INDEX

Aberdeen, qualifications of schoolmistress of, 431 n¹²⁰⁹ Aberdein, Mrs. Frank, cited, 400 n¹¹⁴⁰ Abrahat, Mrs., pensioned by Queen Anne, 347 Abrantès, Duchesse d', 105, 128 n³⁴³, 185 n⁵⁴², 186 and n⁵⁴⁵, 237 n⁶³⁸ Abruzzi, the, lace-making in, 68 Addison, cited, 349 Addo, Marquis d', 459 n¹²⁶⁴ Adelaide, Queen, 409 and n¹¹⁵⁵, n¹¹⁵⁶ Adélaïde de France, 182 Adelhaïs, Queen (wife of Hugh Capet), 5 Agriculture, women employed in, lace-makers contrasted with, 370 Aquesseau, Chancellor d', quoted, 264 Alb lace, at Granada, 92 Albert, Archduke of Austria, 113 n³²⁶ ——— Museum (Exeter), tallies in, 78 n²⁴² Albissola, lace manufacture at, 75, 77 and n²⁴⁰, 78, 79 and n²⁴⁶ Alcuid, embroidery taught by, 6 Alenches, 249 Alençon numbers of lace-workers at Chantilly and, (1851), 257 n⁶⁸⁸, refugees from, in 18th century, 347 ————, Duke d', 140 n³⁹⁵ ———— lace (see Point d'Alençon) Alice, Princess, bridal dress of, 409 Almagro, lace industry at, 102 and n²⁹⁷, 103 n³⁰⁵ Aloe thread, Florentine use of, 93 n²⁷³ —— thread lace Greek, 86 Italian, 79 and n²⁴⁵ Portuguese, 107 Spanish, 91, 93, 99, 101 Alost Valenciennes, ground stitch of, 133 Altar-cloths, alternate designs on, 24 Bock collection, in, 23 Prague, at (by Anne of Bohemia), 9 Altar frontal in point conté, (Mrs. Hailstone's), 23 Altenburg, 268 Alva, Duke of, 366 n¹⁰⁸⁵ Alvin, M., 480 n¹³²² Amelia, Princess, 128 America, impulse given to lace industry by U.S., 187 lace imported to, from— Bailleul, 241 England (baby lace) 385 Grammont, 134 Italy, 75, 79 Mirecourt, 253 Portugal, 106 Saxony, 263 Spain, 102 Puritan lace-makers in, 372 n¹⁰⁹⁹ war with, effect of, on lace trade, 408 Amsterdam, establishment of lace fabric at, 259 Anderson, quoted, 74, 83, 101, 124, 271,288, 371 n¹⁰⁹³, 384, 396; cited, 264 n⁷⁰⁹, 265 n⁷¹³, 286, 397 ————, Lady, robbery at house of, 346 Angoulême, Duchesse d', 196 Anne of Austria, influence of, on French fashions, 147, 150 Mechlin veil of, 125-126 and n³⁵⁶ pattern-book dedicated to, 144, 498 pilgrimage to Thierzac, 248 presents of English lace from Henrietta Maria to, 330 and n⁹⁶¹, 401 —— of Bohemia, Queen (wife of Richard II.), altar-cloth by, 9 —— of Denmark, cost of lace of, 317 and n⁹⁰⁴, 320 and n⁹²⁵ Elizabeth's old clothes presented to, 320 English home industries encouraged by, 319 foreign lace purchased by, 327 funeral of, 325 and n⁹³⁴ —— of England (Queen Anne) household management of, 174 n⁵¹⁶ Mechlin lace of, 126 and n³⁶⁰ period of, 347-350 Anspach, 265 ————, Margrave of, 178 Anti-Gallican Society Edinburgh and Dublin Societies contemporaneous with, 429 prizes awarded by, 119, 262, 297, 355 and n¹⁰⁵⁸, 374 and nn, 380, 395, 398, 404 records of, cited, 373 Antwerp book sale at (1864), 482 Brussels lace made at, 130 Mechlin lace made at, 125 ———— lace arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n³⁶⁵ Brussels lace compared with, 118 first mention of, 129 and n³⁶⁷ Spanish market for, 129-130 ———— lace-makers, in London (1618-1688), 129 n³⁶⁶ Anzola, M., 474 Application lace, 122; flowers, 252 Appliqueuse, work of, 122 Aprons, laced, 309 and n⁸⁷³, 338, 356 and n¹⁰⁶² Aranda, Madame d', 98 n²⁸⁰ Arbroath, effigy formerly in church of, 418 Ardee, braid and cord lace made at, 446 Ardfert Abbey, lace shroud found at, 436 Argentan, 202 and n⁵⁶⁹ ———— lace. See Point d'Argentan Argentella, 78 n²⁴⁴, 193 and n⁵⁵⁵ Argentine of Dorset, 310 n⁸⁷⁷ Argyle, Duchess of. See Hamilton Armada pattern lace of Queen Charlotte, 397 Armstrong, Mrs. Rachel, 438 Arnold, E., cited, 466, 469 n¹²⁸⁶, 471 n¹²⁹⁹ Arras early industries of, 239 gold lace of, 240 lace industry of, 238-240 lace of, compared with that of Lille, 235, 240; with that of Mirecourt, 252 number of lace workers (1851), 257 n⁶⁸⁸ Arundel, Countess of, 12 ————, Lady, quoted, 395 Assizes, Maiden, custom of presenting laced gloves at, 337 n⁹⁹¹ Asti, Baroness A. d', 79 Athens, white silk lace of, 86 Atterbury, Bishop, lace smuggled in coffin of, 361 Auberville, M. Dupont, exhibits by, 58; cited, 78 Aubry, Felix, quoted, 132 n³⁷⁶, 160 n⁴⁶⁶, 228 n⁶¹⁴, 231, 257 n⁶⁸⁸; cited, 184, 285, 292 Audiganne, A., cited, 228 n⁶¹⁴ Augsburg, 266, 267 Augusta, Princess, marriage of, 359 Aumale, Madame d', 183 Aurillac, 154, 246-250 Austria Albert Archduke, 113 n³²⁶ Anne of. See Anne lace of, 268 Auto-da-fè, lace worn at, 100 Auvergne ancient names preserved in, 246 n⁶⁵⁸ lace exhibited (1867), 246 Maltese guipures made in, 88 mignonette made in (1665), 35 number of lace-makers in (1851), 257 n⁶⁸⁸ petition of lace-makers in (1767), 64 thread used in, 245 ————, Mgr. de la Tour d', 183 Auvray, quoted, 224 n⁶¹¹ Avaux, M. le Comte d', 155 Avrillion, Mlle., 177 n⁵²⁶; cited, 184 n⁵⁴¹ Axmouth, lace-workers of, 409 n¹¹⁵⁷ Aylesbury, lace industry of, 378, 379 Baby lace, 385 Babylon, embroidery of, 3 Backhouse, James, 300 Bacon, Lord, 318 Baden, Princess of, 178 Bailey's Dictionary, quoted, 303 n⁸³⁰ Bailleul, 241 and n⁶⁴⁷, 257 n⁶⁸⁸ Baillie, James, 432 Baker, Robert, 437 Baldachino in Italian lace, 66 "Ballad of Hardyknute" quoted, 24 Bamberg, collection of German Point at, 267 Bampton, Mr., 343 Bands Falling. See Falling Bands Lawyers', 337 Bannatyne, James, 422 Baptism ceremony, excess of lace at, 352 n¹⁰⁴⁶ Barante, M. de, cited, 111 Barbara, Princess of Portugal (1729), 105 Barbes, 168 n⁴⁹⁶, 180 and n⁵³³ ——— pleines, 234 and n⁶²⁷, n⁶²⁸ Barcelona, lace industry of, 91, 101 and n²⁹⁴, 103 n³⁰⁵ pillows used at, 103 n³⁰⁵ silk of, used in Maltese lace-making, 88; used for blondes, 103 Bard, William, 403 Barleycorn net, 448 Barry, Madame Du. See du Barry Bars, Genoese lace joined by, 74, 75 n²³⁶ Baseus, N., 470 Basing, lace purchased at, by Anne of Denmark, 320 Basset, Anne, 290 ———, Mary, 291 Bassompierre, 142 Bath and West of England Society, 410 and n¹¹⁵⁹ Bath Brussels lace, 405 Baucher, Canon, 226 Bauta, 57 and n¹⁹³ Bavari, 55 Bavaria, Queen of, 421 Bavière, Isabeau de, 139 n³⁹³ Bay, Rudolf, 274 Bayeux, black lace of, 214, 226 Chantilly shawls made at, 215 lace industry, establishment of, 226; Lefébure's development of, 228; number of lace-makers engaged in, 228 n⁶¹⁴ mignonette made at (1665), 35 n¹⁰⁹ point d'Alençon of, 200 point de Marli of, 225 and n⁶¹³ point de raccroc of, 120 Spanish silk laces contrasted with those of, 103 Tapestry, 6 Bayman, Mrs., 107 Bayonne, linen work of (1679), 79 n²⁴⁸ Beale, Mrs., thefts from, 349 Bearing cloths, 309 and n⁸⁷¹ Beau Nash on aprons, 356 Beaucaire, fair at, 43 n¹³⁶ Beaufort, Duchesse of, edicts ignored by, 142; extracts from inventory of, 143 and n⁴¹³, n⁴¹⁴, n⁴¹⁵. Beauharnais, Eugène, 123 n³⁵¹ Beaumont and Fletcher, quoted, 292 n⁷⁸⁸, 296 and n⁸⁰⁵, 315 and n⁸⁹⁶, 324, 363 n¹⁰⁷⁰, 365 Beauregard, 248 and n⁶⁶⁴ Becket, Thomas à, 202 and n⁵⁶⁹ Beckford, quoted, 90, 98 n²⁸⁰ Beckmann, quoted, 92 n²⁶⁷ Bedford, number of lace-makers in, 377 ————, Lady, 320 ————, Duke of, 360 ————, Lord, 348 Bedfordshire lace, 88, 375-377, 385 Beds, lace trimmings for, 27 n⁸⁴, 98 and n²⁸⁰ Beer (Devon), lace-workers at, 409 and n¹¹⁵⁷, 416 n¹¹⁶⁹, 417 and n¹¹⁷¹ Beggars' lace, 34 Béguinage, 126, 130, 133 "Bèle, Prerie," 144 Belev lace, 283 Belgium (See also Flanders and Brabant) lace industry (See also Antwerp, Brussels etc.) application exported to France, annual value of, 252 centres of, before 1665, 44 n¹⁴⁴ development of, 138 female education in, 112-113 guipures made by, 410 importance of, 112 and n³²⁴ numbers employed in (1861), 112 pillow lace. See Valenciennes Valenciennes industry transferred to, 232 lace schools in, 113-115 linens and flax of, 405-407 pedlar lace-sellers in, 44 and n¹⁴³ smuggling lace of, into France, 116 thread, fineness of, 119 n³³⁹ weaving of lace in fourteenth century in, 109 Bell, Mrs., old lace of, 384 Bellière, M. de la, 130 and n³⁶⁸ Bellini, lace in picture by, 47 Ben, Miss Mary, 398 Beni Hassan, figures at, 1 Beresford, Lord John George, 443 Berkeley, Bishop, quoted, 371 n¹⁰⁹² Berlin, number of lace fabrics in (circ. 1685), 264 Bernhardi, N. R., cited, 497 n¹³⁵⁹ Berry lace industry, 256 Berthe (mother of Charlemagne), 5 Bertin, Mlle., 181 Bertini, Cav., 462 n¹²⁷⁰ Bess of Hardwick, 11 Béziers, Bishop of, 154, 155 Bible printed by Quentell, 460 Bidney, Miss Jane, 409 Bigazzi, M., 468 n¹²⁹³, 471 n¹³⁰⁰ Billament lace, 48 and n¹⁵⁹, 299 and n⁸¹⁷ Binche, royal edict concerning, 135 and n³⁸¹ ——— lace, 118, 135 and n³⁸³, 136, 212 Bindoni, G. A., 471 Bingham, Lady, 439 Bisette (bizette), 33 and n¹⁰², 210, 256 Bishops, denouncement of ruffs by, 316-317; ruffs worn by, 318 Black lace Caen fabric, 225 Caen, Bayeux and Chantilly, similarity of fabrics of, 226 Calvados, 223 Chantilly fabric, 212-215 and n⁵⁸⁴, 226 East Flanders fabric, 134 England, imported to, from Low Countries, 117 n³³⁰; fashion introduced into, 153 n⁴⁴⁴; Lille fabric popular in, 237 fond d'Alençon, ground, 214 France, fashion introduced into, 153-154 Le Puy fabric, 245 Liège fabric, 137 n³⁹¹ Lille fabric, 236, 237 loom-made, 432 n¹²¹² masks of, 177 Saxony fabric, 263 Turin, at court of, 153 n⁴⁴⁵ Blanche of Lancaster, 285 n⁷⁵⁵ Blandford, lace industry of, 344, 396 and nn, 397 n¹¹³⁴ Blessington, Countess of, lace collection of, 369 Blois, Mlle. de, 161-162 and n⁴⁷² Blonde de fil, 34 and n¹⁰⁸, 237 Blonde-workers, wages of, 225 Blondes Almagro, at, 102 n²⁹⁷ Barcelona silk used for, 103 Caen, of, 224 Catalonian, 102 England, introduction of manufacture into, in George II.'s time, 356; made at Sherborne, 397 French court, at, 182 Genoese manufacture of, 75 Le Puy, of, 245 Spanish, 103 n³⁰⁵ Vélay, of, 244 white, 214 Bobbin lace (See also Pillow lace) Belgian, 123 bobbins used for, 296 n⁷⁹⁸ pillow lace a term for, 32 point duchesse, 123 royal inventories, mentioned in, 295 n⁷⁹⁷ value of, per oz. (Queen Elizabeth's time), 295 n⁷⁹⁷ ——— net English machine-made, 447-450 France, first made in, 187 Bobbins description of, 32, 33, 295 n⁷⁹⁵, 391 and n¹¹²⁷ Honiton, at, 415 n¹¹⁶⁶ long, used for bobbin lace, 296 n⁷⁹⁸ materials used for, 32, 74 n²³⁵ number of, 33 n¹⁰¹ Peniche, at, 106 n³¹⁴ Bock, Dr., collection of, 23 and n⁷⁴, 24 Boenen, G., 311 Bohemia, modern lace of, 262 Boileau, quoted, 159 Boislaunay, Epoux Malbiche de, 206 Boke of Curtasye, quoted, 290 Bolbec lace, 218 Bolingbroke, Lord, 351 Bologna, lace-making at, 68, 81 n²⁴⁸ Bonald, Cardinal de, 183 Bone, bobbins made of, 74 n²³⁵ —— lace bobbin lace distinguished from, 296 n⁷⁹⁸ explanation of term, 400 —— pins (See also Bobbins), 295 n⁷⁹⁵ Bone-work, why so called, 294 Bonzy, Monseigneur de, 154-155 Books, parchment patterns on covers of, 77 Boot tops, 145, 150 Bordeaux fair, 43 n¹³⁶ Borlase, Sir Henry, 378. Bosse, Abraham, engravings by, 146, 147, 149 Bottles used as light reflectors, 390 and n¹¹²⁵ Boufflers, Governor, 236. Bourbon, Catherine de, 144, 482, 494 ————, Duchesse de, extracts from the inventory of, 120 n³⁴⁴, 125 n³⁵⁴, 128 n³⁶⁴, 162 n⁴⁷⁵, 168 n⁴⁹⁶, 169 n⁴⁹⁷, 174 n⁵¹⁹, 195 n⁵⁶⁰ Bourg-Argental, 224 Bourges, 5, 256 ————, Archbishop of, 118 and n³³⁶ Bourgogne, Duc de, 99 n²⁸³ Bowdon, Miss, 417 Bowen, Emanuel, quoted, 405 Bowes, Sir Robert, 38, 298 Bowie, J., 430 n¹²⁰⁷ Bowll, William, 308. Boys as lace-makers, 263, 377, 413, 414 Brabant (See also Belgium) lace-workers from, settled at Tönder, 274 point de Sedan, attributed to, 254 Brabant lace. See Brussels, Mechlin, etc. Braid, lace a term used for, 26 ——— lace (Devonshire), 414 n¹¹⁵⁶ ——— and cord lace, 446. Braidwork, in imitation of Spanish point, 410 and n¹¹⁵⁹ Branscombe, lace-workers of, 409 n¹¹³⁸ Brazil, lace of, 108. Brazza, Contessa di, cited, 71 n²²², 75 n²³⁷, 78 n²⁴⁴; quoted, 75 n²³⁶; lace school under direction of, 81 n²⁴⁸ Bremen, refusal of, to receive strangers, 264 Brennar, Mr., 442 n¹²³² Brereton, Miss Elinor, 438 Bretagne, 229 and n⁶¹⁷ Bretschneider, A., 496 Briattes, Jean-Ph., 225 n⁶¹³ Bribes of lace, 351 n¹⁰⁴⁵ Bridal veils, 78 Bride ground. See Argentan ground. ——— lace, 302 and n⁸²⁹ Brides definition of, 31 and n⁹¹ Milanese lace, in, 75 n²³⁷ Spanish point, in, 58 thread guipures, in, 39, 40 vrai réseau the successor of, 406 Bridgewater Baptist Church, manifesto of, 403 and n¹¹⁴⁴ "Britannia Languens" (1680), cited, 54 and n¹⁸³, 192 Brittany, 229 and n⁶¹⁷ Brithnoth, exploits of, in embroidery, 6 Broderie des Indes, 229 ———— de Malines. See Mechlin lace Brooks, Mr., speech of, quoted, 329. Brotherton, Mr., invention of lace loom by, 432 n¹²¹² Brown, Rawdon, cited, 345 n¹⁰²⁵ Bruce, Mr. Collingwood, cited, 6 Bruges collection of lace at, 138 export trade with France, value of, 241 guipure de Flandres of, 123, 133 Valenciennes made at, character of, 232 n⁶²⁴ Brunet, H., cited, 161 n⁴⁷², 236 n⁶³³, 459, 461, 476; quoted, 466 Brunfaut, M. Duhayon, 131 and n³⁷⁴ Brussels lace Alençon, 200 application, rivalry of Mirecourt, 252 arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n³⁶⁵ branches of industry, 123 Brussels the only place for, 118 colour of, 121 compared with— Alençon, 199; Binche, 135; Lille, 237; point de France, 194; St. Trond, 137; Saxony needle point, 263 Cretan mesh work compared with, 87 designing of, 122 English Court fashion for, in George II.'s time, 354 exported as "English point," 117 flowers of, 121 grounds of, 120; Mechlin ground distinguished from, 125 Honiton imitations of, 405, 406, 410 made at Antwerp, 