CAPTAIN COOK’s VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. In 1768, 1769, 1770 and 1771.

The short intercourse which the English gentlemen had with the inhabitants of New Holland, prevented them from obtaining so perfect a knowledge of the language of these people as could have been wished; but, as it is an object too curious to be passed over in silence, we shall give our readers the most particular account that could be procured. They articulated their words very distinctly, though they made a great motion with their lips when they were speaking, and their utterance was rather vociferous, particularly when they intended to shew their disapprobation of any thing. When they were pleased, they would manifest their satisfaction by saying hee, with a long flexion of the voice, in a loud and shril tone. They frequently repeated the word tut, when in company with the English, several times together, which was supposed to be an expression of astonishment and admiration; upon the whole, their language was neither harsh nor inharmonious, as will appear from the following vocabulary.

A Vocabulary of the language of the inhabitants of New Holland.

Wageegee, The head.

Eiyamoac, The crown of the head.

Moree, The hair of the head.

Walloo, The temples.

Peete, The forehead.

Meul, The eyes.

Garbar, The eye-brows.

Melea, The ears.

Bonjoo, The nose.

Yembe, The lips.

Mulere, The teeth.

Unjar, The tongue.

Tacal, The chin.

Waller, The beard.

Doomboo, The neck.

Morcol, The throat.

Coyor, The breast.

Gippa, The belly.

Mocoo, The back.

Aco, The arms.

Mangal, The hands.

Eboorbalga, The thumb.

Nakil, The little finger.

Pongo, The knees.

Peegoorga, The legs.

Edamal, The feet.

Kolke, The nails.

Bamma, A man.

Mootjel, A woman.

Dunjo, A father.

Tumurree, A son.

Tennapuke, The hole made in the nostrils for the reception of the bone ornament.

Cotta, A dog.

Poteea, Fish.

Putai, A turtle.

Tabugga, A fly.

Walboolbool, A butterfly.

Zoocoo, Wood.

Maianang, Fire.

Poorai, Water.

Poapoa, Earth.

Galan, The sun.

Wulgar, The clouds.

Kere, The sky.

Boota, To eat.

Chucula, To drink.

Marra, To go.

Mingoore, To dance.

Mailelel, To swim.

Aibudje, To yawn.

Poona, To sleep.

Wonananio, Asleep.

Tocaya, Sit down.

Eya & ba, That or this.

Te, A, or the.

We shall now proceed to give an account of their passage from New South Wales to New Guinea, with a recital of the incidents which happened on their landing on the last mentioned country.⁠⸺Early in the morning of the 24th of August 1770, the cable broke near the ring, in the attempt to weigh the anchor; on which another anchor was dropped, which prevented the ship’s driving. As the loss of an anchor might have been attended with future ill consequences, the boats were sent to sweep for it; but their first attempt being unsuccessful, they were dispatched again in the afternoon, when it was found, and the ship being brought up to it, they weighed it; yet, unfortunately, just as they were going to ship it, the hawser slipped, and all their labour was frustrated. Determined, however, not to lose the anchor, they re-applied their endeavours on the following morning, when they were attended with success.

Soon after the anchor was weighed, the ship got under sail, steering north-west, and in a few hours one of the boats, which was a-head, made the signal for shoal-water. The ship instantly brought to, with all her sails standing, and a survey being taken of the sea around her, it was found that she had met with another narrow escape, as she was almost encompassed with shoals; and was likewise so situated between them, that she must have struck before the boat’s crew had made the signal, if she had been half the length of a cable on either side. In the afternoon she made sail with the ebb tide, and got out of danger before sun-set, when she brought to for the night.

The meeting with these shoals having determined the Captain to alter his intended course, he sailed again the next morning (Sunday the 26th) and soon got into deep water. They now steered a westward course, and, as no land was within sight, held it on till the dusk of the evening, when they shortened sail, and made opposite tacks during the night. The next morning they pursued their voyage, again shortening sail at night, and tacking till day-break of the 28th, when they steered due north, in search of New Guinea.

They now observed many parts of the sea covered with a kind of brown scum, to which the sailors gave the name of Spawn. It is formed of an incredible number of minute particles, each of which, when seen through the microscope, was found to consist of a considerable number of tubes, and these tubes were subdivided into little cells. The scum being burnt, and yeilding no smell like what is produced by animal substances, it was concluded that it was of the vegetable kind. This scum, which has been often seen on the coast of Brazil, generally makes its appearance near the land.⁠—A bird, which is called the Noddy, was found this evening among the rigging of the ship. Land having been seen this day from the mast-head, they stood off and on all night, and at day-break they sailed towards it with a brisk gale.

Between six and seven o’clock they had sight of a small island, distant about three miles from the main land, which has already been distinguished by the names of St. Bartholomew, and Whermoysen. It is a very flat island, clothed with trees, among which is the cocoa-nut; and was judged to be inhabited, by the smoke of fires which were seen on several parts of it. The boats were now sent out to sound, as the water was shallow; but as the ship, in sailing two leagues, had found no increase in its depth, signals were made for the boats to return on board, and the vessel stood out to sea till midnight, and then tacked, and stood in for land till the morning. When they were about four leagues distant from it, they had sight of it from the deck, and its appearance was still flat and woody. Abundance of the brown scum was still seen on the surface of the sea, and the Tars, convinced that it was not spawn, gave it the whimsical name of Sea-saw-dust.

The ship now held a northward course, barely within sight of land, till the 3d of September; and as the water was but just deep enough to navigate the vessel, many unsuccessful attempts were made to bring her near enough to get on shore: it was therefore determined to land in one of the boats, while the ship kept plying off and on.

In consequence of this resolution, on the 3d of September, the Captain, accompanied by Messrs. Banks and Solander, and attended by the boat’s crew and Mr. Banks’s servants, set out in the pinnace; but when they came within two hundred yards of the shore the water was so shallow, that they were obliged to leave the boat, in the care of two of the sailors, and wade to land. They were no sooner clear of the water, than they saw several prints of human feet on the sand, below high-water-mark, from whence it was evident, that the natives had been very lately there. About one hundred yards from the water there was a thick wood, along the borders of which they walked till they arrived on the banks of a brook of water, on which was situated a fine grove of cocoa-nut trees, which abounded with fruit.

At a small distance from the trees stood an Indian hut, which had been thatched with their leaves, of which some yet remained; and round the hut were scattered many cocoa-nut-shells, the fruit of which seemed to have been lately gathered. Not far from this grew the bread-fruit tree, and a number of plantains.

Our adventurers were now near a quarter of a mile from the pinnace, when three of the natives ran out of the woods, about one hundred yards beyond them, shouting in the most violent manner. They instantly ran towards our countrymen, the first of the three throwing something out of his hand, which flew on one side of him, burning in the same manner as gunpowder, but making no noise, while the other two threw their lances. The English now fired; when the natives stopped, and cast another lance, on which the muskets were loaded with ball, and again fired.⁠—The poor Indians now ran off with expedition, having, most probably, been wounded in the unequal conflict. Captain Cook and his companions, unwilling farther to injure those who could not originally have intended them any harm, retreated hastily to the boat, while the men, that had been left in the care of her, made signals that more of the natives were advancing towards the coast; several of these were soon seen, and stood still, as if waiting for the main body of their companions. Captain Cook and the party having reached the boat, rowed a-breast of the natives, who by this time were assembled to the number of about eighty. Their stature was nearly the same with that of the inhabitants of New South Wales, but their colour was not quite so dark: but, like them, they wore their hair cropped short. During the survey that was taken of them, they continued letting off their fires, a few at a time, in a kind of regular platoons; they were discharged by means of a piece of stick, almost like a hollow cane, which being swung sideways, produced fire and smoke exactly like that occasioned by the firing of small arms. The crew on board the ship saw this strange phenomenon, and thought the natives had fire-arms. The gentlemen having satisfied their curiosity by attentively looking at these people, fired some musquets above their heads, the balls from which being heard to rattle among the trees, the natives deliberately retired. The lances which had been thrown soon after the gentlemen landed were made of a reed or bamboo cane, and the points were made of hard wood, barbed in several places; it is imagined, that these lances were discharged by means of a throwing stick, as they flew with great swiftness above sixty yards.

When this party returned to the ship, some of the officers entreated the Captain to send men on shore to cut down the cocoa-nut trees, in order to procure the nuts; but this, with equal wisdom and humanity, he refused; sensible that the poor Indians, who could ill brook even the landing of a small party, on their coast, would risk their lives, and of course sacrifice them, in defence of their property. The whole coast of this country is low-land, but cloathed with a richness of trees and herbage, which exceeds all description.

