HUNTING A HOME IN BRAZIL. (continued 2)

The deep gorges in the sides of the mountain have streams of water running from the more elevated parts, and in one of these recesses there is a cascade of much grandeur and sublimity. From the side of a cliff covered with green foliage, this stream seems to gush forth, and dashing downward with the greatest impetuosity from one ledge of rock to another, it finally goes surging and boiling through the mountain gorge, to form a tributary to the river below. I could not so far restrain my utilitarian ideas, as to keep out the impression of the immense water-power that might be wielded by this bold stream, were it situated at a favorable point for the erection of machinery.

Somewhat more than half way up the slope of the serra, there is a most enchanting view of the broad expanse of land and water around the city of Santos. Rarely does it fall to the lot of man to occupy a position more favorable for enjoying that fine contrast of mountain and plain, which is presented in casting the eye upwards along the crest of the serra, and then downwards over the placid and yet varied scene beneath, with the ocean seen in the distance.

The variegated green foliage which envelopes the slopes of the serra is a type of nature’s loveliness, and we may truly say of this grand panorama that “Beauty unadorned is most adorned.”

Between Santos and the foot of the serra, nearly a thousand mules were encountered, laden with coffee, cotton and other products of the interior, going towards the city of Santos. Though I did not count those which were passed 56after getting into the diligence, it is a fair estimate that an equal number were met after leaving the station. Thus we have about two thousand pack-mules, each carrying about two hundred and twenty-five pounds of the products of the country, making their way to Santos. Going in an opposite direction, there was perhaps an equal number, that had delivered similar articles, and were now laden with various kinds of merchandise for the consumption of the people in the interior; or in some instances with pieces of machinery for the improvement of their industrial appliances. In one instance, a mule was carrying two immense boxes, which literally covered it from head to tail.

It is much to be desired that this bungling mode of transportation will ere long be supplanted by the opening of the railroad line from Santos to São Paulo. It is said to be already completed; yet an accident upon the line, on the occasion of a trial excursion some months since, has perhaps served in part to induce the contractors to retain the use of the road exclusively for forwarding the necessary articles of construction for the portion of the line not yet finished. Not only is the demand great for the transportation of freight, but there is now a considerable amount of travel, which must at present avail itself of the diligence line and submit to all the exactions they see fit to make. I was told that the fare from Santos to São Paulo was fifteen millreas, ($7.50;) but in addition to this there was a charge of four millreas ($2.00) for a horse to ride to the foot of the serra, and a charge of three millreas ($1.50) for the transportation of baggage, making together twenty-two millreas, ($11.00.) The extras can be put on with the monopoly of the means of transportation, but if we had the line of cars upon the railroad, it would not only be cheaper, but more expeditious, though from present indications the safety of the railroad seems very problematical.

At the small village of São Bernardino, about half way 57from Santos to São Paulo, there are two very neat-looking tea farms, which succeed as I am informed in producing a very good article of tea. Really this is like an oasis in the desert; for there is scarcely another redeeming feature in the route from the serra to the city. If my estimation of the resources of Brazil had to rest upon the soil along this road, I should take no interest in locating here.

The ground in one particular locality was raised in mounds of various size, from that of a potato-hill to the extent of earth thrown up in burying a horse. This resulted from the operations of a species of ant called here copina, and if the soil had been fit for any thing previously, it would be rendered useless by the presence of these insects in such immense numbers, as the entire surface for a considerable area was covered with these hills of different proportions.

Besides this copina, there is another species of ant, called formica, which is very destructive to vegetables throughout this region. They burrow in the earth, at such depths, and by such circuitous channels, as to render it impracticable to destroy them except by fumigation with sulphureous gases, or other poisonous exhalations, that may be blown with an air-pump or by a bellows into their dens. This class of ants is said to be very troublesome in the agricultural districts of this province, and they are perhaps the greatest obstacle to the success of the planters in the cultivation of cotton, to which they are particularly destructive.^[10]

58Notwithstanding the unpromising aspect of the lands generally, through which we travelled, we had a fair assortment of substantials for our dinner at the hack station, and especially was there a good supply of the staple commodity of the country, feijão, which is a variety of beans somewhat similar to our corn-field bean.

Our lady friend, who had been absent for some four years in France, had not perhaps enjoyed an opportunity during her absence, or since her return, to avail herself of the native feijão; and I was quite interested to observe the evident relish with which she partook of these beans.

On our route to-day we encountered a vestige of former days that is still in use in many rugged parts of the country, called the banquet.

It consists of a sort of box, as the body of the carriage, having shafts at each end, so that a mule may be placed in each, to bear the burden. With this firm and apt support, one mule having his tail to the body, and the other with his head towards the other end of it, progress is made successfully over the most irregular and narrow roads. Women and children are placed in this box-carriage and travel to any part of the country in comparative comfort and safety, and should any portion of our people go far into the interior, this is the mode of transportation which must be relied upon for families, as carts and wagons cannot travel over many of the roads in the country.

We reached São Paulo after dark, and I proceeded to the Hotel de Italia, and was pleased to receive the salutation of the landlady in my own language. She sent a servant with me to search for Mr. Preller and Mr. Sampson, to whom I had letters of introduction, but neither of them 59was found, and after returning, I went to my room. After sleeping until after midnight, I was awoke by the sound of music and voices in the house, and I could recognize the voice of our landlady, in the midst of others, speaking in an excited and elevated strain. Being kept awake for two hours, this did not seem in keeping with an orderly establishment, and I concluded that my landlady was quite too fond of company and late hours to suit my taste.

Sunday, September 24, 1865.

The humiliating confession must be made, that I had not noted the return of the Sabbath, and went out this morning for the purpose of doing some shopping. There was no indication in the business aspects of the streets that it was a day of rest, and it was only brought to my mind that I was violating this holy day by a remark of my landlady referring to the day of the week. I only bought, however, Vieyra’s small Portuguese and English Dictionary, which is in two volumes, so that one may be carried in each coat pocket, and be ready for use whenever a word is needed.

Mr. D. H. Sampson was found this morning at the Hotel da Europa, and my letter from Dr. Thomas Rainey, of Rio, being presented, he expressed his satisfaction upon making my acquaintance, and manifested a readiness to aid me, which was quite gratifying. He suggested that it would be more pleasant for me to move round to this hotel, as I would find more persons here speaking the English language, and with a view to introduce me to his friends he invited me to dine with them to-day at the Hotel da Europa.

As my experience at the Hotel Italia was not calculated to attach me to that establishment, I concluded to change hotels, and closed my account.

In the course of the morning I made the acquaintance of Mr. Newton Bennaton, who is a Brazilian that spent several 60years at school in Maryland, and speaks the English language as well as the Portuguese and French. He seemed at once to take an interest in the object of my visit, and offered to render me any assistance that lay in his power.^[11]

61Monday, September 25, 1865.

Having deferred the presentation of my business letters, in consideration of the Sabbath, I proceeded this morning with Mr. Bennaton to see his Excellency Ill. Senor Vicente da Sonza Queiroz, to whom I bore a letter from the Minister of Agriculture.

We were received with the customary courtesy, and it was soon brought to my attention that this same gentleman owned a large and fertile tract of land at some distance beyond Campinas, which he would either sell or lease. If it was desirable to lease land under cultivation, he would be willing to rent a quantity of open land at sixteen millreas ($8.00) per acre. We had nothing favorable to expect from 62this source, and accordingly thanking him for his tender of assistance, we took our leave of this honorable gentleman.

I was next presented by Mr. Bennaton to Senor Antonio da Costa Aquiar, who is an intelligent Brazilian that speaks the English language fluently, and it was arranged that he would accompany me to see the President of the province.

We accordingly proceeded to call upon his Excellency, Illm. Senor Idão da Silva Carrão, President of São Paulo, at his palace, which by the way was found to be rather unostentatious in its exterior, and simply neat and plain within. My letter from the Minister of Agriculture was delivered, and I learned that a private letter had also been received by the President from the minister in regard to my visit. The President indicated his disposition to give me all the requisite aid for exploring the province of São Paulo, and the interview closed, with the understanding that I would receive an audience next day at eleven o’clock A. M. for the consideration of details.

My reception here partook more of a simple business character than any previous meeting with the officials of this country, and it appeared to be viewed by the President and by Senor Aquiar as intended solely to accomplish an object. The attention of the President was evidently very much occupied with business which other parties brought before him, and several were in waiting when I was admitted.

His demeanor was respectfully courteous, and his general appearance was intellectual and dignified, while the characteristic attitude of the man of business was maintained throughout this rather brief interview with me and my interpreter.

