MEMOIRS (continued 5)

I own to you, Madame, I was a little stunn’d by this Shock: For I had neither Money nor Credit, and knew not who I could ask to lend me a Sum, till I receiv’d a Quarter’s Wages: Besides, how could I depend upon such Pay as was put off from one Year to another? In this sad Situation I was so fortunate as to make an Acquaintance with Mr. Stanhope, by the means of one Holtzendorff, that Minister’s Secretary, who was a Native of Berlin, and has a Brother a Valet de Chambre to the King of Prussia. He was glad to shew me his Acknowledgment of some Services my Relations had done him, by bringing me acquainted with his Master. Mr. Stanhope was wonderfully kind to me, and even interceded in my Favour with the Confessor, and with M. Scotti, the Minister of Parma, who could do any thing with the Queen; but Mr. Stanhope had no better Success than I had: However, he did me all the Services in his Power, press’d me to accept of his Table, offer’d me also his Equipage, and advanc’d me some Money: In a Word, he treated me as the best Friend I had could have done; and I may say, that I have substantial Obligations to that Gentleman, because, if it had not been for him, all my Days in Spain would have been Sorrows, and my Travel Grief[28].

While I lost so much Time in solliciting Father Daubanton, I did not omit to take Notice of what was remarkable, not only at Madrid but the Royal Palaces, to which the Court remov’d from time to time. Madrid is, properly speaking, the Capital City of all Spain, and the common Residence of its Kings, who have a large Palace there, the chief Front of which was built by the Emperor Charles V. The Inside has been alter’d for the better, and much embellish’d by Philip V. The Castle is at the End of a large Court which forms a long Square: The Two Sides of this Court are lin’d with low Buildings, Part whereof serves as a Guard-house for the Spanish and Walloon Guards, who range themselves in Two Rows in this Court, when the King or any of the Royal Family passes thro’ it. At the Entrance of this Court there are Three grand Portico’s. The Front of the Palace on the Court-side consists of a main Pile of Building, in the Centre between Two very narrow Pavilions; and at the Entrance of each is a great Gate: The middlemost, which is the principal, is very darksome, and leads into a very spacious Area, arch’d over, where several Coaches may turn at one and the same time: This separates Two Square Courts of the same Size and Structure, encompass’d with a Range of Free-Stone Pillars, that form a Piazza which runs all round it. In the Court, which is on the Right Hand, is the Stair-Case, which leads up to the Apartments of the King and Queen; and in the other are the Offices of the Ministers.

The King’s Apartment consists in the first Place of a Guard-Room, which is neither spacious nor lightsome: On the Left Side of this Room is a very long Row of Chambers, very narrow and low, without a Ceiling, or any other Ornaments, but very rich Tapistry: At the End of this Row there are Three Apartments, built by Order of the Princess of Ursins: The first of these is a large Saloon, very high and well proportion’d, inlaid and wainscotted, and in the Compartments are to be seen the Pictures of several Kings, Queens and Princes of Spain, painted by the ablest Masters: The second Piece is an Octogon, contriv’d in that Form for the Sake of Four little Offices in the Angles of the Square: From this Apartment is a Passage to the King’s Chamber, which is very large, and intirely furnish’d with crimson Damask, adorn’d with Gold Lace and Fringe, tho’ the Tapistry can scarce be seen, ’tis so much hid by excellent Pictures and noble Pier-Glasses.

The Queen’s Apartment is not so large, nor near so fine as the King’s: Her Majesty has a Guard-Room separate from the King’s: Their Majesties may walk on the same Floor to the Chapel, which is not very large, but richly adorn’d: The Gallery is no higher than the Pavement of the Chapel, which is of very fine Marble: The Windows of the Chapel are all of Glass: None but the Infantes fit in the Gallery, and the Grandees of Spain are seated upon Forms, that are plac’d on each Side from the Gallery to the Altar: I am apt to think, that the Cardinals are allow’d a Great Chair and a Reading Desk in the Chapel, even tho’ his Majesty be present: At least, I saw, that the Cardinal Borgia had that Privilege.

In this Palace the King us’d to pass the Winter till Mid-Lent, and then his Majesty went to the Palace of Retiro, which stands near the Gate of Alcala: ’Tis a vast large Building, but without Ornament or Architecture, and looks more like a Convent than a Royal House: The Inside too is perfectly answerable to the Outside: The Rooms are very small, the Tapistries and Paintings very rich, but the Spaniards are so negligent, that they suffer the Rats to gnaw the fine Hangings, and take no Care to repair them: There are noble Pictures also in another Room of this same Palace, which represent the principal Actions of the Duke of Feria, several of which Pictures, more is the Pity, have been cut into Quarters to enlarge the Entry of the Room.

The Gardens of this Palace are inconsiderable. Philip V. it seems intended once to have embellish’d them, and had actually caus’d the Works for it to be begun, but the same have since been discontinued: There’s nothing in them remarkable besides a Statue of Brass, which is plac’d in the middle of a little Flower-Garden wall’d in: ’Tis a Statue of Philip II. on Horseback, and one of the boldest Pieces of Sculpture in Europe: The Horse is represented curvetting with his whole Body, resting upon only one of his Haunches: The rest of the Gardens is nothing but a great Inclosure with irregular Walks: I saw a very fine Piece of Water there: The King’s Mall is worth seeing, as is also the Menagery, which is full of very uncommon Animals.

The King and the Queen, whether they are at Madrid or at Retiro, always live in the same manner: They were not the most early Risers, and when the Levee was notify’d, their Majesties did not rise for all that immediately; but the King first had a Couple of new-laid Eggs, and then some Chocolate for his Breakfast: The Queen only drank some Chocolate: After this their Majesties sent for the Marquis de Grimaldo, with whom they talk’d about Business, after which they arose: Then Father Daubanton came in, and stay’d with the King a full Hour: His Majesty went afterwards to Mass, and when Chapel was over, the King gave Audience to his Subjects, or else went to the Council of Castile: Sometimes he employ’d himself in his Closet till Dinner, when he sat down quite in private, with none but the Queen: After Dinner their Majesties went out together a Hunting, and return’d somewhat late: As soon as they were come back, they were serv’d with a Collation, which consisted of cold Partridge, of the like to which Collations M. de Grimaldo was admitted: When these were ended, the King gave Audience in his Closet to the Foreign Ministers, or other Persons of Distinction: During these Audiences the King was commonly standing and bare-headed, and the Queen was all the while behind a Screen, near enough for her to hear every Word that was said: After these Audiences, when the King had a Mind to do Business, he sent for the Marquis de Castelar or Campoflorido, who stay’d but Half an Hour with him at most. Then his Majesty spent the rest of the Evening with the Infants, the Ladies of the Bedchamber and their Associates; and sometimes there was Play till Supper was ready, at which M. de Scotti, the Minister of Parma, and a very great Favourite, was generally present, to converse with their Majesties: As soon as they arose from Table they went to Bed.

The Pleasures of the Court when in the Country, were little, if any thing, more gay than those at Madrid: I saw the Court more than once at Aranjuez, where I took Notice, that they spent their Afternoons either in Hunting or taking the Air in the Gardens of the Palace: In these Airings their Majesties shot Crows with small Hand-Guns, which would kill at a good Distance: The Queen generally hit her Mark better than the King. While their Majesties hunted on one Side of the Castle, the Prince of Asturias, accompany’d by the Infante his Brother and his Governors, hunted on the other Side, and did not return till Night.

The King spent the Easter-Holidays while I was here at the Palace of Retiro: This gave me an Opportunity of seeing the Processions of the Holy Week, which were made upon every Good-Friday, to the Palace of Retiro, where the King and the Queen, the Prince of Asturias and the Infants saw them pass: I will frankly confess to you, that I never saw any thing so pitiful, not to say scandalous, as this sort of Processions: It seem’d as if they had been resolv’d to turn the most sacred thing in the World into Ridicule: The Subject of the Procession was no less than the Sufferings and Death of our Saviour; but the whole was represented in so burlesque a manner, that really I am surpriz’d, why a Court of Inquisition, which very often sentences People to be burnt for imaginary Crimes, does not severely punish those that are Partakers at such Festivals: In the Procession which I saw, our Saviour was represented as big as the Life in various Attitudes: In one Part of it he was exhibited on Mount Calvary, clad in a Night-Gown of purple Taffeta, praying to his Father to remove the Cup from him, which was reach’d forth to him by a little Angel, that was fasten’d only by a Wire, that it might look as if it hover’d in the Air: Afterwards other Persons came with the Image of our Saviour bound to a Cross, and as big as the Life, having on his Head not a Crown of Thorns, but a long natural Perriwig well powder’d, and adorn’d with a Knot of colour’d Ribbons: In short, every Circumstance of the Suffering and Death of Jesus Christ was represented to the Life, and in such Postures as were more comical some than others: Every Image was guarded by 4, 6, or 8 Men, arm’d cap-a-pie, and bearing Halberds in their Hands: Between every Image march’d the Clergy, and the several Orders of Friars: At the Head of the Procession there walk’d Men who were cover’d all over with black Cloth, so that ’twas not possible to see so much as their Faces, there being only a little Hole made in the Garment for them to see and breathe thro’, tho’ they also made Use of it to blow a sort of Horns, very much like those of Sow-Gelders. They had Hats upon their Heads, with high Crowns like Sugar-Loaves: This sable Company was follow’d by other Men, and by little Boys, stark naked from the Head to the Waist, whose Bodies were twin’d about with Straw-Bands, and their Arms tied to a Piece of Wood, which oblig’d them to hold them extended, as if they had been fasten’d to a Cross: There was also a Company of Flagellant Friars, but they did not presume to come in Sight of the King, and therefore they stay’d and join’d in the Procession, as it came back from Buen Retiro.

