HUNTING A HOME IN BRAZIL. (continued 7)

My old friend, the Catholic priest, who is vicar of this district, has given me a letter to a friend in Xiririca, and has likewise procured another from a gentleman here to a party in Iporanga, so that I will get assistance in both places, should I fail to meet Senor Street.

The priest belongs to the order of Friars, and signs himself accordingly Frei, in the prefix to his name. He has gone out to attend to his duties at the church, leaving us at his house without seeming to expect that any of us took any interest in attending the services. The long flowing gown, with a monk’s hood hanging on the shoulders, is worn habitually, as indeed the clerical attire is the common dress of priests everywhere in this country; but when he goes to the church, the ceremonial vestments are taken by his page to be used in the services.

I went to the church to-day for the purpose of witnessing the proceedings of the festa by the vicar; and with the assistance of a number of persons who were attired for the occasion, he went through various incomprehensible manœuvres, that served to attract and interest the large concourse of people. At the close of these performances, rockets and other sonorous fire-works were exploded most profusely.

In the afternoon there was a grand procession of these demonstrative people, in honor of our Lady of Conception, (Nossa Senhora de Conceicão.)

The figure of a female seated on a platform, that rested on a sort of hand-barrow, was carried upon the shoulders of 301four men, and another figure, representing some of the saints, supported in like manner, accompanied it, while a large rich awning was hoisted upon the ends of six poles in the hands of as many men, under which the old vicar and a brother priest moved forward with certain symbols, among which was a silver cross encircled by a halo of brightness. This other priest is also a friar, and gives his name in full as Frei José de Loro, Director de Tijuco Preto, Ministerio Apostolico Capuchinho. He is from Italy, as is also the old vicar, the former being in this country only eight months, while the latter has been here twenty years, and says he has almost forgotten his native tongue.

Formed into line, with music in full blast, they marched in much apparent solemnity with their heads bowed, throughout the principal streets of the town, accompanied by most of the men, women and children that were present. On the return of the procession, the explosion of fire-works was deafening, and had an appearance in mid-heaven like the bursting of bombshells, when a hot engagement of artillery is progressing.

An address was subsequently made in the church by the vicar, but was not adapted to my limited comprehension of the language.

The proportion of men present was small, and for the most part scrawny specimens, with very shabby dress, having in many instances a sort of cloak (ponché) which covers all other deficiencies of dress. The absence of men having better physique is attributable to their apprehension of being recruited for the army, which induces them to forego the indulgence of public festivities.

The number of women in attendance was very large, and with few exceptions of mixed blood, either of the Indian or negro. Some of them were comely in form and neatly dressed, but far the greater number were downright ugly. Here, more even than at other places, the old and the young have the glands of the neck enlarged, constituting goitre, 302or, as called here, “papo.” This affection is ascribed to various causes; humidity of the atmosphere, bad diet, or deficiency of nutritious food, sleeping in exposed situations, combined with the water of the serras, are the usual concomitants.

In the vicinity of the Alps, it is known to prevail extensively, and is attributed by some writers to the use of snow-water. But here we have no snow-water, while there exists a geological formation in these serras which corresponds to that mountainous region; and it is highly probable that there exists some peculiar mineralogical principle in the water coming from these elevations which produces this result.

The better class of people are rarely seen with it, yet even those with all the comforts of life are not entirely exempt when living in these situations adjacent to a serra.

The old vicar has a woman with several children in the house with him, who is housekeeper and without a husband; while the youngest of the children indicates clearly its paternity.

Those acquainted with the habits of some of the priesthood in Brazil will not regard this allusion as indelicate, or involving any thing unbecoming.

Though there were servants about the house, the vicar insisted upon doing most that was required for us.

Tuesday, January 2, 1866.

Soon after I arose this morning, my old camarada, Senor Pedro, came in to make the announcement that all was ready for the anticipated voyage, and attributed his failure to go on yesterday to the straying of a mule. But my inference is, that he could not bear the idea of leaving this festa and grand procession, and availed himself of a subterfuge, to quiet my impatience under the delay beyond his time appointed for starting.

I was supplied with a cup of coffee, and gave my old 303friend, the vicar, a heartfelt expression of my thanks for his kindness; when he gave me his best wishes for a prosperous voyage, and embraced me after the Brazilian manner,^[28] with a warmth which made me feel that I was leaving a real friend.

In repairing to the house of Senor Pedro, he provided some farina, stew of beef, and big hominy, with bananas, for my breakfast, which were despatched with the aid of a spoon, as knives and forks seemed to be no part of his household furniture. This finished, I found that all the family were preparing to set out with us, as we were to go that day to a place owned by this man some twenty miles distant in the country. The horses for the women were brought through the house and taken into the back yard for them to mount. They soon sallied forth all astride, with their skirts so arranged as to cover their nether extremities, and, having drawers with straps under their feet, they were in regular trim for the expedition.

The old woman and three grown daughters were all mounted after this style, and seemed to use their stirrups and manage their horses as if they had been used to this mode of travelling. Their saddles are somewhat different from those used by the men, having a quilted seat, which serves as a cushion to protect them in riding astride.

Upon going out of town, we fell in with another party of women who had a more genteel appearance, and were seated in the ordinary way upon side-saddles,—one of them being especially well provided with horse and equipments. She was a young lady, very tidily dressed, and rather the best-looking woman seen in this section. One of the women of this party was the wife of a son of my old camarada, and 304her husband was carrying their only child before him on his mule.

The third member of this party was the mother of the other two women, but they are all of a very different stamp from the family to which they have become connected by marriage, and I could not but think they viewed our party of women astride of their horses as presenting a disgusting aspect. One of the daughters of my escort had a young child, and carried it most of the way in her arms, while her mother, an old woman of fifty years, carried it the rest of the time. These women rode the entire twenty miles astride without dismounting, and did not show any particular fatigue on arrival.

Within half a mile of Paranapanema we entered the forest, and, for three miles, the soil was red, and would certainty produce a fair yield of any thing that might be cultivated.

This land lay remarkably level for the general character of the country, and yet none of it has ever been cleared up. Passing through this, the soil was of a dark aspect, with a clay basis, and, though sundry ravines interrupted the configuration of the surface, there was a great deal of land lying very favorably. Very little of it has been brought into use, but the few specimens of corn seen along the road presented a good appearance.

Upon approaching the place of Senor Pedro, a considerable river, São José, came into view; and he informs me that there is a water-fall of great extent, ten or twelve miles below, which is surrounded by timber, and yet has a road passing very near to it. This might be turned to account, should any one be tempted to locate in this drear and rude wilderness.

After our arrival, I accompanied Senor Pedro to examine his corn, and found it growing very luxuriantly—the stalks being, in most parts, ten feet high, and standing close upon the ground. His calculation is for thirty bushels to the 305acre, but it is likely to exceed that yield, if the earing is at all proportionate to the present prospect.

The country just at this place is very hilly, and there seems to be a great preference to the hillsides for planting, from the fact doubtless that the soil is better than on the level land.

There are pumpkin vines growing finely in this corn, and cucumber vines, and watermelon vines were seen in a patch near by growing well; yet none of them are sufficiently advanced to determine the result.

The few and isolated settlements seen upon our route to-day, as well as the one at which I am stopped, show very little regard for the comforts of life, or very little advance in civilized life.

If a picture of the interior of this domicil could be adequately portrayed, it would be a rich legacy to posterity, to dwell upon the meagre and filthy surroundings of this able-bodied family. In eating, the victuals were put on a towel upon a bench, and I occupied the only seat that was afforded by the establishment, while the fare was limited to farina, pork, and big hominy, with coffee.

I have looked at the bright side of society in this province, and now the opportunity is afforded to view and study another phase of the people; but the transition is sad to contemplate, and worse still to realize by actual participation.

The only redeeming feature about the place is a few very fat hogs in the yard, and there has not been seen anywhere more fat on an animal than covers one of these hogs.

The mules are also in fine condition, and most excellent travellers. What is out of doors meets the requirements of life very well, but enter the house and all is squalid wretchedness and beastly slovenliness. The people fare worse than the brutes.

My old camarada having me now in his power, informed me that it would be necessary to take one more horse than 306was expected in his arrangement with Mr. Bennaton, and that instead of going for ten dollars as he had agreed, that he must have seventeen dollars and fifty cents. Upon my objecting he then named fifteen dollars, saying that he would have to take provisions for us and the animals; and, under all the circumstances, I acceded to this proposition, as it is the exact amount supplied by Mr. Bennaton for expenses.

Wednesday, January 3, 1866.

