Chapter VI

PROGRESS AND COMPLETION OF THE WORKS IN THE YEAR 1810.

1810, January.

The shipping establishment connected with the Bell Rock service during the winter of 1809 and 1810, consisted only of the Pharos Floating-light and Sir Joseph Banks Tender; the other vessels being laid up in ordinary. The latter vessel was appointed to carry artificers to the Rock at spring-tides, for the inspection of the works, and to repair any small damage that might occur at the Beacon-house and Railways. She also supplied the Floating-light with provisions and necessaries, and changed the crew in their respective turns of leave on shore. The landing-master, Captain Wilson, was the appointed commander of this vessel; but as he and part of his crew were occupied constantly at the Rock during the building-season, they were occasionally relieved from the unpleasant duty of the Pharos, by such of the officers and seamen belonging to the other ships in the Light-house service, as were kept in pay during the winter months.

Friday 5th.

The Tender visits the Floating-light and Bell Rock.

Five artificers from the work-yard at Arbroath were allotted for visiting the Bell Rock, with Mr Francis Watt, the foreman mill-wright. They accordingly sailed on one of their trips on the 5th of January at 12 noon; but the Tender did not reach the Floating-light till next morning at 1 o’clock. The weather being moderate, a supply of fuel, water, and provisions, was immediately sent on board, when Captain Taylor, with Mr William Reid his mate, and four seamen, shifted to the Tender, and Captain Calder of the Light-house Yacht, with John Blackwood his mate, and four seamen, took their station in the Floating-light. The Tender then stood towards the Rock, when the artificers landed with the boats at 9, and remained till 12 noon, and in the afternoon, the vessel returned and got into the harbour of Arbroath; Mr Watt reporting that every thing was in good order.

Saturday 20th.

In the same manner, and with similar success, the Floating-light and Bell Rock were visited on the 20th of this month.

February.

Sunday, 11th.

Artificers cannot land on the Rock.

The Tender was in a state of readiness for the spring-tides, on the 5th of February, but the winds, though westerly, were so stormy, that she could not go to sea. The weather having moderated on the 11th, though then the period of neap-tides, she went off to change the crew of the Floating-light, and supply that ship with necessaries; and afterwards stood towards the Rock; but as it did not appear above water, a landing could not be effected, though, from the general aspect of things, the Beacon and Building were concluded to be in good order, and the vessel returned to Arbroath on the afternoon of Monday the 12th.

Wednesday, 21st.

Still prevented from landing.

The Tender sailed this morning at 5 o’clock, with a fine breeze at west, having on board the usual complement of artificers, a change of crew, and a supply of provisions for the Floating-light. At 9 she got off to the Rock, but the wind, by this time, blew so fresh, that it was found impracticable to land; every thing, however, about the Building and Beacon appeared to be in good order. At 11, the Tender stood towards the Floating-light, and, after considerable difficulty, the provisions were got on board, and a transfer made of the crews; when the Tender sailed for Arbroath, and got into the harbour at 4 P. M., having been only about eleven hours in making this trip.

1810, March.

Sunday, 11th.

A landing is effected. Large stones drifted upon the Rock.

At 4 o’clock this morning, the Tender sailed for the Rock with the wind at N. by E., when the artificers made a landing at half-past 10, and remained till 1 A. M., having found every thing in good order, excepting some parts of the Railways, which had received damage from the movement of a large drift-stone or traveller, estimated to contain upwards of one ton of rock, which was broken and removed, to prevent its doing more damage. The building, as high as the daily rise of the tide, was now covered with a strong growth of sea-weed. On the course, however, immediately above the Rock, the fuci had been prevented from taking root from the chips of stone which continually washed about the building. Some holes in the Rock, near the Beacon, which, in the year 1807, had been filled with ruble-building, a species of work rather unexpectedly found to withstand the force of the sea, had in the late gales been shaken loose, and laid open.—In the course of the gales of the 25th, 26th, and 27th of March, as is supposed, two large drift-stones or travellers had done considerable injury to the Railways. It also appeared, from certain marks upon the beams of the Beacon, at the height of about five feet above the Rock, that these stones, containing from seven to ten cubic feet each, or upwards of half a ton, had actually been lifted by the sea and driven with force against the Beacon. In the course of these gales, also, the large cask-buoy, used as the moorings of the Tender, had broken adrift. During these gales, the Floating-light rolled very heavily, and had shipped several great seas, but nothing of any consequence happened in the way of damage to the vessel or her appurtenances.

Beacon now rendered very secure.

As the finishing of the Light-house, in the course of next season, depended wholly upon the stability of the Beacon, every possible attention was paid to its safety; and it was most satisfactory to learn, by Mr Watt’s report, that every thing about it continued in good order. On almost every visit during the two former winters, some of the bracing-chains were found in a broken state; but since the months of September and October last, when they were removed, and replaced with thirty-six great bars of iron bolted to the principal beams, as shown in Plate VIII., every thing had remained in a state of connected firmness.

Progress of the works at Arbroath.

The hewing or cutting of the several courses, forming the void of the Light-house, was also in great forwardness in the work-yard at Arbroath; and by the latter end of the month of April, the Forty-fourth course, forming part of the store-room, shewn in the section of Plate XVI., was laid on the platform, and ready for shipping to the Rock. The burning and pounding of the Aberthaw lime, and the preparation of other materials, were also going on.

1810, April.

Landing on the Rock precarious in Winter.

The season, though now advanced to the month of April, was still boisterous. The day, however, was getting long, and the influence of the sun began to be felt in checking the frosts, which often stopped both the quarrying operations and the stone-cutters. The lengthening of the day, as well as moderate weather, was a great regulating circumstance in the Bell Rock works; for, during the winter months, only one low-water tide occurred with day-light; and, indeed, in the depth of winter, there may be said to be no very favourable opportunity of landing on the Rock, as low-water at new and full moon happens here about 8 o’clock, which renders the chance of landing extremely uncertain and precarious.

Retrospective view of the works. Mylnefield Quarry.

Previously to entering upon the operations of the season 1810, it may be proper, in this place, to take a retrospective view of the various departments of the work. The granite courses of the Bell Rock Light-house having been completed, for a considerable time, it was only the sandstone quarries that were to be attended to. As formerly noticed, the stone of Mylnefield, like that of most quarries which lie in strata or alternate beds, is liable to split and become useless, from the effects of frost, owing to the natural sap or moisture which they contain. Water, being unlike other bodies which follow the general law of contracting in volume with a reduction of temperature, is found, on the contrary, to encrease in bulk at the moment of congelation, producing the most surprising effects in rending rocks, even with an explosive force. In sandstone quarries, therefore, the work is usually suspended during the months of December, January, February and March, when the frost happens to be intense, as was the case in the winter of 1809–1810, when the thermometer occasionally fell so low as the 17th degree of Fahrenheit. Notwithstanding every precaution in the work-yard at Arbroath, by covering the quarried materials with straw and brushwood, many excellent and valuable stones were lost by the intenseness of the frost. Such, however, was the desire of getting early forward with the work, in order to insure the completion of the building operations in the favourable part of the season, that the writer took the earliest measures for getting an additional supply of stones from Mylnefield; and, by the beginning of the month of April, the Smeaton and Patriot, together with the hired sloop Alexander, were loaded and sent to Arbroath.

Craigleith Quarry.

From this description of the nature of the stone of Mylnefield, it became necessary, for the furtherance of the upper parts of the Light-house during the winter months, that they should be prepared of stone which would admit of being worked without much risk of injury during frosty weather. For the cornice of the building, and the parapet of the light-room, the writer, therefore, made choice of the Liver-rock of the Craigleith Quarry, well known for its durability and beauty, and for its property of not being liable to be affected by frost. By this means also, the iron-work or frame of the Light-room might be fitted to the masonry on the spot where it was to be prepared, which would thereby lessen the actual work upon the Rock. Another advantage attending this arrangement, was the opportunity it afforded of making practical trial of the Balance-crane, with which the masonry of the ensuing season was to be built, as it had been found necessary to make several alterations on its construction.

State of the Works at Edinburgh.

The use of a piece of vacant ground was accordingly got at Greenside, contiguous to the author’s house, in Edinburgh, where a number of masons were employed, at the sight of Mr Peter Logan, foreman builder. A very considerable difficulty was, however, experienced in procuring so many principal stones of the liver-rock, of the description and dimensions necessary for the cornice and balcony; the stones of which also formed the Light-room floor in one length, as will be understood by examining Plates XIII. and XVI. But, as these works commenced at Edinburgh in the latter end of October 1809, they were completed early in the month of March 1810, and the whole of this critical and difficult part of the building was then ready for shipping to the Bell Rock. The several compartments of the Light-room were now also in progress. The sheets of silver-plated copper for the reflectors having been ordered from Messrs Boulton and Watt,—the glass from the British Plate-Glass Company,—the cast-iron sash-frames from Mr John Patterson of the Edinburgh Foundery,—while the construction of the reflectors and reflecting-apparatus, together with the framing of the whole Light-room and its appurtenances, were executed under the immediate directions of Mr Thomas Smith, the writer’s predecessor, who had now retired from the more active duties of engineer to the Light-house Board.

Practical conclusions about the period of completing the Works, and mode of distinguishing the Light.

