HUNTING A HOME IN BRAZIL. (continued 3)

The hull of the coffee, and the cotton seed, with the refuse from the saw-mill, have constituted the fuel for the steam-engine, thus wasting the cotton seed that might be made very profitable, either by converting them into oil, or for manure. Upon bringing these matters to the attention of Senor Vergueiro, he expressed his intention to cease this destructive policy; and until he may be able to procure an apparatus for the manufacture of the cotton seed oil, he proposes to accumulate his seed, when it will be convenient to pour water upon them, if it should not rain sufficient to wet them, and thus rot them for manure.

A blacksmith shop and a woodshop are in very successful operation, making his own wagons, and machinery for all the purposes of his extensive establishment; and all of good quality.

A large and well-arranged brickyard is brought into requisition for the manufacture of brick, tiles, and earthen pipes, that are demanded about the place; and his fazenda being within itself a village, the consumption of these articles is very considerable throughout the year.

105The negro quarters are adjoining the residence of the family, and enclose a large court, in the centre of which is a belfry, and a lock-up for such as become unruly. There is a hospital department, with an office, where medicine is dispensed by the physician when his visits are required.

The stables are large and well-arranged for feeding, and the stalls are substantially floored with sawed plank, while there is an upper story for hay.

A spacious and neat fowl-house has recently been constructed, connected with an open grass lot, having a supply of water for the poultry.

The old coffee-mill and saw-mill, moved by water-power, are still preserved in good running order on the place.

After dinner to-day we were supplied with fine saddle horses, and accompanied Senor Vergueiro over his wide domain of a million coffee trees and fine cotton lands. We rode rapidly over miles of winding roads through the fields of coffee, stopping here and there to examine some feature of special interest, either in the mode of management or the development of the trees. Some had been growing there for twenty-six years that still presented a vigorous appearance and afforded a good yield of coffee this season. Others that were thirty-four years old have been cut off eighteen inches above the ground, two years since, and have again put forth branches, which present all the aspects of thriving trees. They have borne a crop of coffee this season, and the blooms afford a fine prospect for another year. This is a very interesting feature in the management of the old trunks of the coffee, as the advantages of a new growth are secured in one-half the time it could be attained from a new plant. Even should the root require to be dug around and manured, it would be far preferable to the uncertainty connected with the growth of a new plant; and in lands of good quality it certainly presents great advantages.

The stumps of the cotton stalk were also seen during our 106ride, which had recently been cut off for the purpose of securing the growth of another crop. There is a perennial growth of the cotton plant in this latitude, from the absence of frost; and by simply cutting away the limbs in the early spring another development ensues, which produces a larger yield than the first crop; and it is supposed that it may be cut off again at the end of the second year, and produce for the third time a full crop of cotton.

Thus the risks attending the sprouting and the early growth of the plant are avoided here; and as the evidence is conclusive that the yield of the second year is superior to that of the first, the advantages for the culture of cotton in this country gives it a preference to the southern part of the United States. The additional element of slave labor here is likely to afford results that cannot be secured by hired labor in the Southern States; and so soon as the negroes have become acquainted with the proper mode of working the cotton, we may anticipate yields of this staple exceeding any that have ever been realized in the United States.

The production of cotton here already is stated to reach two thousand pounds of seed cotton to the acre; and if this is a uniform yield of good land with good culture it is a decided success. There is not so much labor bestowed upon the plant here as in the Southern States, and the hoe is the only implement employed in the culture of this, or any thing else. It will appear marvellous to our heroic cotton planters that no preparatory ploughing is done, and that not even a hoe is used in planting the seed. The process, as I observed it here, consists in a negro scratching a place in the ground with his hand, and making three or four holes with the end of a stick, into which seeds of cotton are dropped and covered with the hand. This is done at distances of two and a half feet, and sticks of wood or pieces of cane are stuck into the ground to mark the place, and by this means to preserve right lines for the rows. Note this, ye planters of 107cotton in the Southern States, and think how painstaking you are to develop the growth of cotton in its several stages; yet here, in Brazil, it grows and matures well without culture of any kind. If cotton can be relied upon here to yield an average crop without labor, what may be expected from proper preparation of the soil for receiving the seed, and thorough working of the ground during the early growth of the plant.

Finding that the root of the cotton remained in the ground during the winter without injury, Senor Vergueiro supposed an advantage might be gained by planting the cotton seed during the winter, so that it might sprout up and commence growing in the earliest portion of the spring. He planted accordingly a considerable piece of ground in the month of May, which is in this latitude very nearly as November in the State of Louisiana. The prospect is quite unfavorable from present appearance of the plants, and he expects to replant the land, with the exception of a small space, to test fully the experiment. Had he known how much depends upon the disappearance of all frost, and the warming of the earth under the genial suns of the spring, as a preliminary to cotton planting, in the land where experience is the guide to success, this experiment would not have been necessary to convince him that nothing could be gained by the planting of the seed in the cold season, though there might be no frost to kill the plant.

Senor Vergueiro deserves great credit, however, for the boldness and energy with which he has urged forward his improvements, and others are now profiting by his enterprise in the domain of agriculture and the arts.

He produces all the corn requisite to raise hogs for his consumption, and also for a large number of horses and mules, keeping a pack of the latter to assist in transporting his coffee to market. He cures a considerable amount of hay for the use of his animals in winter, when the grass does not grow so abundantly; and I have heard of no other 108person in the country who gives any attention to haymaking.

Thus we find this fazendeiro combines all the various interests that conduce to the comfort of his family and the welfare of the large number of colonists and slaves who are dependent upon him for supplies. His extensive fazenda is emphatically a self-sustaining establishment, and he lives within himself to a very large extent. He grows his own beef and mutton, as well as his hogs, and his table is always supplied with the best that is found anywhere in the country.

Of course, there are many things which must come from other parts, and he avails himself of all the importations that may render a household comfortable, or a table desirable. Though hams are not cured here, the finest was found upon his table; and though flour comes from abroad, the choice varieties of flour bread, as well as other kinds, showed the domestic management of the estimable senhora most satisfactorily.

Tuesday, October 10, 1865.

We took our leave this morning of our kind friends at Ybicaba, and with a guide furnished by Senor José Vergueiro, we set out for the fazenda of Senor Rafael Paes de Barros, son of the Baron of Rerecicoba.

Our route lay through a region having a very large growth of timber, and we saw trees of eight feet in diameter, which gives twenty-four feet around the base of the trunk. The soil in this vicinity is of a dark red or purple color, and of a loose loamy consistence. It is the richest land of this country, and produces to great advantage all the crops usually planted here; yet some planters think this rich purple soil, that is known here as “terra rocha,” is not so well adapted to the culture of cotton as the land which has an admixture of sand.

We reached São Antonio, the residence of Senor Barros, 109about 12 o’clock, and he met us in the front yard with an open expression of hospitality, which made me feel that his words of welcome were not a mere empty sound.

After showing us his cotton house, where he had a large quantity of cotton in the seed, he took us to his recently-constructed gin-house, where the machinery is moved by water-power. He has a thirty-saw gin of American manufacture, and a small screw of his own make, which will meet his present wants; but so soon as his large force is employed in growing cotton, the appliances for preparing it for market must be greatly increased.

His experiment in the culture of cotton has been entirely satisfactory, and he considers the crop of great importance with the present high price in Rio.

The article grown here is of better quality than most of the cotton grown in the Southern States, and the fibre is not only longer and finer, but it is evidently stronger than our cotton. Some small specimens of the sea island cotton have been seen, which grew in this region of country, and they presented a beautiful silky-looking fibre; yet the size of the bolls, and the general yield of the stalks, does not afford encouragement to grow it rather than the other qualities of cotton.

Upon this fazenda there are four hundred thousand coffee trees, of which two hundred and eighty thousand are bearing fruit, and the others are young trees recently planted out.

Being invited to remain for dinner, we enjoyed a most abundant supply of the substantials, as well as the delicacies of the table.

Senhora manifested her respect by meeting us with a bow before going to her seat at the table, and though she made but few remarks during the dinner, this was simply in accordance with the recognized rôle of females in society here. A lady in Brazil is kept secluded to a great extent, and is rarely seen in a parlor with gentlemen, except they may be 110intimate friends of the family. When seen at the table, she is usually seated by her husband, or if he is at the end of the table her position is adjacent to the corner upon his right or left hand, and guests are seated on the opposite side.