I brought out my blanket and pillow last night to facilitate the preparations of mine host for my night’s rest; and a rude bedstead with cords of the sipo vine, over which were some matting, a horse-blanket, and a sheet, gave promise of comfort. But the numerous fleas beset me so that I was induced to strip off shirt and drawers and wrap up in the blanket to protect myself against them. Getting once clear of these pests, and having the woollen blanket next my person, it was impracticable for them to make an entrance, as their legs get tangled in the wool so as prevent jumping, or even crawling to any considerable extent.

It is somewhat remarkable that no bedbugs or chinches have been seen in this country, and it is fortunate for the lower classes (who are so filthy) that this insect does not propagate here to any large extent.

I am sitting upon my trunk writing, while the corn is being shelled and other arrangements are progressing for our outfit. My two tin-plates, and knife and fork, have been brought forth for use here, and upon the voyage. I gave my friends at Paranapanema upon separating a can of tomatoes, and one of partridge, reserving two cans of tomatoes and one of mutton for this trip; and, from the present aspect of affairs, they are likely to be in urgent demand, as supplies are scarce.

One of the men working on this place has shot a large monkey, and these people tell me that these ugly animals 307are frequently eaten here, but I hope it will not be served up for our trip.

One of the advantages I hoped to derive in being separated entirely from those speaking English was improvement in the use of the Portuguese language, but these caipiras have such a bad pronunciation that I have considerably greater difficulty in communicating with them than with educated Brazilians, and there is not much encouragement to learn any of the language from them, so that I will talk no more than is needed.

After a great trial to my patience, we started at noon, and I found the son was to accompany the old man as my escort for the voyage. Making a halt at the son’s house, I found a cucumber lying on the table, and getting some salt, it was enjoyed very much. This is a new place, as is also that of the wife’s family near by, and there are a number of new shanties through this obscure tract of country, which have been built as retreats for those getting out of the way of recruiting officers. I witnessed the modus operandi of dodging the issue this morning, in the movements of a man and his wife.

She was mounted astride of one horse, and sundry supplies of eatables were packed in panniers upon another tackey, while the man went afoot with his gun. Upon inquiry as to their destination, the only answer was, that they were going into the forest to sojourn for a time.

The country passed through to-day was for the most part hilly and very poor, having the native pine in great number and of large size, which here, as its namesake with us, is an indication generally of thin soil. The wood of this is more like the soft white pine, and not much used.

An hour before sundown we reached a house, when my escort intimated to me we would stop for the night. I suggested that we had made a very short journey, being only fifteen miles, and that it was some time until night; yet he said there was no house, water, or pasture to be found at 308any convenient distance, so that I had to acquiesce. Now we shall see more of caipira life, but in somewhat better condition than the miserable abode of my old camarada’s family. The house was a very good mud wall and thatched roof structure, with four divisions; one being for the corn, another the cooking-apartment, and the two others for sleeping-rooms. As the manner of constructing the walls of these houses is characteristic of this class of people, it may be stated that upright timbers are placed in the ground at the corners, and at such other points as the size of the building requires, upon which rests the plates for the roof. Between these uprights are arranged vertically and longitudinally, making a check-work, numerous small strips or laths of the palmetto, upon which is plastered a mortar composed of clay with an admixture of cow-dung. This last-named article is used in this country to give tenacity to the mortar, and, from the general resort to it, I infer that it must serve a good purpose. A wall plastered in this way on the outside and inside gives protection to the inmates from the weather, and, if not subjected to any violence, will remain for a number of years in good condition.

These thatched houses (palhaçar casas) are covered with a kind of long coarse grass, or with the leaves of a species of palm, secured to the laths of the roof by the sipo vine; and each layer extending partly over the foregoing, a very thorough security against rain is effected. With occasional repairs, this covering serves as protection for ten or twelve years.

In such walls, and with such a covering, an earth floor is usually found, and this may be the natural soil, if in a clay region, but is usually made with mortar, such as is used on the walls. As it is very rare to see a chimney in any kind of a house in Brazil, this style of building is of course without any other place for a fire than upon the dirt floor, in the middle of the apartment used for cooking, and the smoke finds its way through the roof as best it may.

309The house at which we are to spend the night is owned by Senor José Francisco de Aranna, who is a tall, dark-skinned man, and probably having a mixture of Indian and negro blood; while his wife is a stout and rather comely white woman, being much fairer complexioned than most of those seen in this country. She seemed to be expected to perform most of the labor about the establishment, and got our dinner ready in a reasonable time.

The table for myself and my two attendants consisted of a large stool, having a cloth which only partially covered it, upon the middle of which was poured a large pile of farina, and upon each of three corners were plates, filled with regular home-made hominy and pieces of pork which had been cooked with it.

Not having met with any gritz before, since coming to Brazil, I enjoyed this dish hugely.

After it was disposed of, these plates were removed and others with small bits of fried pork were set down before each of us, which were to be eaten with the farina; but my appetite had been pretty well satisfied with the previous abundant supply, and I ate but little of this, while, however, my attendants made clean plates. Again we were called upon to partake of a dessert of big hominy, which was very nice, but beyond the capacity of my stomach, yet the other men managed to worry down all that was served.

As I have stated elsewhere, the big hominy is made here with the whole grains of corn, by being pounded in a mortar, and they don’t seem to know any thing of treating it with lime or ashes, to remove the outside. Its use is confined entirely to the category of dessert, even among the best people in the land, under the name, cangica.

While the articles furnished on this occasion were substantial, and the surroundings clean, the style of serving them was very primitive and plain, presenting a fair type of the living among the better order of caipiras.

Our host filled out the backwoods character by giving 310me some music on the viola, which is an instrument resembling the banjo, but with metallic strings, and is in great repute with these people. He sang at my request, which gave a zest to his performance, and I gave the best evidence of the soothing influence of his music by going to sleep during the rather protracted performance. Being in the dark, none of the party observed this act of appreciation.

Thursday, January 4, 1866.

I was honored during the night with the only bedstead in the house, consisting of some forks driven into the ground, upon which some small straight poles were laid, and having over them a piece of flag matting. With the assistance of my blanket and pillow, my sleep was profound and refreshing.

The old man who accompanied me reposed in the crib upon the unhusked corn, while the son spent the night in some equally convenient place, of which I was not advised.

We were not permitted to leave without breakfast, and giving again the bill of fare will afford a farther specimen of the good things enjoyed by this class of people. The immense pile of farina on the cloth in the middle of the stool greets us at the outset, with a big deep plate full of beans and small pieces of meat for each of us, on the corners of this temporary table. There being no seats about the house, I use my trunk as was done last evening, and the others hunker down to it.

This was followed by plates of soup, in which the beans and meat had been cooked, and we were expected to eat farina with it. There is a peculiar art with these people, in throwing the farina into their mouths with a spoon, and not touching the lips with it, so that all use the same spoon without any indelicacy, in eating from the common pile. Next came the big hominy, and we closed with plates of sweet milk. These articles should have been served together, 311and thus conformed to the usages among the better class, but they were furnished separately in this caipira regime.

We had no coffee here, and as it is more in keeping with these people to use the rum of the sugar-cane, (cachaça), it was tendered but declined.

I observed after eating each time, that my camaradas rose to their feet, and bringing their hands in contact before them, went through some short ceremony, which was construed as a thanksgiving for what they had received. This I presume is peculiar to the class, as nothing of the sort has been observed among the better order of people. There is no asking of blessing at table, or returning thanks, nor is there any family worship, where I have been heretofore; but among these people I heard a service at the house of Senor Pedro, before I rose in the morning, which seemed to be some devotional exercise on the part of the family; and it is evident that some of them have more regard for religious observance than the more refined class of society throughout this country.

Returning my acknowledgments for the hospitality received, we took our leave of this very respectable backwoods family and set out, with the assistance of another caipira to show us the route.

We were shown first into a blind path, leading down a steep hill, and with a continuation of hills and hollows through the woods for a considerable distance, but reached after a time a plainer way, leading by the most irregular and winding course that ever man or beast has travelled. It was that style of substitute for a road known here by the name picado, and consists in having a few of the small saplings and shrubs cut out, so that a horse may pass, and scarcely permitting a rider to accompany him.

At one time the knees are in contact with a tree in making a short turn; at another, a limb or bent cane of immense size endangers the head, and but for the use of the large sheath-knives carried by the camaradas, the path would 312have been impassable in many parts. These tremendous cutlasses, with which every camarada and almost every traveller is equipped, are equal to a small axe in clearing away obstructions; and though it looks somewhat savage to see them sticking in the belt of almost every man upon a voyage, they are very useful, and even necessary, in a trip such as the present.

