herring-bone fashion, similar to those in old Roman walls now preserved in England. These stones are very thin, not much thicker than common tiles; the other courses have stones in regular layers, three inches deep and about a foot in length. This wall is two feet thick, and encloses a space of about half an acre. The floor originally was concrete; large portions still remain, and nearly in the centre are portions of small furnaces for melting metal. At the south-west corner of this enclosure are several rooms, with walls dividing them seven feet in height. In the eastern room the walls are twenty feet high, and it appears to have been a tower, leaving a space of some four feet between the outer and inner wall; and, when in a perfect state, it must have been a strong place, of defence, standing, as it does, on the topmost ridge of the hill, overlooking the river and surrounding country. There is no evidence of any mortar being used; mud may have been a substitute, and from time to time been washed away. Trees are growing in many of these rooms of considerable size, as also bushes. This being a favourite lurking-place for lions, I had to explore it with a rifle in one hand, and book and rod in the other. It is a most interesting ruin and well constructed, evidently the work of a white race. There are no Kaffir tribes in this part of Africa or south that have ever been known to build their kraals square or with hewn stone. Other ancient and similar ruins are still preserved beyond these diggings higher up the river, the walls also square and fifteen feet in height. The country is dense bush, with fine timber. Lignum-vitae trees abound; the wood when cut is black and white, very hard, and used for waggon desselbooms and axles. It has been known to last almost as long as iron.

The Tati station is the only white man’s station between Ba-Mangwato and Gubuluwayo, the Matabele king’s military kraal. It is distant from the former 169 miles, and from the latter 126 miles. A few stores were opened by English traders, to supply the Bushmen who brought ostrich feathers for sale (but if known by the Matabele people they would have been killed), and also travellers and hunters passing up and down from the interior, as it is situated on the main and only transport road to that country. The range of mountains, “Mopolo,” forming the watershed above mentioned, averages in height 4320 feet above sea-level, there are some parts nearly 5000; it is of granite formation. Along some of the rivers, already described, may be seen some fine slate rocks.

The natives procure very fine gold-dust from the sand in some of the river-beds, and sell it. They preserve it in the quill of a feather from the wing of a vulture, where they deposit it for safety. Every kind of game is found in this region, but it is becoming more scarce every year. This part is known as the Makalakaland. Quartz intersects the country in several parts, and is rich in gold.

There are many military posts on the slopes of the watershed down to Makobi’s outpost, on the Mpakwe river, which is the frontier outpost, where all travellers and hunters have to stop, to obtain permission to enter the country before proceeding. On the arrival of any stranger, a messenger is sent to the king, and if he objects, he has to turn back, and if allowed to proceed, two Matabele warriors from the regiment stationed there take charge of the visitor, and conduct him to his majesty, who inquires his business, so that no one is allowed to enter his territory without his knowledge. Although the Matabele country comes down to the Shasha river, no one occupies that district, except a few wandering Bushmen, south of the military post at Makobi’s.

There are many ancient forts similar to those at and near the Tati, the ruins of which are still to be seen on commanding positions, but none of any great extent; a garrison of 100 men would be as many as could occupy them. Most of them are so concealed from view by trees and bush, that it is by mere accident they are discovered. I once outspanned in the centre of one without knowing it, thinking it an old Kaffir kraal, until my attention was called to the peculiar form of the stonework of hewn stone, and the square rooms.

At the Mpakwe river near the south side of the drift, and twenty-nine miles north from the Tati river, is another very interesting ruin, built of cut granite with regular courses, each stone nearly the same size, and regularly jointed. The walls are ten feet high, and two feet thick. The interior was a smooth granite concrete floor, and contained burnt earth similar to bricks, in great quantities. That portion facing the river was divided into several rooms. At the main entrance within the building is a small kind of sentry-box commanding the opening, capable of holding only two persons.

The situation is commanding, and must have been, when perfect, capable of holding out against an enemy. There is another very good specimen of these ancient forts a short distance from the Camarlo drift, on the river Umfulamokokgumala, which is a branch of the Mapui, that falls into the Gwaii, a tributary of the Zambese; this drift is on the topmost ridge of the watershed of the Mopolo, at an elevation of 4360 feet above sea-level.

The fort is 110 feet square, with rounded corners. In the centre is a fort thirty-five feet square, with walls two feet thick. All of them have large bushes growing in and through the walls. There are many other ancient forts similar in construction to those described in this region, and also many more to the east, within the southern division of Lo-Bengulu’s territory, and within the Limpopo basin.

Sixty-three miles north of the Tati gold-fields, on the transport road, is Lee’s farm, situated on the Mpakwe river, a branch of the Shasha, a grant of land which Lee obtained many years ago from the king Umseligasi, or better known as Moselikatze, the dreaded chief. It is situated a few miles south of Manyami’s outpost, on the south slope of the Matoppo mountain, the western spur of the Mopolo range. Lee, on his father’s side, is English, but he has married into a Boer family, and has great influence with Lo-Bengulu.

