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An historical account of all the voyages round the world, performed by English navigators, vol. 3 of 4

Captain CARTERET’s VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, In 1766, 1767, 1768 and 1769.

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Mr. Carteret having already circumnavigated the globe with Commodore Byron, was appointed to the command of the Swallow sloop, soon after his return to England; and, on the 22d of August 1766, sailed from Plymouth, in company with his Majesty’s ship the Dolphin, and the Prince Frederick store-ship.

Nothing material happened till the morning of the 9th of September, (when the ship lay in the road of Madeira) at which time nine prime seamen left the vessel privately, and swam on shore naked, having only their money tied in handkerchiefs round their bodies. While Captain Carteret was writing to the Consul to assist him in the recovery of these brave, but imprudent fellows, he received a message, that they had been found naked on the shore. A boat was instantly dispatched to bring them on board, where they cut a most ridiculous figure, and seemed heartily ashamed of what they had done: it appeared, however, that they had ran this risk only to get a skinful of liquor (as they said) knowing they were bound on a long voyage, and it being uncertain who might live or die. Captain Carteret endeared himself very much to the crew by pardoning these men, whose future services amply repaid this well-timed lenity.

It will be needless to recite any particulars which happened till the 11th of April, when the Swallow parted company with the Dolphin and Prince Frederick, as already related in the account of Captain Wallis’s Voyage. At nine o’clock on this day the Swallow had totally lost sight of the Dolphin, which Captain Carteret judged to be then clear of the mouth of the Streights; and as the Swallow was then under land, where she had not the advantage of any considerable breeze, they entertained no hope of seeing their consort during the remainder of the voyage.

At this time all the cloth, linen, cutlery wares and trinkets were on board the Dolphin; a circumstance which aggravated Captain Carteret’s distress, as he had not any thing proper to barter with the Indians; yet he encouraged the crew not to despair; and was happy to find that they were in high spirits for the voyage.

A few hours after the ships parted company, the Swallow encountered a violent storm, during which there was so thick a fog, that they could not see mountainous land which they were within half a mile of. At this time the boat was out in search of an anchoring-place; and when night came on, it was so dark, that they could not see half the length of the ship: they therefore hoisted lights, and fired a gun every half hour; and at length the boat reached the ship in safety. The next morning the boat was again sent in search of a place to anchor in, and in the afternoon, when the Captain despaired of her returning in time, he saw her sounding a bay, and instantly making towards her, came to anchor in safety.

The Captain now retired to rest, but he was disturbed in a few minutes by the shouting of the crew upon the deck, and the noise of those below running to join them. His fears brought him instantly on the deck, where he heard the universal cry of the Dolphin! the Dolphin! but this flattering appearance soon vanished, and proved to be only water forced up, and whirled in the air by a gust of wind from the mountains. Mr. Carteret says, that as the current sets continually into the harbour where they lay, he has no doubt but it has another communication with the sea to the south of Deseada. The borders of the bay abound with muscles and wild geese, and afford plenty of wood and water.

They sailed from this place early in the morning of the 15th of April, and soon afterwards, by the sudden shifting of the wind, they encountered so violent a storm, that they were in danger of sinking; yet they did not dare to take in any sails, for fear of running foul of some rocky islands, which in Narborough’s Voyage are called the Islands of Direction; nor could they go back into the Streight, without the danger of running foul of a lee-shore; yet, notwithstanding their best endeavours, the ship made hastily towards this lee-shore. Thus circumstanced, they were compelled to stave the water-casks on and between the decks, that she might carry better sail; and by this expedient they at length escaped the threatened destruction. They now got into the open sea, after a very providential deliverance, for, had the wind again shifted, the ship must have been unavoidably lost.

They now steered a northward course along the Coast of Chili; but as the water on board was deemed insufficient for the length of the voyage, the Captain proposed touching at the Island of Juan Fernandes, or Masafuero, to take in a proper quantity. On the 18th the wind, which had hitherto been favourable for their sailing northward, and consequently getting into a more temperate climate, suddenly shifted, and continued contrary till the 18th of April, blowing violently all the time, accompanied at intervals with dreadful thunder, lightning, rain and hail.

During this time they saw abundance of sea-birds, among which were two sorts, one like a pigeon, which the seamen called the Cape of Good Hope Hen; and the other Mother Carey’s Chickens; but the true name of these latter is the Peterel.

From the 27th of this month till the 1st of May they had continual storms; and on this day a prodigious sea laid the whole ship under water for some time, while the wind blew a hurricane, and the rain poured down in torrents. The wind now shifted, so that the head of the vessel came right against a mountainous sea, which repeatedly broke over the forecastle as far as the main-mast, so that it was almost a miracle that she was not sunk.

When the weather became something more moderate, they repaired in some degree the damage the ship had sustained during the storm; but they had much bad weather afterwards till the 9th of May, when they were in sight of the Island of Masafuero: and on the 10th they saw Juan Fernandes, and sailed round to Cumberland Bay, on the east-side of it.

The Spaniards having fortified this island (a circumstance till then unknown to Captain Carteret) a number of men were seen on the shore, and two large boats lying on the beach. A house and four pieces of cannon were observed near the sea side, and on the brow of a hill, at a small distance, was a fort with Spanish colours flying on it. Many cattle were seen on the hills, and above 20 houses on different parts of the island. The wind blew so strong out of the bay, that it was impossible to get very near it: they therefore sailed westward, and were followed by one of the Spanish boats; but she soon returned, on observing that the wind kept them out of the harbour. On the eastern side of the west bay they saw a kind of guard-house, with two pieces of cannon, on carriages, near it. They now returned towards Cumberland Bay, when the boat again put after them; but night coming on, they lost sight of her. As Captain Carteret had only English colours on board, he did not hoist any during all this time.

Thus disappointed of the refreshments they so very much wanted, they sailed for Masafuero, where they anchored on the 12th, but were unable to land, as the beach was full of rocks, and the surf ran so violently, that the best swimmers could not get through the breakers: the next morning, however, the boats landed, and filled some water-casks.

