INDEX (continued 4)

[902]

Every Man Out of His Humour, 1599.

Again, in his Silent Woman, he says:—

[903]

"Second Acc. of Sir John Villiers, 1617-8." P. R. O.

"150 yards of fyne bone lace for six extraordinary ruff's provided against his Majesty's marriage, at 9s., 67s. 10d."—Extraordinary Expenses. 1622-6. P. R. O.

[904]

State Papers Dom., Jac. I. Vol. iii., No. 89. P. R. O.

[905]

Jasper Mayne. 1670.

[906]

"Mistris Turner, the first inventresse of yellow starch, was executed in a cobweb lawn ruff of that color at Tyburn, and with her I believe that yellow starch, which so much disfigured our nation and rendred them so ridiculous and fantastic, will receive its funerall."—Howel's Letters. 1645.

[907]

State Papers Dom., James I. Vol. cxiii. No. 18.

[908]

We read that in 1574 the Venetian ladies dyed their lace the colour of saffron. The fashion may therefore be derived from them.

"He is of England, by his yellow band."—Notes from Black Fryers. Henry Fitzgeffery. 1617.

"Now ten or twenty eggs will hardly suffice to starch one of these yellow bandes."—Barnaby Rich. The Irish Hubbub, or the English Hue and Cry. 1622.

Killigrew, in his play called The Parson's Wedding, published in 1664, alludes to the time when "yellow starch and wheel verdingales were cried down"; and in The Blind Lady, a play printed in 1661, a serving-man says to the maid: "You had once better opinion of me, though now you wash every day your best handkerchief in yellow starch."

[909]

La Courtisane à la Mode, selon l'Usage de la Cour de ce Temps. Paris, 1625.

[910]

Carlo, in Every Man Out of His Humour. 1599.

[911]

"Eidem pro 29 virg' le opere sciss' bon' Italic', ad 35s., £68 5s."—Gt. W. A. Jac. I. 5 & 6.

[912]

The New Inn.

[913]

Advice to Sir George Villiers.

[914]

See Parliamentary History of England.

Sir Giles was proceeded against as "a monopolist and patentee," and sentenced to be degraded and banished for life.

[915]

Speech in Parliament. Rushout Papers. Vol. xi., p. 916.

[916]

"The office or grant for sealing bone lace was quashed by the King's proclamation, 1639, dated from his manour of York."—Verney Papers.

[917]

B. M. Bib. Lands. 172, No. 59.

[918]

1604. Sept. 27. Patent to Ric. Dike and others to make Venice gold and silver thread for 21 years.—State Papers Dom., Jas. I. Vol. ix. 48.

1604. Dec. 30. Lease of the customs on gold and silver thread.—Ibid. Vol. x.

1605. Feb. 2. The same. Ibid. Vol. xii.

1611. May 21. Patent to Ric. Dike renewed.—Ibid. Vol. lxiii. 9.

In the same year (June 30) we find a re-grant to the Earl of Suffolk of the moiety of all seizures of Venice gold and silver formerly granted in the fifth year of the King.—Ibid. Vol. lxiv. 66.

In 1622 a lease on the customs on gold and silver thread lace is given to Sir Edward Villiers.—Ibid. Vol. cxxxii. 34.

[919]

Ibid. Vol. cxxi. 64.

[920]

Ibid. Vol. cxxxii. 34.

[921]

In 1624 King James renews his prohibition against the manufacture of "gold purles," as tending to the consumption of the coin and bullion of the kingdom.—Fœdera, Vol. xvii., p. 605.

[922]

Petition. April 8, 1623.—State Papers, Vol. cxlii. 44. See Chap. xxx.

[923]

"Twoe payer of hande rebayters," i.e., cuffs.

[924]

In the P. R. O. (State Papers Dom., James I. 1603, Sept. Vol. iii. No. 89) is "A Memorandum of that Misteris Jane Drum̄onde her recyte from Ester Littellye, the furnishinge of her Majesties Linen Cloth," a long account, in which, among numerous other entries, we find:—

"It. at Basinge. Twenty four yeardes of small nidle work, at 6s. the yearde, £7 4s.

"More at Basinge. One ruffe cloth, cumbinge cloth and apron all shewed with white worke, at 50s. the piece, £7 10s.

"It. one pece of fine lawin to bee a ruffe, £5.

"Item, for 18 yeards of fine lace to shewe the ruffe, at 6s. the yearde, £5 8s.

"Item, 68 purle of fair needlework, at 20 pence the purle, £5 15s. 4d.

"Item, at Winchester, the 28th of September, one piece of cambrick, £4.

"Item, for 6 yards of fine purle, at 20s., £6.

"Item, for 4 yards of great bone lace, at 9s. the yard, 36s.

Queen Anne has also a fair wrought sark costing £6, and a cut-work handkerchief, £12, and 2 pieces of cut-work, ell wide and 2 yards long, at £2. the length, etc.

[925]

Lady Audrye Walsingham's Account. 1606.—P. R. O.

[926]

Mary, her third daughter, died 1607, not two years of age. Mrs. Greene quotes from the P. R. O. a note of the "necessaries to be provided for the child," among which are six large cambric handkerchiefs, whereof one is to be edged with "fair cut-work to lay over the child's face"; six veils of lawn, edged with fair bone lace; six "gathered bibs of fine lawn with ruffles edged with bone lace," etc. The total value of the lace and cambric required for the infant's garments is estimated at £300.—Lives of the Princesses of England. Vol. vi., p. 90.

[927]

England is rich in monumental effigies decorated with lace—too many to enumerate. Among them we would instance that of Alice, Countess of Derby, died 1636, in Harefield Church, Middlesex, in which the lace is very carefully sculptured.—Communicated by Mr. Albert Hartshorne.

[928]

1620-1. We have entries of "falling bands" of good cambric, edged with beautiful bone lace, two dozen stitched and shagged, and cut-work nightcaps, purchased for James I., in the same account, with 28s. for "one load of hay to stuff the woolsacks for the Parliament House."—G. W. Acc. Jac. I. 18 to 19.

In the same year, 1620, an English company exported a large quantity of gold and silver lace to India for the King of Golconda.

[929]

Malcontent. 1600.

[930]

Extraordinary expenses, 1622-26. P. R. O.

[931]

"2nd Acc. of Sir J. Villiers. 1617-18." P. R. O.

[932]

Gt. W. A. Jac. I. 6 to 7.

[933]

Taylor. 1640:—

[934]

"Acc. of Sir Lyonell Cranfield (now Earl of Middlesex), late Master of the Great Wardrobe, touching the funeral of Queen Anne, who died 2nd March, 1618 (i.e. 1619 N. S.). P. R. O.

[935]

About this time a complaint is made by the London tradesmen, of the influx of refugee artizans, "who keepe theire misteries to themselves, which hath made them bould of late to device engines for workinge lace, &c., and such wherein one man doth more among them than seven Englishmen can doe, soe as theire cheape sale of those commodities beggareth all our English artificers of that trade and enricheth them," which becomes "scarce tolleruble," they conclude. Cecil, in consequence, orders a census to be made in 1621. Among the traders appears "one satten lace maker."

Colchester is bitterly irate against the Dutch strangers, and complains of one "Jonas Snav, a Bay and Say maker, whose wife selleth blacke, browne, and white thredde, and all sorts of bone lace and vatuegardes, which they receive out of Holland. One Isaac Bowman, an Alyen born, a chirurgeon and merchant, selleth hoppes, bone lace, and such like, to the great grievance of the free burgesses."

A nest of refugee lace-makers, "who came out of France by reason of the late 'trobles' yet continuing," were congregated at Dover (1621-2). A list of about five-and-twenty "widows, being makers of Bone lace," is given, and then Mary Tanyer and Margarett Le Moyne, "maydens and makers of bone lace," wind up the catalogue of the Dover "Alyens."

The Maidstone authorities complain that the thread-makers' trade is much decayed by the importation of thread from Flanders.—List of Foreign Protestants resident in England. 1618-88. Printed by the Camden Society.

[936]

Jasper Mayne.

[937]

Beaumont and Fletcher.

[938]

"Valuables of Glenurquhy, 1640." Innes' Sketches of Early Scotch History.

[939]

Collars of Hollie worke appear in the Inventories of Mary Stuart.

[940]

"Thomas Hodges, for making ruffe and cuffes for his Highness of cuttworke edged with a fayre peake purle, £7."—2nd Account of Sir J. Villiers. Prince Charles. 1617-18. P. R. O.

"40 yards broad peaked lace to edge 6 cupboard cloths, at 4s. a yard, £8."—Ibid.

[941]

"Seaming" lace and spacing lace appear to have been generally used at this period to unite the breadths of linen, instead of a seam sewed. We find them employed for cupboard cloths, cushion cloths, sheets, shirts, etc., throughout the accounts of King James and Prince Charles.

"At Stratford-upon-Avon is preserved, in the room where Shakspeare's wife, Anne Hathaway, was born, an oaken linen chest, containing a pillow-case and a very large sheet made of homespun linen. Down the middle of the sheet is an ornamental open or cut-work insertion, about an inch and a half deep, and the pillow-case is similarly ornamented. They are marked E. H., and have always been used by the Hathaway family on special occasions, such as births, deaths, and marriages. This is still a common custom in Warwickshire; and many families can proudly show embroidered bed linen, which has been used on state occasions, and carefully preserved in old carved chests for three centuries and more."—A Shakspeare Memorial. 1864.

[942]

The Truth of the Times. W. Peacham. 1638.

[943]

State Papers Dom. Jas. I. Vol. lxxii. No. 28.

[944]

Warrant on the Great Wardrobe. 1612-13. Princess Elizabeth's marriage.

[945]

Frankfort fair, at which most of the German princes made their purchases.

[946]

German Correspondence. 1614-15.—P. R. O.

We find among the accounts of Col. Schomberg and others:—

"To a merchant of Strasbourg, for laces which she had sent from Italy, 288 rix-dollars." And, in addition to numerous entries of silver and other laces:—

"Pour dentelle et linge karé pour Madame, 115 florins."

"Donné Madame de Caus pour des mouchoirs à point couppée pour Madame, £4."

"Une petite dentelle à point couppé, £3," etc.

Point coupé handkerchiefs seem to have been greatly in fashion. Ben Jonson, "Bartholomew Fair," 1614, mentions them:—

"A cut-work handkerchief she gave me."

[947]

See Snelling's Coins. Pl. ix. 8, 9, 10.

[948]

Ibid. Pl. ix. 5, 6, 11.

[949]

Evelyn, describing a medal of King Charles I., struck in 1633, says he wears "a falling band, which new mode succeeded the cumbersome ruff; but neither did the bishops or the judges give it up so soon, the Lord Keeper Finch being, I think, the very first."

[950]

In 1633, the bills having risen to £1,500 a year, a project is made for reducing the charge for the King's fine linen and bone lace, "for his body," again to £1,000 per annum, for which sum it "may be very well done."—State Papers, Chas. I. Vol. ccxxxiv. No. 83.

[951]

"Paid to Smith Wilkinson, for 420 yards of good Flanders bone lace for 12 day ruffes and 6 night ruffes 'cum cuffes eisdem,' £87 15s.

"For 6 falling bands made of good broad Flanders lace and Cuttworks with cuffs of the same, £52 16s."—Gt. W. A. Car. I. 6 = 1631.

