HUNTING A HOME IN BRAZIL. (continued 6)

The other articles which were planted, corn, beans, and sweet potatoes, were growing under great disadvantages, but gave signs of sufficient fertility in the soil to warrant better results. Upon inquiry as to the growth of cotton, we were shown two stalks that had sprung up among the brush, which gave very little promise of a yield, and no inference could be drawn from such a specimen.

250Some coffee trees of three years growth were seen upon this ground, but their appearance was unfavorable, and it is most likely this crop would prove unprofitable in this sea-coast region.

The soil of the serra being mixed with that of the flat land in this particular locality, gives better results than could be obtained from either taken separately, and it would doubtless make a good return for labor bestowed in transferring soil from these slopes to the damp flat land below.

It is due to the man João and his two sisters, to state that they were neat and clean in their dress, and presented rather more of a genteel appearance than is seen among the lower class of people in this country. With their decent bearing, it was a matter of surprise that no more skill or industry was manifested in the culture of the small piece of land which was planted.

We got one of these women to prepare coffee for us, and with the remnant of our cold victuals made a very respectable breakfast. Some of the party had partaken so freely of sugar-cane, that it became a subject of discussion as to the bill for damages that might be brought against the consumers of the products of this man’s farm.

After descending two miles further, we stopped at a farm of Senor Ferreira, where there is a building for a residence, including the machinery for a rice-mill. Here we saw corn growing tolerably well, and also rice and sugar-cane of fair quality; but the cultivation of the land showed but little more care than at the other place. It is evident that this property, which he desires to sell, has induced him to confine his arrangements to an examination of the few points worthy of notice along this river. But we saw enough here to convince us that the country is not adapted to our purposes.

Mr. Jackson bought at this house two otter skins for fifty cents each, the boy declining to take the price until we got some distance from the house, when he came running after us with the skins, asking for the money.

251In going down the river several shots were fired with pistols at water-birds, a ligarto, &c., but there was no execution done by any of the party.

At one point on the margin of the river we saw several parties preparing to embark in canoes, with stores of various kinds, intended to serve them in visiting the villa during the approaching festival.

Following after us were two canoes, in each of which a woman was assisting to paddle while standing up, and seemed to be accustomed to this kind of service. Already a number of people from the surrounding country have arrived with their supplies, bringing even their fuel in the canoes, and they live in freedom from all restraint, after camp style, during their sojourn at the place. These festas are religious ceremonies, without much show of solemnity, in which mass is said, and is followed by sky-rockets and fire-works of various kinds. Then comes the banquet by the festeiro, and such other festivities as the occasion may suggest, or the people desire for recreation.

After reaching the landing at Conceicão we assisted in drawing the huge canoe from the water upon rollers of wood, and thus taking it upon the beach beyond the ordinary rise of the water. Here lay quite a number of similar vessels of these people awaiting their further movements upon the water.

We brought down with us a supply of the palmetto, which is prepared by stripping off the outer layer, until the central tender and white stem alone remains. This is then chipped off from the end by a knife, and boiled or stewed with a little fresh meat, and seasoned with pepper and salt, making one of the best vegetables I have eaten in Brazil. The portion used is about a yard long, presenting a green exterior, and found at the top of the trunk of the palmetto, (a species of palm,) with the leaves spreading out at its upper extremity. There are the sweet and bitter, of which the latter is particularly good for the stomach.

252Thursday, December 7, 1865.

It being understood that the cart was to be ready for us to start upon our return at six o’clock this morning, we rose and got a cup of coffee shortly after five o’clock a. m. But, on repairing to the cart, it was found that the mules were not even caught from the open common in which they had been grazing, and that it would be necessary to find them before they could be harnessed for the trip.

As Senor Ferreira did not make his appearance, we sent a messenger for him, and in the mean time, the head man of the trio who paddled the canoe up the river presented his account. He was informed that this would be settled, with any other claims which might be rendered, through Senor Urcezino Antonio Ferreira, for services received by our party during this trip.

Up to this time, we had no means of knowing our true relations to this personage, and were doubtful whether to consider ourselves the guests of a gentleman who had taken charge of us at the request of his friend the vicar at Santos, or were to regard this man as simply a business agent to procure what might be required on our account.

This question was summarily solved by the presentation of an account, by him, for all accommodations afforded us, as follows:

Carriage from Santos to São Vincente $4 00

Passage in canoes from São Vincente 2 00

Eating breakfast at São Vincente 2 00

Lunch and porterage on the way 3 00

Boating up and down river 5 00

Eating at Conceicão 5 00

Transportation on the beach 20 00

$41 00^[24]

253In addition to this, the servants at the house were paid two dollars and fifty cents for their attention; and thus it is hoped and believed that all obligations are cancelled to this Senor Urcezino Antonio Ferreira, of Conceicão.

It is proper to remark, that the cart and mules used for our transportation on the beach were the property of this individual, and that the turn out was kept for the purpose of making money out of the passengers on this route along the beach.

Colonel Albuquerque, having arrived during the night, called to see us while awaiting the slow movements of our postilion; and I was pleased to find that he spoke some English, as did each of his three sons, who had gone a voyage on the Onward, with Captain Clark, who married their sister. The Colonel, thinking of our needs during the day, sent us a box containing a chicken, some Dutch cheese, biscuits, grapes, and a bottle of excellent port wine, which afforded a good repast on the beach. Though our acquaintance was slight, and he was merely sojourning here temporarily with his family, yet he extended that consideration to us which has characterized the bearing of all Brazilian gentlemen heretofore.

The Catholic priest had called to see us at our quarters, and gave us a passing call this morning, when proceeding on some professional duty in the vicinity of our rendezvous.

There is a large church besides the convent in this place. The buildings are chiefly in one straight row, and a few for a short distance on the opposite side, with a sorry and woe-be-gone population not exceeding twenty-five or thirty families, doing but little business.

The mules being at length in readiness we made a start 254with a team of four at 9 o’clock A. M., but only proceeded a short distance when the double-tree in front was broken, and it became necessary to proceed with but three mules. On reaching the beach the lead mule became unmanageable and ran into the sea, taking the others and cart so far that upon the return of the waves from the tide we were likely to go afloat, thus facilitating our transportation rather more than was desirable.

This trouble was corrected for the future by placing a man, who accompanied the driver, astride of the front mule, but the great difficulty of slow movement was not so easily overcome, though he was supplied with a pair of our spurs, and both these drivers plied the rod most vigorously upon the animals.

I counted the number of blows inflicted upon one of these beasts within five minutes at two different periods, and they averaged ten to the minute; which for five hours, the term of the trip, would make the round sum of three thousand lashes received by this mule.

Our postilions were German sailors and both spoke some English, so that we could communicate with them. After an interruption in our voyage by some derangement of the rigging, they both got into position for advancing, and Alberta Deyer, who was on the driver’s seat, called out to Lewis Thompson, who rode the front mule, “Now take your course south by half west, and make sail—vamos.” With these two high-pressure oscillating engines we made about three knots an hour; and for a time all of us were quite amused at the extraordinary proceedings of these fellows, but eventually it became a most serious matter, and nothing could urge our lazy and jaded beasts out of a walk. I remonstrated with the drivers not to inflict further punishment upon the animals, as the blood was already to be seen in various parts, not only from the spurs but from the heavy blows of the poles used by these athletic sons of the ocean.

At length we reached the point where the road turns 255from the beach, and it was questionable whether the mules could go any further; but it continued to rain, and it was desirable to remain under cover as long as any progress could be made in the cart.

We had gone however a very short distance when some mismanagement of our helmsman brought the wheels on one side almost into a very deep ditch, and the mule next to the ditch, with the instinct of self-preservation, which is characteristic of that animal, leaped with its fore feet over the tongue. There was imminent danger of being upset, and all hurried out, with our baggage in our hands, determined to proceed on foot. A bottle of rum had been got on the way, to counteract the soaking rain upon the drivers, and giving them another drink they were left to exercise their sailors’ ingenuity to avert shipwreck of their craft.

Walking nearly three miles we crossed the Bertioga again in a canoe, and upon reaching São Vincente^[25] hired horses for one dollar and a half each, to ride eight miles, into Santos. It was very dark, and some of the road very rough, but all got through safely.

Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether stopped at the hotel, while I assisted Mr. Jackson in taking the horses to a pasture at Mr. Wright’s; and getting supper we congratulated ourselves that the trip to Conceicão was ended.

Friday, December 8, 1865.

Having spent the night with my friend Wright, I arose early and went to the Hotel Milan, where my comrades were quartered, finding Senor Street had returned from São Paulo. My telegram was received by him, but he stated 256that it would be impracticable for him to proceed through the country, and that Mr. N. Bennaton had gone to Rio de Janeiro, with the expectation of returning on the 11th inst. A letter was found here from him, proposing that we wait until he could join us, to make the tour from São Paulo through the country. But in view of all the facts we concluded to avail ourselves of the boat expected daily to proceed to Cananea; and after examining the lands adjacent to the Ribeira de Ignape, to return to this point, and go thence to São Paulo, to make the trip to the country lying between the Tieté river and the serra to the eastward.