On the 15th they anchored on the east-side of the island; but were driven from their moorings, and kept out at sea all night. In the morning the cutter was sent for water, and the ship got near the shore, where she soon received several casks, and sent the cutter back for more. The long-boat was likewise dispatched on this service, as well as to carry provisions to those on shore. In the afternoon the boats being observed running along the shore, the ship followed and took them in, but not without their sustaining so much damage by the violence of the sea, that the carpenters were obliged to work all night in repairing them.

On the 17th the cutter was again sent for water; and, when she returned, the Lieutenant reported, that the violent rains which had fallen in the night, had brought down such a deluge of water, that the people on shore narrowly escaped drowning, after losing several of the casks. Mr. Gower, the Lieutenant, having seen many rivulets of water produced by the rain which had fallen in the night, proposed to go and fill the casks; but he had not been long gone, before the weather began to wear a very threatening appearance, and it thundered and lightned to a degree beyond description. The ship now kept as near the shore as possible, and as it was grown quite dark, they were very apprehensive that the long-boat was lost, but she happily came a-longside just in time to prevent the destruction of her whole crew; for she had scarce been hoisted over the ship’s side a moment, before such a violent squall came on, as must inevitably have sunk her. Mr. Gower reported, that three of the sailors having swam on shore with the casks, just before the storm began, he was under a necessity, however unwilling, of leaving them behind, exposed, naked as they were, to thunder, lightning, rain and hunger.

These men returned to the ship, on the evening of the 19th, and gave an account how they had passed the melancholy interval.⁠—While day-light continued they hoped for an opportunity of regaining the boat; but when the darkness and cold of the night advanced, they began to consider how they should abide the inclemency of the weather; when necessity suggested an expedient that ingenuity might have sought in vain:⁠—they laid, alternately, each between the two other, thus procuring at once the partial comforts of a house and a fire. As soon as the day broke they proceeded by the sea-shore towards the tent: but being repeatedly impeded by high points of land, they swam round them, at such a distance, to avoid the rocks, that they were scarcely in less danger from the sharks: happily, however, they escaped every danger, and were received at the watering-place with a degree of pleasure that does honour to the humanity of their brother tars; part of whose cloths and provisions were instantly appropriated to feed the hungry and clothe the naked. When these men returned on board, they were indulged with a whole night’s rest, and the next morning were perfectly well. The reader will no doubt be pleased to be informed, that these were three of the nine men who swam ashore at Madeira, for a skinful of liquor.

This day such a quantity of fish was taken by the boat, with hooks and lines only, as was equal to the consumption of the whole crew. On the 20th the ship, which had been some time standing off and on near the shore, came again to an anchor, when the long-boat being sent out, procured, in a short time, an ample supply of fish. During the night, and all the following day, they had extreme bad weather; but, as soon as it became moderately calm, three seamen were sent on shore to kill seals, and make oil of their fat, for the use of the lamps.

On the 22d in the morning (after a stormy night) the boats being sent on shore, returned with a number of pintado birds, which were obtained from the inhabitants, who said that, when the wind blew briskly in the night, these birds flew into the fire in amazing numbers; so that they catched several hundreds the preceding night. On the 23d as much water was got off as the weather would permit of, but several casks were lost by the violence of the surf. The weather now grew so bad that the Captain was impatient to sail: he therefore gave orders for all the people on shore to come on board. At this time the ship drove from her moorings, dragging the anchor after her, till she got into deep water. They now lay to under bare poles, waiting for the boats, while the violence of the wind carried the water higher than the mast-head. In the evening the long-boat with ten of the men were taken on board; but there yet remained the cutter, with the Lieutenant and eighteen men. The weather becoming more moderate about midnight, the ship stood in for land, and at ten the next morning was near the shore, but the cutter was not to be seen; about noon however she was discovered close under land, and in three hours time her crew got on board. These people endeavoured to come off in the evening, but had no sooner left the shore than their cutter was almost filled with water, and narrowly escaped sinking: at length she regained the shore, where she remained all night: in the morning it was concluded, that the ship had perished in the storm, and the crew, having taken proper methods to secure the boat, proposed to wait till the summer, when they hoped she might be able to carry them to the Island of Juan Fernandes:⁠—but these thoughts were now lost in the joy of their happy deliverance.

The island of Masafuero is of a triangular form, about 22 miles in circumference, and, at a distance, has the appearance of a single rock; there is good anchorage on many parts of the coast, and the island abounds with goats. Wood and water are plenty, but difficult to be procured, on account of the violence of the surf. Cod, hallibut, coal-fish, and cray-fish are to be catched in great numbers; and seals are so numerous, that Captain Carteret thinks, the killing of thousands could make no apparent difference in their numbers. The mountain cabbage grows on the island, which likewise abounds in birds, among which are hawks of a very large size.

Captain Carteret having left the Island of Masafuero, sailed to the north, with the hope of getting the south-east trade-wind; and, having got more to the north than he first proposed, he looked out for the Islands of St. Ambrose and St. Felix, which he missed through the erroneous printed accounts of their latitudes and longitudes. They likewise searched for the continent, which in the charts is called Davis’s Land; but which Mr. Carteret gives many reasons for supposing has no existence.

This search was continued till the 17th of June, which is the depth of winter, when the weather was dark and cold, with sleet, rain, thunder and lightning. The gloom was so constant, that they had seldom sun-shine enough to make an observation, yet were necessitated to carry all the sail possible, that they might not perish with hunger before the ship should reach some port, where they might procure a supply of necessaries.

On the 2d of July they discovered an island, which was well clothed with trees, and down the side of which ran a stream of fresh water. It appeared to be about five miles in circumference, and was called Pitcairn’s Island, from the name of a young gentleman who first saw it.

On the 4th the ship admitted a great quantity of water, and was otherwise in a very shattered condition, from the rough seas she had encountered. The crew now likewise began to be much afflicted with the scurvy; though they were, happily, well supplied with water, an abundance of the rain-water being catched by means of an awning lined with painted canvas.

On the 11th Captain Carteret gave the name of the Bishop of Osnaburgh’s Island, to a low piece of land discovered this day, which was well cloathed with verdure. On the 12th they saw two other small islands, on one of which the boat’s crew landed, and found birds so tame, as to be taken without the least difficulty. The other island was about 15 miles distance; but neither of them afforded either water or vegetables. They were called the Duke of Gloucester’s Islands; and Captain Carteret supposes them to be the same land which was seen by Quiros.

