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The Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics

Chapter IV · (continued 3)

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The usual methods of applying all the other dye-woods, to obtain scarlets to reds with Brazil wood, Lima wood, peach wood; or yellows with fustic, quercitron or Persian berries, is to first prepare the cotton with sumac, then mordant with alumina acetate or tin crystals (the latter gives the brightest shades), then dye in a decoction of the dye-woods. Sometimes the cotton is boiled in a bath of the wood when it takes up some of the dye-wood, next there is added alumina acetate or tin crystals and the dyeing is continued when the colour becomes developed and fixed upon the cotton.

Iron may be used as a mordant for any of these dye-woods but it gives dull sad shades.

Chrome mordants can also be used and these produce darker shades than tin or alumina mordants.

As practically all these dye-woods are now not used by themselves it has not been deemed necessary to give specific recipes for their application, on previous pages several are given showing their use in combination with other dyes.

The dye-stuff Dinitroso-resorcine or Solid green O is used along with iron mordants for producing fast greens and with chrome mordants for producing browns to a limited extent in cotton dyeing. The following recipes give the details of the process.

Green.—Steep the cotton yarn or cloth in the following liquor until well impregnated, then dry: 3 gallons iron liquor (pyrolignite of iron), 22° Tw. gallons of water, ¾ gallon acetic acid, 12° Tw., 2 lb. ammonium chloride. Then pass the cotton through a warm bath of 3 oz. phosphate of soda and 4 oz. chalk per gallon, then enter into a dye-bath containing 6 lb. Solid green O. Work as described for dyeing alizarine red. For darker greens of a Russian green shade use 10 lb. of solid green O, in the dye-bath.

Brown.—A fine brown is got by steeping the cotton in a bath of 8 lb. Solid green O, 6¾ gallons water, 1½ gallons ammonia and 2 lb. acetate of chrome; dry, then pass through a soap-bath, wash and dry.

Deep Olive Brown.—Mix 8 lb. Solid green O and 4½ lb. borax with 6 gallons water, add ½ lb. Turkey-red oil, 5 lb. ammonia, then 2 gallons water and 1½ lb. copper-soda solution and another 2 gallons water. Steep the cotton in this, dry, soap well and wash. The copper-soda solution is made from 10 lb. chloride of copper (75° Tw.), 5 lb. tartaric acid, 12 lb. caustic soda (75° Tw.) and 4 lb. glycerine.

Khaki.—Make the dye liquor from 14 lb. Solid green O, ½ lb. Alizarine yellow N, 1 lb. caustic soda (36° Tw.), ½ lb. Turkey-red oil and 8 gallons water. To this add 2½ lb. acetate of chrome (32° Tw.), 2¼ lb. copper-soda solution and 4 gallons water.

Sage Green.—Use 1¼ lb. Solid green O, 3 lb. caustic soda (36° Tw.), ½ lb. Ceruleine, ½ lb. Turkey-red oil, 1 gallon water to which is added 2½ lb. acetate of chrome (32° Tw.) and 2¼ lb. copper-soda solution dissolved in 4 gallons water.

Pale Brown.—Use 4 lb. Solid green O, 2½ lb. borax, 3 lb. ammonia, ½ lb. Turkey-red oil, 6 gallons of water and 1½ lb. copper-soda solution dissolved in 2 gallons water.

Pale Fawn Brown.—The dye-bath is made from ½ lb. Alizarine, 1¼ lb. Solid green O, 1½ lb. borax, ½ lb. Turkey-red oil and 5 gallons of water to which is added 1½ lb. acetate of chrome (32° Tw.), 1½ lb. copper-soda solution and 4 gallons water. In all cases the cotton is steeped in the dye liquors until thoroughly impregnated, then the excess liquor is wrung out, the cotton dried, then passed through a soap bath, washed well and dried.

Dark Brown.—Place the cotton in a lukewarm bath of 25 lb. cutch and 1½ lb. copper sulphate; work for half an hour, then steep for six hours, then lift, wring and enter into a bath of 3¼ lb. bichromate of potash at 160° F. for twenty minutes. Then wash and dry.

Yellow Brown.—Make a bath with 14 lb. cutch and ½ lb. copper sulphate; work in this bath for four hours at 120° F., then pass into a bath of 2 lb. copperas and ½ lb. chalk, work for half an hour in the cold, then pass into a hot bath of 2½ lb. bichromate of potash at 150° F. for half an hour.

Dark Brown.—Make a dye-bath with 15 lb. cutch, 2 lb. logwood extract and 2 lb. fustic extract; work the cotton in this at 160° F. for three hours, then pass into a cold bath of 1 lb. copperas and ¼ lb. chalk for half an hour, then into a bath of 3 lb. bichromate of potash for half an hour at 150° F., then wash and dry.

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