MEMOIRS

OF THE Baron De Pollnitz. VOL. IV.

To Madame De ——.

The Conduct of the Court of Spain, tho’ it really made the Court of Vienna uneasy, did not hinder the Emperor from carrying on the War against the Turks with Vigour: And Heaven so prosper’d the Imperial Arms, that in 1718 Prince Eugene gain’d the most signal Victory near Belgrade that the Christians could have hop’d for. Soon after that Battle the victorious Troops reduc’d Belgrade, and at length the Turks were forc’d to sue for a Peace: While every Thing seem’d to have a Tendency that way, Spain put to Sea the most formidable Fleet she had ever equipp’d since that unfortunate one call’d, The Invincible Armado; and sent it to the Coast of Sicily, where it put a numerous Army on Shore, under Command of the Marquis de Lede. The Count de Maffei Viceroy of the Kingdom for the Duke of Savoy, who was King of Sicily, made all the Resistance possible, considering the Weakness of his Army; and tho’ not able to save the Island, yet he made such a Defence as hinder’d the Spanish Army from pushing its Conquests farther by giving Time to Admiral Bing, who commanded the English Fleet, to enter the Mediterranean, and execute the Orders he had to attack the Spanish Fleet. These Orders imported, that he was to act in a friendly manners in case that Spain desisted from its Enterprizes against the Neutrality of Italy; but otherwise to make a vigorous Resistance. Admiral Bing communicated these Orders to Cardinal Alberoni, who answer’d him gravely, That he had nothing to do but to put them in Execution. The Admiral did so with a Vengeance; for on the 11th of August he gave Battle to the Spanish Fleet, and intirely defeated it. As soon as the Duke Regent was inform’d of the News, he sent away a Courier to the French Ambassador at Madrid, with Letters from the Earl of Stairs to the English Ambassador Earl Stanhope. The Design of his Royal Highness was to engage the latter to return to Madrid, from whence he set out on the 27th of August, that he might make fresh Instances there for a Peace with Cardinal Alberoni, who to be sure was a little stunn’d at this Reverse of Fortune. But the Earl, whether he did not meet the Courier, or whether he did not think it proper to return to Spain, arriv’d at Paris on the 9th of September.

Mean Time the War betwixt the Emperor and the Turks was at an End, and Orders were actually given for sending the Imperial Troops into Italy. The Regent despairing at that Time of persuading the King of Spain to a Peace, order’d the Abbat du Bois, the French Ambassador at London, to sign the Treaty commonly call’d The Quadruple Alliance, in Conjunction with the Ambassadors of England and the Emperor. He also repeated his Orders to the Duke of St. Aignan, to try all the means imaginable to prevail on the King of Spain to accede to the Terms that were propos’d to him by the Quadruple Alliance; but his Catholic Majesty persisted so long in his Refusal, that his Royal Highness resolv’d to declare War against him, and the Duke of St. Aignan had Orders to demand his Audience of Leave.

At that Time the Regent happily discover’d a Conspiracy that was form’d against him in the very Heart of the Kingdom. The King of England had before appriz’d him, that there was some Contrivance on Foot; but the Names of the Conspirators, and what they were to do, was a Secret. Mean time the Regent suspecting that all these Intrigues were only fomented by the Minister of Spain, he caus’d the Prince de la Cellamare, Ambassador from that Crown, to be so narrowly watch’d that he was soon let into the Secret of the whole Intrigue carrying on against him, which was in short no less than to remove him from the Regency. The Spanish Minister for the better Success had caus’d a Body of Troops to be assembled in France, where they stroll’d about like Fellows that dealt in unlicens’d Salt, and other Contraband Goods; but upon a particular Day they were to enter Paris, invest the Royal Palace, and to secure the Person of the Regent. The Conspiracy was detected almost at the same Instant that it was to have been executed; and of this the Prince de Cellamare himself was partly the Cause; not that I suspect him of having betray’d the Spanish Minister, but probably he was too credulous of every one that came to him; for I was told, that the Pacquet containing the whole Mystery of the Conspiracy, and the Names of the Conspirators, was put into the Hands of the Abbat Portocarrero, in Presence of a Couple of Domesticks, whose infidelity was not perhaps Proof against the Lewidors of the Royal Palace. Besides, this Abbat, tho’ a Person of Merit, had not perhaps Experience or Wisdom enough to behave as was absolutely necessary in so ticklish an Affair. Be this as it will, he set out for Madrid with such Dispatches committed to his Care as contain’d the Fortunes of a great Number of People. He had not travell’d far, when, as he was passing a Ford, his Chaise broke, and he had like to have been drown’d; but notwithstanding the Danger of his Person, he seem’d to be more in Pain for his Trunk than for his Life. This Earnestness for the Preservation of his Trunk gave a Suspicion to those who attended him; and the Spies whom the Regent had planted upon him, advertis’d that Prince of it time enough for him to give his Orders to the Commandant of Poictiers to cause him to be arrested, and his Trunk to be secur’d. The Abbat was accordingly arrested[1], and brought back to Paris. The Prince de Cellamare, being inform’d of what had pass’d, claim’d the Trunk, saying it contain’d the Memoirs of his Embassy: He was given to understand, that his Word was not to be taken, and the Trunk being open’d at the Royal Palace, there was all the Scheme of the Conspiracy, and the List of the Persons that were enter’d into it. The Thing that gave the Regent most Vexation was, to see the Names of Persons there, upon whom he had heap’d his Favours. His Royal Highness acted in this delicate Conjuncture with all the Moderation possible, and his Behaviour was in every Respect so discreet, that it was hardly discernible that any Thing extraordinary was passing in France; he caus’d the Abbat Portocarrero to be releas’d, as an insignificant Tool; but as to the Prince de Cellamare, he was invited to a Conference at the Royal Palace, to which he no sooner arriv’d, but Messengers were sent to clap a Seal on his Effects. The Ministers went with him afterwards to his own House, where he was surpriz’d to find a Guard that was charg’d to be answerable for his Person. Some Days after this, all his Papers were examin’d, and Three Boxes were fill’d with them in his Presence, which were seal’d and carry’d to the Louvre, there to be kept till the King of Spain sent Persons that he could confide in to fetch them. At length on the 13th of December, the Prince de Cellamare set out from Paris with a Guard: As for the Smugglers, they vanish’d as soon as the Conspiracy was brought to Light: All this pass’d in the Month of December, 1718.

The 29th of the same Month the Duke and Duchess of Maine were arrested: The Duke had been the Day before to pay a Visit to the Duchess of Orleans at the Royal Palace, and stay’d there Three Hours, after which he return’d to lye at Seaux; where next Morning a Lieutenant of the Guards came and told him, that he had Orders to carry him under a strong Guard to the Castle of Dourlens. The same Day at Seven in the Morning, the Marquis D’Ancenis, who was Captain of the Guards after the Death of his Father the Duke of Charost, during whose Life he had the Post in Reversion, had an Order to arrest the Duchess of Maine: This Officer had supp’d but the Night before with the Princess, and stayed with her very late; guess then how he must be surpriz’d when he came Home, and found the Letter de Cachet or Warrant, which put him upon an Office that he would have been glad to be excused from serving; but the Order must be obeyed, and therefore he went next Day to the Princess’s Apartment, who was then in Bed, as were also her Ladies; so that the Servants were very much startled to see M. D’Ancenis there again so early, and scrupled at first to awake the Duchess; but, as they imagined the Marquis was come about an Affair of great Consequence, the Ladies let him in: The Princess, being wak’d out of her Sleep by the Noise of the Door, as it open’d, ask’d, Who was there? M. D’Ancenis having told her his Name, she said to him hastily, Oh! my God! What have I done to you, that you should disturb me so soon in the Morning? He then told her the melancholy Commission that he was sent upon. They say, her Ladyship was much more provok’d at this Disgrace than the Duke her Husband; and she could not help dropping some Words which shew’d plain enough that she was impatient under her Misfortune. However, she was quickly dress’d, and getting into a Coach with Three of her Waiting-Women, she was conducted to the Castle of Dijon: All her chief Domestics were committed, some to the Bastille, and others to Vincennes. The Prince of Dombes and the Count de Eu were banish’d to Eu, where they had so much Liberty however, that this Change of Fortune had not altogether the Air of Disgrace. As for Maidemoiselle de Maine, the Princess of Conty took her Home with her. The Cardinal de Polignac, who was very much attach’d to the Family of Maine, also shar’d their Fate; for he was banish’d to his Abbey of Anchin, and had but Two Hours allow’d him to set his Affairs in Order.

While these Things pass’d in France, the King of Spain, or rather his Minister, caus’d the Duke of St. Aignan, the Ambassador of France, to be very ill treated, who having taken Leave of the King and Queen, stay’d some Days longer to settle his domestic Affairs, perhaps also to see what Turn Things would take, in case the King of Spain, who was then dangerously ill, should die. I am assur’d that the King having told him, that by his Will he left the Regency to the Queen and Cardinal Alberoni, the Ambassador made Answer, That his Testamentary Settlement might probably be of as little Effect as Lewis XIV’s was. This Answer displeas’d the Cardinal, who thought of nothing but of being reveng’d; and indeed some time after, the Marquis de Grimaldo, Secretary of State, went to the Duke of St. Aignan, and signify’d an Order to him from the King, to leave Madrid in Twenty-four Hours, and the Kingdom in Twelve Days. ’Twas 10 o’Clock at Night when this Order was notify’d, and next Day, viz. the 14th of December, at 7 o’Clock in the Morning, the Ambassador’s House was surrounded by a Party of Life-Guards, commanded by an Exempt, who having plac’d Centinels at all the Doors of his Lodging, enter’d the Duke’s Apartment, who was still a-bed with his Duchess, made them dress themselves with all Speed, and then conducted them out of the City.