From this period till the 22d of the month they had alternate storms and calms; and on this day judged themselves five thousand four hundred miles from the continent of America; yet in all this run they had seen no signs of a southern continent.

As the scurvy was now daily encreasing among the seamen; and as the weather was bad, and the ship in a crazy condition, the Captain determined to steer such a course as might most probably tend to the preservation of the vessel and the crew. In consequence of this resolution he stood to the northward, in the hope of having the advantage of the trade-wind, and reaching some island, where he might be furnished with the necessary refreshments.

On the 25th they saw great flocks of birds, which induced them to think that they were near land, but they could not discover any. On the 3d of August great numbers of sea-birds were seen; and on this day the current was observed to set strongly to the southward, though it had hitherto ran in a contrary direction; whence the Captain concluded, that the passage between New Zealand and New Holland opened in this latitude, which was ten degrees eighteen minutes south, and the longitude 177 degrees 30 minutes east.

On the 10th of this month the ship sprung a leak, in a part which they could not come at to repair; so that their situation was truly alarming; but two days afterwards they discovered land, which gave fresh spirits to the almost desponding crew. The Captain observed seven islands, and sailed towards two of them, which lay very near together: in the evening they came to an anchor near the largest of them, on which were seen two of the natives, who were negroes, with woolly heads, and wore no kind of clothing.

A boat being sent on shore, an account was brought back that there was fine fresh water opposite where the ship lay, but that it would be difficult to procure it, as the whole country was covered with thick wood quite to the sea shore. This circumstance, added to the danger there might be of the natives attacking them from the woods, determined the Captain to look for a more convenient anchoring-place.⁠—On the day following, therefore, the cutter, with the master and a party of seamen, was sent to the westward, to search for a place to procure wood and water, to seek for refreshments for the sick, and to discover a place where the ship might be repaired. He received orders to be strictly on his guard against any attack from the natives, and took with him a few trinkets that happened to be on board, to procure their good will. The longboat being likewise sent off, she soon returned laden with water: she was dispatched a second time, but the people on board the ship observing some of the natives advancing to the landing-place, a signal was made for her to return.

Soon after this three of the Indians sat down on the shore, looking stedfastly at the ship for several hours. The Lieutenant was now sent towards them; but, when they saw the boat approaching, they moved along the coast, where they were soon met by three others. When they had conferred together, the former went on, while the latter advanced hastily towards the boat. This being observed from the ship, a signal was made for the boat’s crew to act with caution. The Lieutenant now proceeded to the shore, and offered his presents to the Indians, who, regardless of his trinkets, discharged their arrows, and immediately ran off; though the boat’s crew received no injury, they fired at the natives; but these, likewise, escaped unhurt.

In a short time after this the cutter came on board; the Master, who commanded her, having three arrows sticking in his body. The account he gave of his expedition was, in substance, as follows. Being arrived at a place about fifteen miles from the ship, he saw some houses, but only a very few of the natives, and landed with four of the crew well armed: the first fears of the Indians being dispelled, they accepted his presents with pleasure, and, in return, gave him some fish, yams, and cocoa-nuts. He then went to the houses; but soon observing a number of the natives among the trees, and several canoes coming round a point, he hastened towards the boat; but before he could embark, a general attack with bows and arrows was made, as well on those in the boat, as on those on shore. Thus situated, the crew fired repeatedly, killing and wounding many of the Indians: still however the latter continued the fight, some of them running into the water as high as the breast; and when the boat got farther off she was pursued by the canoes, which did not retreat till one of them was sunk, and many of the people in the others were killed.

Some of the crew gave an account of this transaction less favourable to the Master than his own: they said, that the Indians behaved in the most friendly manner, till he exasperated them by cutting down a cocoa-nut tree, after they had strongly intimated their wishes that he would not destroy it. The instant the tree fell they all left the spot but one man, but they were soon observed to assemble in great numbers among the trees; on which a Midshipman entreated the Master to go on board; but he slighted the advice, nor even retired till the attack was commenced. The Master and three of the seamen died of the wounds received from the arrows of the Indians.

The Captain now determined to attempt the reparation of the ship in her present situation; and succeeded so far that the leak was greatly reduced. On the 14th the wind setting full into the bay, the ship was driven near the shore, and many of the Indians were observed in the woods, as if in expectation of her running a-ground.

On the 15th a party was sent on shore to get water, a shot having been previously fired into the woods, to disperse any of the natives that might be lurking in them. The Lieutenant was likewise dispatched in the cutter to keep the coast clear for the waterers, by repeated firings into the woods; yet, in spite of these precautions, a flight of arrows was soon discharged among them, by which one of the seamen was dangerously wounded. The crew now incessantly fired to that part of the wood from whence the arrows came; but the Captain made a signal for the boats to come off; and as soon as he had taken them on board, fired several canon into the woods; on which a great number of the natives left their retreat, and ran away along the shore.

In a short time another large party was observed on a point of the bay, at whom a ball being fired, it fell in the midst of, and dispersed them. The people now took in water with safety; but a constant firing was kept up, both from the ship, and from a party on shore; and it appeared that our countrymen had been dreadfully successful, for repeated groans, as of dying men, were heard from several places in the woods.

As the Master was now dying of the wounds he had received by the arrows; as the Captain and Lieutenant were so ill that their recovery was doubtful; and as there was no chance of procuring proper refreshments at this place, all intentions of pursuing the voyage farther to the southward were laid aside: the Captain, therefore, having named the place Egmont Island, and the harbour where the ship had lain Swallow Bay, sailed from it on the 17th of August 1767.

On the same day an island was discovered, which received the name of Portland’s Island, four miles from which they saw an harbour, which was called Byron’s Harbour. Having sailed three leagues from the harbour, they had sight of the bay where the Indians had attacked the crew of the cutter. This was called Bloody Bay; on its borders were a number of houses well constructed, and one much longer than the others, which had the appearance of a kind of hall for the transaction of public business. In this place, which was well built, and covered with a kind of thatch, the Master and his party had been received by the natives, before the wanton cutting down of the cocoa-nut tree. A large number of arrows were hung in bundles round the room, the floor and sides of which were covered with matting. In this neighbourhood were many gardens, surrounded by stone walls, and planted with vegetables. Three miles from this village a large town was seen, in the front of which, towards the sea, was an angular kind of fortification, built of stone, and near five feet high.