In the case of young ladies the restrictions are still greater, and with the existing regime, I don’t understand how gentlemen become sufficiently intimate with young ladies to form a basis of marriage. Yet matrimonial alliances are here formed very early, and perhaps in part influenced by the desire of the parent to transfer the guardianship of his daughter to other hands, so that he may be relieved of the sense of responsibility. I am told that it is not uncommon for girls to be married as early as they reach the age of thirteen or fourteen years. The physical development of females in this climate is much in advance of those in colder latitudes, and they become mothers in Brazil before females in the United States are considered marriageable. Not only is their vigor of frame thus impaired, but the cultivation of their minds is in like manner arrested by the cares which must necessarily devolve upon them, and really it seems that the evil of secluding females from the freedom of society brings with it a host of other evils. If the cause be corrected, the effects will be remedied as a natural consequence.

Senor Barras very kindly proposed to furnish me letters to parties who might aid me in the prosecution of my objects, and with the assurance of his cordial good wishes we proceeded on our line of travel in the afternoon.

After a pleasant ride of three miles across the country, in which the Rio Claro was crossed, we reached the town known by the name of São João de Rio Claro. It is constructed chiefly with one-story houses, after the style of other interior towns through which we passed, yet there is more of neatness in their appearance, and in the order of the streets, than has been noted elsewhere.

111We called, with a letter of introduction, upon Tenente Coronel Senor José Estaninlaus D’Oliveiro, the commandant of the national guard for this district.

He has recently proposed to give one hundred dollars to every citizen of his district who would volunteer for the active service of the war.

When my mission was explained to him, he signified his readiness to aid me, and said his house was open for me or any of my friends whenever it might suit us to stop with him. He gave us an invitation to spend the night at his house, but my object being to see as much of the country as possible, I thanked him for his kind offer, and departed with his best wishes.

In proceeding from Rio Claro we encountered the first open plains I had seen, and with a poor sandy soil; there was scarcely grass sufficient to sustain the cattle that were here and there scattered over these campo lands.

For several miles the monotony was only broken by a few huge ant-hills, that seemed to be the result of some considerable excavation of the earth, and the inquiry was naturally suggested whether the people had been digging for gold or making a well for water.

This striking contrast of barren plains, in close proximity to the richest forest lands, is a very remarkable characteristic of this section.

After passing a large area of this waste land, we reached another fazenda of Senor José Vergueiro, called Angelica, where he awaited our arrival, and repeated the kindly reception which had been extended to us at Ybicaba. This place is ten miles from Rio Claro, and consists of twenty-six thousand acres of land. Much of this large domain is campo land, of little value; and yet there is an immense body of very valuable land, a part being under cultivation in coffee, sugar-cane, cotton, corn, rice, beans, &c., while there is yet a large portion of original forest that is favorably located and of good quality.

112The buildings on this place are of huge proportions, and the machinery adapted to all the practical operations of the various departments of industry. Water-power is used for a saw-mill, a grist-mill and a coffee-mill, while oxen are employed in running a wooden mill for the sugar-cane.

The facilities here for conducting the various kinds of business are not equal to those at Ybicaba, yet the basis is here for indefinite additions and improvements in the appliances, and the energy of the proprietor is likely to render all its resources available for efficient operation.

This place was formerly the family residence of the father and mother of Senor Vergueiro, and the name, Angelica, is that of his mother.

His father was a man of considerable note, and was for a time regent of the empire during the minority of the present Emperor. He has been dead several years, and this property is held jointly by the heirs, but under the control of the gentleman above-named, who expects to make it the counterpart of Ybicaba.

Upon this place there is a mill-race, four miles long, but even then the water reaches only midway the immense wheel, making it a breast-wheel, however, of immense power, by the large column of water.

All the negroes came into the house to salute their master, with the customary placing of hands together, and saying “Santa Christ,”^[14] which is an abbreviation for “Louvado seja nosso senhor Jesus Christ,” that is said by almost every negro in meeting a white person.

113Wednesday, October 11, 1865.

Having enjoyed a comfortable bed for the night, we had a cup of coffee upon rising this morning, and afterwards joined Senor Vergueiro in making an examination of a very substantial and neat residence of sandstone, which has been recently erected on this place. The sandstone is procured from a quarry located upon the lands of the fazenda, and when dressed makes a very excellent wall. The general plan of the house was made by Senor Vergueiro, but the services of an engineer named Shelb have been called into requisition for the embellishments, and the result is very creditable to both. Although the building is not large, it has the lower story arranged for machinery, with a large water-wheel on the side of the house, but so covered as not to attract the attention of one taking an outside view of the building. This structure is an ornament to the place, and indicates progress in the architectural designs of the country.

We were shown here a plan of the lands belonging to this fazenda, which had been executed by the above-named engineer. It displays all the different kinds of soil, with the distinction of growth upon each; the campo lands having a very scanty and scrubby growth, the matto virgem being covered with the large original forest trees, and the capoeira with small trees that have sprung up on land which was formerly under cultivation. It is a large colored map, evidently made with great care, after a regular survey of the premises, made by contract with the proprietor.

After breakfast we rode out to take an extended view of the lands under cultivation, and the woodlands that lay convenient for observation. On the way, we passed the houses occupied by the colonists employed on this place, and I counted twenty-four double houses, making forty-eight tenements, for the separate families. Each family has a piece of ground attached to the house, or located at a 114convenient distance, so that corn and vegetables may be grown for their own use.

The contract with the proprietor only requires their services in gathering coffee from the trees, and for this labor they are paid what is considered to be one-half the value of the crude berries that are gathered. The estimate placed upon an alqueric—corresponding to our bushel—of the crude coffee berries, is seventy-five cents; and unless the crop is good, ordinary hands do not gather more than two bushels per day. Yet when the trees are very full, and the person is industrious and skilful, from five to eight bushels may be gathered in one day.

The lands planted in coffee at this place are not of the best quality, and yet the crop seems to have been fair, judging from those trees which have not yet been gathered.

The corn and beans being but little above the ground, no estimate can be formed as to what the crop may be; and the same in regard to rice which has been planted. But the general impression received from riding through the plantation was not particularly favorable to its fertility, nor does the ground lie favorably for cultivation.

We rode through a large body of woodland, which gave indications of a fair quality of soil, and lay very advantageously for cultivation. Yet it is not of that purple aspect which characterizes the best soil; and I do not see upon this place any of the terra rocha which abounds at Ybicaba. I was led to infer that this was perhaps the most favorable view which could be taken of the premises, as my proposition to traverse the territory in another direction, in the afternoon, did not meet the acquiescence of Senor Vergueiro, and yet he proposes to sell a part or the whole of this extensive tract of land. He does not make known his terms, and I don’t think that any portion of the vast area of this fazenda fulfils the conditions for a desirable settlement.

Captain Carvalho, an old gentleman of sixty-five years 115of age, is the administrator at Angelica; and seems to be treated with much respect by the proprietor. He is regarded as the best authority respecting persons or places within twenty miles of this fazenda, and has rendered us important service in these respects. His wife is a young, hale, buxom woman, who looks as if she might welcome another husband at the demise of this frail old man. She did not take a seat at the table with us, nor did she make her appearance often in the room. The women of this medium class of people have not usually presented themselves when we have visited their houses, nor are they ever seen at the table during meals.

I wrote a long communication from this place for the information of my friends, which was sent to my wife, along with a private letter to her.

Thursday, October 12, 1865.

Having secured a guide for the various parts of the country which we expected to visit, we left Angelica this morning, and came a distance of twelve miles to the fazenda of Senor João Ribeiro de Santos Carmargo. A letter from him was given to his administrator, Senor Antonio, who seemed at the outset to be at a loss what disposition to make of us and our rather large retinue. Ere long, however, we got into the house, and our baggage being brought in, he gave directions for the care of the stock. We soon found, also, that arrangements were in a state of progress for giving us dinner, which proved to be a good substantial meal.

In the afternoon he conducted us to a portion of woodland, also to a field planted recently with coffee trees, and having a crop of corn and beans interspersed with it.

I was surprised to find this soil very superior to that about the location of the building, and was impressed with the importance of making a thorough investigation of the adjacent territory. We went in a southeasterly direction 116to the foot of the serra, through a virgin forest of three miles in extent, and most of the growth indicated fruitfulness of the soil. At this point, the land under cultivation presented a good appearance, and the old corn-stalks showed a good result for the past year. There was also between this and the woods some open pasture, which had a fine crop of grass, and we suggested that our animals be sent here to graze, while we should be furnished from the fazenda for to-morrow’s ride.

Friday, October 13, 1865.

Mounted upon the plantation-mules, we rode at an early hour with Senor Antonio to visit the plantation, which runs along the foot of the serra, in an easterly direction from the site of the houses. The coffee trees were the chief objects of interest, and presented the aspect of vigorous development. Most of them had been stripped entirely or partially, and no correct opinion could be formed as to their yield from the statements of the man in charge.

