ENTREMETS. (continued 2)

No. 1256. Bavaroise aux Framboises.

Proceed exactly as for the strawberries in the last, using a pound and a quarter of raspberries and six ounces of currants; or either of the above bavaroises may be made by putting the fruit into a preserving-pan with three quarters of a pound of powdered sugar, moving it over the fire until boiling, when strain it through a silk sieve mixing the juice with the dissolved isinglass, and finish as before; should either of the above be deficient in colour a little essence of cochineal may be used.

No. 1257. Bavaroise aux Abricots.

Take twelve ripe fleshy apricots, cut them in halves, stone them, and put them into a preserving-pan with half a pound of sugar, the juice of two lemons, and an ounce of isinglass, dissolved in a little water, stew them till quite tender, then rub them through a tammie, put them in a basin when cold, stir it upon the ice, and when upon the point of setting add a pint of cream well whipped, and pour into your mould.

No. 1258. Bavaroise aux Poires.

Procure a dozen and a half of middling-sized pears, peel and cut out the cores, slice them into a preserving-pan, with the juice of two lemons (the rind of one of which also add, cut very thin), twenty bitter almonds blanched, and chopped very fine, half a pound of lump sugar, and an ounce of clarified isinglass, place the pan upon a moderate fire, moving the contents occasionally, stew until quite tender, when rub them through a tammie, and finish as in the last.

No. 1259. Bavaroise aux Pommes.

Peel and cut in quarters twenty small pippin apples, which put into a preserving-pan, with the juice of two lemons, two glasses of sherry, half a pound of sugar, and an ounce of clarified isinglass; proceed precisely as in the last article, adding a glass of maresquino, if approved of, or noyeau.

No. 1260. Bavaroise aux Pistaches.

Blanch and skin four ounces of pistachios with twelve bitter almonds, and pound them well with six ounces of sugar, upon which you have rubbed the rind of a lemon; when well pounded throw it into three quarters of a pint of boiling milk with three quarters of an ounce of isinglass, boil altogether five minutes, then pour it into a bowl or basin, stand upon the ice, keep stirring, and when upon the point of setting add a pint of cream whipped and some of the preparation of spinach, as for the crème aux pistaches (No. 1244); pour it into your mould, which must be previously lightly oiled, and twenty chopped pistachios shook over the interior, until adhering to the sides.

No. 1261. Bavaroise à l’Ananas.

Procure a middlingsized pineapple, peel and cut it in slices, which put into a small preserving-pan, with half a pound of sugar, half an ounce of isinglass, and a wineglassful of water, stew until quite tender, then rub them through a tammie, set it on the ice, keeping it stirred; when upon the point of setting add a pint of cream well whipped, mix well, and pour it into your mould.

No. 1262. Bavaroise au Maresquin.

Put one ounce and a half of isinglass in a stewpan, with half a pint of water, the juice of two lemons, and four ounces of lump sugar, boil altogether, reducing one half, skim and pass it through a tammie into a bowl; when cold add four glasses of maresquino, and two of brandy, place it on the ice, and when upon the point of setting add a pint of cream well whipped, and pour it into your mould.

No. 1263. Bavaroise au Ponche.

Boil one ounce of isinglass in a stewpan with the juice of four and the rind of two lemons cut very thin, half a pound of sugar, and nearly half a pint of water, reduce one half, then pass it through a tammie into a bowl or basin, and when cold add two glasses of maresquino, two of rum, and half a one of arrack, place it upon the ice and finish as in the last, or use the milk punch as directed for crème au ponche.

I must here observe, that although I have stated as nearly as possible the quantity of isinglass to be used in the foregoing recipes, yet there are so many causes which may make it either too much or insufficient, such as the difference in quality of isinglass, or the difference in the quantity of juice extracted from the various fruits, which would make it impossible to be exact; so that the surest method is to try a little first upon the ice before adding the whipped cream, if too stiff, a little more milk, juice, or liqueur (whatever it may be you are making) must be added, but if not stiff enough, a little more clarified isinglass, which is the method adopted by most practitioners.

No. 1264. Charlotte Russe.