My friend, Mr. Sampson, left the city to-day for his place of business on the railroad at Cachoeira, and placed me in charge of his room, with the key of his trunk, and authorized me to use any thing in it that might render me service 63until my baggage should arrive by the cart of the diligence man.

Already I had accepted his offer of a shirt, and now availed myself of another, which was needed. My baggage, however, came to hand this evening, and there will be no further necessity to resort to my friend’s trunk, which is well stocked with all needful articles. Upon leaving, Mr. Sampson informed me that he would have a negro man, who spoke Portuguese and English, in the city with a mule during the week, and should no satisfactory arrangement be effected with the President, that I could come up with this man to his place, where I should be equipped for my tour.

He proposed to get some one to accompany me, as interpreter, in communicating with the people of the country, and to provide animals for the expedition, for all of which I feel very grateful.

But, coming here, as I do, under the authority of the Minister of Agriculture, who represents the government of Brazil in this department, and bringing a letter from him to the President of the province of São Paulo, in which he is directed to provide the requisite facilities for examining the lands of the province, I must look to him for the means of proceeding. It is only when he may fail to do what is expected of him that I can consistently avail myself of this or any other tender of assistance from private individuals. My mission must have the sanction and indorsement of this public functionary to make it what is evidently designed by the Minister of Agriculture, a government enterprise.

Being now a boarder at the Hotel da Europa, and not a guest as yesterday, at the table of those speaking the English language, I may without impropriety allude to the demonstrative proceedings of the party at breakfast and at dinner to-day.

Had I not known that this party were drawn together 64by kindred feelings, as well as the same tongue, it might have been supposed that an open rupture was imminent, in hearing their impeachment of each other, and their apparently angry retorts upon one another.

The greatest confidence in their mutual good will constituted the key to these quasi violent assaults based upon supposed offences; and the actions being suited to the words, it is highly probable that those not understanding their kindly relations might infer a state of things very different from the reality.

In addressing the servants, who knew very little of English, the harshest language was sometimes used; while the most threatening attitudes and gestures were occasionally accompanied by casting a piece of bread at the head of a negro. It seemed to afford a sort of recreation to worry the black servants, by talking and acting in a way that was not understood by them, and especially when their slow movements or other shortcomings met their disapprobation. This table is spread in a room separate from the main dining-saloon of the hotel, and it is therefore a sort of private apartment where they are at liberty to do as they may be disposed without any stint.

There is not so much changing of plates with this group of friends as is customary with the Brazilians; but they indulge in all the variety of articles and in the different kinds of drinks that the country affords, and really live upon the fat of the land.

During the day, I was introduced to the Rev. A. L. Blackford, who is a Presbyterian missionary from the United States to this papal dominion of Brazil.

He manifests quite a cordial interest in my object and in my personal welfare. This feeling was doubtless enhanced by learning that I held a like faith with him; and he called upon me in the evening and took me to his home, to make the acquaintance of his wife. With a full appreciation of my reception, I felt that my lot was cast with friends, whose house was open to me at all times.

65Tuesday, September 26, 1865.

In a conference with Mr. Bennaton, this morning, I learned from him that it would suit him very well to accompany me as interpreter on the proposed tour of the country, and that he had already intimated his readiness to go if a satisfactory compensation would be allowed by the President.

When we started to visit the President this morning, I suggested to Senor Antonio Augusto da Costa Aguinar, who accompanied me, the propriety of providing for the expenses of Mr. Bennaton as interpreter, as well as the employment of a camarada to take charge of the animals which would be required for the voyage.

In the course of the conference with the President, the question was propounded to me as to what compensation was expected by Mr. Bennaton; when I replied that he had not communicated to me the terms upon which he proposed to accompany me. The question was then asked, if I thought he would be satisfied with three hundred millreas ($150) per month; when I stated that it was not perhaps a matter of pecuniary consideration with Mr. Bennaton, and that he would doubtless be disposed to accept whatever was thought proper under the circumstances to pay him.

I was pleased to learn from Senor Aguinar at the close of the audience, that there was a prospect of having every thing arranged for my outfit; and after returning, I informed Mr. Bennaton of what had occurred, with the request of Senor Aguinar that he would call at his office in regard to the details of the arrangement.

He did not seem satisfied to undertake the trip upon the terms proposed; and after meeting Senor Aguinar, he had an interview with Senor Dom Bernardo Gavão, who proposed to confer with the President in reference to the compensation of Mr. Bennaton and the other provisions for this 66expedition. I can do nothing but remain quiet, and let them work out the matter among themselves.

The Rev. A. L. Blackford came to my room this morning and invited me to make his house my home while I remained in the city. While it was entirely agreeable to accept his hospitality, I told him that Mr. Sampson had kindly placed his room at my disposal, and that there were reasons connected with my business engagements that rendered it better to retain my present quarters. He left with the understanding that my meals would be taken with his family, and I accordingly notified Mons. Planet, of the Hotel da Europa, paying him five millreas ($2.50) for the accommodation of his establishment for one night and three meals of victuals.

Upon repairing to the residence of Mr. Blackford, at 4 o’clock P. M., I found dinner in readiness; and the cosy quiet trio, which he, madam, and myself made, around the circular table, was quite in contrast with the stirring scenes around the hotel table. Of course this retired situation suited my tastes better, and I felt really quite satisfied in my associations with this pleasant family. Though the gentleman is from Ohio, and the lady from Pennsylvania, there seems to be no political prejudice against the course pursued by the South, on the part of either; and indeed Mr. Blackford has sympathized with us in the recent struggle to resist the incroachments upon our constitutional rights by the Federal Government.

After dinner, we took a walk to the botanic garden, which was quite a recreation, though there is very little evidence of that culture which is requisite to render the place attractive. There are several pieces of sculpture, and among them a Venus and an Adonis; but none of them impressed me favorably as specimens of art or copies of nature.

It being Mr. Blackford’s custom to hold family worship at 8 o’clock in the evening, I proceeded with them to the 67lower apartment of the house, where the servants and some other inmates of his premises joined us in the service. He read and sung in the Portuguese, giving me an English and Portuguese Testament, in which I had no difficulty in following the reading of the chapter. The principal prayer was in English, but he closed with the Lord’s prayer in Portuguese, thus adapting the exercises to my want of knowledge of the language of the country, and also in part to the comprehension of the others present.

Wednesday, September 27, 1865.

Senor Dom Bernardo Gavão had a conference this morning with the President of the province of São Paulo, and it is now understood that he will make the arrangement with Mr. Bennaton on such terms as will be satisfactory to him for his services as interpreter.

It was intimated to me that in the event of failure by the President to meet the expenses of this exploration, Senor Dom Gavão would probably advance the funds that might be required to visit an extensive landed estate of his, which is located near the town of Araraquara and this would traverse a large portion of the province. I feel however no misgivings as to the course of the President in regard to this matter, as he is well aware that there is a public sentiment in this province which would sustain him in any encouragement given to the emigration of our people to this region; and he has besides the authority of the minister in appropriating from the provincial treasury whatever may be necessary to facilitate my movements.

My observation thus far is, that the officials of Brazil are disposed to pursue a very enlightened policy respecting the proposed emigration of the people of the Southern States to this country, and I have far more apprehension that we may be ultimately thwarted in our wishes by the interests of private parties, than from any failure on the part of the 68authorities of the empire, or those of the provinces, to meet our just expectations.

I went this evening with Mr. and Mrs. Blackford to examine the public bath-house, which has been recently fitted up in elaborate style, and is now to be opened for gentlemen and ladies at the rate of one millreas (fifty cents) per bath. The marble bathing-troughs and the neat apartments, with the refreshments provided by the proprietor, will no doubt secure a paying patronage. But the price is beyond the means of many who would like to indulge frequently in a bath, and it is therefore likely to be rather an aristocratic establishment. There is a frontispiece over the entrance to the building representing a mermaid, (half woman and half fish,) with the perfectly formed body and bust of a naked female holding a harp in her hand and resting upon the surface of waves that are very well delineated by the artist. This is a subject of considerable criticism, and yet really seems a very fitting prelude to the nudity of the bathing-room.

My position in Mr. Sampson’s room is very convenient for meeting those who wish to see me on business or otherwise, during the day or at night; and Mr. Preller, to whom I have a letter from Mr. Davis, spent nearly an hour with me this evening. Upon leaving he gave me the assurance of his readiness to serve me in any way that he could assist me.

Before leaving Mr. Blackford’s after dinner, a finely-dressed gentleman from Rio Clara called there to see me, and to represent the attractions of a coffee plantation which he had for sale. He expatiated in most eloquent strains to Mr. Blackford, but his valuation was far beyond our means.

Thursday, September 28, 1865.

