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The Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics

FRANKLIN BEECH

Reading edition

PRACTICAL COLOURIST AND CHEMIST

ILLUSTRATED BY FORTY-FOUR ENGRAVINGS

LONDON SCOTT, GREENWOOD & CO. 19 LUDGATE HILL, E.C.

1901

[All rights reserved]

PREFACE.

In writing this little book the author believes he is supplying a want which most Students and Dyers of Cotton Fabrics have felt—that of a small handbook clearly describing the various processes and operations of the great industry of dyeing Cotton.

The aim has not been to produce a very elaborate treatise but rather a book of a convenient size, and in order to do so it has been necessary to be brief and to omit many matters that would rightfully find a place in a larger treatise, but the author hopes that nothing of importance has been omitted. The most modern processes have been described in some detail; care has been taken to select those which experience shows to be thoroughly reliable and to give good results.

FRANKLIN BEECH.

May, 1901.

CONTENTS.

PAGE

CHAPTER I.

STRUCTURE AND CHEMISTRY OF THE COTTON FIBRE1

Action of Alkalies6

Action of Acids on Cellulose9

Action of Sulphuric Acid on Cotton10

Action of Hydrochloric Acid11

Action of Nitric Acid12

Action of Oxidising Agents on Cellulose or Cotton16

CHAPTER II.

SCOURING AND BLEACHING OF COTTON23

Stains and Damages in Bleached Goods50

CHAPTER III.

DYEING MACHINERY AND DYEING MANIPULATIONS53

Hand Dyeing53

Dyeing Machines57

Dyeing, Slubbing, Sliver or Carded Cotton and Wool58

Cop Dyeing64

CHAPTER IV.

THE PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE OF COTTON DYEING82

(1) Direct Dyeing85

(2) Direct Dyeing followed by Fixation with Metallic Salts112

(3) Direct Dyeing followed by Fixation with Developers128

(4) Direct Dyeing followed by Fixation with Couplers139

(5) Dyeing on Tannic Mordant147

(6) Dyeing on Metallic Mordants156

(7) Production of Colour Direct upon Cotton Fibres181

(8) Dyeing Cotton by Impregnation with Dye-stuff Solution198

CHAPTER V.

DYEING UNION (MIXED COTTON AND WOOL) FABRICS208

CHAPTER VI.

DYEING HALF SILK (COTTON-SILK, SATIN) FABRICS225

Method of Dyeing 225

CHAPTER VII.

OPERATIONS FOLLOWING DYEING239

Washing, Soaping, Drying 239

CHAPTER VIII.

TESTING OF THE COLOUR OF DYED FABRICS257

CHAPTER IX.

EXPERIMENTAL DYEING AND COMPARATIVE DYE TESTING262

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

FIG.PAGE

1. Cotton Fibre5

1A. Cross-section of Cotton Fibre5

2. Mercerised Cotton Fibre7

2A. Cross-section of Mercerised Cotton Fibre7

3. Silkified Cotton Fibre9

3A. Cross-section of Silkified Cotton Fibre9

4. Mather & Platt's Low-pressure Bleaching Kier31

5. Mather & Platt's Yarn-bleaching Kier49

6. Rectangular Dye-tank54

7. Round Dye-tub54

8. Section of Dye-vat56

9. Delahunty's Dyeing Machine58

10. Obermaier Dyeing Machine59

11. Holliday's Yarn-dyeing Machine60

12. Klauder-Weldon Dyeing Machine62

13. Graemiger Cop-dyeing Machine65

14. Graemiger Cop-dyeing Machine66

15. Beaumont's Cop-dyeing Machine67

16. Warp-dyeing Machine70

17. Warp-dyeing Machine71

18. Dye-jiggers72

19. Dye-jigger73

20. Jig Wince75

21. Cloth-dyeing Machine76

22. Dye Beck77

23. Holliday's Machine for Hawking Cloth78

24. Continuous Dyeing Machine79

25. Padding Machine80

26. Padding Machine81

27. Dye-tub for Paranitroaniline Red191

28. Padding Machine for Paranitroaniline Red192

29. Developing Machine for Paranitroaniline Red194

30. Indigo Dye-vat for Cloth199

31. Squeezing Rollers240

32. Yarn-washing Machine243

33. Dye-house Washing Machine244

34. Cloth-washing Machine245

35. Cloth-washing Machine247

36. Washing and Soaping Vats248

37. Steaming Cottage249

38. Steaming and Ageing Chamber250

39. Hydro-extractor251

40. Hydro-extractor252

41. Automatic Yarn-dryer253

42. Truck Yarn-dryer254

43. Drying Cylinders255

44. Experimental Dye-bath263

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