About three miles from hence they saw a bay, into which a river empties itself, which they called Granville’s River, and it appeared to be navigable for small vessels far up the country. The point of this bay was called Ferrers’s Point; and from hence the land forms a large bay, near which is a considerable town, inhabited by an incredible number of people, who, while the ship was sailing by, came out of their houses, holding something like a bundle of grass in their hands, with which they appeared to stroke each other, running in rings, or dancing, all the while.

Sailing onwards a few miles they saw another point, which was called Carteret Point, on which was a large canoe, with an awning over it; at a small distance was another town, fortified as that before-mentioned. The inhabitants of this place likewise advanced before their houses, and danced as the others had done. The dance being ended, many of them came off in canoes towards the ship: but having got near enough to have a good view of her, they would advance no farther.

They soon saw another small island, which was named Trevanion’s Island, and the north part of it was called Cape Trevanion. Both the main land and this island abounded with inhabitants; and a boat being sent to sound the passage, they no sooner observed that she had left the ship, than several canoes advanced to attack her. The Indians having let fly their arrows, the boat’s crew fired, and killed one man, and wounded another. A gun laden with grape shot was at the same time fired from the ship, on which all the canoes pulled hard for the shore, except the one with the wounded man in it, which being taken to the ship, the surgeon was ordered to examine his wounds. One of this poor fellow’s arms was broke, and a shot had gone through his head; and the Surgeon being of opinion that the latter wound was mortal, he was placed in his canoe again, and with one hand rowed towards the shore. His canoe was formed only of the hollow trunk of a tree: he was a young fellow, almost as black as the negroes of Guinea; his features were good, his hair woolly, and he went quite naked.⁠—It may be fairly asked here, if it would not have been an act of humanity to have attempted the cure of this unfortunate youth, if it had been only by a single dressing, before he had been dismissed.

As they sailed along the shore they saw plantains, bananas, and cocoa-nut trees, and observed great numbers of hogs and poultry: but the Captain being yet very ill, and having not officers sufficient to direct the men in the common business of the ship, he had no opportunity of establishing a friendly traffick with the Indians; and was unable to obtain by force those refreshments which the crew became every hour more and more in want of.

Thus situated; unable to proceed farther to the south, and in danger of being too late for the monsoon, he gave immediate orders to proceed northwards, in hope of discovering the country, which Dampier has distinguished by the name of Nova Britannia.

To all the islands they had now left, Captain Carteret gave the general name of Queen Charlotte’s Islands; and, besides those already mentioned, he saw several, which he named as follows, viz. Lord How’s Island; Keppel’s Island; Lord Edgcombe’s Island; Ourry’s Island; and Volcano Island; this last being so denominated from a smoke that issued from its top, which is of an amazing height, and shaped like a sugar loaf.

The canoes of the inhabitants are formed of the trunk of a tree hollowed, are large enough to contain ten or twelve people, and are furnished with out-riggers, but have no sails.

The people of Egmont Island are very expert at swimming and diving; and active and vigorous in a high degree. Their arrows are so sharp, and discharged with such strength, that one of them wounded a man in the thigh, after passing through the wash-board of the boat. The points of these arrows are flint, and no metal was seen among the natives. There are good harbours on the coasts of these islands, which likewise abound in rivers, and have some vallies, but for the most part they are mountainous, and covered with trees.

Captain Carteret sailed on the 18th of August, and holding a west-north-west course, he on the 20th discovered a small island, which was called Gower’s Island, the people of which did not differ in any thing material from those of the islands he had lately left. Some cocoa-nuts were here procured in exchange for nails; and the inhabitants had intimated, that they would furnish a farther supply the next morning but it was then found, that the current had carried the ship considerably to the south during the night, and brought them within sight of two other islands, one of which was called Simpson’s Island, and the other Carteret’s Island.

As both these islands were to windward of the ship, they sailed again to Gower’s Island, which abounds with fine trees, many of which are the cocoa-nut. A boat being sent on shore, the Indians attempted to seize her; and in return the crew made prize of a canoe, in which was a number of cocoa-nuts. The arms of the natives were spears, bows and arrows.

As a strong current set to the southward, they now steered a north-westerly course, because the bad condition of the ship, and sickness of the crew, would have rendered it impossible for them ever to have got to sea again, if they had been driven into any gulph or deep bay. On the 22d one of the marines fell overboard, and was drowned, notwithstanding every effort was used to save him.

The ship fell in with nine islands in the night of the 24th, which Captain Carteret supposes to be the same that were discovered by Tasman, and are named Ohang Java: eight of these are very small, but the other is more extensive, and they are all inhabited by blacks, whose heads are woolly, like those on the coast of Africa. The next day they had sight of an island covered with verdure, which was called Sir Charles Hardy’s Island, and from the number of fires that were seen on it, they supposed it to be inhabited. This day they likewise had sight of a large island, formed of three high hills, which took the name of Winchelsea’s Island. On the 26th they saw a large island to the north, which Captain Carteret imagines to have been the island of St. John, that was discovered by Schouten.

This day they were within sight of Nova Britannia, and the next morning the current drove the ship into a deep bay, which, in Dampier’s Voyages, is called St. George’s Bay. On the 28th they gave the name of Wallis’s Island to a small island in a bay, off which they came to an anchor, and were now 7500 miles due west from the main land of America. The cutter was sent out to catch fish; but not succeeding, she returned with a considerable number of cocoa-nuts.