Having a piece of gray cloth that I had brought from home, and desired to have made into a suit of clothes, Mr. Blackford went with me to the tailor shop. All the trimmings 69will be furnished, and coat, pants, and vest, made for fifteen millreas, ($7.50;) and they will be in readiness upon my return from the projected trip to the interior.

We went into the large building used for the law school, and saw one of the classes coming out of a lecture-room with the professor, who was rather a young man, in his long robe of black silk, flowing down to his feet. The young men appeared very genteel in their deportment and dress; and, for the most part, had arrived at full manhood. The term of their attendance in this course of study is five years, and if one does not come up to the standard required in the examination, or has received a certain number of demerit marks during the year, he is not permitted to graduate, and has to remain another year. In some instances two extra years have been spent, by those more fond of hunting or taking their pleasure than of confinement to study.

I am informed that there are five hundred students of law in this institution, and that there is another school at Bahia which has an equal or even greater number in attendance. These are considered first class institutions, but I have no means of knowing how they compare with similar schools in the United States or elsewhere, and can only say that the general standard of scholarship here is not equal to ours, though the requirements of time are longer.

There are two monasteries in form and estate located in this city; but there is only a single inmate as a monk in each, which serves as a nest-egg, upon which those in charge may perhaps incubate and bring forth some results; yet the Brazilian government has interdicted the initiation of any other monks. The property connected with these organizations is said to be immensely large and very valuable; consisting of lands and negroes in different portions of the empire. But it is supposed they will be escheated by the government, and thus these stigmas upon the face of society will be obliterated.

There are several Catholic churches in this place, and 70some of them of large proportions, but of very humble and sorry appearance compared with the towering edifices of Rio de Janeiro. The buildings here in the business thoroughfares are much inferior to those of Rio, yet there are some very tasteful houses and grounds on the border of the city near the railroad depot. The plan of the city is so very irregular as to mar its general aspects, and but few fine equipages attract attention on the streets. One of the greatest disadvantages of the city is the absence of gas, and it indicates a want of enterprise or a spirit of progress which should characterize the municipal authorities of this refined and intelligent people. This being the capital of the province, where many persons from abroad are assembled annually, and being regarded a good climate and healthy locality, it behooves those in charge of her municipal affairs to take a step forward and supply the streets with gas, and look to the correction of some other palpable deficiencies in the present regime.

The very agreeable announcement has been made to me by Mr. Bennaton that all the necessary provisions for the trip to the interior had been arranged by the President, and that he has already received seven hundred millreas ($350) to meet expenses on the way. The animals, however, are represented as being in wretched plight, and the camarada has not yet been secured to take charge of them upon our journey. He expects to take two mules of his own and his own servant, so that our outfit will include at least six animals; two being required for pack-mules, to carry our baggage alternately. It is his present expectation that we will start on Saturday morning, and go up that night to Mr. Sampson’s place at Cachoeira. But there are contingencies which may prevent our leaving here before Monday, and it will suit me better now to remain until then, as I do not wish to travel on Sunday when it can be avoided.

Had I known at the outset that our preparations would 71have been so much delayed, it would have suited me very well to visit some places in the vicinity of the city, which have been reported to me as having some interest for our objects.

One is a large landed estate belonging to the government, that is occupied by the Baron of Itapitaninga, and yet subject to the disposition of the authorities at any time. But I take it for granted, there cannot be much fertility in any land convenient to the city.

There is another place consisting of nearly a square league of land, constituting a fazenda, called Bananal, that lies some sixteen miles from the city.

Again, a larger territory at Bragança has been recommended to me. But I can’t see them now.

Friday, September 29, 1865.

A pair of spurs and an umbrella have been procured to-day to complete my personal equipment for the voyage; and all is in readiness on my behalf for departure. It is reported to me, however, that the arrangement as to the animals and the camarada have not been consummated as yet, and that we cannot leave to-morrow as was anticipated. In view of this, I have intimated to Mr. Bennaton that every thing can be arranged for our departure on Monday morning; and it is now a fixed fact that we set out at that time to enter upon the promised tour through the territory of this province. I have much reason for congratulation, in thinking that the officials in Rio de Janeiro, and also at São Paulo, have done all in their power to promote my object; and at the same time, I am gratified with the kind spirit which has been manifested by a number of private persons, who have expressed their readiness to serve me in any way it might be acceptable.

In view of the liberal provision made by the President of the province for the defraying of all expenses of travel and an interpreter, I have determined to send him a letter 72of thanks, expressing my obligations for the same. It has also appeared to me eminently proper that the public may know that this favor is duly appreciated, and I will therefore suggest that my communication be published in the daily papers.

With the notices in the newspapers at this place, and the letters of introduction from various persons, with those of the Minister of Agriculture, I hope to receive a favorable consideration from the people.

Saturday, September 30, 1865.

A ride was taken in the afternoon to the suburbs of the city in company with Mr. Blackford. We passed the Catholic cemetery, which is enclosed by a substantial and very high mud wall, that is whitewashed, and presents a very neat appearance.

In looking through the bars of the massive wire gate, I observed several elaborate and costly vaults arranged on each side of the way to the chapel, which seems to be located near the centre of the grounds; and the evidence of taste and attention was greater here than in most of the structures for the living.

There is a Protestant burying-ground adjoining this cemetery, but the rude mud wall, and the rough and uncared-for aspect within, brings home to the passer-by that this element is weak and powerless compared with the dominant religion of Brazil.

The small resources at the disposal of Protestants are more appropriately applied to disseminating the truth among the people than in adorning a place for the dead, in the proportion that the soul is of more value than the body.

A brickyard was visited, about one mile from the city, which indicated more mechanical adaptation of means to the end in view than is seen in most parts of this country. A good substantial cast-iron mortar-mill, and a well-constructed 73furnace for burning the brick, with an extensive tile-covered shelter, rendered this establishment very complete. The price of brick being here, however, forty millreas ($20) per thousand, will soon repay the manufacturer for any extra expense in preparing to furnish them. There are two other establishments for the making of brick and tiles somewhat more distant from the city, and it is likely that henceforth houses of much importance will be constructed of brick, instead of mud walls, as heretofore; though the exorbitant price, as yet, will prove a barrier to their extensive use, and it would pay to make them on a larger scale, at half present price.

A little incident is worthy of record here, as illustrating a phase of Brazilian life. Upon pronouncing my appreciation of a very fine horse, rode by the owner of this brickyard, as “Muito bonneto,” (very pretty,) he replied, “Está as suas ordeus,” (he is at your orders;) which was explained by Mr. Blackford to me in English, to mean simply that he was gratified with the remark, and did not imply any expectation that I would avail myself of the use of the animal. This answer is very common when any thing is complimented; and there is an anecdote told of a distinguished gentleman travelling in foreign parts, who used a very costly and elegant shawl. It was complimented by some one, and, in return, tendered to the party, who accepted it as a present. Another of equal elegance was procured by the gentleman, and was again the subject of admiration, when it was in like manner tendered and accepted. A third most exquisite covering was now obtained with some considerable difficulty by our tasteful and very polite connoisseur in this department; and, upon presenting himself in society, a friend was enthusiastic in his laudation of its elegance and beauty. But, with the recollection of the past, the gentleman apologized for not making a tender of it, with the remark, that he had learned that it was the habit of people there to accept what was offered, and having no prospect of 74finding another to suit, he must be excused for retaining his shawl.

The country around the city has a dreary, barren aspect, and there is but little evidence of cultivation, except in small patches or gardens, where manure is used to promote vegetation, with only moderate results compared with those of good lands.

October 1, 1865.

Wishing to observe the Sabbath as a day of rest, and, as far as practicable, keep it holy to the Lord, it was my wish and expectation to take no step to-day towards my projected expedition, and supposed it was so understood by all concerned. Yet I was informed by Mr. Bennaton this morning that it would be necessary for the camarada to start to-day with the pack-mules, so as to let them travel leisurely, and reach the point in three days, to which we would ride upon our better animals in two days. My baggage was accordingly arranged, and the voyage initiated by sending the pack-mules off in advance to-day, though we do not leave until to-morrow morning.

The Portuguese service, at the residence of the Rev. A. L. Blackford, was attended to-day by about twenty-five persons, and though I could not understand what was said, the gravity and apparent interest of the hearers impressed me favorably. It was a mixed congregation of Portuguese and negroes, several of whom have already made a profession of faith in the Lord Jesus Christ as their Saviour, and become members of the Protestant church, which is established, in an informal way, under Presbyterian auspices, by Mr. Blackford. He holds a meeting regularly every Sabbath morning, for preaching, and one in the afternoon, for a practical lecture and catechism exercise. Some of the youths seemed to answer very promptly, and their manner indicated considerable intelligence. It was very evident that most of those in attendance at each service were from 75the humbler class of society, and there will be great difficulty in reaching the higher class of people with Protestant doctrines.