[952]

See G. W. A., Mich., 1629, to April, 1630.

[953]

Twelfth-Night.

[954]

G. W. A. Car. I. The Annunciation 9 to Mich. 11.

[955]

Ibid. 8 and 9.

[956]

State Papers Dom. Charles I. Vol. cxlix. No. 31.

[957]

In a letter to Mr. Edward Nicholas, Sec. of the Admiralty, March 7th, 1627 (afterwards Sec. of State to Chas. II.).—St. P. D. Chas. I. Vol. cxxiii. 62.

Among the State Papers (Vol. cxxvi. 70), is a letter from Susan Nicholas to her "loveing Brother," 1628. About lace for his band, she writes: "I have sent you your bootehose and could have sent your lase for your band, but that I did see these lasees which to my thought did do a greddeale better then that wh you did bespeake, and the best of them will cost no more then that which is half a crowne a yard, and so the uppermost will cost you, and the other will cost 18 pence; I did thinke you would rather staye something long for it then to pay so deare for that wh would make no better show; if you like either of these, you shall have it sone desptch, for I am promise to have it made in a fortnight. I have received the monie from my cousson Hunton. Heare is no news to wright of. Thus with my best love remembred unto you, I rest your very loving sister,

"I have sent ye the lase ye foyrst bespoke, to compare them together, to see which ye like best."

[958]

In 1620 an English company exported a large quantity of gold and silver lace to India for the King of Golconda.

[959]

W. Peacham, Truth of the Times. 1638.

Hamlet says there are

"I like," says Evelyn, "the boucle better than the formal rose."—Tyrannus, or the Mode.

[960]

This proclamation is dated from "our Honour of Hampton Court, 30th April, 1635."—Rymer's Fœdera. T. 19, p. 690.

[961]

When Anne of Austria was suspected of secret correspondence with Spain and England, Richelieu sent the Chancellor to question the Abbess of the Val-de-Grâce with respect to the casket which had been secretly brought into the monastery. The Abbess (Vie de la Mère d'Arbouse) declared that this same casket came from the Queen of England, and that it only contained lace, ribbons, and other trimmings of English fashion, sent by Henrietta Maria as a present to the Queen.—Galerie de l'Ancienne Cour. 1791.

[962]

State Papers Dom. Vol. cxxiii. No. 65.

[963]

"Rhodon and Iris, a Pastoral." 1631.

[964]

"Ornatus Muliebris Anglicanus." 1645.

[965]

"You must to the Pawn (Exchange) to buy lawn, to St. Martin for lace."—Westward Ho. 1607.

"A copper lace called St. Martin's lace."—Strype.

[966]

Taylor, "Whip of Pride." 1640.

[967]

In Eastward Ho, 1605, proud Gertrude says: "Smocks of three pound a smock, are to be born with all."

[968]

"Bartholomew Fair." 1614.

[969]

[970]

[971]

A suite of russet "laced all over with silver curle lace."—"Expenses of Robt. Sidney, Earl of Leicester. Temp. Chas. I."

[972]

[973]

Notes from Black Fryers.

[974]

Jasper Mayne. "Amorous War." 1659.

[975]

"The Little French Lawyer."

[976]

Memoirs.

[977]

The Cromwell Family.

[978]

Sir Philip Warwick. 1640.

[979]

At the Restoration, it was removed from the Abbey and hung out of the window at Whitehall, and then broken up and destroyed.

[980]

1661, Nov. 20. State Papers. Dom. Charles II. Vol. xliv. P. R. O.

[981]

"To William Briers, for making the Colobium Sindonis of fine lawn laced with fine Flanders lace, 33s. 4d.

"To Valentine Stucky, for 14 yards and a half of very fine Flanders lace for the same, at 18s. per yard, £12 6s. 6d."—"Acc. of the E. of Sandwich, Master of the G. W. for the Coronation of King Charles II. 23 April, 1661." P. R. O.

[982]

In the G. W. A. for 29 and 30 occurs a curious entry by the Master of the Great Wardrobe:—"I doe hereby charge myself with 5,000 Livres by me received in the realm of France for gold and silver fringes by me there sold, belon^g to a rich embroidered Bed of his said Majesty, which at one shilling and sevenpence ꝑ lib. English. Being the value of the Exchange at that time, amounts to £395 16s. 8d.

[983]

14 Car. II. c. 13. Statutes at large. The Acts of Charles II. date from the death of his father; so the year of the Restoration, 1660, is counted as the thirteenth of his reign.

[984]

1662. State Papers Dom. Charles II. Vol. lv., No. 25. P. R. O.

[985]

He pays £194 to his Laceman (Tenentori) for 3 Cravats "de poynt de Venez," and 24s. per yard for 57 yards of narrow point "teniæ poynt augustæ," to trim his falling ruffles, "manicis cadentibus," etc.—G. W. A. Car. II. 24 and 25.

Later (1676-7) we find charged for "un par manicarum, le poynt, £14."

[986]

When it was replaced by a black ribbon and a bow.

[987]

London, 1680.

[988]

Authors, however, disagree like the rest of the world. In a tract called The Ancient Trades Decayed Repaired Again, by Sir Roger L'Estrange (1678), we read: "Nay, if the materials used in a trade be not of the growth of England, yet, if the trade be to employ the poor, we should have it bought without money, and brought to us from beyond the seas where it is made as 'Bone lace.'"

[989]

Swift. Baucis and Philemon.

[990]

Intelligencer, 1665, June 5. "Lost, six handkerchers wrapt up in a brown paper, two laced, one point-laced set on tiffany; the two laced ones had been worn, the other four new."

London Gazette. 1672, Dec. 5-9. "Lost, a lawn pocket handkercher with a broad hem, laced round with a fine Point lace about four fingers broad, marked with an R in red silk."

[991]

Evelyn. It was the custom, at a Maiden Assize, to present the judge with a pair of "laced gloves." Lord Campbell in 1856, at the Lincoln Lent Assizes, received from the sheriff a pair of white gloves richly trimmed with Brussels lace and embroidered, the city arms embossed in frosted silver on the back.

[992]

London Gazette. 1677, Jan. 28-31. Again, Oct. 4-8, in the same year. "Stolen or lost out of the Petworth waggon, a deal box directed to the Lady Young of Burton in Sussex; there was in it a fine Point Apron, a suit of thin laced Night clothes," etc.

[993]

London Gazette. 1675, June 14-17. "A right Point lace with a long musling neck laced at the ends with a narrow Point about three fingers broad, and a pair of Point cuffs of the same, worn foul and never washt, was lost on Monday last."

Ibid. 1677, Oct. 22-25. "Found in a ditch, Four laced forehead cloths. One laced Pinner, one laced Quoif, one pair of laced ruffels.... Two point aprons and other laced linen."

Intelligencer. 1664, Oct. 3. "Lost, A needle work point without a border, with a great part of the loups cut out, and a quarter of it new loupt with the needle. £5 reward."

[994]

London Gazette. 1677, Oct. 8-11.

[995]

Tyrannus, or the Mode. 1661.

[996]

It is written Colberteen, Colbertain, Golbertain, Colbertine.

[997]

Colberteen, a lace resembling network, being of the manufacture of M. Colbert, a French statesman.

[998]

A writer in Notes and Queries says: "I recollect this lace worn as a ruffle fifty years ago. The ground was square and coarse, it had a fine edge, with a round mesh, on which the pattern was woven. It was an inferior lace and in every-day wear."

[999]

Cadenus and Vanessa. See also Young, p. 111.

[1000]

Way of the World.

[1001]

Six Weeks in France. 1691.

[1002]

Gt. W. A. Car. II. 35-36 = 1683-4.

[1003]

Gazette, July 20, 1682. Lost, a portmanteau full of women's clothes, among which are enumerated "two pairs of Point d'Espagne ruffles, a laced night rail and waistcoat, a pair of Point de Venise ruffles, a black laced scarf," etc.—Malcolm's Anecdotes of London.

The lace of James II.'s cravats and ruffles are of point de Venise.

Sex prælant cravatts de lacinia Venetiarum, are charged £141, and 9 yards lace, for six more cravats, £45.

£36 10s. for the cravat of Venice lace to wear on the day of his Coronation," etc.—G. W. A. Jac. II. 1685-6.

[1004]

A writer in the Gentleman's Magazine, (October, 1745), mentions: "In the parlour of the monastery of English Benedictines at Paris, I was shown the mask of the king's face, taken off immediately after he was dead, together with the fine laced nightcap he died in." The cap at Dunkirk is trimmed with Flemish lace (old Mechlin). It must have passed from Paris to the convent of English Benedictines at Dunkirk, who left that city in 1793. There is no record how it became deposited in the Museum.—Communicated by M. de Forçade, Conservator of the Museu la Dunkirk.

[1005]

9 & 10 Will. III. = 1697-8.

[1006]

11 & 12 Will. III. = 1698-9.

[1007]

Smith's Wealth of Nations.

[1008]

See Louis XIV.

[1009]

See Louis XIV.

[1010]

Spectator, No. 129. 1711.

"Lost, from behind a Hackney coach, Lombard Street, a grounded lace night rail."—London Gazette. Aug. 8, 1695.

"Lost, two loopt lace Pinners and a pair of double laced ruffles, bundled up together."—Ibid. Jan. 6-10, 1697.

"Taken out of two boxes in Mr. Drouth's waggon ... six cards of piece lace looped and purled, scolopt heads to most of them ... a fine Flanders lace head and ruffles, groundwork set on a wier," etc.—Ibid. April 11-14, 1698.

"Furbelows are not confined to scarfs, but, they must have furbelow'd gowns, and furbelow'd petticoats, and furbelow'd aprons; and, as I have heard, furbelow'd smocks too."—Pleasant Art of Money-catching. 1730.

[1011]

B. M. Add. MSS. No. 5751.

[1012]

"Bought of John Bishop & Jer. Peirie, att y^e Golden Ball, in Ludgate Hill, 26 April, 1693:

"3 yards ½ of Rich silver rufl'd scollop lace falbala, with a Rich broad silver Tire Orris at the head, at 7s. 3d. a yard, £25 0s. 6d.

"8 yards of broad scollopped thread lace, at 25s.

"3 yards Rich Paigning (?) Lace, 48s. 8d., £8 14s."

[1013]

"9 ½ Fine purle to set on the pinner, at 3s."

[1014]

"5 ¾ of fine broad cattgutt border, at 20s."

[1015]

"1 yard 7⁄16 Raised Point to put on the top of a pair of sleeves, at 30s."

[1016]

"8 yards of Broad Needlework Lace, at 30s."

[1017]

"3 yards of lace to Mazzarine y^e pinners, at 25s."

Probably the same as the French "campanner."

[1018]

The Milliner, in Shadwell's Bury Fair. 1720.

[1019]

G. W. A. Will. III. 1688 to 1702. P. R. O.

[1020]

Ibid. vii. & viii.

[1021]

"I hope your Lordship is pleased with your Steinkerk."—Sir John Vanbrugh. The Relapse.

In Colley Cibber's Careless Husband, Lady Easy takes the Steinkirk off her neck and lays it on Sir Charles's head when he is asleep.

In Love's Last Shift, by the same author (1695), the hero speaks of being "Strangled in my own Steinkerk."