Sixty-three miles north of Lee’s farm is the great military station of Lo-Bengulu, situated on the summit of the watershed named Gubuluwayo or Gibbeklaik, a strong and well-laid-out town on the summit of a low hill; the king’s houses and his cattle kraal being in the centre, surrounded by strong fencing, leaving an open space, round which the town is built. It will be more particularly described in another chapter, as it belongs more to the Zambese basin.

An extract from my journal for a few days will give a clearer insight into African travelling than any other description.

From the Tati gold-fields to Gubuluwayo, the military kraal, distance 126 miles.

December 8th, 1877.—Inspanned at 4 p.m. for the interior. Treked about a mile, when my oxen, frightened by lions, turned suddenly round, and broke the desselboom of the waggon. I had to splice it, and return to Tati station in the evening.

9th.—Kept awake all night by lions. Out all day in the bush, looking for a suitable tree to cut down, to make desselboom; the knopjiesdoorn or lignum-vitae is the best. I went with rifle and Kaffir with axe all round the hills, and at last found a straight one, which we cut down and brought to camp.

10th, Sunday.—A very wet, stormy day; severe thunderstorm. Mr Scott returned from Macloutsie river, there being no water on the road to Mongwato.

11th, Monday.—Very hot day. Thermometer in shade 96 degrees. Barometer 26.75; altitude at this station 3740, and at the river 3100 feet above sea-level. Lions and wolves making noises all night. Mr Lee’s two married daughters came in from the hunting-veldt. We went out to examine an ancient fort, and look over old gold-diggings, Mr McArthur making my desselboom, 3 p.m. News brought in that camels and elephants are passing within four miles to the north-west. McArthur and self saddle up, and after a ride of three miles, fall in with four giraffes. Shot one, rode back, sent waggon on and followed, and brought back a waggon-load of meat. Arrived in camp, 9 p.m., thoroughly tired and hungry. Had a grand supper at McArthur’s store, a glass of toddy, and to bed at 11 p.m.

12th.—Out shooting all day with McArthur. Passed close to a lion in the bush, shot at him but missed, and he made off. A fearful storm in the night.

13th.—Two white men came in from Gubuluwayo, they tell us Lo-Bengulu will not allow any white men in the Mashona country, and has sent out a thousand Kaffirs to drive away the game, and annoy the hunters in the hunting-veldt. Scott, Kurton, and many others have been robbed by the Makalakas, and the king will give no satisfaction. Many of the traders have been threatened with the assagai, and one’s life is not safe in the country. Thermometer 98 degrees. Visited the ancient forts to take measurements, and procure some pretty birds, of which this country is full. Mr Brown, who has a store here, is very clever in preserving them.

14th.—McArthur making my desselboom. Thermometer 101 degrees. Four waggons have come down, some from Panda-ma-Tenka. The hunters up there have done nothing, the game having all been driven away by the natives. Trade is bad and everything in confusion. Those come in to-day are Wiltshire, Gordon, Fry, and four others.

15th.—Desselboom finished. Very warm, 104 degrees. Out exploring amongst the hills, and also on the 16th.

17th.—Three waggons left to-day for down country, with Palmer, Bray, and Gordon.

18th, Tuesday.—Scott left to-day with Thompson. Rain all day and last night. Lions came close up to waggon, but too dark to get a shot.

19th.—Kaffirs came in to tell us there are plenty of giraffes and buffalo between this and Ramakaban river. Saddle up, McArthur with me; go in pursuit. Come up with a herd of buffaloes, seventeen, but bush is so dense cannot get a good shot; and after several attempts to get round them, they make off for the hills, and we return to camp in time to escape a severe thunderstorm.

20th.—Out all day down the rivers. Very hot, 107 degrees. The rain makes the heat very trying.

21st, Longest day.—Thermometer 102 degrees. The river is coming down fast. In the morning there was no water in its bed. At 4 p.m. it had risen twelve feet, bringing down large trees.

22nd, Saturday.—Left the Tati station at 6:30 a.m. Travelled six miles, and outspanned at a pan for the day. Plenty of water, wooded country all the way; crossed three bad sluits. Buffaloes, giraffes, and elephants can be seen from the waggon as we trek along, but the bush is so thick we cannot follow them. Shot a bastard eland before reaching the pan, which we secured by sending my two boys to protect it whilst we outspanned, as the distance was only a few hundred yards from the pan. The flesh is very good eating. Inspanned at 5 p.m., and treked four miles, as it came on to rain with thunder, and outspanned for the night in the bush. Made three large fires round oxen, to keep off lions that were constantly prowling about the waggon. Very pretty country, and pleasant to travel through when water is plentiful. McArthur’s driver I find very useful; he is a Zulu and speaks English.

23rd.—Very warm, 105 degrees. Treked in two inspans to Mpakwe river, through a very pretty and picturesque country. Crossed the Mpakwe on the 24th, a bad drift, and outspanned on the north bank, two miles south of Makobi’s outpost, a military kraal of the Matabele king. Sent Dirk, my driver, to the head Induna, for permission to go in. During his absence a Zulu came to waggon. I gave him for a present some powder and bullets, also a kerchief. He then, while I was reading, stole an axe and my waggon-whip, and cleared. The river is very pretty, and the wooded hills, with the variety of trees and shrubs that grow on their sides, impart a richness to the landscape.

