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Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798

Part 2 — APPENDIX.

Reading edition

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No. I.

Illustrations of the Maps.

In compiling the two maps which accompany this work, the writer has made use of his own observations in that part of it to which those observations had extended. For the remainder of the information exhibited in each, he has trusted to the report of the more intelligent natives, who having frequently traversed the neighbouring countries, might be supposed in some measure qualified to describe what they had seen. Yet he has not ventured to lay down a single position which had not previously been confirmed by the distinct and concordant testimony of at least three or four individuals. Even with this castigation, it is unnecessary to remark how impracticable is the task of approximating the bearings, from the oral testimony of those who have no clear idea of bearings, and scarcely know how to distinguish the eight principal points. Almost equally difficult is it to give the face of a country, or an account of its productions, which the informant perhaps traversed between sleep and waking, or when too much occupied with the sufferings of the road, or the end he had in view, to be at leisure to attend to its detail.

The names of places so obtained and positions so adjusted, it has been thought proper to distinguish by dotted letters, with a view to denote hesitation and uncertainty. The part with which he was himself more particularly acquainted, or which was sufficiently supported by the authority of former maps, is marked with ordinary letters. The writer’s own route is pointed out by a green line, the reported routes by a single engraved line, without colour.

The loss already mentioned of a large portion of his detached papers, has effectually deprived him of the power of presenting the chart of the route with all that exactness and minute detail which ought invariably to accompany all geographical researches. But if he have been compelled to use the result of his celestial observations, which alone his journal furnished, without the recapitulation of particulars, he has been careful to compare them with the bearings which fortunately were most of them preserved, without venturing to force the latter to the former: e.g. the result of his observation, as he found it briefly noted, would have brought Charjé and Mughes several miles farther East; but having found the distance and bearings exactly accord with this position with respect to Assiût, he has preferred it to the attempt of fixing the position of those places, by observation of which he was unable to give adequate proof of the accuracy.

The position of Assiût is fixed, both in latitude and longitude, by observation. That of Charjé in latitude by observation; in longitude, as above described. While at Sheb, the Writer had an opportunity of observing his position at leisure, both in latitude and longitude. At Selimé he enjoyed the same satisfaction. The mountains, to the East of the road, are laid down according to their appearance to the eye of the observer from the villages of Elwah, and the route of the caravan beyond them. Their S.E. extremity, as here marked, rests solely on the report of a native of Mahas. The distance from Selimé to the river, has been judged fully established by the uniform and unvarying testimony of a number of Jelabs of Dongola, &c. who travel that route.

The latitude of Leghéa was variously observed, both in going and returning. Its longitude is only determined by the bearing of the road, relatively to Bîr-el-Malha S. and Selimé N. Several days consumed at Bîr-el-Malha, afforded the means of determining its position both in latitude and longitude.

Sweini and Zeghawa have been placed only according to the bearing and distance computed from Cobbé and Le Haimer. But the two latter places are fixed without much doubt by frequent lunar observations, the occultations of Jupiter’s satellites, &c.

With regard to Cubcabéa and Rîl, no more could be done than to place them according to the uniform and constant report of the natives. They are both places much frequented, and in so small a distance no mistake of importance can have arisen.

The bearings of the road from Cubcabéa to Wara, and thence to the capital of Bornou, are not laid down but from numerous inquiries, and some labour employed in adjusting them. That road occupies sixty days. The position of the capital of Bornou varies from that which is allotted to it in the latest maps, but scrupulously adheres to the bearings and distance given. Abu-Shareb is from Cobbé nearly W. by N. Abu-Shareb to Wara, N.W. by N. From Wara to the capital of Baghermi, between W.N.W. and N.W. by W. Road winding S. From Baghermi to Kottocomb, N. by W. 2 W. From Kottocomb to Bornou nearly in the same direction.

Sennaar, as well as the course of the Nile, the coast of the Arabian gulf, Masouah, Gondar, Swakem, &c. have the same position as in M. Rennell’s map. Sennaar is in longitude 33° 30′ 30″. Cobbé being in 28° 8′, the difference between them will be 5° 2′ 30″—Rîl cannot be more than twelve or thirteen miles E. of Cobbé, but Rîl is only twenty-three days journey from Sennaar. There remain therefore on a direct line 4° 50′ which is about twelve and a half geometrical miles per day; and admitting the smallest possible deviation, will give fourteen miles by the road. This on so long a journey is much more than might be expected, and by no means accords with the route to Bornou, which allows only about nine miles for each day’s march.—D’Anville’s position of Sennaar (29° 39′) would bring it too near to Rîl, leaving only eighty miles between them, or three miles and quarter per day. Whether the truth lie between the observation of Mr. Bruce and the conjecture of D’Anville, or whether the former be well established, and the length of each day’s march may be accounted for from the straitness and facility of the road, some future occasion must determine. One circumstance would seem clear, viz. the distance between the city Sennaar, and the Bahr-el-abiad, which the repeated and unvaried testimonies of the natives relatively to the interval of three, or three and half days, leave no room to doubt, have hitherto been placed much too far apart.

The road from Wara to Dar Kulla exhibits a remarkable coincidence as to the number of rivers and lakes which it passes, with that part of Major Rennell’s last general map of Northern Africa, which forms what he considers as the alluvies of that portion of the continent, though it be neither in the same latitude nor longitude.

Of these various streams little description was obtained. The country they flow through is said to be great part of the year wet and marshy; the heat is excessive, and the people remark that there is no winter. The course of the rivers, if rightly given, is for the most part from E. to W.

The river called Bahr Misselad is said to be a considerable one. It’s source is not described, but appears to be not far distant from the supposed site of the copper mines. Those who frequent this road, ordinarily pass two years from the time of leaving Wara till their return to that place, or Cobbé. Of the time actually employed in the route they differ in their report, but it may be estimated at from 150 to 180 days; at a medium 165. Wangara I have never heard mentioned. Whether it may be the same country with some one of those described is uncertain; but its production being gold, does not accord with any of them; that commodity not being, as far as was related to me, found in any quantity to the W. Zamphara is yet known to several of my informers, as a country near to Bornou; but no particular description was given.

The dotted lines which are seen in the general map, and seem to mark with too much precision the extent of the empires Bergoo, Baghermi, and Kordofân, are chiefly designed to shew the relative situation of those districts, and how they border on each other, or on Fûr. The authority recurred to was only that of the inhabitants of each country, who affirmed that their native empire extended so many days from E. to W. and so many from N. to S. For the general form of Dar-Fûr the authority is somewhat stronger; the precise termination of that empire being accurately known to the several reporters in each principal direction.

The writer, during his stay in Dar-Fûr, could never find the variation of the needle greater than sixteen degrees W. In what relates to that country, therefore, he has been guided by that quantity of variation.

No. II.

ITINERARIES.

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From Cobbé to Sennaar.

Bearing. Days.

From Cobbé to Shawer 1½

From Shawer to Rîl S.S.E. 2

At Rîl is a large pool of water, never completely dry, and a little to the E. of it a spacious house built by Sultan Teraub, eldest brother of the present Monarch.

From Rîl to Fadow ⎱ ⎰ E. ⎰ ⎱ 3

From Fadow to Cawb 3

Near Cawb commences a ridge of hills, running N. and S. or nearly so.

From Cawb to Dar Hummâr ⎫ ⎬ ⎭ Mean bearing E. ⎧ ⎨ ⎩ 2

From Dar Hummâr to Emdî 3

From Emdî to Kreiga 0¼

In each of these towns are Fukkara, who administer justice.

From Kreiga to Ibeit[64] E. 1

Between Kreiga and Ibeit is Abu-Harrâs, a place distant from the former three hours. Its neighbourhood is laid out in gardens belonging to the people of Dongola established there, in which they cultivate onions, &c. The situation of Abu-Harrâs is in length N. and S. and the wells which supply it with water are to the S. of the town.

From Ibeit to Miteina 0½

From Miteina to Autosh 2

From Autosh to Yassîn 0½

Yassîn is a town of Fukkara.

