MEMOIRS (continued 2)

The Empresses Dowagers are serv’d at Table with the same Ceremonies as the Empress Regent, and they commonly eat alone, with only the Archduchesses their Daughters. The Empress Mother always ate in private, but on Sundays and Days of Festival or Gala, the Empress Dowager din’d in public.

I had the Honour to acquaint you before, when I was mentioning the Empresses Dowagers, that they never quit their Mourning; but this must be only understood of their Persons, for their Officers and other Domestics are clad in Colours: Yet, as to their Maids of Honour, let the Day of Gala be never so grand, the Bodies of their Gowns must be a black Ground, embroider’d with Gold and Silver, but their Petticoats may be of what Colour they please. Those Princesses are never at any Play or Ball: As for the Archduchesses, it being the Custom at Vienna for Sisters to dress alike, they must be dress’d all in their Hair upon the Days of Ceremony and Gala, as well as their Maids of Honour: They generally wear the Court Dresses; but on the Days of grand Ceremony they wear Robes, much like Children’s Vests, and very wide Petticoats with great Trains.

Upon the Days of Gala there are commonly Operas and Comedies: Their Imperial Majesties sit in the Pit, the Emperor in the chief Place, and the Empress on his Left, and the Archduchesses are in the same Row. All those of the Imperial Family have Arm-Chairs of the same Size and Height, with a Stand behind, upon which is a Wax Candle. Their Operas are magnificent, as to the Decorations and Habits, and good Judges have assur’d me, that their Music is excellent; but for my own Part I think them as sad as most of the Italian Operas, because neither of ’em are accompany’d with Dances, or any agreeable Entertainment.

I think, Madame, that I have related within a Trifle every Thing that is remarkable at Vienna, whether at Court or in the City: I shall now give you a short Account of the Persons who compos’d that august Court at the Time that I stay’d there.

Charles VI. was then upon the Imperial Throne, who is the second Son of the Emperor Leopold: After the Death of Charles II. King of Spain, he was own’d King of that Monarchy by all the Princes of the Grand Alliance, and he then took the Name of Charles III. He went to his Kingdom, and shew’d the Spanish Nation, that he was worthy of being their Sovereign. The Death of the Emperor Joseph, his Eldest Brother, oblig’d him to return to Germany, and when he was at Genoa he heard, that he was chose Emperor. I have already had the Honour to give you an Account of his Coronation. The Reign of this Monarch has been signaliz’d by happy Events; the famous Peace concluded with France, restor’d that Tranquillity to the Empire which it had been for a long time depriv’d of, and that which was concluded some Years after with the Turks, secur’d the Happiness of Hungary, and all the hereditary Dominions.

The Name of the Empress is Elizabeth Christina of Wolfembuttle Blanckenberg: She is a Princess, who, besides all the Qualities of the Mind, has the most advantagious Aspect: She is the finest Personage at her Court, and ’tis easy to see by her majestic Carriage, that she was form’d by Nature to wear one of the chief Crowns in the World: She is very magnificent in her Apparel, and especially in Diamonds, of which she has to the Value of several Millions, and the Number is daily increasing by considerable Presents she receives from the Emperor. This Prince does Justice to the Merit of his august Spouse, who on her Part makes it her whole Care to give him Proofs of her Affection; ’tis impossible to find a more perfect Unity than that which is between their Imperial Majesties: There are Three Princesses by this Marriage; I had the Honour to see only the Two Eldest, for the Third was born some Years after my Journey to Vienna.

She that is first in Rank, next to the Empress and the Archduchesses her Daughters, was the Empress, Dowager of the Emperor Leopold, Eleonora Magdalena Theresa of Newbourg: She was the Mirrour of the whole Court for Piety; for she spent most of her Time in Prayers at the Altars, or else in bestowing Charities, which were always very great. The Greatness of her Birth seem’d to make her uneasy, and she was vex’d to see the Honours which her Rank and Merit had entail’d upon her; she dy’d in a very advanc’d Age: She had several Princes and Princesses by the Emperor Leopold, as 1. Joseph-Jacob, who dy’d Emperor at Vienna, the 17th of April 1711. 2. Charles, the present Emperor, and Three Archduchesses; the one marry’d to the King of Portugal; another, Governess of the Netherlands; and the Third, who resides at the Court of Vienna.

The Empress Dowager of the Emperor Joseph resides also at the Court of Vienna, and her Name is Wilhelmina-Amelia: She is the Daughter of the late Duke of Hanover, Uncle to the King of England. After the Death of her Father, who left no Male Issue, this Princess went and stay’d some time in France, and her Sister having marry’d the Prince of Modena, she accompany’d her into that Country, where she stay’d till her Marriage, which was concluded at Modena with the Emperor Joseph, then King of the Romans; for whom the Duke her Brother-in-Law marry’d her as Proxy: She went afterwards to Vienna, where she was the Admiration of the whole Court, not only for the Lustre of her Person, but for the other Qualities with which Nature has endow’d her: She took Care to cultivate her Mind with much Reading, and especially by the Study of the Languages, to which she gave great Application with Success, and she understands French and Italian as well as her native Language. This Princess had several Children by the Emperor her Husband, of whom there are but Two Princesses living; the one call’d Maria-Josepha, marry’d to the Electoral Prince of Saxony, now King of Poland; and the other call’d Maria-Amelia, marry’d to the Electoral Prince, now the Elector, of Bavaria.

These, Madame, were the Persons of whom the Imperial Family then consisted: I had the Honour in a few Days after my Arrival to kiss the Hands of all this august Family, and was afterwards introduc’d to the Ministers; so that in a very little time I was known by the whole Court, and was so happy, as to acquire some Friends of Distinction, who gave me Marks of their good Will, without putting me to the Trouble of dancing Attendance, and desir’d Prince Eugene to give me an Employment: I had the Honour to wait on that Prince with particular Letters of Recommendation, that I brought from the Elector Palatine. The Prince, who receiv’d me very kindly, told me, that he could not insure me a Place, because the Colonels dispos’d of all the Employments in their Regiments; but that he would oblige me to the utmost of his Power; and indeed some time after, he was so good as to speak for me to the Count Max—— of S——, who gave me a Company in his Regiment, which was then in Sicily. I was mightily charm’d with this Present, and imagin’d that Fortune was at length weary of having so long thwarted me: Yet when I began to think coolly of the Matter, I had some Reflections which made me relapse into my former Melancholy: I was not in Cash, and I saw that I could not avoid being at a considerable Expence. Besides, I had contracted some dribbling Debts, which I wanted to clear before I left Vienna: My Equipage was so much out of Repair, that it would cost some Money to remount it; and finally, there was a Necessity for my going to Sicily; all which Things were not to be done with a trifling Expence: Upon this Occasion I receiv’d fresh Proofs of the Affection of my Friends, who all interested themselves for me effectually: Madamoseille de K——, Maid of Honour to the Empress Dowager, procur’d me a Gratuity from her Imperial Majesty; and the Countess of W——, at whose House I was every Day, advanc’d me a Thousand Ducats, saying, That I should pay her when I was able, or rather, when I was preferr’d to be a Lieutenant-General. She accompany’d her Generosity too with some Advice, that was truly wise and christian, and seem’d to come rather from the Lips of a Mother than a Friend. This Lady was heartily glad that I had chang’d my Religion, and was the more willing to assist me in making an End of my Affairs, for Fear that I should be overcome by the Temptation of turning Protestant again, for the Sake of getting Employment in my own Country.

You see, Madame, by what I have just had the Honour to mention to you, that I was now in a Condition to quit Vienna with Credit, and indeed my Stay there was no longer than to be a Spectator of Two great Solemnities, of which I am next to give you a Description: The first was the Entry of a Turkish Ambassador, and the second the Marriage of the Archduchess Maria-Josepha with the Electoral Prince of Saxony; upon both which Occasions the Imperial Court made the fullest Display of its Magnificence.

As to the Entry of the Ambassador, I may venture to say, it was only magnificent on the Part of the Imperial Court, for in Truth the Mahometan’s whole Train and Equipage were very inconsiderable. This Ambassador’s Name was Ibrahim Basha; he had 600 Men in his Retinue, but they were all very shabbily rigg’d. Till the Day of his Entry he stay’d in a Camp, which he had caus’d to be form’d Two Leagues from Vienna; I went thither with some Friends to see him: He receiv’d us with very great Civility, and made us a Present of Coffee and Sweetmeats. During this Collation I took a minute View of the Inside of his Tent, which was really stately, and the largest that I ever saw: On the Ground there was a noble Carpet spread, and over that a Sort of Foot-cloth of Crimson Sattin, embroider’d with Gold, on which sate the Ambassador, with rich Cushions about him of the same: On this same Foot-cloth, at the Ambassador’s Right Hand sate the Secretary of the Embassy: Round the Ambassador there was about a Score of Turks tolerably well dress’d, and among them Three or Four clever likely young Fellows; in particular I observ’d a Moor there, that was the handsomest Man I ever saw: His Dress was richer than the Garb of the other Turks, and, as I was told, he was the Ambassador’s special Favourite. After we had talk’d awhile with him, and were taking our Leave of him, he was so civil as to offer to shew us his Camp, which we with Pleasure accepted, and set out accordingly with a Person that the Ambassador gave us for our Guide.

This Camp took up more Space of Ground than would have serv’d for 2000 Men. The Tents were a great way from one another, and plac’d without any Order. Their Horses, Oxen and Camels were all stow’d higledy pigledy. But the Ambassador’s particular Equipage was in a Sort of Park, inclos’d by Toils like those that are us’d in Hunting: Every thing was to the last Degree slovenly, the inferior Domestics especially were the most disagreeable Gentry I ever saw; they had not Cloaths to their Backs, but what were in Rags and Tatters; and the chief Domestics were but little better rigg’d; several of them however were mighty civil to us, and desirous to regale us in their Tents.