A small piece of land had been planted last year in cotton, and the stalks, which had been cut off preparatory to another crop, indicated only a moderate development. There was a considerable extent of ground open for pasture that lay favorably for cultivation, and from the size of the old, deadened trees still standing upon it, the prospect would be good for a yield of cotton.

Within a half-mile from the foot of the serra, for more than a mile in length, the soil was of a reddish aspect, with a considerable proportion of sand, and as it receded beyond this distance from the serra, the increase of sand was such as to render the soil unproductive.

In all directions around the houses of this fazenda a barren campo extends to a considerable distance, and the land is not even suitable for pasture, as the grass which grows upon it is not eaten by the horses or cows to any extent, nor does it prove nutritious.

117After returning from this visit to the coffee field, we were joined by Major Manuel Reginaldo de Morars Salles, who breakfasted with us, and then showed us another extensive portion of the lands. Taking the main road towards the southeast, upon which we started yesterday evening, we continued upon it, as the boundary of the land, for two miles.

Though the trees growing along this line, for more than a mile from the point of divergence yesterday evening, were large and numerous, yet the sand predominated in an increasing ratio, rendering the soil of little value. We then travelled for three miles through a barren campo, constituting the border of the tract, when a virgin forest was entered, through which we rode about half a mile into the better quality of land near the serra. Here the land was productive, but was very irregular, and liable to wash under cultivation, as there was more or less sand mixed with it. We did not find here, as at the northern portion of the serra, that dark red soil which always has more solidity than the sandy soil, and, hence, less liability to wash away by the rains.

From this point we emerged, on a different line from that by which we entered, and soon encountered a sterile region following round the border of the tract for a mile, through a complete waste of sandy campo land.

We at length came to a considerable stream, upon which there is an advantageous site for machinery, and were the better quality of lands near this point, the facility for securing this fine water-power would constitute quite a recommendation to the place. But the desirable lands are all at some miles distance, and a very bad route for the construction of roads from them to this point. We encountered at a house here a grove of delicious oranges, upon which we all feasted to our utmost capacity.

Reviewing the impressions of yesterday evening and to-day, I would conjecture that this body of land extends 118about six miles in length from northwest to southeast, and that its average width from the serra was two and a half miles, making nine thousand and six hundred acres of land. Of this, I would consider one-third as utterly worthless, and another third as only suited for pasturage, while the remaining three thousand and two hundred acres is good land, and lies advantageously for cultivation.

The administrator stated that there were seventy thousand (70,000) coffee trees bearing fruit, and twenty thousand (20,000) trees which have been planted at different times within the past two years, while there are ten thousand (10,000) plants recently set out. Of course, the value of the property is increased by the growth of these coffee trees, as every tree bearing fruit makes an annual income, and the estimated value of each plant when it commences to yield is twenty cents.

The territory over which we have passed has many small streams of water convenient to the different sections of the land, and the water was clear and pleasant to drink.

The land under cultivation lies in two separate localities, and yet both near the serra. The most elevated grounds in this country seem to be the most fertile, having, in the best localities, a dark red loamy soil; while the level lands, either in low flats or in plateaus, are composed largely of sand, and have little adaptation to agricultural purposes. The chief growth upon the campos are a harsh grass and a wild fern, with here and there a few scrubby trees of small size.^[15]

119Saturday, October 14, 1865.

We arose at daylight this morning and getting a cup of coffee rode five miles through campo lands, to the Rio Roque, (River Rock.) At the point visited another small stream, with a five-mile site, runs into this river; and should any one locate near this place it would be available for machinery requiring but little water-power.

Senor Antonio Rodriguez Foone, the administrator, who was specially charged with the duty of showing us these lands, referred to an old woman living in a house near by, and was told by her that the lands beyond the Rio Roque belonged to the property; and as he supposed the property extended up the western side, we preferred to explore this without crossing the river. We rode up for nearly a mile, and found that the nature of the soil and the configuration of the surface were very well adapted for cultivation. The timber upon it is large, and much of it having a long, straight trunk, which would adapt it admirably for building. The soil near the road is of that dark red loamy order which is considered the most productive in the country. This taken in connection with the more elevated woodlands lying on the opposite side of the stream, would form a good settlement for several families, and the general aspects are favorable for health.

After returning from this visit we passed through a body of land lying in a southwest course from the buildings, and about one mile distant. It lies very favorably, and is evidently superior to most of the lands on this place. The soil is that dark red loam which constitutes terra rocha, and the timber is much the same as that of the land described upon the Roque. If there is any considerable extent of these lands they would form an offset to the larger proportion of worthless land belonging to this fazenda. On this point, as on others connected with dimensions, our guide could give me no information, so that I am left to the broad domain of surmise.

120In forming an approximate estimate of the lands traversed this morning, I am without any other criterion than the probabilities based upon what I saw and what Senor Antonio supposed to be the outline of the fazenda.

The figures used in my calculation for the other portion of the land will correspond very well to my ideas of the extent of territory here, and we may say it is six miles long by two and a half miles wide, making nine thousand six hundred acres. The land previously spoken of lies westward and northward from the houses, and making a line from the southern end of the serra across by the buildings to the boundary, leaves all the land south and east to be included in the observation of this morning.

This entire area does not perhaps contain over two thousand acres of productive land,^[16] and the rest is of a quality that cannot be made available for any practical object, save it might be for a glass factory, from the immense beds of sand accumulated on this barren waste.

We left Morro Grande, the fazenda of Senor João, and went twenty miles northwest to the house of Captain Feliciana.

121Sunday, October 15, 1865.

Having enjoyed the plain and substantial hospitality of our old friend the Capitão, as men who are hungry and tired always do, we saw no reason for detention during the day, and set out at an early hour, accompanied by our host, to the fazenda of Senor Dom Francisco Antonio de Sonza Queiroz.

A dignified and yet courteous reception was soon followed by the assignment to very comfortable quarters, and the furnishing of a most excellent breakfast.

His own wife, and the wife of Senor Dom Francisco Aguiar de Barros, graced the table with their presence; and the style of every thing indicated the refinement and elegance of the families. The gentlemen were so situated at the table as to separate their wives from the guests, which seems to be one of the relics of the olden times that clings to the people of the best class.

These two gentlemen own lands adjoining each other, and both having recently opened up their fazendas, Dom Barros has not yet got his buildings arranged for his residence; and his wife being a sister of Dom Queiroz the families are living together.

Every thing about the establishment is conducted with much neatness and good taste; and the dinner table, with its rich service of silver and variety of dishes, had an air of completeness that would do credit to any society. Our tea-table, also, was a type of the best order of things; and, though the ladies left before the retiring of the gentlemen, it must have been a great relief to get away when not partaking in the conversation. With this class of people tea is not served until half-past eight o’clock; and after the table is cleared the party sit around and chat until the hour of retiring for the night. When a social group are thrown with one another at tea, this is doubtless very pleasant; but not understanding much that was said on the part of others, and disliking to call upon Mr. Bennaton 122to interpret commonplace remarks either from myself or others, I found this tarrying around the tea-table quite a patience-trying ordeal.

I observe here, as elsewhere, that there is a long, slim pole erected in the front yard, with an emblem of some saint on a piece of cloth in a frame, attached to the top of the pole. They are called saint-poles, and the figure is changed in commemoration of each particular saint’s day.

At every house that has been passed or visited, without distinction of the class of people, where Roman Catholics reside, this emblem of their faith is to be seen. Though the figures are usually of the most uncouth aspect and clumsy execution, it is supposed that holy associations cling around them, and they are retained even when tattered and defaced by the elements.

In connection with this it is particularly becoming to refer to the habit among the negroes, which has attracted my attention at several of the fazendas, and which was observed here this evening. After the forming of all in a line, for the purpose of counting them at night, they repaired to the rear apartment of the building, occupied by the family, and all kneeling down they rehearsed a religious service, in which they were lead by one of their number. After this all retired to their respective lodgings for the night.

I observed that a similar proceeding was conducted in the yard where the negroes were mustered or formed into line, at the fazenda of Senor João Robiero de Santos Carmargo, and it is doubtless a part of the routine whenever any considerable number of negroes are collected.

Were it really a service of the heart, and not a mere outward ceremony, there would be an appropriateness and impressive solemnity in thus looking to God for his blessing at the close of the day’s labor.

But while a few of the number may have some sense of reverence for God associated with this daily observance, it 123is evident that the greater part join in it as a mere matter of routine.

The mustering and counting of the negroes at night is usually done in front of the residence of the owner, and he thus has the assurance that all are present. I learn that the habit of running away is not uncommon here, and at some places the sound of the shackles has been heard when the negroes were assembled, though nothing of the kind was brought to my attention in this establishment.

