ACCOUNT OF MONS. DE BOUGAINVILLE’s VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. PERFORMED BY ORDER OF THE FRENCH KING, In the years 1766, 1767, 1768, 1769. (continued 3)
Reading edition
The ladies and gentlemen of Otaheite stain the lower parts of their backs, and their thighs, with a deep blue; the method of doing which having been already mentioned in our account of Captain Cook’s voyage, need not be here repeated. Mons. Bougainville mentions it as a singular circumstance, that the practice of painting the body has always prevailed among the people of all countries, at the time when they bordered on a state of nature: it is, indeed, a well known fact, that the ancient Britons were found stained with wood, when Julius Cæsar made his first descent on this island.
The natives of Otaheite wear pearls, and flowers of different kinds, in their ears. They likewise make a frequent practice of bathing their bodies, constantly washing themselves before they either eat or drink; so that they are to be ranked among the most cleanly people in the universe.
Our author represents these islanders as good-natured and benevolent in a high degree. He says, that, though the several districts are governed each by its own Chief, public war, or private animosity seemed to be equally unknown on the island. The natives seem not to entertain even the slightest doubt of the integrity of each other, and appear to enjoy, in common, whatever is necessary to the support of life. Their houses are always open night and day, and whoever enters may freely eat of whatever he finds. In like manner they gather fruit from every tree; and all the level country being a kind of continued orchard, seems to be but one common property.
Yet were these people, with such exalted ideas of general benevolence, most dextrous in stealing the property of the French. The Chiefs, however, did not encourage their inferiors in these depredations; on the contrary, they requested the officers to kill those who should be detected in an act of theft: but they would never take this disagreeable talk on themselves.—When a thief was pointed out to Ereti, he would run after till he had overtaken him, and then compelling him to restore the stolen goods, he punished the offence by a number of stripes.
Mons. Bougainville says, he had conceived an idea, that these people had no severer punishment among them than this kind of whipping; for they seemed to commiserate the fate of some of the French seamen, whom they saw put in irons; but our author has been since informed, that they have a custom of punishing theft, by hanging the felon on a tree.
Although the inhabitants of Otaheite maintain perpetual peace among themselves; yet it seldom happens, but that they are engaged in war with the natives of the adjacent islands.
They have large vessels, called Periaguas, in which they descend on the enemies country, and even engage in sea-fights. A pike and a bow with a sling are all their arms.
If Aotourou’s information is to be depended on, the consequences of their battles are very fatal to the vanquished. The men and boys who are made prisoners, are stripped of their skins, and the beards of the men are taken off, and carried away in triumph, as ensigns of the victory. The conquerors take with them the women and girls, with whom they frequently cohabit—Aotourou declared himself the son of one of these unnatural alliances, his mother being a native of Oopoa, an island not far distant from Otaheite, with the inhabitants of which they are frequently at war. Mons. Bougainville ascribes the difference observed between the two races of people, to this intercourse with the captive women of the adjacent islands.
The principal people on the island have a number of servants, who submit to their orders with the most unreserved obedience; and, in each district, the will of the Chief is a law, from the authority of which there is no appeal; but the Chief himself does not come to any resolution respecting matters of great importance, till he has previously consulted with the principal inhabitants. The reader will recollect, that the truth of this circumstance is evinced, by the repeated counsels which were held on occasion of the French having determined to take up their residence on shore.
When an inhabitant of Otaheite dies, his body is deposited on a kind of bier, placed under a shed, to which the women resort daily, and anoint the corpse with the oil of the cocoa-nut. In these places they are left, till all the flesh is wasted from the bones, and then the skeleton is conveyed to the hut of his relations, where a person, who appears to have great authority, attends, and being dressed in a habit peculiar to the occasion, he performs some solemn ceremonies: but how long the skeletons are kept in the houses, our author had no opportunity of knowing.
Mons. Bougainville endeavoured to learn of Aotourou the religious ceremonies of his countrymen; and, if they mutually understood each other, it will appear, that the people of Otaheite are superstitious in a high degree; that the supreme authority is vested in the priests; that their principal Deity is called Eri-t-Era, that is, King of Light, or of the Sun; besides whom they acknowledge a number of inferior divinities, some of whom produce evil, and others good: that the general name of these ministering spirits is Eatoua; and that the natives suppose two of these divinities attend each affair of consequence in human life, determining its fate either advantageously or otherwise.
To one circumstance our author speaks in decisive terms. He says, that when the moon exhibits a certain aspect, which bears the name of Malama Tamai, [the moon in a state of war] the natives offer up human sacrifices.
Mons. Bougainville mentions one circumstance, as a proof that these people originated on the continent, from whence their ancestors must have emigrated. When any one sneezes, his companions cry out, Evaroua-t-eatoua; “that is, may the good genius awaken thee;” or, “may not the evil genius lull thee asleep.”
The principal people on the island appear to have many wives; and our author thinks polygamy is common among them all. The rich are chiefly distinguished from the poor by keeping a greater number of the fair sex; for universal love is the characteristic of the inhabitants of Otaheite. Both the parents seem equally fond of nursing their infants. The men employ themselves principally in war, fishing, and agriculture, while the women have little to do, but to render themselves agreeable by their assiduity to please: they submit implicitly to the will of the men, and the woman who should prostitute herself without the permission of her husband, would atone for her infidelity with her life. Yet is the permission of the husband to gratify her passions, in what way she please, so easily obtained, that these fair ones are not under the least temptation to disobedience: in fact, the wife generally yields her person at the solicitation of her husband; jealousy, therefore, one would imagine, must be a passion quite unknown among them.
The single woman follows, implicitly, the dictates of her heart, and yields her person at her own discretion; and, the more numerous the favours she has granted, the better her chance of obtaining a husband. The examples perpetually before her eyes, the hymeneal songs of the natives, their dances, and their attitudes, added to the seductive warmth of the climate, all conspire to render that circumstance no vice at Otaheite, which would be deemed so in England. Love is at once the business and the pleasure of the natives of this island; and at his shrine, all its inhabitants bend with the most fervent devotion. They dance to the music of a drum, and sing to the flute blown with the nose. They likewise divert themselves, occasionally, with a kind of wrestling, which at once braces the nerves, and relaxes the mind; though in this place, of all parts of the world, the mind seems to require the least relaxation, for almost the whole business of the islanders consists in pleasure.
Our author says, that the inhabitants of Otaheite are a witty and humorous people, which he attributes to their living in ease and jollity.—That ease may make a man happy, we will readily allow; but that it can create humour, or inspire wit, we must beg leave to deny:—perhaps the dullest fellows this day to be found on the habitable globe, are among those who are easy and independant in point of fortune, and perhaps, too, some of the most humorous and witty may be found among those who know not where to obtain a second shilling when the present is expended. This, at least, is the case in London: it may, possibly, fare differently with the Parisians, almost all of whom being poor and merry, may fancy themselves wits and humourists. In a word, wit and humour are not the gifts of fortune, but of Nature.
Mons. Bougainville charges the people of Otaheite with a fickleness of disposition, which was deemed astonishing. Every new object struck their attention, but nothing engaged it for more than a few minutes. To reflect was, to them, a work of labour, and they seemed to prefer bodily to mental exercises.—This, with our ingenious author’s permission, is a proof of their good sense: every man, who can think at all, must know, that the labour of the mind exceeds that of the limbs, in proportion as the soul is superior to the body! For this reason we pay not an artist as we pay a porter; the one will earn an hundred pounds, while the other is drudging for as many shillings: but the porter can drudge on for life, while the artist, if he acquire not sufficient to retire with decency at an early period, will pine away a wretched old age in unmerited penury!
The natives of Otaheite are ingenious, beyond description, in the construction of their fishing-tackle, the hooks of which are of mother of pearl, and wrought as nicely as if with European tools. With threads drawn from the American aloe they form their nets, which are made like those of France, and other nations of Europe. Their houses, too, are exceedingly well built, and the palm-leaves, with which they are thatched, are laid on with great skill and taste.
The boats (or periaguas) of these people are of two kinds. The former very large, hollowed out of huge trees, and finished with much taste, parts of other trees being added as ornaments:—the latter small, and of much ruder construction.—But these kinds of boats having been repeatedly described in this and other books of voyages, it is unnecessary to say more of them.
In order to convey themselves from one island to another, they fix beams of wood from the starboard side of one vessel to the larboard of the other, leaving an intermediate space of something more than a yard; and over the stern of both the boats they erect a kind of hut, lightly built, and covered with reeds, which serves as a repository for their provisions, and a shelter against the inclemency of the weather.
Two boats thus lashed together never overset; and are therefore much in use among the people of superior rank: the sails of these vessels are nearly square, and consist of mats, stretched out by means of pieces of cane.
The only tools in use among the natives of Otaheite are pieces of shells made sharp, for boring holes in wood, and a chissel, in the European make, the blade of which is formed of a hard black stone.