Some Days after this our Visit, the Ambassador made his Entry with great Ceremony; the Marshal of the Court went and met him Half a League out of Vienna, at the Head of the Magistrates of the City, those made free by the Court, all the Trading Companies and Gentlemen, all well mounted and richly dress’d: The Ambassador was dragg’d along by a Pair of wretched Horses in one of his own Coaches, which was a little low Chariot, made almost like the cover’d Waggons of Holland, except that instead of Wax Cloth and Leather, it was cover’d with a red Cloth. When the Ambassador and the Marshal of the Court came near to one another, they both alighted, and after mutual Compliments mounted their Horses: There were carry’d before the Ambassador Three Horse-Tails and the Standard of Mahomet, which is a great Pair of Colours of green Taffeta, all sprinkled with Crescents of Gold: He who carry’d it was on Horseback, and that the End of the Colours might not trail upon the Ground, a Man that was on Foot held up the Corners of it. The Ambassador was preceded by all his Equipage, in which there was Half a Dozen of Waggons, cover’d with ragged Tilts, and drawn each by Four scrubbed Horses, that were led by Carters, whose Cloaths were in a very bad Pickle. After this Equipage came the Ambassador’s Officers, and then twelve Horses, of which the Sultan made a Present to the Emperor. Behind the Ambassador there march’d a Company of Spahis, that carry’d Pikes, with small Standards at the End of various Colours. These were follow’d by a Company of Janizaries, who, tho’ but meanly clad, made a very warlike Appearance, their Arms and Legs being both naked: The March was closed by a Regiment of Hussars.

This Train pass’d before the Palace call’d la Favorita, in View of the Emperor and Empress, and then went thro’ the City, passing the Bridge over the Danube, into the Suburb of Leopoldstat, where a House was prepar’d for him, according to antient Custom, which is, that no Turkish Ambassador must ever lodge in the City of Vienna.

The Ambassador seem’d to be very scrupulous in his Observation of the Ceremonial: He was loth to consent, that the Janizaries should carry their Muskets on their Shoulders, when they pass’d before the Emperor at his Palace la Favorita; and pleaded in Excuse, that the Janizaries did not march so even in Presence of the Sultan. He stood also upon his Punctilio in some other Trifles, to which however he was oblig’d to submit, or he was threaten’d that he should not make his Entry. The Ambassador on his Part to shew his Resentment, caus’d only Two Horse-Tails to be carry’d erect, and the Third downwards; but seeing that no body car’d for his being out of Humour, he soon came to himself again, and then was treated with Civility. He seem’d to be very fond of good Order, and caus’d some of his Domestics, who had committed certain Enormities, to be severely punish’d.

While the Ambassador stay’d at Leopoldstat, Vienna swarm’d with Turks, most of whom having never been out of their own Country, star’d with so much Surprise at every thing they saw, that it afforded daily Diversion to the Public. One Day I observ’d a Turk entring St. Stephen’s Church at the Time when there was no Service, nor so much as a Soul in the Church. I was so curious as to follow him at a Distance, and to observe all his Motions, which made me very merry: The Place at which he discover’d the greatest Astonishment was the Choir, the Form of the Clergy’s Stalls there, the Construction of the High Altar; in a Word, every thing was to him a perfect Novelty: But the Thing which seem’d to puzzle him most of all was, a noble Lamp burning in the midst of the Choir: He turn’d round and round it again, and view’d it on every Side for a long while, but seem’d as much confounded as at first, wondring to be sure how they did to kindle it. Mean time, after a little Pause, he observ’d a String underneath it, which he took into his Head to pull, and finding that all came towards him, he brought the Lamp down to the Ground. I observ’d that he was mightily pleas’d that he had found out the Meaning of the Difficulty which had so much perplex’d him; and when the Fire was so near him, he pull’d a long Pipe out of his Pocket with so much Gravity, that I could not help smiling; and after he had lighted it at the Lamp, he hoisted it to the Place it was in before, and then went out.

Not many Days after the Entry of the Turkish Ambassador was the Ceremony of the Marriage of the Archduchess Maria-Josepha to the Electoral Prince of Saxony. The Marriage had been projected a long time, and ’tis even said, that the Emperor Joseph had promis’d the King of Poland in Writing to give his Eldest Daughter to the Electoral Prince, on Condition that he would turn to the Catholic Religion. Meantime, while this Match hung in Suspence, the Electoral Prince of Bavaria enter’d the List, which very much embarras’d the Court of Vienna, who did not know for which Match to determine. The Person employ’d in this Negotiation by the Saxon Court was the Count de Wackerbarth. Soon after him the Electoral Prince in Person came to the Court of Vienna, and when he was oblig’d to return, he left the Count de Lagnasco there to take Care of his Interest; who at length obtain’d the Emperor’s Consent, and the Count de F—— came with the Character of Ambassador to demand the Princess of the Emperor, which was done with very great Solemnity. As I was curious to know the Ceremonies usual upon such Occasions, I went to the Count de F——, on the Day that he was to go on the Emperor for his Audience. Who should I see arrive but the Count D’Oropesa, a Grandee of Spain, Knight of the Golden Fleece, and one of the Emperor’s Chamberlains, in a Coach drawn by Six Horses, follow’d by a second Coach and Six, with the Emperor’s Arms and Liveries: His Imperial Majesty’s Footmen and the Count’s Lackeys walk’d on each Side of the first Coach. The Count de F—— receiv’d the Count D’Oropesa as he alighted out of his Coach, and conducted him into a Room, where Two Chairs of State were plac’d under a Canopy of Crimson Velvet, inrich’d with Embroidery and Gold Fringe; and over the Chairs was plac’d the Picture of the King of Poland. The Two Counts seated themselves in the Chairs of State, the Ambassador giving the Right Hand to the Count. They were both cover’d, talk’d for about a Quarter of an Hour, and then went out. The Ambassador stepp’d first into the Emperor’s Coach, and then the Count D’Oropesa, the former riding forwards, and the latter backwards over-against him. Four of the principal Saxon Gentlemen in the Ambassador’s Retinue went into the second Coach. Then the March began, when one of the Coaches of the Court led the Way, follow’d by one of the Ambassador’s Officers, at the Head of Twenty-four of his Excellency’s Lackeys; the Coach wherein the Two Counts rode follow’d next; the Emperor’s Footmen and the Count D’Oropesa’s Lackeys walking on each Side: Then came Eight of the Ambassador’s Pages, Four of whom were in the German, and Four in the Polish Dress; their Coats were of blue Velvet lac’d with Gold: Four Pages of the Back-stairs clad in blue Cloth lac’d with Gold follow’d the other Pages, and Three of the Ambassador’s Coaches with Six Horses each clos’d the March: In this Order did the Train arrive at the Palace; the Ambassador’s first Coach enter’d alone into the Inner Court, the Two others stay’d in the Outer Court. The Ambassador found the Emperor under a Canopy, and in the Name of the King his Master demanded the Archduchess of him in Marriage for the Electoral Prince: The Emperor made him Answer, that he was very willing, on condition that the Empress, Mother to the Archduchess, and the Archduchess herself gave their Consent. After this Audience the Ambassador was conducted to the Empress Regent, and to the Empress Mother, of whom he made the same Demand, almost in the same Terms. The Princesses answer’d, That if the Emperor was willing, and the Empress Amelia and the Archduchess consented to it, they should see the Marriage concluded with Pleasure: Then the Ambassador was conducted to an Audience of the Empress Amelia, of whom he made the same Demand, telling her too of the Answer he had receiv’d from the Emperor and the Empresses. This Empress made Answer, That the Emperor’s Will was always Her’s, that the Electoral Prince was a Match that she lik’d, and that she hop’d the Archduchess her Daughter would not be against it; and that she would go that Instant, and let her know what he came about: At the same time she turn’d to the Countess of Caraffa, her Lady of Honour, and bad her send for the Archduchess: This Princess, being in an adjacent Room, came that Moment, dress’d most richly: And the Empress told her what the Ambassador had just declar’d to her on the Part of the King of Poland, relating to her Marriage with his Son the Electoral Prince: She added, that the Emperor, the Empresses and Herself had agreed to the Match; that nevertheless she was left absolutely to her own Disposal, and that the Emperor did not mean to constrain her: The Archduchess made Answer, That she had no Objection to the Marriage, and that she obey’d their Imperial Majesties Orders with Respect. After this Declaration the Ambassador advanc’d, and addressing himself to the Archduchess, presented her with the Electoral Prince’s Picture adorn’d with Diamonds, which this Princess accepted, and without looking on it gave it to the Empress her Mother: The Empress, after having diligently view’d it, went to fasten it to the Body of the Archduchess’s Gown, but the Ambassador desir’d her Imperial Majesty to grant him that Honour; and after this Ceremony he return’d to his Palace as he came.

The Emperor, the Empress Regent and the Empress Mother went to the Apartment of the Empress Dowager, where, after mutual Compliments of Congratulation, their Majesties din’d together. In the Evening the Emperor and the Empresses went to pay a Visit to the Archduchess, that was to be marry’d, where the whole Court was present, and there was great Play, after which their Imperial Majesties and the Archduchess went and supp’d with the Empress Amelia.

Some Days after this, the Ambassador of Poland went again in Ceremony, but with his own Coaches, to the Palace la Favorita, where, in the Presence of all the Imperial Family, all the Ministers and Privy Counsellors, and the Knights of the Golden Fleece, he solemnly renounc’d the Right of Succession in the Name of the King his Master, and of the Electoral Prince of Saxony, in case it pleas’d God that the Emperor should dye without Male Issue. The Count de Sinzendorf, Chancellor of the Court, read the Act of Renunciation to all present, after which the Emperor demanded the Consent of the Archduchess, and the Princess giving her said Consent, the Emperor order’d an Oath thereupon to be administer’d to her, which she took accordingly before the Archbishop of Valencia. This Prelate being dress’d in his Pontificalibus before an Altar that had been erected in the Chamber, gave the Book of the Gospels to the Princess, who laying her Hands thereon, solemnly renounc’d the Rights of Succession. The Ambassador swore the same Thing in the Name of the King his Master, and the Electoral Prince of Saxony.

