RECEIPTS. (continued 3)

No. 182. Pigs’ Feet. Procure six pigs’ feet, nicely salted, which boil in water, to which you have added a few vegetables, until well done, cut each one in halves, take out the long bone, have some sausage meat as in the last, and a pig’s caul, which cut into pieces each large enough to fold half a foot, well surrounded with sausage-meat, when well wrapped up broil slowly half an hour over a moderate fire, and serve. Or, when the pigs’ feet are well boiled, egg over, and throw them into some grated crust of bread, with which you have mixed a little parsley; broil a nice colour and serve with a little plain gravy.

MADE DISHES FROM POULTRY.

No. 183. Blanquettes of Turkey. With the remains of a roasted or boiled turkey you may make a very nice blanquette, cutting the meat into small thin slices, chop up the bones, and put them into a stewpan with an onion, half a blade of mace, and a very little lean ham or bacon, just cover with water, boil twenty minutes, and with the stock make a white sauce as directed (No. 7, Kitchen of the Wealthy), put the slices into a stewpan, just cover with a little of the sauce, add a little white pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, make all hot together, not, however, allowing it to boil, finish with three tablespoonfuls of cream, mixed with the yolk of an egg, stir in quickly, pour out upon a dish, and serve with triangular scippets of fried or toasted bread round. When cucumbers are in season I frequently use one, cutting it in pieces two inches in length, which again split into three, peel, and take out all the seeds, put them into a stewpan, with a few chopped onions, a little butter and sugar, and stew gently over a slow fire until tender; five minutes before serving add them to the blanquette, they being a great improvement.

No. 184. Boudins of Turkey. Cut up all the flesh remaining upon a turkey into small dice, if about a pound and a half, put a teaspoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan, with a piece of butter of the size of two walnuts, pass a few seconds over the fire, then add half a tablespoonful of flour (mix well) and the mince, which moisten with a pint of stock made from the bones as in the last, simmer some time, keeping it moved, season with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, finish with the yolks of three eggs, which stir in quickly over the fire, not allowing it to boil afterwards, pour out upon a dish until cold; just before ready to serve, divide it into equal parts, roll out each to about the size of small eggs, shaping them to fancy, egg and bread-crumb twice over, fry in very hot lard or dripping of a light brown colour, and serve. A little ham or tongue (should you have any left) cut small, and mixed with the mince would be a great improvement.

No. 185. Turban of Croquettes. Croquettes are made precisely as the last, but not more than half the size; when done, dress them in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, and have ready some of the blanquette of turkey, which serve in the centre.

No. 186. Minced and Grilled Turkey. Detach the leg, wing, or take off the best part of the turkey remaining, which season well with pepper and salt, and broil over a good fire, have ready prepared a mince from the remaining flesh of the turkey, made as directed for the boudins, but omitting the yolks of eggs; when quite hot and well seasoned pour into your dish, and dress the broiled piece upon it.

No. 187. Devilled Turkey. Cut up the remains of your turkey into good-sized pieces or joints, if sufficient, cut incisions crosswise upon each piece, and well rub them with cayenne pepper, broil quickly over a sharp fire, dress them in your dish, and have ready the following sauce: put a tablespoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan with a wineglassful of Chili vinegar, reduce to half, add half a pint of thin melted butter, two tablespoonfuls of catsup, and two of Worcestershire sauce, boil about a quarter of an hour, stir in two ounces of fresh butter, pour over and serve. Many persons like the above best dry, so it would be as well to serve the sauce separate in a boat, or a little plain gravy only underneath. The remains of poulardes, capons, or fowls may be dressed precisely as directed for the turkey.

No. 188. Goose Hashed. The remains of a goose is only fit for hashing, or devilling, for which proceed as last directed; when for hashing put a spoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter, pass over the fire until becoming rather brown, when add a tablespoonful of flour, mix well, cut up the remains of a goose into moderate-sized pieces, season with pepper and salt, add about a pint of stock or water, let simmer ten minutes, when pour out upon a dish and serve. For a variation, a little sage and a couple of apples sliced and cooked in the sauce is very good.

No. 189. Stewed Duck and Peas. Procure a duck trussed with the legs turned inside, which put into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter and a quarter of a pound of streaked bacon, let remain over a fire, stirring occasionally until lightly browned, when add a good tablespoonful of flour (mix well) and a pint of broth or water, stir round gently until boiling, when skim, and add twenty button onions, a bunch of parsley, with a bay-leaf, and two cloves, let simmer a quarter of an hour, then add a quart of nice young peas, let simmer until done, which will take about half an hour longer, take out the duck, place it upon your dish (taking away the string it was trussed with), take out the parsley and bay-leaf, season the peas with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, reduce a little if not sufficiently thick, pour over the duck and serve.

No. 190. Duckling with Turnips is a very favorite dish amongst the middle classes in France. Proceed as in the last, but instead of peas use about forty pieces of good turnips cut into moderate-sized square pieces, having previously fried them of a light yellow colour in a little butter or lard, and drained them upon a sieve; dress the duck upon a dish as before, season the sauce with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, reduce until rather thick, a thin sauce not suiting a dish of this description; the turnips must not, however, be in purée; sauce over and serve.

The remains of ducks left from a previous dinner may be hashed as directed for goose, and for variety, should peas be in season, a pint previously boiled may be added to the hash just before serving. The sage and apple must in all cases be omitted.

No. 191. Fricassee of Fowl or Chicken. Cut a fowl or chicken into eight pieces, that is, the two wings and legs dividing the back and breast into two pieces each, wash well, put them into a stewpan and cover with water, season with a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, a good bunch of parsley, four cloves, and a blade of mace, let boil twenty minutes, pass the stock through a sieve into a basin, take out the pieces of fowl, trim well, then in another stewpan put two ounces of butter, with which mix a good spoonful of flour, moisten with the stock, and put in the pieces of fowl, stir occasionally, until boiling, skim well, add twenty button onions, let simmer until the onions are tender, when add a gill of cream, with which you have mixed the yolks of two eggs, stir in quickly over the fire, but do not let boil, take out the pieces, dress in pyramid upon your dish, sauce over and serve.

No. 192. Fricassee of Fowl with Mushrooms. Proceed as in the last, but add twenty mushrooms (peeled, if very black), not too large, about ten minutes before adding the cream and yolks of eggs.

No. 193. Currie of Fowl, Oriental Fashion. Peel and cut two large onions into thin slices, which put into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, fry them over a slow fire until lightly browned and quite pulpy, then add a good tablespoonful of currie-powder, and one of currie-paste, mix well, add half a pint of broth or water, let boil, keeping it stirred, then have a fowl cut into eight pieces, which put in the stewpan, cover well with the currie, add half a pint of cream, let simmer gently three quarters of an hour over a slow fire, stirring occasionally, take out the pieces, dress pyramidically upon a dish, pour the sauce over, and serve with rice plain boiled as directed (page 51) on a separate dish.

No. 194. Broiled Fowl. Procure a fowl trussed as for boiling, cut out the back-bone and press quite flat, season well with pepper, salt, and chopped eschalots, place in a sauté-pan, fry upon both sides, take out, egg over with a paste-brush, dip into bread-crumbs, place upon the gridiron, over a moderate fire, and broil a very light brown colour, glaze over, if any, and serve with a little plain gravy, or mushroom sauce, made by putting half a pint of melted butter into a stewpan, with about twenty button mushrooms, well washed, let simmer ten minutes, add two tablespoonfuls of catsup, and two of Harvey sauce, finish with a pat of butter, pour the sauce in the dish, dress the fowl over and serve. I very frequently also serve it at home with a sauce à la tartare made as directed page 19.

No. 195. Fowl Sautéd in Oil. Cut a fowl in pieces as described for the fricassee, and put them into a stewpan, with four spoonfuls of oil, place over the fire and when of a light brown colour add a good tablespoonful of flour (mix well), and moisten with a pint of broth or water, let simmer a quarter of an hour, keeping well skimmed, add a raw truffle cut in slices, or a few mushrooms, season with a little pepper, salt, sugar, and a little scraped garlic the size of a pea, take out the pieces of fowl, which dress pyramidically upon your dish, reduce the sauce over the fire, keeping it stirred until adhering to the back of the spoon, when pour over and serve.