From Yassîn to Breissa, deep sand 0½

From Breissa to Cone 1

Cone is at the foot of a mountain of the same name, which lies S. of the road. Near Cone, a little S. of the road, is a pool of water, and this is a place where travellers commonly repose themselves.

From Cone to Kinnana 1

From Kinnana to Deggîn 1

From Deggîn to Hellet Allais[65], on the Bahr-el-abiad, the place which the ferry-boats frequent. 1

Hellet Allais is situated on the W. of the river. The river (Bahr-el-abiad) is here of such breadth, that the features of a person standing on the other side cannot be distinguished, but the human voice is heard.—A number of trees is seen here to the W. of the river, not to the E. Hellet Allais is altogether built of clay.—A large palm tree grows in the middle of the town.

On the eastern side of the river is Shillûk—not far removed from it, being reported to be within sight of Allais.

Shillûk is a town of idolaters, built with clay. The inhabitants have no other clothing than bands of long grass, which they pass round the waist and between the thighs. They are all black; both sexes are accustomed to shave their heads. The people of Shillûk have the dominion of the river, and take toll of all passengers, in such articles of traffic as pass among them. The name Shillûk is not Arabic, and its meaning is unknown.—When asked concerning their name or country, the people reply Shillûk. When employed in transporting Mohammedans across the ferry, they occasionally exhibit the importance which their situation gives them. After the Mûslim has placed himself in the boat, they will ask him, “Who is the master of that river?” The other replies, as is usual, “Ullah or Rubbani”—God is the master of it. “No,” answers the Shillûk, “you must say that such a one (naming his chief) is the master of it, or you shall not pass.” They are represented as shewing hospitality to such as come among them in a peaceable manner, and as never betraying those to whom they have once accorded protection. The particulars of their worship, as in most other instances where I have had my information from Mohammedans, have not been described.

From Shillûk to Dar Ruga E. ¼N. 1

From Dar Ruga to Waalia E. 1

From Waalia to Shadli E. 1

From Shadli to Sennaar 0¼

Sennaar, Medinet el Fūn̄ or Fungi, is situated on the river which flows from Habbesh, which river is much smaller than the Bahr-el-abiad, and before the annual increase is fordable between Sennaar and Basboch.

The slaves who have usurped the government reside in Terfeia, on the opposite side of the river. Between them and the people of the city have been perpetual skirmishes for the last six years. (1794).

The Bahr-el-abiad suffers the same periodical increase and diminution as the Nile in Egypt.

From Sennaar to Gondâr.

From Terfeia to Rhad E.N.E. 1

From Rhad to Dender E. 1

From Dender to Béla S.E. 1

From Béla to Teawa 1

Rhad is on the banks of a river of the same name. After passing Béla, the traveller leaves the river, and proceeds by a mountainous road to Teawa. The soil in the neighbourhood of Teawa is clay, and the town is built of that material. The people of the place use for bread the Mahriek, (white maize,) which grows there luxuriantly.

From Teawa to Râs el fîl S.E. 1¼

From Râs el fîl to Gondâr E.S.E. 7

The officer who governs Râs el fîl is appointed by the king of Habbesh.—Inhabitants of Râs el fîl called Giberti.

Road from Sennaar to Swakem.

From Sennaar to Teawa 4

From Teawa to Atbara, a town on that river E. 1

From Atbara to Hallanga N. 2

The people of Hallanga are Mohammedans, but use not the Arabic language generally. They are of an olive complexion. The Mahriek in their neighbourhood is said to grow so large, that the stem at bottom is seen of the size of a man’s wrist.

From Hallanga to Swakem N.E. 12

During great part of the way the road is mountainous and rocky. The space between the two last places is uncultivated, and inhabited only by wandering Arabs. These are of two races, Bijjé and Okoot. Both of them breed camels in great number, sheep, &c. Swakem is situated on an island, in which the governor and principal persons reside: but the greater number live on the main land.

Road from Sennaar to Mahas.

From Sennaar to Herbajé N. ¼W. 3

From Herbajé to Halfeia N. 5

At Halfeia is the confluence of the Bahr-el-abiad and Bahr el asrek.

From Halfeia to Chendi ⎫ ⎬ ⎭ N. ⎧ ⎨ ⎩ 3

From Chendi to Birbîr 3

From Birbîr to Shaikié 3

From Shaikié to Dongola N.W. 2

From Dongola to Mahas N. 1

From Sennaar to Fazoglo.

From Sennaar to Dachala E. 3

From Dachala to Emsirié S.E. 1

From Emsirié to Louni S. 3

From Louni to Gerbîn S. 3

The people of Dachala are Mohammedans residing on the western bank of the Bahr el asrek.—Gerbîn is a mountainous place, which serves for confining malefactors under the government of Sennaar.

Mountainous—From Gerbîn to Fazoglo S. 4

The mines of Fazoglo afford much gold: they belong to Sennaar.

From Gerbîn to Gondar.

From Fazoglo there is no direct road. Having returned to Gerbîn,

From Gerbîn to Hassîb E. 2

From Hassîb to Beida E. ¼S. 2

Beida is the first town under the Abyssinian government, and is described as chiefly inhabited by fugitive slaves, who belong to persons within that empire.

From Beida to Kourmi 3

From Kourmi to Hasseb-ullah 3

This road is mountainous, circuitous, and abounds with springs of water. The civet cat is so common in this district, that in every house, it is said, there are fifteen or twenty tame ones.

From Hasseb-ullah to Gondâr E. 10

Mountainous and difficult road.

Sundry routes of the merchants of Sennaar.

From Sennaar to Gebel-el-Moié S.W. 1

From Gebel-el-Moié to Bahr-el-abiad W.S.W. 1½

From Sennaar to Bahhadîn S.S.W. 0½

From Bahhadîn to Menâjel S.W. 2

From Menâjel to the Bahr-el-abiad. W. 2

Road to Gondar.

From Sennaar to Terfeia 0½

From Terfeia to Subî-deleib 0½

From Subî-deleib to Wallad Midani 0½

From Midani to the Bahr-el-asrek 0½

From the river to Mendala 2

From Mendala to Kaila 1

Kaila is mountainous.

From Kaila to Embutteik 1

Mountainous and deep sand.

From Embutteik to Goze, or the sands 2

From Goze to the Atbara 3

This country is inhabited by the Bisharîn Arabs, who are Mohammedans.

From Atbara to Gebel Cussa 3

From Gebel Cussa to Gebel en Narr 3

From Gebel en Narr to Gondar 12

A Route which seems to be uncertain, and of which the bearings are not accurately given.

From the Goze or sands of the Atbara, abovementioned, to El-Edd belonging to the Bijjé 3

From El-Edd to Swakem N.E. 12

This road is filled with Arabs.

From Swakem to Gebel-el-Hellé W. 3

From Gebel-el-Hellé to Gebel-el-Sillah ⎫ ⎬ ⎭ S.W. ⎧ ⎨ ⎩ 2

From Gebel-el-Sillah to Gebel-el-beit 2

From Gebel-el-Beit to Birbîr 6

All this road from Swakem to Birbîr is represented as rocky.—Birbir is situated in a clayey soil.

From Birbîr to Wullad-el-Megedûb ⎫ ⎬ ⎭ S. ⎧ ⎨ ⎩ 2

From Wullad-el-Megedûb to Bisharié 2

From Bisharié to Shûkûrié 3

Bisharié are a foreign race, but Shûkûrié speak Arabic as their native language.

Arabs—From Shûkûrié to Hellalié 4

From Hellalié to Bahr-el-asrek 1

From Bahr-el-asrek to Em-ushar 1

From Em-ushar to Wullad-el-fûrûk 1

From Wullad-el-fûrûk to Hummûr 2

Clayey soil.

Mohammedans—From Hûmmûr to Senût-abûd 2

From Ibeit to Emdurmân and Halfeia, and return to Ibeit by another road.