25th, Christmas Day.—Thermometer 108 degrees. Inspanned at six.

Treked up to Makobi’s outpost. Two Indunas came to me, and several hundred of the natives, men, women, and children, swarming round me, and under the waggon, ready to steal anything they could lay their hands on. I complained to the Induna respecting the theft last evening, and told him I should report it to the king if the whip and axe were not returned. In about an hour the axe was returned, but not the whip.

It was amusing to see all the Kaffir girls when they came to sell their milk, ground-nuts, pumpkins, and other things, when I told them I would not buy any of their things because of the theft. They immediately began to abuse the thief in no measured language, because they found they had lost the sale of their goods; and when they found I was firm, the Induna promised I should have the whip on my return, if it could not be found before I left. I therefore got into the waggon to get some beads to purchase milk and other things, followed by half-a-dozen Kaffir maids with their goods, filling the waggon, followed by others blocking up the front. There was scarcely room to move. I soon cleared them out; these naked Venuses were much better outside.

The heat was terrific, 108 degrees in the waggon, full of these wild children of nature, with several hundred naked people round and under the waggon; a regular Babel of sounds, men begging for everything they saw, even wanting the clothes I had on. The head Induna took a fancy to my waistcoat, and as I wanted to get on without sending a message to the king, I made a bargain with him, that if he would send two of his warriors as my guard to the king, I would give him the waistcoat and an old black coat. This settled the question. I gave him the coat and waistcoat, which he then put on his naked person, and strutted up and down full of pride and vanity to the admiration of all. He was a splendid specimen of humanity, standing at least six feet six inches, stout in proportion, with a handsome, expressive countenance. My coat looked ridiculously small, and the waistcoat would not meet in front by several inches, but that was of no consequence.

At last, after settling for pay to my two guards, I left at 4 p.m., thankful to get away. Up to this time a cup of coffee in the early morning, and a few biscuits, had been my Christmas fare. After travelling three miles over a very stony road I came to a stand. The only means of getting on was to make use of the screw-jack to raise the wheels over the enormous granite blocks in the road—first the front, then the after wheels. When clear of them I set to work to cut down trees, to make room for the waggon to pass. At last, when night came, I was too exhausted to do anything but lie down on my bed and go to sleep. Christmas Days in Africa have, from some cause, been unlucky with me in the way of good fare; monkeys, tiger-cats, meercats, porcupines, ant-bears, and such like dainties, have always fallen to my lot on Christmas Day.

26th, Wednesday.—Splendid morning. No disturbance all night. Rose by sun-up, hungry; had a broil of some eland on an iron ramrod, and coffee—meat fit for the gods. Lovely and cool, thermometer 78 degrees. Took a bath in a small stream close at hand, a luxury not always to be obtained. As it was a cloudy morning and cool, I gave the oxen a feed and drink before starting. As we were only a short distance from the military kraal, we soon had some thirty Kaffir girls with wooden bowls of milk for sale.

Of all people I think these black people are most alive to the ridiculous and fun; full of what is called banter and quizzing, and very observant. On their arrival my boys and the two Zulus began to chaff them, but they gave it back with interest, and evidently had the best of it. Their witty remarks were very clever, and my boys had to give in. Some of them were very good-looking, with beautiful figures and expressive faces. Having filled all our bottles, and my Kaffirs having had a good drink of milk, we inspanned, and after two treks arrived at Lee’s farm for the night, passing on the way many quaint granite hills covered with tropical vegetation. The country round was also very pretty. Great unbroken masses of granite stand out in all directions. Lee was from home; his wife gave us coffee and sold us some reims.

27th, Thursday.—Beautiful morning. Treked in two inspans through a lovely country, intersected by many lofty granite kopjies, 300 feet in height, masses of granite formations, as if placed there by the hand of man; passing the Manyami’s outpost, on to Matapola station at the foot of the mountain of the same name, and outspanned on a pleasant open piece of grass, near some fine trees, the Kaffirs coming down in hundreds, begging “Tusa, Tusa,” everlasting, until my head Zulu, guard ordered them off to their kraal, leaving the girls to sell their milk and ground-nuts. Without this guard I should have had much trouble to keep these sons of nature in subjection.

On our way to-day I was nearly having to pay a large sum. At our outspan my herd boy, who had charge of the oxen when feeding, allowed them to stray into a Kaffir garden, where a fine crop of Kaffir corn was growing. My head guard found it out, and told my boys that they must bring on the oxen at once, inspan, and be off. If the Kaffirs found their corn trampled and eaten it would be serious; so we lost no time to push on. If any damage of this kind occurs, if only to a trifling extent, they will demand many head of oxen as a quittance. The guards seemed as pleased to get away as we did. No game to be seen on this side of Makobi’s; there are too many Kaffirs in the country. Many thousand head of cattle grazing everywhere.