130; at Chimay, 135 manufacture described, 31, 118, 119; titles of workers of various processes in, 122 Marie Louise, Empress, presented with, 124 patterns of, 122; date of earliest patterns, 116 point de Bruxelles. See Point d'Angleterre popular establishment for English buyers, 124 price per pound, 119 n³³⁹; causes of high price, 118, 119; comparative cost of ground, 120; price of flounce of, 124 n³⁵² thread used in, 118 and n³³⁸; fineness of 119 n³³⁹ value of, from one pound of flax, 120; intrinsic value of, 124 n³⁵² veil of, presented to Empress Josephine, 123 n³⁵¹; smuggled, 361 Venetian wear of, 57 and n¹⁹² ———— -lace-makers, point de raccroc of, 120 ———— net, 120 n³⁴⁵ Bruyel, Nicholas de, 111 Buckingham, Duchess of, 345 n¹⁰²⁴ Buckinghamshire lace, 378-383; value of, 402 Buffon, ruffles of, 173 Bulgarini, Francesea, 68 and n²¹³ Bullock, Consul, quoted, 89 Bunt lace, 428 Buoy, lace seized in, 360 n¹⁰⁶⁶ Burano Alençon point made at, 62, 200 Argentan made at, 62, 208 English thread used at, 394 n¹¹²⁸ number of lace-workers at, 394 n¹¹²⁸ revival of lace industry at, 58-62 Burato, 53 Burgoigne, 205 n⁵⁷³, 216 n⁵⁹⁴ Burgundy, lace industry of, 255 and n⁶⁸⁴, n⁶⁸⁵; lace-makers from, in London, 373 ————, Duke of (Charles the Bold), 111 ————, Dukes of, inventory of, quoted, 82 ————, Duchess of, 167 n⁴⁹² Burke, Patrick, 323 Burnet, Bishop, quoted, 13 Burnham (Buckinghamshire), lace industry of, 379 Burning of badly-spun yarn, 432 and n¹²¹¹ Butterfly and acorn design, 308, 408 Byas, 299 and n⁸¹⁵ Byzantine Empire, origin of lace traced to, 45 Cabanillas, cited, 102 Cadenetas, 95 Calderwood, Mrs., cited, 127, 431; quoted, 118 and n³³⁷, 137, 260; Dresden ruffles of, 262 Caen black lace of, 226 blonde lace of, patterns, 224; quality, 224; rise and fall of industry, 225 Chantilly industry outrivalled by, 215; Chantilly made at, 224 number of lace-makers employed in (1847), 225; (after 1848), 228 n⁶¹⁴ price of lace of, 224 Cahanet, 226 Calais, machine-made blondes of, 225 Calepino, T., 474 Callot, engravings of, 146 Calthorpe, Lady, 37, 297 Calvados lace industry, 213, 223, 226, 228 and n⁶¹⁴, 257 n⁶⁸⁸ Cambray, Archbishop of, 173 and n⁵⁰⁸ Cambrensis, Giraldus, cited, 435 Cambury, Lord, 403 Campan, Mme. de, 180 n⁵³³ Campane, 34 and n¹⁰⁴, n¹⁰⁶, 51 Campanner, 343 n¹⁰¹⁷ Campany, cited, 99 Campos, Father Fr. Marcos Antonio de, quoted, 95 Candy, thread lace from, 38 Canetille, 36 "Canons," 153 and n⁴⁴¹ Canossa, Contessa, 469 Cant, Miss Anne, 430 n¹²⁰⁷ Cantor Lectures on the Art of Lace-making, cited, 2 n⁷ Cantu, lace-making at, 66, 80 Capefigue, quoted, 166 Card-sharping aided by ruffles, 171, 351 Cardinals, 356 and n¹⁰⁵⁹ Cardwell, Mr., 384 Carew, Sir G., 308 n⁸⁷⁰ Carpaccio, lace in pictures of, 47 Carpentier, Madame, 226 Carrêno, lace rare in paintings of, 98 Carrickmacross, lace industry at, 440 Carrouges, 206 Cartisan, 36 Cary, John, quoted, 849 n¹³²⁵ Castanaga, M. de, 167 Castlebar, lace industry at, 439 Catalonia, blonde made at, 101; blonde mantillas of, 88, 226 Catgut lace, 343, 430 n¹²⁰⁷ Catherine de Bourbon, 144, 482, 494 ————— of Braganza, 43 n¹³⁷ ————— de Médecis, bed of, 22 bizette of, 33 n¹⁰² Florentine lace probably introduced into France by, 67 lace-making at court of, 140 and n³⁹⁵ needlework of, 11 Vinciolo patronised by, 11, 17 Cattern's Day, 376 Cauellat, Veuve, 476 Cavenne, Citoyen, 137 n³⁹⁰ Cayette, V. P., cited, 140 n³⁹⁷ Cecil, letter from, regarding French tailors, quoted, 307 Cecyll, Richard, 291 Celle, D., 466 Cephalonia, Ionian lace at, 86 Cerceau, A. du, 476 Ceylon, pillow-laces of, 88 Challus, Anne, 184 n⁵⁴⁰ Chambrières, 8 Champagne, lace industry of, 253-255 Chandos, infant daughter of Duke of, 352 n¹⁰⁴⁶ ————, Lady, 294 n⁷⁹¹, 297 n⁸¹¹, 307 n⁸⁶², 308 n⁸⁶⁷ Channel Islands, lace industry in, 372 n¹⁰⁹⁸ Channon, Miss Mary, 398 "Chansons a toile", 8 and n²⁹ Chantilly number of lace-workers at Alençon and, (1851), 257 n⁶⁸⁸ point tresse made at, 314 ————— lace black, 226 Caen manufacture of, 224 Genoese imitation of, 75 industry of, 212-215 Saxony lace compared with, 263 Spanish silk laces contrasted with, 103 Spanish and Portuguese imitation of, 106 Charles I. (England) Carisbrook clothing expenses of, 372 n¹⁰⁹⁷ carpet bag trimmings of, 38, 298 extravagance of, 326, 327 and n⁹⁵⁰, 328 Great Wardrobe Account, quoted, 253 and n⁶⁷⁸, n⁶⁷⁹, 205 n⁶¹² marriage accounts, 296 period of, 326-332 picture catalogue of, cited, 296 ———— II. (England) Collobium sindonis of, 335 and n⁹⁸¹ Flanders lace, importation of, prohibited by, 125 foreign lace imported by, 336 and n⁹⁸⁵ period of, 335-339 silver parchment lace of, 38, 298 and n⁸⁴¹ ————, Prince (England), accounts of, cited, 322, 325 n⁹⁴⁰, n⁹⁴¹ ———— V. (Belgium) cap of, 113 lace-making encouraged by, 113 portrait of, in Quentell's pattern book, 459 ———— VIII. (France), 139 n³⁹³ ———— IX. (Sweden), 279 ———— X., 143 n⁴¹² ———— the Bold, 111 Charleville lace, 183 n⁵³⁹, 254 and n⁶⁸⁰ Charlotte, Queen Armada pattern lace of, 397 British lace worn by, 363, 398 favourite lace of, 128 lace industry started by, 374 sponsor to children of aristocracy, 352 n¹⁰⁴⁶ Charmouth, lace-workers at, 395 Charollais, Mlle. de, inventory of, quoted, 125 n³⁵³, 129 n³⁶⁴, 162 n⁴⁷⁵, 175 n⁵²⁰, 135 ruffles of, 233 n⁶²⁶ Chat, 181 and n⁵³⁶ Château de Madrid, lace factory at, 158, 210 and n⁵⁸⁴ ———— -Renaud lace, 254 ———— -Thierry, lace industry at, 157 n⁴⁵⁹, 253 Châtel-sur-Moselle, 251 and n⁶⁷¹ Châtelain, Simon, 100 and n²⁸⁷ —————, Zacharie, 259 Chaucer, quoted, 15 and n⁵⁰ Chaumont, 251 n⁶⁷³ Chauvin, Pierre, 230 Cheney, lace industry at, 384 Chesterfield, Lord, quoted, 358 Cheveux de la reine, 181 and n⁵³⁵ Chevreuse, Madame de, 168 Cheyne lace, 438 Chiavari Macramé of, 79 tape guipure of, 75 Chicago Exhibition. See under Exhibitions Chichester, Lady Hamilton, 87 and n²⁶² Chick, Mrs., 407 n¹¹⁵³ Chigi-Giovanelli, Princess, 61 Children as lace-makers, 103 n³⁰⁵, 107, 155, 209, 377, 438 Chili lace, 108 Chimay lace, 134-135 China drawn work of, 46 silk lace not in demand in, 89 ———, lace exchanged for, 349 Choïsy, Abbé de, 167 Christening shirts of Queen Elizabeth's reign, 308 and n⁸⁷² Christian IV. of Denmark, 68, 272-274 Christina, Queen, 73 n²³⁰ Church of England appointment of parsons of, for reform of lace-making abuses, 331 inventories of, lace mentioned in, 293 ruffs worn by Bishops, 318; sermons against ruffs, 316 ——— of France, extravagance of prelates (Louis XVI.), 182-183 Churchill, Lord, 403 Cibber, Colley, cited, 344 n¹⁰²¹ Cicognara, Count, 467 and n¹²⁸⁶ Ciglia family, Maltese lace made by, 88 Cinq Mars, boots and collarette of, 145 Ciprioto, 82 n²⁵² Cistercians, 7 "City Match," quoted, 324 Clarke, Jane, 443 n¹²³³ Claver, Alice, 288 Clayton, Sir Thomas, accounts of, quoted, 350 Clement VII., Pope, 62 ———— IX., Pope, 70 ———— X., Pope, 172 n⁵⁰⁵ Clément, M., 226 Clermont, Mlle. de, inventory of, quoted 128 n³⁶³, 195 n⁵⁶⁰, 207 n⁵⁷⁸ Clonard Abbey, effigy in, 437 n¹²²² Clones, lace and crochet industry of, 445 Cluny, Musée de, punto a relievo in, 51 ——— lace Le Puy Fabric, 246 n⁶⁵⁹ Mirecourt fabric, 252 Coccolia, lace school at, 81 n²⁴⁹ Cochon, cited, 256 n⁶⁸⁶ Cock (fontange), 423 ——, Hieronymus, 493 n¹³⁵⁴ Cockscombes, 344 Code Michaud, 148 Coggeshall (Essex), lace made at, 441 n¹²³⁰ Coigny, Duchesse de, 123 n³⁵¹ "Col rabattu," 145 Colbert, Chevalier Aurillac lace of, 248 chief director of trade, 158 n⁴⁶¹ death of, 192 development of lace industry by, 154; extract from letter to M. le Comte d'Avaux, 155 difficulties in establishing lace factories, 158 and n⁴⁶¹, n⁴⁶² fabrics attempted by, 255, 256 fabrics established by, at Arras, 239 and n⁶⁴⁴ Aurillac, 247 Château de Madrid, 158, 210 n⁵⁸⁴ Le Quesnoy, 230 Loudun, 256 Huguenots protected by, 100 inventory of, quoted, 218 n⁵⁹⁶, 259 n⁶⁹² Mazarin, correspondence with, concerning lace, referred to, 150-151 ordinance of, 54 point d'Alençon established by, 188 points de France, established by, 33, 111 Raffy, Madame, letter from, quoted, 202 Colbertine, 337, 339 and n⁹⁹⁶, n⁹⁹⁷, n⁹⁹⁸ Colchester, complaints of, regarding foreign lace-makers, 324 n⁹³⁵ Cole, A. S. cited, 91-92 and n²⁶⁸, 446 n¹²³⁶; quoted, 193 n⁵⁵⁵, 203 n⁵⁷⁰ Kinsale lace revival due to, 442 and n¹²³² Collaert, engraving by, 109 n³¹⁹ Collars, hunting, 328 Collectors of lace, 364 Cologne pattern book, 268 Colombière, Vulson de la, quoted, 73, 149 and n⁴³⁵ Colporteurs, lace sold by, 44 and n¹⁴², n¹⁴³ Colyton military thieves at, 403 tomb in church of, 403 n¹¹⁴⁵ Commode. See Fontange Commonwealth, the, needlework in the time of, 13 Compas lace, 297 and n⁸⁰⁹ Compton, Lord, cited, 296 n⁸⁰⁰ Conclave, the holy, laces of, 70 Condé, Princesse de, inventory of, quoted, 125 n³⁵⁵, 161 n⁴⁶⁸, 168 n⁴⁹⁶, 169 n⁴⁹⁷, 174 n⁵¹⁹, n⁵²⁰, 195 n⁵⁵⁸ Congreve, cited, 344 n¹⁰²¹; quoted, 339 Contarini, Lucretia, 476, 484 Conti, Prince de, marriage-toilette of, 161-162 and n⁴⁷² point d'Aurillac cloak of, 248 Contrada del Pizzo, 59 Connet, lace trade at, 270. Cooke, quoted, 414 Copper lace (St. Martin's), 331 n⁹⁶⁵ Coral point, 51 Coralline, Point de Venise copied from, 49-50 Cordonnet, 87, 406, 408 Corfu, Greek lace made at, 85 Cork, crochet industry of, 444, 445 "Corona" of Vecellio. See Vecellio Cotgrave, quoted, 33 n¹⁰², 36 n¹¹² Cotton lace, 187 ——— weaving, at Ghent, 134 Couronne (picot), 31 and n⁹² Courtrai, flax grown at, 118 n³³⁸ ———— lace. See under Valenciennes lace Cousin, Jean, 476 Couvin lace, 138 n³⁹² Covenanters, sumptuary enactments of, 424 Coventry blue, 302 Cow-houses, lace worked in lofts over, 224 Cowper, quoted, 364, 370, 379 Coxcombs, 31 Cranfield, Sir Lyonell, cited, 324 n⁹³⁴ Crâponne fabric, 246 Cravat, laced introduction of, 337 origin of, 42 n¹³⁵ stock the successor of, 345 Creaden, the Queen of, 437 n¹²²³ Créquy, M. de, 143 ———, Madame de, quoted, 175 ———, Marquise de, quoted, 173 n⁵¹¹, 250 and n⁶⁶⁸ Crete, lace manufacture of, 86-87 Crochet, Irish, 444-445 ———— hook used in Genoese guipures, etc., 74 ———— needle, used in Punto di Rapallo, 75 n²³⁷ Cromwell, Oliver, dress of, 333, 334 Crown lace, 299 and n⁸¹⁴ Croïy, Duc de, 366 n¹⁰⁸³ Crusaders, art of lace-making, traced to, 45 n¹⁴⁸ Cuença, 246 Cuipure (guipure), 37 Culpepper, Sir John, quoted, 318-319 Cunningham, quoted, 308 n⁸⁶⁶ Curragh point, 443 and n¹²³³ Curtius, M., 143 and n⁴¹² "Custom of the Country" quoted, 324 Cut-work ecclesiastical use of, 15 Elizabeth's use of, 303-305 Italian, 325 James I.'s time, 322, 325 lace known as, 2 name explained, 19 pall of, used in Dieppe, 25 Ricci's "Last Supper" depicted in, 79 n²⁴⁸ smocks adorned with, 25 toile d'honneur of, use at St. Lo, 25 Cyprus, needlework of, 82 d'Abranthès, Duchesse, 105, 128 n³⁴³, 185 n⁵⁴², 186 and n⁵⁴⁵, 237 n⁶³⁸ d'Addo, Marquis, 459 n¹²⁶⁴, 467 n¹²⁸⁷, n¹²⁸⁸, 469 n¹²⁹⁴, 470, 472, 475, 476 and n¹³¹⁵, 477 Daedalian ruffs, 315 and n⁸⁹⁵ Daimeries, Mme., quoted, 138 n³⁹² Dalecarlian lace, 68, 281, 282, 338 Dalrymple, Miss Jenny, 263 Dalton, Mother Augustine, 444 Damer, Mr., 364 Dammartin lace, 212 Dangean, quoted, 167, 178 Dantelle (dentelle), first occurrence of word, 490 d'Aranda, Madame, 98 n²⁸⁰ Darned netting, 20, 21 Dartmouth, Lord, 379 Dauphin, ceremony at birth of, 162 n⁴⁷⁴ Davies, Barber Surgeon, quoted, 70 Davies' Epigrams quoted, 323 n⁹³³ Davey, Mrs., 409 Dawson, Mrs., 446 n¹²³⁵ de la Motte, Maréchal, 29, 126 and n³⁵⁷ de Lonlay, Eugène, cited, 208 de Staël, Madame, 180 Deaf and dumb, net lace used by, in Sardinia, 81 n²⁴⁸ Debts for lace, 353 and n¹⁰⁵⁰. Decker, T., quoted, 315 n⁸⁹⁵ Defoe, quoted, 43 n¹⁴⁰, 171 n⁵⁰³, 377 and n¹¹¹¹, 378, 379, 380 and n¹¹¹⁹, 396, 397, 403; cited, 344 Delaney, Mrs., quoted, 120 n³⁴⁴, 121, 355; cited, 413 n¹¹⁶¹ Denbert, Bishop of Durham, 6 Denmark cut-work of, 276, 277 embroidered tulle of, 229 grave-clothes, lace adorned in, 275, 366 and n¹⁰⁸² lace industry. (See also Schleswig and Tönder) export trade, 274 n⁷³⁶ lace postmen, 274, 277 origin of, 272 protected by Christian IV., 274 quality of lace, 275 Wulff's revival of, 276 and n⁷³⁹ Dennistoun, Mrs., 58-59, 487 Denny, Lady Arabella, 437, 438 and n¹²²⁵, 439 and n¹²²⁷ Dentelière, work of, 122 Dentelle, definition of term, 27 and n⁸⁰ ———— à la Reine, 259 and n⁶⁹² ———— à la Vierge, 220 "Dépit Amoureux" quoted, 32 Derby Alice, Countess of, effigy of, 321 n⁹²⁷ ———, Lady, 342 ——— rib, 448 n¹²³⁹ Derbyshire, pillow lace made in, 393 Derode, V., quoted, 236 n⁶³⁰, n⁶³³ Desborough, lace industry of, 379 Desmarquets, cited, 219 n⁶⁰³ Desmond, Countess of, 437 n¹²²² Desnos, Joseph Odolant, quoted, on establishment of point d'Alençon, 155 n⁴⁵⁵ ———, Odolent, quoted, on invention and establishment of point d'Alençon, 155-157 Despierres, Mme., quoted, 157 n⁴⁵⁷, n⁴⁵⁸, 159 n⁴⁶⁴, 195 n⁵⁵⁷, 204 n⁵⁷¹, 307; cited, 192 n⁵⁵², 203 d'Este, Madame Anne Bellorio, 61 family, auctions of, cited, 46 Devonshire bone pins used in, 294 lace of. See Honiton, Trolly villages in, noted for lace-making in 1698, 403 n¹¹⁴³; those now engaged in, 403 n¹¹⁴⁷ —————, Duke of, coffin of, searched for lace, 360 —————, Duke of, Jacobite lace brought to, 426 Diamond lace, 299-300 and n⁸¹⁸ "Diarium Vadstenœnse" 278 Didot, F., 487 Dieppe cut-work, pall used in, 25 lace industry of, 218-220, 223 ——— lace, 183 n⁵³⁹ Dieudonné— quoted, 225 n⁶¹³, 231; cited 237 n⁶³⁹ Dijon, Valenciennes