There were Processions also in the same Taste during the Easter Week, when the Holy Sacrament was carry’d to the Sick: The Streets and Balconies were on this Occasion hung with Tapistry: The Sacrament, which was carry’d under a Canopy, was preceded by a great Number of Priests and Friars, who had all Wax-Tapers in their Hands: There was also a numerous Symphony, and a great many Dancers, in Masks of several Sorts, leaping and playing Gambols with Castanets snapping in their Hands: And in this manner they danc’d before the Holy Sacrament, and continued it even in the Church, till such time as the Benediction was pronounc’d.

I speak to you of these Ceremonies, Madame, as one that saw them with my own Eyes: I had a Description given to me of them before, which was pretty much like it, but I took all that had been told me as pure Calumny, invented to run down the Worship which the Church of Rome pays to the greatest of our Mysteries; the rather, because they, that had given me the Account of it, were Calvinists: I was willing to be an Eye-Witness myself of every thing which I had been assur’d was observ’d in the Ceremonial of the Spanish Church: For this Reason I attended all these Processions with the greatest Eagerness that could be, and was really scandaliz’d to see that verify’d which I had only imagin’d to be the Inventions of the Enemies of the Church of Rome.

’Tis such unpleasant Walking in the Streets of Madrid, that I question whether that might not make me the more out of Temper with those Superstitions: For this, tho’ a very fine City, and adorn’d with Squares, in which there are noble Fountains, and tho’ it has Streets moreover which are very spacious, strait and lightsome, ’tis nevertheless so very nasty, that there are few Towns like it, which are ever so little govern’d: From all the Houses they throw out a great deal of Ordure, which, they pretend, wastes away in one Night’s Time, the Air of Madrid is so corrosive: Yet I experienc’d the contrary, and was terribly annoy’d with the Stench of it: But for all this, the daily Nuisance of the Streets of Madrid is nothing in comparison of what one is forc’d to suffer upon the Days of Solemnity; for on such Days the Streets are generally clean’d, and then all the Soil being put in Motion, ’tis hardly possible to bear it, especially in a dry Season, when the whole being reduc’d into fine Dust, the very Air we breathe is tainted with it, and it penetrates every thing that one eats: I heard an Italian Physician say, he was sure that ’twas scarce possible for a Foreigner, be he ever so circumspect and retir’d, to spend Three or Four Years at Madrid without being attack’d with a Distemper which we look upon with Horror; but the Spaniards are not at all frighten’d at it, for they say, that in many Families ’tis hereditary. The Doctor said, that every thing they breath’d, eat or drank, was poison’d by the Nastiness of Madrid.

What can be the Reason why the People are so very slovenly I can’t imagine, for there are considerable Sums distributed every Year to keep the Streets clean: Perhaps it may be only owing to the Sloth of the Spaniards, for I don’t know a Nation upon Earth that is so much in Love with Idleness; and I am certain, that if they inhabited a Soil not so fruitful as their’s is, they would soon die with Hunger: In the Winter they delight to spend their Time in basking in the Sun: In the Summer they sleep all Day long, or else drink Ice-Waters, and they reserve their Walks for the Night: The Country-People, who in all other Parts are so inur’d to Labour, are as idle in Spain as the Town’s-People: They can hardly be said to till the Ground, for they only scrape away the Surface of it, and then scatter their Seed: Yet ’tis surprizing, that every thing comes up here as well as in a Country that is better cultivated.

The Spaniards being too indolent for Exercises that require any Labour, delight most of all in Walking, and in frequenting the Play-house, where they are sure of meeting with what is most diverting at Madrid: Yet I can assure you, there is nothing so lamentable as the Spanish Representations, and the Place where they are exhibited is horrible: ’Tis very dark, and over the Benches which are plac’d in Form of an Amphitheatre, are the Boxes for the Ladies, who look thro’ Grates. The Theatre is made after the manner of Rome, being a Row of Portico’s, that are screen’d by Curtains, thro’ which the Comedians enter upon the Stage: The whole is very indifferently lighted; but that which disgusted me more than any thing, was a Common-Sewer, of which I was sensible as soon as I enter’d the House, but could not presently discover where it was for Want of Light: It runs precisely under the middle of the Pit, and the Stench of it is intolerable. The Actors are very ill dress’d, and for the Generality very ill favour’d, or ill shap’d: The Actresses are more tolerable, but not much: The Plays are hardly better than those who perform them; yet the Spaniards say, they are excellent Pieces. What most of all diverted me was their Dances between the Acts, than which it would be difficult to meet with any thing more ridiculous: Most of their Theatrical Performances are sacred Pieces, in which even the Mysteries of our Religion bear a Part: A Friend of mine actually assured me, that he saw the Holy Sacrament administer’d at it to a pretended sick Person, which, if true, I can’t imagine how the Inquisition, that is so severe in other respects, can tolerate such Abuses.

Now I am speaking of the Inquisition, I was an Eye-Witness of the Severity of this Tribunal while I was in Spain: For not many Days after my Arrival at Madrid, I saw several Persons burnt who were convicted of Judaism: Among those poor unhappy Sufferers was a young Woman of about 18 or 20 Years of Age, the beautifullest that I saw in Spain: She went to her Execution with Joy imprinted on her Countenance, and dy’d with the Courage for which our Martyrs are so celebrated: Some time after this Execution the Inquisition made a great Search all over Spain: Above 40 Persons were taken up in one Night at Madrid, and among the rest one Peralte, a famous Physician, who seem’d to have been fated by his Star to die by the Inquisition: His Mother, who was their Prisoner when she was deliver’d of him, was burnt soon after her Lying-in: Young Peralte was brought up in the Catholic Religion, but at 30 Years of Age he was accus’d, and convicted of Judaism: His Punishment for this time was only Three Years Imprisonment, but at length he was apprehended a second time, and after I left Madrid, I heard the poor Wretch was burnt there; in which the Prayers of his Mother were answer’d, for I was assur’d, that when this Woman mounted her Funeral Pile, she pray’d that her Son might one Day or other die the same Death: I was very glad that I was not at Madrid at the time of this Peralte’s Execution, for I had some Knowledge of him, and tho’ he was really a Bigot to Judaism, I thought him one of the civillest Men in the World.

I did not set out from Madrid to join my Regiment, but went a quite different Way, in order to touch some Money which I did not know how to come at in Spain: And that I did not, was surely no Fault of mine, for I don’t believe that ever any Courtier haunted Levees with so much Assiduity as I did, not only those of the King and Queen, but even the Father Confessor’s Levee, whose Protection alone would have done my Business, if he would but have honour’d me with it: I was therefore every Day either in the King’s Antichamber, or in the Reverend Father’s, if not in both; and I follow’d the Court to all the Pleasure-houses about Madrid: I saw the Escurial, a stately Building, which Philip II. caus’d to be erected in Memory of the Victory he gain’d over the French near St. Quentin: ’Tis impossible to see a finer Structure than this is. Philip II. intended at first to build only a Church and a Convent here, but afterwards he thought of having a Mansion here for himself, which is a perfect one of the kind: The Escurial is the Place where the Kings of Spain are bury’d: The Vault in which their Bodies are deposited is a Master-piece of Architecture; every Place here shines with Gold and precious Stones.

Philip V. was at this time building a Palace, now call’d St. Ildephonso, the Plan of which I thought was magnificent: The Situation of it was very advantageous, and it was to be furnish’d with noble Gardens.

The Pleasure-house which I most frequented while I was in Spain is Aranjuez, situate Seven Leagues from Madrid, on the Banks of the Tagus, which runs round all its Gardens: The Neighbourhood of it is very magnificent: Charles V. caus’d Avenues to be made to it, which are now in their full Beauty: ’Twas at Aranjuez that I determin’d at last to take my Leave of his Majesty; for seeing there was no Possibility of getting any thing, I resolv’d to go to Holland, and from thence to Germany, in order to settle some Family Affairs: I thought once too I should not have had Leave to be gone, for the King did not seem inclinable to grant it: He was somewhat scrupulous upon this head, for fear I should change my Religion, till Father Daubanton, who was not so delicate in things of this Nature, said two Words to his Majesty, and then he consented to let me go: This was the only Obligation I ever receiv’d from that Reverend Father: When I took my Leave of the King, he order’d me to return as soon as possible, which I promis’d, and really design’d; but Fortune, which always thwarted my Undertakings, made me steer a quite contrary Course. Mr. Stanhope, who was always as generous to me as possible, was also very serviceable to me at my Departure, for he lent me 40 Pistoles for my Journey.

