Chapter IV · (continued 2)

Artificers sail for the Rock.

The writer sailed from Arbroath in the evening of the 6th of June in the Tender, with a fine breeze of northerly wind, having on board 34 artificers, consisting of masons, smiths, mill-wrights and joiners, besides the landing master’s crew, consisting of twelve seamen, who worked the ship. There were also on board Mr Peter Logan, foreman builder; Mr Francis Watt, foreman mill-wright; Mr James Dove, foreman smith; Mr James Wilson, landing master; Mr David Taylor, master; Mr William Reid, mate, and Mr John Peters, steward, counting in all fifty-four persons. The weather was clear, and the vessel had no sooner got out of the harbour, than the lights of the float were distinctly seen; and before day-break, the Tender was made fast to her moorings off the Bell Rock.

Tuesday, 7th.

Arrangements at landing at an early hour on the Rock.

At 3 o’clock in the morning, the ship’s bell was rung as the signal for landing at the Rock. These artificers, to which this had been the first trip, found their quarters rather confined in the ship, and some of them being sickly, were glad of an opportunity of landing, and came almost immediately upon deck, notwithstanding the earliness of the hour at which the tide happened. But those who were more accustomed to the business, calculated their time, knowing that sufficient warning was always given, especially at hours so early. When the landing was to be made before breakfast, it was customary to give each of the artificers and seamen a dram and a biscuit, and coffee was prepared by the steward for the cabins. Exactly at 4 o’clock, the whole party landed from three boats, including one of those belonging to the Floating-light, with a part of that ship’s crew, which always attended the works in moderate weather. The landing-master’s boat called the Seaman, but more commonly the Life-boat, took the lead. The next boat called the Mason, was generally, steered by the writer; while the Floating-light’s boat Pharos, was under the management of the boatswain of that ship.

How the Artificers are employed.

Having now so considerable a party of workmen and sailors on the Rock, it may be proper here to notice how their labours were directed. Preparations having been made last month for the erection of a second forge upon the beacon, the smiths commenced their operations, both upon the lower and higher platforms, where forges had been erected. They were employed in sharpening the picks and irons for the masons, and in making bats and other apparatus of various descriptions, connected with the fitting of the railways. The landing-master’s crew were occupied in assisting the mill-wrights in laying the railways to hand. Sailors, of all other descriptions of men, are the most accommodating in the use of their hands. They worked freely with the boring irons, and assisted in all the operations of the railways, acting by turns as boatmen, seamen, and artificers. We had no such character on the Bell Rock as the common labourer. All the operations of this department were cheerfully undertaken by the seamen, who, both on the rock and on ship-board, were the inseparable companions of every work connected with the erection of the Bell Rock Light-house. It will naturally be supposed, that about twenty-five masons, occupied with their picks in executing and preparing the foundation of the light-house, in the course of a tide of about three hours, would make a considerable impression upon an area even of forty-two feet in diameter. But in proportion as the foundation was deepened, the rock was found to be much more hard and difficult to work, while the baling and pumping of water became much more troublesome. A joiner was kept almost constantly employed in fitting the picks to their handles, which, as well as the points of the irons, were very frequently broken. At 8 o’clock, the water overflowed the site of the building, and the boats left the rock with all hands for breakfast. Several of the artificers would willingly have remained upon the beacon to avoid the rolling motion and sickness incident to the ship; yet, being all wetted, and those especially who were employed in excavating the site of the light-house and railways, being completely bespattered with the chips and particles elicited from the Rock, the whole party embarked in the boats; but such as chose were at liberty to return to the beacon with the smiths after breakfast.

Interesting appearance of the Rock.

Excepting at the erection of the principal beams of the beacon, the Bell Rock this morning presented by far the most busy and active appearance it had exhibited since the erection of the Beacon. The surface of the Rock was crowded with men, the two forges flaming, the one above the other, upon the Beacon, while the anvils thundered with the rebounding noise of their wooden supports, and formed a curious contrast with the occasional clamour of the surges. The wind was westerly to-day, and the weather being extremely agreeable, as soon after breakfast as the tide had sufficiently overflowed the rock to float the boats over it, the smiths, with a number of the artificers, returned to the Beacon, carrying their fishing-tackle along with them, which had all been put in a state of requisition before they left the shore. In the course of the forenoon, the Beacon exhibited a still more extraordinary appearance than the Rock had done in the morning. The sea being smooth, it seemed to be afloat upon the water, with a number of men supporting themselves in all the variety of attitude and position; while, from the upper part of this wooden house, the volumes of smoke which ascended from the forges, gave the whole a very curious and fanciful appearance.