Having, in the course of the two last seasons, landed and built upwards of 1400 tons of stone upon the Bell Rock, while the work was low in the water, and before the Beacon was habitable, and finding that it did not now require more than about 700 tons to complete the masonry, the writer concluded, that, barring accidents of a very untoward nature, there was every prospect of the Light-house being finished in the course of the ensuing season. A question, of much importance, however, still remained in some measure undetermined, regarding the characteristic description of the light most suitable for the Bell Rock, so as to render it easily distinguishable from all others upon the coast. There being Stationary-lights already in the Firth of Forth; this mode could not be adopted for the Bell Rock. Revolving-lights had also lately been erected upon the Fearn Islands, the most contiguous Light-house-station to the southward, as will be seen from the General Chart of the coast in Plate III. Considering, therefore, the liability of the mariner to mistake the appearance of lights in stormy weather, or from an error in his course in returning from a distant voyage, it was of the last importance that the Bell Rock Light-house should be easily distinguishable. The most suitable means for accomplishing this seemed to be by the exhibition of different colours from the same Light-room. The only colour which had yet been found to answer, was produced by interposing shades of red glass before the reflectors. But this was the colour used for distinguishing the Light of Flamborough-head, on the Yorkshire coast, and, though about 169 miles to the southward, it would still have been desirable to have avoided the same colour. A train of experiments was therefore made from Inchkeith Light-house, with plates of glass, coloured red, green, orange, yellow, blue, and purple, procured from Birmingham and London. These were fitted to the reflectors at Inchkeith, within view of the writer’s windows in Edinburgh. The Tender was likewise appointed to cruise, that more distant observations might be made, for ascertaining the effect of these coloured shades. But after the most full and satisfactory trials, the red colour was found to be the only one applicable to this purpose. In tolerably clear weather, the light of one reflector tinged red, alternating with a light of the natural appearance, with intervals of darkness, was easily distinguishable at the distance of eight or nine miles; while the other colours rendered the light opaque, being hardly distinguishable to the naked eye at more than two or three miles. After various trials and observations made in this manner, both on land and at sea, the writer at length resolved on recommending the use of red, as the only colour suitable for this purpose; and, in order to vary the light as much as possible from that of Flamborough-head, a square Reflector-frame was adopted at the Bell Rock, with two of its faces or sides having red coloured shades, and the other two exhibiting lights of the natural appearance. At Flamborough-head, the Reflector-frame is triangular, and on one side it is furnished with red coloured shades, while the other two sides exhibit lights of the natural appearance. The design at the Bell Rock, on the contrary, was to exhibit a light tinged red, alternating with one of the natural appearance; and, upon this principle, the apparatus was put in a state of preparation.

1810, March.

State of the Works at Arbroath.

In the work-yard at Arbroath things were going forward very prosperously, at the sight of Mr David Logan, clerk of works. The hewing or preparation of the stones for the Light-house was now advanced to within about eight courses of the cornice, which, with the parapet, as already observed, was all set up at Edinburgh, and ready for being shipped when wanted at the Rock. A kiln of the Aberthaw limestone having already been calcined, was partly reduced to the state of powder, and put up into casks, as formerly. The operation of pounding the lime was very tedious and unpleasant, being performed by labourers upon a stone-bench in the lime-house, where it was reduced chiefly by means of friction, between the bench and stones, managed by hand. Due proportions of pozzolano-earth and clean sharp sand were made up in casks, and the oaken trenails and wedges in bundles; but the supply wanted of these materials was, in future, to be comparatively trifling. The building being now considerably above the rise of the tide, the use of mortar was less, while the system of trenailing and wedging was to be discontinued, after the building had reached the top of the stone staircase, or to the height of 13 feet above the solid. The several implements connected with the building operations being also laid to hand, nothing was now required but good weather and favourable tides, to proceed with the works at the Rock.

Gangway or Bridge for the Rock.

1810, April.

Among the preparations at Arbroath for the furtherance of the work at the Bell Rock, was the construction of a gangway or bridge of timber between the Beacon and the Building, instead of the Rope-ladder employed with so much effect last season, as will be understood by examining the second and third years’ work, represented in Plate IX. This more stable and commodious way of communicating with the works, was also to be useful as a stage for raising the building materials, instead of the lower crane, the stool or prop of which had become too low, and, as before noticed, had been washed away by the sea in the course of last month. This bridge consisted of two principal beams of Memel timber, measuring 44 feet in length, 6 inches in thickness, and 13 inches in depth. At one end these beams were to abut against the principal beams of the Beacon, and to be strongly bolted to them; at the opposite end, one was to be rested on the sole or instep of the door, while the other was to be let 6 inches into a hole cut into the upper granite course of the Light-house. They were placed 7 feet apart, and formed a roadway of 6 feet in breadth between the rails, which was strongly bound in a lateral direction with cross framing mortised into the principal beams, and otherwise fixed with screw-bolts. The bridge was further to be supported by four diagonal spur-beams, which met in pairs on each side, at the middle of the roadway, and there formed king-posts, to steady and support it. A crab or winch-machine was to be placed upon it, for raising the stones at once from the rock to the level of the top of the solid part of the building.

Wednesday, 18th.

Operations commence for the season. Wooden Bridge is erected.

After making the experiments relative to the distinguishing of the light, the Tender sailed from Leith Roads on the morning of Tuesday, the 3d of April, and got into Arbroath on the 6th, where she lay. Being fitted out for the Rock, with a sufficient stock of water and provisions, and having also on board the beams and apparatus for the wooden bridge, she sailed at 1 o’clock this morning, with eleven masons, three joiners, and two blacksmiths, together with Mr Francis Watt, foreman, in all seventeen artificers, who were to be employed during the ensuing spring-tides, in erecting the bridge between the Beacon and Building. At 3 P. M. she was made fast to the new moorings, which had been laid down for her in lieu of those which had drifted on the 26th of March; but the weather was then so boisterous, that no landing could be made on the Rock till the following morning, at 6 o’clock, when they commenced the operations of the season by laying the deals of the mortar-gallery, or lowest floor of the Beacon. Although the weather continued to be extremely boisterous till the 23d, the Tender’s marine barometer oscillating between 29.05 and 29.60, yet the wind being westerly, the artificers were enabled to pursue their operations by landing daily; for, upon this occasion, the Beacon was not taken possession of, and they returned at night to the Tender. On the 24th the weather became very fine; the barometer remaining for several days at about 30.10. The work now proceeded with so much alacrity and dispatch, that by the 28th the fixing of the bridge was completed, and the Tender returned with all hands to Arbroath.

Monday, 23d.

Charles Gray gets one of his fingers severely bruised.

While the Tender waited the operations of the artificers at the Rock, the Smeaton made two trips to it, and laid down six sets of moorings with their floating-buoys, so that every thing was now in a state of readiness for the commencement of the works. When unloading these moorings, Charles Gray, a seaman, unfortunately got one of his fingers so bruised between the hatchway of the ship and a mushroom-anchor, that it was found necessary to amputate part of it.

1810, May.

Tuesday, 1st.

The Writer proceeds for the Rock, to begin building for the season.

The Smeaton having come to Leith for the Balance-crane, the writer sailed this afternoon with her for the Bell Rock, to commence the building operations for the season. The weather, for the last eight days, had been extremely stormy, and, though still unfavourable, yet, being moderate, hopes were entertained that she would soon make her way down the Firth of Forth. After beating to windward for a day and a night, however, she was obliged to bear away for Burntisland Roads, where he left the vessel, to pursue his journey by land to Arbroath, accompanied by Mr James Dove, foreman-smith, to whom particularly the change in the mode of travelling was a great relief, as, notwithstanding his having had considerable practice at sea, he was still a great martyr to sickness, and even felt a dislike for every thing connected with a ship, which was strongly marked by the following trifling occurrence. On leaving the Smeaton, Captain Pool, presenting the bread-basket to Mr Dove, observed, that, although he could not eat on board, he might perhaps be thankful of a biscuit when he got on shore; on which Mr Dove gravely replied, that “it would be long to the day before he would be thankful for a sea-biscuit.” The object of his journey at this time was to fit up the Balance-crane on the top of the building, and to superintend its operation for a time on the Rock. This useful implement had been constructed in the course of last season, but was not then found to be in a sufficiently serviceable state. It was accordingly new-modelled, and, though an opportunity had been afforded of making trial of it at Edinburgh, in raising the weighty stones of the cornice and balcony of the Light-house, yet the writer wished Mr Dove also to fit it at the Bell Rock. They reached Arbroath on the evening of the 3d.

Saturday, 5th.

The Tender is ready for sea.

The Smeaton arrived at Arbroath to-day with the Balance-crane, which was immediately put on board of the Tender, now ready to proceed for the Rock with the first good weather. The Smeaton then took on board the stone ballast, and platform, laid in her hold for the greater conveniency of stowing and discharging the prepared stones of the building. The wind had now changed to the S.W., and hopes were entertained of a return of good weather. But this being the period of neap-tides, and considering that it might be three or four months before some of the artificers again returned to the shore, as the Beacon was now habitable, it was intimated to them on Saturday, that the Tender would not sail till Monday. They accordingly attended church to-day, with their wonted decency of deportment.

Monday, 7th.

Writer sails with the Artificers for the Rock.