28th, Friday.—Made two treks to-day. Crossed several bad drifts, but the scenery is very grand and beautiful, passing between lofty and grotesque granite conical hills, beautifully covered with many varieties of tropical shrubs and flowers. Met Mr John Lee going home with Mr Byles the hunter, and Mr White, at our first outspan. Passed several pretty trees (of the cactus family) and the siequarre trees, which bear long leaves, and at this season of the year dead flowers. Wild cotton grows in this region, and a plant called obendly, another kind of cotton-plant. The natives work up the cotton into long strings, fasten many together, and use it for tinder, or for sale to traders and hunters. The fibre is very tough, and if cultivated would be a valuable article of commerce; the flower is very peculiar, having green leaves; the pod is five inches in length, has three sides with a rib between, each side being one and a quarter inches wide, and green; the leaf is light-green above and white beneath, and grows along the ground. It is not found to grow south of twenty-one degrees, south latitude. I have now in my service the Zulu engaged at Makobi’s (Dumaka) as forelooper; Jack, the driver; Dirk, second driver; Mack, the cook and general servant; Jacob, a Bechuana, and the two Zulu guards.

29th, Saturday.—Travelled to-day in three short inspans, through a fine open country, thickly populated, large kraals in all directions. People very troublesome, constantly asking for presents, “Tusa,” all day longitude. Weather pleasantly warm, thermometer 90 degrees, a strong east wind blowing. Bought Kaffir beer for my boys at the Amaboguana, a large Kaffir station, and outspanned for the night near the large military station Amagoquana. Bought two Kaffir sheep for three pounds of beads. The country is well adapted for grazing purposes; the sheep were in splendid condition, each tail produced from ten to fourteen pounds of fat.

30th, Sunday.—We crossed the Carmarlo drift, and went on to one of Lo-Bengulu’s country stations, Umcarno, which is situated about twelve miles on the west of Gubuluwayo, where I found the king sitting on his waggon-box in his kraal, and the Rev. Mr Sykes and Mrs Sykes at their waggon a short distance away.

The rivers that complete the drainage of the eastern portion of the Mashona country, south of the Mopolo watershed, are the tributaries of the Sabia river. The most important are the Ingwezi, Lunde, Tokwe, and several small ones to the north. The Sabia rises in the watershed at an elevation of 4210 feet above sea-level, flows south for nearly 250 miles, then turns east, then north-east, and enters the Indian Ocean thirty miles south of Sofala. This river is supposed to be the boundary between Lo-Bengulu and the chief Umzela on the east.

The country is similar in character to that already described of the western region, inhabited by the same people, thickly populated, with many large kraals, most of them perched upon elevated spurs of the Molopo range and isolated hills. The highest points reach 4780 feet in altitude. The greater portion of this region is granite, and contains fine springs. Many of the military kraals have powerful chiefs. From the watershed the country gradually descends from 4780 feet down to 1690 feet, where the Tokwe and Ingwezi unite, with hills intervening. The spurs from the watershed run in a south-east direction, the same as the rivers. There are rice plains and large tracts of wild cotton, which is indigenous. Many ancient forts are still standing in ruins. Umte, Piza, and Zimbo have gold-pits near them, as also many others, that would lead one to suppose that those who worked for gold in this country built these forts for protection against the natives and the wild animals, as the country at that time must have swarmed with them.

As a wood-producing country there is no part of Africa which contains finer or more valuable trees. Almost every kind known in Africa flourishes here in perfection, and grows to an immense size, mahogany and ebony being the two most important. The Sabia valley is most picturesque, and the land is capable of growing everything that is required; all kinds of grain, vegetables, fruits, rice, cotton, indigo, spices, oranges, lemons, besides the wild fruit. There are lofty mountain ranges towards the north, the native name of which is Luputa or Lobolo.

The climate in the summer is hot, but in winter mild. The lowlands are subject to fever, the other portions are healthy.

Gold and other minerals are found, the gold in quartz and alluvial, and if properly prospected would, from ill information obtained, become a most valuable gold-field; besides the copper and silver that are known to exist in great quantities along the spurs of the mountain. The natives state the gold was worked and the forts built by the white men that once occupied this country, whom they called Abberlomba (men who made everything), and there is every appearance that it is so, for I am quite of opinion no African race of these parts ever built these strongholds, or took the trouble to make such extensive excavations in the earth as we find all over the country.

Chapter Twenty Two.

The physical geography of that part of the Mashona and Matabeleland on the north of the watershed dividing the Zambese and Limpopo basins, under the rule of the Matabele king, with notes on my explorations in the Zambese basin.

This northern portion of Lo-Bengulu’s kingdom is separated from the southern by the watershed already described, dividing his territory into two equal parts. This division extends to the Zambese. The western boundary joins up to the chief Khama’s territory, and the eastern by the upper part of the Mazoe river, crossing the Lobolo mountain to the Zambese in 32 degrees East longitude. The northern face of the watershed is a rugged and mountainous country, broken up into many spurs with deep ravines thickly wooded. The country is drained by many tributaries of the Zambese, with their branches, the most important being the Gwaii. The altitude of the source of this river is 4800 feet. The rivers falling into it are the Inkokwasi, Umvungu, Chamgani, Kagane, Umkhosi, Kame, Mapui, Amatza, Amaboguana, and the Umfulamokokgumale, which supply the country with water.