Cardinal Alberoni, who did not yet know, that the Plot he had laid was discover’d, wrote with Speed to the Prince of Cellamare, that he might guess what to expect after the Treatment that had been shewn to the Ambassador of France; tho’ he told him, that ought not to be a Reason for using him in the same manner, and that the Duke de St. Aignan’s Misbehaviour had made it necessary to take that Course with him. He exhorted him not to stir from Paris, till he was compell’d to it by Force, nor even then, till he had made all the convenient Protests. He said to him in the Conclusion, Put the Case that your Excellency be oblig’d to go, you will first set Fire to all your Mines. Little did he think how terribly they were at that Time countermin’d!

This Letter, which was a farther Confirmation of the Prince de Cellamare’s Conspiracy, and the Affront put upon the Ambassador of the most Christian King, intirely convinc’d the Regent, that the Spanish Minister was resolv’d to go all Lengths. War was declar’d on both Sides, in which Spain did not come off with Honour. I shall have further Occasion to speak of it to you some Time hereafter.

I am next to give you an Account, how it far’d with myself at this Time: Tho’ I had no Hand in this Plot, yet I was shrewdly suspected; for several Conferences were held at my House: I was intimate with those who were deepest in the Secret, and in Fine, whether it proceeded from Prudence, or from a Panic, I resolv’d to take Care of myself. I set out from Paris in a very great Hurry, with a Design to repair to the Palatine Court, and stay there till the Storm was quite over. I went to Germany thro’ Lorrain, but had much ado to get thither, because I had no Passport, and Orders were arriv’d from Court, to stop all that travell’d without one; I therefore thought of the following Stratagem.

About a League from Toul, which is the last Place in France, I feign’d myself sick, that I might have some colour for halting there, and dismissing my Postilion. At that Village I lay all Night, and rising very early next Morning, I told my Landlady that I would go to Toul on Foot, and desir’d her to send my Boots according to a Direction I left with her. My Design was to go into Toul as a Townsman; for I hop’d, that my being on Foot, and not having the Air of a Traveller, I should pass without Molestation; but I was quite mistaken; for the Guard stopp’d me, and ask’d me, Who I was, and, Wither I was bound? I said, That I was a German, that I had been the Valet de Chambre of a German Nobleman, who dy’d at Paris, and that I was returning from thence Homewards. The Officer carry’d me before the King’s Lieutenant, who, I thought, was a mere Brute; yet I think I should be in the Wrong to complain, for I gave myself out for a Footman, and really as such he treated me: He put several Questions to me, which I always made Answer to like a most submissive Lackey, in Hopes of soothing his sullen Humour; but nothing could defend me from his Reproaches: You are not a Footman, said he, I rather believe you are some Bankrupt; therefore tell me the Truth, or I’ll instantly throw you into a Dungeon. I still affirm’d, that I was a Footman; but the Lieutenant, not well pleas’d with my Answer, committed me to the Guard-House, where he left me Five or Six Hours, and then sent me Word, that I might go to an Inn: I was conducted thither by a Soldier, who was always a Guard upon me, and next Day carry’d me again before the King’s Lieutenant, who took me into his Closet, and told me, ’Twas to no Purpose for me to think of concealing myself any longer from him; for that he was just inform’d who I was, by a Person who knew me. I own, Madame, that I began to be afraid, yet I stood to my Text still, with all the Assurance that could be. He then call’d one of his Domestics, and bid him fetch the Man that knew me; but ’twas well for me, that this Person had no Existence but in his Imagine. Mean Time he seem’d to be out of Patience that he did not come; and at last told me, that I must return to the Guard-House, and not stir from thence till I had fully satisfy’d him who and what I was. Then I happen’d to hit upon an Expedient which prov’d a lucky one; I told him, That I was very willing to remain in Custody till I had receiv’d an Answer from the Landlady of the Inn where my Master dy’d, who would make good what I had affirm’d. Upon this he order’d Paper to be given me; and I wrote in short to my Landlady at Paris, by the Name of a Valet de Chambre, whom I left there when I came away. As she was a Woman of quick Apprehension, and knew my Hand-Writing, I persuaded myself that she would easily comprehend the Meaning of it. When my Letter was finish’d, I shew’d it to the King’s Lieutenant, who read it, and told me, That he would undertake both for its Delivery, and an Answer to it. In the mean Time he remanded me back to my Inn, and in Two Hours after, sent to tell me, that I might pursue my Journey. You will naturally imagine, that I took him at the first Word. I accordingly walk’d out of Toul on Foot, but I hir’d a Horse at a Village belonging to the Principality of Elbœuf, and went to Nancy, where I had the Precaution to provide myself with a Passport, which the Innkeeper, where I lay, procur’d me, by the Name of a certain Merchant of that City. I did not think fit to go to Strasbourg, where perhaps I might have been known; but went to Haguenau; from thence to Fort Louis, where I pass’d the Rhine; and at last arriv’d at Heidelberg in the Beginning of the Year 1719.

The Palatine Court resided at Heidelberg[2], but ’twas not the same Elector that I had the Honour to mention to you before, for he was dead, and was succeeded by his Brother Prince Charles, who kept a numerous and magnificent Court, and was the Darling of all his Family. He was so good to his Domestics, that there are few such to be found among Princes; and yet without debasing his Rank, of which he understood every Part of its Dignity, and perfectly knew how to have the Respect paid that was due to him: Being withal generous, good-natur’d, affable and charitable; he lov’d People should speak to him with Freedom. He was very regular in his Conduct, even to a Degree of Devotion, yet in no respect an Enemy to Pleasures; on the contrary, he often procured them for his Court; and he was especially fond of Dancing, which he perform’d indeed too well for a Prince.

The Elector has had Two Wives, but he has had only one Child, a Daughter, marry’d to the Hereditary Prince of Sultzbach, who is the Elector’s presumptive Heir. She is a very lovely Princess, tho’ somewhat pitted with the Small Pox; she is not tall, but perfectly well-shap’d; she is complete Mistress of every Thing which young Princesses are usually taught; she dances and sings with a very good Grace, and especially the Italian Airs, which she plays at the same time to Perfection upon the Harpsichord. The Prince her Husband was a clever handsome Man, and his Outside was a sufficient Indication of his Endowments: He had so grave an Air, that one would be apt to suspect him of a little Austerity, yet this did not render him a whit the less polite; and, above all Things, he was very civil to Foreigners. He shew’d an extraordinary Respect to the Elector, who, on his Part, gave him all the possible Marks of a Tenderness for him. This young Prince had a Son by this Marriage, who dwelt at Neubourg, where he had been brought up; it being apprehended that the Fatigues of Travelling would be hurtful to his Health, but, notwithstanding this Precaution, the young Prince dy’d in 1724.

The Elector was a very early Riser; as soon as he was up, he spent some Time in Prayer; then the Great Chamberlain or Grand Master of the Wardrobe talk’d to him about Affairs of State, or such as were Domestic; when those Gentlemen were retir’d, the Prince employed himself in reading Dispatches, or in Writing; after which he dress’d himself: About 11 o’Clock he went to Mass, accompany’d by the Prince his Son-in-Law, and the Princess his Daughter: When he held a Council there, ’twas after Mass was over: Upon other Days he play’d at Billiards till Dinner-time, which held a long while, and sometimes a little too much was drank at it; which indeed they could not well help, the Wine there was so delicious. After Dinner was over, his Electoral Highness went with the Princess his Daughter to her Apartment, where he stay’d a little while, and then retir’d to his own, where he caus’d himself to be undress’d, and went to Bed for a few Hours. About 5 or 6 o’Clock in the Evening he was dress’d, after which he gave public Audiences, or else apply’d himself to something in his Study. At 7 o’Clock he went into the Assembly Room, where he found the Princess and the whole Court; and after having chatted some Time, he sate down to Picquet, or to a Pair of Tables; but when the Game was over, he retired, and the Princess went to Supper.

In the Afternoon, when the Elector was withdrawn, the Princess went into her Lady of Honour’s Apartment, where there was always a great Assembly, and often a Concert, in which the Princess sung some Italian Song or other, together with Signora Claudia, one of her Waiting-Women. This little Concert was made up also of some Musicians selected out of the Elector’s Band, and is one of the completest that I ever heard. The Prince of Sultzbach assisted at it sometimes; but he most commonly retir’d to his Apartment at the same Time that the Elector did to his.

As these Two Princes shew’d me great Marks of their Goodness, the Courtiers too, in Imitation of their Masters, were mighty civil to me: I was invited to the best Houses, and treated every Day with grand Feasts, and fresh Parties of Pleasure; and in a Word I pass’d the little Time I stay’d at Heidelberg very pleasantly. I was so charm’d with that Court, that I had a great Mind to put in for some Employment there; and for that end I engag’d some Persons, who I thought could do me most Service; but notwithstanding the Courtiers seem’d so fond of me, I found a Cabal in my Way, which was powerful enough to hinder me from obtaining my Wish. These were, to my Misfortune, Persons of very good Credit, who did not care to see any body in Place, but such, as they knew, would truckle to them. The Great Chamberlain, to whom I plainly saw I was not acceptable, was one of those who made the greatest Opposition to my Advancement. ’Tis true, that I drew his Resentment upon me by my own Rashness and Folly: For one Day, as I was attending the Elector from the Princess’s Apartment to his own, I went into a Room which, according to the Custom of the Court, no body was permitted to enter, except the Great Chamberlain; but this was more than I then knew, and therefore I went boldly into the Room, when a Harbinger of the Court came, and, with a very impertinent Air, bad me turn out——I ask’d him, Whether he had his Order for saying so from the Elector? He said, No; but from the Great Chamberlain: I then made him an Answer in a Style that surpriz’d him, and bad him tell the Grand Chamberlain something that I knew he would not be pleas’d with: At the same time I talk’d both against the Chamberlain and his Emissary in such a manner as gave Vent to my Spleen, but excluded me from the Service of one of the best Princes in the World. I took Leave afterwards of the Elector, who bad me Farewel, made me a considerable Present, and moreover gave me Letters of Recommendation to Vienna, where I intended to solicit some Employment.