Artificers remain on the rock all day.

The length of the day now afforded two tides with day-light. The boats, therefore, landed the artificers at 5 o’clock P. M., and after three hours’ work, as in the morning, all hands again left it at 8 o’clock, and returned on board of the Tender. Those who had been left upon the beacon, complained of being very tired, with supporting themselves so long in one position without motion, or even a sufficient space to rest their feet upon.

From the excellence of the weather, and for the greater conveniency of the work, the Tender had been made fast to one of the Stone-lighter’s floating buoys, to be nearer to the Rock than her own moorings, which were placed at such a distance as might enable her, in casting off, to clear the Rock on any tack. But, in the course of this tide, it was observed that a heavy swell was setting in from the eastward; and the appearance of the sky indicated a change of weather, while the wind was shifting about. The barometer also had fallen from 30 to 29.60. It was therefore judged prudent to shift the vessel to the SW. or more distant buoy. Her bowsprit was also soon afterwards taken in, the top-masts struck, and every thing made snug, as seamen term it, for a gale. During the course of the night, the wind increased and shifted to the eastward, when the vessel rolled very hard, and the sea often broke over her bows with great force.

Wednesday, 8th.

Tender bears away for Leith Roads.

Although the motion of the Tender was much less than that of the Floating-light, at least in regard to the rolling motion; yet, she sended or pitched much. Being also of a very handsome build, and what seamen term very clean aft, the sea often struck her counter with such force, that the writer, who possessed the aftermost cabin, being unaccustomed to this new vessel, could not divest himself of uneasiness; for, when her stern fell into the sea, it struck with so much violence, as to be more like the resistance of a rock than the sea. The water, at the same time, often rushed with great force up the rudder-case; and forcing up the valve of the water-closet, the floor of his cabin was at times laid under water. The gale continued to increase, and the vessel rolled and pitched in such a manner, that the hawser by which the Tender was made fast to the buoy snapped, and she went adrift. In the act of swinging round to the wind, she shipped a very heavy sea, which greatly alarmed the artificers, who imagined that we had got upon the Rock. But this, from the direction of the wind, was impossible. The writer, however, sprung upon deck, where he found the sailors busily employed in rigging out the bowsprit, and in setting sail. From the easterly direction of the wind, it was considered most advisable to steer for the Firth of Forth, and there wait a change of weather. At 2 P. M. we accordingly passed the Isle of May; at 6 anchored in Leith Roads, and at 8 the writer landed, when he came in upon his friends, who were not a little surprised at his unexpected appearance, which gave an instantaneous alarm for the safety of things at the Bell Rock.

Wednesday, 9th.

The wind still continued to blow very hard at E. by N., and the Sir Joseph Banks rode heavily, and even drifted with both anchors ahead, in Leith Roads. The artificers did not attempt to leave the ship last night; but there being upwards of fifty-people on board, and the decks greatly lumbered with the two large boats, they were in a very crowded and impatient state on board. But to-day they got ashore, and amused themselves by walking about the streets of Edinburgh, some in very humble apparel, from having only the worst of their jackets with them, which, though quite suitable for their work, were hardly fit for public inspection, being not only tattered, but greatly stained with the red colour of the rock.

Friday, 10th.

To-day the wind was at S. E., with light breezes and foggy weather. At 6 A. M. the writer again embarked for the Bell Rock, when the vessel immediately sailed. At 11 P. M., there being no wind, the kedge-anchor was let go off Anstruther, one of the numerous towns on the coast of Fife, where we waited the return of the tide.

Saturday, 11th.

Before leaving Leith Roads, the muster-roll was called, to see that all hands were on board; and we also shipped an additional seaman. The vessel, therefore, required a great stock of provisions and water, and, from her very hampered situation, with the stores and apparatus of various kinds which she had on board, it became necessary to embrace every opportunity of filling up the stock of water, as landsmen use a much greater quantity of that indispensable article for every purpose than seamen. Mr Taylor, who commanded the Tender, and whose attention in this respect was quite indefatigable, sent the boat ashore at Anstruther, at a very early hour this morning, for an additional supply.

