MEMOIRS (continued 3)

Another Office, which is even less durable, is that of General of the Arms, which no one Man can exercise above Two Months, for Fear, no doubt, lest he who is invested with it should acquire too much Power.

This Republic was formerly very much inclin’d to espouse the Interests of Spain, when that Crown possess’d the Milanese, and the Kingdom of Naples, because most of the Genoese Nobles had their Estates in those Countries; but now that the same are pass’d under the Emperor’s Dominion, the Republic is oblig’d to carry it very fair to his Imperial Majesty, or else the Doge might be sent for to Vienna, as he was once by Lewis XIV. to Versailles.

I was at Genoa when the Republic sent a Galley to Antibes, to meet the famous Cardinal Alberoni, who, after having experienc’d the Inconstancy of Fortune in Spain, went to Italy, with a Design to retire to the Duchy of Parma, his native Country. The Disgrace of this Cardinal surpriz’d all Europe, except the Duke of Orleans the Regent of France, who was the Author of it. During the Truce to which the Cardinal had prevail’d on the King of Spain to give his Consent, the Duke improv’d that Interval to negociate that Minister’s Removal; and that he might succeed the better in his Design, he engag’d the Duke of Parma, who was the Queen of Spain’s Father-in-Law and Uncle, to act in Concert with him, for inducing the King of Spain to put away his Prime Minister. The Duke of Parma charged Scotti, his Minister at Madrid, to negotiate this Affair, in which he met at first with astonishing Obstacles; but at last the Advantages he promis’d the Queen, on the Part of the Regent of France, both for herself and her Children, crown’d the Negociation with Success. The Cardinal was dismiss’d, perhaps, with more Precipitancy than he ought to have been, considering the Attachment he had always shewn to the Queen, and the Care he had taken to rouse Spain from the Lethargy into which that Crown was fallen when he was declar’d Prime Minister. ’Twas on the 5th of January that Cardinal Alberoni found himself all at once abandon’d by every body, and oblig’d to fly from a Country where he had appear’d with more Authority than the King himself. The Order was signify’d to him by Don Miguel Durand, Secretary of State, and was in the very Hand-writing of the King, who deliver’d it to the Secretary as he was going to the Pardo to hunt. His Catholic Majesty thereby order’d his Minister to concern himself no more with State Affairs, to leave Madrid in eight Days, and the Kingdom in three Weeks; and moreover, the Cardinal was forbid coming all that while to any Place where the King and Queen were.

The Disgrace of this Minister cou’d not but be the more pleasing to the Duke of Orleans, because it happen’d at a Time when the Cardinal was taking his Measures for accommodating Matters with England; whither he had sent M. de Seissan, formerly a Colonel in France, afterwards Lieutenant-General in Poland, and now Captain-General in Spain, to treat with my Lord Stanhope, who was then at the Head of the Affairs of that Kingdom. M. de Seissan embark’d at the Groyne, after having been detain’d there a good while by contrary Winds: When he was out at Sea, he met with a severe Tempest, in which he had like to have been cast away; but at length he arriv’d at London. He went immediately to my Lord Stanhope, to whom he was known, and as he was going up Stairs, who should he meet coming down booted and spurr’d, but the very Courier from France that brought my Lord Stanhope Letters from the Abbot, afterwards the Cardinal, du Bois, acquainting my Lord of Cardinal Alberoni’s Disgrace. M. de Seissan, who knew nothing of the Change that had been made at the Court of Madrid while he was buffeted and toss’d about by the Winds and Waves, went in to my Lord Stanhope, and told him, That he was come to surrender himself his Prisoner, because he came from Spain without a Passport, unless he wou’d receive the Carte blanche he brought him for Peace, instead of such Passport. At the same time he produc’d to the English Minister the Full Power which he had from Cardinal Alberoni to treat of a Peace. My Lord Stanhope did not interrupt him; but when he had done speaking, he ask’d him if it had been long since he left Madrid: M. de Seissan telling him all the Delays that had happen’d in his Voyage, my Lord gave him the Abbot Du Bois’s Letter to read. The Envoy of Spain was Thunder-struck when he read this Letter, and said thereupon to my Lord, That he had nothing to say to all this, and that he resign’d himself to his Discretion, to deal with him as he thought fit. My Lord answer’d him very civilly, That he should be sorry to abuse the Confidence he had repos’d in him, by coming to him without a Passport, and that he would leave him at his Liberty to return to Spain: which he did accordingly, without Delay.

’Twas said that Cardinal Alberoni was so piqu’d against the King and Queen of Spain, that he study’d Revenge; and that therefore as soon as he was got out of the Kingdom, he wrote to the Regent, to desire his Protection, and to allure him, that if he would be so good as to give him Shelter at Paris, he would let him into the Detail of the most secret Affairs of the Spanish Court. I do not think that any Credit ought to be given to Reports of this Nature, invented for no other End but to blacken the Reputation of a Minister in Disgrace. Be this as it will, the History of these Times, whether True or False, does Honour to the Regent; for they say that this Prince rejected the Cardinal’s Offers, and contented himself with sending him a Passport, that he might go to Italy. I saw him actually arrive there: He landed in the Dominions of Genoa, where his Eminency, depending on the Public Faith, and upon the gracious Reception he had from the Republic, which sent a Deputation to meet him, thought himself perfectly secure. But Fortune, who was in full Cry after him to run him down, was not content with his being disgrac’d by the King of Spain; for the Pope wrote to the Doge and Senate, demanding that the Cardinal might be arrested; which was no sooner said than done. Thus, in less than two Months, this unfortunate Cardinal saw himself banish’d from a Court where he was the Dispencer of Favours, pillag’d upon the Road, and depriv’d of all his Papers, in danger of being murder’d by the Miquelets, and at last arrested in his own Country, where he arriv’d in Confidence that the Public Faith would have been his Safeguard. If any Events require Courage to support them, such as these do; but of this Virtue Cardinal Alberoni had an eminent Share, and I was always astonish’d to see with what Intrepidity he behav’d in his Adversity.

After I had stay’d a while at Genoa, I went to Sarzana[15], and from thence to Pisa[16], which is a City in the Dominions of Tuscany, with a University and an Archbishoprick, and was formerly a Republic of no small Consequence in the Mediterranean, till it was conquered by the Dukes of Tuscany of the Family of the Medicis, who have ever since remain’d Masters of it. The City of Pisa has pompous Buildings: The Metropolitan Church call’d the Dome, is of admirable Beauty: ’Tis built in the Gothic Order, and its Roof is Supported by 76 Marble Pillars: The Dome and Roof of the Choir are also painted in the Gothic Style. This great Church is hung all over with Crimson Velvet, adorn’d with broad Gold Lace: In this Church is a Chapel with a very magnificent Altar, the Antipendium of which, and the Tabernacle, are solid Silver of admirable Workmanship. Great Notice is also taken of the Gates of this Church, which are all of cast Iron, with very fine Basso-Relievo’s upon them, representing Historical Passages of the old Old Testament. Near this Church is the great Church-yard, which is encompass’d with a Gallery, whose Walls painted in Fresco represent the History of the City of Pisa. At a small Distance from this Church-yard is the Baptistery, which is a Chapel built of a round Figure, in the Form of a Dome, supported by Pillars of Oriental Granite, bigger and higher than usual: The Pavement and Steps of the Altar are of very curious Stones inlaid in the Mosaic Manner; and the Preacher’s Pulpit is an admirable Piece of Work of white Marble.

St. Stephen’s Church is also worthy of the Attention of the curious Traveller, for its costly Paintings, Gilding, Marble Statues, and particularly the rich Spoils taken from the Infidels. In this Church meets the Chapter of the Knights of St. Stephen, which was instituted by the Great Duke Cosmo I. Anno 1561, after he had obtain’d a Victory. The Knights of this Order must be Noble by four Descents: They make a Vow of Conjugal Fidelity; and they wear a Red Cross like the Cross of Malta, which is fasten’d to a Red Ribbon as the Golden Fleece is, and the Cross is also embroider’d upon the Habit and Mantle. Without this Church, in the Square, is the Statue of the Great Duke Cosmo I. in Brass.

I carefully examin’d the famous Tower that leans to one Side: ’Tis round, and incompass’d with white Marble Pillars that support the Galleries that run round it. I can scarce believe that this Tower was built sloping at first, and am more apt to think it owing to some violent Earthquake, which is a Misfortune very frequent in this Part of the World. They say this Tower is 188 Foot in Height: There’s an Ascent to the Platform or Terrass, which is encompass’d with Banisters, by a Stair-case of 193 Steps.

The Country about Pisa is very pleasant: There’s a Grove of Cypress at its Gates, whose continual Verdure is delightful. You know, Madame, that at Pisa was concluded that famous Treaty between Alexander VII. and Lewis XIV. wherein the Satisfaction was settled which the Holy Father was to give the King, for the Affront his Ambassador the Duke of Crequy had receiv’d at Rome.

From Pisa I went in a Day to Florence[17], the Capital of Tuscany, and the ordinary Residence of the Great Dukes. ’Tis call’d Florence the Fair, and not without Reason; for ’tis one of the largest and finest Cities in Europe.