We made a reconnoissance this morning of a lot of land in the city belonging to Commendador Ferreira, which he proposes to sell. It extends from the water at the lime-factory, in a solid oblong body, lying between two streets.

The measurement made by stepping was five hundred and fifty (550) yards in length and three hundred and fifteen (315) yards in breadth; with a portion of irregular shape not measured, extending to the water. For this it is understood that his price is ten thousand (10,000) dollars.

There is another portion of vacant land belonging to the same gentleman located between that described and the water street on the front of the city.

This measures four hundred (400) yards in length, two hundred and thirty (230) yards wide at one end, and one hundred (100) yards or thereabouts in width, at the other end. The breadth corresponds very nearly to the greater measurement through half of the lot, and then slopes to that of the smaller, making it somewhat irregular in shape. This has a water front with a street, which is bounded by a rock wall as a barrier to the tide, and here is afforded very desirable sites for building.

Should he be willing to include this with the sale of the other, it would make a very valuable property for those who may wish a city investment.

That Santos will improve greatly in a few years is confidently 257anticipated, and lands within the city limits, such as these, must increase in value.

Mr. Wright accompanied us in visiting the lime-factory already mentioned as located at the edge of the water at the northern portion of the city; in which the shells and deposits of a calcareous nature from the island are worked up into a beautiful white lime. There is a small steam-engine for working the ventilating apparatus, which acts upon the furnace, and the fuel being placed beneath the mass of materials a heat is generated which transforms the shell into the gray crude lime.

After this process is completed, the mass is removed to the open chamber of the building, and parcel by parcel is sprinkled with water and placed in a pile, which developes warmth so great that the hand cannot bear it, thus producing the lime in ordinary use under the name of slacked lime. It presents a fine aspect, with all the other indications of a good quality of this article. There is no limestone near this place, and hence the shell is made available for lime.

We also visited the tannery located in the suburbs of the city near the margin of the coast on the north. It is by no means so neat as the one described in Rio de Janeiro, and the want of any systematic disposition of the refuse parts of the hides leaves them to create a stench about the place which attracts a number of buzzards.

The articles used chiefly for astringents in the tanning process are the same as observed in Rio; the leaf and bark of the manque manse and the manque bravo, which grow promiscuously over the extensive tidewater lowlands near this city. There is in connection with this tannery a rude lime-factory, which produces from the burning of shell the lime required for use at this place.

In examining the specimens of sole leather that were piled up under an open shed, the process of tanning seemed to be very thorough; and though there is not that care 258and attention bestowed which would insure the best results, yet this business has proved profitable to the proprietor. He has a small steamboat which is used for bringing in his materials for tanning, his raw-hides from the city, and in delivering his leather for shipment, or any other service connected with his operations. This diminutive craft makes regular trips also to Cubitão, connecting with the diligence line to São Paulo; and is frequently hired for excursions, thus making a nice little income, besides serving all the purposes of transportation for the tannery.

Mr. Wright tried to procure this small steamer for our party to visit Perique to-morrow, but found that it was engaged, and that it could not take us until Sunday.

Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether were invited by Mr. Wright to dine at his house to-day, it being the birthday of his elder son, Billy. His father-in-law, mother-in-law, and sister-in-law were also present on the occasion; and we were all favorably impressed and very much pleased with the performance on the piano by Mrs. Wright and her sister. Most of our Southern songs are played by Mrs. Wright, but really there are so few of them in keeping with the result of our struggle, that we feel but little interest in hearing them now.

In going out upon the street after dark with Mr. Wright, we observed there were some exercises at the Roman Catholic church; and upon entering, we found that a number of persons, principally females, were kneeling for mass; while vocal and instrumental music added interest to the scene. It was a day of some festival.

As we returned we met on the pavement at the entrance of a house Senor Manoel Pinto Soares; and soon afterwards his wife Donna Flora came down prepared for a walk. As they were going in the same direction with us, Mr. Wright devolved it upon me to escort the lady, and upon going forward with her, Senor Manoel suggested that 259she take my arm, whereupon I tendered her this assistance, which was accepted by her.

Though I could command but a meagre supply of the Portuguese language for conversation, I arranged my words so as to be understood, and her remarks were also comprehended, so that there was but little embarrassment. My observation has now satisfied me that ladies in refined society receive the same kind of attention from gentlemen as is customary with us.

Saturday, December 9, 1865.

Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether spent the night with me at Mr. Wright’s, and a cup of coffee being served to us very early we set out before 6 o’clock to the canoe of Senor Antonio Franco in company with Senor Street, for a trip across the water.

Mr. Wright’s double-barrelled fine English gun was taken along by the Major, and he had an opportunity of shooting at an alligator, (jacaré,) but it made its escape into the water.

Upon approaching the site of Senor Bastos, the canoe entered a sort of canal leading up into the land, and we then disembarked and walked a few hundred yards over a level, low, marshy plain to the house. Rice was seen upon one side presenting a healthy aspect; while on the other was a garden-spot that has received more than the usual attention, yet the vegetables did not look flourishing.

Vegetables do not usually grow well with us in any kind of soil without some artificial stimulus; and the art of manuring is almost unknown to these people, so that it is rare to see good vegetables.

The sugar-cane was also growing at a short distance from our path, but is a small variety with short joints, having a red or purple aspect, that is cultivated only for cachaça, (rum.) I infer from the specimen seen that the land has not the requisite fertility to produce the best cane.

260The house upon this place is a large one-story building, having the rice and sugar apparatus under the same roof, worked by water-power. Most of the territory is mountainous and of little fertility; but the flat lands with proper management might be rendered productive and profitable.

Sunday, December 10, 1865.

I acquiesced in the arrangement for taking a voyage in the steamer to-day, though it was the Sabbath.

We visited the extensive establishment known here as Perique, in company with the proprietor, Senor Valencia, some twenty miles distant from the city of Santos.

The houses and grounds have been recently overhauled and renovated, presenting an attractive combination of extensive buildings, with a beautiful beach and delightful sea-breeze. The dwelling has eighteen rooms, besides a large dining-saloon and ample corridors, presenting an air of comfort that is rarely met with anywhere. There are also outhouses suited for the quarters of laborers and for all other purposes required on a fazenda.

We saw a portion of the land that would be well adapted to the cultivation of any of the staples, but this was not of large extent; and a great portion of it is low and marshy, so as not to suit any thing but rice. The entire territory is represented as containing sixteen square miles, and I should not think that more than two square miles is sufficiently fertile to repay for cultivation, a part being unfitted for use by reason of the serras and a part by the marsh.

This place and its present proprietor have been rendered somewhat famous by a hostile collision on his part with the English marines under Captain Croft, in 1850; who landed here under orders to suppress the slave-trade conducted through this port of entry.

Senor Valencia collected thirty-seven negroes and thirteen whites, with guns, and after being fired upon, they 261poured a volley into the ranks of the marines, which caused them to return to their vessel. He states that this body of troops had previously gone to another improved place on this land and burned several houses; and that he supposed it to be their purpose to burn these large buildings on the beach. He determined to resist their further destruction of his property, and secreting this force on the route by which he supposed the marines would approach the house, an elevated position was taken by him where he could watch their movements.

It was understood by his men that, upon a signal from him with a cow-horn, they were to use their weapons against the invaders. As the marines approached their position, one of the negroes becoming curious to see what was going on, rose up to look and was immediately shot in the head by the marines; whereupon, a blast from the horn induced them to return the fire promptly and with effect. One man was known to have been killed, and the signs of blood upon the spot and along the line of retreat gave evidence of the fire of his domestic guard.

Senor Valencia was subsequently demanded by the English government, and had to leave the country to avoid capture. He has spent most of the time since in Montevideo, until his interests there being ruined by the operations of the war with Paraguay, induced him to apply to the Emperor of Brazil for permission to return. He came back in June of this year, finding every thing about this place in disorder, and has endeavored to bring it again in workings condition with a view to dispose of it. It affords fine facilities for fishing, and might be made profitable in supplying the Santos market.

Monday, December 11, 1865.

We visited the factory of brick and tile on the main land beyond the bay, two miles distant from the city. It is the most complete, in all appliances, which I have seen anywhere, 262having a steam-engine to work up the mortar preparatory to moulding, and having a patent compressing apparatus that gives a neat smooth surface to the brick while it imparts solidity and firmness to the entire mass. The furnaces are constructed of stone and faced with fireproof brick, having a general finish which is rarely seen in such establishments.