On Monday, the 3d of September, 1770, the ship got under sail, and early in the morning of the 6th passed two small islands, on the latter of which Captain Cook would have landed, but as they had then only ten fathom water, and as the ground was rocky and the wind blew fresh, he might have endangered the safety of the ship. They now sailed at a moderate rate, with various soundings, till three o’clock the next morning, after which they had no ground with one hundred and twenty fathom. Before noon they had sight of land, which was conjectured to be either the Arrou Islands, or Timor Laoet; but they are not accurately laid down in any of the charts hitherto published.

On the evening of the 9th they saw what had the appearance of land, and the next morning were convinced that the first land they had seen was Timor, and the last Timor Laoet. The ship stood off and on during the night, when a number of fires were seen on the island, and the next morning smoke was seen in several places, from whence it was conjectured that the place was well peopled. The land near the shore was covered with high trees, not unlike pines; farther back were cocoa-trees and mangroves: there were many salt-water creeks, and several spots of ground which appeared to have been cleared by art; and the whole country rose, by gradual slopes, into hills of a very considerable height.

As the land and sea breezes were now very slight, they continued in sight of the island for two days, when it was observed that the hills reached, in many places, quite to the sea coast, and where that was not the case, there were large and noble groves of the cocoa-nut tree, which ran about a mile up the country, at which distance great numbers of houses and plantations were seen: the plantations were surrounded with fences, and extended nearly to the summits of the most lofty hills, yet neither the natives nor cattle were seen on any of them, which was thought a very extraordinary circumstance. Fine groves of the fan-palm shaded the houses from the rays of the sun.

On the 16th they had sight of the little island called Rotte; and the same day saw the island Semau, at a distance to the southward of Timor. The island of Rotte is chiefly covered with brushy wood without leaves; but there are a number of fan-palm trees on it, growing near the sandy beaches; and the whole consists of alternate hills and vallies. The island of Semau is not so hilly as Timor, but resembles it greatly in other respects.

At ten o’clock this night a dull reddish light was seen in the air, many parts of which emitted rays of a brighter colour, which soon vanished, and were succeeded by others of the same kind. This phenomenon, which reached about ten degrees above the horizon, bore a considerable resemblance to the Aurora Borealis, only that the rays of light which it emitted had no tremulous motion. It was surveyed for two hours, during which time its brightness continued undiminished.

As the ship was now clear of all the islands which had been laid down in such maps as were on board, they made sail during the night, and were surprized the next morning at the sight of an island to the west south-west, which they flattered themselves was a new discovery. Before noon they had sight of houses, groves of cocoa-nut trees, and large flocks of sheep. This was a welcome sight to people whose health was declining for want of refreshments; and it was instantly resolved to attempt the purchase of what they stood so much in need of. The second Lieutenant was immediately dispatched in the pinnace, in search of a landing-place; and he took with him such things as it was thought might be acceptable to the natives.

During Mr. Gore’s absence, the people on board saw two men on horseback upon the hills, who frequently stopped to take a view of the vessel. The Lieutenant soon returned, with an account that he had entered a little cove, near which stood a few houses: that several men advanced, and invited him to land; and that they conversed together as well as they could by signs. He reported that these people were very like the Malays, both in person and dress; that they had no other arms but a knife, which each of them wore stuck in his girdle.

As the Lieutenant could not find any place in which the ship might come to an anchor, he was dispatched again with money and goods, to buy such necessaries as were immediately wanted for those who were sick. Dr. Solander attended the Lieutenant, and, during their absence, the ship stood on and off the shore. Soon after the boat had put off, two other horsemen were seen from the ship, one of whom had a laced hat on, and was dressed in a coat and waistcoat, of the fashion of Europe. These men rode about on shore, taking little notice of the boat, but regarding the ship with the utmost attention. As soon as the boat reached the shore, some other persons on horseback, and many on foot, hastened to the spot, and it was observed that some cocoa-nuts were put into the boat, from whence it was concluded, that a traffick had commenced with the natives. A signal being made from the boat, that the ship might anchor in a bay at some distance, she immediately bore away for it.

When the Lieutenant came on board, he reported that he could not purchase any cocoa-nuts, as the owner of them was absent, and that what he had brought were given him; in return for which he had presented the natives with some linen. The method by which he learnt that there was a harbour in the neighbourhood, was by the natives drawing a kind of rude map on the sand, in which the harbour, and a town near it were represented; it was likewise hinted to him that fruit, fowls, hogs, and sheep, might be there obtained in great abundance. He saw several of the principal inhabitants of the island, who wore chains of gold about their necks, and were dressed in fine linen. The word Portuguese being frequently repeated by the Indians, it was conjectured, that some natives of Portugal were on the island, and one of the boat’s crew being of that kingdom, he spoke to the islanders in his own language, but he soon found that they had only learnt a few words, of which they did not know the meaning. While the natives were endeavouring to represent the situation of the town near the harbour, one of them, in order to be more particular in directions, informed the English that they would see something, which he endeavoured to describe by placing his fingers across each other; and the Portuguese sailor took it for granted, that he could mean nothing but a cross. When the boat’s crew were on the point of returning to the ship, the gentleman who had been seen on horseback in the dress of Europe came down to the beach; but the Lieutenant did not think it proper to hold a conference with him, because he had left his commission on board the ship.

In the evening, when the ship had entered the bay to which they had been recommended, an Indian town was seen at a small distance; upon which a jack was hoisted on the fore-top-mast head: presently afterwards three guns were fired, and Dutch colours were hoisted in the town: the ship, however, held on her way, and came to an anchor at seven in the evening.

The colours being seen hoisted on the beach the next morning, the Captain concluded, that the Dutch had a settlement on the island: he therefore dispatched the second Lieutenant, to acquaint the Governor, or other principal resident, who they were, and that the ship had put in for necessary refreshments. The Lieutenant having landed, he was received by a kind of guard of something more than twenty Indians, armed with muskets, who having taken down the colours from the beach, proceeded without the least military order; and thus escorted him to the town where the colours had been hoisted the preceding evening.

The Lieutenant was now conducted to the Raja, or King of the island, to whom, by means of a Portuguese interpreter, he made known his business. The Raja said, he was ready to supply the ship with the necessary refreshments; but that he could not trade with any other people but the Dutch, with whom he was in alliance, without having first obtained their consent; but that he would make application to the Dutch Agent, who was the only white man among them. To this Agent, whose name was Lange, and who proved to be the person that was seen from the ship in the European dress, a letter was dispatched; and in a few hours he came to the town, behaved politely to the Lieutenant, and told him, he might buy what he thought proper of the inhabitants of the island.

This offer being freely made, and readily accepted, the Raja and Mr. Lange intimated their wishes to go on board the ship, and that two of the boat’s crew might be left as hostages for their safe return. The Lieutenant gratified both these requests, and took them on board just before dinner was served. It was thought that they would have sat down without ceremony; but, after some hesitation, the Raja intimated his doubts, whether, being a black, they would permit him to sit down with them. The politeness of the officers soon removed his scruples, and the greatest good humour and festivity prevailed among them. As Dr. Solander, and another gentleman on board, were tolerable proficients in Dutch, they acted as interpreters between Mr. Lange and the officers, while some of the sailors, who understood Portuguese, conversed with such of the Raja’s attendants as spoke that language. The chief part of the dinner was mutton, which the Raja having tasted, he begged an English sheep, and the only one which they had left was given him: he then asked for a dog, and Mr. Banks gave him his grey-hound; and a spying-glass was presented to him, on Mr. Lange’s intimating that it would be acceptable.

The visitors now told Captain Cook, that there was great plenty of fowls, hogs, sheep and buffaloes on the island, numbers of which should be conveyed to the sea shore on the following day, that he might purchase what was necessary for the recovery of the sick, and for sea stores. This welcome news gave great spirits to the company, and the bottle went so briskly round, that Mr. Lange and his companions became almost intoxicated: they had, however, the resolution to express a desire to depart, before they were quite drunk. When they came upon deck, the marines were under arms to receive them; and the Raja intimating, that he should be glad to see them exercise, the Captain gave orders that he should be indulged, and three rounds were fired: he was equally pleased and surprized at their manœuvres, and particularly charmed when they cocked their firelocks, exclaiming violently, “that all the locks made but one click.” This being ended, Messrs. Solander and Banks went ashore with the visitors, who were saluted at their departure with nine guns, which they returned with three cheers.

When they came to the town, the English gentlemen tasted their palm wine, which was sweet, and not unpleasant: it is made of the fresh juice of the tree, without being fermented. The houses of the natives consisted of nothing more than a floor of boards, over which was a roof of thatch, supported by pillars about four feet in height.

On the following day the Captain, attended by several gentlemen, went on shore to return the Raja’s visit; but their principal intention was, to buy the refreshments which had been mentioned the preceding day. When they landed, they were chagrined to find, that the cattle had not been driven down to the beach. They went on to the town, where they observed, that the house of assembly, and some few other houses which had been built by the Dutch East India Company, were distinguished from the houses of the natives by having a piece of wood, almost in the shape of cows horns, fixed at each end of the roof; and these they concluded were what the Portuguese sailor had imagined to be crosses, from the Indian having crossed his fingers when he was describing the town.