The Cathedral Church is a magnificent and most spacious Pile: The Outside is fac’d all over with Marble of various Colours: The Inside contains immense Treasures, in Pictures, Statues, and other most curious Pieces. Near the Cathedral is a Church commonly call’d the Chapel of the Baptistery, which is also intirely fac’d with Marble. The Church of the Annunciade is another Structure in the high Stile; in every Part of which are stately Paintings, Works in Gold, Brass, &c. the whole of the utmost Delicacy: Yet notwithstanding the Richness of these Buildings, it may be said without Aggravation, that they are trifling in Comparison with the stately Church of St. Lawrence. ’Tis of a Hexagon Figure: In the Middle of every Front is a double Pilaster of Jasper, with a Chapiter of Brass gilt, which supports a Cornice and an Entablature of the same, each Pilaster representing the Emblems of precious Stones. At the six Angles there are six Tombs of very costly Marble, and over each a Cushion sprinkled with precious Stones, which supports very rich Crowns plac’d at the Foot of the Statues of the Great Dukes: These Statues, which are of Brass gilt, and twice as big as the Life, are plac’d in Niches of black Marble. The Pedestals of the six Tombs are overcast with Porphyry and a sort of Agat call’d Chalcedony, on which are inscrib’d, in Letters of Gold, the Epitaphs of the Princes whose Bodies are therein contain’d. All the rest of the Wall is lin’d with the best Marble, and costly Stones plac’d in Compartiments or Pannels, the Squares of which are of Brass gilded: The High Altar is of Lapis Lazuli or Azure-stone inrich’d with Jewels. The Thing which strikes the Eye most of all is the Tabernacle, the Magnificence whereof is worthy of the rest. In a Word, I take it to be the only Building that can compare with the famous Temple of Solomon, of which there is so glorious a Description in the Scriptures.

Every one knows that ’twas the famous Cosmo di Medicis who laid the Foundations of the Principality of Florence, and that ’twas Pope Pius IV. who gave it the Title of the Great Duchy. When I came hither, the Great Duke Cosmo III. was still living, who, tho’ very old, had a great deal of Vigour. He was a Man of the most civil Behaviour in the World, which, added to his fair Hair, gain’d him the Love and Veneration of all that approach’d him. I had the Honour to pay my Devoirs to him one Evening, as I was introduc’d to an Audience of him by his First Minister. I found him all alone in the Room, standing and leaning against a Table, upon which were two Wax Candles; After I had made my Obeisance to him, he cover’d himself, and bad me be cover’d too: I intreated him to humour the profound Respect I had for his Highness so far as to let me remain uncover’d; but then he took off his Hat, and press’d me to put on mine, which I did as soon as he was cover’d, in conformity to this grand Maxim, That ’tis the Duty of private Men to keep in the Posture which Princes require of them: But I will own frankly, that it gave me some Uneasiness to speak with my Hat upon my Head to a Prince of the Great Duke’s Age and Dignity. His Highness, before he enter’d into Conversation with me, ask’d me whether I spoke Italian? I told him that I could talk it a little, but that I did not think I understood enough of it to undertake to speak it in the Presence of so great a Prince as he: To this he made Answer, And I can speak some broken French. Nevertheless, he did me the Honour to talk with me a good while in that Language, with abundance of Good-nature. Next Day I got myself introduc’d to the Great Prince by Mr. Tyrrel, a Gentleman of his Bedchamber. The Prince receiv’d me very kindly, said he remember’d that he had seen Madamoiselle de Pollnitz, my Cousin, attending the late Queen at Berlin, and that he was at my Mother’s House while he stay’d in Germany; and he offer’d me his Protection upon all Occasions whenever I wanted it. This Prince was married to a Princess of Saxe-Lawenbourg, Dowager of the Prince Palatine of Newbourg, who was the Elector Palatine’s Brother.

The Great Duke Cosmo III. who died in 1723, married Margaret Louisa of Orleans, Daughter of Gaston of France, Duke of Orleans, Brother of Lewis XIII. by whom he had two Sons and a Daughter. The eldest Son, whose Name was Ferdinand de Medicis, died at Florence, October 30, 1713. without any Issue by his Wife, who was Violante Beatrix of Bavaria. The second, now the Great Duke, is John Gaston de Medicis[18]. The Princess, his Sister, is Anna-Maria-Louisa of Florence[19], who married the Elector Palatine, John William of Newbourg; and after that Prince’s Death retir’d to the Dominions of the Great Duke, in which she usually resides.

The Palace of the Great Duke is the most stately Building that one can see. All the Relations of Travellers give very large Descriptions of it, but they may be all said to come far short of the real State of it. The Gallery especially is a matchless Piece: ’Tis about 400 Feet long, and has a Row of antique Statues and Busts on each Side. This Gallery leads into several Rooms, which are all full of the greatest Curiosities one would wish to see. In one there are the Pictures of all the famous Painters done by themselves: The second is adorn’d with Porcellane of all Sorts: There is a Table too of great Beauty, inlaid with precious Stones. The other Rooms contain Pictures, Antiquities, and wonderful fine Cabinets of inlaid Work: I was particularly surpriz’d at a couple of Pictures in Wax in one of these Rooms, which are both fine Rarities; but the Artist could not have chose a more melancholy Subject; for the one represents a Church-yard, and the other a City infected with a Plague. There is no looking upon these two Pictures without being struck at the same time with Admiration and Horror.

There is a Piece that makes Part of the Gallery which is worthy of a nice Observation: ’Tis an Octagon Saloon pav’d with Marble of various Colours: The Walls are hung with Crimson Velvet; and the Ceiling of the Dome is lin’d with Mother of Pearl, which makes a very fine Effect. But among all the Rarities which this stately Saloon contains, nothing is comparable to the Great Duke’s famous Diamond: I saw the Model of it, which is all that they now shew of it; the present King of Denmark being the last Person to whom the late Great Duke shew’d it in 1769, which creates a Suspicion that this Diamond is not new at Florence: Many People assur’d me it was sold, and that the Grand Signior was the Purchaser of it. Be it where it will, the Weight of this Diamond was 139 Carats and a half.

After having stay’d some time at Florence, I set out for Rome, taking Sienna in my Way, which is an Archiepiscopal City that makes a Part of Tuscany. The Cathedral Church is built all of black and white Marble. From Sienna I went to Montefiascone, a City and Bishoprick in the Patrimony of St. Peter. My Design was to have gone through this Town without stopping, but the bad Weather oblig’d me to stay at the Post-house: There was such a deep Snow, and at the same time the Wind was so high, and the Cold so terrible, that the Inhabitants told me, that in the Memory of Man they had not known it so violent. I made no great Scruple to believe them, especially after what happen’d to me at the Post-house. The Master of the House carry’d me up Stairs into a great Room, where I found two Gentlemen, the one an Italian, the other a German, who were both come from Rome, and obliged, as I was, by the bad Weather to stay at Montefiascone. As we were talking together by the Fire-side, I observ’d a very odd Motion as if we had been rock’d. As I had never felt an Earthquake, I concluded this to be one; but the Italian told me the Motion was too regular, and that, to be sure, it proceeded from some other Cause: And in a very few Moments we were convinc’d that it was the Wind which shook us in this Manner. As we had Reason to fear that the House would tumble upon our Heads, we desir’d our Landlord to put us in some Place where our Lives would not be in so much Danger. The Man laugh’d to see us so affrighted, and to encourage us he said that his House had totter’d as much for these 30 Years past, without receiving any Damage, and that therefore it was like to stand a good while longer: But this was not Reason sufficient to satisfy me of the Stability of his House; on the contrary, thought I, an Earthquake which had happen’d to a House off and on for a matter of 30 Years, must, ere long, bring it to the Ground: And besides, as I had always met with bad Fortune, it was but prudent not to expose myself in Harm’s Way; I resolv’d therefore to go down Stairs, the two Gentlemen in my Company did the same, and our Landlord carry’d us to an opposite House, where really we were in a worse Pickle than before. The Fire was no sooner kindled, but we had like to have been suffocated with the Smoak; and we were fain to set open every Window and Door, to let in Air; but the Violence of the Wind was such that we could bear the Room no longer, and we were oblig’d to shift our Quarters again. We went into the Town, in Hopes of faring better there; but ’twas our Lot to fall into one of the most detestable Victualling-Houses in the World; yet we resolv’d to stay there, because there fortunately happen’d to be a Chimney that did not smoak; but while we were thinking we should have some Amends for the Cold we had suffer’d in these Removes, as if it had been decreed that we should have one thing or another to plague us all Day long, this very Chimney took Fire, which alarming the Town, every body flock’d to the Place, and by good Luck the Fire was soon extinguish’d; nevertheless, the Mob join’d in a Halloo against us, as if we had been the Incendiaries, so that I expected every Moment we should be sent to Gaol, till we scatter’d our Money, and then our Fears vanish’d; but the Consequence of all this Noise was, that we were forbid to have a Fire in our Chamber, so that we were forc’d to put up with that which was made in one of the nastiest Kitchens that could be.

From Montefiascone I went in a Day and half to Rome[20], to which City all the Way from Florence is over Hills and Mountains: The Roads belonging to the Dominions of Tuscany are kept in good Order, and Care has been taken to render them as passable as the Nature of them will permit, by levelling Hills, and making noble Causeys; but as soon as one enters the Ecclesiastical State, the Ways are so terribly bad, that ’tis a hard Matter to get through them. I stopp’d my Chaise about a League from Rome upon an Eminence, from whence is a Descent to Ponte-Mole. There I cast my Eyes over that great City, and had a Fore-Taste of the Pleasure I should have, when I came to take my Progress thro’ its several Quarters. After having satisfy’d this first Curiosity, I proceeded on my Journey: I pass’d the Tyber over the Ponte-Mole, and struck into a pav’d Road, which carry’d me for a long time between Gardens and Pleasure-houses, till I came to the famous City of Rome. I enter’d it thro’ the Gate del Popoli, which led me into a triangular Square of the same Name, consisting of Two Rows of very sorry Houses, and of a Third, which is somewhat better. Here are Two broad Streets, which open in Form of a Goose’s Foot, and are separated from one another by Two fine Churches of equal Architecture. In the midst of this Square is the famous Obelisk erected by Sixtus V.

From this Square I went to the Custom-house, where I had my Baggage search’d. There’s a magnificent Front to this Custom-house, which is a stately Portico, supported by large Pillars of Oriental Granite. As soon as the Searchers had done rummaging all my Things, I went on to the Hotel of Monte d’Or on the Square of Spain, which is but an indifferent Place, being a long and very irregular Square encompass’d with a Parcel of ill-contriv’d Houses, and a Fountain at one End, which serves for a Watering Place.