The artificers having been warned to take their quarters on board of the Tender last night, the writer sailed this morning from Arbroath at half-past 2, accompanied by Mr Peter Logan, foreman builder, Mr Francis Watt, foreman mill-wright, and Mr James Dove, foreman smith, together with sixteen artificers, and the regular crew of the vessel, in all counting thirty-two persons; but the Tender having the Hedderwick praam-boat in tow, went slowly off. At 12 noon the Floating-light was hailed, when Captain Wilson, the landing-master, came on board, to take his station for the season, and at 1 P. M. the Tender was made fast to her moorings at the Bell Rock. The praam-boat was immediately hauled alongside, and the apparatus of the Balance-crane laid upon her deck, when she was towed to her moorings, there being too much sea at this time, for attempting to land upon the Rock. As the barometer stood at 30.04, hopes were entertained that the weather would soon improve.

Tuesday, 8th.

Landing impracticable.

The wind was at east to-day, and the sea still broke so heavily upon the Rock, that no landing could be made. At high-water, the spray was observed to fly considerably above the building, perhaps not less than 20 feet, in all about 50 feet above the Rock, while the seas were raging and breaking among the beams of the Beacon with much violence.

Wednesday, 9th.

The Praam-boats ride easily.

The same boisterous state of the weather still continued, and the sea-swell was nothing abated to-day, so that no landing could yet be made upon the Rock. The landing-master, however, went in a boat, and examined the Praam-boat at her moorings, where every thing was found in good order. It is here worthy of remark, that while the Tender and Floating-light rolled much, and occasionally shipped pretty heavy seas, the praam, with a cargo of about three tons on board, was perfectly dry upon deck, and to use the seamen’s expression, “rode as easily as an old shoe.”

Thursday, 10th.

State of the Building.

The wind had shifted to-day to W.NW., when the writer, with considerable difficulty, was enabled to land upon the Rock, for the first time this season, at 10 A. M. Upon examining the state of the Building, and Apparatus in general, he had the satisfaction to find every thing in good order. The mortar in all the joints was perfectly entire. The building, now 30 feet in height, was thickly coated with fuci to the height of about 15 feet, calculating from the Rock: on the eastern side, indeed, the growth of sea-weed was observable to the full height of 30 feet, and even on the top or upper bed of the last laid course, especially towards the eastern side, it had germinated, so as to render walking upon it somewhat difficult. The smith’s forge, which had been removed from the mortar-gallery to the top of the Building, in the month of September last, to give more accommodation to the works of the joiners, was left there for the season,—the bellows excepted, which were kept under cover in the Beacon throughout the winter; and, it is not a little remarkable, that, although the sea had risen to a considerable height, and fallen in great quantities upon the top of the building; yet such was the centrical position of the forge, that it remained quite entire: even the spar of timber, and the small cords which had been stretched for steadying it, and forming an awning of about 8 feet in diameter, for sheltering the smith, were also still in their places. This was a proof that no very heavy seas had broken so high as the top of the solid, otherwise the forge and the apparatus for supporting the awning, must have long since been swept away by the breach of the sea.

State of the Beacon.

The Beacon-house was in a perfectly sound state, and apparently just as it had been left in the month of November. But the tides being neap, the lower parts, particularly where the beams rested on the Rock, could not now be seen. The great iron-bars, however, which measure 3 inches square, and from 7 to 9 feet in length, stretching between the principal beams, in place of the bracing chains, which were found constantly liable to break and unscrew, were in view, and in good order. The whole frame of this fabric was now in a firm and secure state. The floor of the mortar-gallery having been already laid down by Mr Watt and his men on a former visit, was merely soaked with the sprays; but the joisting-beams which supported it had, in the course of the winter, been covered with a fine downy conferva, produced by the range of the sea. They were also a good deal whitened with the mute of the cormorant and other sea-fowls, which had roosted upon the Beacon in winter. Upon ascending to the apartments, it was found that the motion of the sea had thrown open the door of the cook-house: this was only shut with a simple latch, that, in case of shipwreck at the Bell Rock, the mariner might find ready access to the shelter of this forlorn habitation, where a supply of provisions was kept; and being within two miles and a half of the Floating-light, a signal could readily be observed, when a boat might be sent to his relief as soon as the weather permitted. An arrangement for this purpose formed one of the Instructions on board of the Floating-light, but happily no instance occurred for putting it in practice. The hearth or fire-place of the cook-house was built of brick, in as secure a manner as possible, to prevent accident from fire; but some of the plaster work had shaken loose, from its damp state, and the tremulous motion of the Beacon in stormy weather. The writer next ascended to the floor which was occupied by the cabins of himself, and his assistants, which were in tolerably good order, having only a damp and musty smell. The barrack for the artificers over all, was next visited: it had now a very dreary and deserted appearance, when its former thronged state was recollected. In some parts, the water had come through the boarding, and had discoloured the lining of green cloth, but it was, nevertheless, in a good habitable condition. While the seamen were employed in landing a stock of provisions, a few of the artificers set to work, with great eagerness, to sweep and clean the several apartments. The exterior of the Beacon was, in the mean time, examined, and found in perfect order. The painting, though it had a somewhat blanched appearance, adhered firmly both on the sides and roof, and only two or three panes of glass were broken in the cupola, which had either been blown out by the force of the wind, or perhaps broken by sea-fowl.

Thursday, 10th.

State of the Timber Bridge.

Having, on this occasion, continued upon the building and beacon a considerable time, after the tide had begun to flow, the artificers were occupied in removing the forge from the top of the building, to which the gangway or wooden bridge gave great facility; and, although it stretched or had a span of 42 feet, its construction was extremely simple, while the roadway was perfectly firm and steady. In returning from this visit to the Rock, every one was pretty well soused in spray, before reaching the Tender at 2 o’clock P. M., where things awaited the landing party in as comfortable a way as such a situation would admit.

Friday, 11th.

Balance-crane landed. Position of the Entrance-door.

The wind was still easterly, accompanied with rather a heavy swell of sea, for the operations in hand. A landing was, however, made this morning, when the artificers were immediately employed in scraping the sea-weed off the upper course of the building, in order to apply the moulds of the first course of the staircase, that the joggle-holes might be marked off in the upper course of the solid, which, as formerly, had not been done to the finishing course of the season. This was also necessary previously to the writer’s fixing the position of the entrance-door, which was regulated chiefly by the appearance of the growth of the sea-weed on the building, indicating the direction of the heaviest seas, on the opposite side of which the door was placed. The landing-master’s crew succeeded in towing into the creek on the western side of the Rock, the praam-boat, with the balance-crane, which had now been on board of the praam for five days. The several pieces of this machine having been conveyed along the Railways upon the waggons, to a position immediately under the bridge, were elevated to its level, or thirty feet above the Rock, in the following manner. A chain-tackle was suspended over a pulley from the cross-beam, connecting the tops of the king-posts of the bridge, which was worked by a winch-machine, with wheel, pinion and barrel, round which last the chain was wound. This apparatus was placed on the Beacon-side of the bridge, at the distance of about twelve feet from the cross beam and pulley in the middle of the bridge. Immediately under the cross-beam a hatch was formed in the roadway of the bridge, measuring 7 feet in length and 5 feet in breadth, made to shut with folding boards like a double-door, through which stones and other articles were raised; the folding-doors were then let down, and the stone or load was gently lowered upon a waggon which was wheeled on railway tracks towards the Light-house. In this manner, the several castings of the balance-crane were got up to the top of the solid of the building.

Artificers take possession of the Beacon.

The several apartments of the Beacon-house having been cleaned out and supplied with bedding, a sufficient stock of provisions was put into the store, when Peter Fortune, formerly noticed, lighted his fire in the Beacon, for the first time this season. Sixteen artificers, at the same time, mounted to their barrack-room, and the foremen of the works also took possession of their cabin, all heartily rejoiced at getting rid of the trouble of boating, and the sickly motion of the Tender. The boats had landed on the Rock this morning at 9, and the writer left it again with the landing-master and his crew at 3 P. M., and went on board of the Tender for the night, after having seen some progress made in setting up the balance-crane.

Smeaton arrives with the first cargo.

The Smeaton having been loaded at Arbroath with the first cargo of stones, consisting of thirty-eight blocks of the Twenty-seventh course, got to her moorings at the Bell Rock this morning, and was made fast, though not without considerable difficulty. But, nothing could be done towards delivering her until the balance-crane was got into a working state.

Saturday, 12th.

No communication with the Rock.

The wind was at E.NE., blowing so fresh, and accompanied with so much sea, that no stones could be landed to-day. The people on the Rock, however, were busily employed in screwing together the balance-crane, cutting out the joggle-holes in the upper course, and preparing all things for commencing the building operations.

Sunday, 13th.

Balance-crane ready for use.

The weather still continues boisterous, although the barometer has all the while stood at about 30 inches. Towards evening, the wind blew so fresh at E. by S., that the boats both of the Smeaton and Tender were obliged to be hoisted in, and it was feared that the Smeaton would have to slip her moorings. The people on the Rock were seen busily employed, and had the balance-crane apparently ready for use, but no communication could be had with them to-day.

Theory of the land and sea breeze exemplified.

The wind had now prevailed long from the eastward, and it was remarked on board of the Tender, that, in moderate weather, it generally inclined from the northward in the mornings, and from the eastward and southward, as the sun advanced to the meridian; in this respect, resembling the land and sea breezes, familiar to those acquainted with tropical climates. This phenomenon is accounted for, by considering the state of the inland country, where the Grampian-hills lie about 20 miles northward from the coast, thickly covered with snow. The winds, therefore, in the early part of the day, generally came from these colder regions, towards the milder and somewhat more rare atmosphere of the sea. But in the after part of the day, the heat of the sun, acting more powerfully upon the arable lands and objects in the fore-ground of this mountainous range, rarified the air more highly upon the shores than on the sea, which produced a tendency in the winds to blow towards the land. Extending this view of the subject to the great tracts of snow-covered mountains, in the north-eastern districts of Europe, it is natural to suppose that the current of the winds will be from these colder regions towards the expanse of the Atlantic Ocean. Hence the prevailing winds in the spring of the year are from the eastward, in their passage across Great Britain to the Atlantic.