After the second service, we took a simple repast, such as is the custom of the house on Sunday, and though there was little cooked afresh, the supply of articles was quite sufficient to meet all the wants of nature for nutriment.

Mr. and Mrs. Blackford then proceeded together to visit some families where persons were inquiring the way of salvation; and they informed me it was their custom to spend every Sabbath evening in this kind of duty.

It is to be hoped that their efforts may be blessed to the enlightenment of the minds of the people, and to the salvation of the souls of many who are now in the most hopeless darkness. It really seems that this papal dominion induces a worse state of the heart, in regard to holy things, than the want of all religious instruction would be likely to exhibit; and the form of religious services takes precedence to holy living.

One of my greatest difficulties, in proposing to locate with my friends in this country, is the conviction that we cannot so entirely set aside the recognized religion of the government as to worship God according to our own faith. It will, however, be an essential stipulation, that we shall exercise entire freedom of conscience, without any interference in our religious worship by the official authorities, while our policy will be to detach ourselves as far as possible from all associations with the papal element of the population.

I have brought these matters especially to the attention of the Minister of Agriculture, and, from what I learn of his general character for liberal views and high-toned, independent action, it is reasonable to expect some definite and satisfactory measure will be adopted through his influence with the government.

76Monday, October 2, 1865.

Getting an early breakfast at the Hotel da Europa, Mr. Bennaton and I started on our tour at 8 o’clock this morning. I was mounted upon a gray horse of rather unpromising appearance, that afforded quite a precarious reliance for an extended journey through a rough country; but my friend Sampson having returned to the city, made an arrangement by which this animal would be replaced by a mule belonging to his partner, Mr. Gephardt, upon our arrival at Cachoeira. He likewise placed at my disposal a McClellan saddle for the trip, and being accustomed to use this style of saddle, I will gladly avail myself of it.

Mr. Bennaton had two fine mules of his own, which he expected to ride alternately; one being led by his servant who was mounted upon a horse furnished by the President for this voyage.

We stopped at an inn styled here “hospedana,” some eighteen miles on our way, where we got a lunch of sardines and mush made of farina, called here “angu.” Our animals were also fed and rested for two hours, when all being refreshed the travel was resumed. We reached Cachoeira, the residence of Mr. Sampson, at 5 o’clock P. M., and just in time to take dinner with the party. Mr. D. H. Sampson and Mr. Gephardt were left at São Paulo, but a telegraphic despatch had preceded us, and we met a hospitable welcome by Mr. S. Sampson and Mr. Dully, with Dr. Clary, who was a guest in the house. The last-named gentleman, like myself, has been identified with the movement of the South, and has left the country with a view to make his future residence in Brazil.

Tuesday, October 3, 1865.

Early this morning I set out from the house with Mr. S. Sampson to visit the tunnel which they are working for the extension of the railroad from the city of São Paulo to Jundiahi. It has already been opened entirely through, 77after immense labor in blasting rock throughout the whole extent; and the work now consists in enlarging the space overhead, by blasting the rock from the roof of the tunnel. There is a temporary track with iron rail, and a mule-car running from the work to the outlet, by which the loosened stone is being discharged constantly. Yet there is a large accumulation of boulders and irregular masses of quarried rock lying near the scene of operations. This drilling of holes overhead requires great accuracy in the striker; for should he miss the head of the iron drill, the force of his blow with the large sledge-hammer would be upon the hand or wrist of the person holding the drill.

It is said, however, that accidents are rare, and when the hammer glances from the head of the drill the injury is not likely to be serious. This tunnel has a shaft running up from the middle to the surface of the ridge; and some months ago, while letting down four negroes, the cable parted, precipitating them upon the rock beneath, by which three were killed, and the fourth crippled for life.

In entering the tunnel the darkness made a lamplight necessary, and the roughness of the way, with here and there puddles of water, rendered the use of a staff essential to safe progress. It was quite cool in the tunnel, as a current of air is circulating constantly through its entire extent; and thus the large number of laborers employed suffer no inconvenience. When this work is completed, all the line to Jundiahi will be ready for laying the track with iron.

The road is already in running order from Santos to São Paulo—a distance of forty miles—and when completed from São Paulo to Jundiahi, there will be an addition of forty-five miles, making a continuous line of eighty-five miles. It is projected, and surveys have already been made, to construct a further extension of the road from Jundiahi to Campinas, a distance of twenty-six miles.

Could I feel assured of the ultimate completion of this 78line of railroad to Araraquara, it would enhance very much the interest I will take in examining lands in that remote territory which I expect to visit.

Our route to-day lay along the line of the railroad, and I was forcibly impressed with the appropriateness of selecting this region for a railroad, as it is most assuredly little fitted for any thing else; and ought to be good for this object, upon the principle of the man who recommended his dog as a good coon-dog, because fit for nothing at which he had ever tried him.

If this land prove good for laying a track, the owners ought to congratulate themselves that a portion of it can be wrested from the copina and formica, species of ants, which seem to have undisputed sway in most parts of the territory through which we passed on our route to Jundiahi.

Mounted upon the fine sprightly mule which was furnished me at Cachoeira, I ascended and descended the various elevations over which our route lay without feeling any apprehension for my safety; and moving briskly, we reached the inn of Senor Pinto, one mile beyond Jundiahi, before 12 o’clock M.

After getting dinner we rode back to survey the village of Jundiahi; and found that it had one rather comely-looking church, with two others that presented quite a dilapidated look. There was also a jail, at which a military sentinel was on duty; and it perhaps contained some of the patriotic recruits, who are taken in chains from this section to São Paulo, and thence sent to Rio de Janeiro, for service in the army against the Paraguayans. We have met on the road a number of these fellows handcuffed, and with a chain secured around their necks, under a mounted guard, who seemed to think that they were doing the country good service, from the large number in charge of a few prisoners.

The architectural taste displayed in Jundiahi is not 79likely to become a pattern for future builders, and therefore I need not go into any special details; yet the fancy painting around the lower portion of the fronts of the buildings upon the street indicated that they were making progress in the fine arts, and that the artists had simply made a trial of their material here, preparatory to greater attainments, when the arrival of the steam-engine may supply them with a better model.

A few small patches of coffee tree were seen near the village which seemed in a thriving condition, and indicated a yield far beyond what might have been anticipated from the appearance of the soil. A change, however, in the land, seems to commence near this place, and it assumes here very much the aspect of red clay, but in some parts the sandy soil predominating, and all lying very irregular, except immediately upon the streams.

I was impressed with the adaptation of the Jundiahi river, a small stream which runs near our inn, for the location of machinery of limited water-power; and when the railroad reaches this place a good mill or cotton ginning establishment would be likely to prove very advantageous on this river. The fall is not very great, but could be arranged so as to afford all requisite power for this or some similar purpose.

Our quarters were so infested with fleas that I found it necessary to rise in the night and denude myself, so as to remove those that might be in my clothing. After this I returned naked to bed, and wrapping up in the sheet closely there was no further annoyance. This was an experiment with me, and it succeeded so well that I commend it to others when they may be thus unfavorably situated. The dirt floors of this house, and the swine around the doors, presented this nuisance; while our bedding and the outfit of the apartments were in very comfortable order, and clean.

At this point we overtook our camarada and pack-mules, which had been sent ahead of us. Getting a change of 80clothing from our baggage, the camarada was again sent in advance, so that his mules would not be required to travel as fast as we would ride. The train now consists of eight animals, and the mule upon which I am mounted makes nine, which is rather more than would be desirable to move together. Our baggage trains, consisting of four mules, two belonging to the camarada, and two of the government stock, which are very poor and weak, requires to move slowly, and can take more time by going forward while we stop, either for repose, or the examination of places of interest during the afternoon.

Wednesday, October 4, 1865.

Moving off this morning at 8 o’clock, we proceeded about fourteen miles, and halted at the house of a German for two hours. This man had originally come into the country as a colonist of the government, and getting a little means had bought this place, paying fifteen hundred ($1500) dollars, for three hundred acres, with a dwelling and other improvements. Here the soil is evidently better than that below Jundiahi, and seems to be well adapted to the growth of corn and cotton. I saw here a specimen of the lint of the pina tree, which is a beautiful, silky-looking fibre, as white as cotton, and when mixed with it makes a beautiful fabric; but it has not strength of fibre when used alone to give proper texture to cloth. The pod is large and spherical, growing upon a tree which is very large and tall, and though the yield is generally abundant, the difficulty of procuring the lint is so great that very little is gathered. Eventually the pods fall to pieces upon the trees, and this fine silky cotton is blown broadcast through the forests. We got at this house a very good meal, consisting of Irish potatoes, corn bread, beans, farina, spare ribs, fried eggs, with a dessert of honey and sweet milk. Coffee was also served after dinner, as is the custom everywhere in the country, but I declined it, as all my available capacity was 81preoccupied by other things. After leaving this place, and proceeding towards Campinas, we began to see the successful culture of the coffee. The extensive plantations, extending with the greatest regularity as far as the eye could reach, presented a most attractive feature after passing the dreary waste for two previous days.

