MEMOIRS (continued 6)

The Count de Konigsfelt, the Envoy of Bavaria, was one of those who strove most with the Cardinal to serve me: This Minister liv’d very grand at Ratisbon: Every thing about him was of the utmost Magnificence: His Table was exquisite, his Music perfectly well compos’d, his Equipages of a noble Fancy, and he had a great Number of Domestics, all well cloath’d: All this external Appearance diffus’d an Air of Grandeur throughout this Minister’s Houshold, which gave a sublime Idea of the Prince whom he represented: The Sollicitations of this Minister for me were warmly seconded by the other Envoys, who also drew their Purse-strings for me: These were the Baron de Kirchner, the Joint Commissioner; M. de Vriesberg, the Envoy of Hanover; M. de Plettenberg, the Envoy of Munster; the Baron de Duremberg; the Envoy of Hesse-Cassel; and M. de Hagen, the Envoy of the Duke of Saxe-Gotha.

After having discharg’d what I thought Politeness and Gratitude demanded of me, I set out from Ratisbon, to meet my Brother, who was at Dusseldorff solliciting a Law-Suit, which we were jointly carrying on with Madamoiselle de Pollnitz, and which we lost, no doubt because it was not the Decree of Providence that we should enjoy the good Things of this World.

When I set out from Ratisbon I took the shortest Road, which was to go thro’ Nuremberg, Wurtzbourg and Francfort: I stopp’d a few Days at Wurtzbourg[34], one of the richest and most considerable Bishopricks in the Empire: The Bishop assumes the Title of Duke of Franconia: He, who then possess’d this See, was of the Family Schonborn: This Prelate kept up a Court and Houshold as considerable as any Prince in Germany: I saw him in all his Glory upon the Festival of the Patron of the Cathedral: He went from his House to the Church, with a Pomp truly Royal. I saw first the Bishop’s Harbinger, follow’d by all the Domestics and Gentlemen of his Court: Then came Six Coaches, drawn each by Six Horses, with the Bishop’s Arms: Afterwards there follow’d Two of the Prince’s Running-Footmen, and 24 of his other Footmen, all dress’d in his Livery, which was Purple, with Lace of green Velvet, mix’d with Silver Lace, and they had Waistcoats of green Cloth, lac’d with Silver: After the Footmen march’d 18 Pages with Cloaks of the Bishop’s Livery, lin’d with green Sattin: These were follow’d by above 50 Gentlemen, who walk’d immediately before a stately Coach, in which the Prince rode alone: His Master of the Horse, and the Captain of his Guards walk’d on Foot by the Sides of the Coach, which was guarded by Two Files of the Hundred Swiss, dress’d in the antique manner: 50 Life-Guards in Habits of purple Cloth lac’d with Silver, and with Bandoleers of green Velvet, lac’d also with Silver, follow’d the Coach: The March was, clos’d by Three fine Coaches, drawn each by Six Horses, with the Bishop’s Arms: Arriving with this Train at his Cathedral, he was receiv’d at the Gate by all the Chapter in a Body: A Domicellaire carry’d the Banner of Franconia, and the Marshal of the Bishop’s Court bore the Sword of State, to denote the Sovereignty of the Duchy of Franconia: The Prelate being conducted to the Vestry, and there array’d in his Pontificalibus, walk’d into the Choir: His Throne was rais’d Three Steps from the Floor, and plac’d under a magnificent Canopy, all of Tapistry, with a Silver Ground: As soon as he was seated the Office began, by a very fine Piece of Music, perform’d by the Bishop’s Musicians: After a very short Anthem the Prelate took the Holy Sacrament from the Altar, and carry’d it in Procession out of the Church: He went all round the Cathedral with it, preceded by the Domicellaire, and the Marshal of his Court, bearing one the Banner of Franconia, and the other the Sword: The Streets thro’ which the Procession pass’d were lin’d with 4000 Men of the Bishop’s Troops, which he had order’d into the Town to give the greater Splendor to the Ceremony: When the Procession was return’d to the Church, Mass was sung to Music, and the Bishop officiated: The Ceremony being ended, he return’d to his Palace, with the same Train that attended him to the Church.

The City of Wurtzbourg resembles the Magnificence of its Bishop, and has Buildings both sacred and profane, which are very grand: I will give you a more particular Account of some of them, after I have added a Word or Two of the City itself: ’Tis an ancient City, and has been subject to many Revolutions: ’Twas taken in 1526 by the Peasants of Swabia and Franconia, who rebell’d against their Lords upon a Supposition that Luther, who at that time preach’d up Rebellion against the Authority of the Pope, would likewise approve of their Revolt from their Sovereigns: Luther, however, instead of approving of their Conduct, wrote strenuously against them, but there was a Necessity of employing other Methods than Remonstrances to reclaim them: George Truchses of Waldbourg, Colonel of the Swabian League, soon reduc’d them to their Duty: He fac’d them with a good Number of Soldiers, and the Peasants were so rash as to make Head against them; for which, however, they suffer’d dearly, for they were defeated in several Engagements; and I was assur’d, that it cost the Lives of above 50,000 of them: After this Defeat Wurtzbourg remain’d quiet till William of Grumbach, who had some Complaint against the Bishop, caus’d him to be assassinated: The Chapter of Wurtzbourg prepar’d to revenge the Death of their Bishop, but Grumbach resolv’d to prevent them, and putting himself at the Head of 1200 Men, he surpriz’d the City in 1563, abandon’d it to the Pillage of his Soldiers, and by that means forc’d the Chapter to come to Terms with him: The Emperor Ferdinand II. being soon inform’d of Grumbach’s Transactions, put him under the Ban of the Empire; whereupon Grumbach retir’d to John-Frederic, Duke of Saxony, Son to that John-Frederic whom the Emperor Charles V. had degraded from the Electoral Dignity: This Misfortune of the Father ought to have been a Warning to the Son not to grant his Protection to such a Rebel as Grumbach: Nevertheless, it was no Restraint to him: The Emperor, incens’d at such Conduct, put the Duke also under the Ban of the Empire, and charg’d Augustus, Elector of Saxony, to see the Ban put in Execution: This Elector acquitted his Commission so well, that he secur’d John-Frederic, and sent him to the Emperor, who caus’d him to be committed Prisoner to Neustad, where, after 26 Years Imprisonment, the unhappy Prince dy’d: Grumbach, who was also arrested, was condemn’d to be broke alive, and his Accomplices were beheaded.