I was particularly impressed with the simplicity of the tile-making. The mortar was first spread upon a flat board by the hand of a stout negro fellow, and then another passed a scraper over this, to remove the superfluous layer, when a third turned it upon the convex mould which gives it the proper shape, and bears it to a shelf, upon which it remains until sufficiently dry to be put into the furnace for the action of the fire.

In addition to the above-named articles there are also manufactured here various household wares, such as water tanks, or jars of very large size for keeping in public or private houses, earthen bottles shaped like demijohns, bowls, stew-pans, and which are used in place of metal vessels very generally.

The material used is a combination of the clay taken from the hillside with the mud of the low land, and while neither separately would be well adapted to the purpose, this mixture makes an excellent mortar for moulding and burning. There is not a large quantity of brick or tile on hand, but some of all the varieties of style and size, showing the capacity of the establishment to meet any demand.

Upon inquiring the price of the brick I was told that for the smaller size, nine inches by three inches, the cost was twenty-five dollars per thousand; for the larger, twelve inches by four inches, thirty dollars per thousand; and for flooring brick ten inches square, fifty dollars per thousand. The last-named is a broad, square, thin tile brick with a figure impressed upon it, which is decorative in fitting up the basement of houses or paving fancy walks in a yard or open 263court. It is not very likely that the above prices will encourage the builders of houses to change from their old style of mud walls; and really if some of our people, who know how to manufacture brick upon an economical scale, would come here and enter largely into the business, it must prove very profitable to them, while it would be a great advantage to those erecting houses in Santos.

The compressing machines are of English make, under the patent of Clayton & Co., and are worked by hand. The steam-engine for working up the mortar is from the works of Maler & Co., located at Rio de Janeiro.

There is a canal connecting the factory with the bay which greatly facilitates transportation. A tank or well in the yard under shelter affords a supply of water for mixing the mortar, while there is a fountain of pure and cool water coming from the mountain side through a pipe into a large marble receiver in the open air.

Captain Buhlaw arrived in the city to-day from Cananea, and represents the lands of superior quality, while the transportation by water is available on all sides of the territory. He states that the soil is dark and the trees are large, without much undergrowth of shrubbery.

Tuesday, December 12, 1865.

Upon the arrival of the Santa Maria from Rio de Janeiro I went aboard with Captain Balbi, who invited me to take a seat in his boat, and found Mr. Bennaton there with instructions from the Minister of Agriculture to accompany us on our tour from São Paulo across the country. He stated that he could go now, and might not be able to accompany us if we delayed to make the trip to Cananea by water. I asked him if he thought it would be practicable to reach the country lying upon the tributaries of the Ribeira de Ignape and belonging to Cananea by going across from São Paulo upon mules; when he gave it as his opinion that 264we could make the trip, and said that he would advise us to adopt that course.

As this concurred with the view I had when the telegram was sent to Senor Street at São Paulo, and the boat upon which we expected to proceed might be still further delayed, I advised Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether that it would be better to pursue the course above indicated. It was accordingly arranged that Mr. Bennaton would go on to São Paulo to-day and that we should go to-morrow, it being understood with Senor Street that we would meet him at Xiririca, on the Ribeira de Ignape, so that he might assist us in the examination of the country. As Senor Street had already gone to the trouble to arrange for our visit by steamer, he was not satisfied that we should abandon that plan, but with the advice of Mr. Bennaton in favor of the other course, it was adopted.

Our baggage was sent by the transportation wagon of the diligence line forthwith, and we were notified that seats would be provided for us on a train of cars going out this afternoon to Moije station, where the cars stop for the night.

Mr. Henderson, the gentlemanly superintendent, gave us a pass over the road free of charge, and we were informed that the same would be extended on returning. We found a number of officials connected with the road on the train with us; also my friend, Mr. D. H. Sampson, and the Rev. A. G. Simonton, brother-in-law of Rev. A. L. Blackford.

After a ride of twelve miles we stopped at a public house kept by a German, who gave us an excellent dinner, with all the varieties of drinks usual in the city hotels.

Beds were spread upon the floor for the accommodation of our party, and we found every thing very comfortable.

We found here upon arrival Senor Martino, with a friend connected with the law school in São Paulo. They had come down with their guns and dogs, expecting to have a hunt in this vicinity; but it has been raining so constantly 265as to prevent the sport. Both of these gentlemen have been students of law for more than the usual term, but their fondness for the woods with their dogs and guns has taken more of their attention than their books. Senor Martino has now, however, graduated, and has consequently the title of Dom, as every one here has who is permitted to practise law. He has promised to send me a supply of indigo seed from Minas, where he resides and this plant is grown extensively.

Wednesday, December 13, 1865.

After breakfasting some of our party repaired to the clear, cold stream, where a dam had been thrown up, and enjoyed a plunge bath, which was quite bracing and salutary.

We were conveyed from the station to the foot of the serra in a light open car, by a horse. We went in a rapid trot over the smooth parts of the road, but suddenly we were notified that the engine was meeting us, when our trella was stopped, and the horse disengaged so as to run it back and avoid a collision. The engine, however, stopped before reaching us, and we proceeded to the workshop on foot.

The entire party were next carried up the steep grade on the serra, of one foot ascent in every ten feet, for one mile and a quarter, by the action of a stationary engine of one hundred and sixty horse-power. We then walked a similar distance, a land-slide having interrupted the running of the inclined plane. Again we were drawn up the third section, and walked up the fourth, where the track was torn away by the sliding of the earth.

Much has been done here to overcome the natural difficulties presented by this serra, but much more has yet to be done before any reliance can be placed upon this line for transportation of freight, or as a highway of travel for passengers. Not only must the earth or stone upon which the 266track rests be secured against yielding, but the sides of the cuts in the serra must not be liable to slide, and thus endanger the passage of trains, or obstruct the road at various points.

There is a double track for one-half of the distance upon each of the four inclined planes, and a balance car runs down at one end of the huge wire cable, while the train is drawn up at the other extremity.

By sundry turns of this cable around the rims of large metal wheels connected with the stationary engines, the friction and resistance is such as to obviate slipping of the wire cable. This entire force is brought to bear upon the freighted train in its ascent, while the descending balance car keeps the cable tight, and exerts some influence upon the ascending train of cars.

At each of the four stations one of these immense engines, having five capacious and strong boilers, exerts its power in bringing up the trains. But all this seems now very much like the lever of Archimedes, with which he proposed to move the world if he could but secure a fulcrum. The basis of efficient operation for the road being the embankment upon which the track rests, it is indispensable that some plan shall be adopted to render it secure, or the tremendous power of the machinery can be of no avail.

At the close of our last walk we reached the level where the locomotive is sufficient to move the train, and after a lunch of cheese, bread and beer at a vende, (retail shop,) we took our seats in an open car and whirled along at a rapid rate over the road to São Paulo.

The use of iron stools of a concavo-convex shape as supports for the rail, instead of wooden cross-ties, is adopted here, but an accident from the breaking of one leads to the inference that they are unsafe.

There was one point upon the track at which two cars, loaded with dirt, discharged their cargo with remarkable despatch, by dropping the sides, that were attached by 267hinges, and then the negroes used their shovels to conclude the work.

We had on the train with us Mr. J. J. Auburtin, the general superintendent of the road; Mr. Henderson, superintendent of the working operations; Mr. Fox, president engineer; Mr. Hutchins, secretary to chief engineer; and Mr. Jesters, traffic agent. All the business offices are in the city of São Paulo, and the chief work-shops are located there also. The chief engineer of the company resides in England, and has his representative here looking after the business.

Upon reaching the Hotel da Europa, we met Mr. Bennaton, who informed us that arrangements were progressing for our trip; but it is most likely we may be detained several days, and we must practise that Brazilian virtue, patience.

Calling upon Mr. Blackford and lady during the evening, I found their house filled with ministers of the gospel, who are here with a view to organize a Presbytery, to exercise discipline among those who have become members of the Presbyterian church in this section, and to ordain a converted Catholic priest, who has been assisting in missionary work.

While the people here profess to be tolerant of other religions, some of the former enactments in regard to seats in the councils of state, and in regard to marriage, are calculated to discourage emigration, but it is expected that these things may be changed ere long.

Thursday, December 14, 1865.

The indications of delay here are evident, from all that can be learned to-day, and we feel that suspense which is natural to those earnestly desiring to accomplish an object.

I accompanied Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether to purchase an outfit of water-proof overcoats and leggins, which 268cost each of them twenty-two dollars and fifty cents, but they are now well provided against the rainy season.

This period of almost constant rain is now upon us, and lasts usually two or three months in this latitude. During the other nine months of the year, rain falls but seldom in any considerable quantity, and during June, July, and August, is regarded the dry season of the year. These being the coolest months, the relations of the wet and dry season to temperature differs from what is observed in the United States. The winter with us is usually the period of most rain; but there is not so marked a difference, as is remarked in Brazil, between the rainy and dry seasons of the year. I anticipate less inconvenience in travelling from the rain than would be experienced from the continuous hot sun during the day; and learning that the mornings are for the most part free from rain, we can do most of our riding early in the day.

