HUNTING A HOME IN BRAZIL. (continued 4)

(Signed) “Manoel Francisco Oliveiro,

“Francisco Correa de Arruda,

“José Aranha da Amaral.

“Araraquara, October 29, 1865.”

“São Lorenço, October 29, 1865.

“Gentlemen:—Your address received to-day causes the most grateful emotions, which are enhanced by my separation from those included in your expressions of sympathy: and for them allow me to thank you cordially.

“The regard manifested for myself in this communication, and the personal kindness of your people toward me, cheers my heart, and I feel that I am surrounded by true friends in Araraquara.

“My visit to this country inaugurates a new era, which I trust may conduce to the mutual welfare and enjoyment of our people in after years, and promote likewise the best interests of Brazil.

“Should a suitable location be found for myself and my friends it will be sincerely gratifying to make our home amongst you. I am, very respectfully,

“Your obedient servant,

“J. McF. Gaston.

“To Messrs. Manoel Francisco de Oliveiro,

Francisco Correa de Arruda,

José Aranha da Amaral.”

It will be perceived that this ceremony was on Sunday, and though public business is generally suspended on the Sabbath as a holiday, there is nothing which these people may not do on Sunday so far as any religious scruples are 154concerned. That we must do in Rome as Rome does, is a bad maxim in morals or in politics; and yet there are certain relations to others in life, and to the circumstances by which we are surrounded, that are next to an impossibility to control. These considerations come to mind constantly here, and it is proper that they should enter into the calculations of our people who may think of removing to this country, as it will be found very difficult to act in such a way as to overcome the influences at work on all sides to subvert our views of duty as to the Sabbath. When a number of like faith and practice are associated together in one community, they may establish their own customs and observances; and the importance of locating together will not subserve this end only, but many other useful objects for our future welfare.

Monday, October 30, 1865.

General Wood and myself, with our party, accompanied by Colonel Joaquim Lorenço and his son-in-law, Senor Francisco, left São Lorenço this morning shortly after five o’clock A. M. Our object being the exploration of the fazendas of Lagrada, Cambuy and Monte Allegre, it was expected that we would be out several days, and provisions were accordingly made by the old Colonel for all our prospective wants during the tour.

We rode first through a portion of the tract of land known as Lagrada, containing thirty thousand acres of land, and belonging to our host, which he proposed to sell if it is desired. It consists of campo land in two-thirds of its extent, and the remaining third of forest land. Our route this morning was through the campo land, in which the soil was red, and having quite a variety of small trees and shrubs. Some of those bore fruits, while others were of a medicinal character. Among the latter were found the trees from which are procured quinine, manna and India rubber, with the plants of the jalap, columbo, ipecac, and several indigenous 155remedies for syphilitic diseases and the bites of venomous serpents. Indeed these plains contain quite a variety of fruits and medicinal agents, and it is evident that collections of the latter, having much value, might be made by one acquainted with their properties and general aspects.

We proceeded through a portion of the lands of Cambuy, which is said to contain twelve square leagues of territory, which makes one hundred and twenty-two thousand eight hundred and eighty acres of land. The proportion of campo is supposed to be two-thirds to one-third of woodland. Our route lay through a portion of the woodland, which is of the terra rocha order, and about two miles across, to the river Jacaré. Here we found a bridge had been undertaken, but was not completed, nor did the work seem to be progressing.

To the west of this, some half a mile, there empties the Rio da Fazendinha, which conveys sufficient water for motive power, and has a fall of great extent, less than a mile from its mouth. The Rio da Montada and the Rio João Velho are smaller streams, which empty into the Jacaré farther westward.

There is a serra running up and down the Jacaré, and nearly parallel with the general course of the stream, having the crest about two miles distant and sloping gradually on each side; upon that slope next the river chill and fever is said to be generated, while near the crest and upon the opposite slope it is stated to be exempt from all disease.

The lands upon this serra are said to be of the best quality, and if they correspond throughout to the soil seen near the road, there is every reason to anticipate a good result from their cultivation. Until some proper and reliable measurement is made of this fazenda, no idea can be formed of the extent of this body of woodland, yet it is certainly the most valuable territory of the entire tract. If it be two leagues long, and one league wide, as some 156estimate it to be, it would form a very valuable acquisition for agricultural operations.

In returning from the Jacaré we entered the woods and proceeded to the bank of the Rebeira Fazendinha, where we breakfasted upon passorca and oranges in true traveller’s style. As the components were simple, and yet readily intermixed so as to give them a peculiar fitness for travelling, the process should be understood. Boiled beef is cut up into mincemeat, and then mixed with the farina made of corn so intimately in a mortar that it becomes a coarse powder, and is called passorca. This, then, is eaten with a spoon, and, when combined with an orange, as in our repast, it is really most excellent. In the absence of oranges or a bottle of claret it is well to have water to drink while it is eaten.

In the mean time Senor Francisco shot a macucu and her young bird, which were regarded as a great acquisition to assist in making out our breakfast next morning. This bird of the forest is something larger than a chicken, and is pronounced one of the best for the table; but, in the present case, with young birds of the size of a partridge, the hen is not in the best eating order. A small cobra was also killed.

Our ride, after leaving these woods, was principally through campo lands, in some of which, large, high grass was seen, but, for the most part, the growth of grass was small and scattering. In one place I observed small cane had been growing and was burned off, so that a new crop was sprouting up over the ground. This would doubtless be good grazing while it is tender.

We saw several considerable droves of cattle that were in fair condition, and the calves generally presented a good appearance.

The woodland which was passed in the midst of the campo lands was very well timbered, and looked as if it might have strength of soil adapted to the production of cotton. 157The sand, however, predominated largely in most of it that was seen; and Senor Joaquim Lorenço told us this was a fair type of these lands located in other parts of the territory. With this information, it was not thought advisable to make a tour of fifteen or twenty miles to see a duplicate of that which we examined; and it was concluded that we would repair to the situ on the place for the night. We passed a fine stream of water some mile of two from the houses, and found a small water-course at the place, adapted to work a monjolo, and perhaps it would serve for a small grist-mill.

Upon arriving at the situ, we found that our camarada and cook had every thing in progress for dinner, and we were soon served with a good, warm, substantial repast, which seemed to be appreciated by all, after the long and tiresome day’s ride, through campos, in the sun.

After dining, Colonel Joaquim Lorenço, at our request, sketched upon the ground the outline of this extensive collection of lands, and its relations to other adjoining places, giving a rough map of all the tracts of land convenient to the villa of Araraquara which it was supposed would be sold. Upon this, Mr. Street based a plan and sketched the outlines for a map, which he proposed to fill out in examining the surrounding country, and it is likely to be very useful.

Tuesday, October 31, 1865.

Getting an extra early breakfast, we set out this morning, and rode through a wide extent of rather indifferent land, diversified by hill and dale, as well as broad-extended plains. There were some portions of woodland, having a light soil, in which the sandy element prevailed to an extent that must render it of small value. But there were other portions of woodland, with a reddish-colored soil, which were evidently of a better quality. Yet none had the dark purple hue which characterizes the terra rocha soil, and which is regarded the best quality of land in this country.

158In passing through the fazenda of Monte Allegre, immense undulating plains of red soil were traversed; and different views were entertained as to the practicability of cultivating these lands successfully with the plough. There is in many places almost no vegetation, and the dry, hard, red earth looks as if it scarcely had the requisite elements for the germination and sustentation of grass or plants of any kind. This may depend in part upon the long-protracted drought which has existed in all this region of country; yet it is an inexplicable circumstance that no planter attempts to raise a crop upon any portion of these campos, and their cultivation would certainly be attended with less labor than clearing up matto lands. An experiment with the plough should, however, be made, with a view to test their productiveness.

When we reached the situ of Senor José Pinto, in charge of this fazenda, every thing was found ready for our comfort, as he had been notified of our coming by Senor Joaquim Lorenço. Being in advance, with some others who did not speak Portuguese, it devolved upon me to use my small stock in communicating with the proprietor, and I am encouraged to find that my words are understood, while I comprehend much that is said by others in this tongue.

Dinner was served in accordance with the most approved style of the country, the courses being of great variety, and the plates being frequently changed. We were agreeably surprised with the excellent taste displayed in connection with the table, and it was no less a matter of admiration to find beds arranged for all our large party with the greatest elegance. The pillow-cases were decorated with fine lace, and some of the spreads were beautifully embroidered. It is an odd fancy with many families to have towels of very fine material trimmed with very broad lace, and this was exhibited here in the greatest profusion upon the towels for our use.

There is a water-course on each side of the houses, which, 159uniting below, form a considerable stream. This large creek has a fall upon it, which affords a very favorable site for machinery, and indeed each of the smaller streams is also adapted to supply good water-power, while one of them already has a cotton-gin and grist-mill in operation, but both on a small scale.