In Love for Love, by Congreve, Sir Novelty enumerates the Steinkirk, the large button, with other fashions, as created by him.

"I have heard the Steinkirk arrived but two months ago."—Spectator, No. 129.

The "modish spark" wears "a huge Steinkirk, twisted, to the waist."—1694. Prologue to First Part of Don Quixote.

Frank Osbaldeston, in Rob Roy, is deprived by the Highlanders of his cravat, "a Steinkirke richly laced."

At Ham House was the portrait of a Countess of Dysart, temp. Anne, in three-cornered cocked hat, long coat, flapped waistcoat, and Mechlin Steinkirk.

In the Account Book of Isabella, Duchess of Grafton, daughter of Lord Arlington, Evelyn's "sweet child"—her portrait hangs in Queen Mary's Room, Hampton Court—we have: "1709. To a Stinkirk, £1 12s. 3d."

They appear to have been made of other stuffs than lace, for in the same account, 1708, we have entered: "To a green Steenkirk, £1 1s. 6d."

[1022]

The Volunteers, or the Stock Jobbers.

[1023]

"The Tombs in Westminster Abbey," sung by the Brothers Popplewell. Broadside, 1775.—B. M. Roxburgh Coll.

[1024]

King Charles II.'s lace is the same as that of Queen Mary. The Duchess of Buckingham (the "mad" Duchess, daughter of James II.) has also very fine raised lace.

[1025]

Venice, Bib. St. Mark. Contarini Miscellany. Communicated by Mr. Rawdon Brown.

[1026]

Weekly Journal. March, 1717.

[1027]

The Modern Warrior. 1756.

[1028]

Acc. of Ralph, Earl of Montague, Master of the G. W., touching the Funeral of William III. and Coronation of Queen Anne. P. R. O.

[1029]

Statutes at large.—Anne 5 & 6.

[1030]

This edict greatly injured the lace trade of France. In the Atlas Maritime et Commercial of 1727, it states: "I might mention several other articles of French manufacture which, for want of a market in England where their chief consumption was, are so much decayed and in a manner quite sunk. I mean as to exportation, the English having now set up the same among themselves, such as bone lace."

[1031]

History of Trade. London, 1702.

[1032]

"Pro 14 virgis lautæ Fimbr' Bruxell' laciniæ et 12 virgis dict' laciniæ pro Reginæ persona, £151."—G. W. A. 1710-11.

[1033]

Letters of the Countess of Hartford to the Countess of Pomfret. 1740.

[1034]

Memoirs of Lady R. Russell.

[1035]

[1036]

No. 98. 1711.

[1037]

After fifteen years' discontinuance it shot up again. Swift, on meeting the Duchess of Grafton, dining at Sir Thomas Hanmer's, thus attired, declared she "looked like a mad woman."

[1038]

Statutes at large.

[1039]

In 1712 Mrs. Beale had stolen from her "a green silk knit waistcoat with gold and silver flowers all over it, and about 14 yards of gold and silver thick lace on it"; while another lady was robbed of a scarlet cloth coat so overlaid with the same lace, it might have been of any other colour.—Malcolm's Anecdotes of the Manners and Customs of London in the Eighteenth Century.

[1040]

Post Boy. Nov. 15, 1709. Articles Lost.

[1041]

A Discourse on Trade, by John Cary, merchant of Bristol. 1717.

Again: "What injury was done by the Act 9-10 Will. III. for the more effectual preventing of importation of foreign bone lace, doth sufficiently appear by the preamble to that made 10-12 of the same reign for repealing it three months after the prohibition of our woollen manufactures in Flanders (which was occasioned by it) should be taken off; but I don't understand it be yet done, and it may prove an inevitable loss to the nation."

[1042]

Lover. No. 10. 1714.

[1043]

The ornamental ribbons worn about the dress: "His dress has bows, and fine fallals."—Evelyn. Sometimes the term appears applied to the Fontanges or Commode. We read (1691) of "her three-storied Fladdal."

[1044]

Tunbridge Wells. 1727.

[1045]

In The Recruiting Officer (1781), Lucy the maid says: "Indeed, Madam the last bribe I had from the Captain was only a small piece of Flanders lace for a cap." Melinda answers: "Ay, Flanders lace is a constant present from officers.... They every year bring over a cargo of lace, to cheat the king of his duty and his subjects of their honesty." Again, Silvio, in the bill of costs he sends in to the widow Zelinda, at the termination of his unsuccessful suit, makes a charge for "a piece of Flanders lace" to Mrs. Abigail, her woman.—Addison, in Guardian, No. 17. 1713.

[1046]

"In the next reign, George III. and Queen Charlotte often condescended to become sponsors to the children of the aristocracy. To one child their presence was fatal. In 1778 they 'stood' to the infant daughter of the last Duke and Duchess of Chandos. Cornwallis, Archbishop of Canterbury, officiated. The baby, overwhelmed by whole mountains of lace, lay in a dead faint. Her mother was so tender on the point of etiquette, that she would not let the little incident trouble a ceremony at which a king and queen were about to endow her child with the names of Georgiana Charlotte. As Cornwallis gave back the infant to her nurse, he remarked that it was the quietest baby he had ever held. Poor victim of ceremony! It was not quite dead, but dying; in a few unconscious hours it calmly slept away."—"A Gossip on Royal Christenings." Cornhill Magazine. April, 1864.

[1047]

"Furniture of a Woman's Mind."

[1048]

"Dean Swift to a Young Lady."

[1049]

Cowley.

[1050]

1731. Simile for the Ladies, alluding to the laces worn at the last Birthday and not paid for.

[1051]

Jenyns. "The Modern Fine Lady."

[1052]

Crown. Sir Courtly Nice, or It Cannot Be, a Comedy. 1731.

[1053]

"1748. Ruffles of twelve pounds a yard."—Apology for Mrs. T. C. Philips. 1748.

Lace, however, might be had at a more reasonable rate:—

"'I have a fine lac'd suit of pinners,' says Mrs. Thomas, 'that was my great-grandmother's! that has been worn but twice these forty years, and my mother told me cost almost four pounds when it was new, and reaches down hither.'"—"Miss Lucy in Town." Fielding.

[1054]

Dictionary of Commerce. 1766.

[1055]

He was a martinet about his own dress, for his biographer relates during the last illness of Queen Caroline (1737), though the King was "visibly affected," remembering he had to meet the foreign ministers next day, he gave particular directions to his pages "to see that new ruffles were sewn on his old shirt sleeves, whereby he might wear a decent air in the eyes of the representatives of foreign majesty."

[1056]

"By a list of linen furnished to the Princesses Louisa and Mary, we find their night-dresses were trimmed with lace at 10s. per yard, and while their Royal Highnesses were in bibs, they had six suits of broad lace for aprons at from £50 to £60 each suit."—Corr. of the Countess of Suffolk, Lady of the Bedchamber to Queen Caroline.

Observe also the lace-trimmed aprons, ruffles, tuckers, etc., in the pretty picture of the family of Frederick, Prince of Wales, at Hampton Court Palace.

[1057]

The laws regarding the introduction of lace during this reign continued much the same until 1749, when the royal assent was given to an Act preventing the importation or wear of gold, silver, and thread lace manufactured in foreign parts.

[1058]

In the meeting of Nov. 10, 1752, at the "Crown, behind the Royal Exchange," the Hon. Edward Vernon, grand president, in the chair, it was agreed that the following premiums should be awarded: "For the best pair of men's needlework ruffles, to be produced to the committee in the first week of May next, five guineas; to the second, three guineas; to the third, two guineas. And for the best pair of English bone lace for ladies' lappets, to be produced to the committee in August next, fifteen guineas; to the second, ten guineas; to the third, five guineas."—Gentleman's Magazine.

[1059]

"Cardinal," a loose cloak after the fashion of a cardinal's "trollopée," a loose flowing gown open in the front, worn as a morning dress.—Fairholt. "Slammerkin," a sort of loose dress. This ugly word, in course of time, was used as an adjective, to signify untidy. Fortunately it is now obsolete.

[1060]

"Don't read history to me, for that I know to be false," said Sir R. Walpole to his son Horace, when he offered to read to him in his last illness.

[1061]

Lady M. W. Montagu. "Letter to Lord Harvey on the King's Birthday."

[1062]

[1063]

Goldsmith. Life of Richard Nash, of Bath. London, 1762.

[1064]

1764.

[1065]

Gentleman's Magazine.

[1066]

1767. "An officer of the customs seized nearly £400 worth of Flanders lace, artfully concealed in the hollow of a ship's buoy, on board a French trader, lying off Iron Gate."—Annual Register.

1772. "27,000 ells of French (Blois?) lace were seized in the port of Leigh alone."—Gentleman's Magazine.

[1067]

The turbulent Bishop of Rochester, who was arraigned for his Jacobite intrigues, and died in exile at Paris. 1731.

[1068]

If imported in smaller quantities than twelve yards, the duty imposed was £2 per yard.

[1069]

[1070]

[1071]

He had retired to the country to be out of the way.

[1072]

August, 1776.

[1073]

The wardrobe of George IV. was estimated at the same sum.

[1074]

Cowper.

[1075]

1757.

[1076]

"Monsieur à la Mode." 1753.

[1077]

"Gone to a lady of distinction with a Brussels head and ruffles."—The Fool of Quality. 1766.

[1078]

"Receipt for Modern Dress." 1753.

[1079]

Recollections of Madame d'Arblay.

[1080]

Beaumont and Fletcher. The Knight of Malta.

[1081]

In coffins with glass tops. Some of them date from 1700.

[1082]

In the vault of the Schleswig-Holstein family at Sonderburg.

[1083]

In the church of Revel lies the Duc de Croÿ, a general of Charles XII., arrayed in full costume, with a rich flowing tie of fine guipure; not that he was ever interred—his body had been seized by his creditors for debt, and there it still remains.

The author of Letters from a Lady in Russia (1775), describing the funeral of a daughter of Prince Menzikoff, states she was dressed in a nightgown of silver tissue, on her head a fine laced mob, and a coronet; round her forehead a ribbon embroidered with her name and age, etc.

[1084]

Alluding to this custom of interring ladies of rank in full dress, Madame de Sévigné writes to her daughter:—"Mon Dieu, ma chère enfant, que vos femmes sont sottes, vivantes et mortes! Vous me faites horreur de cette fontange; quelle profanation! cela sent le paganisme, ho! cela me dégoûteroit bien de mourir en Provence; il faudroit que du moins je fusse assuré qu'on ne m'iroit pas chercher une coëffeuse en même temps qu'un plombier. Ah! vraiment! fi! ne parlez plus de cela."—Lettre 627. Paris, 13 Déc, 1688.

[1085]

Laborde. Itin. de l'Espagne. Again, the Duc de Luynes says: "The Curé of St. Sulpice related to me the fashion in which the Duke of Alva, who died in Paris in 1739, was by his own will interred. A shirt of the finest Holland, trimmed with new point lace, the finest to be had for money; a new coat of Vardez cloth, embroidered in silver; a new wig; his cane on the right, his sword on the left of his coffin."—Mémoires.