I set out from Madrid in Company with a Nephew of M. de Seissan, who was going to see his Uncle at Bilbao: The Name of this young Gentleman was the Baron D’V——: It was not long before I had cause to repent of having taken such a Companion with me; for he was one of those young Officers who are always ready to clap their Hands on their Swords for the least thing in the World: He was moreover so hasty, or rather so stupid, that he never took time to hear what was said to him, for which Reason he very often imagin’d, that he was insulted when People had been at the Expence of paying him a Compliment: This, Madame, is a Part of the Character of the Spark with whom it was my Destiny to travel: He was so apt to enter into Conversation with every body he met upon the Road, that it had like to have cost us dear on the first Day of our setting out; for as we were travelling in the midst of a pretty thick sort of a Forest, I perceiv’d at a Distance Four Men well arm’d, advancing towards us in the main Road. As we could not avoid passing between them, I advis’d my Companion to be ready with his Pistols: Those Gentlemen seeing us well prepar’d, let us pass, but as we both took them for Frenchmen, the Baron D’V—— would needs stop our Chaise to enter into Discourse with them, and asked them who they were: They made Answer that they were French Officers, who had fled their Country for an Affair of Honour: They asked in their Turn what News from Madrid; during which I observ’d that they were coming a little too near our Chaise, whereupon I broke off the Discourse, by ordering the Postilion to proceed with all the Haste possible, because we had Business: At the same time the pretended Officers doubled their Pace in order to keep up with us; but by good Luck for us we discovered from a little Eminence a Convoy of about 40 Mules, and several Persons on Horseback that were coming our Way: Our Pursuers no sooner perceiv’d them, but they turn’d about their Horses, and rode off with such Speed, as confirm’d me in my private Suspicion, that we had been talking with Highwaymen; which soon after appear’d to be past all Doubt by our meeting with several Alguasils or Messengers that were scouring the Country in quest of Four Men, who we could easily guess by the Description they gave of them must be the same that we had like to have been embroil’d with.

Upon the second Day’s Journey my Companion and I had some Words together about paying our Quota’s: As I was the Caterer, and in all my Life-time never car’d to pinch my Belly, the Baron thought that I was not frugal enough, and refus’d at first to pay his Shot. However, he comply’d at last, but, as the Expence always run in his Head, he never gave me one kind Look all the Way, and even affected not to speak to me: For my own Part, when I saw him in such a moody Disposition, I chose to be as silent as he, and since I could do nothing better, I fell quietly asleep, and ere I awak’d we had gone a good way: My Fellow-Traveller never open’d his Lips till we came to Burgos.

Burgos is the Capital of Old Castile, and was formerly the Seat of the Kings of Spain: It has nothing remarkable but a very great Square, surrounded with Houses of an exact Uniformity, supported by Pillars, which form a Gallery round the Square. The Cathedral Church is a magnificent Structure, but intirely in the Gothic Taste.

Near Burgos is a very numerous Abby of Nuns of Quality, who as well as all the Convents of Spain have considerable Revenues: The Country from Burgos to Vittoria is finer and better cultivated than in New Castile, and the Villages seem more populous: I saw Peasants there so active to what the Spaniards generally are, that I thought myself in another World.

Vittoria is a trading Town, situate in a fertile Plain, full of Villages: The Streets are very narrow, and the Houses, which are all of Timber, project in such a manner over the Streets, that opposite Neighbours may almost shake Hands from one Side of the Way to the other, which makes the Streets very darksome. This was the City, to which the Queen Mary-Louisa of Savoy retir’d with her Children and the Treasures of the Crown, when the Archduke Charles the present Emperor, after the Battle of Saragossa advanc’d towards Madrid, and thereby oblig’d King Philip to quit Spain.

We lodg’d at the Post-house, where we found much better Accommodation than we had yet met with any where in Spain: But when we came to pay, behold another new Scene! for my Part, I pay’d my Share without grumbling, because I always observ’d, that make never so many Words it must come to that at last: Therefore, after having given what they told me was my Part of the Reckoning, I stay’d but a little while in my Chamber, to see if I had left nothing behind me, when all on a sudden I heard a great Noise in the Yard, upon which putting my Head out of the Window, I was very much astonish’d to see my Baron pulling the Coifs of the Landlady and Three or Four Maid-Servants, who were pommelling him to some Tune. I ran down Stairs ready to break my Neck, in order to rescue him out of the Clutches of those Termagants, and ’twas well I did, for the Landlady had snatch’d up a great Kitchen-Knife, with which she was going to run at him when I parted them, and with some Money the Landlady was pacify’d: What gave Occasion to the Quarrel was the Baron’s Refusal to pay what was demanded of him, and his pretending to go away without leaving any Money: The Landlady, who was not to be jested with, had seiz’d him by the Collar, and he, in order to get rid of her, gave her a Slap in the Face; and the Landlady insisted absolutely upon Satisfaction for the Affront she had receiv’d; but at last, after a great deal of Clamour, they let us go.

At Vittoria we quitted our Chaise and took Horses, because of the bad Roads we were to go thro’ to Bilbao, in a Country abounding with Hills and Woods, which are the Shelter of Robbers: We alighted at a Cabaret, which was a lonely House in the midst of a Wood, and were quickly surrounded by 7 or 8 arm’d Men, who really had the Appearance of Ruffians: They ask’d us if we were Officers, and if we had no others in our Company: I had Presence of Mind enough to tell them, that we had left a Company of Horsemen just behind, whom we expected every Minute at that same Cabaret, and accordingly I order’d the proper Quantity of Hay to be got ready for the Horses: I know not whether this News frighten’d them; however, they soon left us, and rode farther into the Wood: We presently remounted our Horses, and proceeded on our Journey: About a League from the Cabaret we came to one of the highest Mountains that I had ever seen in my Life: As it was very steep, winding Roads were cut out to ascend it, wide enough for Two laden Mules to go abreast. At the Foot of this Hill was a charming Valley, which, after having travell’d Three or Four Leagues in it, carry’d us to Bilbao: This Valley is water’d by a River, the Banks of which are lin’d with Vines and several other Sorts of Trees: All this Country is extremely populous, so that one can’t go 200 Paces without coming to a House: Here is also a prodigious Number of Forges, and they cry up their Iron for the best in all Spain.

Bilbao is the Capital of Biscay, and the prettiest Town that I saw in Spain: Its Walks especially are very beautiful: This City carries on a great Trade in Wool with Holland, England and France, and there are commonly in its Harbour several Ships of these Three Nations. It was formerly a free Port, which tended very much to the flourishing of its Trade; but Philip V. suppress’d that Franchise, and establish’d a Custom-house, which occasion’d a very great Disturbance. The Country-People, who were those that signaliz’d themselves most for the Preservation of their Privileges, took Arms, and engag’d several of the Citizens to join them: These Rebels committed a Thousand Outrages, kill’d several People, and set Fire to the Houses of such as they suspected had any Concern in the Establishment of the Custom-house: However, the Insurrection was quickly suppress’d, the Authors of the Tumult were seiz’d, and several of the most mutinous were hang’d, which Examples of Justice had an Effect upon the Rabble; but, however, they were dealt with very gently, for this Tumult gave the Government a fair Handle to have depriv’d them of a great many most extraordinary Privileges, and such too, as were in some respect incompatible with the Good of the Public: For Instance, A Native of Biscay cannot be sentenc’d to Death for any Crime whatsoever except High-Treason and Heresy; all their other Crimes, how enormous soever, being only punishable by Imprisonment or the Galleys. Catalonia formerly enjoy’d the same Privileges, till it was depriv’d of them by Philip V. when he reduc’d that Province.

Near Bilbao on a very high Mountain is a miraculous Chapel, which has been mightily inrich’d by the frequent Pilgrimages that have been made to it for a long time past: But of every thing that I saw in it, nothing struck me more than the High Altar: ’Tis only of Wood indeed, without Painting or Gilding, but the Workmanship of it is surprizing, and it may be look’d upon as Art’s Master-piece; I have been told, that he, who made this curious Piece of Work, was accus’d of Judaism, and burnt for it, some time after he had finish’d it: But, in good Truth, the Inquisition ought to have pardon’d him, purely for his Ingenuity.

I stay’d longer at Bilbao than I expected: I was every Day in Hopes of finding some Vessel that was going to Holland; but at last being tir’d with waiting, I went on board a Merchant-Ship of Bilbao that was bound for London, by which means I had a Sight of England sooner than I expected: We had so fair a Wind during the whole Passage, that the Sixth Day after we set Sail, I found myself actually in London[29].

All the Places we pass’d by in the Way to this famous City form a Prospect beyond any thing whatsoever: Nothing can compare with the beautiful Scene in the Channel, to see the Multitude of Ships continually going up and down on one Side or the other: The noble Shores of the Thames, cover’d with magnificent Houses and beautiful Gardens, give a grand Idea of the Riches of England: I was pleas’d to see the noble Foundery of Cannon, Bombs and Bullets, and the Dock for the King’s Ships, whereof I saw several lying at Anchor, which were all stately Vessels, and worthy of so wealthy a Nation as the English. I was above all surpriz’d at the Bulk of one of those Men of War, which they told me was that the Admiral goes on board of when England sends him out to Sea. On the left Side of the Thames also, before one comes to London, we see a magnificent Building for the Invalid Sailors: And near this Hospital lie the King’s Yatchs, which serve to carry his Majesty and his Court over to Holland, when he repairs to his German Dominions: The King’s Yatch is very large, and richly carv’d and gilt: From this Place to London-Bridge is nothing to be seen but Ships and Boats continually coming and going, and both Sides of the River are lin’d with Ships at Anchor, which forms a magnificent Shew: I fancy that ’tis impossible for a Foreigner to behold the continual Motion upon this River without Amazement: I shot the famous Bridge of London, which, considering the Length of it, and the Tides of Flood and Ebb, to which it is expos’d, ought really to be reckon’d one of the principal Bridges of the World: The Breadth of it is by no means answerable to the Length, and what renders it still narrower is, the Houses and Shops built upon it, which are none of the best, and yield a bad Prospect.