The natives manufacture that remarkable kind of cloth which forms their dress: a shrub is cultivated near all the Indian huts, from the rind of which this cloth is made, by beating it on a smooth board, and occasionally sprinkling it with water, till it is as thin as paper, and something like it, only much more pliable. Thus they make cloth of different thickness, which they afterwards dye; but their process in the dying it Mons. Bougainville had no opportunity of seeing.
Our author now employs two or three pages in defence of his conduct in bringing Aotourou from his native island, in answer to some illiberal reflections which had been cast on him; and then he proceeds to describe some particulars of the Indian’s behaviour during his residence. This account should certainly have appeared as a supplement to the Volume; but we take it as it stands.
Mons. Bougainville says he endeavoured, at a great trouble and expence, to render Aotourou’s residence at Paris both improving and entertaining to him. The curiosity of the public to view this stranger was insatiable; and the foolish Parisians were astonished to learn, that there was any country on the face of the earth, where neither French, English, nor Spanish was spoken. Mons. Bougainville happily ridicules this strange kind of ignorance; but he does not seem to wonder, that it should prevail among those who had never been without the walls of the city which gave them birth.
Our author is likewise very severe on a set of critics, who seemed to wonder that Aotourou could live among Frenchmen almost two years, and yet learn only a very few words of their language. To account for this, Mons. Bougainville mentions a physical obstruction in the organs of his speech; his age, which rather exceeded thirty years; the deficiency of a memory never exercised by study; and the possessing only a very limited number of ideas, relative to the trifling wants of the natives of his happy island. Hence our author concludes, that he must first of all have created “a world of previous ideas, in a mind as indolent as his body”, before he could adapt them to the French words proper to express them.
Though Aotourou was thus deficient in the language of France, yet the streets of Paris were quite familiar to him. He went out daily without attendants, and found his way readily through the whole city. He frequently bought things, and was seldom defrauded in the purchase. None of the public diversions had any charms for him but the opera, to which he went regularly: for he knew the nights on which it was to be performed, and paid the same for admittance as other people: his great fondness for dancing was what rendered the opera so agreeable to him.
He was exceedingly grateful to those who conferred any obligations on him, nor did he ever forget their persons or their favours. The Dutchess of Choiseul stood foremost in the list of his friends, and he expressed more gratitude for the polite attention with which she treated him, than even for the numerous presents which he received at her hands: and as often as he heard of that lady’s being arrived from her country-seat, he would immediately go and visit her.
After a residence of eleven months at Paris, Aotourou was put on board the Brisson, at Rochelle, which ship was destined to convey him to the isle of France, whither orders were sent to the Governor and intendant, to transport him thence to his own country. Mons. Bougainville gave about 1500 l. sterling, towards the fitting out the Brisson for this voyage; and the Dutchess of Choiseul ordered a considerable sum to be expended in cattle, seeds, implements of husbandry, &c. which were shipped for the use of the natives of Otaheite. Mons. Bougainville concludes this part of his narrative with the following very humane and equally political wish. “O may Aotourou soon see his countrymen again!”
Our author now proceeds to inform us of several particulars, with which his conversation with this adventrous islander had made him acquainted. If Mons. Bougainville be not misled in his information, the state of facts will appear to be, that the inhabitants of Otaheite pay their devotions to the Deity, at the rising and setting of the sun; that their supreme God is incapable of representation; but that they have two classes of inferior deities, who are represented by figures carved in wood. Exclusive of these regular devotions, the natives of Otaheite practice a number of superstitious ceremonies, in order to avert the influence of the evil genii.
While Aotourou was at Paris, in 1769, a comet appeared, which furnished Mons. Bougainville with an opportunity of knowing that these kind of stars had been frequently observed at Otaheite; but that the natives do not suppose that they are portentous of any evil consequence; on the contrary, what we call shooting stars, are, by these people, deemed evil genii.—How far it was possible for Aotourou to explain himself to Mons. Bougainville, on astronomical subjects, is left to the reader’s reflection.
The more enlightened people of Otaheite have names for the sun, moon, and stars; by which, without the assistance of the needle or compass, they steer their course night and day, sailing, at some times, not less than eight hundred miles from island to island. In the daytime they are guided by the sun, and by the stars in the night.
Mons. Bougainville learnt from Aotourou the names of several islands, in the seas near Otaheite, the natives of some of which were in friendship, and those of others at war, with his countrymen. Of the former are Tapouamassou, Oumaitia, Aca, Maoroua, and Aimeo; of the latter, Oopoa, Toumaraa, Otaa, Aiatea, and Papara; all which are represented as about equal in extent with Otaheite.
There is an island, called Pare, the inhabitants of which are alternately at war and in friendship with the natives of Otaheite. In these seas are likewise two small islands, called Toupai, and Enoua-Motou, which are not inhabited, but yield abundance of fruit, fowls, and hogs, while their coasts abound with turtle, and other fish; but the people of Otaheite conceiving these islands to be the residence of evil genii, deem it a certain sign of misfortune, if either curiosity or chance should lead any boat to their coasts; and it is supposed, that those who endeavour to land there will perish in the attempt.
The most distant of all the islands above-mentioned is not more than about fifteen days sail from Otaheite, even with the boats of that island; and Mons. Bougainville conjectures, that Aotourou had no idea of going farther when he embarked on board the Boudeuse.—If this conjecture be well founded, there certainly was not so much magnanimity in this Indian’s behaviour as we have been hitherto taught to believe:—but there are great inconsistencies in the writings of our voyager, which the reader will pardon, in favour of his vanity. It is our duty to correct and amend as we proceed.
Mons. Bougainville at first imagined, that the inhabitants of Otaheite were nearly equal in point of rank, and that their happiness was to be envied, from their supposed equality: but he now, from the information of Aotourou, corrects that error, and confesses that, “the distinction of ranks is very great,” and “the disproportion very tyrannical.”—The Chiefs, and other men in power, dispose of the lives of their dependants at their pleasure; and our author thinks, that they have the power of exerting this cruel prerogative over the common people, who are not immediately dependant on them. The vulgar are distinguished by the appellation of Tata-einow, that is, vile men; and it is mentioned, as an indubitable fact, that those doomed for sacrifices are selected from the Plebeian race. The Grandees only eat fish and flesh, while the common people subsist entirely on pulse and fruits. Indeed the distinction of rank appears to be very great; for persons of eminence are lighted from place to place in the night, with a wood of superior quality to that which the vulgar are allowed to burn. The tree called the weeping willow is planted only before the houses of the Chiefs or Kings, and their public dinners are held beneath its shade.
The servants of the great men are distinguished by a kind of sash, worn round the body, which is placed across the loins, or higher up, till it comes close under the arm-pits, in proportion to the rank of the master.
The natives of Otaheite make two regular meals daily, one just after noon, and the other as soon as the sun is gone down. The servants cook the victuals, which are served up by the wives, who eat after their husbands have done.
When the men die, the women go into mourning for them; but this compliment is not returned on the part of the men. The children wear mourning a long time after the death of the father, and on the decease of a king, the whole nation is in sables. The mourning consists of a head-dress of black feathers, and a veil drawn over the face.
Aotourou informed Mons. Bougainville, that this veil was very favourable to the wishes of those women whose husbands were not so complaisant as his countrymen in general are. This arises from the following circumstance. When the mourners go out, a number of slaves walk before them, beating the castanets to a solemn melancholy tune, which is considered as a notice for all persons to keep at a distance from the afflicted: thus, the veil over the face, and the sound of an instrument from which every one flies, cannot but be auspicious to the wishes of the enraptured lovers.
When any person is dangerously ill, all his relations repair to his house, and remain there till he is either dead or out of danger, each, in his turn, attending the sick man. Their method of bleeding is very singular. An inferior priest, called Taoua, is the physician, who strikes the cranium with a piece of sharp wood, which opens the sagittal vein; and when he deems the patient to have bled sufficiently, he ties on a bandage, which closes the orifice; the day following he washes the wound, and no ill consequence ensues.
Mons. Bougainville says, that the preceding account contains every thing he could learn respecting the customs of Otaheite, either on the island, or from the information of Aotourou. Our author remarks, that some words spoken by the natives of Otaheite, are to be found in a vocabulary at the end of La Maire’s voyage, under the title of the “Vocabulary of Cocos island”, which being mentioned as lying nearly in the same latitude with Otaheite, is conjectured to be one of those islands, the names of which were recited by Aotourou.
The language of the people of Otaheite is described by Mons. Bougainville as extremely harmonious, and easy of pronunciation, consisting chiefly of vowels, and having no aspirates. He says also that it has no nasal, mute, or half syllables; nor “that quantity of consonants and articulations, which render some languages so difficult.” Hence, he concludes, arose the difficulty of teaching Aotourou the French tongue; but he thinks it would have been a work of much less labour to have taught him the Italian or Spanish.
How far our author is right in his conjectures, it would be no easy task to determine; for the direct contrary of what he says of the language of these islanders has been observed by the English navigators. As we have already given some vocabularies, we shall, at the conclusion of this narrative, give that of Mons. Bougainville, that the reader may determine whether the English or the French voyagers have the best pretensions to credibility.