In a few Days after this was done, the Electoral Prince set out from Dresden, and came to a House made ready for him Two Leagues from Vienna. Having sent Notice of his Arrival to the Emperor, the Empresses and the Archduchess, the Emperor dispatch’d the Count de Molard the chief Steward of his Kitchen to him, as the Empresses and the Archduchesses did the Gentlemen of their Housholds, to compliment him thereupon: Next Day the Prince came incognito to the Convent of Nuns founded by the Empress Amelia, who also repair’d thither with the Two Archduchesses her Daughters. After an Interview of about Half an Hour, the Archduchess, that was to be marry’d, and the Electoral Prince of Saxony, went to the Church, and there confess’d; which done, the Prince return’d to his House, which, as I have had the Honour to observe to you, was Two Leagues from Vienna. He came again from thence next Day at Six in the Evening, and alighted at the Palace la Favorita, where being conducted into the great Chamberlain’s Apartment, he there chang’d his Cloaths, and was then introduc’d by the great Chamberlain to the Emperor, and his Imperial Majesty led him to the Empress’s Apartment, where were the Two Empress Dowagers and all the Archduchesses. The Emperor presented the Prince to them, and then they went to the Chapel in the following Order: The March was begun by all the Lords and Ladies of the Court; then came the Electoral Prince, with one of his Gentlemen, bearing a Wax Candlestick before him. The Emperor immediately follow’d the Prince, and then came the Three Empresses and the Archduchess, who was supported by the Two Empress Dowagers, the Empress Regent walking foremost, as she always did where-ever they went: The latter had on a Straw-colour’d Gown of Silver Tissue, adorn’d with Diamonds, and her Head Dress was adorn’d all over with Pearls like Pears. The Archduchess, whom I shall hereafter call the Electoral Princess, was also very richly dress’d; she wore a Fardingale, and her Gown was of Silver Brocade adorn’d with Diamonds: Next to the Princess the Three Archduchesses walk’d one after another, led each by their Equerries: These Princesses were follow’d by their Ladies, whose Dresses were of extraordinary Magnificence. As soon as the Electoral Prince and Princess were arriv’d in the Chapel, they received the nuptial Benediction from the Archbishop of Vienna. When the Ceremony was ended, the Imperial Family return’d to the Empress’s Closet, where they stay’d near Two Hours, and then repair’d to the Table, in the same Order as they observ’d when they went to the Church. The Hall of the Festival was set off in an extraordinary manner; the Table was plac’d upon a Floor rais’d Three Steps, which form’d an oblong Square. The Emperor and the Three Empresses sate at one End; the Electoral Princess sate on the Right Side of the Table, and at the Right Hand of the Empress Mother; the Electoral Prince, who had the second Place on the Right Hand of the Princess, had a Chair with only a Back to it, and was serv’d by one of his own Chamberlains; whereas the Princess and the Archduchesses sate in Arm-chairs, and were attended by the Emperor’s Chamberlains: Over-against the Princess, on the Left Hand of the Empress Amelia, sate the Archduchess her Daughter, and the Two Archduchesses the Emperor’s Sisters: The Court Ladies stood all round the Table till their Imperial Majesties had each drank once, and then they went to sit down at Tables serv’d in different Rooms, but return’d to the Desart: There was such a Number of Services, that the Supper held a long time, during which it was animated by excellent Music: In the same Room a Sort of Gallery was erected for the Turkish Ambassador, who saw all the Supper, and was attended by 30 of his Domestics. Care was taken to serve him with Sweetmeats and other Refreshments; and the Interpreter having ask’d him what he thought of the Magnificence of the Court of Vienna; he answer’d very gallantly, That noble as this Appearance was, there was nothing so grand in the whole Entertainment as the Person of the Empress.

After Supper was ended, the Empress Dowagers led the Princess into her own Apartment, and did not retire till she was in Bed: Next Day the Prince and Princess receiv’d the Compliments of the whole Court; they din’d afterwards with the Emperor and the Empresses, and at Night went and saw a new Opera, that was compos’d upon account of their Nuptials. The Emperor sate there as usual, with the Empress on his Left Hand, and the Archduchesses one after another in the same Row; the Electoral Princess preserv’d the Precedence due to her Birth; the Electoral Prince sate in the same Line as the Emperor, but after all the Archduchesses. The Opera was most magnificent, yet I thought it very tedious, for really ’twas too long; and besides, the Heat was intolerable: When the Opera was over, the Imperial Family supp’d together, as they did next Day at Dinner, which was the last Meal that the Prince and Princess made at Vienna; for as soon as they rose from Table, they took Leave of the Emperor and the Empresses, and set out for Dresden. There arose some Difficulty touching the Ceremonial that was to be observ’d as they pass’d thro’ Prague, to avoid which the Electoral Prince went before, and pass’d round the Town; but the Princess made her Entry there.

As soon as the Princess was gone, I began to think what a tedious Journey I should have before I could join my Regiment, which, as I have had the Honour to tell you, was in Sicily. As this Journey would naturally keep me a long time out of my own Country, I was willing first of all to settle my Affairs. For this Reason I desir’d a Month’s Furlough, and went to Dresden, from whence I sent for my Steward to come and meet me. I chose to stay at Dresden rather than Berlin, not only on account of the Solemnity of the Princess’s Entry, of which I was fond to be a Spectator, but because of the Enemies I had at the Court of Prussia, who would perhaps have done me some ill Office with the King. Having set out from Vienna a few Days after the Electoral Princess, I arrived at Dresden the same Day that her Highness made her Entry there. The Preparations made for receiving the Princess were of the utmost Magnificence, so that one could hardly imagine any thing more rich and gay. In order to give you some Idea of the Polish Magnificence, I will resume my Narrative from the Time of the Princess’s Departure from Prague.

As soon as the King had Notice that the Princess was gone from Prague, he sent the Count de Wackerbarth, Grand Master of the Artillery, at the Head of several Gentlemen, to meet her: The Count, who met the Princess on the Frontiers of Bohemia, complimented her in the King’s Name, and presented those Officers to her which his Majesty sent to attend her; for till then she had been waited on by the Officers of the Emperor, who had all along defray’d her Expences. Her Highness proceeded in her Journey to Pirna, the first Town in Saxony, where she was receiv’d by the Electoral Prince, and saluted by the Cannon of the Castle of Sonnenstein. Next Day, at 7 o’Clock in the Morning, the Prince and Princess went on board the Bucentaure, which was a Galley finely rigg’d, and call’d by that Name, because ’twas built after the Model of the Bucentaure of Venice: Their Galley was accompany’d by 100 Gondolas, painted and richly gilded, and by 12 Fregates, from 6 to 12 Guns each: All the Gondoliers and Sailors had Jackets of Sky-blue Sattin, and Breeches of yellow Sattin, lac’d with Silver. With this gallant Fleet, worthy to carry Thetis and Amphitrite, the Prince and Princess arriv’d within Half a League of Dresden.

The King went in Cavalcade to the Place where the Princess landed, some Hours before her Arrival, and was attended by the Nobility of his Court, all richly dres’d. The King especially was attir’d most sumptuously, in shorn Velvet of a purple Colour, adorn’d with Diamonds, to the Value of Two Millions of Crowns: He caus’d his Standard to be carry’d before him by a Polander, arm’d cap-a-pie. As soon as he came to the Landing-Place, he made a Review of the Train that was to compose the Entry, and retir’d afterwards to a magnificent Tent, lin’d with yellow Velvet, adorn’d with Silver Lace, to wait the Arrival of the Princess.

As soon as the Bucentaure came near enough to be seen from Land, she made a triple Discharge of all her Artillery, which were answer’d by the Cannon of Five Yatchts that were at Anchor on the Elbe, over-against the King’s Tent, and from the Batteries on Shore.

During this the King went to the Ships, over a Bridge erected for that Purpose, and cover’d with green Tapistry, sprinkled with Flowers. The Bucentaure dropping her Anchor, the Princess made ready to meet the King: When she came near him, she would fain have kiss’d his Hand, but the Monarch embrac’d her tenderly, and conducted her to his Tent, where he had some Conversation with the Prince and Princess, and then left them to return to Dresden.

The Prince and Princess sate down to Table, and a grand Breakfast was serv’d up; then the Boards of the Tent were struck down, that their Highnesses might see the Troops and Equipage march by that were to compose their Retinue at their Entry into Dresden: All this lasted about Two Hours; then came a stately Coach drawn by Eight Horses, being the Equipage that was for the Princess, who sate in it alone, while the Prince her Husband rode on Horseback, and they made their Entry with all the Pomp and Magnificence possible.

I own to you, Madame, that I was so charmed with the Disposition that was observ’d in this Procession, and especially with the Richness and Elegancy of the Habiliments, that I cannot resist the Temptation I feel to give you the Particulars, but must submit to it, tho’ I run the Risque perhaps of being thought too tedious.

The Cavalcade was open’d by the King’s Harbinger on Horseback, in the Saxon Livery, which was yellow Cloth, with broad Lace of blue Velvet, mix’d with Silver Lace.

Then came 2 Post Masters.

The Baron de Mordax, Post Master General, preceded by his Domestics on Foot.

40 Post Masters of Saxony clad in white with yellow Lace, the whole edg’d with Silver, as were also the Housings of their Horses, which were all over black.

100 Postilions dress’d in yellow with blue Lace, they had Caps like Dragoons, and the Housings of their Horses were embroider’d with the King’s Arms.

120 Led Horses richly caparison’d, belonging to the chief Lords of the Court.

A Kettle-Drummer and 6 Trumpets, dress’d in the antique Garb in black Cloth and yellow, with Gold Lace.

50 Halberdiers on Horseback, dress’d also in the antique manner, in the yellow, black and gold Colours, bearing Halberds: These represented the ancient Guards of the Electors of Saxony.

The Nobility of Lusatia dress’d in black Velvet, with Buttons and Button-holes of Gold.

24 Horses cover’d with great Housings of yellow Cloth, adorn’d with 2 Silver Lace Edgings, and the embroider’d Arms of the 24 Cities or Provinces of Saxony and Poland.

A Kettle-Drummer and 6 Trumpets, habited like the former.

The Nobility of Saxony dress’d in black Velvet Coats, with Buttons and Loops of Gold, and Waistcoats of Gold Brocade.