Ever since this Expedition Wurtzbourg has enjoy’d a profound Tranquillity; which has render’d it so rich and powerful as it is at this Day: Its Buildings both sacred and profane, as I have already had the Honour to mention to you, are very magnificent, and its Cathedral is a vast great Building, which contains immense Wealth: All the Ornaments of the Altar, the Pulpit, and the Two great Candlesticks before the Altar, are of solid Silver, as are also several Statues of our Saviour, the Holy Virgin, and some Saints as big as the Life: Besides all this Wealth there are beautiful and magnificent Hangings in the Choir, which represent some Passages of the Old Testament History: The Choir is higher than the Nave by several Steps: The High Altar consists of Four Pillars of black Marble, which form a Semicircle, and support a Cupola of Wood gilt, and very curiously wrought, which has on the Top of all a Ducal Crown: There are Chapels in the Body of the Church, where Vessels of Gold and Silver cast a Lustre on all Sides: The Bishop was building a Chapel by the Cathedral, which, when finish’d, must be very magnificent, for the Inside was to be lin’d throughout with Marble, which that Prelate had sent for from Italy for the Purpose: He hasten’d it the more, because, said he to me upon a time, I design to have my Bones laid there. Perhaps this Prince was persuaded in his Mind that he had not long to live, for within a few Months he dy’d: He was succeeded by Christopher-Francis of Houtten de Stoltzenberg, heretofore a Member of the Chapter of Wurtzbourg.

Besides the Cathedral there are several other fine Churches to be seen here, of which that of the Jesuits is one of the most magnificent: I afterwards went to see the Castle, which stands upon a Hill that looks over all the Town and Country: The Road that leads to it is very rough, and so incommodious for Coaches, that the late Bishop abandon’d it, and chose to dwell in a particular House in the Town, till the noble Castle which he was building was finish’d: I could not help thinking it wrong in him to leave a Structure so magnificent, and so suitable for a Sovereign, in which it may be said, that no Cost has been spar’d: ’Tis encompass’d on all Sides with Ramparts and other Works, which secure it from any Attack: The Inner Rooms of the Castle are indeed ancient, but they have lost nothing of that Air of Grandeur which denotes it to have been the Residence of a Prince: I never saw any thing look so fine as the Vaults in this Castle, which, because they can have no more Day-light than what peeps in at the Door, are illuminated by a great many Candles upon gilded Sconces: These Vaults are full of Barrels, most of which are of a monstrous Size, and they are all adorn’d with Carving, and full of Wine, of which they don’t fail to let Foreigners have a Taste.

As we go from the Court of the Castle one enters the Court of the Arsenal, which is a Building of Brick and Free-Stone: The lower Rooms are perfectly well arch’d over, and contain about 160 Brass Guns, the Generality of which are 24 Pounders, and some carry from 40 to 48 Pound Ball. The Pillars that support the Arch are garnish’d as well as the Walls with all the Instruments that are necessary for Gunners, and with every thing belonging to a Train of Artillery, even to the Harness of Horses: The Bases were adorn’d with Boxes full of Musket-Balls: Underneath there are large fine Cellars stor’d with Provisions enough to maintain 6000 Men for a Year. The upper Rooms serve for the Arms, of which I was assur’d there were enough for 40,000 Men, Horse and Foot, all rang’d in such Order, that ’tis a Pleasure to see them: The hollow Spaces are full of Flints and Balls: The Court of this Arsenal, and all the Bastions of the Castle are full of Bombs and Bullets: In short, to examine this Castle well, one would take it for the Temple of Mars, rather than for the Palace of a Minister of Peace.

The new Castle which the Bishop was building when I went into his Capital stands in the Town itself, near the Gate that leads to Nuremberg: ’Twill be one of the finest in Europe, if the Model I have seen of it be exactly pursued: All the Foundations were already finish’d, and about a Fourth Part of the Castle carry’d up to the first Story: But tho’ there was no Want of Labour, yet it requires a good deal of Time to bring to Perfection a Structure which is 360 and odd Feet in Front, and forms Five great Courts: The Bishop’s Design was to make the principal Stair-case of Marble, and to line the Chapel, the Guard-Chamber, the great Rooms of the Palace, and all the Chimneys and Doors with the same: The Gardens were to be answerable to the Magnificence of the Building, and the Bishop had actually demolish’d the Ramparts, and fill’d up the Ditches; but Death stopp’d him in the midst of his Undertaking, and he has left his Successor to take care, that the Work be finish’d according to the Plan of it, which has been admir’d by those who are good Judges.