Work continued on the Rock till midnight.

Throughout these twenty-four hours, the winds were variable and the weather was hazy. At 6 A. M. the Sir Joseph got under weigh, and at 11 was again made fast to the southern buoy at the Bell Rock. Though it was now late in the tide, the writer being anxious to ascertain the state of things after the gale, landed with the artificers, to the number of forty-four. Every thing was found in an entire state; but, as the tide was nearly gone, only half an hour’s work had been got when the site of the building was overflowed. During the period of high-water, the boats were employed in bringing stores and provisions from on board the Smeaton, which had also returned from Arbroath, whither she had run for shelter. In the evening the boats again landed at 9, and, after a good tide’s-work of three hours, with torch-light, the work was left off at midnight.

Appearance of the Rock at night.

To the distant shipping, the appearance of things under night on the Bell Rock, when the work was going forward, must have been very remarkable, especially to those who were strangers to the operations. Mr John Reid, principal light-keeper, who also acted as master of the Floating-light during the working months at the rock, described the appearance of the numerous lights situate so low in the water, when seen at the distance of two or three miles, as putting him in mind of Milton’s description of the fiends in the lower regions; adding, “for it seems greatly to surpass Will-o’-the-Wisp, or any of those earthly spectres of which we have so often heard.”

Sunday, 12th.

The weather was somewhat blowy to-day, and the wind veered from E. to S.W. The boats landed at a quarter past 9 this morning, but not without considerable difficulty, owing to a heavy swell of sea which accompanied the change of wind. After continuing at work for three hours and a half at the site of the building, and the fixtures for the railways, the water came in upon the artificers, and the boats left the rock with all hands, after having experienced some difficulty at the entrance of the eastern landing creek, by the breach of the sea. In this respect, the larger boats of the new Tender were not found to be so well adapted for pulling through a swell of sea in these narrow creeks, as the smaller boats of the Floating-light. The breadth of the former being greater, the oars were more apt to get entangled with the sea-weed and jutting points of the rock, so that it was with difficulty they could be equally pulled on each side; and if they did not exactly stem the sea, but got a preponderance to one side, the waves were apt to throw them upon the shelving rocks. Smaller boats, under these particular circumstances, would have been more handy, but of two evils we are often left to choose the least, and the larger boats were found to be more generally useful. For the conveniency of accommodating a greater number of artificers, it was necessary to have the boats of as large dimensions as the Tender could stow; it being hardly possible in this service to have more than two upon deck, and one over the stern.

Sixty persons on the quarter-deck at prayers to-day.

About 1 P.M. the boats returned to the Tender in safety; and prayers were soon afterwards read upon deck, when all hands, including the boats crews from the Floating-light and Smeaton, being present, they counted sixty individuals. Owing to the difficulty experienced in getting clear of the rock this morning, and the swell of the sea still continuing, a landing was not attempted in the evening.

Monday, 13th.

The wind blew fresh from the S.W. this morning, and the tides were again getting into the state of neap; yet the ebb was very considerable yesterday, and some parts of the rock were even dry about half an hour before the calculated time. The boats landed to-day at 11, and left the Rock again at half-past 2 o’clock P. M. The artificers were again landed in the evening, but the tide did not leave the foundation-pit. All hands, however, were employed on the higher parts of the rock, in the tracks of the railways, where bat-holes were to bore and seats for the cast-iron props or supports of the railways to level. After being employed in this manner for an hour and a half, the boats returned to the Tender.

Artificers appear backward in landing on the Rock to-day.

From the difficulties attending the landing on the rock, owing to the breach of sea which had for days past been around it, the artificers showed some backwardness at getting into the boats this morning; but after a little explanation this was got over. It was always observable, that for some time after any thing like danger had occurred at the Rock, the workmen became much more cautious, and on some occasions their timidity was rather troublesome. It fortunately happened, however, that, along with the writer’s assistants and the sailors, there were also some of the artificers themselves who felt no such scruples, and in this way these difficulties were the more easily surmounted. In matters where life is in danger, it becomes necessary to treat even unfounded prejudices with tenderness, as an accident, under certain circumstances, would not only have been particularly painful to those giving directions, but have proved highly detrimental to the work, especially in the early stages of its advancement.

Tuesday, 14th.

Tender sails for Arbroath.