The Raja was at the house of assembly, surrounded by many of his principal subjects; and Mr. Lange also attended. Captain Cook having informed them, that he had loaded his boat with goods, which he wished to exchange for necessary refreshments, permission was given him to land his effects. The Captain now endeavoured to make an agreement for the hogs, sheep, and buffaloes, which were to be paid for in cash; but this business was no sooner hinted at than Mr. Lange took his leave, having first told the Captain, that he must make his agreement with the natives; and adding, that he had received a letter from the Governor of Concordia, in Timor, the contents of which should be disclosed at his return.

As they had now no fresh provisions on board, the gentlemen were unwilling to return to the ship before they had dined; they therefore requested the Raja’s permission to buy a small hog and some rice, and hoped he would order his people to dress the dinner. To this the Raja very obligingly replied, that if the gentlemen had stomachs to eat of Indian cookery, he would have the honour of considering them as his guests. A dinner being thus procured, the Captain sent off the boat to bring liquors from the ship.

Late in the afternoon the company sat down on mats, which had been spread for them on the floor, having been first conducted to a servant, who had a vessel made of the leaves of the fan-palm, containing water to wash their hands, in which the Indian assisted them. Having waited some time for the Raja, they enquired the reason of his absence, and were informed, that the person who gave the entertainment never partook of it; but that the Raja was ready to come and taste of what was provided, if the gentlemen entertained any idea that the meat was unwholesome: having assured the natives, that they did not harbour any such suspicion, they began their dinner, which consisted of pork and rice, very excellent of their kinds, served up in thirty-six dishes, and three earthen bowls filled with a kind of broth, in which the pork had been boiled: the spoons were formed of leaves, but were so small, that the hunger of the guests would scarcely allow them patience to use them.

When dinner was ended, the Captain invited the Raja to drink wine with him; but this he declined, saying, that the man who entertained company should never get drunk with his guests, and that the only certain way to avoid drunkenness, was to refrain from tasting the liquor. The gentlemen left the remains of their dinner to their servants and the boat’s crew, who not being able to eat it all, the Raja’s female servants, who came to take away the utensils, insisted that they should take with them all that remained.

When the bottle had circulated some time, Captain Cook began to enquire after the cattle that were promised to be driven down to the beach; when Mr. Lange informed him, that in the letter which he had received from the Governor of Concordia, instructions were given, that if the ship should touch at the island, and be in want of provisions, she should be supplied; but that he was not to permit her to remain longer than was absolutely necessary: that no presents were to be made to the natives of low rank, nor even left with their superiors to be divided among them after the ship had sailed: but, he added, that any trifling civilities received from the Indians, might be acknowledged by a present of beads, or other articles of very small value. It is a very probable conjecture, that the whole of this story was of Mr. Lange’s own manufacture, and solely calculated to draw all the presents of any value into his own pocket.

Soon after this the Captain was informed, that some sheep had been driven down to the beach; but had been conveyed away before the men could get money from the ship to pay for them; and that not a single hog or buffaloe had been driven down: but that a small number of fowls, and a quantity of the palm-syrup had been bought. Heartily vexed to be thus disappointed of the chief articles which were wanted, the Captain remonstrated with Mr. Lange, who told him, that if he and his officers had gone to the spot, they might have purchased any thing they pleased; but that the Indians imagined, the seamen would impose on them with counterfeit money.

This story was no more credited than the former; but not to lose more time in a case of such urgency, the Captain instantly repaired to the beach; but there were no cattle to be bought. During his absence Lange informed Mr. Banks, that the Indians were offended, that the seamen had not offered gold for what they had to sell, and that no other metal would purchase their commodities: but Mr. Banks, disdaining to hold farther conversation with a man who had been guilty of such repeated subterfuges, left him abruptly. Some hours before this, the Raja had assigned a much more probable reason for the cattle not being brought to the beach, saying, that the buffaloes were too far up the country to be driven thither in the time. In the evening the gentlemen returned to the ship, not a little displeased at their disappointment.

On the 20th the Captain and doctor Solander went again on shore, and while the latter proceeded to the town in search of Lange, the Captain staid on the beach, with a view to buy cattle. At this place was an old man, who had been distinguished by the name of the prime minister, because he appeared to be invested with considerable authority; and the Captain now presented him with a spying-glass, in order to make a friend of him. At present there was nothing brought for sale but a small buffaloe, for which five guineas were demanded. Tho’ the Captain knew that this was double its value, yet he bid three guineas, as he was willing to begin dealing at any rate: the person who had it to sell said, he could not take the money till the Raja had been informed what was offered; on which a man was sent to him, who soon came back with a message, that five guineas would be the lowest price: this the Captain refused to give; on which a second messenger was dispatched, who staying a long time, Captain Cook was anxiously expecting his return, when he saw Dr. Solander coming towards the beach, escorted by more than a hundred persons, some of whom had lances in their hands, and the rest were armed with muskets. When the Doctor arrived at the marketing-place, he informed the Captain, that Lange had interpreted to him a message from the Raja, the substance of which was, that the natives were averse to all traffick with the English, because they would not give above half the real worth of the things which were offered for sale; and that all trading whatever should be prohibited after that day.

A native of Timor, whose parents were Portuguese, came down with this party, and delivered to the Captain what was pretended to be the order of the Raja, and which was in substance the same as what Lange had told Dr. Solander; but it was afterwards discovered, that this man was a confederate of Lange’s, in the scheme of extortion. The English gentlemen had at the same time no doubt, but that the supposed order of the Raja was a contrivance of these men; and while they were debating how they should act in this critical conjuncture, anxious to bring the affair to a speedy issue, the Portuguese began to drive away such of the natives as had brought palm-syrup and fowls to sell, and others who were now bringing sheep and buffaloes to the market.

Just at this juncture Captain Cook happening to look at the old man who had been distinguished by the name of prime minister, imagined that he saw in his features a disapprobation of the present proceedings; and, willing to improve the advantage, he grasped the Indian’s hand, and gave him an old broad sword. This well-timed present produced all the good effects that could be wished: the prime minister was enraptured at so honourable a mark of distinction, and, brandishing his sword over the head of the impertinent Portuguese, he made both him, and a man who commanded the party, sit down behind him on the ground. The whole business was now accomplished: the natives, eager to supply whatever was wanted, brought their cattle in for sale, and the market was soon stocked. For the first two buffaloes Captain Cook gave ten guineas; but he afterwards purchased them by way of exchange, giving a musket for each; and at this rate he might have bought any number he thought proper. There seems to be no doubt but that Lange had a profit out of the first two that were sold, and that his reason for having said that the natives would take nothing but gold for their cattle, was, that he might the more easily share in the produce. Captain Cook purchased of the natives of this island some hundred gallons of palm-syrup, a small quantity of garlick, a large number of eggs, some limes and cocoa-nuts, thirty dozen of fowls, three hogs, six sheep, and nine buffaloes.

Having at length obtained these necessary refreshments, Captain Cook prepared for sailing from this place; but before we attend him on his voyage, it may be proper to give a description of the island, with an account of its produce, and the customs and manners of its inhabitants.

The island of Savu is situated in 10 degrees 35 minutes south latitude, and 237 degrees 30 minutes west longitude, and has hitherto been very little known, or very imperfectly described. Its length is between twenty and thirty miles; but its breadth could not be ascertained by Captain Cook, who saw only the north side of it. The harbour in which the ship lay was called Seba, from a district of the country so denominated; and there are two other bays on different parts of the island. At the time the Endeavour lay there it was near the end of the dry season, when it had not rained for almost seven months, nor was there a running stream of fresh water to be seen, and the natives were supplied only by small springs, situated at a distance up the country: yet even in this dry season the appearance of the island was enchanting beyond description. Near the coast the land is level, and well clothed with the palm, called Arecas, and cocoa-nut trees: farther off the ground rises in the most gradual ascent, and is covered with fan palm-trees even to the tops of the hills, so as to present a regular grove to the eye. The rains in this country cease in March or April, and fall again in October or November: and these rains produce abundance of indico, millet, and maize, which grow beneath the noblest trees in the universe.

Besides these articles, the island produces tobacco, cotton, betle, tamarinds, limes, oranges, mangoes, Guinea corn, rice, callevances, and water melons. A trifling quantity of cinnamon was seen, and some European herbs, such as garlic, fennel, cellery and marjoram: besides which, there are fruits of various kinds, and particularly the blimbi, which has a sharp taste, and is said to be a very fine pickle, but it is not eaten raw; its length is from three to four inches, it is nearly as thick as a man’s thumb, of an oval form, covered with a very thin skin of a light green, and contains a number of seeds ranged in the shape of a star.