In an enclosure near the mill-house there are two large trees, called Ximbo, which we were told had been planted there some years ago; and this would seem to indicate that the land will grow other trees better than those usually seen in campos. These trees present a luxuriant, thriving aspect, and afford a very fine shade for stock, while they would be highly decorative and useful in the immediate vicinity of the dwelling. It is remarked, however, that shade trees are seldom seen here about a house, and the climate being very warm during most of the year, the benefit of the trees ought to be apparent to all.

Orange trees are growing in the garden attached to this house, and though not bearing at present, they are well developed and will doubtless yield abundantly in proper season. The oranges in all this region are said to be very fine, and in some places the trees are found still with some fruit, which is of the very best quality. It has been a matter of consideration with me, whether the growing of the orange for the purpose of making wine and brandy might not become profitable. That a good article of each can be produced has already been satisfactorily proved, and there is a modification of the wine, known by the name of Coracão, which is very much prized. This name implies that it is adapted to cheer the heart, and it is considered a great delicacy. I have tasted a specimen of the ordinary wine of the orange, and thought it corresponded very much to the Sherry wine, which is certainly one of the best wines that is imported to the United States.

A dog-kennel with seventeen deer-hounds was seen here, 160and these animals have sharp ears like the wolf, with greater activity and fleetness than our hounds.

Wednesday, November 1, 1865.

At five o’clock this morning three of the party and myself joined the proprietor in making a tour of observation in the plantation and neighboring woodlands of Monte Allegre. The soil was not of a superior quality, yet it would doubtless produce moderately well. Cotton had been planted last year, and seemed to have made an average stalk, while that more recently planted was growing quite as well as the want of cultivation would warrant. The large proportion of unproductive land upon this fazenda, and the medium quality of most of the woodland, do not present encouraging features for a settlement upon it. Yet the fine location, and the water facilities, have evidently inspired General Wood with the idea that it would afford a favorable location for a city of newcomers. It is thought, moreover, that in the event of the extension of a railroad to this region, it will pass in the immediate vicinity of this place. That the location is healthy is shown by the residence of a large family and quite a gang of negroes for many years at this site, with very slight sickness of any kind. But there are wanting, in my view, the most essential requisites for building a city, or for establishing a large number of our people, in the deficient basis for agricultural pursuits and the absence of means of transportation, while there is a very scanty supply of timber at any point convenient for use. We need many things in commencing a settlement for which we must depend upon the resources of the surrounding country, or upon transportation from other parts; and in case these supplies are not likely to be found near at hand, the means of ready communication with some furnishing point becomes essential.

We left Monte Allegre about 9 o’clock A. M., and came out through a different portion of the territory from that 161previously seen, but found no improvement in the nature of the soil. At one point we were informed that a field of coffee (cafézar) was near the road, but being of recent planting, it would have afforded very little idea of the fitness of the soil to its growth, and hence we did not visit it. The woodlands passed through to-day belonged to that class known as terra branca, having a large proportion of sand mixed with the soil, and might perhaps be appropriate for the cultivation of cotton for a few years.

After leaving the lands of Monte Allegre, I proceeded with Senor Joaquim Lorenço, and Mr. Snell as interpreter, to examine some of the woodland belonging to the tract known as Lageado. The growth upon it is of good size, and much of it very suitable for building purposes. There is a stream of water suited for domestic purposes running lengthwise throughout the body of woods, and there is a large water-course at one extremity, which is available for machinery. This land is of a gray aspect, having a considerable proportion of sand; yet Senor Joaquim thinks it will grow every thing to advantage excepting coffee and sugar-cane. He tells me also that there is a portion of red land (terra vermilho) which would grow those articles in common with others.

Thursday, November 2, 1865.

Accompanied by Senor Joaquim Lorenço, we moved at daylight from his fazenda en route for Brotas and Jahu, and without any incident of special moment, we stopped about noon at the fazenda of Senor Jacinto Antonio Fagandes, (deceased.) We were supplied with water, and also with milk and water mixed, which spoiled both these articles, and brought up associations that ought not to arise in connection with the hospitality of our friends. We were furnished with coffee also after waiting until our patience was exhausted, but it was thankfully received and enjoyed.

Here we saw the skin of an ant-eater, (Tamandoa Bandoera,) 162which is of a gray color, with the hair upon the back very harsh and long, and the tail of immense size, spreading out like a fan at the sides. This animal has powerful arms and front paws, with which it tears up the earth in search of the nests of the ant; and it is said to be very ferocious when encountered by other animals. An instance has been communicated, in which an ant-eater and a tiger became engaged, with the result of killing the former, yet the claws had been so imbedded in the flesh of the tiger that it remained clinging to it, until the sickening and emaciation of the tiger made it an easy prey to the hunter, when the dried body of the ant-eater was found still attached by its claws to the body of the tiger.

This is given as reported to me by a person who claimed to have a personal knowledge of the fact, and illustrates the tenacious grasp of this animal.

After leaving the dwelling, and its incumbent of milk and water memory, we passed through a portion of the land of this fazenda, which contains about eighteen thousand acres, and is now for sale. There is a branch or small creek with very clear water, which was crossed after entering one of the fields. The soil here was evidently well suited to the growth of corn, as there were large heaps lying in the husk on each side of the road, preparatory to being hauled and put into the crib or paijol. There were also a number of young coffee trees growing in this field, but we had no information as to their age, and it is sufficient to remark that they looked vigorous and healthy, with a good prospect for the future.

The party to whose estate this place belongs owned three large fazendas; and there is one located near Lemeira, which is said to be a valuable coffee plantation, giving a large annual yield.

The place passed this morning is called Carrentes, and is about two miles from the situ of Major Gaveão.

After leaving these lands, we passed through a most 163dreary sand-bed of nearly two leagues in extent, and crossing the Jacaré river at a water-fall, (Cachoeira,) we stopped for the night at the residence of Senor José Rodrigues Simães.

This is a very superior site for machinery, and yet the main stream is not made available, while a small stream entering into it is turned into a race through a large hollow log, and moves quite a large sugar-mill and a monjolo.

A trough was measured here with dimensions of forty by forty-five inches. We were supplied with oranges and limes in great abundance and of the finest quality. In the course of the evening, I had stepped into the back part of the house to ask a servant to bring me a basin of water; and shortly afterwards the proprietor of the house, in company with my old friend, Senor Joaquim, came to me with a candle in his hand and said something about sickness, which I supposed referred to myself. I told him in Portuguese, of course, as neither of them understood any thing else, that nothing ailed me, and that the water asked for was simply to wash my hands and face.

They looked at each other, and wearing quite an embarrassed aspect, repeated the remark as to the sickness, which, with my imperfect knowledge of the language, was not properly understood, but was construed to mean, that I had better go to a room and lie down. Again I remonstrated, when the old Colonel gave me to understand that it was not on my account, but for the relief of another, that they desired me to go to the room. This placed the matter upon quite a different basis, and I proceeded to examine a man who had been seriously wounded on the head by the blow of a cudgel, while engaged in an affray. He was then laboring under oppression of the brain to some extent, and learning that his bowels were torpid, I administered a dose of calomel, with directions to follow it with oil, and to keep cloths wet with cold water constantly to his head, which should be placed near a window.

164I went out of the room, hoping but little for any benefit from the treatment, and yet he was not in a state to bear blood-letting. Our interpreter being absent from the house caused the awkward interview as reported.

Friday, November 3, 1865.

We were all roused before daylight, to make ready for the road, and upon examining my patient I was gratified to find that his medicine had been productive of good results, with encouragement to hope for recovery.

Getting a cup of coffee before starting, we took breakfast at the house of Senor José Venancio Carneiro, and reached Brotas at twelve o’clock. We found the population alive to the importance of the visit, and an address of welcome was made to General W. W. W. Wood by Dom Francisco Ernesto Malheiros, to which the General responded. Mr. Bennaton repeated the remarks of the former at the close of his address, making &c., &c., &c., cover a large gap in memory. But he interpreted the words of the General as they were delivered, giving each paragraph separately, as a pause was made for that purpose. This part of the performance was executed to the entire satisfaction of all concerned.

I delivered a letter to the above-named gentleman, and also one to Senor Francisco de Campos of the place, each of whom tendered any assistance that might be useful to me or my friends.

It was gratifying to find here among those who rode out to meet us my friend Rev. A. L. Blackford; and upon leaving, he rode out several miles with me, as an act of personal kindness and courtesy, which was duly appreciated.

We dined in the villa of Brotas, at a house owned by the same gentleman at whose residence we breakfasted, but he was not present on either occasion, being at some distance on business in the country. Being notified by Senor Joaquim, the family arranged every thing.

When our party were in readiness to start out of town in 165the afternoon, there was quite a large concourse of gentlemen on horseback presented themselves to accompany us on our way; and the street was thronged on the side-walks and in the windows with women and others, who seemed to look upon our movement as something remarkable for this quiet place.