Next Day after my Arrival, my Curiosity carry’d me to visit St. Peter’s Church: The first thing I saw in my Way, going from my Lodgings, was the Bridge of St. Angelo upon the Tyber, which fronts the Castle of the same Name: This Bridge is of a fine Breadth, with Marble Banisters on each Side, on which, at proper Distances, are Angels of Marble, of wonderful Workmanship. The Castle of St. Angelo is, as I have said, over-against the Bridge: This is a great Tower, encompass’d with Bastions, which serves as a Citadel to the City of Rome, and a Place of Retreat to the Pope in a time of War or Rebellion; it communicates by a long Gallery with the Vatican Palace: As we go off of the Bridge of St. Angelo, we pass for some time on the Banks of the Tyber, over a Key that is on the left Hand. From thence we go thro’ several Streets to the famous Square of St. Peter’s Church, which may be term’d the chief Square in the Universe. It was design’d by the celebrated Bernini, and executed in the manner as it now appears to us by Pope Alexander VII. ’Tis an Oval, encompass’d with a great Gallery, supported by 324 Pillars of Free-Stone; the Top is adorn’d with a Balustrade, on which, at proper Spaces, are the Statues of the Twelve Apostles and other Saints, and the Arms of Pope Alexander VII. In this Square we see the famous Obelisk, which was rais’d by Order of Sixtus V. in 1586, in the middle between Two noble Fountains. The Gallery, that runs round St. Peter’s Square, leads on both Sides to the Portico of the Church, which is a Piece of Work that one can never be weary of admiring. For whether we consider the Materials, or the Skill of the Architect by whom it was conducted, they are equally surprizing. The Pavement of the Portico is of Marble, and the Ceiling of Stucco gilt: It leads on the Right Hand to the grand Stair-case of the Vatican, and there’s a cover’d Gallery over it, where the Pope appears upon Holy-Thursday and Easter-Day to anathematize Heretics, Schismatics and Infidels; and also to bless the People, who at that time are all kneeling in the Square, and in the Streets which lead to it. The principal Entrance of the Portico is answerable to the great Gate of the Church, which is of Brass, and on one Side of it is that call’d la Porta Santa, or the Holy Gate, that is never open’d except on the grand Jubilees, which are only once in 25 Years.

But let the Outside of this stately Edifice be as magnificent as it will, ’tis not to compare to the Inside, where is nothing but Gold, Silver, Brass, Marble, Precious Stones, Paintings and Carvings by the greatest Masters. In a Word, in this august Temple we see the Master-Pieces of the most skilful Artists in all manner of Works; and if a Man has never so little Taste for Curiosities, he will at every Turn discover new Beauties.

The Plan of this Building is a Cross, with a very spacious and lofty Dome in the middle; the Ceiling of which is gilded and painted in Mosaic. Under this Dome stands the High Altar, which is not to be parallel’d for its Magnificence: ’Tis rais’d some Steps from the Ground, and stands by itself; there is none but the Pope, or, in his Absence, the Dean of the sacred College, that can say Mass at it: Four wreathed Columns of Brass, with Vine-Leaves twining about them, support a superb Canopy or Pavilion, which is intirely of Brass: ’Tis adorn’d with Basso-Relievo’s, and especially of Bees, to denote the Arms of Pope Urban VIII. of the Barberini Family, who caus’d this noble Pavilion to be erected. Over each Pillar is an Angel of Brass gilt, 17 Feet high. The Cornices of the Pillars are wide enough for Children to play and walk between them: Under the Altar is the Tomb of the Apostles St. Peter and St. Paul, to which is a Descent by Two Flights of Marble Steps, in Form of a Horse-shoe. The whole is adorn’d with Compartments of Marble and precious Stones, the Workmanship of which even surpasses the Beauty of the Materials. These Steps are encompass’d with Banisters of Brass, on which a great Number of Silver Lamps is perpetually burning, except on Good Friday.

St. Peter’s Chair is over-against the great Altar; ’tis all of Brass, and very high; ’tis supported by the Four Fathers of the Church, whose Colossal Statues are of Brass gilt: Over the Chair is a Glory of Brass, which reaches to the Roof, and underneath is a magnificent Altar, on the Sides whereof are Two Tombs of Popes.

I have already done myself the Honour to acquaint you, that I did not propose to give a particular Detail of all the fine Things which most of the Italian Cities, and especially Rome, offer to the Eyes of the curious Spectator; for I should in that case only repeat what a hundred Travellers have already describ’d at large; I therefore silently pass over several Monuments, with which you are perfectly acquainted, by the reading of several Travels to Italy: I will only tell you by the way, that I was astonish’d at the Beauty of the Tomb of the famous Christina Queen of Sweden, who, after having made a voluntary Resignation of her Crown, and turn’d Catholic, at last fix’d her Residence at Rome, where she dy’d. This Princess was interr’d in St. Peter’s Church, where a magnificent Tomb of Marble and Brass was erected for her; and there’s her Picture in a Medallion, which is very fine. On one Side of this Princess’s Tomb, is that of the famous Countess Matilda, whose Memory ought to be very dear to the Popes, she having been one of the most signal Benefactrices which the Church ever had.

Besides the Inside and Outside of St. Peter’s Church, there are Places under Ground which are very magnificent: One sees several Chapels there lin’d with Marble, whose Altars are adorn’d with Mosaic Paintings, to fortify them against the Damps. The Roof of this Church is also worth seeing; one ascends first to the Dome by a Stair-case, rising gradually without Steps; after which one ascends by another, which is not so commodious, to a Globe at the Top of the Dome, which supports its Cross: From hence there’s a Prospect of the Country for near 40 Miles.

I went from St. Peter’s Church to see the Vatican Palace, which joins to it: This was formerly the Pope’s common Residence, but for some time past they have given the Palace of Monte Cavallo the Preference to it, that being said to be in a much healthier Air. The Vatican is a very irregular Pile, of several Pieces of Buildings coupled together, which compose an Edifice of a prodigious Size, where by Consequence there must be a great Number of Apartments. ’Tis accompany’d with a Garden, at the End of which is a House call’d Belvedere, because of the fine Prospect there is from it. In this Palace there are all the most curious Things one would wish to see in Pictures and in Statues. The Pope’s Apartments are very fine, and hung with crimson Damask or Velvet, adorn’d with a broad Lace and Fringe of Gold. I enter’d into a great Apartment, which was heretofore richly furnish’d for the Reception of Philip V. King of Spain, at the time when he was in Italy, and expected at Rome.

The famous Vatican Library is also worth the Traveller’s View, being full of very scarce Books and curious MSS. You know, it has been very much augmented by the Heidelberg Library, and that of the Duke of Urbino.

After having satisfy’d my Curiosity with regard to these Structures, I thought of making some Visits: I went to the Marquis C——, and to the Duke S——, for whom I had Letters given me at Florence. Those Gentlemen were mighty civil to me, and offer’d to shew me the Curiosities at Rome, and to introduce me to the Assemblies. In Fact the Marquis C—— carry’d me the very same Day to Madame de B——, where I found a very fine Assembly of Ladies and Gentlemen, and especially Abbes, smart Fellows, who were able to read Lectures to the nicest Petit-Maitres in the Art of Coquetry. The Ladies were very well dress’d, and for most part amiable, but not very easy of Access to such as had not the Honour of wearing the little Band. The young Abbes had taken Care to engross them so, that there seem’d to be no Possibility of coming near them. After some Chat, and swallowing good Store of Chocolate, we went into another Room, where the Company sat down to several Sorts of Play. There I thought with myself, of what Advantage it would have been for me to be Monsieur l’ Abbe. Every one of these Gentlemen readily found Partners, but for my part, as they did not do me the Honour to offer me the Cards, I was perfectly idle; and had it not been for the Person that introduc’d me, with whom I talk’d now-and-then, I should have made a very queer Figure: I did not think fit to stay till the Assembly broke up, and was very glad when I got out.

Next Day I took an Antiquarian with me, to serve as my Guide, to shew me the greatest Curiosities at Rome: He carry’d me first to the most considerable Squares; and of these the first that I saw was the Trajan Square, in the middle whereof stands the famous Trajan Pillar, so call’d from the Emperor Trajan, who began it, tho’ ’twas not finish’d till after his Death: ’Tis 128 Feet in Height, and has a Stair-case that leads to the Top, consisting of 123 Steps. The Outside of this Pillar is of Marble, and represents Trajan’s principal Actions in Basso-Relievo. This Column was rais’d higher by Pope Sixtus V. who had St. Peter’s Statue plac’d on the Top of it, instead of an Urn, which they say contain’d the Ashes of the Emperor Trajan.

My Antiquarian conducted me afterwards to the Place Navona, which forms a long Square, with a Number of Houses round it, which are neither regular nor magnificent. There are in the middle Three Fountains, very convenient for the Purpose they serve, which is to lay all that Part of the Town under Water in extreme hot Weather, for the Refreshment of Persons of Quality, who come thither at that time in their Coaches.

We went to see the Church of St. John de Lateran, which may be deem’d the Mother and Chief of all the Churches in Christendom: It owes its Foundation to the Emperor Constantine, who caus’d it to be built with extraordinary Magnificence; it has had the Misfortune of being twice burnt down, but was rebuilt both times with the same Magnificence: ’Tis not indeed so large, nor of such modern Architecture as St. Peter’s Church, but every whit as beautiful. The Pavement is all of Marble, and the Roof supported by Four Rows of Pillars, which are of an extraordinary Height and Circumference. Near this Church is a Chapel, built in Form of a Dome, which, ’tis said, was Constantine’s Baptistery, but this last Article is not absolutely certain.