Mons. Bougainville informs us, that a gentleman of Paris, distinguished by his skill in teaching the art of speech to persons born deaf and dumb, repeatedly examined Aotourou, and found that he could not naturally pronounce any of the French nasal vowels, and but very few of the consonants.
Our author is of opinion, that the language of Otaheite is sufficiently copious, and he grounds this opinion on the following circumstances. Whenever, during the voyage, Aotourou was struck with any new object, he immediately expressed his sentiments in a kind of extempore blank verse; and he also repeated daily a long prayer, which he called “the prayer of the Kings,” not a dozen words of which Mons. Bougainville understood, or heard him repeat on any other occasion.
Aotourou informed the Commodore, that an English ship had arrived at Otaheite about eight months before the French touched at that island. This (says our author) was the vessel commanded by Captain Wallace; and he ascribes the knowledge of iron, which was observed among the natives, to this visit of the English, especially as they call it Aouri, which is not very unlike our word iron. Our Frenchman likewise gives a very ungenteel hint, that the poor Indians were indebted to the English for the venereal disease; but the contrary of this is known to be the fact.
Mons. Bougainville now proceeds to give an account of his departure from Otaheite, and his discovery of other islands in the southern pacific ocean. On the morning of the 16th of April, 1768, he discovered what he thought to be three other islands; but it was afterwards found to be only one, the high lands of which had, at a distance, given it the appearance of separate islands. At a considerable distance beyond this island, they saw another, which Aotourou told them was called Oumaitia; that the natives of it were in alliance with the people of Otaheite; that there was a girl on the island to whom he had a strong attachment; and that if the Commodore would touch there, he would meet with the same kind of necessaries, and the same hospitable treatment, as he had experienced among his countrymen.
Our circumnavigator, however, deaf to all these persuasive arguments, held on his way, and lost sight of the island the same day. The succeeding night proving remarkably fair, and the stars appearing with unclouded lustre, Aotourou pointed out a constellation in the shoulder of Orion, and expressed a wish, that the ship’s course might be directed by it, in consequence of which they would, in two days time, arrive at a fine island where he had a numerous acquaintance; and it was conjectured, from his hints, that he had also a child there. As Mons. Bougainville persisted in his resolution not to alter the ship’s course, Aotourou became very uneasy, and endeavoured to persuade him to steer for the desired port, by assuring him, that the island abounded in hogs, fowls, fruits, and, what he seemed to think would be the most prevailing argument, fine women, who were abundantly liberal of their favours.
Mortified in a high degree that his reasons did not operate with the Commodore, he ran to the steerage, and seizing the wheel of the helm, tried to steer for his favourite isle, nor was it without great difficulty on the part of the helm’s-man, and equal vexation on that of the poor Indian, that he was prevented from carrying his design into execution.
Early on the following morning he climbed to the mast-head, where he remained several hours, anxiously looking out for the spot which had so much attracted his regard.
On the preceding night he pointed out a great number of stars, and informed Mons. Bougainville of their names in the language of Otaheite; and it was afterwards certainly known, that this islander was not unacquainted with the phases of the moon, and that he was learned in those prognosticks, which evince an approaching change of the weather. It likewise appeared, that his countrymen were not uninformed in this kind of knowledge, so useful to people whose wants or curiosity frequently carry them to sea, where they have no compass to direct their course, except their own judgment, and the sight of the cœlestial constellations.
Mons. Bougainville confesses, that the natives of Otaheite are fully convinced that the sun and moon are peopled; and he asks, “What Fontenelle taught them the plurality of worlds?”—We will answer him.—The omnipotent Creator of all worlds, who fills all space; whose power gave birth, and whose presence gives life to nature, and who has poured his bounties, with unsparing hand, on every part of his creation.
Our historian having acknowledged, that these islanders are possessed of such great and superior talents, has certainly no right to call, or to deem, them savages. Is a man a savage because he happens to be born in a different part of the world from us; because he is unacquainted with the languages of Europe, and untaught in customs, which he could never, from the locality of his situation, have an opportunity of learning? The historians, and particularly the navigators of this quarter of the globe, are very censurably fond of distinguishing, by the title of savages, all those who are happy enough to be born in milder climates, and to live and die, uninstructed in those arts of refinement, and unskilled in that baseness of insincerity, which are at once the characteristick, the boast, and the disgrace of the Christian world.
The weather continued fine till the end of April, at which time the principal pilot on board the Boudeuse died of an apoplectic fit. In the beginning of the month of May, three islands were discovered at the distance of ten or twelve leagues to the north-west; but these were unknown to Aotourou, who imagined that it was Mons. Bougainville’s country. The moon shone bright in the night, during which they kept sight of the islands, and in the morning steered for the largest, the eastern shore of which they coasted, and found it about nine miles in length.
The coasts of this island are remarkably steep, and, in fact, the whole of it is little else than an enormous hill, cloathed with trees. Several fires were seen on shore, a small number of houses covered with reeds, under the shade of cocoa-nut trees, and more than twenty of the natives running hastily along the coast.
The two smaller islands were each about a mile and a half in length, and separated from the larger one by an arm of the sea; in shape and appearance they are very much like the former.
The Commodore had given directions to steer between the islands, when a boat, with five Indians in her, was observed coming off towards the ship. She advanced very near, but, though every sign of friendly invitation was made, not one of the natives would venture on board. They had no kind of cloathing but a bandage round the waist; and as they could not be prevailed on to come up the ship’s side, Aotourou stripped himself, leaving on nothing more than what they wore, and addressed them in the language of Otaheite; but they understood not a word of what he said.
As they held up some cocoa-nuts, and other vegetables, and seemed to wish to barter them for some trinkets which were shewn them, Mons. Bougainville ordered out one of the ship’s boats, with a view to visit the strangers; but they no sooner learnt his intention, than they rowed off with all possible expedition, and he did not think proper to follow them.
In a little time many other boats advanced towards the ships, some of them rowed, and others sailing. These, less diffident than the former, came close under the ship’s side, but none of the islanders would venture on board. They exchanged pieces of an exquisitely fine shell, yams, cocoa-nuts, and a water hen of most beautiful plumage, for small pieces of red stuff; but they did not seem fond of earrings, knives, nails, nor iron of any kind; which had been so eagerly coveted by the inhabitants of Otaheite. One of these Indians brought a cock with him, but he would not part with it on any terms. They had also some pieces of cloth, of the same kind as that manufactured at Otaheite, but not of so fine a fabrick, and died black, brown and red, but none of the colours were good of their kinds. They were likewise possessed of a kind of wood hardened by fire, lances, mats, and fish-hooks made of bones.
Mons. Bougainville conjectures, from the features of these islanders, that they are not of so amiable a disposition as the natives of Otaheite; and he represents them as such dextrous thieves, that it was almost impossible to guard against their depredations.
These people are of the middle size, and exceedingly alert; they are of a deep brown complexion, but one was seen among them who was much fairer than any of the others; they had no beards, so that it was supposed they were plucked out by the roots, and their hair, which was universally black, stood almost erect on their heads; their thighs and breasts were painted with a deep blue.
Their boats are built in a most ingenious taste, and furnished with out-riggers. The head and stern of the vessel are equally flat with its sides, and over each is a small deck, in the center of which is a row of wooden pegs, the tops of which are enclosed in a shell of the purest white: the sail is formed of matting, and its shape triangular, being extended by means of sticks.
In these boats the islanders followed the French vessels to a considerable distance out to sea, while several others, from the smaller islands, joined the naval procession, and produced an effect that was highly agreeable. In one of these last mentioned boats was an old woman, remarkably distinguished by the singular ugliness of her features.
As the weather now fell calm, the Commodore gave up, from an apprehension of danger, his project of sailing between the islands, though the breadth of the channel was more than four miles. They now sailed, therefore, in the open sea, and on the evening of the same day, the man at the mast-head had sight of other land, even while they were yet in view, by the aid of a bright moon, of the islands they had lately left.
On the morning of the 5th it appeared, that the newly discovered land was a most beautiful island, consisting of alternate mountains and vallies, clothed with the richest verdure, and finely shadowed by the spreading branches of the cocoa-nut, and a variety of other trees. Near the westermost point of this island is a ledge of rocks, and the sea breaks with violence on many parts of the coast, so that it would be difficult to land, except in very few places.
Many boats put off from the island, and sailed round the ships, though they were then going at the rate of at least seven knots an hour. These boats, however, one only excepted, would not venture near the ships; but that one went along-side, and her crew made signs for the French to land, which they would have done, but the breakers rendered it impossible. At this time the man at the mast-head observed a number of the Indian boats sailing to the southward.
On the following day another island was seen to the westward of the ship’s course, in the neighbourhood of which were two smaller islands; but none of these could be distinctly beheld, on account of some thick fogs, which intercepted the view.
The last mentioned islands are situated nearly where Tasman, the Dutch navigator, has placed a number of islands which he discovered, and to which he gave the names of Heemskirk, Prince William, Pylstaart, Amsterdam and Rotterdam. The longitude of these islands corresponds likewise, very nearly, with those which navigators have called Solomon’s Isles; so that it is most probable they are the same.