We saw at a point within two miles of Campinas some negroes engaged in loading a huge oxcart with the crude berries of the coffee, from an immense pile that had been gathered from the trees growing along the side of the road. The ground under the trees is raked clean preparatory to stripping the berries with the hand, and an immense broad flat receptacle made of the bamboo cane is placed under each tree, but what fails to fall in this is easily swept up from the smooth earth into a pile, and then taken up and put into the receptacle. These are emptied into piles convenient to the road, from which the coffee is hauled to the drying-yard, where it is spread out and watched carefully to guard it against rain. When dried it is submitted to a process for taking off the hull, and then fanned to clean it more thoroughly, or even by some submitted to cleansing by washing.

Having turned off from the main road to Campinas, we were accommodated with quarters at the antiquated-looking fazenda of Senor Vicente da Sonza Queiroz, who resides in São Paulo, and gave us a letter to his administrator at this place, with the expectation that we would stop here a few days.

After being shown around the premises, Mr. Bennaton and I walked through the back yard into the grove of orange trees in the garden, where we found only bitter sweets that were not desirable to eat. When we returned the old administrator (another word for overseer) expressed himself as not being satisfied with our going into the back yard without notifying him, and there being two single daughters on the premises was doubtless the cause of his concern 82about our visit. All these people, who have not been in contact with the outside world, think it a solemn duty to keep their females in great seclusion. It may be that this old fellow was afraid we might get a peep at the girls, while perambulating his back yard. They have not however been seen as yet, and, unless affording a remarkable contrast to the appearance of their father, it is not likely they will afford much attraction to the gaze of the curious. With every thing about the house of plain style, we are very comfortably fixed, with a large airy room, and two sleeping-apartments.

The coffee apparatus at this place is of the oldest and most elementary construction, and therefore it may be appropriately described in the outset of my observation. In the first place the yard for drying is simply a firm smooth surface of the ground, with a shelter at one side of it, under which the coffee is carried in baskets, if there is a prospect of rain. When this drying is completed, it is taken into a circular box of perhaps fifteen feet diameter, and subjected to the operation of a large wheel of wood, having a surface of twelve inches, that rolls round in this circular box containing the grains of coffee, and bruising or crushing off the hulls as it passes repeatedly over them. This wheel revolves upon a sweep or beam, to which oxen are yoked and move on the outside of the ring, while the sweep is attached to an upright post in the centre of the ring. After this slow and bungling procedure has done its work, the coffee is fanned or screened and afterwards a hand sieve is employed with blowing by the laborers, to remove the fine investments of the grain. That portion which it is thought necessary to wash is now washed in large wooden troughs by hand, after which another drying process completes the preparations for market.

I saw, at this place, that remarkable phenomenon, called the Monjolo, and really was impressed with the simplicity of this primary exemplification of the mechanical adaptation 83of means to an end; but I could not restrain laughter at the ludicrous display of see-saw motion which was kept up every half minute. The apparatus, if it is entitled to be dignified by that name, consists in an upright support for a beam, which works by a sort of hinge upon its top, and having at one end a pestle secured beneath it, that plays into a mortar, while the other end of the beam is excavated into a trough. The water pours from a small channel or conductor into this trough, and when filled it becomes heavier than the other extremity. This end is thus depressed, while the other is raised aloft; and the slanting position allowing the water to escape, there is no longer sufficient weight to counterbalance the end having the pestle, and consequently it descends forcibly into the mortar; pounding, by its frequent repetition, whatever may be placed in it. So soon as the level is again brought about, of course the water again fills the trough, and it is again depressed and emptied, keeping up a constant see-saw operation, day and night, unless the beam is propped aloft, and thus its motion arrested.

The fulfilment of that ideal principle of perpetual motion is more nearly attained in this extremely simple mechanism than by any machinery with which science has favored the world; and though much more efficient means have been devised, of accomplishing all that can be done by the Monjolo, yet its ready adaptation, with a very small stream of water, renders it useful in the hands of many, who cannot employ other labor-saving appliances. It pounds coffee, big hominy, farina, and would beat dough finely.

Thursday, October 5, 1865.

Breakfasting at Tapera, the fazenda of Senor Queiroz, at which we were quartered, we mounted our mules, with a servant upon another, and set out for the fazenda of Senor Joaquim Bonifacio D’Amaral. The rest of our train was left at Tapera until our return, and with a fine pasture 84and plenty of corn, the stock ought to improve by the rest. After riding something over four miles, with the assistance of a guide we reached the large and really elegant establishment of the gentleman above-named. Presenting the letter which we bore to him, he gave us a reception which assured me we would enjoy the visit, and the result fully confirmed my anticipations.

Although I did not speak his language, yet he seemed to communicate his spirit through the words reported to me, and evidently thought and spoke with much intelligence. While his bearing was dignified and refined, there was a familiarity and simplicity in his manner that soon caused me to feel easy in his presence.

He ordered refreshments for us, and a large waiter was brought by the servant with coffee, ale, and brandy; but we only partook of the ale. I had taken coffee before breakfast, and then café leite (coffee with milk) at breakfast, and really had no mind for any further stimulant, but courtesy demanded that something be taken.

The parlor of Senor Bonifacio is spacious and furnished very tastefully; but the plan of the house is marred by having the small bedrooms, called here “alcova,” without proper ventilation, and opening into the parlor. These are also neatly furnished.

A separate apartment was assigned to each of us, and every thing furnished that could be desired. The beds were particularly neat, the pattern of the bedstead being that of the French style for a single person, and yet very capacious, upon which lay spring-mattresses of the best quality, and the whole covered with sheets and counterpanes of the whitest hue and most tasteful pattern. The elegant earthenware jug, or large bottle, for holding water to drink, was in a plate of the same material upon the table, and is a very convenient article that is much used here for keeping the water cool, and, at the same time, free from dust that enters a pitcher. A fine china bowl and pitcher were also 85at hand; and at night, a bathing-tub of metal, two feet and a half across the mouth and eight or ten inches deep, was brought in and filled with water, in which it was a luxury to perform ablutions. This feature of every well-regulated Brazilian dwelling is admirably adapted to the comfort of the inmates of a warm climate; and yet, a large proportion of the people here use tepid or even warm water for bathing their persons or their feet, when cold water would evidently be more pleasant and more invigorating.

A new model of candlestick, with a glass upon it to protect the light from the current of air in carrying it, was used for our bedrooms, and, apart from being very appropriate, was made of silver in the most tasteful style.

The dining-room in this establishment, as in most houses of the country, is very large; and, although the family-table is perhaps fifteen feet long, a table of twice that length could be accommodated in the room. Every portion of the table-furniture was neat, and yet no special display in the ceremonies of the table. The gentleman of the house was seated at one end of the table, with his wife upon his left hand and myself on his right, upon the opposite sides of the table. There was neither ham, turkey, or fowl of any kind for dinner, which in our country are considered essentials to a well supplied table; and yet there was quite a sufficient variety of articles to constitute an excellent dinner. Roast beef and beefsteak, mutton, and pork were all served in the most approved modes, and with a good assortment of vegetables and a delicious dessert, the dinner was relished very much. Wines of the finest quality were upon the table, and coffee of superb make was served after all other things were concluded. The combination of wines and coffee seems to be an excess of stimulants in the routine of dining in this country, and cannot be promotive of digestion; but I relish very much the small cup of fine strong coffee, such as we had here, and will fall into this habit of coffee after dinner without any difficulty.

86After dinner, we were furnished with horses of most excellent saddle-qualities, and accompanied our host, Senor Bonifacio, in a ride to his plantation. Here we saw the coffee trees in full bearing, planted in lines and squares, so as to make the distance about nine feet between each tree, and extending over a very large area of land. The appearance of this field gives evidence of much careful attention, and though the coffee trees continue to grow in the same place from fifteen to twenty years, it is found to be important to their production that the land should be kept in good order; and, if not cultivated in other things, it is annually cleaned around the trees, and very often a compost, formed by the hull of the coffee with other articles, is put upon the ground to enrich it.

There were some young trees recently planted which had not borne any coffee, and a crop is not expected until the fourth year after setting out the plants, unless the plants should be over a year old, and then a partial yield will be obtained at the end of the third year from transplanting.