After I had seen the Two Castles, I went to visit the great Hospital, which is a very fine Establishment: This Building is compos’d of a great Pavilion in the middle of Two very large Wings: The principal Entrance is thro’ the Pavilion, to which there is an Ascent by Two Steps; and on the Right and Left are Two fine Galleries in Form of Arches, which serve as Corridors to lead to the necessary Offices for maintaining the poor Pensioners of the Hospital: At the Top of the Stair-case of the Pavilion is an Entry, which leads to a couple of close Galleries, in which are the Chambers of the Pensioners, and to a large fine Room, all over carv’d, painted and gilt: On the Left Hand are Two great Closets, in which the Bishops retire during the Holy Week. The second Story is like the first; there’s a Room like to that I have been speaking of, wherein the Bishop, assisted by his Chapter, washes the Feet of the Poor upon Holy-Thursday, and afterwards regales, and serves them at Table, accompany’d by the Canons of his Chapter, who, when all is over, dine with him in the Room below Stairs: Behind this Hospital is a very fine Garden, adorn’d with Fountains, Grotto’s, and a fine Orangery, kept in very good Order; which is for the Pensioners to walk in when they please: The late Bishop, who was in every thing magnificent, design’d to enlarge this Building with Four Pavilions, like to that subsisting, which would have form’d a fine Court in the middle: There are other Hospitals also at Wurtzbourg to the Number of 15 or 16, all so well endow’d, as fully proves the Good-nature and Wealth of the People of this Country.

After I had stay’d at Wurtzbourg, I embark’d on the Maine, in which is most pleasant Sailing betwixt Vineyards and fine Plains, that form a Prospect as agreeably diversify’d as can be wish’d: When I arriv’d at Francfort I heard of the Death of Madamoiselle de Pollnitz, to whose Estate in Holland I was joint Heir with my Brother, but her other Estates went to her Mother, who was still living.

From Francfort I went to Dusseldorp, where I found my Brother, who was still in an ill Humour with the Judges, for having made us lose our Cause: For my Part, as I was more inur’d to Disappointments, I endeavour’d to comfort him, and advis’d him to go to Berlin, and sell what Estate we had there: The Death of my dear Cousin set us at Liberty to proceed to this Sale; for now the Entail was only between my Brother and me: My Brother set out therefore for Berlin, and I went to Hambourg, to wait the Issue of the Sale: I stay’d there from November to Easter, and spent the Winter very happily: I have already had the Honour to acquaint you, speaking of this City, that here was generally good Company: But this Winter there was more than usual, most of the People of Quality that had Houses in the Neighbourhood coming thither to pass the Season, and there were moreover several Ministers sent to the Circle of Lower Saxony, who were for most Part charming good Company: Such a one was M. Poussin, the Envoy of France, who was really a Minister of great Parts and uncommon Merit: The other Envoys were all likewise choice Companions: Besides these Ministers there were several other Families at Hambourg where Foreigners of any tolerable Rank were perfectly well entertain’d: The Count de Nat, a Lieutenant-General in the Emperor’s Service, and formerly Minister of State to the Duke of Holstein, and General of his Forces, kept a grand House there, which was noted for one of the best in Hambourg, where was a great Resort of Company every Day without the least Confusion: And there was a charming Air of Liberty throughout, which receiv’d additional Lustre from the noble and gracious Deportment of the Countess, that Minister’s Wife, to all Strangers that came to her: I need not give you a more particular Account of this Lady; for I remember to have heard you speak of her, as a Person of distinguish’d Merit, and who, with a great Share of Wit, was to the utmost degree polite. The Count de Guldenstein made a considerable Figure also at Hambourg; his Table was delicate, and always furnish’d with the best of Company; judge, Madame, whether I could think the time tedious in a City, where from Morning till Night there was a continual Round of Pleasure: We din’d to Day at one House, To-morrow at another; and in the Afternoons there was Play, which was sometimes interrupted by Adjournments to the Opera, with which I was very well pleas’d: I found the Orchestre excellent, the Decorations noble, the Dances very well executed, the Actors richly dress’d, and such as endeavour’d to play their Parts for the best.

I set out from Hambourg with a numerous Company to go to the Fair of Kiel, which begins the next Day after Epiphany, and holds Three Weeks: All this time Hambourg is a perfect Desert, for every body hurries to this Fair, because ’tis there that they are commonly paid their Rents, that Leases are renew’d with the Farmers, and that Money is let out to Advantage: Tho’ I had no Business of this nature to transact there, yet I was determin’d not to stay behind so much good Company as went from Hambourg.

The Town itself is inconsiderable; it stands between Hills on an Arm of the Sea, where it forms a Lake, and washes the Walls of the Duke’s Castle, which is in very bad Repair, and quite unfurnish’d: And there’s a Garden to it, which is in as bad Order as the Building: This Town is so populous all the Fair-time, that ’tis difficult to get a Lodging: The Gentry meet every Evening at a House, where is Variety of Play, and very often there are Parties made for Supper, which is generally follow’d with a Ball: There is moreover a German Comedy, which, tho’ detestable, is well frequented.