Monday, 14th.

Smeaton slips her moorings.

The wind continued to blow so fresh, and the Smeaton rode so heavily with her cargo, that at noon a signal was made for her getting under way, when she stood towards Arbroath; and, on board of the Tender, we are still without any communication with the people on the Rock; where the sea was seen breaking over the top of the building in great sprays, and ranging with much agitation among the beams of the Beacon.

Tuesday 15th.

Returns to the Rock.

The Smeaton did not go into Arbroath last night, as the appearance of a northerly or land breeze induced the active spirit of Captain Pool to stand off again for the Bell Rock; but he had no sooner reached his moorings at 5 o’clock this morning, than the wind again shifted to the S.E., and he could not get hold of the ring of the Floating-buoy of his moorings, and was, therefore, obliged to return again towards Arbroath. There was still no communication between the Tender and the Rock, as the sea continued to run very heavily upon it.

Wednesday, 16th.

Is driven to Leith Roads.

The wind had shifted to the N.E. this morning, and hopes were entertained that it might take a more northerly direction, but it continued without change, and for two or three days past the Barometer had been falling, and was now at 29.50. It was, therefore, still impossible to land upon the Rock. The appearance of the weather brought the Smeaton out of the harbour, Captain Pool having become very impatient to get his first cargo landed; but, on his arrival, instead of being able to make fast to his moorings, the writer found it necessary to direct him to proceed for Leith Roads, as the proper place for the vessel in the present state of the weather.

Thursday 17th.

Patriot sent to the quarry for the last cargo of stones.

People at the Rock experience boisterous weather.

The Smeaton had no sooner reached the Firth last night, and anchored in Leith Roads, than the wind came round to the north, and Pool, without delay, once more weighed anchor and sailed for the Bell Rock, which he reached this morning. The Patriot, at the same time, came off from Arbroath with water, fuel, and provisions for the supply of the Floating-light, the Tender, and Beacon-house, and after discharging these, she proceeded for Mylnefield Quarry, for the last cargo of stones wanted for the Bell Rock Light-house. On this trip the writer had great pleasure in dispatching her, as this state of things greatly narrowed the operations. The wind, in the course of the day, had shifted from north to west; the sea being also considerably less, a boat landed on the Rock at 6 P. M., for the first time since the 11th, with the provisions and water brought off by the Patriot. The inhabitants of the Beacon were all well, but tired above measure for want of employment, as the balance-crane and apparatus was all in readiness. Under these circumstances, they felt no less desirous of the return of good weather than those afloat, who were continually tossed with the agitation of the sea. The writer, in particular, felt himself almost as much fatigued and worn out as he had been at any period since the commencement of the work. The very backward state of the weather at so advanced a period of the season, unavoidably created some alarm, lest he should be overtaken with bad weather, at a late period of the season, with the building operations in an unfinished state. These apprehensions were, no doubt, rather increased by the inconveniences of his situation afloat, as the Tender rolled and pitched excessively at times. This being also his first off-set for the season, every bone of his body felt sore, with preserving a sitting posture, while he endeavoured to pass away the time in reading; as for writing it was wholly impracticable. He had several times entertained thoughts of leaving the station for a few days, and going into Arbroath with the Tender till the weather should improve; but, as the artificers had been landed on the Rock, he was averse to this at the commencement of the season, knowing also that he would be equally uneasy in every situation, till the first cargo was landed; and he, therefore, resolved to continue at his post until this should be effected.

State of lower parts of the Beacon. Effects of marine vermes.

At low-water to-day, an opportunity was afforded of examining the lower parts of the Beacon-house. The kneed Bats, or great iron stanchions, employed for fixing the principal beams to the Rock, which will be seen by examining Plate VIII., were found in good order, without the least appearance of movement or decay. The same observation is also applicable to the exterior of the principal beams of the Beacon, wherever the charring of the timber and successive coats of boiling pitch had been applied; but at the foot or sole of the respective beams, where they rested upon a site cut for them upon the rock, where the pitch could not be applied, the òniscus or vermis so destructive to timber exposed to the wash of the sea, had made a considerable impression, and the beams were found to be hollowed out. In several instances, they even stood clear of the Rock, depending only upon the stanchions and bolts for their support. The circumstance of these vermes attacking the sole of the beams, had not been anticipated, otherwise preventive means might have been adopted, by sheathing them with copper, especially where they rested on the Rock.

Friday, 18th.

23 blocks of stone landed and raised with the new tackle.

The company of artificers, lodged on the Beacon, having been increased from sixteen to twenty-two, their time hang very heavily on their hands, till the stones were landed on the Rock. The wind being now N.W., the sea was considerably run down, and this morning at 5 o’clock, the landing-master’s crew, thirteen in number, left the Tender; and having now no detention with the landing of artificers, they proceeded to unmoor the Hedderwick Praam-boat, and towed her alongside of the Smeaton; and in the course of the day, twenty-three blocks of stone, three casks of pozzolano, three of sand, three of lime, and one of Roman cement, together with three bundles of trenails, and three of wedges, were all landed on the Rock and raised to the top of the building, by means of the tackle suspended from the cross-beam on the middle of the bridge. The stones were then moved along the bridge on the waggon to the building, within reach of the balance-crane, with which they were laid in their respective places on the building. The masons immediately thereafter proceeded to bore the trenail holes into the course below, and otherwise to complete the one in hand. When the first stone was to be suspended by the balance-crane, the bell on the Beacon was rung, and all the artificers and seamen were collected on the building. Three hearty cheers were given while it was lowered into its place, and the steward served round a glass of rum, when success was drank to the further progress of the building.

One of the stones in danger from the breaking of a bolt.

Having thus had the satisfaction of finding that the bridge and its apparatus answered every purpose for raising the materials; that the balance-crane was no less suitable for building the stones, which, from their dove-tailed form, as before noticed, required that they should be slipped or laid perpendicularly into their sites; and the artificers being now comfortably lodged in the Beacon-house, there hardly remained a doubt that the Bell Rock Light-house would be completed in the course of the current year. It often happens, however, that accidents occur on the first trial of machinery; and, accordingly, in shifting the wheel and pinion work of the winch-machine upon the bridge, from the single to the double-purchase, in order to raise a pretty heavy stone, the bolt of the bush gave way, just as the stone had attained its full height, and was about to be lowered on the bridge-waggon, to be moved within the sphere of the balance-crane. The fall of the stone, though only from a height of 8 or 9 inches, communicated a sudden shock throughout the Beacon-house, and produced an alarm among the workmen for the moment. Had this accident occurred before the waggon was wheeled under the stone, in all probability it would have killed some of those who were at work below upon the Rock; besides breaking the stone and the railway, which must have stopped the work for a considerable time, until another stone could have been prepared and sent from the work-yard at Arbroath.

Saturday, 19th.

15 stones landed.

The Smeaton having been completely discharged last night, sailed at 10 P. M. for Arbroath, to load a second cargo for the Bell Rock. The Patriot had towed off the Dickie Praam-boat to-day, being of a somewhat smaller size, and more handy than the Fernie, which now lay in ordinary, at Arbroath, in case of accident to the Hedderwick or Dickie. The wind, however, being rather unsteady, it was feared that no materials would have been landed; but Captain Wilson, with his usual dexterity and skill, succeeded in transporting fifteen stones, which were raised to the top of the building, by means of the tackle on the bridge, and built by the balance-crane with wonderful facility.

Smeaton makes rapid trips.

This morning at 1 o’clock, the Smeaton got into Arbroath, when Mr Kennedy, engineer’s clerk, had the artificers immediately called, who loaded her with the Twenty-eighth course of the building, consisting of thirty-three pieces of stone, besides six casks of pozzolano, six casks of lime, six casks of sand, four bundles of trenails, four bundles of wedges, and eight stone joggles, together with four logs of timber, one Railway-waggon, and a supply of water, beer, fuel and provisions for the Beacon-house. At 2 P. M. she sailed again for the Bell Rock, and reached it at 5, to the surprise of every one, Captain Pool being no less active in his trips than Mr Kennedy was zealous in the dispatch given at the work-yard.

Sunday, 20th.

Prayers first read on the Light-house.

The wind was southerly to-day, but there was much less sea than yesterday, and the landing-master’s crew were enabled to discharge and land twenty-three pieces of stone, and other articles for the work. The artificers had completed the laying of the Twenty-seventh or First course of the staircase this morning, and in the evening, they finished the boring, trenailing, wedging, and grouting with it mortar. At 12 o’clock noon, the Beacon-house bell was rung, and all hands were collected on the top of the building, where prayers were read, for the first time, on the Light-house, which forcibly struck every one, and had, upon the whole, a very impressive effect. The artificers then went to their barrack to dinner, and the landing-master’s crew went off to the Tender. In the afternoon, the remainder of the Smeaton’s cargo was discharged, and she sailed for Arbroath at 11 P. M.

Monday, 21st.