Neither of my attendants wore shoes, and upon entering this narrow and rugged path, beset with brambles and thorns, they rolled up their breeches above their knees, having less fear of tearing their flesh than of injuring their clothes. Indeed their scanty outfit of wearing apparel made this precaution very proper, in view of the tough appearance of the natural covering of their legs. With my boots outside of my pants I secured a like immunity from damage to my raiment.

From our entrance into these woods until we passed out into the Faxina road, a distance of sixteen miles, we were surrounded by lands which were evidently of good quality; and yet, for the most part, so hilly as to render their cultivation very difficult. A portion of the soil is what is known among us as mulatto land, and other parts of a dark gray aspect. The supply of water at all points is quite sufficient for domestic uses, but only two places that would afford facilities for erection of machinery.

The remoteness of these lands belonging to the public domain from a market, and the great difficulty of getting a practicable road in any direction, must be a barrier to the occupation of this territory; otherwise it might be a desirable location for families.

I observed in the midst of this immense forest a small pole pen, and, upon inquiry, learned that it had been used for confining hogs at night that were driven along this route to Iporanga.

The nature of the soil and the character of the growth changed materially on reaching the large open road; and 313here again we encountered the pine, indicating thin land, though lying more favorably.

After proceeding upon this road, leading from the town of Faxina to Iporanga for four miles, we halted for the night at a beautiful stream, and I availed myself of the opportunity to take a most refreshing bath after the fatiguing day’s travel.

We had travelled twenty miles only, but, considering the nature of the road, it was a good result.

After the horses had grazed around until they were satisfied, they all came up near our rancho and stood for some time, in expectation of something more substantial. But just then the men were preparing dinner, and while we were eating our broiled pork and farina, of which the meal consisted, the animals all moved off upon the road we had come. I intimated to them that the animals were going away, “Os animals estão indo embora,” to which one of them simply replied, that they would not go far, “Não vão longe;” but after finishing his grub the old man set out in search of them upon my suggesting that they would probably return to his house, “Talves aquelles animals voltarão a sua casa.”

After he had been gone for half an hour, I perceived the son was getting very anxious, but nothing was said indicating any misgivings, while it struck me very forcibly that we might be destined to camp here much longer than desirable. At length the young man started off on the road, when I called to him “Onde vai, Senhor?” (Where are you going, sir?) To which he replied that he was going for fuel—“para lenha,” and turned into the woods. My impression was that he was starting to look for the old man and the mules, but I had no idea of being left here in the wild woods alone, and I kept my eye on his movements closely. At length the old man returned with the animals, having run some two miles to overtake them on their homeward-bound course; and they have received a caution, which will enable them in future to understand the movements of these brutes. 314They now gave them their corn, and confining the only horse in the train with a bell on his neck, as a rendezvous signal, the mules were allowed to go at large for the night.

We found at this place an old dilapidated rancho of the palm leaves, and seeing that a rain was approaching I stretched my blanket under this, and it served to protect all three of us from the showers that occurred at intervals during the night. My position was on the outside, the others between me and the fire; and the thought occurred to me more than once that any wild beast that might approach from these dense woods must come upon me first, yet I did not care to lie so near the fire as the change would bring me, and gave no signs to them of having any apprehension.

Friday, January 5, 1866.

A pot of beans with the shank-bone and feet of a shoat having boiled over the fire during the night, the coffee was promptly prepared and the breakfast was soon served, when I moved off to encounter the worst roads that can ever be travelled. Each of the party was well mounted, and our two pack-mules were substantial and active; but it was with the greatest difficulty that the animals scrambled up the hills, and required the greatest care in sliding down the steep slopes, while the ridges and mud-holes in the comparatively level portions of the road were most serious obstacles to their progress. These roads, where pack trains of mules travel, become crossed from side to side with alternate ridges and hollows by the constant treading of the animals in the same tracks. In strict keeping with the Brazilian character, they follow in the footsteps of those who have gone before, and nothing induces them to change their unvarying adherence to the same track. Thus, one after another, and four or five abreast in a broad road, lines are formed entirely across, resembling when they become dry the ridges formed for planting the sweet potato. Indeed 315this correspondence is so striking that the first instance seen, being upon a road that had ceased to be travelled by these troops of pack-mules, induced me to think that a crop of potatoes or other roots had been planted there. Yet, upon inquiry, I learned that these ridges resulted from the very thing encountered on the road to-day, and by lapse of time all signs of tracks had disappeared.

On our route the depressions were either full of water and mud, or the slope at one side kept them drained; but in either case it was difficult for the mules to step over the high ridges, and one needs but to try the experiment of stepping repeatedly over elevations of this kind to know how tiresome it must prove to the animal when kept up for some considerable time.

On the hillsides the clay was for the most part solid, and with a slight rain that was falling it was very slick, which impeded our ascent; and our descent of these slick smooth slopes was something very peculiar, and to me quite amusing. The mules seemed to understand the thing perfectly, and would glide down as boys descend a steep clay bank upon a slide, making a continuous impression like the trail of a small narrow slide upon the side of the hill, from top to bottom. The two pack-mules were kept ahead, and upon reaching the top of one of the hills, away they would go one after the other, and as soon as they were out of the way, then down went the animals of the camaradas, as if upon skates, in quick succession, and going with that great speed resulting from the declivity. At the outset, I felt some concern as to following this example upon my staunch and rather tall mule, hunting for a rough part of the ground to descend so as to keep his feet from sliding. But I soon found that it was better to let him go as the others did, and when he would get under way on a long, steep hill, he went down almost with the velocity of a locomotive-engine.

These mules are without shoes, and indeed the best-secured shoes would probably be lost in the stiff mud. The 316hoof penetrates the clay in the soft parts of the road, and when drawn out it pops at every step like a cupping-glass jerked suddenly from the skin. Only one of the animals made a complete fall during the day, and that was the horse, which was running loose at the time. The mules frequently slipped upon their knees in ascending the slick hills, but were upon their feet again in an instant. These men give their mules the rein entirely loose in descending the hills; and though I felt like keeping a check upon my bridle at first, I observed that the others got on better without tightening their reins, and that the pack-mules went safely without bridles, so that I soon concluded to give my brave and sturdy mule his will, letting him select his own way and his own speed in descending the hills.

When we approached the crest of the serra, the route became so very steep and rugged that, in compassion to my faithful animal, I dismounted and walked up several hills. The camaradas had previously on sundry occasions relieved their animals by walking; and the old man got a fall in going up a slick hill very much such as that which occurred to the horse.

There has been a considerable amount of labor bestowed upon this route across the serra, to make it practicable for pack-mules and those under the saddle; yet it is very difficult to make the trip even with excellent animals, and inferior stock could not traverse this awful road.

I am now entirely satisfied as to the cause of the cotton and other freight going from Faxina and other neighboring places, over the long route by way of São Paulo, to Santos upon pack-mules.

The difficulties of the passage across this serra may not be so great elsewhere as the route by which I travelled to-day; but from all that can be learned it is not likely that communication will ever be made easy from that region to the navigable waters of the Ribeiro de Ignape. Should the same amount of labor be given to the line from Itapetininga 317to Sette Barros which has been expended upon the Serra de Santos, it is most likely that a practicable road could be made there; and that route is perhaps the most important of any that could be selected for the accommodation of the public interests of the country. The vast and very fertile region of Botocatu would find a ready outlet for its products by this line of communication, and the large tract of agricultural country lying between this place and Apiahy calls loudly for a road to this river, over which wagons as well as pack-mules may pass with facility. A road to Sette Barros, or some point on the Rio Inquia, would secure steamboat transportation, and redound to the greatest benefit of the people throughout this entire region, while it would promote vastly the interests of the government. If the difference of freight by such a line, and the long line of pack-mules to Santos, is considered, it ought to induce prompt action in effecting it.

In different parts of the serra, which is here known as the “Morreo de Chumbo,” (hill of lead,) large mines of lead ore have been discovered; and the large proportion of metal and its freedom from impurities would insure an abundant yield.

Large masses of limestone are also present in several places. In one place, iron ore was likewise observed, which is doubtless connected with an extensive deposit. I was particularly struck with collections of superior red chalk, which would be well adapted for red pencils, as well as the ordinary marking purposes of chalk, while it might also serve as a pigment when ground. There is said also to be a deposit of coal in the range of hills next to Iporanga, but this may be a misapprehension of inexperienced persons. Should there prove to be coal-mines here, the value of the whole assemblage of mineralogical specimens would be immensely enhanced.