After the Fair was over, I went and pass’d Two Days with a Friend of mine at an Estate of his Three Leagues from Kiel: Then I return’d to Hambourg, where I stay’d till Easter, and having receiv’d News from Berlin, that no Purchaser could be found who was willing to give so much Money for my Estate as I demanded; I resolv’d to go thither, in order to make some Settlement about it with my Brother; I kept there incog. as well as I could, for I made myself known to only Two or Three Friends besides my Steward: When my Business was done I set out from Berlin with my Brother, in order to go to his House at Zell; where I intended to stay till the proper Season for taking the Waters at Carelsbadt.

When that time came, I departed from Zell: I stay’d some time at Blankenberg, where the Empress’s Father and Mother then resided: This is no considerable Town: There is a Castle, which, by its Situation upon a very high Hill, is mightily inconvenient for the Duke’s Domestics, who all live in the Town: ’Tis an old Building, which the Father of the present Duke has caus’d to be repair’d and fitted up, as well as possible in the modern Taste: The Apartments are small, the only large one being a very beautiful Saloon, the Walls whereof are adorn’d with Pilasters, and Pictures between them of the Princes and Princesses, Parents to the Duke and Duchess: And at the End of the Saloon are Chimneys, over which are the Pictures of the Duke and Duchess themselves at full Length.

To this Castle is a very fine Park adjoining, in which the Duchess has a Menagery, or rather, a Farm-house, where she has a great Number of Cows that she sent for from Swisserland, in a Stable which is kept extraordinary clean.

The Duke and Duchess were so kind to me, that I long’d to be in their Service: I had no longer any Thoughts of being a Clergyman, and was then at entire Liberty to make serious Reflections upon all the Projects that had enter’d into my Head: Having then a Fancy to serve the Duke of Blankenberg, I took my Measures for that End almost as soon as I had thought of it: The Privy Counsellor undertook to speak for me, and at first he had a very favourable Answer, but at last it far’d with me in this Attempt, as it had in all the rest; I receiv’d a great many Compliments, and yet was deny’d.

After having stay’d awhile at Blankenberg, I took Leave of the Duke and Duchess: The Princess was so good as to accept of a Couple of very pretty Dogs I had brought with me; and me made me a Present of a Gold Medal worth 25 Ducats, stamp’d with the Effigy of the Duke her Husband, very much like him.

From Blankenberg I went to Barbi[35], where I had the Honour of waiting upon the Duke of Saxony, who commonly resides there: This Prince was heretofore in the Service of the late King of Prussia, when he was only Elector: He had left the Service a long time, and retir’d to his Town of Barbi, where he has erected a noble Castle, the Apartments of which are perfectly well furnish’d: There’s a superb Saloon, with a Chamber of Audience on one Side of it, and a Closet, that are both worth seeing; all the Furniture being of crimson Velvet embroider’d with Gold, of admirable Workmanship.

From Barbi I proceeded to Carelsbadt by the way of Leipsick: I was soon weary of using the Waters, because the Season was so far advanc’d, that most of the Water-Drinkers were gone: Having therefore nothing to write to you of any of the Acquaintance which is commonly made at Places of this nature, I shall only treat of Carelsbadt itself: ’Tis a very dirty Place, and inhabited only by Artificers, who work in old Iron: The Waters taken here are of Two Kinds, and they are distinguish’d by the Names of the Sproudel and the Muhlbadt: The Sproudel-Water is extremely hot, and gushes out of the Ground with a most vehement Stream, as big as a Man about the Waist: Its Waters are not only hot, but scalding hot, which is the more surprizing, because the Fountain from whence they flow, is on the Side of a River very rapid, and very cold: Yet, in the midst of this River, one sees mineral Waters, which smoak as if they were boiling in a Caldron.

As to the Muhlbadt ’tis but little more than lukewarm: ’Tis not very long that the Physicians have prescrib’d the Use of this Water, which formerly serv’d to wash diseased Cattle in with very good Success; but the Physicians taking the nature of this Water into Consideration, have since recommended it to those People who find the Waters of the Sproudel too violent in their Operation: I have made Use of both, and they work’d with me very well: They have no ill Taste; and ’tis certain, that if it were ever so little disagreeable, it would be impossible for People to drink so much of it, as they do every Day: The thing that I dislike them most for, is, that they must be taken in one’s Chamber, which must be also kept close shut up, because the Sproudel makes one sweat largely, so that were ever so little Air to be let into the Room, one should be in Danger of catching Rheumatisms: People scarce ever stir out till Three or Four Hours after they have done drinking the Waters; and the rest of the Day there’s an absolute Necessity of walking about to prevent sleeping, which after Dinner is dangerous: The worst on’t is, that as necessary as Walking is, there’s not one agreeable Place to walk in, the Walks being all extremely narrow, and nothing but Rocks to be seen, look which way one will: The finest Walk of all is in a square Place, which is planted with Rows of Lime-Trees: Opposite to this Square is a great House, where there are very fine Rooms, in which the Persons of Quality, who drink the Waters, assemble at Five o’Clock, and play till Eight, the Hour for Supper, at which Meal People ought to be very sparing; Regimen being one of the most necessary things to be observ’d in the Taking of those Waters.