In some instances the shackles are put on their ankles only at night to keep them in their quarters, while in others they are kept on while at work as a matter of punishment, and I saw at one fazenda a very old woman with shackles on her ankles while she was employed in stirring the coffee that was drying. She had been guilty of poisoning other negroes, and was regarded as a very dangerous person to go at large.

My observation of slavery in this country leads me to the conclusion that the exactions from the negro are greater, and the provision for his subsistence and comfort less than was experienced formerly in the United States.

Monday, October 16, 1865.

After a pleasant rest for the night, we were regaled this morning before rising with a most excellent cup of coffee, which, it will be observed, is a part of the hospitality in every well-regulated household.

In due course of time our breakfast came, and, along with other articles, we enjoyed “Café corn leite” and excellent corn bread, made of fine meal.

This “Café corn leite” is prepared by boiling the milk with the coffee, and is so great an improvement upon the simple mixture of milk or cream with coffee that it ought to be resorted to generally by our people who are fond of this combination for breakfast.

Being supplied with horses by our host, we rode out with 124him to see his newly-opened plantation, called Fazenda Nova, passing in our route the site he has selected for building upon, whenever time is allowed for erecting a family residence. His brickyard and saw-mill are in successful operation, and the latter is a well-arranged perpendicular saw, that performs admirably, even in the hard material of the timber in all this country.

I have as yet seen no instance of a circular saw in operation here, and it certainly would be better adapted to the compact and hard wood which has to be encountered in sawing.

The coffee trees on this place have all been set out within the past two years, and some of them have been planted very recently. In all there are one hundred and forty thousand, and the number is still to be extended.

The lands under cultivation are, for the most part, elevated, and of the dark red terra rocha, being of very superior quality for the coffee.

We visited also the newly-opened fazenda^[17] of Senor Dom Barros, and I there had the opportunity of witnessing the burning of a “roça,” or new ground, of twelve acres, upon which the timber had been simply felled and partially dried. The land being scraped around to prevent extension of the fire, all the negroes were posted at regular intervals to guard the progress of the conflagration, and the fallen timber was then fired in various places.

It was an interesting sight, as illustrating the custom of all the planters in Brazil for preparing their lands to receive the seed for the first time; and, with the heat of a boiling sun, in addition to the heat of the fire, I found that “distance lends enchantment to the view.”

In riding through the sun to-day I was more affected by 125its heat than at any time previously, and though it may look something like adopting the doctrine of “Similia similibus curantur,” I resorted to the use of strong coffee, with decidedly good result. At the new structure of Senor Barros we found excellent coffee prepared for us, and with a sense of depression from my exposure to the hot sun, I drank two cups of the ordinary size in the United States, which relieved me greatly; and, upon going out again, I did not experience so much inconvenience from the heat, though the sun was beaming down its rays with even greater intensity than before. This stimulant evidently lessened the influence of the sun.

The thermometer stands to-night at 80° Fahrenheit, and was doubtless 90° at two o’clock P. M., as it is very sensibly cooler since the sun disappeared, while a pleasant breeze always fans the earth at night.

Some valuable information was received from Dom Queiroz to-day, in regard to the employment by contract, of men having negroes under their control, from the province of Minas. These negroes have been heretofore employed upon coffee estates which have ceased to be profitable in that section, and the owners are sending them to this comparatively new region, under responsible overseers, to contract with the landowners for their labor. They go into the virgin forest, clear it up after the style of the country, and plant young coffee trees furnished by the landowner, which are to be cared for, and the intervening space of land cultivated on their own account during four years; at the end of which time, the field is turned over to the owner, with the coffee trees yielding fruit.

In consideration of this service, the landowner pays to the contractor twenty cents for each coffee tree which is growing and ready to yield; and if any cash is advanced to him prior to the end of the fourth year, he gives guarantees for the fulfilment of his stipulation, and pays twelve per cent. per annum interest upon the money thus received. The contractor 126supplies himself with tools, and his hands with provisions, or other articles needed, so that the landowner is not responsible in any way for them.

During the first two years, the contractor may plant whatever crop he chooses between the rows of the coffee trees, but the owner has the right to dictate what shall be planted in the subsequent two years; and as the growth of the plants may be impaired by the presence of high corn or other things calculated to shade them, these may be forbidden.

Should the coffee commence yielding before the expiration of the four years, the contractor obligates himself to gather the crop, and turn over one-half of it to the owner of the land.

The advantage to the contractor consists in having the use of land for four years, in consideration of clearing it, and the twenty cents per tree is very full pay for the labor and attention bestowed upon the coffee plants.

On the other hand, the owner, having a large amount of land without sufficient force to do all this heavy work, gets his land put in good order for cultivation, and has the coffee trees upon it bearing fruit. Considering that four hundred and sixteen (416) trees grow upon one acre of ground, his improved land costs him eighty-three dollars ($83) per acre; and the question arises, could not day-laborers have been employed throughout this period for the same outlay of money, who would have given the owner the annual return from the cultivation of the lands, in addition to the final growth of the coffee trees?

I learn that one man can clear and plant in the course of a year ten acres of land, and the same man can of course cultivate it in a crop of provisions during subsequent years. This man can be hired to work, and find himself, certainly at one dollar a day for the working days of the year, which may be put down at three hundred dollars, which for four years will be twelve hundred dollars.

127For this amount, I have had my annual provisions from the land, and my coffee trees are now ready to yield me an annual crop. If this sum now is reduced by subtracting the value of the crop for each of the three last years, at the rate of thirty dollars per acre for each year, making nine hundred dollars, it leaves but three hundred dollars of outlay for my coffee trees; or thirty dollars per acre, instead of the eighty-three dollars per acre paid out by the system of contract.

In this point of view, it is evident that our friend Dom Queiroz and others who make this arrangement with the negro contractors are paying very exorbitant rates of hire. I have purposely placed the rate of day-labor far above the rate usually paid in this country; and it is not usual to pay a caipira or Portuguese more than five dollars a month, and furnish him lodging and provisions, which in cash outlay will not exceed one-half of the sum specified in my calculations.

It behooves our people to consider all these things in making their arrangements, and not fall into any plan of operations because others are doing it.

In estimating the increased value of lands, with a full stand of coffee trees bearing fruit, the calculation may with more propriety be based upon the estimate of twenty cents per tree, because you receive an immediate return for the investment, of from three to six pounds of coffee per tree, annually, which will be worth, free of all expense, twenty cents the first year for each tree, and thus repay the entire outlay.

One of the incidents of travel in this country has been encountered to-night, by finding a bicho or chigre embedded in one of my toes. A little darkey was called to identify the parasite; and a “tropeiro” extracted it, with the nidus complete, making a very nice operation.

128Tuesday, October 17, 1865.

Leaving our pleasant associations at Nova Fazenda this morning, we came in company with Dom Queiroz and Captain Feliciana to the residence of Senor João Franco da Morars. He had a most sumptuous breakfast in readiness for us, which was enjoyed very much after our ride of six miles across the country.

Setting out after 10 o’clock, we rode over the land which this gentleman proposes to sell. The extensive tract of Babylonia is connected at one point with the land upon which he resides. The former consists of ten thousand and two hundred (10,200) acres, and the latter of three thousand (3,000) acres, making together thirteen thousand two hundred (13,200) acres of land.

The body of land known as Babylonia consists of the possessions of a number of persons, as follows:

João Franco da Morars, 3,540 acres; José da Lacerda Guimarans, 3,600 acres; Aranjo Lima, 420 acres; José Goncalves, 840 acres; José Estivão, 780 acres; Prudenta, 540 acres; José Ignacio, 252 acres; Bento Ribeiro, 252 acres; and the residence of João Franco da Morars, 3,000 acres.

Price of lands in Babylonia, $4.50 per acre.

Price of residence of Senor João, $5.00 per acre.

Between the last-named and the rest of the land there intervenes partially a portion of another fazenda, called Quilombo, which it is thought can be had upon similar terms as the above.

The stream Ribeirão dos Negros forms the boundary for a short distance upon the north of the first-named tract, and then penetrates the lands of Babylonia; supplying water convenient to other portions, and having several considerable falls which might be made available for any extent of machinery.

The surface of the land is irregular, and in some parts mountainous, inclining from either side towards the water, 129which traverses the entire extent of the lands. Upon the tract enumerated as that of José Goncalves there is an elevated plateau of perhaps one hundred acres which lies favorably, and has a stream of water running across it through an artificial channel. By means of this small stream a monjolo is worked at two different places; and the soil is of good quality, while the site for building is very advantageous. Upon a portion of this plateau, twenty thousand (20,000) coffee plants are growing from the seed, which are two years old and look thriving, but are still small. When the seed are planted in the places where the tree is to grow, it is thought to have some advantages; yet the almost universal custom is to transplant from a nursery the rundas or young sprouts when they have remained for one year, and thus the stand is perhaps rendered more certain and uniform.