General Wood had received an invitation before reaching the town, through a special messenger, to proceed to the house of Senor Antonio Joaquim Camargo and spend the night. It was also stated that several letters had been received by this gentleman from persons in São Paulo, suggesting that he should entertain this party; and hence the General set aside a previous arrangement of the old Colonel, that we would go to the house of his son-in-law, and went with Senor Camargo, to enjoy his hospitality.

Upon the special invitation of my old friend, I accompanied him to the house of his son-in-law, Senor Domingos José Carneiro, and found that all requisite preparations had been made for entertaining the entire company. Dinner had been in progress, and all the bedding was in readiness to make all comfortable for the night.

This residence is upon the elevated plateau of the serra, and we had a very steep ascent to make in reaching the crest, but once gained, the view of the country for miles up and down the valley, or rather the lower strata of land, was really magnificent. The soil here is excellent, and all the staples are growing well. Coffee seems to flourish particularly well, though not in terra rocha.

Saturday, November 4, 1865.

My old friend, the Colonel, rose at half-past three o’clock this morning, and directed our horses to be fed and coffee to be prepared for us, preliminary to early starting.

I was forcibly reminded last night of the difference between the lady of the house and our ladies, by her remaining in the room while we were preparing to retire to bed. 166Though tired and sleepy, I waited some time after taking off my coat and vest, before she took the hint to leave, and after I got in bed, she came back to talk to her father, who then had off his wearing apparel, and was sitting on the side of the bed. This is mentioned simply to illustrate the want of sensitiveness on the part of women in the ordinary respectable class of society in this country.

Senor Joaquim Lorenço and I left about half-past four o’clock, with a negro to put us on the right road after getting out of the plantation. Upon reaching the fazenda of Senor Camargo, we learned that the General and his party had left some half hour previous. The road travelled by them was marked by the tracks of their animals, and, besides, a green bough of a tree had been placed in the roads that were not to be taken, and we consequently followed them without difficulty. Most persons place a bough on the road to be taken; but, knowing that Mr. Bennaton pursued the other course, I understood this thing, which was likely to puzzle the old Colonel, when he perceived the bush on one road and the tracks leading another route.

Coming up with the pack-train, we found that a camarada was ascending a tree upon which grew a large crop of very fine jaboticabas, and availed ourselves of as many as we could eat. We took, moreover, quite a supply of this delicious fruit in a handkerchief, thinking it would be very acceptable to our friends ahead; but it so turned out that I carried the rather weighty package eight miles before overtaking the party. They had halted at about eleven o’clock A. M., for breakfast, at the fazenda of Senor Joaquim Oliveiro Mattozenia; but, as there was no notice of their coming, it was likely to be some time before any thing to eat could be in readiness. It was, therefore, most acceptable to all, that the Colonel had brought an assortment of substantials, with the expectation of eating on the roadside; and they promptly availed themselves of the chickens, pork, rice, farina, &c., which was spread out before them.

167Notwithstanding the flourish-of-trumpets with which Senor Antonio Joaquim Camargo had announced his readiness to accommodate General Wood and party, they found quite a deficiency of the comforts which had been met elsewhere; and, going to bed on a very light repast, they were now as hungry as half-starved wolves. In a short time after this cold lunch was concluded, it was announced that a hot breakfast was ready in the dining-room, and we found the table laden with good things, of which none could partake very largely after the previous supply; yet all went through the form of eating, so as not to give offence to the lady of the house, who, in the absence of her husband, had manifested so much cheerfulness in preparing this breakfast. Senor Camargo had accompanied the party thus far, but declined to partake of the lunch, and must have felt chagrined to note the greater providence exhibited in this matter than had been observed by him in starting them out without breakfast.

There had been a considerable hubbub among our party the previous day, in reference to departing from the prearranged plan of Senor Joaquim Lorenço, that all should go to the house of his son-in-law, Senor Domingos; and in going to the fazenda of Senor Antonio Joaquim Camargo the highest expectations were indulged as to the immense preparations that had been made for a grand reception and sumptuous entertainment. When it turned out so differently from what was anticipated, all vowed that, henceforth, the party would stick to the old Colonel, and abide by whatever he might plan for them in future movements.

Our course to-day lay through fair lands for the greater portion of the route, and the place at which we stopped yields cane of the finest quality, having seen four huge oxcart loads moving from the fields to the sugar-house. This establishment has a large overshot water-wheel, and three iron cylinders for the expressing of the juice of the cane. The appliances for treating the sugar were few in number, 168and not apparently well adapted to the object; yet the specimen of sugar at breakfast was very fine, and was of domestic manufacture.

As stated above, the proprietor, Senor Joaquim Oliveiro Mattozenia, was not at home; but we met him on the way, after leaving his house, and he returned with us to the Freguezia de Jahu. He took us there to a house in which his business is done, and sent out for ale to supply the whole thirsty multitude, while coffee was prepared for those of us who preferred to take it. He then went with us to the fazenda of Dom José Correa Leite de Moraes, about two miles from the village, where we were expected by prior arrangement.

Our host is a practising physician and has his drugs in the reception room, upon shelves occupying each side of an angle, and making evidently a good assortment of medicines, adapted to almost every use in the treatment of diseases. Although the labels were mostly in Portuguese, I readily understood them from the similarity to the technicals in Latin. Since finding the embarrassment of prescribing for those who do not understand a Latin formula, it has impressed me forcibly that this technical language that is recognized by most nations ought to be adopted by all, so as to simplify the filling of prescriptions by physicians of different countries wherever their services may be in requisition over the whole world.

The soil in this immediate vicinity is a very dark purple or brown color, and is generally called here black land, (terra preta or terra masape.) It is very rich in those elements requisite for production, and yields all kinds of crops with but little labor. The consistence is such that, when wet, it adheres with great tenacity to the shoes, and hence the term “masape.” It corresponds in many respects to the rich bottom lands lying upon the Mississippi river, and is not inferior to the best soil of that region for sugar-cane, cotton, or corn. As yet the culture of coffee has not been 169introduced for a length of time to test its qualities for that crop, but it is confidently expected to yield well.

In some places there are numerous small fragments of clear rock crystal mixed up with this dark soil, which shine brightly by the contrast, and cause one to think there may be diamonds in the same region. I believe, however, that jewels and minerals of much value are confined to sterile lands.

This being the thirteenth anniversary of my marriage-day, it is recalled with many reflections as to the present wide separation from her who is united with me in the holy bonds of matrimony. The day and hour and attendant circumstances of our union have all been vividly brought to mind; and the many scenes of enjoyment, with some of sadness, which have marked our course in life, have caused emotions within my breast which those around knew nothing of, and which were not in unison with the stir and excitement of the past day.

We commenced this series of thirteen years in the full enjoyment of mutual affection, yet we did not and could not know each other’s heart and devotion as we have learned them by many repeated acts of self-sacrifice on the part of each for the other. No one, without the experience of that love which exists alone between husband and wife, can realize how entirely self may be absorbed in the devotion of the soul to the welfare and enjoyment of one another. If there was a joy or a sweet allowed me in this life which could not be shared by my wife, it would detract from the gratification I would have from it; and I know too well that every happiness which can be extended to me by my true-hearted and loving wife affords an increase of happiness to her. We have shared many trials together, and have become the parents of seven children; one of whom left us for a place among the angels of heaven, at the early age of eight months, while four interesting daughters and two sons of promising parts remain to cheer us still.

170How pleasant and precious is the thought of again returning to enjoy the associations of my beloved wife and my darling children. There is no sentiment of the human heart that is more elevating and refining in its tendency than the love which a husband feels for his wife, and the affection he has welling up in his breast for his children.

“In its silence and beauty,

Its passion and power;

Love breathed o’er the land

Like the soul of a flower.”

In the heart of him who has a sincere regard for his family, love is truly as delicate and sensitive as the aroma of the sweetest flower. It is the most tender and devoted consecration of the soul to the interests and enjoyments of those cherished objects. It is the confiding sincerity and purity of faith which the affectionate husband and father realizes for those that are bound to him by the most holy and gentle ties of mutual love. It is not a hope, but a full and complete enjoyment of reciprocal attachment. The faith and trust are without a shadow of misgiving as to the return they will meet, and the soul rests in blissful consciousness of the love of wife and children.

The light beaming forth in the full glare of a noon-day sun may fail to convince me of the warmth of that brilliant orb; but the glow of delight which brightens the eye and lights up the features of my wife and my children when we meet, cannot, must not, and will not, leave the shadow of a doubt as to their affection for me. We live in the sweet realization of each other’s love, and it is accompanied by the most unselfish desire to promote the comfort and enjoyment of each other.

If I seek the good things of this life, it is that my family may share them with me. If I seek exemption from the cares and vexations of the world, it is to shield them from annoyance. If I seek preferment among my fellowmen, it is with the anxious thought that they may thus be brought into 171more desirable and honorable associations. If I seek social enjoyment, the most exquisite gratification is found in the interchange of cordial sentiments with my own loved ones at home. All in all, it is with the anticipation of such happiness in future days that I now seek a place of refuge from the troubles of my native land.