Active exertions of the landing-master’s crew.

The Patriot had arrived at Arbroath with the last cargo of stones from Mylnefield Quarry for the Light-house, on the 19th, and was fully discharged to-day, and was now fitting with her ballast and platform for carrying off the worked materials to the Rock. The wind being at south, caused a considerable swell on the Rock, and it was with great difficulty that the landing-master got the remaining ten stones of the Smeaton’s last cargo landed from the Hedderwick. His crew were not only completely drenched, but were much exhausted with the fatigue of pulling the loaded praam-boat against the swell of the sea; and on reaching the Rock, it required their utmost exertions to prevent her from driving to leeward upon the rugged ledges which encumbered the eastern creek.

Tuesday, 22d.

Thirty-first course completed.

The dispatch made by the Smeaton in performing her trips between Arbroath and the Bell Rock, was quite surprising, being seldom more than one day absent. On the last trip, for example, she had only left the Rock on Sunday night at 11, and this morning at 8 o’clock, she returned to her moorings with thirty-five pieces of stone. Of these, seventeen were landed to-day, with which the Thirty-first course of the building was completed, and the remainder of the day was occupied in boring the trenail holes in the lower course, fixing the trenails and wedges, and grouting the whole carefully with mortar.

Wednesday, 23d.

The Patriot arrived at the Rock this morning, with her first cargo of building materials for the season, consisting of 42 stones, together with a supply of pozzolano, lime, sand, wedges, trenails, and 8 stone joggles. The Smeaton was completely discharged of her cargo, and sailed again at 2 P. M., when the writer took his passage with her to Arbroath.

Thursday, 24th.

Arrangements for conduct of the work, and safety of the Beacon.

The weather continued moderate at the Rock, with the wind at west, and 18 stones of the Patriot’s cargo were landed and built to-day. The Accounts connected with the Light-house service were collected at this period, being paid at the terms of Whitsunday and Martinmas. The writer at the same time arranged some matters more fully in the work-yard, connected with the loading of the materials at Arbroath. In particular, Mr David Logan, clerk of works, was held responsible for providing every thing contained in the Requisition of the foreman-builder; while Mr Kennedy, engineer’s clerk, was answerable for the other parts of the respective Requisitions from the Tender and Beacon, and for the dispatch given in the loading and sailing of the vessels. The masters of the stone-vessels were accordingly directed, on their arrival by night or day, to deliver all letters at the office. In the same manner, before leaving the Rock, Regulations for the proper conduct of the works there, were also instituted; where his assistants were also held responsible for the duties of their several departments; Mr Peter Logan, for the execution of the masonry; Mr Francis Watt, for the good condition of the Beacon-house, Railways, and Machinery; Captain Wilson, for the state of the Praams and other boats employed in the landing of materials, and for the safety of the stones and building-materials in transporting them from the ship’s hold till they were placed upon the waggons on the Rock. The steward, Mr John Peters, was answerable for making the necessary Requisitions for a sufficient stock of provisions, water and fuel; while Captain Taylor, master of the Tender, was to see a proper stock of these articles landed and kept in store upon the Rock. From the hazardous situation of the Beacon-house with regard to fire, being composed wholly of timber, there was no small risk from accident; and on this account, one of the most steady of the artificers was appointed to see that the fire of the cooking-house, and the lights in general, were carefully extinguished at stated hours.

Friday, 25th.

The weather continued to be extremely fine, with the wind at west, and the barometer standing about 30 inches. The landing operations proceeded briskly, so that the building was to-day ready for the Door-lintel.

Saturday, 26th.

Balance-crane shaft is broken.

The door-lintel being of large dimensions, equal to about a ton and a half in weight, and considerably heavier than any of the other stones of this course, in raising it with the balance-crane, sufficient attention had not been paid to increase the balance-weight proportionally, and an unequal strain being then brought upon the opposite arms of the crane, the upright shaft yielded, and broke at one of the joints; fortunately no person was hurt, though a stop was put to the work for the present. This unlucky accident happened about 4 in the afternoon, when the Patriot, then at her moorings, discharging a cargo of stones, was immediately dispatched to Arbroath with the broken shaft, where she arrived about 2 o’clock on Sunday morning. The writer was at this early hour rather alarmed, by Captain Macdonald knocking at his bed-room door, and calling out in a hollow tone, “that the Balance-crane had given way.” An express was immediately sent for Mr James Dove, who, only two days prior to the accident, had left the Bell Rock, and was in the neighbourhood of Arbroath, and when the messenger reached him, he was preparing to go with his friends to the church of his native parish.

The Writer is welcomed in at the door of the Light-house.

The shaft of this crane consisted of four hollow pipes of cast iron, in lengths, the lower one of 8 feet, and the three upper ones of 6 feet, fitted to each other with a flush or square joint, so that the body of the crane might traverse upon them without interruption, as will be understood by examining Plate XVII. There was, unavoidably, a degree of weakness at these joints, which required considerable precaution in shifting or adjusting the balance-weight, according to the strain occasioned by a heavy stone. This accident, though speedily repaired, produced a delay of no less than three days to the building operations, which, together with the time occupied in making provision for a new method of inserting the door-hinges into the building, made this part of the masonry, upon the whole, appear extremely tedious. Having got the door-lintel laid, the writer was not a little gratified on being welcomed, with acclamation, in at the Door of the Bell Rock Light-house. Limited as the height of the building still was, the formation of the door stamped a new character upon it, and the lintel gave it an additional appearance of strength.

Fixtures of the hinges of the door and window-shutters.

The fixtures of the hinges of the door and shutters of the windows are of a peculiar construction, as will be seen in the different diagrams of Plate XIX. They consisted of boxes or cases made of brass, of a dovetailed form, measuring 16 inches in length, and 1 inch in depth in the void; one of these cases was inserted into a cavity cut in the upper bed of one of the rybat-stones on each side of the door or window, and run up with melted lead. Into this case the dovetail-end of the hinge was afterwards introduced, and fixed in its place by driving a middle-piece, after the manner of a Lewis-bat. The advantage of this method is, that, in the event of its being found necessary, at any future period, to renew or repair a hinge, all that becomes necessary is to draw the middle-piece and extract the Lewis from the box, without requiring to cut or mangle the building, as would be found necessary by the usual method of inserting hinges into walls. The hinges and cases were made of fine brass; those for the door weighing 50 lb., and those for the window-shutters being smaller, weighed about half as much.

1810, June.

Friday, 1st.

The weather, during the last week of the month of May, was very favourable for the operations; and the barometer stood to-day at no less than 30 inches and 42 hundred parts. The wind was S.E., and the atmosphere somewhat foggy, but not such as to prevent the landing operations from going forward. The Patriot was now at her moorings discharging; and the landing-master’s crew transported one of the praam-boats to the Rock with 14 stones, which enabled the builders to complete the Thirty-third course, being the one immediately above the door-lintel, consisting of 32 stones.

Saturday, 2d.

Shipping makes great dispatch.

The weather still continuing to be extremely fine, the landing-master and his crew left the Tender at 4 A. M., and proceeded to deliver the remainder of the Patriot’s cargo, consisting of 14 stones, with a proportion of pozzolano, lime, sand, and Roman cement, together with six bundles of trenails and wedges. She then made sail for Arbroath, and the Smeaton at the same time arrived with the Thirty-fourth course, consisting also of 32 stones. She had previously put a new cable on board of the Floating-light, this being the period at which her winter-tackle was annually shifted. The Smeaton got to her moorings at 11 A. M., when Captain Wilson and his crew immediately proceeded to deliver her, and by 4 in the afternoon she was cleared, and had sailed again for Arbroath to load, having thus been discharged in five hours, being the shortest period in which any cargo had hitherto been delivered at the Bell Rock. This formed a striking contrast with the delivery of the first cargo of the season, which had been on board from the 18th till the 29th of May, or eleven days, in the course of which the Smeaton was put thrice into Arbroath, and once up to Leith Roads, shewing how very dependent these works are upon the state of the weather. To-day there were no fewer than 56 pieces of stones transported to the Rock, being the greatest number hitherto landed in one day.

Sunday, 3d.

Patriot makes a trip in 33 hours.

The dispatch given in the loading department at Arbroath was nothing short of that of the landing at the Rock. The Patriot only got to the Light-house loading-birth last night at 11 P. M., when Mr Kennedy commenced loading her at midnight, with 34 pieces of stone, 9 stone joggles, two casks of pozzolano, two casks of lime, two casks of sand, and three bundles of trenails and wedges: she sailed again at 4 A. M., and got fast to her moorings at 5 in the afternoon, having been absent from the Rock only 33 hours. The landing-master’s crew towed the Hedderwick praam-boat alongside, and loaded her with 18 pieces of stone, which were safely landed on the Rock. At 11 P. M. the boats returned to the Tender, having been at work since 4 o’clock this morning. The weather was so inviting at this time, that, contrary to usual practice, a quantity of the stones was laid upon the Rock round the western side of the building, which were afterwards raised by the purchase-tackle on the bridge: the building was thus continued for a longer period than the tide permitted the landing-master’s crew to proceed with their operations. Some risk, however, attended this arrangement, as part of the stones were necessarily left on the Rock, exposed to the wash of the sea, from one tide to another. But the workmen being now permanently on the Rock, this could scarcely happen to a great extent, as the sea generally takes a tide or two to get into so rough a state as to be dangerous in cases of this kind. The Thirty-fifth course was laid to-day, consisting of 32 pieces of stone; but it required the work to be continued from 5 in the morning till 8 in the evening, before the trenailing, wedging, and grouting with mortar, were completed; the artificers having of course pay for their extra hours.