From Ibeit to Bahra E. 1½

From Bahra to Emganatû N.E. 2

From Emganatû to Shegeik N.E. 1

From Shegeik to Gimmoyé N. 2

From Gimmoyé to Emdurmân N. 2

All this country is inhabited by Mohammedans, who speak Arabic alone.—Gimmoyé and Emdurmân are both on the W. bank of the Bahr-el-abiad, and the latter is at the place of union between that river and the Abawi.—Returning W.

From Emdurmân to Harraza, a mountain of difficult passage S.W. 3

Road desert and destitute of water.

The inhabitants of Harraza are idolaters, of mixed complexion, but most of them of a reddish hue.—They breed some horses, which they mount.

From Harraza to Abu-hadîd ⎫ ⎬ ⎭ S.W. ⎧ ⎨ ⎩ 1

From Abu-hadîd to Zerawy 0½

From Zerawy to Esherchar 1

Esherchar is famous for its salt, which is gathered by the Arabs, transported to other places and sold. The people of this last place are Arabs, but those of Zerawy, Harraza, and Abu-hadîd, neither Arabs nor Mohammedans.

From Esherchar to Bisherié S. 1

Road desert.

Bisherié is full of palm-trees.

From Bisherié to Bahra ⎱ ⎰ S.S.W. ⎰ ⎱ 1

From Bahra to Ibeit 1½

Route from Ibeit to Sheibôn, where are gold mines, and other places, returning to Ibeit.

From Ibeit to Bahra E. 1½

From Bahra to Khûkjé S.E. 4¼

From Khûkjé to Abu-jenûch S. 1

From Abu-jenûch to Seijé E. 0½

From Seije to Tummara S.E. 2

Between the two last places is a rocky road, with intervals of deep sand and clay.

From Tummara to Demîk S. ¼E. 1

The people from Abu-jenûch hither are idolaters, and destitute of clothing. The soil at and near Demîk is clay.

From Demîk to Khéga S. ¼E. 1

From Khéga to Dibû S.S.E. 0½

Mountainous and rocky.

From Dibû to Sheibôn S.S.E. 1¼

Clayey soil.

Near this place, in a deep glen or valley, much gold is found, both dust and in small pieces. The natives collect the dust in quills of the ostrich and vulture, and in that condition sell it to the merchants. They have a ceremony on discovering a large piece of gold, of killing a sheep on it before they remove it. The people are all black, as are those above mentioned from Abu-jenûch hither. They have some form of marriage, i.e. of an agreement between man and woman to co-habit. Women of full age wear a piece of platted grass on their parts. The younger and unmarried are quite naked. The slaves, which are brought in great numbers from this quarter, are some prisoners of war among themselves, (for their wars are frequent,) and some seduced by treachery and sold. But it is said to be a common practice for the father in time of scarcity to sell his children.

At Sheibôn are some Mohammedans, who live among the idolaters and wear clothing: it is not said whether Arabs or not.

The people above described are independent tribes of negroes, who have no other ruler than their respective chiefs, the authority of whom is very small, except in time of war. The Mecque of Sennaar used to claim some tribute from the people of Sheibôn, but received nothing regularly.

From Sheibôn to Shurrû ⎱ ⎰ W.S.W. ⎰ ⎱ 0½

From Shurrû to Luca 1

Luca is another place where resides an independent chief: it is also famous for its gold, which, as at Sheibôn, is the only medium of exchange among the inhabitants.

From Luca to Koheila W. 1½

In Koheila are Arabs, not subject to any monarch of the country. Some idolaters also live among them.

From Koheila to Tlinga, a town ⎫ ⎬ ⎭ W. ¼W. ⎧ ⎨ ⎩ 1

People of Tlinga Mohammedans.—This country is called by the Arabs Dar Kinnana.

From Tlinga to Gebel Sahd 0½

Gebel Sahd is within the dominion of Sennaar.

From Gebel Sahd to Baha-ed-dîn N. 1

Still Dar Kinnana.

From Baha-ed-dîn to Gebel-el-abîd N.N.E. 1

From Gebel-el-abîd to Tumbûl N. 1

Tumbûl is under the government of the king of the Tuclawi.

From Tumbûl to Seisabân ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ N. ⎧ ⎪ ⎪ ⎨ ⎪ ⎪ ⎩ 1

Seisabân is inhabited by Arabs alone.

From Seisabân to Abdome 0½

From Abdome to Tuggala, capital of the king of Tuclawi 0½

This district is called Sagurnié, country of the mountaineers.

From Tuggala to Deir 1

From Deir to Gebel-el-deir 1

From Gebel-el-deir to Gebel-el-Bucclé N.N.W. 1

From Gebel-el-Bucclé to Ibeit N. 0½

From Rîl to Wara, capital of Bergoo.

From Rîl to Gebel Marra, deep sand W. 2

Gebel Marra to Bishara Taib W. 2

Bishara Taib to the confines of Fûr W. 5

All this road is mountainous and rocky, and the inhabitants from Rîl W. to the confines of Fûr are Mohammedans. The water on Gebel Marra, which is a lofty mountain, rises with some remarkable circumstances, and it is said to be sulphureous. The people there feed partly on wheat, which grows near the place, partly on Mahreîk.

The people who inhabit the confines of Fûr W. are called Tûmûrkée.

From the confines to Dar Ruma W. ¼N. 8

Desert, sand and clay, some water.

From Dar Ruma to Kibbéid ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ N.E. ⎧ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎨ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎩ 2

Kibbeid is situated on a hill or rock.

From Kibbéid to Kajachsha 1

From Kajachsha to Bendala 1¼

Bendala is inhabited by the slaves of the Sultan of Bergoo.—The people of Ruma, and thence to Bendala are idolaters.

From Bendala to Wullad-el-Bucca 1

Bucca is a mountainous district.

From Bucca to Dar Misselâd 1

From Dar Misselâd to Wara, the residence of the Sultan of Bergoo 2¼

From Wara to Bahr-el-Gazalle.

From Wara to Nimr, where the merchants reside, as at Cobbé in Dar-Fûr W. 0¼

From Nimr to Battah 2

Battah is situated on a small river, which flows from the S. and then deviating to the W. falls into the Bahr el Fittré. Battah belongs to the Misselâd.

From Battah to Dirota W. 1

From Dirota to Dar Hummâr 0½

Road, clayey soil.

From Dar Hummâr to Coseiât 1

Dar Hummâr rocky.

From Coseiât to Shungeiât 1

Two towns of idolaters.

From Shungeiât to Dar Dajeou—Caffres 1

Cooka, Mohammedans—From Dar Dajeou to Dar Cooka 3

From Cooka to Muddago 2

In Muddago are Mohammedans, who are governed by a petty prince under the king of Bergoo.

From Muddago to Bahr-el-Fittré ⎫ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎭ N.W. ⎧ ⎪ ⎨ ⎪ ⎩ 1½

The people on the banks of Bahr-el-Fittré are called Abu-semmîn, and are Mohammedans. They use little boats for the purpose of passing from one place to another on the river.

From Bahr-el-Fittré to Bahr-el-Gazalle 2

Road deep sand, no trees.

The neighbourhood of the Bahr-el-Gazalle is inhabited by Arabs, who feed camels and sheep, and some oxen.

Route from Khukjé to the Bahr-el-ada, and thence towards the Bahr-el-abiad.

From Khukjé to Baraka S.S.W. 3

Baraka is inhabited by independent Arabs.

The greater part of this road is deep sand; the remainder, from Baraka by the Bahr-el-ada, is clay. The part of that river, which is here meant, is occupied by tribes of Arabs feeding cows and sheep; they are called Missicié. This part of the river is also frequented by wild and ferocious animals. The Missicié Arabs comb their hair back, twist it, and fasten it in the form of a scorpion’s tail behind. They collect honey of the wild kind in great quantity, and hunt the elephant.