Mons. Bougainville conjectures, that the number of boats which were observed sailing to the southward, is a vindication that there are other islands at no great distance; and, indeed, this opinion seems to be well-grounded. To all these lands the Commodore gave the general name of the Archipelago of the Navigators.
The writer of this work must be indulged for giving a hint, which springs from the noblest of motives, the love of his country. It is surely well worthy the consideration of the British ministry, whether it might not be proper to send a fleet to discover and settle some of these islands.—Who knows what future benefit might, from such a circumstance, accrue to the first maritime and commercial state in the universe?—The American colonies form the brightest gem in the British crown. The colonies in the southern pacific ocean might, not improbably, constitute a diadem of still superior lustre!
On the morning of the 11th another island was discovered, which received the name of the Forlorn Hope; but for what reason it is impossible to guess. At a distance it had the appearance of two islands, but this deception was occasioned by its shape, for it consisted of two hills, joined by a low land, which could not be seen far out at sea.
At this period, and for some days before and afterwards, the weather was extremely unfavourable, the winds being adverse, and the rains and calms alternate. Mons. Bougainville (on this circumstance) observes, that in the ocean which has obtained the name of Pacific, the approach to land is generally announced by violent tempests, which become still more violent, in proportion as the moon decreases. The vicinity of islands is generally foreboded by thick clouds at the horizon, and squally weather; and the precautions necessary to be taken to prevent a vessel’s running fowl of shoals, may be more easily conceived than described. In the present instance it was impossible to proceed with the necessary degree of caution; for the crew were in want of provisions, and water, in particular, grew very scarce; so that they were obliged to take advantage of every breeze of wind, both by night and day, and run all hazards, for fear of starving.
Thus situated, it may be presumed, that they thought themselves sufficiently unhappy; but their distresses were aggravated by the greater number of the crew of each ship being attacked by the scurvy, which inflamed their mouths to such a degree, that they could scarcely have swallowed those refreshments of which they stood much in need. Salt beef, pork, and dried pulse, constituted the whole fare of those who remained in health; for the sick, however, there were yet some few articles of fresh provisions remaining.
At this unfortunate juncture the disease, consequent on an illicit commerce between the sexes, made its appearance, attended by all its most disagreeable symptoms. Aotourou was so extremely ill of it, that though seeming to despise its progress and its effects, he was obliged to submit himself to the care of the Surgeons. Mons. Bougainville’s words, on this occasion, are very remarkable. “In his (Aotourou’s) country, this disease is but little minded. Columbus brought it from America; here it is in an isle in the midst of the greatest ocean. Have the English brought it thither? Or ought the physician to win, who laid a wager, that if four healthy stout men were shut up with one healthy woman, the venereal complaint would be the consequence of their commerce?”
Ungenerous Frenchman! Why this unjustifiable attack on the English? At the time Mons. Bougainville wrote the narrative of his voyage, he knew that some of his crew were infected with the malady in question, when they landed at Otaheite; for, in a former part of his volume he has said, that he did all in his power to prevent their communicating it to the poor islanders. What becomes, too, of his wonder, how a disorder should find its way to a little island in the pacific ocean, when he knew that his own ship had carried it thither!—Whether Columbus brought this pestilence from America or not, is, perhaps a question not easily determined; nor, at this period, is it at all material: but one fact is well known; that the French have plentifully distributed the contagion through Europe, and it is not improbable, that they have likewise carried it to every other quarter of the globe.
This subject is rather of the indelicate kind; but we are necessarily led into it; and may be indulged in one remark, that seems to arise naturally from the preceding circumstances, and will, we trust, militate on the side of virtue.—Providence, we conceive, wisely intended one man for the associate of one woman, who should be the companion of his life, the friend of his bosom, the partaker of his joys, the sharer of his griefs, whose love for him should excite all his tenderness, and repay, with interest, those toils and cares it gave rise to. Thus paired, thus mutually giving and receiving happiness, the married state is indeed a heaven on earth. Wedded love, the chaste, the holy, the conjugal tie, will ensure as much happiness as is to be found in this sublunary world; and trust, O reader, in the goodness of God for the future. To sum up this remark, marriages are made in heaven; choose, ye ladies, with prudence choose, the heart paired with your own; select ye, generous youths, the amiable fair, whose eyes beam the gentle influence of love, and whose heart feels the solid force of virtue; then be true to each other, and bid defiance to contagion: so shall your days be happy, and your children bless the parents to whom they owe the first of human blessings, health of body, and of mind.
The ships now steered a westerly course, and early on the morning of the 22d two islands were discovered, one of which received the name of Aurora, from the early hour on which it was first seen, and the other that of Whitsuntide Isle, from the day which gave birth to its being so named.
The track of the vessels was now so directed, as that they might have passed between the two islands, but an unexpected calm prevented this manœuvre. Proceeding to the northward of the first discovered island, a rising land, in a conical form, was observed to bear north by west, which received the name of the Peak of the Etoile.
In the afternoon, mountainous lands, at thirty miles distance, were seen, appearing, as it were, over and beyond the island of Aurora.
On the twenty-third it was discovered, that the land last seen was a separate island; the appearance of which was lofty, its descent steep, and the whole cloathed with trees. A number of boats were seen coasting the shore, but none of them approached the ships; smoke was seen issuing from among the woods, but no habitation was observed.
In the morning the Commodore dispatched three boats, well manned and armed, to take in wood, and to learn the necessary particulars respecting the country, while the ships guns were brought to bear on the island, in order to protect the boats crews from any insult that might be offered them by the natives.
Mons. Bougainville himself went on shore in the afternoon, where he found the good natured Indians assisting the French in carrying to the boats a quantity of wood which had been cut.
The information obtained from the officer commanding the boat’s crew was, that on his first landing, the natives assembled on the shore, armed with bows and arrows, intimating, by signs, that the strangers must retreat. The French officer, however, gave directions for landing, and while his people advanced, the islanders retreated, but with their bows bent, and in an attitude of self-defence. At length, the crew were ordered to halt, while the Prince of Nassau approached the Indians, who no longer retreated when they saw only one person advancing. The Prince having given them some remnants of red cloth, their esteem appeared to be at once conciliated.
The commanding officer now stationed himself at the entrance of a wood, and sent out a party in search of refreshments, while another was deputed to cut fire-wood. The natives now came forward, with an appearance of friendship, and distributed some fruit among the seamen, to whom they likewise gave some arrows, but refused to accept any thing in exchange. Their numbers were considerable, and those who were not armed with bows and arrows had provided themselves with stones, as instruments of defence.
These people intimated, that they were at war with the natives of a different district on the island, and even while they were hinting this circumstance, an armed party of Indians approached from the westward, while the former appeared determined not to retreat from their enemies; but the valour of the latter was rendered unnecessary to be exerted by the want of present courage in the former.
Matters were in this situation when Mons. Bougainville landed on the island, where he remained till his boats were laden with the articles he wanted.
This being done, he took possession of the island, by the act of burying at the foot of a tree an inscription, carved on an oak-plank; and then he retreated to the ship.
It was imagined, that this early retreat of the French prevented an attack, which the islanders had meditated, as they seemed to be making preparations for what they had not yet in their power to carry into execution; but no sooner had the boats put off, than the islanders hastened to the beach, and complimented them with a shower of arrows, and a volley of stones; some of them even plunged into the waves, aiming their fury at the supposed invaders, and hurling their vengeance on the insolent strangers. When, at length, one of the seamen had been wounded by a stone, a discharge of muskets drove the poor islanders to their native woods, evidently wounded, from their cries and exclamations.
Mons. Bougainville gives the following description of the natives of this island, which he called the Isle of Lepers, from observing, that many of the inhabitants were afflicted with the leprosy. Some of them are mulatto’s, and others perfect negroes; their hair is woolly, and generally black, but in some instances of a very light brown, approaching to a yellow. Few women were seen among them, but those few were equally disagreeable with the men, who are represented as low in stature, ill-favoured, and disproportionably made.
We will not deny the veracity of our historian; the works of Nature and of Providence are astonishing. The God of creation is equally wise and wonderful in all his works; but we must own, that it appears to be a phenomenon, the existence of which surpasses the credulity of an English reader, that black men should have (to use Mons. Bougainville’s own words) hair “of a yellowish colour.” Of all historians, the circumnavigators are fond of dealing in the marvellous. Our Commodore, presuming that he had visited an island unapproached by any other European Commander, has told us just what he pleased of the natives of that island, and it is not in our power to contradict him. It would have given weight to the testimony of our flippant French historian, if he had brought to Paris one of these curious Lusus Naturæ, these yellow-pated negroes.
The ladies of this singular country carry their children in a bag of cloth, slung at their backs. On these cloths there are elegant drawings in a fine dye of crimson. The noses of the men are pierced and hung with ornaments; and it is presumed, that they pluck their beards, as none of them were observed to have any. They wear a bracelet on the arm, which had the appearance of ivory, and pieces of tortoishells round their necks.