[1086]

That grave-clothes were lace-trimmed we infer from the following strange announcement in the London Gazette for August 12th to 15th, 1678: "Whereas decent and fashionable lace shifts and Dressings for the dead, made of woollen, have been presented to his Majesty by Amy Potter, widow (the first that put the making of such things in practice), and his Majesty well liking the same, hath upon her humble Petition, been graciously pleased to give her leave to insert this advertisement, that it may be known she now wholly applies herself in making both lace and plain of all sorts, at reasonable prices, and lives in Crane Court in the Old Change, near St. Paul's Church Yard." Again, in November of the same year, we find another advertisement:—"His Majesty, to increase the woollen manufacture and to encourage obedience to the late act for burying in woollen, has granted to Amy Potter the sole privilege of making all sorts of woollen laces for the decent burial of the dead or otherwise, for fourteen years, being the first inventor thereof."

[1087]

Betterton's History of the English Stage. Her kindness to the poet Savage is well known.

[1088]

This seems to have been a spécialité of Gibbons; for we find among the treasures of Strawberry Hill: "A beautiful cravat, in imitation of lace, carved by Gibbons, very masterly."—Hist. and Antiquities of Twickenham. London, 1797.

[1089]

Mrs. Piozzi's Memoirs.

[1090]

A lady, who had very fine old lace, bequeathed her "wardrobe and lace" to some young friends, who, going after her death to take possession of their legacy, were surprised to find nothing but new lace. On inquiring of the old faithful Scotch servant what had become of the old needle points, she said: "Deed it's aw there, 'cept a wheen auld Dudds, black and ragged, I flinged on the fire."

Another collection of old lace met with an equally melancholy fate. The maid, not liking to give it over to the legatees in its coffee-coloured hue, sewed it carefully together, and put it in a strong soap lye on the fire, to simmer all night. When she took it out in the morning, it was reduced to a jelly! Medea's caldron had not been more effectual!

[1091]

Cowper. "The Winter Evening."

[1092]

Bishop Berkeley, in A Word to the Wise, writes of the English labourers in the South of England on a summer's evening "sitting along the streets of the town or village, each at his own door, with a cushion before him, making bone lace, and earning more in an evening's pastime than an Irish family would in a whole day."

[1093]

"Wells, bone lace and knitting stockings."—Anderson.

[1094]

"Launceston, where are two schools for forty-eight children of both sexes. The girls are taught to read, sew, and make bone lace, and they are to have their earnings for encouragement."—Magna Britannia. 1720.

Welsh lace was made at Swansea, Pont-Ardawe, Llanwrtyd, Dufynock, and Brecon, but never of any beauty, some not unlike a coarse Valenciennes. "It was much made and worn," said an aged Wesleyan lady, "by our 'connexion,' and as a child I had all my frocks and pinafores trimmed with it. It was made in the cottages; each lace-maker had her own pattern, and carried it out for sale in the country."

[1095]

At what period, and by whom the lace manufactory of Ripon was founded, we have been unable to ascertain. It was probably a relic of conventual days, which, after having followed the fashion of each time, has now gradually died out. In 1842 broad Trolly laces of French design and fair workmanship were fabricated in the old cathedral city; where, in the poorer localities near the Bond and Blossomgate, young women might be seen working their intricate patterns, with pillows, bobbins, and pins. In 1862 one old woman alone, says our informant, sustains the memory of the craft, her produce a lace of a small lozenge-shaped pattern (Fig. 132), that earliest of all designs, and a narrow edging known in local parlance by the name of "fourpenny spot."

[1096]

Till its annexation to the Crown, the Isle of Man was the great smuggling depôt for French laces. The traders then removed en masse to the Channel Isles, there to carry on their traffic. An idiot called "Peg the Ply" in Castletown (in 1842) was seen working at her pillow on a summer's evening, the last lace-maker of the island. Isle of Man lace was a simple Valenciennes edging.

[1097]

Isle of Wight lace was honoured by the patronage of Queen Victoria. The Princess Royal, reports the Illustrated News of May, 1856, at the drawing-room, on her first presentation, wore a dress of Newport lace, her train trimmed with the same.

The weariness of incarceration, when at Carisbrook, did not bring on Charles I. any distaste for rich apparel. Among the charges of 1648, Sept. and Nov., we find a sum of nigh £800 for suits and cloaks of black brocade tabby, black unshorn velvet, and black satin, all lined with plush and trimmed with rich bone lace.

Some bobbin lace was made in the island, but what is known as "Isle of Wight" resembles "Nottingham" lace. It is made in frames on machine net, the pattern outlined with a run thread and filled in with needle-point stitches. Queen Victoria had several lace tippets made of Isle of Wight lace for the Royal children, and always chose the Mechlin style of rose pattern. Now (1901) there are only two or three old women workers left.

[1098]

Lace-making was never the staple manufacture of the Channel Islands; stockings and garments of knitted wool afforded a livelihood to the natives. We have early mention of these articles in the inventories of James V. of Scotland and of Mary Stuart. Also in those of Henry VIII. and Queen Elizabeth, in which last we find (Gt. Ward. Acc., 28 & 29) the charge of 20s. for a pair of "Caligarum nexat' de factura Garneseie," the upper part and "lez clocks" worked in silk. At the beginning of the nineteenth century, when the island was inundated with French refugees, lace-making was introduced with much success into the Poor-House of St. Heliers. It formed the favourite occupation of the ladies of the island, some of whom (1863) retain the patterns and pillows of their mothers, just as they left them. Of late years many of the old raised Venetian points have been admirably imitated in "Jersey crochet work."

[1099]

The Puritans again, on their part, transferred the fabric to the other side of the Atlantic, where, says a writer of the eighteenth century, "very much fine lace was made in Long Island by the Protestant settlers."

[1100]

See Chap. XXII.

[1101]

The richly-laced corporax cloths and church linen are sent to be washed by the "Lady Ancress," an ecclesiastical washerwoman, who is paid by the churchwardens of St. Margaret's, Westminster, the sum of 8d.; this Lady Ancress, or Anchoress, being some worn-out nun, who, since the dissolution of the religious houses, eked out an existence by the art she had once practised within the convent.

[1102]

In 1753 prizes were awarded for 14 pairs of curious needlework point ruffles.

[1103]

One society confers a prize of ten guineas upon a "gentlewoman for an improvement in manufacture by finishing a piece of lace in a very elegant manner with knitting-needles."

[1104]

The lace of the three counties is practically equal—that is, it is all made in a similar fashion, and the same patterns are met with in each county. The "point" or "net" ground is met with in all, and worked level with the pattern in the same way with bobbins.

[1105]

Who fled from the Alva persecutions, and settled, first at Cranfield in Bedfordshire, then at Buckingham, Stoney Stratford, and Newport-Pagnel, whence the manufacture extended gradually over Oxford, Northampton, and Cambridge. Many Flemish names are still to be found in the villages of Bedfordshire.

[1106]

Queen Katherine died 1536.

[1107]

She retired to Ampthill early in 1531 while her appeal to Rome was pending, and remained there till the summer of 1533.

[1108]

Lace of the heavy Venetian point was already used for ecclesiastical purposes, though scarcely in general use. The earliest known pattern-books date from fifteen years previous to the death of Katherine (1536).

[1109]

Dr. Nicolas Harpsfield. Douay, 1622. (In Latin.)

Again we read that at Kimbolton "she plied her needle, drank her potions, and told her beads."—Duke of Manchester. Kimbolton Papers.

[1110]

A lady from Ampthill writes (1863): "The feast of St. Katherine is no longer kept. In the palmy days of the trade both old and young used to subscribe a sum of money and enjoy a good cup of Bohea and cake, which they called 'Cattern' cake. After tea they danced and made merry, and finished the evening with a supper of boiled stuffed rabbits smothered with onion sauce." The custom of sending about Cattern cakes was also observed at Kettering, in Northamptonshire.

[1111]

Tour through the whole Island of Great Britain, by a Gentleman. 3 vols. 1724-27. Several subsequent editions of Defoe were published, with additions, by Richardson the novelist in 1732, 1742, 1762, 1769, and 1778. The last is "brought down to the present time by a gentleman of eminence in the literary world."

[1112]

Magna Britannia et Hibernia, or a New Survey of Great Britain, collected and composed by an impartial hand, by the Rev. Thos. Owen. Lond. 1720-31.

[1113]

State Papers Dom. Jac. I. Vol. 142. P. R. O.

[1114]

Savary and Peuchet.

[1115]

Worthies. Vol. i., p. 134.

[1116]

Magna Britannia, Daniel and Samuel Lysons. 1806-22.

[1117]

Describing the "lace and edgings" of the tradesman's wife, she has "from Stoney Stratford the first, and Great Marlow the last."—The Complete English Tradesman, Dan. Defoe. 1726.

[1118]

Edition 1762.

[1119]

In Sheahan's History of Bucks, published in 1862, the following places are mentioned as being engaged in the industry:—"Bierton (black and white lace), Cuddington, Haddenham, Great Hampden, Wendover, Gawcott (black), Beachampton, Marsh Gibbon, Preston Bisset, Claydon, Grendon, Dorton, Grandborough, Oving (black and white), Waddesdon, Newport-Pagnell, Bletchley, Hopton, Great Horwood, Bon Buckhill, Fenny Stratford, Hanslope (where 500 women and children are employed—about one-third of the population), Levendon, Great Sandford, Loughton, Melton Keynes, Moulsoe, Newton Blossomville, Olney, Sherrington, and the adjoining villages, Stoke Hammond, Wavendon, Great and Little Kimble, Wooleston, Aston Abbots, Swanbourne, Winslow, Rodnage."

[1120]

The Voyage to Great Britain of Don Manuel Gonzales, late Merchant of the City of Lisbon.—"Some say Defoe wrote this book himself; it is evidently from the pen of an Englishman."—Lowndes' Bibliographers' Manual. Bohn's Edition.

[1121]

Annual Register.

[1122]

See Britannia Depicta, by John Owen, Gent. Lond. 1764, and others.

[1123]

In 1785 there appears in the Gentleman's Magazine* "An essay on the cause and prevention of deformity among the lace-makers of Bucks and North Hants," suggesting improved ventilation and various other remedies long since adopted by the lace-working population in all countries.

* In 1761 appeared a previous paper, "to prevent the effects of stooping and vitiated air," etc.

[1124]

Dict. of Commerce.

[1125]

In Flanders also these glasses were made and used. The "mediæval 'ourinals' are alike the retorts of the alchemist and the water-globes of the poor Flemish flax-thread spinners and lace makers." Old English Glasses. A. Hartshorne.

[1126]

The larger pins had heads put to them with seeds of galium locally called Hariffe or goose-grass; the seeds when fingered became hard and polished.

[1127]

Bobbins are usually made of bone, wood or ivory. English bobbins are of bone or wood, and especially in the counties of Bedford, Bucks, and Huntingdon, the set on a lace pillow formed a homely record of their owner's life. The names of her family, dates and records, births and marriages and mottoes, were carved, burnt, or stained on the bobbin, while events of general interest were often commemorated by the addition of a new bobbin. The spangles, jingles (or gingles) fastened to the end of the bobbin have a certain interest; a waistcoat button and a few coral beads brought from overseas, a family relic in the shape of an old copper seal, or an ancient and battered coin—such things as these were often attached to the ring of brass wire passed through a hole in the bobbin. The inscriptions on the bobbins are sometimes burned and afterwards stained, and sometimes "pegged" or traced in tiny leaden studs, and consist of such mottoes as "Love me Truley" (sic), "Buy the Ring," "Osborne for Ever," "Queen Caroline," "Let no false Lover win my heart," "To me, my dear, you may come near," "Lovely Betty," "Dear Mother," and so forth.—R. E. Head. "Some notes on Lace-Bobbins." The Reliquary, July, 1900.