If several families should combine in purchasing these lands, a hamlet or village might be formed upon the plateau spoken of, and each have sufficient ground in connection with their dwellings to raise vegetables and necessary supplies. Those employed as laborers could be located upon their respective tracts of land, and thus be separated from their dwellings. In this way children might have a common school, and many arrangements for the common benefit of the families could be made convenient to this site, while the water could be carried to any point it might be desired. The soil upon most of the hillsides is of good quality and free from frost, so as to be suitable for planting coffee.

Tobacco was seen growing upon this place, as a second crop from the stalks which had been previously cut off, and though the result did not appear favorable, it would repay the trouble of gathering. This region produces tobacco very satisfactorily; and the neighboring section of Belem (a contraction of Bethlehem) is regarded as particularly well suited for the culture of this plant. The mode of preparing the tobacco for market, here and elsewhere in the country, is to work it into a kind of rope, with the hands, 130that is, coiled round a piece of wood two and a half or three feet long, so that it may be conveniently shipped upon the pack-mules. It presents a very dark, oily aspect, as if some foreign ingredient were used in its preparation, and yet this is said to be simply the exudation of the juice, which results from the manipulation. This tobacco is strong, but not regarded as equal in quality to that manufactured in Virginia; and my friends who used tobacco attributed this inferiority to the want of proper treatment in this Brazilian twist.

In other provinces of Brazil, more northward, I am informed that the leaf-tobacco is packed in bales, and shipped largely to England and other places, for making segars, or for other processes of manufacture that enhance its value.

The soil and climate are said to be well adapted to the growth of tobacco in all parts of the country.

Wednesday, October 18, 1865.

We parted from our old friend Captain Feliciana, the courteous and kind Dom Queiroz, and our host, Senor Franco, at nine o’clock this morning.

Captain Feliciana is a plain, unassuming, genteel person, who has manifested his regard for us by going the entire round with us since leaving his own premises, and though over fifty-five years of age, he manifests considerable activity in exploring the country, and has really been of much service to us in communicating information of this region.

Dom Queiroz speak a little English, and relieved my embarrassment by the gentleness and urbanity of his bearing towards me during our sojourn at his house and our association subsequently. When I bade him good-bye, he said, in terms that required premeditation, with his limited use of English, “If I can be of any service to you at any time, call upon me. You will find me here, ready to serve you; and I am at your orders.”

Under other circumstances, this might have been viewed 131as a mere passing remark; but, having found him so unassuming in his hospitality previously, this kindness manifested at our parting was highly appreciated.

Our host, Senor Franco, has manifested the greatest generosity in supplying our wants, and also in providing for our animals and attendants.

He had a very interesting daughter, who had met us at the outset in the dining-room, and at each meal subsequently, causing us to take quite an interest in her dignified management during the indisposition of her mother. When we were ready to leave the house, Mr. Bennaton asked for her, and we shook hands with her, and gave her our best wishes at parting.

Senor Franco said that I would come with my friends to live amongst them, if I knew how much gratification it would afford the people of the country.

He kindly sent a negro man with us, to pilot the road, and we reached the residence of Senor Maj. Joaquim Roberto de Silveira at 4 o’clock P. M.; we got dinner promptly, but there being no corn on the place for our stock, he sent off to a neighbor, and after some hours procured only half a bushel, which affords but half a feed for night and morning.

He has recently settled this place, and has not yet made a crop of corn, which explains very satisfactorily his deficiency; but it was supposed that others in the neighborhood would have made a crop of corn, and could have responded to his call in a larger quantity than he procured. In asking him to procure the corn, Mr. Bennaton expected to pay for it, but he would receive nothing for it, and accommodated us, as all have done, in the true spirit of hospitality.

This section of country presents an admixture of campo and forest lands; the former being a light, sandy, barren waste; while the latter vary considerably in quality. Most of the woodland seen to-day was near the premises of our host, and though it looked as if cotton might be grown advantageously, there was a large element of sand, which 132predisposed it to wash, when there was much irregularity of surface. It had a dark gray aspect, and corresponded more to the character of soil seen in some parts of South Carolina than any land yet seen in Brazil, and may produce equally well.

Thursday, October 19, 1865.

After an early breakfast, we were supplied with a negro guide by Major Silveira, and travelling through a region that was almost entirely campo, we proceeded twelve miles to the residence of Senor Major José Maria Gavião, at São José.

In his absence, we were kindly received by his family; and upon his arrival, we had the strongest demonstration of his generous hospitality. He not only treated us with the best he had to eat and drink, but supplied us with fine horses to ride over his plantation.

He has only established himself here a few years, and yet his arrangements are very complete. He has a large tract of land lying remarkably well for cultivation, and very fair soil, though not of the best quality. It is free from frost, and thought to be well suited for coffee culture. He has one hundred and twenty thousand coffee plants of different ages already planted, and is ready to extend the number when he has rains to favor transplanting.

He has a good saw-mill, with perpendicular saw, which works very satisfactorily. He has also a grist-mill that makes beautiful corn-meal; and really it is refreshing to see the meal instead of farina, which is the substitute in most of the parts of the country for bread.

We availed ourselves of the fine bathing facilities at the mill to refresh our persons, and put on clean clothes. The Major sent down large towels for us, and provided likewise a bottle of Cognac, for us to take a little after concluding the bath, to prevent any bad effects of the cold water. Bathing in this climate is not only very grateful to our bodies but it is regarded essential to health and comfort.

133I here had an opportunity of enjoying for the first time a feast of that delicious fruit, the jaboticaba. It is a large, dark purple fruit, resembling very much the appearance and taste of the finest specimens of muscodine, but the average size is somewhat larger than the largest muscodine, and the juice is even sweeter and more delicate than that of the muscodine. It is regarded entirely free from danger, when the juice alone is eaten, and many swallow the pulp also without experiencing any inconvenience. This fruit is an anomaly in its location upon the body of the trees, or upon the larger limbs, by a very short, delicate attachment, and is not found upon the twigs or ends of the branches as other fruits. The tree producing it is a tall, smooth, light-yellow colored forest growth; and in riding out to the woods, a negro ascended one of them and gathered a quantity of the fruit. It grows also when transplanted, and makes a beautiful shade-tree for a yard, while bearing the choicest fruit.

I ate at the house, likewise, the cassia, which is a fruit produced in the campos, and has a very pleasant acidulous taste, that is found very good when used as a lemonade with water. This fruit has the peculiarity of producing the seed at the lower end, exterior to the investment. Though found upon a small shrub in the campo, it is grown under cultivation upon a large tree, and of much larger size and finer flavor.

We were shown here a small hand-roller cotton-cleaner, which is the only reliance thus far for a gin. A small spinning jinney of the old pattern is also used; and the mortar and pestle are employed for beating big hominy.

Friday, October 20, 1865.

We rode out this morning before breakfast to the location of a small colony of Brazilians, employed by Major Gavião in cultivating his lands. Most of them own some slaves, and they are also employed upon the place. As the 134sole object in these arrangements seems to be for the coffee culture, the contract with the proprietor leaves them free to cultivate the intervening ground for themselves, and the consequence is, that their cribs are full of corn, while the proprietor has to buy his supply from the country around. They have hogs, also, in fine order, and every thing about their little settlement looks to be in a thriving state. In addition to this, the laborer is paid five cents per year for each coffee plant that he sets out and gets to growing, thus having a good cash income, independent of the supply of provisions. This principle works well for the contractor, but is certainly not favorable for the landowner, as he certainly should avail himself of some part, at least, of the productions of the land, during the period it is occupied by the contractor or colonist, as he is, in this instance.

I observed at the house of Major Gavião a negro man with an indolent ulcer of the hand, which he was treating with acid nitrate of mercury, in the absence of any physician. I thought this quite heroic domestic practice, yet it was evidently a proper application, and I indorsed his treatment.

The negroes here, as at other places, were observed to labor in ditching without their shirts; and though this strikes one strangely upon first seeing it, the negro evidently consults his own comfort, as the shirt is usually tied round the waist. So far as I have had an opportunity of examining the clothing of negroes, the men wear a substantial shirt and pants of coarse cotton, and it is rare that one has been seen with ragged clothes. The women usually wear lighter material, and it is not uncommon to see a female servant about a house with an old calico dress, which has doubtless been cast aside by the white women of the family.

I was particularly impressed here with the freedom which was allowed some negro children in coming into the room 135occupied by the family, and with the attention given them by the Major.

Having no children of his own, he seems to make pets of these little darkies. He has likewise a number of huge dogs, which are very fond of lying about the house, and he tolerates them at times, but at others makes a clearing out of every thing, and closes an open-work door, which serves as a barrier to their entrance.