Clubs, stones, bows and arrows form the armour of these people; the arrows are made of reeds pointed with bone. On the points of these bones are inverted darts, which prevent the arrow being drawn without tearing the flesh of the wounded person. The boats of these islanders bore a strong resemblance to those of the Indians of the isle of Navigators; but these vessels did not approach the ships so near, as to furnish the French with an opportunity of giving a particular description of their construction.
Near the beach on which Mons. Bougainville landed, is a lofty hill, extremely steep, yet cloathed with a super-abundance of verdure. The vegetable productions of the Isle of Lepers, are far inferior to those of Otaheite, owing, as is supposed, to the lightness of the soil, and its want of depth.
Figs, of a species not before known, were found in this country; and several paths were seen cut through the woods, and inclosed by pallisadoes about a yard in height. It was conjectured, that these enclosures marked the boundaries of the landed property of different persons. Half a dozen hovels only were seen, into which no person could enter but on his hands and knees; yet the inhabitants were very numerous, and it is supposed they must be very miserable, from the perpetual wars among the natives of different districts on the island.
Mons. Bougainville says, that the sound of a drum, harsh and dissonant to the ear, was frequently heard in the wood near the top of the above-mentioned hill; and this he imagines to have been a signal for the Indians to rally their forces; for no sooner had the discharge of the fire-arms dispersed the multitude, than this drum was immediately heard; and when the islanders in enmity with the others appeared, the drum was beat with suspended violence.
Aotourou formed a very contemptible opinion of the inhabitants of the Isle of Lepers, whose persons appeared indescribably odious in his eyes; and of whose language he had not the slightest idea.
On the 23d more land was discovered, which, on the 25th, was observed to enclose almost all the horizon, so that the ships were surrounded in one extensive gulph, while the coast of the newly-discovered country contained many other gulphs, or large inlets, across which several boats were observed rowing, from one shore to the other.
The night of the 25th was spent in tacking, and in the morning it was observed, that the currents had carried the ships several miles more to the south than their reckoning. The number of isles now seen was so great, that they could not be counted, nor could the end of these extensive countries be discerned.
Steering north-west by west, the land had a very beautiful aspect, being diversified with fine trees, between spots of land that had the appearance of being cultivated. Some parts of the mountains being barren, and spotted in different places with a red earth, Mons. Bougainville conjectures from that circumstance, that they contained some mineral substances.
A great inlet to the westward having been seen on the preceding day, the ships now arrived in it, and saw a number of negro Indians on the south coast of it, while others approached the vessels in their boats, but when they came to about the distance of a musket shot, they would advance no nearer, nor could any sign of invitation from the French induce them to alter their resolution.
The land on the north shore is of a moderate height, and cloathed with trees. On this shore many negroes were seen, and several boats put off towards the ships; but these, like the former, refused to come to board.
At the distance of about eight miles from this spot, two islands were seen, which formed the entrance of a fine bay, which the boats were sent to examine, and after they had been gone a few hours, the sound of muskets were heard, which made the Commodore very uneasy. On their return in the evening it appeared, that one of them, in disobedience to the orders of the Commander, had left her consort, and going near in shore, the Indians discharged two arrows at the crew, which was returned by the musquetry, and some larger guns. A projecting point of land prevented the boat being seen from the ships; but the incessant firing induced the Commodore to imagine, that she was engaged with a very large number of the enemies boats, two of which she had certainly encountered.
Preparations were making for dispatching the long-boat to her assistance, when she was descried, coming round the above-mentioned point of land.
The lamentable cries of the poor Indians were now heard in the woods, to which they had fled, from the rage of their enemies, and their drums were incessantly beating.—We must now transcribe one passage from Mons. Bougainville, because it is the most humane, and consequently the noblest, in his whole narrative: “I immediately made signal to the boat to come on board, and I took my measures to prevent our being dishonoured for the future, by such an abuse of the superiority of our power.”
The country last mentioned consisted of a number of small islands, off which there is tolerable good anchorage, but at such a distance from the coast, that a ship could not cover any boats which should land, which, as the islands are cloathed with thick woods, would be the more necessary.
These Indians went naked, and, except a bandage round the waist, wore the same kind of ornaments as those on the island of Lepers, whom they resembled in all respects, except not being quite so black; and the productions of the island were likewise the same.—The Commodore very properly declined any attempt to trade with these people, whom he could not suppose would barter their effects with those, from whom they had received such essential injuries.
On the morning of the 27th they again sailed, and, in a few hours, had sight of a fine plantation of trees, between which there were regular walks, resembling those of an European garden. Many of the natives were seen near this spot, and as an inlet was observed at no small distance, the Commodore ordered the boats to be hoisted out but they found that it was impracticable to land.
The ships now quitted the great cluster of islands they had lately visited, which received the general name of Archipelago of the great Cyclades, which, it is conjectured, occupies no less than three degrees of latitude, and five of longitude. Mons. Bougainville says, that these islands are not the same that Quiros called Tierra Austral del Espiritu Santo; but that Roggewein saw the northern extremity of them, which he denominated Groningen, and Thienhoven.
Our author now recites a very singular fact. On board the store-ship was a person reported to be a woman, which was almost confirmed by her want of beard, her voice, and her shape. The Commodore going on board the Etoile, enquired into the fact; when the party confessed her sex, while floods of tears streamed down her face.
Her story is extraordinary.—Born in Burgundy, and left an Orphan, she was ruined by the fatal issue of a law-suit: on which she resolved to drop the habit of her sex, and served a gentleman at Paris; but hearing of Mons. Bougainville’s intended expedition round the world, she repaired to Rochefort, where, just before the ships embarked, she entered into the service of Mons. de Commerçon, who went out with a view of encreasing his botanical knowledge. She followed her master, with astonishing courage and resolution, through deep snows, to the hoary tops of the mountains in the streight of Magellan, carrying loads of herbs, plants, arms and provisions, with unspeakable courage, and unwearied toil.
While our adventurers were at Otaheite, the men of that island flocked round our heroine, and exclaiming, “this is a woman!” would certainly have treated her as such, but that an officer rescued her from their hands, and ordered her to be delivered, unviolated on board the ship.
Mons. Bougainville observes, that this is the first woman that ever circumnavigated the globe, and remarks on the singularity of her situation, if the ships should have been wrecked on some desert isle in the great ocean. The name of this extraordinary woman is Baré; and she is as celebrated for her chastity as her courage.
On the night between the fourth and fifth of June some breakers were seen at half a league’s distance, by the light of the moon. In the morning it appeared to be a low flat sandy isle, abounding in birds, which received the name of the Shoal of Diana.
About this period several species of fruit, and some pieces of wood, floated by the ship; and a kind of flying fish was seen, larger than the common sort, the body of which was black, and the wings red.
A sand bank was discovered on the 6th, on which the sea broke violently, and the tops of rocks were seen at intermediate spaces. “This last discovery (says our author) was the voice of God, and we were obedient to it.”—They therefore spent the night in making short tacks in that part of the sea with which they were previously acquainted.
At this time the salt provisions on board were become so putrid, that it was almost impossible for men, even on the point of starving, to swallow them; and therefore the rats were industriously sought after, and eaten in preference to it. The remaining peas would serve only forty days, and the bread two months; so that it became highly necessary to think of steering to the northward.
On the 10th, before day-break, an agreeable fragrancy impregnated the air, announcing that land was near; and it was accordingly discovered before sun-rising. This is described as a most delicious country, divided, near the sea coast, into groves and plains, behind which the land rises, in the form of amphitheatre, till the tops of the mountains are lost in the clouds. The most lofty of three chain of mountains was seen above seventy miles in-land. The whole country appeared to be rich and fertile, but the deplorable situation to which the ship’s companies were reduced, would not admit of their staying to take a more accurate survey of it.
On the 10th a prodigious swell from the south-east drove the ships violently towards land, and they were soon within about two miles of it; and the night was passed in this dangerous situation, taking advantage of every slight breeze to clear the shore. A number of boats were now seen coasting the island, on many parts of which fires were observed. A turtle was found here in the belly of a shark.
For several successive days there was so thick a fog, that the Boudeuse was obliged to fire frequent guns to keep company with the Etoile, on board of which were a part of their provisions.
Several shell fish, called cornets, leaped into the ship in the night, and as it is known of these fish, that they are accustomed to keep at the bottom of the sea, it is evident, that the ships must have been in very shallow water.
On the 16th the weather became fine, and on the following day several islands were discovered, one of which was called Ushant, from its similitude to the island of that name.
By this time our voyagers were reduced to very great extremities. The allowance of bread and pease was considerably reduced; and a fear of the consequences that might arise, obliged the Commodore to forbid the eating of leather. There was yet on board a she-goat, which had been brought from Falkland’s Islands; she yielded milk daily, but this was insufficient to save her life: the starving crew demanded the victim, and the butcher, who had hitherto been her feeder, wept as he plunged the murderous knife in the breast of his favourite. Soon after this a dog, which had been put on board at the streights of Magellan, fell a sacrifice to the dire demands of hunger.
On the 18th not less than nine or ten islands were discovered, and on the 20th a still farther number. Our navigators now struggled at once with a variety of inconveniences, occasioned by foul ships, damaged rigging, crazy masts, and tempestuous weather.