I went ashore near Whitehall, which was formerly a magnificent Palace, and the Residence of the Kings of England, but had the Misfortune to be consum’d by Fire in the Reign of William III. and Mary: What remains of all this Palace is only one great Pavilion of very fine Architecture, which was formerly a Banquetting-house, and is now a Chapel. ’Twas at Whitehall that the unfortunate Charles I. was beheaded, and in the Remains of this Palace the Window is still to be seen, thro’ which that Prince pass’d to the Scaffold, that was erected over-against it.

The Palace of Whitehall faces St. James’s Park, which is the same to London as the Thuilleries are to Paris, tho’ the former is much more frequented than the latter; but that which takes off very much from the Pleasure of the Walks is, the Promiscuousness of the Company, Livery-Servants and the Mobility being suffer’d to walk here as well as Persons of Distinction: In the middle of this Park is a spacious noble Canal, which is a very great Ornament to it: The Walks are kept in good Order, and especially that call’d the Mall, which is the longest of all: On the Right Hand of this Walk going from Whitehall stands St. James’s Palace, which is now the ordinary Residence of the Monarchs of England: ’Tis a very ancient Building, which was formerly a Convent, and has still very much the Appearance of one; so that, were it not for the Guards about it, a Stranger would hardly imagine it to be the Palace of a Sovereign Prince: There are Two Entrances to it, one on St. James’s Side, and the other towards Whitehall, and at each there attends a Company of the Foot-Guards with a Pair of Colours, and of these there are Two that always stand Centry with their Swords drawn. The King of Great Britain’s Guard is the sprucest that I ever saw: They are all of a proper Size, but not Soldiers for mere Shew, as they are every where else, those who are admitted being oblig’d to bring Certificates of their Service: They are distinguish’d by the Terms of Life-Guards, the Grenadier-Guards, the Halberdiers and the Foot-Guards: The Life-Guards wear scarlet Cloth lac’d with Gold at all the Seams, and fac’d with blue: They are always booted when they are upon Guard, and dare not be seen without their Boots till they are reliev’d. The Habit of the Horse-Grenadiers is like that of the Life-Guards, but they wear Caps of Sky-blue Cloth, which have the Order of the Garter embroider’d on the Front with Gold and Silver. The Habit of the Halberdiers is somewhat uncommon: They are dress’d after the antique manner in scarlet, with a Lace in the King’s Livery, which is of blue Velvet with a broad Gold Lace in the middle; and they wear Caps of black Velvet, adorn’d with white Feathers: The Foot-Guards have red Cloaths with blue Facings: This, Madame, was what I observ’d when I made my Entrance into London.

I steer’d my Course to St. Anne’s Quarter, where I had a Direction to some honest French Refugees: After I had rested a few Days, I took some Measures to make my Appearance at Court, but without Success: The King and his German Court had been so prejudic’d against me by Madamoiselle de Pollnitz, that ’twas impossible for me to obtain an Audience of his Majesty. The Princess of Wales was concern’d at my Situation, and so good as to make me a Present, but the Germans who were at Court were, like their Master, shy of me, so that I was fain to content myself with keeping no Company but the English, of whom I met with several that I had seen in France, and with whom I renew’d my Acquaintance: They us’d me with all the Civility imaginable, and took Care to carry me to the several Quarters of London, where there was any thing worth seeing: They first shew’d me St. Paul’s Cathedral, which, next to St. Peter’s at Rome, is the biggest and the most magnificent Church in Europe: It was begun after the great Fire of London, in the Reign of Charles II. and not finish’d till the Reign of Queen Anne: The Outside of the Structure is as magnificent as the Inside: The first thing that presents itself is the Statue of Queen Anne on the right Side of the West-Entrance, which is the Front: She is represented standing upright, as big as the Life, dress’d in the Royal Robes, with a Sceptre in one Hand, and a Globe in the other: Both the Statue and the Pedestal on which it is plac’d are of Marble: But I did not think this Monument answerable to what might have been expected from a Nation so famous as the English for their elegant Taste in the Arts and Sciences: Nor did I judge more favourably of some other Pieces of Sculpture in the Inside of St. Paul’s Church, which did not seem to be the Performances of Masters. I thought the Choir by much too small, considering the Bigness of the Nave: The Choir is separated from the Body of the Church by a Balustrade of Wood, resembling a Gate, over which the Organs are plac’d to a disadvantagious View, owing, as I take it, to the Chasms on the Sides: Opposite to the Entrance of the Choir is the Communion-table, fenc’d round with a Balustrade and a Form whereon the Communicants kneel: At the Right Hand of this Table is the Seat of the Archbishop of Canterbury, which is rais’d some Steps above the Ground; and over it is a Canopy, like to those of the Catholic Bishops: All round the Choir are little Pews or Stalls like the Boxes in a Play-house, and there the Magistrates usually sit, when they come to the Church in a Body: The Preacher’s Pulpit, which is plac’d in the middle of the Choir, is a plain Piece of Work of Wallnut-Wood, and of an octogon Figure, so contriv’d, that one does not see the Stairs by which the Preacher goes up to it: On the Right Hand of the Door of the Choir is a Canopy, and a Seat like to that of the Archbishop of Canterbury, which is for the Bishop of London.

From St. Paul’s I went to see Westminster-Abbey, which being in a Part of the Town at a good Distance from St. Paul’s, oblig’d me to take a Hackney-Coach: These Vehicles are very common at London; but being made without a Spring, are intolerably uneasy: However, they are of excellent Service to rid a great deal of Ground in a little time; for the Horses, which are very good, gallop for most Part, but the Pavement they run upon being the worst in Europe, it gives terrible Shocks to those who make Use of this Equipage, as I experienc’d in my Jaunt to the Abbey of Westminster. This is the Church in which the Kings of England are consecrated and interr’d: ’Tis a very ancient Pile, without any other Beauty but its Bulk: There is a good Number of Chapels within it, in which are the Tombs of several Kings, Queens, and even of private Persons; but of these there are few worthy of Remark: ’Twas in this Church I saw that call’d St. Edward’s Chair, which is of Wood, without any Ornament; and they say, it is the Chair which that Saint made Use of: The Kings are seated in it at the time of their Coronation: On one Side of this Chair is a Press, wherein is preserv’d in Waxwork the Effigy of General Monk, who, after the Death of Cromwell, restor’d Charles II. to the Throne of his Ancestors. In a Chapel hard by I was shewn another Statue in Waxwork, which represents Charles II. himself as big as the Life, dress’d in his Robes as Knight of the Garter: In the same Chapel I also saw the Waxwork Statue of the Duchess of Richmond, in her Habit as Duchess.

In this Church I met With an English Gentleman, an old Friend of mine, who carry’d me to the Parliament-house, where the King was expected that very Day, to put an End to that Session: And really I had not been long there before I saw the King enter in his royal Robes, and the Crown upon his Head: As I was inform’d his Stay there would be short, I went out, and plac’d myself in his Passage, that I might see his Retinue: I saw him go into his Coach, drawn by Eight Horses, attended by his Horse-Guards, and preceded by another Coach, in which sate the principal Officers of the Crown: The King of England never rides with this Attendance, but when he goes to meet his Parliament; for he is generally carry’d in a Sedan, with Six Footmen walking before, and Six Halberdiers, or Yeomen of the Guard, by the Sides of the Chair; while the Officers that are in Waiting commonly follow his Majesty in Coaches, drawn each by a Pair of Horses: The Prince and Princess of Wales are attended, when they go out, much in the same manner: I observ’d a Custom among the Livery-Servants of the King and their Royal Highnesses, which I saw at no other Court, viz. That when they are in Waiting, they wear, instead of a Hat, plain Caps of black Velvet, made like the Caps of Running-Footmen.

After I had seen the King pass by, I went and din’d with my Lord ——, whose Brother I had seen in Spain: There I spent the Afternoon, and at Night he carry’d me to the Opera, where I was highly pleas’d, not only with the Performers, who were the best Voices in Europe, but with the Orchestre, which could not be finer nor better fill’d; yet, for all that, I don’t think it comes up to the Opera at Paris; for this at London is quite destitute of Dances, or at least when there are any, they are so ill executed, that they are intolerable to Persons of a nice Taste: The Stage-Dresses are indeed much richer than those of the French Actors; but then they are not of that clever Fancy, which the French alone may boast to be their peculiar Perfection: The English Stage has another Defect, and that is, the extreme Want of Performers, for they know nothing of Chorus’s, and when the Scene demands the Appearance of any Retinue, ’tis generally compos’d of People that they pick up where they can get them; for which Reason they all look very silly and confus’d: The Place where the Boxes are, is in a manner round: ’Tis small, but very lofty, and I thought the Seats very well laid out: The whole Company sits down, even those in the Pit, in which there are Benches that form an Amphitheatre, which is not very high, but almost of a circular Figure, so that every body faces the Stage: This Place is so well lighted with Wax-Candles, that it dazzles one’s Eyes, which is a very great Diminution to the Lustre of the Theatre: The King, who was at the Opera when I was there, sate in a Box on the Right Side of the Stage, without any Distinction, and convers’d all the time with Three Ladies that were in his Box.

Some Days after this I went to the English Comedy: I shall say nothing of the Play that was acted there, because, as I did not understand the Language, I could only judge of it from the Applause that was given to it: The Actors seem’d to be excellent, at least, if I might judge, by their Gesture and Carriage, so that it would be a difficult Matter to find any that appear to better Advantage.