From Baraka to Tûrrût S.E. 4

From Tûrrût to Jungeiôn S.E. 1

The people of Jungeiôn are tall and black; they have cows, sheep, and goats, and feed on the Mahriek or white maize. They collect the dung of the animals mentioned, dry it, roast it on the fire, and afterwards use it for a bed. These people are very numerous. The country in their neighbourhood is all a plain, and the soil clay. They have a practice, apparently superstitious, of milking their cows into a vessel with a narrow mouth, that the milk may not be seen, and never pour it into a dish or bowl; and any stranger who visits them is obliged to drink of the dugs of the cow, as do the calves.

From Jungeiôn to Shăd S.E. 1

From Shăd to Inigulgulé N. ¼

Route from Khukjé to the Bahr-el-ada, thence toward the Bahr-el-abiad, and returning to Rîl.

The inhabitants of Inigulgulé are idolaters. They clothe themselves with a kind of cotton cloth.

From Inigulgulé to the residence of the king of Ibbé E. ¼N. 1½

From said residence to the confines of Dar-Fûr N.W. 4

From the confines to Tubeldié 2

From Tubeldié to Rîl 8

All this road is sandy, but filled with many and large trees.

Road from Bahr-el-gazalle to Bornou.

From Bahr-el-gazalle to the capital of Dar Baghermé N.E. 3

From the said residence to Kottocom N. ¼W. ⎫ ⎬ ⎭ 18

The inhabitants of this district are Mohammedans. In the road two rivers are crossed by the traveller, one of which is called Kitchena. It runs from S.E. to N.W.

From Kottocom to Bornou, the Imperial city N. ¼W.

The road lies in part through sand, in part through deep clay. There are many trees. The neighbourhood of the Bahr-el-gazalle seems by the description to be a forest.

The city Bornou is surrounded by a wall, in which there are four gates, opening E., W., N., and S. A small river runs near it, which falls into the Bahr-el-gazalle.

Bergoo is said to be fifteen days in extent from E. to W. and from N. to S. twenty days.—Bagarmé, in the former direction, twelve, in the latter, fifteen days.—Bagarmé has many troops, but Bergoo is estimated the strongest. The people of Bergoo are remarkable for their zealous attachment to the faith, and read the Korân daily.

Some description of Bergoo.

Within about a day’s journey of Wara are said to be eight large mountains, the inhabitants of each of which use a distinct language. They are Mohammedans, and said to be brave, furnishing the armies of the Sultan of Bergoo with recruits as often as required. One of the mountains, called Kergna, is situated S.E.; another W. which is inhabited by a people called Wullad Mazé; Gebel Mimi N. Gebel Absenûn E. Gebel Abdurrûg E.

Other mountains of Bergoo are, Gebel Tama, N. Gebel Kashimirié, W., each of them two days from Wara. Gebel Abu-hadîd, E. the same distance.

Three days W. of Wara is the river called Bahr Misselâd.

Route from Wara to Cubcabéa in Dar-Fûr, and another route from the last place back to Wara.

From Wara to Abu-shareb S.E. 5

From Abu-shareb to the confines of Fûr E. ¼S. 1½

From the confines to Emdokne E. 1

From Emdokne to Dar Misseladîn ⎱ ⎰ E. ¼S. ⎰ ⎱ 1

From Misseladîn to Cubcabéa 3

From Cubcabéa to Gellé N.W. ¼W. 1

From Gellé to Gimmer N.E. ¼N. 4

The Sultan of Gimmer is subject to Fûr.—The people are Mohammedans. In the road is found water, and the soil is sand and rock.

From Gimmer to Zeghawa E. ¼N. 2

Mountainous.

The Sultan of Zeghawa is also dependent on Fûr.

From Zeghawa to Tama ⎱ ⎰ N.N.W. ⎰ ⎱ 2½

From Tama to the confines 1

From the confines to Abu-senûn 2

From Abu-senûn to Wara W. 8

A route sometimes taken by the merchants of Bergoo.

From Wara to Emjûfûr 2

From Emjûfûr to Timé Degeou 1½

Another route.

From Wara to Jumbo ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ N. with little variation E. ⎧ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎨ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎩ 1

From Jumbo to Doreng 1

From Doreng to Dageou 2

Sandy road—Mohammedans.

From Dageou to Kergna 2

From Kergna to Ghannîm 2

From Ghannîm to Duida 2

This road is mountainous, soil sandy, many trees.

The people Mohammedans, under the government of Bergoo.

From Duida to Bencia 1½

From Bencia to Dongata 3½

From Dongata to Bendala W. 3½

Mountain.

From Bendala to Bujid S.S.W. 2½

From Bujid to Kibbeid 3½

Mountainous.

From Kibbeid to Kajachsa ⎫ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎭ S. ⎧ ⎪ ⎨ ⎪ ⎩ 2

From Kajachsa to Baniân 2½

From Baniân to Ain 3½

From Ain to Kuddano 1½

From Kuddano to Gizân S.E. 2

From Gizân to Wara S. 4

Another route from Wara, and returning thither.

From Wara to Middeisîs ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ N.E. ⎧ ⎪ ⎪ ⎨ ⎪ ⎪ ⎩ 2½

From Middeisîs to Beit-el-Habbûba 2

From Beit-el-Habbûba to Truanié 2½

From Truanié to Gidîd 1½

From Gidîd to Kuddano 2

From Kuddano to Wara 3

Another route.

From Wara to Birket-el-Rumli W.S.W. 4

From Birket-el-Rumli to Goze, or the sands N. 2

From Goze to Dirota E. 2½

From Dirota to Butta E. 2

From Butta to Wara E. 2½

Near Butta is a small river, of which my informer remembered not the name.—This road is full of a species of tree, whose leaves are described as white, and which bears a fruit, which, however, is not eaten, except by the camels which are fond of it; it is called Culcul.

Route from Cobbé to the copper mines of Fertît.

From Cobbé to Cussé ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ S. ¼W. ⎧ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎨ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎩ 1

From Cussé to Currio 1¾

From Currio to Treiga 1¼

Sandy road.

From Treiga to Beit Melek Eide 1

From Beit Melek Eide to Dar Misselâd 3

Rocky.

From Dar Misselâd to Dar Marra 1

Caffres—From Dar Marra to Dar Fungaro 3

One day and a half mountain, the remainder forest and clayey soil.

From Dar Fungaro to Dar-el-abid-es-Sultan- Fûr 2½

From the latter to Dar-el-Nahâs 8½

Rocky road, earth where visible is red.

The people wear a slight covering over the parts of generation, in other respects are quite naked.

From Dahr-el-Nahas to Bahr Taisha ⎱ ⎰ E. ⎰ ⎱ 3

From Bahr Taisha to Bahr-el-abiad 4½

The former falls into the latter at a place called Tenderni, which is peopled by idolaters, called Cusni. This spot is full of palm trees, and another kind of tree, which by description would seem to be the cocoa.

Here it is seen that the distance between Cobbé and the copper mine is 23½ days, direction nearly S. and that the Bahr-el-abiad is 7½ days distant from that place, direction generally E.

Route from Dar Bergoo to the sources of the Bahr-el-abiad.

From Abu Telfân South, ten days journey, is said to be the source of the Bahr-el-abiad: but the particulars of the route my informer was unable to give me, he not having travelled it. The place is called Donga, and is the residence of a chief or king of an idolatrous nation. The country there is very mountainous, and in the spot where the river rises are said to be forty distinct hills: these are called Kumri. From them a great number of springs issues, which uniting into one great channel form the Bahr-el-abiad. The people of Bergoo go thither sometimes to seize captives, but there is no trade between them and the natives. The people are quite naked, black, and idolaters. The place is said to be twenty days removed from the confines of Bornou. All the road thither is mountainous. From Donga to Shillûk 30 days.

No. III.

METEOROLOGICAL TABLE FOR THE YEAR 1794.

JANUARY.

Day of the Month. Height of Therm. 7 A.M. Height of Therm. 3 P.M. Course of the Wind.

1 58 76 ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ Always Northerly.