Several buffaloes were seen on this island, which were almost as large as an ox; and from a pair of enormous horns of this animal which Mr. Banks saw, it was conjectured, that some of them were much larger; yet they did not weigh more than half as much as an ox of the same apparent size, having lost the greater part of their flesh through the late dry weather; the meat however was juicy, and of a delicate flavour. The horns of these animals bend backwards, they have no dewlaps, nor scarce any hair on their skins, and their ears are remarkably large. The other tame animals on the island are dogs, cats, pigeons, fowls, hogs, goats, sheep, asses and horses.

Few of the horses are above twelve hands high, yet they are full of mettle, and pace naturally in an expeditious manner: the natives ride them with a halter only. The hogs of this country, are fed on the hulks of rice, and palm-syrup mixed with water, and are remarkably fine and fat. The sheep are not unlike a goat, and are therefore called cabritos; their ears, which are long, hang down under their horns; their noses are arched, and their bodies are covered with hair. The fowls are of the game kind, and though they are rather large, the hen lays a very small egg. The sea-coast furnishes the inhabitants with turtle, but not in any great abundance.

The natives of the island of Savu are rather below the middle stature; their hair is black and strait, and persons of all ranks, as well those that are exposed to the weather, as those that are not, have one general complexion, which is the dark brown. The men are well formed and sprightly, and their features differ much from each other: the women, on the contrary, have all one set of features, and are very short and broad built.

The men have silver pincers hanging by strings round their necks, with which they pluck out the hair of their beards; and both men and women root out the hair that grows under the arms: the hair of the women’s heads is tied in a club behind, while that of the men is fastened by a comb to the top of the head: the men wear a kind of turban on the head, formed of muslin, cotton, or even silk handkerchiefs; but the heads of the women have no covering.

The dress of the men consists of two pieces of cotton cloth, one of which is bound round the middle, and the lower edge of it being drawn pretty tight between the legs, the upper edge is left loose, so as to form a kind of pocket, in which they carry their knives and other things: the other piece being passed under the former, on the back of the wearer, the ends of it are carried over the shoulders, and tucked into the pocket before. The women draw the upper edge of the piece round the waist tight, while the lower edge, dropping to the knees, makes a kind of petticoat: the other piece of cloth is fastened across the breast, and under the arms. This cloth, which is manufactured by the natives, is died blue while in the yarn; and, as it is of various shades, its look when it comes to be worn is very beautiful.

The ornaments of the natives of Savu are very numerous, and consist of rings, beads worn round the neck and on the wrists, and chains of plaited gold wire, likewise worn round the neck: these things were worn by both sexes; but the women had likewise girdles of beads round their waists, which helped to keep up the petticoat. Many of the boys wore brass wire passed several times round the arms, above the elbow: and some of the men, who were said to be the sons of the Rajas, wore rings of ivory, above an inch thick, and two inches broad, on the same part of the arm. One man possessed a silver-headed cane, supposed to have been a present from the Dutch East India Company, as their mark was engraven on the silver. The Raja, and the principal officer of his houshold, were commonly habited in night gowns of ordinary chintz; but one time, when Captain Cook waited on the Raja, he was dressed in a black stuff robe.

Most of the men had their names marked on their arms, and the women a black ornament just under the bend of the elbow, impressed so that it could not be rubbed out. On enquiry it was found, that this practice had been common among the Indians long before they were visited by any Europeans; and it was said, that the necks and breasts of the inhabitants of the adjacent islands were marked with circles.

It could not be certainly known how these black marks were impressed; but the following extract from M. Bossu’s account of some Indians who dwell on the banks of the Akanza, a river in North America, will afford a very probable conjecture how the operation is performed.⁠—“The Akanzas (says this writer) have adopted me, and, as a mark of my privilege, have imprinted the figure of a roe-buck upon my thigh, which was done in this manner: an Indian having burnt some straw, diluted the ashes with water, and, with this mixture, drew the figure upon my skin; he then retraced it by pricking the lines with needles, so as at every juncture just to draw the blood, and the blood mixing with the ashes of the straw, forms a figure which can never be effaced.”

The houses on the island of Savu are of different lengths, from twenty feet to four hundred, according to the rank of the inhabitant, and are fixed on posts about four or five feet from the ground. The houses are generally divided into three rooms of equal size, the center room being set apart for the use of the women; and sometimes smaller rooms are enclosed from the sides of the building, the whole of which is thatched with the leaves of the palm-tree.

The natives eat of all the tame animals which the island produces, but they prefer the hog to all the rest; next to hogs flesh they admire that of the horse, to which succeeds the Buffalo, and then the poultry; and they like the flesh of cats and dogs much better than that of goats and sheep. Fish is not eaten but by the poorer people, nor even by them, but when some business demands their attendance near the sea-coast; and then each man has a small casting net, which he wears tied round his body when he has not occasion to use it.

The fan-palm is the most remarkable, and most useful tree that grows on the island, its uses being equally great and various: soon after the buds put forth the natives cut them, and tying under them little baskets formed of the leaves of the tree, a liquor drops into them, which has the taste of a light wine, and is the common liquor of all the inhabitants. The men climb the trees twice a day to bring down this liquor; but as a great deal more is thus obtained than can be consumed by drinking, a part of the remainder is made into coarse sugar, very excellent of its kind; and the rest is boiled in earthen pots, till it is reduced to a syrup, resembling treacle, but of a much finer flavour; and with this syrup the natives fatten their hogs and dogs. The leaves of the tree are applied to the various uses of making tobacco pipes, umbrellas, cups, baskets, and the thatching of houses. The fruit of this tree is nearly of the size of a full grown turnip; but the natives are not fond of it, nor do they suffer much of it to come to perfection, as they wound the blossoms for the sake of the liquor that distils from them; the kernels of the fruit must be eaten before it is ripe, otherwise they are so hard, that the teeth will not penetrate them.

As wood for firing is very scarce on the island, the natives, by the following method, make a very little of it answer the ends of cookery and distillation. A hollow is dug under ground, in a direct line, about two yards long, with a hole at each end, one of which is large and the other small; the fire is put in at the largest hole, while the smaller one serves for a draught. Circular holes are made through the earth, which covers this cavity; and on these holes are set earthen pots, which being large in the middle, and smaller towards the bottom, the fire acts upon a considerable part of their surface. These pots contain, most commonly, about eight or nine gallons each, and they are kept continually boiling, with a very trifling quantity of fuel, such as a palm-leaf, or a dry stalk; in this manner all their victuals are boiled, as well as their syrup and sugar.

Both the men and women chew betle and areca, mixed with a sort of lime, composed of shells and coral stones; and as they frequently add tobacco to the other ingredients, and acquire this disgustful practice almost in their infancy, there is not a sweet breath, or a sound set of teeth in the whole island. They sometimes smoke tobacco, and the women, particularly, swallow the smoke. Their pipes are made of the palm-leaf, about the size of a goose quill, and half a foot long, in one end of which they put the tobacco designed for smoking.

The island consists of five divisions, each of which has a Raja, or chief Governor, of its own. These divisions are called Timo, Massara, Regeeua, Laai, and Seba. It was on this last division that our English adventurers went on shore: the Raja of which was between thirty and forty years of age, and remarkable for his corpulency. He governs his people with the most absolute authority, but takes on him very little of the parade, or pomp of royalty. The prime minister, who has been heretofore mentioned, appeared to be invested with great power, and almost wholly to direct the actions of the Raja; yet, such were the abilities and integrity of this man, that the people universally adored him. When any dispute happens among the natives, it is instantly settled by the Raja and his counsellors, in the most equitable and satisfactory manner.

The history of this island depends chiefly on the authority of Mr. Lange, the Dutch factor, who informed Captain Cook, that it was able to raise seven thousand three hundred fighting men, on the shortest notice. These are armed with lances, spears, muskets, targets, and pole-axes, which last are not unlike a wood-bill, only that they are much heavier, and have strait edges. The natives are so expert in the use of their lances, that they will throw them with such force and exactness, as to pierce a man through the heart at the distance of sixty or seventy yards. Notwithstanding this skill and disposition for war, it is said, that the Rajas have lived in the most perfect harmony for several ages.

While Captain Cook was on the island he saw a great gun before the town-house, and some swivels and pateraroes; but the great gun, which was almost consumed by rust, lay with the touch-hole to the ground, and the swivels and pateraroes were not in their carriages. In the town-house were a number of spears and targets, of as many different sizes as there were weapons; and with these the natives were armed when they came down with Dr. Solander, with a view to influence the market. The insides of the muskets were almost destroyed by rust, though their outsides were kept clean and bright: the men had very little, if any, powder or ball in their cartridge-boxes; but a piece of paper was put into each hole, as if they had been properly furnished. It has been already mentioned, that they marched in the most irregular manner; and each man brought with him a little tobacco, a fowl, or some other trifle, for sale.