The little Prospect I had of obtaining any Employment at the Court of England, and the visible Decay of my Finances, forc’d me to think of departing very soon: Therefore, without Loss of Time, I made my Tours about the City of London, in order to see what was most worthy of Remark: I found very fine Courts, and more Squares than in any other City I ever saw, which would have been more magnificent, if they had not been spoil’d by inclosing them with wooden Pales, to convert the Ground within into Gardens. The Houses are commonly very small, most of them have no Courts before them, and there are few that have Gardens: But I must except a good many Hotels or Palaces, that are very magnificent; such as the Duke of Montague’s House, which is built in an exquisite Taste: The Court before it is very large and beautiful; and the Garden perfectly answers the Beauty of the Building: The Stair-case is worth seeing by those of the nicest Skill: The Ceiling represents Phaeton asking Leave of the Sun to drive his Chariot, and the Fall of Phaeton is describ’d at the Entrance of the Saloon, just at the Top of the Stair-case: The Apartments on each Side of this Saloon are also very beautiful, and most richly furnish’d.

I went afterwards to see my Lord Marlborough’s House, which is very magnificent, and full of Pictures, done by the most able Hands, whereof the greatest Number was by Vandyke: After having in like manner taken a View of several other great Houses, of which I don’t undertake to give a Description, I was shew’d a Column, which in my Opinion far surpass’d the famous Pillar of Trajan: ’Twas the Monument, erected in Memory of the terrible Fire that happen’d at London, soon after the Restoration of Charles II. to the Throne of England: ’Tis pity but this Pillar had more Room to stand in, it being pent up in a pretty close Nook, which is the very Spot where the Fire first broke out: There’s a Latin Inscription upon it, shewing all the Circumstances of that sad Misfortune: In the Pedestal of this Monument is a Door, that opens to Stairs cut out in the Pillar, by which People ascend to the Top of it; and in all London there is not a Place from whence there is a more extensive Prospect of the Country, except it be the Cupola of St. Paul’s.

Not far from this Monument is that Structure which is call’d the Royal Exchange, where the Merchants meet every Week-day from Noon till Two o’clock: ’Tis a very large quadrangular Building, and its principal Front is very magnificent: The Square, where the Merchants meet, is encompass’d with a fine Gallery, supported by great Arches of beautiful Architecture: In the middle of it is a Marble Statue of Charles II. who is represented standing upright, and dress’d in his Royal Robes: In certain Niches over the Arches there are the Statues of the Kings and Queens of England, which are all of Stone, and so imperfectly done, that they are a Blemish, rather than an Ornament to the Exchange: Near this Building is another Statue of Charles II. on Horseback, which is a Monument of white Marble, but so ill perform’d, that I believe it would have been better if it had never been put up: The Equestrian Statue of Charles I. erected betwixt the Haymarket and Whitehall, which is all of Brass, is much better executed: Good Judges particularly admire the Horse, which is one of the boldest Pieces that is to be seen, and was cast by the same Workman that cast the Horse of Henry IV. at Paris; but the Statue of the King was done by another Hand: Cromwell, who had no Respect for the Blood of his Sovereign, did not care to have his Statue preserv’d, but caus’d it to be pull’d down, and set to Sale: A Founder, that was a zealous Royalist, purchas’d it, on Pretence that he would melt it down, but, as soon as he had it brought Home, he caus’d it to be bury’d under Ground, where it remain’d till Charles II. was restor’d to the Throne, and then he made a Present of it to that Prince, who caus’d it to be erected on that Pedestal of white Marble which we now see.

A little Distance from the Exchange is the famous Tower of London, which is of the same Use to this City as the Bastille is to Paris, with this Difference however, that ’tis not so easy for a King of England to store it, as it is for a King of France to fill the Bastille: This Tower is properly speaking a Citadel, form’d of a Number of Houses, surrounded with Fortifications: Here is the Arsenal, which is the best furnish’d, and kept in the best Condition of any in Europe: In this Tower are also preserv’d the Ornaments and Treasury of the Crown: The principal Pieces are 1. The Crown of Edward the Confessor, with which the Kings of England are crown’d: ’Tis of solid Gold, set with Diamonds and other precious Stones. 2. The Crown of State, which the King wears when he meets the Parliament: It has a remarkable Pearl, an Emerald, and a Ruby upon it, so large, that the Value of them is not to be estimated: After I had seen this Crown, I was shew’d that which serv’d for the Coronation of Q. Mary, the Daughter of James II. ’Tis cover’d all over with Diamonds, admirable both for their Size and Beauty: Then I saw the Prince of Wales’s Crown, which is all over plain, without any Jewels; and besides these, I had the Sight of many other rich Things, of which I don’t pretend to give you the Particulars: I will only add, that the Method of exposing them to View is very well contriv’d, to prevent their being stole; for they are only seen thro’ a large Iron Grate, so strong, that it would be a hard Matter to force it.

After I had seen the Treasury, I was carry’d into another Room, where I saw all the Statues of the Kings of England, from William the Conqueror, Duke of Normandy, to James II. They are represented in Armour, and on Horseback, but the whole is of Wood colour’d, which makes them frightful Objects.

As you might happen to think me tedious if I were to be more particular, I chuse to pass over many things in Silence, and shall only say a Word or two of the Character of the English People: I thought Englishmen were much the same in their own Country as the French are out of France, that is to say, haughty, scornful, and such as think nothing good enough; and in like manner they are when abroad, what the French are in their own Country, good-natur’d, civil and affable: Of all Nations I found the Italians were most esteem’d in England, the French and Germans being in some Degree hated: But their Hatred to the Germans is of no older Date than the Reign of the Elector of Hanover; for till then the English look’d upon us as if they neither lov’d nor envy’d us, but now they have a Notion, that the Money of England goes over to Germany; and seem to think, that we had no Coin, till they call’d the House of Hanover to govern them[30]. As to their Hatred of the French, ’tis of a longer standing, insomuch that it would be a difficult Task to determine the Age of it; and I am apt to think, it runs in their Blood; for the Antipathy extends even to the minutest Things; for Example, in the Article of Dress; when the French wear little Hats, the English wear theirs with monstrous broad Brims; and when they know that great Hats are worn in France, they reduce the Brims of theirs till they are as much too narrow; and ’tis the very same case with regard to the rest of their Dress; so that I am persuaded, the English would soon quit any Fashion, were it ever so becoming and elegant, if once the French thought fit to follow it[31]. But how changeable soever they are in their Fashions, as well as the French, yet they have not the Fancy which the latter are remarkable for, and know not how to dress to Advantage; for, in short, there’s not a People upon Earth that set themselves off so ill as the English do, and really they had need to be as well-shap’d as they are for the Generality, or their Dress would be insupportable.

The English Women are also perfectly well-shap’d, and are for most part pretty, and very agreeable Companions; but, like the Men, they han’t the Art of Dress; and tho’ they are always very neat in their Cloaths, yet they have such an odd way of putting them on, as if they endeavour’d to disfigure themselves: When they go out in a Deshabille, they commonly put on a Camblet Cloak as long as their Petticoats, which is clos’d before, and on each Side there is a Slit, thro’ which they put their Arms: They have withal a Hood of the same Stuff as the Cloak, which is tied under the Chin with a colour’d Ribbon[32]. Nor is this Dress unbecoming to the Sex, for ’tis very often us’d by the Citizens Wives and Daughters, and is also much worn among the gay Ladies, when they go upon Intrigues with their Lovers; at which time they repair thus rigg’d on board certain Wherries, that carry them to Houses of Entertainment design’d for such Interviews; the very Boats too seem to be made to the Purpose, being cover’d with scarlet Cloth, or very neat Stuffs, and the Watermen being us’d to the Business, manage it as well as the Gondoliers of Venice.

That amiable Freedom which reigns in England gives the People an Air of Gaiety that is to be met with no where else so universally: The Nobility, the Citizens, and the lower Rank of People have all their Recreations; and whereas in other Countries the Rich alone seem to have a Right to Pleasures, the English Nation has Diversions for all Classes; and the Mechanic, as well as his Lordship, knows how to make himself merry, when he has done his Day’s Work. The English are very much for Shows; Battles especially, of what nature soever, are an agreeable Amusement to them, and of these they have all Kinds: Sometimes they engage Bulls with other Beasts, and at other times they have Cock-fighting: You have undoubtedly heard talk, how these little Animals will fight: The Cocks of England are the best in the World for this Sport, that being a Species, of which there is not the like in other Countries: Their Bill is very long, and when they have once begun to fight, they battle it with such Fury, that one, if not both, is generally left dead upon the Spot. Before they are exposed in the Pit where they are to engage, little Spurs are fasten’d to their Feet, with which those Animals gall each other dextrously: The English, who are no indifferent Spectators of the Engagement, form themselves immediately into several Parties in Favour of the Combatants; and, according to the Custom of their Country, lay considerable Wagers; for, it must be observ’d, there is no Nation in the World so fond of laying Wagers as the English.

The Battles of Animals are not the only ones to be seen in England, there being very often Combats of Gladiators, when the Wretches for pitiful Lucre fight with one another at Swords, and very often wound each other cruelly: The English delight very much in this sort of Prize-fighting: They shout loud Applauses when either of the Two wounds his Antagonist, and when the Battle is over, the Two Combatants shake Hands, and make each other a low Bow, to shew they don’t bear one another any Malice: I can’t conceive how they find any Fellows to take up such an Exercise; the rather, because ’tis liable to very fatal Consequences; for they say, that by their Laws, he who wounds his Adversary, shall be at the Expence of curing him, and he that kills him, is to be hang’d without Mercy.