[1128]

Too much stress cannot be laid on the importance of using fine linen thread. Many well-meant efforts are entirely ruined by the coarse woolly cotton thread used for what ought to be a fine make of lace. That good thread can be got in Great Britain is evident from the fact that the Brussels dealers employ English thread, and sell it to Venice for the exquisite work of Burano. Needless to say, no Englishman has attempted to make a bid for the direct custom of the 8,000 lace-workers there employed.

[1129]

Catalogue of lace (Victoria and Albert Museum).

[1130]

The Conversion and Experience of Mary Hurll', or Hurdle, of Marlborough, a maker of bone lace in this town, by the Rev. —— Hughes, of that town.

[1131]

Waylen's History of Marlborough.

[1132]

"At Bland, on the Stour, between Salisbury and Dorchester, they made the finest lace in England, valued at £30 per yard."—Universal Dict. of Trade and Commerce. 1774.

[1133]

"Much bone lace was made here, and the finest point in England, equal, if not superior, to that of Flanders, and valued at £30 per yard till the beginning of this century."—Hutchins' Hist. of the County of Dorset. 2nd Edition, 1796.

[1134]

What this celebrated point was we cannot ascertain. Two samplars sent to us as Blandford point were of geometric pattern resembling the samplar, Fig. 5.

[1135]

In 1752.

[1136]

Roberts' Hist. of Lyme Regis.

[1137]

Burd, Genest, Raymunds, Brock, Couch, Gerard, Murck, Stocker, Maynard, Trump, Groot, etc.

[1138]

"We may rather infer that laces of silk and coarse thread were already fabricated in Devonshire, as elsewhere; and that the Flemings, on their arrival, having introduced the fine thread, then spun almost exclusively in their own country, from that period the trade of bone-lace-making flourished in the southern as well as in the midland counties of England" (Mrs. Palliser, 1869).

[1139]

Ker's Synopsis, written about the year 1561. Two copies of this MS. exist, one in the library of Lord Haldon at Haldon House (Co. Devon), the other in the British Museum. This MS. was never printed, but served as an authority for Westcote and others.

[1140]

"She was a daughter of John Flay, Vicar of Buckrell, near Honiton, who by will in 1614 bequeaths certain lands to Jerom Minify (sic), son of Jerom Minify, of Burwash, Sussex, who married his only daughter."—Prince's Worthies of Devon. 1701.

Up to a recent date the Honiton lace-makers were mostly of Flemish origin. Mrs. Stocker, ob. 1769; Mr. J. Stocker, + 1788, and four daughters; Mrs. Mary Stocker, + 179-; Mr. Gerard, + 1799, and daughter; Mrs. Lydia Maynard (of Anti-Gallican celebrity), + 1786; Mrs. Ann Brock, + 1815; Mrs. Elizabeth Humphrey, + 1790, whose family had been in the lace manufacture 150 years and more. The above list has been furnished to the author by Mrs. Frank Aberdein, whose grandfather was for many years in the trade. Mrs. Treadwin, of Exeter, found an old lace-worker using a lace "Turn" for winding sticks, having the date 1678 rudely carved on the foot, showing how the trade was continued in the same family from generation to generation.

[1141]

View of Devon. T. Westcote.

[1142]

Her bequest is called "Minifie's Gift."

[1143]

Here follows the numbers of the people in a few places who get their living by making lace. Among those quoted in Devonshire as interesting to compare with the present day are:—

"Coumbraligh 65, Sidmont 302, Axmouth 73, Sidbury 321, Buckerall 90, Farway 70, Utpotery 118, Branscombe Beare and Seaton 326, Honyton 1341, Axminster 60, Otery St. Mary, 814."

[1144]

Church Book of the Baptist Chapel of Lyme Regis.

[1145]

Colyton and Ottery St. Mary were among the first. Wherever the say or serge decayed, the lace trade planted itself.

In the church of Colyton, under a fine canopied tomb, repose back to back in most unsociable fashion the recumbent figures of Sir John and Lady Pole. "Dame Elizabeth, daughter of Roger How, merchant of London, ob. 1623," wears a splendid cape of three rows of bone lace descending to the waist. Her cap is trimmed with the same material. As this lace may be of Devonshire fabric, we give a wood-cut of the pattern (Fig. 150).

Sundry Flemish names may still be seen above the shop-windows of Colyton similar to those of Honiton—Stocker, Murch, Spiller, Rochett, Boatch, Kettel, Woram, and others.

[1146]

Don Manuel Gonzales mentions "bone lace" among the commodities of Devon.

[1147]

The lace manufacture now extends along the coast from the small watering-place of Seaton, by Beer, Branscombe, Salcombe, Sidmouth, and Ollerton, to Exmouth, including the Vale of Honiton and the towns above mentioned.

[1148]

1753.

[1149]

Complete System of Geography. Emanuel Bowen, 1747.

This extract is repeated verbatim in England's Gazetteer, by Philip Luckombe. London, 1790.

[1150]

Died 1398.

[1151]

The best réseau was made by hand with the needle, and was much more expensive.

[1152]

Mrs. Aberdein, of Honiton, informed Mrs. Palliser that her father often paid ninety-five guineas per lb. for the thread from Antwerp (1869).

[1153]

The manner of payment was somewhat Phœnician, reminding one of Queen Dido and her bargain. The lace ground was spread out on the counter, and the worker herself desired to cover it with shillings; and as many coins as found place on her work she carried away as the fruit of her labour. The author once calculated the cost, after this fashion, of a small lace veil on real ground, said to be one of the first ever fabricated. It was 12 inches wide and 30 inches long, and, making allowance for the shrinking caused by washing, the value amounted to £20, which proved to be exactly the sum originally paid for the veil. The ground of this veil, though perfect in its workmanship, is of a much wider mesh than was made in the last days of the fabric. It was the property of Mrs. Chick.

[1154]

"The last specimen of 'real' ground made in Devon was the marriage veil of Mrs. Marwood Tucker. It was with the greatest difficulty workers could be procured to make it. The price paid for the ground alone was 30 guineas" (1869).

[1155]

With the desire of combining the two interests, her Majesty ordered it to be made on the Brussels (machine-made) ground.

[1156]

Amaranth, Daphne, Eglantine, Lilac, Auricula, Ivy, Dahlia, Eglantine.

[1157]

The workers of Beer, Axmouth, and Branscombe, have always been considered the best in the trade.

[1158]

Exposition Universelle de 1867. Rapport du Jury International, "Dentelles," par Felix Aubry.

[1159]

For the encouragement of Agriculture, Arts, Manufactures, and Commerce. The prizes were offered for the best Sprigs, Nosegays, Borders for shawls, veils, or collars, Lappets, collars and cuffs, Pocket-handkerchiefs, etc., "of good workmanship and design, worked either in Flowers, Fruits, Leaves, or Insects, strictly designed from nature." Three prizes were awarded for each description of article. The Society also offered prizes for small application sprigged veils, and for the best specimens of braidwork, in imitation of Spanish point.

[1160]

Honiton Lace, by Mrs. Treadwin. London, 1874. Honiton Lace-making, by Devonia, London, 1874.

[1161]

Lappets and scarfs were made of trolly lace from an early date. Mrs. Delarey, in one of her letters, dated 1756, speaks of a "trolly head." Trolly lace, before its downfall, has been sold at the extravagant price of five guineas a yard.

[1162]

"Fifty years since Devonshire workers still make a 'Greek' lace, as they termed it, similar to the 'dentelles torchons' so common through the Continent. The author has seen specimens of this fabric in a lace-maker's old pattern-book, once the property of her mother" (Mrs. Palliser, 1869).

[1163]

Though no longer employed at lace-making, the boys in the schools at Exmouth are instructed in crochet work (1869).

[1164]

Of Otterton.

[1165]

In Woodbury will be found a small colony of lace-makers who are employed in making imitation Maltese or Greek lace, a fabric introduced into Devon by order of her late Majesty the Queen Dowager on her return from Malta. The workers copy these coarse geometric laces with great facility and precision. Among the various cheap articles to which the Devonshire workers have of late directed their labours is the tape or braid lace, and the shops of the country are now inundated with their productions in the form of collars and cuffs (1869.)

[1166]

The Honiton pillows are rather smaller than those for Buckinghamshire lace, and do not have the multiplicity of starched coverings—only three "pill cloths," one over the top, and another on each side of the lace in progress; two pieces of horn called "sliders" go between to take the weight of the bobbins from dragging the stitches in progress; a small square pin-cushion is on one side, and stuck into the pillow is the "needle-pin"—a large sewing needle in a wooden handle, and for picking up loops through which the bobbins are placed. The pillow has to be frequently turned round in the course of the work, so that no stand is used, and it is rested against a table or doorway; and formerly, in the golden days, in fine weather there would be rows of workers sitting outside their cottages resting their "pills" against the back of the chair in front.

The bobbins used in Honiton lace-making are delicately-fashioned slender things of smooth, close-grained wood, their length averaging about three and a half inches. They have no "gingles," and none of the carving and relief inlayings of the Buckinghamshire and Bedfordshire bobbins; but some of them are curiously stained with a brown pigment in an irregular pattern resembling the mottlings of clouded bamboo or those of tortoise-shell.

[1167]

"The author has visited many lace-schools in Devon, and though it might be desired that some philanthropist would introduce the infant school system of allowing the pupils to march and stretch their limbs at the expiration of every hour, the children, notwithstanding, looked ruddy as the apples in their native orchards; and though the lace-worker may be less robust in appearance than the farm-servant or the Cheshire milkmaid, her life is more healthy far than the female operative in our northern manufactories" (1875).

[1168]

"A good lace-maker easily earns her shilling a day, but in most parts of Devonshire the work is paid by the truck system, many of the more respectable shops giving one-half in money, the remaining sixpence to be taken out in tea or clothing, sold often considerably above their value. Other manufacturers—to their shame, be it told—pay their workers altogether in grocery, and should the lace-maker, from illness or any other cause, require an advance in cash, she is compelled to give work to the value of fourteen-pence for every shilling she receives. Some few houses pay their workers in money" (1875).

[1169]

Medals were won at the Chicago World's Fair for Devonshire lace by Mrs. Fowler and Miss Radford, of Sidmouth. The latter has also received the freedom of the City of London for a beautiful lace fan, her sprigs being the finest and most exquisite models of flowers and birds it is possible to produce in lace. A third medal was won by the Italian laces at Beer.

[1170]

Those held at Sidbury and Sidford are very successful, and the children, ranging in age from, nine to fifteen, come regularly for their "lace." It is interesting to watch the improvement in the work of the "flys," the first lesson, and as a rule each child makes forty to fifty before going on to anything further.

[1171]

At Beer, where fishing is the staple industry, in bad fish seasons the women can earn more than the men; and at Honiton in the hard winter of 1895 the lace-makers kept themselves and their families, and were spared applying for relief—all honour to their skill and self-helpfulness.

[1172]

"1539. Ane uther gowne of purpour satyne with ane braid pasment of gold and silver," etc.