I shall now give you a brief Account of the City and Castle of Heidelberg: The City stands on the Banks of the Neckar, with high Mountains on each Side, and only a narrow Passage between them, from which however there’s a Prospect of the noblest Plain in Germany. In this City there was formerly a famous University, founded by Rupert the Ruddy, Count Palatine and Duke of Bavaria in 1346. Here was to be seen one of the finest Libraries in Europe, but General Tilly carry’d it off in 1622, and sent it to Rome, where it makes a considerable Part of the Vatican Library. Lewis the Dauphin of France, Grandfather of Lewis XV. made himself Master of Heidelberg by a Capitulation in 1698. nevertheless, all manner of Disorders were committed in it; a Part of the Electoral Palace was blown up, the City was burnt, and the very Corpses of the Electors, which were in the Coffins with the Ornaments of their Dignity, were dragg’d out of their Graves into the Square: And the French would undoubtedly have committed greater Cruelties, if the Army of the Empire had not advanc’d towards Heidelberg, of which the Germans made themselves Masters; and the Governor was prosecuted for Treachery, and sentenc’d to have his Choice, Whether to die by the Sword, or to have his Coat of Arms defac’d, his Sword broke, to be kick’d by the Hangman, and turn’d out of the Army with his Life: But he was so mean-spirited, as to prefer Infamy to Death, and retir’d to Hildesheim, where he has the Misfortune to be still living.

Some Time after this, the Marshal de Lorge attack’d Heidelberg, but he could not master it, tho’ the Place was defenceless. A Song was made upon him, the Burden of which was, He would have taken Heidelberg, if he had found the Door open. There’s no Sign now that Heidelberg was ever ruin’d; ’tis well rebuilt; and if the present Elector had continued his Residence in it, would have been one of the finest Towns in Germany; but ’twas owing to the Protestants, that the Elector remov’d to Manheim. What gave Occasion to it was this: The Protestants of Heidelberg and the Catholics have one Church between them, where the Nave of it belongs to the Protestants, and the Choir to the Catholics. When the present Elector had fix’d his Residence at Heidelberg, he desir’d that this Church, in which the Electors are interr’d, might be intirely Catholic; and for this end he made a Proposal to the Protestants, to give up the Nave, and engag’d that another Church should be built for them. The Inhabitants were very willing to consent to it, but the Ministers oppos’d it, and represented to the Citizens, that ’twas of dangerous Consequence to resign that Church, which was included in the Treaty of Westphalia, and in all the Treaties that had been made with the Princes of Neubourgh, on their Accession to the Electorate; that, after such a Resignation was once made, they could no longer expect the Protection of the Powers of their own Communion; and finally, that even the new Church, which was promis’d to be built for them, might with very great Ease be taken from them. The Elector having declar’d that he would be obey’d, the Ministers apply’d to the Protestant Body at the Dyet of the Empire. The Affair made a great Noise; and the Elector threatened the Inhabitants to abandon them; but they did not seem to be much concern’d at it, because they imagin’d, that if the Court went, the Regency and the Courts of Justice would remain with them, as they did in the Time of the late Elector. Nevertheless they were out in their Calculation, and the Elector, justly incens’d at the Disrespect of his Subjects, abandon’d them, and transfer’d his Court and all the Tribunals to Manheim; so that the Citizens, whose sole Dependance was on the Court, or the Officers of those Tribunals, are now very poor. They were quickly sensible of the Error they had committed, and went and threw themselves at the Elector’s Feet; but the Prince gave no Ear to them, and has caus’d the City and Castle of Manheim to be rebuilt.

The Castle of Heidelberg to this Day shews the Marks of the Disorder committed there by the French; for there’s a great Part of it in Ruins; and out of Four considerable Mansions, of which it consisted, there was only one that was not damag’d. That which remains of the Palace is in a Stile of Architecture, which I should be at a Loss to explain; ’tis neither Gothic nor Modern, but a Rhapsody of all the Orders heap’d one upon another, without Fancy or Judgment; as if the Architect who conducted the Work, had only design’d a Building of great Expence, without troubling himself whether it was done well or ill. This Palace stands upon a very high Hill, with a magnificent Terrass towards the Town, from whence there’s a Prospect of the Plain and of the Country too for several Leagues. The Inside of the Palace is scarce more regular than the Outside. The Elector’s Apartment consists of a long Suite of Rooms, without Beauty or Proportion. Nor is there any thing agreeable in the whole but its Situation, which is owing to the Prospect that it commands. The other Apartments are very small, and of pretty difficult Access, because of a great many little Steps that lead up and down to them.

In the Vaults of this Palace there’s the Tun, so famous for its enormous Size; ’tis said to contain 26,250 Gallons Paris Measure. The Electors have had frequent Carousals on the Platform which is over it. I own to you, that I can’t comprehend what Pleasure there can be in Tippling-Bouts of this Kind, at a Place where one cannot be at Ease; since a Man need not be very tall, for his Head to touch the Roof of the Vault, which besides is very dark.

As I was preparing to set out for Vienna where I intended, as I said, to sollicit Employment, I receiv’d a Letter from Paris, with Advice that the Storm I so much dreaded was dispers’d, and that all my Fears were ill grounded, the Regent having no manner of Suspicion of me, but on the contrary, more inclin’d than ever to shew me the Effects of his Protection; thereupon I was earnestly exhorted to return to Paris, which Advice coming from a good Hand, I made no Scruple to comply with it.

At my Arrival there I went to the Royal Palace as before: The Regent gave me a very good Reception, and Madame made me so welcome, that it confirm’d my Hopes, that I should at length obtain something at the Court of France. I found People very much divided about the War which had been just declar’d against Spain: The French were indeed for a War, but they were sorry to make it against a Prince who was born among them, and for whose Establishment they had expended so many Millions, and so much Blood. The Regent was even at a Loss to find any one to command the Army, because several had excus’d themselves. Only the Marshal de Berwic, the Natural Son of James II. King of England, prefer’d the Service of the Regency to the old Obligations he had to the King of Spain. His Catholic Majesty, whose Forces this Duke had commanded, had heap’d Favours upon him; he had not only made him and his Son Grandees of Spain, but had moreover granted to both of ’em the Golden Fleece, and the Duchy of Liria for his Son and his Posterity. Nevertheless, he accepted of the Command with Pleasure, and set out for Spain.

The Regent having engag’d the Prince of Conti to take upon him the Command of the Cavalry, order’d him 100,000 Crowns for his Equipage, and granted him 60,000 Livres a Month to keep an open Table; besides which, his Horses were to be kept at the King’s Expence. When his Royal Highness had appointed these Two Generals, he was not very much at a Loss for subaltern Officers: To encourage them to serve with the more Zeal, there was a great Promotion, consisting of 6 Lieutenant-Generals, 72 Major-Generals, and 196 Brigadiers. The Regent also gave Pensions to above Threescore Officers, who repair’d to the Marshal de Berwic in Navarre, where the Campaign was open’d by the Siege of Fontarabia. At the same Time the Regent caus’d a Manifesto to be publish’d, which was couch’d in Terms full of Regard to the King of Spain, Cardinal Alberoni being reproach’d for every Thing that was blameworthy in that Prince’s Conduct; and accus’d of being the Author of the War between the Two Crowns, and of having hinder’d the King his Master from accepting the Treaty of the Quadruple Alliance, a Treaty which had not been concluded, said the Regent, but for the Welfare of Europe, and particularly of France and Spain. His Royal Highness protested, that the War was only made to induce the King of Spain to a Peace; and affirm’d, That France did not mean to make any Conquest upon his Dominions; and that if she was compell’d to do it, she should be always ready to restore such Conquests at the Peace.

Cardinal Alberoni dispers’d several Pieces in the Name of his Master, by which he invited the French Soldiers to take the Part of his Catholic Majesty; and to succeed the better in this Design, he engag’d the King of Spain to head his Army, hoping, that upon his very first Appearance, one Half of the Army of France would desert to his Standard. The Cardinal being full of Notions so chimerical and so injurious to Officers and Troops, as incapable of Cowardice as of Treachery; he oblig’d the Chevalier de S—— who had been a Colonel in France, but by Misfortunes was forc’d to go to Spain, to write to some of the chief Commanders, and solicit them to come over with their Regiments to the Spanish Service. The Chevalier, who built Hopes of a considerable Fortune upon the Success of this Project, wrote to the Lieutenant-Colonel of Normandy, and sent the Letter to him by an Officer, who was indeed a Gentleman, but at that Time committed an Action unworthy of that Character. This Officer came to the French Army, and gave the Letter to the Person it was directed to, who carrying it to the Marshal de Berwic, he caus’d the unfortunate Courier to be arrested, and hang’d up in Two Hours after. The Cardinal was very much mortify’d by having miscarry’d in this Attempt, not considering that the same was impracticable, by reason the Fidelity of the French Officers was never to be corrupted; but it was not so at that Time with the Soldiers, of whom a great Number deserted to the Spanish Army. Persons of Credit, who at that Time saw Cardinal Alberoni in private, assur’d me, that Minister was so fully persuaded that whole Regiments at a Time would come over to the Spanish Service; that when he was told 50 or 100 Deserters, more or less, were newly come; What signifies that, said he? His Majesty wants to see Colours and Standards arrive, and not a Handful of Men. The Cardinal had a great many Fortune-hunters about him, who were continually telling him, that intire Battalions were just coming over; and by the Favour of such Predictions, which never came to any Thing, they got out of him what they wanted, for no other Consideration but a sorry improbable Scheme, and which tended even sometimes to deceive the Minister and betray him. One may guess at the Character of those Gentlemen by one F——, who had been a Reformado-Colonel in France, but being press’d hard by merciless Creditors, could find no other Means to escape from their ill Humour, than by taking Shelter under Cardinal Alberoni. This F—— was a terrible Rattle, and could rodomontade better than any body. The Minister made him a Brigadier, and withal gave him a Gratuity of 100 Pistoles; but our Spark not thinking this sufficient, wanted forsooth to be a Major-General, and teiz’d the Cardinal for it to such a Degree, that to get rid of such an importunate Solicitor, his Eminency was oblig’d to promise him, that it should not be long before he should be prefer’d. My Gentleman had no Time to wait, and renew’d his Solicitations; but being put off, he was quite out of Patience, and at last declar’d, that he would serve no longer if he was not made a Major-General. His Eminence grew angry, so that F—— thought it was proper to submit, or at least to assume a submissive Air. Mean while he study’d Revenge, and imagin’d the only way to make his Fortune in France would be, to seize the Cardinal, and run away with him to the Regent. The Thing that remain’d to be consider’d was, what Methods he should take to succeed; and ’tis even said, that he had laid his Plot so well, that had it not been for the Treachery of one of the Conspirators who discover’d the whole Mystery, the same would have succeeded. The Cardinal caus’d F—— to be arrested, and sent Prisoner to Pampeluna, and from thence to the Castle of Segovia, where he was try’d, and would infallibly have been beheaded, but Cardinal Alberoni happen’d to be disgrac’d at the same Time, as I shall have the Honour to tell you anon.