On the 25th high land was discovered, which appeared to terminate in a cape, which they doubled with a degree of transport that may be more easily conceived than described, as it was the point they had wished for a sight of, from a certainty that it would enable them to quit for ever the archipelago of islands, amidst which they had been so long in hourly danger of shipwreck or starving. This cape was called Cape Deliverance, and the name of the Gulph of the Louisiade, was given to a bay, of which the Cape forms the eastermost point.
North of Cape Deliverance about sixty leagues land was discovered, which proved to be two small islands; and, two days afterwards, an officer was sent to examine several creeks, in the hope of finding anchorage, while the ships sailed slowly after the boats, ready to join them on the first signal.
The natives now advanced towards the ship in several boats, carrying from two or three, to upwards of twenty men each.
These boats had no outriggers, and their crews were as black as the negroes on the coast of Guinea. Some of them had reddish hair, and that of all of them was long and curled. They wore white ornaments on their foreheads and necks, and were armed with lances and bows; they kept an almost continual shouting, and seemed rather inclined for war than peace.
When the boats returned on board, the officer reported, that the sea broke on all parts of the coast, that he had found only one small river, that the land is every where covered with wood, and that the mountains run down close to the sea-shore.
The natives dwell on the mountains, but they have a few huts on the banks of some of the small creeks.—Some of them followed one of the ship’s boats, and seemed almost resolved on an attack; and one of the Indians repeatedly put himself in an attitude to have thrown his lance; but he desisted from his purpose, and no mischief was done.
Mons. Bougainville says, that he was now advanced too far to return; but that he hoped to find a passage, though the weather was so foggy that he could not discern any object at the distance of more than two leagues.
In the morning of the 1st of July, the ships were just in the station they had quitted the preceding night, having been impelled forward, and driven back, by the tides.
Nothing remarkable happened but the discovery of a Race, in the middle of a passage, to which was given the name of Dennis’s Race, from that of the master of the Boudeuse.
A race is a part of any channel or streight, where there are opposing tides, or a rapid and dangerous current; and such are even sometimes met with in the open seas.
Boats were now sent to find anchorage in a fine bay; and the account of their expedition is as follows.—That a number of Indian boats, in which were a hundred and fifty of the natives, armed with shields, lances, and bows, came from the banks of a rivulet on which their habitations were situated, and rowed hastily towards the French boats, which they surrounded, and, with hideous outcries, began the attack with their bows and lances. The French discharged their muskets; but the natives covering themselves with their shields, the fight continued, till a second firing terrified them so, that they made a hasty retreat, some of them swimming on shore.
Two of their boats were taken, on the stern of which was the figure of a man’s head with a long beard, the eyes being mother-of-pearl, the ears tortoiseshell, and the lips were dyed a bright red. Exclusive of their weapons and utensils, there were found in their boats cocoa-nuts, and several fruits, the species of which were not known, the jaw of a man, half broiled, and various other things.
The natives of this coast are negroes, whose hair curls naturally, and they have a method of colouring it yellow, red, and white. Their cloathing consists only of a piece of matting round the waist. This river received the name of Warrior’s River, and the whole spot, that of the Isle and Bay of Choiseul.
Two days afterwards a cape was discovered, which was called Cape L’Averdi, on which were mountains of an astonishing height. On the 4th other mountainous land was discovered, from which came off five or six Indians, and, after lying on their oars some time, they accepted some trifles which were thrown to them. They now exhibited some cocoa-nuts, saying, bouca, bouca, onelle! and seemed greatly pleased when the French repeated them. They then intimated, that they would fetch some cocoa-nuts, but they had scarcely left the ship’s side, when one of them discharged an arrow, by which, however, no person was wounded.
The people were altogether naked, had long ears, bored, and curled short hair, which some of them had dyed red, and they had also white spots on their bodies. Their teeth were red, probably from the chewing of betel.
This island, which was named Bouka, appeared to be cultivated, and, from the number of huts that were seen, it probably abounds with inhabitants.—The cocoa-nut, and other trees, dispersed over a beautiful plain, was a sufficient temptation for landing; but the rapidity of the current prevented the possibility of it.
Two more islands were seen on the 5th, and, as the wood and water were expended, and disease reigning aboard, the Commodore resolved to land here, and, on the following afternoon, the ships came to an anchor. The casks were sent on shore, and tents erected for the sick, on a commodious spot, where there were four rivulets near together, and where wood for the carpenters and joiners use, as well as for burning, was very plenty; there were no inhabitants near the place, so that the sick had an opportunity of ranging the woods, fearless of any attack from the natives, and every thing seemed to conspire to render this spot the most eligible imaginable; but there was one great inconvenience, no fruit could be found.
Two huts were discovered on the bank of a rivulet, not far from the encampment, and a boat, near which were seen the remains of fires, some calcined shells, and the skeletons of some animals heads, which were taken for those of the wild boar. Some fresh bananas were found, which proves, that the natives had but lately left the place.
This island produces a large, blue crested pigeon, which has so plaintive a note, that the seamen mistook it for the cries of men towards the mountains.
Mons. Bougainville now relates an extraordinary incident. A seaman being looking for shells, found a plate of lead buried in the sand, on which the following letters were very visible.
HOR’D HERE ICK MAJESTY’s
The mark of the nails with which the lead had been fastened appeared; and it is plain, that the natives must have torn off the plate and broken it.
This circumstance gave rise to a diligent search, and, at about six miles from the watering-place, the very spot was found where the English had formed their encampment. Several trees were seen which had been felled, and others which were sawn in pieces. A very large and conspicuous tree was found, on which the inscription had been nailed; it stood in the midst of a spacious place, and it appeared, that the plate had been pulled down but a very short time. There were other trees, to which the ends of ropes were fastened. One of the trees which had been cut down had put forth fresh twigs, apparently of the growth of four months. Mons. Bougainville mentions it as a very singular circumstance, that, amidst so many islands, he should happen to land on that so lately visited by a rival nation!
Diligent search was now made for food and refreshments, but almost in vain; for nothing could be found but a few cabbage-trees, and thatch-palms. No fish could be catched, and, though a few wild boars were seen, not one of them was taken. A small number of pigeons were indeed shot, the feathers of which were of green and gold.
It will be needless to mention the other products of this island, as the reader has already had an account of them in the narrative of the English voyages.
No time was now lost in the necessary repairs of the ships; and an equal division was made of the provisions, which now began to run extremely short. A third part of the late allowance of pease was taken off. From the Commodore to the lowest person on board, all fared alike: their situation, like death, banished all distinction.
On the 13th there was an eclipse of the sun, which was clearly seen, and the proper astronomical and nautical remarks made on it. The name of Port Praslin was given to this harbour, an inscription having been first buried under the spot where the eclipse had been observed.
The Etoile being a light vessel, and there being no stones to ballast her, after the provisions had been taken out, this important business was necessarily performed with wood; a fatiguing and unwholesome task, in so damp a country.
An insect of a most wonderful texture was found on this island, the body and wings of which appeared so much like the leaf of a tree, as scarcely to be distinguished from it, even on a nice inspection. When the wings are extended, each forms the half of a leaf, and when they are closed it is entire. The upper side of the body is of a brighter hue than the under parts; and it has six legs, the upper joints of which resemble parts of leaves. This curiosity was preserved in spirits, and is in the cabinet of the French King.
A sailor who was hauling the fishing-net, in search of a scarce fish called the hammer-oyster, having been bit by a snake, whose bite is poisonous, was cured in a few hours by a profuse perspiration, produced by taking flower-de-luce water and treacle.
Aotourou having remarked the progress of the cure, intimated, that at Otaheite there were sea-snakes, whose bite is mortal in every instance.
On the 22d repeated shocks of an earthquake were felt for about two minutes. The sea rose and fell several times, so that the concussions were felt on board the ships.
Notwithstanding the extreme bad weather which prevailed, the crews, divided into separate parties, went to the woods every day, in hopes to shoot some turtle-doves, and gather cabbage-trees and thatch-palms; but it generally happened, that they returned without any success, and wet to the skin. At length, however, they found some mangle apples, and a kind of pruens; but too late to be of much service, as they were now on the point of departure. A kind of ivy was successfully applied in the cure of the scurvy.
An immense cascade was seen, falling from numerous rocks into a hundred basons of water, and at once shaded and adorned by stately trees, some of which grow even in the reservoirs, is recommended by Mons. Bougainville as a subject fit to exercise the fancy of the boldest painter—Why did not his limner make a drawing of it?
The situation of the ships companies now became so dreadful, that no more time could be lost.—In the afternoon of the 24th a favourable breeze enabled the ships to get out to sea.
Mons. Bougainville remarks, that this country must be New Britain, and that the great bay must be the same which Dampier calls St. George’s Bay; but that he had the happiness to land on a part of it where his wants could be supplied by the inhabitants.