After a late breakfast, the dashing Major accompanied us a short distance, and left us with a guide to show us the route to the fazenda of Senor Dom Rafael Aguiar Paes de Barros.

He and his fine-looking wife received us most courteously and treated us very kindly. Upon being informed that I wished to look at any lands in the neighborhood which might be for sale, the Dom supplied us with horses, and rode with us to see some lands near his place. The soil appeared to be of superior quality, and the surface was remarkably smooth and level for this country, but there is not such a supply of springs as would be desirable for the use of families, and the only stream available for machinery is of small capacity.

The lands are bounded upon one side by the Rio Jacaré, the margins of which are said to be very liable to chill and fever, and have not been cleared up for cultivation. There is not sufficient fall in any part of this stream adjacent to the land for establishing any kind of machinery.

There is, however, an immense salto or water-fall upon the river Chimbarro, which runs near one end of the territory, but belongs to another party, who manifests no wish to sell. This water-power might be used for machinery of any magnitude, and the location would be a good one for a cotton factory, to work up the crude material of the country, and sell the proceeds to the people within adjoining districts.

136The following are the tracts of land in the market:

João Baptista Lacenda 6,000 acres.

José Rodriguez 1,500 acres.

Donna Maria (Mai de Major Joaquim Roberto) 1,200 acres.

The first can be bought for about $5,000.

The second can be bought for about $3,000.

The last can be bought for about $2,500.

These lands lie in juxtaposition to each other, so that they would together form a fine large plantation, and one good settlement, or perhaps more could be secured. The average of the whole makes the price one dollar and twenty cents per acre, and I have seen no body of land presenting such favorable conditions for a fazenda, though not adapted to a number of small settlements.

This territory lies eight miles south of Araraquara, and a considerable proportion of the two last-named tracts have been at one time cleared and under cultivation. But it is evident that it was not materially impaired, and it is again covered with a growth of taquara (a species of cane) and small trees of various kinds, which would be much more readily cleared off than the original forest.

This land is said to have been planted seven years ago in corn and beans, for the purpose of fattening hogs to be driven to market; but this trade being no longer profitable, it was abandoned, and the land allowed to grow up as stated.

The altitude of this region renders it very pleasant for a residence, and yet its exemption from frost enables the coffee to be cultivated successfully.

Dom Barros has already a portion of land adjoining these lands planted in coffee, which looks to be thriving well, though not old enough to bear fruit. I saw upon his place corn-stalks, that indicated its adaptation to this important crop, and pumpkins of good size were also seen in the field amongst the corn. He cultivates the sugar-cane 137very successfully, and has a large mill, in which he is constantly working it, with a firm yield of sugar and rum. The molasses is very little made anywhere I have been, and yet when produced is of the very finest quality. It is not used as we use it, in connection with the substantials of a meal, but is confined to use with the dessert, and is a most delicious syrup.

If the water-power upon the Chimbarro can be secured, in connection with these lands, it then becomes a very desirable investment, and as Dom Barros brings the water for his machinery from this stream, through a race two miles long, it may be that a privilege could be had from the owner, though he may not sell the land.

After an excellent dinner, at which Senorha presided, much after the style of our southern ladies, we were supplied with a guide by Dom Barros, and came to the villa of Araraquara. Having a letter to Senor Manuel Francisco de Oliveira, we were kindly received and well provided for at his house. I was informed that a letter had been addressed to me by the municipal authorities of this place, inviting me to visit the district, and that the people throughout the country were very desirous that we should select a location amongst them. Several gentlemen called upon us, and among them the municipal Judge, to whom I had a letter of introduction—Senor Dom Andre Dias de Aguiar. This gentleman impressed me very favorably by his courteous manner and his intelligent expression of countenance, while he manifested quite an interest in the objects of my visit, and my personal gratification.

The villa of Araraquara is located upon a plateau, which affords ample scope for extension of the town; and there is a clear bold brook running on one side of it, which affords fine water for domestic purposes and for the use of all kinds of stock. The streets are laid off at right angles, with a church and an open space in front of it in the centre of the population. I observed that there was a jail opposite the 138church, and yet I was informed that it was not much in demand for criminals. The style of architecture is similar to the mud-built houses seen elsewhere, being nearly all of a single story, and consequently spread over a large area, when any considerable house-room is secured. The drinking water here is superior, and the climate very pleasant.

Saturday, October 21, 1865.

Senor Candido Mariano Barba, the government agent at this place, called upon us early this morning, and manifested a desire to aid me in any way it might be practicable.^[18]

It being arranged that we should go out to the fazenda of Senor Lenente Coronel Joaquim Lorenço Correa, several of the gentlemen of the villa rode out with us. Meeting the proprietor on the way, he joined us and conducted us to his extensive and well-arranged establishment, known as São Lorenço. On the way, we passed a beautiful cascade of several hundred feet in height, and then another near his place, which is also a fall of great elevation, but not containing so much water as the former. The lands adjacent to these water-falls are comparatively level, but drop down suddenly in a gorge, whose banks are precipitous for a considerable distance, as the stream descends. I observed this same thing on the premises of Dom Barros, and it is rather a striking peculiarity of the country.

The fazenda of Senor Joaquim is four miles from the villa, and passing in part through red campo land, the forest is entered within a mile of the residence, and the soil here is of superior quality. The best sugar-cane yet seen was observed on the roadside as we approached the residence, and I learned from the owner that it had been growing several years from the original roots. He finds that the cane produces 139here, satisfactorily, six years; and after that time it is customary to plant the ground anew.

This establishment belongs to the first class of the country, and the dwelling is located upon a gentle slope, with a paved terrace, elevated to correspond to the level of the house. The residence is very commodious, with a basement story, which adds greatly to convenience, and the general reception room is supplied with sofas and chairs, having cane seats, and of very neat workmanship. The usual plan of having the sleeping apartment opening into the parlor is found here also, and there is no ventilation excepting by this door. The outbuildings are well-arranged and of the most substantial construction, and the yard immediately around the house is inclosed with a fence, while outside of this there extends for half a mile on one side a most luxuriant grass-pasture.

At a short distance from the dwelling stands a grist-mill, saw-mill and sugar-mill, moved by water, which is brought in a race from an adjacent stream. The sugar-house is supplied with metallic cylinders to express the juice of the cane, and the quantity extracted gives a favorable idea of the richness of the growth of cane, while the syrup indicates by its taste a large proportion of saccharine matter. He has three large boilers of sheet copper placed in a furnace that is neat and substantial, while it works most efficiently. There are small troughs connecting these boilers with the large receiving-troughs, in which the syrup stands to crystallize, and the process of transforming the syrup is thus attended with little difficulty. After the sugar has formed, it is then placed in other receivers with perforations in the bottom, so that it drips and becomes dry.

The sugar is then submitted to a process of clarifying by covering it with a compost of clay and cow-dung, which seems to act favorably in rendering the superficial layers of sugar very fair, and indeed almost white. This is entirely new to me, and yet may have been resorted to in the sugarmaking 140regions of the United States without coming to my knowledge.

The drippings from the sugar are converted into rum, which is known here by the name of aqua-ardente, or cachaça, and this branch of the business is quite profitable, as a market is found in the country near at hand.

The sale, however, of most of the sugar made at this establishment, is readily effected in this and the adjoining districts, at the prices of Rio with addition of transportation; so that, though laboring under the apparent disadvantage of remoteness from any established market, there is really a very decided benefit in this location. He gets a higher price at his sugar-house than the manufacturers who ship to Rio or Santos can possibly get at those points, as his consumers must pay for the transportation on pack-mules, if they should go there to purchase. Moreover, I am strongly impressed with the conviction that the cane and the appliances used in this establishment, with the high-toned character of the proprietor, will furnish inducements to buyers that may not be found elsewhere. He produces annually for the market between eighty and ninety thousand pounds of sugar, for which he gets an average of seven and a half cents per pound. Let us make a calculation for eighty-five thousand pounds at seven and a half cents per pound, and it gives $6,375, from which deduct $1,375 for expenses, and we have five thousand dollars profit.

He employs only about fifteen hands, and raises besides all the corn, beans, and other provisions for his family, and also all the hogs which are required on his place. Every thing which can make life comfortable seems to be raised in the greatest abundance on this place, and he lives to a large extent within himself; but yet avails himself likewise of such importations as are requisite for success in working his fazenda, or for the comfort of his family. His family consists of seven daughters and five sons, and when one is married, or arrives at the age of twenty-one years, he gives this 141son or daughter three thousand dollars upon which to commence business. Four of his daughters are married, and two of his sons, while one of his sons being in the military service at the seat of war, leaves at home three daughters and two sons. The entire family excepting the older son at home, present a very robust and healthy aspect, and the constitutional stamina of the old gentleman and old lady are not surpassed in any country. The son at home, whose health suffered in the army, so that he was discharged from service, is now recovering his vigor, but has not the appearance of a good constitution like the rest of the family.