The wind was at south this morning, accompanied with very heavy showers of rain; and though the boats effected a landing at 12 noon; yet, during the whole tide, there was not less depth than 15 inches of water on the highest part of the site of the building, while the sea was continually ranging into it. The artificers were, therefore, employed on the higher parts of the eastern railway-track. After an hour and three-quarters work, the boats returned to the Tender, which had already cast off from her moorings, and kept plying about till they left the rock with the artificers, when she immediately sailed for Arbroath, and got into the harbour at 6 P. M. Here the artificers were employed in the work-yard for six days, until the return of spring-tides. During this interval ashore, the smiths were busily employed in giving the picks and other tools a thorough repair. Every measure was also adopted that could possibly facilitate the fitting up of the railways, without the aid of which the blocks of stone could not possibly be conveyed along the rugged surface of the rock after they were landed.

First entire course removed from the platform.

The operations at the rock, both in the preparation of the foundation of the building, and in the fitting up of the railways for landing the materials, became more and more urgent as the work advanced ashore. The first course had now been removed from the platform, and the greater part of the second was laid in its place; and, in the course of three weeks, it was also expected to be in readiness to ship for the rock, while a number of the higher courses were in a considerable state of forwardness. Some of the Aberthaw limestone having been burnt, and reduced to a state of powder, it was put into casks, while equal quantities of pozzolano and clean sharp sand were also made up in the same manner, to be used in building up the inequalities on the south east or lowest part of the margin of the foundation-pit, that by this means the water might be more speedily pumped out, and a longer period of the tide obtained for carrying on the work.

Trial of the landing apparatus.

It being apparent, from the present state of things, that we should be ready for building in the course of the next spring-tides, if the weather proved favourable, it was necessary to have all the apparatus for landing the stones at the rock in a working state. While at Arbroath, the writer had a trial made of one of the new praams or stone-lighters, by towing her into the bay of Arbroath, with a large stone upon deck, where the sloop Smeaton had been previously anchored with her gaff-boom and tackle rigged. This experiment was made in pretty rough weather, when the block of stone was lifted with the tackle in and out of the Smeaton’s hold, and again placed on the praam’s deck, as was to be done in the operation of landing at the rock. The apparatus is represented in Plate XI., and the trial was highly satisfactory, the tackle requiring only some trifling alterations. The Smeaton was then brought into the harbour and trimmed with ballast, consisting of pieces of granite, neatly fitted into her hold, over which a platform was laid, which completed her for the service of taking the stones from Arbroath to the Bell Rock.

Monday, 20th.

Tender sails for the Rock.

Things on shore having been thus arranged, the writer again embarked on the 20th in the Sir Joseph Banks Tender, and sailed for the Bell Rock at 1 P. M., accompanied by the sloop Smeaton, and having on board of both vessels sixty-two artificers and seamen. At 8 the Floating-light was hailed, and at 9 the Tender and Smeaton were made fast to their respective buoys.

Tuesday, 21st.

Fifty-eight artificers land.

At 3 o’clock this morning, the bell was rung, as a signal for landing at the rock. From the number of artificers, it required considerable management and exertion on the part of the landing-master to get them properly seated in the four boats belonging to the Tender, the Smeaton, and Floating-light, which last attended the rock during the morning tides, and assisted in all the operations of the landing-master’s department. At 4 o’clock fifty-eight persons landed; but the tides being extremely languid, the water only left the higher parts of the rock, and no work could be done at the site of the building. A third forge was, however, put in operation, during a short time, for the greater conveniency of sharpening the picks and irons, and for purposes connected with the preparations for fixing the railways on the rock.

Advantage of a Bell as a signal at the Rock.

The weather towards the evening became thick and foggy, and there was hardly a breath of wind to ruffle the surface of the water; had it not therefore been the noise from the anvils of the smiths who had been left on the Beacon throughout the day, which afforded a guide for the boats, a landing could not have been attempted this evening, especially with such a company of artificers. This circumstance confirmed the writer’s opinion with regard to the propriety of connecting large bells to be rung with machinery in the light-house, to be tolled day and night during the continuance of foggy weather, by which the mariner may be forewarned of too near an approach to the Rock, while every distant object is obscured in the mist.

The tides went so little back at the Rock to-day, that no work was done excepting to the railways; it being impossible to pump the water out of the foundation-pit, as the tide never left the south-eastern margin of it. After remaining two hours, all hands returned towards the Tender, where guns were occasionally fired, horns sounded, and the ship’s bell tolled, as signals for the boats to find their way from the Rock to the vessels; and, in this manner, the whole party got safely on board about 8 o’clock P. M.