Line the inside of a plain round mould with Savoy biscuits (No. 1361), cutting and placing them at the bottom to form a rosette, and standing them upright round the sides, with a piece cut off the top and bottom of each, and trimmed at the sides to make them stand quite close, stand the mould upon ice, then have ready a crème au maresquin (No. 1251), to which you have added a good glass of cognac brandy, with which you fill the interior, when set and at the time of serving, turn over upon a dish and lift off the mould.

No. 1265. Charlotte Prussienne.

Put a little jelly (flavoured with a little brandy and coloured of a beautiful crimson, with a little essence of cochineal) into a plain round mould, covering the bottom half an inch in depth; place it upon the ice, then line the sides of the mould with Savoy biscuits, and fill with a bavaroise au maresquin (No. 1262), place it upon ice till set, and when ready to serve dip the bottom of the mould very quickly in warm water, and turn it over upon your dish.

No. 1266. Charlotte Russe en mosaïque.

Have a plain round mould, at the bottom of which lay some grapes (white and black), strawberries, pieces of apples (stewed), pears, or any fruit in season; cover the bottom, variegating them as much as possible to imitate mosaic, set the mould upon ice, and pour in a little clear jelly, but only sufficient to just cover them; when set line the side of the mould with the biscuits, and fill as for charlotte russe, only introducing angelica and stewed apples, cut in large dice, with the cream.

No. 1267. Charlotte Russe aux Liqueurs.

Line a mould as directed in either of the three last articles, and fill with a cream made as for the crème au maresquin (No. 1251), only using one glass of curaçoa, one of noyeau, and one of maresquino, instead of all maresquino.

No. 1268. Charlotte aux Fraises.

Line a plain round mould with ripe strawberries by burying the mould in ice to the rim, and dipping the strawberries in calf’s-foot jelly, first covering the bottom with them cut in halves, the cut side downwards, afterwards building them up the sides, the jelly (which must be cold, but not set) causing them to adhere; when finished, fill it with the cream as directed for the charlotte russe, and when ready to serve, dip the mould in warm water, and turn it out upon your dish. The cream must be very nearly set when you pour it in, or it would run between the strawberries and produce a bad effect.

No. 1269. Gateaux aux Fruits de belle saison.

Line a charlotte mould very tastefully with various kinds of fruits (such as stoned cherries, strawberries, pieces of peaches, apricots, apples, or pears, cut into very tasteful shapes, stewed in a little syrup, and drained upon the back of a hair sieve), by dipping them into jelly, forming some design at the bottom of the mould, and building them in reverse rows up the sides, having the mould previously placed in ice, when well set, terminate as in the last.

No. 1270. Charlotte de Pommes au Beurre.

For the few following receipts, the russet apple is the one I should recommend, it being the most suitable, not being so watery, or falling in purée, but in case they cannot be obtained other sorts may be used, which will require to be more reduced in stewing.

Well butter the interior of a plain round mould, then cut twelve pieces of bread the size and thickness of a shilling, dip them in clarified butter, and lay them in a circle round the bottom of your mould; cut also eight small pieces in the shape of diamonds, dip them in butter, and with them form a star in the centre of the circle, cover the whole with a round piece of bread the size of the bottom of the mould and the thickness of a penny-piece, cut about thirty other pieces an inch wide and four inches in length, dip one after the other in clarified butter, which stand upright, one half way over the other, all round the interior of the mould; then have ready prepared two dozen or more russet apples, which peel and cut in slices, put them into a round-bottomed preserving-pan with six ounces of butter and half a pound of broken lump sugar, with a little lemon-peel cut in strips, and a glass of sherry, place them over a sharp fire, tossing over occasionally, but keeping them together in a cake; when quite tender fill your mould (having previously well egged and bread-crumbed the interior), place another round piece of bread (also egged and bread-crumbed) over the apples, and stand the mould in a hot oven until the bread becomes well browned, take out and turn it over upon your dish, have a few spoonfuls of red currant jelly in a stewpan, with a glass of sherry, melt it over the fire, and when quite hot pour round the charlotte; sugar and salamander the top if not quite crisp, and serve.

No. 1271. Charlotte de Pommes à la Confiture.