From this Church I went to the Scala-Santa, which is a Building of Free-Stone, but no Part of it extraordinary: Three Portico’s form the principal Front; that in the middle leads to the Scala-Santa, or Holy Stair-case; so call’d because ’tis said the Steps of it are the same that form’d the Stair-case of Pilate’s Palace, by which our Lord descended, after he was scourg’d. Every body goes up these Stairs on their Knees; it leads to a Chapel, with Grates inclosing precious Relics, particularly a Picture of Jesus Christ, which, they affirm, was painted by the Angels. ’Tis for this very Reason, that this Chapel is call’d the Sancta-Sanctorum. On one Side of this Scala-Santa there are Two little Stair-cases, for those that don’t care to ascend the Holy Stairs upon their Knees; or for those who go down, after having perform’d this Act of Devotion.

When I had seen the Scala-Santa, my Guide conducted me to the Coliseum, which is a large Amphitheatre, built of Stone: They say, that Vespasian began this superb Structure, and that his Son Titus finish’d it, and entertain’d the Public with a Battle of wild Beasts in it, of which here were to the Number of 5000. The Inside of the Coliseum is an Oval, encompass’d with Galleries and an Amphitheatre, which, according to the Opinion of some Authors, contain’d above 85,000 Spectators: ’Tis great Pity that so stately a Building was not preserv’d. Urban VIII. of the Barberini Family, permitted his Nephews to demolish a Part of the Coliseum, and to build therewith the Barberini Palace. The little that remains of it is so much fallen to Ruin, that ’tis very probable, the next Generation will know nothing of this magnificent Structure, but by the Prints that we have of it.

The Pantheon, or our Lady de la Rotonda, is the only ancient Edifice that has been preserv’d: ’Tis 228 Feet in Diameter; and from its Centre to the Top of the Dome ’tis 144 Feet: Agrippa, the Favourite and Son-in-Law of the Emperor Augustus, caus’d this Temple to be built in Honour of all the Heathen Gods; and ’tis now a Church, dedicated to All the Saints. The only Light it has, is from a great Opening in the middle of the Roof, which, tho’ somewhat lofty, is not supported by any Pillar: It was formerly cover’d with Brass, but Urban VIII. caus’d it to be taken off, and employ’d in the building of the High Altar of St. Peter’s Church; which occasion’d his Enemies to say, That the Barberini had done, what the Barbarians durst not attempt.

At my Return from this Ramble I found at my Lodgings the Duke de S——, who came to carry me to the Assembly at Madame de S——. The Company there was not very numerous, nor did I find it any more diverting than that to which I was introduc’d before: There were few Ladies, and scarce any Gentlemen of the Sword, but Abbes in Abundance: I plainly perceiv’d, that the Assemblies at Rome were not the most entertaining to a Foreigner, and therefore I resolv’d, which I think was much better, to employ myself in viewing the various Curiosities of the City. I went to the Capitol, being every where accompany’d by my trusty Antiquarian: ’Tis a Building compos’d of Three distinct Apartments, detach’d from one another; Two of which form the advanc’d Wings, and all Three are built of Free-Stone: They stand upon a Hill, to which is an Ascent by a great Marble Stair-case: The Court before this Building is a spacious Oval, to which is a Descent by Three Steps of Marble: In the middle is the Equestrian Statue of the Emperor Marcus Aurelius, a noble Remnant of Antiquity.

From the Capitol I went to the Pope’s Palace, call’d Monte-Cavallo, from the Name of the Hill on which it stands. This of all the Palaces of Rome is one that enjoys the finest Prospect, and the best Air: It was built by Order of Pope Paul V. The Gardens which belong to it are large, but not so beautiful, as to be answerable to the Magnificence of the Palace. After having sufficiently view’d it, I return’d to my Quarters, where I had appointed the Marquis de A—— to come and go along with me to the Cardinal Corsini. His Eminency, who had an Assembly at is House every Night, gave me a very kind Reception, and I found a numerous Company there, which was much more to my Satisfaction than the Two Assemblies I had been at before. The Cardinal did the Honours of his House perfectly well, and took Care that every body should have a Part, either at Play, or in Conversation. I paid my Court to him constantly, and did not fail to be at his Assembly every Night, till I left the City: The rest of the Time I spent in rambling thro’ the several Quarters of Rome, to see what was most remarkable.

After having made this Progress thro’ the Inside of the City, I had a Mind also to view the Out-parts: I was conducted to the famous Vineyards of the Pamphili and Borghese Families, which the Italians prefer before all the Gardens in Europe; wherein I am not quite of their Opinion. The Statues in these Vineyards are, to my Mind, not to be parallel’d of the Sort, but, as to the Agriculture or Waters, the Gardens of France outstrip them by far. At the Entrance of the Borghese Vineyard is a large Portico of Marble, which fronts a Walk, at the End whereof is a very large Square, encompass’d with a Marble Balustrade, adorn’d with Statues of the same. This Square serves as a Court to the House, which is not very large, but contains immense Wealth in Statues and Paintings. The Outside is fac’d with Basso-Relievo’s of Marble, amongst which the Statue of Quintus Curtius on Horseback, casting himself headlong into the Gulph, is especially to be admir’d.

The Pamphili’s Vineyard is in my Opinion the finest Place in the Suburbs of Rome. The Gardens have an Air of Grandeur and Proportion, which I have not observ’d any where else. The Outside and Inside of the House are lin’d alike with Basso-Relievo’s of Marble of admirable Workmanship. There are also noble Statues, but most of ’em a little damag’d, by reason of the various Fits of Devotion and Lukewarmness of a Prince Pamphili, who did these Statues irreparable Injury: For this Prince, in the first hot Fits of his Devotion, caus’d the Nudities of the Statues of this Garden to be plaister’d over; but when that Zeal was abated, he had a Mind to see his Statues again in their former Condition, which being not possible to be done without breaking off the Plaister with the Strokes of a Hammer; the Workman, for Want of due Care, gave some by which several of those Statues were considerably damaged.

All the various Curiosities took up a great deal of my Time, as well as the famous Borghese and Farnese Palaces, those of Colonna, Palavicini, Barberini, and others, the Description of which I omit. After having thus satisfy’d myself, I thought of being introduced to the Pope, and for that Purpose apply’d to the Cardinal del Giudice, to whom I had Letters of Recommendation, as I had to the Cardinals Gualtieri and Ottoboni. I had the Honour to have favourable Audiences of all their three Eminencies. As I was a German, I paid my first Visit to the Cardinal del Giudice, who at that Time had the Care of the Emperor’s Affairs. After a short Stay in his Antichamber, I was Introduc’d to an Audience of him by one of his Gentlemen. This Prelate was not well that Day, and I found him in his Night-Gown, lying on a Couch-Bed; but as soon as he saw me enter, he rose and advanc’d to receive me; after which he sat down again, and made me take an Arm-Chair over-against him. When the Audience was over, he got up, and conducted me to the very Door of his Chamber, where I found his Eminency’s Gentlemen, two of whom waited on me to the Head of the Stairs, and another went down with me, and attended me to my Coach.

Cardinal Gualtieri receiv’d me also in a most obliging Manner. He gave me Audience in his Closet, where, after the first Greeting, he sat down in an Arm-Chair, made me do the like, and oblig’d me to be cover’d: I was very loth to take that Liberty, but he would be obey’d; and in this Situation I stay’d an Hour at least. I was charm’d with the Behaviour of this Prelate, who of all the Cardinals took the least State upon him. The Tokens he gave me of his Kindness, made me attach myself to him; and I was very assiduous in my Attendance upon him all the Time that I stay’d at Rome. He sent one of his Gentlemen with me to the Cardinal Ottoboni, Protector of the Affairs of France, whom I found in his Closet standing, and in that Posture he remain’d all the Time of my Visit. When I withdrew, I was attended in the same Manner as I had been at the House of the Cardinal del Giudice.

After I had made a Visit to these three Cardinals, the Cardinal del Giudice introduced me to the Pope, who was at that Time Clement XI. of the Albani Family. The Cardinal had an Audience of his Holiness by himself first, and then he introduc’d me. I fell on my Knees at the Door, according to Custom, and then rising again, advanc’d to the Middle of the Room, where I was preparing for a second Genuflexion; but the Pope prevented me, by beckoning me with his Hand to advance, and calling out to me Aventi, Aventi, i.e. Come forwards. I obey’d till I came to his Feet, when I fell on my Knees and kiss’d an embroider’d Cross which was on his Holiness’s Slippers. The Pope gave me his Blessing, and commanded me to rise. He did me the Honour to talk to me a good while, concerning the good Fortune I had to embrace the Catholic Religion; ask’d me several Questions relating to my Conversion, and seem’d so overjoy’d at the Grace God had given me, that he could not refrain shedding some Tears. He then ask’d me News about the Sate of Religion in Germany, and highly extoll’d the Zeal which the Elector Palatine manifested for the Catholic Religion. He concluded with exhorting me to continue stedfast in the Opinion I had been so happy as to embrace; and when his Holiness dismiss’d me, he made me a Present of several Agnis Dei’s, two little Medals, one of Gold the other of Silver, and a Dispensation to eat Flesh in Lent.

I stay’d at Rome till Lent was over, that I might have a Sight of the Ceremonies of the Holy Week; at which Time the Court of the Sovereign Pontiff appears in its utmost Splendor. His Holiness set out on Wednesday in the Holy Week from Monte Cavallo for the Vatican Palace, with very great Ceremony, and a numerous Retinue: The Prelates and Officers of his Holiness’s Houshold went first, who were all on Horseback in wide Cassocks, which really made a very scurvy Figure; for, in my Opinion, long Gowns and flapp’d Hats do not seem to be a suitable Equipage for Riding. After them came a couple of Grooms, leading a White Horse richly accouter’d, the same which was for his Holiness’s Riding; but on that Day he was carried in a Sedan of Crimson Velvet embroider’d with Gold, which was followed by a Litter in the same Taste, and by a magnificent Coach drawn by six dapple grey Horses. On the Sides of the Pope’s Chair march’d two Files of the Hundred Swiss, and the Light-Horse clos’d the March. In this Manner did the Pope make his Entry to the Vatican Palace.