50 Halberdiers on Horseback, dress’d and arm’d like the former.

A Regiment of Dragoons, whose Regimental Cloaths were red, fac’d with grey, and edg’d with Silver Galoon; the Housings of the Horses were likewise red, and embroider’d with Silver; and the Dragoons were dress’d exactly like the Officers, only they had not Silver Lace.

120 Coaches and 6 Horses belonging to the Chamberlains and Ministers, each preceded by Lackeys and Running-Footmen, and surrounded by Heydukes, with 2 Pages in Front.

The King’s Huntsmen, consisting of 200 Persons, dress’d in green with Silver Lace.

A Regiment of Horse-Grenadiers, cloath’d in red, turn’d up with green: The Officers had Gold Lace, and their Caps were likewise embroider’d with Gold.

An Equerry of the Princess Royal, attended by 2 Grooms in the Saxon Livery on Horseback.

25 Hunting Horses, all English, belonging to the Electoral Prince: The Horses were cover’d with Housings of yellow Cloth, lac’d with Silver, and embroider’d with the Arms of Poland and Saxony.

Another of the Electoral Prince’s Equerries, at the Head of 36 Led Horses belonging to his Highness, which had Housings of yellow Velvet, adorn’d with Lace and Fringe of Silver; the Arms of Poland and Saxony being embroider’d upon each of the Saddle-cloths in 2 Escutcheons under a Royal Pavilion.

A Regiment of Cuirassiers, having their Cuirasses gilt, with white and straw-colour’d Plumes on their Helmets.

A Herald at Arms, wearing a Vest of yellow and blue Velvet, embroider’d with Silver, and a Cap of black Velvet, adorn’d with white and blue Plumes of Feathers.

A Kettle-Drummer and 12 Trumpeters in the Livery of Saxony.

3 of the King’s Equerries, follow’d by 36 English Horses, belonging to his Majesty, with Housings like to those of the Prince’s Hunting Horses.

The Governor and Sub-Governor of the Pages, in Cloaks of black Damask, adorn’d with black and Gold Lace.

24 of the King’s Pages, dress’d in the antique Mode, with Cloaks of blue and yellow Sattin, adorn’d with Lace, in the Saxon Livery; and with black Velvet Caps, adorn’d with white and blue Plumes.

40 Manag’d Horses, with Housings of yellow Velvet, embroider’d with Silver, led by Grooms in the Saxon Livery on Horseback.

An Equerry, follow’d by a Couple of Grooms in the Saxon Livery on Horseback.

24 Coaches of the King as Elector, with Sets of Horses of several Colours.

A Kettle-Drummer and 12 Trumpeters in the Saxon Livery.

A Litter of the King’s, plated all over with Silver, and adorn’d with yellow Velvet, embroider’d with Silver, carry’d by a Couple of Mules, richly harness’d: Their Bells were all of Silver, and their Pannels of yellow Velvet, embroider’d with Silver; they had great Plumes on their Heads of blue and white Feathers, and the Muleteers were dress’d in the Spanish Mode, but in the Saxon Livery.

After this Litter there follow’d 24 Mules, cover’d with yellow Cloth Housings, lac’d with Silver, and embroider’d with the Royal Arms; they had blue and white Plumes of Feathers, and their Bells and Paniers were of solid Silver.

A Regiment of Cuirassiers, whose Cuirasses were wash’d with Silver, and Helmets tufted with red and white Plumes.

A Herald at Arms, with a Vest of straw-colour’d Velvet, embroider’d with Gold, with the Arms of Poland.

2 Equerries in the Polish Habit.

A Kettle-Drummer and 12 of the King’s Trumpeters in the Polish Dress, in Scarlet with blue Velvet Lace, mix’d with Gold Lace.

36 Polish Led Horses, having red Velvet Housings, with the King’s Arms in Gold Embroidery.

A Governor of the Polish Pages on Horseback, follow’d by 24 Pages in the Polish Habit, of Scarlet with Vests of blue Sattin, the whole edg’d with an open Gold Lace.

3 of the King’s Equerries in the Polish Dress, Follow’d by 24 Turkish Horses richly caparison’d alamode de Turky, led by Grooms in the Polish Livery, but Turkish Habit, walking on Foot, and bearing each on their Left Arm a Tyger’s Skin, edg’d with scarlet Velvet, lac’d with Gold, and embroider’d with the King’s Arms.

24 open Calashes, drawn each by 6 Polish Horses, drove by Coachmen and Postilions in the Polish Habit.

A Litter of red Spanish Leather, lin’d with straw-colour’d Velvet, embroider’d with Gold, carry’d by 2 Mules, caparison’d after the Turkish Mode, with Pannels of scarlet Velvet, embroider’d with Gold, and drove by Muleteers in the Turkish Dress, but with the Polish Livery.

24 Mules caparison’d after the Turkish manner, with scarlet Velvet embroider’d with Gold.

A Regiment of Horse-Grenadiers dress’d in red, fac’d with blue, as were also the Officers, only with the Addition of a Silver Lace.

All the Colonels and Generals of the Troops dress’d uniform in Scarlet, with gilt Buttons.

The Veldt Marshal the Count de Flemming.

A Regiment of Dragoons in a red Livery fac’d with blue; only the Officers had their Facings and Vest embroider’d with Silver.

2 Harbingers of the Court.

All the Gentlemen of the Bedchamber, the Chamberlains and Ministers on Horseback, who were follow’d at some Distance by the Grand Marshal.

A Regiment of Dragoons, dress’d in red with yellow Facings, and the Coats of the Officers edg’d with a Gold Lace.

12 Running-Footmen with blue Damask Jackets lac’d with Silver, and Sashes of yellow Damask, embroider’d with Silver, and encompass’d with a Silver Fringe; these were follow’d by 24 Heydukes in the Saxon Livery.

The Hundred Swiss Guards, dress’d after the antique manner in the Saxon Liveries, walking in Two Files, with their Officers in the French Mode at their Head, in Sky-blue Coats, all of the same Pattern, with Silver Buttons and Button-holes, and Belts of Silver.

The Electoral Prince of Saxony was in the midst of the Hundred Swiss; he had a Coat on of Cloth of Silver, embroider’d with Gold and Diamonds, and was mounted on a fine Spanish Horse, the intire Equipage whereof was of Gold adorn’d with Diamonds. The Count de Lutzelbourg, great Steward of his Houshold, and the Baron de Galen, one of the Prince’s Chamberlains, immediately follow’d him.

The Prince was attended by 36 Footmen in the Saxon Livery, and by a Company of the King’s Life-Guards.

Then came at a little Distance a Moor on Horseback, in the Turkish Dress, all in Gold and Silver Brocade, bearing a Quiver of Arrows; he was follow’d by 24 Moors, dress’d also in the Turkish Habit, in scarlet Cloaths edg’d with blue and Gold Lace, and long Vests of white Sattin; and upon their Turbans they wore very fine Tufts of Feathers.

Immediately after came the Princess’s Coach between Two Files of the Hundred Swiss; ’twas adorn’d with crimson Velvet, cover’d all over with Gold Embroidery; the Roof was adorn’d with 8 great Plumes of white Feathers, and in the middle there were Tufts of Herons Feathers: This Equipage was drawn by 8 stately Neapolitan Horses, which had Harnesses of Crimson Velvet embroider’d with Gold, and Plumes of white Feathers upon their Heads, with noble Housings of Crimson Velvet embroider’d with Gold, and edg’d with Gold Fringe, which hung down to the Ground: The Coachman, Postilions and 8 Grooms led the Horses by Strings and Reins of Gold, and they had Coats of crimson Velvet, with Waistcoats fac’d with blue Velvet, and adorn’d with a broad Gold Lace.

Immediately after her Highness’s Coach the chief Steward of her Houshold follow’d on Horseback, attended by 24 Turks in Scarlet, with fine Tufts of Feathers on their Turbans.

A Company of the Life-Guards.

5 Coaches with the Saxon Livery, in which sat the Princess’s chief Lady and her Maids of Honour.

A Regiment of Horse, in a red Livery fac’d with blue, clos’d the March.

With this pompous Train the Princess arriv’d at the Palace: The Streets thro’ which her Highness pass’d were lin’d with 5000 Foot in new Cloaths: The Electoral Prince handed the Princess out of her Coach, and led her into the grand Apartment, where were the King and Queen and the whole Court: From the very Entrance of the Palace to the Guard-Room the Hundred Swiss were drawn up in Two Rows under Arms: The Guard-Room was lin’d with the Horse-Guards in scarlet Coats fac’d with blue, and blue Cloth Waistcoats embroider’d with Gold: The Life-Guards form’d the second Row, next to the Horse-Guards.

The King and Queen went to the third Antichamber to meet the Princess, when the King presented her to the Queen, whose Hand her Highness offer’d to kiss; but her Majesty embrac’d her, and taking her by the Hand, led her after the King into the Chamber of Audience: They stay’d there a few Moments, and then their Majesties and their Highnesses went into the Closet, from whence the Queen led her back in a little time to the Chamber of Audience, where she presented all the Ladies to her. Afterwards the Princess being fatigued retir’d to her Apartment, and the Court broke up till next Morning, when there was a Te Deum sung, during which there was a triple Discharge of the Cannon from the Ramparts, and of the small Arms from all the Infantry: After this Solemnity was over, the King and Queen din’d in State, at a Table forming an oblong Square, rais’d Three Steps from the Floor, and plac’d under a magnificent Canopy: The Prince and Princess din’d with their Majesties, the Prince at one End of the Table near the King, and the Princess at the other End by the Queen: They had Arm-Chairs, but not so high as were those of their Majesties.

At the same time there were 9 Tables spread for 30 Guests apiece, for the Ladies, the Courtiers, and the Foreigners: There was a fine Concert of Music during the Dinner, and at Night an Italian Opera.