Upon several are situated many of the most important military kraals, viz. Amaboguana, Inyatine, Umkano, Umganine, Umhalbatine, Umslaslantala, Gubuluwayo, Umzamala, Umbambo, Umshangiva, Manpangi, Inthlathlangela, and many others. The Gwaii enters the Zambese in 17 degrees 54 minutes South latitude, and 27 degrees 3 minutes East longitude, passing through the Abutua region, which is thickly wooded. The next important rivers are the Umnyaki, the Umvuli, and the Mazoe, and their several branches. The country is very hilly, clothed with dense bush towards the Zambese.

The scenery is grand in many parts; bold massive granite rocks standing out far above the surrounding country give a wildness to the landscape. The Lobolo mountain is the eastern termination of this watershed on the south of the Zambese river, in the Banyai region, a lofty range broken up into many spurs and detached hills, thickly populated, 4210 feet above the sea-level. The Leputa, which is a continuation of the Lobolo, takes a south-west course, through which the Umvuli flows, and several tributaries of the river Panyame, that flows into the Zambese a few miles below the old Jesuit mission station Zumbo, on the north bank of the river. The watershed from the Lobolo mountain takes a south course to 18 degrees 10 minutes South latitude, at an elevation of 4650 feet, continuing in the same course for sixty miles, where the altitude reaches 4780 feet; then turns south-west for 180 miles to Gubuluwayo, the king’s kraal, where it is 4800 feet above sea-level. This military station is in 20 degrees 19 minutes South latitude, 28 degrees 50 minutes East longitude. At this point the watershed is much broken up, taking a westerly course under the name of Matoppo range for 100 miles, at an elevation of 4500 feet, to Umsuaze kraal, where it considerably diminishes in height to 3700 feet. To the south of this station it rises to 3700 feet, where it takes a southern course, leaving the great brak pan Makarakara some twenty miles on the right, and passing east of it; then in a south-west direction to Kaikai in the Kalahara desert, where it joins the central watershed of South Central Africa. The country on the north for some considerable distance continues high table-land. At Sebenane kraal, near the source of the Natu river, it is 3600 feet, and on the Amatza river, thirty miles to the east, the elevation is 3800 feet. At Bobe, on the road to Inyatine, it is 4200 feet; at Sabaque kraal, on the river of the same name, the altitude is 3970 feet; at Maaschen kraal, on the Saturo river, it is 3850 feet; at the old gold-diggings on the Umvuli river, in 17 degrees 54 minutes South latitude, 30 degrees 15 minutes East longitude, the elevation is 3740 feet, and as the Zambese below the Victoria Falls, where the Zimboya river enters it, is 2210 feet, and continues to fall considerably down nearly to Tette, a Portuguese town on the south bank of the Zambese, above where the Mazoe enters, the fall in these rivers is not so great, and all the region between the watershed and that river is not lower in any part than 1300 feet above sea-level; so that the elevation of the watershed above the surrounding country on both sides of it is in no case more than 1700 feet, so that in travelling through the country the rise is almost imperceptible.

This northern region of Lo-Bengulu’s territory, known as Matabeleland, is thickly studded with large military kraals and villages occupied by the Mashona Kaffirs. Some of them are very powerful, so much so, that when they cause the king to be jealous of them, he sends an impi (army) composed of some of his bravest warriors, who make an attack on the station at night when all are fast asleep, and kill every soul except the very young, whom they bring back with them, together with the captured cattle and other booty to the king, which disposes of any anxiety he may have on the score of a rival to his authority.

Ancient gold-diggings and old forts are found in every locality, more particularly in the north and north-east direction towards the Zambese, some of them very extensive, and appear to have been worked for years. Most of the rivers contain gold-dust in their sandy beds, and many of the natives of the present time collect it for their head Indunas, and sell it to the Portuguese at Tette on the Zambese river, a considerable village with beautiful gardens and fruit of every description in perfection. It is now nearly twenty years since the well known elephant-hunter, Mr Hartly, when out hunting in the Mashona country, on the Umvuli river, discovered those ancient gold-diggings now so well known to most travellers who have penetrated so far in as the Northern Gold-Fields, and a hill near is known as Hartly Hill.

More recently they have been visited by Sir John Swinbourne in 1869, but at present nothing can be done to develop the country, from the insecurity of the present state of affairs in the territory. My impression is that gold is spread over the whole country, both in alluvial and in quartz. Reefs of this rock are seen in every direction, bordered by rich deposits of clay, shale, and other rocks, indicative of gold being close at hand. There are several small hills of igneous rocks to be met with, also metamorphic schists and other deposits that have no uniformity in their distribution over the country, which gives better hopes of rich gold deposits being discovered. At the present time no one is allowed in, even to prospect. No traveller enters the country without special permission from the king, and he must be accompanied by several Matabele warriors, professedly as guides and for protection, but absolutely as spies, to see what the white man is up to, and if found looking about on the ground or picking up any stones, he is quickly ordered out of the country, as in the case of St. Vincent Erskine, who was sent for by the king, because he was staying for a day or two at the site of an ancient mine.