May God in his goodness and infinite mercy protect and sustain my wife and my children, while I am endeavoring to secure a home for them here, is the constant prayer of my heart.

I am now separated from all that is held dear in the associations of life; and no step has ever been taken heretofore which caused me so much anxiety and apprehension for the welfare of my family as leaving them in the midst of troubles and irregularities in society, such as the world has never witnessed before. But having taken all the preliminary steps which human forecast could suggest for the comfort of those near and dear to me, and with the attention of a kind friend, who would look after them and their interests with the care of a brother, I trust in the providence of a merciful God, that they may be preserved from all harm, and that we may be soon returned to each other in health, peace, and happiness.

Sunday, November 5, 1865.

This being the Sabbath, I announced my intention to make it a day of rest, and the old Colonel said he would remain with me, while the others purposed to take a ride of fourteen miles to the Tieté river. A huge bag of provisions was prepared for the expedition by our host, and a guide was expected to meet them at the town of Jahu. But notwithstanding all these preliminary arrangements, the trip was abandoned, and all remained quietly at the house of Dom José Correa Leite de Moraes for the day. He is a cousin of the Colonel.

Several gentlemen came to visit us from the surrounding 172country, and dined with us. Among them was a Catholic priest, Senor Francisco Ferreira Garcia, the vicar of this district, and Senor Lorenço de Arruda Prado, another cousin of Colonel Joaquim.

The former had the misfortune to be thrown from his mule after bidding some of our party good-by upon the road, but was not injured. The latter appeared to be a very clever gentleman, and is said to be a successful planter. In being introduced to him by my old friend, the Colonel, I was informed of his relationship, and on his leaving, I extended the customary assistance in mounting his mule, which is regarded here as a simple act of courtesy to a gentleman who visits you. This act of attention is a part of that general politeness which is observed among the best class of Brazilians, and struck us, as it must every one not familiar with the usages of the people, in the light of a menial service that was not compatible with the relation of one gentleman to another, yet custom makes it not only proper and becoming, but almost obligatory. The party assisting usually looses the horse, holds the bridle, and steadies the stirrups while the other mounts, and the guest is expected to avail himself of this assistance without regard to the age or rank of the person tendering it, though in some instances he may demur when he thinks circumstances should preclude it.

Our host is lively and intelligent, speaking French with fluency, and having a little knowledge of the English. Shortly after our arrival at his house, I made some remark to him in Portuguese, which at first was not understood, and he indicated his wish that it should be repeated, by the usual word, “Como?” (How?) I used the same expression again and was fully comprehended, and answered accordingly. Immediately after this, General Wood’s interpreter, Mr. Snell, who is an Englishman that has been a number of years in Brazil, spoke to the Dom in Portuguese, and he, taking this to be another American with a slim stock of 173the language, did not comprehend what was said, and replied to him, “Não entendo,” (I don’t understand.) This gave us a good laugh upon Mr. Snell. In my use of the language it was simply “Como?” but with him, who was here as interpreter, the party addressed was compelled to say “Não entendo,” taking him to be a novice in Portuguese. The fact is, that while Mr. Snell understands the language well, and speaks it fluently, he has a habit of cutting off the last syllable of his words, that makes it somewhat difficult at times to gather the full meaning of his remarks, and hence this mistake.

The lady of the house has evidently associated more with gentlemen than most of those occupying a like position, and hence appears more at ease in company, joining in general conversation with those who speak the language. She departs greatly from the habit of our ladies by suckling her child in the presence of gentlemen. Though she was in the dining-room during our meals, the crowded table was perhaps a sufficient reason for not being seated with us, and she was looking after the proper supply of articles by the servants, though the Dom seemed to assume the chief responsibility in this respect.

The culinary arrangements of this establishment, like most others in Brazil, are under the same roof with the residence of the family, and the fire is built upon the earthen floor in the open room, without any other outlet for the smoke than is afforded by the spaces between the tiles which cover the house. As it was rather cool during the evenings, we took a seat in a circle around this fire, and thus had a very sociable family circle, which gives me the key to an explanation of that term, which has never before been fully understood.

Our host follows the course of his kinsman, Colonel Joaquim Lorenço, in regard to the abundance of supplies upon his table at all three meals, and supper is quite equal to breakfast in the variety of the articles. I tell them that 174they give us three dinners every day, and if we were to remain stationary, all would be foundered in a short time, or take the gout, though I do not hear of this affection in the country.

We had for supper, this evening, a portion of the large fish called the Jahu, from which the river and town derived their names. It is a huge fish similar to our catfish, though the head is not so broad in proportion to its size, and the meat tastes more like that of scale fish. All relished it very much; and, though we had fared so well at breakfast and dinner, the Jahu tempted us to eat heartily.

We had an opportunity of examining, to-day, one of the large lizards of this country, called “lagarto,” and there is nothing to which it can be better compared than a young alligator of two and a half feet in length. The resemblance in its conformation to one of our small, gray lizards is almost perfect, and the flesh is said to be very fine, but its appearance is too suggestive of the class of reptiles for my taste. This specimen was caught by a servant, and brought into the house, for our inspection, while still alive. Many of them have been seen in the woods during our tour, and they are said to be inimical to the poisonous cobra, engaging and killing the snake whenever it is encountered. The large number of these lagartos, and the few cobras, that are found in our exploration of the forest, would favor the idea that the former have established the mastery. In this view, the lagarto should be preserved from injury, and, most assuredly, something more inviting can be found for food.

The lagarto has a forked tongue like a serpent, and thrusts it out in the same manner when disturbed. It is stated, also, that during the winter months, though there be no frost, they live in a state of torpidity after the mode of reptiles.

Monday, November 6, 1865.

In accordance with previous arrangements, we were all supplied with fresh animals by the fazendeiros of the neighborhood, 175and set out for Sapé and the river Tieté. Reaching the fazenda of Senor Paulo Lima about eight o’clock, after a ride of twelve miles, we found that he expected us to stop and take breakfast. Though his house and the surroundings did not present a very promising aspect, yet we found, in due course of time, a most excellent meal was served to us, and all were highly pleased with the plain courtesy of our host.

The lands lying between the Freguezia de Jahu and this point are located upon either side of the river Jahu, and rather irregular in general conformation. They are, for the most part, of a deep red color and of firm consistence, with more or less of the fudra de ferro, constituting the best quality of terra rocha. The Figeré Branca and the Pon d’Alho are conspicuous in most parts of this territory, and indicate the fertility of the soil.

Throughout this region, which includes a number of old settlements, and others of more recent date, much of the matto virgem (original forest) has been cleared off, and open fields of large extent are either in cultivation or in pasture for the use of horses and cattle.

The Rio Jahu pursues a very tortuous course, with frequent falls or rapids, and offers advantageous situations for machinery at various points. It runs into the river Tieté about sixteen miles from the town of the same name, Jahu; and the lands on each side of it, throughout this extent, are of the best quality; yet the steep hills and rather mountainous elevations of the precincts unfit some of the lands for proper cultivation. These high and irregular portions of ground would be very appropriate for coffee, as the hillsides and elevated lands are usually selected for this crop; while the low flat lands in this section are liable to some frost in the cold season.

I am informed that the quality of the soil is equally good to the distance of three leagues, or twelve miles, on the north side of the Rio Jahu, and to the distance of two 176leagues, or eight miles, on the south side. In this extensive area there are a few small patches of less valuable land, but in the main, it will be found that the soil is of the deep red color, or of the dark brown order, and lying in many parts very advantageously for cultivation.

After breakfasting we set out again, and passing the obscure capella of Sapé, we travelled sixteen miles to the fazenda of Senor Louiz Pereira Barbose, where we were expected by previous notice from our friend the old Colonel. Though the house was small, and the resources for accommodating so large a number rather limited, yet he manifested a disposition to do all in his power for the comfort of the party.

We rode over a comparatively level region in coming from the house of Senor Lima to this place, and though not giving evidence of so much fertility as that near the Rio Jahu, it is generally of good quality, and is well supplied with water for ordinary domestic purposes. There was no portion of useless land seen upon this route, and no campos have been encountered since leaving the town of Brotas. The timber throughout this plateau is of good size, and much of it very favorable for splitting to make fences, as the quarenta, which grows especially abundant near the fazenda at which we are stopped. This tree is very durable when made into rails, and has its name from the impression that it lasts during forty years. In entering the premises, I observed the neatest and most substantial fencing yet seen in Brazil, and was informed that the rails are of this material. One end of the rails is embedded in the earth, and they are arranged side by side in a perpendicular form, with a cross-bar of the palmetto running horizontally about two feet from the top, which is secured by being lashed continuously with the sipo vine. This sipo is a long and slender vine of surprising strength and flexibility, which is used for confining the rafters of houses, tying timbers together where pegs or nails would be used with us, baling 177cotton, and, indeed, for any purpose to which ropes might be applied. It is called in common parlance the Brazilian nail, and it is remarkable to what an extent it is made a substitute for nails.