A most important item to the traveller is to have along with him, at all times, a change of under-clothing, and for this object, a water-proof valise or satchel is very convenient. In this, his comb, tooth-brush, and a pair of slippers can also be kept at hand, though he may be temporarily separated from his baggage.

Friday, December 15, 1865.

Mr. Bennaton now thinks that matters will be arranged so that we can leave day after to-morrow, but while we do not wish to retard any of the preparations, it is not expected that we will leave until Monday. None of us approve of travelling on the Sabbath, when it can be avoided.

Mr. Blackford called to see us this evening, and remonstrated warmly against Sunday travelling, but more especially against setting out on a business tour upon the Sabbath, when we could so easily wait for another day. He insisted that no good would come of business done on 269the Sabbath, and said if we did not expect to observe the sanctity of the Sabbath in this country, we had better return at once to our families, as he felt assured they would not prosper here, without keeping the Sabbath day holy to the Lord, and observing it as a day of rest from labor.

Meeting Dom Prates upon the street this afternoon, he informed me that he has a body of land on the Ribeira de Ignape, of which every alternate lot will be given to families who will locate on them.

Saturday, December 16, 1865.

Having arranged to meet Dom Bernardo Gavião this morning, we proceeded to his office, with Mr. Bennaton as interpreter. Upon inquiring the terms upon which he would dispose of the whole, or a part of the extensive territory of Cambuy, he stated that he would take one hundred and twenty-five thousand ($125,000) dollars for the entire property. Estimating it at twelve square leagues, the cost will be something over one ($1) dollar per acre, and believing that there is not over four square leagues which is well adapted to cultivation, it puts the price over three dollars an acre for the productive land. He couples the proposition with an offer to hire two hundred and forty negroes for a series of years, at the annual rate of twelve thousand five hundred ($12,500) dollars; the first payment to be made at the end of the second year, and without interest, but subsequent payments at the close of each year. He informs us that there are one hundred and twenty men, ninety women, and thirty children. It will be noted that the proportion of men is large to that of the women, and the proportion of children very small, which is to be observed in most gangs of negroes in Brazil; the former owing to larger importations of males from Africa, and the latter from want of proper care of women and their offspring. These negroes are to be fed, clothed, and receive medical treatment, at the expense of the party employing 270them; while the owner loses the time of disability for labor, by running away, or, in the event of death, a pro rata reduction being made.

Sunday, December 17, 1865.

Desiring some definite information in regard to the missionary operations of the Presbyterian church in Brazil, the following was handed to me, for such use as I might think proper.

São Paulo, 16 December, 1865.

Dr. Gaston:

Dear Friend:—In satisfying your request for information in regard to our missionary work in Brazil, I am compelled to-day to be very brief.

In August of 1859, the Rev. A. G. Simonton arrived in Rio de Janeiro. In July of 1860, myself and wife arrived. In May, 1861, Mr. Simonton began preaching in Portuguese to three or four persons. The number of hearers slowly increased the first year to twenty-five or thirty.

In December of 1861, the Rev. F. J. C. Schneider arrived in Rio de Janeiro, destined to labor among the German colonists of this province. He resides in Rio Claro, (São João de,) and has devoted himself to this special work, amid many discouragements, and seeing but little fruit as yet of his labors.

In January of 1862, a church was organized in Rio de Janeiro, when one American and one Portuguese were received on profession, as the first fruits of our mission. Our church there now numbers forty-nine members, nearly all natives and Portuguese, and converts from Romanism. Hundreds have heard the word of God preached. The present average attendance is nearly one hundred, and would doubtless be much larger, but from the difficulty of getting a suitable hall for preaching. During most of the years of 1861, ’62, ’63 and ’64, preaching was held in English in Rio de Janeiro.

271In October of 1863, I came to São Paulo, to begin a new station in this city. In March of the present year, 1865, we organized a church here, receiving as our first fruits six persons on profession, all natives, and Portuguese, and converts from Romanism. The attendance here ranges from fifteen to thirty.

In October of 1864, we received on profession to the church in Rio de Janeiro, O. Senor José Manoel de Conceicão, formerly a priest of the Roman Catholic church, and vicar of Brotas in this province. He is a man of fine talents, education, extensive information, and very eloquent. We expect (D. V.) to ordain him on to-morrow, to the full work of the gospel ministry. In his former parish of Brotas a church was organized on the 13th November of the present year, with eleven members, converts from Romanism. No missionary resides there, and the work has been done so far by visits from time to time of the persons above-named.

Since 1855, a Scotch physician has been preaching in Rio de Janeiro. The result is a church, with a membership of more than one hundred, and an attendance of from two to three hundred.

About a dozen colporteurs are at work in Rio de Janeiro, and in various parts of the empire, circulating the Bible and other books.

Some seven or eight German ministers are laboring among their countrymen in various parts.

Yours, very truly,

A. L. Blackford.

I am also informed that a Presbytery was organized yesterday, by these three Presbyterian ministers, to be in communication with the Synod of Baltimore. Senor Conceicão having preached his trial sermon this morning, is to be ordained this afternoon. It was delivered at the house of Mr. Blackford, in the presence of a mixed auditory, of which Dr. Shaw, Major Meriwether and myself formed a part. 272As he spoke Portuguese, I could only gather a few ideas, and the others had to draw upon their imagination entirely; but, like the deaf man in regard to William C. Preston, we could say he made the motions well.

Afternoon. Since writing the above, I witnessed the ordination of Senor José Manoel de Conceicão (formerly a priest of the Roman Catholic church) as a minister of the gospel in the Presbyterian faith, of the Protestant church. He was interrogated by the Rev. A. L. Blackford, who was joined by the Rev. A. G. Simonton, and the Rev. F. J. C. Schneider, in the laying on of hands, while Senor Conceicão kneeled in their midst. Mr Simonton then delivered an address, at the close of which Senor Conceicão spoke with deep feeling and the most humble appreciation of his new relations.

This event indicates an important epoch in the progress of Protestantism in this papal land, and the character of the individual, with his influence among the people, will doubtless have considerable effect upon the public mind. He has manifested much independence in separating himself from the associations of Romanism; and his appearance bespeaks the character of a high-toned, intelligent gentleman.

Monday, December 18, 1865.

Our trunks were packed and all our baggage arranged for taking our departure early this morning; but it was found that there were still wanting two pack-mules and a pack-saddle to equip us for the tour.

Upon the proffer of Dr. Shaw to pay for the pack-saddle, one was purchased by Mr. Bennaton, at the round figure of thirty ($30.00) dollars. Our friend Mr. Sampson procured two additional mules, and the outfit was pronounced complete.

The President of the province having given Mr. Bennaton the requisite document and funds for proceeding with us, 273our party left the capital at half-past two o’clock P. M., after a detention of five days for preparation.

Mr. J. J. Auburtin, general superintendent of the Santos and São Paulo railway, accompanies us on the tour as far as Sorocaba, having his own servant, and also his own riding mules. But it seems that he is supplied with a pack-mule and pack-saddle by Mr. Bennaton, and hence the necessity for another to be purchased.

There are two camaradas and a servant with us, and the number of animals is fifteen, there being three pack-mules, with five loose animals, besides those under the saddle, exclusive of the two mules of Mr. Auburtin. Two or three of the animals furnished by the government are not in good condition, but those furnished by private parties are well fitted for service, and we have much reason to be thankful for the generosity of these gentlemen in supplying them for our use.

I have the good fortune to be mounted again upon Jack, the mule which was furnished by Mr. Gephardt for my former tour. He has now been purchased for the public service by Mr. Bennaton, in view of a commission which has been intrusted to him by the Minister of Agriculture, for a survey of routes from Campinas to Itu, and to Araraquara, with reference to the location of a railroad. After closing the present expedition, he expects to enter upon that service. This is a very important movement for the future prospects of any of our people who may locate near these places, but we cannot rely upon any thing definite being accomplished speedily for the improvement of transportation in that direction.

Upon leaving I called at the residence of Mr. Blackford, and got a Portuguese and English Testament for Dr. Shaw, and, on offering to pay for it, he told me that payment would be received in farina when business was commenced in this country, or, in other words, it was a present.

We halted for the night at the Ponte Cretia, where the 274establishment and the feminine tenant gave but little promise of comfort. Corn, however, for our animals, and supper of chicken and rice for ourselves, with tolerable beds, reconciled us to the necessity of the situation. In driving the animals to a pasture in the dark, a horse fell over a precipice and was left for the night.

Tuesday, December 19, 1865.