While these Trifles pass’d in the Spanish Army, the French went on furiously to Action. Fontarabia was closely besieg’d, upon which the King and Queen made as if they would relieve it; but while they were consulting about it, the Marshal de Berwic oblig’d it to capitulate. This Conquest, tho’ to the Advantage of France, did not abate one Jot of that Aversion which the French had to the War. The People contributed to it not without Reluctance; nevertheless it was the Regent’s Interest to continue it; and as he perceiv’d they were already so over-burden’d with Taxes, that ’twas in vain to think of creating new ones, he contriv’d new Methods to fill the Treasury. He obtain’d an Arret of Council for making a considerable Number of Bank Bills, those which had been made before having been soon snatch’d up. Then the Council pass’d another Arret, for diminishing the Value of the Species. The Bustle this Arret occasion’d at Paris is not to be imagin’d; every body was glad to part with their Cash, upon which they apprehended there would be a Loss, and they hurry’d to receive Paper in Exchange, upon the Promise which the Council had made, that the Value of the Bills should be fix’d, so as never to rise nor fall. Nevertheless, it was not long before the People seriously reflected upon the Invalidity of the Matter, into which their Gold and Silver was transform’d, and the Hurry to the Bank abated. But the Regent soon contriv’d a way to bring in the little Cash that remain’d in private Hands; for he caus’d an Arret of Council to pass, which forbad any one’s having more than 500 Livres about him, upon the Penalty of a great Fine. In Pursuance of this Arret, People began again to change their Species for Bank Bills, which were in Truth more commodious than Cash, because People might then carry the Value of several Millions about them, without sweating under the Load. This was a rare way to thrive, when a Man carry’d his whole Estate thus in his Pocket!

By this Means did the Duke Regent provide for the immense Charges of the War with Spain, which was carry’d on with Vigour; and soon after the taking of Fontarabia, the French Army laid Siege to St. Sebastian, which held but Twenty-five Days, when both the Town and Castle surrender’d.

As long as the War continued with Success in Spain I never left soliciting at the Royal Palace, but always in vain. I spent most of my Time in the Regent’s Antichamber, and now-and-then went for Recreation to the House of Madame de R——, whom I have not had the Honour of mentioning to you for a good while, but my Passion was now grown cool, so that all those Visits were but a melancholy Relief in the Situation that I then stood in. My Friends made me reflect seriously on the small Hopes I ought to entertain of succeeding at the Court of France. The Abbe de Asfeld perceiving the Anxiety I was under, took the Advantage of it to drive me, as I may term it, from a Place where I lost my Time, and spent the little Money I had to no Purpose; therefore I left Paris once more, and travelled by the Way of Metz, to avoid the troublesome Questions of the King’s Lieutenant at Toul.

I pass’d thro’ St. Menehoult, which is a Town in Champagne, built in a Morass, between Two Eminencies. A little after I was there, it had the Misfortune to be burnt. I was told, that the Jews of Metz offer’d to rebuild it intirely, on condition they might be permitted to have a Synagogue there.

From St. Menehoult I went to Verdun, an Episcopal City, whose Bishops take the Titles of Counts of Verdun, and Princes of the Holy Empire. This Diocese makes Part of the Three Bishopricks yielded to France by Lorrain. The Cathedral is dedicated to our Lady. In this Church there’s a Well, which is preserv’d there for a Supply of Water in case of Fire, because the Place being on a very high Ground, it would be difficult to bring Water to it.

From Verdun I went to Metz, where I made some Stay. This is a very large Town, at the Conflux of the Moselle and the Seille. It was heretofore the Capital of Austrasia, and afterwards reckon’d as an imperial City till 1552, that the Constable of Montmorency made a Conquest of it for Henry II. King of France. The Emperor Charles V. try’d in vain to retake it, when the Duke of Guise, who commanded in the Place, acquir’d great Reputation in the Defence of it, and oblig’d him to raise the Siege, at which the Emperor was so mortify’d, that he resign’d his Dominions, and retir’d to a Cloyster. Metz, Toul and Verdun were confirm’d to France in 1559, by the Treaty of Chateau-Cambresis, and this Cession was afterwards confirm’d by the Peace of Munster in 1648.

The Cathedral of Metz, which is dedicated to St. Stephen, is a Church of greater Note for its Antiquity than for its Beauty. The most remarkable Thing in it is its baptismal Font, which is of one intire Piece of Porphyry about 10 Foot in Length.

There is very good Company at Metz, and I should have been glad to have stay’d there longer, if my private Affairs would have permitted it. There is a Parliament, which consists of a good Number of Men of Quality, who are all very rich. Besides, here is always a strong Garison, and several Persons of easy Fortunes, who commonly spend the Winter here. When I was here, M. de Saillant was the commanding Officer. He liv’d with Splendor, and I commonly din’d with him, and supp’d with the Intendant of the Province, who was then M. de Celi of the Harlay Family, and was very much esteem’d.

When I set out from Metz, I struck into the Road for Germany, and went to Spires. This Town may be consider’d as a Monument of the Ravage of War, there being a great many Ruins to be seen in it, which are the Remains of the Houses burnt by the French, in the War they made for the Destruction of the Palatinate. It was formerly the Seat of the Imperial Chamber, which after ’twas ruin’d, was transfer’d to Wetzlar. Spires is the See of a Bishop Suffragan to the Bishop of Mentz.

I pass’d the Rhine at Spires, over a Bridge of Boats, and arrived in a few Hours at Heidelberg, from whence I went to Stutgard, and so to Ulm.[3] This is one of the most considerable Cities in Germany, and has magnificent Structures both sacred and prophane, and great Squares adorn’d with Fountains. Our Lady’s, which is the most considerable of all the Churches, belongs to the Lutherans, who are the Magistrates of the City; but the Roman Catholics are allow’d the free Exercise of their Religion here. This City was formerly but a Village, which Charlemain granted to the Abbey of Reichenau. The Inhabitants of Ulm redeem’d their Liberty on the Payment of a considerable Sum, after which they got their Town made an Imperial City, and at last it became the Capital of Swabia.

Ulm is very well fortify’d; it maintains a stout Garison, and its Ramparts are furnish’d with good Cannon; nevertheless, the Elector of Bavaria took it with Ease in the Beginning of the late War, when that Prince declar’d for his Nephew the King of Spain, tho’ ’tis said, his Electoral Highness had a Correspondence at the same time in the Town. But the Battle of Hochstet help’d to restore it to its Liberty, and notwithstanding the Menaces of the Marshal de Villars, it receiv’d an Imperial Garison.

From Ulm I went to Augsbourg[4], a very ancient City, where a Roman Colony was planted by the Emperor Augustus, from whom it had the Latin Name Augusta. It has from time to time undergone several Revolutions: In 1518 Luther came hither to give a public Account of his Doctrine; and in 1530, Charles V. summon’d the Dyet of the Empire hither, which Dyet was famous for the noted Confession of Augsbourg, that the Protestants presented to the Emperor. In another Dyet held in 1548, the same Charles V. propos’d that Formulary call’d the Interim, with regard to the Communion in both Kinds, and the Marriage of Priests: This Formulary has done irreparable Injury to the Catholic Religion.

Augsbourg had a very great Share in the Civil Wars between our Ancestors, on account of Religion. During that Period, the Protestants seiz’d the City, and turn’d out the Bishop and Clergy; but Charles V. having retaken it, re-establish’d the Romish Religion in it, and alter’d the whole Government, which continued in that State till the Beginning of April 1552, when the Protestants took it again, and restor’d what the Emperor had destroy’d; and at length a Peace was concluded at Augsbourg; but the City did not long enjoy the Sweets of it, and Violences were soon committed on both Sides. The famous Gustavus Adolphus, King of Sweden, came to the Aid of the Protestants. He arriv’d at Augsbourg in 1632. The Inhabitants paid him extraordinary Honours, which was very provoking to the Catholic Princes, and to the Duke of Bavaria, who Two Years after punish’d them for it. This Prince having declared himself the Protector of the ancient Religion, besieg’d Augsbourg, and reduc’d the Citizens to such Extremity, that they eat Rats, Cats, and even human Flesh. It was settled at the Peace of Westphalia, that the Catholics and Lutherans should tolerate one another, which was afterwards punctually observ’d. Nevertheless, this City was again molested by the Elector of Bavaria in the last War, when he made himself Master of it, but his Troops abandon’d it immediately after the Battle of Hochstet. After the Peace of Westphalia, the Emperor Leopold summon’d the Dyet of the Empire to Augsbourg in 1690, and there he caus’d himself to be crown’d, and his Son Joseph to be elected King of the Romans.