Proceed as in the last, but when the apples are ready mix a few spoonfuls of apricot marmalade with them and fill the mould; place it in the oven, and serve as before.

No. 1272. Chartreuse de Pommes.

Procure twenty small russet apples, cut off the top and bottom of each, and with a long vegetable cutter cut out as many pieces as possible of the thickness of a quill, and about an inch in length, have in a stewpan upon the fire a thick syrup made from half a pound of sugar, with the juice of a lemon and half a pint of water; when well reduced throw in half your pieces of apples, stew them until tender, but not to break, take them out and lay them upon a hair sieve, put the other half of the apples into the syrup, stew them until nearly done, then add a little essence of cochineal to give them a crimson colour, stew a minute or so more, then take them out, lay them on the sieve till cold, lightly oil a plain round mould, cut some pieces of green angelica, with which form a star at the bottom of the mould, and a border round the bottom, then with the white pieces of apples make a row round the sides, standing each piece upon one end slantingly, one leaning upon the other, above which place a row of the red pieces in the same manner, and so on alternately till you reach the top; you have previously peeled a dozen and a half of apples, which cut in slices and put in a preserving-pan, with half a pound of sugar, the juice of a lemon, a small piece of butter, a little powdered cinnamon, and a small glass of rum, place them over a sharp fire, stirring occasionally until forming a thick marmalade, put them in a basin until cold, fill your chartreuse, and when ready to serve turn it out upon your dish, garnish with fillets of red currant jelly, and pour a little white syrup reserved from the apples over.

No. 1273. Suédoise de Pommes.

This very grotesque entremet was never a favorite of mine; any kind of ornaments, such as cascades, ruins, arches, &c., may be made from them, and ornamented with various fruits, but they look very heavy, and from the apples being so much boiled and reduced become very unpalatable, they being nothing more than apples boiled in syrup to a very firm marmalade; I shall not here enter into the various modes of dressing it, but substitute other entremets, which, if not so ornamental, are at any rate much more palatable.

No. 1274. Pain de Pommes à la Russe.

Put one pound and a half of lump sugar and a pint and a half of water into a round-bottomed copper preserving-pan, place it over a sharp fire and reduce it to au casse (No. 1379), have ready twenty-four good brown pippin apples peeled and cut into slices, which put into the sugar, keeping stirred until it becomes quite a thick marmalade, take off the fire and put it into a cylinder mould, previously slightly oiled, shake it well down and let it remain until quite cold, when turn it out of the mould upon your dish; have a few spoonfuls of currant jelly in a stewpan, which melt over the fire, add two glasses of good old rum, and when partly cold pour over and serve with whipped cream in the centre, in which you have introduced a quarter of an ounce of candied orange-flowers.

No. 1275. Croquettes de Pommes.

Prepare some apples as in the above, (or the remains of one previously served,) when cold form it into the shape of pears, have three eggs in a basin well whisked, dip each piece into it, then throw them into a dish of bread-crumbs, smooth them over with a knife, then again dip them into the eggs and bread-crumbs, and fry of a light brown colour in very hot lard, dress them upon a napkin in pyramid, and serve with sifted sugar flavoured with orange over them.

No. 1276. Pommes au Riz.

Peel and quarter twelve good-sized apples, put them into a preserving-pan, with three quarters of a pound of sugar, the thin rind of a lemon in strips, the juice of another, and a wineglassful of water, pass them over a sharp fire, and when tender lay them upon the back of a hair sieve to drain, then put six ounces of rice into a stewpan, with a quart of milk, place it upon the fire, stir until boiling, then place it upon a very slow fire to simmer very gently until quite tender, placing a little fire upon the lid, if it becomes dry before it is tender add a little more milk, then add a quarter of a pound of sugar, a quarter of a pound of butter, and four eggs, stir them well in, stir over the fire until becoming again thick, when put it upon a dish to get cold, then form a stand with it upon your dish eight inches in diameter and three in height, but hollow in the centre, where dress some of the apples, more rice over, then more apples, forming a pyramid; you have previously reduced the syrup drained from the apples, which pour over the whole, and garnish with some very green angelica, forming any design your fancy may dictate. Pommes au riz may be served hot as well as cold.