Wednesday, 22d.

At 6 A. M. the artificers landed, but the foundation could only be partially cleared of water, so as to enable a few hands, standing ankle-deep in water, to work round the edges where the site of the Light-house was highest. After two and a half hours’ work, the boats, with the artificers, returned to their respective ships.

Building materials landed for the first time this season.

This morning several casks of pozzolano, lime and sand were landed, to make mortar, in order to build round the lower edges of the foundation-pit. This being something like an approximation to the long wished-for commencement of building the Light-house, the artificers thought the opportunity too good to pass over in silence, and the casks were accordingly landed under a salute of three hearty cheers. At half past 6 P. M. the boats again landed upon the rock, but, even when the tide was at the lowest, the water stood to the depth of 18 inches upon the site of the building, and no work was done. This was rather a relief to the smiths, who having no irons to sharp, got rapidly forward with the necessary fixtures for the railways.

Thursday, 23d.

Small ruble walls built instead of cofferdam.

The weather continued to be extremely mild, and the winds were generally from the eastward and southward, accompanied with thick and hazy weather, which, in communicating with the rock, was not only irksome but even dangerous. At 7 o’clock this morning, the tide proving more favourable, the artificers began to work. At 9 the rock was again overflowed, and the boats returned to the Tender after two hours’ work. Part of the operations of this morning’s tide consisted in building up the crevices and inequalities of the rock round the margin of the foundation, with pozzolano mortar, and the chips produced from the excavation, with a view to dam out the water. These little walls varied from six inches to eighteen inches in height; a small sluice or aperture being formed in one of them by which the water, during ebb-tide, was allowed to drain off.

It formed part of the writer’s original design, as formerly noticed, to erect a cast-iron coffer-dam of about five feet in height, round the site of the building; but the surface of the rock was so irregular, that the difficulty of tightening it, and also of emptying the contained water, so as to get the benefit of it during ebb-tide, would have been so great, that, taking these circumstances into account, together, with the loss of time which would attend the erection of such a preparatory work, the idea of a coffer-dam was laid aside, soon after entering upon the actual execution of the work.

Inconveniencies of foggy weather.

The boats landed this evening, when the artificers had again two hours’ work. The weather still continuing very thick and foggy, more difficulty was experienced in getting on board of the vessels to-night, than had occurred on any previous occasion, owing to a light breeze of wind which carried the sound of the bell, and the other signals, made on board of the vessels, away from the Rock. Having, fortunately, made out the position of the sloop Smeaton, at the N.E. buoy,—to which we were much assisted by the barking of the ship’s dog, we parted with the Smeaton’s boat, when the boats of the Tender took a fresh departure for that vessel, which lay about half a mile to the south-westward. Yet such is the very deceiving state of the tides, that although there was a small binnacle and compass in the landing-master’s boat, we had, nevertheless, passed the Sir Joseph a good way, when, fortunately, one of the sailors catched the sound of a blowing-horn. The only fire-arms on board, were a pair of swivels of one inch caliber; but it is quite surprising how much the sound is lost in foggy weather, as the report was heard but at a very short distance. The sound, from the explosion of gunpowder, is so instantaneous, that the effect of the small guns was not so good as either the blowing of a horn, or the tolling of a bell, which afforded a more constant and steady direction for the pilot. It may here be noticed, that larger guns would have answered better, but these must have induced the keeping of a greater stock of gunpowder, which, in a service of this kind, might have been attended with risk. A better signal would have been a bugle-horn, the tremulous sound of which produces a more powerful effect in fog, than the less sonorous and more sudden report of ordnance.

Friday, 24th.

The artificers landed to-day, both with the morning and evening tides. During the first, they had two hours and three-quarters, and in the latter, two hours and a quarter, making together five hours work; the weather still continuing thick and foggy, with the wind at south-east.

Saturday, 25th.

The boats landed this morning at a quarter from 8 o’clock, and the artificers left off work at half-past 10. During the evening’s tide, the operations were again continued with torch-light, from half-past 7 till 11 o’clock P. M., having to-day had four hours and three-quarters work upon the rock.

Force of the sea upon the Rock.