"Twa Spanye cloikis of black freis with ane braid pasment of gold and silver."

"1542. Three peces of braid pasmentes of gold and silver."—Inventories of the Royal Wardrobe and Jewel House. 1488-1606. Edinb. 1815.

[1173]

1542. Same Inv.

[1174]

In the Inv. of the Earl of Huntley, 1511-12, there is mention of dresses "passamenté d'or."

[1175]

Chap. X., note.

1537. James V. and Lord Somerville at Holyrood:—"Where are all your men and attendants, my Lord?"

"Please, your Majesty, they are here"—pointing to the lace which was on his son and two pages' dress. The King laughed heartily and surveyed the finery, and bade him "Away with it all, and let him have his stout band of spears again."

[1176]

Croft's Excerpta Antiqua.

The Countess of Mar, daughter of the first Duke of Lennox and granddaughter by her mother's side to Marie Touchet. She was daughter-in-law to the preceptress of James VI., and in 1593 had the honour, at the baptism of Prince Henry, of lifting the child from his bed and delivering him to the Duke of Lennox. A portrait of this lady, in the high Elizabethan ruff, and with a "forepart" and tucker of exquisite raised Venice point, hung (circ. 1870) in the drawing-room of the late Miss Katherine Sinclair.

[1177]

"Une robe de velours vert couverté de Broderies, gimpeures, et cordons d'or et d'argent, et bordée d'un passement de même.

"Une robe veluat cramoisi bandée de broderie de guimpeure d'argent.

"Une robe de satin blanc chamarrée de broderie faite de guimpeure d'or.

"Id. de satin jaune toute couverte de broderye gumpeure, etc.

"Robe de weloux noyr semée de geynpeurs d'or."—Inv. of Lillebourg. 1561.

[1178]

"Chamarrée de bisette."—Inv. of Lillebourg. 1561.

"Ane rabbat of wolvin thread with passmentet with silver."

[1179]

Chap. III.

[1180]

See Lacis, Chap. II.

[1181]

See Needlework, Chap. I.

[1182]

Her lace ruffs Mary appears to have had from France, as we may infer from a letter written by Walsingham, at Paris, to Burleigh, when the Queen was captive at Sheffield Castle, 1578: "I have of late granted a passport to one that conveyeth a box of linen to the Queen of Scots, who leaveth not this town for three or four days. I think your Lordship shall see somewhat written on some of the linen contained in the same, that shall be worth the reading. Her Majesty, under colour of seeing the fashion of the ruffes, may cause the several parcels of the linen to be held to the fire, whereby the writing may appear; for I judge there will be some such matter discovered, which was the cause why I did the more willingly grant the passport."

[1183]

In 1575.

[1184]

There was some demur about receiving the nightcaps, for Elizabeth declared "that great commotions had taken place in the Privy Council because she had accepted the gifts of the Queen of Scots. They therefore remained for some time in the hands of La Mothe, the ambassador, but were finally accepted."—Miss Strickland.

[1185]

"Inventaire of our Soveraine Lord and his dearest moder. 1578."—Record Office, Edinburgh.

[1186]

Records of Life, by Miss H. Pigott. 1839.

[1187]

Similar to the New Year's Gift of the Baroness Aletti to Queen Elizabeth:—

"A veil of lawn cutwork flourished with silver and divers colours."—Nichols' Royal Progresses.

[1188]

"Twa quaiffs ane of layn and uther of woving thread.

Ane quaiff of layn with twa cornettes sewitt with cuttit out werk of gold and silver.

Twa pair of cornettes of layn sewitt with cuttit out werk of gold.

Ane wovin collar of thread passementit with incarnit and blew silk and silver."—Inv. of 1578.

[1189]

"Ane rabbat of cuttit out werk and gold and cramoisie silk with the handis (cuffs) thereof.

Ane rabbat of cuttit out werk of gold and black silk.

Ane rabbat of cuttit out werk with purpure silk with the handis of the same."—Ibid.

[1190]

"Twa towell claiths of holane claith sewitt with cuttit out werk and gold.

Four napkinnes of holane claith and cammaraye sewitt with cuttit out werk of gold and silver and divers cullours of silk."—Ibid.

[1191]

Published by Prince Labanoff. "Recueil de Lettres de Marie Stuart." T. vii., p. 247.

[1192]

Marriage Expenses of James VI., 1589. Published by the Bannatyne Club.

[1193]

Accounts of the Great Chamberlain of Scotland. 1590.—Bannatyne Club.

[1194]

In 1581, 1597, and 1621.

[1195]

The same privilege was extended to their wives, their eldest sons with their wives, and their eldest daughters, but not to the younger children.

[1196]

1633. In the Account of Expenses for the young Lord of Lorne, we find:—

"2 ells Cambridg' at 8s. the ell for ruffles, 16s.

"2 ells of Perling at 30s., the uther at 33s. 4d., £3 3s. 4d."—Innes' Sketches of Early Scotch History.

[1197]

January, 1686.

[1198]

"In 1701, when Mistress Margaret, daughter of the Baron of Kilravock, married, 'flounced muslin and lace for combing cloths,' appear in her outfit."—Innes' Sketches.

[1199]

In a pamphlet published 1702, entitled, An Accompt carried between England and Scotland, alluding to the encouragement of the yarn trade, the author says: "This great improvement can be attested by the industry of many young gentlewomen that have little or no portion, by spinning one pound of fine lint, and then breaking it into fine flax and whitening it. One gentlewoman told me herself that, by making an ounce or two of it into fine bone lace, it was worth, or she got, twenty pounds Scots for that part of it; and might, after same manner, five or eight pounds sterling out of a pound of lint, that cost her not one shilling sterling. Now if a law were made not to import any muslin (her Grace the Duchess of Hamilton still wears our finest Scots muslin as a pattern to others—she who may wear the finest apparel) and Holland lace, it would induce and stir up many of all ranks to wear more fine 'Scots lace,' which would encourage and give bread to many young gentlewomen and help their fortunes." Then, among the products of Scotland by which "we may balance any nation," the same writer mentions "our white thread, and making laces."

"On Tuesday, the 16th inst., will begin the roup of several sorts of merchants' goods, in the first story of the Turnpyke, above the head of Bells Wynd, from 9 to 12 and 2 till 5. 'White thread lace.'"—Edinburgh Courant. 1706.

[1200]

See Chap. XXV., Queen Anne.

[1201]

Edinburgh Advertiser. 1764.

[1202]

1745. The following description of Lady Lovat, wife of the rebel Simon, is a charming picture of a Scotch gentlewoman of the last century:—

"When at home her dress was a red silk gown with ruffled cuffs and sleeves puckered like a man's shirt, a fly cap of lace encircling her head, with a mob cap laid across it, falling down on the cheeks; her hair dressed and powdered; a lace handkerchief round the neck and bosom (termed by the Scotch a Befong)—a white apron edged with lace.... Any one who saw her sitting on her chair, so neat, fresh, and clean, would have taken her for a queen in wax-work placed in a glass case."—Heart of Midlothian.

Sir Walter Scott, whose descriptions are invariably drawn from memory, in his Chronicles of the Canongate, describes the dressing-room of Mrs. Bethune Balliol as exhibiting a superb mirror framed in silver filigree-work, a beautiful toilet, the cover of which was of Flanders lace.

[1203]

Heart of Midlothian.

[1204]

Statistical Account of Scotland. Sir John Sinclair. Edinburgh, 1792. Vol. ii., 198.

[1205]

Edinburgh Amusement.

[1206]

1755. Premium £2 offered. "For the whitest, best, and finest lace, commonly called Hamilton lace, and of the best pattern, not under two yards in length and not under three inches in breadth."

[1207]

The Edinburgh Society did not confine their rewards to Hamilton lace; imitation of Dresden, catgut lace, gold, silver, and even livery lace, each met with its due reward.

1758. For imitation of lace done on catgut, for ruffles, a gold medal to Miss Anne Cant, Edinburgh.

For a piece of livery lace done to perfection to J. Bowie, 2 guineas.

To W. Bowie for a piece of gold and silver lace, 2 guineas.

[1208]

1769. Pennant, in his Tour, mentions among the manufactures of Scotland thread laces at Leith, Hamilton and Dalkeith.

[1209]

In 1762, Dec. 9, a schoolmistress in Dundee, among thirty-one accomplishments in which she professes to instruct her pupils, such as "waxwork, boning fowls without cutting the back," etc., enumerates, No. 21, "True point or tape lace," as well as "washing Flanders lace and point."

Again, in 1764, Mr. and Mrs. Mitchell advertise in their boarding-school "lacework and the washing of blonde laces; the pupils' own laces washed and got up at home. Terms £24."

At Miss Glen's boarding-school in the Trunk Close, 1768, young ladies are taught "white and coloured seam and washing of lace"—gratis.

These lady-teachers were not appointed in Scotland without giving due proofs of their capacity. In 1758 the magistrates and council of Aberdeen, being unanimous as to the "strict morality, Dresden work, modesty, and catgut lace-making," etc., of Miss Betsey Forbes, elected her to the office of schoolmistress of the city.

In The Cottagers of Glenburnie a lady, Mrs. Mason, tells a long story of the young laird having torn a suit of lace she was busied in getting up.

[1210]

Edinburgh Advertiser.

[1211]

1774. "Several punds of badly-spun yarn was burnt by the stamp master in Montrose." This announcement constantly occurs.

[1212]

About this period a Mr. Brotherton, of Leith, seems to have made a discovery which was but a prelude to the bobbin net. It is thus described in the Weekly Magazine of 1772:—"A new invention has lately been discovered by Mr. Brotherton, in Leith, for working black silk lace or white thread lace on a loom, to imitate any pattern whatever, and the lace done in this way looks fully as well as if sewed, and comes much cheaper. It is done any breadth, from three inches to three-quarters of a yard wide."

[1213]

In 1775 Dallas, Barclay & Co., advertise a selling off of fine point, Brussels thread, blond, and black laces of all kinds, silver double edged lace, etc.—Edinburgh Advertiser.

1775. "Black blonde and thread laces, catguts of all sorts, just arrived from the India House in London in the Canongate."—Caledonian Mercury.

"Fashions for January; dresses trimmed with Brussels point or Mignonette."—Ibid. Same year.

[1214]

"Madame Puteau carries on a lace manufacture after the manner of Mechlin and Brussels. She had lately twenty-two apprentices from the Glasgow Hospital.... Mrs. Puteau has as much merit in this branch as has her husband in the making of fine thread. This he manufactures of such a fineness as to be valued at £10 the pound weight."—Essays on the Trade, Commerce, Manufactures, Fisheries, etc., of Scotland. David Loch. 1778.

[1215]

"If you look at the wardrobes of your grandmother, you will perceive what revolutions have happened in taste of mankind for laces and other fineries of that sort. How many suits of this kind do you meet with that cost amazing sums, which are now, and have long since been, entirely useless. In our own day did we not see that in one year Brussels laces are most in fashion and purchased at any price, while the next perhaps they are entirely laid aside, and French or other thread laces, or fine sewings, the names of which I know not, highly prized."—Observations on the National Industry of Scotland. Anderson. 1778.

[1216]

Lace-making at Hamilton is now a thing of the past, replaced in the nineteenth century by a tambour network for veils, scarfs and flounces.