There’s another sort of Prize-fighters, who fight every Evening in the Summer in a Square near St. James’s, with no other Weapons but Quarter-staves, or wooden Swords, with which they break one another’s Ribs, or knock one another on the Head, and the Victor is generally regal’d by some or other of the Spectators. I have also seen, as I have been going over the Square, a pack of Wrestlers, that endeavour’d to throw one another down, and when one of the Two has tripp’d up his Adversary’s Heels, he politely gave him his Hand to help him up again: At all these Performances considerable Wagers are laid, as I have already had the Honour to tell you.

After having seen every thing at London worth a Stranger’s Curiosity, I was prevail’d on, before I left England, to go and take a View of the Royal Palaces in the Country: I saw Hampton Court and Windsor, which are Two magnificent Palaces, yet Trifles in comparison with the Royal Palaces of France: Kensington Palace pleas’d me well enough: ’Tis a House that formerly belong’d to an English Nobleman, of whom King William bought it, because ’twas so near London: They were making some Alterations at it when I was there: The King’s Apartment is very spacious, but not the most magnificent, and ’tis adorn’d with some Paintings by Vandyke, which are of uncommon Beauty; One of these Pictures represents King Charles I. on Horseback, and in another are his Queen, her Waiting-women and all her Children: I never saw any thing better done than these Two Pieces are. Kensington Gardens would be very fine for a private Person, but for a King, methinks I could wish them to be somewhat more magnificent.

Having finish’d my Travels in England, where I stay’d near a Month, with a View of the Royal Palaces, I embark’d for Holland; but had not a quick Passage, by reason of a Calm, that surpriz’d us at Sea, so that we could neither go forwards nor backwards: At length, in Five Days after we had left London, we arriv’d in the Mouth of the Maese, where we bore a hard Gale of Wind, which blew all Night: Next Day we got safe into the Maese, and by Noon came to Rotterdam, from whence I set out the same Day for the Hague.

As soon as I arriv’d there I thought of renewing my Wardrobe, and refitting my Equipage. Tho’ all this would not come to a great deal, yet being then very short of Money, I was forc’d to go a borrowing: I therefore gave Letters of Attorny to my Creditors, to receive an Annuity which came to me from my Family, and of which I shar’d one Third with my Brother, and Madamoiselle de Pollnitz. As my Brother and I were Minors when my Grandmother left us that Annuity, Madamoiselle de Pollnitz being the eldest of the Family, qualify’d herself to receive it: She was first paid the whole upon her own Receipts, but afterwards she gave each of us our Share, which she all along continued to do ever since I was of Age: My Creditors were glad to accept of the Powers which I delegated to them, but, for their greater Security, they desir’d me to make myself sure and certain that Madamoiselle de Pollnitz would punctually pay them: I wrote immediately, and desir’d them to write to her likewise; but as my good Cousin was never a hearty Friend to me, she thought fit to thwart me in the Expedient I had contriv’d to raise Money: Instead of doing me the Honour to write me an Answer, she wrote to my Creditors, to caution them to be upon their Guard; that I only meant to cheat them, that I had no Share in any such Annuity, and that every Word I had told them about it was a Lye. My Creditors were somewhat startled at this Intelligence, and imagin’d that they had to do with a Knave, who only intended to bilk them, and that they should be left without Remedy if I once gave them the Slip: I did every thing on my Part to make them easy; I told them that Madamoiselle de Pollnitz had conceal’d the Truth from them, on Purpose to involve me in Trouble; and that I would engage she should retract the Letters she had sent them: Besides this, I offer’d to pay them out of the Income of my own Estate: But all I could say to them signify’d nothing; their Jealousy had taken deep Root, and they resolv’d, in order to secure their Debts, to arrest me: And so they actually did; for one Sunday Morning I was accosted by some ill-favour’d Companions, who desir’d me to remove with a good Grace to the Prisons at the Hague, if I did not like to be carry’d thither by Force. I was a little confounded at such a Visit, and saw that I must instantly lose my Liberty, and perhaps for a long time too, when Madame Pyll, a Tradeswoman at the Hague, to whom I was already indebted, was so kind as to advance me what was necessary to pay my Creditors; by which means I got out of the Clutches of those impertinent Fellows.

Not many Days after this happen’d, other Creditors being inform’d of it, imagin’d that the only infallible Method for their being paid was, to take the same Course with me, and they also resolv’d to arrest me: Accordingly, Notice was brought to me at 6 o’Clock in the Morning, that ’twas apprehended there was a Design form’d against me, and that some Serjeants were sauntring about to nab me: I had my Breeches on indeed, but nothing more than a Night-gown; and not caring to take the Trouble of dressing myself intirely, especially as I knew that there were not many People stirring at the Hague at that time, I thought it best to steal off in my Night-gown: I made my Escape to the House of my dear Madame Pyll: I could have wish’d this good Woman would have once more pacify’d those ravenous Hounds, but I had not the Assurance to mention it to her; and only desir’d she would give me Shelter for a little while, which she granted with Pleasure: But I was soon under a Necessity of shifting my Quarters, for the Catch-Polls being inform’d where I was harbour’d, were actually coming to take me, when this honest Woman help’d me to slip out at the Back-door, and lent me a Cloak, in which having muffled myself up, I had nothing to think of but how to get away from the Hague: I put myself on board the Delft Passage-Boat, and went in quest of Texera, a rich Portuguese, who had a House half a League from the Hague. We were such good Friends, that I was persuaded he would not abandon me in the Situation he found me in: And indeed, with all the Generosity possible, he advanc’d me what Money I wanted, and had me conducted to Honslaerdyk, where I stay’d Two Days in the Castle: My Keeper happen’d to be one that was Waiting-woman to my late Mother, who did me all the Services she was capable of, and went and acquainted Pyll where I was; upon which she came to see me, and brought me my Cloaths: I then consider’d what I had to do next: I had a great mind to return to the Hague, to treat with the Creditors who prosecuted me; but considering, that perhaps as soon as I had made these easy, others would give me fresh Trouble, I resolv’d to go to Germany, where I should be nearer at hand to write to my Family for the settling of my Affairs; for I was still under a Prohibition to go to Berlin; tho’ why I was thus forbid to go to my own native Place, I knew not.

I went the Road to Aix la Chapelle, in Hopes that I should there find the Count de L——, to whom I had lent 400 Ducats 7 or 8 Years ago. He was then in the Service of the Elector Palatine, and I was assur’d that he was in waiting about Aix. The first Day I went to Dort, and from thence to Bois le Duc.

This is a pretty considerable Place in Dutch Brabant: ’Tis encompass’d all round with Marshes, and may easily be laid under Water for several Leagues round, which makes it one of the strongest Places in Europe: ’Twas Henry of Brabant that gave it the Name of Bois le Duc, or Bolduc, i. e. the Duke’s Wood, because he directed the Building of it in 1171, in the same Place where he caus’d a Wood to be cut down.

At Bois le Duc I went into the Diligence, which is the Name of the Stage-Coach that goes to Mastricht: I made an Acquaintance in it with an English Gentleman that was going to Aix la Chapelle, to make use of the Waters: He came directly from England, and being, as ’tis probable, over-burden’d with his Guineas, he was at every turn exclaiming against the Cheapness of every thing on this Side of the Water: But a little Adventure he was engag’d in at Mastricht alter’d his Opinion: He went out all alone the very Night we came thither, with a Design, he said, to take a little Walk about the Town; and in his Ramble he met with a very amiable young Creature upon the great Square, with whom he enter’d into a Conversation: After having parley’d with her some time, he offer’d to wait upon her to her Lodgings, and she was not so unsociable, but she accepted of his Proposal: My Englishman thought himself a happy Mortal, and the Damsel appear’d so amiable in his Eyes, that he begg’d her Permission when he was at her Quarters to treat her with some Refreshments: When they had empty’d some Bottles, and the Englishman was ready to take his Leave, he threw down a Guinea, and thought he paid full enough, but the Damsel demanded another: The Gentleman scrupled to give it, and insisted upon it with some Warmth, that a Guinea was sufficient in all Conscience to discharge the Expence he had put her to: No doubt he should have paid more Respect to such civil Company. The offended Damsel call’d the Landlady, who fell upon the poor Englishman like a mad Woman: These Two were join’d by a Third Fury, who all together pummell’d the Englishman soundly, tore his Cravat, and turn’d him out of Doors without so much as giving him his Perriwig: To complete his Misfortune, it rain’d as hard as it could pour, and the Night was so dark, that he could not see which way to steer his Course: He knew not who to ask for; and besides, he had forgot both the Inn, and the Name of the Street where we lodg’d: At last, being quite weary of running up and down the Streets so long, he took it into his Head to knock at every Door, from whence he met with no Return but hard Names: While he was rapping at one Door, he was surpriz’d by the Patroll, who carry’d him to the Watch-house: It was well for him that the Officer upon Guard was not an ill-natur’d Man, for he had the Patience to hear him give a very confus’d Description of the Inn, of which he had absolutely forgot the Name; and upon his saying that there were several other Inns in the same Street where his was, they guess’d pretty near where-abouts it was: Then the Officer lent him a Cloak, and having given him a Watchman to go along with him, they thundred at the Doors of several Inns, which not being the Inn that they wanted, there would certainly have been some Uproar, if it had not been for the Watchman that the Englishman had to attend him: At last, as they were still wandring about in quest of the Inn which neither of them knew any thing of, the Englishman’s Lacquey, who was seeking his Master, met him, and carried him to his Quarters: You must know, that this Adventure made it a very disagreeable Night to me; for being extremely tired, I went to Bed as soon as I had supp’d, and the Englishman being to lie in my Chamber, his Lacquey, who staid up there for him, disturb’d me sadly; for when he saw ’twas late, and that his Master was not return’d, he came every now-and-then to my Bed-side, and wak’d me to know what he should do; so that, to get rid of him, I advis’d him at last to turn out, and look for him. As soon as they came into the Room, I was forc’d to undergo the Penance of hearing the whole Story of his Adventure: The Lacquey was in a terrible Wrath with the honest People that had insulted his Master, and he propos’d to go out that Moment, and break open the Doors, and turn the House out of the Windows; but the Master having more Wit in his Anger, thought it best to bear his Disgrace with Patience, and to rest his Bones after so much Fatigue.