It is particularly well suited for constructing these stake-fences, and no better enclosure can be devised for the protection of a crop against large or small intruders.

General Wood, Doctor Warne, and Mr. Snell parted from the rest of us at the house of Senor Lima, and went down to the mouth of the Jahu, and descended the river Tieté in canoes for two miles. They gave a favorable account of the general outline of the banks on each side, but found the channel of the river so shallow in several places that the canoes came in contact with the bottom, and it was requisite for the boatmen to draw them over by getting out into the water. There was one point at which there were rapids or falls, and they got out upon the shore, while those in charge of the canoes carried them over the fall, receiving them again below into the canoes.

This being a drought of many months continuance, the river is said to be lower than it has been before for twelve years, and the ordinary level of the water is stated to be six feet above its present state. It is thought by persons acquainted with the river, that there is sufficient water during the rainy months, to afford a passage for flat-bottomed propellers to Perecicaba, from which point there is a wagon-road to Campinas, and from thence the railroad will perhaps be available in a few years.

From the account received, and from my personal inspection of the river, I think there is but little prospect of navigating it with safety, and unless there be a practicable route for a railway to this region of country, its products must depend on transportation by pack-mules.

The elevated serra near Brotas is perhaps the most serious obstacle to a railroad, and it remains for engineers to determine whether this can be overcome.

178If a line of railroad is extended to Araraquara, and can communicate with the Rio Jaceré below Cambury, then this section of country lying between the Tieté and Jaceré might avail itself of the Jaceré for navigation up to that point, and thus get an outlet for its products.

The Jaceré is represented to have a deep and open channel from its mouth up to Cambury; and all the rich region lying between it and the Tieté and extending along the Jahu would be better accommodated by effecting this result than to attempt to navigate the Tieté upwards.

Tuesday, November 7, 1865.

Having but a limited number of beds, our host provided some dried raw-hides which were spread upon the dirt floor, and about one-half of our party slept upon them, with their overcoats, &c., assisting to fill out the scanty supply of bedding. There was no particular inconvenience experienced except from the fleas, which found ready access to our friends upon the hides and interrupted somewhat the quietness of their repose. Mr. Snell and myself were perched upon a long high table, and being thus above the jumping height of a flea we fared very well. I have carried a blanket and pillow throughout my trip, and found them with my overcoat very convenient on this occasion. A bed had been assigned to me, but feeling that our good friend Senor Joaquim Lorenço should of all others be provided for, I persuaded him to occupy the bed, and I slept comfortably upon the table during the whole night.

With the good spirit exhibited by our host we all tried to be satisfied, and though it was quite different from the comforts received at other places, he evidently did the best which his resources would allow.

The meals were abundant and well prepared, with another large Jahu fish to grace the table. As I had brought along some tomato catsup, it was drawn forth on this occasion to 179give a zest to the fine fish, and the entire bottle was consumed.

In connection with this, I have transported likewise from the outset, four cans of tomatoes, two cans of mutton, and one can of partridge, thinking that we would find ourselves in some situation where the necessaries of life could not be obtained; yet we have had no occasion to use them, and will not perhaps have need for them anywhere.

After an early breakfast, I set out with Dr. Warne, Dr. Wissen, Messrs. Brown and Kernan, accompanied by Senor José Rebeiro Camargo, as our escort and guide, to visit a portion of the lands lying between us and the Rio Jaceré. This river was stated to be about sixteen miles distant, and thinking it would be impracticable to make the trip to the river, and return, I proposed to make a circuit, so as to return by a different route from that upon which we went out. Passing some grounds under cultivation shortly after starting, the corn and beans with sweet potatoes gave fine promise of the coming crop, and the lands in this vicinity are evidently of good quality; but after passing some miles farther, there was an inferior grade of soil with occasional indications of barrenness.

We made a halt at the house of Senor Ignacio Borgia Pedrosa, where wine and coffee were served. Some large oxen in the front of the house showed that the grass had nutritious properties, while some mares and colts running at large presented a good appearance. Subsequent to this our escort took us to the residence of Senor Candido Pereira Barbosa, but as he was absent, and we did not wish to wait for dinner, we accepted the tender of coffee, and made a lunch of sardines and cheese which had been brought to meet our necessities. Upon riding into the fields we saw some young coffee trees growing from the seed. They were two years old and looked flourishing; but with great diversity in size, resulting probably from a deficient stand when first planted, and requiring to be replanted. 180No estimate could be made as to the result in maturing of the coffee trees.

The lands here were of a reddish aspect, with a considerable portion of sand, and presented a favorable appearance under cultivation; but the soil is not equal to that of the lands adjacent to the Rio Jahu; nor were any of the lands seen upon our route of the first order. For the most part the surface was gently undulating, and this general tableau was supplied with a variety of excellent timber, among which the quarenta was observed to grow of full size, and abundantly.

The supply of water was confined to small branches or runs, that might be made available for a monjolo, or perhaps for a small grist-mill, but not adapted to machinery on a large scale. The largest stream traversing this section of country was stated to lie somewhat beyond the line of our route, and this may present more favorable conditions for water-power. So far as my personal observation goes, the Rio Jahu is the only reliance for the location of machinery anywhere convenient to this territory.

We had quite an adventure in the attempt of Senor Camargo to ascend a tree to gather some jaboticabas for us, and it had well nigh proved a serious matter. The body of the tree having no limbs for some distance up, he climbed as far as his strength would permit, and being unable to reach the limbs, or even to sustain himself in his grasp upon the smooth surface of the tree, he let loose and slided down most precipitately. He then secured a pole to the side of the tree with sipo, and going to the top of it had another handed up to him, which was secured above in like manner, and thus he succeeded in getting us a delicious bait of the fruit.

We returned by way of Sapé, which, though it has a few small houses in close proximity, should not be recognized as entitled to a name. In going up we passed this place without giving it a special notice; and some of the party 181were not apprised that any place claiming a name had been passed. It is simply a collection of some half dozen dirty hovels, and yet has a shop, at which a thirsty gentleman in our party found he could get a drink of cachaça, and stopped us to look at him go through with the performance. The patron saint of this humble refectory was a corpulent Frenchman, who had recently bought a considerable tract of land in the neighborhood, and was holding it upon speculation. He doubtless thought a good time was coming, when he was informed of our object in visiting this section, and declined to sell even at an advance of two millreas an alqueric, or sixteen and two-thirds cents per acre.

At the most remote point of our trip to-day land was valued at forty cents per acre; while here, at Sapé, it is estimated at eighty cents per acre; and between this point and Senor Lima’s one hundred dollars per acre is the price affixed. In the vicinity of Jahu two hundred dollars an acre was the valuation put upon a tract of land, which was equal to any in the country, and thus the standard prices of this section may be considered as fairly stated above, upon the authority of landowners.

We returned to our rendezvous a while before night, and found the rest of the company had not stirred beyond the premises during the day; and some of them were perched upon some timber for machinery that lay in the yard, while others met us, while relaxing their limbs in a short walk from the house toward the outer gate of the enclosure.

Wednesday, November 8, 1865.

We left the fazenda of Senor Louiz Pereira Barbose at 6 o’clock this morning, after partaking of an early breakfast, and returned to the house of our old friend Senor Lima. Here he had collected his breeding stock for our observation; and though the mares were generally of small size, there were a few very good young horses, and the colts for the most part looked well. It is a little remarkable to 182observe how entirely quiet the stallions are, when allowed to run at large in this way with a promiscuous drove of animals. There was a jackass also running with the stock, yet I saw no young mules; and the dull and lifeless aspect of this animal gave no promise of an increase of his stock. There were thirty mares, and if even this number were employed in rearing mules, it would doubtless prove profitable; but this scrubby specimen of horses, which are propagated, are not likely to give much return for the trouble of looking after them. These animals subsist entirely upon grass, and very rarely get salt, as it is too costly at these interior places to be afforded for stock, except in very small quantities.

Dining with Senor Lima we proceeded afterward upon the same route by which we had gone up, and reached the residence of Senor Dom Correa Leite de Moraes at four o’clock in the afternoon. He and his wife received us again most hospitably, and have extended all the kindness possible to our whole party.

Our saddle-mules have remained here in his pasture, and been fed with corn daily from his crib, while our clothing has been washed and ironed in our absence. The pack-mules have been sent off this afternoon so as to keep ahead to-morrow.

Thursday, November 9, 1865.

Our cheerful and hospitable friend, Dom José Correa Leite de Moraes, and his kind lady, received our cordial acknowledgments at leaving them this morning. Our own mules being fresh, moved off with alacrity, and upon reaching the Freguezia de Jahu, we were met by Senor José Rebeiro Camargo, and invited to the house of his son-in-law, where wine and coffee were served, and his wife and daughter came out to bid us adieu. It was thought that this demonstration was in part for the purpose of showing his unmarried daughter to one of the young men, to whom the father 183had taken a fancy for a son-in-law. But I doubt if the impression was well calculated to promote his wishes for incorporating an American graft into his family. This young man was furnished with a list of the entire family, and received a very cordial embrace from the father at parting.