No. 1277. Poires au Riz.

Peel and cut in halves eighteen small ripe pears, which put in a small preserving-pan, with three quarters of a pound of sugar, a little water, and the juice of two lemons. Stew them till tender, then lay them upon a dish to cool, and mix three tablespoonfuls of apricot marmalade with the syrup, have some rice prepared as in the last, with which make a stand, but not quite so high, dress the pears in a border in the interior, and again in the centre dress the remainder of the rice in pyramid; when ready to serve pour the syrup over, and garnish tastefully with angelica round.

No. 1278. Abricots au Riz.

Proceed exactly as in the last, only passing two dozen of apricots cut in halves, with the kernels from the stones previously blanched and skinned, in the syrup instead of pears, dress them upon the dish precisely the same.

No. 1279. Pommes au Riz en Timbale.

Line a plain round mould with pâte fine (No. 1136), having previously buttered it, the paste must not be thicker than a shilling, then line the interior of the paste with rice dressed as for pommes au riz, placing eight apples in the centre, likewise dressed as for pommes au riz, cover another sheet of paste over, and put in a hot oven until the paste is quite done; when three parts cold turn out upon your dish, mask it over with apricot marmalade, and decorate it with dried cherries and blanched pistachios, according to taste; do not serve until quite cold. Apricots and pears may also be used; this entremet may also be served hot.

No. 1280. Pommes à la Trianon.

Put four ounces of ground rice in a stewpan, with a pint and a quarter of milk and two ounces of butter, stir until boiling, then add the rind of a lemon cut very thin, let simmer over a slow fire until the rice is done and becomes rather thick, when take out the lemon-peel and add a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar and the yolks of eight eggs, stir again over the fire until the eggs are set, and put it out upon a dish to get cold, then turn twelve golden pippin apples, taking off the rind without leaving the mark of your knife, having previously with a long vegetable cutter taken out the cores, rub the apples with lemon-juice and stew them in a thick syrup (made with three quarters of a pound of sugar boiled with half a pint of water and the juice of a lemon), stew them until tender, but keep them whole, peel and quarter three oranges, which (after having taken out the apples) just give a boil up in the syrup, then dress the rice in pyramid in the centre of your dish, surrounded with the apples interspersed with the quarters of oranges, and pour the syrup over when ready to serve.

No. 1281. Pommes Meringuées.

Line a small raised pie-mould, three inches in height and eight in diameter, with pâte fine (No. 1136), about a quarter of an inch in thickness, or if no mould raise a crust with the hands of pâte a dresser, fill it with bran or flour, and bake in a moderate oven; when done empty it and have ready some apples dressed as for charlotte de pommes (No. 1270), or dressed in syrup as in the last, with which fill the croustade, then make a meringue preparation (No. 1218), of five eggs, which lay over the top, smoothing it nicely, and ornamenting it with some of the mixture, by piping it with a paper funnel according to your taste, sift a little sugar over, and place it in a very slow oven till it becomes crisp, and serve when ready either hot or cold.

No. 1282. Pommes à la Vestale.

Make a pyramid of rice (upon a dish) dressed as for pommes au riz (No. 1276), peel and cut eight russet apples in slices and put them into a preserving-pan, with half a pound of sugar and the juice of a lemon, stew till quite tender and put them into a basin to cool, then cut nine small apples, (golden pippins) in halves, to which give the shape of cups, which stew in a thick syrup until nearly tender, but not to break, then place the apples upon the pyramid, make eighteen small tartelettes (No. 1155) of thin gum paste, small enough to fix in each cup of apple, and dress them in pyramid upon the others; when ready to serve cover the whole with thick syrup, pour a teaspoonful of brandy into each tartelette, with some in the dish, which set on fire at the moment of going to table, it has a very pleasing effect.

No. 1283. Pommes au Beurre.

Peel eighteen russet apples, which cut in quarters and trim of a nice shape, put them into a small preserving-pan, with two ounces of butter and three quarters of a pound of sugar, having previously rubbed the rind of an orange upon it and pounded it, pass them over a sharp fire, moving occasionally until quite tender, have ready buttered a plain dome mould, put the apples into it, pressing them down a little close; when half cold turn it out of the mould upon a dish, and cover all over with apricot marmalade; when cold it is ready to serve.