The Court did not assemble next Day till the Evening, when there was a grand Ball, which the King open’d with the Queen: Their Majesties danc’d a Polish Dance to the Music of Kettle-Drums and Trumpets: When the Dance was over, the King led the Queen to a Place that was rais’d Three Steps above the Floor, under a rich Canopy. He then danc’d with the Princess, who danc’d afterwards with the Queen; and then the Queen danc’d with the Prince, who danc’d afterwards with the Princess: When all these Dances were ended, they began Minuets, and the Ball lasted till 2 o’Clock in the Morning, only it was thrice interrupted by Three Collations, which were serv’d up by 24 Polish Pages, as many Saxon Pages, and by the same Number of Moors and Turks, who had all the same Habits as they wore upon the Day of the Entry, which was a Sight as singular as it was magnificent.

The next Day after this Ball, which was the 5th of September, a Comedy was perform’d by French Comedians, who play’d Ariane, and l’Ete des Coquettes.

On the 6th there was a Battle of Beasts in Areas that were built for the Purpose.

On the 7th there was a grand Italian Opera, intitul’d Theophanes, in which the famous Musicians Senesino and Bercelli perform’d surprisingly. The Opera being longer than ordinary, the King, who sat in the Pit, supp’d there with the Queen and their Royal Highnesses: And at the same time there were little Tables serv’d in the Boxes for the Ladies.

There were also several very splendid Feasts on the Days following: On the 10th all these Rejoicings were concluded by a Pastoral, that was play’d in the Garden of the King’s Palace. There the King supp’d with the Queen and their Royal Highnesses, and 10 Tables were spread for 20 Guests at each, and serv’d all with Porcelain for the Court and Foreigners: After Supper there was a fine Firework play’d, representing the carrying off of the Golden Fleece: That was the last of the Entertainments I was present at, and I made ready to set out for Sicily, where my Employment required my Presence: Yet, before I leave Dresden, I must say a Word or two concerning the August Family, which resided there at that time.

The Royal Family consisted then of but Four Persons, the King, the Queen, the Electoral Prince and Princess.

The King is one of the best Princes that I ever knew; ’tis impossible to see him without being captivated by his graceful Mien; and his Civility wins the Hearts of all his Courtiers; he has all the Qualities fitting for a great King: His Father dying without Issue, he succeeded him in the Electorate of Saxony; and soon after, upon the Death of John Sobieski, the Poles chose him for their King: When he was no more than Elector, he commanded the Emperor’s Army, and gave authentic Proofs of his Wisdom and Valour.

The Queen is of the Family of Brandenbourgh Bareith, and was espous’d to the King, even before he was Elector: She is a Princess of a stately Port, and must have formerly been a Toast, on account of her Beauty, at the Time when she had more Colour in her Face, and less Flesh upon her Bones than she has now. She is very fond of Retirement, and bestows great Charities: She resides commonly at Torgau, or at Pretsch, and comes but very seldom to Dresden: She has a separate House from the King’s, which is very suitable to her Dignity; she has also a separate Chapel, the King having given her the old Chapel at Dresden and caus’d another to be built for Himself and the Catholics.

The Electoral Prince resembles the Queen very much: He is tall and very well set, and his Air plainly discovers him to be what he is: He delights very much in Hunting, and those Pleasures that require Exercise; which to be sure is very serviceable to him, for I thought him inclinable to grow fat: This Prince was very carefully educated by the Electoress his Grandmother, who was a Princess of Denmark: When he was able to support the Fatigues of Travelling the King sent him to Italy, and from thence to France, with a Retinue becoming the Son of a King; after which the Prince went to Vienna, and ’twas during the Stay he made at the Court that he had an Opportunity of observing the great Qualities of the Archduchess, now the Electoral Princess: You’ll judge by the Account I have had the Honour to give you of this Princess, that it were almost impossible but she must be very much belov’d at the Court of Saxony; and she soon got the good Wishes of the whole Nation, so that the very People who conceiv’d some Umbrage at the Prince’s Marriage, for Fear of their Religion, were quickly reconcil’d to it: For indeed what Violence was there room to apprehend from a Princess so highly distinguish’d for her Moderation and Good-nature?

These, Madame, were at the time the whole Royal Family; but now ’tis augmented by several Princes and Princesses, whom the Electoral Prince has had by the Princess his Spouse. Tho’ the Royal Family was not numerous when I was there, yet the Number and Magnificence of the Princes and Courtiers, who were then at Dresden, made it very splendid: I had the Honour to know most of them very well, and found them all alike, behaving affable to Foreigners, and agreeable to their Birth: I don’t undertake now to give you the Characters of those whom I had the Honour to be particularly acquainted with, being sensible that perhaps it would be a little too tedious: Nothing remains for me therefore but to give you some Account of the City of Dresden. [11] Dresden is one of the finest Towns in Germany for its Situation and its Structures; ’tis the Capital of Misnia in Upper Saxony. Charlemain was the first that caus’d it to be fortify’d; it has been for time out of Mind the ordinary Residence of the Dukes and Electors of Saxony, who have caus’d its Fortifications to be considerably augmented, and ’tis now a very strong Place: ’Tis divided by the River Elbe into Two Parts, call’d The New Town and The Old Town. In the latter stands the Prince’s Palace, which was formerly a very fine Building, but only a Part of it is remaining, the rest being consum’d by Fire. That which still exists contains very fine Apartments, which the King has accommodated to the modern Taste, and they are nobly furnished; but they belong only to the King and Queen; and the Prince and Princess live in a separate Palace, which communicates therewith by Galleries: This Palace was built by the Countess of Cosel, who liv’d in it when she was in high Favour. The Rooms are a little of the smallest, but perfectly well dispos’d, and they are adorn’d with fine Paintings, and very richly furnish’d: Near the King’s Palace there’s a very fine Garden, call’d Zuinger-Garten, which is semi-circled in the Shape of a Horse-shoe, with magnificent Buildings that form Arches, over which there runs an open Gallery, which unites Three large Pavilions: In the middlemost there’s a fine Grotto, on a Level with the Garden. The upper Story contains a very beautiful Saloon fac’d with Marble, with gilded Ornaments; the Ceiling is magnificent; the Windows instead of common Glass are embellished with very fine large Plate-Glass. The rest of the Building, which joins to this Garden, is of the same Magnificence, but yet perhaps a little too much incumber’d with carv’d Work.

Next to the Garden there is nothing finer to be seen than the King’s Stables and Riding-House. Over the Stables there are very fine large Rooms, in which is kept all the Furniture for the Horses: In this Part there is also a Number of stately Buildings, which render Old Dresden a very agreeable Place. The Streets are broad, most of them regular and well pav’d, and great Care is taken to keep up good Government in it.

This Quarter communicates with the new Town by a very beautiful Stone-Bridge: The first thing one meets with entring into New Dresden is a House that belongs to the King, and is call’d The Palace of Holland, because all the China Ware or Furniture, with which ’tis adorn’d, came from that Country: The Gardens of this House are very pleasant; and its Situation most charming by reason of the River Elbe, which runs just by it.

The Inhabitants of Dresden are Lutherans, as well as those of the rest of Saxony, and the Catholics have not so much as one Church in it; for the King being not willing to infringe the Laws of the Country, is content to have one Chapel there for himself and his Family. The Elector of Saxony bears the Title of Grand Marshal of the Empire, and is the Third in Rank among the Secular Electors.

Thus, Madame, have I given you what I saw most remarkable in the Electorate of Saxony: I own to you, I lik’d the Country very much, and the Civilities that I had the Honour to receive from the King, made me wish one while for a Place in his Service; but I made no Attempt for it, and very seriously bethought myself of my Journey to Sicily.

When I left Dresden, I took the Road to Munich, to which I made very great Haste, because I was so teiz’d with my old Ailment, for which La Peronie had me under Cure at Paris, that I did not care to delay, putting myself into the Hands of a Surgeon: The Person, who undertook me, was no less a Man than the Elector’s own Surgeon; who indeed gave me Ease for a few Days, but afterwards I was tormented worse than ever. However, I took the Opportunity of the easy Intervals I enjoy’d from the Surgeon’s Remedies to pay my Compliments to the Princes: I accompany’d them in Hunting and other Parties of Pleasure, as if I had been in perfect Health: The Count de Charolois, who was still at the Court of Bavaria, made an Agreement with the Princes of Bavaria, to ride Post to Saltzbourg, to see an Italian Opera, which the Archbishop gave there every Year to celebrate his Birth-Day: The Bavarian Princes set out first, and lodged in a paltry Cabaret in the Suburbs, because they had a Mind to be incog. The Count de Charolois set out from Munich at 8 o’Clock at Night, with only one Gentleman and myself: We rode all Night, and next Day at 5 in the Evening arriv’d at Saltzbourg: We alighted at the same Cabaret where the Bavarian Princes were, and went all together to the Opera: It was begun before we came, for which I was not a little sorry, because it was a Piece that was well worth seeing from the Beginning to the End of it: I assure you, Madame, that I never saw any thing so extraordinary: The Theatre, the Actors, the Performance were all to the utmost Degree ridiculous! The Opera Room was so low, that the Actors almost touch’d the Ceiling with their Heads: The Singing and Dancing were something comical: What most diverted me were the Interludes, which were executed by the Archbishop’s Pages. They consisted of Three Entries: The first was of Shepherds, who were known by their Dress; and they had not only Crooks in their Hands, but Sheep appear’d every now-and-then upon the Scene: The second Entry was of Huntsmen, who had all Hunting Horns; and while these danc’d, some, who mov’d the Machine, made the Skins of Hares stuff’d with Straw skip up and down the Stage: The third was of Fishermen, who carry’d Lines, to which were fasten’d Trouts; others appear’d with Nets full of live Fish, which made a very odd Shew, and was certainly the only one of the Kind: I must not forget to tell you, that, during the Performance, such Complaisance was shewn to all the Spectators, that they were presented with great Silver Goblets full of Wine or Beer to refresh them: The Princes diverted themselves very much with this Piece, and ’twas a long rime before they could get the Archbishop’s Opera out of their Heads: For my Part, I can scarce forbear Laughing to this Day, whenever I think on’t.