We breakfasted at the fazenda of Senor Joaquim Oliveiro Mattozinto, and found him this time awaiting our arrival, with every thing in readiness for giving us a substantial entertainment. He had very kindly furnished mules for some of our party during the recent trip, and had accompanied us in person until sickness made it necessary for him to return.

The land from Jahu to this fazenda is of superior quality, being of the dark brown order, and as this is eight miles from the Rio Jahu, it may be inferred that this fine soil extends to a like distance from the river elsewhere on this side, which corresponds to the statement made in regard to the breadth of good land extending along this stream.

The general health of this region of country is very good, yet there are cases of chill and fever reported upon the Tieté and Jaceré, and throughout the region lying adjacent to those water-courses. No instance was brought to my knowledge of malarial disease remote from these streams; and, from the general aspects of the country, I would not think it likely to prevail to any considerable extent away from their margins.

I saw but two instances of goitre or bronchocele in this entire region of country, and the information received from Dom Correa is conclusively that they were not generated here, but imported from other parts. There is no serra here, and so far as my observation goes, goitre is confined to those living in the vicinity of the serras.

This section and the country about Araraquara are the only parts visited thus far in which this ugly deformity did not prevail amongst the women.

It is not however confined to the women exclusively, as 184several instances have been seen among males, and the condition of climate, water, atmosphere, or diet, which promotes the development of this condition, cannot be favorable to the constitutional health of those exposed to its influence. No leprosy found here.

We halted at a small shop upon our route to-day, where oranges were sold at the rate of four for a cent; and all of us having a relish for this fruit, concluded we never could satisfy our taste more cheaply, so we turned to and ate the whole stock in trade. One gentleman was reported to have eaten fourteen oranges, but I thought that a full complement was received with half of that number, and it puzzled me to know how any one eat more than I did in the same length of time.

A large concourse of persons on horseback were met to-day, males and females, dressed out in their best clothes. Some of them were provided with musical instruments, and there was a train of pack-mules, upon one of which there were two immense boxes, and sundry smaller trunks upon the others. We understood that it was a movement to celebrate the feast of the Holy Ghost at the Freguezia de Jahu, which is done yearly by the Catholics here.

Returning by a different route from that of our trip in going up, we encountered extensive campos, and soil generally of inferior quality, until we reached the Serra de Brotas, upon which the land, as stated previously, is very good, and lies favorably.

We reached the residence of Senor Domingos José Carneiro (son-in-law of the old Colonel) this afternoon at 5 o’clock, when we were kindly received by him and his wife, and found every thing arranged for the comfort of the entire party.

A letter was received this afternoon from our faithful friend, Senor Joaquim Lorenço, responding in the most feeling terms to a communication made to him by our entire party in leaving his house. As the two letters may 185be now inserted together, and may give those who read these pages an idea of the relations subsisting with this noble-souled Brazilian, I will give a translation of his in connection with that sent by us.

Araraquara, November 2, 1865.

The following-named persons, recently from the United States of America, and their companions, have received such favors at your house and such assistance from you in the examination of the lands of Araraquara, that we desire to leave with you an expression of our great obligations and our sincere thanks for your kindness.

Having visited this section in search of a future home for our families, we have found you a friend that makes all of us desire to be your neighbor, and to become residents of your section of this country.

We go to look at other lands, and to ascertain the resources of other places, feeling that no people can extend to us a more cordial and generous hospitality than we have received here from you.

With the most heartfelt gratification for your reception and treatment during our sojourn with your family, please to accept our best wishes for the happiness of yourself and those composing your household.

W. W. W. Wood,

J. McF. Gaston,

[Names of all others composing the party.]

To Illm. Senor Lenenti Coronal Joaquim Lorenço Correa.

Jahu, November 8, 1865.

General W. W. W. Wood, Dom Gaston,

and other gentlemen, companions of the voyage:

With undivided pleasure I received your letter of the second of the current month, in which with great magnanimity you manifest your sentiments of gratitude for the 186little or no service which I rendered you during your brief stay in the woods of Araraquara.

In returning to your firesides, which in a short time you intend to abandon, choosing for your new home and that of your children the land of the Holy Cross, where it was my fortune to be born, say to your countrymen that in this land there are generous hearts that sympathize much with the southern inhabitants of the United States of North America.

Coming to dwell in these lands, I hope you may be happy, promoting the happiness of yourselves, and the future happiness of your children. And you may be sure of this, that here you will always find one friend, faithful and sincere.

Joaquim Lorenço Correa.

My personal relations to this gentleman inspired a sort of parental regard for him, which makes me cherish this kind memento more perhaps than others of the company, and I have therefore preserved the original, as a souvenir of his friendship and generosity. We all desired to have a likeness of our good friend, by which we might be constantly reminded of that genial expression which springs from his pure heart; but the photographists in this section are very poorly provided with materials, and could not take the impression.

The high appreciation which all of us have for the character of Senor Joaquim Lorenço is only in keeping with the estimate in which he is held by all with whom we have conversed, in the vicinity of Araraquara; and he is, with one accord, regarded as the leading spirit of all that country. His title of Lieutenant-Colonel is by virtue of his position as commandant of the national guard of the district, and from his admirable management for our tour, I should expect him to conduct a campaign very successfully. All was done quietly by him, and in his discipline upon his premises 187no loud word or confusion ever occurred, but every thing progressed with great regularity.

Friday, November 10, 1865.

Leaving the house of our kind host, Senor Domingos José Carneiro, we descended the Serra de Brotas by a most precipitous route, differing from that of our ascent, which was very steep, in being likewise very rugged and narrow. It was not desirable to remain upon our mules in making this passage down a steep, irregular, and rocky road, so that all but one of the party dismounted, and lead our animals. The father of our host, Senor José Venancio Carneiro, having spent the night with us, they both accompanied us this morning, and upon arriving at the villa of Brotas we found that the elder gentleman had arranged for us to take refreshments at his house, where we had dined in passing through. The table was provided with very fine canned peaches and other fruits, while wine and coffee were also served, thus tempting us to eat, though we had so recently taken a hearty breakfast where we spent the night.

How we parted finally with our true-hearted friend, Senor Joaquim Lorenço Correa, which was quite a touching scene, in the manifestation of deep feeling with him and with all of us.

In company with Senor Domingos we proceeded sixteen miles, for the most part through a dreary campo, to the fazenda of Senor Francisco Antonio Macede, who is a son-in-law of Senor José Venancio, and by whom we were joined at this place in the course of the evening after our arrival.

Coffee was growing here in great luxuriance, and one single tree was pointed out to us which yielded over one arroba (which is thirty-two pounds) at a single crop. The trees were unusually large, and hence had the appearance of being too crowded in most parts of the field.

Several patients were prescribed for at this place, and I was impressed with the ingenuity displayed in a truss of 188domestic manufacture, which was worn by a negro man, laboring under hernia. Of course, no charge was made for advice anywhere, while enjoying the generous hospitalities of the people, though they frequently asked for my bill, when services were rendered, as at this place.

The sun was oppressively hot during the latter part of our ride to-day, and this was followed by a shower of rain just as we arrived, but it was slight, scarcely laying the dust. The country is suffering from need of rain, and that topic, which ordinarily is regarded commonplace, becomes now one of great interest to travellers as well as planters. While we find the dust from a large number of animals occasionally troublesome, the heat is of course more intense when the earth is dry and parched than it would be if some evaporation was taking place from a damp surface. Still, however, we do not find travelling in the heat of the day attended with greater inconvenience than during the summer in the Southern States, and we are now approaching the hottest season of this latitude. It would be preferable for those exploring this country to travel early in the morning and late in the evening, and the arrangement of hours for breakfast and dinner could be made so as to lie by during the entire hot portion of each day, with greater comfort to man and beast.

A sumptuous lunch, brought by Senor Domingos, was eaten with oranges, upon stopping to-day, and was followed by coffee furnished at this place. It will be seen that these people know how to provide for the inner man. A dinner of most ample proportions was served at six o’clock, and all had to rally their appetites again.

Saturday, November 11, 1865.

After taking breakfast at an earlier hour than usual, we left the fazenda of Senor Francisco, accompanied by him and his father-in-law, Senor José Venancio.

This old gentleman seems determined to make amends 189for his absence from home when we first visited his house; and, in response to a letter of introduction which I delivered to him, he said that he stood ready to aid us in any way we might command his services. He said that in the event our people should conclude upon coming anywhere in this region of country, to give him notice, and transportation would be provided free of cost to as many as he could find mules to accommodate, either of his own or other parties.

My attention was attracted this morning by the peculiar yelping of a large bird of the ostrich order, which I endeavored to get a sight of, but being very shy, it ran away and was concealed in the thick shrubbery of the campo.

We passed the small stream Rio Onca (tiger river) and the large and clear water-course Rio Lobos (wolf river), where a small piece of matto virgem (original forest) of good quality was entered, which was the only relief to the extended campos, until we approached near to the fazenda of Senor Joaquim Firmino de Oliveiro.