When I had done taking them I set out Post for Prague, where I knew that their Imperial Majesties were to be present for their Consecration and Coronation: I arriv’d there the Day before their Majesties were to make their Entry, which was perform’d with great Magnificence, but would have been abundantly more pompous, if the bad Weather had not prevented the intended Cavalcade, which would have been one of the noblest Sights in the World: The Emperor propos’d to have enter’d this Capital on Horseback, at the Head of all the Nobility of Bohemia, and they had all laid out prodigious Sums in Horses and Equipages; but a monstrous Shower of Rain fell, which frustrated all the Preparations: Their Majesties made their Entry in a magnificent Coach lin’d with crimson Velvet, richly embroider’d with Gold: The Emperor, who sate alone in the Back part of it, was dress’d in a Habit of Silver Brocade embroider’d with Gold, with a Hat on in the Imperial Fashion, with straw-colour’d Plumes: The Empress, who sate over-against him, was dress’d in a green silver’d Stuff all cover’d with Diamonds: The Two young Archduchesses follow’d in another Coach, with the Princess of Aversberg their Governess in Company.

As soon as it was known in the City that their Majesties were coming, all the Bells were rung, the Cannon fir’d from the Ramparts, and the Burghers and Garison made several Salvo’s of the Small Arms: The Magistrates of the Three Towns which compose the City of Prague receiv’d their Majesties at the City Gates, where the chief Burgomaster of the Quarter call’d the Old Town gave them the Keys of the Three Towns, and congratulated them on their Arrival at the City of Prague: After he had ended his Speech, their Majesties were welcom’d a second time by the Cannon of the Ramparts, and by the Salvo’s of the Small Arms from the Burghers and the Garison: They then continued their March towards the Palace, and in their Passage met with the Friars and Nuns, who saluted them at the Gates of their several Convents: The Emperor and the Empress stopp’d their Coach every now-and-then, on Purpose to be seen by those Friars; but there was no Convent that was treated with so many Marks of Distinction as that of the Jesuits: They had the Honour of complimenting their Majesties in a Speech, with which they seem’d well satisfy’d: When they were arriv’d at the Palace, their Majesties alighted from the Coach, and went to the Metropolitan Church, which joins to the Palace: The Archbishop of Prague, at the Head of the Bishops his Suffragans and his Chapter, receiv’d them as they alighted out of the Coach, and after having complimented them in the Name of all the Clergy, he conducted them to their Praying-Desk, which was plac’d over-against the High Altar, and there their Majesties receiv’d the Blessing of the Holy Sacrament: After this there was a Te Deum, during which there was a triple Discharge of the Cannon and Small Arms: This done, they retir’d to their Apartments thro’ a cover’d Gallery, which runs from the Church to the Castle: At Night they supp’d in public with the Two young Archduchesses.

Next Day their Majesties receiv’d the Compliments of the Three Estates of the Kingdom: On the following Days the Court return’d to their old Custom; I mean, they liv’d at Prague, after the same manner as they did at Vienna, till every thing was ready for the Ceremonies of the Consecration and Coronation, which were to be perform’d on Two different Days.

Mean time I amus’d myself in viewing what was most remarkable in the Town, and had Reason to be very well pleas’d with the Steps, which I was oblig’d to take to be well acquainted with this Capital[36], which may in my Opinion be reckon’d among the first Towns in Europe: It stands in a pleasant and fruitful Country, and the Palace and Pleasure-houses round it form a sort of Amphitheatre, which the River of Moldaw divides into Two Parts, that are join’d by one of the finest Bridges in the World.

Prague is divided into Three Parts, viz. The Old Town, which alone is as big as the other two Thirds of the City, namely, The Little Town and The New Town: In the Little Town stands the Metropolitan Church, and the Castle of the Kings of Bohemia, upon a Hill which they call Ratschin: This is the first Quarter of Prague that one comes to from Nuremberg or Carelsbadt.

The Metropolitan would be a great and noble Church, if it was finish’d; or rather, if it was rebuilt; for ’twas burnt by the Swedes in 1648; what remains of it is inconsiderable, excepting however some very fine Chapels, that contain the Relics of certain Saints, for whom Bohemia has a singular Veneration: Such is the Chapel in which rests the Body of St. Wenceslaus King of Bohemia, by whom the Church was founded: This Saint is the Patron of Bohemia, and the whole Kingdom has a great Confidence in his Intercession: On one Side of the Choir is a stately Mausoleum, which contains the Body of St. John Nepomucene, who was beatify’d in 1721 with very great Pomp, in Presence of the Empress, who was at the Charge of the Ceremony: The City of Prague, in order to do Honour to the Memory of this Saint, has caus’d his Statue in Brass, as big as the Life, to be erected upon the Bridge, from whence the Emperor Wenceslaus, surnam’d the Nero and Caligula of Germany, threw him into the Moldaw, because that Friar, who was his Empress’s Confessor, refus’d to reveal her Confession to him.

The Palace of the Kings of Bohemia, which joins to the Metropolitan Church, is a Heap of several Pavilions without any Regularity, and without much Ornament: The Inside is as ordinary as the Outside, yet for a little Expence it might easily be made a tolerable Structure: The only thing I observ’d here that could be call’d magnificent, was the Situation of it, for from their Majesties Apartments there’s the finest View that can be imagin’d.