The assembling of the Dyets, and the flourishing Trade at Augsbourg, have render’d it one of the most magnificent Cities in Germany. Its Squares are large, its Streets spacious, and its Fountains very beautiful. The Town-House is one of the finest Buildings that I have seen. ’Tis a vast square Edifice, well built of Free-Stone. The Porch is all of Marble. Almost all the Rooms are wainscotted and ceil’d with very fine Timber. There’s a Hall 110 Feet long, 58 broad, and 52 Feet in Height, the Pavement of which is Marble, and its Walls adorn’d with Paintings, intermix’d with Emblems and Devices relating to the Government. The Ceiling, which exceeds all the rest for its Beauty, has Compartments, the Squares and Pannels whereof are inrich’d with Sculptures, very finely gilt, and full of beautiful Pictures and other Ornaments. The Cathedral is large and spacious, with a most remarkable great Gate, all of Brass, over which there are several Scripture Passages, represented in Basso-Relievo of very nice Workmanship. The Episcopal Palace has nothing extraordinary. The present Bishop is of the Family of Newbourg, and Brother to the Elector of Triers, and the Elector Palatine. The Dignity of Prince of the Empire is annex’d to that of Bishop of Augsbourg, in the same manner as it is to all the Bishopricks of Germany. He is chose by the Chapter, which is compos’d of Canons, who are noble by Sixteen Descents. The Bishop’s Sovereignty extends over almost all the Territory of Augsbourg.

I am now going to give you an Account of one of the most splendid Courts in all Germany, I mean that of Bavaria, which I had the Honour to see at Munich, whither I went at my Departure from Augsbourg.[5]Munich, which is the Capital of Bavaria, stands upon the River Iser, that falls into the Danube, for which Reason the Neighbourhood is almost all Meadow Land. The Town is not large, but very well built, so that I have scarce seen any that makes so gay an Appearance. Munich contains several stately Buildings, both sacred and profane. Among the former, the Two finest, that I took Notice of, are, our Lady’s Church, and that of the Jesuits.

In our Lady’s Church there’s a magnificent Tomb of the Emperor Lewis IV. adorn’d with Figures of Marble and Brass. There’s one Thing remarkable in this Church, and that is, at the Entrance of the great Gate there’s a particular Place, from whence, as one stands, we observe such a Regularity in the Disposition of the Pillars which support the Roof, that there is not a Window to be perceiv’d in it, tho’ there are a great many.

The Jesuits Church is also extremely magnificent. It consists intirely of one Nave, very lofty and spacious, the Roof of which is very noble, and adorn’d all over with Sculpture. The Vestry contains a great deal of Wealth in Relics, and in Vessels of Gold and Silver.

Their College is as magnificent as their Church, there can be nothing finer; and I could not help thinking the Outside of it exceeded the Electoral Palace. In the Inside there are great Rooms, which serve as Classes for the Scholars that come to study with them.

The Elector’s Palace deserves a diligent View, for it may compare with the Palaces of the most powerful Sovereigns; and I think that, excepting the Palace of the Tuileries, there’s none so big. Yet for all this it has one Defect, common to the Palaces of all Sovereigns, it having been built at several Times, and being by Consequence irregular. The first Time I saw it, I own to you that I was disgusted at this Irregularity; and that it fell vastly short of the Idea I had conceiv’d of the Building from what I had read of it in the Relations publish’d by Travellers.

Of all the Parts of the Electoral Palace, there’s not one that is more magnificent than that which is commonly call’d the Emperor’s Apartment: The principal Room in it is a Hall, which is 118 Feet long, and 52 broad, and may be reckon’d a complete Piece of Work; ’tis adorn’d with fine Paintings, representing sacred and profane History, which are rang’d in exact Order, one over-against the other; and under each of the historical Passages there are Latin Verses explaining the Subject: The Chimney-piece is as magnificent as the rest of the Apartment; on the Top of it there’s the Statue of Porphyry, of admirable Workmanship, representing Virtue, holding a Spear in her Right Hand, and a Branch of gilt Palm in her Left. The Ceiling is adorn’d with gilt Compartments, and with Paintings of a noble Design.

Going out of the great Hall, we pass thro’ a very spacious Antichamber into the Hall of Audience, which is very much ornamented, as is all the rest. ’Tis there that the Electors give Audience to the foreign Ministers, and there are Eight great Compartments, shewing the different manners after which the foreign Princes give Audience to Ambassadors. There are other Pictures representing the Histories of several Judgments pass’d by Sovereigns, that have administer’d Justice in Person; and these Pictures are accompany’d with Hieroglyphics, Emblems and Devices suitable to the Subject.

The long Gallery is very magnificent, both for its Extent and for the Pieces it contains. ’Tis adorn’d with Basso Relievo’s of a noble Design, and with costly Pictures, among which are the Effigies and Names of 36 Princes, the Predecessors of the present Elector. There are also very fine Maps of the several Provinces, Cities and Appendages of his Electoral Highness’s Dominions. There’s another Gallery not quite so big indeed, but as finely adorn’d, and especially with very large Pictures, which represent the Histories of the Princes and Princesses of the Family of Bavaria. The Stair-case which leads to the grand Apartment I just now mention’d, is answerable to all the rest in Magnificence, there being nothing to be seen all about it but marble and Gold.

The Apartment which the Elector commonly resides in is very spacious, but irregular. I thought the Chambers and Closets a little too dark. The whole is adorn’d with rich Ceilings and magnificent Tapestries. The Electoress’s Apartment communicates with the Elector’s by a private Gallery. All the Princes and Princesses are equally well lodg’d, tho’ the Chambers of the Apartments are a little too small.

The great Chapel is very fine, and would be much more so, if it was more lightsome. The Electoress has one, which joins to her Apartment, but is not near so large as the former, and has the same Fault; tho’ otherwise ’tis a notable Piece of Building, and contains extraordinary Wealth.

The Garden of the Electoral Palace is not of the modern Taste. Round the one half of it there’s a grand Piazza, adorn’d with Pictures, representing the several Histories of the Princes of the Bavarian Family, which Pictures, I am told, were the Model for the Hangings in the Elector’s Wardrobe. At the End of this Piazza there’s a very fine House, the lower Parts of which serve as a Greenhouse for the Orange Trees. In the upper Part there are very commodious Apartments; where, in the Summertime, the Elector has a Drawing-Room. Near this Orangery there’s a Sort of Menagery, in which are kept Lyons and other wild Beasts.

The same Piazza leads also to the Riding-House, which is one of the finest I ever saw. ’Tis 366 Feet in Length, and 76 in Breadth. It has 80 great Windows, and all round within there runs a fine Corridor or Gallery to hold the Spectators, when there are any Carrousels or Tournaments. This Corridor is parted by the Elector’s Box, which is big enough to contain all the Electoral Family, and adorn’d with very rich Sculptures. The Gallery of the Palace, which reaches to the grand Piazza of the Garden, leads also to the Opera Room, which is very large, and very high. The Stage is answerable to the Grandeur and Magnificence of the Room, and the Decorations are superb, and very numerous. As the Electoral Prince is very fond of Music, he prefers the Opera to any other Performance, and gives Orders himself for what may serve to render it most splendid. You will judge that no Cost is spar’d, the Decorations, Machines, Habits and every Thing being equally noble, and well contriv’d.

Upon the Days that any Feast is celebrated at Court, as Birth-days and the like, when there’s an Opera, at the Overture there descends from the Top of the Stage a Lustre of extraordinary Grandeur and Structure, which rises up again immediately after the first Act; a Custom, for which I never could yet hear of any good Reason. This Lustre surprizes the more, because it comes unexpected. The Ceiling opens to let it down, as well as to take it up again.

’Tis said, that when the Great Gustavus Adolphus, King of Sweden, made his victorious Entry at Munich, one of that great Monarch’s Generals advis’d him to burn the Palace of the Electors, but he refus’d to do it, in which he was Greater than the Great Alexander, who reduc’d the superb Palace of Darius to a Heap of Ashes. The only Thing that made the Swedish Monarch uneasy was, that he could not carry to Sweden the fine Chimney-piece in the great Hall, that I mention’d to you.

I will next treat of the Princes that compose the August Family of Bavaria, which is one of the most Illustrious in Europe. The Elector’s Name was Maximilian Emanuel Mary: No Man could have a grander Air, or a better Shape than this Prince had; and with those external Qualities, he had others, without which the former are of little or no Value. He was generous, affable, compassionate, and in Consequence ador’d by his Subjects: He knew how to support his Dignity with Grandeur: His Expence was great, but well-judg’d: He marry’d to his first Wife the Archduchess, Daughter of the Emperor Leopold, by whom he had a Son, who was snatch’d from him by Death, when the young Prince was become Heir to one of the chief Crowns in the World, after the Death of Charles II. King of Spain, by Right of Succession from his Grandmother, who was the Daughter of Philip IV.

After the Death of the Electoress, the Elector marry’d a Princess of Poland, viz. Theresa Cunegonda Sobieski, Daughter to King John Sobieski. This Princess lives so retir’d, that, excepting her own Family, she sees no body but Two or Three Ladies and her Confessor. She resides most commonly at Taco, a Seat given her by the Elector. When the Princess is at Munich, she employs herself in Works of Charity, one while visiting sick Women, at other Times the several Convents; and in these Visits she never fails to leave Marks of her Bounty.

The Elector has had several Children by her: The First is the Electoral Prince, whose Name is Albert Cajetan: This Prince gave Proof in the War in Hungary, and at the Siege of Belgrade, that he would be the Heir of the great Qualities of the Elector his Father, as well as of his Dominions: He acquir’d a high Reputation at Vienna, and every body was charm’d with the grand Presence and Talents of this Prince, whose Deportment to all that came to him could not be exceeded for Civility. He talk’d Latin, French and Italian with as much Ease as his native Language.

The Duke Ferdinand is the Elector’s Second Son, tho’ he was first marry’d to a Princess of Neubourg, a Niece of the Elector Palatine. This Duke is the handsomest of the Elector’s Sons; he is perfectly well-shap’d, and has the finest Head of Hair that can be seen; in short, he is a very amiable Prince: He loves Pleasure, but is not a Slave to it; his favourite Sport is Hunting, which he follows commonly with the Princes his Brothers.

Duke Clement is the Elector’s Third Son, and he who has hitherto been Fortune’s greatest Favourite. When I went to Munich, this Prince had been newly elected Bishop of Munster and Paderborn, in the Room of the Duke his Brother, who dy’d at Rome a little after his Election to the Bishoprick. Duke Clement was already Bishop of Ratisbon, when he was chose Bishop of Munster and Paderborn; but he resign’d Ratisbon to Duke Theodore, the last of the Bavarian Princes. These Four Princes, and a Princess, who turn’d Nun at the Time that I was at Munich, are the Elector’s whole Family, and the only Princes of the House of Bavaria.