made at, 255 Dike, Ric. 319 n⁹¹⁸ Dinant muslin-work, 138 n³⁹² Dinghen, Madame, 311 Doddridge, Lady, effigy of, 405 Doge's horn in Italian laces, 66 Dogs as lace-smugglers, 116 and n³²⁹ Dolls dressed in French fashions, 170 and n⁵⁰⁰, n⁵⁰¹ "Don Quixote," cited, 98 n²⁸¹ Donat, Père, 501 Donchéry lace, 254 Doran, Dr., anecdote related by, 186 Dorsetshire lace, 396-398; value of, 402 Dorstats, Madame Catherine von, 497 Douairière de la Ferté, Duchesse, 175-176 Double ground, 386 Douce, Mrs., cited, 500 n¹³⁶⁶ Douglas, Bp., letters of, quoted, 265 and n⁷²⁰ Dover, refugee lace-makers at, 324 n⁹³⁵ "Down," 390 Draper, Mrs., 13 Drawn-work, method of, 25 Sicilian, 81 South American, 188 wire, 72 Dresden lace, 262, 263, 430 and n¹²⁰⁷ Drocheleuse, work of, 122 Droschel, 119 Drouais, 168 Dryden, quoted, 425 Du Barry, Madame accounts of, quoted, 34 n¹⁰⁶, 120 and n³⁴¹, n³⁴³, n³⁴⁴, 126 n³⁵⁶, 129 n³⁶⁴, 162 n⁴⁷⁵, 168 n⁴⁹⁶, 175 n⁵²⁰, 178 n⁵²⁹, 181 n⁵³⁴, 195, 207 and n⁵⁷⁷, 231 and n⁶²¹, n⁶²², 233 n⁶²⁵, n⁶²⁶ Indian muslin bought by, 179 inventories of, quoted, 213 n⁵⁹², 250 n⁶⁶⁶, n⁶⁶⁷ Du Haillan, 142 n⁴⁰⁸ Dublin Society, The, 429, 437-439 Dubois, C., cited, 137 n³⁸⁹, 138 n³⁹² ———, 468 Duchesse lace, 123 Dulaure, cited, 173 and n⁵¹³ Dumont, manufactory of, 211 ———, Mlle., 105 n³¹² Dunbar, Mrs., 443 Dunkirk, James II.'s cap in Museum at, 340 and n¹⁰⁰⁴ Duponchel (Du Ponchel), 205, 207 n⁵⁷⁶ Dupont, M., cited, 204 Duras, Duc de, 207 n⁵⁷⁷ ———, Duchesse de, 213 and n⁵⁹¹ Duref Henri, cited, 247 Durham, St. Cuthbert's cope and maniple at, 7; his grave-clothes, 14, 15, 366 Durie, Lord, engraving of, 423 Dussen, B. v. d., cited, 133 and n³⁷⁸ Duthie, Mlle., 181 Duval, M., 224 Dysart, Countess of, 344 n⁹⁹¹ "Each," 391 Eagle (French vessel), seizure of, 101 Earnings and wages of lace-workers Alençon, 192 Arras (1788), 239; (1851), 240 Bedfordshire, 377 blonde-workers, 225 Denmark (1848), 277 n⁷⁴¹ Devonshire, 414, 416 n¹¹⁶⁸; Honiton, 407 and n¹¹⁵³ Dorsetshire, 398 Flemish thread-spinners', 119 France, average (1851), 257 n⁶⁸⁸; their savings, 159 n⁴⁶⁴ Genoa, 77, 78 Mechlin, 127 Mirecourt, 252 n⁶⁷⁵, 253 Normandy, 223, 228 n⁶¹⁴ Northamptonshire (Spratton), 390 Scotland, 434 Spain, 102 Switzerland, 270 Val, 233, 234 n⁶²⁷ Vélay, 244 Ypres Valenciennes, 131 n³⁷³ Eaton, John, 336 ———, Prestwick, letters from, cited, 98 n²⁸² Ecclesiastical lace Athenian—for Jewish Church, 86 Burano school allowed to copy, 62 decline of, since the Reformation, 331 Greek, 83 Ionian, 86 Italian, 47 and n¹⁵⁴ Katherine of Aragon's work of, 376 and n¹¹⁰⁸ Maltese, 88 Scotch, 418, 419 Spanish, 90, 92 washing of, 373 n¹¹⁰¹ Ecouen lace, 210 n⁵⁸⁹ Eden, Mrs., 443 Edgithe, Queen, 6 Edict of Nantes, Revocation of effect on lace industry (France and other countries), 192, 212, 254, 258 settlement of fugitives in Germany, 264-265 Edinburgh Society for Encouraging the Arts and Manufactures of Scotland, 262, 263, 429, 430 and nn Edward the Elder, daughters of, 6 Edward III. pins for his daughter's trousseau, 294 n⁷⁹⁴ thread veils of time of, 285. Edward IV. Irish smock of, 436 wardrobe accounts of, quoted, 288 Edward VI., funeral lace of, 293 Effingham, Dowager Lady, 349 —————, Earl of, 364 Egenolffs, C., 470 Egyptians (Ancient), embroidery of, 1 Ekenmark, cited, 280 n⁷⁴⁸ Elberfeld, 265 Eleanor of Austria, 262 n⁷⁰¹ Elgin marbles, designs in, 3 Elizabeth, Princess (wife of Elector Palatine), 71, 325 ————— of Austria (Elisabetta Borbona d'Austria), 495 ————— of Bohemia, 294 n⁷⁹⁴ ————— of Denmark, 272 —————, Queen anecdote referring to, 38, 297 cost of lace for revels at court of, 308 n⁸⁷¹ cut-work of, 303-305 false hair of, 314 and n⁸⁹⁴, n⁸⁹⁵ foreign tastes of, 305, 307, 310 Irish at court of, 435 laces of, 299-300; lace made from human hair, 313; Genoa and Spanish lace, 307; parchment lace, 298; cost of lace furnished to, 308 New Year's gifts to, 294 n⁷⁹¹, 295, 303 n⁸³³, 304 n⁸³⁴, n⁸³⁵, n⁸³⁶, n⁸³⁷, 307 and n⁸⁶², 308 n⁸⁶⁷, n⁸⁷⁰, 310 n⁸⁷⁵, n⁸⁷⁶ old clothes of, presented to Anne of Denmark, 320 presents to, from Mary Stuart, 420 and n¹¹⁸⁴; from the Baroness Aletti, 421 n¹¹⁸⁷ ruffs of, 310-313; 316 n⁹⁰¹ skill of, in needlework, 500 smock made by, 10 and n³²; smocks of, 308, 408 stocking-frame inventor discouraged by, 448 n¹²⁴⁰ wardrobe accounts of, cited, 72; quoted, 92, 98 n²⁸², 297 and n⁸¹¹, 299 and n⁸¹⁴, n⁸¹⁵, n⁸¹⁶, n⁸¹⁷, 300-301 and n⁸²⁰, n⁸²¹, n⁸²⁴, n⁸²⁶, 302 and n⁸²⁷, 304 n⁸³⁴, n⁸³⁸, 307 and n⁸⁶¹, n⁸⁶⁵, 309 n⁸⁷³, 311 n⁸⁸⁰, 312 n⁸⁸², 314 n⁸⁹⁵, 372 n¹⁰⁹⁸ —————, reign of christening shirts and bearing cloths of, 308-309 habits of people in, 310 n⁸⁷⁷ importation of pins (annual) in, 294 n⁷⁹⁴ lace, use of, in, 300 laced handkerchiefs of, 310 and n⁸⁷⁴ measures against luxury of the people, 301 sumptuary laws, 306 and n⁸⁵⁵ value of lace and thread imported (1559 and 1568), 306 and n⁸⁵⁹ Venice lace of, 48 and n¹⁵⁴ ————— of York, Queen, 9 n³⁰, 48, 289 Elliott, Julian, 328 Embroider, Italian and Spanish term for, 45 and n¹⁴⁷ Embroidery Anglo-Saxon, 5-7 Babylonian, Sidonian and Phrygian, 3 and n¹³ drawn-thread work, 25 ecclesiastical, 4-7. Egyptian, 1 Greek, 2, 3 and n⁸ Jewish, 2 Spanish, 103 Embroidered lace, Genoese, 77 Engageantes, 168 Enghien lace, 134 "Engines" for lace-making, 324 n⁹³⁵ England (for counties, towns, etc., see their titles) French fashions, method of obtaining, 170 frugality of nation, in Queen Elizabeth's reign, 310 n⁸⁷⁷ lace in account of (See also names of sovereigns), 285 et seq. date of establishment of industry, 286-288; origin of, 111; centres of, before 1665, 44 n¹⁴⁴; impossibility of competing with Belgium, 138 earliest mention of, 285 Flanders, trade with (1768), 115; Flemish lace. See that title foreign, prohibited, 125, 289-290, 341, 347; imported, 245, 251, 288, 291 smuggling of. See that title Protestant refugees in, trades of, 297-298 Reformation, decline of ecclesiastical lace since, 331 sumptuary laws. See that title Vinciolo published in, 482 Engrêlure, 31, 168 n⁴⁹⁶ Entoilage, 30, 250 Épinal, 251 Equipage de bain, 168 Eric XIV. (Sweden), 307 Ericksholm, 280 ————— Castle, 279 Erikson, Gustaf, 280 Erzgebirge lace, 263 Essex, Earl of, 401 Este, Madame Anne Belloris, d', 61 —— family, archives of, cited, 46 Etrepagny lace, 213 n⁵⁸⁹ Eu lace, 183 n⁵³⁹, 218, 221-222 Eugénie, Empress, 198 Evans, Mrs., 308 n⁸⁶⁹ Evelyn, quoted, 13, 43, 168 n⁴⁹⁶, 338, 339; cited, 57 Exeter, Bishop of, 316 ———, Elizabeth, Duchess of, 285 n⁷⁵⁵ Exhibitions Chicago World's Fair Honiton lace at, 416 n¹¹⁶⁹ Italian lace at, 46 n¹⁵⁰ Colonial and Indian Exhibition (1886), Cyprian lace at, 82 Industry, 1808, point d'Argentan at, 208 (1851), Alençon flounce at, 197-198; lace industry developed since, 392 (1855) (Paris) Alençon point dress at, 198 equipage of King of Rome at, 196 needle-point dress at, 245 (1859) (French). Report—cost of Brussels lace, 119 n³³⁹ (1862) (International) Spanish exhibits at, 103-104 threads, comparative fineness of, 119 n³³⁹ Wadstena lace at, 280 1867 (Paris) Alençon point dress at, 200 Burano laces at, 58 Honiton lace at, 410 macramé shown at, 79 Mechlin lace at, 125 oyah at, 87 point gaze at, 123 Valenciennes lace at, 131 and n³⁷³ 1874 (International) Austrian lace at, 268 Brussels lappet at, 411 Russian towels at, 283 Valenciennes lace at, 131 1889, point d' Alençon at, 201 1900 (Paris), 268 Eyesight, effect of lace-making on, 112 n³²⁴ Fairfax, Sir Thomas, 333 Fairs, 43 and n¹³⁶, n¹³⁷, n¹⁴⁰, 326 n⁹⁴⁵ Falbala, 167 and n⁴⁹² Falcon, T., 246 Fallals, 350 and n¹⁰⁴³ Falling bands, 321 n⁹²⁸, 322, 326, 327, 334, 336 Fambri, Signor, 61 "Fameuse poupée," 170 Fanciulle, 462 Fanshaw, Lady, quoted, 333 Farbeck, John, 300 Favier-Duboulay, correspondence of, with Colbert, re lace industry at Alençon, 155 and n⁴⁵⁴, 189 Feather-stitch, 8 Fécamp lace, 218 Félibien, D. M., quoted, 141 n⁴⁰² Félice, G. de, quoted, 150 n⁴³⁷ Félin Narciso, quoted, 91, 99 Felkin, Mr., cited, 447 Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain, 92, 93, 96 Feret quoted, 219 and n⁶⁰⁴ Ferguson, Mr., cited, 250 and n⁶⁶⁵ Fernandez, Don Manuel, 102 Ferrara archives of, quoted, 46 and n¹⁵⁰ Venetian lace-worker at, 78 n²⁴³ Fielding quoted, 354 n¹⁰⁵³ Filet brodé à reprises, 20 Fillesae, Marie, 157 n⁴⁵⁸ Fillings, 31 Filo di freta (See also Aloe thread), 79 n²⁴⁵ Firenzuola cited, 46 n¹⁵², 47, 57 n¹⁷²; quoted, 66 and n²⁰⁷ Fisher, Bishop, 292 Fitz-Geoffrey (Geffery), Henry, quoted, 317 n⁹⁰⁸, 332 Flanders emigration of lace-makers from, preventive legislation, 111-112; emigrants in London, 373; in Bedfordshire and Buckinghamshire, 375 and n¹¹⁰⁵; in Devonshire, 399 and nn, 400 n¹¹⁴⁰; expelled from England (1572), 306 lace. See Flemish lace. lace school in, description of, 114-115 Spanish imports of dentelles d'Angleterre from, 98 thread imported from, complaint regarding, 324 n⁹³⁵ water-glass reflectors used in, 390 n¹¹²⁵ ————, East, lace of, 133-134 ————, West lace workers of, 133 and n³⁷⁸ Valenciennes lace of. See Valenciennes Flax age of, 259 n⁶⁹⁷ cotton substituted for, 187 spinning of, in damp cellars, 405 Fleming, Lady, 10 Flemish lace. (See also Belgium and Brabant) arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n³⁶⁵ Barcelona lace imitated from, 91, 99 black lace exported, 117 n³³⁰ cargo of smuggling vessel (1678), 117 coffin containing, 61 Danish imitation of, 275 England bribes for Jacobites in, 351 n¹⁰⁴⁵ exportation to, prohibited, 125, 341 fashionable in, 318, 325, 327, 340 imitations in, 384, 404; Honiton reproductions, 411, 416 trade with (1768), 115 France, popularity in (Louis XIV.), 150; trade (seventeenth century), annual value of, in passemens, 209 n⁵⁸³; prohibited, 142 importance of industry of, 111 Liège, 136-137 "Malines," a term for, 125 origin of, 109 types of, 115-116 white work, 294 and n⁷⁹¹ Flemish names in Colyton (Devon), 403 n¹¹⁴⁵ Fleurens, 270 Fleury, Cardinal, quoted, 176 Florence gold lace from, Spanish exclusion of, 92 Greek lace made at, 85 industrial schools in, lace work of, 81 n²⁴⁸ lace industry of, account of, 66-68; "fine dantelle de," 27 Le Puy, imports from, 245 n⁶⁵⁷ Florentine merchants, allowed to trade in England (circ. 1546), 291 Florini, M., 488 Flying Postman advertisement in, 129 "Flys," 416 n¹¹⁷⁰ Foillet, J., 489, 490 Fonneuse, work of, 122 Fontange (Commode) "cock" the Scotch term for, 423 description of, 168 n⁴⁸⁶, 342, 350 n¹⁰⁴³ extinction of mode, 166, 348 and n¹⁰³⁵ story of, 164 Fontana, Lavinia, lace in picture by, 47 n¹⁵³ Fontenay, lace, 212 n⁵⁸⁹ Fontenelle le Liqueur, 229 and n⁶¹⁵ Fonthill, sale of lace at, 162 n⁴⁷⁵ Foote, quoted, 171 n⁵⁰³ Footing, 31, 168 n⁴⁹⁶ Forbes, Miss Betsey, 432 n¹²⁰⁹ Forçade, M. de la, cited, 340 n¹⁰⁰⁴ Force, P. de la, cited, 254 and n⁶⁸² Foresto, I., 471 Fortunato, P. A., 500 Foskewe, Sir John, 22 Four P's, The, cited, 43 n¹³⁹ Fournier, quoted, 209 n⁵⁸³ "Fourpenny Spot," 372 n¹⁰⁹⁵ Fowke, Mr., cited, 6 and n²³ Fowler, Mrs., lace school of, 416 and n¹¹⁶⁹ Fozzi, P. P., 491 France. For districts, towns, etc., see their titles bobbin net introduced into, 187 customs of French ladies, 168-170 états Généraux (1789), action of, regarding lace, 183 extravagant cost of lace ornaments (Louis XIV.), 153 Fairs in, 43 n¹³⁶ Fashions fashion dolls, 170 and n⁵⁰⁰, n⁵⁰¹ Italian influence on, 139 and n³⁹³ Louis XIV., under, 167 first appearance of lace in, 139 n³⁹³ First Empire Brussels lace at court of, 123 lace industry under, 184 morning costume under, 185 point d'Alençon patterns under, 199 and n⁵⁶⁶ Florentine lace used in (1545), 67 imports of lace from, to England, forbidden by Queen Anne, 347 Italian guipures exported to, 75 Italy, relations with (16th century), 476 lace industry in. See French lace industry lace-makers from, brought to teach Scotch girls, 428 ladies, addiction of, to needlework, 9, 24; as lace-makers, 163 men as embroiderers in, 13 point d'Espagne consumed in, 90; made in, 100 points de Venise from, 54 Quintain named from Brittany town, 19 lace industry improved by, 383 refugees from, to Channel Islands, 372 n¹⁰⁹⁸; to England, 324 n⁹³⁵ Revolution in, effect of, on lace trade, 183 and n⁵³⁹, 223, 249, 368, 408 Second Empire, point d'Alençon patterns under, 199 Spanish imports of lace from, 101 sumptuary laws in, 138 and n³⁵⁴, n³⁵⁵, 147 and n⁴²⁹, 149, 154 and n⁴⁵¹ tariff (1664), Liège lace mentioned in, 137 war with, effect of, on English lace industry, 386, 387 yellow starch, attitude towards, 318 and n⁹⁰⁹ France and Navarre, Queen of, pattern book dedicated to, 493 Franceschi, Francesco di, 475, 484 Francis I. Aurillac lace of, 247 pattern book dedicated to, 461 Frankfort-on-the-Maine fair at, 43 n¹³⁶, 326 n⁹⁴⁵ pattern book published at, 267 Frano, G., 477 Frederick, Prince of Wales, 354 ————— IV., 274 ————— William of Brandenburg, 264 French lace industry centres of, before 1665, 44 n¹⁴⁴ cheap lace, 187 and n⁵⁴⁶ Colbert's development establishment and history of the company (1668-1675), 157-158 establishment of point d'Alençon, 155-157 immigration of Venetian workers, 159 n⁴⁶⁵ principal centres, 159 n⁴⁶⁴ pupils sent to Venice, 154-155 and n⁴⁵⁴ First Empire, under, 184 foreign trade Bruges, annual value of, with, 241; with Flanders, 209 n⁵⁸³; Valenciennes trade with Belgium, 132 n³⁷⁶ Germany, with, 265 prohibition