After getting a cup of coffee and having corn given to the stock, we got off from Ponte Cretia at 7 o’clock this morning. The horse being extricated from the ravine proved to be but slightly injured, and all moved on towards Itu. A number of trains of pack-mules were passed, laden with cotton, some of the bales being marked three and a half arrobas, (one hundred and twelve pounds,) while others were marked three arrobas, (ninety-six pounds,) and larger in bulk than those observed from other parts of this province. These bales correspond very much to the bales of Osnaburg, seen in South Carolina and Georgia, being, however, a little longer and not so broad. They are enclosed in bagging, with the sipo vine used instead of ropes.

We met on the road Colonel Fortunato José de Camargo, who resides near Faxina, and is engaged largely in raising horses, mules and cattle.

Mr. Auburtin informs me that he owns eighty (80) square leagues of territory, being the largest landowner in the province.

Our weather-protectors were brought into requisition to-day to keep off the shower of rain.

We stopped early in the day at the fazenda of Senor Joaquim José de Silva, some two miles from the main road, where every thing needful was provided for us.

We saw here a patch of tea-plants which had evidently grown well, but was now neglected. The seed are round, of the size of a small acorn, and three in each pod.

275Cotton which had produced a crop last year was again growing well, after being cut off near the ground.

Corn is also looking vigorous, and promises a good yield. All this land is very steep and hilly.

Wednesday, December 20, 1865.

After our horses and mules came from the pasture this morning, it was observed that some of them had blood upon their necks, caused from the bites of the bat, known as the vampire, that not unfrequently attacks animals at night, and fixes itself upon a vein of the neck.

Being supplied with an early breakfast, we took leave of Senor Silva and his two good-looking daughters, who were seen then for the first and only time during our visit. His son went with us to the Freguezia Avasariquama, or Piedede, avoiding the steep hills by which we had approached on the day previous.

One league beyond this place we reached the margin of the Tieté, and proceeded along it by a very fair road fifteen or sixteen miles, when we turned to the left, and reached the city of Itu at 6 o’clock in the evening.

This region of country is very irregular and even mountainous, yet we found cane growing well, and also a good prospect for corn and rice. The river is not suited for navigation, and the settlements on both sides depend upon the road we travelled for sending their products to market by carts or pack-mules.

We made a halt of three and a half hours during the heat of the day at the inn of Verzinha, getting dinner and refreshing our animals.

Upon reaching the town of Itu the urgent thirst of some of the party was satisfied with beer, after which we repaired to the elegant and extensive establishment of the Baron of Perecicaba. I was sorry that his son, Antonio Paez de Barros, had left home, as my acquaintance with him would have enhanced the pleasure of the visit.

276The old gentleman, however, received us with the greatest cordiality, and tendered us any thing he could do or furnish for our comfort. Leaving Mr. Auburtin to talk with the baron, the rest of us strolled out to the extensive fruitery, which is nearly a mile in length, and filled with a great variety of trees and vines.

The best quality of pine apple, called Abacashi, is growing here abundantly. Oranges, bananas, jaboticabas, pomegranates, figs, peaches and apples all grow here advantageously. There was a specimen of dwarf apple, spread over the ground like a small shrub, in the spaces between the other trees, and having a small, pleasant-tasted fruit. Upon inquiry I learned that this is a peculiar variety, and not the result of any special mode of culture.

Grapes of various kinds were growing vigorously in different parts of the grounds upon frames put up for the support of the vines. We enjoyed a delicious treat of these fine grapes.

The tea-plant was growing over a large area, and looks flourishing, affording a good article for table use. This shrub presents much the aspect of the boxwood tree, and from two to four of the tender leaves from each branch are picked off at each gathering of the crop.

Coffee likewise has a place in this collection of trees, but the soil has not that fertility which is requisite for a good yield, and manure is employed to give vigor to its growth.

The climate and soil of this region is regarded as particularly adapted to the yield of fruits.

Supper was announced at 9½ o’clock, and was of the most substantial order, with beer and wine.

Mr. Auburtin brought out his own black tea by permission.

Thursday, December 21, 1865.

After breakfast the Baron joined us in a ride to the Salto of the Rio Tieté, four miles distant.

277This is an irregular water-fall, making quite a cascade at one point of perhaps twenty feet. The entire fall of water is about fifty feet, and the site is well suited for machinery of any magnitude that may be desired. A large cotton factory might be located here with a prospect of being supplied with raw material from the country below; and much of it could ascend the river in canoes or boats to the foot of this fall. There has been a small mill here upon a site that would warrant extensive works, with command of any amount of water-power, and the investment would doubtless pay handsomely.

A public highway is projected from this place to Jundiahi, the present terminus of the railway from Santos; and this distance of thirty miles with wagons and mules would not increase greatly the expenses on the products of a factory.

Upon pricing a lot of horses and mules which passed over the bridge while we were at the Salto, it was found they could be bought from twenty-five dollars a head to forty dollars a head, but none of them were above medium quality and many quite inferior.

In passing through the city of Itu we were shown an establishment in which an eighteen-saw cotton-gin was moved by a portable steam-engine; and there was in the building a thirty-saw gin idle which might have been brought into operation by the same power. There was also a small press in use, and I counted ten hands of various sizes employed around these little contrivances.

Mr. Auburtin was much interested in this cotton-cleaning and packing, as he is desirous of getting information as to the extent and nature of the attention bestowed upon the culture and treatment of the cotton in this and the neighboring sections.

It is important for the railroad interest that cotton shall be successfully cultivated in this region of country; and this gentleman, with others connected with the company, have done much in placing seed in the hands of planters 278and in encouraging the growth of this staple. His visit now, so far as I learn, has for its object the ascertaining of the wants of the planters with a view to facilitating their growth of cotton; and, as Major Meriwether has given him the benefit of his large experience in growing this staple in the Southern States, he may be able to enlighten the people of Brazil somewhat in his next article.

A number of gentlemen, among whom were two brothers of the Minister of Agriculture, accompanied our party this afternoon to the quarry (lapidarea) of flagstone within a mile of the city. There is an inexhaustible bed of crude slate, of which the pavements of Itu present fine specimens; and it is so firm that horses pass along the side-walks without damage. The slabs in the quarry may be made of any proportions desired, from the tile of a house-top to massive steps and columns. It is so smooth and regular as to require no polishing. While at the quarry we saw a huge block raised from the mass beneath by simply inserting crow-bars between the adjacent lamina of the stone. Different strata present different thicknesses of these lamina, suited to different objects.

The city of Itu is made up to a large extent by the residence of parties who own planting interests in the country around, and many of them owning houses here spend most of their time upon their fazendas, so that the population is not usually proportionate to the number of the houses. The buildings upon the main plaza have a fine appearance, with iron railings in many instances to the second-story balconies, which are ornamented with tasteful figures, gilding, &c. I am informed that a good dwelling may be rented here, with garden, fruit trees, &c., for less than a hundred dollars a year; and the health of the location has a widespread reputation. The people seen about this place have a genteel look, and are generally neatly dressed, which bespeaks a favorable feature of the society and the character of the inhabitants.

279Our old friend the Baron presented each of our party with ear-picks and tooth-picks made by himself from the native wood of the country, and showed us a very old plain knife which was the only instrument used in making them. This may be considered the baron’s amusement, and by giving them to his friends he establishes a very close link of association, as these two articles are more directly personal than almost any thing else we use.

By the way, the habit of placing tooth-picks upon the table to be used after eating is a common usage of the best people throughout all this country; and the fancy stands for holding the wooden tooth-picks are generally of china, but very frequently of silver, and representing a peacock or other fowl.

Friday, December 22, 1865.

Our energetic old friend, the Baron, being apprised of our wish to make an early move, gave us breakfast at 6 o’clock. For this we should doubtless feel under special obligations to his two daughters, who are inmates of the house at present. One is the wife of Senor Barros, at São Paulo, from whom I brought a letter to the Baron, and with whom I had travelled in the diligence in my first trip from Santos. The other daughter is a widow whose husband died a few years since.

These ladies present an intelligent expression, and not only graced the table with their presence on previous occasions, but even at this extra early hour.

Taking our leave of this pleasant family we set out for Porto Feliz, sixteen miles distant.

The lands on this route are quite thin, but the cotton is found to give a fair yield; and many farmers, who could barely support their families formerly, have, by the cultivation of cotton, realized a good return. Our friend Mr. Auburtin has the credit of saving them from starvation by introducing the cotton seed into the country; and, as an 280old minister of the gospel told an abolitionist in by-gone years, that the negroes of the South were fed on cotton seed, so I tell him it is with these people. The amount and quality of the grass in this region does not warrant grazing farms, and yet the cattle seen on the roadside were generally in good order.

We reached the town of Porto Feliz at 11 o’clock A. M., and were hospitably received by Senor Angilo Custodo de Morais, who is a substantial and plain gentleman of much kindness of heart.