All these treasures might be made available which are located upon slopes of the serra looking towards Iporanga, 318but on the other side the difficulties of transportation are almost insurmountable.

Upon the top of the serra, between two ridges, there is a farm, upon which corn was growing most luxuriantly. Bananas and coffee trees were also seen at another place, looking very well.

An exceeding fine black bull was observed all alone far up on the ridge, and his appearance indicated fine stock. Other cattle in excellent condition were seen elsewhere, and in one group there were four bulls, two of which were very large.^[29]

Saturday, January 6, 1866.

We reposed last night at an old site of a fazenda, belonging to the estate of Senor Rafael, who died about a year 319since leaving a large property. A negro woman, having charge of the house, gave it up to our possession, and assisted us some in our culinary arrangements, for which she was rewarded by taking breakfast with these camaradas, after I had eaten my frugal meal. The farina was made into mush this morning, and thus furnished something of a variety in our fare.

Having now descended from the elevated land, we proceeded along a stream, called the Ribeirão de Camarga, which was crossed no less than nine times within a few miles; and after leaving it, three other smaller streams were crossed within as many hundred yards, all converging to empty into one channel that was subsequently passed, as it made its way into the great receptacle of these waters, the Ribeira de Ignape.

Within six miles we reached the village of Iporanga, and ascertaining that Senor João Paulo Dias, to whom I bore a letter, was not in town, I called at his house, and found Senor Joaquim José Vieyra da Rocha in possession, who treated me very kindly. He provided a very good meal for me, and yet having no knife on the table, left me to manage with a fork and a spoon. Upon intimating my wish to arrange for proceeding upon my journey, he went and brought Senor Manoel Joquim da Rocha, who advised me to proceed to Xiririca in a canoe, and arrange there for farther progress.

To this I acceded, and requested him to make all the requisite arrangements for the trip on the water, and let me know what was to be paid. He stated that it would be better for me to go this afternoon, some eight miles down the river to the situ of Senor João Paulo, to whom I had brought the letter, and spending the night with him, I could resume my voyage to-morrow morning. All being in readiness, he went with me to the point of embarkation, and upon my proposing to pay, he said all was settled in advance, and that I had nothing to pay. Besides this, he gave me two letters to parties in Xiririca, to facilitate my progress from 320there. This gentleman being an entire stranger, and having no personal interest whatever in serving me, I appreciated most gratefully his kindness in this matter.

I learned from Senor Manoel that Senor Street had been here some days ago, but had returned to Cananea, and perhaps to São Paulo; yet it was my expectation that he might still be found at the former place, and my wish was to communicate with him if possible in this region.

In descending the river, my negro boatman told me that the gentleman to whose house I was going was one of a party in canoes at a landing near by us. I directed him to stop his canoe at this place, and upon meeting Senor João Paulo, the letter of Senor Joaquim Custodio Merada of Paranapanema was delivered to him. He invited me to return with him and his family to the town; but upon stating to him my destination, he proposed at once to go back with me to his situ below.

I suggested to him that this would perhaps incommode his family, but all seemed to acquiesce cheerfully, and returned.

His cotton field was visited, and the land seemed to be well adapted to the growth of this article; but the work was very deficient, and the want of proper culture was indicated in the large number of stalks that were allowed to remain in a hill. In some instances, I counted as many as eight stalks growing in close proximity to each other, and the hills generally had more than three stalks. I advised him to reduce the stand to two stalks in a place, for a portion at least of his crop, that he might see the benefit of thinning it out. I selected one stalk which happened to be alone, and counted upon it twenty-two squares; and no stalks where there was two or more in a place exceeded sixteen squares, thus illustrating on the spot the advantage of more space.

A portion of the plants on this place have been destroyed by the ants, (formica,) and I suggested to him that the use of the plough in planting and in the subsequent cultivation 321of the cotton, would be likely to keep the soil free from the ant:

Another portion of the field was overrun with the weeds; and even the hoe had not been used in any part of his cotton, so as to afford a good result. A part of this land is river bottom, but above ordinary inundations, while another part is elevated land, running up from this flat, and it seemed that the latter was the best suited to the production of cotton, being also less liable to the attacks of the ant. This low land would doubtless suit corn well, yet it is here as we see all the world over, the article that is supposed to bring most money has precedence; and no corn was seen, though he stated that it was planted in some other portions of land.

The lands lying along the river thus far are very hilly and almost mountainous, with here and there, as at this place, a level space in which cotton, corn, or sugar-cane is planted. The more irregular lands are usually covered with mandioca, the root of which is the great source of farina, that is so generally used as food in this country.

Coffee trees were observed growing well in the yard at this place, having a good crop of berries and abundant blooms, where the berries were not yet formed. Senor João informed me that coffee gives a good yield here, and that there is no frost in this section to damage the crop.

There is a rice pounding-mill in operation adjoining the dwelling, and it is expected to connect a cotton-gin with the same water-power.

As yet there are no cotton-gins in this region of country, and any one who would anticipate the supply of the planters by erecting machinery for cleaning and packing cotton upon this river, would realize a fine return from his investment.

Senor João gave me this evening a fine specimen of lead ore, taken from a deposit within five miles of Iporanga; and he says there is certainly a bed of coal in the same vicinity, specimens of which he has sent to Rio de Janeiro, but no report has yet been received from the examination of it. 322He states that a good road can be made from the site of this lead and coal to the river, and transportation in large canoes thence to Xiririca, at which point the river becomes navigable for steamboats.

A large coal-mine here would be far more valuable than a gold mine to the fortunate owner.

Senor João Paulo Dias is the delegado of police for the municipality of Iporanga, and occupying a position in society which entitles his statements and opinions to respect. Upon inquiring the facts as to health and climate in this locality and the adjacent country, he gives an unqualified voucher for their salubrity and pleasantness. I see nothing that could induce disease; and the atmosphere is dry, with the sun shining all the day brightly, while the elevation gives a more pleasant temperature than in lower places, or even in the plateau lands.

I am informed that none of these troublesome little insects which penetrate the skin of the feet, and other parts, are found here, and yet there are hogs constantly about the yard.

I learn here that the lands of Dom Prates, of which mention was previously made, are located near the route from Apiahy to Iporanga, and though hilly are considered fertile. It is stated, however, that the coffee trees planted there have all died, from some inscrutable cause. I am satisfied that the land is very unfavorably located for transportation, and shall not try to visit it under all the circumstances.

The important matter in selecting a place is to secure lands adapted to all the variety of products, which are exempt from liability to sickness, and affording ready means of communication with a market, by means of navigation. Such I trust may be found combined in the neighborhood of Xiririca; and without spending time looking at other points I will proceed to investigate those lands.

323Sunday, January 7, 1866.

Though this day should have been observed as a day of rest, the arrangement of Senor Manoel made it incumbent to proceed in his canoe down the river to-day. After breakfasting with Senor João Paulo I was provided with a supply of chicken, fish, etc., etc., for my dinner, and took my departure at 9 o’clock A. M. The large fish, of which I had a part, and had also partaken at breakfast, was caught with a hook from the river, and though the name has escaped me, it was a fine specimen of what these waters produce. I understand that large fish are not so frequent here as lower down in the stream, but that there are a great many of good size for table use in all parts of the river.

While coming down in the canoe I read in the Portuguese Testament the sixth chapter of St. John’s gospel, and tried to profit by the lessons of dependence upon the Lord which it inculcates.

In the early part of my descent the lands were quite mountainous on each side of the river, but the irregularity of the surface gradually became less, until I reached a region where the elevations afforded only an agreeable relief to the more uniform configuration of the surface.

All the corn seen in the first part of the voyage seemed to have been planted early, and had become prematurely dry, giving an unfavorable impression of the yield of this region. But that observed lower down, and more recently planted, looked fresh and vigorous, while the corn approaching maturity was evidently of better stamina than that passed above. This change was evident after descending twenty miles, and decided after reaching the Inguary. This small river enters opposite to a very pretty island, which looks as if it would be productive; and the appearance of the corn on each bank of the Ribeira indicated good soil.

Upon descending further, the Laguary, a larger stream on 324the left, was passed, and I was told that canoes ascend it to a considerable distance.

Below this is the island of Bananal Grande.