of, with Flanders, 142 rivalry of Holland in, 258 smuggling from Belgium, 116; from Switzerland, 270 statistics regarding (18th century), 160 n⁴⁶⁶ number of lace-makers in (present day), 188; table of (1851), 257 n⁶⁸⁸ Paris lace-workers, confirmation of statutes of, 150 n⁴³⁷ pattern books, 144 and n⁴²⁰, n⁴²¹, n⁴²², n⁴²³ patterns imitated in Denmark, 275 pillow lace manufacture, extension of (17th century), 159 point d'Espagne, 100 Protestants prohibited from selling lace, 150 n⁴³⁷ varieties of lace made in (1665), 33-35 width of lace restricted, 152-153 Freyburg, 268 Freytag, G., quoted, 265 n⁷¹⁸ Friesland hens, ladies likened to, 342 Frondeurs, extravagance of, 150 Froschover, Christopher, pattern book of, 271 Fugio lace, 74 Fuller, quoted, 378, 401 Furnesse, Sir Henry, 344, 347 Fuseaux, dentelle à, 32 n⁹⁸ Gabrielle de Bourbon, 8 n²⁸ —————, Madame, 49, 142, 143 and n⁴¹³, n⁴¹⁴, n⁴¹⁵ Gaguef lace, 281 Gan, Le, quoted, 24 Gantes, Mlles., 250 Garden, Lord, quoted, 119 Garnica, John de, 113 n³²⁵ Garnier, Joseph, cited, 255 n⁶⁸⁵ Garnitures de lit, 174 and n⁵¹⁹, n⁵²⁰ Garters Queen Elizabeth's cost per pair, 301 trimmed with point, 145 Gaston, Duke of Orleans, 8 n²⁷ Gaudronnées collerettes, 17 Geneva, rivalry of, with Mirecourt, 252 Genoa Albergo de' Poveri, macramé made at, 79 collars of, 74 earnings of lace-workers, 77, 78 embroidered lace of, 77; embroidered tulle, 229 gold work of, 47, 72 guipures of, 74 lace of Cardinal Mazarin's purchase of, 150, 151 Honiton reproduction of, 411 point de Gênes, 41, 42, 72, 73 and n²³⁰, 74 Queen Elizabeth's, 307 and n⁸⁶⁵ lace trade in, chiefly pillow, 47, 74; decline of, 74 silk work of, 72 sumptuary laws in, 73 Tessada, Signore, old lace of, 72 n²²⁵ Genoa, Duchess of, 78 n²⁴⁴ Gentili family, bridal veil made for, 78 Geometrical patterns cuffs of (Queen Mary's), 113 Cretan, 86 Greek lace, 20, 85 ruffs of, 316 Swedish, 25 Vecellio's, 111 Vinciolo's, 18 George I. Mechlin cravat of, 126 and n³⁶¹ period of, 351-353 wardrobe account of, 240 and n⁶⁴⁵ ——— II., period of, 354-357 ——— III. English manufactures protected by, 359, 363 and n¹⁰⁶⁸, 381 period of, 363-370 sponsor to children of aristocracy, 352 n¹⁰⁴⁶ ——— IV., wardrobe of, 364 n¹⁰⁷³ Geharts, C., 501 Germany fairs in, 43 n¹³⁶, n¹⁴⁰ guipures imported into, 36 lace imported into, 245, 251, 254 lace industry centres of, before 1665, 44 n¹⁴⁴ export trade with France, 265 North and South Edict of Nantes Revocation—emigration of fugitives into, 264-265 religion of lace-workers, 264 sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, 264 Nuremberg (See that title) origin of, 111 pattern-books, 266-268 Saxony (see that title) luxury, outbreak of, 265-266 Geslin, Simon, 193 Gespeldewerkte kant, 32 n⁹⁸ Ghent lace Brussels lace compared with, 118 manufacture of, 133-134 trade replaced by cotton-weaving, 134 Valenciennes made at Ghent, character of, 231 n⁶²⁴ Ghisolieri, La Signora Silveria Rossi, 484 Gibbons, Grinling, lace carvings of, 367 and n¹⁰⁸⁸ Gibson, Sir Alexander, engraving of, 423 ———, Miss Mary, 438 Gigliucci, Countess, fragment of drawn work possessed by, 69 Gilbert, Madame, 155 and n⁴⁵⁵, 156, 157 and n⁴⁵⁸ Gimp Brussels lace, in, 406 method of making, 33 silk, at Ragusa, 84 Gioiello, 486 Giraldini, Catherina, 500 Gisors lace industry, 209, 213 n⁵⁸⁹, 215 Glairo, Mlle. U., 235 Glandore, Lord, 436 Glen, Jean de, 136, 482, 488 and n¹³³⁸ ——, Miss, 431 n¹²⁰⁹ Gloucester, Duchess of, lace collection of, 369 Gloves, laced, 337 and n⁹⁹¹ Goats' hair lace, 245 Godard, Jean, quoted, 24, 146 n⁴²⁵ Goderonné, term explained, 17 n⁵⁷ Godric, 6 Gohory, Anne, 183 n⁵⁴⁰ Golbertain (Colbertine), 339 n⁹⁹⁶ Golconda, King of, 322 n⁹²⁸, 329 and n⁹⁵⁸ Gold lace (See also Aurillac lace) Arras, of, 240 England, imported to fifteenth-sixteenth centuries, 288, 289, 307 monopoly in, under James I., 318 prohibited, by Queen Anne, 349; by George II., 355 n¹⁰⁵⁷; confiscation and burning of, 359 France, popularity in, 139, 141, 146, 154; of Paris, 211-212 Genoa, wearing prohibited in, 73 Hamburg, of, 264 Holland, introduction into, 259 India, imported into, 322 n⁹²⁸, 329 and n⁹⁵⁸ Ireland, importation to, prohibited, 439 Jewish manufacture of, 92 Lyons, of, 256 Ragusa, at, 84 Russia, of, 283 Scotland, wearing in, prohibited, 422 Sicily, of, 80 Spain, of, 92, 100-102, 248 Sweden, of, 280 Zurich, of, 271 —— guipure work, Swedish, 277-278 —— purles, 330 —— thread duties on, leased to Dame Villiers, 328 Italian (fourteenth century), 72 —— wire, protest by handspinners of, 335 Golden Horn, 273 Goldoni, cited, 57 n¹⁹² Goldsmith, quoted, 70 n²¹⁸ Gomberdière, Marquis de la, quoted, 209 and n⁵⁸² Gonzales, Don Manuel, cited, 380 and n¹¹²⁰, 403 n¹¹⁴⁶ Gooding, James, 413, 414 Gorget (whisk), 334 Gormont, 464 Goudronné, term explained, 17 n⁵⁷ Gozo, Maltese lace made at, 88 Grafton, Duchess of, 344 n¹⁰²¹, 349 n¹⁰³⁷ Gramite, 46 n¹⁵⁰ Grammont lace, 134 Granada, lace alb in cathedral of, 92, 93 Granson, battle of, 111 Grave-clothes Duke of Alva's, 366 n¹⁰⁸⁵ Ionian lace sold from, 86 lace decorations of, 365-367 St. Cuthbert's, 14, 15, 366 Gravelle, attempt to establish fabric by, 207 Great Marlow bone lace trade of, 319 lace school at, 378 Great Wardrobe Accounts, where kept, 299 n⁸¹⁶ Greek lace. (See also Cyprus and Ragusa) Devonshire imitation of, 414 n¹¹⁶⁵ Italian cut-work so called, 20 Milan point, 65 reticella so called, 50, 85 Greeks (ancient), embroidery of, 2, 3 and n⁸ Green, quoted, 296 ——— silk lace, 291 n⁷⁸³ Greene, Mrs., quoted, 321 n⁹²⁶ Gremial, 70 n²¹⁷ Grey, Lady Jane, anecdote of, 38, 297 Grillé, 30 n⁸⁹ Gripsholm, portrait of Queen Elizabeth at, 307 Gropari (punto a gropo), 52 Gros point de Venise. See Point de Venise, rose point —— René, 32 Groslay lace, 210, 213 n⁵⁸⁹ Ground absent in certain laces, 31 kinds of, 30 round, 39 Gruner, Mr., cited, 476 n¹³¹⁶, 487 n¹³³⁵, 489 Gruuthus mansion, collection at, 138 Gueuse, 33, 34, 41, 42 Guibray fair, 43 n¹³⁶ Guipure Flemish, 123, 133 Genoese, 74 Honiton (modern), 409, 410 Maltese, 88 method of making, materials, uses, 35-40 modern, 39, 40 parchment lace probably English term for, 37-38 point de Venise, 49 tape, 39, 75 Turkish, 87 Gunning, Miss (Duchess of Hamilton), 425 n¹¹⁹⁹, 428, 429 Gurbert, cited, 219 n⁶⁰² Gustavus Adolphus, 282 Gustaf Vasa, 279, 280 Guyard, Sieur Mathieu, 204-205 Guyenne, annual consumption of Le Puy lace in, 245 n⁶⁵⁷ Haag, cited, 265 n⁷¹⁴, 269 n⁷²⁵ Haarlem thread, 216 n⁵⁹⁵, 223 n⁶⁰⁸, 245, 259 and n⁶⁹⁵, n⁶⁹⁷ Hailstone, Mrs., 23 Hainault, laces, 134 et seq.; lace flowers, 121 Hair false, of Queen Elizabeth's time, 314 and nn fashion of wearing, 341 lace made from, 313; horse-hair used in Alençon, 194; goats'-hair and rabbits'-hair lace, 245 wigs, 336, 349 Hal, flax grown at, 118 Haliwell, quoted, 297 n⁸⁰⁹ Halle lace, 265 Hamburg point, 264 Hamilton, Anne, Duchess of (Miss Gunning), 425 n¹¹⁹⁹, 428, 429 ————, Lady Jane, 123 n³⁵¹ Hamilton lace, 430 ———— net-work (modern), 434 n¹²¹⁶ Hamlet on the French stage, 186 Hammond, machine-net invented by, 447 Hand, Mrs., 445 Handkerchiefs, laced, 310 and n⁸⁷⁴, 337 Hangkow, lace made in, 89 Hanmer, Sir Thomas, 349 n¹⁰³⁷ Hanover fabrics, 265 Hanslope lace industry, 380 n¹¹¹⁹ Harefield church, sculptured lace on effigy in, 321 n⁹²⁷ Harent, Ignace, 230 Harrison, Major, rich dress of, 333 Hartruide, Madame, 279 Hartshorne, Albert, cited, 321 n⁹²⁷ Hatfield, old needlework at, 11 Hathaway family, embroidered bed linen of, 325 n⁹⁴¹ Hauslaub, General von, 263 Havre lace, 183 n⁵³⁹, 217 n⁵⁹⁵, 218; number of lace-makers (1692), 216, 218 Hay, Lord, 64 Hayman, Mrs., 410 Head, R. E., quoted, 391 n¹¹²⁷ Headdresses (See also Fontange) Louis XIV. styles, 164-166 mignonette lace used for, 35 prices of "heads," 348 Roman, 165 n⁴⁸⁶ "Heller," 391 Helmin, Fr. Margaretha, 502 Henderson, Anne, 430 Heneage, George, 346 Henrietta Maria inventory of, cited, 29 and n⁸⁷, 146 n⁴²⁶ present from, to Anne of Austria, 330 and n⁹⁶¹ Henry II. (England), 37, 202 and n⁵⁶⁹ ———— (France), introduces lace ruff, 139, 140 and n³⁹³, 262 n⁷⁰¹ Henry III. (England), 37, 43; portrait in Pattern Book, 480 ————— (France), 140 and n³⁹⁶, 141 Henry IV. (France) fashion dolls sent by, to Marie de Médicis, 170 n⁵⁰¹ Isle of Paris industry, probable connection with, 210 measures of, against luxury of dress, 141-142 and n⁴⁰⁵ shirt worn by, when assassinated, 142-143 and n⁴¹² ——— VI., laces in fashion in time of, 286 and n⁷⁶¹ ——— VII., lace of time of, 288, 289 and n⁷⁷² ——— VIII. Act for the true making of pins, 294 n⁷⁹⁴ foreign lace allowed in England by, 67, 291 inventory of, cited, 372 n¹⁰⁹⁸; quoted, 104 lace of, 64, 289, 291-292 and n⁷⁷² sumptuary laws of, 436 and n¹²²⁰ wardrobe account of, quoted, 289 and n⁷⁶⁸, n⁷⁶⁹ ———, Prince (1607), 296 n⁷⁹⁸ Herault, Chancellor, 143 and n⁴¹⁶ Herbert, Miss, 416 Herbouville, cited, 131 n³⁷¹ Herculaneum, drawn wire lace found at, 72 Hergosse, M. de, 177 n⁵²⁵ Hesse, Landgrave, French fugitives received by, 265 and n⁷¹¹ Hieronimo, Fra., 469 High Wycombe, lace industry of, 380 Hippisley, Sir John Cox, quoted, 329; veil bequeathed to, 421 Hispano-Moresque point de Gênes frisé, 74 Hoche, General, 13 Hoffmann, Hans, 469 Holcroft, Mr., 169 n⁴⁹⁹ Hölesom, 280 Holidays in Roman Catholic countries, 102 n³⁰² Holland Dutch extravagance in lace, 260 Haarlem thread, advantage of, to, 259 and n⁶⁹⁵, n⁶⁹⁷ lace imported into, 251, 254 lace industry in, 258-260 and n⁶⁸⁹ rivalry with French lace trade, 258 Hollie work, 325 and n⁹³⁹ Hollow lace, 299 and n⁸¹⁶ Holme, Randle, cited, 31, 344; quoted, 251, 296 n⁷⁹⁹, 339 Holstein, daughter of Duke John of, 275 Holyrood Palace, lace trimmed basket in, 420 Honfleur lace, 183 n⁵³⁹, 218 Honiton, lace school at, 414 ———— lace account of, 399-411 bobbins and pillows used in, 415 n¹¹⁶⁶ Bruges lace a rival to, 133 guipure, 40 Indian contrasted with, 89 Japanese imitations of, 417 point duchesse compared with, 123 ———— lace-makers, skill of, 417 n¹¹⁷¹ Hope, Sir Thomas, portrait of, 423 Horsehair used in making Alençon, 194 Hôtel Rambouillet, dressed dolls of, 170 Hove, Callys de, 306 Howel's Letters, quoted, 317 n⁹⁰⁶ Hubert, Sœur, cited, 220 n⁶⁰⁶ Hugo, Victor, quoted, 135, 164; cited, 136 n³⁸⁴ Humphrey, Thomas, 401 Hungarian lace, 268 Hungerford, Sir Edward, 395 Hunt, Susanna, 438 Hurdle, Mary, 395 Hutchins, quoted, 396 n¹¹³³ Hutchinson, Colonel, 333 —————, Mrs., Memoirs of, cited, 12 Hutton, Sir Timothy, 71 Iberian lace, 104 Ile de France. See Isle de France India lace exported to, 241, 251, 253, 322 n⁹²⁸, 329 and n⁹⁵⁸ pillow-laces of, 88 and n²⁶³, 89 India Museum, pillow laces in, 89 Indian muslin, 179-180 ——— work of Denmark, 275 Innishmacsaint, 446 Innocent IV., Pope, 7 Inquisition, lace-trimmed banner of, 100 Insertion, 388 Ionian Isles lace manufacture of, 85 lace from tombs of, 365 Ipsden, Vicar of, MS. in possession of, 286 n⁷⁶¹ Ireland Bath and Shirley School, 440 club against "foreign fopperies," 438 Dublin Society, the, 429, 437, 439 lace industry in, 436-446; Maltese guipures made in, 88; Irish point, 443 and n¹²³³ prize offered by, for Dresden point, 262 sumptuary laws in, 435, 436 and n¹²²⁰ yellow dye of, 307, 435, 436 Iron Mask, 166 n⁴⁹⁰ Isabella, Infanta, 113 ————, Princess (Sweden), 279 n⁷⁴⁶ "Isabelle" tint, 121 Ischia lace, 71, 263 and n⁷⁰⁵ Isle de France lace industry in centres of (17th century), 209 and n⁵⁸², 210 Chantilly, 212-215 cheap laces, 210 Dumont's fabric, 211 Huguenots engaged in, 209 Spanish imports of lace from, 99 Israel, J., 469 Italians, dishonesty of, in lace trade (Henry VII.'s time), 48, 67, 288 Italy (For towns, etc., see their titles) France, relations with, 16th century, 476 invention of lace claimed by, 109; of point lace, 45 lace imported by, 245, 251 n⁶⁷⁰ lace of (See also Point and Punto) centres of manufacture before 1665, 44 n¹⁴⁴ England, fashionable in, 318; imitated in, 416 n¹¹⁶⁹, 417 Greek lace manufacture, centres of, 85 Points in relief of, counterfeits of, 105 Spanish point attributed to, 93, 97 lace schools of, 81 n²⁴⁹ revolutions in, lace seized during, 51 and n¹⁷⁵ silk gimp specimens from, 85 Swiss lace from, origin of, 269 white thread made in, 49 n¹⁶⁵ Jabot, 172 Jacobites, 425, 426 James I. gold purle manufacture prohibited by, 319 and n⁹²¹ Great Wardrobe Account, 311 n⁸⁷⁸, 317 and n⁹⁰³, 318 nl7 Honiton lace industry in time of, 401 lace of, 64 monopolies granted by, 318-319, 378 period of, 315-326 ruffs under, 315-318 ——— II. Edinburgh visited by, 425 period of, 340 ——— V. (of Scotland), 372 n¹⁰⁹⁸, 418 and n¹¹⁷² ——— VI. (of Scotland), 422 and n¹¹⁹⁵ ———, Jacques, 205 Jane Seymour, 292 Japan, Honiton lace imitated in, 417 Jean lace. See Genoa lace Jerphanion, Sieur, 244 Jersey, Isle of, lace industry of, 372 and n¹⁰⁹⁷ Jesuit lace, 445 and n¹²³⁴ Jesuits, inventory of, cited, 331 Jesurum, Cav. Michelangelo, 62 Jew stick, 491 and n¹³⁴⁹ Jewellery of 18th century, 346 Jews Athenian lace used by, 86 embroidery of (ancient), 2 gold and silver lace made by, 92 and n²⁷⁰ Jingles of bobbins, 391 n¹¹²⁷ Johan Adolf, Prince, 282 Johnson, Dr., quoted, 367 Jointeuse, work of, 122 Jolly, Margareta, 348 Jonson, Ben, quoted, 43 n¹³⁹, 302, 313 n⁸⁹⁰, 316 and n⁹²², 318 n⁹¹⁰, n⁹¹², 327 Josephine, Empress, 123 n³⁵¹, 177 n⁵²⁶ Jours, 31 Judith