The houses here are extended upon one street for half a mile, and mostly one-story buildings, without much taste in their structure. The church is a large building of less antiquated style than most of those seen elsewhere, and, with a spacious open plaza in front of it, presents the most comely feature of the place.

We were informed that the best and most commodious houses in the town could be rented for three dollars or four dollars per month, and living in other respects is doubtless equally cheap. I observed in one store a very full assortment of all the variety of goods and utensils that are ordinarily found in one of our promiscuous country-stores, and on pricing various articles concluded that every thing was quite as cheap as in the United States.

Having need for some medicine to give Mr. Bennaton, I went to a druggist’s shop and was surprised to see the variety and cheapness of the various standard articles of the materia medica that are in common use.

The population is about fifteen hundred, and the health is said to be very good.

The town is located immediately upon the Rio Tieté, being, however, on an elevated bluff far above the level of the water. We visited the old port, which formerly was the point of embarkation for many persons descending the river, and the river is passable for large canoes from this point up to the Salto of Itu. Dr. Shaw and myself concluded 281to take a bath, and upon swimming across the stream it was found very swift and I was very much exhausted. As the Doctor did not undertake to cross, I called to him to meet me on my return, and, being a tall man, he waded into the stream as far as he could stand. The effort in swimming back had so completely exhausted me that he had to assist me in getting ashore. My muscles became cramped, and the current being very swift I could not resist it even when on my feet.

We observed here, what is very common at all the water-courses near the towns, a number of negro women in various stages of nudity, washing clothes. They don’t use tubs, nor do they often use pots to boil clothes; but, going into the stream with the articles, they are lashed into the water and scrubbed until they become clean. There is usually a preliminary soaking of twenty-four hours. Soap is used sparingly, and I have seen in many places the leaves of a bush used, which forms a lather, and serves the purpose of soap very, satisfactorily. A process of bleaching by exposure to the dew and sun alternately, for several days, is resorted to for the nicer linen garments, which gives them a very pretty, clear, white appearance; but the delay frequently proves a great annoyance to those who are needing their clothes.

The dorado is a fine, large fish, that is said to be abundant in this river, but we failed to have any opportunity of testing its qualities, nor did we see any other fish at this place.

We were called on by the Catholic priest, the vicar of this municipality, who is a mulatto of more than ordinary intelligence; but my prejudice to being associated with those having the negro blood could not be so entirely put aside as to make me feel at ease with this colored gentleman. His bearing was dignified and courteous, while he professes to be much pleased at the prospect of having our people to come into this province with their industrial arts. He is a native of Bahia, and I learn that there are many 282people in that section having a large admixture of the African blood.

The prevalent idea that the dark complexion of many of the people in this warm latitude is attributable to climate only needs observation to illustrate that the presence of negro blood is the source of the dark hue in most instances.

Natives of the country are seen whose skin is fair and white as elsewhere; and, though it is evident that the Portuguese race is not clear-skinned like the German, yet the absence of blue eyes, light hair and florid complexion is a very different thing from the tawny skin and curly hair so frequently observed here. Any unusual darkness of hue results from mixture of negro or Indian blood, rather than from the hot sun or the tropical climate.

In the case of the Spanish race, it is known that the pure Castilian is fair-skinned, with even a blond complexion, while the ordinary dark hue of the Spaniard is attributable to the mixture of Indian blood generally, and in some instances to the amalgamation with the negro element.

Mr. Auburtin told our host that we did not wish to wait for breakfast, but that a cup of coffee, with some bread and butter, and a few fresh eggs, would be acceptable.

Saturday, December 23, 1865.

Having disposed of the fresh eggs, &c., we set out for Epanema, and had considerable difficulty in ferreting out the paths in the absence of a guide who had engaged to conduct us to this place.

Some of the lands on this route of twenty miles were very good and yet were not under cultivation; while more inferior lands were planted in corn and cotton, with moderately good results.

In one instance, where the more fertile soil had been cleared and planted, the weeds and bushes had outgrown the corn, so as to lead to the abandonment of the crop; and it really looks as if the richness of the soil, which gives 283trouble to keep the land clear, becomes a reason for not cultivating it. There is a strange want of energy among the common people of this country; and whatever requires much labor, even to attain the best results, does not suit their habits.

In all this region, where coffee cannot be grown successfully, the planters are engaging in the culture of cotton, and with some there is quite a mania on the subject, so that breadstuffs are likely to be neglected as formerly with us.

We reached the iron-works at Epanema about 11 o’clock A. M., and the present superintendent, Senor Dom Joaquim de Sonsa Mursa, extended a cordial welcome to our party. His wife is a German lady, of fine appearance and much intelligence, who speaks English; and by her kind attention to our comfort made us feel quite at home. The large house was clean and neat in all its parts, and her table was very creditable to her skill as a housekeeper.

In looking around the old structures of this vast establishment for working iron, it is a matter of surprise that all should have been suffered to go to wreck. The gentleman who has now undertaken the restoration of the iron-works has a task imposed upon him which requires an energy and tact independent of scientific attainments; and there are practical difficulties which are not likely to be overcome while the place continues under the auspices of the Brazilian government.

There is a mountain of iron ore of superior quality which must furnish material to any desired extent for all future time. An inexhaustible supply of limestone is likewise near at hand to furnish the requisite flux, besides affording lime of an excellent quality. Sandstone is likewise found in abundance near the works, and is now being used to face the furnaces that are being refitted. In addition to these articles a quarry of slate or flagstone is located in close proximity.

There is also a large amount of good timber growing 284upon the mountain-slopes belonging to this property, which may be used for making charcoal to be employed in the furnaces.

The lands are of prime quality, being the best description of terra rocha upon the slopes adjacent to the vast reservoir of iron ore.

Under proper cultivation the soil here is suited to produce every thing to the best advantage; and would yield all the provisions that could be required by any number of operatives that would be necessary for the successful working of the place.

A number of negroes, most of whom are now very old, some cattle, and horses, and mules, belonging to the government, are here under the charge of Major Dias Albuquerque, who resides at the works, and has been the agent of the government for several years, simply keeping the property together without accomplishing any thing towards arresting the decay of buildings and machinery.

It is a magnificent ruin; and one feels like he had been transplanted to some vast relic of the ancients, to witness such immense resources lying in a state of entire disorder and neglect.

This place was put in operation more than fifty years ago, and at one time did a large business; but was subsequently discontinued, and some of the machinery was removed to be sent to another iron mine in the province of Matto-Grosso. This never reached its destination, and lies useless at some, point from which it is now impracticable to have it returned.

The site labors under a great difficulty in its isolated position and want of transportation. But the resources for producing the iron rail for a road would warrant the erection of a rolling-mill, to prepare the means of building a line of communication to some eligible point, and it would be well for some enterprising capitalists to seriously examine the advantages of a contract for these works, with a view to a permanent occupation.

285In visiting the various points we were supplied with riding animals; and Mr. Bennaton will be furnished here with two mules of the government to expedite our farther exploration of the country.

Sunday, December 24, 1865.

All of us had comfortable quarters for the night, and Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether slept in a large bed, over which a crown was suspended, in which the Emperor slept upon the occasion of his visit to this establishment some years ago.

Being supplied with breakfast, consisting in part of fresh milk and butter of superior make, our party left Epanema at 7 o’clock this morning and rode twelve miles to Sorocaba.

The greater part of the route lies through campo lands of the dark red order, having a hard and dry-looking grass that is not eaten much by stock, and here and there a few clumps of trees known as camponia, such as are left in a rocky place of a field.

Upon reaching the town we were received at the house of Senor Coronel Manoel Lopez Oliveiro, to whom Mr. Auburtin had a letter from the President of the province. He was so much occupied with his cordial reception that he did not introduce the rest of us until requested to do so by Mr. Bennaton. So goes the world!

Mr. Auburtin being the honored guest, was assigned a suite of rooms alone; and the other four of us were quartered together in an apartment of the same size, but all were very comfortably provided for in every respect.

This gentleman is a man of large means, and has two cotton-gins with steam-power in the city, where he prepares for the market not only the yield of his own fazenda but a large amount purchased in the seed. He seems under some special obligation to Mr. Auburtin for introducing his cotton to favorable notice in England.

286Monday, December 25, 1865.

The explosion of a few rockets, and the ringing of the church bells at midnight, in commemoration of the birth of our Saviour, is the only indication we have had here of Christmas. The only thing to attract attention is the suspension of the ordinary avocation of life, and every one seems to wear rather a serious aspect, than to indulge in any hilarity or festivities on the occasion.