A succession of islands having been seen in the offing, Mons. Bougainville named them after the officers.—The field-tents were now cut up, to make trowsers for the seamen, who had been repeatedly clothed during the voyage, to enable them to sustain the inclemencies of so many different climates. But the last change of cloathing was now delivered out, and at this period an ounce of bread was deducted from their scanty allowance. Their salt provisions were now so bad, as to be nauseous in a high degree; yet their starving situation impelled them to feed on them; but even at this melancholy period, no one yielded himself a prey to melancholy. The sailors, influenced by the example of the officers, employed every evening in dancing, dispelling, by their mirth, some of the pangs of hunger.—Happy Frenchmen! who could be thus mirthful, in the jaws of apparent destruction!
New Britain continued in sight till the beginning of August, when the ships being nearer the land than they had been before, several Indian boats came off, the crews of which were negroes, with woolly heads, which they had covered with white powder. They are tall and active, and wore no other cloaths than leaves round the middle. They held out something that had the appearance of bread, and invited the French to land; but they refused to enter the ships, though an attempt was made to conciliate their friendship, by presents of some pieces of stuff. They accepted what was given, and threw a stone from a sling in return; instantly retreating, with loud vociferations.
On the following day a larger number assembled along side the Boudeuse; a person, who had the appearance of authority, carried a red staff, knobbed at each end, in his hand. On approaching the ship, he held his hands over his head for a considerable time. The hair of these negroes was painted red; some of them were adorned with feathers, ear-rings made of the seed of some herb, or circular plates depending from their necks; others had the nose pierced, and rings ran through it; but the general ornament was a bracelet made of the half of a shell. The French were anxious to conciliate the esteem of these people, but in vain; they eagerly grasped at whatever was given them, but would make no present in return. The roots of a few yams were all that could be obtained from them. Two of their boats being observed approaching in the night, a rocket was fired, on which they instantly rowed off.
On the 31st a number of Indian boats attacked the Etoile with a volley of stones and arrows; but a single discharge of the musquetry got rid for ever of these troublesome companions.
On the 4th of August two islands were seen, which are conjectured to be the same which Dampier distinguishes by the name of Matthias and Stormy, or Squally, Island. On the 5th a third island was seen, and then the northern point of New Britain, which lies only forty one minutes south of the land.
On the 7th a flat island was seen, covered with trees, abounding with cocoa-nuts, and certainly well inhabited, as appeared from the great number of houses that were seen on the shore. Fishing-boats in multitudes surrounded the island; but the fishermen took no notice of the ships. This received the name of the Isle of Anchorets. On the following day a prodigious number of small islands was seen, when Mons. Bougainville having escaped the most imminent dangers, in the endeavour to double this chain of islands, at length happily effected his point, in consequence of a breeze which still freshened with the rising sun.
He now continued to range the coast till he came within sight of two lofty peaks, to which he gave the name of the two Cyclops. On the 15th two high mountains were discovered on the continent, and two small islands near them.
On the 23d two other islands being discovered, an attempt was made to land, in the hope of obtaining refreshments; but this was found impracticable, but by the boats, the Commanding officer of which reported, that the islands were totally uninhabited, and that no fruits grew which were fit to be eaten.
This day the ships crews were twice alarmed; the first time with a report from aloft, that a range of breakers were seen a-head; but this proved to be only the rippling of a strong tide; the second alarm was from the fore-castle, where it was declared, that the bottom of the sea was visible under the ship’s way. This shoal was perceived by the crew of the Etoile, but was easily escaped by both the ships. Monsieur Denys, first Master of the Boudeuse, died this day of the scurvy, to the infinite regret of the whole ship’s company. At this time upwards of forty persons were ill of the same disorder, the progress of which was stopped by the plentiful use of wine and lemonade.
It was now thought necessary to stear a southerly course, in order to get clear of the islands by which they were surrounded. None of these islands appeared to be inhabited, though all of them were cloathed with verdure. During the following night they sailed out of this labyrinth, through a channel about three leagues in breadth. Early in the morning they doubled the southernmost of a number of small islands on each side of this channel, which was denominated the French Passage. On the 26th, in the morning, they passed the meridian for the fifth time, and early the next day had sight of a small island to the south-east; they likewise saw a steep hill, remarkably high, to which they gave the name of Big Thomas; near which are three small islands.
They had sight of several islands on the 27th and 28th, when Mons. Bougainville gave orders for a boat belonging to the Etoile to steer to the south-westernmost of these isles in search of anchorage, and to enquire if they produced any thing worthy of notice. The boat having landed on two islands, which neither produced any fruits, nor appeared to be cultivated, and indicated no signs of being inhabited, the ship was on the point of returning, when an Indian rowed up to the ship’s boat, without expressing the least sign of fear or astonishment. The Frenchmen intimated, that they wanted food and liquor; on which he presented them with a kind of meal, and some water; in return for which they gave him a looking-glass, a handkerchief, and some other trifles, which he received with indifference, and laughed at the donors. It was conjectured, that this negroe had deserted from one of the adjacent islands which have been settled by the Dutch. The number of them were formerly seven, but they are now reduced to five by earthquakes. The crew of the Boudeuse took a turtle on this spot of not less than two hundred weight.
Early in the morning of the 31st our voyagers had sight of the island of Ceram, which runs in a parallel east and west, abounds in lofty mountains, and is partly cleared, and partly in its original state. A great number of fires were seen on this island, which seem to intimate that it is well peopled. Early in the morning, on the first of September, our adventurers found themselves at the entrance of a bay, on the banks of which they beheld a number of fires; they soon observed two boats under sail, constructed on the plan of those of Malay. A Dutch pendant was now hoisted, and a gun fired but the Commodore confesses his error in this procedure, as the people at Ceram are at variance with the Dutch, whom they have almost totally routed from their island. Mons. Bougainville having been thus unsuccessful, through mistake, returned from the bay, and employed the rest of the day in plying between the islands Bonao, Kelang, and Manepo.
Some time before midnight, a number of fires attracted their attention to the island of Boero, where there is a Dutch factory, well provided with the necessary refreshments.
The above-mentioned Dutch factory is at the entrance of the Gulph of Cajeli, which the French had sight of at day-break. Their joy on this occasion is not to be expressed; for at this time not half of the seamen were able to perform any duty; and the scurvy had raged so violently, that no man on board was perfectly clear of it. What few provisions were on board were absolutely rotten, and stunk intolerably.
Thus circumstanced, their change of situation must have been rapturous indeed! From midnight the fragrant breeze had wafted the aromatic flavour of the plants, which abound in the Moluccas. “The aspect (says our author) of a pretty large town, situated in the bottom of a gulph, of ships at anchor there, and cattle rambling through the meadows, caused transports which I have doubtless felt, but which I cannot here describe.” Our Commodore hoisted Dutch colours, and fired a gun; but though several boats were sailing in the bay, none of them came along-side. In a few hours a periagua, rowed by Indians, advanced towards the ship, and the commanding officer enquired in Dutch who they were; but refused to go on board. Mons. Bougainville, however, proceeded under all his sails, and in the afternoon came to an anchor opposite the factory.
Two Dutch soldiers, one of whom spoke French, now came on board the Boudeuse, demanding the reason of the Commodore’s entering that port, when he must know that the ships of the Dutch East India Company had an exclusive right to that privilege. He was answered, in brief, that necessity was the motive; that hunger must preclude the force of treaties, and that they would depart as soon as their wants were supplied.
The soldiers soon returned with the copy of an order from the Governor of Amboyna, who presides over the Resident at Boero, forbidding him to admit foreign ships into that port. The Resident, therefore, entreated Mons. Bougainville to declare, in writing, the cause of his putting in there; that he might transmit such declaration to the Governor of Amboyna, in justification of his own conduct.
This request being complied with, all difficulties were at an end; the Resident having performed his duty as a servant of the Company, was anxious to discharge the superior duties of humanity. The Commodore and his Officers visited him on shore, were received in the most friendly manner, and accepted his invitation to supper.
The Resident and his company beheld with equal pleasure and surprize the effects that hunger had on the appetites of the guests; nor were they willing to eat themselves, least they should deprive their now too happy visitants of their full share of their repast. Mons. Bougainville confesses, that he was supremely happy, because he had previously sent on board what would be an equal feast to both the ships companies. A contract was now made, that, while the ships should remain in that harbour, venison should be daily supplied to the crews, that eighteen oxen, a number of sheep and poultry, and a quantity of rice (to supply the place of bread) should be put on board. The Resident was likewise obliging enough to furnish the sick with a quantity of pulse from the Company’s garden; but much could not be obtained, as it is not generally cultivated on the island.
The sick were now brought on shore, and the majority of the seamen were likewise indulged in walking about for their health and pleasure. The Commodore hired the slaves belonging to the Company to fill the water casks, and to carry the several necessaries on board.
Mons. Bougainville and his officers were gratified with the pleasure of stag hunting, and he mentions the deer of this country as most exquisite food. The Dutch originally transported them hither. This island is described as a delightful composition of woods, hills, plains, and well-watered vallies.