of Bavaria, 5 Junius, Hadrianus, 114 n³²⁷ Junot, Madame. See Abrantès, Duchesse d' Jurdaine, Mary, 306 Jutland lace industry, 274 Katherine of Aragon, Queen Bedfordshire lace-industry attributed to, 375 and n¹¹⁰⁶, n¹¹⁰⁷, 376 needlework of, 9, 10 and n³² portrait of, 129 n³⁶⁷ Spanish fashions introduced by 10 n³², 310 —————, Queen (wife of Charles II.), 43 ————— Parr, Queen, 10 n³⁴ Keck, 423 Keller, Dr. Ferd, 270 n⁷²⁸ Kenmare, lace industry of, 443, 444 Kennedy, Tristram, 440 Kettering, lace industry of, 384 Killigrew, quoted, 318 n⁹⁰⁸ Kilravock, Mistress Margaret, daughter of the Baron of, 425 n¹¹⁹⁸ Kinsale, lace industry at, 422 n¹¹⁸⁷ Knight, cited, 396 ———, Miss, quoted, 264 Knole, old needlework at, 11 Knotted fringe, 13 and n⁴⁷ ———— lace, 52, 68 Knox, Miss Jane, 438 Kœhler, statuette by, 262 Königsmarck, Aurora, lace in tomb of, 366 La Boord, Madame, 43 La Chaise-Dieu, lace industry at, 249 "La Fontange," story of, 164 La Mancha, lace factory at, 102 La Motte, Maréchal, 29, 126 and n³⁵⁷ La Perrière, 155 n⁴⁵⁴, 157 n⁴⁵⁸ "La Providence" nuns, 226 La Vallière, 154, 464 n¹²⁸⁰ Laborde, cited, 151 n⁴³⁸ Lace (See also Old lace) Biblical meaning of term, 2 definition of term, 26 foreign equivalent of term, 26 n⁷⁷ manufactures of, before 1665, 44 n¹⁴⁴ parts of, 30 point and pillow, 32 —— Association, aims of, 393 Laced handkerchiefs, 310 and n⁸⁷⁴ Lace-makers, ill-health of, 415 Lacis Aurillac, 248 book of (1587), 18 definition of, 20 and n⁶¹, 21 Don Quixote, mentioned in, 98 n²⁸¹ German, 264 Punto a maglia quadra, 52 Sicilian, 81 Tuscan, 68 Ladies as lace-makers, 163, 337, 355, 373, 374 and n¹¹⁰³ Ladomie, M., cited, 170 n⁵⁰¹ Laffemas, quoted, 209 n⁵⁸³ Laid work, 301 Laimoxen, Balthasar, 489 Lalande, cited, 64 Lalma, 246 Lamb represented in lace, 21 Lamballe, Princesse de, 213 Lappets. See Barbe Larkin, Thomas, 312 Laroche, lace made at, 137 Larruga, cited, 101 Lassels, cited, 70; quoted, 73 Latomus, Sigismund, 267, 491, 492 Lauber, Miss Jacobina, 282 Laulne, E. de, 476 Launceston, lace-making at, 371 n¹⁰⁹⁴ Laval, Geneviève, 183 n⁵⁴⁰ Laybach, 268 Le Prince, 465 Le Puy lace industry of cheap laces, 246 descriptions of lace of, 245 export trade, 245; value of annual export, 245 and n⁶⁵⁷ Haarlem thread used in, 245 import duties decreased, 244 and n⁶⁵³ numbers employed in, 242; (1851), 257 n⁶⁸⁸; in making Valenciennes, 245 sumptuary laws (seventeenth century), effect of, on, 243 lace schools of, 246 and n⁶⁵⁹ museum at, 246 Valenciennes lace at, 230 and n⁶¹⁹ Le Quesnoy lace, 157 n⁴⁵⁹, 230 Lead, bobbins made of, 74 n²³⁵ Leber, M., cited, 487 n¹³³⁶ Lee, Rev. William, 448 n¹²⁴⁰ Lefébure, A. blondes mates exported by, 226 point d'Argentan revived by, 208 quoted, 75 n²³⁷, 155 n⁴⁵³, 158 n⁴⁶³, 159 n⁴⁶⁴, 194, 200; cited, 228, 250, 269 n⁷²⁴ teaching improved by, 227 Leicester, Countess of, 330 Leipsic, fair, 196 and n⁵⁶³; fabrics (1685), 265 Lennox, Countess of, 314 ———, Duke of, 419 and n¹¹⁷⁶ Léonard, 181 Lepage, M., 134 L'Estoille, P. de, quoted, 141 n³⁹⁹ L'Estrange, Sir Thomas, 290 Letters of a Lady's Travels in Spain, quoted, 97-98 Leu, Sieur de la, manufactory of, 205-206 Liedts, Baroness, 138 Liège lace account of industry, 136-137 point de Sedan, connected with, 254 price of (1701), 136 n³⁸⁶ Lierre Mechlin lace made at, 125 pictures in St. Gomar, 109 n³¹⁷ Light reflectors, bottles used as, 390 and n¹¹²⁵ Liguria, guipures of, 74 Lille lace compared with Spanish lace, 103; with Arras, 235, 240; with Valenciennes, Brussels and Mechlin, 237 cost of thread, 237 and n⁶³⁷ England, popularity in, 237 and n⁶⁴⁰; Bedfordshire lace called "English Lille," 385 ground, 236-237 modern, 238 lace-industry antiquity of, 235 decline of, 238 dress of lace-makers, 235 and n⁶³⁰ French duty on lace (1761), 237 n⁶³⁵ mignonette made (1665), 35 numbers employed in (1723), 237 n⁶⁴⁰; (1788), 238, 257 n⁶⁸⁸ rivalry with Mirecourt, 252 value of (1788), 238 lace-workers, daily amount produced by, 233 thread, fineness of, 119 n³³⁹; price of, 192 n⁵⁵³, 237 and n⁶³⁷; export of, to Scotland, 432 Limerick lace, 440, 441 and n¹²³⁰, 442 n¹²³¹, n¹²³²; lace school, 442 Limousin, 250 Lincoln, maiden assize at, 338 n⁹⁹¹ Linen embroidery of, 14 macramé, 79 and n²⁴⁸ Lisbon, lace factories at, 105 Lisle, Lady, 290 and n⁷⁸⁰ Loch, David, quoted, 433 and n¹²¹⁴; cited, 434 Locke, quoted, 430 Loisel, Franç., Phelyplaux, 125 n³⁵⁴, 174 n⁵²⁰ Lombard peasants, lace worn by, 64 London foreigners in (1571-1688), 129 n³⁶⁶, 299 n⁸¹⁷, 306 and n⁸⁵³; complaint of women against introduction of foreign merchants, 286; complaints against foreign lace-makers, 324 n⁹³⁵ lace-making in, 373 ———, Bishop of, sermon by, against ruffs, quoted, 316 and n⁸⁹⁹ ——— Chronicle, cited, 4 ——— Gazette, quoted, 11 n³⁹, 126 Long Island, lace-making by Protestant settlers in, 372 n¹⁰⁹⁹ Lonlay, Eugène de, cited, 208 Lonrai (Lonray), lace factory at, 155 n⁴⁵⁵, 156 and n⁴⁵⁷; sale of stock, 196 ———, Marquise de, 157 n⁴⁵⁷ Lord Thomas (ballad), quoted, 15 L'Orme, Marion de, quoted, 125 Lorraine, lace industry (see also Mirecourt), 251 and n⁶⁷², n⁶⁷³; Mignonette made (1665), 35; numbers employed (1851), 257 n⁶⁸⁸ ————, Queen Louise de, 144 Lost property, advertisements for, 337 and n⁹⁹⁰, 338 and n⁹⁹², 342 n¹⁰¹⁰ Loucelles, Abbé Suhard de, 226 Loudun, 256 Louis XI., 139 n³⁹³ ——— XIII. collar made at Venice for, 194 death of, 149 Flemish conquests of, 230 and n⁶¹⁸ luxury and fashions of time of, 144-147 ——— XIV. census of (1684), 131 cravats presented to ambassadors by, 163 death of, effect on Alençon industry, 192 fashions of reign of, 161 et seq. fête at Marly, 163 Flemish conquests of, 230 and n⁶¹⁸ gold and silver lace of period of, 154 Paris lace commerce under, 211 sumptuary laws of, 152 ——— XV. Court of, 172 and n⁵⁰⁵ fashions under black lace masks, 177 jabots, 172-173 mourning, 178 relevailles of Parisian ladies, 174 ruffles, 171-173 point d'Alençon patterns under, 198-199 and n⁵⁶⁶ trousseau of eldest daughter of, 176 ——— XVI. fashions under, 179-181 phraseology of time of, 181 point d'Alençon patterns under, 199 and n⁵⁶⁶ ruffles of, 172 n⁵⁰⁸ Louisa, Queen (Sweden), 279 Louise de Vaudemont, Queen, 18, 478, 480 Louvain, pictures and altar piece at, 109, 110 and n³¹⁷ ————, Widow, attempt of, to establish manufacture at Mortagne, 206 Louvres, lace-making at, 209 ———— en-Parisis lace, 212 n⁵⁸⁹ Lovat, Lady, 426 n¹²⁰² Low Countries. See names of countries Lowndes, cited, 497 n¹³⁶⁰, 500 ————, Richard, 380 Lubec, 264 Lucca, gold lace, 92 Lude, Duchesse de, 167 and n⁴⁹⁵ Luxada, cited, 75 Luxembourg, M. de, 167 —————, Maréchale de, 180 Luynes, Duc de, Memoirs of, quoted, 174 and n⁵¹⁸, 176 n⁵²² Luzarches lace, 212 Lydgate, quoted, 305 Lygum Kloster, 274 n⁷³⁶, 276 n⁷³⁸ Lyme Regis, lace industry of, 396-398 Lyons lace, 256 Lysons, cited, 384, 396; quoted, 405, 408 Mabbie, 423 Macaulay, John, 439 n¹²²⁷ McCulloch, cited, 384 —————, E., cited, 224 n⁶¹⁰ McCullow, Miss Martha, 438 Mache, 22 n⁷⁰ Machine net, introduction of, 408 Machinery—"engines" of foreigners for lace-making, 324 n⁹³⁵ Maclean, Rev. William, 442, 443 McPherson, quoted, 112 n³²⁴ Macramé, 52, 79 and n²⁴⁷ Madden, Sir Fred., quoted, 297 n⁸¹² Madeira, laces of, 106, 107 and n³¹⁶ Madras, Maltese-like lace made in, 88 n²⁶³ Madrid, lace factory at, 102 Magnus, Prince (Sweden), 280 Maidstone, complaints of, regarding imported Flemish thread, 324 n⁹³⁵ Mailly, Madame, 250 Maine, Madame de, 167 Maintenon, Madame de, 168, 183; letter to, quoted, 99; lace factory of, 163; letter from, quoted, 172 and n⁵⁰⁶ Malcontent, quoted, 322 Malines exhibition, voile de bénédiction at, 195 n⁵⁶¹, 251 n⁶⁷⁴ ———— lace. See Mechlin lace Malta, grave-clothes lace-trimmed at, 365 Maltese lace account of industry, 87 and n²⁶², 88 Danish manufacture of, 275 English manufacture of, 392, 393, 414 n¹¹⁶⁵ Greek lace similar to, 86 Guipure, 40 Madeira manufacture of, 107 n³¹⁶ Saxon manufacture of, 263 Man, Isle of, lace industry of, 372 and n¹⁰⁹⁶ Manchester thread, 119 n³³⁹ Manchettes. See Ruffles Manegetti di ponto Fiamengo, 111 Manilla grass thread-work, 89 n²⁶⁵ Mantegna, Andrea, 467 Mantillas, 226 Manzoni, Count, cited, 488 n¹³⁴⁰ Mar, Countess of, 419 and n¹¹⁷⁶ Marcello, Countess Andriana, 61 Marche lace, 68, 138 n³⁹² Marcq, Catherine de, 157 n⁴⁵⁸, 158 n⁴⁶⁰, 190 Mare, de la, cited, 148 n⁴³¹, 152 n⁴⁴⁰ Margaret of Austria, 23 n⁷⁴ Margherita, Queen of Italy, 61, 62 Margot, Reine, 11, 22, 49, 141, 142 Marguerite de France, 11 n³⁶, 22, 27, 33 n¹⁰² Maria d'Aragon, portrait of, in pattern book, 497 ——— Elizabeth, Electress Palatine, 491 Marie Antoinette autograph letter, referred to, 213 fans and laces distributed by, 180 fashion at court of, 179-180 gazette of (1782), 181 n⁵³⁷ point de Marli worn by, 225 sale of lace of, 183 ——— Louise, Brussels lace presented to, 124; lace trousseau of, 184, 196 ——— Theresa, 259 and n⁶⁹⁹ Marnef, Hierosme de, 496 Marillac, Maréchal de, 147 n⁴²⁸, 265 n⁷¹⁵ Marini, cited, 58 Marlborough, lace industry at, 395 Marli, 180 and n⁵³² Marly, fête at, 163 Marriott, William, 380 Marryat, Captain, cited, 413; lace industry assisted by, 410 ————, Mrs., 500 n¹³⁶⁵ ————, Miss Cecilia, 410 Marsan, Comte de, 210 and n⁵⁸⁵ ———, Mlle. de, 211 Mary, Princess, daughter of George II., 348 —— I. accounts of, quoted, 297 gift of Spanish work to, 10 n³²; Flanders work to, 294 interment of, 180 present to Lady Calthorpe, 297 ruffs of, 310 sumptuary laws, 293 —— of Burgundy, 135 ——, Queen of Hungary, 113 —— de Médicis collarette of, 143-144 death of, 149 fashion dolls sent to, 170 n⁵⁰¹ pattern book dedicated to, 22, 494 point de Gennes of, 72 sumptuary law published by, 144 and n⁴¹⁹; evaded by, 149 and n⁴³⁴ Mary of Modena, Queen, 341, 425 —— II. fontange of, 342 knotted fringe worked by, 13 and n⁴⁷ lace bills of, quoted, 168 n⁴⁹⁶ Mechlin ruffles of, 126 and n³⁶⁴ —— Stuart dentelle of, 27 finery of, overhauled by Elizabeth, 307 and n⁸⁶⁰ guipures of, 37 and n¹²⁰, 38 inventories of, cited, 21, 33 n¹⁰², 302 n⁸²⁸, 314, 325 n⁹³⁹, 372 n¹⁰⁹⁸ needlework done by, 10, 11, 420, 421 ruff on effigy of, 316 n⁹⁰¹ wardrobe of, 419 and n¹¹⁷⁷, 420 and n¹¹⁸², 421 will of, 22 Masch (Mawsch) 22 and n⁷⁰, 419 Massillon, encouragement of lace industry by, 243 Massimo, Prince, reference to library of, 466, 468 n¹²⁹⁰, 495 n¹³⁵⁷ Massinger, quoted, 265 n⁷¹⁷, 296 and n⁸⁰⁴ Matignon, Mlle, de, 176 Matilda, Empress, Bayeux Tapestry ascribed to, 6 n²² ————, Queen, Bayeux Tapestry ascribed to, 6 and n²³ Matsys, Quentin, 109, 110 Matthew of Paris, anecdote by, 7 Maximilian, King of the Romans, 289 Maynard, Mrs. Lydia, 404 Mayne, Jasper, quoted, 317 and n⁹⁰⁵, 324 and n⁹³⁶ Mazarin, Cardinal, 143 n⁴¹², 150, 151 and n⁴³⁹, 248 Mazzarine, 343 and n¹⁰¹⁷ Mechlin lace arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n³⁶⁵ "Broderie de Malines" a term for, 125 characteristic of, 31, 125 compared with Bayeux lace, 228; with Brussels, 118; with Cretan mesh work, 87; with Lille, 237; with point de Dieppe, 218; with St. Trond, 137; with Valenciennes, 233 decline of manufacture, 125 description of, 124-125 earliest references to, 125-126 English fashion for, 126 grounds in, 125 imperial layette (1856), in, 198 Lille, pattern adopted at, 238 points de France rivalled by, 177-178 Pope's apron bordered with, 70 Turnhout manufacture of, 125, 131 uses of, 127-128 varieties included by term (1665), 35 —— net, 448 Medici collars, 56 Médicis family (See also Katherine and Mary), influence on fashions, 139 Melville, Sir Robert, 37 Memoirs of Madame Palatine, cited, 354 Men as lace workers Chili, 108 England, 392; south, 371 n¹⁰⁹²; Northamptonshire, 385; Devonshire, 413, 414 France, 155 Madeira, 107 n³¹⁶ Normandy (soldiers), 225 Saxony, 263 work of, compared with that of women, 263 Menin lace, 232 n⁶²⁴ Menzikoff, Prince, funeral of daughter of, 366 n¹⁰⁸³ Meran blonde, 256 Mercier, Baron, lace school of, 196 ——, S., quoted, 121 and n³⁴⁸, 170 n⁵⁰⁰, 171 and n⁵⁰² Méric lace, 212 Merli, Cav. Antonio, cited, 46 and n¹⁵⁰, 47, 50, 462, 466, 468 n¹²⁹¹, n¹²⁹², 487 Merli à piombini, 32 n⁹⁸ Mermaid's lace, 49 Meshes, Cretan skill in, 86 Messina, lace work at, 81 Metal laces, Sicilian, 86 Mexico, mantillas exported to, 226 Meyer, Daniel, 496 Mézières lace, 183 n⁵³⁹, 253, 254 Mezzo punto, 58 Michel, Francisque, cited, 104; quoted, 251 n⁶⁶⁹ ——, Pfarrer, 266 Michele, La Sig. Gabriella Zeno, 484 Middleton, quoted, 312 n⁸⁸⁴ Mignerak, Milour, pattern book of, 21, 22, 29, 493 Mignonette, 34 and n¹⁰⁷, 35 and nn, 210, 237, 251 Milan Albissola lace bought for Napoleon I.'s coronation at, 78 Cantu the centre of lace of, 66 cathedral, lace camicie in underground chapel of, 66 early record of Italian lace belonging to, 63 Genoese lace contrasted with lace of, 75 n²³⁶ Greek lace made at, 85 Old Milan point, 65 punto di Napoli contrasted with point of, 71 réseau of points of, 66 wire lace industry at, 72 Milward & Co., 380 Minas Geraes, lace of, 108 Minifie, Mrs., 400 and n¹¹⁴⁰, 401 and n¹¹⁴² Mirecourt lace, 212, 238, 251-253, 257 n⁶⁸⁸ Misson, F. M., cited, 54 n¹⁸⁶; quoted, 267 Mitchell, Mr. and Mrs., advertisement of school of, 431 n¹²⁰⁹ Modano, Tuscan, 52, 68 Modène, Duchess of inventory of, quoted, 120 n³⁴⁴, 121 n³⁴⁷, 128 n³⁶³, 135 and n³⁸³, 175 n⁵²⁰, 213 and n⁵⁹⁰ ruffles of, 233 