We walked out before breakfast to deliver some letters of introduction to parties in the town, but none of them were found, excepting Dom Oliveiro, who treated us very courteously, and tendered us any assistance in his power. We called also upon Senor Carlos Tolemei, who manifested great readiness to aid us, inviting all to his house to-night. Coffee had been served before going out, and we did not get breakfast until ten o’clock, which was accompanied by tea and cakes, as has been done at some other places, instead of coffee and milk.

We all rode out with Colonel Lopez to-day, to visit his plantation, and found cotton, corn and beans, all growing together upon the same ground. There is no regard for rows in planting any of these articles, and the stand of cotton is in some parts a little deficient, but in the main average; the growth is good, and the number of bolls upon the advanced portion is large. Some of the cotton has been planted this season, but another portion has been cut off from the growth of last season, and is springing up again very luxuriantly. The crop gives evidence of good culture with the hoe, and is quite free from grass or weeds, but the cotton must suffer by mixture with corn and beans. The soil, is dark and loose, with an admixture of large gravel, making it very liable to wash, and hence the absence of the plough in its culture is rather advantageous than otherwise, and more especially as there are many steep hills under cultivation. This land corresponds more to some of the cotton 287lands of the up-country in Georgia than any territory I have seen in Brazil.

Senor Carlos rode out with us, and invited the party to visit his cotton-gin, moved by water-power, a few miles from town, but time did not permit. Besides these, there is also a cotton-gin in the town moved by steam, which is owned by Senor Machado.

We were visited this afternoon by Dom Oliveiro, Dom Americo, Delegado of Police, and Municipal Judge, and Senor José Leite Pintead, who proposed that we should remain for an entertainment by the citizens, but our motto being “duty before pleasure,” it could not be accepted.

Dr. Vas, of Campinas, called also to see us, being here on a trip of recreation. He informs me that Settequéda has gone to Jahu, to purchase a fazenda in that section, which is the first point of our exploration of those lands.

The visit to the house of Senor Carlos was enjoyed by all very much. His wife performs skilfully on the piano, and he sings admirably well. Beer and champagne were served with other refreshments.

Sorocaba contains about five thousand inhabitants, and was formerly a great mart for mules, there being eighty thousand sold here in a single season. It is very healthy, and there is but one physician in the entire district to meet all the needs of the people.

The city is located upon the Rio Sorocaba, from which it doubtless derives its name.

There is a factory here of fancy whips, that is somewhat famous throughout the province, and many of the ladies receive presents of Sorocaba riding-whips from those who wish to pay them a compliment. The structure of the whip is most elaborate, being plated with material of different colors, and a part of the larger end interwoven with fine pieces of the quills of the porcupine. The butt of the whip is covered with silver, and has a silver chain with some ornament 288attached to it, while there are two or three bands of silver on the stock.

At the same place will be found also fancy bridles, trimmed with silver; belts of most fantastic style; girth of rare patterns; cruppers of every variety, and saddle cloths, which are intended to be very ornamental on the animal.

To appreciate the importance of this class of articles, it is requisite to understand that many people here lay great stress upon their outfit for riding, and the style differs materially from that which we have been accustomed to see. The bridles are made in this establishment by platting a number of thongs of raw-hide into a flat or round form, which constitute the headstall and reins of the bridle, with sundry silver rings at different points of each.

Where the reins unite at the hand there are two rings, secured together by a small strap, and from each of these extends loose ends of some two feet in length, which may be used for whipping or for securing the animal. Martingales are very seldom used in this country.

Tuesday, December 26, 1865.

Having exhausted the resources of the place by our observations, we left Sorocaba at eight o’clock this morning, after being supplied with a cup of coffee and some biscuits by our host.

Our passage through dreary campo lands for three leagues (twelve miles) brought us to Campo Largo, which is a very comely little village of the mud-built type. Proceeding from this some miles, we began to observe the slopes on our right under cultivation, with a number of neat settlements along the lower part of the hills, which continued for a considerable distance on our course.

The rain fell heavily at one time, but we had the good fortune to have a house for protection, having stopped to examine some mules.

We stopped for the night at Capello de Alto, and soon 289found that a pile of pea vines had to be our bed, while there were no knives and forks to eat with. A can of my tomatoes assisted in making out the grub, and with collards, beans, farina and stewed chicken, we made a very substantial repast, this being the only meal of the day.

My blanket and pillow, which had been of little use heretofore, came now into requisition, and the others used their overcoats for bedding.

The proprietor of this establishment was evidently well satisfied with the outfit of his house, and we all thought him the most independent-looking personage we had met. He was attired in white cotton pants or drawers, with a short shirt of the same material outside. Having a large goatee, and long, uncombed hair, he cut a figure.

Wednesday, December 27, 1865.

With the conviction that we could not fare worse elsewhere, we made an early move from Capella de Alto, hoping to find a place for breakfast within ten or twelve miles. But there was no suitable place to stop until we reached Lamberi, sixteen miles distant, and having rode very slowly, we got nothing to eat until two o’clock P. M.

Our road to-day lay through a hilly country, and though the soil was for the most part thin, there was some very fair farming land. In several places there were campos of waste land, growing only a rough grass and the scrubby palm.

Quite a number of the native men of the country were seen about the ranchos on the roadside, and the recruiting officers might find a good harvest in this region. Many of the older men, and most of the women, were affected with the goitre, that swelling of the glands of the neck which is prevalent in the proximity of most of the serras. We observed also, as we approached this place, quite a number of persons laboring under the leprosy (Morfea) posted on the roadside, to ask alms of those passing.

290This miserable condition is a disease of the skin and other tissues, which is supposed to result from the climate in connection with improper diet; and is complicated in some instances with syphilis, or other degenerated states of the system. The treatment of it has not heretofore been attended with satisfactory results, but I learn that a vine has been discovered which cures this terrible malady, and the efficacy of this treatment will ere long be fully tested.

The subjects of this disorder are excluded from all association with other persons, and are often found in tents or rude huts, in some isolated spot, near the thoroughfares, so that they may gather a small pittance from travellers, to purchase the means of subsistence. They seem very grateful for even the smallest amount that may be given, and we have usually thrown them a few dumps, but there was none in hand to-day.

This being my forty-first birthday, I find myself at the middle period of life with a crisis in my affairs which must influence the future of myself and family very materially. To commence the world as it were anew with six young children involves great responsibility to my wife and myself; but I trust that all may be accomplished for our mutual welfare and comfort, by the issue of my present investigations in this county.

The past is to be separated from the future with more distinctness than any other periods of my existence have been, not only by the change of events but by the alterations of our social relations; and the rending of old ties and establishing of new associations makes the prospective change of location a very serious consideration.

The circumstances in which we will be placed may not admit of those advantages in rearing and educating our children which they would have enjoyed under a different order of things; and I realize that many duties as a man and parent devolve upon me now that differ much from those of former years.

291But being imbued with a deep-rooted sentiment of self-reliance, it is still my privilege to exercise those energies of body and those faculties of mind which God has given me, for promoting the welfare of those dependent upon me.

Thursday, December 28, 1865.

Having taken a cup of coffee at the inn of mine host, Captain Marianno, we set out at 5 o’clock this morning, and after a ride of twelve miles over hills and plains, we reached the town of Itapetininga.^[26] The first four miles lay through an irregular matto, with numerous very steep hills; but the remaining eight miles were through campos of gently undulating lands. Upon these there were several groups of horses and a few herds of cattle, but neither presented an appearance that would recommend this region for stock-raising.

We stopped with Senor Lenente Coronel Manoel Affonso Pereira Chaves, and though plain in his garb and manner, we were made to realize that we were heartily welcomed, while he exhibited an intelligence and general acquaintance with this region which promises to be very useful to us.

Upon conferring with a French engineer named Prudent, who has been employed by the government in constructing a road from this place to Sette Barros, on the Ribeira de Ignape, Mr. Bennaton concluded this route would be impracticable, 292and determined to proceed to Paranapanema. All the roads across the serra leading to the river are said to be in very bad order, but it being the business of this engineer to put this road in good order, it would be well for the authorities to investigate the cause of failure, and perhaps it would be found that another man would be more faithful to his charge.

The people here partake generally of the mental and physical characteristics of the country, and there is very little taste displayed in their dwellings or other houses.

A new theatre, which is not yet completed, is by far the neatest structure in the town, while the church is ready to tumble down from age and decay.

The plan of the place is similar to most of those seen, having a central open space near the church, and the streets laid off elsewhere at right angles and not usually more than thirty feet wide.

Most of the houses have but a single story, yet there are some exceptions, and our host has quite a large two-story residence, which, however, is not yet completed. Senor Chaves has presented me with a history of the province of São Paulo, for which I feel very thankful; and it will be made one of my text-books in learning the Portuguese language.

There is a stream of water on one side of the town upon which there is a saw-mill, and a cotton-gin is soon to be in operation also at the same place.