The next Day, which was Holy Thursday, I desir’d Cardinal Gualtieri to get me a Place where I might see the Ceremonies of that Grand Day; and his Eminency was so good as to gratify my Wish. When I arriv’d at the Church, the Pope was already in his Chapel, seated on a Throne erected on the Right Side of the Altar, with a Cardinal on each Side of him, who, I observ’d, sat upon Stools. The Constable Colonna stood near the Pope, with a drawn Sword in his Hand. As soon as the Mass was ended, the holy Father descended from his Throne, and plac’d himself in a Chair of State which was of Crimson Velvet embroider’d with Gold: Eight Men of the Pope’s Livery rais’d the Chair upon their Shoulders, and carry’d it in that Manner to the Gallery which is over the Portico of St. Peter’s Church. The Pope was preceded by his Houshold, and by all the Cardinals, who walk’d two and two, in the midst of a couple pf Files of the Hundred Swiss. All St. Peter’s Square, and the Streets leading to it, were full of People: His Holiness’s Light-Horse and Gendarmery were also there, together with the Foot-Guards, all drawn up in Order of Battle, with their Officers at their Head. As soon as his Holiness appear’d, there was a Flourish of the Kettle-Drums and Trumpets, which was quickly succeeded with a profound Silence. During this the Pope order’d a Cardinal to read the Bull of Excommunication and Anathema, against Heretics, Schismatics, Pagans, and all others, that did not pay due Obedience to the Holy See, or with-held its Estates; in short, against all those that lead irregular Lives. While this Bull was reading, the Pope held a Wax Taper, or rather a Torch, lighted, and as soon as the Cardinal had done reading it, the Pope rose, that is to say, the Eight Men who carry’d him lifted him up a little higher, and then his Holiness with a loud Voice pronounc’d the Excommunication, which done he threw the Torch out of his Hand into the Square, as a Symbol of the Thunder of the Church; and in a few Moments after, the Pope took off the said Excommunication, on Condition, nevertheless, that the Persons anathematis’d would repent and do public Penance for their Errors. Then he gave his Blessing to all that were present, and to the whole City of Rome in general, by turning himself about towards the Three other Parts of the Town. At the same Time all the Cannon of the Castle of St. Angelo were fir’d, and all the Bells of the City were rung, which was accompany’d with the Sound of the Trumpets, Kettle-Drums, and other Drums of the Soldiery, that were posted in St. Peter’s Square. During this, his Holiness was carry’d back into his Chapel, where the Tiara which he had wore during the whole Ceremony, was taken off, and then he went up to the Altar, where he took the Holy Sacrament and carry’d it with great Devotion to a magnificent Sepulchre, which had been built in the little Chapel. After this Ceremony, the Pope retir’d to put on his ordinary Habit, and then went, attended by the Cardinals, into a Room, where Thirteen Priests of different Nations being plac’d all in a Row, dress’d in long White Robes, his Holiness wash’d their Feet, and gave to each a Medal and a Nosegay of Flowers. This Ceremony being ended, the Pope, follow’d by those Thirteen Priests, went into a second Room, where was a Table very neatly spread, at which the Priests sat down, and were serv’d by the Pope and the Cardinals. The Chevalier de St. George and his Princess were present at this Ceremony, with whom the Pope had some Conversation; and when his Holiness left them, he said, I have been washing of Feet, I am going now to wash Hands: at the same Time he presented the Water for that Purpose to the Thirteen Clergymen whom he had attended during the Dinner.

When the Pope was retir’d, the Cardinals went into a great Room, where they found a Table sumptuously spread. At Night the Pope and the Sacred College assisted at the Miserere, which was sung in the great Chapel with Instrumental Music.

Upon Easter-Day the Pope was present at High-Mass, with all the Cardinals; after which his Holiness, dress’d in his Pontificalibus and the Tiara on his Head, was carry’d in the same Manner as upon Holy Thursday, to the Gallery which fronts St. Peter’s Square, where the Soldiers were drawn up in Batallia, and the People on their Knees to receive the Pope’s Benediction; which was no sooner given, than there was a general Discharge of all the Artillery from the Castle of St. Angelo: Then the Pope retir’d to his Palace, and each of the Cardinals to his respective Habitation. Thus ended the Ceremonies of the Holy Week, during which I observ’d, that the Churches were always so throng’d, that the People were ready to be stifled: Yet I believe that the Italians frequent the Churches during this holy Season, more for the sake of hearing the excellent Music that is perform’d in them, than from any Motive of Religion.

Immediately after the Holy Week was ended, I set out Post from Rome with several Foreigners that had the same Curiosity as myself, to see the famous City of Naples. This City, which is the Metropolis of a Kingdom of the same Name, stands on the Brink of the Sea, where it forms a Basin, which the Town encompasses in Form of a Half Moon: From thence it rises like an Amphitheatre, towards Hills which are cover’d with Vineyards and delightful Gardens, from whence is the finest Prospect that can be imagin’d. Upon one of these Hills is the famous Castle of St. Elmo, built by Charles V. which is a Fortress that commands the whole City.

Naples is the See of an Archbishop, whose Metropolitan Church is dedicated to St. Januarius; and in this Church is preserv’d the Head of that Saint, and some Drops of his Blood in a Glass Phyal. We are assur’d, that every Year, upon that Saint’s Festival, the very Instant that they put the Phyal to the Head, the Blood, which was before condens’d, turns Liquid. All the People of Naples are Eye-Witnesses of this Miracle, and seem, in my Mind, to have a great Devotion for the Saint. Of this we may easily judge by the Magnificence of his Church, which shines throughout with Gold, Silver, Marble, &c. and ’tis moreover adorn’d with very beautiful Paintings.

The Viceroy’s Palace is one of the noblest Structures in the World: The Beauty of the Architecture and the Disposition of the Apartments give the same Pleasure to the Spectator, as the magnificent Prospect the Viceroy has from a Balcony that ranges before the Windows, to which I never saw any thing equal for its Extent, or its agreeable Variety. The fine Gardens, the Harbour, the Arsenal, the lofty Hills, the terrible Mount Vesuvius, in short, the whole City of Naples, all, Madame, contribute to the Prospect from the Viceroy’s Palace. The Person who then enjoy’d that Dignity was the Cardinal Schrotenbach, not much belov’d by the Neapolitans, who shew’d a very public Concern for the Loss of the Count de Gallas his Predecessor. I question whether the Hatred they bore to this new Viceroy was well grounded, for several People own’d to me ingenuously, that he did every thing in his Power to make them happy. His Court perhaps, which was too melancholy, and not much frequented, did not please the Neapolitans, who love Grandeur. Besides, the Cardinal seldom appeared in public, whereas these People love to see their Viceroy often, and are fond to see him in Procession, with all the Pomp befitting a Nobleman, vested with a Dignity which they look upon as superior to any other whatsoever; for it must be observ’d, that a Neapolitan thinks nothing comparable to the Vice-royalty of Naples. And to shew what a grand Idea they have of this Dignity, they tell a Story, That a Neapolitan Lady, at an Audience she had of the King of Spain, wish’d, in order to complete his Happiness, that it would please God to make him one Day Viceroy of Naples.

I found in this City the Prince T——, whom I knew at Vienna. This Nobleman offer’d to introduce me to several Assemblies, with which he assur’d me I should not be displeas’d. I was glad to accept of his Offer, upon his Assurance that they consisted of quite other Sort of People than the Assemblies at Rome. I there made an Acquaintance with several Neapolitan Gentlemen, who were as civil to me as could be, and were so complaisant, as to carry me to those Parts of the City which were most remarkable. I was charm’d with the noble Walk, form’d by the Cours, along by the Sea-side, where I met with a great Number of Coaches, which seem’d to me to have more of the French Air than those of Rome, bating only, that they were all drawn by Mules, or very sorry Horses. After I had taken a Walk, I was invited to make one of a Party at Supper, where I was promis’d good Chear and good Company; which I freely accepted, and had the Pleasure of seeing the Performance as good as the Promise. The Entertainment was most delicate, and very amiable Ladies were also of the Party: I should have had an intire Pleasure in conversing with them; but, for Want of understanding Italian, I could only talk by Signs, a Method of Conversation very troublesome for Persons that would have desir’d nothing better than to hold a Discourse. After Supper they propos’d a Match at Pharao; the Prince T—— offer’d to cut the Cards, and had such a Run of bad Luck, that in a little time I saw him lose considerable Sums. I won to my Share 260 Pistoles, which that Gentleman sent me next Day, together with a great Basket of green Peas, and good Store of Fruit.

While I stay’d at Naples, I could not help going to see the famous Mount Vesuvius, of which I had heard so much Talk; but when I found myself at the Top of this dreadful Mountain, I repented of my Labour, for I imagin’d I should have been requited for the Pains I took, by the Sight of something marvellous, when I came to the Top; but so far from it, that I saw nothing but Smoak issuing from several very great Cavities, which it would not have been prudent to approach; and indeed I had no manner of Temptation to it, so that I return’d but little wiser than I went: What I remark’d in particular was, that as I struck my Foot against the Ground, I heard a Noise, very much like the Sound of an empty Cask; and that’s all I am able to tell you of Mount Vesuvius. As to the Form of this Mountain, it would be in vain to describe it, because it changes its Shape every time it throws out Fire. I found it much more painful to descend the Mount than I did to ascend it, for the Abundance of bak’d Clods, calcin’d Stones, sulphurous Matter, and the Heaps of Ashes, made the Descent so difficult, that when I came to the Bottom, I found myself so fatigued, that I could scarce remount my Horse: I perceiv’d that the soft Boots I wore, were intirely burnt, undoubtedly by the Sulphur and Lime, of which the Mountain is intirely compos’d. I was then told, that it had not cast out any Flames for a long time, but that this would infallibly happen very soon, because new Holes were discover’d in it, and that the Earth, which visibly broke away, began to sink. I thought such a Mountain was a very bad Neighbour to so considerable a City as Naples; yet the Neapolitans don’t seem to be much terrify’d at it. Indeed when the Flames actually break out, they are not the same Men; they then flock in Crouds to the Churches, every body falls to Prayer, and they make public Promises to change their Lives; but no sooner do they think all the Danger to be over, than they relapse into the same Degree of Debauchery as ever: In which they resemble those Wits, who, when they are in perfect Health, seem to set Death at Defiance; but when they feel its Approaches, discover such faint Hearts as give the Lye to their pretended Heroism.