2 60 76

3 59 75

4 61 80

5 60 79

6 61 79

7 57 78

8 53 76

9 58 78

10 59 80

11 56 75

12 51 72

13 53 73

14 49 70

15 50 70

16 52 74 W.

17 51 74 W.N.W.

18 51 76

19 53 78

20 55 76 N.W.

21 53 74

22 56 79 W.

23 55 78

24 51 72 W.S.W.

25 52 76

26 58 80 ⎫ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎭ S.W.

27 57 80

28 60 81

29 63 82

30 60 80

31 61 81

FEBRUARY.

Day of the Month. Height of Therm. 7 A.M. Height of Therm. 3 P.M. Course of the Wind.

1 62 69 ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ No settled wind.

2 61 72

3 58 74

4 58 73

5 52 70

6 50 70

7 54 73

8 55 74

9 53 71 N.

10 56 76 N.

11 60 78 ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ S.W. and S.

12 61 77

13 65 81

14 64 81

15 61 80

16 63 82

17 62 80

18 60 81

19 58 76

20 58 75

21 55 75 W.

22 56 75 W.S.W.

23 55 72

24 54 72 S.

25 56 71

26 53 70

27 54 75

28 52 71

MARCH.

Day of the Month. Height of Therm. 7 A.M. Height of Therm. 3 P.M. Course of the Wind.

1 73 83 ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ Westerly

2 72 83

3 74 84

4 74 85

5 73 82

6 76 84

7 80 83

8 80 84 S.

9 76 84 S.

10 76 84 S.W.S.

11 72 85

12 75 86

13 73 84

14 73 84

15 74 86 S.W.

16 76 86

17 77 86

18 75 87 S.E.

19 78 87 S.

20 80 83 S.E.

21 79 86

22 80 81 S.E.

23 81 81

24 79 87 S.

25 78 85 S.

26 77 85 S.

27 79 85

28 76 84

29 79 86

30 77 85 W.S.W.

31

APRIL.

Day of the Month. Height of Therm. 7 A.M. Height of Therm. 3 P.M. Course of the Wind.

1 80 97 ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ Generally N. or N.N.W.

2 79 96

3 79 97

4 78 95

5 82 98

6 80 96

7 81 96

8 79 95

9 80 94

10 80 94½

11 81 96

12 82 96

13 79 94

14 80 95

15 82 98 S.

16 83 98 S.S.E.

17 83 98½ S.

18 83 99 S.E.

19 80 97

20 81 97 S.

21 81 96 S.

22 79 95

23 80 94 N.W.

24 82 96

25 82½ 98 S.

26 82 98 S.

27 84 100 S.

28 84 101 S.

29 83 101

30 80 95 N.W.

MAY.

Day of the Month. Height of Therm. 7 A.M. Height of Therm. 3 P.M. Course of the Wind.

1 85 89 South or South- easterly winds most part of this month.

2 88 92

3 88 94

4 86 95

5 85 95

6 84 94

7 84 96

8 84½ 96

9 85 97

10 86 97

11 87 97

12 87 98

13 87 99

14 82 94

15 81 94

16 82½ 95

17 86 99

18 86 99

19 85 97

20 86 96½

21 84 94

22 83 90

23 85 96

24 87 96

25 86 98

26 86 96

27 88 97

28 87 99

29 87 100

30 85 98

31 84 98

JUNE.

Day of the Month. Height of Therm. 7 A.M. Height of Therm. 3 P.M. Course of the Wind.

1 80 94 N.W.

2 77 86 N.W.

3 82 90 N.W.

4 83 94 N.

5 83 94 N.

6 84 94 S.E.

7 84 95 S.

8 84 97 S.

9 82 90 N.W.

10 81 90 N.W.

11 81 87

12 83 89 N.W.

13 86 91 N.W.

14 87 95 S.E.

15 87 95 S.E.

16 86 95 S.

17 88 96 S.

18 87 96 S.

19 82 89 ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ S.E. chiefly.

20 83 88

21 82½ 88

22 81 90

23 81 91

24 80 92½

25 79 92

26 76 90

27 77 90

28 79 94

29 80 97

30 81 97

JULY.

Day of the Month. Height of Therm. 7 A.M. Height of Therm. 3 P.M. Course of the Wind.

1 82 93 ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ S.E. or Calm, all this time.

2 85 95

3 85 98

4 85 94

5 83 94

6 85 94½

7 87 95

8 86 97

9 87 97

10 88 97

11 87 95

12 84 93

13 82 93

14 82 90

15 82 91

16 81 92½

17 83 94 N.W.

18 83 94 N.

19 83 93 N.W.

20 86 95 S.W.

21 85 96 W.

22 86 96 S.W.

23 84 92 ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ S. or S.E.

24 80 92

25 80 91

26 81 93

27 82½ 94

28 82 94

29 85 97

30 85 98

31 85 98

AUGUST.

Day of the Month. Height of Therm. 7 A.M. Height of Therm. 3 P.M. Course of the Wind.

1 79 90

2 99 93

3 82 93 S.E.

4 80 91 S.

5 80 91

6 84 96

7 85 95

8 82 94

9 82½ 93 N.

10 83 94 N.N.W.

11 84 94 E.

12 83 94 S.E.

13 86 97

14 84 92

15 84 92

16 85 94

17 82 91 S.

18 80 92

19 75 92

20 80 93 N.W.

21 81 94 S.E.E.

22 81 94

23 83 94

24 84 97 ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ Generally S. or S.E.

25 84 97

26 80 92

27 83 92

28 82 93

29 84 95

30 85 95

31 84 96

SEPTEMBER.

Day of the Month. Height of Therm. 7 A.M. Height of Therm. 3 P.M. Course of the Wind.

1 82 94

2 79 92 E. ¼S.

3 78 92 E.S.E.

4 80 95

5 81 95

6 80 94 E.

7 78 93

8 82 94 S.E.E.

9 82 96 S. ¼E.

10 80 95

11 84 95 S.E. ½E.

12 84 93

13 83 94 S.E.

14 81 92

15 84 95

16 80 94

17 79 90 E.

18 80 91 E.N.E.

19 80 92 N.E.

20 78 92

21 82 94

22 82 93

23 79 90

24 80 93 ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ Generally N.E.

25 79 94

26 78 92

27 80 92½

28 82 94

29 83 95

30 80 92

OCTOBER.

Day of the Month. Height of Therm. 7 A.M. Height of Therm. 3 P.M. Course of the Wind.

1 78 90 ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ For the most part Northerly.

2 78 90

3 77 91

4 80 91½

5 76 90

6 77 92

7 82 92

8 82 93

9 80 92

10 79 92

11 78 90

12 80 89

13 81 90

14 76 90 N.E.

15 76 88 N.

16 76 89 N.

17 79 91

18 78 90 N.N.E.

19 80 89

20 82 94

21 82 93

22 79 93 N.W.

23 80 93

24 78 89 N.

25 78 90 N.

26 80 91 N.W.

27 79 92

28 77 90

29 77 89

30 76 89

31 79 90

NOVEMBER.

Day of the Month. Height of Therm. 7 A.M. Height of Therm. 3 P.M. Course of the Wind.

1 79 91 ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ W. and often S.W.

2 78 88

3 78 88

4 79 87

5 78 88

6 78 86

7 76 86

8 74 85

9 74 86

10 75 85½

11 73 84

12 73 85

13 73 86

14 76 86

15 72 83½

16 74 84

17 74 82

18 73 82 N.W.

19 75 82 N.

20 74 83

21 72 81 N.

22 72 81½ N.

23 73 81½ ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ N. or N.W.

24 73 82

25 72 83

26 74 83½

27 73 82

28 73 81½

29 72 82

30 71½ 83

DECEMBER.

Day of the Month. Height of Therm. 7 A.M. Height of Therm. 3 P.M. Course of the Wind.

1 68 80½ N.W.

2 69 80 N.W.

3 71 81

4 73 82 N.N.W.

5 73 83 S.W.

6 72½ 82 S. & E.

7 71 80 S.E.