No. 196. Fricassee of Rabbits. Cut two nice young rabbits into very neat joints, or the legs only may be used, and put them into lukewarm water to disgorge for half an hour, take out and put them into a stewpan with a large onion cut into slices, two cloves, a blade of mace, a little parsley, one bay-leaf, and a quarter of a pound of streaked bacon cut in dice; just cover with water, let simmer a quarter of an hour, keeping it well skimmed, pass the stock through a sieve, and proceed precisely as for the fricassee of fowl, page 689.

No. 197. Gibelotte of Rabbits. Cut two young rabbits into joints as in the last, cut also half a pound of streaked bacon into dice, fry the bacon in butter in a stewpan, then put in the pieces of rabbits; when slightly browned add a good spoonful of flour, mix well, and moisten with rather more than a pint of water, season with a little salt and pepper, when beginning to boil skim well, add fifty button onions, and a few button mushrooms, if any, let simmer a quarter of an hour, take out the pieces of rabbit, which dress in pyramid upon a dish; let the sauce boil, keeping it stirred, until the onions are quite tender, and the sauce thick enough to adhere to the back of the spoon, when add a little colouring, pour over the rabbit and serve.

No. 198. Currie of Rabbit. Cut four middling-sized onions and two apples in slices, and put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, place over a moderate fire, stirring occasionally, until the onions are slightly browned and quite pulpy, when add two tablespoonfuls of currie-powder and one of currie-paste; mix well, and moisten with half a pint of stock or water, let boil; have ready a couple of young rabbits cut into joints, and fried in butter in a sauté or frying-pan of a nice brown colour, put into the currie sauce, season with a little salt and juice of lemon, let stew very gently over a very slow fire, stirring occasionally, until the rabbit is quite tender, when dress upon your dish, and serve with rice, plain boiled, separate.

The legs only of the rabbits may be dressed in either of the foregoing ways, should the fillets be required for other purposes.

No. 199. Rabbit Pies. Cut two or three rabbits up in joints, and a pound of streaked bacon in slices; butter a pie-dish, lay some of the slices of bacon upon the bottom, dip the pieces of rabbits into flour, place a layer of them over the bacon, season well with pepper and salt, then add another layer of bacon, then rabbit, again seasoning, proceeding thus, building them in a dome above the edge of the dish; have ready a pound of half puff paste made as directed (page 480), with which cover them, ornamenting the top with leaves; egg over lightly, and bake about an hour and a half in a moderate oven, put half a pint of good gravy in with a funnel, and serve.

Rabbits plain boiled and served with onion sauce are also very excellent; make the sauce thus: peel and cut six large onions into very small dice, put into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, pass five minutes over the fire, keeping it stirred, add two ounces of flour, mix well, moisten with a pint and a half of milk, season with a little white pepper, salt, and sugar, keep stirring over the fire until the onions are quite tender, and it becomes rather a thickish sauce, when serve over the rabbit.

The remains of rabbits may be warmed and served with the above sauce, made into blanquettes, or minced as directed for turkeys or fowls.

No. 200. Pigeon Pie. Procure four pigeons, but not trussed, and cut off the feet; have a nice tender rump-steak, well seasoned, which dip in flour and lay at the bottom of a buttered pie-dish; place the pigeon over, elevating their tails to meet in the centre, season well with pepper and salt, place a piece of fat bacon over the breast of each bird, sprinkle a few chopped eschalots over, have six eggs boiled, the yolks of which place in the dish, pour in half a pint of water, and cover the pie with a pound of half puff paste made as directed (page 480), ornamenting the top with leaves of paste, sticking the pigeons’ feet in the centre, and brushing eggs lightly over the top; bake about an hour and a half in a moderate oven. Lamb or veal may be used instead of the beef at the bottom, if preferred, and the whole of the eggs, each cut in four lengthwise, instead of the yolks only.

No. 201. Pigeons in Compote. Put half a pound of lean bacon, cut into large dice, in a stewpan, with half an ounce of butter, pass a few minutes over the fire, then have three pigeons trussed with their legs turned inside, place them in the stewpan with the bacon, breasts downwards, let remain until becoming of a light brown colour, moving them round occasionally; add a tablespoonful of flour, move round until becoming a little browned, moisten with a pint, or a little more, water, mix well, add a good bunch of parsley, with a bay-leaf, thirty button onions, a little pepper and salt, let simmer three quarters of an hour, skimming well, dress the pigeons upon a dish, with the bacon and onions round, reduce the sauce to a proper consistency, take out the parsley and bay-leaf, pour over and serve.

No. 202. Stewed Pigeons with Peas. Proceed precisely as in the last, but adding nearly a quart of very fresh peas with the onions and parsley, omitting the bay-leaf; dress the pigeons upon a dish, pour the peas and sauce over when ready to serve.

GAME.—No. 203. Pheasants, Partridges, Grouse, Black Game, Woodcocks, etc., by the greater part of the population are preferred plain roasted, which is, in my opinion, the best; but by way of change, and for the method of dressing the remains of any description of birds, I have given the few following simple receipts:

No. 204. Small Pheasants, the Miller’s Fashion. Roast a pheasant as directed (page 403), previously dipping it in flour, and occasionally shaking flour over whilst roasting, thus it will be very crisp and keep nearly white; put the crumb of two French rolls in a stewpan, with half a pint of milk, a small eschalot, a bay-leaf, an ounce of butter, and a little pepper and salt; let boil, take out the eschalot and bay-leaf, place a piece of buttered toast upon your dish, pour the sauce over, dress the pheasant upon the top, and serve; a little gravy may also be served separate in a boat.

No. 205. Pheasant with Cabbage. Procure a nice white-heart winter cabbage, which cut in quarters, and blanch five minutes in boiling water, drain quite dry, cut off part of the stalk, season well with salt, place it in a stewpan, with half a pound of streaked bacon and a pint of broth, and stew gently for about half an hour; then have a pheasant about three parts roasted, thrust it into the cabbage whilst hot, and let the whole stew gently together half an hour longer; take out the pheasant and cabbage, squeezing it to the sides of the stewpan to extract the stock, dress the cabbage in pyramid upon your dish, with the pheasant upon the top, dress the bacon, cut in slices, around, skim the stock well, let reduce to half, pour round and serve.

No. 206. Hashed Pheasant. From the remains of a pheasant previously served, make a hash in the following manner: cut it up into smallish pieces and put them into a stewpan, with a little flour, half a glass of port wine, a little pepper and salt, and a bay-leaf, and sufficient broth (or water with a piece of glaze in it) to moisten it; let simmer very gently five minutes, take out the pieces, dress them upon your dish, pass the sauce through a hair sieve over, and serve.

No. 207. A Plain Salmi of Pheasants. Cut off and trim well the best pieces remaining of pheasants, previously served, and put them into a stewpan; then in another stewpan put the bones and trimmings (broken up small), with an onion in slices, a little parsley, a bay-leaf, four peppercorns, and a glass of sherry, boil a few minutes; then stir in a tablespoonful of flour, and moisten by degrees with a pint of broth (or water with a piece of glaze), boil about ten minutes, keeping it stirred; when thick enough to adhere to the back of the spoon, pass through a tammie or fine sieve, into the other stewpan over the pieces of pheasants, warm altogether gently, not allowing it to boil, colour a little brown with half a spoonful of colouring (page 673), take out the pieces, dress in pyramid sauce over, and serve with scippets of fried or toasted bread, cut in the shape of hearts, round.

The remains of pheasants may be minced and served with eggs boiled five minutes, and the shells taken off, or made into boudins or croquettes as directed for turkey (page 687), as may any other description of game.

No. 208. Grouse, Scotch Fashion. Plain roast the grouse, dress them upon toast on your dish, and serve with plain melted butter poured over them; they may also be dressed in any of the ways directed for pheasants, with the exception of being stewed with the cabbage; black game is dressed precisely the same as the grouse.

No. 209. Partridges à la Jardinière. Have a plain round tin cutter, with which cut about forty pieces of carrot and turnip, each about the thickness of a quill, and half an inch in length; put them into a stewpan with twenty button onions, two ounces of butter, and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar; pass over a sharp fire until the vegetables become covered with a thinnish glaze, when add a tablespoonful of flour (mix well) and a pint of stock or gravy; let simmer until the vegetables are tender, keeping it well skimmed. Roast two partridges rather underdone, which put into the sauce twenty minutes before serving; let simmer very gently, skim off all the fat, dress the birds upon a dish, pour the sauce and vegetables over, and serve.