As one goes from the Palace upon the same Hill, one sees the great Houses of Schwartzenbourg, Martinitz, and Tschermin, which are noble Buildings, and most richly furnish’d: The last especially has more the Air of a Sovereign’s Palace than of the House of a Subject; and he that inhabits it is one of the richest in the Emperor’s Hereditary Dominions: I heard say, that he lent the Emperor 1500,000 Florins, which makes Three Millions of French Livres, when the Exchange is at Par.

I went down the Hill Ratschin to go farther into the City: And on the Descent of it I saw at the Right Hand the Palace of Kinski, which belongs to the Great Chancellor of Bohemia; and at the Left Hand the Palace of the Count de Collobradt, surnam’d the Bulky, and very justly so, for I don’t think he has his Fellow in the World; and yet it may be expected, that he will be bigger still, for he is as yet but 24 Years old. These Two Houses are very beautiful, but yet they are somewhat eclipsed by the Palaces of Colloredo, Wallenstein, and the Count Francis-Charles de Collobradt: The Palace of this latter excells the others in Contrivance and Magnificence, and is adorn’d throughout with very fine Gildings and Paintings, done by the best Masters: The Apartments are richly furnish’d, and neither Gold has been spar’d, nor Pier-Glasses, of which there’s a great Number, and yet not so many as to confound the Sight: To this House belongs a very fine Garden, which is kept in good Order, and at the End of it is a Hill, the Declivity whereof is soften’d by several Terraces cut out on it, which form very pleasant Walks, especially when ’tis consider’d, that all this is in the middle of a City.

I went afterwards to see the Old Town, to which one must pass over a noble Stone-Bridge, and the only one at Prague: The Piles of this Bridge are adorn’d with the Statues of several Saints; and some that compose noble Groupes: Among these Statues is that of St. John Nepomucene, at the Foot of which are People always at Prayers. On the same Side, but nearer the old City, is a great Crucifix of Copper gilt, which the Jews were compell’d to set up in this Place, as a Punishment for some Crimes they had committed.

At the End of the Bridge stands the Gate of the Old Town: The first thing one observes there, is the Great Convent and College of the Jesuits: ’Tis a prodigious Building, and worthy of a Society so considerable: Beyond that I saw a magnificent Palace, which they told me belongs to the Count de Gallasch, Son to the Count of the same Name, who died Viceroy of Naples: ’Tis one of the finest Buildings in Prague, setting aside its Situation, which is not the best: There are many other Palaces and magnificent Houses, the particular Description of which might be tedious: All that I shall say to you of this Part of the Town, is, that the Streets are very narrow, and withal darksome: The New Town is by far superior; the Streets are spacious and beautiful, and the whole Quarter is much better built than the other Two.

The City of Prague and the Kingdom of Bohemia in general have formerly been subject to great Revolutions: The Hussites committed sad Disorders there, and had like to have ruin’d the whole Country by their Cabals; so that there was a Necessity of drawing the Sword against them, and when they were totally extirpated, the Protestants of Luther’s Communion became so powerful there, that they presum’d, under Pretence of Religion, to revolt from the Emperor Ferdinand their Sovereign: They ran tumultuously to the Castle, and having made themselves Masters of it, they threw the Emperor’s Commissioners, who then held their Assembly there, out of the Windows of the Hall: Those on the Spot were the Barons de Slavata and de Martinitz; and the Secretary Fabricius had the same Fate; but happily for all Three, there was not one of them wounded: After this Coup d’Eclat the Rebels rais’d Troops, solemnly protested against the Election of Ferdinand II. to the Empire, and offer’d the Crown of Bohemia to Frederic V. Elector and Count Palatine of the Rhine: This Prince could not easily determine himself to receive a Crown, which he could not so soon expect to possess in Quiet; but his Wife, who was the Daughter of James I. King of England, did not amuse herself with any such Reflections and probably upon the Principle, That to reign is glorious, tho’ it were only for a Moment: This Princess so wrought upon the Elector, that the said Prince, for Want of knowing his own Interest better, consented at length to put himself at the Head of the Rebels, who had the Assurance to crown him with Solemnity in the Metropolitan Church of Prague: The Emperor, justly provok’d at the Behaviour of his Subject, sent Troops to reduce them to Reason: Frederic, on his Part, put himself at the Head of a considerable Army; but ’twas impossible for him to stand before the Emperor’s Troops; which being commanded by the famous Tilly, beat him to such a Degree, that he thought himself very happy, that he could retire with the Queen his Wife, and abandon the Throne to his lawful Sovereign: This Rebellion involv’d Germany in that unhappy War call’d, The War of Thirty Years; because in Fact it lasted so long, till a Period was put to it by the Peace of Westphalia.