Here we stopped, and were regaled with an ample supply of jaboticabas, that fruit which, once eaten, no one can ever fail to enjoy. Having dined in a very substantial way with this gentleman, some of the party concluded to remain there with General Wood for the night; while I came with others to the city of Rio Claro, in the midst of a considerable fall of rain.

We stopped at the house of Dr. J. H. Gattiker, a Swiss physician, and in his absence were courteously received and entertained by his dignified and yet affable lady.

Sunday, November 12, 1865.

With our wants of every kind provided for in the best style, the beds were especially neat, having damask covers lined with silk, and the pillow-cases trimmed with fringe of the most tasteful pattern. The towels were also of fine material, and each end trimmed with fringe. Before making our toilet, coffee was served at our rooms in those beautiful 190china cups which are found generally in the houses of the better class of people. When I left my room, the Doctor was found in the parlor waiting to receive us; and, knowing that any thing from the United States, just now, would interest us, he went out and procured some copies of the Presbyterian newspaper, from the house of the Rev. Mr. Snyder, which were particularly appropriate for the day. I called, subsequently, and saw Mrs. Snyder; but, not finding Mr. Snyder at home, her tender of hospitality was declined for the present time.

General Wood and the rest of the party arrived in time to join us at a very late breakfast, and it was really a feast of fat things, in great variety and much good taste. I was seated at one end of the table, with the lady of the house upon my left hand, and I made such use of my limited stock of Portuguese as was necessary in communicating with her.

Some of our companions proposed to go to Ybicaba to-day, while the General and myself, with Mr. Snell, as interpreter, concluded to remain quietly here; and I wrote a lengthy communication for my friends, and also a letter to my wife, as appropriate Sunday-work.

All of us dined together; and the most bountiful supply was arranged in the greatest elegance upon the extended table, with a huge, fat turkey dressed in the best style, from the carving of which the General relieved our hostess.

Monday, November 13, 1865.

Our kind hostess furnished us with a cup of most excellent chocolate, before breakfast, this morning, though coffee had already been served prior to leaving our rooms. The General said that all his needs were supplied by this nutritious drink, and becoming very impatient at the delay of breakfast, proposed to go without waiting for it. But Dr. Gattiker would not hear of our going without breakfast; and, indeed, after breakfast, we had great difficulty in getting 191off from him, as he insisted we must spend the day at his house. I was favored with photographs of the Doctor and his wife, which will be treasured up in the collection of my friends in Brazil—she being a native of the country.

Upon starting, it was found that my mule was suffering from the loss of a shoe, and it became necessary for me to stop on the road, that he might have it replaced. General Wood and Mr. Snell, in the mean time, adopted my suggestion, and proceeded to Ybicaba. As the camaradas were behind, I awaited their arrival, and, taking one of their mules, he remained to bring mine when it was shod.

I made a fruitless attempt to advance upon this lazy and perverse mule, but at length, in despair, stopped upon the roadside, and dismounted to await the arrival of my own. Here, in the wild forest, it occurred to me that a tiger or other wild beast might attack me, but I congratulated myself that I could get out of the way faster on foot than upon this stupid animal, and it might be that the carnivorous propensity of the wild occupant of the woods would be satisfied with the tough carcass of the old mule, which I would leave to his tender mercies.

I thought we had started with some of the most shabby animals that the province could afford, but some of those which were left at Ybicaba by General Wood’s party were even worse than the two left by us. These animals were such as had been in use for the military service, and were turned out upon such pasturage as the lands around the city of São Paulo would furnish, which, from notice under a former date, may be inferred would not have the effect of improving their flesh or strength. Of such as the President had, gave he unto us; and we were thankful for the small service they rendered in getting us to places where we were generously supplied by our friends with better animals.

A few of the public animals were retained for the trip by General Wood’s party, and we kept two mules in service 192that were improved by the regular feeding, with comparatively light work under our pack-saddle.

As we are booked to remain as the guests of Senor Vergueiro to-morrow, it is expected that some of the camaradas will proceed with this drove of emaciated horses and mules in advance, so as to allow them to move leisurely. Some of them are scarcely able to drag their bare bones along, and they will accordingly go in light-moving order, without incumbrance of any sort.

The entire number of horses and mules belonging to both parties amounts to thirty-three, and there are about one-half the number belonging to parties at different points on the road, who had furnished them for the expedition, while perhaps there are a half dozen of the public animals in service, leaving ten of the nondescripts going loose.

Tuesday, November 14, 1865.

The following items are furnished by Senor José Vergueiro as the standard valuation of articles in this section:

Horses. Prices.

Tamed and broken $25.00 to $40.00

Untamed 20.00 to 25.00

Mares 4.00 to 6.00

Stallions same as castrated.

Jacks 50.00 to 100.00

Mules. Prices.

Broken for pack-mules $30.00 to $35.00

Riding 40.00 to 50.00

Untamed, by the lot 12.50 to 15.00

Pack-saddles 10.00

Ox-hides, (sun-dried) 1.00 to 2.50

Oxen for work, (pair) 30.00 to 40.00

193

Hogs. Prices.

For fattening, (each) $4.00 to $5.00

Fattened (neat) per pound 4½ to 5 cents.

Breeders, (each) $3.00 to $4.00

Pigs, (according to stock) 1.00 to 7.00

Sheep, (not much grown) 75 to 1.00

Goats 1.00 to 1.50

Cows, (milch, by lot) 7.00 to 7.50

Cows, (milking, single) 12.50 to 15.00

Calves 2.50

Bulls, (according to breed) 30.00 to 50.00

Bullocks, (not fattened) 10.00 to 11.00

Bullocks, (fattened) 12.50 to 20.00

Negroes. Prices.

Men, women and children together $500.00 to $750.00

Men separately 900.00 to 1000.00

Hire of men and women from Minas 40.00 to 60.00

The above with feed, clothing and medical attention by year.

Corn, (now 50 cents to 75 cents,) average per bushel 25

Beans, (now $3.00 to $5.00,) average per bush. 75 to 1.00

Rice, (now $4.00 to $5.00,) „ „ „ 75 to 1.25

Cotton in seed, per hundred pounds 3.75 to 4.00

Coffee, (retail in country,) per pound 8 to 12

Leather, per side 1.50 to 2.50

^[20]Hats, (home-made,) of fur, $2.00 to $2.50; of wool, $1.00 to

$1.50.

194Dom João Guilheoma D’Aguier Whitaker, Juiz de Direita, da Comarca de São João de Rio Claro, informs us that he has been directed by his family connection and friends to put at the service of our people, when they may arrive at Santos, a sufficient number of mules to transport them and their effects.

Senor Vergueiro has furnished General Wood with thirty-six different varieties of wood, which are to be found in the district of Lemaire, and suited to different domestic purposes, of which the names are given below.

Arindiaba, (very durable.)

Cabrinba, (for building.)

Yssé, (for building.)

Saguaragy, (for building.)

Sucupyra, (for building.)

Tayúba, (for building.)

Assaçafrá, (for building.)

Canella preta, (for building.)

Jacoranda, (rose wood.)

Cavyúna, (for building.)

Gualrynoyra, (for building.)

Jataby, (for building.)

Cajarâna, (for building.)

Araribá, (for fencing.)

Guaranta, (splits well for rails.)

Peroba, (fine canoes.)

Peroba-Merim, (for building.)

Guarabytá, (for building.)

Cedro, (door and window shutters.)

Jiquitiba, (for building.)

Timbo, (for building.)

Gleo, (valuable fruit.)

Guatambu, (for fencing.)

Açoita-Carallos, (for building.)

Caxétas, (for building.)

Vatinga, (for building.)

195Alecryser, (for building.)

Chimbé, (for fencing.)

Batáia, (canoes.)

Maria Preta, (for building.)

Figueira, (for building.)

Jugá, (for building.)

Guabiroba, (for building.)

Guarahyúba, (for fencing.)

Pitanga, (for fencing.)

Jaboticaba, (delicious fruit.)

These specimens of wood represent the useful growths of timber in this district of the province of São Paulo, and there are likewise a great number of palm trees, different qualities of cane, (bamboo and taqueira,) with a variety of vines, of which the sipo is especially valuable for cordage and other uses.

The guaranta is the best material for fencing, as it splits readily and is very durable. The hardness of most of the wood in this country is the most serious obstacle to using it in the form of plank.

Specimens of the following-named grasses have likewise been furnished to General Wood:

Gramminha.

Gramminha fina.

Pé de galinha.

Passuam.

Cassium Gerdura.

Gramma Naturæ.

Gramma larga.

Cassium Milham.*

Cassium Angelinha.*

Cassium de Angola.*

Those marked thus * are suitable for cutting and curing as hay, and we find this fazendeiro has a considerable amount dried and stored away for use as may be required.