No. 210. Partridges with Cabbage. Proceed exactly as described for the pheasant, but using two birds instead of one: if convenient, it would be a great improvement to lard the breasts of the birds with fat bacon.

No. 211. Partridges sautéd with Mushrooms. Divide two partridges each into halves, beat them a little flattish, put two or three tablespoonfuls of salad-oil into a flat stewpan, lay in the partridges, the inner side downwards, first seasoning with a little pepper, salt, and chopped eschalots; place over a moderate fire, put a cover upon the stewpan, and let remain until of a light brown colour; remove the lid, turn the partridges over, and let remain until coloured the other side; then pour off a little of the oil, add a tablespoonful of flour, turn round until well mixed, add a good glassful of sherry, half a pint of stock or water, and twenty small button mushrooms; let simmer until the partridges are tender, and the sauce thick enough to adhere to them; having kept it well skimmed, season with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, if required; lay the partridges upon a dish, sauce over, and serve.

The remains of partridges may be hashed or served in a plain salmi, precisely as directed for pheasants.

No. 212. Woodcocks, Downshire Fashion. Plain roast the woodcocks as directed (page 407), catching their tails upon toast, upon which, when done, dress the birds upon a dish; pour a thick melted butter (with which you have mixed the yolk of an egg and a little cream) over, sprinkle lightly with bread-crumbs, salamander a light brown colour, and serve with a little gravy round.

No. 213. Woodcocks à la Chasseur. Roast two woodcocks rather underdone, catching the interior upon a large piece of toast; when done, cut each one in four, and place in a stewpan with the remainder of the interior, chopped small; add a little pepper and salt, a glass of sherry, a little chopped eschalots, parsley, the juice of half a lemon, and half a gill of broth; let simmer a few minutes, dish rather high upon the toast, sauce over, and serve.

No. 214. Hashed Woodcocks. Should you have any remaining from a previous dinner, cut each one in four or more pieces; chop all that remains in the interior, which mix with a small piece of butter, a spoonful of bread-crumbs, and a little chopped parsley, make six croutons in the shape of hearts from a piece of toasted bread, spread the above preparation upon each, and place a short time in the oven; hash the pieces as directed for the pheasant, dress in pyramid on a dish, with the croutons round, sauce over, and serve.

No. 215. Snipes à la Minute. Put a quarter of a pound of butter in a stewpan, over which lay six snipes, breasts downwards; add a spoonful of chopped onions, one ditto of parsley, a little grated nutmeg, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of pepper; set over a brisk fire seven or ten minutes (according to the size of the birds), stirring occasionally, then add the juice of two lemons, two glasses of sherry or bucellas wine, and a spoonful of finely-grated crust of bread; let the whole simmer a few minutes, dress the birds upon a dish, mix the sauce well, pour over, and serve.

No. 216. Plovers, with English raw Truffles. Put a quarter of a pound of butter in a stewpan, over which place four plovers, breasts downwards, and eight raw truffles, well washed, peeled, and cut into thickish slices; add also two cloves, a bay-leaf, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of pepper; pass the whole ten minutes over a sharp fire, stirring occasionally; add half a tablespoonful of flour, mix well, moisten with a gill of broth and a glass of white wine, let simmer ten minutes longer, skim well, dress the birds upon a dish, reduce the sauce, add a little sugar and the juice of a lemon, sauce over, and serve.

No. 217. Wild Duck. Truss as directed (p. 688, No. 189), rub all over with the liver, making it quite red, and roast twenty minutes before a good fire, then with a sharp knife cut eight incisions down the breast; you have put an ounce of butter into a stewpan with a quarter of a saltspoonful of cayenne, the rind of an orange, free from pith, cut in strips, blanched in boiling water, and well drained upon a sieve, and the juice of a lemon; warm over the fire, and when melted, but not oily, pour over the duck, and serve.

No. 218. Hashed Wild Duck. Cut up the remains of a duck or ducks into neat pieces, and put into a stewpan with half or a tablespoonful of flour, depending upon the quantity; mix well, moisten with a glass or two of wine, and sufficient broth or water to make a thickish sauce, season well, add a little Harvey sauce, mushroom catsup, a little sugar, and cayenne pepper; let simmer but not boil, take out the pieces, which dress upon toast, reduce the sauce, pour over, and serve. A little colouring may be added if approved of.

No. 219. Widgeons. Truss as for wild ducks, rub over with some of their livers, chop up the remainder, which mix with a few bread-crumbs, a little chopped lemon-peel, chopped parsley, and an egg, with which stuff the interior; roast nearly as long as for the wild duck before a very sharp fire, dress upon toast on a dish, and have ready the following sauce: put half a glass of port wine into a stewpan, with a teaspoonful of chopped eschalot, a little salt, pepper, and cayenne; boil a few minutes, add the juice of a lemon, and two ounces of fresh butter, sauce over, and serve. Widgeons are hashed in the same manner as described for wild duck.

No. 220. Teal, a new Method. Procure four, draw them, then put half a pound of butter upon a plate, with a little pepper, grated nutmeg, parsley, a spoonful of grated crust of bread, the juice of a lemon, and the liver of the teal; mix well together, and with it fill the interior of the teal; cover them with slices of lemon, fold in thin slices of bacon, then in paper, and roast twenty minutes before a sharp fire; take off the paper, brown the bacon, dress them upon a slice of thick toast, letting the butter from the teal run over it, and serve very hot.

No. 221. Teal à la sans Façon. Roast four teal quite plain, prepare a quarter of a pound of butter, as above, with the omission of the livers, which place in a stewpan over the fire, stirring quickly, until forming a kind of sauce; add some fillets from the pulp of a lemon, sauce over, and serve. The remains of teal also make an excellent hash.

No. 222. Larks à la Minute. Proceed as directed for snipes à la minute, previously stuffing them with their livers, as directed for widgeons, adding a few mushrooms at the commencement, and not letting them stew too quickly, or the bottom would become brown and give a bad flavour to the sauce; ten minutes is quite sufficient to stew them.

No. 223. Lark Pie. Cover the bottom of a pie-dish with thin slices of beef and fat bacon, over which lay ten or twelve larks, previously rolled in flour, season with a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter do. of pepper, one of chopped parsley, and one of chopped eschalot; lay a bay-leaf over, add a gill of broth, and cover with three quarters of a pound of half puff paste (p. 480); bake one hour in a moderate oven, shake well to make the gravy in the pie form a kind of sauce, and serve quite hot.

No. 224. Jugged Hare. Put nearly half a pound of butter into a good-sized stewpan with ten ounces of flour, making rather a thinnish roux by continually turning over a slow fire until becoming of a yellowish tinge, then add a pound of good streaked bacon, previously cut into good-sized square pieces; keep stirring a few minutes longer over the fire; you have previously cut the hare into nice pieces, throw them into the stewpan, and stir over the fire until becoming firm, when moisten with four glasses of port wine, and sufficient water to cover them; when beginning to boil, skim well, season in proportion to the size of your hare, let simmer, add two bay-leaves, four cloves, and, when about half done, forty button onions, or ten large ones, cut into slices; let simmer until the whole is well done, the sauce requiring to be rather thick; dress the pieces as high as possible upon your dish, sauce over, and serve. The remains are excellent either cold or warmed up again in the stewpan. If cheap and in season, a few small new potatoes are excellent stewed with it.

No. 225. Another and more simple Method. Put a quarter of a pound of butter with a pound of bacon, cut into dice, and the hare, cut into pieces, in a stewpan set upon a moderate fire until the pieces of hare are becoming firm, when add six ounces of flour, mix well and moisten with sufficient water to cover it, add two glasses of any kind of wine and one of vinegar, season as above, let simmer until tender, keeping well skimmed: when done, and the sauce becoming quite thick, dress upon your dish, and serve as before.

MEAT PIES AND PUDDINGS.

No. 226. Rump Steak Pie. Procure two pounds of rump-steak, which cut into thinnish slices, season well with pepper and salt, dip each piece into flour, and lay them in a small pie-dish, finishing the top in form of a dome; add a wineglassful of water, and cover with three quarters of a pound of half puff paste (page 480), egg over with a paste-brush, and bake rather better than an hour in a moderate oven; serve either hot or cold.

No. 227. Mutton Pie. Procure the chumps from three loins of mutton, which cut into moderate slices, put a layer of them at the bottom of your dish, season well with pepper, salt, chopped parsley, and eschalot, over which put a layer of thin slices of raw potatoes, then the meat, and seasoning again, proceeding thus, finishing in a dome; add a wineglassful of water, cover with paste, and bake as in the last.