On the next day, after great fatigue, they weighed the anchor, and sailed to a place which they called English Cove, where they immediately began to take in wood and water. They now attempted to catch fish with hooks and lines, but none of them would bite; nor were they much more successful with their nets: turtle likewise were very plentiful, yet they could not take any of them; but at low water they picked up some large cockles and rock oysters. From the shore they procured cocoa-nuts, and the cabbage of the cocoa-tree, which is crisp and juicy; this, when eaten raw, tastes like a chestnut; but, when boiled, has a more agreeable flavour than the parsnip. It was found to be excellent when boiled with portable soup and oatmeal. They likewise gathered some plumbs, which tasted like those of the West Indies, which are called Jamaica plumbs; and by this supply of vegetables, they had soon reason to rejoice in the blessing of returning health.

This island seemed to have been lately inhabited, as several wretched huts were seen, in which were the remains of fires, and the shells of fish, which did not appear to have been long catched: they had likewise a sight of two animals, which were supposed to be dogs. This place produces palm-trees of various kinds; aloes, canes, bamboos, rattans, beetle-nut, and the nutmeg-tree; with a variety of other trees, and many shrubs and plants of which the names were not known. In the woods was a large black-bird, whose note was not unlike the barking of a dog: there were likewise parrots, rooks, pigeons and doves: they also saw centipieds, serpents and scorpions.

Having taken in wood and water, and repaired the ship in the best manner they were able, the Captain took possession of the country, with all the neighbouring islands, for the King of Great Britain. This was done by nailing on a lofty tree a piece of board faced with lead, on which was engraved the name of the vessel, and of the Captain, the time of entering and leaving the harbour, and a representation of the union flag of England.

They left this cove on the 7th of September, and anchored on the same day almost close to a grove of cocoa-nut trees, where they supplied themselves with the fruit and the cabbage in very great abundance; and called the place Carteret’s Harbour, which being formed by the main and two islands, one of them was named Leigh’s Island, and the other Cocoa-nut Island.

Nothing now remained but to attempt the reaching Batavia while the monsoon continued favourable: on the 9th of September, therefore, the anchor was weighed, and when they were about four leagues from land, the wind and current being both against them, they steered round the coast into a channel between two islands, which channel was divided by another island, to which Captain Carteret gave the name of the Duke of York’s Island, and near which are several smaller islands. To the south of the largest island are three hills of singular form, which were called the Mother and Daughters, one of which was supposed to be a volcano, from the large clouds of smoke that were seen issuing from it. A point they called Cape Palliser, lies to the east of these hills, and Cape Stephens to the west; north of which last lies an island, which took the name of the Isle of Man. The country in general is mountainous and woody, and was supposed to be inhabited, from the number of fires seen on it in the night. On the Duke of York’s Island the houses are situated among groves of the cocoa-nut tree, and form the most enchanting prospect.

Having brought to for the night, they sailed again in the morning, when some of the Indians put off in canoes towards the ship; but the wind being fair and blowing fresh, it was not thought prudent to wait for them. Steering north-west by west, they lost sight of New Britain on the 11th, and it being now found, that what had been taken for a bay was a streight, it was called St. George’s Channel, and the island on the north of it received the name of New Ireland. In the evening they discovered a large island, well clothed with verdure, which was denominated Sandwich Island, off this island the ship lay great part of the night, during which time a perpetual noise was heard, resembling the sound of a drum. When they had almost cleared the Streight, the weather falling calm, a number of canoes approached the ship, and, though they could not be prevailed on to go on board, they exchanged some little matters with the crew, receiving nails and bits of iron, which they preferred to every thing else that was offered them. Though the canoes of these people were formed out of single trees, they were between 80 and 100 feet in length. The natives are negroes, and their hair is of the woolly kind, but they have neither thick lips nor flat noses. They wore shell-work on their legs and arms, but were otherwise naked, except that their hair and beards were powdered with white powder, and a feather was stuck into the head above the ear. Their arms consisted of a long stick and a spear; and it was observed, that they had fishing-nets and cordage.

They now sailed west, and coming in sight of the south-west point of the island, it was called Cape Byron; near which is an island of considerable extent, which received the name of New Hanover. The Streight they had now passed was called Byron’s Streight, one of the largest islands they had seen, Byron’s Island; and the south west point of New Hanover, Queen Charlotte’s Foreland. On the following day they saw several small islands, which received the name of the Duke of Portland’s Islands.

When they had compleatly navigated St. George’s Channel, the whole length of which is about one hundred leagues; they sailed a westward course, and on the 14th of September discovered several islands. The next morning some hundreds of the natives came off in canoes towards the ship, and were invited on board by every token of friendship and good will; notwithstanding which, when they came within reach, they threw several lances at the seamen on the deck. A great gun and several muskets were now fired at them, by which some were killed or wounded; on which they rowed towards the shore; and after they had got to a distance, a shot was fired so as to fall beyond them, to convince them that they were not out of the reach of the guns.

In a short time other canoes advanced hastily from a distant part of the island; and one of them coming nearer than the rest, the people in it were invited on board the ship; but instead of complying with the invitation, they threw in a number of darts and lances. This assault was returned by the firing of several muskets, whereby one of the Indians was killed; on which his companions jumped overboard, and swam to the other canoes, all of which rowed to the shore. This canoe being taken on board, was found to contain a turtle, some other fish, and a fruit between the apple and plumb, of a species hitherto unknown to Europeans. These people were almost negroes, with woolly hair, which they powdered; and they went naked, except the ornaments of shells round their arms and legs.

Captain Carteret now coasted along the islands, to which he gave the general name of the Admiralty Islands. He describes them as having a most enchanting appearance, being covered with woods, groves of cocoa-nut trees, and the houses of the natives. The largest of these islands is computed to be above 50 miles in length; and he supposes that they produce many valuable articles, particularly spices.

They discovered two small verdant islands on the 19th, which were called Durour’s Island, and Matty’s Island, the inhabitants of which last ran along the coast with lights during the night. They had sight of two other small islands on the 24th, which were called Stephens’s Islands, and which abounded with beautiful trees.