Notwithstanding this facility for water-power, we witnessed the stupendous folly of a small cotton-gin with eighteen saws in operation by the force of a treadmill, worked by the leg-power of men; and a screw was also seen at the same place worked by manual force of these bipeds.

In this apparatus there is a huge upright wheel of fifteen feet diameter, in which a man is constantly walking, and yet not advancing; and two other men are standing upon a platform outside of the rim of the wheel so as to use their 293feet upon certain pegs of wood, and thus assist the rotary motion. Four different bands and wheels without number are used to communicate this motion to the gin, and all this when mules and oxen are running idle about the town. A Portuguese is the owner of this stupid contrivance.

Friday, December 29, 1865.

Our host favored us with an early breakfast, and we set out at 8 o’clock A. M. on the road leading to Paranapanema. Passing the Rio Itapetininga we traversed campos varied with patches of matto for twenty miles, when we stopped at a wayside inn kept by Senor José Ribeiro. The configuration of the lands over which we passed was irregular, and in some places extensive gullies or ravines had resulted from the washing of the rains. Most of the soil of the campos in this region is of a reddish aspect, while the matto lands are of a dark gray color, and producing fair crops under cultivation. Corn was observed growing well, and cotton is said to yield favorably.

The Irish potato was seen in a flourishing state at one place on the road to-day, and we are informed that this vegetable grows successfully in most parts of the country.

Those who plant cotton in this section are under the necessity of taking it in the seed to the gins at Itapetininga, and we saw some being carried on pack-mules in this form, a large basket being on each side.

At our stopping place we were informed that the proposed route from Paranapanema to Xiririca was in wretched condition, and I suggested that it would still be practicable to reach the Ribeira de Ignape at Iporanga, by way of Faxina and Apiahy. This lead to a warm controversy between Mr. Bennaton and myself as to undertaking that trip under all the disadvantages presented, but it was finally concluded to continue our present course.

294Saturday, December 30, 1865.

Starting at 7 o’clock this morning we passed over a beautiful campo country with a portion of fair matto land, and crossing the Rio Paranapanema we reached the town of that name at 3 o’clock P. M., making a distance of twenty-eight miles.

There were more horses and cattle seen to-day upon the green plains than upon any previous portion of our route, and this presents a fine prospect for raising stock of all kinds.

Small patches of good arable land, with a growth of trees, are scattered at long intervals throughout these extended undulating campos, and there are also trees growing along the small streams which meets all the demands for fuel or for making enclosure about the houses.

Within four miles of the town there is a large fazenda in the open land owned by Senor Francisco Antonio D’Aquiar e Castro, (son of the Marquiza de Santos,) who resides at São Paulo.

Here we saw that manure renders these lands productive, and the best specimen of cabbage seen in Brazil was growing in the garden, while other articles also looked vigorous.

There was a large number of hogs in most excellent condition enclosed in a pen, and the number of corn-cobs showed that this staple was produced plentifully in this section.

We met on the road beyond the fazenda a lot of fine hogs going to market, and asking the price it was stated to be seven dollars per head, and as they would average two hundred pounds, meat does not exceed three and a half cents per pound.

The buildings of the fazenda are commodious and substantial, with a dwelling that presents quite a neat appearance. A supply of clear water is brought from a distance by a race or ditch; and I especially observed the slight impression made upon this firm red clay soil by the passage of 295the rapid current of water through the yard into the lot for the hogs and cattle.

An extensive and very strong enclosure for the stock of cattle was constructed by having large upright posts placed in the ground, with a groove on each side, to receive the ends of poles, one above another, thus forming a most substantial close fence. Around this enclosure a row of trees has been planted, and protected by a railing of poles some three and a half feet from the ground; which will in a few years afford a good shade for such cattle as may be kept up. This planting of trees for shading is not often seen in any part of this country, and it is a matter of special attention in this place.

On riding into the town we met Senor Frei Ponsiano de Montaldo Capushinho, to whom we bore a letter, which being read, we were assured of his readiness to accommodate us.

He is the Catholic priest of the place, and has the best establishment we saw. I observed the facings of the windows were of native pine, which grows very large and extensively at no great distance. The church is a combination of the old building with a new structure, but all in a rude, unfinished condition.

Sunday, December 31, 1865.

Our inquiries at Paranapanema satisfy all the party that it will not be practicable to reach Xiririca with our animals; and in view of the distance to Iporanga, the prearranged plan of visiting the country upon the Ribeira de Ignape has been abandoned by my friends, Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether. But as I am not prone to give up any thing desirable because of the difficulties to be encountered, I expect to proceed to Iporanga with animals and a camarada hired by Mr. Bennaton, and thence I will descend the river to Xiririca, where I hope to find Mr. Street.

In the mean time Mr. Bennaton will go with the other 296gentlemen to Botocatu and the region of Perecicaba, including a visit to the country around Araraquara. They will give me a report in writing of the impressions connected with the localities visited,^[27] and I expect to furnish 297them an account of my observations, so that each party may be informed as to the entire territory examined.

My proposed route, lying between the serra and the river, will give me a very good idea of the lands on this side of the river; and my investigations may be extended afterwards to the other side. The climate below Xiririca is said to be very unfavorable from the rains and fogs which prevail; but above that line the atmosphere is reported to be free from humidity and to be healthy; while the lands are represented as being fertile and adapted to all variety of products grown in this country.

The temperature here to-day is remarkably cool for this latitude, the thermometer being this evening 62° Fahrenheit; and there is a considerable breeze, with a slight drizzle of rain, which is said to be very common during this season. The town and country are however represented as healthy, and there is no physician residing in the municipality or district. Here, as elsewhere, the glands of the neck among the women are enlarged very much.

298There is quite an assemblage of people here to join in the festivities of New Year’s Eve, and extensive preparations for a grand bonfire and illumination, with a display of fire-works on the fantastic order. A square pen of wood has been built in the open plaza to the height of fifteen (15) feet, with a collection of small sticks arranged on top for ignition, all of which is expected to burn to the ground in the course of the evening or night. The illumination at the front of the church is made by cups of the peel of a half orange, having oil and a taper, all arranged into the shape of a cross, but they do not give much brilliancy, and this display is rather a failure.

The rockets are of great variety; some giving reports like a musket, others discharging several balls of different hues, and again a few having a reversed action, by which a blazing mass is sent down amidst the men, women, and children, or dividing into numerous streams of fire, which dash hither and thither in all directions. The revolving fire-works were decidedly successful at the close.

A few brass instruments and a violin in the hands of genteel Germans afforded very good music.

New Year’s Day, 1866.

This morning is clear and beautiful, with the thermometer at 64° degrees Fahrenheit, having risen two degrees since last night. Nature seems to be all in smiles to welcome the return of a new year. Oh, that my heart could feel in unison with this bright and sunny morning!

But while all around is joyous, all within is sadness. The old year of 1865 has come to a close, and the events which have transpired shroud the retrospect with gloom and sadness. Horrible in their reality, and almost maddening to the thought, I would gladly if it were in my power cease to think of what is past. Could the fruitless martyrdom of my three noble brothers be forgotten, the sad fate of many who are left behind cannot be torn from my consciousness 299and consigned to oblivion. The fact that my own wife and children have been deprived of a house and home by the ruthless hand of the hostile incendiary, stares me constantly in the face as a terrible reality. I cannot but feel very anxious for the present condition and the future well-being of those near and dear to me.

Four months entire have now elapsed since any intelligence has reached me from them or other friends, and the disturbed state of society around them causes me much concern.

My heart feels a weight and depression not in keeping with the advent of a new year; but, flying from the dark abyss of misery which reflection brings to view, let me occupy my thoughts with the persons and things around me.

The sound of music awoke us at early dawn, and several pieces were performed to welcome the coming of another year. Upon going out, we found quite a transformation in the plaza, by the planting of forty-two palm trees (species of palmetto) during the night, making an avenue from the front of the church. They are not expected to grow, but are merely placed here as a part of the festivities of the occasion, to be continued to-day.

The companions of my voyage thus far have now left me to return to Itapetininga, from which point they will proceed to Botocatu. Two mules were brought here by Mr. Bennaton, though it was known that no further provision was to be made for me. This purchase, at forty-seven and a half ($47.50) dollars for a saddle-mule, and thirty-five ($35) dollars for a pack-mule, is considerably below the prices at the capital, but above the average valuation in this region.

The outfit for three men and three attendants now consists of eighteen animals.

I remain here for the camarada, Senor Pedro Crano D’Oliveiro, to come with his mules, and proceed with me through the woods to Iporanga. All these men, though 300performing menial service, expect a certain deference to be shown them; and it is customary to give them the title of respect implied by Senhor on all occasions. In fact, no freeman, white or black, is ever addressed here without this, but it is usual to prefix it to the first part of the name, even with persons of distinction, instead of using the surname or family name as is done with us, in prefixing the word Mister through respect.