No. 228. Lamb Pie. Cut a small loin of lamb into thin chops, which lightly season, lay them in your dish with a few slices of new potatoes, building them up in the form of a dome; moisten with water, cover with paste, and bake as before.

The proper way to cover these pies is to wet the edge of the dish, round which put a band of common paste, pressing it lightly on, wetting the top, and joining the paste with which the pie is covered to it.

Pies, as I have previously observed, may also be made from the remains of any joints, first hashing the meat from them, which cut into large slices and well season; when quite cold, fill your pie-dish, building it in a dome, two inches above the rim of your dish; place a bay-leaf over, cover with paste, not, however, too thickly, and bake in a hot oven.

Any kind of meat, game, or poultry remaining may be hashed and converted into a pie, as above, without much trouble, thus making a very excellent dish to serve to table. Or the remains of any description of meats may be thus dressed: lay a few slices of streaked uncooked bacon at the bottom of a pie-dish, over which put layers of the meat, seasoning well between, leaving a space between the meat and the dish all round, and not building it above the edge of the dish; then have some potatoes prepared as follows: put about a quarter of a pound of potatoes, well mashed, into a basin, to which add three eggs, a spoonful of chopped parsley, a little grated nutmeg, pepper, salt, and half a pint of milk; mix well, strain through a colander, pour over the meat in the dish, bake half an hour in a warm oven, and serve very hot.

No. 229. Beef Steak Pudding. At home I can frequently make a very excellent dinner from a meat pudding, made as follows:

Put one pound of flour upon a pastry slab, in the centre of which form a well, in which put half a pound of beef or mutton suet, whichever is most convenient, add a teaspoonful of salt, and mix the whole, with water, into a stiffish paste, adding more flour to detach the paste from the slab, and make it dry to the touch; then slightly butter the interior of a round-bottomed basin, of the size you may require, which line with two thirds of the paste, rolled to the thickness of half an inch; you have previously cut two pounds of rump-steak into slices, the thickness of two five-shilling pieces, and an large as the palm of your hand, with a certain quantity of fat attached, or if no fat, add a few pieces separately, dip each piece in flour, and cover the bottom of your basin, over which sprinkle some pepper, salt, chopped parsley, and eschalots (which you have previously mixed upon a plate in the following proportions: two teaspoonfuls of salt, half ditto of black pepper, two of chopped parsley, and one or two of chopped onions or eschalots), then more meat, and seasoning alternately until the pudding is filled, add a wineglassful or two of water, lay a bay-leaf upon the top, wet the edges of the paste, the remainder of which roll to the same thickness, with which form a lid, closing it carefully at the edges; have ready boiling in a stewpan upon the fire a gallon of water, in which stand your pudding, having previously well wrapped it up in a cloth, and let boil continually for three hours, now and then adding a little more water to keep up the quantity; when done, untie the cloth, from which take the basin, pass your knife carefully round between the pudding and the basin, and turn over upon a dish, lifting the basin carefully, and you will have an excellent pudding, not one drop of gravy escaping until you have dug in your spoon, which will cause it to eat much more delicate than by breaking the pudding on purpose to fill the dish with gravy when going to table, particularly if soup and fish are served before, and the pudding is kept half an hour waiting, the top pieces would then eat very dry and indigestible, being deprived of their succulence. At home I never carve such a pudding with a spoon, but lightly cut the crust with a knife, cutting along the top instead of down, and laying a piece of crust upon each plate, taking the meat and gravy from the centre with a spoon, thus leaving the bottom until the last, which, if any remain, is excellent cold.[27]

The above may also be either steamed or baked, in which case it will not require to be tied in a cloth; to steam it, place a quart of water in a middling-sized stewpan, and when boiling place in your pudding, cover the stewpan down close, and draw it to the corner of the fire, replenishing occasionally with more water; the pudding will require the same time cooking, and is served as before.

If baked, the time required in cooking would of course greatly depend upon the heat of your oven, but it would require about two hours baking in a moderate oven, which is the best adapted. The pudding, when baked, may be kept entirely to be eaten cold. Should the onion or bay-leaf be objectionable to some, they may of course be omitted. Observe, that by shaking the pudding gently, previous to turning it out upon your dish, you will mix the gravy with the flour upon the meat, thus forming, when the pudding is cut, a thinnish sauce, without having a greasy appearance.

This very long and minute receipt will probably surprise many, but by thus entering into it, I have given at least ten receipts in one, as I make all other savoury puddings precisely the same; the following sorts most frequently. I sometimes introduce one or two mutton kidneys in a steak pudding, which, although a very old custom, is nevertheless a very good one. Mutton pudding is also very excellent, especially if made from the meat cut from the chumps of the loins, and made similar to the beef-steak puddings, not, however, requiring quite so long a time to boil. Short mutton cutlets, cut without showing the bones, with slices of raw potatoes between, also make very excellent puddings, as also do cutlets of lamb, but in either case requiring an hour less time to cook. I have also frequently made very good puddings from veal, rabbits, poultry, and game, all of which are very acceptable for a change. Venison pudding is also very beautiful. I consider it a pity so few people make any experiments in cookery, which, like other arts, is almost inexhaustible. Some people who have partaken of some of these puddings, previous to their being sent to table, have said they were sure they would not be approved of; but to my great satisfaction they have been totally deceived.

For the veal pudding I cut slices (from any part of the leg) about the same size as the beef for steak puddings, and put them into a sauté-pan, over the bottom of which I have rubbed an ounce of butter, seasoning them with a little pepper and salt, adding a little thyme, and a couple of bay-leaves; about half cook, and leave them in the pan until quite cold, then dip each piece in flour, lay them in the basin with a few slices of streaked bacon, finish the pudding, and boil it two hours. For young rabbits and fowls I proceed the same, and cook the pudding the same time; but to the last two I frequently add a spoonful of currie-powder to make it palatable. For venison, I previously stew it well, except I have left the remainder of a haunch, which I convert into a hash, making the pudding of it when cold; this pudding will require very little more than an hour boiling.

I frequently also make puddings of various kinds of fish, of which one made from the fillets of mackerel is very excellent, the fillets cut into good slices, rather highly seasoned, and laid lightly in the pudding; it will require an hour and a half boiling, and must be eaten very hot to be well appreciated. Eels also make a good pudding, by cutting them into pieces an inch and a half in length slantwise, and blanching them ten minutes in boiling water, to extract the oil, previous to putting them in your pudding, before making which dip each piece of eel in flour.

SECOND COURSE, KITCHEN AT HOME.

For the roasts, second course, in my Kitchen at Home, I must refer my readers to that series in the other department of this work, as it is impossible to explain them more simply; so also for the various methods of dressing vegetables (there so fully explained), from the most expensive to the most simple; and, to avoid repetition, pass over those two series in the second course, and commence a short series of simplified second-course dishes, with a few plain salads.

No. 230. Salad of Cold Meat. This salad in France is very much in vogue, and very frequently made with the remains of meat from the pot-au-feu, but any meat, either roasted, boiled, or stewed, may be used.

Cut your meat in slices (with a little of the fat) about the size of half-a-crown, place them upon a dish, with three eschalots chopped very finely, a spoonful of chopped parsley, one of chopped tarragon and chervil, and a little salt and pepper, pour six tablespoonfuls of salad-oil and two of vinegar over, toss well together without breaking the meat, and serve either in a salad-bowl or upon another dish; the above proportion is for a pound of meat.

Another method is to have as many slices of cold potatoes as of meat, cut the same size, and after well seasoning the whole, dress them alternately round the dish, one resting upon the other; mix two spoonfuls of oil with one of vinegar, which pour over and serve. Spring onions, slices of beet-root, and radishes, may also be introduced. The remains of poultry may also be dressed in a similar manner.

No. 231. Lobster Salad. Break up a lobster, obtaining as much of the flesh as possible, which cut into slices, have likewise two hard-boiled eggs also in slices, two anchovies filleted, and two cabbage lettuces, or any other salad cut up small; mix the whole well together with a fork in a basin, season with half a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots, one of chopped parsley, one of chopped tarragon and chervil, a little pepper and salt, six spoonfuls of salad-oil, and two of vinegar; when well mixed, turn the whole into a salad-bowl and serve. Crab may be dressed precisely the same.