My sturdy negro boatman did not seem inclined to expend much his energies upon his paddle, and I endeavored to stimulate him by offering a reward for a quick trip. But he subsequently sat down to paddle, and actually went to sleep. I then said that he must be very tired, and proposed to relieve him for a time, but he insisted there was no need of my doing so, and seemed to turn over the paddle to me reluctantly. My progress was not the most satisfactory, and getting into a swift place, the canoe made headway towards a point of land which I had to turn. The negro, perceiving my inability to manage his craft, again took the paddle, and after this there was no more sitting down to sleep. These fellows stand up in using the paddle or pole, and it is surprising how long they can continue this severe labor without intermission. This canoe was a regular dug-out, as are all on this river. It measured about twenty (20) feet in length, two (2) feet across the mouth, and eighteen (18) inches deep. The general thickness did not exceed one inch, with a belt of increased thickness in the middle, and with somewhat more substance in the bottom.

The negro informed me that such a canoe could be bought for six dollars ($6.00) at Iporanga.

Reaching Xiririca shortly after 6 o’clock P. M., I went immediately to the house of Senor Miguel Antonio Jorgi, and upon presenting the letters I bore from various parties, he proposed that I should proceed with him and his family down the river to his situ. To this I cordially assented, saying, “En eston as suas ordens.” His wife was introduced to me, and having learned that she spoke English, I forthwith propounded the interrogatory, “Falla Inglez, Senhora?” But I was answered, “Não, Senhor. Esquece toda lingua Ingleza.” She had spoken English when she was first married, but having no one to converse with for 325eight years, it had been forgotten, and I was left to my small acquirements in Portuguese as the only means of communication with this family. Senor Guilherme, a son of Senor Miguel, was also presented to me, and a number of other gentlemen who happened to be at the house when I entered. I escorted Senhora to the canoe-landing, giving her my arm, as I had learned this act of civility was viewed much in the same light as with us. All that was said by either was mutually understood, and my prospect for getting on in my communications with intelligent, educated people, is far more encouraging than in my intercourse with the caipiras with whom I have been for several days past in coming across the country.

I was accommodated in the huge family canoe, which had a covering of raw-hide, and all were comfortably protected for the voyage of ten miles.

The negro with the other canoe, in charge of my baggage, was directed by Senor Miguel to follow us.

Monday, January 8, 1866.

Requesting Senor Guilherme to write a note of thanks for me to Senor Manoel Joaquim da Rocha, for the service rendered by the man and the canoe in bringing me down the river, they were dismissed this morning at an early hour to return to Iporanga.

Having learned definitely that Senor Street has left this section, I am thrown upon my own resources in making any exploration of the lands, and, as Senor Miguel seems very kindly disposed, I have accepted his invitation to remain a few days for the purpose of looking around the country.

His dwelling and all its appliances present an air of substantial comfort, and even of elegance in some respects. The parlor is a large, well-furnished apartment, and has a piano of the bureau order, which is very fashionable in this country. His wife performs well upon this instrument, and has also the accomplishment of speaking French and Italian, 326though she has forgotten most of her English. She is very sprightly, and appears quite young for the wife of a gentleman of fifty-five years, as I take Senor Miguel to be from his appearance. He is originally from Spain and retains much of the harsh accent of that country in speaking the Portuguese, so that I do not understand him with the same facility as I do his wife or his son. The only fruit of the present marriage is one pretty little girl, who is quite a prattler. By a former marriage he has this son and two others, one a lawyer at Ignape, and the other a Catholic priest at Bahia.

Senor Miguel has at this place extensive machinery with water-power, for treating rice and sugar-cane, from the latter of which the rum (cachaça) is the chief yield, as it is found to pay better than the sugar or molasses.

I was struck with the convenience of his rolling scaffolds for sunning the rice, there being three or four of different elevations, so that one goes under the other, and each having its separate track, they can be compactly stored under a house or drawn out to be exposed to the sun. A similar plan to this would be well suited for drying coffee, yet nothing of the kind was seen in the coffee establishments, and they should profit by the suggestion. Upon these a few of the women and children about the house can draw out or run under shelter, as may be required, a large amount of rice or coffee.

There is also a saw-mill in operation here which seems to be of long standing, and has a perpendicular saw that works rather slowly.

The water-power used for these several purposes is a stream of no great magnitude, that comes into the Ribeira at this point, and by throwing a dam across some short distance above, he secures sufficient water for his purposes.

The residence and other buildings are located upon the bank of the river within a short distance of the water, and 327sundry large canoes supply the means of transportation to and from this place, which is called Caiacauga.

These canoes are of various sizes, made out of a solid log of wood. The one in which we all came down last night is forty-five feet long, thirty-two inches deep and thirty inches across the mouth. But there are others larger than this in all respects, and some measuring three feet across the mouth.

The largest canoes will carry ten thousand pounds of freight upon this river, and are worth about one hundred dollars; those of eight thousand pounds capacity may be bought for ninety dollars; while those of five thousand pounds capacity are valued at fifty dollars. From this down to the size capable of carrying two men and their baggage, the price ranges even as low as five dollars. This is found to be a very economical means of transportation, and those who employ their canoes for the public charge but twenty cents per head from Xiririca to Ignape, a distance of between ninety and one hundred miles. The steamboats adopt the same scale of rates; and from Ignape to Rio de Janeiro the rate of transportation is forty cents per head, making the entire freight from Xiririca to Rio de Janeiro only sixty cents per head when transported by water.

In comparing this with the table of published rates from Santos to Rio Claro, or any of the interior towns in the direction of Araraquara, it is found the latter is two dollars and forty cents per head without including the further item of shipment to Rio de Janeiro from Santos. So much for the difference of water and pack-mule transportation. We may reasonably calculate that the transportation to Rio from Araraquara will be five-fold greater than from Xiririca, even when the line of railroad is completed from Santos to Campinas. The pack-mules being placed on the upper part of the line will continue to exact a heavy tariff before articles reach the cars, and the rate of freight by railroad must exceed very much that by water.

328This matter is of great consequence in the profits of a crop; and while many articles are entirely precluded from market, by the rates of transportation on pack-mules from the interior of this province, even coffee and cotton cannot be forwarded to any advantage, except when the prices of these commodities are very high. On the other hand, there is scarcely any thing marketable which could not afford to pay the freight from Xiririca and leave a margin of profit; and all that is saved upon coffee and cotton is clear gain to the planter in this region.

The Ribeira de Ignape is navigable for steamboats of light draught at all seasons up to Xiririca, and at the ordinary state of the water, during the rainy season, those drawing eight feet can pass up it. The part affording least depth of water is at the mouth, all other parts of the river, being very favorable for navigation.

It runs very smoothly opposite the site of Caiacauga; and in passing down a few miles this afternoon, I was impressed with its special adaptation for navigation.

I visited, in company with Senor Miguel, the farm of Senor Manoel Roberto de Almaida, about two miles down the river; and though being under cultivation, it interested me greatly.

Cotton of American seed had been growing four years without pruning, and yielded two crops a year. The present prospect for a crop is fair, and I counted an average stalk having forty-two grown bolls upon it, while an isolated stalk had eighty-five bolls. I saw a very large stalk of cotton separate from the planting of the field, where it had ample space to spread, which must have had, at the least calculation, two hundred bolls.

This is the first specimen seen which has been growing for such a length of time, and it has not even been cut off, as most of the plants have been, which are more than one year’s growth. The appropriateness of this climate for the continuous production of cotton from a single planting during 329four years, is illustrated by a considerable field growing in this place; and apart from being arranged in rows, it affords but little evidence of attention. The land is evidently inferior to most of the surrounding territory, and yet it is of that dark gray order, with an admixture of coarse gravel, that is usually best adapted to the culture of cotton. The recently planted cotton also looks well, and if it was cultivated properly, would doubtless far exceed the yield of that which has been on the land four years.^[30]

Coffee trees of great age were seen here still bearing some fruit, and younger trees, with a full crop of the berries, indicated a climate well suited to this article. This man is eighty-five years old, and has a sister ninety years old living in this neighborhood, giving good evidence of the healthfulness of the country.

Tuesday, January 9, 1866.

I came down the river this morning in a canoe with Senor Miguel and his son, to his plantation at Ponto-Grosso, a distance of forty miles from Caiacauga. The rain was falling most of the time of our descent, and prevented me from seeing much of the land or crops on either side of the river. The few patches of corn seen did not present a favorable aspect, but having no information as to the period of its planting, I could not judge correctly of it.

We landed at a sandy beach, and breakfasted upon the abundant supplies brought with us; and dined after our arrival, having taken eight hours to make the trip.