It is a region full of interest in every sense of the word. To the mineralogist, geologist, botanist, naturalist, hunter, and others in search of the beauties of nature, this region offers as fine a field as any portion of the world. It is also of great interest to antiquaries, as being the supposed kingdom of the Queen of Sheba, and not without substantial foundation; for do we not find, in every turn we take, ruins of strongholds and extensive remains of gold-workings, the labour of former people who once occupied this land? Scenery more picturesque, grand, and wild cannot be found. Animals, the largest in the world, abound, and of every variety. To the horticulturist a new field is open for discovery.

Flowers and many beautiful trees rarely to be met with elsewhere, grow in great profusion; amongst them the grand old baobab, that has defied winds and storms. Palms grace the country with their presence; mapani, euphorbias, aloes, cacti of every variety and beauty, with crimson flowers, mahogany, ebony, mimosas, acacias, and the beautiful matchabela, the tints of which are of a lovely crimson when springing into leaf, and when they are fully blown turn to a rich green; then again, the leghondi, with its golden yellow leaves, and others equally beautiful but unknown, make up a landscape lovely to look upon. When they fringe the river-banks, beneath which the crocodile and hippopotamus are amusing themselves, and the water-fowl and cranes are busy seeking food, with the birds of rich plumage passing from tree to tree, as pretty a landscape is made up as can be desired, backed, as all the foreground is, by gigantic castellated granite hills and quaint rocks standing out as if representing some animals, so lifelike are their outlines. When first I looked upon one representing a wolf, I could scarcely believe it was so formed by nature. As a field for agriculture none can surpass it. Corn of every kind grows to perfection. Coffee, tea, cotton, indigo, all kinds of spices, india-rubber trees, oranges, and lemons, are found wild; vegetables of all sorts, sweet potato, and many other kinds of plants.

The climate is healthy away from the coast region, and water is plentiful; and, if in our hands, the land would support millions where it now keeps alive thousands of natives; and as a region for the cultivation of the cotton-plant it is the finest I may say in the world, for the cotton, which is indigenous without any cultivation, is superior to the cultivated cotton grown in America. Twenty-five thousand square miles of ground could with little trouble and expense produce as much as the British merchants require, and of superior quality. I forwarded samples to the Right Hon. the Earl of Carnarvon, then Secretary of State for the Colonies, in 1875, and I also left with Sir Bartle Frere, then Governor of South Africa, similar samples in 1877. As a rice-producing country, I know of no better. The Mashonas cultivate it on a small scale, and bring it to Gubuluwayo for sale to the traders and hunters on the station. The grain is larger than that which is brought to England, and less quantity is required for cooking. I have used it for years when opportunity allowed for getting it from the natives.

The missionary stations in this country are at Inyatine, where the Rev. Mr Sykes has for many years been doing duty. The late Rev. Mr Thomas formerly lived there, but he afterwards removed down to Shiloh. The former is sixty miles north of Gubuluwayo, the latter about thirty miles in a north-west direction. Hopefountain is four miles to the north of this military station, where the Rev. Mr Thompson formerly lived; afterwards the Rev. Messrs Elms and Elliott, all of whom are under the London Missionary Society.

Inyati, afterwards altered to Inyatine, was the first royal residence of the dreaded Umselekatze, who ruled his people with a rod of iron, and kept an army of over 8000 warriors, and could bring more into the field if required. He was a king who knew how to rule his people; a splendid warrior himself, he took care that his troops should be so likewise. He died in 1869, and at his death there was a dispute as to who should be his successor. Kuruman, his son by a royal wife, was supposed to be living in Natal, instead of being killed by order of his father; but on inquiry it was stated he had been killed.

Lo-Bengulu, on the 25th January, 1870, was proclaimed king with groat rejoicings. Warriors to the number of 10,000 assembled at the king’s kraal, dressed in full war costume, a helmet of black ostrich feathers, capes and epaulets of the same, strips of cat-skins for their kilts, and other ornamentations on their legs. Armed with short stabbing assagais and shields of oxhide, they formed a circle some twenty deep, paying homage to their new king, singing his praises, keeping time with their feet, and going through various performances, after which a great slaughter of oxen took place, with feasting and Kaffir beer, terminating the day’s proceedings. He has reigned up to the present time without any disturbance amongst his people.

The Mashonas are a separate race from the Matabele, who originally were pure Zulus when they came into this country with their chief Umselekatze, or as he was better known under the name of Moselikatze. Since then many of them have taken to wife the young girls of the Mashona tribe. The great men and high-caste Zulus take pride in keeping themselves pure from any mixture with other races, and in walking amongst them in their kraals a marked difference is seen. The pure Matabele is a fine specimen of the human race; tall, well-made, with regular features and an upright bearing. Lo-Bengulu allows these marriages, as it tends to unite the nation closer together. Generally they look upon the Mashonas as dogs.