The inhabitants of Savu are divided into five ranks; the Rajas, the land-owners, manufacturers, labourers, and slaves. The land-owners are respected in proportion to the extent of their lands, and the number of their slaves, which last are bought and sold with the estates to which they belong; but when a slave is bought separately, a fat hog is the price of the purchase. Though a man may sell his slave in this manner, or convey him with his lands, yet his power over him extends no farther, for he must not even strike him without the Raja’s permission. The estates of these land-owners are of very different extent; for some of them possess not above five slaves, and some five hundred. When a man of rank goes abroad, one of his slaves follows him, with a silver hilted sword or hanger, ornamented with horse hair tassels; while another is furnished with a little bag, containing tobacco, betle, areca, and lime; and even the Rajas themselves take no farther state upon them.

The natives of Savu entertain a veneration for antiquity, superior, perhaps, to that of any other people in the world. Their principal boast is a long line of venerable ancestors: the houses that have been well tenanted for successive generations are held in the highest esteem; and even the stones, which are worn smooth by having been sat upon for ages, become valuable from that very circumstance: the man whose progenitors have bequeathed him any of these stones, or whose opulence has enabled him to purchase them, causes them to be ranged round his habitation, for his servants and slaves to sit upon.

In the chief town of each district the Raja causes a huge stone to be set up, as a monument of his reign. Thirteen such stones were seen in the province of Seba, and the remains of many others, that have suffered greatly by the wasting hand of time. These stones are all placed on the top of a hill, and some of them are so enormously large, that it is impossible to conceive by what contrivance they could have been placed in such a situation, nor could any information in this respect be obtained from the natives. From these monuments it is evident, that the island has been regularly governed for a series of ages past.

On the death of a Raja, proclamation is made that all his subjects shall hold a solemn festival; on which they proceed to the hill where these stones are erected, and feast for several weeks or months, killing every animal that can be found, to furnish out the treat, which is daily served upon the monumental stones. When the whole stock is exhausted, they are compelled to a severe fast; and when it happens that the feast ends in the dry season, when they cannot get vegetables to eat, they have no other subsistance than the palm syrup and water, till the few animals that escape the general massacre have bred a sufficient number for a fresh supply; except indeed that the adjacent districts may afford some relief. The natives of Savu have an instrument with which they clear the cotton of its seeds, which is only about seven inches in height, and fourteen in length; but is constructed on common mechanical principles. They have likewise a machine, with which they spin by hand, in the same manner as the women of England did, before the use of spinning-wheels was known. The yarn they make is dyed as before-mentioned, and they were once observed to be dying some girdles for the women, of a deep red colour.

The natives in general are robust and healthy, and had the appearance of being long-lived. The small-pox has found its way to this island, and is as much dreaded as the pestilence: when this disorder attacks any person, he is carried to some spot at a great distance from any house, where his food is conveyed to him by means of a long stick, for no one will venture very near the invalid, who is thus left to take his chance of life or death.

The island of Savu having been visited by the Portuguese almost at their first sailing into this part of the world, they established a settlement upon it; but in a little time they were succeeded by the Dutch, who, though they did not formally possess themselves of the island, sent a number of trading vessels to establish a commerce with the natives. It is thought that the Dutch purchases are chiefly confined to provisions for the supply of the Spice Islands, the inhabitants of which, cultivating almost every spot of ground for the spice trade, breed but a small number of cattle. A few years ago the Dutch East India Company made an agreement with the several Rajas of the island, by which it was covenanted, that a quantity of rice, maize, and calevances should be annually furnished to the Dutch, who, in return, supply the Rajas with arrack, cutlery wares, linen, silk, and some other things. Small vessels, each of which is manned by ten Indians, are sent from Timor, to bring away the maize and calevances, and a ship which brings the articles which are furnished by the Dutch, receives the rice on board once a year: and there being three bays on the coast, this vessel anchors in each of them in its turn. The Rajas accept the Dutch articles of commerce as a present; and they and their chief attendants drink incessantly of the arrack till it is all gone. In the agreement abovementioned, the Rajas stipulated, that a Dutch resident should be constantly on the island, to observe that their part of the contract was fulfilled.

The Dutch having thus concluded the treaty, sent Mr. Lange to act as their resident, and a kind of assistant to him, whose father was a Portuguese, and his mother a native of Timor, with one Frederick Craig, whose father was a Dutchman, and his mother an Indian. Once every two months Lange is attended by fifty slaves on horse-back, and in this state visits each of the Rajas, and, if the crops are ripe, orders vessels to convey them immediately to Timor, so that they are not even housed on the island. It is a part of Lange’s business to persuade the land-owners to plant, if he sees that there has been any neglect on their part. He constantly takes with him a quantity of arrack, by the help of which he does not fail of making advantageous bargains with the Rajas.

Lange had been on this island ten years, during all which time he had not seen a white person, except those who came annually in the Dutch ship to carry off the rice. He is married to an Indian woman, a native of the island of Timor, and he lives in the same manner as the inhabitants of Savu, whose language he speaks better than any other; like them too he sits on the ground and chews betle, and has so perfectly adopted their manners, that he is an absolute Indian, except in dress and complexion.

Mr. Craig is employed in teaching the children to write and read, and instructing them in the principles of Christianity. The new testament, a catechism, and some other small books of divinity, have been printed in the language of Savu, and the adjacent islands, at the expence of the Dutch. Mr. Craig said, there were six hundred Christians in the township of Seba only; yet there is neither a church nor a clergyman throughout the island.

The religion of such of the natives of Savu as have not embraced Christianity, is a singular sort of Paganism, as every man makes choice of his own God, and worships him according to his own fancy; so that the variety of Deities, and the methods of adoring them, are scarcely fewer than the number of inhabitants. The morality of these people, however, is of the purest kind. A robbery is scarce ever committed, and a murder is never perpetrated. When any disputes arise between the natives, they instantly submit the point in debate to the decision of the Raja, and rest perfectly satisfied with his determination. No man is permitted to marry more than one wife; yet a violation of the marriage bed, or even the crime of simple fornication, is almost wholly unknown among them. Happy people! the purity of whose morals renders them fit objects of the envy and emulation of the Christian world.

Of the islands in the neighbourhood of Savu, the principal is Timor, which is annually visited by the Dutch residents on the other islands, in order to make up their accounts. Some of the towns on the north side of Timor are in the hands of the Portuguese; but the Dutch possess the far greater proportion of the island, on which they have built a fort, and erected several store-houses.

There are three small islands, called the Solars, which produce a great abundance of the various necessaries of life, that are carried in small vessels to the Dutch settlement on the island of Timor: these islands are low and flat, and one of them has a commodious harbour.

Westward from the Solars lies the little island of Ende, which is yet in the possession of the Portuguese, who have built a considerable town, called Larntuca, on the north east point of it; and close to the town is an harbour where ships may ride in safety.

The island of Rotte has a Dutch resident on it, whose business is similar to that of Mr. Lange on the island of Savu: Rotte produces, besides such things as are common to the other islands, a considerable quantity of sugar, which is now made to a great degree of perfection.

There is likewise a small island lying to the westward of Savu, the chief produce of which is areca-nuts, of which the Dutch receive, in exchange for European commodities, as large a quantity every year as will load two vessels.

A French ship was wrecked on the coast of Timor, about two years before the Endeavour was in these seas. She had been lodged on the rock several days, when the wind tore her to pieces in an instant, and the Captain, with the greater number of the seamen, were drowned; but a Lieutenant and about eighty men having reached the shore, travelled across the country of Concordia, where their immediate necessities were relieved, after which they returned to the wreck, in company with some Dutch and Indians, who assisted them in recovering all their chests of bullion, some of their guns, and other effects: which being done, they returned to Concordia, where they remained several weeks; but, in this interval, death made such havock among them, that not above half their number remained to be sent to their native country, which was done as soon as a vessel could be fitted out for that purpose.

To close the account of the island of Savu, it now only remains to give the following specimen of the language of its inhabitants.

Specimen of the language of the inhabitants of the island of Savu.

Momonne, A man.

Monama, An old man.

Monecopai, A boy.

Anawuneekee, A child.

Madda, The eyes.

Otaile, The temples.

Sivanga, The nose.

Tangarei, The forehead.

Cavarànga, The cheeks.

Vaio, The tongue.

Lacoco, The neck.

Dùloo, The belly.

Pagàvee, The chin.

Càmaccoò, The arms.

Wùlalea, The hand.

Roòtoo, The knees.

Baibo, The legs.

Duneeala, The feet.

Row, Hair.

Gnaca, A dog.

Vavee, A hog.

Doomba, A sheep.

Maio, A cat.

Doleela, A bird.

Dulloo, An egg.

Nudoo, A fish.

Unjoo, A turtle.

Vooe, Fruit.

Nai, Tobacco.

Yirroo, Oranges.

Arre, Rice.

Lodo, The sun.

Wurroo, The moon.