Notwithstanding all that the Princes could do to be incog. they were known, and the Archbishop, who was inform’d of their Arrival upon the very Day, immediately sent one of his Gentlemen to invite them to Supper, desiring at the same time to be excus’d for not waiting on them in Person, which he assur’d them he should have done, if he had not been made acquainted, that they were willing to be incog. The Bavarian Princes were ready enough to accept of the Archbishop’s Supper; and for my own Part, I had so little Hopes of finding any thing that was good in that pitiful Cabaret where we were, that I should have been glad with all my Heart to have been at the Archbishop’s Table. But the Count de Charolois would by no means accept of the Invitation, and out of Complaisance to him, the Bavarian Princes refus’d it likewise; however, they paid the Archbishop a Visit, and the Count de Charolois went along with them by the Name of the Count de Dammartin; I had also the Honour to accompany them: The Archbishop receiv’d the Princes without any Ceremony, according to their Desire, and they stood all the time of the Visit, which was very short. The Princes return’d to the Inn, where we had a Supper, serv’d up exactly in the Gout of our Opera. Mean time, we had not eaten any thing for 24 Hours; and to refresh us, the first Dish that was brought in was Lobsters and a Sallad, and the next a Leveret, which was not dress’d enough, and therefore we sent it to the Kitchen to be turn’d into a Ragou; but ’tis probable, that our Cook had not Experience enough to make Ragous; for he only put our Leveret in a large Kettle of Water, and boil’d it to a Jelly; and in this Condition it was serv’d up: This insipid Dish was follow’d by a Couple of Ducks and Four Thrushes. Notwithstanding the Scantiness of this Repast, they did not rise from Table till late at Night, and then the Princes of Bavaria went to Bed, but as for the Count de Charolois, he would stay in the Place no longer than he had supp’d, and I had the Honour to go off with him. We return’d to Munich, but went by the way of Alten-Ottingen, in order to see the Treasure that is kept in the Vestry of the miraculous Chapel of the Virgin: This Treasure, which contain’d very fine Things, was inrich’d with Abundance of noble Presents, made by most of the Sovereigns in Europe. From thence we set out for Munich, where we arriv’d after a Ramble of Three Days and as many Nights, in which we could boast of having travell’d near 40 German Leagues, to see the most scoundrel Opera that could ever be imagin’d.

The Fatigue of this Journey made my Disorder much worse: The Surgeons at Munich even refus’d to take me in hand, and all my Friends advis’d me to make a Tour to Paris, where the most able Professors in Arts of all Sorts are more easy to be found. I was very loth to take their Advice, for ’twas high time for me to think of going to my Regiment, and I was afraid, that by a longer Delay I should suffer: At the same time I was so horribly plagued by my Distemper, that I resolv’d to go to Paris. But, before I set out, I wrote to the Count de S——, to tell him the Condition I was in, tho’ I assur’d him that I would stay no longer at Paris than was necessary for my Cure. Whether my Declaration was relish’d or not I can’t tell; all that I know for certain is, that I receiv’d no Answer. I was sorry to leave Munich, and no doubt, Madame, you are surpriz’d to find me going for Paris, as it were in spite of my Will, and I assure you, that I made Reflections upon my Indifference for this City, in which I always found so many things to charm me, tho’ I was fully sensible, that the Miscarriage I had in all my Undertakings was the thing that made me heartily weary of staying in it.

This therefore was the first time that I may say I set out for Paris with Regret: I went thither by the way of Strasbourg, and when I arriv’d I put myself again into the Hands of la Peronie, who in less than a Month’s Time made me sound! During that Space I notify’d my Arrival to some particular Friends, who kept me Company till I was perfectly cur’d. They told me surprizing News, of which I had already been informed by several Letters; but ’twas all so improbable, I never could believe it to be true. Millions was the Word in every body’s Mouth, and he that was but a Lackey one Day, was the next a Lord. ’Twas sufficient only to be seen in the famous Street of Quinquempoix, and unless you were quite forsaken by your Guardian Angel, you were sure of going off of the Place with immense Wealth. I was advis’d to do as others did, and to try if Fortune was still resolv’d to frown upon me: A great many Persons were nam’d to me that had actually got Millions, who came first into the Street with almost nothing in their Pockets; that was my Case exactly: But the Hopes of good Luck made me resolve to try my Fortune, as soon as I was able to stir abroad: And thither I actually went, and put myself in the Rank with those who sacrific’d to Fortune: I had the best Luck in the World at first setting out, and without knowing how or which way, found myself possess’d in a little time of a considerable Sum, such that I am even asham’d to tell you how much it amounted to, since you would absolutely pronounce me a Madman, for not knowing when I had enough; but in short I began so well, that I thought it would be cowardly to stop, and therefore I push’d on; but was quickly sensible that I had committed a gross Blunder in not drawing back; for my Millions vanish’d almost in the same manner as they came, and without knowing why or wherefore, I found my Purse empty, and was forc’d, whether I would or no, to renounce that Sort of Negociation.

While the domestic Affairs of the Kingdom were in this Fluctuation, the Army of France press’d the Spaniards very hard. The Campaign in Navarre prov’d very successful. I have already had the Honour to acquaint you of the Taking of Fontarabia, which was follow’d soon after by the Conquest of St. Sebastian. The Germans on their Part made themselves Masters of almost all Sicily, so that the King of Spain seem’d almost reduced to a Necessity of demanding Peace, and that very soon. Cardinal Alberoni was not disturb’d at the Advantages of his Enemy, and had a very great Dependence on the Uneasiness of the People of Bretagne, where he had a Party actually form’d, that was to declare openly against Spain, upon the first Motion which that Crown should make towards the Coasts of that Province. The Cardinal caus’d the Duke of Ormond to sail to that Province, but ’twas to no Purpose; for the Regent had been appriz’d of all these Schemes, and so well concerted his Measures, that ’twas impossible for the Duke of Ormond to undertake any thing on that Side. Nevertheless, some Malecontent Bretons, who were Refugees in Spain, assur’d me, that if the Duke had arriv’d sooner, the Blow would not have fail’d, the whole Province would have revolted, and caus’d the States General to assemble, and declare the King of Spain Regent. For my Part, who knew all the Leaders of this Party full well, I did not think the Success of this Affair so very sure. Those Gentlemen were indeed Persons of a great deal of Sense, but of stronger Passions; and to say all in a few Words, they play’d at high Game, to think of surprizing the Regent! His Wisdom prevented all the Calamities which the Kingdom was threaten’d with: He sent a Sovereign Court to Bretagne, of which M. de Chateauneuf was President, and he supported its Authority by a Body of Troops under the Command of the Marshal de Montesquiou. They began to make a Search after the Authors of the Rebellion, and ’twas expected that a great deal of Blood would be spilt, yet there were only a few Gentlemen, who paid for all with the Loss of their Heads. They say, that among those Gentlemen One might have escap’d, if he had thought fit; but when he was going on board, and saw the Waves very swelling, he remember’d that some body had told him, he should perish par la Mer, i. e. by Sea, and the Fear of Drowning made him turn back, so that he was apprehended, and had his Head cut off by a Hangman, whose Name was la Mer. A great Matter of Triumph this was to the Fortune-tellers!

Besides these, Warrants were issued against several other Gentlemen, but they being not afraid of the Sea, made no Scruple to expose themselves to it: Some fled to Spain, and some to Hanover, where the King of England granted them an Asylum, without violating the Alliance made with France, which imported, that the Two Kings should give no Shelter in their Kingdoms to the revolted Subjects of either; for the Duchy of Hanover being an Electorate, was not included in this Treaty.

’Twas well for a great many People of Bretagne, that Warrants were issued out against them; for most of them had but little to leave behind, and they were receiv’d in Spain as Persons that had sacrific’d their All for that Crown. Most of these were made Colonels by the Cardinal, tho’ he knew not whether they had ever been in the Service, while others, that had really abandoned considerable Estates, were so unfortunate as to have the least Reward.

These were the Transactions at Paris during the little time I stay’d there; for as soon as I found myself able to walk, I set out in good earnest for Sicily; but not being quite well enough to ride Post, I made but short Days journeys. I lay the first Night at Melun, and din’d the next Day at Moret, which is a Village near Fontainebleau, with a Convent, where they say, that the Negro Princess, of whom the Queen Mary Theresa was deliver’d, is a Nun.

From Moret I went to Sens, and from thence to Auxerre, which City I found in an Uproar, on account of a very tragical Adventure: A Baker having been very familiar for some time with the Wife of a Pastry-cook, was reproach’d for it by his own Wife, who even threaten’d she would make him smart for it; but the Baker, not at all terrify’d by her Menaces, proceeded in his Amour as usual; while his Wife being desperate, and raging with Jealousy to find herself depriv’d of conjugal Duty, was resolv’d her Rival should not have the Pleasure of his Company any longer; and therefore, as he was one Night in Bed with her, she took a Razor, and shav’d him so close, that it was no more in his Power to give her any Jealousy. The poor Man was in a very bad way when I happen’d to be at Auxerre. I had this Story from my Landlady, where I quarter’d, who told it me not without great Lamentation.

From Auxerre I went to Dijon[12], the Capital of Burgundy, and the Seat of the Parliament and of the Governor of the Province. In this City the States of Burgundy hold their Assemblies, and the Duke of Burgundy, who is Governor of the Province, commonly presides there in the King’s Name. The Parliament of the Province was establish’d here by Philip Duke of Burgundy, and confirm’d by Lewis XI. Here is also a Chamber of Accompts, a Mint, and a Presidial Court.

’Tis a very fine Country from Dijon to Chalons[13], all along by those excellent Vineyards which produce the choicest Wines of Burgundy. At Chalons I found a Conveniency to go to Lyons: The Road is the finest that can be travell’d, for we go all the Way by the River Saone, which forms the most charming Vista, and with the greatest Variety of Prospects that can be imagin’d. I pass’d by Trevoux, the Capital of the Principality of Dombes, which belongs to the Duke of Maine, to whom it was given as a Legacy by the last Will and Testament of the late Madamoseille of France, Daughter to the late Gaston Duke of Orleans.

From Trevoux ’tis but a few Days Journey to Lyons: Before we come to this City, one sees upon the Right Hand of the Road that dismal Castle of Pierre-Encise, to which those Criminals are commonly sent, who are condemned to perpetual Imprisonment.