8 73 83

9 72 80

10 72 83 N.W.

11 69 80 N.W.

12 68 79 N.W.

13 68 81 N.

14 68 82 N. ¼W.

15 67 81 ⎫ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎭ No settled wind.

16 66 82

17 66½ 82

18 67 81

19 67 81 ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ S. and S.E.

20 68 82

21 70 84

22 71 84

23 70 84

24 70 82

25 70 81½

26 66 80

27 66 81

28 65 79 N.W.

29 67 79 N.W.

30 67 81

31 68 81

METEOROLOGICAL TABLE FOR THE YEAR 1795.

JANUARY.

Day of the Month. Height of Therm. 7 A.M. Height of Therm. 3 P.M. Course of the Wind.

1 59 75 ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ Generally N.W. or N. and very violent.

2 64 78

3 58 74

4 58 76

5 60 76

6 61 76

7 62 77

8 63 78

9 63 76

10 63 76

11 60 75

12 57 69

13 57 69

14 57 71

15 56 73

16 56 73

17 55 72½

18 59 77

19 58 77

20 58 78

21 60 81

22 60 79

23 59 79

24 60 79 ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ S. and S.E. or calm.

25 58 80

26 62 80

27 60 81

28 62½ 81

29 60 80

30 61 80

31 59 78½

FEBRUARY.

Day of the Month. Height of Therm. 7 A.M. Height of Therm. 3 P.M. Course of the Wind.

1 57 74

2 56 75 N.

3 59 75 N.

4 60 77 N.W.

5 60 76 N.

6 61 76

7 57 72 N.W.

8 48 66 N.

9 50 71 N.

10 54 71

11 52 74

12 55 76 N.N.W.

13 55 74

14 57 75 N.W.

15 56 76

16 59 76

17 59 76

18 60 78 ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ Generally South.

19 60 80

20 63 80

21 64 81

22 65 81

23 65 83

24 65 82

25 64 82½

26 64 82

27 66 83

28 66 84

MARCH.

Day of the Month. Height of Therm. 7 A.M. Height of Therm. 3 P.M. Course of the Wind.

1 65 81 ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ Very variable.

2 66 84

3 66 80

4 66 82

5 74 86

6 72 90

7 74 90

8 74 91

9 69 88

10 68 88

11 68 90

12 71 90

13 72½ 92

14 73 92 S.W.

15 71 92 S.W.

16 70 91

17 72 91 W.

18 74 92

19 75 93

20 76 93 ⎱ ⎰ S.

21 75 93

22 75 92½

23 74 93

24 72½ 92

25 71 92

26 77 94 S.

27 74 91

28 76 90

29 76 93

30 73 92

31 70 91 N.W.

APRIL.

Day of the Month. Height of Therm. 7 A.M. Height of Therm. 3 P.M. Course of the Wind.

1 70 90 N.W.

2 72 90 N.

3 72 92

4 73 92

5 76 93

6 76 93

7 77 93

8 77 94

9 77 94

10 80 96 ⎫ ⎬ ⎭ S.S.E.

11 80 96

12 76 92

13 75 92 ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ Variable.

14 74 92

15 73 91

16 73 92

17 75 93

18 75 95

19 76 95

20 76 95

21 77 94

22 77 94

23 76 94

24 74 93

25 74 93

26 72 93

27 73 95½

28 72 94

29 73 94

30 75 95½

MAY.

Day of the Month. Height of Therm. 7 A.M. Height of Therm. 3 P.M. Course of the Wind.

1 77 93 N.

2 76 94 N.

3 76 94 N.

4 77 94

5 75 93 N.W.

6 77 96 N.N.W.

7 78 96

8 78 96 S.

9 76 95

10 76 95

11 74 95

12 73 92

13 73 91 N.E.

14 72 91 N.E.

15 70 89 N.E.

16 79 89

17 71 89

18 75 92 S.E.

19 73 92 S.E.

20 75 92½

21 74 95 S.

22 74 95 S.

23 76 95 S.

24 78 100 S.E.

25 79 98 S.

26 78 98 S.

27 79 98 S.S.E.

28 77 96

29 77 95 N.W.

30 78 96

31 78 97

JUNE.

Day of the Month. Height of Therm. 7 A.M. Height of Therm. 3 P.M. Course of the Wind.

1 76 88 N.W.

2 76 92

3 78 93 N.N.W.

4 77 92½

5 80 90

6 78 91 N.

7 78 92 N.W.

8 79 92

9 81 98 ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ S.

10 83 98

11 82 98

12 81 97

13 70 97

14 79 95

15 76 94

16 76 94 ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ Generally South.

17 77 93

18 77 94

19 80 95

20 80 94

21 81 96

22 78 92½

23 76 98

24 80 98

25 79 96

26 81 97

27 82 97

28 80 96

29 79 94½

30 82½ 96

JULY.

Day of the Month. Height of Therm. 7 A.M. Height of Therm. 3 P.M. Course of the Wind.

1 80 N. or N.W. during short intervals, but generally S. or S.E. or calm.

2 96

3

4

5

6 92

7

8 78 91

9 80 96

10 81 98

11 81 101

12 80 97

13 79 97

14 80 96

15 78 93

16 77 93

17 78 92

18 76 92

19 78 94

20 93

21 76 91

22 79 94½

23 80 94

24 80 93

25 81 95

26 77 92

27 78 92

28 78 94½

29 79 96

30 79 94

31 80 99

AUGUST.

Day of the Month. Height of Therm. 7 A.M. Height of Therm. 3 P.M. Course of the Wind.

1 78 95

2 78 94

3 75 92

4 74½ 93

5 73 92

6 77 95

7 78 97

8 79 96

9 77 98 S.

10 81 100 S.S.E.

11 80

12 79

13 76 94

14 78 94

15 79 95

16 78 95

17 76 95

18 79 96

19 80 99 S.

20 77 94

21 76 94

22 75 94

23 77 95

24 77 93 N.W.

25 75 93 N.W.

26 76 94 N.N.W.

27 75 92 N.

28 78 94

29 80 96 S.W.

30 78 95 S.

31 77 95

SEPTEMBER.

Day of the Month. Height of Therm. 7 A.M. Height of Therm. 3 P.M. Course of the Wind.

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8 77 93 ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ Always S.E. or S.

9 80 95

10 81 95

11 79 93

12 78 93

13 80 94

14 77 92

15 75 92

16 74 90

17

18

19

20

21

22

23

24

25

26

27

28

29 74 90 N.E.

30 75 90 N.E.

OCTOBER.

Day of the Month. Height of Therm. 7 A.M. Height of Therm. 3 P.M. Course of the Wind.

1 76 90

2 75 91

3 80 93 N.

4 78 93

5 77 92

6 77 90

7 77 91

8 76 91

9 78 92

10 80 92

11 75 90 N.W.

12 74 87 N.N.W.

13 74 86

14 72 86 N.W.N.

15 72½ 86

16 73 84

17 75 86

18 77 87

19 76 87 N.

20 80 89

21 76 86

22 75 85

23 75 84

24 74 84

25 76 84½

26 75½ 86

27 74 84

28

29 72 81

30 73 81

31 72 81

NOVEMBER.

Day of the Month. Height of Therm. 7 A.M. Height of Therm. 3 P.M. Course of the Wind.

1 70 83

2 72 87 S.

3 71 86

4 72 86

5 73 87

6 69 88

7 69 82 N.E.

8 70 82 N.N.E.

9 69 81

10 68 80

11 68 82

12 69 80

13 70 80

14 68 79

15 69 83

16 72 86

17 72½ 84

18 72 83½

19 70 81

20 71 82 ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ S.

21 73 82

22 72 83

23 72 84

24 73½ 86

25 73 85

26 72 85

27 74 82

28 71 80

29 70 80

30 70 79

DECEMBER.

Day of the Month. Height of Therm. 7 A.M. Height of Therm. 3 P.M. Course of the Wind.

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12 59 71 ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ N.