[1217]

Essay on the Dress of the Early Irish. J. C. Walker. 1788.

[1218]

The Image of Irelande, by Jhon Derricke. 1578.

[1219]

In 1562. See Camden. Hist. Eliz.

[1220]

Henry VIII. 1537. Against Irish fashions. Not "to weare any shirt, smock, kerchor, bendel, neckerchour, mocket, or linen cappe colored or dyed with saffron," and not to use more than seven yards of linen in their shirts or smocks.

[1221]

4 Edw. IV., Harl MSS. No. 1419. b.-g. 494.

[1222]

That lace ruffs soon appeared in Ireland may be proved by the effigy on a tomb still extant in the Abbey of Clonard, in which the Dillon arms are conspicuous, and also by paintings of the St. Lawrence family, circ. 1511, preserved at Howth Castle.

In the portrait at Muckruss of the Countess of Desmond she is represented with a lace collar. It was taken, as stated at the back of the portrait, "as she appeared at the court of King James, 1614, and in y^e 140th year of her age." Thither she went to endeavour to reverse the attainder of her house.

[1223]

At the end of the last century there lived at Creaden, near Waterford, a lady of the name of Power, lineal descendant of the kings of Munster, and called the Queen of Creaden. She affected the dress of the ancient Irish. The border of her coif was of the finest Irish-made Brussels lace; her jacket of the finest brown cloth trimmed with gold lace; her petticoat of the finest scarlet cloth bordered with a row of broad gold lace; all her dress was of Irish manufacture.

[1224]

Gentleman's and Citizen's Almanack, by G. Watson. Dublin, 1757.

[1225]

"The freedom of the city of Dublin was also conferred upon her, presented in due form in a silver box as a mark of esteem for her great charities and constant care of the Foundling children in the city workhouse."—Dublin Freeman's Journal, July 30th, 1765.

[1226]

Gentleman's and Citizen's Almanack, by Samuel Watson. 1773.

[1227]

"The Lady Arabella Denny died 1792, aged 85; she was second daughter of Thomas Fitzmaurice, Earl of Kerry. The Irish Academy, in acknowledgment of her patriotic exertions, offered a prize of 100 guineas for the best monody on her death. It was gained by John Macaulay, Esq."—Dublin Freeman's Journal, July 20th, 1766.

[1228]

Wakefield writes in 1812: "Lace is not manufactured to a large extent in Ireland. I saw some poor children who were taught weaving by the daughters of a clergyman, and Mr. Tighe mentions a school in Kilkenny where twelve girls were instructed in the art. At Abbey-leix there is a lace manufacture, but the quantity made is not of any importance."—Account of Ireland. Statistical and Political. Edw. Wakefield. 1812.

[1229]

Pall Mall Gazette, May 8th, 1897.

[1230]

Walker was a man of literary and artistic tastes, and educated for the Church, but, marrying the daughter of a lace-manufacturer, he set up in that business in Essex, working for the London wholesale trade. He removed next to Limerick, where he continued till 1841, when he sold the business, but his successor becoming bankrupt, he never received the purchase money, and died 1842, his ingenuity and industry ill-rewarded. In some work (we have lost the reference) it is stated that "Coggeshall, in Essex, made a tambour lace, a sort of medium between lace and embroidery." Could this be Walker's manufacture?

[1231]

In 1855 the number of workers employed numbered 1,500. In 1869 there were less than 500. In 1869 Mrs. Palliser writes of the tambour lace industry: "The existing depression of the trade has been partly caused by the emigration of girls to America and the colonies, while glove-making and army clothing employ the rest; and indeed the manufacture aiming only at cheapness had produced a lace of inferior quality, without either novelty or beauty of design, from which cause Limerick lace has fallen into disrepute."

[1232]

No account of Limerick lace would be complete which does not make some reference to the work of the Sisters of Mercy at Kinsale, Co. Cork, where so much is now being done to revive those industries which were originally started with the object of coping with the famine of 1846. This revival is largely due to Mr. A. S. Cole, who originally suggested the establishment of an art class in connection with South Kensington, with Mr. Brennar, of the Cork School of Art, as its master. The studio is in connection with the workroom, which secures constant touch between the designing, alteration, and adaptation of patterns and their execution. (Pall Mall Gazette, May 8th, 1897.)

[1233]

Various schools have been established throughout Ireland. Lady de Vere taught the mistress of a school on her own demesne at Curragh, Co. Limerick, the art of making application flowers, giving her own Brussels lace as patterns. The work was so good as soon to command a high price, and the late Queen of the Belgians actually purchased a dress of it at Harding's, and took it back with her to Brussels, The fabric is known by the name of "Irish" or "Curragh point."

The school set up at Belfast by the late Jane Clarke exhibited in 1851 beautiful imitations of the old Spanish and Italian points; amongst others a specimen of the fine raised Venetian point, which can scarcely be distinguished from the original. It is now in the Vict. and Albert Museum (1869).

[1234]

From the tradition that a Jesuit procured the first Venetian lace pattern used in Ireland.

[1235]

It was in the famine period that the Rector of Headford, Co. Galway, brought about a revival of the pillow lace, which was known to a few women in the county—taught, according to the tradition, by a soldier from foreign parts at some unknown date. This work is now reviving, thanks to the energetic care of Mrs. Dawson.

[1236]

Mr. A. S. Cole gives the following classification of Irish laces:—

There are seven sorts of Irish lace.

1. Flat needle-point lace.

2. Raised needle-point lace.

3. Embroidery on net, either darning or chain-stitch.

4. Cut cambric or linen work in the style of guipure or appliqué lace.

5. Drawn thread-work in the style of Reticella, and Italian cut points.

6. Pillow lace in imitation of Devon lace.

7. Crochet.

[1237]

History of Machine-Wrought Hosiery and Lace Manufacture. W. Felkin. London, 1867.

[1238]

See Germany.

[1239]

An open stitch on stockings, called the "Derby rib," had been invented by Jedediah Strutt, in 1758.

[1240]

By Rev. William Lee, of Calverton (Nottinghamshire). The romantic story is well known; but whether actuated, as usually stated, by pique at the absorbing attention paid to her knitting by a lady, when he was urging his suit—or, as others more amiably affirm, by a desire to lighten the labour of his wife, who was obliged to contribute to their joint support by knitting stockings—certain it is that it was he who first conceived the idea of the stocking-frame, and completed it about 1589. His invention met with no support from Queen Elizabeth, so Lee went to France, where he was well received by Henry IV.; but the same year Henry was assassinated, and the Regent withdrawing her protection, Lee died of grief and disappointment. The arms of the Framework Knitters' Company (Fig. 162) are a stocking-frame, having for supporters William Lee in full canonicals and a female holding in her hand thread and a knitting-needle. After Lee's death his brother returned to England, where Lee's invention was then appreciated. Stocking-making became the fashion, everyone tried, it, and people had their portraits taken with gold and silver needles suspended round their necks.

[1241]

Vandyke had also appended the chain to his stocking-frame, and the zigzags formed by the ribs of his stockings were called "Vandyke," hence the term now generally applied to all indented edges.

[1242]

Mechlin net was disused in 1819 from its too great elasticity.

[1243]

The "bobbins" on which the thread is wound for the weft consist of two circular copper plates riveted together, and fixed upon a small carriage or frame which moves backwards and forwards like a weaver's shuttle.

[1244]

The Old Loughboro' employed sixty movements to form one mesh—a result now obtained by twelve. It produced 1,000 meshes a minute—then thought a wonderful achievement, as by the pillow only five or six can be obtained. A good circular machine now produces 30,000 in the same time.

The quality of bobbin net depends upon the smallness of the meshes, their equality in size, and the regularity of the hexagons.

[1245]

Bobbin net is measured by the "rack," which consists of 240 meshes. This mode of counting was adopted to avoid the frequent disagreements about measure which arose between the master and the workmen in consequence of the elasticity of the net. The exchange of linen to cotton thread was the source of great regret to the Roman Catholic clergy, who by ecclesiastical law can only wear albs of flax.

[1246]

This association was formed by Ludlam, or General Ludd, as he was called, a stocking-frame worker at Nottingham in 1811, when prices had fallen. The Luddites, their faces covered with a black veil, armed with swords and pistols, paraded the streets at night, entered the workshops, and broke the machines with hammers. A thousand machines were thus destroyed. Soon the net-workers joined them and made a similar destruction of the bobbin net machines. Although many were punished, it was only with the return of work that the society disappeared in 1817.

[1247]

Heathcoat represented Tiverton from 1834 to 1859, colleague of Lord Palmerston.

Steam power was first introduced by Mr. J. Lindley in 1815-16, but did not come into active operation till 1820; it became general 1822-23.

[1248]

McCulloch.

[1249]

The most extraordinary changes took place in the price of the finished articles. Lace which was sold by Heathcoat for 5 guineas a yard soon after the taking out of his patent can now be equalled at eighteenpence a yard; quillings, as made by a newly-constructed machine in 1810, and sold at 4s. 6d., can now be equalled and excelled at 1½d. a yard; while a certain width of net which brought £17 per piece 20 years ago is now sold for 7s. (1843). Progressive value of a square yard of plain cotton bobbin net:

£ s. s. d.

1809 5 0 1830 2 0

1813 2 0 1833 1 4

1815 1 10 1836 0 10

1818 1 0 1842 0 6

1821 0 12 1850 0 4

1824 0 8 1856 0 3

1827 0 4 1862 0 3

Histoire du Tulle et des Dentelles mécaniques en Angleterre et en France, par S. Ferguson fils. Paris, 1862.

"Bobbin net and lace are cleaned from the loose fibres of the cotton by the ingenious process of gassing, as it is called, invented by the late Mr. Samuel Hall, of Nottingham. A flame of gas is drawn through the lace by means of a vacuum above. The sheet of lace passes to the flame opaque and obscured by loose fibre, and issues from it bright and clear, not to be distinguished from lace made of the purest linen thread, and perfectly uninjured by the flame."—Journal of the Society of Arts. Jan., 1864.

[1250]

In 1826 Mr. Huskisson's reduction of the duty on French tulle caused so much distress in Leicester and Nottingham, that ladies were desired to wear only English tulle at court; and in 1831 Queen Adelaide appeared at one of her balls in a dress of English silk net.

[1251]

John Hindres, in 1656, first established a stocking-frame in France.

[1252]

The net produced was called "Tulle simple et double de Lyon et de Vienne." The net was single loops, hence the name of "single press," given to these primitive frames.

[1253]

In 1801 George Armitage took a "point net" machine to Antwerp, and made several after the same model, thus introducing the manufacture into Belgium. He next went to Paris, but the wholesale contraband trade of Hayne left him no hope of success. He afterwards went to Prussia to set up net and stocking machines. At the age of eighty-two he started for Australia, where he died, in 1857, aged eighty-nine.

[1254]

The great difficulty encountered by the French manufacturers consisted in the cotton. France did not furnish cotton higher than No. 70; the English ranges from 160 to 200. The prohibition of English cotton obliged them to obtain it by smuggling until 1834, when it was admitted on paying a duty. Now they make their own, and are able to rival Nottingham in the prices of their productions. A great number of Nottingham lace-makers have emigrated to Calais.

[1255]

The Caen blond first suggested the idea.