Lyons[14] is the Capital of the Lyonnois, on the Conflux of the Rhone the Saone. ’Tis one of the finest and most magnificent Cities in France: Its Situation is charming, its Squares superb, and its Buildings, both sacred and profane, very noble. St. John’s which is the Cathedral Church, is a magnificent Structure of Gothic Architecture, where, among other Remarkables, is that fine Clock, which is reckon’d a Master-piece. The Canons have the Title of Counts of Lyons, and are oblig’d to produce the same Proofs of their Qualification as the Knights of Malta.

The Town-House is one of the most magnificent Buildings of the kind, and I know of none but the Stadthouse at Amsterdam that exceeds it. The Square in which ’tis built is call’d la Place des Terreaux: ’Tis a very beautiful Quadrangular Structure; and there is to be seen the fine Abby of the Ladies of St. Peter, now in Possession of a Daughter of the Marshal de Villeroy.

The Square of Bellecour is the finest Part of all the City; ’tis adorn’d with an Equestrian Statue of Lewis XIV. erected upon a Pedestal of white Marble, at the Expence of the Marshal de Villeroy, Governor of Lyons and the Lyonnois, in Acknowledgment of that Monarch’s continued Favours to him and all his Family.

After one is out of the Square of Bellecour, we come to the magnificent Stone-Bridge, which unites the Two Quarters of the City that are separated by the Saone. As we go off this Bridge, we advance upon a stately Key, that runs along the River, and is call’d the Villeroy Key, because it was built by Order of the Marshal of that Name. The Family of Villeroy is mightily belov’d and respected throughout the Lyonnois, and while I was there, all the Dignities of this Province were fill’d by one Gentleman or other of that Name. The Marshal himself was the Governor, and the Reversion of his Post was secur’d to his Son the Duke de Villeroy, and to the Dukes of Rets and Alincourt his Grandsons: The latter of these is Lieutenant-General of the Province: The Archbishoprick was occupy’d by one of the Marshal’s Sons, as the Abby of the Nuns of St. Peter was by one of his Daughters.

The Commerce of Lyons is still very flourishing, tho’ it was much more so before the famous Scheme of the Bank Bills, which did great Detriment to its Manufactures: Yet for all that, there’s not a Town in France where there are such wealthy Merchants: Their Conversation too is very amiable, and they live for most Part like People of Rank; I don’t mean in Point of Magnificence, for which there needs nothing but Money, but by reason of their easy and polite Behaviour, which always denotes a good Education.

I embark’d on the Rhone at Lyons for Avignon: There are considerable Towns upon this River which yield noble Prospects: Such is the City of Vienne, the Capital of the Viennois, with the Title of an Archbishoprick: Here are stately Vestigies of the Magnificence of the Romans, who spar’d no Cost to render this a considerable Place: We are assur’d, that Pilate was banish’d hither, and they even shew a House, Half a League or more from the City, where ’tis said he liv’d. But I should be glad to know in the first Place, Whether ’tis really true that he ever came into this City? You may believe as much of it as you please.

From Vienne I proceeded to Valence and Pont St. Esprit: In this latter Town I saw that noble Bridge which is the Admiration of all Foreigners; ’tis one of the finest and most stately in Europe: It has 23 Arches, the Pillars of which are very large with Overtures, in the Nature of Doors, to give a freer Passage to the Rhone when its Waters swell. They say, that in these Pillars there are Vaults, where they us’d to put the Fanatics of the Cevennes: The Passage of this Bridge is defended by a Citadel.

From Pont St. Esprit ’tis but a little way to Avignon, which is a City of Provence that belongs to the Pope. Clement VI. purchas’d it of Joan Queen of Provence for a very moderate Sum; since which time it has ever been subject to the Holy See. The Popes made it the Place of their Residence for above 70 Years; but Gregory XI. re-establish’d the Holy See at Rome about the Year 1377. Several Factions arising afterwards among the Christian Princes on account of the Election of the Popes, some of the Anti-Popes liv’d here. The Cathedral, which is magnificent tho’ very ancient, is dedicated to our Lady of Dombes. Avignon is in general a very well built City, the Streets being broad, strait and lightsome. The adjacent Country is charming and very fruitful, and I thought there was nothing wanting in it but a greater Number of Inhabitants.

I took Post at Avignon, and went to Aix, which is the Capital of Provence, and an Archbishop’s See; there are also a Parliament and an University: This is without Dispute one of the finest Towns in the Kingdom: I was charm’d with the Beauty of the Course, which is the Rendezvous of People in the Summer Evenings: ’Tis in the middle of a fine spacious Street, the Houses whereof are truly magnificent, and several beautiful Rows of Trees adorn’d with Fountains make it a very pleasant Walk. The middle Row, which is separated from the rest by a Rail, is for the Foot Passengers. From one End of the Course there’s a Prospect of the Country, and the other is limited by the City. At the End next to the Country there’s a Fountain, and a Balustrade of white Marble Breast-high. There’s another Course without the City, which is bigger than the former, and every whit as beautiful. The Metropolitan Church of St. Saviour is remarkable for its Baptismal Font, which is a Piece of admirable Structure: ’Tis all of white Marble, supported by filetted Columns, that compass it in Form of a little Dome. This Church has a very high Tower, which is a Hexagon, and much esteem’d by good Judges.

The Palace where the Parliament assembles is a noble Building, in the Rooms whereof no Cost has been spar’d for Gilding, Painting and Carving. The great Hall is adorn’d with Hangings of blue Velvet, sprinkled with Fleurs de Lys of Gold: The King’s Throne with the upper and lower Seats are cover’d with the like Tapistry: The Persons that compose the Parliament of Aix are almost all Men of Quality, which contributes very much to make a Man’s Residence here agreeable: The Nobility in this Place live with Distinction. Besides the Parties made for Gaming, and the Walks, there are Concerts of Music upon certain Days of the Week, to which Foreigners are admitted Gratis, the Musicians being paid by a certain Number of People of Quality, who hire them for the whole Season.

After Five or Six Days Stay at Aix, I set out for Marseilles: This is an Episcopal City of Provence, which by being situate on the Mediterranean is one of the most considerable Cities in France for Commerce, and engrosses almost the whole Trade of the Levant. ’Tis divided into the upper and lower Towns: The former is the Old Marseilles, the Houses of which are very dark, and the Streets narrow and very irregular. In this Part stands the Cathedral of our Lady la Major.

The Lower Town is very fine, the Streets broad, most of ’em strait, and the Houses very magnificent, especially those by the Side of the Course, which is one of the finest in the World: ’Tis very much like that at Aix. This Part of Marseilles owes its Embellishment and Aggrandizement to Lewis XIV. who caus’d Works to be erected there worthy of so great a Prince. Marseilles has a noble Harbour, it being a large Bason, almost encompass’d with Houses, and defended by Two Castles, of which that on the Right Hand is very high, and commands a great way at Sea: That on the Left contains the Arsenal, which is one of the finest that I have seen, and every thing in it is so regularly dispos’d, that it forms a charming View.

The Harbour of Marseilles is the Station for the King’s Galleys, on board of which there’s a great Number of Slaves, who do almost all the hard Work; they load and unload the Ships: Some of ’em are allow’d to walk about the Town and to trade, but are obliged to pay something to the Man that accompanies them, and to lie aboard at Night. Others, who are charg’d with enormous Crimes, are fasten’d Two, Three and Four together to great Chains, which does not hinder them however from working for their Livelihood. The great Trade of Marseilles and the Wealth of its Inhabitants give this City an Air of Opulence, which is seldom to be found elsewhere: There is hardly a Place where one meets with better Chear, and where ’tis easier to be accommodated with every thing that a Gentleman can desire to pass his Time agreeably. Comedies, Concerts, Gaming, Taking the Air, in short, Pleasures of all Sorts make this a most charming Place to live in, even for People that are ever so opposite to one another in Characters and Temper.

The Suburbs of Marseilles are magnificent: They contain above 20,000 little Houses, call’d by the Country-people Bastides, and all encompass’d with very fine Vineyards and Gardens, which render these Habitations very charming in the fine Weather. ’Twas to these Houses that most of the Inhabitants retir’d during the last Plague with which Provence was afflicted, and which held so long as to carry off a great Part of the Citizens. This Desolation would have been much greater, and would perhaps have penetrated into the Heart of France, had it not been for the great Care taken by the Regent, that no Correspondence should be kept with the People of Marseilles.

Provence in general is a fine Country, and a very pleasant Place to live in at all times, but especially in the Winter. At that time too the Sky is clearest, and there are then some Days, which naturally ought rather to be plac’d to the Account of Summer. I remember I was walking on the Harbour of Marseilles one Day in this Season at 2 or 3 o’Clock in the Afternoon, and that I was forc’d to withdraw, the Weather was so hot. Yet I observ’d that not many Days after a Wind arose, (that the People of the Country call Mistral) which was extremely cold, and the more disagreeable to me, because ’tis not easy to get warm in this Country, here being no Wood but some Roots or Branches of Olive-trees, which do not make a very good Fire. Besides, most of the Rooms, especially in the Inns, are without Chimneys, so that one is oblig’d to make Use of a Pan of Coals, which is very inconvenient, to such especially as are not us’d to this Method of warming themselves.

After having for a few Days saunter’d in and about Marseilles, I thought it proper to inquire what Ship was bound to Sicily; but with all my Inquiry, I could not find out any, and was under a Necessity of going either to Genoa or Leghorn. I was assur’d that ’twas but a little way, and that I should be there in a very few Days, so that I agreed for my Passage with a Merchant that was bound to Leghorn. The contrary Wind kept us a Fortnight in the Harbour, and then we sail’d; but were forc’d to put into La Cienta, a little Town and Port of Provence. There I stayed Three Days for a fair Wind, to proceed in my Voyage, and at last finding ’twas to no Purpose, I resolv’d to leave my Trunks and Servants aboard the Ship, and to go by Land.