Booro, Bread.

Cova, A coat.

Capa, A ship.

Sooree, Red.

Bulla, Black.

Sao-lodo, The morning.

Munda-lodo, The evening.

O, Yes.

Gnaa, To eat.

Neenawei, To drink.

Ta eaco, To walk.

Ta rai, To run.

Ta mudje, To talk.

Ta bunge, To sneeze.

Isse, or usse, One.

Rooe, Two.

Tulloo, Three.

Uppa, Four.

Lumee, Five.

Unna, Six.

Petoo, Seven.

Aroo, Eight.

Saio, Nine.

Singooroo, Ten.

Singooroo isse, Eleven.

The Endeavour sailed from the island of Savu on the 21st of September 1770, and bent her course westward. In the afternoon of this day a little flat island was discovered in 10 degrees 47 minutes south latitude, and 238 degrees 28 minutes west longitude, which has not been laid down in any of the charts hitherto published.

When the ship got clear of the several islands before-mentioned, there was a continual swell of the sea from the south, which Captain Cook imputed to the position of the coast of New South Wales, imagining it to have determined the sea in that direction.

On the 28th they steered north-west the whole day, in order to get sight of the land of Java; and on the 30th the Captain received from most of the officers and seamen their respective journals of the voyage, regarding which he advised them to observe the most profound secrecy: and he likewise possessed himself of the log-book. In the night following there was a storm of thunder and lightning, when the land of Java was seen to the eastward by the brightness of the lightning. In the morning they had sight of the island of Cracatoa, which is singular for the height of its peak.

Early in the morning of the 2d of October, when the ship was in fifteen fathom water, she was close in with the coast of Java, along which they now steered. As their faithful Indian friend Tupia was at this time extremely ill, the Captain dispatched a boat to the shore, to endeavour to bring him some refreshing fruits, and likewise to procure grass for the buffaloes. As soon as the boat landed, the inhabitants assisted the seamen in cutting grass for the cattle, and in gathering a bunch of plantains and a few cocoa-nuts, for which they received a shilling, and which were brought off to the ship. The land of Java had a delightful appearance, being every where well covered with trees.

This day they had sight of two Dutch vessels, and an officer being dispatched to one of them, to learn any interesting intelligence, he brought word back, that the Swallow had reached the English channel in safety, that disputes were carried to great lengths at home, in regard to the ministers, and in America, on account of taxes; and that the Russians, Poles and Turks, were embroiled in a war. The officer said, that the vessels were Dutch East Indiamen, bound from Batavia, one of them to the coast of Malabar, and the other to the island of Ceylon: he said likewise, that there was a kind of packet-boat, which he had been told, was appointed to carry letters from such Dutch ships as came thither to Batavia; but Captain Cook conjectured, that her business was to examine such ships as should pass the Streight.

The ship had now been some hours at anchor; but a light breeze springing up in the evening, they got under sail, and continued to proceed at a slow rate during the night. On the 3d, in the morning, the Dutch packet-boat was observed sailing after the Endeavour; but she bore away again on the shifting of the wind.

This changing of the wind obliging the Endeavour to come to an anchor, the master of the packet-boat came along-side of her, in one of the boats belonging to the country, bringing with him rice-birds, monkies, parrots, parroquets, ducks, fowls, turtle, and other things, with an intention to sell them; but as the stock which had been laid in at Savu was not yet consumed, and he had fixed very high prices on his commodities, very few articles were purchased: the Captain, however, bought twenty or thirty fowls, and a small turtle.

The master of the packet-boat had brought with him two books, in one of which he wrote down the Captain’s name, and that of the vessel, to be sent to the Governor and Council of the Indies; and in the other book he requested that some of the gentlemen on board would likewise write down the name of the vessel, with that of the Captain; where she came from, to what port she was bound, and as many particulars respecting any person on board, as themselves might think necessary, to satisfy the curiosity of any of their friends who might afterwards enquire for them. In this book many Portuguese vessels, and some of other countries had made entries of the same kind; but a Lieutenant on board the Endeavour having written the ship’s name, added only the words, “from Europe;” yet of this the master of the packet took no other notice, than by saying he was content with whatever they were pleased to write, which was intended solely for the information of their friends.

They now weighed the anchor, and made repeated attempts to sail; but the wind not blowing so as to enable the vessel to stem the current, she lay to till the morning of the 5th, when a Dutch officer came along-side the ship, and sent a printed paper to the Captain, in exceeding bad English; the contents of which were to enquire,

1st, The ship’s name, and to what nation she belonged?

2d, Whether she came from Europe, or any other place?

3d, What place she had last departed from?

4th, To what place she was bound?

5th, How many ships belonging to the Dutch Company had been seen at the last coast the ship had left, and their names?

6th, If one or more of these ships had been in company with the Endeavour, and was or were sailed for that, or any other place?

7th, If, during the voyage, any thing remarkable had happened, or been seen?

8th, If any ships had been seen and hailed at sea, or in the streight of Sunda, and what they were?

9th, If they had brought any other news worthy of attention, from the place whence the ship took her last departure; or if any thing else had happened during the voyage, that was worth communicating.

These questions were undersigned, “Batavia, in the castle. By order of the Governor General, and the Counsellors of India, J. Brander Bungl, Sec.”

It was observed, that the officer had many other papers of the same kind, in French, Dutch, and other languages. Captain Cook did not think proper to answer any of the above questions, except the first and the fourth. When the Dutchman observed this, he said, that answers to the other questions were not material; yet he seemed to contradict what he had just advanced, by saying, that he must dispatch the paper to Batavia, and that it would reach that place by noon on the following day. This incident is particularly recorded, because the examining the ships which sail through the streight, is said to be a piece of Dutch policy of very modern date.

As soon as the Dutch officer was departed, the anchor was weighed; but the ship was obliged to come to an anchor again in about four hours, for want of wind to enable her properly to stem the current. A breeze soon springing up, the vessel held on her way till the following morning, when she was again obliged to be brought to an anchor, owing to the rapidity of the current. This day and the next they weighed the anchor, and brought to several times. On the 8th they weighed, and stood clear of a large ledge of rocks, which they had been near running fowl of the preceding day; but before noon this day they were once more obliged to anchor near a little island, which was not laid down in any chart that they had on board. It is one of those that bear the name of the Milles isles; and Messrs Solander and Banks having landed upon it, collected a few plants, and shot a bat which was a yard long, being measured from the extreme points of the wings; they also killed a few plovers, in all respects like the English golden plover. On this island, the breadth of which does not exceed one hundred yards, and the length five hundred, they found a house, and a little spot of cultivated ground, and on it grew the Palma Christi, from which the West Indians make the castor oil.

In a little time after the gentlemen came back to the snip, some Malays came along-side, in a boat, bringing with them some pumpkins, dried fish, and turtle for sale: one of the turtles, which weighed near one hundred and fifty pounds, they sold for a dollar, and seemed to expect the same piece of money for their pumpkins; but it being hinted to them that a dollar was too much, they desired that one might be cut, and a piece of it given to them: but this not being complied with, they at length sold six and twenty pumpkins for a Portuguese petacka. When they departed they intimated their wishes, that this transaction might not be mentioned at Batavia.

The ship now made but slow way till night, when the land breeze springing up, they sailed to the east south-east, and on the following day, by the assistance of the sea breeze, they came to an anchor in the road of Batavia. At this place they found a number of large Dutch vessels, the Harcourt East Indiaman from England, which had lost her passage to China, and two ships belonging to the private trade of our India Company.

The Endeavour had no sooner anchored, than a ship was observed, with a broad pendant flying, from which a boat was dispatched to demand the name of the vessel, with that of the Commander, &c. To these enquiries Captain Cook gave such answers as he thought proper, and the officer who commanded the boat departed. This gentleman and the crew that attended him were so worn down by the unhealthiness of the climate, that they appeared but as the shadows of men; which the Captain deemed a sad presage of the havock which death would soon make among his crew; yet at present there was not one invalid on board, except the Indian Tupia: the English tars, whose want of foresight and defiance of danger is notorious, seemed not to entertain the least idea that even sickness would attack a set of men so hardened as they were by different climates; but alas! they had very little idea of the fatal contagion which impregnates the air of Batavia.

The Captain now dispatched an officer to the Governor of the town, to apologize for the Endeavour’s not saluting; for he had but three guns proper for the purpose, except swivels, and he was apprehensive that they would not be heard.

The ship was at this time so leaky, that she made about nine inches water an hour, on the average; part of her false keel was gone; one of her pumps was totally useless, and the rest so very much decayed, that they could not last long. The officers and seamen concurring in opinion, that the ship could not safely put to sea again in this condition, the Captain resolved to solicit permission to heave her down; but as he had learnt that this must be done in writing, he drew up a petition, and had it translated into Dutch.