196As there is no frost here to destroy the grass, and animals can run upon the pastures throughout the year, very few persons think it necessary to cure hay, yet these high grasses are cut and fed to milch cows, or to horses that are not put out to graze, and thus they are very useful.

During the cooler months of winter, and when there is a protracted drought in the warm season, none of the grasses grow so luxuriantly, and the grazing is of course much impaired, so that it is very convenient to lay up a supply of hay, as is done at this place during the season of full development, and retain it to meet emergencies.

This region of country is more particularly adapted to agricultural operations, and makes a better return under cultivation than to be used for pasturage, yet grass is produced of the best quality when it is allowed to grow naturally or the land is planted artificially with either the seed or the radicals of the different grasses. One of the varieties of cassium is propagated entirely by transplanting the roots, from which it extends.

Combining a notice of the habits and customs of the people with a record of their material resources, it is my privilege to note the entertainment given us to-day by our host. Quite a number of his friends were invited to join us at dinner, and the preparations for the feast were most elaborate. There were twenty-six persons seated at the table, including the lady of the house, whose quiet dignity gave a grace to the elegant style in which all was arranged. Our party were seated in juxtaposition to each other, General Wood being in the middle, and having Dr. Warne on his left hand and myself on his right. On the opposite side to us was seated Mr. Henry Whitaker, who was to act as interpreter. From this portion of the table there extended at right angles two wings, at which the other guests were seated, Senor Vergueiro being at the end of one of the wings and Dom Whitaker, Juiz Direita, at the end of the other. Senhora was seated at one of the angles adjoining 197the portion of the table occupied by our party, and thus as will be perceived entirely separated from her husband.

A description of the numerous dishes, and the many varieties of liquors and wines, is out of my power, as it was far more extensive than we are accustomed to see at a dining.

Early in the progress of the substantial part of the dinner, Senor Vergueiro arose and addressed those present as to his object in thus assembling his fellow-citizens with us around his table, closing with a sentiment complimentary to all our party, and mentioning by name General Wood and myself. To this the General responded at considerable length, closing with a toast to our host and hostess, when I made some remarks and toasted the authorities of Brazil, and the counties of Rio Claro and Lemeire; Dr. Warne responded to a sentiment from Judge Whitaker, and gave a toast, and, in like manner, Mr. Kernan being called out, made a few remarks and gave a toast.

All the remarks in either language were interpreted by Mr. Whitaker as the speakers proceeded, each making a pause between sentences, and thus all was mutually understood, giving the whole proceedings a fine effect.

A large proportion of the Brazilian guests joined in the expression of sentiments welcoming our people to this province, and manifesting much interest in the result.

After spending an hour at the table Mrs. Vergueiro retired, much after the style with us, and the festivities were kept up for three hours, amidst the most vociferous cheering and singing. This reminded me very much of some of the public dinners of our associations or societies, and we could scarcely realize that it was merely a collection of gentlemen at a private house.

When the scenes at the table were ended, by a toast to the Emperor, the company went to the saloon adjoining the dining-room, and engaged during the evening in various stag dances and comic plays. Even blindman’s buff was 198joined in by the parish priest, who was in attendance, and seemed to enjoy the sports hugely. Some of the recreations consisted in rehearsals of the pastimes of the lower order of people (called here caipira) when they have gatherings in the country, such as we would style a frolic or break-down.

Wednesday, November 15, 1865.

A large portion of the company having spent the night under the hospitable roof of our host, they left early this morning for their homes, and we were served with an early breakfast preparatory to our renewing our travel. Arriving at the villa of Lemeira, we stopped a short time at the house of Captain Lonço Franco, who took such a fancy to his brother larador (farmer) Mr. Brown, that he presented him with a likeness of his wife. Ale, wine and brandy were produced for the company, but we found much difficulty here, as elsewhere, in procuring water to drink, from the fact that no pails or buckets for holding water are ever kept in their houses. The article ordinarily used is a sort of earthenware jug or large bottle, but this is frequently not supplied with water, and it consequently has to be sent off to be filled when water is desired.

So far as I have observed there are no wells in this country, and upon inquiring why they were not used, the statement was made that there was no need for them, as there is an abundance of fresh running water to be found everywhere. The proximity to a spring seems to be a matter of little moment, and consequently the water is not often found very cool. Indeed, ice seems to be in very little demand in the cities, as there are machines for its manufacture at several points, which are not employed, and yet this article sells in Rio de Janeiro for ten cents per pound by retail.

We proceeded to the inn at the bridge of Atibaia for dinner, 199and afterwards to another inn at Quilambo, where our party spent the night.

Thursday, November 16, 1865.

Mr. Snell having gone forward last night to Campinas, where he resides, was requested to advise Senor Joaquim Bonifacio D’Amaral, alias Settequéda, that we would come to his house this morning for breakfast. Moving accordingly at an early hour, we rode sixteen miles, and upon entering the city, we met our friend, Senor Joaquim, with a party of other gentlemen on horseback, who came out to escort us to his house in Campinas.

It is eminently becoming that honor should be given where it belongs, and therefore, as a matter of history, I will state that General W. W. W. Wood was the object and prime cause of these demonstrations made at different points upon our route. Prior to joining him, I saw nothing of this kind of display on the part of the people, and pursued a very quiet business-like course in my associations with the inhabitants of the different sections visited. As there is nothing else to occupy my attention in passing again over the road previously travelled, it is very satisfactory to witness these manifestations in behalf of the representative of seven States.

We found every thing in complete order upon our arrival, and rooms with the neatest possible outfit for each of us. After washing and getting a cup of coffee breakfast was announced, and the ladies of the house were met in the dining-room, when I advanced and shook hands as with old friends. Senhora seemed to take quite an interest in my small acquisitions in Portuguese since my previous visit to the family, and I was encouraged to use all in my power, talking for myself and a little likewise for the General and others seated near me.

Dr. Reinhardt and Dr. Vaz, practitioners of the city, were met here, and the former coming some years ago from 200the United States, speaks our language fluently; while the latter uses some words and sentences of English, but slowly and imperfectly. I attempted to talk Portuguese to him while he responded in English, and we managed to communicate most matters that either desired to speak. As there were quite a number of the gentlemen of the city invited to breakfast with us, I made the acquaintance of some of the best people in the place, and renewed my acquaintance with Senor Joaquim Egydio de Sonsa, who is not so demure as he seemed upon my former meeting with him.

He accompanied Dr. Vaz, Dr. Warne, and myself to his city residence, for the purpose of eating jaboticabas; and while I enjoyed the fruit, I was much more favorably impressed with his bearing than previously. We saw there, also, a specimen of the small stingless bee of this country, which makes its receptacle for the honey in the hollow of a tree or the crevice of a wall, and affords the most delicious article that is ever made by any of the bee class.

There was a variety of fruit trees in the garden of this gentleman, and among them a specimen of the peach; which was, however, of inferior quality, as are all seen in any part of the country.

A large company was invited to join us at dinner to-day, and the entertainment was most sumptuous; with a fine turkey in addition to a fine old ham, and other meats, and as a compliment to the dessert, a plum pudding held a conspicuous place. This last delicacy was dressed in a way that I have not been accustomed to see; loaf sugar being placed over it, and then Cognac brandy poured upon this, and set on fire by a strip of paper which accompanied the lighted candle. I confess in this matter to have shown my greenness, as I really did not understand the programme until it was explained to me; and this account of the after dinner scene may enable some other person to avoid showing 201their ignorance. This dish is called here by its English name, plum pudding; and in like manner, roast beef is known by this name among the best families.

I was quite surprised when asked by the lady of the house, “Quere plum pudding?” and upon inquiry I was informed that when this article was imported the name was imported with it.

While we were yet engaged with the meats, Dr. Vaz arose, and representing our host, made a short speech of welcome to us, and closed with a sentiment embodying all by name. To show his appreciation of the compliment, the General made rather a lengthy address for a dinner table, and toasted the Emperor of Brazil and the province of São Paulo.

With a few preliminary remarks, I gave the sentiment that Settequéda and São Lorenço would long be remembered as the homesteads of our best friends. Dr. Warne premising some remarks, toasted our host and hostess.

General Wood not being well, begged to be excused, and retired to his room before the exercises were concluded, when Dr. Vaz went out to minister to him. Commendador Egydio and Senor Dom Pinto made addresses complimentary to our people, and calculated to encourage our movement to this country.

The remarks on this occasion were interpreted by Mr. Bennaton, as each speaker proceeded, and quite an awkward scene occurred from the deafness of Dom Pinto, who had not perceived that the remarks were interpreted; and when he rose to speak, afforded no opportunity for the interpreter to repeat his words; who consequently had to abandon the undertaking and leave the Dom to proceed without any prospect of being understood by our party.

After dinner I went with Dr. Reinhardt to his house and received much information as to the country and the medical profession of the city. He tells me that the physicians here realize from $5,000 to $7,000 per annum, and 202that the plantations of coffee around the place afford a considerable share of the business. He thinks of coming to the United States after a few years for the purpose of educating his children, having married and raised a family in Brazil.