No. 1284. Miroton de Pommes.

Procure a dozen russet apples, which cut into slices a quarter of an inch in thickness, peel and take out the cores with a round cutter, then put two ounces of butter in a sauté-pan, spread it over the bottom and lay in your apples, with half a pound of powdered sugar and the juice of two lemons, stew gently over a moderate fire; when done dress them rather high in crown upon your dish, melt three spoonfuls of red currant jelly in a stewpan, with which mix a glass of Madeira wine, which pour over when ready to serve.

No. 1285. Beignets de Pommes.

Make a paste as follows: put a pound of sifted flour into a basin, with which mix a good half pint of water, mix it with a wooden spoon until very smooth, then have an ounce and a half of butter melted in a stewpan, which stir into it, whisk the whites of three eggs very stiff, which also stir in gently, then have six russet apples, which cut in slices a quarter of an inch in thickness, peel them and take out the cores with a round cutter, dip each piece separately into the batter, when completely but thinly enveloped drop them into a stewpan of hot lard, to fry them well, the lard should not at first be too hot, but become hotter as they proceed in cooking, proceeding thus till you have fried the whole of them a nice light brown colour, drain them upon a cloth, then lay them upon a baking-sheet, sift sugar over and glaze them with the salamander, serve dressed in a double crown upon a napkin.

No. 1286. Beignets d’Oranges.

Prepare a paste or batter as in the last, then peel eight middling-sized oranges, quarter them, without breaking the thin skin that divides them, and take off all the white pith, dip each piece singly into the batter, and then into a stewpan of hot lard; fry of a nice light colour, drain upon a napkin, lay them upon a baking-sheet, sift sugar over, glaze with the salamander, and serve them dressed in pyramid upon a napkin.

The fruit for any description of fritters may be soaked in any liqueur for half an hour before they are required, but it often prevents their being well fried.

No. 1287. Beignets de Pêches.

Skin and cut in halves twelve ripe but firm peaches, take out the stones and put the peaches into a basin, with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, toss them together lightly, but not to break the peaches; have a batter prepared as in the last, in which dip each piece of peach separately, fry them in lard, not too hot, glaze and serve precisely as in the last.

No. 1288. Beignets d’Abricots.

Gut twelve or fourteen apricots in halves, put them into a basin with a little powdered sugar, and proceed exactly as for beignets de pêches.

No. 1289. Croquettes de Riz.

Well wash half a pound of the best Carolina rice, which put into a stewpan, with a pint and a half of milk, and a quarter of a pound of butter, place it upon the fire, stir until boiling, then place it upon a slow fire, cover the stewpan and let simmer very slowly until quite tender; rub the rind of a lemon upon a lump of sugar weighing a quarter of a pound, pound it in a mortar quite fine, add it to the rice, with the yolks of eight eggs (mix well), stir them a few minutes longer over the fire until the eggs thicken, but do not let it boil, lay out upon a dish, when cold form it into a number of small balls, or pears, or into long square pieces, according to fancy; have three or four eggs in a basin well whisked, dip each piece in singly, and then into a dish of bread-crumbs, smooth them gently with a knife, dip them again into the eggs and bread-crumbs, put them into a wire basket, which put in a stewpan of very hot lard, fry a nice light brown colour, drain on a cloth, dress them pyramidically upon a napkin, and serve with powdered sugar sifted over them.

No. 1290. Croquettes de Crème au Riz.

Proceed precisely as in the last, only using ground rice instead of whole, they are finished and served exactly the same.

No. 1291. Croquettes de Macaroni.

Blanch six ounces of macaroni in half a gallon of boiling water until tender, then strain and put it in a basin of cold water; when cold cut it into pieces half an inch in length, and put it into a stewpan containing a pint and a half of boiling milk, in which you have infused a stick of vanilla, boil until it becomes thickish, add a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, two ounces of butter, and the yolks of eight eggs, stir them well in over the fire until the eggs thicken, then pour out upon a dish, and proceed precisely as for the croquettes de riz.