We set out next Day for Aix la Chapelle; but the Count de L—— whom I thought to have found there, was at that time in the Palatinate, and therefore having nothing to do at Aix, I took Leave of my Englishman, and proceeded in my Journey towards Cologne: As soon as I came thither, I fell ill of a Fever, nevertheless I push’d on, and was preparing to go up the Rhine, but when I came to Andernach, a little Town in the Dominions of Cologne, I found myself so ill, that I was absolutely oblig’d to stop: Mean time my Fever prov’d a continual one, and I was in a Place where I could not expect much Relief: The Mistress of the House where I was told me, that there was an able Physician some Leagues from Andernach, upon which I jogg’d on thither as well as I could, and in a Fortnight’s time my Fever left me: Some Days after this I propos’d going towards Mentz, but when I came to Coblentz, I found myself worse than ever, and not being willing to change my Doctor, I return’d down the Rhine, and went to spend another Fortnight with the Man that had cur’d me before: Nevertheless, my Distemper grew worse, and even affected my Mind so much, that I imagin’d I should never be cur’d where I was: I had withal conceiv’d such a mortal Aversion to my Doctor, that I could no longer bear the Sight of him; and fancy’d that a Physician of Cologne, whom I knew, was the only Man that could cure me, for which Reason I was wonderfully impatient to go to Cologne; and notwithstanding all the Arguments of my Doctor to convince me that in the Condition which I was then in it would be Death for me to undertake a Voyage, yet I embark’d in a Vessel, and went down the Rhine: When I arriv’d at Cologne, I put myself with Confidence under the Care of the Physician of whom I had such an Opinion, and after having taken his Drugs about Two Days, whether it was owing to their Virtue, or to the Force of my Imagination, the Fever visibly diminish’d, and at last quite left me.

When I was perfectly recover’d, I went up the Rhine again to Mentz, where I hop’d to have found my Cousins; but I was told, that they were at their Estate in Franconia: This unlucky Absence of theirs perplex’d me very much, and what to do now I could not tell: I chose to go to Zell, where my Brother liv’d, and by good Luck I met with a Coach that was going to Hanover: From Hanover I went to Zell, where I heard that my Brother was at Berlin, and I resolv’d to advance that way; but lest I might be known, instead of going to the Neighbourhood of Berlin, I repair’d to Leipsic, from whence I wrote to my Agent to know how Things went, and if there were any Hopes of settling my Affairs: He sent me Answer, that there was no Probability of it as long as my Estate remain’d under a Sequestration; that indeed a Loan of Money would enable me to obtain a Replevy by compounding with my Creditors; but that he did not see how it was possible to borrow any Money, unless Madamoiselle de Pollnitz, to whom my Estate was entail’d, would consent to it: He concluded with telling me, that he knew of no other Method to get me out of this Difficulty, than to obtain an Order from the King of Prussia. I knew as well as he, that such an Order was the most expeditious Method to bring me out of Trouble; but how could I obtain it, when I was not permitted so much as to appear at Court? However, I thought it my Duty to leave no Stone unturn’d this Bout for obtaining such Permission, tho’ I had been deny’d it several times. I resolv’d to implore the Protection of the Prince of Anhalt-Dessau, who had always given me Proofs of his Kindness, as had also the Princesses his Sisters.

I went therefore to Dessau, which is but Six Leagues from Leipsick: At that time none were there but the Princesses, for the Prince had been absent several Days, and was not expected till the Night following: I wrote to Madame the Duchess of Radzivil, the Eldest of the Princesses, to desire that she would stand my Friend with the Prince her Brother: This Princess was so good as to send me one of her Officers to assure me that she would do every thing in her Power to prevail on the Prince to protect me; and she even desir’d me to write a Letter to the Prince, which she promis’d me to deliver to him with her own Hands: I laid hold on the Princess’s kind Offer, sent her the Letter she desired of me, and as soon as the Prince was return’d, she had the Goodness to deliver it to him: I hop’d to carry all my Points after such a Recommendation; yet so far was I from seeing the Effect which I expected, that the Prince desir’d his Sister to engage me to make the best of my way out of Dessau, because if I staid there any longer, he should be oblig’d to put me under an Arrest: The Duchess, when she sent me this Message, was so kind as to sweeten it with one of the civillest Compliments that could be, and made me an Offer of Money, imagining, to be sure, that in the Condition I was in, I might have need of it: I most humbly thank’d her for all the Marks of Kindness with which she was pleas’d to honour me, and desir’d her to be assur’d, that I would that Instant pray Obedience to the Prince’s Orders: And indeed, as I knew that with this Prince Execution follow’d close at the Heels of his Menaces, I speedily made an Enquiry for a Coach to carry me to Barbi, which is the Residence of a Duke of Saxony of the Branch of Weissenfels, where I hop’d to meet with a Friend of mine, who was in that Prince’s Service; but ’twas impossible for me to find either Horse or Coach in all Dessau, for nobody would stir by reason of the Sacredness of the Day, it being the Fourth Sunday in Advent: Mean time, as I still dreaded the Prince’s Anger, I resolv’d to set out on Foot: I made a Man shoulder my Portmanteau, which was then all my Equipage, and went with him to a little Town in the Duchy of Magdebourg, where I took a Chaise that carry’d me to Barbi.

I there found the Friend that I wanted, who receiv’d me as well as I could wish: This was the late Baron de Chalisac whom you knew; but he did not fail to chide me a little, for letting my Affairs run into such Confusion; and advis’d me to go to my Brother, and concert proper Measures with him for the Advantage of both of us: He also lent me 40 Crowns for my Journey: I spent the Christmas-Holidays with him, during which he heard, that my Brother was return’d to Zell: I was very glad of this News, and next Day after the Holidays I set out to meet him: I found him in a very good Humour with me: He convinc’d me, that I had Reason to suspect my Steward, and advis’d me at the same time to turn him off, and to take his in his Room, whom he knew to be honest: I gave him full Power to examine my Steward’s Accompts, and he made it out as clear as the Sun at Noon-day, that I had been bubbled: My Brother, in order to oblige me thoroughly, help’d me to some Money, and moreover, put my Affairs in such a State, that my Creditors might not only be satisfy’d in a little time, but I had something left over-and-above to subsist me.

My Affairs being thus settled, I had nothing to think of now but which way to steer my Course, to the end it might be said at least, that I had some sort of Business or other: I could have lik’d the Service well enough, but there was no War, nor none like to be very soon: Moreover, I had paid my Court with so little Success to different Sovereigns, that indeed I was under no Temptation to enter the Lists again: I might indeed have return’d to Spain, where I had obtain’d an Employ, but what signify’d it, where the Salaries are not paid, and the Establishment obliges one to spend high? This Fluctuation of different Ideas puzzled me the more, because which way soever I look’d, I saw nothing but Difficulty, and not the least Glimpse of any other Condition that I could embrace: One Friend advis’d me to take Orders in the Church, which was a Proposition that I thought at first a little extraordinary; yet when I had seriously consider’d the Matter, I judg’d it would not be so wrong a Step as I imagin’d; that sooner or later I should not fail of having some Preferment: In a Word, a Number of temporal Motives gave Birth to a Project in my Mind, which ought only to have been the Effect of a Spiritual Call: I was advis’d first of all to make my Court to the Cardinal of Saxe, who was at Ratisbon: This Prince, who from a Lutheran turn’d Roman-Catholic, was very fond of new Converts.

I went therefore to find out his Eminency at Ratisbon: My Brother accompany’d me as far as Brunswick, where we stay’d some Days, after which he took Leave of me, and return’d to Zell; and I for my Part went to Barbi, to see the Baron de Chalisac to whom I gave an Account of the Settlement I had made with my Brother, and of my Resolution to think now of the main Chance: He was overjoy’d to find me in such a Disposition; and after I had spent a few Days with him, I proceeded to Zeitz, by the way of Leipsick.

You know that Zeitz is a Town which has always been the Appenage of a Branch of the Saxon Family: The last Duke that was in Possession of it marry’d a Princess of Brandenbourg, Sister of our late King. That Duke chang’d his Religion twice towards the Close of his Life: The first time he turn’d Catholic, in Imitation of his Brother the Cardinal of Saxe; and the second time he return’d to the Lutheran Religion, in which he had been educated: As he left but one Daughter, who was marry’d to Prince William of Hesse-Cassel, his Dominions ought to have fallen to the Cardinal, and to one of his Nephews; but they being both of them Catholics, are disinherited by virtue of an Article of the Treaty of Westphalia: Mean time the King of Poland, who is a Catholic, seiz’d them, and continues Master of them, so that those Dominions are govern’d by a Regency, which receives its Orders from Dresden: The King of Poland made an Accommodation with the Cardinal and the young Prince, by giving each of them a Sum of Money, and engaging moreover to pay the late Duke’s Debts.