No. 232. Fish Salads are also very good, and may be made with the remains of John Doree, turbot, salmon, or brill; fillets of soles sauted in butter, when cold, also make excellent salads.

Cut the fish into rather thin slices, have also two young cos lettuces, which separate into leaves and cut lengthwise; add a few leaves of tarragon, a little chervil, season with a little pepper and salt, six or eight spoonfuls of salad-oil, and two of vinegar, or according to taste; mix well together, turn into a salad-bowl and serve. The above salads are excellent for dinner upon a hot summer’s day.

No. 233. Potato Salad. Peel and cut ten middling-sized cold potatoes into slices, and put them into a salad-bowl, season with a little pepper, salt, a teaspoonful of chopped tarragon and chervil, half ditto of chopped eschalots, the same of chopped parsley, six spoonfuls of oil, and two of vinegar; toss all well together without breaking the potatoes, and serve. Cold haricot beans, French beans, and lentils are also excellent dressed in the above method.

No. 234. Plain Salad à la Française. Throughout France, but in France only, this simple style of dressing a salad is fully appreciated, the sight of which refreshes the eyes and revives the appetite; I never heard (in France) any one say, after a copious dinner, this is too much and useless, but, on the contrary, every one reserves, if not an appetite, at least the shade of one, for the approaching salad, the simplicity of its seasoning and its trifling expense principally causing it to be thus popular and so freely partaken of. I have never given a small party at home, but my guests have been at all times anxious to partake of my French salad, which I simply make as follows:

I procure a quantity of salad of any description the most in season (all descriptions of salad being dressed in the same manner, one receipt will do for the whole), but my favorite salad being endive, that is the one I shall here describe.

Take four or five heads of very white endive, detach all the green leaves, and wash each head well in a pail of cold water, but not leaving them in the water, or they would eat quite bitter, which, for my own part, I do not much object to, but many persons do; when clean, cut each head in halves down the centre, cut off the roots, which throw away, lay the endive in the centre of a clean cloth, which take by the four corners and shake until the salad is perfectly dry; then put it into a convenient-sized salad-bowl, season with three saltspoonfuls of salt, two of white pepper, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, six of salad-oil, and one of tarragon and chervil chopped very fine, then stir up lightly with a spoon and fork, and when well mixed let the guests help themselves.

Another method of dressing an endive salad, which, in the opinion of the generality of my guests, is the most preferable in point of flavour, is to rub the salad-bowl with a piece of fresh peeled garlic, then lay in the salad; have three or four pieces of crust of bread, about the size of shillings, let each be well rubbed with the garlic, season and stir well together as before.

Should any ladies, however, be going to partake of it, the bowl and crusts must not be so much rubbed, as too strong a flavour might be objectionable: this last receipt is only applicable to endive, every other salad, such as cos or cabbage lettuce, is plainly dressed as in the first receipt, adding more or less seasoning, or tarragon and chervil; a dozen of green spring onions is also an improvement to a salad.

To make a profitable family salad, a certain quantity of cold roast, stewed, or boiled meat (which you might have remaining) or poultry might be introduced in either of the above salads, having previously cut it into slices; you may also introduce a couple of hard-boiled eggs, cut in rings, with slices of beet-root, cucumbers, ripe tomatas, or even cold potatoes, but then a little more vinegar must be added: from such a salad a small family may in the summer months make an excellent meal.

No. 235. Jelly of various kind of Fruits. Having but little time to make very bright jellies at home, I usually simply make them as directed in the few following receipts—they are excellent and full of flavour: when in a hurry, I generally use isinglass, but at other times boil three calf’s feet, or two cow heels, in a gallon of water, and when well done pass the liquor through a sieve into a basin, and clarify the next day, by taking off every particle of fat, and putting it into a stewpan; place upon the fire, and when boiling, add a pint of water, with which you have whipped the whites of six eggs, mixing the juice of four lemons and two ounces of lump sugar; keep whisking over the fire until upon the point of boiling, when take from the fire, place the cover upon the stewpan, with a little live charcoal, or a few live cinders upon the top, let stand twenty minutes, when pour it through a jelly bag, pouring that which first runs through in again, until running quite clear, when all has passed through, pour it into a stewpan, and reduce it over a sharp fire to about a quart, when put it by for use, instead of isinglass, where indicated.

No. 236. Orange Jelly. The bountiful supply and cheapness of this delicious fruit will enable almost any person to partake of this excellent entremet.

Procure ten middling-sized oranges and two lemons, take the rind from three of the oranges and one of the lemons, as thinly as possible, which put into a basin, put a sieve over, through which squeeze the juice of the oranges and lemons, then put half a pound of sugar in a stewpan over the fire with a pint of water, and let boil until becoming a very thick syrup, when take it off, and add the juice and rind of the fruits, cover the stewpan for a few moments, when again place it over the fire; as soon as boiling commences, skim well, and add two glasses of water by degrees, which will assist its clarification, let boil another minute, when add an ounce and a quarter of isinglass, dissolved as directed (page 592), pass the whole through a jelly bag or fine cloth, and add a few drops of prepared cochineal to give an orange tint; when fill a mould, which place in two or three pounds of ice until set quite firm and ready to serve, when dip the mould in hot water to the rim, wipe the exterior, turn over upon your dish, lifting the mould straight, but gently off from the jelly.

As the sizes of the oranges very much fluctuate, and some produce more juice than others, it would be better to try a little jelly in a spoon upon ice, to ascertain if of the proper strength, before filling your mould. If handy, the same quantity, or a little more, of reduced calf’s foot jelly, as in the last, may be used instead of isinglass.

No. 237. Whipped Orange Jelly. This makes a very pleasing variation, without incurring any additional expense, being merely when the jelly is passed to put it in a bowl, which place upon ice, and commence whipping the jelly until upon the point of setting, when pour it quickly into your mould, which place upon ice until ready to serve, when dip the mould into warm water and turn the jelly out. Orange jelly, as directed in either of the last two, may also be served in the skins of the oranges by proceeding as directed (page 522), and serving them upon a napkin with laurel-leaves between, in the same manner as oranges for a dessert. The remainder of an orange jelly may be melted again, poured into glass custard cups, set upon ice, and served upon another occasion, if sufficient; the remains of a clear one might be whipped and poured again into the mould.

No. 238. Lemon Jelly. Proceed precisely the same as directed for orange, but omitting the oranges, and using the juice of eight and the rind of two lemons; this jelly requires to be kept quite white, and may be served either turned out of a mould, or in glasses, but not in the skin of the fruit, it being too bitter; half a pint of bucellas wine may be added to the above.

No. 239. Currant and Raspberry Jelly. Procure two pounds of fresh currants and a good handful of raspberries, which place in a clean cloth over a basin, fold the cloth up, and press the juice through it with your hands, then add two or three wineglassfuls of cold water, and pass the whole through a jelly bag, make a thick syrup from three quarters of a pound of sugar, to which add two ounces of dissolved isinglass (or sufficient calf’s foot jelly), mix the whole well together; when the syrup is a little cool, taste if palatable, place a little upon some ice, and if strong enough, fill your mould, which place in ice until quite set and ready to serve, when turn it out as before directed.

No. 240. Strawberry Jelly. Put a pint of water in a stewpan to boil, have ready picked a basket of fresh strawberries, and when the water is boiling throw them in, let simmer a minute, add the juice of a lemon, place the lid upon the stewpan, and stand by until half cold, when run the jelly through a napkin or jelly bag, make a syrup, and add the isinglass as above, but using less sugar, finish precisely as in the last.

Either of the last two jellies are, for a change, also very excellent whipped as directed for the orange jelly. It is almost needless to mention that when calf’s foot jelly is used, not quite so much sugar will be required as if only the isinglass.

JELLIES OF LIQUEURS AND SPIRITS.

No. 241. Maresquino Jelly. Have, if any, a quart of rather firm calf’s foot jelly, to which add, when melted, six liqueur-glassfuls of maresquino, and two of brandy, pour in your mould, which set upon ice until firm and ready for use, when turn out of your mould, as before, and serve. If no calf’s foot jelly, isinglass must be used instead, by dissolving an ounce and a half of isinglass, and adding it to a syrup made with the juice of two lemons, half a pound of sugar, and a pint or water, pass through a napkin or jelly bag, add two wineglassfuls more water, with the maresquino and brandy, when partly cold place in your mould, and serve as before.

Jelly made in either of the above methods may be flavoured with any other liqueurs (the quantity used depending principally upon taste), as also with rum, brandy, or whiskey, which last are more fit for a party of gentlemen.