On Wednesday the 10th of October 1770, the Captain and the rest of the gentlemen went on shore, and applied to the only English gentleman then resident at Batavia: this gentleman, whose name was Leith, received his countrymen in the politest manner, and entertained them at dinner with great hospitality. Mr. Leith informed them, that a public hotel was kept in the town, by order of the Dutch government, at which place merchants and other strangers were obliged to lodge, and that the landlord of the hotel was bound to find them warehouses for their goods, on the condition of his receiving ten shillings on every hundred pounds of their value; but that as the Endeavour was a King’s ship, her officers, and the other gentlemen, might reside where they thought proper, only asking leave of the Governor, whose permission would be instantly obtained. Mr. Leith added, that they might live cheaper in this way than at the hotel, if they had any person who spoke the Malay tongue, on whom they could rely in the purchase of their provisions: but as there was no such person among the whole ship’s crew, the gentlemen immediately bespoke beds at the hotel.

In the afternoon Captain Cook attended the Governor General, who received him politely, and told him to wait on the Council the next morning, when his petition should be laid before them, and every thing he solicited would be readily granted.

Late in the evening of this day there happened a most terrible storm of thunder and lightning, accompanied with very heavy rain. In this storm the main-mast of a Dutch East Indiaman was split and carried away by the deck; and the main-top-mast and top-gallant-mast were torn to pieces; it is supposed, that the lightning was attracted by an iron spindle at the main-top-gallant-mast-head. The Endeavour, which was at a small distance from the Dutch ship, escaped without damage, owing, in Captain Cook’s opinion, to an electrical chain, which conducted the lightning over the side of the vessel: and he recommends chains of the same kind to be taken on board all ships, to whatever part of the globe they may be bound. A centinel on board the Endeavour, who was charging his musket at the time of the storm, had it shaken out of his hand, and the rammer-rod was broken in pieces: the electrical chain looked like a stream of fire, and the ship sustained a very violent shock.

On Tuesday the 11th Captain Cook waited on the gentlemen of the Council, who informed him, that all his requests should be complied with. In the interim, the other gentlemen made a contract with the master of the hotel, to furnish them and their friends with as much tea, coffee, punch and tobacco, as they might have occasion for, and to keep them a separate table, for nine shillings a day, English money; but on the condition that every person who should visit them, should pay at the rate of four shillings and six pence for his dinner, and the same sum for his supper and bed, if he chose to sleep at the hotel: they were likewise to pay for every servant that attended them fifteen pence a day.

It was soon discovered, that they had been vilely imposed on; for these charges were above twice as much as would have been demanded at a private house. They appeared to live elegantly, but at the same time were but ill supplied. Their dinner consisted of fifteen dishes, all served up at once; and their supper of thirteen; but of these, nine or ten were of the most ordinary, because the cheapest, poultry, that could be purchased; and even some of these dishes were observed to be served up four times successively: a duck, which was hot at dinner, brought cold in the evening; the next day it appeared in the form of a fricasee, and was converted to forced meat at night. Our countrymen, however, only fared as others had done before them: it was the constant custom of the conscientious master of the hotel, to treat all his guests in the same manner, when they first took up their residence at his house: if they took no notice of it, all was well, for the landlord had the better customers of them; if they remonstrated against such treatment, the table was better and better supplied from time to time, till, in the end, they had no reason to complain.

The gentlemen having found fault with their fare, were afterwards supplied in a better manner; but Mr. Banks, not approving the conduct of the master of the hotel, he hired lodgings for himself and his attendants at the adjoining house, for which he agreed to pay five and forty shillings a month: but here Mr. Banks was disappointed in the hope he had formed of living retired; for scarce a Dutchman had occasion to pass by the house, but he ran in without ceremony, to enquire what was to be sold; for it is a very unusual thing at Batavia, for strangers who are in a private capacity not to be furnished with some articles of traffick. In this house no person was permitted to sleep, as a guest of Mr. Banks, without his bed being separately paid for. It is the universal custom here to hire a carriage; and Mr. Banks engaged two, for which he paid eighteen shillings a day: these carriages are open chaises, in which two persons sit commodiously, and are driven by a man sitting on a kind of coach-box.

Their Indian friend Tupia had been till this time on board very dangerously ill, yet persisted to refuse every medicine that was offered him: Mr. Banks now sent for him to his house, in the hope that he might recover his health. While he was in the ship, and even after he was put into the boat, he was indisposed, and low spirited, in the utmost degree; but the moment he came into the town, his whole frame appeared as if re-animated. The houses, the carriages, the people, and many other objects, were totally new to him and astonishment took possession of his features at sights so wonderful: but if Tupia was astonished at the scene, his boy, Tayota, was perfectly enraptured, dancing along the streets in an extacy of joy, and examining the several objects as they presented themselves, with the most earnest inquisitiveness and curiosity.

Of all the circumstances which engaged the attention of Tupia, nothing struck him so much as the vast variety of dresses worn by the inhabitants of Batavia: he enquired the reason of what appeared so very extraordinary in his eyes, and being informed that the people were of a variety of nations, and that all were dressed according to the mode of their own country, he requested permission to follow the fashion: this request being readily complied with, a person was dispatched to the ship for some South Sea cloth, with which he soon clothed himself in the dress of the inhabitants of Otaheite. The people of Batavia, who had seen an Indian, brought thither in M. Bougainville’s ship, named Otourou, mistook Tupia for that man, and frequently enquired if he was not the same.

As the necessary repairs of the ship were to be made at Ourust, Captain Cook obtained an order to the superintendant of that island to receive her; and he wrote to the Secretary of the Admiralty, an account of the safe arrival of the Endeavour in the road of Batavia, and dispatched his letter by a Dutch ship that was bound to Europe.

Captain Cook now applied to several persons to advance him money sufficient to defray the expence of repairing the ship; but not one could be found in the whole town who had the requisite sum in his possession, or, if he had, was willing to advance it: he therefore made application to the Governor, who issued his orders, that he should be supplied out of the treasury of the Dutch East India Company.

Early in the morning of the 18th of October 1770, the ship got under sail, and proceeded to Ourust; and, in a day or two, the crew began to take out her stores, which were deposited in the wharf on Cooper’s Island; but this business was rendered unavoidably tedious, by several Dutch ships being at the same wharf, taking in their ladings of pepper.

After little more than a week spent at Batavia, the ill effects of the climate began to be severely felt. Dr. Solander and Mr. Banks were indisposed with fevers; Mr. Banks’s two servants were exceedingly ill; the Indian boy, Tayota, had an inflammation on his lungs; and Tupia was so bad, that his life was despaired of. Their indisposition was attributed partly to the heat of the climate, and partly to the swampy situation of the town, and the stench of the dirty canals with which it abounds.

By the 26th of the month, very few of the crew were well enough to do duty; and on this day a tent was erected for their reception. Tupia now requested to be conveyed to the ship, in the hope of breathing a purer air than in the town; but his request could not be granted, as she was unrigged, and preparations were making to lay her down, in order that she might undergo a thorough repair: on the 28th, however, Mr. Banks attended Tupia to Cooper’s Island, where a tent was pitched for him, in such a situation, where he was alternately refreshed by the land and sea breezes; and the poor creature was extremely thankful that he was so agreeably lodged. By this time the Surgeon was so ill, that he could not leave his bed; Mr. Banks’s fever was greatly encreased, and Dr. Solander grew worse every day.

The ship was at length laid down on the 5th of November, on which day died Mr. Monkhouse, the Surgeon, whose loss was the more severely felt, as he was a man of skill in his profession, and fell a sacrifice to the pestiferous air of the country, at a time when his abilities were most wanted. Dr. Solander, though extremely ill, had strength sufficient to see his remains committed to the ground, but Mr. Banks was unable even to pay this last sad duty to a worthy man.

Death now advanced with hasty strides among our adventrous countrymen, who were equally unable to resist his power, or shun his embraces. Several Malay servants were engaged, to wait on those who were ill; but these people were so remiss in their duty, that it was no uncommon thing for the sick man to leave his bed in search of his attendant. The Indian boy, Tayota, paid the debt of Nature on the 9th of this month, and Tupia, whose tender affection for the youth can be equalled only by that of a parent for a favourite child, was so shocked at the loss, that it was evident he could not long survive him.

By this time the ship’s bottom having been carefully surveyed, our countrymen had ample reason to be grateful to that Providence, by which they had been preserved during a passage of several hundred miles, through the most dangerous seas on the face of the globe: for the sheathing in several places was torn from the vessel, the false keel was in a great measure gone, the main keel was damaged in many parts, several of the planks had received great injury, and a part of three of them was thinner than the sole of a shoe!