Modes, 31 Molière, quoted, 152, 153 n⁴⁴², 173 n⁵¹⁵ Mompesson, Sir Giles, 318 and n⁹¹⁴ Monaghan, crochet industry of, 444, 445 Moncrieffe, Sir Thomas, 425 Monks, needlework done by, 12 and n⁴⁰ Mons lace, 134-135 "Monsieur de Paris," 173 Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley, 57, 59, 73; quoted, 128, 356 and n¹⁰⁶¹ Montague, Mrs. Elizabeth, quoted, 352 —— R., account entry by, 335 n⁹⁸² Montargis, 256 Montbéliard, pattern-book published at, 28 Montchrestien, cited, 209 n⁵⁸³ Monteagle, Lord, 10 n³² Monteleon, Princess of, 98 Monthulay, family, 204 —— Sieur de, 205, 206 Montmorency, lace-making at, 209, 213 n⁵⁸⁹ Montrose, pearlin of, 423 Moorish lace, 104 Moors, Spanish lace-making attributed to, 45 Morant, Captain, 440 More, Mrs. Hannah, quoted, 368 Moreau, General, 13 Moretti, Nicolo, 484 Morgan, cited, 435 —— Sydney, Lady, 369 Morges lace, 212 n⁵⁸⁹ Morin, M.A., cited, 220 n⁶⁰⁶ Mortagne, 206 Moryson, Agnes, quoted, 55, 70, 73, 87, 258, 265, 268, 274 Moscow, lace school at, 284 Motteville, Mme., quoted, 154 n⁴⁴⁷ Mountague, Alice, 308 Mourning, lace discarded in, in James I.'s time, 324 Murat, Caroline, 183 —— laces, 248, 249 Mzeresk lace, 283 Nanduti, 108 Nani, Signora Viena Vendramina, 485 Nankin silk thread, 223 n⁶⁰⁸ Naples Greek lace made at, 85 lace from a palace at, 51 n¹⁷⁵ lace of, 70-71; lace work of industrial school at, 83 n³⁵² Napoleon bed made for, 196 favourite laces of, 128, 184 lace industry encouraged by, 123-124, 183-185, 196; attempt to revive Valenciennes, 231. Nardendal, custom of natives of, 283 National Gallery portraits, illustrations of ruffs in, 316 n⁹⁰¹ Navarre, Queen of, accounts of, quoted, 67, 141 n⁴⁰⁶, 142 n⁴⁰⁹, n⁴¹¹ Needle lace (See also Point à l'aiguille) Alençon known as "needle-point," 195 Irish, 443 method of making, 32 Queen Elizabeth's, 305 Nelson, Lord, anecdote of, 264 Nemours, Duchesse de, 235 Nesmond, Marquis de, 117 and n³³¹ Netherlands. See Flanders, Belgium, Holland and Brabant Netting, 20, 21, 52; machine net, 408 Neufchâtel lace industry, 270 and n⁷²⁶ Neville, Mary, marriage clothes of, 291 n⁷⁷⁹ New Ross convent, lace made at, 444 Newport Pagnel lace, 375 n¹¹⁰⁵, 378, 382, 384 Newton, Rev. John, letter from Cowper to, 379 Nicholas, Edward, 329 n⁹⁵⁷ ———— Susanne, 329 n⁹⁵⁷ Nichols, quoted, 294 n⁷⁹¹, 303 n⁸³³ Nicolas, Etienne, 160 n⁴⁶⁶ Night caps, 323 Noailles, Madame de, anecdote of, 180 n⁵³³ Normanby, Lady, 441 Normandy lace industry of. (See also Calvados and Dieppe) centres of, 216, 218 French Revolution, effect of, 223 mignonette made (1665), 35 numbers employed in different localities, 228 n⁶¹⁴; (1851), 257 n⁶⁸⁸ value of, 228 n⁶¹⁴ peasant women, Valenciennes bought by, 235 Norris, Sir Henry, 307 Northamptonshire lace, 384-393 Nosegays, lace trimmings for, 55 Nottingham lace, 441; Isle of Wight lace compared with, 372 n¹⁰⁹⁷; machine-made blondes, 225; imitation mantillas, 227 Novgorod, fabric at, 283 Nuns, lace washed by, 373 and n¹¹⁰¹ —— as lace-makers Flanders, 354 Italy, 47 and n¹⁵⁴; Burano, 58; Florence, 67, 68; Cantu, 80 Portugal, 105, 107 Spain, 93 Nuremberg, 266, 267 Oberkirch, Baroness de, extract from Memoires of, 182 O'Brien, Mrs. R. V., 442 O'Hagan, Mother Abbess, 443 O'Halloran, Mr., 436 Old lace indifference to, 368 and n¹⁰⁹⁰ mania for, 369 restoration of, 411, 412 Oldfield, Mrs., 367 Olney, lace industry of, 378, 380 n¹¹¹⁹ Opus tract, 302 Orfreys, 3 n¹³ Orléans, Duchesse d', quoted, 166 n⁴⁸⁹ ———— Dukes of, inventories of, quoted, 120 n³⁴², n³⁴⁴, 221 and n⁶⁰⁷ Orléanois lace industry, 256 Orsa lace, 281 Ostans, Giovanni, 484 ——— Jean, 475 Oudenarde lace, 134 Our Lady of La Solidad, costly robes of, 90 —- —— of Loreto, laces of, not described, 69 Overbury murder, 317 Oxford, opinion of, on falling bands, 326 ——— Countess of, 9 n³¹ Oyah (Turkish crochet), 45, 87 Pagan, Mathio, 468, 471 Paganino, Alessandro, 468 Paganinus, P. A., 472 Paget, Lady, 295 Pagodes, 168 n⁴⁹⁶ Paintings, earliest in which lace occurs, 47; lace in paintings of 18th century, 222, 364 Palatine, Count, 326 ———— Madame, 168; Memoires of, quoted, 178 Pale of rose point, 51 and n¹⁷⁴ Palermo grave clothes at, 366 and n¹⁰⁸¹ sculptured lace in villa near, 71 Palestine, lace-making at, 59 and n¹⁹⁵ Pandore, la grande, 170 Parasole, Elisabetta Catanea, 495 ———— Isabella Catanea, 491, 496 Parchment lace, 37 and n¹²², 38 and n¹²⁶, n¹²⁹, n¹³¹, 297, 298 Paris churches, lace of, 120 n³⁴², 161 n⁴⁶⁷, n⁴⁶⁹ English laces in demand at (1788), 368, 379 exhibitions. See under Exhibitions lace industry Binche and Mirecourt flowers applied at, 212 Bisette made (1665), 33 and n¹⁰² commerce of lace under Louis XIV, 211 and n⁵⁸⁷ Dumont's fabric, 211 factories round, 209 guipures made (1665), 36 and n¹¹⁴ mignonette made (1655), 35 numbers employed (1851), 257 n⁶⁸⁸ passementiers privileged in, 44 pattern books in, 12 and n⁴³ Parisini, Agostino, 477 Partlet, 297 n⁸¹⁰ Pasax, Marquis de, 190 Pasini, Tomaso, 483 Pasment in Scotland, 418 Pasolini, Countess, 81 n²⁴⁸ Passament (passement) definition of term, 26 and n⁷⁹, 27 guipure a kind of, 36 references to, 27-29 "Passement Bond, The," 419 Passerotti, Aurelio, 472 Pattern-books Belgium Antwerp (n. d.), 130, 463 Liège (1597), 136, 488 cut-works, of (1591), 20 n⁶² earliest dated, 18; earliest known, 376 n¹¹⁰⁸ England London (1591), 482; (1624), 497; (1632), 499; (1640), 500 Northampton, 384 France Lyon (n. d.), 92 n²⁶⁹, 465, 466; (1549) 92 n²⁶⁹, 144, 464; (1581), 475 Mignerak's, 21, 22, 29, 144, 493 Montbéliard (1598), 28, 489, 490 Paris, in Bibliothèque Impériale, 12 n⁴³; in St. Geneviève's library, 12; (n. d.), 468; (1530) 144, 461; (1546), 464; (1564), 475; (1584), 476; (1587), 17, 18, 477; (1587, 1588, 1595, 1606), 479-481; (1601), 20 n⁶², 490; (1605), 493; (1613), 494; (1623), 498; (1722), 501 Germany Augsburg (1534), 267, 462 Cologne (1527), 268, 459 Frankfort (n.d.), 470; (1537), 470 Frankfort-on-the-Maine (1568, 1569, 1571), 470; (1605), 267, 491; (1607), 492; (1618), 496 Leipsic (1619), 496 Lindau am Bodensee (n.d.), 488 Nuremberg (n.d.) 502; (1597), 489; (1601, 1604), 266, 490; (1666), 501; (1676), 501 Nuremberg and Leipzig, (1784), 501 Strasburg (1556), 469 gold and silver lace, of, 92 Italy Bologna (n.d.), 477; (1591), 483 Florence (1596), 488 Padua (1555), 469; (1604), 491 Pistoja (1642), 53 n¹⁸¹, 85, 92 n²⁶⁹, 500 Rome (1616), 495; (1625), 496 Siena (1603), 488 Turin (1589), 481 Venice (n.d.), 466, 471, 498; (1529), 461; (1530), 53 n¹⁷⁹, 460; (1532), 462; (1537), 462; (1542), 463; (1543, 1544), 464; (1548), 53 n¹⁷⁹, 468; (1551), 468; (1556), 469; (1557), 472; (1558), 471; (1559), 92 n²⁶⁹, 471, 472; (1560), 473; (1563), 474; (1564), 53 n¹⁷⁹, 54 n¹⁸², 474, 475; (1567), 475; (1584), 476; (1591), 53 n¹⁷⁹, 54 n¹⁸², 484; (1592) (Corona of Vecellio), 50 n¹⁶⁷, 54 n¹⁸², 484; (1594), 486; (1600), 68, 491, 496; (1620 and 1625), 54 n¹⁸², 497 Samplars a substitute for, 22-23 Switzerland Basle (1599), 271, 490 St. Gall (1593), 271, 487 Zurich, 271, 469 unknown points in, 54 n¹⁸² Vienna Museum, in, 263 Pauline, Princess, 184, 185 Pays de Caux, 216 Peacham, quoted, 325, 329 Pearl (picot), 31 ——— ties, 31 Pearlin, 422, 423 Pedlars, lace trade carried on by, 43 and n¹³⁹, 44 and n¹⁴², n¹⁴³ Pelegrin, Francisque, pattern book of, 144, 461 Pelican represented in lace, 21 Pellestrina, revival of pillow lace at, 62 Pembroke, Countess of, 322, 500 Peniche bobbins used at, 106 n³¹⁴ lace industry of, 107 and n³¹⁵ Pennant, quoted, 382; cited, 431 n¹²⁰⁸ Penne, Mrs., 294 Penshurst, old needlework at, 11 Penthièvre, Duc de Eu lace patronised by, 221 inventory of, quoted, 117 n³³³, 195 n⁵⁴⁹ wardrobe account of, quoted, 172 and n⁵¹⁰, n⁵¹¹, 211 n⁵⁸⁸ Peplos, embroidery of, 3 n⁸ Pepys' Diary, quoted, 153 n⁴⁴⁴, 337, 338 Persia, drawn-work of, 45 Peru and Mexico, lace imported to, from Le Puy, 245 Perugia, Torchon made at, 81 n²⁴⁸ Peter the Great, 283 Petersen, Anders, 280 Petre, Madame, of Gefle, information supplied by, 282 n⁷⁵⁰ Peuchet, cited, 132, 224, 256, 265, 377, 395; quoted, 216 n⁵⁹⁵, 218 n⁶⁰⁰, 220 n⁶⁰⁵, 225, 237 n⁶⁴⁰, 239, 244, 245 and n⁶⁵⁷, 268, 396, 432 "Pharsalia" quoted, 25 Philip II. (Spain), 67, 310 ——— III. (Spain), 97 Philippa, Queen, 278, 285 and n⁷⁵⁴ Philippine Islands, Manilla grass threadwork of, 89 n²⁶⁵ Phrygians, embroidery of, 3 and n¹³ Pianesani, Francesco, 462 Picard, M., 490 n¹³⁴⁶ Picchetti, Marie, 79 Pichon, Baron J., 482, 493 n¹³⁵⁵, 495 n¹³⁵⁶ Pickleman, Jungfrau, 266 Pickpockets, 346 Picot (pearl), 31 and n⁹² Pigott, Miss, quoted, 421 Pillows Barcelona, 103 n³⁰⁵ description of, 391 foreign names for, 32 n⁹⁹ Honiton, 415 n¹¹⁵⁶ Pillow guipure, 116 ——— lace (bobbin lace) Austrian, 268 bobbin lace, so called 32 Ceylon, of, 88 foreign names for, 32 n⁹⁸ France, extension of industry in (seventeenth century), 159; trade crisis (1818), 187; fabric at Château de Madrid, 210 n⁵⁸⁴; gold lace of Paris, 212; first mentioned in French pattern-books, 494 Genoese, 74 Germany, introduction into, 260 Madeira, at, 107 Mechlin. See that title method of making, 32-33 origin of, 29, 109 Peniche, at, 107 Russian, 283 and n⁷⁵¹ Spanish, 103 n³⁰⁵ Valenciennes. See that title ——— net, 150 ——— -beres, 16 and n⁵⁶ Pin net machine, 448 Pinheiro, Dona Maria Bordallo, letter from, quoted, 107 n³¹⁵ Pins for lace-making, 391 and n¹¹²⁶; State papers concerning, 294 n⁷⁹⁴ Pinwork lace, 294 n⁷⁹⁴ Piper Countess Elizabeth, 280 Pisa, lace work of industrial school at, 81 n²⁴⁸ Pitt, French fashions excluded by, 170 Pizzo, 74 Plaited laces, 392 Platteuse, work of, 122 Plissés à la vieille, 127 Pluymers, Jean, 158 n⁴⁶⁰ Point (stitch), kinds of, 32 ——— lace invention of, claimed by Italy, 45 misuse of term, 32 varieties of, 33-35 ——— à l'aiguille, 121; gazée, 123. See also Needle point ——— d'Alençon Argentella, 193 and n⁵⁵⁵ Bayeux manufacture of, 228 Burano manufacture of, 62 compared, with point d'Argentan, 203, 204 and n⁵⁷¹; with Brussels, 194, 199; with Colbertine, 339; with point Gaze, 123; with Sedan lace, 254 dress of, purchased by Emperor Napoleon, 198 earliest use of name, 195 and n⁵⁵⁷, n⁵⁵⁸, n⁵⁶⁰ grounds in, 193 imperial layette of, 198 industry Argentan, connection with, 204 centres of, 200 decline of, causes for, 192 early account of, 188-189 Edict of Nantes, effect of revocation of, 258 establishment of, 155-157 and n⁴⁵⁵ export trade, 192 method of manufacture, 192-194 Napoleon's patronage of, 196 number of lace-workers (1698), 191; (1786), 195; (1788), 192 n⁵⁵²; (1830), 196 origin of, 111 n³²³ quality of lace-work, 159 n⁴⁶⁴, 187, 194 revival of, 155 and n⁴⁵⁴, 196-197 value of (1786 and 1801), 195; (1830), 196 invention and establishment of, 155-157 and n⁴⁵⁵ lappet of, from Genoa, 78 and n²⁴⁴ "nun's work," 11 n³⁹ patterns, 190-191; dates of, 198-200; Venice patterns copied, 191 season for, 178 shaded tints introduced in, 201 and n⁵⁶⁷ specimens of, exhibited, 200, 201 time required in making, 198, 201 Venetian réseau, relation to, 58-59 "vilain," 191 n⁵⁵¹ ——— d'Angleterre Angleterre à bride, 408 Aurillac manufacture of, 247 Burano manufacture of, 62 butterfly and acorn pattern in, 408 France, fashionable in, 118 and n³³⁶ history of, 117 and n³³², and n³³³ point de France rivalled by, 178 ——— d'Argentan "Argentella" possibly a name for, 78 n²⁴⁴ Armada pattern lace worked in, 397 Burano manufacture of, 62 characteristic of, 207 compared, with point d'Alençon, 203, 204 and n⁵⁷¹; with point gaze, 123; with Venetian lace, 203, 204 n⁵⁷¹ description of, 203 ground in, 203 and n⁵⁷⁰, 204 n⁵⁷¹, 207-208 industry Alençon, connection with, 204 embroidery, replaced by, 208 n⁵⁸⁰ Guyard's revival of, 204-205 number of lace workers (c. 1744), 205; (1786), 195 rival houses, 205 value, annual (1786 and 1801), 195; (1788), 207 reference to (1738), 195 and n⁵⁵⁹ season for, 178 ——— d'Aurillac. 