The town of Cajeli, and about fourteen Indian dwellings, formed the Dutch settlement. A stone fort, which the Dutch had originally erected, was accidentally blown up in the year 1689; since which time it has no enclosure but that of palisadoes, with a battery of six small cannons. About fifty white people are all that reside on the island, of whom a Serjeant and twenty-five men, commanded by the Resident, form a part. The negroes who reside in the interior parts of the country subsist by the cultivation of rice.
The Moors and the Alfourians are the genuine natives of this country; the former are protected by the Dutch factory, who endeavour to inspire them with the dread of all foreigners. These people are principally kept in awe by the influence of their own Chiefs, for whom the Dutch Resident professes a sincere regard. Dutch policy, in this, as in all their other settlements, is the same; by fomenting a jealousy among the Chiefs of their respective dependants, a plot is no sooner formed by one Chief, than it is revealed by another. The natives of Boero are not treated as slaves by the Dutch; their slaves being procured from the islands of Ceram, or Celebes.
Unlimited freedom and independence appear to reign among the Alfourians, who, residing on the mountains in the interior parts of the island subsist on the produce of their hunting, with fruits and sago. It is presumed they are not Mahometans, because they eat swines flesh. The principal people among the Alfourians pay occasional visits to the Dutch Resident; “they would do as well (says our author) to stay at home.”
The chief products of this island are various kinds of wood, particularly black and white ebony; and there is a fine plantation of pepper. The fruits are pine-apples, citrons, lemons, bitter oranges, shaddocks, bananas and cocoa-nuts. Very good barley is likewise a produce of this country.
Parrots, and a variety of other birds, many of them extremely beautiful, abound in the woods. There is likewise the wild cat, whose bag under the belly serves for the conveyance of its young. Bats, and serpents of an enormous size, the latter of which are said to have a swallow capacious enough for the reception of a whole sheep. There is a snake too, which, posting itself on the trees, darts into the eye of the passenger who happens to look up, and the bite of this animal is certain death.
Crocodiles of an astonishing size reside on the banks of the rivers, devouring such beasts as fall in their way; and men are only protected from their fury by carrying torches in their hands. Mons. Bougainville asserts, that these crocodiles, which roam for prey in the night, have been even known to seize people in their boats.
The name of the Resident at Buero is Ouman; he is by birth a Batavian, and is married to a native of Amboyna. He lives in great elegance and splendour, and is attended by no less than a hundred slaves. Mons. Bougainville speaks of his politeness and hospitality in very high terms. After having twice regaled the French Officers in the ceremonious way, he bid adieu to all set forms, but his house was constantly open to them, as their own; they always found good viands and liquors, and our author thinks this was no inconsiderable degree of civility to persons who had so lately been on the point of starving.
The Resident’s house is constructed in the Chinese taste, in the middle of a garden, which is intersected by a river: the house itself is a handsome building, and it is elegantly furnished. Its approach is through an avenue of trees, which are planted down to the sea-side. The wife and daughter were habited in the Chinese manner, and were no way deficient in the essential requisites of good breeding. Their chief employment consists in making nosegays, and selecting flowers proper for distillation.
The astonishment of Aotourou, at this first sight of an European settlement, may be more easily conceived than described. He regarded every object with an intenseness of curiosity scarcely to be satisfied; but he was particularly charmed with the hospitality of the Dutch. He supposed every thing freely given, as he did not see any thing returned by way of barter. Mons. Bougainville says, that he behaved sensibly with respect to the Dutch, to whom he intimated the consequence he was of in his own country, and that his present voyage was merely pleasurable with friends whom he esteemed. His constant practice was to imitate the manners of the French, both in their visits, and in their rural amusements. The knees of this Indian being distorted, he attributed, to that circumstance, his not being taken with the Commodore on his first visit to the Resident, and actually desired some of the seamen to press their weight on his knees, to make them strait.—This, surely, is no great proof of that good sense which Mons. Bougainville has frequently hinted that Aotourou was possessed of!—This islander would frequently enquire if Paris was as grand a place as Boero.
Though the French were only six days on shore, the healthful air of the place had so far recovered the sick, that, by the help of the refreshments now ready to be put on board, it was very possible to perfect the cure at sea.
The sick people were conveyed to the ships in the morning of the 7th, and before evening every one was on board, in expectation of the land breeze, by which, after much difficulty in weighing the anchor, they were enabled to sail about an hour before midnight, and got clear of the gulph of Cajeli before morning.
Mons. Bougainville now proceeds to a recital of the incidents which occurred during his passage from Boero to Batavia, in which we shall trace him with all necessary exactness.
Having coasted the island of Boero, the isles of Manipa and Kilang were seen on the morning of the 8th, and on the 9th they had sight of the island of Xullabessic, where the Dutch have a factory, named Cleverblad, that is, the Clover-leaf. There is a garrison, consisting of twenty-five men, under the discipline of a Serjeant, and commanded by a person who holds no higher rank than book-keeper to the Dutch East India Company.
On the 10th the Commodore buried his taylor, who fell a sacrifice to the scurvy, encreased, when on the point of cure, by an excessive drinking of brandy.
On the morning of the 11th they had sight of the island of Wawoni, and in a few hours saw that of Button, the streights of which they entered on the following day, and observed a vessel of a square form, ranging the shore, and towing a periagua. The French ships were no sooner observed by this vessel, than she furled her sail, and concealed herself behind a small island. A French seaman, whom Mons. Bougainville had engaged at Boero, said, that the vessel in question was manned by a set of Indian pirates, who made a practice of taking prisoners, in order to sell them.
In the afternoon the ships sailed by a beautiful port on the coast of Celebes, the view of which land is delightfully variegated by mountains, hills, and vallies, and clothed with an exuberance of verdure. In a few hours afterwards the island of Pangasani was in sight, to the northward of which appeared the highest mountains of Celebes. Pangasani is a flat island, abounding in trees, and our author conjectures, that it produces spices; it is, however, certain, that it is well inhabited, from the number of fires that were seen on it during the night.
On the morning of the 13th the ships were surrounded with Indian boats, bringing parroquets, cockatoes, fowls, eggs, and bananas, which the natives sold for Dutch money, or exchanged for knives. These people were inhabitants of a considerable district on the mountains of Button, opposite the place where the ships lay at anchor. On this spot the land is cleared and cultivated, the property of different persons, being divided by ditches. Some of the fields are enclosed by hedges, and there are houses in these fields; besides which there are several villages.
The produce of the country consists in potatoes, yams, rice, maize, &c. and the bananas are deemed as good as in any part of the world. Pine-apples, mangle apples, cocoa-nuts, and citrons, are very plentiful. The natives are of a brown complexion, ordinary features, and of low stature. They profess the Mahometan faith, and speak the language common in the Molucca isles. They are very honest, though expert traders.—They offered Mons. Bougainville some pieces of coarse cotton cloth; but he does not say whether he dealt with them or not; he asked them for some nutmegs, which they said they procured from the island of Ceram, and in the neighbourhood of Banda; and his remark is, that the Dutch cannot supply them from those places.
Our author describes the coast of Pangasani as rising in the form of an amphitheatre, from the level of the coast, which he imagines is frequently overflowed, because the dwellings of the natives were observed to be situated on the slope of the hills. The people of Button consider the inhabitants of Pangasani as pirates, and each party is provided against the attacks of the other by a dagger, which is always worn, stuck in the girdle.
The ships sailed on the morning of the 14th, but coming to an anchor in a few hours afterwards, a number of periaguas surrounded the Boudeuse, one of which hoisting Dutch colours, the rest retreated, that she might come along side. It appeared, that in this boat was one of the Chiefs of the country, to whom alone the Dutch permit the distinction of carrying their colours.
Our Commodore sailed again on the 15th, and in the afternoon of that day dispatched his barge after a boat which was seen in a large bay, with a view to procure a pilot; and the boat readily came, having an Indian on board, who, for thirteen shillings, readily engaged in the pilotage: but his intended services were rendered unnecessary, by the sun happening to shine with great lustre on a spot which directed their passing out of the channel.
As opposing winds and tides now obliged the ships to come to an anchor, the periaguas came off in great numbers, bringing pieces of cotton, articles of curiosity, and variety of refreshments. At the approach of evening the ships got clear of the narrow pass, and anchored in Bouton Bay.
Mons. Bougainville gives an animated description of the passage he had just cleared. The coast of Button abounds in enclosures proper for the catching fish, while the rising grounds are bespread with habitations. The opposite shore is perpendicular; and after passing the galley, both sides are steep, hanging in some places over the channel. “One would think (says our author,) that the god of the sea had opened a passage here for the swelled waters, by a stroke of his trident.”—Might he not as well have said, that the great God of Nature is equally wise and wonderful in all his works?—The coast of Pangasani has two or three houses on it, though it is little else than a solid rock, yet well cloathed with trees.
The Indian pilot above-mentioned gave the best instructions in his power, respecting the mode of passing this gut; but he appeared totally unskilled in the European art of navigation. Another Indian, supposed to be the pilot’s father, went on board the Boudeuse in the morning, and remained till the evening. They both drank plentifully of brandy, but would eat only bananas and chew betel, absolutely refusing to taste of the ship’s provisions.