Messrs. Solander and Banks were now so worn down by their disorders, that the Physician, who attended them, recommended the country air, as the only thing that could possibly restore them to the wishes of their friends. In consequence of this advice, they hired a country-house of the master of the hotel, who engaged to supply them with slaves, and to furnish their table; but as they had sufficiently experienced the worthlessness of these slaves, they bought two Malay women, who soon became excellent nurses, from that tenderness of Nature which does so much honour to the sex. While these gentlemen were taking measures for the recovery of their health, poor Tupia fell a victim to the ravages of his disorder, and to his grief for the deceased Tayota. When Tayota was first seized with the fatal disorder, he seemed sensible of his approaching end, and frequently said to those that were about him, Tyau mate see, “My friends, I am dying:” he was very tractable, and took any medicines that were offered to him; they were both buried in the island of Edam.

Captain Cook bestows great encomiums on the officers and workmen of the Marine Yard at Ourust, by whose skill and diligence the bottom of the ship was perfectly repaired by the 14th of the month; and he warmly recommends the heaving down with two masts, instead of one, which, he says, is undoubtedly the more expeditious, as well as the safer method.

By this time not above ten men, out of the whole ship’s crew, were able to do duty, and these were employed in getting the water and stores aboard, and in putting up the rigging: the water was purchased at Batavia, at the rate of one hundred and fifty gallons for six shillings and eight pence.

Captain Cook was now taken ill, and Mr. Sporing and a sailor, who attended Messrs. Banks and Solander at their country-house, were attacked with intermitting fevers; but those two gentlemen grew something better, though their recovery was very slow. Their house was situated on the borders of a rivulet, which, of course, assisted the circulation of the air; and it was likewise open to the sea breeze.

In the night of the 25th there fell such a shower of rain, for the space of four hours, as even our voyagers had scarce ever remembered. The water poured through every part of Mr. Banks’s house; and the lower apartments admitted a stream sufficient to have turned a mill. As this gentleman was now greatly restored in health, he went to Batavia the following day, and was surprized to see, that the inhabitants had hung out their bedding to dry. The westerly monsoon set in about the 26th of this month: it blows in the day-time from the north, or north-west, and from the south-west during the night: previous to this, there had been violent thunder, and hard showers of rain for several nights.

The musquitos and gnats, whose company had been sufficiently disagreeable in the dry weather, now began to swarm in immense numbers, rising from the puddles of water like bees from a hive: they were extremely troublesome during the night, but the pain arising from their sting, though very severe, seldom lasted more than half an hour; and in the day-time they seldom made their attacks. The frogs kept a perpetual croaking in the ditches; a certain sign that the wet season was commenced, and that daily rain might be expected.

The ship being repaired, the sick people being received on board her, and the greater part of her water and stores taken in, she sailed from Ourust on the 8th of December, and anchored in the road of Batavia. Twelve days were employed in receiving the remainder of her provisions, water, and other necessaries; though this business would have been done in much less time, but that some of the crew died, and the majority of the survivors were so ill, as to be unable to give their assistance.

On the 24th Captain Cook took leave of the Governor, and some other gentlemen, who had distinguished themselves by the civilities they shewed him: but at this juncture an incident occurred, that might have produced consequences by no means desirable. A sailor belonging to one of the Dutch snips in the road of Batavia, deserted from that vessel, and entered himself on board the Endeavour. The Captain of the Dutch ship having made application to the Governor, claiming the delinquent as a subject of the States General, the Governor issued his order for the restoration of the man: Captain Cook had but just taken a formal leave of the Governor when this order was delivered to him; and he said, that the man should be given up, if it appeared that he was a Dutchman. As the Captain was at this time on shore, and did not intend going on board till the following day, he gave the Dutch officer a note to the Lieutenant, who commanded on board the Endeavour, to deliver the deserter on the condition above-mentioned. On the following day the Dutchman waited on Captain Cook, informing him, that the Lieutenant had absolutely refused to give up the seaman; saying, that he was an Irishman, and of course a subject of his Britannick Majesty. Captain Cook applauded the conduct of his officer, and added, that it could not be expected, that he should deliver up an English subject. The Dutch officer then said, he was authorized, by the Governor, to demand the fugitive as a Danish subject, adding, that his name was entered in the ship’s books, as having been born at Elsineur: to this Captain Cook very properly replied, that the Governor must have been mistaken, when he gave this order for delivering the deserter, who had his option whether he would serve the Dutch or the English; but that in compliment to the Governor, the man should be given up, as a favour, if he appeared to be a Dane; but that, in this case, he should by no means be demanded as a right, and that he would certainly keep him, if he appeared to be a subject of the crown of Great Britain. The Dutchman now took his leave, and he had not been long gone, before the Captain received a letter from the commanding officer on board, containing full proof, that the man was an English subject. This letter the Captain carried to the Shebander, desiring him to lay it before the Governor, and to inform him, that the man should not be delivered up on any terms whatever. This spirited conduct on the part of Captain Cook had the proper effect; and thus the matter ended.

This day the Captain, attended by Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen who had hitherto lived in the town, repaired on board the ship, which got under sail the next morning. The Endeavour was saluted by the fort, and by the Elgin East Indiaman, which then lay in the road; but soon after these compliments were returned, the sea breeze setting in, they were obliged to come to an anchor. Since the arrival of the ship in Batavia road, every person belonging to her had been ill, except the sail-maker, who was more than seventy years old, yet this man got drunk every day while they remained there. The Endeavour buried seven of her people at Batavia, viz. Tupia and his boy, three of the sailors, the servant of Mr. Green, the astronomer, and the Surgeon: and at the time of the vessel’s sailing, forty of the crew were sick, and the rest so enfeebled by their late illness, as to be scarcely able to do their duty.

The town of Batavia is situated in six degrees ten minutes south latitude, and one hundred and six degrees fifty minutes east longitude, from the meridian of Greenwich. It is built on the bank of a large bay, something more than twenty miles from the Streight of Sunda, on the north side of the island of Java, in low boggy ground. Several small rivers, which rise forty miles up the country, in the mountains of Blaeuwen Berg, discharge themselves into the sea at this place, having first intersected the town in different directions. There are wide canals of nearly stagnated water in almost every street, and as the banks of these canals are planted with rows of trees, the effect is very agreeable; but these trees and canals combine to render the air pestilential. Some of the rivers are navigable, more than thirty miles up the country; and, indeed, the Dutch appear to have chosen this spot to build the town on, for the sake of water-carriage, in which convenience Batavia exceeds every place in the world, except the towns of Holland.

A writer, who published an account of this place near fifty years ago, makes the number of houses at that time 4760, viz. 1242 Dutch houses, and 1200 Chinese houses, within the walls; and 1066 Dutch houses, and 1240 Chinese houses, without the walls, with twelve houses for the vending of arrack. The streets of Batavia being wide, and the houses large, it stands on more ground than any other place that has only an equal number of houses.

In dry weather a most horrid stench arises from the canals, and taint the air to a great degree; and when the rains have so swelled the canals that they overflow their banks, the ground-floors of the houses, in the lower parts of the town, are filled with stinking water, that leaves behind it dirt and slime in amazing quantities. The running streams are sometimes as offensive as the stagnant canals; for the bodies of dead animals are frequently lodged on the shallow parts, where they are left to putrify, and corrupt the air, except a flood happens to carry them away: this was the case with a dead buffaloe, while the crew of the Endeavour were there, which lay stinking on the shoal of a river, in one of the chief streets, for several days.

They sometimes clean the canals; but this business is performed in such a manner, as scarcely to make them less a nuisance than before; for the bottom being cleared of its black mud, it is left on the side of the canal till it is hard enough to be taken away in boats; and as there are no houses for necessary retirement in the whole town, the filth is thrown into the canals regularly once a day, so that this mud is a compound of every thing that can be imagined disagreeable and offensive.

There is a new church in Batavia, which is a fine piece of building, and the dome of it may be seen far off at sea. This church is illuminated by chandeliers of the most superb workmanship, and has a fine organ: most of the other public buildings are ancient, constructed in an ill taste, and give a very compleat idea of Dutch clumsiness.

Their method of building their houses seems to have been taught them by the climate. On the ground-floor there is no room but a large hall, a corner of which is parted off for the transaction of business: the hall has two doors, which are commonly left open, and are opposite each other, so that the air passes freely through the room, in the middle of which there is a court, which at once encreases the draft of air, and affords light to the hall: the stairs, which are at one corner, lead to large and lofty apartments above. The female slaves are not permitted to sit in any place, but in the alcove formed by the court; and this is the usual dining-place of the family.

The town of Batavia is encompassed by a river of shallow water, the stream of which is very rapid: within this river, which is of different widths in various places, is an old stone wall, much decayed in many places, and within the wall is a canal that is likewise much wider in some places than in others: so that there is no entering the gates of the town but by crossing two draw-bridges: there are but few guns on the ramparts, and no persons are permitted to walk there. There is a kind of citadel, or castle, in the north-east corner of the town, the walls of which are both broader and higher than they are in other parts; it is furnished with a number of large guns, which command the landing-place.