The Rio Inquia enters the Ribeira eight miles above here, and adds greatly to the amount of water, so that it bears a 330striking resemblance to the Mississippi river, in the character of the stream and the general aspects of the adjacent country. It is a magnificent body of water, and, with the exception of a single small steamboat, is only navigated by large canoes, which transport the products along its margin to Ignape, a distance of forty miles below this point.

The lands along the banks of this river are covered for the most part with a most luxuriant growth of the copine grass, which is relished greatly by cattle, horses, and mules; but it is so succulent that it does not seem well for drying so as to make hay, and the land is too valuable to be left open for pasturage, so that very little of it is made available.

The soil of the river bottoms is a dark ash color, of a fine loamy consistence, and of great depth, so that it does not become exhausted by cultivation; and corresponds (so far as my limited knowledge of the lands of the Mississippi enable me to speak) very much in all respects to the Mississippi bottoms.

Upon visiting a field where cotton and corn are planted, the former was found to be growing too luxuriantly, and will be likely to make a large stalk without affording a good yield. The stand was irregular, and had been but partially supplied by replanting and transplanting. This last process is entirely new to me, and though not resorted to in the Southern States, it has a fair prospect for success here in the rainy season. The importance of having the stand of cotton all as nearly of the same age as practicable, and getting it forward during the wet months, will warrant the trouble, if it is found to succeed well. It is demonstrated that the plant takes root and grows, but how it may thrive or yield subsequently is yet to be tested. It has not been tried by any other person who I have met in Brazil, and has been resorted to in compliance with a suggestion of Dom Frederico Leopoldo Cesar Burlamaqui, a writer upon the culture of cotton, whose paper was published in 1863, with a view to induce the planters of Brazil 331to plant cotton while its culture was suspended in the United States.

The corn is planted in rows, with five rows of cotton intervening, and consequently too far apart for the pollen from the tassels to have its full effect upon the silks. The ears are therefore not well filled with grains, and the general size of the ears do not seem in proportion to the large stalks. The white flint corn is planted here exclusively, and the same seed has been used from time immemorial, so that a change of the grain is perhaps now indicated for the improvement of the crop. Of course the corn ought to be planted separate from the cotton, and the rows being in closer proximity would secure a better result.

There has been a change made in the rice planted here, within the last three years, and the superior quality of the yield over that of other specimens is very evident. A part of the new supply was from Santos, which is regarded an excellent place for rice; and another portion was procured from South Carolina, the rice from that State being considered the best of the world. Senor Miguel tells me the seed of the Carolina rice yields more grains to the head, but not larger or better quality than the other. The rice culture here is not confined to low lands, but is mixed with corn and cotton by some persons in uplands. My friend has at this place a rice-mill in operation, with a dozen mortars and pestles, and cleans ten sacks of rice daily. This is a task assigned to those working in the establishment, and they have to complete it before stopping the mill. It requires it to go quite early, and continues until after night, to accomplish the whole process.

Wednesday, January 10, 1866.

We set out this morning before breakfast and visited a field of corn which was approaching the period of tasseling, and presented a vigorous growth, though too much crowded in the drill.

332A coffee field was next examined, containing twenty-five thousand (25,000) trees of two years and younger which had been transferred from a nursery. They were evidently retarded in their development by a luxuriant crop of mandioca that surrounded the plants and shut out the sun to a great extent; yet the most of them look in a healthy, thriving condition, and some have blooms or a few berries of coffee. This coffee is planted upon elevated land, and the soil is dark gray with a mulatto base. These conical-shaped elevations are frequently observed here, and stand out in bold relief to the general flat character of the land near the river.

The mandioca presents an appearance very similar to the castor oil plant when fully developed; and the root is the great source of farina which is eaten by whites and blacks throughout Brazil. There are two distinct varieties, one of which is very similar to the sweet potato, being eaten in the same mode; while the other contains a poisonous juice which must be expressed from the root before the solid portion is used for food. This juice is said to be fatal to man or animal if taken in any considerable quantity; and the presence of it to a greater or less extent in some specimens of the farina is doubtless prejudicial to health, and may perhaps be a source of leprosy in some instances elsewhere.

The farina, however, when properly prepared from this poisonous root, is found to be nutritious and healthy; and this variety of the mandioca supplies most of the people with a substitute for bread. The roots are scraped and grated by a machine, when the coarse powder is subjected to compression under a screw to express the juice, after which the solid portion is pounded in a mortar until reduced to a fine powder. This is then dried in shallow pans over a furnace, and undergoes a cooking or parching process that fits it for keeping in sacks or barrels for any length of time. It is generally put on the table in this 333dry state, and is mixed with almost every thing else that may be eaten, in the same manner that we use bread.

Besides this, there is also a beautifully fine and white powder made from the mandioca by a process similar to that of preparing starch; and it is used for diet under the same circumstances that arrow-root is employed with us.

The mandioca grows well upon this land, and yields without culture, but should be allowed to remain in the ground from eighteen months to two years to attain maturity.

One stalk, which was torn out of the ground this morning for me to examine the roots, had twenty developments resembling sweet potatoes, and the whole would have filled a peck measure, thus affording a most abundant yield. It is propagated by cuttings from the limbs of the growing plants, and these are planted so that the trees cover the entire land densely and uniformly.

After breakfasting, the extensive new ground (roça) was visited. One hundred and sixty (160) acres planted in cotton and twenty acres in corn and rice present quite a promising prospect, though as yet nothing definite can be determined as to the result. The cotton is all young, but the most advanced looks well, notwithstanding there is in some parts a considerable admixture of fern and poke-stalks, calling for the hoe, and the dead trees are lying promiscuously over the ground. There has been an attempt to plant in rows, but they are very irregular; and the stand of cotton is in many places deficient, though it does not seem to be the result of destruction by the ant as in other places.

All the work here is done with the hoe; and the planting is effected by digging a hoeful of dirt, dropping five or six seed, and then covering, at intervals of two feet, more or less.

This land is elevated and the soil dark gray, with an admixture of sand, presenting very favorable conditions for cotton if the culture was properly conducted.

334The corn was yet young but flourishing, and is expected to yield without farther work.

The rice is planted in the flats between the more elevated grounds, and evidently will give an excellent yield.

Pine-apples were found growing promiscuously in different parts of this plantation, and I had the opportunity of eating this most delicious fruit to my complete satisfaction; and we started back with our canoe well stocked with large, yellow, sweet-scented cones.

In returning I observed the settlements more than in descending, as it was no longer raining, and there was a large number of dwellings on the margin of the Ribeiro, having in many instances a rice-mill connected with the establishment. These mills are moved usually by small streams of water coming into the river from either side; and a prime object in locating a residence is to be near one of these streams.

At the place where we stopped to eat our cold dinner, called Esterão da Pedro, a pretty article of farina was made from the rice, and Senor Miguel tells me the same is prepared at his house.

This article is used in its simple state or prepared in different forms of bread. It is likewise used as a powder for the skin, and relieves irritation of the surface in this warm climate. The rice is largely used by all those people along the banks of the Ribeiro, and with fish constitutes most of the food of many of the inhabitants. To this mode of living is attributed the swarthy, lean, and haggard look of the population in many places we passed; but there is little doubt of the local influence from the lowlands adjacent to the river having much to do in causing this impoverished and sickly appearance of men, women, and children. All parties concur with Senor Miguel in stating that there are but few cases of disease of any kind in this region; yet there is a want of stamina in the constitutional structure that indicates something unfavorable to health, 335and I should not like a location so low down on the river, or so immediately upon its margin.

Thursday, January 11, 1866.

Not being able to make the return trip, we stopped for the night at the house of Senor Bento José de Morais, and spreading our bedding upon the floor, remained until this morning. Taking a cup of coffee, we resumed our ascent of the river at an early hour. The notable rock of the horse (Pedra de Cavallo) soon came into view, and being on the dividing line between Xiririca and Ignape, is a point of some interest.

It stands in the middle of the river and is supposed to bear a resemblance to a horse.

Stopping at a house upon the bank of the river to eat the supplies brought along for our breakfast, a clean place could scarcely be found to spread our table-cloth. Senor Miguel proposed to the occupants to remove some things from a table for our use, and such a nest of cock-roaches as was broken up by the proceeding has rarely been seen in a private dwelling.

As the mahogany-backs were scampering off in all directions, my friend gave me a significant look, and when an opportunity presented, spoke his opinion of the slovenliness and laziness of the people.

We were joined at the place where we spent the night by Senor José Antonio de Silva, who has a small place above Xiririca, and he states that the average crop of coffee from his trees is eight (8) pounds per tree, and that he has gathered from one isolated tree as much as thirty-two (32) pounds in one year. He says the crop in that neighborhood is sure and of good quality.