13 60 73

14 62 79

15 57 76

16 57 77

17 58 79

18 57 78

19 60 79

20 60 80 ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ S.W.

21 62 80

22 62½ 81

23 61 81

24 57 80

25 58 80

26 56 74

27 60 76

28 56 76

29 57 76

30 58 77

31 57 76

No. IV.

Some Observations on the account of Egypt given in the works of Savary and Volney.

Vol. i. p. 27. Savary says, Alexandria is only a village, containing scarcely six thousand inhabitants. The fall of Alexandria from its antient splendour has already been remarked; and how vague all computations of number must necessarily be, by persons who reside there only for a few weeks or months. But Alexandria alone furnished to the Imperial army and navy, in the war with the Russians, four thousand men able to bear arms. This, with other circumstances, might serve to prove that the population must greatly exceed the number mentioned.

He computes the people of Damiatt at eighty thousand, which appears no less extravagant on the other side, and is certainly at least double the real number.

Vol. i. p. 220. Savary’s description of the topography of Memphis is characterized by an apparent error. He speaks of the small bourg Menf, antiently Memphis, a little to the South of the Pyramids. It is somewhat singular, that no one writer before him should have found a spot so remarkably coinciding in name with the antient capital. The writer of this inquired repeatedly for such a village, but always without effect; and Olivier and Brugniere, in the employ of the French Republic, who passed several months in Egypt, nearly at the same epoch, were equally unsuccessful in their researches. So that it would seem fair to pronounce that no such place exists. The only town in Egypt which bears even a distant resemblance to the name of Memphis, is Menúf, which is many leagues to the North, and within the Delta.

P. 275. The story of Murad Bey discovering his father, it is somewhat surprising should have escaped all the merchants residing in Egypt, some of them almost half a century, and always eager for anecdotes of this kind. The inventive talent of the Greek servants is indeed often put in activity to amuse strangers with such tales, but Savary, who was so experienced in Egypt, should have had more discrimination than to blend des contes de ma mere l’oye with historic narration. The facts are wholly discordant.—The man is a labourer of the environs of Damascus, Murad Bey a native of Georgia.—To go from Damascus to Kahira he embarks at Alexandretta, seventeen days journey N.W. of Damascus, when he might have gone to Beirût, Seidé, Akka, or Yaffa, each of them four days. This labourer travels with the eccentricity of a comet; and even the French philosopher is lost in calculating his course. But Savary was writing on Egypt, and is not obliged to know the geography of Syria.

P. 288. J’ai tué plusieurs Ibis dans les marais près de Rossette. Ils ont les pattes longues, le corps mince, alternativement blanc et noir, et le col allongé. Ils vivent de poissons, de grenouilles et de reptiles.

Had Savary given the Arabic name of this curious bird, that sups on so many different dishes, the extent of his own error might have been exactly known, by comparing the bird he means with the figure of the real Ibis. Others are contented with seeing one Ibis, but they have come in covies to welcome M. Savary, and he compliments them with a volley of small shot. S. should have known, that birds accustomed to feed on fish, do not commonly eat reptiles, and vice versâ.

Vol. ii. p. 59. The Ruin at Achmunein had before been fully described by Pococke; Norden passed it in the night, and therefore saw it not. Bruce has also mentioned it. What is described as gilding, however, on this and other monuments, I take to be yellow colour, never having seen any instances of gilding in the antient remains of Egypt. It might be curious to inquire of what materials these colours were composed, which have thus defied the ravages of time.

Vol. iii. p. 33. Savary speaks of the military corps of Assabs as still in being, but some years before his time that body had been dissolved, and no longer existed.

The Janizaries are still inrolled, to the number of about fourteen thousand; but the greater part of them are peaceable citizens, who never handle either sword or musket. From them are appointed the gate-keepers, a small garrison in the castle, &c. &c.

A body of Janizaries was called out and maintained by Ali Bey, but since the time of Mohammed Bey Abu-dhahab I have not understood that they have been on active service. The Yenk-tcheri aga, or commander in chief of the Janizaries, ranks as a Bey, as do the Kiahia and Ichawûsh. These three are elected in the Divân of the Beys. The inferior officers are appointed by the Shech-el-belad, as are the officers of the city police.

[Decoration]
[Decoration]

Volney seems generally to hint that women are despised in Egypt, and says, they can possess no inheritance in lands.

They are exactly in the same predicament with the other sex as to inheritance of land, and receive possession by paying a fine to the government, from which none are exempted. In fact, their situation is in many respects better than that of men. Public opinion is in their favour, and their property is generally more respected, and they are treated more equitably than males. Their complaints, in case of injustice, sometimes carried even to intemperance, are heard with more patience.

A large portion of landed property having devolved to a widow at Monfalût in Said, Solyman Bey, Senjiak of Said, desired to purchase it at the price the widow might demand. She refused, and he afterwards married her to gain possession, though she was both old and diseased.

English edit. Vol. I. p. 216. Volney says, that when there are no ships at Suez, that town has no other inhabitants than the Mamlûk governor, and a garrison, consisting of twelve or fourteen persons.—In Suez are twelve or thirteen mosques, which could never have been designed for a garrison of so few persons. There are also several coffee-houses. In truth the inhabitants are not numerous, but there are four or five considerable merchants constantly residing there, who have their correspondents at Kahira, and in the towns of Arabia, and conduct the commerce between Egypt and India. There is consequently a proportionate number of their dependents, and persons who manage commercial affairs of a less considerable kind. There are ship-builders, and several other artificers; a large khan or okal where merchandize is lodged; some Greek Christians constantly residing there; Mohammedan ecclesiastics, and others; and a number of fishermen and people more immediately connected with the sea. The population is restrained by the difficulty of procuring water, scarcity of provisions, and other inconveniences; but invariably much exceeding the estimate here given.

P. 263. Volney remarks, that the horizon is every where flat, even in the Upper Egypt, and refers for a proof of his assertion to Norden’s Plates, which demonstrate precisely the reverse. The fact is true indeed as to Lower Egypt, but from Kahira upward to Assûan there is only a very small space where the view is not terminated by the mountains, of various aspects, on each side.

No. V.

Some remarks on the account of Egypt, contained in the recent correspondence of the French officers who accompanied Buonaparte to that country. The work referred to is intitled, Paris, pendant l’annee 1798. Par Peltier. Vols. xix. and xx.

Vol. 19, page 455. The distance from Cairo to the cataract is about 360 Geog. miles. The Nile is never an impetuous torrent, nor does it ever overflow its banks in the whole course from Assûan to Kahira, but is admitted at proper times into the transverse channels prepared for it.

P. 457. The Arabs, it is evident, would not build walls of much greater extent than the habitations they proposed to defend. A very small part of these being now filled, shews that the decay the city has undergone since the Turks became possessed of it, has even been greater than what it sustained from the time of Severus to the Saracenic conquests.

P. 459. Old Kahira is not Fostat, but Misr el attîké, further South.

Lettre de Boyer.

P. 475. I doubt whether any one of the towers about Alexandria would contain 700 men.

P. 475. The writer says every Mamlûk is bought; and yet there are Frenchmen among them.—Where are Frenchmen sold? It is probable no Frenchman would be found among them, unless perhaps two or three individuals who might have embraced Mohammedism, but who certainly never were sold. In an engagement, I believe, no one has more than a single piéton with him; for those inconsiderable officers, who are attended on ordinary occasions by numerous followers, when in the field, avoid as much as possible any shew of preeminence, which would only expose their persons to greater danger.

P. 476. A Mamlûk has rarely more than one fusil, which he discharges once, and then gives to his piéton, to reload if he find opportunity.—One pair of pistols is attached to the body, and the second pair is carried in holsters, never about the body.—Of the arrows in a quiver I have no knowlege; occasionally in engaging the Bedouins the Mamlûks use a light spear, about six feet long, or a misdrâk, which is often ten or twelve feet.—The former is thrown, the latter never discharged from the hand. But these are by no means part of their common arms.—One sabre is used most adroitly and with extraordinary effect, by every expert horseman, but never two.—This part of the officer’s account seems taken from the mouth of some Egyptian peasant, who, as usual, exaggerated.