Next Day I went to see the great Carthusian Church of St. Martin, which is most happily situated: The Church and Convent are Two stately Structures, which contain immense Wealth: The Treasury and Sacristy are full of noble Ornaments, Vessels of Gold and Silver, richly wrought and adorn’d for most part with precious Stones; and the Friars have very convenient Lodgings, every one having a Chamber, a Closet, a Library, and a little Garden to himself.

I went afterwards to Pozzuoli or Puteoli, where I saw a Road, or rather a Cavern, of a very singular Structure, which is cut out partly in the Rock, and partly in the Sand: ’Tis 30 or 40 Feet in Height, and broad enough for Two Coaches to go abreast. This Road, which is very long, receives no Light but from the Extremities, and a Hole in the middle; for which reason, in the greatest Part of it, one is forc’d to grope out the Way in the Dark, and to take Care to call out at proper Distances, to give Notice where one is, a Precaution without which People would be in Danger of running foul of one another.

After I had pass’d this Cavern, I found myself near that call’d la Grotte du Chien, or the Dog’s Grotto, which is but a narrow Cavern, and at most only Five Feet in Height, so that few People can stand upright in it. I there saw the Experiment usually made there: A Dog was laid flat with his Face to the Ground, which the very same Instant fell into Convulsions, and soon after shew’d no Sign at all of Life. Upon this he was thrown out of the Cavern as dead, when a Man took him, and put him into the Lake, which is but 25 or 30 Paces from the Cavern, and the Dog immediately recover’d his Spirits. After this Experiment was over, which I leave to be accounted for by wiser Heads than mine, I went to Puteoli, which in Truth has nothing of its ancient Splendor remaining. And I can’t imagine why Foreigners make it a Sort of Law to go to it; for there’s nothing now to be seen here, except old Ruins of no Signification.

The Impatience I had to see the famous City of Venice did not permit me to continue long at Naples, so that I stay’d there no longer than was necessary to receive an Answer to a Letter, which I wrote at my Arrival there, to the Count de S——, in Sicily; wherein I pretended, that Affairs of the utmost Importance had prevented me from having the Honour of joining him as soon as I wish’d; but you must know, that this was all mere Compliment of mine, for several of my Friends had put me very much out of Conceit with going to serve in Sicily. And the Letter, which the Count de S—— return’d in Answer to mine, completed my Disgust; for he wrote in a Style that I did not like, and the Lectures he was pleas’d to give me, made me resolve not to expose myself to the Danger of receiving a second Letter: I wrote to him therefore, that he was welcome to dispose of my Commission, and that my Affairs did not permit me to enter into the Service so soon. From that time I determin’d to continue my Travels, and to try my Fortune at the Spanish Court, to which I had for a long while been desirous of going; but you will soon perceive, that I was just as fortunate at that Court as I was at all the rest.

Having therefore no longer any Restraint upon me in my Travels, I chose to satisfy my Curiosity, and from Naples I set out for Venice. I made the best of my Way thro’ several little Towns of St. Peter’s Patrimony, in which there was nothing remarkable, besides sorry Victualling-houses, but stopp’d at Loretto, a little Town in the Marquisate of Ancona, the Suburbs whereof I thought very charming: The Town itself is very pretty, and advantagiously situate, being plac’d on a Hill, from whence is a noble Prospect of the Adriatic Sea, or Gulph of Venice. The Inhabitants of Loretto are all very rich, yet all their Trade consists in Strings of Beads, Images of the Virgin, and other Things of that Sort; but then there’s such a vast Resort of Pilgrims thither at every Turn, that the Money they lay out for Lodging, and for the Purchase of Images and Beads, is sufficient alone to maintain the Inhabitants handsomly.

You know, Madame, that the Business of a Pilgrimage to Loretto is to visit a Chapel, which was formerly the House where the Holy Virgin dwelt, when the Angel brought her the Tidings that she should be the Mother of the Saviour of the World: ’Tis surprizing at first Dash to find a House in Italy, which was formerly built in a Country so far off; but when one comes to be a little acquainted with History, the Astonishment presently subsides; for this House shifted its Place several times before it fix’d in the Marquisate of Ancona: It was first, they say, remov’d by Angels from Nazareth, which was really its original Country, into Dalmatia, where it stay’d Three Years. When that Term was expir’d, the said Angels remov’d it a second time, and carry’d it to the Territory of Recanati, in the Marquisate of Ancona: But as every Day produc’d some Murder or Robbery in those Parts, the Angels, alarm’d at such a Neighbourhood, carry’d away the House a third time, and plac’d it some Distance from the Spot, where it stands now. But there it did not stay long; for a Couple of Friars, to whom the Ground belong’d on which the House was plac’d at that time, having a warm Contention which should be the Proprietor of it, the Angels soon put an End to the Dispute, by removing the Building the fourth and last time, and putting it where it now stands: To do Honour to this House, and perhaps also to fix it here, Care was taken to build a very magnificent Church, in the middle of which ’tis inclos’d. The Walls of this Church are lin’d with white Marble, wrought in Basso-Relievo by the ablest Workmen of that Time; containing the whole History of the Holy Virgin: There are also between double Columns of the Corinthian Order Two Rows of Niches, one above the other, in the lowermost Row whereof are the Statues of the Prophets, and in the uppermost those of the Sybils; the whole being of admirable Workmanship. The House of the Virgin, which is commonly call’d Santa Casa, seem’d to me to be built of Brick: ’Tis much longer than broad: ’Tis divided by an Altar into Two unequal Parts, in the least whereof is the miraculous Statue of the Virgin, which stands in a Nich, bearing the Infant Jesus in her Right Arm. The Mother and Child have each a Triple Crown of Gold, adorn’d with precious Stones. The whole Habit consists of a long Mantle of Gold Brocade, embroider’d with Pearls and Diamonds. The Sanctuary is lighted by several Lamps of solid Gold, of a prodigious Size, particularly one, not only remarkable for its Bigness, but for the Richness of the Workmanship, which was sent to Loretto by the Republic of Venice, to fulfil a Vow of that Republic, during the time of a Plague, which made cruel Ravages in a great Part of the State of Venice.

As to the Divine Service, it may be said to be perform’d at Loretto, to the utmost Degree of Exactness; nor is there any thing more edifying than to see with what Devotion Pilgrims from all Countries come to visit the Santa Casa. They enter it upon their Knees, and devoutly kiss the Walls of it, as well as the Chimney, in which they pretend, the Holy Virgin dress’d her Meat. They also apply their Beads and Images to a Porringer, which, they say, was the very same that serv’d for the Holy Virgin’s Soup-Dish.

As I went out of the Church, I was carry’d to a great Room, where I saw immense Riches. There are 17 large Presses, all full of Jewels and Vessels, for most part of Gold, or of some more precious Matter. In this Room I also saw the Virgin’s numerous Suits of Apparel, of which she has Change for every Day in the Year, and so rich, that I declare I never saw any thing like it. After I had well view’d this costly Wardrobe, I went to see the Palace, which is a very spacious Building, not a great way from the Church. I was shew’d the Wardrobe of it, where is a deal of fine Tapistry, and I afterwards went to see the Arsenal, which is not very considerable.

When I had intirely satisfy’d my Curiosity at Loretto, I set out for Bologna, and went by the very Gates of Ancona, which is a Sea-Port in the Pope’s Dominions; but I made no Stay at it, because I had been told before-hand, there was nothing in it worth seeing, and went and din’d at Fano, a very pretty little Town, where I saw a Triumphal Arch with Three Gates, the Inscriptions whereof were quite defac’d, and I could find no body wise enough to let me into the History of this Fragment, which I thought very ancient.

From thence I went to Pesaro, a little Town not far from the Sea, and very much celebrated for the Fertility of its Soil. Here is a very large Square, and in the middle of it a magnificent Fountain. This City and the whole Duchy of Urbino were united to the Holy See during the Pontificate of Urban VIII. whose Statue, still to be seen in the great Square, was erected in Memory of that Event.

From Pesaro I went in a Day to Rimini, an Episcopal City which stood formerly, on the Sea-side; but has not had that Advantage for a long Time, the Sea being retir’d from it above half a Mile. This was the first Place that Cæsar took at the Beginning of the Civil War. The Emperor Augustus embellish’d it with a Triumphal Arch, which is to be seen here at this Day; as are also the Ruins of an Amphitheatre, and of a Marble Bridge well preserv’d, over which there are two Inscriptions that denote it was built by the Emperors Augustus and Tiberius. All the way from Rimini to Bologna I saw nothing remarkable.

[21]Bologna is an Archbishoprick, and the second in the Ecclesiastical State: ’Tis commonly call’d Bologna the Fat, because of its fruitful Soil. ’Twas heretofore independent of the Holy See, and had very advantagious Terms for submitting to it. It has a Right, among Others, of having always at Rome an Auditor pf the Rota, and an Ambassador; which is punctually observ’d: And the Pope, on his Part, has a Legate here, who is always a Cardinal, and lodges in the Palace, which indeed is ancient, but very spacious, and the Apartments are conveniently distributed. Over the Portico of this Palace is a Statue of Brass erected to the Honour of Gregory XIII. which is look’d upon as a Master-piece of Art, and weighs, as they say, 11,000 Pound; and on one Side of it is another of Boniface VIII. which is not a bad one.