No. 242. Syrup of Almond, Iced à la Varsovienne, a substitute for Blancmange. Almost every ordinary cook is acquainted with the old method of making a blancmange, and the tediousness of its fabrication; so at home I make the following substitute: blanch and pound in a mortar four ounces of sweet and one ounce of bitter almonds, boil three quarters of a pound of sugar to a thickish syrup, put in the almonds, let infuse twenty minutes, then pass it through a tammie, add sufficient dissolved isinglass or calf’s foot jelly to set it, with a glass of brandy or rum, place the above preparation in a bowl upon some ice, keeping it stirred until upon the point of setting, when stir in a pint of cream, previously well whipped, and pour it into a mould, let remain upon ice until ready to serve, when dip into lukewarm water and turn out upon your dish. The flavour of any kind of fruit may be used instead.

No. 243. Pineapple Cream is what I now frequently make in the summer months, using the West Indian pineapples, which may be procured remarkably cheap. Peel a small one, and put the rind into a stewpan, with six ounces of sugar, and two wineglassfuls of water; let boil until reduced to a very thick syrup, when pass it through a sieve into a basin, cut the remainder of the pine into very small strips, which put into the basin with the syrup, have ready boiling half a pint of milk, in which you have dissolved rather more than an ounce of isinglass, in another stewpan have the yolks of five eggs, over which pour the milk, mix well, and stir over the fire until it becomes a little thickish, but not boiling, when pass it through a sieve over the syrup, mix well together, place in a bowl upon some ice, keep stirring until upon the point of setting, when add three parts of a pint of cream, previously whipped, stir well in, fill your mould, which leave upon the ice until ready to serve, when turn it out as in the last.

No. 244. Prussian Cream. Put an ounce and a half of isinglass, previously dissolved, into a bowl, melt it, and add six glasses of any liqueur, and two of brandy, with six ounces of powdered sugar, let well dissolve, place the bowl upon some ice, keeping its contents stirred until upon the point of setting, when add three parts of a pint of whipped cream; fill your mould, and proceed as before.

BOHEMIAN JELLY CREAMS.

No. 245. Strawberry. Pick and pass through a fine sieve a pottle of very fresh strawberries, to which add the juice of a lemon, six ounces of powdered sugar, and an ounce and a half of dissolved isinglass (or sufficient calf’s foot jelly to set it), put the above ingredients into a bowl, which set upon ice, keeping its contents stirred until upon the point of setting, when stir in three parts of a pint of cream, previously whipped; fill your mould, and proceed as before.

For cherries, raspberries, and currants, proceed as for strawberries, but for apricots, peaches, apples, pears, quinces, &c., proceed as follows:

No. 246. Apricot Bohemian Cream. Stone and cut into slices ten or twelve rather small apricots, quite ripe, and throw them into a stewpan containing half a pint of boiling water, and let boil until forming a purée when pass them through a hair sieve, add six ounces of powdered sugar, with the juice of two lemons, and an ounce and a half of isinglass, previously dissolved; place the whole in a bowl, which set upon ice, keep stirring until upon the point of setting, when add three parts of a pint of whipped cream, pour into your mould, which place upon ice, and turn out when ready to serve, as before.

Should your apricots be very ripe there would be no necessity to boil them, but merely rub them through a sieve, mix the lemon-juice, sugar, and isinglass, and finish as above.

Creams of peaches or of any of the before-mentioned fruits are made in the same manner: but until you have confidence in yourself, it would be better to taste for the sweetness, and try the stiffness by placing a little upon ice, previously to finishing it.

No. 247. French Custard Cream. Have ready ten custard glasses, or small coffee cups, measure one of them ten times full of milk, which place in a stewpan, and set upon the fire until boiling, when add a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and the rind of two lemons, free from pith, place the lid upon the stewpan, take from the fire and let infuse ten minutes, then in a basin have ready the yolks of eight eggs, with which stir in the milk by degrees, pass through a tammie and fill the cups; have ready upon the fire a large flat stewpan, containing water sufficient to cover the bottom two inches in depth, and just simmering, stand in the cups, and let remain still simmering until the custards are quite firm, when take them out, let remain until cold, when wash the cups outside, dress them upon a napkin and serve; any kind of flavour may be introduced into the above; but for

No. 248, Coffee Custard Cream, proceed as follows: make half a pint of strong coffee according to the usual method, add half a pint of thin cream or milk previously boiled, sweeten to palate, mix with the yolks of eggs, pass through a tammie, and proceed precisely as directed in the last.

No. 249. Coffee Custard Cream, White. Put a quarter of a pound of green Mocha coffee into a small stewpan, which place over a slow fire, tossing the coffee over frequently until becoming lightly browned, but not black, in another stewpan have boiling a pint of milk, take from the fire, let infuse ten minutes, placing the lid upon the stewpan, then mix with eight yolks of eggs, pass through a tammie, and finish as before.

No. 250. Chocolate Custard Cream. Scrape half a cake of good chocolate, which put into a stewpan, and moisten by degrees with a pint of warm milk and cream, when well dissolved mix with the yolks of eggs, and finish as before.

Any of the above custards may be put into common tart dishes, and set in a potato steamer, or slowly baked in the oven, should the above process be too tedious or inconvenient.

Any description of English boiled custard may be made in the same manner, but instead of pouring it first into the cups, when the infusion is made, mix it with the yolks of eggs, and stir over the fire until thickening (but must not boil, or it would curdle), pass through a tammie, fill your cups or glasses, grate a little nutmeg over each, and serve when quite cold.

No. 251. Almond Custard Cream. The flavour of almonds, which appears to be so generally liked in England, and which were I to omit in custard I should consider it to be a piece of neglect, is generally obtained by the use of an essence which I cannot at all approve of, but consider the following method to obtain that delicious flavour to be much more commendable: blanch and skin two ounces of sweet with a few bitter almonds, pound them well, with sufficient sugar to sweeten a pint of milk, which you have in a stewpan, when boiling throw in the almonds and sugar, cover the stewpan, let infuse ten minutes in another stewpan, have the yolks of eight eggs, upon which pour the infusion, stirring it well and mixing by degrees, stir over the fire until thickening, when pass it through a tammie into a bowl, which place upon ice, or in cold water, keeping it stirred until quite cold, when mix a gill of cream whipped very stiff, fill your cups, sprinkle crushed ratafias over, and they are ready to serve.

By adding a little dissolved isinglass to the above when cooling, any description of spirits or liqueurs may be introduced.

The cream may be omitted, it will then make a good plain custard.

No. 252. Cabinet Pudding. Well butter a plain round mould or basin, round the interior of which stick a quantity of dried cherries, or Smyrna raisins, then about three parts fill the mould with sponge cake, interspersing two ounces of ratafias, over which sprinkle a good glass of brandy, then have ready the following custard: boil a pint of milk, in which infuse the rind of two lemons, free from pith, in a basin, have six whole eggs, which well whisk, with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and add the milk by degrees, pass through a tammie and fill up the mould, round the edge of which place a band of buttered paper, have a convenient-sized stewpan, with about two inches in depth of boiling water, place in your pudding, cover a sheet of paper over, and let simmer gently over the fire, keeping the stewpan covered down close until the pudding becomes quite firm, by which time you should be ready to serve it, take out, detach the paper, and turn from the mould over upon a dish; have ready the following sauce: put half a pint of melted butter into a stewpan, into which stir the yolks of two eggs, and add a glassful of brandy, with the juice of a lemon, and sufficient sugar to sweeten it, stir over the fire until becoming a little thick, when pass it through a tammie, sauce over the pudding and serve.

No. 253. Bread Pudding. Procure four French rolls, the crumb of which put into a basin, with a pint of boiling milk, let remain until half cold, when add six whole eggs, with a quarter of a pound of currants, and one ounce of candied citron, cut into very small dice, mix the whole well together; have ready prepared as in the last a plain round mould, in which pour the above mixture, steam it as in the last; when done and ready to serve, turn from the mould, and serve with the same sauce poured over as before directed.

No. 254. Ground Rice Pudding. Place a pint of milk in a stewpan over the fire, and when boiling throw in the rind of a lemon, cut as thinly as possible, and quite free from pith; take from the fire, cover the stewpan, and leave ten minutes to infuse; then in a basin have six ounces of ground rice, which mix smoothly with half a pint of cold milk, take out the lemon-peel from the milk in the stewpan, pour in the mixture, and stir the whole over the fire until thickening, when take from the fire; add six whole eggs, six ounces of powdered sugar and a little grated nutmeg, mix the whole well together, have ready, well buttered, a pudding-dish, into which pour the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven until set; serve hot.