154, 246-249 ——— de Bourgogne, 255 ——— de Brabant, 138 n³⁹² ——— de Bruxelles. See Point d'Angleterre ——— à carreaux, 32 ——— à chaînette, 32 ——— des champs (point de Paris), 35 ——— Colbert, 188 n⁵⁴⁸, 228 ——— coupé (couppé), 17-18, 49, 140 et seq. ——— de Dieppe. See Dieppe ——— double (point de Paris), 35 ——— duchesse, 123 ——— d'Espagne. (See also Gold lace) brides in, 58 definition of, 90 England, importation to, prohibited, 358; Honiton imitation of, 410 Irish imitation of, 443 n¹²³³ point d'Aurillac compared with, 248 Portuguese laces compared with, 98, 106 Queen Elizabeth's, 307 references to, 98-99 n²⁸³, n²⁸⁵, 100, 103 n³⁰⁶, 354 ——— d'esprit, 32 and n⁹⁴, 229 ——— de Flandre (See also Flemish lace), 111, 144-145 ——— de France. (See also Point d'Alençon) description of, made at Alençon, 190 designs in, 158 n⁴⁶³ équipage, de bain of, 168 falbalas of, 167 and n⁴⁹² industry centres of, 157 n⁴⁵⁹, 159 n⁴⁵⁹, 210-211 and n⁵⁸⁴ Dumont, Mlle., foundress of, 105 n³¹² establishment and history of company, 157-158 and n⁴⁵⁹ Flanders, effect on, 111 method of working pattern in, 31 n⁹¹ ordinance of 1665, 157 and n⁴⁵⁹ rivals to, 177-178 popularity in France and England, 161-162 references to, 157 n⁴⁵⁹, 159 n⁴⁶⁴, 195 and n⁵⁵⁷, n⁵⁵⁸, n⁵⁵⁹, n⁵⁶⁰ ——— de Galle, thread lace from, 88 ——— Gaze, characteristics of, 123 ——— de Gênes (Genoa) collerette, 141 France, prohibited in, 148 n⁴³¹, 154 and n⁴⁵¹ history of, 72-73 and n²³⁰, 74 "Révolte des Passemens," mentioned in, 41,42 ——— de Hongrie, 265 ——— of Italy, first appearance in France, 144-145 ——— de Marli. See under Bayeux, lace industry. ——— de Milan, Irish imitation of, 443 ——— de Moscow, 284 ——— de neige (punto neve), 32 and n⁹⁷, 51 ——— de Paris, 32 and n⁹³, 35, 210, 212 ——— plat, 105 n³¹³, 118, 121 and n³⁴⁷, 122 and n³⁵⁰; appliqué, 123 ——— de raccroc, 120, 184, 226 ——— de Raguse, 41, 83 and n²⁵⁴, 84 ——— à la Reine, 32 ——— de Sedan. See Sedan ——— tresse, 314 ——— de Venise Alençon imitations of, 191 characteristics, 123 England, importation to, prohibited, 358 France, prohibited in, 154 and n⁴⁵¹ Guipure, 40 Irish imitation of, 442 Mary II., image of, shown wearing, 345 Mazarin's purchase of, 150, 151 Moscow imitations of, 284 origin of, 49-50 point à l'aiguille gazée so called, 123 point de Raguse so called, 83 resemblance of, to point d'Argentan, 203, 204 n⁵⁹¹; to Le Puy lace, 245; to point de Sedan, 254 "Révolte des Passemens," mentioned in, 41 rose point (raised), 51 and n¹⁷⁵, 62; price of, 57; Honiton reproduction of, 411, 416; Irish reproduction of, 443 n¹²³³, 444 Spanish conventual lace compared with, 93 theft of, 105 and n³¹³ ——— de Venise à réseau, 57, 58 Pointeuse, work of, 122 Points, lace known as, 2 Poitou, 256 Poking-sticks, 312 Poland Alençon, trade with, 192 and n⁵⁵³ point de Sedan imported to, 254 Pole, Lady, effigy of, 403 n¹¹⁴⁵, 405 Polignac, Madame de, 180 Polychrome lace, 62-63 Pomfret, Countess of, 99 n²⁸⁵ Pommereu, M. de, quoted, 191 and n⁵⁵⁰ Pomp office, 319 Pompadour, Madame de, 184 n⁵⁴⁰ Pompe di Minerva, Le, cited, 53 n¹⁸¹, 85, 92 n²⁶⁹ Ponchel, du. See Duponchel Pont-l'Evêque lace, 183 n⁵³⁹ Ponthièvre, Duke de, 100 and n²⁸⁸ Ponto fiamengho, 111 Pontoppidan, quoted, 274 n⁷³⁶ Pontus de Gardia, 280 Pope, quoted, 367 ——, the, apron worn by, for feet-washing ceremony, 70 and n²¹⁷ Popplewell Brothers, quoted, 345 Porlin, quoted, 306 n⁸⁵⁴ Porter, Mrs. Grey, 440 Portland, Duchess of, 353 Portugal American imports of lace from, 106 bone pins used in, 295 guipures exported to, 36 lace-making in, 105-107 and nn Le Puy, lace imported from, 245 sumptuary laws in, 105 Postlethwait, quoted, 354; cited, 396 Pot lace, 130 and n³⁶⁹ Potter, Amy, 366 n¹⁰⁸⁶ Poussin lace, 219 Poyntz, Adrian, 482 Prague, altar-cloth at, 9 Pridmore, Mr., 389 Princess Royal, bridal dress of, 409 Prior, quoted, 342 Prison-made lace, 81 and n²⁴⁸ Protection to English-made laces, etc., by English sovereigns Charles I., 330 Charles II., 335 George III., 359, 363 and n¹⁰⁶⁸ William III., 341 Puisieux lace, 212 n⁵⁸⁹ Puissieux, Madame de, 49 and n¹⁶², 73 Pultenarian collars, 253. Punto in aria (Burano point), 46, 51 and n¹⁷¹, 58, 62 Punto di cartella (cordella), 50 ——— a gropo, 52 ——— a maglia quadra (lacis), 52 ——— de mosquito e de transillas, 99 ——— di Napoli, 71 ——— neve (point de neige), 32 and n⁹⁷, 51 ——— pugliese, 71 n²²² ——— di Rapallo, 75 n²³⁷ ——— reale, 50 ——— a relievo (rose point—See under Point de Venise) ——— a reticella, 50 and n¹⁶⁸ ——— ricamento a maglia quadra, 21 ——— tagliato (cut-work), 51 ——— tagliato a fogliami, 51 and n¹⁷², 62 ——— tirato (drawn work), 53 and n¹⁸¹ ——— a Vermicelli, 75 n²³⁷ Purle lace, 310 and n⁸⁷⁵, n⁸⁷⁶, n⁸⁷⁷ Purling, 409 Purls, lace known as, 2 Puritans, lace industry under, in England, 332-334; in America, 372 n¹⁰⁹⁹ Puteau, Madame, 433 and n¹²¹⁴ Queensberry, Duchess of, 356 Quentell, P., 459 Quicherat, 139 Quilles, 127, 168 n⁴⁹⁶ Quintain, 19 and n⁶⁰, 20 Quinty, M., 268 ———, P., 459 Rabat, 141 and n⁴⁰³ Rabbits' hair, lace of 245. Radcliffe, Lady, 310 n⁸⁷⁵ Radford, Miss, lace school of, 416 and n¹¹⁶⁹ Raffy, Madame, 157 n⁴⁵⁸, 202 Ragusa, cut-works and laces of, 82-83 Rapallo, number of lace-workers at (1862), 76 Vermicelli lace from, 74, 75 and nn Ratcliff, Lady, 294 n⁷⁹¹ Rättwik lace, 281 Ravenna, lace school near, 81 n²⁴⁸ Rawert, cited, 274 n⁷³², 277 n⁷⁴¹ Ray, cited, 67 Réaux, Tallemant des, quoted 49; cited, 83 Rebecq-Rognon, flax grown at, 118 Récamier, Madame, 185 Regency point, 388 Regnard, quoted, 126 and n³⁵⁸, 167 n⁴⁹⁴ Regnier, quoted, 141 Reid, Miss, 440 Reiffenberg, Baron, cited, 109 and n³¹⁸ Relevailles of Parisian ladies, 174 Religious subjects in lace, etc, 324 Renaissance, cut-work of, 17 René, Maître, 140 n³⁹⁵ Renfrew, lace industry at, 433 Réseau (réseuil, rézel, rézeuil) Don Quixote, mentioned in, 98 n²⁸¹ methods of making, 120-121 needle-made by hand, 406 n¹¹⁵¹ nosacé, 78 specimens of rézeuil d'or, 23 n⁷⁴ uses of, 21 Venetian, relation of, to Alençon, 58-59 Restoring of old lace, 411, 412 Reticella (Italian) designs in, 68 Irish imitation of, 446 Retz, Cardinal de, 62 Revel, grave-clothes in church at, 366 n¹⁰⁸³ "Révolte des Passemens, La," quoted, 40 and n¹³⁴, 43, 104; cited, 83, 188 Rheims lace, 253 Rhodes, silk guipure of, 87 Riano, J. F., quoted, 93 Riazan lace, 283 Riband roses, 329 and n⁹⁵⁹ Ricci, Sebastian, cut work shown in "Last Supper" of, 79 n²⁴⁸ Rich, B., quoted, 317 n⁹⁰⁸ Richard II., statutes of, 216 n⁵⁹⁷ ———— III., 48, 294 n⁷⁹⁴ Richelieu, Duke, 144, 149 —————, Maréchal de, 171 Ripon, lace-making at, 371 and n¹⁰⁹⁵ Riviera (See also Albissola, Rapallo, Santa Margherita), lace manufacture of, 75, 79 and n²⁴⁵ Rob Roy cited, 423 Roberts, Mrs., 445; account of lace school supplied by, 388-390 Robinson Crusoe, Flanders lace bought by, 134 n³⁷⁹ Rodge, James, 401 Roger, Widow, 207 Rohan, Catherine de, 212 ——— family, 182 Roland, cited, 36 n¹¹³ ——— de la Platière, quoted, 154 n⁴⁵¹, 223 n⁶⁰⁸; cited, 245 n⁶⁵⁶ Romagna, lace-making in, 68 Romana, Lucretia, 498 ———, Lugretia, 497 Romans, embroidery used by, 3 and n¹³, 4 n¹⁴ Rome, Greek lace made at, 85 ——, King of, 196 Rondonneau, M., 152 n⁴⁴⁰ Rose point of Venice. See under Point de Venise Rosenborg Palace Museum, 273 Rosina Helena, Princess, 501 Ross, Mr., 482 Rossi, Giovanni, 483 Roumanian embroidery, 71 n²²² Rousseau, Jean Jacques, 270 Rowlands, quoted, 289 n⁷⁷³ Rudd, Margaret Caroline, 352 Rue, Abbé, cited, 6 Ruel, Sieur, 155 Ruelle, Veuve, 468 Ruff cut-work, of, 312-313 England, introduction into, 310 falling band the successor to, 326 France, in, 139-141 and n³⁹⁹ James I., under, 315-318 Medicean, 322 Nuremberg, 267 sermons against the, 316 starching and fluting of, 311-312 Ruffles fashion of, in George I.'s time, 351 ladies wearers of, 365 and n¹⁰⁷⁷ long, in George III.'s time, 363 and n¹⁰⁷⁰ making of, 194 origin of weeping, 171 Valenciennes industry affected by disappearance of, 231 Run lace, 441 Russell, Lady Rachel, 348 Russia embroidery of, 71 n²²² lace imported to, from Alençon, 192, 199; from Saxony, 263 lace industry in, 283-284 Ruvigne, M., 331 Rymer, cited, 291 n⁷⁸⁵ Sabbio, Fratelli de, 461 Sabenqua, 97 Sabière, M. de, 172 n⁵⁰⁵ Saffron Walden fair, 43 n¹³⁷ Sainte-Aignau, M. de, 216 Saint-Albin, Mgr. C. de, 173 and n⁵⁰⁸ St. Aligre, 247-248 and n⁶⁶³ Saint-Brice lace, 213 n⁵⁸⁹ St. Bridget, lace introduced into Sweden by, 278 and n⁷⁴³ St. Cuthbert cope and maniple of, 7 grave-clothes of, 14-15, 366 St. Denis lace, 210 St. Dunstan, embroideries designed by, 5 St. Eustadiole, 5 Saint François Régis, 243 St. Gervais, 207 n⁵⁷⁷ St. Giselle, 5 n¹⁸ St. Lawrence, Lady, 310 n⁸⁷⁶ St. Lo, cut-work toile d'honneur used at, 25 St. Louis, hospital at Argentan, 207 St. Margaret's, Westminster, lady ancress of, 293 St. Martin's lace, 331 n⁹⁶⁵ St. Mary at Hill, 293, 302 n⁸²⁸ Saint Maximien, lace of, 212 St. Nicholas, flax grown at, 118 n³³⁸ Saint-Pierre-les-Champs, lace of, 213 n⁵⁸⁹ St. Simon, quoted, 73, 166 St. Trond, lace industry of, 137 and n³⁹⁰, n³⁹¹ Salcombe, male lace-maker at, 413 Saltonstall, Mistress Susan, 483 Salviati, Joseph, 476 Samcloths, 23 and n⁷³ Samplars, 9 n³⁰, 23 and n⁷³ Sandford, cited, 285 n⁷⁵⁴ Sandwich, Lady, 166 Sta. Lucie, Pierre de, 464, 465 Santa Margherita number of lace-workers at (1862), 76 Vermicelli lace from, 74, 75 and nn Saracens, Italian lace-making attributed to, 45 Sarcelles lace, 213 n⁵⁸⁹ Sardinia deaf and dumb lace-workers in, 81 n²⁴⁸ Le Puy, annual value of lace brought from, 245 n⁶⁵⁷ Saule, Marchesa Barbaretta, 78 n²⁴⁴ Savary, quoted, 36 and n¹¹¹, 54, 64, 126, 133, 255, 257 n⁶⁸⁷, 404; cited, 74, 118 n³³⁸, 125, 129, 135, 192, 210, 244, 246 n⁶⁶¹, 247, 253 n⁶⁷⁷, 254 n⁶⁸¹, n⁶⁸³, 262, 377 Savinière, quoted, 153 and n⁴⁴³ Savoie, Don Philippe, 143 Savona, 77 n²⁴⁰, 79 n²⁴⁶ Savonarola, quoted, 67 Saxony lace industry Barbara Uttman's work, 260-262 cheap lace of, 246 degeneration of, 263 Dresden lace, 262-263 modern, 263 numbers employed (sixteenth century), 261 patterns imitated in Denmark, 275 revenue from (sixteenth century), 261 treillis d'Allemagne, mention, of, in French inventories, 262 and n⁷⁰¹ Scandinavian Museum, Copenhagen, 275 Scandinavians, lace work of, 4 Scarpariola, Cencia, 59, 61 Scarron, quoted, 177 ————, Veuve, 163 Schartzemberger, Johan, 462 Schleswig lace industry, quality of lace, 275; number of fabrics (1840), 277 —————, North, lace of, 272, 273; districts of lace industry, 276 n⁷³⁸ "Schole House for the Needle, A," 499 Schomberg, Col., quoted, 326 and n⁹⁴⁶ Schools, Lace Devonshire, 414, 415 and n¹¹⁶⁷, 416 Italian, 81 n²⁴⁸ Spratton, 388, 390 Schoulthem, Mr. Hey, quoted, 133-134 and n³⁸⁰ Schwartzenburg, John, 267 Scotch servant on old lace, 368 n¹⁰⁹⁰ Scotland lace manufacture of, 422, 425 n¹¹⁹⁹, 428-434 sumptuary laws in, 422 and n¹¹⁹⁵, 424 Scott, Sir Walter, quoted, 418 n¹¹⁷⁵, 427 and n¹²⁰² Scottish Advertiser (1769), quoted, 35 Sculptured lace coloured marbles, in, 71 Harefield church, in, 321 n⁹²⁷ Seaming lace, 107, 325 n⁹⁴¹, 332 Sedan lace, 183 n⁵³⁹, 253, 254 Sedgewicke, Elizabeth, 310 Sedley, Sir Charles, 13 and n⁴⁷ Séez black laces, 196 and n⁵⁶² Séguin, quoted, 113 n³²⁵, 139 n³⁹³; cited, 254 Select Society of Edinburgh, The, 429, 430 and nn Sempere Historia del Lujo, quoted, 102 Senior, Hannah, 12 Sera, Dominique de, cited, 92; Pattern Book of, 476 Sevenges, Madame de, 290 Sévigné, Madame de bequest to, 183 n⁵⁴⁰ quoted, 154 n⁴⁴⁸, 162 n⁴⁷⁷, 366 n¹⁰⁸⁴ Seville lace, 101 Sewell, quoted, 294 n⁷⁹⁴ Seymour, Lady Jane, 294 Sforza family, documents of, cited, 46, 50 n¹⁶⁸, 63, 74 n²³⁵ Shadwell, quoted, 343, 345 Shakespeare, laces mentioned by, 295, 303 and n⁸³¹; quoted, 309 n⁸⁷¹ Shakespeare Memorial, A, quoted, 325 n⁹⁴¹ Shandowes, Lady. See Chandos Shawe, quoted, 404 Sherborne, lace industry of, 396, 397 Sheridan, quoted, 346 Shirts adornments of, 15-16 Irish, 307, 435 Queen Elizabeth's present of, to her brother, 10 Spanish omission of, 97 n²⁷⁹ Shoes, lace rosette-trimmed, 329 Shrewsbury, Countess of, 11 Siam, King of (1614), 12 Sibmacher, 266, 490 Sicily, lace manufacture of, 80-81 Sicotière, Leon de la, 208 n⁵⁷⁹ Sidbury, lace school at, 414; lace lessons at, 416 n¹¹⁷⁰ Sidford, lace lessons at, 4l6 n³⁴ Sidmouth, lace school at, 416 and n¹¹⁶⁹ Sidney, Sir Philip, 304 Sidonian embroidery, 3 Siena lace, 68 Silk guipure. See Guipure —— lace Almagro, at, 102 n²⁹⁷ Chinese, 89 Cretan, 86 Ragusa, at (gimp), 84 Watling, 422 Silver lace (See also Aurillac lace) England, importation to, prohibited by, Queen Anne, 349; George II., 335 n⁹⁹³; confiscation and burning of foreign, 359 Hamburg, 264 Holland, introduction into, 259 India, exported to, 322 n⁹²⁸, 329 and n⁹⁵⁸ Ireland, exportation to, prohibited, 439 Large purchase of, by Lady Arabella Stuart, 325 Lyons, at, 256 Ragusa, at, 84 Scotland, wearing prohibited in, 422 Spanish, 100-102, 154, 211, 212 Zurich, 271 ——— net-work, collar of, 82 ——— purles, prohibition of English made, 330 330 ——— thread, duties on, leased to Dame Villiers, 328 Silvestre, cited, 463 n¹²⁷⁴, 464 Simiane, Madame de English point belonging to, 118 and n³³⁵ inventory of, quoted, 153 n⁴⁴⁴, 218 and n⁵⁹⁹ Sinclair, Sir John, quoted, 133-134 and n³⁸⁰, 428 ————, Miss Katherine, 419 n¹¹⁷⁶ Sir Courtly Nice, cited, 353 and n¹⁰⁵² Skelton, quoted, 251 n⁶⁶⁹ Skippin, quoted, 49 n¹⁶⁵, cited, 72 Slammerkins, 356 and n¹⁰⁵⁹ Slavonian peasants' work, 268 Sleeves, 341, 365 Sloper, Catherine, epitaph on, 13 Smith, Mother Mary Anne, 443 Smocks adornments of, 15 labourers' cut-work insertion on, 25 Smuggling of lace, account of, 357-362; of point de Bruxelles, 117; in 1621, 331; in Charles II's time, 336; Isle of Man a centre for, 372; to Scotland, 427 ————— of thread, 407 Smyrna, silk guipure of, 87 Smythe, Thomas, 425 Society of Anti-Gallicans. See Anti-Gallican ———— of Polite Arts, 262 n⁷⁰² Sol, José, 484 Soldiers lace made by, 225 rich laces of English, 345, 346 Sonderburg, vault of Schleswig-Holstein family at, 366 n¹⁰⁸² Sonnettes, 34 n¹⁰⁴ Sophie de France, 168 ———, Grand Duchess, 268 Soragana, Marchesa di, 486 Sorbière, Mons. de, 70 Souche, Lady, 309 n⁸⁷⁰ South Kensington Museum, Cretan laces in, 86 Southey, quoted, 303 n⁸³⁰ Spacing lace, 325 n⁹⁴¹ Spain America, lace exported to, 102 bone pins used in, 295 conventual lace work of, 93 earnings of lace-makers in, 102 embroidery of, 8 n²⁸, 10 and n³² French fashions influenced by, 147 gold and silver lace, use and manufactures of, 100-102; imported to, 212 grave clothes of grandees in, 366 and n¹⁰⁸⁵ guipures imported to, 36 holidays in, 102 n³⁰² lace imported to, from— Albissola, 77 Chantilly, 214 Dieppe, 219 Ghent, 133 Isle de France, 209 Le Puy, 245 and n⁶⁵⁷ Lorraine, 251 Marseilles, 101 Paris, 36, 212 Maestranza, the, uniforms