As to the Manners of the Inhabitants of Bologna, I cannot but speak in Praise of them: They have all the Civility and Regard to Foreigners that one can wish for. There is Abundance of Gentry here, who live with more Grandeur and Freedom than in any other Part of Italy; and, to say all that I think of this City in one Word, if I were to settle in Italy, ’tis the only Town I would chuse to live in.

After some Stay here, I set out for Venice, in a Boat call’d The Messenger, which goes off from Bologna every Morning, or at least several times in a Week: ’Tis the most detestable Vessel that a Gentleman can be stow’d in; but you must go with that or none. We had not gone far, but, when we were still some Miles from Ferrara, we found the Water was too shallow, so that every Soul in the Boat was forc’d to go ashore, where we put our Baggage into Waggons, and our Persons into a sort of Coach, almost like the Stage-Coaches of France. The Outside of this Vehicle was so unpromising, that I profess I was very loth to get within it; besides, the Coachman seem’d to be fuddled, and his Horses being very sprightly, requir’d the Driver to be in his sober Senses. Nevertheless, having at that Time no other Way to proceed but to trust myself in that Carriage, or to foot it all the rest of the Journey, I did as others did, and we all ventur’d boldly into the Coach. We set out with such a Pace as made me terribly uneasy all the Way; yet our Coachman drove cleverly thro’ the most difficult Places, and carry’d us safe to Ferrara: But we had scarce enter’d that City, when our Charioteer, ’tis like to shew his Skill, made his Horses double their Pace just as we were to turn into a Street; whereupon they ran with such Fury, that, turning a little too short, one of the Wheels behind passing over a high Bank, our Coach overturn’d so suddenly, that the two Persons who sat next the Door were kill’d on the Spot, and the others dangerously wounded. For my own Part, I came off with a Blow on my Head, which made me have a swell’d Face for Seven or Eight Days. My Valet de Chambre, who sat over-against me, had his Wrist put out of Joint: And, in short, out of Eight of us that were in Company, there was not one but had some Harm. What surpriz’d me more than any thing was, that I had the least, which, perhaps, is the first time that I ever met with a Companion that came off worse than myself. I could have wish’d to have walk’d about Ferrara[22], but my swell’d Face hinder’d me; and therefore, without Loss of Time, I put my Baggage on board a Vessel which carry’d me to Venice[23], where I arriv’d at Midnight.

I kept my Chamber for some Days, till I was recovered of my Fall, and then took a Tour about the several Parts of the City, sometimes in the Gondola, and at other times on Foot. The former Method of Travelling, tho’ very pleasant, is apt to frighten such as are not us’d to it, who often think themselves in danger of drowning, especially at the Turnings out of one Street into another; for then one would think the Boat was ready to be swallow’d up in the Canal; which indeed might very well be the Case with Boatmen of less Understanding than the Gondoliers of Venice; but these are so dexterous that one never hears of any Misfortune.

The first Thing I went to see was the famous Church dedicated to St. Mark, the Protector of the Republic. The Front is adorn’d with Five Portico’s, of which the middle one is bigger and more spacious than the others. On the Top of it there are Four Horses of Brass, said to have formerly belong’d to a Chariot of the Sun, that serv’d for an Ornament to the Triumphal Arch which the Senate of Rome caus’d to be erected for the Emperor Nero, after the Victory he gain’d over the Parthians. The Emperor Constantine caus’d them to be remov’d afterwards to Constantinople, but the Venetians brought them back again, after they had made themselves Masters of that City. Besides these Four Horses, the Front of the Church is adorn’d with other Statues. The Roof consists of several Domes, over which there are very fine Crosses. The Inside of the Church is truly magnificent: The Walls are lin’d throughout with Marble; the Pavement is also of Marble of perfect Mosaic Workmanship; and the Roof is lin’d in the same manner.

From thence I went to the Palace of the Doge, the Architecture of which I took to be very irregular. The Hall where the Nobles meet, is a prodigious large Room: The Doge’s Throne, which is plac’d at one End of it, is higher than the rest by some Steps: There the Nobles sit upon Benches fronting the Throne, which form Eleven Rows, or Walks, wide enough for a Person to pass easily between them: The Throne and the Seats of the Nobles are very plain: The Beauty of this Room consists intirely in Pictures that are worth seeing: There is one that represents the Taking of Constantinople by the Venetians; and on the other Side is the History of Pope Alexander III. and of the Emperor Frederic Barbarossa, with the Pictures of the several Doges.

There is a large Square call’d The Broglio, before the Doge’s Palace, where the Nobles commonly take the Air; and tho’ there be no Covering to it, nor any Verdure, yet ’tis very pleasant because of the Neighbourhood of the Sea, the Prospect of which is boundless and most delightful. The Resort of Ships, Galleys, and Gondolas, continually coming in and out here, affords another Scene, which is the more amusing because of its Variety. Besides this, one has the Pleasure too of discovering several little Islands that are said to be inhabited by none but Fryars, who have magnificent Churches and Convents there. At that End of this Square, next to the great Canal, there are Two fine Pillars of Marble; on one of which are the Arms of the Republic, viz. a Winged Lyon; and on the second is the Statue of St. Theodore, the ancient Patron of the Republic.

I had not the Honour of seeing the Doge, and therefore shall say nothing of him, only that he seems to me but an imaginary Prince, and in Effect no more than the First Slave of the Republic. All the Lustre he has, is to be at the Head of the Senate and the Nobles in all the Assemblies and Ceremonies; for the rest, his Credit, if he may be said to have any, is extremely bounded. The Ceremony in which he appears with all his Splendor, is that which is perform’d every Year at Venice, upon Ascention-Day: Then the Doge, at the Head of the Senate and all the Nobility, goes on board a stately Vessel call’d the Bucentaure; and when he is advanc’d a little way into the Gulph, he throws a Gold Ring into the Sea, and says, We marry thee, O Sea, in Token of that True and Perpetual Dominion which the Republic has over Thee. And indeed, the Venetians look upon the Adriatic Sea as their peculiar Property.

The Venetian Nobles are as scrupulous in Matters of State, as the modern Romans are in those of Ceremony; insomuch that they break off all Correspondence with any Man that keeps Company with an Ambassador; of which I myself had Experience. As I had known M. de Q—— at the King of England’s Court at Hanover, and M. G—— at the Court of Vienna, I thought that when I saw them return’d to Venice, I could not do better than to pay them a Visit, in order to be introduc’d into good Families. I went to them accordingly, and was receiv’d with all possible Civility by those Gentlemen, who next Day return’d my Visit, when I observ’d in the Course of the Conversation, which was not very long, that Notice had been taken of my being so often at the House of the Imperial Ambassador; and I, for my own Part, gave them to understand, that I was not dispos’d to make a Sacrifice of the Ambassador’s Family in Compliment to them. The Person who then resided there with that Character was the Count de Colloredo, at whose House there was an Assembly every Night of all the Foreigners of most Distinction at Venice. He had with him the Countess of Colloredo, whom, no doubt, you have seen at the House of her Brother M. de Blaspiel, when she was the Widow of the Count de Collonitz. The Ambassador and his Lady were perfectly complaisant to all Persons that came to their House, and there was every Day very good Company. I made an Aquaintance there with the Marchioness de R——, Daughter of the celebrated Madame de M——. This Lady had left the Court of France and her Family, and, after having travell’d thro’ several Countries, came and settled at Venice. I confess I was heartily concern’d to see a Lady, who must have been very amiable in her Time, reduc’d, by a natural Uneasiness of her Temper, which perhaps too was Hereditary, to lead so strolling a Life.

While I stay’d at Venice, the Hereditary Prince of Modena came and spent a few Days there. The Venetians made several Entertainments for him, which gave me the Pleasure of seeing the Venetian Ladies in all their Dresses, or else I should have gone away without seeing one of them; for the Jealousy of their Husbands confines them almost always within Doors, so that ’tis impossible to see them, but in the Time of the Carnival, or on some Days of Festival. While the Prince of Modena stay’d at Venice, there was a sort of Carnival, which gave the Town an Air of Gaiety that is not common to it. I was surpriz’d at the magnificent Dresses of the Ladies, especially at the Number of their Jewels; for as to the rest of their Habit, there was something odd in it, as there is always in the Dress of the Italians. They were very constant at the Balls which were made for that Prince, who could not fail of being pleas’d to see how fond the Republic was to caress him. They also entertain’d him with a Diversion call’d the Regatte, which is a Contention of small Vessels to out-sail one another, and makes a very pleasant Shew. They are divided into Four little Squadrons, which are distinguish’d from one another by little Flags or Streamers of several Colours, and every Squadron is conducted by a great Bark richly gilded and adorn’d with very fine Paintings. The Seamen who are on board these Vessels, are always dress’d after a very gallant Manner: These Squadrons strive which shall gain the Prize appointed for that which arrives first at the Mark. The Prince of Modena seem’d to be mightily delighted with the Entertainment. In a few Days after it, he set out from Venice. I thought also of proceeding in my Travels thro’ Italy, and went to Padua with the same Gondoliers that had serv’d me while I stay’d at Venice.

[24]Padua is an Episcopal City, famous for its University; and more ancient, they say, than Rome and Venice. ’Tis thought to have been founded by Antenor the Trojan Prince, whose Tomb is still to be seen there. Its Soil is extremely fertile, and from thence came the Proverb, Bologne la Grasse, mais Padoue la passe, i. e. Bologne the Fat, but Padua the Fatter. As to the outside Appearance of the Town, I took such a cursory View of it indeed, that what I saw of it gave me no great Idea of it; for where-ever I came, every thing had a very dirty Hue: The Pavement was much out of Order, and the Houses of a despicable Taste; but I thought the Churches of St. Anthony and St. Justina really magnificent.