Monday, 4th.

Thirty-sixth course laid.

To-day there was a strong breeze of wind from the east, with hazy weather, but, as the mercury still maintained the high state of 30.32, every confidence was felt in the landing operations. The Patriot was accordingly discharged of the remainder of her cargo, and 16 stones, with other building materials, were landed on the Rock, though not without considerable difficulty, from the heavy swell of sea which was running upon it. The artificers also succeeded in building all the stones which were on the Rock, and finished the Thirty-sixth course, consisting of 24 blocks.

The King’s birth-day observed.

This being the Birth-day of our much revered Sovereign King George III., now in the Fiftieth year of his reign, the shipping of the Light-house service were this morning decorated with colours according to the taste of their respective captains. Flags were also hoisted upon the Beacon-house and Balance-crane on the top of the Building. At 12 noon, a salute was fired from the Tender, when the King’s health was drunk, with all the honours, both on the Rock, and on board of the shipping.

Tuesday, 5th.

Stair-case completed.

Rate of Wages.

The weather still continuing very favourable for the operations, the work proceeded with much regularity and dispatch. Twenty stones were landed to-day from the Smeaton, and the artificers completed the Thirty-eighth or finishing course of the staircase, which brought the building to the height of 45 feet. As the walls were here reduced from 5 feet 9 inches to 3 feet 2 inches in thickness, the scarsement at the level of this course formed a kind of floor or bench 2 feet 7 inches in breadth, at the top of the staircase, intended for keeping the water-cisterns, fuel, and provisions. The laying of this course being attended with a good deal of additional trouble, the artificers were occupied with it from 5 o’clock in the morning till 8 in the evening, when all hands being collected on the building, three hearty cheers were given, and a dram served out, at the completion of the first floor. During this season, nine hours were counted a day’s work at the Bell Rock, instead of three hours of tide-work, as in the early stages of the business. The artificers having, therefore, had six extra hours to-day, at the rate of 6d. per hour, each had 3s. per day to receive, in addition to his stated wages of 3s. 4d.; and, as the work was continued on Sundays, they were now making upwards of two guineas per week, free of incumbrance, while the foremen were in the receipt of about double that sum. The inhabitants of the Beacon were consequently in great spirits, both at the satisfactory progress of the work, and at the amount of their extra wages.

Progress of the Works at Edinburgh.

While the work thus proceeded at the Bell Rock, it was making also good progress at Arbroath, as the whole of the courses, excepting three, were now ready for shipping to the Rock. Advice was also received from Edinburgh, that the Light-room Reflecting-apparatus and Revolving-machinery were getting regularly forward, so that every prospect was afforded of the work being brought to a conclusion in the course of the season.

Artificers liable to accident. Small Boat and Life-buoy provided.

As the Light-house advanced in height, the cubical contents of the stones were less, but they had to be raised to a greater height; and the walls being thinner were less commodious for the necessary machinery, and the artificers employed, which considerably retarded the work. Inconvenience was also occasionally experienced from the men dropping their coats, hats, mallets, and other tools, at high-water, which were carried away by the tide; and the danger to the people themselves was now greatly increased. Had any of them fallen from the Beacon or Building at high-water, while the landing-master’s crew were generally engaged with the craft at a distance, it must have rendered the accident doubly painful to those on the Rock, who at this time had no boat, and consequently no means of rendering immediate and prompt assistance. In such cases, it would have been too late to have got a boat by signal from the Tender. A small boat, which could be lowered at pleasure, was therefore suspended by a pair of davits projected from the cook-house, the keel being about 30 feet from the Rock, as will be seen from Plate VIII. This boat, with its tackle, was put under the charge of James Glen, of whose exertions on the Beacon mention has already been made, and who having in early life been a seaman, was also very expert in the management of a boat. A life-buoy was likewise suspended from the bridge, to which a coil of line 200 fathoms in length was attached, which could be let out to a person falling into the water, or to the people in the boat, should they not be able to work her with the oars.

Wednesday, 6th.

Trenailing the Stones discontinued.

The landing-master succeeded to-day in transporting 44 stones to the Rock, and the artificers laid the Thirty-eighth course, which consisted of 16 blocks. The trenailing and wedging of the stones being now discontinued, as the building was above the ordinary range of the sea, a great relief was instantly felt, as will be understood from examining the several courses in Plate XIII.; and as the work was thereby much simplified, it was now expected that two courses might be laid per day.

Thursday, 7th.

Number of people on the Beacon. Fitting of window-hinges troublesome.

To-day 12 stones were landed on the Rock, being the remainder of the Patriot’s cargo; and the artificers built the Thirty-ninth course, consisting of 14 stones. The Bell Rock works had now a very busy appearance, as the Light-house was daily getting more into form. Besides the artificers and their cook, the writer and his servant were also lodged on the Beacon, counting in all twenty-nine; and at low-water the landing-master’s crew, consisting of from twelve to fifteen seamen, were employed in transporting the building materials, working the landing apparatus on the Rock, and dragging the stone-waggons along the railways, of which an idea will be formed by examining Plate XVIII. There were 27 stones discharged to-day from the Smeaton; and the artificers laid the Fortieth course of the building, in which the windows of the water, fuel, and provision store-room occur. The fitting of the hinge-boxes for the window storm-shutters, occupied a considerable portion of time, as has already been described in allusion to the entrance-door.

Friday, 8th.

The comfort of good weather on the Rock.

In the course of this day the weather varied much. In the morning it was calm; in the middle part of the day there were light airs of wind from the south, and in the evening fresh breezes from the east. The barometer in the writer’s cabin in the Beacon-house oscillated from 30 inches to 30.42, and the weather was extremely pleasant. This, in any situation, forms one of the chief comforts of life, but, as may easily be conceived, it was doubly so to people stuck as it were upon a pinnacle in the middle of the ocean.

Saturday, 9th.

Balance-crane shifted to-day.

The weather continued to be very agreeable, and ships every where seen upon the sea. At the Bell Rock we had only the Tender and the Floating-light, the Smeaton and Patriot being at Arbroath. The Dickie praam-boat was brought from her moorings this morning, when 9 stones were landed. The artificers were chiefly occupied to-day, in shifting the balance-crane from the top of the solid, to the top of the staircase, across which it was supported on strong beams, while struts were projected under the body of the crane, and butting against the interior of the walls of the building, as will be understood by examining the third year’s work of Plate IX. The balance-crane was, however, so constructed, that its foot might have been allowed to rest upon the solid of the building throughout the whole operation, and the shaft lengthened as the building rose, by adding additional pieces, till the whole of the masonry was completed, which would have formed a length of shaft extending to 50 feet. It was, however, found, upon the whole, to be more convenient and economical to lift the crane from floor to floor as the work advanced.

Sunday, 10th.

Crane erected at western Wharf.

Although stones had hitherto been occasionally landed on the western, as well as the eastern side of the Bell Rock, according to the state of the weather; yet, as the railways and apparatus of the eastern creek were much sooner in a working condition than those of the other, and being only 90 feet from the Light-house, while the western Railway extended to 290 feet in length, as will be seen from Plates VI. and XVIII., the eastern creek was generally used in all directions of the wind, when the weather was moderate. To-day, however, the wharf at the western creek had been completed to its full extent, and one of the moveable-beam cranes was erected at it, upon a piece of frame-work constructed of Norway logs, forming also a platform employed in landing the stones.

Two stones upset by the Sea.

In the course of last night, the wind had blown pretty strongly from the S.E., and towards morning it shifted to the S.W., which created a considerable swell of sea. Owing to the time unavoidably occupied in the shifting the balance-crane, and fitting the brass cases for the Lewis-bat hinges of the window-shutters of the provision-store, together with the eagerness, and even impatience of Captain Wilson, the landing-master, on all occasions, to get his part of the business accomplished by the speedy delivery of the stone-vessels, he had landed both the Thirty-first and Thirty-second courses, which were thus piled in rather too great a number at the western side of the building. During the night, though the range of the sea was considered trifling, yet it had upset two of the stones, which, when the tide left the Rock, were found lying at some distance with the Lewis-bats turned downwards. These two courses, being too much at the mercy of the waves, were raised to their places on the building, and, though not laid with mortar for the present, were, nevertheless, out of the reach of heavy seas, and more at the command of the artificers.

A Praam boat is sent from the Rock with her cargo.

Although the praam-boats, from their built, and the construction of their moorings, rode easily with a cargo on deck, as formerly noticed, yet a certain risk also attended this state of things, and the writer rather wished the Smeaton and Patriot to remain at their station, with the stones on board, until an opportunity was afforded of landing and getting them at once laid in their places upon the building. One of the praam-boats had, however, been brought to the Rock with 11 stones, notwithstanding the perplexity which attended the getting of those formerly landed taken up to the building. Mr Peter Logan, the foreman builder, interposed, and prevented this cargo from being delivered, but the landing-master’s crew were exceedingly averse to this arrangement, from an idea that “ill luck” would in future attend the Praam, her cargo, and those who navigated her, from thus reversing her voyage. It may be noticed, that this was the first instance of a Praam-boat having been sent from the Bell Rock with any part of her cargo on board, and was considered so uncommon an occurrence, that it became a topic of conversation among the seamen and artificers.