No. 1292. Croquettes de Vermicelle.

Put six ounces of vermicelli in a stewpan with a pint and a half of milk, boil until very tender and becoming thick, keeping it stirred with a spoon, then add a quarter of a pound of sugar, upon which the rind of a Seville orange has been rubbed, and two ounces of butter, stir well in, add the yolks of eight eggs, and proceed as directed in the last article.

Croquettes of semolina may also be made the same way.

No. 1298. Crème Frite à la Patissière.

Put the yolks of six eggs in a stewpan with two good tablespoonfuls of sifted flour, mix quite smooth with a wooden spoon; then add a pint of boiling milk or cream, stir in by degrees and place it over the fire, keeping stirred until it thickens, add an ounce of butter, six ounces of sugar, two ounces of crushed ratafias, a little orange-flower-water, and three whole eggs, mix the whole well together, and stir it a few minutes longer over the fire until the eggs set; then pour it out upon a sauté-pan, previously oiled, and when quite cold cut it into pieces one inch wide and two and a half long, dip them in eggs and bread-crumbs twice over, the same as for croquettes, fry them in the same manner, dress upon a napkin as high as you can, with sifted sugar over, they may be flavoured also with vanilla or lemon. They may be varied in shape according to fancy.

No. 1294. Beignets Soufflés à la Vanille.

Place half a pint of milk in a stewpan over the fire, and when boiling put in a fresh stick of vanilla, place a cover upon the stewpan, let it infuse ten minutes, then take out the vanilla and add rather more than an ounce of butter, place it again upon the fire, and when boiling stir in quickly six ounces of flour; dry the paste well over the fire, keeping it from sticking to the bottom of the stewpan, then take it off and stir in six whole eggs gradually, and six ounces of powdered sugar; have ready a stewpan of hot lard, into which drop the above mixture in pieces about the size of small walnuts, fry a nice colour, and when quite done drain them upon a cloth, and serve upon a napkin with sifted sugar over; they may also be flavoured with orange-flower-water.

No. 1295. Frangipane.

Put six whole eggs in a stewpan with three tablespoonfuls of flour, beat well together with a wooden spoon, then add a pint of milk or cream, and keep stirring over the fire until it becomes thick and upon the point of boiling; add a quarter of a pound of sugar, upon which the rind of an orange or lemon has been rubbed, two ounces of crushed ratafias, and a small glass of brandy (mix well); put two ounces of butter in a stewpan, place it upon the fire, and when getting a little brown stir it into the frangipane, which is then ready for use; it may be flavoured also with vanilla or any of the flavours used for such purposes.

No. 1296. Omelettes à la Célestine.

Put a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar and a quarter of a pound of flour together in a basin, which well mix with four eggs till smooth, then add nearly half a pint of milk; have ready an omelette-pan, in which put a small piece of butter, when the pan is quite hot pour in two tablespoonfuls of the mixture, which let spread all over the pan, when quite set and of a light brown colour underneath, turn it over upon the bottom of a stewpan-lid, previously buttered, and again from that upon a cloth, proceeding thus with the whole mixture, then spread a teaspoonful of apricot marmalade upon each; have ready some frangipane as directed in the last, quite hot, lay a piece the size of a small sausage upon each, and fold them up neatly, trim the ends, lay them upon a baking-sheet, sift sugar over and glaze lightly with the salamander, dress them in crown, or in pyramid upon your dish, and serve very hot.

No. 1297. Pannequets à la Confiture.

Put a quarter of a pound of sifted flour into a basin with four eggs, mix them together very smoothly, then add half a pint of milk or cream, and a little grated nutmeg, put a piece of butter in your pan (it requires but a very little), and when quite hot put in two tablespoonfuls of the mixture, let spread all over the pan, place it upon the fire, and when coloured upon one side turn it over, then turn it upon your cloth; proceed thus till they are all done, then spread apricot or other marmalade all over, and roll them up neatly, lay them upon a baking-sheet, sift sugar over, glaze nicely with the salamander, and serve upon a napkin; the above may be served without the marmalade, being then the common pancake.