[1256]

The first net frame was set up at Brussels in 1801. Others followed at Termonde, 1817; Ghent, 1828; Sainte Fosse, etc.

[1257]

D. Wyatt.

[1258]

Mr. Ferguson, the inventor of the bullet-hole, square net (tulle carré), and wire-ground (point de champ ou de Paris), had transferred his manufacture, in 1838, from Nottingham to Cambrai, where, in partnership with M. Jourdan, he made the "dentelle de Cambrai," and in 1852 the "lama" lace, which differs from the Cambrai inasmuch as the weft (trame) is made of mohair instead of silk. Mr. Ferguson next established himself at Amiens, where he brought out the Yak, another mixed lace.

[1259]

The first patents were:—

1836. Hind and Draper took out one in France, and 1837 in England.

1838. Ferguson takes a patent at Cambrai under the name of his partner Jourdan.

1839. Crofton.

1841. Houston and Deverill, for the application of the Jacquard to the Leaver machine. The great manufactures of Nottingham and Calais are made on the Leaver Jacquard frame.

The first patterned net was produced, 1780, by E. Frost, the embroidery made by hand.

[1260]

Cantor Lectures on the Art of Lace-Making. A. S. Cole. 1880.

[1261]

"The machines now in use are the Circular, Leaver, Transverse Warp and Pusher. Out of 3,552 machines computed to be in England in 1862 2,448 were at Nottingham."—International Exhibition, Juror's Report.

[1262]

Daphne lagetta.

[1263]

He makes a paste of the plant which is the usual food of the caterpillar, and spreads it thinly over a stone or other flat substance; then with a camel's-hair pencil dipped in olive oil he draws upon the coating of paste the pattern he wishes the insects to leave open. The stone being placed in an inclined position, the caterpillars* are laid at the bottom, and the animals eat and spin their way up to the top, carefully avoiding every part touched by the oil, but devouring the rest of the paste.—Encyclopædia Britannica.

* Phalæna pandilla.

[1264]

Two interesting papers were published in the Gazette des Beaux Arts for 1863 and 1864, entitled, "Essai bibliographique sur les anciens dessins de dentelles, modèles de tapisseries, patrons de broderies et publiés le xvi. et le xvii. siècle," &c, by the Marquis Girolamo d'Addo, of Milan.

[1265]

Cambridge University Library.

[1266]

Paris, Bibliothèque Nat. Gravures, L. h. 13 d.*

[1267]

Bib. Nat. V. 1897.*—Genoa. Cav. Merli, 1528 (?).

[1268]

Paris, Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,952.*

[1269]

Oxford, Bib. Bodleian.

[1270]

Milan, Cavaliere Bertini.

[1271]

Venice, Library of St. Mark.

[1272]

Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 13. e.*

[1273]

Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,951.*

[1274]

Silvestre, Marques Typographiques des Imprimeurs en France, depuis 1470. Paris, 1853-61.

[1275]

Quoted in Cat. Cappi, of Bologna, 1829.

[1276]

Quoted in Cat. Cappi, of Bologna, 1829.

[1277]

Ibid.

[1278]

Ibid.

[1279]

Cat. Bib. Heber., part vi., p. 258. No. 3,514.

[1280]

Paris, Bib. Sainte-Geneviève. V. 634.* Bound in one volume with the three following. (Nos. 16, 17, and 18.)—Catalogue de Livres provenant de la Bibliothèque de M. L. D. D. L. V. (Duke de La Vallière). Paris, 1763. T. xi., No. 2,204.

[1281]

Bib. Ste. Geneviève. V. 634.*—Bib. de l'Arsenal. No. 11,953.*—Cat. d'Estrées. Paris, 1740-46. No. 8,843.3.

[1282]

Bib. Ste. Geneviève. V. 634.*—Bib. de l'Arsenal. No. 11,953.*—Cat. d'Estrées. No. 8,843. 1.

[1283]

Bib. Ste. Geneviève. V. 634.*—Bib. de l'Arsenal. No. 11.953.*

[1284]

Paris, Bib. Baron Jérôme Pichon.*

[1285]

Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 4.*

[1286]

Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 4. a.*—Catalogo ragionato dei libri posseduti dal Conte di Cicognara. Pisa, 1821. No. 1,818.

[1287]

Library V. and A. Museum.—Venice, Lib. St. Mark,—Milan, Bib. Marquis d'Adda.

[1288]

Milan, Bib. Marquis G. d'Adda.

[1289]

Rome, Bib. Prince Massimo.

[1290]

Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,954 (with D. de Sera).*

[1291]

Genoa, Cav. Merli.

[1292]

Quoted by Cav. Merli.

[1293]

Florence. M. Bigazzi.

[1294]

Paris, Bib. Nat. Milan, Bib. Belgiosa and Marquis d'Adda.

[1295]

Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,953.*—Bologna, Bib. Comm.—Cat. d'Estrées. 8843. No. 2.

[1296]

Mr. E. Arnold.

[1297]

Royal Library, Munich.

[1298]

Cat. Cicognara. 1583. No. 4.

[1299]

Bib. de l'Arsenal. No. 11,953.*—Mr. E. Arnold.

[1300]

Florence, M. Bigazzi.

[1301]

Cat. Cicognara. 1583. No. 1. Bound in one volume, with six others.

[1302]

Ibid. 1583. No. 5.

[1303]

Cat. Cicognara. 1583. No. 6.

[1304]

Ibid. 1583. No. 7.

[1305]

Cat. Cicognara. No. 17

[1306]

Ibid. 1583. No. 3.

[1307]

Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,953.*

[1308]

Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,953.*—Mrs. Stisted. Bagni di Lucca.

[1309]

Bib. Nat. V. 1901.*—Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,973.*—Cat. d'Estrées.

[1310]

Bib. Nat. V. 1901.*—Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,973.*—Cat. d'Estrées.

[1311]

Trezola, in the Riviera dialect, signifies a plait-tresse. "Porta i capei in trezola." ("She wears her hair plaited.")

[1312]

Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,955 bis,* with Vera Perfettione and Fiori of F. Franceschi, and Corona of Vecellio.

[1313]

Quoted by Willemin.

[1314]

Quoted in Art. "Tricot et Travaux des Dames."

[1315]

Bib. M. d'Adda.

[1316]

Dresden, New Museum for Art and Industry. Communicated by Mr. Gruner.

[1317]

Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,954.*

[1318]

Milan. Bib. Marquis Girolamo d'Adda.

[1319]

Bib. Rouen. No. 1313. Both Parts in one vol.*

[1320]

We have received notice of there being a copy of the original edition at Turin, in the Library of the University.

[1321]

Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 2.* (with Part I.): "Ex Bibliotheca illustrissimi Johannis d'Estrées Cameracensis Archiepiscopi designati quam Monasterio St. Germani à Pratis legavit. Anno 1718."

[1322]

Brussels, Bib. Roy. M. Alvin, Conservateur en Chef.

[1323]

Bib. Ste. Geneviève. V. 634.*—Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 2. b.*

[1324]

Bib. Ste. Geneviève (with 1st Part).*—Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 2. b. (with 1st Part).*

[1325]

Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,954 bis.*

[1326]

British Museum. Grenville Lib. 2584.*

[1327]

Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 1. a.*

[1328]

Brussels, Bib. Roy.—Cat. Cicognara. No. 1822.

[1329]

Quoted in Watt's Bibliographia Britannica.

[1330]

Bib. de l'Arsenal. No. 11,954 ter.*

[1331]

Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,955 bis.*—Bib. Bodleian.

[1332]

Ibid.

[1333]

Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,955* (with Books 2 and 3). Mazzette means detached bouquets—sprigs.

[1334]

Rouen, Bib. Bound in one vol. with the three parts of the Corona.*

[1335]

Communicated by Mr. Gruner.

[1336]

Note of M. Leber, who gives the dates of the dedication of the Rouen copy as follows:—B. 1, 20 Jan.; B. 2, 24 Jan.; B. 3, 15 June, all 1591. The Gioiello, 10 Nov., 1592. The vol. containing the two works has 101 plates, in addition to 10 leaves of titles, dedications, etc.

[1337]

Victoria and Albert Museum.

[1338]

Brussels, Bib. Royale. Jean de Glen is also author of a work entitled Des Habits, Mœurs, Ceremonies, Façons de faire, anciennes & modernes du Monde, par J. de Glen, Linger. Liége. J. de Glen. 1601. In-8.

[1339]

Lyon. M. Yemenis.

[1340]

Turin, Count Manzoni.

[1341]

Berlin, Royal Library.

[1342]

Dresden, New Museum of Art and Industry.

[1343]

Bib. Nat. V. 1902,* and Grav. L. h. 3.*—Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,956.*—Bib. Ste. Geneviève.*

[1344]

Victoria and Albert Museum.

[1345]

Bib. Nat. Grav. B. c. 22. Vinciolo.*

[1346]

Catalogue des Livres de feu M. Picard. 1780. No. 455.

[1347]

Brussels, Bib. Royale.

[1348]

Nuremberg, German Museum.

[1349]

Jew's stitch is given both by Sibmacher and Latomus. (No. 95.) We do not know what it is.

[1350]

Cited by Cav. Merli, in his Origine delle Trine.

[1351]

Cat. Evans, Strand.

[1352]

Paris, Musée de Cluny.*

[1353]

Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 4. b*.—Nuremberg, German Museum.

[1354]

Stockholm. Royal Library. (Communicated by the librarian, Mr. H. Wieselgren.) In the same library is a work, without title-page or date, for "broderies et de tous autres besongnant à l'aiguille," by Hieronymus Cock, containing, with designs of every description, a few patterns for Spanish point of great beauty.

[1355]

Bib. Baron J. Pichon, 2 copies.*—Cat. d'Estrées.—Bib. Nat. Grav. B. c. 22.* (Title-page wanting.)

[1356]

Bib. Rouen. No. 1,314.*—Bib. Baron J. Pichon.*

[1357]

Florence, Bib. Prof. Santerelli.—Rome, Bib. Prince Massimo.

[1358]

Cat. Evans, Strand.

[1359]

Hesse-Cassel, Public Library. Communicated by Mr. N. R. Bernhardi, the head Librarian.

[1360]

Lowndes, Bibliographer's Manual. New edit. by Henry Bohn.

[1361]

Victoria and Albert Museum.

[1362]

Vienna, Imperial Library.

[1363]

Brussels, Bib. Roy.

[1364]

Bib. Imp. Grav. L. h. 2. a.*—Brussels, Bib. Roy.—Cat. d'Estrées 8847.

[1365]

In the possession of Mrs. Marryat. "Maes y dderwen."—Bib. Bodleian.

[1366]

Quoted by Mr. Douce (Illustrations of Shakspeare).

[1367]

S. Marino. M. P. Bonella.

[1368]

Berlin, Roy. Library.

[1369]

Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,956 bis.*

[1370]

Victoria and Albert Museum.

[1371]

Victoria and Albert Museum.

[1372]

Ibid.

[1373]

A History of Hand-made Lace. Mrs. Nevill Jackson and E. Jesurum, 1900.

[1374]

A History of Hand-made Lace. Mrs. Nevill Jackson and E. Jesurum. 1900.

[1375]

A History of Hand-made Lace. Mrs. Nevill Jackson and E. Jesurum. 1900.

[1376]

A History of Hand-made Lace. Mrs. Nevill Jackson and E. Jesurum. 1900.