The Mashonas are very clever workmen in wood and iron, and make very handsome bowls, snuff-boxes, spoons, daggers, assagais, and spears, which they ornament with carvings. Many of their figures so much resemble ancient Egyptians that it is difficult to distinguish any difference. Quaint musical instruments show great skill, having keys similar to a piano, bass and treble producing very sweet sounds. They make all their iron picks for preparing the ground for the seed. Blankets they make from the wild cotton, which they dye brown; also bags for holding milk or water of the bark of the baobab and other trees. Their bows and arrows are beautifully made. They are very clever in cutting out from a block of wood little stools, which are used for pillows by the young dandies, to preserve their hair from touching the ground when sleeping. The fashion with the young men is to allow their woolly hair to grow quite long, which they increase in length by tying it up with red bark from the trees (mimosa is preferred), and anoint it with fat.

The hair is so arranged that it forms ridges from the front to the back of the head. When sufficiently long, that is about a foot, it is dressed with fat mixed with charcoal, and then divided in the centre, that the curls may fall down on each side, with a band round the head to keep the curls in their place, and to preserve them from dirt or dust. Each dandy carries with him one of these wooden neck-pillows, which are in most cases elaborately carved, and are much prized. Many of their customs are similar to those we see in Egyptian paintings of those people, and when they are sitting down, their figures, face, and features, and mode of dress are in every way Egyptian. Their villages are almost always built on the most inaccessible parts of the mountain ridges, to be safe from any sudden attack of the Matabele warriors. Some of them are perched on the top of masses of granite rocks, so that the people themselves have difficulty to reach them. A pole or ox-reim is used to climb up. Other rocks are used to stow away their corn and food.

The tsetse-fly is common nearly all over the country, but there are certain districts clear of them. I have been told by the natives that cattle born in the country are free from any ill-effect of the bite.

The Mashona huts are very well-made, most of them with circular roofs. The Matabele build their huts very similar to the Bechuanas, but the Zulus of Natal have round roofs fenced in with a high stick fence, and kept very neat and clean.

The Mashonas are a well-made people, and some of the women very good-looking when young, but after twenty they begin to show age. A man may have as many wives as he can buy, but few men have large families.

Gubuluwayro up to recently has been the principal military kraal of Lo-Bengulu; latterly he has removed to another locality. It was on my last visit very extensive, containing several thousand people. His own residence was built similar to any English house, with a verandah, supported by posts. There were several rooms, but most of them were in dreadful disorder; boxes, elephants’ tusks, empty champagne and English beer bottles, karosses, old clothes, guns, shields, and assagais, all covered with dust and dirt. Elephants’ tusks strewed the verandah; there was no room to walk about or seats to sit upon. There were three other buildings, several waggons, an old cart, and rubbish everywhere. Close to the house was his principal cattle kraal, and another smaller one on the left.

The passage leading to the interior of the enclosure passed between; it is only wide enough for one to pass along at a time, and in wet weather is several inches deep in mud. This enclosure exceeded two acres in extent, enclosed by a high strong fence of poles placed double. Each cattle kraal was surrounded in the same way. Several thorn trees grow within the enclosure, under which the waggon stood. His sister Nina occupied one of the houses. She was unmarried, very stout like her brother, and a good friend to all the English visiting the country.

She had great influence with the king, but was a great beggar at the same time. I had not been outspanned half an hour before she sent down a Matabele for some linen; I sent up six yards. She then sent for some beads, and I sent up a pound of them. She sent again for some sugar; I sent about a pound. The next day she wanted more linen to cover over some Kaffir beer she had been making for her brother; I sent her only three yards. It is the same with all who go there.

There were many traders at the station who kept stores, some in brick houses, others in Kaffir huts, situated outside of the military station that surrounded the king’s kraal, leaving an open space of about 300 yards all round between the town and the king’s enclosure, where he reviews his troops on grand occasions. Several trees are growing upon it. The station commands a view in all directions.

The stream from which the town is supplied with water is at the foot of the hill, about a third of a mile from the nearest huts. The country round is very bare of trees. Kaffir gardens are situated on the rising ground beyond the hill, upon which the town is built.

Kaffir corn is the principal food of the people. The women cultivate the land and bring water to their houses, so that there is a constant stream of them with their Kaffir pots going up and down the hill on all sides, conveying it to their houses. Most of the women have little black babies on their backs, supported by well-worn skins of the wild animals killed by the men; with little naked urchins running by their mother’s side, hanging on to the skin worn similar to a kilt, happy as they can be, talking to their neighbours as they meet, singing with all the lightness of a happy heart. They continue to suck until five or six years old.

When we compare their habits with civilised life, there is very little difference. They have the same routine of duty to go through daily in their household affairs, so far as cooking, keeping their huts in order, attending to their gardens and such things. The men make the karosses and attend to their cattle. The Matabele race live precisely in the same way, and have the same habits as their neighbours, the Bechuanas. The king has several country kraals, which he visits at different times for a change.

The country cannot boast of many good roads; there is only one direct from the south. Others from Mongwato go round to the west by the great salt-pan Makarakara. There are also two from the Tati district, and two from Gubuluwayo, and other hunting roads from Inyatine to the Zambese, Victoria Falls, and military kraals in various parts of the territory, many of them very good, others stony and with bad drifts.