The party rode out in the afternoon to visit the coffee field (cafézar) of his son-in-law, Senor Francisco de Paula Coma e Silva. He has some twenty thousand trees of various ages, and those most advanced indicating good development, with a fair prospect for a yield. But he could give us no definite idea of the past crop.

We here regaled with oranges and bananas of the finest quality, and coffee was also handed at the house.

Sunday, October 22, 1865.

During the morning I was requested to prescribe for a little son of Senor Francisco, and as there was no medicine in the house suited to the case, we rode to the town to learn if iodine, iodide of potash, and syrup of sarsaparilla could be found at the apothecary shop.

All the articles fortunately were on hand, and the keeper of the shop promised to have the medicine ready to-morrow morning. After calling upon several parties in the villa, we were entertained with music on the accordeon by a dark-skinned gentleman, while a parrot was paraded upon the table and supposed to be marching in time to the music, of which, however, I could not have a full appreciation. As will be perceived, this was a Sunday exercise, and in the mean time our old friend, Senor Joaquim, went out to attend mass.

142After returning to São Lorenço, the camarada was sent to the villa for our baggage, which had been left behind the day previous.

In the afternoon I was summoned by Mr. Bennaton to join a party who were going out, and found they were preparing for a hunt. I was offered a gun, and the gentlemen of the family were very much surprised at my refusal to accept it, as they had previously understood that I was fond of shooting. Though I declined the gun, the Sabbath was violated by accompanying the huntsmen on horseback. Several shots were fired by different members of the party, at a species of partridge nearly as large as a chicken, but no game was secured, and a shower of rain induced a precipitate return to the house. I told them it was a judgment sent upon us for violating the Sabbath, and resolved not to be again lead into such a departure from my sense of duty. Fortunately our baggage had arrived and afforded us dry clothes.

Shortly after our return, there arrived two visitors from the villa, who were also quite wet, and had to avail themselves of a supply of dry clothes from our host and his son. One of these gentlemen was Senor Dom Aguiar, Municipal Judge, and the other was Senor Lenente Coronal Antonio Carlos de Arruda Botilho, who owns a large fazenda some thirty miles distant, at which he resides.

Having friends and business relations with this place, this latter gentleman is frequently in the villa of Araraquara, and is held in good repute by those residing in the neighborhood. With these people a ride of thirty miles is a small matter, as they frequently set out at or before daylight, and make the distance upon a good mule before breakfasting. From the lateness of the hour at which these gentlemen came, I suppose they expected to remain for the night, and now since they have changed their own clothes for others belonging to the family, there is no alternative. The social relations among people in this country who are on a basis 143of equality seems to be accompanied with great freedom of intercourse, and liberty in their deportment about the dwellings of each other, while nothing like rudeness, or want of proper personal respect, has attracted my attention.

While it is my purpose to record as far as practicable every thing which may illustrate the industrial resources of Brazil, it also appears to be proper that I should give such incidents as may serve to give an idea of the manners and customs of the people, and this must be done in some cases by implicating myself in scenes that do not comport with my views of propriety, as to-day.

Monday, October 23, 1865.

A letter from the President of the province of São Paulo being received by Mr. Bennaton, from which he inferred that General W. W. W. Wood, of Mississippi, needed his assistance on the way to this point, he proposed to return for the purpose of meeting him. I declined to accompany him, and told him it would suit me better to remain in this vicinity, for the purpose of examining such places as might be conveniently visited during his absence.

My old friend, Colonel Joaquim Lorenço, invited me to sojourn at his house, and kindly offered to aid me in looking around the country, or in any other matter that might be desired.

He authorized Mr. Bennaton to say to me that there is a very comfortable house upon an adjoining place to this, which he will cheerfully furnish for the use of my family, and that he will also supply them with provisions and all other necessaries for living, free of all cost, until some more satisfactory arrangement can be made for them, and invites me to bring them here should a purchase be made anywhere in this region.

I returned my most profound thanks for this generous offer, and felt truly that “a friend in need is a friend indeed.” As yet, however, I am unable to say whether circumstances 144will permit me to accept the proposition, though it is evidently tendered in good faith, and with the expectation that a location for my friends may be found in this vicinity. I rode out with my host to see the house and grounds offered for my family, and found every thing more inviting than most dwellings in this country, with abundant supply of water.

Mr. Bennaton having left, I find myself thrown upon my own resources in communicating with those around me, and though attended with much embarrassment and difficulty, it will serve greatly to advance my knowledge of the Portuguese language.

The apparent cheerfulness with which the old Colonel and other members of the family render me assistance is a great relief in my awkward efforts to use the few phrases I have learned. From time to time I have been studying the Portuguese grammar, but have the misfortune to be provided with a very badly-arranged and unsatisfactory edition that was given me by my friend, the Rev. A. L. Blackford, at São Paulo. It is by E. F. Granert, of Cleveland, Ohio, who resided for some years in Brazil, but certainly has not acquired the art of making a grammar to facilitate a knowledge of the language. I could have made considerable progress in learning the vocabulary on my voyage across the water, but regarding the pronunciation of prime consequence, in the first acquisition of words, I purposely deferred committing words or phrases to memory, until I could avail myself of the assistance of persons speaking the language, and thus get a correct pronunciation.

I am still impressed with the importance of this course, as none of the rules can enable the learner to get an accurate idea of the peculiarities of the spoken tongue.

A little son of Senor Joas de Almida Leite Morais, another son-in-law of my host, is at present suffering from an attack of cholera morbus at São Lorenço, and is under my treatment. A prescription has been written out, and 145sent to the apothecary at the villa, who filled it very satisfactorily, and all promises well.

Tuesday, October 24, 1865.

My little patient is entirely relieved by the treatment instituted on yesterday, and the entire household seem to be very much gratified at the result of prescription. As there are no physicians in this district, a few favorable cases would no doubt be a passport to the confidence of all who require medical aid. But I can’t entertain the thought of entering upon a country practice, however profitable it might prove. And if I locate in this region, it will be with a view to engage in agricultural operations. Should my friends from any cause abandon the thought of coming to Brazil, then I may locate in some city, and enter upon the practice of my profession.

I rode out with Colonel Joaquim to his field this morning, and got his ideas of the indications of good soil from the appearance of the earth, and the nature of the growth upon it. He places most confidence in the presence of the Pon d’Alho when it is very large, as it then indicates depth of soil, which nourishes the roots, and gives vigor to the tree. His lands are chiefly of the terra rocha order, and he agrees with others in considering this as best suited to coffee and sugar-cane, and also to the cultivation of corn. He thinks, however, that the yield of the cotton upon this rich land is not so favorable as upon a soil with some sand intermixed, which agrees with the views of others on this subject. His experience, however, in cultivating cotton, is limited to a small supply for home consumption, as his fixtures for treating the sugar render it better for him to continue in that business, and he could not find sale for cotton nearer than Santos. He uses the plough to prepare his land for planting the sugar-cane, and employs the tops of the sound and vigorous cane from which to grow his crop.

This seems to be the plan universally adopted here, instead 146of planting entire stalks, as is done in the lower parts of Georgia and Florida; and of course proves an item of great economy in planting a large area of ground in sugar-cane.

I observe, here, that rice is planted in upland, and without any regard to securing a moist place. The yield is fair, and the quality of the article very good, though not equal to Carolina rice. It is grown, to a greater or less extent, upon most of the fazendas I have visited, but simply for family consumption; while upon the coast, I am informed, there are large rice-plantations, that produce it for the market extensively.

In addition to other industrial enterprises, Senor Joaquim has a stock-farm in connection with the residence shown to me yesterday, and there has about twelve hundred head of cattle which are grown for the market, as well as to supply the wants of his own family. He has in that place a large tract of land, of which about ten thousand acres are in woodland, and twenty thousand acres in campo, furnishing ample range for his cattle. This has not been a matter of much concern with him, and the profits are considered as small in comparison to his other business. Yet, he thinks, with proper care, it might become valuable; and by combining the rearing of mules with that of cattle, it would make a very pretty department of industry for some of our Southerners who are fond of stock.

Wednesday, October 25, 1865.

My old friend gave me to understand this morning, that we would start in the afternoon to make a visit to one of his daughters, and thence to-morrow to examine some lands which had already been seen superficially in company with Dom Barros.