On the evening of the 25th they had sight of three islands, the natives of which came off in canoes, and went on board the ship. They bartered cocoa-nuts for some bits of iron, with which metal they did not seem unacquainted, and appeared extravagantly fond of it. They called it parram, and intimated, that a ship sometimes touched at their islands. These people were of the copper colour, and had fine black hair; but their beards were very small, as they were continually plucking the hair from their faces. Their teeth were even and white, and their countenances agreeable; their activity was such, that they ran to the mast-head even quicker than the seamen. They ate and drank any thing that was given them; and had not the least degree of reserve in their behaviour. Their dress consisted only of a piece of fine matting round the waist.⁠—As the current carried the ship at a great rate, the Captain had no opportunity of landing, though the Indians offered, that some of their people should remain on board, as a security for the safe return of such of the seamen as might be sent on shore. One of the Indians, on finding that none of the crew were to land, absolutely refused to leave the ship, and was therefore carried to the island of Celebes, where he died. This man was named Joseph Freewill, and the largest of the islands was called Freewill Island; but the natives called it Pegan; and the names of the other two are Onata and Onello.

On the evening of the 28th they discovered an island from the mast-head; but they neither visited nor gave name to it. On the 12th of October they got sight of a small island, which was named Current Island, from the great strength of the southerly current; and on the following day they discovered two more small islands, which were called St. Andrew’s Islands.

On the 26th they had sight of land, which, on the day following, they knew to be the Island of Mindanao, and coasted the south-east part of it, in search of a bay described in Dampier’s Voyages; but they could not find it. A boat being sent out, found a little nook at the southern extremity of the island, near which was a town and a fort. The boat being seen from the shore, a gun was fired, and some canoes came out after it; on which the Lieutenant retreated towards the ship, and, when the canoes came in sight of her, they retired in their turn.

They now sailed eastward, and, on the 2d of November, anchored in a bay near the shore, whither the boats immediately went, and took in water; they saw no signs of that part of the island being inhabited, but a canoe being observed to come round a point of the bay, as if to watch their motions, the Captain hoisted English colours, in the hope of tempting her crew on board; but they only took a survey of the ship, and rowed off.

In the night a loud noise was heard from the shore, very much like the war-whoop of the savages of America; which, inducing Captain Carteret to think that the intentions of the islanders were hostile, he ordered up his guns from the hold, and made all preparations to repress force with force. The next morning one of the boats was sent on shore for water, while the other was held in readiness to assist in case of danger. As soon as the crew had landed, many armed men advanced from the woods, one of whom holding up something white, the Captain, who had no white flag on board, sent the Lieutenant on shore, with orders to display a table-cloth as a signal of peace. This being done, two Indians came down to the Lieutenant, one of whom addressed him first in Dutch, and then in Spanish, in which latter tongue he was with difficulty understood. His enquiries were, if the ship was a Dutch vessel; what number of men and guns she carried; if she had been to Batavia, or was bound thither; and whether she was designed for war or trade.

These questions being answered, he said they might go to the town, and he would introduce them to the Governor. The Lieutenant now desired that some armed Indians might retreat, and that the seamen might be permitted to fill water; which was readily granted. This being done, the Lieutenant presented the Indian with a silk handkerchief, and received a coarse neckcloth in return. The boats soon returned to the ship, with a good supply of water; and Captain Carteret was congratulating himself on the prospect which these amicable appearances promised, when he observed some hundreds of Indians, armed with targets, hangers, broadswords, pikes, bows, arrows and muskets, range themselves opposite the ship:⁠—they brandished their swords, and held up their targets, in token of defiance, at the same time discharging their lances and arrows towards the ship.

Captain Carteret, still resolved to avoid coming to extremities if it were possible, and sent the Lieutenant again on shore, to display the table-cloth, as an ensign of peace. The natives seeing that the boat had reached the shore, yet that no person landed, one of them advanced, and beckoned them to come to the spot near where he stood; which the Lieutenant declined doing, as he would then have been within reach of their arrows.

The Captain having formed a resolution of visiting the town, sailed from hence the next morning, after having called the place Deceitful Bay: but the wind soon blowing violently in shore, he altered his resolution, and steered for Batavia.

The south of Mindanao is a fine country, interspersed with woods, lawns and plantations; and abounds with inhabitants, as do likewise its neighbouring islands. Captain Carteret was of opinion, that there were Dutchmen in the town, or persons in the Dutch interest, who, finding the Swallow to be an English vessel, had irritated the inhabitants against the crew.

On the 14th of November, 1767, they reached the Streight of Macassar, situate between the islands of Borneo and Celebes, to a point of which latter island they gave the name of Hummock Point; to the westward of which a number of boats were seen fishing on the shoals. They were in sight of two very small islands on the 21st, which are well clothed with verdure, and deemed by Captain Carteret to be the same that are called Taba Islands in the French charts.

On the 27th they crossed the equinoctial line, and got into southern latitude, at which time they found the current setting against them, and the tornadoes became violent. The crew was now diminishing by death, and weakened daily by sickness; so that there were hardly hands sufficient to navigate the vessel. On the 3d of December they had sight of the islands called the Little Pater-nosters, which lie something more than two degrees south of the line; but it was out of their power to land any where for refreshment, as the winds and currents were against them. Not a man on board was now free from the scurvy and when it was imagined that nothing could have aggravated their distress, they were attacked by a pirate in the middle of the night of the 10th of December. It was so very dark that they could not see their enemy, who attacked them with swivel guns and small arms but they returned the salute so warmly, that the pirate was sunk, and all her crew perished, after having wounded two persons on board the Swallow, and done some very trifling damage to the ship. The pirate had been seen in the dusk of the evening; and Captain Carteret afterwards heard that she belonged to a Freebooter, who had upwards of thirty vessels engaged in the dangerous business of piracy.

By the 12th of this month they had lost thirteen of the crew; and the death of thirty others was hourly dreaded. At this time too the westerly monsoon was set in, so that it was impossible to reach Batavia; and as they must speedily make some land, or inevitably perish, it was resolved to attempt the getting to Macassar, a Dutch settlement on the island of Celebes. On the 13th they saw several trees floating, and birds sitting on them: and two days afterwards they came to an anchor, at little more than a league from Macassar.