The first Day I went and lay at Toulon a City of Provence, and one of the best Harbours in Europe. In this Harbour lie the King’s Ships, and here is the great Arsenal of the Admiralty of France, where Lewis XIV. caus’d Works to be made worthy of so great a Monarch. The Road of Toulon is as considerable as the Harbour, and Ships ride there perfectly safe. They say, ’tis large enough to contain all the Ships in the Mediterranean. The City of itself is but small, and were it not for the Sea-Officers, ’twould be a melancholy Place to live in. These Gentlemen have caused a House to be erected here, which serves for their Assemblies, it being composed of several Rooms very well adorn’d. Here are the Pictures of the Count de Tholouse great Admiral, the Marshals de Tesse and de Etrees, and several Generals and naval Officers; together with noble Sea-Charts. Here one is always sure to find Company enough, and that which is select. At Night they meet in these Rooms, where is all manner of Play: The Sea-Officers make the Entertainments, in which they acquit themselves with all possible Grace and Politeness; and a Foreigner is always so heartily welcome there, that they strive who shall treat him with most Civility.

You know, Madame, that the Allies attempted to make themselves Masters of Toulon, during the last War. The Duke of Savoy came first before the Place, but was soon oblig’d to raise the Siege, for Want of being supported by the English Fleet, which was kept back by contrary Winds. Others impute the Raising of this Siege to the Menaces of Charles XII. of Sweden, who was at that time in Saxony, to declare for France, if the Duke of Savoy’s Army stay’d any longer before Toulon. Be this as it will, the Duke’s Forces retir’d, after having lost some of their principal Officers, among others the brave Prince of Saxe-Gotha, Brother to the Reigning Duke, who was kill’d as he went to take a View of the Place.

From Toulon I went to Frejus, a Town upon the Sea; ’tis very ancient, and the Citizens pretend that most of its old Monuments were built by the Romans: Such are the Ruins of a Causey, that reach’d as far as Arles, near the Mouth of the Rhone, and the Remains of an ancient Circus, which seems to have been a very spacious one. ’Tis said that a great Aqueduct in the Neighbourhood brought as much Water to it from the Distance of 10 Leagues, as was sufficient to support a Naval Combat within the Circumference of this Circus. Going out of Frejus there’s a long Mole or Causey cut by several small Canals, over which there are Bridges, said to have been made by the Romans.

As I pursued my Journey, I pass’d near Antibes, a strong Place on the Sea-Shore, which was heretofore the See of a Bishop, till it was translated to Grasse in Upper Provence. From thence I cross’d the Var, which River separates France from the Dominions of the King of Sardinia; and the Fourth Day after my Departure I arriv’d at Nice.

Nice was formerly very well fortify’d, and its Castle especially was reckon’d impregnable; for it bravely held out against the Army of Francis I. and that of Barbarossa the Turk in 1543. But Lewis XIV. had better Success, for he made himself Master both of the City and of the Castle, which he caus’d to be intirely demolish’d; and having also caus’d the other Fortifications of the Town to be destroy’d, he restor’d it in this Condition to its Sovereign. At Nice we begin to see Orange-trees in such Abundance, that they grow in the open Fields like other common Trees, and they bear Fruit alike both in Summer and Winter.

As ’twas very fine Weather when I arriv’d at Nice, I was advis’d to go on board, in order to avoid the bad Roads in the Passage of the Mountains; I took the Advice, and went on board a small Vessel, that was navigated by only Two Men; but I soon repented of it, for in Half an Hour after we put off to Sea we had bad Weather, in which I had like to have been cast away, and ’twas not less than a Miracle that I arriv’d at Villa-Franca, a small Sea-Port in the County of Nice.

This Town is remarkable for nothing but its Harbour, which contains Six of the King of Sardinia’s Galleys: ’Twas here that this Prince embark’d with his Queen and his whole Court, when he went to take Possession of Sicily: And after their Majesties had been consecrated and crown’d at Palermo, they came and landed at Villa-Franca in their Return to Turin. The Night that I came to this Town there happen’d a terrible Storm, which abated indeed next Day, but the Sea was still in such a Foam, that I did not care to trust it. The Day following proving however as fair as one could desire, I immediately put to Sea, but fell into the same Danger as I had been expos’d to before. The Winds, or rather all the Devils in the Air, were let loose against me; I was, I confess to you, cruelly afraid, especially when I saw my Pilots change Countenance. Nevertheless, I put on the Air of a Man of Courage, told ’em the Danger was not so great as they apprehended, and that they need not be discourag’d. In short, I don’t remember every thing that I said to ’em, and perhaps too my Language was not so coherent as if I had been upon Terra Firma. Whatever it was, I arriv’d safe at Monaco, a little Town which belongs to a Prince of that Name. The Castle, which looks towards the Sea, is built in the Italian Taste, but is a very plain Building. There is a French Garison in the Town, which is a Detachment from the Garison of Antibes. The Prince of Monaco, who is Sovereign of the Country, marry’d a Princess of Lorrain, by whom he only had Daughters. He marry’d the Eldest of them, and the Heiress of all his Estate, to the Duke de Valentinois, Son to M. de Matignon.

From Monaco I went to St. Remo, the first Town in the Dominions of Genoa, where I took a Boat, which carry’d me to Savona, a City in the State of Genoa, with the Title of a Bishoprick. This is one of the best Towns in the Republic, and without Dispute the safest Sea-Port in its Dominions. The Genoese have caus’d a City to be built here with Two Fortresses, and several other Works, which render it a Place of very great Importance to the Republic.

I was so heartily out of Conceit with the Sea, that I hir’d Mules to carry me to Genoa, whither Two Thirds of the Road are scarce passable, by reason of the continual Ascents and Descents, which are very fatiguing. The only thing that made my Journey agreeable was, riding all along by the Sea-side, which being cover’d with Shipping, forms a very fine Prospect. After one has travell’d some Leagues from Genoa, the Road becomes very good; for besides that the Way is very even, one sees a great many noble Houses, with Gardens in Form of Terrace-Walks, which compose one of the most stately Amphitheatres that can be seen, and so it is all the Way to Genoa.

Genoa is an Archbishoprick, the Capital of the State of Genoa, and the ordinary Residence of the Doge and Senate. ’Tis the finest and most magnificent City in Italy; ’tis not very long that this Republic has enjoy’d its Liberty, it being the famous Andrew Doria who acquir’d it for his Country during the Reign of Francis I. King of France, to whom Genoa was subject. Since that time this City is very much increas’d: I enter’d it by the Gate adjoining to the Mole, which in my Opinion is the most proper Entrance, to give a Stranger at the first View a grand Idea of Genoa. I was amaz’d at the Magnificence of this Mole, and at the Beauty of the Harbour, which is surrounded with fine Houses, built in Form of an Amphitheatre. But nothing can compare with the Church of the Annunciade, where nought is to be seen but Gold, Marble, and the richest Paintings and Sculptures. At the very first Entrance one sees Two Rows of chamfer’d Pillars, of red vein’d Marble, lin’d with white Marble; the Capitals of the Columns are all over gilt, and they support a Dome, which is also gilt, and inrich’d with very fine Paintings. The Pavement is of Squares of Marble in Compartments. I don’t undertake to give a farther Detail of the Beauties of this Church, the same having been already so exactly related by so many Travellers, that it would be only a Repetition of what has been said a hundred times over.

The Streets of Genoa are, properly speaking, rather Galleries than Streets, there being nothing but Structures and Palaces of the utmost Magnificence, look which way one will. That which struck me most of all was the Palace of Balbi; I never saw any so regular, and with Fronts so conformable to the Rules of Architecture; but then it must be consider’d, ’tis in this grand Outside only that all the Magnificence of the Houses of Genoa consists; for when you enter into one of the greatest and richest Palaces, there’s not a Mortal to be seen, so that one would think there are no Domestics, and sometimes ’tis a difficult Matter to find the Master of the House. In a Word, the great Houses of Genoa are mere Solitudes, excepting on Assembly Days, of which there are some held here every Evening at the House of one Nobleman or another. Then the Apartments are nobly illuminated, and there’s all manner of Refreshments serv’d up in Profusion. Assemblies of this kind, and a sorry Italian Opera, were all the Pleasures at Genoa while I was there; so that a Stranger does not know what to do here with his Time. Here are also very few Entertainments made, and the Envoys, who are generally they that make the most, conform, when they are at Genoa, to the Temper of the People, which is to give their Guests nothing to eat or drink. In my time there was none here but the English Envoy, who did not follow that Custom, for ’twas a Pleasure to him to treat his Friends with good Cheer.

While I was at Genoa the Republic chose a new Doge: I saw him go to the Cathedral, and take the usual Oath: The Procession was on Foot; ’twas begun by some of the Doge’s Officers, after whom Eight Pages, in Habits of crimson Velvet lac’d with Gold, went before the Doge, who was dress’d in a long Robe of crimson Velvet, with a Sort of square Cap of the same: He was supported by the General of the Genoese Arms on his Right Hand, and by another Officer of the Republic on his Left Hand, and he walk’d between Two Files of the Hundred Swiss. The Senators follow’d two and two, dress’d in long Gowns of black Velvet. The Archbishop met the Doge about the middle of the Church, where was a Cushion of crimson Velvet for the Doge, and other Cushions for the Senators, who all kneel’d down as well as the Doge, and after a short Prayer the Archbishop led the Doge up to the Altar; then the Prelate took the Book of the Gospels, and presented it to the Doge, who, falling on his Knees, and laying his Hand on the Book, took an Oath to maintain the Republic in their Rights and Privileges; this done, the Doge return’d to his Palace, where he was complimented by all the Senators, and crown’d Doge of Genoa, and King of Corsica: Next Day he gave a great Feast to above 300 Persons.

The Doge of Genoa is a living Example of the Instability of human Grandeur: His lasts but Two Years, at the Expiration of which Word is brought to him, that his Time is out, and that he must quit the Ducal Palace, and retire to his own. A Man to be a Doge must be completely 50 Years of Age: You know how very much his Authority is limited; he can do neither Good nor Harm; the only Occasion wherein he makes a little Figure is, when he receives and dispatches Ambassadors in Ceremony.