No. 255. Rice Pudding. Well wash six ounces of Carolina rice in one or two waters, drain and dry it upon a cloth, and put it into a stewpan with a pint and a half of cold milk and a quarter of a pound of butter, place the stewpan over a moderate fire, allowing its contents to simmer very gently until the rice becomes quite tender, when add six whole eggs well whipped, six ounces of sugar, and a little grated nutmeg; pour into a buttered pudding-dish, and bake in a moderate oven until set and nicely coloured; serve hot as before.

Sago, tapioca, semoulina, and vermicelli puddings are made very similar to the last, and served the same; they may of course be flavoured with lemon, any description of spice approved of, or a couple of glasses of brandy, rum, noyeau, maresquino, or almost any description of wine, spirits, or liqueurs.

No. 256. Macaroni Pudding. Have half a pound of macaroni, which boil in half a gallon of water until becoming tender, when drain it upon a sieve; have ready boiling in a stewpan half a pint of milk, in which put the macaroni (having previously cut it into pieces an inch in length), with a quarter of a pound of butter and the rind of a lemon, free from pith, tied in a bunch; let simmer gently about twenty minutes, when take out the lemon-peel and add six whole eggs, well whisked, with six ounces of sugar; have ready a pudding-dish well buttered, into which pour the above preparation; bake and serve as before.

No. 257. Gateau of Rice. Well wash half a pound of Carolina rice, which well drain and put into a stewpan with a quart of milk, a quarter of a pound of butter, and a few sticks of cinnamon; let simmer over a slow fire until the rice is very tender, and the whole becoming thickish, when take out the pieces of cinnamon; add six ounces of powdered sugar and eight whole eggs, stir in quickly over the fire until becoming again thickish, when have ready a plain oval mould, well butter the interior, lay a sheet of buttered paper at the bottom, pour in the above, filling the mould to within three quarters of an inch from the rim, and place in a moderate oven, where let remain until set quite firm, when take from the oven, turn out of your mould upon a dish, and serve quite hot, with a sauce over, as directed for cabinet pudding. Gateaux of macaroni, vermicelli, &c., may also be made by the above directions, preparing them as for pudding, but making the mixture as directed for the rice.

No. 258. Fruit Puddings. As almost every description of fruit pudding is made in the same manner, I consider it would be entirely useless to enter into their details, so shall here content myself with merely giving a description of the apple pudding, which, although one of the most common, is in my opinion one of the best.

Put a pound of flour upon your pastry slab, with which mix half a pound of beef suet, well shred and finely chopped, make a hole in the centre, in which pour nearly half a pint of water, mixing the flour and suet in by degrees, and shaking the whole lightly together, then take two thirds, which roll up into a ball, and with the rolling-pin form it into a round sheet, nearly half an inch in thickness; have ready a round-bottomed basin, well buttered and floured, which line with the sheet of paste, keeping it about an inch above the rim of the basin; have also ready sufficient apples peeled and cut in slices, with which fill the interior, adding a piece of butter the size of a walnut, six ounces of powdered or brown sugar, six or eight cloves, and a little grated nutmeg; wet round the edge of the paste above the basin, roll out the remainder to form a lid of about the same thickness, lay it over the top, joining them well together, then tie the pudding with the basin in a cloth; have ready a good-sized stewpan over the fire, three parts full of boiling water, into which put the pudding, boiling it about an hour and a half: when done and ready to serve take it from the cloth, pass your knife carefully round the sides between the pudding and the basin, turn over upon a dish, lift the basin from it gently, and serve as soon as possible.

Some people prefer the paste for fruit puddings made of butter, which is also very good; but in my opinion the suet paste is much lighter; the trimmings of puff-paste, if any, would also make an excellent crust for a fruit.

Puddings of gooseberries, cherries, currants, raspberries, plums, damsons, &c., are made precisely the same, but omitting the cloves, nutmeg, and piece of butter, and less boiling.

No. 259. Pastry. For the making of good puff-paste I could not give a more simple receipt than that (page 479) in the other department, to which I must refer my readers, as also for half-puff-paste (page 480), which will be found very serviceable in the making of pies or fruit tarts, the method of making which it is here my intention to describe, but for all other dishes of small fancy pastry, a great variety will be found in the Kitchen of the Wealthy, very simply explained, and requiring no greater convenience to make than what my Kitchen at Home will afford.

No. 260. Short Paste for Fruit Tarts. Although I have above stated that the half-puff-paste is very excellent for the covering of fruit tarts, I am also aware that very many persons prefer a short sweet paste, as such I have given the following receipt, leaving my readers to choose between the two, the process being the same for either.

Put a pound of flour upon your pastry slab, with six ounces of butter, and rub them well together with your hands, then make a hole in the centre, in which put two ounces of powdered sugar, two whole eggs, and rather more than a wineglassful of water; mix the eggs, sugar, and water well together, then draw in the flour and butter, shaking the whole well, and when dry work it together lightly with the hands.

No. 261. Apricot Tarts. For tarts the apricots do not require to be too ripe. Procure about two dozen, or according to the size of your dish, split each one in halves, break their stones, and take out their kernels, which blanch and skin, lay the apricots in your dish, building them in the form of a dome above the level of your dish, and interspersing the kernels here and there, cover them over with half a pound of lump sugar broken very small; have ready sufficient half-puff-paste (page 480), or the tart-paste just described, a band of which, the eighth of an inch in thickness, lay round the rim of your dish, previously wetting it, then roll out a sheet of the paste large enough to cover the fruit, and a quarter of an inch in thickness, wet the band of paste upon your dish, and lay the cover over, in which prick a hole in each side between the fruit and the edge of the dish, forming a well all round, and closing the paste well at the edges, trim round with a knife, with which also decorate the edges, wet the top well with white of egg beat to a light froth, over which sprinkle two ounces of finely-powdered sugar, sprinkle with water until the sugar is well dissolved (but not to run off), place in a moderate oven, and bake about an hour, keeping it a very light brown colour, serve when cold.

No. 262. Greengage Tart. Procure a sufficient number of ripe greengages, which put into your dish whole, giving them the form of a dome at the top, and if about two dozen covering them with six ounces of powdered sugar; cover with paste, and proceed exactly as described in the last.

Any description of plum tart is made precisely in the same manner, as also are gooseberry, cherry, currant and raspberry, cranberry, &c. and all requiring about the same time and same description of oven.

No. 263. Apple Tart. Peel and cut about two dozen russet apples in slices, which put into your dish, interspersing them with some lemon peel, free from pith, cut into strips, about six cloves, and a little grated nutmeg; build the apples up in a dome to the centre of your dish, and cover over with half a pound of powdered sugar, then have ready half a pound of puff-paste made as directed (page 479), with which make a band a quarter of an inch in thickness, laying it round the rim of the dish, roll out the remainder of the paste to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, and large enough to cover the fruit, wet the band of paste upon the dish with a little water, lay the cover gently over, pricking a hole with your knife at the top to let out the air, closing it gently at the edges, which trim neatly with a knife; egg the top over with a paste-brush, and place in a moderate oven to bake, which will take about an hour; just before taking from the oven sift a little sugar over, and let remain until melted, forming a nice glaze over the tart, which may be served either hot or cold. Brown sugar may be used for any of the above tarts if approved of, but I have given directions for the white, considering that the brown, although commonly used, frequently destroys the delicious flavour of some descriptions of fruit. The salamander may be used to brown it.

No. 264. French Fruit Tart. Make half a pound of paste as directed (No. 1136, page 481), mould it into a round ball upon your marble slab, and roll to a round sheet a quarter of an inch in thickness, wet round the rims, turning the edge over to form a border half an inch in depth, which press upon with your finger and thumb to about an inch in height, have ready about twenty greengages, or any other description of plums, split each into two, and place them in the interior of your tart, shake some sugar over, and bake about half an hour in a hot oven; serve cold, shaking more sugar over at the time of serving. They may also be made with apricots, peaches, cherries, currants, raspberries, cranberries, or gooseberries, in the same manner; but if made of apples, the fruit must be previously boiled to a marmalade, or stewed in a stewpan, with sugar and a small piece of butter, until tender, previous to putting them in the crust; fruit baked in these tarts is also very excellent meringued as directed (No. 267); plain whipped cream with a little sugar is very good for a change.