A nursery of the coffee plants was shown to us, and presented much the appearance of a young plumb thicket, when the sprouts had reached the height of from eighteen inches to two feet. This coffee nursery had been planted among some advanced stalks of the mandioca, which served to shade them when young and tender; and they had been gradually thinned out to give the plants more air and sun as their growth advanced. There was a large piece of ground in readiness to receive these plants so soon as there might be sufficient rain to transplant them.

This land had the timber felled and dried, when fire was applied and burnt over the whole, destroying all the leaves and small limbs, and yet leaving the larger limbs and trunks upon the ground. In the midst of this network, it was expected to set out the coffee trees, and between them to plant corn and beans, with the expectation of getting a full crop of the latter articles. Of course no ploughing is 87practicable, and all the work is done with the hoe, as is the case with nearly all the culture of this country.

The corn which had been planted here had usually five or six stalks in the hill, and I observed from the number of old stalks from last year, standing in some places together, that it is the custom to let this number remain in one place. Although the yield is reported to be good with this mode of culture, it is very evident that fewer grains in a hill and the use of the plough would enhance the result.

Senor Bonifacio showed me a specimen of a large many-toothed plough, which was of French manufacture, and fitted alone for ground that was smooth and without roots. He has also a specimen of the large American plough, which is better adapted to ordinary use. But he has done little more than experiment with these implements, and the difficulties attending the use of the complicated French ploughing machine will be a barrier to its successful employment; while the want of knowledge and of training on the part of negroes and animals will doubtless prevent him from turning the other to practical account. The farmer of the United States is needed here to learn the fazendeiros of Brazil the proper use of the plough, and should any considerable number remove to this country, they will effect quite a revolution in agriculture in a few years.

The trunks of many of the immense trees which had constituted the original forest were lying upon a piece of fresh land, and the Pon D’Alho and Figare Branco were pointed out to me as the indications of good soil, when found thus in close proximity. The former has the smell of garlic, even in the dry state, and when burned, it yields a large proportion of potash from the ashes. It is said likewise to have the property of attracting the magnetic needle to such an extent as to interfere with the accuracy of the compass in surveying lands where it is to be encountered.

The Jangada is a small tree which springs up on land of good quality which has been under cultivation, but is 88thrown out to rest and recuperate. The second forest growth upon this kind of soil is called in the Portuguese language “Capoera;” and the land varies in quality, as it has been more or less exhausted by the first cultivation. Hence the importance of noting those growths upon it, which indicate that it continues to be productive.

My object in examining these improved plantations in the outset is to get information as to the different qualities of soil and their productions; and at the same time to get the views and the experience of disinterested parties, as to all matters that may assist me in making a judicious selection of territory for my friends.

At the saw-mill of Senor Bonifacio, near his residence, was seen the wood of the Cabriuve, which is a very hard, brown material, used in constructing machinery, or for building purposes. The Tariba is a yellow and very durable substance, used for posts, which are set in the earth. The Sucupina is very bitter to the taste, and is also of a yellow hue. It is likewise very durable when partially embedded in the ground. The Goncalo Aldes is of a most beautifully-variegated, dark brown and yellow color. It is very hard and finely grained, so as to admit of the highest polish; and is employed for the frames of pictures or other decorative work by cabinet makers.

The different qualities of wood enumerated in the last paragraph have been used in connection with the magnificent dwelling of our host, which has just been completed in the most elaborate style.

A team of fourteen oxen was seen here, attached to a strong high-wheeled cart, beneath which a huge log was suspended at one end and dragged upon the other end in the manner adopted in the States. These carts have the wheels fixed firmly upon the ends of the axles, so that all revolve together, and this plan is generally observed in all the vehicles for the use of oxen even when there are four wheels. The junction of the axle with the other portions 89of the wagon or cart is not usually lubricated so as to prevent the creaking noise from friction in the revolution of the wheels, and consequently progressing is attended with a sound that may be heard at the distance usually of half a mile, or even farther, in some instances. This harsh and shrill sound is thought to have a very important effect upon the performance of the oxen that have become accustomed to it, and unless it is heard they manifest an unwillingness to go forward with the load. Hence it is that these carts are rarely greased, and the drivers consider the music as a necessary accompaniment to their carts.

At one time the municipal authorities of the city of São Paulo decreed that those carts which entered the capital should be so lubricated as to obviate this noise, declaring that it was a nuisance to the city. But the consequence was that the carts did not come in to bring the wood for fuel or to perform any other service, the owners insisting that the oxen would not work without this old familiar sound, and the edict was repealed.

Immediately in front of the residence, and not more than one hundred yards distant, is the machinery of the saw-mill, grist-mill, and coffee-mill, all moved by water-power, brought by a race from a dam some four or five hundred yards off.

Upon this stream there are seven distinct falls, and this has fixed the name of the place, and of its proprietor, as “Settequéda,” the Portuguese word for seven falls. This gentleman is known far and near by this name, and it is the ordinary title given him by his friends in social intercourse.

As the apparatus here embodies all the most recent improvements for treating the coffee, it will be described with some minuteness. It is what is styled a “despolpidor,” and receives the coffee directly from the tree, without any preliminary process of drying, and even while the berries are yet red, previous to their becoming black. This saves much 90trouble which attends other processes, and enables the coffee-grower to gather his crops earlier than when it is required to dry upon the tree, or to be dried after gathering, prior to cleaning.

The coffee brought directly from the trees is placed first in a receptacle built with brick and cement, containing water; which not only washes the berries, but floats them forward with a current that runs from this tank by a small trough to another receiver, which constitutes the despolpidor.

In this there is a revolving cylinder of brass or copper, which has the surface roughened like a blacksmith’s rasp; and as the coffee passes into the cavity where this revolves, it comes in contact with this rough exterior surface, and the outside hull of the berry is detached, and the investing membrane of each separate grain is more or less torn, but not entirely separated. This being accomplished, the hulls drop out at a waste-way, and the grains are carried below with the water into a large reservoir. Here there are arms or sweeps of wood revolving upon a central shaft, and constantly stirring and agitating the coffee in the water, as it passes with the current to the most dependent portion. There it is subjected to a percolating process of washing by the passage of the water through it, and out below through a perforated plate. From this it is dipped up by a system of cups or buckets, such as is used for elevating flour in our bolting apparatus, and is deposited in a large cemented reservoir, from which any remaining water is drained off through perforations in the bottom. The coffee is now taken out to be subjected to the drying process for the first and only time.

The yard for drying the coffee, called “tereiro,” is a neatly paved, level space, with a number of divisions for receiving the coffee in the different stages of drying. This being laid with glazed tile, and entirely free from dust or 91other impurity, that can affect the clean grains of coffee, the drying is accomplished in the most satisfactory manner.

As a portion of the investment of each grain remains attached to it after it is completely dry, the process of fanning has still to be resorted to; and in this unique establishment two fans are connected, so as to receive the coffee one from the other; and the last so arranged with a sieve of graduated openings, that the large, fine grains of coffee are separated from the smaller and imperfect grains. All being now entirely clean and assorted, it is ready for sacking.

The house in which this entire machinery is arranged is not exceeding twenty-five feet square; and though there are three different elevations, in which different stages of the work are conducted, yet but one floor is required in the building. This compact and nicely-adjusted apparatus does great credit to the energy and enterprise of the proprietor; and though he has received many suggestions from other establishments, there is, perhaps, no single coffee-mill in Brazil that combines so much efficiency and economy of labor in treating this great staple. I would therefore urge those who may be entering upon this business to make a visit to Settequéda, even should it be two hundred miles distant, so as to get the details of this establishment.

The coffee treated in this way has a value in the market of from five to ten per cent. above that cleaned by the ordinary process; and when a fine article is desired for family use, it will command in Brazil a higher price than any of the coffee shipped to the United States ever brings in that market. I am informed here, that none of the finest specimens of coffee are shipped from Brazil to the United States, as the merchants will not pay the prices at which they sell in Rio de Janeiro. But these fine lots of coffee find a market in England, and consequently all the best coffee takes that channel of trade. We are accustomed, in the United States, to think that it is 92mere talk as to the superiority of the living in England; yet, undoubtedly, their progress in manufactures and arts is not without a proportionate advancement in what pertains to comfort in their households, and to gratification of taste at their tables.

Friday, October 6, 1865.

We took our leave of Settequéda this morning, and the gentlemanly proprietor rode with us to an adjoining fazenda belonging to his sister.

Here we had an exemplification of another process for hulling the coffee, and next in importance to that we have described as being effected by the despolpidor. It consists in the use of the mortar and pestle, after the manner adopted in the rice mills of South Carolina.