At 1 P. M. the bell rung for prayers, which were read by the writer in the Beacon; after which the artificers went to dinner, and the work again commenced and was continued till 9.

Monday, 11th.

The first operation of the building-artificers this morning, was to lift the two courses laid on the top of the walls last night, and build them with mortar; some of the stones of the upper course, in the mean time, being stowed round the foot of the balance-crane. These two courses consisted each of 16 stones, besides the dove-tail joggles for connecting the perpendicular joints, as shewn in diagrams of Plate XIII. The landing-master’s crew proceeded this morning to discharge the Patriot, and having loaded the Hedderwick Praam-boat, she was towed to her moorings to remain until the stones could be received at the Rock. In the afternoon the Patriot sailed; and in the evening the Smeaton arrived from Arbroath with another cargo, bringing also letters, papers, provisions, water, and fuel for the Beacon.

Tuesday, 12th.

Stones sent from the Rock are safely landed.

To-day the stones formerly sent from the Rock were safely landed, notwithstanding the augury of the seamen, in consequence of their being sent away two days before. These, together with 14 dove-tail joggles, were immediately taken up to the top of the building, and laid, for the present, without mortar, on the top of the Thirty-fourth course.

Wednesday, 13th.

Floor of the Light-room flat laid.

The artificers were employed with the Forty-sixth course to-day, and in making preparations for laying the Forty-seventh, being the floor for the Light-room stores. In the afternoon and evening, the joiners were employed in fitting up a piece of frame-work, as a centre for supporting the interior ends of the stones composing the Floor course, which projected from the outward face of the building towards the centre of the apartment, as will be understood from Plates XIII. and XVI.

Mr John Reid has got leave ashore, after being three months afloat.

The Floating-light having got her winter cable on board, and being otherwise in good order, Mr John Reid, principal Light-keeper, and acting master, while Captain Wilson was employed at the Bell Rock, having been upwards of three months afloat, it was thought proper that he should now have liberty for a time on shore, that, in his turn, he might relieve Mr Wilson. Mr Taylor, commander of the Tender, accordingly went on board of the Floating-light, leaving the landing-master in charge of the Tender, along with his other duties at the Rock.

Thursday, 14th.

To-day 27 stones and 11 joggle-pieces were landed, part of which consisted of the Forty-seventh course, forming the store-room floor. The builders were at work this morning by 4 o’clock, in the hopes of being able to accomplish the laying of the 18 stones of this course. But at 8 o’clock in the evening they had still two to lay, and as the stones of this course were very unwieldy, being 6 feet in length, they required much precaution and care both in lifting and laying them. It was, however, only on the writer’s suggestion to Mr Logan, that the artificers were induced to leave off, as they had intended to complete this floor before going to bed. The two remaining stones were, however, laid in their places without mortar, when the bell on the Beacon was rung, and all hands being collected on the top of the building, three hearty cheers were given on covering the first apartment. The steward then served out a dram to each, when the whole retired to their barrack much fatigued, but with the anticipation of the most perfect repose even in the “hurricane-house,” amidst the dashing seas on the Bell Rock.

First letter written from the Light-house.

While the workmen were at breakfast and dinner, it was the writer’s usual practice to spend his time on the walls of the building, which, notwithstanding the narrowness of the track, nevertheless formed his principal walk, when the Rock was under water. But this afternoon he had his writing-desk set upon the store-room floor, when he wrote to Mrs Stevenson, certainly the first letter dated from the Bell Rock Light-house, giving a detail of the fortunate progress of the work, with an assurance that the Light-house would soon be completed at the rate at which it now proceeded; and the Patriot having sailed for Arbroath in the evening, he felt no small degree of pleasure in dispatching this communication to his family.

Friday, 15th.

Floors of the Bell Rock and Edystone Light-houses.

The floor-courses of the Bell Rock Light-house lay horizontally upon the walls, as will be seen from the sections in Plates VII. and XVI. They consisted in all of 18 blocks, but only 16 were laid in the first instance, as the centre-stone were necessarily left out, to allow the shaft of the balance-crane to pass through the several apartments of the building. In the same manner also, the stone which formed the interior side of the man-hole, was not laid till after the centre stone was in its place, and the masonry of the walls completed. The number of stones above alluded to are independently of the sixteen joggle pieces with which the principal blocks of the floors were connected, as shewn in the diagrams of Plates VII. and XIII. The floors of the Edystone Light-house, on the contrary, were constructed of an arch-form, and the haunches of the arches bound with chains, to prevent their pressing outward, to the injury of the walls. In this, Mr Smeaton followed the construction of the Dome of St Paul’s; and this mode might also be found necessary at the Edystone, from the want of stones in one length, to form the outward wall and floor, in the then state of the granite quarries of Cornwall. At Mylnefield Quarry, however, there was no difficulty in procuring stones of the requisite dimensions; and the writer foresaw many advantages that would arise, from having the stones of the floors to form part of the outward walls without introducing the system of arching: in particular, the pressure of the floors upon the walls would thus be perpendicular; for, as the stones were prepared in the sides, with groove-and-feather, after the manner of the common house-floor, they would, by this means, form so many girths, binding the exterior walls together, as will be understood by examining the diagrams and section of Plate VII., with its letter-press description; agreeably to which he had modelled the floors in his original designs for the Bell Rock, which were laid before the Light-house Board in the year 1800.

31 Persons lodged in the Beacon-house.

Pay and Premiums at the Rock.

The weather still continuing favourable for the operations at the Rock, the work proceeded with much energy, through the exertions both of the seamen and artificers. For the more speedy and effectual working of the several tackles, in raising the materials as the building advanced in height, and there being a great extent of Railway to attend to, which, required constant repairs, two additional mill-wrights were added to the complement on the Rock, which, including the writer, now counted thirty-one in all. So crowded was the men’s barrack, that the beds were ranged five tier in height, allowing only about 1 foot 8 inches for each bed, while the greatest extent of floor-room measured only about 8 feet 6 inches across, between the beds on opposite sides, as will be seen in the sections and diagrams of Plate VIII. The artificers commenced this morning at 5 o’clock, and, in the course of the day, they laid the Forty-eighth and Forty-ninth courses, consisting each of 16 blocks. From the favourable state of the weather, and the regular manner in which the work now proceeded, the artificers had generally from four to seven extra hours’ work, which, including their stated wages of 3s. 4d., yielded them from 5s. 4d. to about 6s. 10d. per day, besides their board; even the postage of their letters was paid while they were at the Bell Rock. In these advantages, the foremen also shared, having about double the pay and amount of premiums of the artificers. The seamen being less out of their element in the Bell Rock operations than the landsmen, their premiums consisted in a slump sum, payable at the end of the season, which extended from three to ten guineas.

Seamen find one of the lost sets of moorings.

As the laying of the floors was somewhat tedious, the landing-master and his crew had got considerably beforehand with the building artificers in bringing materials faster to the Rock than they could be built. The seamen having, therefore, some spare time, were occasionally employed, during fine weather, in dredging or grappling for the several mushroom-anchors and mooring-chains, which had been lost in the vicinity of the Bell Rock, during the progress of the work, by the breaking loose and drifting of the floating-buoys. To encourage their exertions in this search, Five Guineas were offered as a premium for each set they should find; and after much patient application, they succeeded to-day in hooking one of these lost anchors with its chain.

Experiment of collecting Gas from Fishes.

It was a general remark at the Bell Rock, as before noticed, that fish were never plenty in its neighbourhood, excepting in good weather. Indeed, the seamen used to speculate about the state of the weather from their success in fishing. When the fish disappeared at the Rock, it was considered a sure indication that a gale was not far off, as the fish seemed to seek shelter in deeper water, from the roughness of the sea, during these changes of the weather. At this time, the Rock, at high-water, was completely covered with podlies, or the fry of the coalfish, about six or eight inches in length. The artificers sometimes occupied half an hour after breakfast and dinner in catching these little fishes, but were more frequently supplied from the boats of the Tender. This evening the landing-master’s crew brought to the Rock a quantity of newly caught codfish, measuring from 15 to 24 inches in length. The membrane called the sound, which is attached to the back-bone of fishes, being understood to contain, at different times, greater portions of azote and of oxygen than common air, the present favourable opportunity was embraced for collecting a quantity of this gas in a drinking-glass, inverted into a pail of salt-water. The fish being held under this glass as a receiver, their bladders were punctured, and a considerable quantity of gas was thus collected. A lighted match was afterwards carefully introduced into the glass, when the gas exhibited in a considerable degree the bright and luminous flame which an excess of oxygen is known to produce.

Saturday, 16th.

Cause of ground swells.

The weather was hazy, and the wind had shifted to-day from west to east, accompanied with a heavy ground-swell in the sea. At the Bell Rock, this was sometimes observed to be the precursor of a gale, while, on other occasions, the swell did not make its appearance till the force of the wind had ceased. Many speculations have been made by naturalists upon the probable cause of ground-swells, so often observed by seamen, and which sometimes appear even without the accompaniment of wind, either before or after. To account for this, it may be noticed, that the waters of the German Ocean or North Sea, from their connection with the Atlantic Ocean, are often affected by gales of westerly winds, which never reach our shores, though they have the effect of forcing an undue portion of the waters of the Atlantic into the British seas, which tend to overfill all the friths and bays, producing the phenomenon of a ground-swell;—a condition of things which may also be supposed to follow from the account given of the gale experienced by the writer off Flamborough-head, on the 19th September 1809, described at page 320.; which might as readily have been checked in its progress, by the contrary wind, before it reached the northern shores, as off the coast of England. This subject is further illustrated by the writer in a paper read before the Wernerian Society, on the bed of the German Ocean, and given in the Appendix, No. V.