During the Course of this War Bohemia had frequent Cause to repent that it ever was the Occasion of it: The City of Prague, and in particular the Little Town, was almost intirely plunder’d and burnt in 1648 by the Swedes, who were introduced into it by one Ottowalsky, then a Captain of Horse in the Service of the Emperor Ferdinand III. This Officer having conceiv’d a Disgust at something, made a Trip to Koningsmark the Swedish General, and offer’d to introduce him to Prague, if he would follow him with his Army: For this Purpose he told him, that the Citizens were intirely secure against any Apprehension of an Attack from the Swedes; and that they were fully persuaded, they would never venture to make the least Attempt, considering the Handful of Soldiers which their Army consisted of. Koningsmark relish’d Ottowalsky’s Project, and on the Day fix’d he follow’d him with his little Army, which did not amount to above 3000 Men: He found every thing true that his Guide had told him, and in the Night-time enter’d the Place by a Bridge, that serv’d to carry over the Materials employ’d in the new Fortifications: Koningsmark push’d on directly to the Castle, which he enter’d with the same Ease as he had enter’d the Town: But by good Luck the Emperor happen’d at that time to be gone from thence for awhile to Lintz: The Swedes plunder’d the Castle and the City for Three Days successively; and they took so considerable a Booty, that Colloredo, who commanded in the Place, lost to his own Share about 1200,000 Crowns: While the Swedes were busy in plundering that call’d the Little Town, the Alarm spread over the River to the Old Town, where the Burghers and Garison ran to their Arms, and by that means preserv’d their Quarter from the Fate which threaten’d them: Mean time the Swedes made extraordinary Efforts to get over to them, and ’tis even said, that they would probably have succeeded, had it not been for the Jesuits, who perceiving that the Garison and Burghers were in Danger of being overpower’d, arm’d their Scholars, and sent them out to their Assistance.

The City of Prague is now secure from such Insults, having good Walls and excellent Ramparts, well furnish’d with Cannon: The Castle is likewise very well fortify’d: A Citadel has been also built for the Defence of the New Town, and as none but Catholics are suffer’d to live there, the Protestants, who are absolutely excluded out of it, would find it a difficult Task to foment another Rebellion there.

After I had spent some time at Prague, and found that the Ceremony of their Majesties Coronation would not be perform’d so soon as expected, I resolv’d to be gone: Having already laid out a good deal of Money at Prague, I reflected with myself, that if I stay’d there any longer, it might be out of my Power to answer all my Schemes: For you must know, Madame, that I set out from Berlin with a considerable Sum of Money, and with a Design, while I was so well able, to pay off all my Creditors: I began with those in Holland, and for this Purpose went to the Hague about the latter End of August, and stay’d there till February: The first Visit I paid was to my dear Madame Pyll, who had been so generous a Friend to me, that I could not avoid paying her off first: I then made several small Payments up and down, by which means the Debts I had contracted in this Country were quickly discharg’d; and being still pretty strong in Cash, I pass’d my Time at the Hague as well as I could have done at the most splendid Court; My Debts in this Country being now clear’d, and the Ease with which I had satisfy’d other Debts that were standing out farther off, gave me that Tranquillity of Mind which I had not enjoy’d for a long time; and tho’ I had yet no fix’d Establishment, I thought what a great Happiness it was for a Man to be even with the World.

My Brother came to me at the Hague, from whence we set out together for Zell, where I stay’d till the Return of the fine Weather, and then resolv’d to go a second time to Carelsbadt, not so much for the Sake of the Waters as to see the Company there, which is always numerous, and of the best Sort, when one goes earlier thither than I did the first time: There was a prodigious Concourse there this bout, and all Persons of the greatest Distinction: I had the Honour there of paying my Compliments to the Elector of Triers, and the Margravine of Anspach, who came thither for the Waters.

From Carelsbadt I cross’d the Rhine, to that Side of it where I had been offer’d a Settlement; but, upon mature Consideration, I resolv’d to preserve my Liberty, and lest my Philosophy should flag in the Sentiments of that Independency which it inspir’d me with, I set out immediately, for fear of being engag’d in a sort of Combat, wherein there’s no gaining the Victory but by Flight.

I pass’d thro’ Bareith[37], where I had the Honour of paying my Respects to the Margrave and the Margravine, who receiv’d me with all the Complaisance possible: The Margrave is a tall handsome Man, and serv’d in the last Wars with very great Distinction: This Prince is fond of Pleasure and Magnificence, for which Reason his Court is one of the most numerous and splendid in Germany; and it has an Air of Grandeur throughout, from which all manner of Constraint is intirely banish’d: The Margravine has all the Qualities that a great Princess can possibly desire; she is one of the finest Ladies in Germany, is tall, perfectly handsome, and has a Presence, which at first Sight denotes her Dignity: ’Tis pity this Princess had not given a Male Heir to her Dominions; for she has yet but one Child, a Daughter, and if there are no Princes, the Prince of Culmbach will be Heir of the Margrave’s Dominions: The deceased King of Prussia had bought the Reversion, by which he cut off the Margraves of Culmbach; but after his Majesty’s Death those Princes entring their Protest against a Bargain that had been struck to their Prejudice, the present King has compounded the Matter with them; and by virtue of the Accommodation the Princes of Culmbach are engag’d to pay a considerable Sum to the King at different Terms, one of which elaps’d at the Death of the Margrave of Bareith, as the other will do when the young Prince of Anspach also dies, because then his Dominions revert in like manner to the Princes of Culmbach.

I follow’d the Margrave’s Court to Himmelscron, which is one of his Hunting-Seats: ’Twas formerly a Convent, and since turn’d into a Castle, which is charmingly situated on a little Hill, inviron’d with Meadows, where the Margrave had a Camp of 2000 Men of his own Troops, which were all in good Condition, and they appear’d to me to be nicely disciplin’d: His Officers are all Men of Merit, and a good Mien: On the Side of the Meadow where the Camp was, is a Mall, planted with Four Rows of Elms, the finest that are to be seen: At the End of this Mall, which is one of the longest in Europe, is a Play-house, and about the middle of this Mall a very large Pavilion, with a Room where the Prince and Princess play’d every Night with the Nobility of their Court.