Late that night the Governor sent a Dutchman on board the Swallow, who was greatly alarmed to find that she was an English man of war, no such vessel having ever anchored there before; and so apprehensive of danger was the Dutchman, that he would not venture to enter the cabin. Very early the next day the Captain sent a letter to the Governor, requesting permission to buy provisions, and asking shelter for the ship, till the proper season returned for sailing to the westward. When the boat arrived at the wharf, not one of her crew was permitted to land; and on the Lieutenant’s refusing to deliver the letter, except to the Governor himself, the Shebander and the Fiscal (two officers of the town) came to him, and said that the Governor was sick, and that they came for the letter by his command. Though this sickness was believed to be mere pretence, the Lieutenant at length delivered the letter, which they took with them. When the boat’s crew had waited several hours in the burning heat of the sun, and without the least refreshment, the Lieutenant was informed, that the Governor had given orders to two gentlemen to wait on Captain Carteret, with an answer to his letter. While the boat lay off the wharf, it was observed that there was a great hurry on shore, all hands being engaged in fitting out such vessels as were proper for war.

Soon after the boat came back, Mess. Le Cerf and Douglas brought a letter, intimating, that “the ship should instantly depart from the port, without coming any nearer to the town; that she should not anchor on any part of the coast, and that the Captain should not permit any of his people to land on any place that was under the Governor’s jurisdiction.”

As the most forcible answer to this letter, the Captain shewed his dying men to the gentlemen, and again pleaded the urgent necessity of the case. They could not but see and feel the propriety of granting refreshments and shelter to persons in such a situation; but still, they said, their orders were absolute, and must be obeyed. Provoked at this treatment, the Captain declared he would anchor close to the town; and if they then refused him necessaries, that he would run the ship a-ground, and himself and his crew would sell their lives as dearly as possible. Alarmed at this declaration, they begged the Captain to remain in his present station, till the Governor should give further orders; and this he promised, provided that he had an answer before the sea breeze set in on the day following.

Early in the morning a sloop of war, and another vessel, with many soldiers on board, came and anchored under the ship’s bows. The Captain sent to speak with them, but they would not answer a single question: and as the sea-breeze set in at noon, he then sailed towards the town, the other vessels weighing anchor, and keeping even pace with him.

A vessel now approached from the town, in which were several gentlemen, among whom was the Mr. Douglas above-mentioned; but none of them would go on board till the Swallow had dropped her anchor. On their expressing some surprize that the Swallow had sailed from her former station, Captain Carteret told them, that he had only acted agreeable to his declaration to them the preceding day, in which he was fully justified by his present situation. These gentlemen brought with them two sheep, some fowls, fruit, and other provisions, which were highly acceptable.

After they had made several propositions, which Captain Carteret could not but reject, he again declared his resolution of putting his threats in execution, and to convince them that he was in earnest, shewed them the body of a man who had expired within a few hours; but who would probably have been then alive, if the refreshments had been brought in time. They now enquired if the ship had touched at the Spice Islands; and being answered in the negative, it was at length agreed, that she should sail to a bay at a small distance, where an hospital might be built for the sick, and where provisions were plenty, and that if any thing farther was wanted, it should be sent from Macassar.

This proposal was readily embraced, on the condition that the Governor and Council should ratify it, which they afterwards did. The Captain now enquiring why the two vessels had anchored under the ship’s bows, was told, that it was only to protect her from any outrages on the part of the natives of the country. Mr. Carteret had nothing to treat his guests with, but bad salt meat and rotten bread: but, during their treaty, a very elegant dinner having been dressed in the gentlemen’s vessel, it was served up on board the ship; after which they parted good friends.

An officer from the town coming on board the next day, the Captain applied to him to procure money for his bills on the English government. This he promised to attempt, and went on shore for that purpose, but, returning in the evening, brought word, that there was not a person in the town, who wanted to remit any money to Europe; and that the Company’s chest was totally drained: but this difficulty was at length surmounted, by an order to the Resident at Bonthain, who had money to remit to Europe, to take the Captain’s bills for any thing he should want.

On the day following Mons. Le Cerf, who was an Ensign, brought a pilot on board, to carry the ship round to Bonthain; and Le Cerf had the command of some soldiers, who were on board two guard-boats that attended the ship: and he was likewise to act as a check on the Resident.

All things being thus settled, they sailed early on the 20th of December, 1767, and anchored in the road of Bonthain on the following day. The guard-boats were now moored close to the shore, to prevent all communication between the ship’s boats and those of the country. Captain Carteret having attended the Resident, to settle the price and mode of procuring provisions, a house was appropriated to his use, situated near a small fort. This being fitted up as an hospital, the sick were landed and placed under a guard, which was commanded by M. Le Cerf, who would not permit them to go above thirty yards from the hospital, nor the natives to traffic with the seamen; so that the profits of traffic fell into the hands of the Dutch soldiers, whose gains were immoderate; so great, indeed, that some of them sold at a profit of more than a thousand per cent. after having extorted the provisions from the natives at what price they pleased. Captain Carteret having remonstrated with the Resident on the injustice of this procedure, he spoke to the soldiers on the subject; but this produced no good effect; and it was known that, after this, Le Cerf’s wife sold provisions at more than double the prime cost, while it was suspected that he sold arrack to the seamen.

On the 26th and 27th three vessels arrived, one of which had troops on board, destined for the Banda Islands; but their boats not being allowed to go on board the ship, the Captain prevailed on the Resident to purchase, for his use, four casks of salt provisions. Above one hundred sail of proas arrived at Bonthain Bay on the 28th.⁠—These vessels, which fish round the island, carry Dutch colours, and send the produce of their labours to China for sale.

On the 18th of January a letter from Macassar informed Captain Carteret, that the Dolphin, his old consort, had arrived at Batavia. Ten days after this the Secretary, who had been sent with Le Cerf, had orders to return to Macassar; on the 19th of February, Le Cerf himself was recalled; and on the 7th of March the largest of the guard-boats was likewise ordered back. On the 9th the Resident received a letter from the Governor of Macassar, enquiring when Captain Carteret would sail for Batavia, though he must know it could not be before the eastern monsoon set in, which would not be till May. All these were suspicious circumstances; and toward the end of the month it was observed, that a canoe frequently paddled round the ship several times in the night, and retired as soon as she was seen.