A number of mortars being excavated from a solid trunk of wood, and thus placed side by side in a row, constitutes the first element. Next, pestles for each mortar are arranged, with upright pieces of timber, having an aperture of about two and a half feet long, and two inches in width; and these are set in a frame so as to preserve a perpendicular position. The final appliance is a shaft, with arms extending so as to catch in these apertures at each revolution, and raising the pestle a certain distance, the arm slips again from the aperture, and the pestle falls into the mortar, thus by its weight pounding the coffee. These arms are so arranged that a portion of the pestles are elevated at each arc of the circle of revolution; so the work is continuous, under the operation of the water-power by which the machinery is put in motion. By this process the hull is very effectually broken and detached from the grain, but then the use of a ventilator is requisite to separate the grains and larger portions of the hull, and the sieve is required with the blowing of the operation, while the coffee is thrown up in the air time after time, to clean out all foreign matter.

93In coming out from the examination of the working of the coffee we were regaled with some very fine oranges, which were the more prized because almost out of season in this region. There were also some fine specimens of the Mamão, a fruit which has its name from the supposed resemblance to the female breast. It grows upon the tree in clusters near the trunk, or, in a different species, upon long pendulous branches extending out some distance from the body of the tree. It is nearly as large as a small cantelope, and resembles in color and taste the mushmelon.

As we were leaving this place Dom Vaz, of Campinas, was met at the gate, and introduced to us by Senor Bonifacio. He was coming, as we supposed, upon a professional visit, and was mounted upon a very fine mule, which is the most usual and most efficient means of transportation in this country. I was impressed with his intelligent and sprightly appearance, with a characteristic energy and activity in his manner, though perhaps fifty years of age. I learned he formerly resided in Rio de Janeiro, but not having good health there he removed to the city of Campinas, and has, in a few years, secured a large and profitable business in his profession as a physician.

On our way back to our quarters we overtook Senor Joaquim Egydio de Sonsa Aranha, to whom a letter was delivered from Senor Dom Bernardo Gaveão. It was read, and then he extended his hand, expressing his satisfaction at making my acquaintance. His physiognomy is the most demure, and his manner the least demonstrative, of any gentleman that I have yet seen.

He was the last President of the House of Deputies of the Provincial Assembly, and there may be a great deal in this grave exterior, proving that deep water runs smooth. Upon reaching his house, he offered us whatever we might choose from his enumerated assortment of drinks. Mr. Bennaton indicated ale, and this, with porter, was produced upon a waiter by a negro. I was now particularly struck 94with an illustration of the sentiment, that “Actions speak louder than words,” on the part of our host; who, instead of ordering a cork-screw, made a twisting motion of the hand, and a look in the direction from which he expected it to be brought. This was understood, and the article brought accordingly to open the bottles.

Some other gentlemen of a more lively cast rode up soon after our arrival, and, dismounting, left their mules, with the bridles thrown down upon the ground. This seems to be a signal for the animal to stand until some one comes to take charge of it, and all well-trained mules seem to understand this; but occasionally, as in this party, one walks off to look after what he may be able to gather from the yard or the crib.

Upon the entrance of this party there was no formal introduction to us, and yet bows were exchanged, and one of them approached and shook hands with me. I should have construed the previous demeanor of Senor Egydio, in connection with his failure to present me to his friends, as indicative of a want of proper respect; but his manner with them was much the same as previously, and I am informed by Mr. Bennaton that introductions under such circumstances are not customary in this country. The persons meeting in this way are expected to find out each other as best they may; and, with this view, it is usual to set about a system of interrogation as to the name, business, distinction, &c., of one another. I am not favorably impressed with this style of doing business, and must think that a due regard for the courtesies of life require that introductions should be given when strangers meet in this way.

We made but a brief visit, and left without any special demonstration of interest in our movements by this demure provincial deputy. That he intended to be polite, I have no reason to doubt; but if I had to encounter such a demeanor from all persons to whom letters are borne, the 95most natural inference would be, that my mission was not entirely acceptable.

After returning to Tapera, where our baggage had been left, we proceeded to pack up our trunks, so as to let the camarada start this afternoon with the pack-mules, and thus keep in advance of us.

In looking around the yard here, I observed a large number of hogs, and, for the most part, in good order, but most of them being molested with the small bicho that penetrates the skin wherever there is least hair. This little insect is black, like a flea, but enters the skin like a chigre, and is very prone to get into the feet of persons who are even for a few minutes without shoes, and make a sore place if not extracted.

In the afternoon, we took a walk into the coffee field, and though the most of the crop had been gathered, there were a number of trees having their full supply of berries. Upon counting some of the best-filled limbs, I found a single straight twig to contain about seventy-five berries or one hundred and fifty grains, and three pounds to the tree is an average yield.

Saturday, October 7, 1865.

Our pack-mules having gone on yesterday afternoon, we rode out this morning from the fazenda of Senor Queiroz, known as Tapera, and proceeded to Campinas, where we expected to call upon Dr. Reinhardt; but he was absent on a visit to Sorocaba. This gentleman came originally from the United States, with others, under a commission to make a botanical exploration of the country, and, after closing his engagement with the government, he concluded to remain in the country, and is very much esteemed by all who know him.

This city, like other interior towns, has but little to attract the favorable notice of one who has been accustomed to the display of architectural taste in the cities of the 96United States. Yet there are a number of neatly-constructed houses, and those more recently built manifest an improvement in style which seems to augur better for the future.

The elaborate work of carving which has been executed in the recently erected Catholic church exceeds any specimen of native art which has been seen in Brazil. The most extensive decorations of the interior of the building, and the most artistic figures upon eight different altars on either side of the long and lofty hall, prepare us for the grand and rich ornaments which encircle the great altar at the end of the church. The great length of the building, and the lofty elevation of the unsupported arch overhead, are, of themselves, remarkable features of this region, and would commend this structure to our attention, if there was nothing to attract within.

But the specimens of exquisite carving in native wood of the country present the most elegant and delicate workmanship that the world can produce. It seems as if the genius of some other land had been transformed to this city to give a fancy sketch which might seem to elevate the taste of the people. All the work is not yet completed, and there were several artisans engaged in carving out figures from the rough pieces of wood. But there seems to be no general movement towards finishing the work, and the general aspect of the exterior of the building is that of a ruin, rather than the progressive improvement of a growing structure.^[12]

The common people in all these interior towns look as if they had little to do, and less to think about, and it evidently 97afforded considerable curiosity to men and women as we passed through the city.

Most of the better class of women confine themselves closely to their houses, or, if seen upon the street, have their heads covered with the hood of a cloak which envelops their persons. But a more numerous class of females err on the other extreme; and with bare heads and bare arms, their natural developments are open to all observers. There is a style adopted very generally by this class, of having only the chemise on the body, and a skirt about the waist, thus bringing parts into view which modesty prompts most females to conceal with great care.

This free and easy apparel is also adopted by the female servants that are seen about the inns or hospedarias for the accommodation of travellers; and while it may do for a negro woman employed at washing or other duties, I am surprised that the white women, who have any self-respect, should appear in public, thus loosely attired about their breasts.

It is not uncommon on the route we came through the country, to see the Portuguese and negroes accompanying the troops of pack-mules without a shirt. Though they are provided with this garment, it is thrown across the mule upon which the man is mounted, or tied around his waist, and thus the sun comes in direct contact with the skin. This kind of exposure cannot be comfortable, and it cannot be necessary for the free use of the arms when no labor is performed, yet they seem to have a partiality for stripping to the buff in this way. Common decency in the United States would forbid this sort of public denuding of the person, but here it is a part of the programme of this kind of life, and is not noticed by those accustomed to the habits of the country, so far as respects this class of people.

On the contrary of the view here given, it will be found that the Brazilian gentleman is quite as circumspect in 98regard to his person as respects exposure and cleanliness as the most fastidious taste would exact.

The lands lying along the road after leaving the immediate vicinity of Campinas were not found under such fine cultivation, and we saw again signs of the copina, which throws up its mounds of earth in almost every abandoned field of this country.

We stopped about noon at one of the roadside inns and got our horses fed, while we waited leisurely for dinner to be prepared for us. Resting until 4 o’clock P. M., the voyage was resumed, and riding twelve miles, we stopped for the night at the hospedaria of Ponte Atibaia. Here we had condiments with our supper and fared well in all respects.^[13]

Sunday, October 8, 1865.

All hands were around this morning at half-past four o’clock, to prepare for the road, and coffee was ordered while we dressed. Each of the party seemed to have put on his best outfit in view of the day, and the fact that Ybicaba was our destination. Even our camarada had put on a neat white shirt and boots, whereas he had heretofore been barefooted, as is the custom with this class of men on most occasions.