Landing-master’s dress, and activity of his crew.

The landing-master having this day discharged the Smeaton, and loaded the Hedderwick and Dickie praam-boats with 19 stones, they were towed to their respective moorings; when Captain Wilson, in consequence of the heavy swell of sea, came in his boat to the Beacon-house, to consult with the writer as to the propriety of venturing the loaded praam-boats with their cargoes to the Rock, while so much sea was running. After some dubiety expressed on the subject, in which the ardent mind of the landing-master suggested many arguments in favour of his being able to convey the praams in perfect safety, it was acceded to. In bad weather, and especially on occasions of difficulty like the present, Mr Wilson, who was an extremely active seaman, measuring about 5 feet 3 inches in height, of a robust habit, generally dressed himself in what he called a Monkey Jacket, made of thick duffle-cloth, with a pair of Dutchman’s petticoat-trowsers, reaching only to his knees, where they were met with a pair of long water-tight boots; with this dress, his glazed hat, and his small brass speaking-trumpet in his hand, he bade defiance to the weather. When he made his appearance in this most suitable attire for the service, his crew seemed to possess additional life, never failing to use their utmost exertions when the captain put on his “storm-rigging.” They had this morning commenced loading the praam-boats at 4 o’clock, and proceeded to tow them into the eastern landing-place, which was accomplished with much dexterity, though not without the risk of being thrown, by the force of the sea, on certain projecting ledges of the rock. In such a case, the loss even of a single stone would have greatly retarded the work. For the greater safety in entering this creek, it was necessary to put out several warps and guy-ropes, to guide the boats into its narrow and intricate entrance; and it frequently happened that the sea made a clean breach over the praams, which not only washed their decks, but completely drenched the crew in water.

Want of the western wharf.

On this, as on many other occasions, the want of the western wharf was particularly felt; for, although it had long been used with great advantage in the ordinary traffic of the Rock, and was now carried to its full extent, it was still not fit for all the purposes of landing weighty materials, otherwise the landing operations would have been accomplished with much more ease and facility to-day. So much, however, had been to do in boring the rock, inserting iron-bats and other operations, accessible only at the lowest tides, that, although Mr Watt and his squad of artificers had embraced every opportunity, by day and night,—for this work to the last was carried on by torch light,—yet the wharf of the western railway was not entirely completed.

Operation of shifting the Balance-crane. Its properties.

The building-artificers were employed to-day in raising the Balance-crane to the light-room-store, where it was supported upon two beams of oaken timber, which were made to rest upon the outward extremity of the floor, or close to the wall of the house. The removal of the crane from one storey to another was attended with considerable trouble. The body of the crane, as will be understood by examining Plates IX. and XVII., was raised upon the shaft at every two or three courses which were added to the height of the building. This mode might have been continued throughout, without once raising the foot of the crane, by simply adding to the length of the shaft. But, all things taken into view, it was considered preferable to lift the whole machine from floor to floor. This was accomplished in the following manner: Two beams of fir-timber were laid across the walls of the house, on which the body of the crane was rested. This new position did not prevent the purchase-tackle of the crane from being worked, and it was therefore applied to lift the foot and the four lengths of the shaft, which were laid aside till successively wanted in the course of building. The foot, with two lengths of the shaft, being placed upon the oaken beams above alluded to; a cutter or spear-bolt was passed through one of the numerous holes in the shaft; when the beams on which the body of the crane rested on the walls being removed, the crane was again in a complete working condition. The Balance-crane had therefore the property of being applicable to raising itself, from stage to stage, as well as of laying the stones, and preserving its equilibrium when loaded. In case, through inattention or accident, an undue proportion of weight had been brought upon one end of the beam of the crane, as was the case when the door-lintel was laid, four spurs or diagonal supports of oak, were attached to the shaft, the lower ends of which rested upon the floor and butted against the wall, while the upper ends fitted into a collar or circular piece of cast-iron, which embraced the shaft immediately under the body of the crane. These preparatory operations occupied a great part of this day, after which there was no further delay occasioned by the Balance-crane, till it was again to be raised to the next floor, except the occasional lifting of the body, and applying additional lengths to the shaft, as the building rose, things which were accomplished without retarding the work.

Sunday, 17th.

Western wharf finished to-day.

It was fortunate, in the present state of the weather, that the Fiftieth course was in a sheltered spot, within the reach of the tackle of the winch-machine upon the bridge; a few stones were stowed upon the bridge itself, and the remainder upon the building, which kept the artificers at work. The stowing of the materials upon the Rock, was the department of Alexander Brebner, mason, who spared no pains in attending to the safety of the stones, and who, in the present state of the work, when the stones were landed faster than could be built, generally worked till the water rose to his middle. At 1 o’clock to-day the bell rung for prayers, and all hands were collected into the upper barrack-room of the Beacon-house, when the usual service was performed.

At low-water this afternoon all hands were employed in completing the western wharf,—a work which had now been in progress for a twelvemonth. One of the moveable-beam cranes was elevated on it, under a salute of three hearty cheers. This wharf was formed of timber, consisting of successive layers of Norway logs, like the Eastern Wharf, as represented in Plate XI., which were raised to the level of the Railways, or about 6 feet in height, and fixed down with bat-bars of iron, measuring 7 feet in length, having been sunk about 12 inches into the Rock.

Remarkable state of the sea at the Bell Rock to-day.

The wind blew very hard in the course of last night from N.E., and to-day the sea ran so high that no boat could approach the Rock. During the dinner-hour, when the writer was going to the top of the building as usual, but just as he had entered the door, and was about to ascend the ladder, a great noise was heard over-head, and in an instant he was soused in water, from a sea which had most unexpectedly come over the walls, though now about 58 feet in height. On making his retreat, he found himself completely whitened by the lime which had mixed with the water, while dashing down through the different floors; and, as nearly as he could guess, a quantity equal to about a hogshead had come over the walls, and now streamed out at the door. After having shifted himself, he again sat down in his cabin, the sea continuing to run so high that the builders did not resume their operations on the walls this afternoon. The incident just noticed, did not create more surprise in the mind of the writer, than the sublime appearance of the waves, as they rolled majestically over the Rock. This scene he greatly enjoyed while sitting at his cabin window: each wave approached the Beacon like a vast scroll unfolding; and, in passing, discharged a quantity of air, which he not only distinctly felt, but was even sufficient to lift the leaves of a book which lay before him. These waves might be 10 or 12 feet in height, and about 250 feet in length. Their smaller end being towards the north, where the water was deep, and they were opened or cut through by the interposition of the Building and Beacon. The gradual manner in which the sea, upon these occasions, is observed to become calm or to subside, is a very remarkable feature of this phenomenon. For example, when a gale is succeeded by a calm, every third or fourth wave forms one of these great seas, which occur in spaces, of from 3 to 5 minutes, as noted by the writer’s watch; but, in the course of the next tide, they become less frequent, and take off, so as to occur only in 10 or 15 minutes; and, singular enough, at the third tide after such gales, the writer has remarked, that only one or two of these great waves appear in the course of the whole tide.

Thursday, 21st.

Landing-master’s crew have now more leisure.

From Monday 18th till this date, the work went forward in the usual routine, and the building was now in readiness for the floor of the kitchen or third apartment. In the present state of things, the two stone-vessels Smeaton and Patriot, could not be fully employed, as, owing to the greater height of the building, every operation required much more time, in proportion to the tonnage which the vessels brought off to the Rock. Indeed, the original intention of providing two vessels for this department was chiefly to guard against accident, as, in this service, they were much exposed to danger, in the event of which, without a second vessel, the work must have been arrested in its progress. Having now also the full use of the western creek, the process of landing was seldom delayed, excepting from want of demand on the part of the builders; it was still, nevertheless, necessary to keep up the establishment of shipping, for the reason above stated.

Disagreeable state of the weather.

The 19th was a very unpleasant and disagreeable day, both for the seamen and artificers, as it rained throughout with little intermission from 4 A. M. till 11 P. M., accompanied with thunder and lightning, during which period the work nevertheless continued unremittingly; and the builders laid the Fifty-first and Fifty-second courses. This state of weather was no less severe upon the mortar-makers, who required to temper or prepare the mortar of a thicker or thinner consistency, in some measure, according to the state of the weather. From the elevated position of the building, the mortar-gallery on the Beacon was now much lower, and the lime buckets were made to traverse upon a rope distended between it and the building, as will be seen from Plate IX. On occasions like the present, however, there was often a difference of opinion between the builders and the mortar-makers. John Watt, who had the principal charge of the mortar, was a most active worker, but being somewhat of an irascible temper, the builders occasionally amused themselves at his expence. For, while he was eagerly at work with his large iron-shod pestle in the mortar-tub, they often sent down contradictory orders, some crying, “Make it a little stiffer, or thicker, John,” while others called out to make it “thinner;” to which he generally returned very speedy and sharp replies; so that these conversations at times were rather amusing. The brass cases of the upper-hinges of the window of this apartment, occurring in the Fifty-second course, occasioned a good deal of detention, on the 20th, in laying it, when the artificers were employed from 4 in the morning till 9 in the evening.