You know, Madame, that the Electoral Dignity pass’d to this Family after the Disgrace of Frederic Elector Palatine, King of Bohemia, who having been put under the Ban of the Empire, was turn’d out of the Upper Palatinate, which was given to the Bavarian Family, as a Reward for the Attachment they had shewn to the House of Austria, and for the Expences they were at in the War. At the Treaty of Westphalia this Grant was confirm’d to the Bavarian Family, and the Son of the unfortunate Frederic recover’d his Dignity of Elector, with this Difference, that whereas before he was the first Elector, he was now become the last. The Dukes of Bavaria remain’d in Possession of the Upper Palatinate, and of the Dignity of first Elector. There’s none of ’em all that came up to the Elector Maximilian Emanuel, and never was the Court of Munich so splendid and numerous, as in his Time: The Ceremonial observ’d there is very much the same with that of the Imperial Court.

As to the Amusements of the Court of Bavaria, they pass’d their Time much after this manner: The Elector, who was an early Riser, went to Mass about 10 o’Clock, and afterwards held a Council, if it happen’d to be Council-Day, or otherwise his Electoral Highness play’d at Passage till Dinner-time. Then he return’d to his own Apartment, where he din’d privately, and during that Time, no body was admitted, except the Princes, the Officers in Waiting, and the Chamberlains. The Princes also din’d by themselves, tho’ they often admitted Gentlemen to eat with them. The Electoress, the Princess and the Duchess had also their separate Tables serv’d by the Elector’s Officers, which occasion’d an amazing Expence, as did also the Hunting Equipages; for the Elector went one Way, the Electoral Prince another, and Duke Ferdinand another, so that there were near 400 Horses running here and there every Day. When they return’d from the Chace, the Princes went and pass’d the Evening with the Duchess, where they found a great Assembly of Ladies; the Elector also went thither sometimes, and play’d at Pharao, or some other Game. Towards Supper-time he retired to his Apartment, where he supp’d with the Ladies. The Princes went and supp’d with the Electoral Prince, and the Duchess supp’d at her own House with the Gentlemen and Ladies.

On the Drawing-Room Days (which were Three Times a Week) Things were order’d otherwise. The Ladies went to the Electoress’s Apartment, or to the Orangery, according to the Place where the Drawing-Room was appointed. When it was kept at the Electoress’s Apartment, the Ladies went thither in the Court Dress, whereas at the Orangery they might appear in a Mantua. The Elector and the Princes were also there: His Electoral Highness convers’d awhile with the Ladies; after which they sat down to Play, and every one chose what Game or Partner they lik’d best. When the Play was over, the Company went into another Room, where there was a great Table well serv’d, at which, after the Elector, the Princes and the Ladies had taken their Places, if there was Room, they admitted Gentlemen to sit down with them, either Foreigners, or even such as were in the Elector’s Service. At this Table no Rank was observ’d, and the very Princes sat down where they could get Places.

When the Court was at Nymphenbourg, the Elector’s Pleasure-house, the Diversions were much the same as at the Orangery, except that they took the Air more; and that the Ladies might enjoy this Pleasure to greater Perfection, there was always a Number of Calashes, each drawn by a Pair of Horses, which carry’d Two Ladies, and was drove by some Gentleman, while One or Two others stood behind them. Those who prefer’d taking the Air by Water, might easily be accommodated, there being for that Purpose upon the Canal Gondolas and Gondoliers after the Venetian manner, which were always ready for Hire.

On Sundays, Holidays and Days of Rejoicing, the Elector din’d in public, with the Princes and Princesses of his Family, during which the Chamberlains waited, and at Night there was a Concert. The Ladies in their Court Dress met in the Apartment of the Electoress or the Duchess, and accompany’d those Princesses to the Opera, after which they return’d to the same Apartment; where, till Supper-time, they play’d; upon those Days the Ladies din’d with the Elector: Sometimes too, they carry’d Services for Three or Four Persons, and laid them upon the Gaming Tables, which was very convenient for those who were not willing to separate Company: After Supper there was commonly a Ball.

During the Summer, the Elector never fail’d to repair every Thursday Evening to the Orangery, to hold a Drawing-Room, after which he went and lay at Nymphenbourg, from whence he return’d upon Saturdays, to hold Councils on Sundays in the Morning; and in the Afternoon he went to some Pleasure-house.

This, which was the common Life at Court, was very often diversify’d, by Parties for Hunting, Fishing, or other Pleasures. The Elector himself gave Direction for all the Feasts he made, and I believe it would have been difficult to have found any body that understood the Matter so well; every Thing being conducted with such charming Delicacy and Regularity, that I own to you, Madame, I thought myself in some enchanted Island. What contributed to render the Court of Munich yet more splendid, was, the Presence of the Count de Charolois, a Prince of the Blood of France, who made some Stay here at his Return from the War in Hungary[6]. That young Prince being spurr’d on by Glory, thought he could not better signalize his Valour, than by bearing Arms against the Infidels, with whom the Emperor had just declared War; but as he plainly foresaw, it would be difficult for him to obtain Leave from his Mother and the Regent to go out of the Kingdom, he resolv’d to get away without speaking a Word of it to any body but Two Persons that he carry’d along with him. The Day that he put this Project in Execution, he set out early in the Morning, on Pretence of going a Hunting. He travell’d Seven Post Stages without Baiting, with the Horses of the Duke his Brother, and he was got as far as the Austrian Netherlands, when they thought at Chantilly he was but in the Forest. He went to Liege, and from thence to Bon, but always with an Equipage that did not denote his Quality. From Bon he proceeded thro’ Munich to Vienna; from whence without visiting either the Emperor or Empress he repair’d to Belgrade, which was then besieg’d by Prince Eugene of Savoy. He distinguish’d himself greatly in this Campaign, and gave Demonstration that he was worthy of his Illustrious Blood. After the Reduction of Belgrade, he went to Vienna, where he stay’d some time, and then travell’d to Italy, from whence he return’d to Munich. The Elector, who had been perfectly well receiv’d by the Duchess, who was the young Count’s Mother, took a Pleasure to shew his Gratitude to the Prince her Son. He therefore lodg’d him at the Castle, and defray’d his and his Attendants Charges all the Time that he stay’d at Munich; he provided a Table for him in his Apartment for Twelve People; and when he din’d with the Elector, which he never did but with Ladies in Company; and when they were to go out a Hunting, his Gentlemen had a Table allow’d them, which was spread for Eight; but some Difficulties in the Point of Rank prevented the Count from dining in public with the Elector and the Princes. His Electoral Highness gave him a certain Number of Officers, Pages and Footmen to wait on him, and Care was taken to chuse such only to attend him as talk’d French; but he soon acquainted himself with the German Language to such a Degree, that the Country-People understood him better than they did me. Of this I had Experience one Day as I went a Hunting with him, when he bad me ask something of a Peasant, who I saw by his Looks did not know what I meant; but the Count accosted him with the same Demand, and the Peasant understood him immediately, by reason of the Bavarian Accent, in which that Prince express’d himself happily: He return’d to Chantilly the 1st of May 1720.

Three Quarters of a League from Munich is the stately Palace of Nymphenbourg[7], to which I have had the Honour to acquaint you the Court repaired very often. ’Tis impossible for a Place to be more charming; the Gardens especially are very beautiful: A grand Avenue leads to Nymphenbourg, which runs from Munich to the Iron Gates of the Palace. In the Front of this Palace, next to the Court, there are Three Pavilions, which are connected by Two Apartments for Lodgings. The middlemost Pavilion, which is larger than the other Two, is square, and contains a great Hall, finely adorn’d with Architecture, and an Apartment on each Side. The Two Side Pavilions are terminated by Two large Pavilions, that run further out, and form Two Wings. On the Side next to the Court there are Steps, by which there is an Ascent up to the Hall; and on the opposite Side there are others, which lead down to the Garden. From the Steps on the Court-side is a Prospect of a large Canal, lin’d on each Side with a Row of Elms, which is separated from the Court by a Grate.

As to the Apartments, they are all of the utmost Magnificence, but the only one that I shall speak of now is the Elector’s. The first Room at the Entrance is very fine, considering its Extent, but not much adorn’d, being altogether bare white Walls, so that only the Ceiling is painted. As one turns to the Right, we enter an Antichamber, which is a Thorowfare both to the Elector’s Apartment, and to another on the Left Hand, then occupied by the Count de Charolois. This Antichamber is wainscotted throughout, and leads to a Gallery, which is also completely wainscotted, the Pannels being painted white with gilt Fillets. There we saw in Compartments very fine Pictures, which represent either Hunting, or the Prospects of the Elector’s several Houses. From this Gallery is an Entrance into a large Antichamber, all over wainscotted, and adorn’d with Chimney and Pier-Glasses and magnificent Pictures. From thence, turning to the Left, we enter into a large Closet, the Furniture of which is a fine Sky-blue Damask, lac’d with Gold. The Ceilings, Doors and Window-Shutters are painted white, with gilt Basso Relievo’s. In this Closet as well as in the Chamber next to it, are a great many very fine Pier-Glasses and Marble Tables: The latter is the Bedchamber; the Furniture and Bed are of blue Damask, as is also the Closet: Out of this Chamber there’s a Passage to a second Closet, furnish’d in the same Taste. These Three Pieces follow one another, and look into the Garden: The last mention’d Closet terminates the Elector’s Apartment, which communicates by little Offices and a Stair-case to a small Apartment which his Electoral Highness lives in, the great Apartment being only for keeping his Court. On the other Side of the Palace are the Apartments of the Electoress and the Princes, who are all lodg’d there very commodiously.