While every one was speculating on these matters, the Captain received a letter, informing him that a design was formed for his destruction; that the Dutch were at the bottom of this affair; but that the ostensible person was to be the son of the King of Bony, who was on terms of friendship with the Dutch, as they had often assisted him in attempts to reduce the inhabitants of the other parts of the island of Celebes, and had been as often repulsed. The pretended grounds for this proceeding were, that the English might form connections with these unsubdued natives of the island.

Whether the information contained in this letter was true or false, Captain Carteret put his ship in the best posture of defence possible. He even suspected that the Resident was privy to the horrid scheme; but he had afterwards reason to be convinced to the contrary: though it appeared that one of the Princes subject to the King of Bony, and a minister of that monarch, had been privately at Bonthain; but of eight hundred men, who were said to be there, no traces could be found.

On the 7th of May the Captain received, through the hands of the Resident, a letter from the Governor of Macassar, denying his having any knowledge of the above-mentioned project, and requiring that the writer of the letter might be given up; but this requisition was not complied with, as the Captain knew he would be equally punished, whether his information was or was not true.

At this place they purchased plenty of fresh provisions at moderate prices; and, among the rest, beef of an excellent quality. The bullocks of this place are those that have the bunch on the back; and it likewise abounds in buffaloes, horses, sheep, deer, and goats. The natives neither eat pork nor turtle; but they sold the latter, as well as other fish, to Captain Carteret.

Having taken in wood and water, they sailed hence on the 22d of May, and, steering along the shore, came to an anchor the same evening, between the islands of Celebes and Tonikaky. They sailed again in the morning, and at night saw the southernmost of the islands of Salombo. On the 26th they saw the island of Luback; and on the 29th a number of small islands called Carimon-Java.

On the 2d of June they had sight of the land of Java, and on the following day came to an anchor in the road of Batavia, after having with difficulty prevented the ship from sinking, by the constant working of the pumps, during her whole passage from Celebes. Having fired guns of salutation, the Captain attended the Governor, requesting permission to repair the defects of the ship; but he was directed to petition the Council.

The Council met on the Monday following, when the Captain sent a letter, stating the defects of the ship, and requesting permission to repair her. The time from this day till the 18th of the month was lost in altercations respecting the affair at Bonthain Bay; the Governor and Council insisting, that Captain Carteret should sign a formal declaration, that he believed the report of an intention formed at Celebes, for cutting off the ship, was false and malicious; and the Captain on his part resolutely persisting in his refusal to sign any such paper.

On the 18th the Captain learnt that orders had been given for repairing the ship at Onrust, whither a pilot attended her, and where she came to an anchor on the 22d of June; but as the wharfs were pre-engaged by other ships, the repairs did not commence till the 24th of July. On examination, the vessel was found in so very rotten and decayed a condition, that the Dutch carpenter would not undertake her repair, without shifting her whole bottom, till the Captain had certified under his hand, that what should be done was in consequence of his own express direction. This the Dutchman thought necessary, lest the ship should never reach England, and the blame consequently rest with him.

During Captain Carteret’s stay at this port, he frequently visited M. Houting, an Admiral in the service of the Dutch, a gentleman remarkable for his politeness and affability, from whom the Captain received several distinguishing marks of kindness.⁠—The Governor of Batavia lives with the state of a sovereign Prince. When he goes publicly abroad he is escorted by horse-guards, and has two black footmen who run before his coach. When any other coach meets that of the Governor, it is drawn on one side, and the persons in it get out to pay their respects; nor, if a coach is behind, must it be driven by the Governor’s, whatever necessity may require its greater speed. The like homage is paid to the members of the Council, only that the person does not quit his carriage, but salutes them standing in it; one black man, with a stick in his hand, runs before the coach of a member of the Council, and thinks himself at liberty to punish those who do not make a proper obedience.

It was hinted to Captain Carteret, by the landlord of the hotel where he lodged, that his carriage must stop, if he should meet the Governor’s, or those of the Council; but the Captain disdaining to pay a degree of homage to the servants of the States of Holland, which is not paid to the King of Great Britain, refused to comply; and when the black men were mentioned, he said he knew how to defend himself, and pointed to his pistols. In a few hours afterwards he was told, from the Governor, that he might act as he pleased.

Captain Carteret having engaged some English seamen, sailed from Onrust on the 15th of September, and came to an anchor off Princes Island, in the Streight of Sunda, on the following day. Having here taken in wood and water, they sailed on the 25th with a fine gale of wind, which held them during a passage of 700 leagues; and on the 23d of November they came to an anchor in Table Bay in the Cape of Good Hope. The Captain having received numberless civilities from the Governor and other gentlemen of this place, sailed on the 6th of January, and on the 20th anchored off the Island of St. Helena, from whence he again sailed on the 24th. On the 31st of January they anchored in a bay off the Island of Ascension, where they found an abundance of turtle, many of which were taken; and the ship sailed again on the following day.

It had been accustomed to leave on this island (which is uninhabited) a letter in a bottle, containing an account of the name and destination of any ship which might touch there; and with this custom Captain Carteret complied.

On the 20th of this month a ship which had been seen the preceding day far to the leeward, but had out-sailed the Swallow in the night, tacked and stood towards her. A boat was sent on board, in which was a young officer, who, by many artful questions, endeavoured to learn from Captain Carteret all the most important particulars of his voyage; and this piece of ill manners was aggravated, by his inventing a tale to disguise those of his own voyage; for the vessel he had just left was no other than that of M. Bougainville, which was then returning from a voyage round the world. Captain Carteret learnt this circumstance afterwards from the Lieutenant; for the boat’s crew, which had brought the French officer on board, had discovered every secret to one of the English crew who spoke French. Happily, Captain Carteret had kept his own secret so well, that Monsieur Bougainville was not at all the wiser for the time he had lost in the negotiation of this illiberal business. The Frenchman learnt the name of the English ship from the letter left in the bottle at the island of Ascension.

Our adventurers had sight of the western islands on the 7th of March 1769, and came to an anchor at Spithead on the 20th of the same month, without meeting with any accident worth recording.

Considering the extreme unfitness of the Swallow to perform such a voyage; the length of time she was in doing it; the amazing dangers she escaped; and the apparently insurmountable difficulties she went through; to what can we ascribe her arriving safe in England at last, but the merciful interposition of a particular providence.

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