I had been guessing his meaning in most of the communications made to me, from the few words I could understand, but on this occasion there was no point caught in his first 147presentation of the matter, and upon asking him to repeat what he said, I managed to infer that it pertained to this trip, which had been contemplated. My very general reply, “Eston as suas ordeus,” (I am at your orders,) indicated my readiness to go whenever it suited him, and on asking him what time we should start, he indicated 2 o’clock P. M.

Accordingly his wife and three daughters joined us on horseback, and we rode eight miles to the house of his son-in-law, Senor Joaquim de Sampaio Peixoto. Here I met a cordial reception, and found plenty of oranges, with good cheer, and also comfortable quarters. I observed at this house a specimen of cattle with shorter and smaller horns than the stock usually seen in the country, and learned they were imported. The native cows do not make good milkers, being very large and coarse, and in common with the males having most enormous horns. They make good beef, and furnish large hides, but are not suited for the domestic purposes of a family. It is stated, indeed, that these immense oxen are not so serviceable as those of the smaller size which are found in some parts of the country.

The ladies mounted and dismounted their horses without assistance at starting and arriving.

Thursday, October 26, 1865.

All our party, accompanied by Senor Peixoto, set out immediately after breakfast upon horseback. While we stopped a few minutes to examine a new mill-dam on the way, we saw a small deer (viado) swimming down the stream, to make its escape from the dogs which had been pursuing it above.

Instead of taking to the bank, when it reached the dam, it plunged over the fall, and made its way down by running in the current, which was no longer deep enough to require it to swim. The dread of the pursuer kept it from going upon land, where it might be scented and followed.

The old Colonel went with the ladies directly to the residence 148of Dom Barros, while Senor Peixoto very kindly acted as guide for me in examining the lands. He took me through the most obscure paths, and to all desired parts of the territory included in the tracts of Lacerda, Rodrigues, and Roberto, lying near the Rio Jacaré.

My impressions of the quality of these lands were not materially changed by the inspection, but malarial indications were presented at several points on the Lacerda tract, apart from the fixed fact of the unwholesome atmosphere of the Jacaré river. The quantity of water suited for drinking purposes was found less than previously anticipated, and there is no stream upon either of the places suited for any kind of machinery. The prospect for a location upon these lands is therefore decidedly unfavorable, though the soil would yield good crops.

After dining with Dom Barros, our party rode back to São Lorenço, a distance of sixteen miles, without any apparent inconvenience to the ladies. The physical stamina of these women is equal to any thing.

Friday, October 27, 1865.

Having eaten a great variety of meats and fruits, with much exposure to the hot sun, I found myself suffering this morning with some derangement of the bowels, and asked my old friend if he had any brandy. As he had none, he gave me some port wine, but this did not relieve me; and he then gave me a mixture of aqua-ardente (rum) and polvilho (starch of the mandioca) with a little water and sugar. It was very strong with the rum and I took but one-half of the quantity provided. This acted favorably, and is doubtless well adapted to relieve the relaxation of the intestines resulting from improper diet in this climate.

The amount and quality of my food was changed for this day to suit my condition; and it seemed to be a source of much concern to the family that I did not partake of the many good things prepared for me. Indeed, each of the 149three meals was like a dinner in the variety of the articles, and it required the greatest circumspection to keep from eating too much.

I rode out to the fields again with the old Colonel, and thus had a little more latitude for practising my vocabulary of Portuguese; and after returning my time was devoted industriously to improving my facility in the use of the language. I read aloud some articles in the newspaper which had already been learned with the use of the dictionary, and some difficulties of construction were explained by the Colonel and his son-in-law. I have also resorted to reading in the Portuguese Testament, with the English at hand, so as to assist me in a proper translation, but this does not seem to improve me so much as the reading of the articles in the newspapers with my dictionary. The effort to understand the idiom is a good exercise.

Saturday, October 28, 1865.

Although I retired late last night, my sleep was disturbed by the deranged state of my system, and farther perhaps by the presence of a vagalume which had been secured under a glass in the room.

This singular lightning-bug is of the size of an ordinary beetle, and has two luminous spots of considerable brilliancy, corresponding to the position of the eyes. It imparts sufficient light to read when held near the printed page; and the time by a watch is told with great facility when it is held near the face.

The brother of Senor Joaquim Lorenço, Senor Francisco Correa de Arruda,^[19] spent the night with us, and impressed 150me very favorably as a man of substantial worth and good sense.

After breakfast I joined the old Colonel in a ride of six miles to the farm of Senor Joaquim Correa da Assumpsão, where the best cotton was seen growing that has been encountered in my tour. It had borne a crop last season amounting to 2453 pounds in the seed per acre, with a prospect of an increased yield this year after cutting off the stalks. The limbs have already sprouted out to some distance, and are spreading in such form as to make a good stalk; and the squares, blooms, and forming bolls indicate a most excellent result. This land has not been ploughed at any time, and would certainly be improved by cultivation with the plough.

While we were at the house of Senor Assumpsão, a messenger came to notify the old Colonel of the arrival of General Wood and party at the villa of Araraquara. We rode into the villa and found them in charge of some of the citizens. All took breakfast with Dom Andre Dias da Aguinar, and as it was nearly 12 o’clock, they evidently relished his abundant supplies after a ride of sixteen miles.

Upon asking General Wood to give me a memoranda of the names of those constituting his party, the following list was written and handed to me:

General William Wallace W. Wood, lawyer and editor, of Mississippi, representing seven States.

Dr. James H. Warne, surgeon and physician, from Tennessee.

Robert L. Brown, planter, Alabama.

Aids.—W. C. Kernan, of Florida, architect and builder; Dr. J. P. Wesson, Tennessee, dentist and machinist.

Government Aids.—Major Ernest Street, civil engineer, São Paulo; Henry Snell, interpreter, Campinas.

Three servants and two mule-tenders; four pack-mules.

Mr. Bennaton failed to meet the General’s party on 151the road, but returned and joined them at the villa this morning.

The entire cavalcade, accompanied by a number of gentlemen from the villa, repaired to São Lorenço, with the proprietor, and enjoyed a most bountiful and well prepared dinner at 4 o’clock P. M.

I had been introduced to General Wood in New Orleans early in the month of July, and understood from him then that he was delegated to come to Brazil as the representative of five hundred families in Mississippi, but as he was delayed in starting, it seemed to me best that my movements should not be retarded for the sake of his company, and I left the city for New York on the 12th of the month. As I sailed prior to his arrival, there was no further communication between us until our meeting here, and it is now found that his commission has been extended so as to include seven States.

One of his party, Mr. Kernan, brought a letter of introduction to me from Dr. R. P. Daniel, of Florida, in which he remarks: “I was myself, in connection with another gentleman from Florida, on my way to Brazil to locate a colony; circumstances have delayed us so much beyond the time we had proposed that, considering the difference in seasons and other matters, we have concluded to return home and wait until next spring before going on. I regret this delay very much; meantime, will you not let me hear from you at your convenience?”

In the multiplicity of my engagements, it may not be in my power to make such a communication to Dr. Daniel as would be desirable, and the publication of this record will give him and others who have desired information most of the facts in my possession connected with this country.

Sunday, October 29, 1865.

The large number of guests were all comfortably provided with bedding at São Lorenço, and rose this morning 152refreshed, and responded promptly to the call for breakfast, doing ample justice to the supplies.

It was intimated to me that Senor Francisco desired me to examine and prescribe for his wife, a daughter of our host; and Mr. Bennaton rode over with us and interpreted my questions and her answers, so that a full history of the case was received. It was a stomatitis of two months standing; and finding a Portuguese medical formulary at São Lorenço I was enabled to make out a regular recipe, which was sent to the druggist in the villa.

Shortly after our return a delegation arrived, representing the villa and county of Araraquara, who presented addresses in Portuguese to General Wood and myself. Our replies were, of course, written in English, but were rendered into Portuguese by Mr. Bennaton, and presented to the representatives, who were in attendance.

A translation of the address to me, and my answer, will be given here, in fulfilment of the request contained in their communication:

“Doctor Gaston:—It is not only the commission under which you are acting, and by the fulfilment of which Brazil, developing her immense resources, hopes to attain in a short time to that degree of importance which providence has designed, that causes the municipal common council of this village, interpreting faithfully the sentiments of their citizens, to come by the delegation which you have before you, and express the desire that you may find what you seek; and thus, that your worthy fellow-citizens—our brothers of the American Union—may adopt our country for their country. It is likewise the sentiment of sympathy, doctor, which your manners and education have induced on the part of all who have had intercourse with you.

“Remain then, doctor, amongst us, as also your friends, that you may succeed in obtaining lands, which will be suitable 153for your energetic farmers and mechanics; and rest assured that we will receive you as brothers receive brothers.

“In this form we ask you to make known to them the sentiments which animate us.