The Gardens of this Palace are very well laid out: As one enters them by the Steps from the Castle, the first Thing one sees is a very fine Parterre, which reaches to a Wood, that is cut into Three great Walks, in Form of a Goose-Foot; in the midst whereof are Three Canals of Spring Water, the middlemost of which runs out of Sight, and has its Issue by Three Waterfalls, in Form of a Cascade. The Wood consists of Groves, adorn’d with Bowers, and noble Water-Works. On the Right Hand of the Garden is a Grove, which contains a Mall; and a little further is a very great Mall, in Form of a Horse-shoe. The Two Ends run to the grand Walk, and contain between them a Pavilion, built in Form of a Cross arch’d, consisting of Two Stories, and forming an Octogon Saloon in the middle with Four Windows, between which are Four Summer Houses, one of which is an Antichamber, the second a Bedchamber, the third a Closet, and the fourth a Stair-case. This House is built in the Form of a Pagod’s Temple, and all the Furniture is Indian, which is the Reason that ’tis call’d Pagodenbourg. Over-against this pretty House, on the Left of the great Canal, are Bagnio’s. Nothing in the World can be better contriv’d, and more charming: All the Ceilings, the Basso Relievo’s and other Ornaments have some Relation or other to the Use for which this House is appropriated. The Baths are of Marble, adorn’d with Statues and Vessels of very great Price.

Tho’ the Elector seem’d to be mightily delighted with Nymphenbourg, yet he was about building another Palace, which was to be call’d Schleisheim: According to the Designs that I saw of it, this Palace must be much larger and more noble than Nymphenbourg, so that they said, that Schleisheim would be the Versailles of Bavaria, and Nymphenbourg the Marly.

I spent my Time so agreeably while I stay’d at Munich, that indeed I was very loth to quit a Place so charming: Nevertheless, I set out with a Heart full of Gratitude for all the Favours I had receiv’d from the Elector, and the Princes his Children.

I lay the first Night at Wasserbourg[8], and from thence went to Passau, which makes a Part of Lower Bavaria, and is a Bishoprick Suffragan of Saltzbourg.[9]Passau is famous for the Treaty which was concluded there between the Emperor Charles and Mauric Elector of Saxony, whereby the Protestant Religion was establish’d and secur’d in Germany, where before it was only tolerated. This is a very pretty City, has fine Houses, and several Churches. The Cathedral, which is a quite new Structure, is very large, and in the Inside very magnificent, being adorn’d all over with Pilasters, and other Embellishments of Architecture, and the Roof painted in Fresco. I was at Divine Service there on Whitsunday, and as every body then made the best Appearance they could, I observ’d the meanest Women of the Town were dress’d in Gowns of black Velvet, and scarlet Petticoats with Gold Lace, and that some of ’em had Pearl Necklaces of Five or Six Rows; and others Gold Chains with Rings, and Ear Pendants of Diamonds.

From Passau I went down the Danube to Lintz, the Capital of Upper Austria; and from thence to Vienna[10], the Capital of Austria, and the ordinary Residence of the Emperors, ever since Maximilian. This City, which was heretofore but a Bishoprick, was lately erected into an Archbishoprick, and the Archbishop takes the Title of Prince. The Cathedral Church, which is dedicated to St. Stephen, is an old Building, very magnificent, but dark: The City stands upon the Danube, an Arm of which separates it from the Suburb, which is call’d Leopoldstat: The Turks have made more than one vain Attempt to be Masters of Vienna. Soliman II. besieg’d it Sept. 25, 1529, but on the 14th of October following Charles V. oblig’d him to raise the Siege. In 1693 the Turks made another Attempt, and besieg’d it with an Army of above 200,000 Men, when the Emperor Leopold retir’d with all his Family to the Castle of Lintz, and left the Command of the City to the Count de Staremberg: The Count was forc’d to sustain terrible Attacks from the Turks, who push’d on their Works with Vigor, and the Place could hold out no longer, when John Sobieski King of Poland advanced to relieve it, at the Head of an Army of Poles. He came in Sight of the Enemy on the 11th of September, and next Day gave them Battle, and obtain’d a complete Victory; for the Turks abandon’d both their Camp and their Artillery, and the Conquerors took a prodigious Booty, particularly such a vast Number of black Cattle, that ’tis said they were sold for Five or Six Florins apiece. The Emperor no sooner receiv’d the Tidings that the Siege was rais’d, but he set out from Lintz for Vienna, where he visited the King of Poland in the open Field, and made his grateful Acknowledgments to him for the signal Service he had then done him.

Vienna receiv’d a great deal of Damage at this Siege; Part of the Imperial Palace being reduc’d to Ashes, as well as several other grand Structures. The Emperor immediately set about repairing those Losses, and the Palace was rebuilt as it was before; and several of the Nobility also caus’d such magnificent Palaces to be erected, that in a short time the Town recover’d its former Splendor.

The Imperial Palace is large, but has nothing else scarce to boast of, for the Apartments are low, dark, and without Ornaments, and the Furniture is very ancient, tho’ scarce any Princes have a finer Treasure in Tapistry; and why ’tis not us’d, I can’t imagine: The Apartments of the Empress Dowager were the only ones fit to lodge in; for that Princess took Care to have them not only rais’d higher, but inlaid and wainscotted, which has given them a certain Air of Majesty they had not before. This Princess’s Apartment is hung with black Velvet, it being the Custom of the Imperial Court, for the Empress Dowagers never to quit their Mourning. The Bedchamber and the Closet call’d la Retirade or the Withdrawing-Room, are the only Two Pieces that are not hung with black, the whole Furniture thereof being grey. For the rest, were a Stranger to see the Palace of Vienna, and to have no Notion of what it is before-hand, he would scarce imagine it to be the Residence of the first Prince of Europe.

The Palace of la Favorita in the Suburb of Vienna, where the Emperor spends the Summer, is even inferior to that in the City. ’Tis a very large House, built upon the Highway, without any Court before it, without Symmetry or Architecture, and which, as to the Outside, looks more like a Convent, than a Royal Palace. The Inside perfectly answers the Outside. There’s an Ascent to the Apartments by a great Stair-case, all of Timber, that leads to a Guard Chamber, which is a Room of no great Extent, and without any manner of Ornament; and from thence there’s an Entrance into other Apartments but half furnish’d, and very low, which in short is the Fault of all the Apartments. The Gardens of the Palace are as inconsiderable as the Building; they being full of large Fruit-trees, but in very bad Order, and I saw nothing there that can be call’d a fine Prospect.

Mean time the Court Nobility are far from being so ill lodg’d as the Emperor, for they have all stately Houses, both in the City and Suburbs. Prince Eugene of Savoy’s Palace is the most magnificent Building that one shall see; for whether you examine the Outside or the Inside of it, the whole is of the best Contrivance, and the utmost Magnificence. The first Hall, which forms the first Piece of the grand Apartment, is all wainscotted, and adorn’d with large Pictures, representing the chief Battles won by Prince Eugene. From this Hall we enter into a large Antichamber, where we see a Suit of Tapistry Hangings, made by the famous Devos of Brussels, where that skilful Artist has represented the principal Transactions of the War to as great Perfection as possible: Out of this Antichamber we go into the Bedchamber; I never saw any thing so rich as the Furniture is there; the Tapistry is roll’d up in Pilasters of green Velvet, embroider’d with Gold, with Figures in Needle Work so finely drawn, that they seem to be Miniatures. This Piece is intirely furnish’d in all that Taste: The Closet next to the Bedchamber is all over gilt; and every thing in general in this Apartment is superb; the Paintings, Looking-Glasses, Marble Tables, the very Arms and Andirons being of most curious Workmanship: I ought not to omit the many fine Lustres, of which that in the Bedchamber is the most magnificent; and I have been told, that it cost 40,000 Florins: As to the Ceiling and other Pieces of Masonry, they are indeed very fine, but not so elegant as noble.

After having taken a full View of the Prince’s Apartments, I was shew’d the Library, which is in as good a Condition as any in Europe. The Books are rang’d in delightful Order, and the pompous Bindings form the finest Scene that can be. Hither the Prince comes every now-and-then to unbend himself from the Fatigues of his great Employments.

The Prince has a magnificent Garden in the Suburb of Vienna, which has a Court before it, that is separated from the Street by an Iron Grate of very curious Workmanship. In this Court is a very large Piece of Water, with a Row of Chestnut-Trees on each Side, that leads to the House, or rather the Castle, for ’tis a great and stately Building: They were still at Work upon it when I saw it. This House fronts the Garden, and takes up almost the whole Breadth of it. The Garden is shelving, for which Reason it was thought proper to place a very fine Cascade in the middle of it. There’s a very neat Structure at the End of it, which, like the House, takes in the whole Breadth of it. Below Stairs is a great Saloon, all lin’d with Marble of several Colours, and a Ceiling adorn’d with fine Paintings: From this Saloon there’s a Passage to a Room on the Left, the Ceiling and Wainscot of which are very fine; and then we enter into a large Closet, and next to that is a Bedchamber, with a Gallery and another large Closet at the End of that; so much for what is on the Left of the Saloon. On the Right Hand is another large Apartment, and the Chapel. The Backside of the Building looks into a great Court, where are the Stables and Coach-houses: ’Tis pity that this Prince, after he had been at so much Expence in this Building, did not buy the Ground where the Empress has since built a Convent. The Prince was advis’d to it at that very Time, but he refus’d, and said, he would not purchase the whole Suburb; to be sure he repents it by this time; for the Convent, which the Empress has caus’d to be erected there, is a great Inconvenience to that Prince, who cannot stir one Step at Home, without being overlook’d by the Nuns.

On the other Side of the City is another Suburb, which is very considerable, and the Walks there are very fine. The Prat, for Instance, is a Place mightily frequented; ’tis a Wood in an Island, form’d by the Danube, where there is such a surprizing Concourse of People in fine Weather, that it may well enough be call’d, The Boulogne Grove of Vienna. As one returns out of this Walk we come to another, call’d The Emperor’s Garden: Here was formerly a beautiful Palace, but the Turks having burnt it the last time they besieg’d Vienna, there is nothing of it to be seen now but the Ruins: The Garden is a large Spot of Ground, and, with a little Expence, might be made very fine, but no body seems to think about it, which I have been told is owing to the surprizing Swarms of Insects the Danube brings hither at certain Times of the Year, so that People who come hither to walk, are forc’d to desert it: When they can come without this Annoyance, the Gentry usually repair hither in the Evening; adjoining to this Garden is a very fine Wood, in which are cut out noble Walks: This, Madame, is all that is most remarkable in Vienna and its Suburbs, as to the Buildings; I will next endeavour to give you an Idea of this Court.