The Margrave’s Table, which was always magnificently serv’d, especially at Dinner, is made in Form of a Horse-shoe: The Princess always sate in the middle, having on her Left Hand the Princess her Daughter and the young Princess of Culmbach, and on her Right the Ladies of her Court and the Gentlemen: The Margrave sate over-against her in the Inside of the Horse-shoe, with several Gentlemen on his Right and Left Hand: Besides the Margrave’s Table, there were Two others for Sixteen Guests each in another Room, for such Gentlemen as could not be admitted to the Table of the Margrave: After the Fruit was serv’d, a great Salver was set upon the Table with a Coffee-pot and Cups, all of Silver, and every one there drank Coffee without rising from the Table.

Immediately after Dinner was over, the Margravine and the Princesses retired, but the Margrave stay’d in the Room to talk with the Courtiers: This Prince commonly stood, leaning only against a Table, and the Conversation was spirited every now-and-then by the Circulation of Bumpers: The Margrave was a good Toper, but he left every Person that attended him to his free Liberty.

About Six o’Clock, when the Princess was near upon going out, the Margrave went to the Mall where there was Play at Ombre or Picquet till Supper-time, after which they return’d to the Castle. The Prince had another very fine House just without Bareith, which is call’d Brandebourg: It stands on the Side of a great Lake, where are several Galleys, Yachts and Gondola’s, which he often engages in Combats with one another; and of this he gave us a very noble Representation, from a Theatre built on the Side of the Lake, so that when the Bottom of it was laid open, the Theatre appears level with the Lake, and has a Prospect of it for half a League.

In the middle of the Lake is an Island with a Fortification, which the Margrave orders his Troops every now-and-then to attack and defend, on Purpose to refresh their Memories with the military Evolutions.

About half a League from this House is another, call’d the Hermitage, because no Persons can go to it, but such as are appointed; and likewise, because all the time that the Margrave stays there, the Prince, Princess and all their Retinue are dress’d like Hermits: An Avenue leads to this House, at the End of which is a large Grotto representing Mount Parnassus, with Apollo, the Nine Muses, and Pegasus, forming so many Fountains: This Mount is open on the Four Sides, and gives Passage into a Court, or rather a Square, where there are several Rows of Trees: The middle Walk leads to the Castle, the Architecture whereof is perfectly rustic, and it seems to have been built out of the very Rock: At the Entrance of it one meets with a very fine Work, adorn’d with Shell-work and several Statues representing the Rivers and Nymphs: As we go out of the Grotto we enter into a little square Garden-Plot, which is encompass’d with a rustic Building, and at the End of the Garden is the main Pavilion, with Two Wings, which communicate with another by means of a magnificent Saloon, fac’d all over with Marble: The Right Wing of the Saloon contains an Apartment consisting of several Chambers, which belongs to the Margrave, who is Father-Superior of the Hermits; and on the same Side are a Dozen Cells for as many Hermits: On the opposite Side is the same Number of Apartments for the Margravine and the Hermit-Ladies: The great Saloon serves for the Refectory, where the Hermits of both Sexes have their Meals.

The Garden is large, and kept in very good Order: At the End of it is a Cascade, that falling from the Top of a Hill, has a charming Effect: On the Sides of the Cascade are Terraces, and very commodious Slopings, furnish’d on both Sides with a Palisade of Yoke-Elms that is breast-high; and on each Side are Fir-trees, with Paths between them, each of which leads to a Pavilion, whereof every Hermit has one: These Pavilions are built and furnish’d after the manner of a Hermitage: The Hermits were oblig’d to retire thither after Dinner, in order to observe a profound Silence; but this Custom is mitigated in some measure, and they are now at Liberty to visit one another: The Superior and the Superioress commonly pay them a Visit: Towards the time of Recreation the Superioress tinkles her Bell, to which the Prioress answers by her’s, and the Hermits of both Sexes tinkle their’s also, as a Token that they have heard their Summons to their Superior. When they are arriv’d there, they go out together, and repair to the Place of Recreation, where they amuse themselves with all manner of Play, and at the Hour of Supper they repair to the Refectory: Sometimes the Hermit-Ladies regale the Prior with Dishes of their own preparing in the Superioress’s Kitchen: The Hermits for their own Part may take the Pleasure of Hunting: You perceive, Madame, that ’tis pleasant Living enough in such a Solitude, and that there’s nothing too severe in its Statutes. When the Court have spent their appointed Time at the Hermitage, they all return to Bareith.

After I had been thus an Eye-Witness of the free and easy Life that People lead at the Court of the Margrave, I took Leave of the Prince and Princess, with a Design to proceed in my Journey, not so much to seek an Employment, as to satisfy the Debts, which I had been oblig’d to contract at a time, when they allowed me no more out of my Estate than barely what they could not possibly take away from me: Here, Madame, I conclude the Account of my Rambles. How tedious soever a Narrative of so little Concern may appear to you, be so good as not to take it amiss of me, and to consider, that I wrote it only in Obedience to Orders often repeated: Some Person more self-interested might have scrupled such Obedience; nor did I want Reasons to alledge for my Excuse; only I was afraid lest such obstinate Silence on my Part should be deem’d unworthy of that profound Respect, with which I am, and ever shall be,

Madame, Your Most Humble, And Most Obedient Servant, De Pollnitz.