A remarkable fact may here be mentioned as an evidence of the force of the sea upon the Bell Rock. The reader may remember, that the mushroom anchor, with its chain and buoy, which had drifted during the very hard gale of the 6th September 1807, were found upon the Rock after the gale: at that time the buoy and chain were taken up, but the anchor having got into a pretty large hole or cavity of the rock, no convenient opportunity occurred for lifting it last season. No doubt, however, was entertained that a mass of iron, weighing about a ton, without any timber or buoyant matter attached to it, would remain in this position undisturbed, till a convenient time should occur for recovering it. But, at the commencement of the works this season, to the surprise of every one, the anchor in question could not be seen. To-day, however, it was discovered at the opposite side of the Rock, by one of the smiths who was at work upon the highest platform of the beacon; and the weather being extremely fine, it was weighed or lifted by the landing-master’s crew. For this purpose, spars were laid across two boats, between which the anchor was made fast: as the tide rose the boats floated, and the anchor thus suspended, was conveyed to one of the vessels in the offing; when a chain and buoy being attached to it, it was again laid down in a proper birth, as the moorings of one of the praam-boats.

Sunday, 26th.

The weather kept still very favourable for the operations at the rock, though, from the prevailing fogs, it was not only inconvenient, but hazardous, to ply even in the short distance between the rock and the vessels in the offing. The boats landed this morning at half-past 8, and again returned to the Tender at 12. In the evening, they landed at half-past 8 and continued with torch-light till half-past 11 P. M., having had five hours work during the two tides.

Monday, 27th.

The weather was still thick and hazy, but the sea kept smooth, and the tides were very favourable, so that in the morning, the artificers were at work from half-past 8 till half-past 11 o’clock; and in the evening, from a quarter past 9 till midnight; or had altogether five hours and three-quarters work to-day.

The writer wishing, in such favourable weather, to try the practicability of bringing the Stone-lighters directly into the landing creeks of the Rock, with the stones and building materials, by which great facility might occasionally be given to the work, in landing the stones directly from the vessels, instead of doing it on all occasions by loading and discharging the praam-boats; an experiment was accordingly made this evening, and the sloop Smeaton was towed into the eastern creek, when it was ascertained that her cargo, in such weather, might have been very speedily landed. But when the tide left the rock, the vessel heeled to the one side, her sails hung loose, and she had so much the appearance of a wreck, that the sight cast an immediate gloom particularly upon the countenances of the seamen, to whom a vessel, in this state, could not be viewed without some degree of horror. Whether it was partly from this circumstance, or that the tide and weather would so seldom answer this nice operation, or that the landing-master’s crew had become so expert in transporting the praam-boats, the idea of laying the stone-vessels upon the rock, was, from this night’s experiment, completely abandoned.

Tuesday 28th.

Land in the morning at 9, and continue at work till 1 P. M., and again in the evening, when the work is continued by torch-light, from half-past 10 till half-past 12, having had five hours’ work to-day.

Wednesday, 29th.

The wind was at south-east this morning, with gentle breezes and clear weather. The boats landed at 11 A. M., and the foundation pit having been speedily cleared of water, the work was continued till half-past 1. P. M., being three hours. The evening tides now falling late, and becoming neap, no landing was made this night.

Monday, 30th.

Artificers leave the Rock. Progress of the works.

The boats landed the artificers on the rock at half-past 11 this morning, but the tides being extremely languid, there was only about an hour’s work got upon the site of the building, and about 2½ hours’ at the Railways. Finding that little more could be got done during the present set of spring-tides, on returning to the vessel at 3 P. M., she was got under way, and sailed for Arbroath, which she reached at 7 P. M.; but, being too early in the tide for getting into the harbour, the author landed with the boat, and felt not a little satisfied with the progress and success of the work. The site of the building had been excavated as low in some parts as it was necessary or proper to carry it, and there was now a good prospect of having it completely prepared in the course of the next spring-tides. About 100 feet of the eastern branch of the Railway had also been laid, while the best of the season was still to come. The business of the work-yard was going on with no less vigour ashore. The greater quantity of the stones wanted from Aberdeen for the courses in hand, had been brought to Arbroath, and the supply was becoming both more regular and abundant from the quarry of Mylnefield. The second course, which contained very weighty stones, being 18 inches in thickness, was now nearly all laid down upon the platform in the middle of the work-yard, where each stone was carefully fitted and marked as it was to lie in the building, in the same manner as had been done with the first course.