The Court of Vienna is, in my Opinion, the plainest, and at the same time the most magnificent in Europe: To explain this seeming Paradox, I must acquaint you, that, as to the external Appearance of the Emperor’s Houshold, nothing is so plain, nor indeed so dismal: His Liveries are of black Cloth, with a Lace of yellow and white Silk: The Cloathing of his Guards is much the same; and besides, they are not many in Number. The Palace, as I have had the Honour to tell you, is very inconsiderable; yet taking the Court all together, and considering the Number of Great and Petty Officers, the many rich Noblemen that spend high, and the several Princes that are in the Service of his Imperial Majesty, it must be confess’d, that there is not a Court in Europe so splendid as that of Vienna. At the Time that I was there, the Emperor had in his Service Two Brothers of a King, Two Princes of Royal Blood, and a great Number of Princes of Sovereign or other Honourable Families: Nor is there a Court where there is a more sudden Transition from the meanest to the most stately external Appearance, and this they commonly run to such an Extreme, that they absolutely renounce Elegancy, to incumber themselves with Magnificence: For on solemn Days, as those of Births, Marriages, &c. one sees nothing but Gold, Lace and Diamonds without Number: And as soon as these Holidays, which are call’d Gala, are expir’d, they all resume their former Plainness.

After having given you this general Idea of the Court of Vienna, I will acquaint you how they commonly spend their Time: First of all, as soon as the Emperor is risen, he is dress’d; then he reads some Dispatches, and sometimes gives Audience to some Minister, or assists in Council. He afterwards goes to Mass, either at his own Chapel, or to some Church, according to the Festival. On the Days of Ceremony or Festival he is accompany’d by the Nuncio and the Ambassadors, upon which Occasion the Emperor rides thither with very great Pomp. The Grooms of the Imperial Stables on Horseback begin the Cavalcade, then comes an Equerry, and a Coach drawn by Six Horses, in which sits the Master of the Horse: He is follow’d by the Chamberlains, the Knights of the Golden Fleece, and the Ministers, all on Horseback, in black Cloaths, and Cloaks trimm’d with Lace. After these come the Footmen and Heydukes, in an antic Dress, and bare-headed. Their Imperial Majesties Coach comes next, between Two Files of the Hundred Swiss: The Emperor rides always with his Face to the Horses, and the Empress over-against him, unless the Emperor goes into the Country, and then the Empress sits by his Side. The Pages and some of the inferior Officers of the Chamber follow on Horseback, and then Three or Four Coaches, with Six Horses, in which are the Empress’s Ladies: The Cavalcade is clos’d by a Company of the Garison at Vienna, which is maintain’d at the Charge of the City, and mounts Guard at the Emperor’s Palace, his Imperial Majesty having no other Foot Guards.

After Mass is ended, the Emperor returns to his Apartment, preceded by all his Court, as when he came. The Nuncio and the Ambassadors are covered, as is also the Emperor; then come the Empress and the Archduchesses, each led by the Steward of their Houshold.

When the Emperor is return’d to his Apartment, he retires to a Chamber call’d la Retirade, or the Withdrawing-Room, where he stays till Dinner-time, which, when ’tis serv’d up, the great Chamberlain goes and acquaints the Emperor, who comes and sits down at Table with the Empress, attended by all the Ladies. A Chamberlain or Treasurer of the Chambers presents the Bason for their Majesties to wash in, who afterwards seat themselves in Two-arm Chairs: The Table did not appear to me to be serv’d with very great Delicacy. The Plate is old-fashion’d, and all the Dishes were set without any Regularity. Their Imperial Majesties have particular Plates to themselves, for which Reason small Plates are commonly made use of; and I have seen no less than Five or Six Spoons upon the Table at a Time: The Emperor covers himself as soon as he is seated; then the Nuncio and Ambassadors likewise cover themselves, and keep their Standing round the Table, till their Majesties have drank; their Liquor is presented to them by a Chamberlain; after their Majesties have drank to one another’s Healths, the Steward, the great Chamberlain, the Master of the Horse and the Captain of the Guards step forward to receive the Emperor’s Orders, and to know how his Majesty will dispose of himself in the Afternoon. The Ladies of Honour and the Officers belonging to the Empress advance to that Princess in like manner, to know her Pleasure, and then every body retires, unless there is Music, which happens very often: The Dinner does not last much above an Hour: Their Majesties stay at Table till every thing is taken away, even so much as the Cloth, but then a fresh one is laid on, upon which the Treasurer places a Bason and an Ewer of Silver gilt, and presents them to their Majesties to wash. The great Chamberlain presents the Napkin to the Emperor, as the Lady of Honour does to the Empress: This done, their Majesties retire to their Withdrawing-Rooms, tho’ they often go out a Hunting, or to shoot at a Mark.

When the Emperor shoots at a Mark, several Persons are enter’d down in a List to shoot with him, and there are Prizes distributed by those who are of the Society of Shooters, of whom the Emperor gives the first Prize, the Empress the second, and then all the rest, according to the Seniority of their Admission into the Society. At their Return from this Diversion, the Emperor grants Audience to those that send to desire it by the great Chamberlain, who takes Care to let them know the Time when his Majesty is to be spoke with. These Audiences are given without Ceremony, and they that receive them are introduc’d by the Chamberlain in waiting. The Emperor stands up and is cover’d, leaning with his Back against a Table, with a Canopy over him, and an Arm-Chair by his Side: The Person that approaches for Audience bends the Knee Three times, first as he comes in, next when he is in the middle of the Room, and the third time when he begins to speak. The Emperor hearkens with Attention, gives a gracious Answer, and if there be any thing obscure in what is deliver’d to him, he desires an Explanation. When the Person has made an End of speaking, he bends one Knee to the Ground, and stretches forth his Hand, as a Signal that he desires to kiss that of the Emperor, which his Majesty never refuses. Then the Person retires, going backwards, and making the Three Obeisances that he made at Entrance. The same Ceremonies are observ’d in the Audiences of the Empresses; in order to obtain one from the Empress Regent, Application is made to the great Steward of her Household, who desires it, and then notifies what Hour will be most convenient for the Empress to grant it. At these Audiences there attends but one Lady of Honour, who keeps her proper Distance far enough to be out of the Hearing of what is said, while her Majesty’s great Steward stays at the Door in the Antichamber.

A shocking Abuse is crept into the Court of Vienna, in the Article of Audiences: The next Day after they have been had, the Domestics of the great Chamberlain and the great Steward come to demand a Fee for the Service done by their Masters in giving the Notice to their Majesties; and I have known some so impertinent, as to fix the Sum they claim’d a Right to. The Hundred Swiss and the very Ushers come likewise to wish happy Success to the Audience that has been obtain’d, merely for what they can get.

As soon as the Audiences are over, the Empress goes into a Room call’d, The Looking-Glass Room, because ’tis the only one in her Apartment where there are such Glasses: There her Majesty finds the Ladies, who kiss her Hand one after the Other, after which the Empress sits down to Play; none but the Ladies have the Honour to play with her, or have Permission to enter into that Room, excepting indeed the Emperor, the great Chamberlain, the great Steward, and the Princes who are related to the Empress. While they are at Play, the Ladies are seated round the Table, without observing any Precedence; nor is it even as ’tis in France, where the Honour of the Tabouret or Stool to sit on is paid only to the Duchesses; for at Vienna those who are call’d Duchesses by way of Railery, are treated as if they were such in Reality.

There’s another Custom at Vienna, very different from the Practice at other Courts of Europe: Here are no Days fix’d for Drawing-Rooms or Circles, so that the Ladies, when they think proper, send to the Lady of Honour in waiting, to know of her at what time they may pay their Court to the Empress; and then they repair to the Palace at the Time appointed.

Towards Supper-time the Emperor goes to see the Empress; when the Company gives over Play, and the Empress rises, and admits those Ladies that are not to stay at Supper to kiss her Hand; after which their Majesties seat themselves at Table, which is serv’d much after the same manner as at Dinner: Their Majesties always sup in the Empress’s Apartment, where Two Wax Candles are plac’d upon the Table, which are chang’d Three or Four Times by one of the Maids of Honour: When she takes off a Candle, to give it to the Treasurer to snuff it, she makes a profound Curt’sy, and makes another when she replaces it on the Table. On the Gala or Festival Days, there is Music during the Repast. After the Bason has been presented to their Majesties to wash their Hands in, the Governess or Mother of the Maids presents the Napkin to the Emperor; and a Maid of Honour, who is at the same time Lady of the Golden Key, presents it to the Empress. When the Archduchesses sup with their Majesties, the same Bason is presented to them that the Emperor has wash’d in, and a Maid of Honour presents them with the Napkin; and when the Emperor is risen from the Table, the Two first Archduchesses give the Emperor his Hat, and the Empress her Fan and Gloves; but, in the Absence of the Archduchesses, this is done by a Lady of Honour and a Maid of Honour, who must also be a Lady of the Golden Key: After this, the Ladies who waited at Supper kiss the Empress’s Hand, as her Majesty goes out of the Room, into the Chamber of Looking-Glasses. As soon as their Majesties are in this Chamber every body retires, to go to the Assembly, which, when I was at Vienna, was held at the House of Madame de Rabutin, whither came all the Beau Monde. Prince Eugene of Savoy was there too every Night, where he play’d constantly at Picquet with the Countess de Badiani and some other Ladies. About 11 o’Clock the Company retir’d to the Places where they had appointed to sup, tho’ Supper is a Meal they seldom indulge themselves with, all the grand Entertainments being made at Dinners, and those extremely late.