It presents quite an odd spectacle to see one of these fellows mounted upon a mule with bare feet, and a huge pair of spurs strapped about his ankles. His stirrups are purposely small, so as to receive but two or three toes, and when they have rode a great deal, quite a space is formed between the toes, by the constant pressure of the stirrup. My inference in regard to thus having the stirrups so small is, to prevent the possibility of the entire foot being caught 99in the stirrups in case a man is thrown from his mule, as it certainly cannot be for comfort or convenience, either in mounting or riding with the bare feet.

The negro servants here much more frequently wear shoes than the Portuguese camaradas or troupeiros, and the boy Joaquim who accompanies Mr. Bennaton is well-dressed, and keeps himself neat and clean at all times. He is out this morning with white pants and his hair combed and braided in the most approved darkey style. He is beginning to understand my little phrases of the Portuguese language, and seems disposed to render me any assistance or service required.

When we set out this morning, shortly after five o’clock, it was not yet clear daylight, and the atmosphere was quite cool, rendering our overcoats indispensable for comfort. Indeed they have been used every morning until 9 o’clock, but after that hour it becomes warm, and from 12 o’clock until 3 o’clock in the afternoon the sun is oppressively hot. The heat here, however, is not greater than is experienced in the United States during the summer months, and the temperature of this climate at night is invariably more pleasant than in the Southern States.

All well know that the winter in the United States is during those months which constitute the summer of Brazil; and vice versa, so that, now, while it is becoming colder north of the equator, the heat is increasing in this southern latitude.

Thus far, less inconvenience has been experienced from the heat than was anticipated, and but for the protracted drought, which has parched the earth, and retarded vegetation of every kind in this section, the atmosphere would now be more agreeable during the middle of the day.

It is no part of my plan to eulogize the climate, or any other feature of this country, except as the facts may warrant a favorable estimate. Having an opportunity to judge of the nature of the climate in the latter part of winter and 100spring, with the forthcoming summer, I may determine with some certainty what will be its effects upon people from our latitude, by my personal experience.

The range of the thermometer as yet has not exceeded 85° Fahrenheit; and the sensible influence of the sun is not greater than I have experienced at a corresponding season in South Carolina and Georgia.

Most of the region of country through which we passed to-day consisted of plateau land rather sparsely timbered with large trees, and some of it resembled the low lands a short distance from the banks of our rivers. This was overgrown with shrubbery and bamboo cane, and having a growth of small trees interspersed with large timber. The general aspect of the surface was that of an undulating plain, but occasionally we encountered a ravine of considerable depth, making the descent and ascent rather difficult for our animals, and almost impracticable for carts or wagons.

The supply of water was more deficient upon our route to-day than upon any part of the road travelled heretofore; and however desirable land might be here, the difficulty of procuring an adequate supply of water, either for drinking or for machinery, would be a serious objection.

Twelve miles from our starting point we entered the town of Lemeire, which has sprung up within a few years to a respectable size. Some of the houses presented a very good appearance, but the usually dull aspect of these mud-built houses gives a monotony to all these interior towns which may excuse any detailed notice.

Since leaving the mountain range, this side of Jundiahi, the nature of the soil and the general configuration of the surface has undergone a gradual change, with a better adaptation to agricultural purposes. The dark reddish or brown color of the earth, which predominates in this region, is considered to be of volcanic origin in some former period of the world, and called “terra rocha.” It is found to be especially well adapted to the culture of coffee, and likewise 101well adapted to the growth of corn and beans, while the experiment made thus far with the cotton plant promises also an abundant yield. There is, however, a somewhat sandy level soil in parts, interspersed with these dark red lands, which present to my view very favorable indications for the culture of cotton, and the experience of planters will soon develop whether the former or the latter can be cultivated to best advantage in this crop.

At 9 o’clock A. M. we arrived at the magnificent fazenda of Commendador José Vergueiro, known as Ybicaba. He gave me a hearty welcome in the English language, and told me any thing and every thing in his house was to be used as my own while it might suit me to remain with him. In extenuation of his imperfect use of the English tongue, he said that he had told Mr. Bennaton in Portuguese, of his desire to accommodate me, and he wished me to make known through him any thing I might want.

I was very much pleased to find here, also, Senor Henry Whitaker, who speaks English well, and my sojourn here is likely to be relieved of much of the embarrassment of intercourse with others. The lady of Commendador Vergueiro does not speak English, but seems very kindly disposed, and very dignified in her manner.

We reached here just in time to join the family at breakfast, and after a ride of eighteen miles I enjoyed the tender and fat beefsteak, with nice wheat bread and coffee, in connection with the other supplies of the table. There was such a variety of articles for breakfast, and every thing in such excellent order, that it could not have been much improved by notice of our coming. After concluding breakfast, Mr. Whitaker, Mr. Bennaton and myself, indulged a walk round the garden, where quite a variety of fruit trees were seen growing in the greatest perfection. The orange, the pine apple, and also the peach, were among the number. A specimen of the genuine tea-plant was also seen here, but 102there was only a few plants, and no attempt to cultivate it for use of the family or for market.

Between 3 and 4 o’clock P. M. dinner was announced, and we had a most sumptuous feast of good things. The absence of fowl of any kind was again noticed, and turkeys, ducks and chickens are evidently not so much prized here as with us. Big hominy, of the whitest and nicest form, is used here with boiled milk as a dessert; and though very different from our mode of using the article, it is very good in this way. I told Mr. Bennaton that it would be more relished if fried, or eaten with gravy, as a part of the substantials of the meal. But he said it would surprise the people in this country very much to see the canjeen, as it is here called, eaten in that mode; and I therefore conform to the custom of the land, and take it as dessert with milk or syrup.

In the afternoon we walked out to the colony of Germans, French and Portuguese, located upon this place. I counted one hundred and sixty-four tenements for families, and learned that there were thirty-six others occupied, making two hundred families. They are here engaged to gather the coffee from the fields, at fixed rates for each bushel, and have a house with a small parcel of land, upon which to grow a little corn or other articles for themselves. They live in the most saving manner, with a view to accumulate enough to buy a place and live upon it, and the interior of their houses seemed to have a scanty outfit.

Monday, October 9, 1865.

Before leaving my room this morning I asked the servant for water to take a general bath, saying, “Fraga me agua, para lavor,” to which his reply was an interrogation, “Quente ou frio?” (warm or cold,) and I said, “Quero frio,” (I wish cold.)

Thus my acquisitions in the language are beginning to avail me, and I trust in a short time to be able to make known all my ordinary wants.

103We set out before breakfast to make a survey of the extensive establishment for treating the coffee, which is run by steam-power.

The first step is to remove the outer hull of the berries, and for this purpose he employs four dispolpadores, such as described at Settequéda, each being capable of hulling five hundred bushels of the crude berries in a day, making two thousand in a day when all are fully employed. Not having a supply of water sufficient to move the machinery, or to float the coffee into the apparatus, it has to be washed before going into the dispolpadores if it should be dirty, and it may then be put in while wet. After the hull is removed, the coffee grains having still their separate investment, are dried in the ample tile-covered yard that is adjoining the building. The cleaning process is conducted by two large fans, and if any of the smaller grains slip through the sieve of the fan without being entirely cleaned, they are submitted to hand sieves. Thus, all the coffee is prepared for sacking. The specimens seen in the building were entirely free from dust or any foreign matter, and the proprietor states will command from two to five cents per pound more than the rolled or pounded coffee.

The store-room contains an immense amount of uncleaned coffee, and the crop made on this place this year is reckoned at fifty thousand arrobas, or sixteen hundred thousand pounds of clean coffee. This is below the annual average crop, and Senor Vergueiro thinks the blooming trees indicate a larger yield for the next crop.

This coffee milling establishment is upon a much larger scale than that of Settequéda, but there are a number of conveniences and improvements in the latter, which the want of water does not admit here.

There is a saw-mill adjoining the coffee-mill, which is run by a separate engine of four horse-power, and performs very satisfactorily with a perpendicular saw.

104In addition to these there is a cotton-gin, and packing apparatus under the same roof.

An American cotton-gin of seventy saws is run by the same engine, of eight horse-power, which works the coffee machinery. The compress or packing apparatus is a pattern which has been in use for some years in the United States, but is made upon a small scale to pack bales of ninety-six pounds for transportation upon pack-mules.

The gin and compress were brought from Santos upon wagons drawn by oxen.

The ordinary hemp bagging is used here for covering the cotton, and the sepo vine, which grows in this country abundantly, makes an admirable substitute for roping. It is very unyielding, and being smooth, with a facility for knotting, it fulfils all the indications completely and economically.