The first, where lies the Body of St. Anthony, is fac’d with Basso-Relievo’s of white Marble, representing the principal Miracles wrought by that Saint. The Altar is richly adorn’d, and illuminated with Thirty-nine great Silver Lamps that burn Night and Day.

St. Justina’s Church, tho’ far inferior to St. Anthony’s in point of Magnificence, is one of the finest in all Italy. The High Altar is, in all respects, a finish’d Piece of Work, and is intirely of Marble; as are also Twenty-four other Altars in the same Church, every one of which is of a particular Architecture. Round the Choir are Pews adorn’d with Basso-Relievo’s, representing the Prophecies contain’d in the Old Testament relating to Jesus Christ; and the fulfilling of them in the New. On one Side of this Church is a huge Monastery, which has Six Cloysters, several Courts, and a Number of very magnificent Gardens. I went afterwards to see the Hall of the Town-house, which is one of the largest in Europe, being 256 Feet in Length, and 86 in Breadth: The Roof is very fine, and the Workmanship thereof bold, having no Pillar to support it; but the Fault of it is ’tis pretty dark, though I know not what should hinder its having more Light, the Situation of it being such that it might be procur’d for a very small Charge.

From Padua I went to Modena, by the Way of Ferrara and Bologna. The Soil of Padua being very marshy, the Roads are terrible, and I had as much to do as ever I had in my Life to reach to Ferrara, where I took Water, for fear that I had the same bad Way to get to Bologna. The very Day that I arriv’d at the latter, I set out for Modena, to which is a very plain Road thro’ a most agreeable Country, where the Eye is feasted at every Turn with a pleasing Variety.

Modena is the Capital of a Duchy of the same Name. This was the City in which Mark Anthony besieg’d Brutus, after the Murder of Cæsar. The Dukes of Modena are of the Family of Est, and depend on the Empire. I had the Honour of making my Compliments to the Duke Regent, who receiv’d me in the most obliging Manner that could be. He was still in Mourning for the Empress Leonora, Mother to the Emperor. He receiv’d me standing: As soon as ever I had made my Obeisance he put on his Hat, forc’d me to put on mine, talk’d kindly to me for a good while, and I went away very well satisfy’d with my Audience.

As I had no Design to stay long at Modena, I did but glance over the several Quarters of this City, in which I found no Structure, either sacred or prophane, that deserves a Traveller’s Regard. The Streets of Modena are narrow, nasty, and ill-pav’d, the Street of the Course being the only one that is tolerable. The Duke’s Palace will be grand and magnificent when finish’d; as much as I saw of it carry’d up, being sufficient to form a great Idea of what the rest will be. The Duke’s Apartments are spacious and richly furnish’d: There was one of them fitting up for Madamoiselle de Valois, the Daughter of the Duke of Orleans the Regent, now the Princess of Modena, who they expected would soon be their Sovereign; and all Hands were at work to give her a Reception worthy of what she was already, and of what she was like to be. This Princess had need be Mistress of her Temper to bear the kind of Life they live at the Court of Modena, to which none can compare for Tranquillity; insomuch that it may be said, the very Gloominess of it is enough to incline a Person to Melancholy, especially one that comes to it from so gay a Court as that of France. In short, the Life of the Court of Modena is the Life of a Convent: When they rise, they go to Mass, and dine betimes; after Dinner they take a Turn out for the Air; in the Evening they play for some Time, sup at Eight a Clock, and by Ten they are in Bed. This, Madame, is the common Custom at the Court of Modena; at least they liv’d thus when I was there: but the Arrival of the Princess perhaps might make some Alteration in that irksome Repetition of the same thing over again in Life, which is by no means suitable to a Sovereign Court.

From Modena I went to Reggio, a City and Bishoprick between Parma and Modena. This Town is noted for its Fairs, which are said to have some Resemblance with ours at Francfort and Leipsic. I have been told, that during these Fairs there’s always a noble Opera perform’d in this Town.

From Reggio I struck into the Road to Parma, an Episcopal City, and Capital of a Duchy of the same Name. The Cathedral is a magnificent Pile, and the Dome is adorn’d with Paintings, which are much admir’d by the best Judges. As to the rest of the City, it appear’d to me to be large and very well built. Its Inhabitants are polite, generous and ingenious, and there’s a good Number of Nobility here, but they live so much after the Italian manner, that ’tis not an easy Matter to get acquainted with them.

The Court of Parma is but little, if any thing, gayer than that of Modena: I was perfectly well receiv’d by the then Duke, viz. Francis Farnese, who, by a Dispensation, of which there are few Examples in the Catholic Church, had marry’d his Brother’s Widow. This Princess is call’d Dorothy of Neubourg: She is Sister of the Elector Palatine, and had by her first Husband Elizabeth Farnese, the present Queen of Spain: She having no Issue by her second, the Duchy of Parma, by the Death of Duke Francis Feb. 22, 1727, devolv’d to his Brother Anthony Farnese, who marry’d Henrietta Princess of Modena. As there is Reason to believe that this Marriage too will prove sterile, the famous Farnese Family, which owes its Advancement to Paul III. will be extinct in this Anthony. The said Pope, a little after his Exaltation to the Pontificate, gave the Investiture of the Dominions of Parma and Placentia to Lewis Farnese his Bastard, who marry’d a Bastard Daughter of the Emperor Charles V. yet this double Bastardy has not been a Bar to the matching of this with the chief Families in Europe.

I stay’d Three Days at Parma, and then proceeded on my Journey; I pass’d thro’ Piacenza or Placentia, so call’d from its pleasant Situation; Nature having not form’d a finer Country any where than that betwixt this City and Parma: Here is a very fine Castle, and a noble Square, in which is the Court of Justice. The Houses are very well built, but not lofty, tho’ indeed it would not signify any thing if they were higher, it being so thinly inhabited, that it looks like a Desert; for sometimes one shall walk a long while in this City, and not meet a Soul.

I stay’d but a Day at Piacensa, and went directly to Milan, the capital City of one of the finest Duchies in the World: ’Tis one of the most beautiful Cities in all Italy, and the most magnificent in Buildings, both sacred and profane. The Metropolitan Church is, next to St. Peter’s at Rome, one of the finest Pieces of Work that can be imagin’d: ’Tis all white Marble within and without, and there’s a great Number of Statues of the same. The Roof is supported by 160 Columns of white Marble, which are each valued at 10,000 Crowns. The Tower at the Top of it is also worth visiting, its Situation being so advantagious, that one sees several Cities from it, and a good Part of Lombardy.

There are several other noble Churches, of which I don’t propose to give you a Description, nor of many other elegant Structures, that are likewise richly furnish’d; for the Milanese Gentry love Magnificence: Their Apartments have a certain grand and noble Air, which the Italians for most part rarely affect. The People of Quality here are very sociable: There’s an Assembly every Night at one House or other by Turns, and in all Places there’s great Freedom. Every one has his favourite Amusement; some chat, others play. They commonly sup together, after the Gaming is over, and sometimes they have a sort of Ball. You perceive, Madame, by what I have already said of Milan, that ’tis a very agreeable Place to live in: I forgot to mention one distinguishing Quality of the Milanese, which is, that they are not at all jealous, a Fault that seems so predominant in the Temper of the Italians, that I cannot imagine how they escape it.

You must know, that never was City subject to more Revolutions than Milan: It has been besieg’d 40 times, and 22 times taken, but was never worse treated than it was by the Emperor Frederic I. surnam’d Barbarossa. This Prince, after he had taken it, caus’d it to be demolish’d, and sow’d it with Salt; only a few Churches were spar’d. The Duchy of Milan, which, by its Situation, lies convenient for many Sovereigns, has always prov’d a Source of Wars for Italy: You have read no doubt in several Histories, what Misfortunes this Duchy has entail’d upon the neighbouring Provinces, especially during the Reigns of Charles V. and Francis I. King of France. The latter having demanded the Milanese for his second Son the Duke of Orleans, the Emperor promis’d to give him the Investiture of it, but he was so little a Slave to his Word, that he gave himself no Trouble to discharge his Promise, which bred an implacable Hatred between those Two Monarchs: It was indeed suspended more than once, but ’twas always to gain a Breathing-time, for they hated each other as long as they liv’d.

After I had stay’d awhile at Milan, I set out for the Court of Savoy. The first City I stopped at was Casal, formerly one of the strongest and most important Fortresses in Italy: The Citadel especially was by all good Judges look’d upon as one of the Wonders of the World. Lewis XIV. who had Possession of it for a long time, caus’d such fortifications to be made there, as are hardly to be match’d. That Monarch observing the Bigness of the Buildings, caus’d an Intrenchment and a second Rampart to be made, which form’d a new Bastion in the Centre of the first; but now there remain only some Vestigies of those fine Works; the Fortifications both of the City and Citadel having been demolish’d in 1695, according to a Capitulation made between the Germans and the French, when the former made themselves Masters of the Place.

Casal belong’d heretofore to the Dukes of Mantua, but now, by the Emperor’s Grant thereof, it belongs to the King of Sardinia.

I went in one Day from Casal to[25]Turin, the capital City of Piedmont, the See of an Archbishop, and the chief Seat of the Duke of Savoy. ’Tis not very large, but is in the main a very pretty Town, the Streets being broad and strait, the Houses generally uniform, and intermingled with noble Edifices: Here is also a Citadel, one of the strongest that can be imagin’d, every Part of it being countermin’d. There is a Well of a very singular Construction, which, tho’ very deep, is so contrived, that several Horses may go down and up again, without meeting one another: This is perform’d by means of a double Stair-case without Steps, which winds so many times, that it makes the Descent easy.