It rained heavily during the afternoon, but we were thoroughly protected by a covering of raw-hides.

Friday, January 12, 1866.

After enjoying a comfortable night in the hospitable mansion of my friend, Senor Miguel, I went this morning with 336his son to set a gill-net for fish, and thence across the river to gather some grapes. This planting is made from cuttings of vines in the United States, and is now bearing a crop of fine fruit. The vines are arranged upon a large wooden frame, and appear vigorous and healthy, though upon the low land near the river, which is certainly not a very favorable site for the grape culture.

That celestial fruit, the jaboticaba, was also found growing in the same locality, but only a few remained of the abundant crop which the trees are said to have borne this year.

Several other varieties of fruit trees were seen, but it not being the season of maturing, I had no opportunity to test their qualities.

On returning to the gill-net quite a number of small fish were entangled in its meshes, and Senor Guilherme has since visited it again, getting quite a full mess for the entire family. Some of them, called cascudo, are a new order of fish to me, having a hard skin with scales like the pike or gar, and a very large broad fin upon the back, spreading out like a fan.

The sun was shining brightly during our walk, but it subsequently clouded up and rained.

Senor Miguel showed me this afternoon a field in which cotton and sugar-cane had been planted together, the crop of cotton being gathered some months ago, and the cane being now cut so as to permit the cotton to make another crop from the old stalk.^[31]

337Saturday, January 13, 1866.

All things being provided for a tour of observation, Senor Miguel, his son Guilherme and myself embarked in a large canoe at 9 o’clock this morning, to ascend the Ribeira. The margin of the river on the way to Xiririca presented many desirable locations which I had not been able to see when coming down in the night. A short stop was made at the village, where a letter was delivered to Senor Bernardo José Cabral, that should have been presented on my first arrival. Other letters were left for parties who were not at home.

On resuming our ascent of the river, a short visit was made to the farm of Senor Francisco Alvares da Silva, where his interesting family received us cordially, and one of his daughters gave us several pieces of music on the piano. He regaled us with excellent grapes of various qualities, the germs of which were imported from the United States. A few stalks of cotton from American seed were growing finely in his yard. But I was most interested in his coffee field, where trees from three years to twenty years growth presented a most exuberant crop of berries, and certainly present as good a prospect for a large yield of coffee as any of the trees seen in the best regions of Campinas, Lemeira and Rio Claro. These trees are growing in a sandy soil, upon a high bank of the river, and there is an excellent crop of corn in the intervening space, with good cane adjoining.

Our progress up the river enabled me to see again the 338lands on the banks, which had been seen in my first descent, and further observation impressed me even more favorably.

In many places there are hills extending to the margin, but in most parts the land is elevated, with an extended plain, looking as if the soil would be admirably adapted to cultivation. Corn, rice and sugar-cane, with occasional small patches of coffee, were observed in different localities, and this region seems not only well suited to a variety of products, but also is admirably adapted for settlement. It is high, and gives evidence of being healthy in the appearance of the people living upon the margin of the river.

I have seen nowhere better specimens of healthy, vigorous development than was presented by the daughters of the gentleman at whose house we stopped, and the report given is unqualifiedly favorable to the healthiness of the country and the pleasantness of the climate. Though in the rainy season there is frequently wet weather for a few days, yet even during this period there are intervals of clear, bright days.

The sun shone brightly upon us during most of the day, and though there was a mere sprinkle late in the afternoon, it soon passed off and the sky was again free from cloud.

The current, after ascending a short distance from Xiririca, becomes more rapid, and though we had four stout negroes to man our large canoe, it gave them heavy labor in using the poles. Upon making the suggestion that it was severe work, the reply was simply that they were used to it and did not tire.

It was after dark when we reached the mouth of the Inguary, and this being the point of disembarkation, we stopped at a house for the night.

Sunday, January 14, 1866.

Again, my dependence upon the arrangements of others induced a departure from the proper observance of the Sabbath. The night had been spent very comfortably, with the 339assistance of bedding brought in the canoe; and, though I slept in an open shed or piazza, I was not annoyed either by the bite or buzzing of mosquitoes; which gives a promise of exemption here from this troublesome tenant of the forests. The temperature at this point, which is twelve miles above Xiririca, is most delightful; and I am reminded of the remark of General Waddy Thompson, in regard to the table lands of Mexico, that a person having a coat would not care to take it off, or if it was removed, he would not care to put it on again. It is that genial state of the atmosphere which renders a person quite satisfied with his situation. With the majestic Ribeira flowing at our feet, and the beautiful island, to which allusion was made in my descent from Iporanga, lying immediately opposite our place of lodging, relieved by a green background of luxuriant corn upon the other side of the water, this pleasant spot held out encouragement for a thorough examination of the adjacent country. The soil near the bank of the river is a dark loamy earth, that gives every indication of fertility. A field of corn and also a patch of sugar-cane were seen growing near our quarters, and presented a very flourishing condition.

The negroes at the place said there had been a small space planted in cotton, but that the weeds and grass had overgrown it, so that it was abandoned. Upon asking why they did not work it better, they seemed to regard it as too troublesome to cultivate, saying “Não da lucro,” (it does not give profit.) So much for their knowledge of the value of cotton. A small specimen of cotton from a neighboring farm was brought for inspection, which looked as if it might have been produced under the same sort of disadvantages which induced the other to be abandoned, and gave a very unfavorable impression of the cotton culture in this part of the country. The land, however, is evidently well suited to the growth of cotton, when it may receive proper attention, and fine crops have been seen both above and below this point.

340The animals which had been sent from Caiacauga across the country arrived here this morning, and all the preliminary steps were taken for proceeding into the woods. Two pack-mules were loaded with bedding, cooking-utensils and supplies of various kinds; yet there were sundry articles to be carried by the negroes, and among them a huge tin box having cooked provisions, plates, tumblers, spoons, knives and forks, &c., &c. I was surprised to see that even two wooden forks and a pole were to be carried, for suspending a hammock at night, especially as our expected tour lay through forests, where these things could be got when we stopped.

Seven negro men and one negro woman (as a cook) accompanied us, to subserve the various objects connected with the examination of the lands and the care of the stock.

Before starting, we were joined by Senor Bernardo Antonio de Ramos Moraes, who is the owner of the small house at which we quartered, and resides a mile distant from the river. He has here a large body of land, and another party adjoining him below has a considerable tract lying on the river, both of which will be sold, if it is thought desirable to secure a body of land in this locality, extending to the water.

The stream, known as Ribeirão Inguary, which enters the Ribeira de Ignape at this point, passes through the lands of the above-named party, and at a short distance, perhaps half a mile, from the Ribeira, there is a fall in its channel, that would afford a very good site for any machinery that might be desirable.

After passing through this land, we entered a body of land owned by Senor Miguel, and encountered at the outset quite a hilly region, a part of which has formerly been cultivated, and is now covered with a second growth, (capoeira,) while there is at our place a field of fine corn, which indicates quite a productive soil. This land is of a dark gray aspect, with some large gravel, and would certainly yield 341cotton advantageously, even where it has been once cultivated with the hoe only and turned out. There is adjoining this territory, and lying in an angle between two of its extensions, a portion of land occupied by a number of small farmers, who live in close proximity to each other, having the ordinary thatched houses of the country. If these can be secured on reasonable terms, the houses might form the nucleus for a settlement, and they are not more than three or four miles from the river, with a very fair road.

After passing this populated valley, we traversed some lands belonging to Senor José Alves de Moraes, which still lay irregularly, and the soil assuming more of a yellow aspect, while the growth of the palmetto was intermixed with the large forest trees to a considerable extent. On this place there was seen a small patch of coffee trees, three years old, heavily laden with berries; and, though the soil was rather sandy, it seemed to be favorable to the growth of the coffee. It is certain that nowhere else have trees of the same age presented a more favorable prospect for a yield of fruit.

Leaving this, we again entered the territory of Senor Miguel, at a part where the configuration is more regular, and approaches in many places a level surface. It is an undulating plain, with slopes here and there of more or less abruptness; and having plateaus of elevated level land, and also flat low lands which lie along the stream, Aborbora, which runs through this land. Besides this stream, there are other smaller branches running into it, which serve to water all parts of the tract. But there is not any site, which was seen on this portion of the territory, that would be adapted to the use of water-power for machinery, and the reliance for this region must be upon the water-power of the Inguary lying between it and the port of shipment for products.