of, 100 mantilla, kinds of, 102-103 and n³⁰⁵; mantillas exported to, 226 manufacture of lace in, centres of, before 1665, 44 n¹⁴⁴ Moresse, dentelles de, 104 numbers of lace-makers in, 99, 101, 102 n²⁹⁴, n²⁹⁷, 104 point of. See Point d'Espagne shirts frequently unworn in (1686), 97 n²⁷⁹ sumptuary laws of, 90, 97, 101 two kinds of lace made in, 103 n³⁰⁵ Spangles, 335; of bobbins, 391 n¹¹²⁷ Spanish-American colonies, Chantilly lace exported to, 214 ———— Indies, Brabant lace exported to, 129 guipures exported to, 36 Le Puy lace, annual consumption of, 245 n⁶⁵⁷ Spelle werk, 32 n⁹⁸ Spenser, quoted, 303 n⁸³⁰ Spider net, 448 ——— -work, 20 Spiral design, 7 Spratton, lace school at, 388-390 Staël, Madame de, 180 Stafford, Bishop, monument of, 405 and n¹¹⁵⁰ Stair, Lord, 99 n²⁸⁵ Starch, yellow, 307, 317 and n⁹⁰⁶, 435 Starching, introduction of, into England, 311; tools used for fluting and, 311-312 Steadman, Anne, 440 Steenbeck, 274 Steinkirk lace, 167 and n⁴⁹¹, 344 and n¹⁰²¹, 345, 364 Stephens, quoted, 302 n⁸²⁸ Stepney, Lady, 369 Sterne, cited, 172 Stisted, Mrs., cited, 474 and n¹³⁰⁸, 487 Stock, lace cravat succeeded by, 345 Stockholm museums, lace in, 282 Stone, quoted, 140 Stoney Stratford, lace industry of, 375 n¹¹⁰⁵, 379 and n¹¹¹⁷ Stothard, Mrs., quoted, 216 n⁵⁹⁴ Stowe, cited, 294 n⁷⁹³; quoted, 310, 311 and n⁸⁷⁹, 312 Strafford, statuette of Earl of, 367 Strasburg, Archbishops of. See Rohan family. Stratford-upon-Avon, embroidered bed linen at, 325 n⁹⁴¹ Strauben, George, 271, 487 Strickland, Miss, quoted, 420 n¹¹⁸⁴ Striqueuse, work of, 122 Strutt, Jedediah, 448 n¹²³⁹ Strype, quoted, 38, 297 and n⁸¹³ Stuart, Arabella, 325 ———, Mary, See Mary Stuart Stubbes, quoted, 16, 313 and n⁸⁹² Stuora, 53 and n¹⁷⁹ Sturbridge fair, 43 and n¹⁴⁰ Stures family, 282 Suffolk, Duchess, 292 ————, Earl of, 319 and n⁹¹⁷, n⁹¹⁸ ————, lace industry of, 394 Sully, 142, 210 Sumptuary laws Denmark, 274 and n⁷³³, n⁷³⁵ England, 285, 286, 288, 289, 290 and n⁷⁷⁶, 291, 293, 306 and n⁸⁵⁵, 319 France, 64, 141 and n⁴⁰⁴, n⁴⁰⁵, 144, 147 and n⁴²⁹, 148 and n⁴³¹, 152, 154 and n⁴⁵⁰, 158 and n⁴⁶⁰, 212, 243 Genoa, 73 Ireland (192 A.D.), 435, 436 and n¹²²⁰ Portugal, 105 "Révolte des Passemens, La," 40-43 Scotland, 422 and n¹¹⁹⁵, 424 Spain, 90, 97, 101 Turkey, 87 Venice, 48, 57, 79 n²⁴⁵ Zurich, 270 Sweden cut-work in, 25, 280 grave-clothes, lace adorned, 366 lace industry, bobbin lace of, 280 established at Wadstena, 278 growth of, 279 peasant lace work for home use, 281-282 Spanish point and guipure in museums, 282 sheets, laced, 280 Swift, quoted, 124, 339, 349 n¹⁰³⁷, 352, 436 Swinburne, Thos. (1572), 301 n⁸²² ————— (1775), quoted, 101 ————— (1786), quoted, 176 Switzerland, lace industry in, French refugees, settlement of, 269 mignonette made (1665), 35 Neufchâtel. See that title origin of, 269 pattern books, 271 statistics of, 270 and n⁷²⁷ Zurich sumptuary laws, 270-271 Sylvius, Balthazar, 469 Syon Monastery cope, 7 Syracuse, Count of, quoted, 369 Tabin, B., 476 Taglienti, pattern-book of, 50 n¹⁶⁸, 51 n¹⁷¹, 52 n¹⁷⁶, n¹⁷⁸, 53 n¹⁸¹, 71 n²²², 82 n²⁵², 460 Talavera de la Regna, lace made at, 101 Talbot, Gilbert, 304 Tallies, 78 and n¹⁵⁴ Talma lace, 186 Talon, 158 n⁴⁶⁰ Tambour work, Hamilton, 434 n¹²¹⁶ Irish, 440, 441 and n¹²³⁰, 442 n¹²³¹ oriental, 440, 441 Tape lace, 116, 414 n¹¹⁶⁵ Tapestry, Greek lace a substitute for, 85-86 Tarnete (trina), 46 Tatler, quoted, 296 n⁸⁰⁶ Tatting, Manilla grass, 89 n²⁶⁵ Tax-books, Genoese, cited, 72 n²²⁴ Taylor, John, quoted, 323 and n⁹³³, 329; cited 500 Temple, Earl, 380 Tessada, Signore, old lace of, 72 n²²⁵, 73 n²³²; cited, 76 n²³⁸ Têtes de More (de mort, de moire), 36 and n¹¹³ Thelusson, Symphorien, 269 Theodoret, J., 469 Thierzac, lacis at, 248 Thomond, Earl of, 12 Thomsen, Prof., quoted, 272 Thomysi, Eleazaro, 481 Thread, importance of using fine (see also under Lille), 393 and n¹¹⁰⁴, 446 ——— lace Cyprian, 82 hand spinners of, protest by, 335 importation of, prohibited by George III., 355 n¹⁰⁴⁷ Thynne, quoted, 298 n⁸¹⁶ Tickell, quoted, 169 n⁴⁹⁷ Tighe, Mr., cited, 440 n¹²²⁸ Tiverton, first machine net factory at, 408 Toilé, 30 and n⁸⁹ Toile d'arraignée, Paraguayan, 108 Toledo, Donna Teresa de, 103 Tombs. See Grave-clothes Tönder lace industry, 274, 275, 277 and n⁷⁴⁰, n⁷⁴² Toquet, 340 Torchon Milanese, 66 prison-made at Perugia, 81 n²⁴⁸ Saxony fabric, 263 Sicilian, 81 Spanish, 102 n²⁹⁷ Torello, 469 Torteroli, Sig. Don Tommaso, 79 n²⁴⁶ Tory, G., 476 Tottenham, Mrs. George, 446 Toul, "tulle" probably derived from, 250-251 and n⁶⁶⁹ Tournantes, 168 n⁴⁹⁶ Tournay, flax grown at, 118 n³³⁸ Tours, cope presented to Church of St. Martin at, 5 Towcester, lace industry at, 382 Travancore, pillow-laces of, 88 Treadwin, Mrs. cited, 401 n¹¹⁴⁰, 407, 413 Honiton lace industry, efforts for, 410, 411, 416 Trevelyan, Miss Audrey, 417 Trezola, 474 n¹³¹¹ Trina, 46 and n¹⁵⁰, n¹⁵² Trolle Bonde, Count, 282 ——— kant, 115-116 Trollopies, 356 and n¹⁰⁵⁹ Trolly ground, 386 ——— lace, 371 n¹⁰⁹⁵, 412-414 Trotman, Acting Consul, cited, 89 Trousse, Mlle. de la, cited, 40 n¹³⁴ Troyaux, Mons., 124 Tucker, Mrs. Marwood, 407 n¹¹⁵⁴ Tulle (town), manufactures of, 250 Tulle embroidered, 229 German manufacture of, 250 lace discarded in favour of, 187 Marie Antoinette, at Court of, 180 origin of name, 250 predecessor of, 225 Turkey oyah made in, 45, 87 silk gimp specimens from, 85 sumptuary laws in, 87 tambour work in, 441 Turn, 401 n¹¹⁴⁰ Turner, Mrs., yellow starch invented by, 307, 317 and n⁹⁰⁶, 435 Turnhout, Mechlin lace made at, 125; number of fabrics (1803), 131 Turin, fashion at Court of, 153 n⁴⁴⁵ Tuscan lacis, 52-53, 68 Tussaud, Madame, 143 n⁴¹² Twopenny, Mr. W., 286 n⁷⁶¹ Tynan lace industry, 442, 443 Tyrol (Austrian) lace industry, 268 Udine, lace school at, 81 n²⁴⁸ Unbleached thread, pattern worked in, 338 Underclothing lace-trimmed, in Scotland, 426 United States. See America Urbino, lace making in, 68 Urbino, Duchess, 471 Ursins, Madame des, 99, 172 Ustariz, quoted, 102 Uttman, Barbara, 260-262, 447 Val de Travers, rivalry with Mirecourt, 252, 270 Valcameos, 246 Valencia gold and silver lace made at, 101 saints' images decked in lace at, 100 Valenciennes Lace compared with Binche, 135; with Dutch, 260; with Eu lace, 221; with Isle of Man lace, 372 n¹⁰⁹⁶; with Lille, 237; with Mechlin, 233; with point de Dieppe, 220; with Welsh lace, 371 n¹⁰⁹⁴ cost of (1788), 234 and n⁶²⁷ fault of, 235 n⁶²⁹ Honiton reproduction of, 416 industry centres of, 132; after French Revolution, 231 n⁶²⁴; expense and labour in making, 233; cost of thread, 234 n⁶²⁷ decline of, 231 establishment of, date, 230 French Revolution, effect of, 183 n⁵³⁹ method of working pattern in, 31 numbers employed (18th century), 230; (1790 and 1851), 231; at Ypres (1684 and 1850), 131 period of highest merit, 234-235 time required in producing, 233-234 value of Belgium monopoly, 132 and n³⁷⁶ wages and conditions of work, 233 point a misnomer for, 32 réseau of, 66 varieties of Alost (ground stitch), 133 Bailleul, 241 Bohemia, 268 Bruges, 132-133 Courtrai, width of, 131 n³⁷³; compared with Ypres, 132; ground stitch, 133 n³⁷⁷; character of, 232 n⁶²⁴ Dijon, 255 fausses Valenciennes, manufactories of, 241, 387 Ghent (ground stitch), 133 n³⁷⁷ Le Puy, 230 and n⁶¹⁹, 245 vrai Valenciennes, 231 and n⁶²⁴ Ypres, description of, 131, 231 n⁶²⁴; value of, 131 n³⁷³; ground and pattern, 131-133 Valentine de Milan, 139 n³⁹³ Valets, extravagance of, 173 and n⁵¹⁴ Valguarnera, Prince, 71 Valladolid, lace-trimmed banner at, 100 Valois line, influence of, on French fashions, 139 Valuables of Glenurquhy, quoted, 325 and n⁹³⁸ Valvassore's heirs, pattern book of, 476 Van Even, Edward, cited, 110 n³²⁰ Van Eyck, Jacob, quoted, 111 and n³²² Van Londonzeel, Assuerus, 111 Vandyke edges, origin of term, 448 n¹²⁴¹ Vatican, laces of, 70 Vavassore, Giovanni Andrea, 466, 467, 472 Vecellio cited, 71 and n²²¹ Corona of, 8 n²⁸, 29, 50 n¹⁶⁷, 111, 484, 486 Veils, bridal, 78; English, fourteenth century, 285 Vélay lace industry (See also Le Puy), fifteenth century, 242; 18th century, 244; thread used, 245 Venezuela, lace of, 108 Venice Billament lace of, 48 and n¹⁵⁹ blonde, formerly made in, 59 n¹⁹⁵ Brussels lace worn at, 57 and n¹⁹² Colbert, ordinance of, trade affected by, 54 collar made for Louis XIII. at, 194 emigration of workers restricted, 159 n⁴⁶⁵ English imports from, 43, 288, 307 n⁸⁶³, n⁸⁶⁴; prohibited, 358 fashion dolls at St. Mark's fair, 170 n⁵⁰¹ frauds of lace-makers in, 48, 67, 288 gold work of, 288, 307 n⁸⁶³, n⁸⁶⁴ Greek lace made at, 85 Medici collars made at, 56 numbers employed on lace-making in, 63 Point of. See Point de Venise polychrome lace, introduction of, 62-63 sumptuary laws in, 48, 57, 79 n²⁴⁵ Swiss lace from, origin of, 269 travellers' allusions to products of, 55, 57 varieties of lace supplied by, 50-53, 57-58 Verbruggen, 129 n³⁶⁷ Verceilles, 249 Verghetti, 56 Vermicelli lace, 74 Verney Papers, quoted, 319 n⁹¹⁶ Verona, St. John, life of, executed in needlework at, 8 n²⁶ Veronese, Paul, macramé in picture, by, 79 n²⁴⁸ Verulam, Lord, 101 and n²⁸⁹ Viarmes lace, 212 Victoria, Queen Honiton lace flounces ordered by, 410 Isle of Wight lace patronised by, 372 n¹⁰⁹⁷ State liveries of, 174 n⁵¹⁶ trousseau of, 392, 409 Victoria and Albert Museum Alençon in, 193 n⁵⁵⁵ Bock exhibits in, 23 n⁷⁴ Cyprian lace in, 82 Danish embroideries in, 275 Genoese lappet in, 78 and n²⁴⁴ German specimens in, 264; Nuremberg ruffs, 267 Hungarian peasant lace in, 268 Irish imitation Venetian point in, 443 n¹²³³ lacis borders in, 20-21 Norwegian cut-work in, 280 n⁷⁴⁷ pale of rose point in, 51 Paraguayan drawn-work at, 108 pattern-books in, 467 n¹²⁸⁷, 468, 470, 477, 488 n¹³³⁷, 490 n¹³⁴⁴, 497 n¹³⁶¹, 501 n¹³⁷⁰, 502 n¹³⁷¹ Slavonian peasants' work in, 268 Suffolk laces in, 394 Syon Monastery cope in, 7 tape lace in, 116 Villemarqué, cited, 229 n⁶¹⁶ Villiers, Dame Barbara, 328 ————, Sir Edward, 319 n⁹¹⁸ ————, Sir George, 318 Villiers-le-Bel, lace-making at, 209, 213 n⁵⁸⁹ Vimoutier, 204 Vinciolo, Frederick Katharine de Médicis the patroness of, 11,17 pattern book of, 49, 136, 144, 477-482, 487, 494 Virginière, Blaise de, quoted, 140, 141 and n⁴⁰¹ Vittoria, Sister Felice, 93 Volant, origin of name, 168 n⁴⁹⁶ Vologda lace, 283 Voltaire, quoted, 166 n⁴⁹⁰ Vorsterman, William, 180, 463 Vos, Martin de, engravings after, 106 and n²⁶⁸ Vrai réseau, bride succeeded by, 406 Vrillière, Mgr. de la, 162 n⁴⁷⁵ Waborne lace, 300 and n⁸¹⁹ Wace, Robert, cited, 202 Wadstena lace industry, 278-280 Wages of lace-workers. See Earnings Wakefield, quoted, 440 n¹²²⁸ Waldgrave, Sir Edward, 293 Wales, lace-making in, 371 and n¹⁰⁹⁴ ———, Princess of, 409 Walker, Charles, 441 and n¹²³⁰, 442 Walpole, cited, 297 n⁸⁰⁸, 356 and n¹⁰⁶⁰ Walsingham, 307 n⁸⁶⁰, 420 n¹¹⁸² —————, Lady Audrye, 64, 320 n⁹²⁵ Wareham, lace found in Scandinavian barrow near, 4 Warwick, Lord, 333 Warton, J., quoted, 121 and n³⁴⁹ Washing of ecclesiastical lace, 373 n¹¹⁰¹ Waterloo, hospital for English wounded at, 124 Waterman, Mrs. Elizabeth, 395 Watling silk lace, 422 Watt, cited, 482 n¹³²⁹ Weaving Book, 280 Webb, Mr., 51 Weber, cited, 280 n⁷⁵⁸ Weigel, Christoph, 501 ———, Joh. Christoph, 502 Weisse, C., cited, 259 n⁶⁹³, 264 n⁷⁰⁷ West Indies, Spanish lace sold in, 102 n²⁹⁴ Westcote, quoted, 400; cited, 401 Westminster procession of lace-makers to, 360 St. Margaret's, lace washing from, 373 n¹¹⁰¹ ——————, Dean of, forbids yellow starch, 317 —————— Abbey epitaph in cloisters of, 13 lace on images in, 316 n⁹⁰¹, 345 Westphalia Jutland industry improved by workers from, 274 thread, fineness of, 119 n³³⁹ Whisks, 334 Whitcomb, John, widow of, 17 White, Edward, 482 ——— Knight's sale, 497 Wieselgren, H., cited, 493 n¹³⁵⁴ Wight, Isle of, lace industry of, 372 and n¹⁰⁹⁷ Wigs, cost of, 349 falling bands put out of fashion by, 336 Wilhelmina of Bayreuth, 99 n²⁸³ Willemin, cited, 475 n¹³¹³ William III., period of, 341-346 ———— of Malmesbury, quoted, 6 ———— of Normandy, 6-7 ———— of Poictiers, quoted, 7 ———— the Silent, 260 Willingham, Geo., letter to, cited, 98 n²⁸² Wilton, Lady, cited, 497 Wiltshire and Dorsetshire lace, 395-398 Winchester, lace purchased at, by Anne of Denmark, 320 —————, Lady Marquis of, 309 n⁸⁷⁰ Wire, gold and silver lace made from, 72 —— ground, 386 Wiseman, Cardinal, lace alb used by, 92-93 Wolfe, I., 482 Wolsey, Cardinal, lace of, 292 Women, lace work of, compared with that of men, 263 Woodbury Maltese lace imitation made at, 414 n¹¹⁶⁵ men lace-makers at, 413 Woollen manufacture in England lace manufacture next to, in 1698, 402 loss to, from edict against Flanders lace 341, 342, 349 Worcester, Countess of, 313 Wotton, Sir Henry, 136 n³⁸⁵ Wraxall, cited, 105, 142; quoted, 263 Wulff, Jens, 276 and n⁷³⁹ Wyatt, Sir Thomas, 294 Wyriot, Madame, 205 Yarranton, Andrew, quoted, 114-115 and n³²⁷; cited 259 n⁶⁹⁶ Yemenis, M., cited, 488 n¹³³⁹ Yokohama, lace school at, 417 Yorck lace, 138 n³⁹² York, Cardinal, 421 Youghal Convent, lace-making at, 443, 444 Young, A., cited, 192 n⁵⁵², 207, 223, 224, 244; quoted, 234 n⁶²⁷, 239 Ypres Valenciennes. See under Valenciennes Yriarte, Charles, cited, 159 n⁴⁶⁵ Zante, Greek lace made at, 85 Zedler, cited, 57 Zoppino, Nicolo, 461, 462 Zouch, Lord, cited, 136 n³⁸⁵ Zurich, sumptuary laws of, 270 and n⁷²⁸