Inyatine during the lifetime of Moselikatze was an extensive military station. After his death it was destroyed, and the king removed south, and eventually settled at Gubuluwayo; but it appears that lately he has abandoned that station, and fixed his residence in another locality.

The road from the king’s kraal to Sebenane station, where several roads branch off, one going to Panda-ma-Tenka, Mr G. Westbeech’s large store, passes through a sandy country with numerous pans and vleis, dry in winter, but containing water in summer. In the Lechuma valley beyond, Wankies, a chief, a few years ago, had possession of the country until Lo-Bengulu took it from him, and Wankies and his people crossed the Zambese and settled on its northern bank.

The Victoria Falls are considered to be included in the Matabele kingdom. Although this part of the country is 3000 feet above sea-level, it is very unhealthy during the summer months. Mr G. Westbeech, who has lived and hunted in the country for the last thirteen years, told me in 1878 he had had the fever over thirty times, and when he took quinine the dose would be a small teaspoonful. The country generally through this part is very pretty, in many portions park-like, with clumps of trees in groups; but the roads are fearfully sandy, and the want of water for some six and seven months of the year is a great drawback to the country improving.

But when the time comes, and the people of the Cape Colony are more alive to their own interests, instead of living in their present dormant state, devoting their attention to subjects of no real importance to their prosperity, they will see how vital it is to their interests to have a central railway up through Africa to the Congo basin, and to draw a vast trade south, that would otherwise flow to the west coast, and all the country that is situated on the north side of the Zambese river, up to what is included in the Congo state, a region of untold wealth, teeming with elephants, ostriches, and every kind of large game; thickly populated by intelligent races, who are alive to the advantage of those comforts that civilisation brings into the country. From a want of forethought the colonists have lost the west coast, and as far inland as the 20 degrees East longitude, and they will find the Germans no mean competitors in the interior trade of that vast region.

The Barotse tribe, in particular, which is very numerous, has already received great benefit from the English trade introduced first into the country by Mr Westbeech at the chief’s kraal on the north side of the Zambese, and afterwards by other traders, when the chief Secheke was alive.

The extent of this region north of the river, within a reasonable distance of a railway at the Victoria Falls, is 150,000 square miles. The distance of railway carriage from the Zambese river to Kimberley is 770 miles, to where a railway is already being constructed. A single line could be made at a trifling cost, as the country through which it would pass is comparatively a dead level; and beyond the Vaal river at Barkly, where a bridge is now being erected, only a few small streams would have to be crossed.

The distance is less by several hundred miles from the above region to Kimberley over an easy route, than it is to the Congo river through a difficult and mountainous country, where large rivers would have to be bridged, making a line almost impracticable. Such a line would also open up the country on the south side of the Zambese river. Towns would spring up, and the advantages to the Cape Colony would be incalculable. If fifty miles at a time were laid down and completed, or more, if funds could be obtained, it would not take many years to accomplish this grand object. It would be far more to the advantage of the Colony and English trade in time than extending the railway from Kimberley to the Transvaal, although the commerce may be largely increased under the present Boer rule, with whom we should have trouble in the duties they would levy on every article entering or leaving the state.

I have explored the whole line of country from the Zambese river to Kimberley, and have no hesitation in stating that a better country could not be selected for a railway, or where the cost would be less. The country north of the Zambese river, already spoken of, is one of the most valuable portions of South Central Africa, intersected by large rivers, tributaries of the Zambese, the elevation being nearly 3000 feet above sea-level, with splendid open and extensive grass plains, most valuable for grazing all kinds of stock. It is also a fine corn-growing country. With a railway to the Zambese river, it would be easy for settlers to reach it, and a road for an outlet for their produce. The plan is feasible: it only requires a little more energy on the part of the colonists, whose interests in the trade of the Colony are important, to seriously consider this matter, and develop a plan for carrying it into effect. This would counteract in a great measure the loss the colonists must suffer in their trade with the interior, by the Delagoa Bay railway.

I have referred before to the wild cotton of that part of Africa the quality of which, as I have before stated, is superior to the cultivated American cotton. If the Manchester cotton princes had a little more vitality in their composition, and turned their attention to growing their own cotton, and had their own cotton-fields in the finest part of the world for cotton culture, instead of being dependent on foreign markets for their supply, when at any time that supply may be stopped, they would find that they could produce a better quality of cotton and at a cheaper rate than that now imported to England from the United States of America.

I have explored this extensive cotton-growing region, and have for years devoted much attention to the subject, and from my knowledge of the extent of the country in which the cotton-plant is indigenous, this region would, with proper attention, become the largest cotton-growing country in the world. It is useless to suppose that with the growing competition with other nations, that trade will be the same in the future as it has been in the past. If this idea prevails, the sooner we are disabused of it the better for those who are embarked, in it; and we must devise means whereby they may retain and improve the trade of this country, which must be increased if we are to find employment and food for the growing population, which is enormously increasing. Therefore it is the duty of those who have capital at command and are engaged in mercantile pursuit, to develop the British trade, not only for their own benefit, but for the general good of the nation; and here is a wide field in which their capital can be advantageously employed, and be of immense benefit to the Cape Colony and England.