The quality of these lands varies greatly, presenting in parts great fertility, and in others evidently of less adaptation 342to the growth of the great staples of the country; while there is occasionally a small portion of land that seems to have been to a great extent exhausted by cultivation in by-gone years, and is overgrown with a long grass, corresponding to our broom-sage grass.

The proportion of virgin forest and second growth could not be accurately ascertained, but my impression is, that three-fourths of the territory has never been entered by the axe; and in this, the Pon D’Alho and Figaro Branco are of frequent occurrence, which are here considered as indicative of the best soil. The timber is not of that enormous dimension which was observed in some parts of the interior, nor do I consider any portion of this land equal in fertility and durability to the (terra rocha) dark purple lands of the inferior of the province. Yet the soil and the growth upon it are well adapted to the purposes of the agriculturist, and the facility for machinery, with the convenience of navigation, are matters of much moment.

I saw young corn on a portion of the tract of Senor Miguel, last described, which presented a good appearance, and also rice growing in upland that looked very favorable. Some older corn examined did not impress me as a good crop, though there was evidence of want of proper culture. The beans had evidently not yielded well, and it was stated that the time of planting by the tenants was improper.

Monday, January 15, 1866.

Having spent the night at the house of one of the tenants of this property, immediately upon the bank of a small stream known as Aborbora, it was found that we were not entirely exempt from mosquitoes, as on the night before, yet they gave us no trouble in the house whatever. This stream is one of the branches that go to make up the Rio Jacupiranga, and its name is applied to this territory, supposed to embrace two square leagues of land, owned by Senor Miguel.

343In leaving this house we ascended a short abrupt hill, and reached an elevated plain which extended with only one depression for half a mile, being in part covered with original forest, and presenting a dark mulatto soil. A portion, which was cleared, had an excellent crop of rice growing upon it, though there were low lands in the vicinity which would probably have suited this article better; and this want of judgment in arranging crops seems to be general among the people of the class that become tenants in this way.

After passing this level region the land became hilly and even mountainous at one point, making the ascent and descent difficult for our animals. The soil upon these hills was inclined to a clay consistence of a yellow hue, while the increase of the palmetto and scrubby palm indicated an inferior quality of land. Yet, upon a slope of one of these hills, corn was growing well in fresh land, while it was looking badly in old land.

Upon a small creek called Ribeirão de Lagoa, a low, flat, dark-colored bottom land spread out to some distance on either side, and the corn seen upon it indicated a good soil. This stream would admit of machinery, and there is sufficient fall near the point where it was crossed to render the water-power available. It is clear and cool, so that we enjoyed a draught of the water as much as if from a spring.

The house of another tenant was located near this stream, and he had a small patch of coffee trees, that seemed to have been neglected, presenting a very untoward prospect for a crop. The position being low, is doubtless likewise an unfavorable condition, while the soil is not here suited to their growth, being deficient in stamina.

In this place was seen a hedge of a scrubby, knotty tree with numerous short, thick limbs that seemed well suited to exclude even hogs from a field; and, as it grows from the cutting, an enclosure can be readily effected in a few years.

There is also another small tree having thorns that is 344used for hedges, and the enclosure so made is called “cerca de espinhos,” making an effectual barrier.

Although these and other growths are available for enclosure of grounds, hedges are not very often resorted to in the country; and in the campos where the timber is wanting, large ditches are made at a great expenditure of labor, whereas a hedge could be grown to answer every purpose when only cattle and horses or mules are to be enclosed.

In this region of country, however, there is an abundant supply of timber, and the only difficulty is to find that which is favorable for splitting into rails.

After traversing the premises of another party, that contained the poorest specimen of land seen since leaving the river, we proceeded to an extension of the territory of Senor Miguel, which goes within four miles of the town of Xiririca. There corn and rice were growing very satisfactorily, and though most of the land lay unfavorably for cultivation, those parts that are cleared have a comparatively level surface.

Near this portion of the land a field of coffee, on the premises of another party, presented a very encouraging prospect for a yield, being generally loaded heavily with fruit. This was upon a steep hillside from which the superficial soil had disappeared, and the mulatto clay formation, which forms the basis of most parts throughout this region, remained alone to support the growth of the trees. These elevated lands are thought to be most favorable to the coffee.

From this point we retraced our steps for a few miles, and then descended a stream called Braço de Gado for six or seven miles along a low, flat, and broad bottom land, having elevated lands on each side. A tenant occupies a house where we entered this territory, and there is near by an extensive fall in the stream above-named, which would be available for an overshot wheel of any desired size.

This point is particularly suitable for the location of machinery, 345as it is but four miles from Xiririca, with a road already in use which could be readily made to serve for wagons. It is, besides, near the direct line of communication between this place and Cananea.

In the course of the Braço de Gado several small streams enter from each side, affording water for the several humble families who occupy houses at different points by the favor of the owner.

The ridges upon each side, approaching a mountainous elevation, constitute the boundary lines of this property; and the breadth varies from three to four miles, while the length is considered to be six miles. The slopes of the hills on each side admit for the most part of ready cultivation; and the soil being of a dark gray aspect with a mulatto clay base, is adapted to all the staples, yet the most irregular portions would be most appropriately used for coffee. I saw good corn growing far up on the side of one of these slopes, and corn and rice were also seen upon the level plain below, but was too young to determine what would be the result.

This low land is generally level, and yet is not at all marshy, as the stream has a deep channel below the surface of the ground with abrupt angular banks, so that the water does not overflow except in immense falls of rain causing a flood of water.

The earth is solid throughout this bottom, and the road firm and good, except at the crossings of some of the small branches. With very little work a fine wagon-road could be made extending along this stream on a level route, communicating above with the road to Xiririca, or extending below some four or five miles over the same kind of surface to the Rio Jacupiranga, which is navigable with the largest canoes thence to its mouth.

Tuesday, January 16, 1866.

We spent the night at the house of a mulatto man named 346Senor Bartholomew da Costa; and having a heavy rain, the Braço de Gado was so full this morning that it could not be forded without swimming. Notwithstanding this flood of water, there were very few points at which it overflowed the high banks, and yet it did not fall sufficiently during the day for us to cross it, so that we remained at this place observing what was to be seen about the premises of this gentleman of color.

A patch of coffee, having some two thousand trees, was examined, which afforded a poor prospect of a yield. This was, in part, perhaps, attributable to being planted with a southern exposure, instead of facing towards the east; yet it is most likely that the soil is deficient in those elements suited to the production of coffee.

Corn and rice were growing well in the flat land along the stream, but most of it was too young to form a proper opinion as to the yield. Observing that the rice was missing in various places, I was told by the owner that it had been eaten by rats which live in the woods, of whose voracity there is no reason to doubt; though this is the first time that these rats have been heard of in the country.

Here it was observed that the cows were very much annoyed by a fly which deposits its egg in the flesh and causes numerous points of irritation in the skin. The same result ensues when they make a deposit in the human skin.^[32]

347Wednesday, January 17, 1866.

Finding the Braço de Gado reduced again to its natural channel, we left our imprisonment, enjoying another day as bright and clear as that of yesterday, until late in the afternoon, when there was a slight shower of rain. This body of land is the possession of Senor Miguel, and we proceeded from it across the ridge towards the Ribeiro to examine another tract owned by him, of a configuration and quality that is better suited to agricultural operations than any of the territory thus far seen. There is perhaps a square league of land in this lot; and it combines original forest, secondary growth, and open cultivated fields. A large portion of the original forest is well timbered, and not so irregular as to prevent cultivation with the plough; but there is one part that assumes a mountainous character and of course precludes ordinary culture. On the crest of this elevation I was informed that crops had been grown and that the soil was good, but I did not make the ascent.

In the lands under cultivation I saw a few patches of corn, some of which was growing well, while others indicated an exhausted soil as well as deficient culture. At one small house where we stopped there were rice and peas, which the negro tenant had grown on the place; and at another there was a considerable lot of corn. There is upon this place a site where a large rice-mill was formerly in operation, and might be made available again for machinery. I found the effects of the fly upon the skin of cattle here also, and any quantity of mosquitoes in the wood.

Thursday, January 18, 1866.

After a tour of five days and a return to the comforts of 348home, Senor Miguel announced this as a day of rest for us; but a few points may be adverted to in connection with my past observations upon the surroundings of this place.

This section of country about Xiririca is exempt from local or epidemic diseases, and the general constitutional stamina of the population indicates vigorous health. Goitre and leprosy, which are found in most other sections, are unknown in this region. The climate is free from that oppressive heat which prevails in higher latitudes, and which is observed in less elevated localities.