No. 265. Plain Souffle Puddings. Put two ounces of butter in a stewpan, with two spoonfuls of flour, mix well together, then add half a pint of milk, with a little salt, and two ounces of sugar, upon which you have rubbed the rind of a fresh lemon or orange, keep stirring over the fire until it thickens, but if becoming too thick, which will depend upon the flour, add more milk, but if the contrary, let reduce until forming a fine softish paste; when stir in quickly the yolks of four eggs, when well mixed set by until cold; you have reserved the whites of the eggs, which, half an hour before serving, whip to a stiffish froth, and mix well but lightly with the other part of the preparation, pour the whole into a deep pie-dish, previously well buttered, and set it in a warm oven, when about half done cut an incision in the top, and put again in the oven, when done shake powdered sugar over the top, glaze lightly with the salamander, if any, and serve immediately. Better the guests wait a few minutes for the souffle than the souffle for the guests.

No. 266. Souffle Rice Pudding. Well wash two ounces of Carolina rice, which when dry put into a stewpan with nearly a pint of milk, an ounce of butter, half the rind of a lemon, free from pith, a little salt, and a spoonful of powdered sugar; set upon the fire until boiling, when draw it to the corner, where let simmer very gently (or place the stewpan upon a trivet at a good height from the fire) until the rice is very tender, when take it from the fire, and beat well with a wooden spoon until forming a smoothish paste, when add the yolks of four or five eggs, mixing them well, pour the whites of the eggs into a bowl, whisk them until very stiff, and mix lightly with the preparation; have ready, buttered lightly, a deep pie-dish, pour in the mixture, and about a quarter of an hour before ready to serve place it in a moderate oven, serving when done, and the moment you take it from the oven. Half the above quantity may of course be made.

Souffle of ground rice is made the same as the above, the rice, however, not requiring so long to simmer as when whole. As also are souffles of tapioca, semoulina, vermicelli, &c., changing their flavours according to taste, using vanilla, lemon, orange, orange-flower-water, or a small quantity of any description of liqueur. A few currants may also be mixed with any of the preparations, or laid at the bottom of the dish, as also may any description of light preserves.

No. 267. Fruits Meringued. Any description of fruits may be served to table meringued, by following the above directions. For apples, peel and cut six into slices, which put into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter, half the rind of a lemon, free from pith, cut into thin strips, with the juice of half a lemon, and a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, or if the apples are perfectly ripe not quite so much, place the stewpan over a moderate fire, tossing the apple over occasionally until quite done, half fill a pie-dish with them, then whip the whites of four eggs to a very stiff froth, with, which mix very lightly a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and lay over the apples in the dish, shake a little sugar over, and set in a slow oven until forming quite a dry crust; it had better remain in the oven a little too long than not long enough, but be sure that the oven is not too hot when you put it in, or it would catch and become quite black, instead of being what it should be, a very light brown, or gold colour.

Apricots, pears, &c., may be done the same, but omitting the butter; for either, cover whilst still warm.

The above fruits also thus prepared may be covered with a souffle of rice, or ground-rice pudding, and baked; they may be then served either hot or cold.

No. 268. Snow Eggs are made with the whites of eggs, thus: whip the whites of five eggs very stiff, to which add (mixing lightly) five ounces of sugar; have boiling in a flat stewpan upon the fire a pint of milk, form pieces of the mixture with a tablespoon in the shape of eggs, and drop them into the boiling milk to poach; when set rather firm take them out with a colander-spoon, and lay them upon a sieve with a plate under to drain; when all are poached your milk will be reduced to about half; then in another stewpan put the yolks of three eggs, with a little sugar, and a few drops of orange-flower-water, beat well together, then add the milk, and keep stirring over the fire until forming a thickish custard (but not allowing it to boil), when pass it through a tammie, dress the eggs tastefully in crown upon your dish, pour the custard over and serve. You may also poach six or eight very fresh eggs in water, with which you have added a little vinegar; when well set take out with a colander-spoon, drain them upon a cloth until cold, dress them upon a dish, or in a flat glass dish, pour a custard over, prepared as above, but with which, if handy, you have mixed a little whipped cream.

For every description of omelettes I must refer my readers to the series of omelettes in the other department of this work.

No. 269. Plum Pudding. Pick and stone one pound of the best Malaga raisins, which put in a basin, with one pound of currants (well washed, dried, and picked), a pound and a half of good beef suet (chopped, but not too fine), three quarters of a pound of white or brown sugar, two ounces of candied lemon and orange-peel, two ounces of candied citron, six ounces of flour, and a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs, with a little grated nutmeg; mix the whole well together, with eight whole eggs and a little milk; have ready a plain or ornamented pudding-mould, well butter the interior, pour the above mixture into it, cover a sheet of paper over, tie the mould in a cloth, put the pudding into a large stewpan containing boiling water, and let boil quite fast for four hours and a half (or it may be boiled by merely tying it in a pudding cloth previously well floured, forming the shape by laying the cloth in a round-bottomed basin and pouring the mixture in, it will make no difference in the time required for boiling); when done take out of the cloth, turn from the mould upon your dish, sprinkle a little powdered sugar over, and serve with the following sauce in a boat: put the yolks of three eggs in a stewpan, with a spoonful of powdered sugar, and a gill of milk, mix well together, add a little lemon-peel, and stir over the fire until becoming thickish (but do not let it boil), when add two glasses of brandy, and serve.

The above sauce may be served poured over the pudding if approved of.

An excellent improvement to a plum pudding is to use half a pound of beef marrow cut into small dice, omitting the same quantity of suet.

No. 270. Currant Pudding. Put a pound and a half of flour into a basin, with a pound of beef suet, shred and chopped very fine, and a pound of currants, well washed, picked, and dried, add a little powdered cinnamon, or grated nutmeg, and mix well together, with four whole eggs, a quarter of a pound of brown sugar, and half a pint of milk, boil it as directed for plum pudding, either in a mould or tied in a cloth, but two hours would be sufficient; when done turn out upon a dish and serve quite plain, or with sauce as above.

The above mixture divided in small puddings or dumplings about the size of apples, boiled about half an hour, and served hot to table with a little powdered sugar over, are also excellent.

No. 271. Sweet Maccaroons. Blanch and skin half a pound of sweet almonds, dry them well in your screen, then put them into a mortar, with a pound and a half of lump sugar, pound well together, and pass the whole through a wire sieve, put it again into the mortar, with the whites of two eggs, mix well together with the pestle, then add the white of another egg, proceeding thus until you have used the whites of about eight eggs, and made a softish paste, when lay them out at equal distances apart upon wafer paper, in pieces nearly the size of walnuts, place some strips of almonds upon the top, sift sugar over, and bake in a slow oven of a yellowish-brown colour; they are done when set quite firm through.

No. 272. Bitter Maccaroons, or Ratafias, are made similar to the above, but deducting two ounces of sweet, and adding two ounces of bitter almonds; they are laid out in much smaller cakes upon common paper, and baked in a much warmer oven; when cold they may be taken off the paper with the greatest ease. These cakes are very serviceable in making a great many second-course dishes.

No. 273. Mince Meat. Procure four pounds and a half of kidney beef suet, which skin and chop very finely, have also three pounds of candied lemon and orange peel, a quarter of a pound of citron, a pound and a half of lean cooked beef, and three pounds and a half of apples, the whole separately chopped very fine, and put into a large pan with four pounds and a half of currants, well washed and picked, two ounces of mixed spice, and two pounds of sugar; mix the whole well together with the juice of eight lemons and a pint of brandy, place it in jars, and tie down until ready for use; a pound and a half of Malaga raisins, well stoned and chopped, may likewise be added to the above.

No. 274. Mince Pies. Have a piece of puff-paste made as directed (page 479), which roll out to the thickness of a penny-piece, have also a dozen tartelette-pans, which lightly butter, cut out twelve pieces with a round cutter from the paste, each the size of your tartelette-pans, lay them upon the slab; roll the trimming of the paste again to the former thickness, cut twelve other pieces, with which line the tartelette-pans, put a piece of mince-meat in each, wet them round, place on the lids, pricking a hole with a pin in the centre, and close them well at the edges; egg over lightly, and bake about twenty minutes in a moderate oven.

END OF RECEIPTS FOR KITCHEN AT HOME.