P. 476. From Alexandria to the mouth of the Nile is not twenty leagues, but from twelve to fifteen.—The anecdote of the shech in the same page appears authentic.

P. 479. The Mohammedans in general, and the Egyptians in particular, of whatever order, are very far from being regardless of the children.—On the contrary, they are extremely anxious for their welfare. Perhaps their domestic government may in some degree afford an example of the happy medium between weak indulgence and unnecessary severity; and parents daily experience the benefit of this their moderation. Very few instances of ingratitude are seen in their children. Women offering to sell their children, it remained for Boyer to discover. If reduced to desperation they might have desired rather to see their offspring in slavery than pierced with bayonets; but not the most wretched of Egyptian mothers would ever have consented at any price to sell her child, even to Murad Bey. I rather imagine the writer mistaken as to this fact.

A moitié nuds. Would not men go half naked in Great Britain if the climate permitted it?—La peau dégoûtante. In the populace of no nation are fewer cutaneous diseases found, or the skin more smooth and healthy, than in the Egyptians. Fouillant dans des ruisseaux, &c. Are hedgers and ditchers in any country very polished and delicate?—None are found raking the muddy channels but those whose business it is to keep them clean. The houses of the Alexandrines are neat, and comfortable according to their ideas, though perhaps they would appear gloomy to a French or English man.

P. 480. This is not quite correct. On the West of the W. branch of the Nile, the arable lands are very narrow, but to the East they extend along the road to Bilbeis and Salehich. The villages indeed are ill built; yet a house is here of little use but as a shelter from the sun. One of our neat, snug, brick houses, covered with red tiles, would be absolutely intolerable in Egypt. They are poor because the government is oppressive, not because they are uninclined to labour. The muddy appearance of the Nile water is no motive for any Egyptian to abstain from drinking it; nor is any other circumstance attending it, except its being polluted. Water, according to their law, is not polluted by a camel, a horse, or an ox drinking of it; but it is by a dog’s drinking, or a man washing his hands in it.

481. Boyer seems to have been too hasty in numbering the inhabitants—400,000 seems to me about one-fourth too much.

Ibid. The streets of Kahira are narrow, but inconveniences would attend their being wider. The houses are by no means without order: two long streets, as is seen in Niebuhr’s plan, bisect the city longitudinally and parallel with the river. The streets are often rectilinear, though they are by no means rectangular.

The ecclesiastics all read, and many of them write. All merchants of any consequence read, and many write. Often their female offspring are taught to read. The Copts most of them read and write. Who then regards the arts of reading and writing with admiration? The soldiers, the peasants, and the laborious part of the populace are ignorant enough of reading and writing, but by no means wonder or are astonished at what they see daily practised.

Berthier’s Letter, 2 Fructidor.

P. 536. All Egypt, according to this writer, is in submission to the French troops; but it appears the farthest post the latter have occupied is at four leagues from Cairo, where there is an entrenched camp; then there remain 130 leagues yet to subdue.

P. 599. It seems to me impossible that the old port could contain half the number of vessels here mentioned, viz. 300.

—. This place, whose name is so murdered, is spelled Jibbrîsh.

P. 603. In Julien’s letter, I know not how the flag could be placed on the walls of the celebrated city Thebes, when all that remains of that city is the ruins of public buildings, that formed a part of its interior.—Often join, &c. There is one annual feast dedicated to the Prophet, called Mewlet-en-Nebbi, which lasts one day; and one feast also annual in honour of cutting the Chalige, which also lasts one day. How did the soldiers then often celebrate them?

604. The canal of Alexandria wanted nothing more than to be cleared of the sand which had accumulated in it, and to be defended by a dike against the incroachments of the sea, which the citizens of Alexandria refused to do for themselves, lest the repair of all other public works should be expected from them, and the Beys would not do it for them.

Dolomieu’s Letter.

Vol. 20. p. 50. He says the Alexandria of the Greeks was situated on a tongue of land, formed by earth lately accumulated, when the city was founded.—He means, I suppose, that the sea had left it but lately. This is possible. The natural soil round the city is rock intermixed with sand. The vegetable mold appears to have been extraneous. If he suppose that district, like the Delta, to have been a deposition of the river, this seems utterly improbable; all the circumstances are at variance, which in such a case should be common to both. The land which divided the lake from the sea is a rocky ridge, which seems to have undergone no variation for a great length of time. The remark as to the column of Pompey is not new; but I cannot agree that the capital and base are of bad taste. The sharp relief of the foliage and mouldings is worn off by time, and it never was perhaps possible to exhibit on granite marble the finer strokes of the chissel, but the proportions, though not those of the later Corinthian, are strictly conformable to those of the purest age of architecture. What may have been discovered relatively to the obelisk by digging is uncertain; but from a comparison of this with the circumstances attending the obelisks at Thebes, it cannot be deduced that much is lost of its height. It must have been erected in the most flourishing state of the city, and while it remained in that state, it seems scarcely probable that such multitudes of ruins should have existed as to raise other buildings on them. I am satisfied, from the position of the one that remains entire, and the broken one near it, they never underwent a second arrangement, but remain in their relative position, as at the gate of some public building. The obelisk is in a very low part of the city, (which indeed is all very low,) and very little above the level of the sea—how does this accord with the ruins of other buildings being yet found under it? Perhaps in this part a firm foundation was not found very near the surface, and the builders have formed an artificial one. The French antiquary may have mistaken this for the ruins of buildings.

P. 59. My measurement of the height of the pyramid was a few feet short of this, but does not very materially differ from the one here given.

P. 95. El Maraboot is a kind of fort, and the tomb of a saint, situated on a high ground in the neighbourhood of the Gulf of the Arabs, a good view of which it commands.

No. VI.

Explanation of the Plate facing page 286.

1. The principal inclosure, consisting of apartments exclusively appropriated to the use of the monarch.

2. Principal rukkûba, or place of public audience.

3. The large court where public audiences are given.

4. Two gates, the one of the interior, the other of the great court; at both stand slaves, to refuse admittance when the Monarch is not in the humour to do justice; and the chief of them, to strike the greater awe, is the public executioner.

5. Exterior court in which the public officers leave their horses, and thence walk barefoot to the presence of their master.

6. External entrance, fronting the market-place.

7. A court with some apartments in it for faquirs, guards, and slaves.

8. A wide court where are some horses tied.

9. Rukkûba at the other entrance, where the Sultan gives audience, principally in winter, and where he would be less public.

10. Small court surrounding that rukkûba or shed.

11. Outer court where a mob assembles, and horses and slaves are in waiting.

12. Outer gate, called Bab-el-burrâni, as the great one is called Bab-el-Gebeia.

13. A multitude of small apartments reaching almost the whole length of the palace, where slaves are kept in confinement, as a punishment for misdemeanors; they are chained and fettered, and kept to hard labour, as dressing and tanning leather, making spear heads, &c.

14. A large court of irregular form filled with a multitude of small apartments for the women; they pass through the two gates marked w to fetch water, but have no other outlet. Each of the principal women has a large apartment, surrounded by a number of smaller ones for her slaves; there are also apartments for cooking.

15. Granary, which is builded on a frame of timber, to prevent the accession of the Termis or white ant.

16. Gate by which the women enter the Sultan’s apartment where that sex performs all offices.

17. Stable or court where the best horses are kept tied, and sheltered from the sun.

The Eunuchs live in the interior, to be always near the Sultan; male slaves, wherever they can find a place.

18. Are the slaves’ apartments who guard the entrance.

19. A place where the faquirs read.

The officers immediately attached to the court live in small inclosures on the outside of the fence, as that marked 20.

The houses of the Meleks resemble this in miniature; those of inferior persons only of smaller size without divisions, and having fewer apartments.

The exterior is an hedge of dry thorns, about ten feet thick, and as many high.

THE END.

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