From Zeitz I went to Hoff, the first Town in the Marquisate of Brandenbourg-Bareith, from whence I proceeded to Bareith, the Capital of the Margraviate of that Name, and from thence to Erlangen: Of both these Towns I shall have occasion to make Mention hereafter: From Erlangen I went to Nuremberg[33], which passes for the best built City in all Germany: The Houses are all very beautiful, lofty, and perfectly lightsome, and most of them are painted on the Outside, like those of Augsbourg: The Town-house, in which the Senate assembles, is a Structure remarkably beautiful, is very large, and completely well built: The principal Front is adorn’d by Three great Portico’s with Marble Pillars: The Inside is every whit answerable to the Magnificence of the Outside, there being very fine Rooms in it, adorn’d with noble Paintings.

The Territory of Nuremberg is considerable, there being several Towns and Villages depending on it: The Brandenbourg Family have had frequent Disputes with the Republic on account of some Lands, that they claim for their Appurtenances; upon which Blood has been spilt more than once; nay, in the Reign of the Emperor Frederic III. there was actually an open War upon that Occasion: At present Nuremberg is secure against any manner of Insult; it having good Ramparts, an Arsenal well furnish’d, and a numerous Garison.

After I had stay’d Two Days at Nuremberg, I set out for Aichstedt, which is the See of a Bishop, who is Prince of the Empire: I had the Honour of waiting on the then Bishop of the See, who was of the Family of the Barons of Knebel of Katzenellebogen, and a Prelate not only of a noble Extraction, but extraordinary Merit: Having a Letter of Recommendation to him, I desir’d Audience of him, and he granted it to me with great Marks of Distinction; for he sent me one of his Coaches, and gave me the most civil Reception in the World: Being at that time violently afflicted with the Gout, he was seated, and made me sit down likewise; and after a good deal of Discourse, he invited me to Supper: The Supper was attended by a Concert, which his Musicians came to perform in his Chamber: It was a very numerous Band, and perfectly well adapted: I made my Court to him for the Five or Six Days that I stay’d at Aichstedt, and when I went away, he made me a Present of a Gold Snuffbox, which weigh’d 25 Ducats: He took it out of a Cabinet that he shew’d me, in which I observ’d a great many very valuable Jewels, particularly a Diamond Cross, reckon’d worth between 5 and 600,000 Florins: This Prelate had moreover the Complaisance to defray my Expences at my Inn, so that when I came to call for the Reckoning, I was very much surpriz’d to find that I had been beholden to the Prince to clear it.

At my Departure from Aichstedt I took the direct Road to Ratisbon, which carry’d me thro’ Ingolstadt, a strong Place of Bavaria: It serv’d for the Residence of several Dukes of Bavaria, whose Castle is still to be seen, where lives the Governor, who is always a General Officer of the Elector’s Troops.

From Ingolstadt Half a Day’s Journey brought me to Ratisbon, an Imperial City of Bavaria, and a Suffragan Bishoprick of Saltzbourg: There I found the Cardinal of Saxe, who was come thither to preside at the Dyet, in quality of the Emperor’s Commissary: He had for his Adjunct the Baron de Kirchner, who had the Title of Joint Commissioner at the Dyet, and had the Care of all Affairs: This Post of Commissioner at the Dyet is the most honourable that the Emperor has in his Nomination; insomuch that a Commissioner does not yield Precedence to an Elector; and his very Instructions import, that if a King comes to Ratisbon, he must not yield him the Preference: The Cardinal of Lamberg, who was the Cardinal of Saxe’s Predecessor in the Post of Commissioner at the Dyet, had some Broil with the Electors, and with the Court of Vienna, because he gave way to the Duke of Lorrain: This Prince passing thro’ Ratisbon to take Possession of his Dominions, after the Treaty of Ryswick, sent Notice to the Cardinal of his Arrival, upon which he went immediately, and pay’d his Royal Highness a Visit, invited him to dine at his House, sent his Coaches for the Duke, and gave him the Right Hand upon all Occasions: Of this the Electors Envoys complain’d; but the Cardinal, not much intoxicated with his Dignity, made them Answer, That he thought it was a Deference which he ow’d to the Duke of Lorrain, not as a Sovereign Prince, but as the Emperor’s Nephew: He made Use of the same Argument at the Court of Vienna, where, tho’ for that one time only, his Conduct was approv’d.

This is not the only Prerogative enjoy’d by the Commissioner to the Dyet: He has a Right to have Guards, and is commonly serv’d by Gentlemen: When an Electoral Minister repairs to the Cardinal for Audience, he is receiv’d as he alights out of his Coach by Four Gentlemen, who conduct him to the Chamber of Audience; There’s a Guard-Room, in which there are 50 Soldiers, always drawn up in a Line with Muskets on their Shoulders: Next to this Room is the Chamber of Audience: When the Minister enters it, the Commissioner advances half way to meet him; They then sit down in Two Chairs of State, under the same Canopy; in such manner that the Commissioner is placed in the middle, and the Envoy’s almost over against him, but a little to one Side, so that it stands partly upon the Carpet, with the Back turn’d half way towards the Door. When the Audience is over, the Commissioner accompanies the Envoy half way out of the Chamber, from whence Four Gentlemen reconduct him to his Coach: The Envoys of the Princes are only receiv’d by Three Gentlemen. The Commissioner expects them in the Chamber of Audience standing, and leaning upon a Table, which is under a Canopy, with a Chair of State by his Side: When the Envoy is enter’d, the Commissioner sits down, and puts on his Hat, and the Envoy does the same: His Chair of State stands over-against the Commissioner’s, with its Back turn’d towards the Door, and plac’d in such a manner, that the Envoy’s Feet do but barely touch the Commissioner’s Carpet: When the Audience is ended, Three Gentlemen reconduct the Envoy to his Coach: The Deputies of the Free States of the Empire have a Chair with only a Back, and no Arms to it, when they have Audience of the Commissioner, and only one Gentleman receives and reconducts them.

When the Commissioner gives any public Feast, he must send an Invitation to the Ministers of the Electors and of the Princes Three Days before-hand; and the Table must be plac’d under a Canopy, where the Commissioner has the chief Seat; and the Ministers place themselves on his Right and Left, according to the Rank of their Masters.

I had the Honour to pay my Respects to the Cardinal Commissioner, who receiv’d me with all the Good-nature possible, and talk’d to me in such a manner, as gave me Hopes of Success: The Envoys of the Princes spoke to him also in my Favour, and they thought him well dispos’d to serve me: I remain’d thus Four Months at Ratisbon in continual Hopes, but still without seeing my Affairs settled: I was resolv’d to be somewhat urgent with him, that I might know without Delay what I had to depend upon: The Cardinal was so good as not to refuse me to my Face, but he sent me Word by one of the Elector’s Envoys, who spoke to me for him, that ’twas in vain for me to stay at Ratisbon; that he could do me no Service; and he said also, without giving any Reason for it, that even tho’ the whole Dyet was to intercede for me, he would do nothing for me: This Expression, which I could not think an ambiguous one, made me cease to sollicit him.

At this same time the Emperor declar’d the Marriage of his Niece the Archduchess with Charles-Albert Cajetan, the Electoral Prince of Bavaria: The Elector of Bavaria had waited for this News a long time, and he receiv’d it almost at the same Instant when he heard that his Third Son the Duke Clement, the Bishop of Munster and Paderborn, had been elected Coadjutor of Cologne, in spite of the Opposition which several Powers had secretly fomented against him in the Chapter. The Cardinal of Saxe had conceiv’d some Hopes of attaining to this Dignity; but he desisted from his Pretensions for a very considerable Sum of Money in Hand, and for the Grant of the Provostship of Alten-Ottingen in Bavaria to the Prince his Nephew. M. de Plettenberg, the Envoy of Munster, gave a grand Feast on account of his Master’s new Dignity: He caus’d a great Room and several Tents to be erected at the Gates of Ratisbon, where there was Play under the Tents, and a Supper in the long Room: The Cardinal of Saxe was present at it, and the Envoys with their Ladies, and all the Quality there in general were invited to it: After the Feast there was a Firework, to give time to prepare the long Room for the Ball, which held till Day-light.

Not long after this Entertainment the Cardinal of Saxe set out for Hungary, where he was to preside in quality of Primate of that Kingdom, at the Dyet which met there this Year: The Emperor and Empress assisted at it, to settle the Affairs of the Succession of that Crown, the Right of which the States of the Country acknowledg’d to belong to the Archduchesses, Daughters of their Imperial Majesties, and to their Posterity, in case it should please God not to grant their Majesties a Son.

After the Cardinal was gone, I stay’d at Ratisbon no longer than was absolutely necessary to take Leave of the Ministers of the Electors and the other Envoys, from whom I had receiv’d all manner of Civilities; for many of them, not content with shewing me the utmost Complaisance, extended their Regards further, and knowing the State of my Affairs, they had behav’d with a Generosity to me, which I shall always remember with Gratitude; and happy should I be, could I one Day or other find an Opportunity to shew them Proofs of it! The only one I can give them now is, to mention their Names to you: The Regard you always had for me will no doubt engage you, Madame, to esteem them as such generous Friends deserve, which will be an Advantage they will prize the more, because as they have the Honour to be acquainted with you, they know full well that you never grant your Esteem, where it is not justly merited.