The Artificers’ pay and premiums this month.

It so happened that the artificers employed afloat, or, at the Bell Rock, were upon this occasion ashore on the regular pay-day, which took place on the first of every month. The seamen’s wages were paid once a quarter, and their premiums at the end of the working season. Such of the artificers as had been off at the Rock this month, had each a considerable sum to receive for wages and premiums, say L. 6, the stated wages being L. 1 for six days; and having no disbursement to make for victuals, the situation of those afloat became enviable, and the workmen who had not been at the Rock, now began to make application for what they called their turn afloat. This change was not a little gratifying, considering the hesitation and backwardness shewn last season to this part of the service.

1808, July.

Tuesday, 5th.

Artificers embark for the Rock.

At 11 o’clock P. M., the Sir Joseph Banks Tender set sail from Arbroath for the Bell Rock, to commence the operations for the ensuing spring tides, having on board 38 masons, 6 joiners, 3 smiths, and the landing-master’s crew, consisting of 12 seamen, in all 59. The winds being variable, the vessel only got a short way off the shore in the course of the night, and did not reach her moorings till the next day at noon.

Wednesday, 6th.

Commence operations for the ensuing Spring-tides.

Landed on the Rock, with the three boats belonging to the Tender, at 5 P. M., and began immediately to bale the water out of the foundation-pit, with a number of buckets, while the pumps were also kept in action with relays of artificers and seamen. The work commenced upon the higher parts of the foundation, as the water left them, but it was now pretty generally reduced to a level. The pumps were laid in a diagonal position as represented in Plate XI.; four men wrought at the cross handle and guided the pump-spear, to which a rope was attached, and in this manner, about 20 men could be conveniently employed at each pump, and it is quite astonishing in how short a time so great a body of water could be drawn off. The water in the foundation-pit at this time, measured about two feet in depth, on an area of 42 feet in diameter; and yet it was drawn off in the course of about half an hour. After this, the artificers commenced with their picks, and continued at work for two hours and a half, some of the sailors being at the same time busily employed in clearing the foundation of chips, and in conveying the irons to and from the smiths on the beacon where they were sharped. At 8 o’clock, the sea broke in upon us, and overflowed the foundation pit, when the boats returned to the Tender.

Thursday, 7th.

How employed.

The landing-master’s bell rung this morning about 4 o’clock, and at 5 the boats landed the artificers, when the pumps and buckets were set to work to clear the foundation-pit of water. The pumps, as formerly noticed, were left upon the Rock, being fixed between four bars of iron, batted or wedged into it, upon which plates were fitted with forelocks, which kept them from shifting. It was common also to drive a few wedges of iron between the pumps and these fixtures, for greater security against their being lifted by the pressure of the water, which, in spring tides, was from 12 to 14 feet in depth. At half-past 5, the foundation being cleared, the work commenced on the site of the building. But from the moment of landing, the squad of joiners and mill-wrights was at work upon the higher parts of the Rock, in laying the railways, while the anvils of the smiths resounded on the Beacon, and such columns of smoke ascended from the forges, that they were often mistaken by strangers at a distance, for a ship on fire. After continuing three hours at work, the foundation of the building was again overflowed, and the boats returned to the ship at half-past 8 o’clock. The masons and pickmen had, at this period, a pretty long day on board of the Tender, but the smiths and joiners were kept constantly at work upon the Beacon; the stability and great conveniency of which had now been so fully shewn, that no doubt remained as to the propriety of fitting it up as a barrack. The workmen were accordingly employed, during the period of high-water, in making preparations for this purpose.

Foundation stone prepared.

The foundation-pit now assumed the appearance of a great platform, and the late tides had been so favourable, that it became apparent that the first course, consisting of a few irregular and detached stones for making up certain inequalities in the interior parts of the site of the building, might be laid in the course of the present spring-tides. Having been enabled to-day to get the dimensions of the foundation or first stone accurately taken, a mould was made of its figure, when the writer left the Rock, after the tide’s work of this morning, in a fast rowing boat, for Arbroath; and upon landing, two men were immediately set to work upon one of the blocks from Mylnefield quarry, which was prepared in the course of the following day, as the stone-cutters relieved each other, and worked both night and day, so that it was sent off in one of the Stone-lighters without delay.

On returning to the Rock, the writer found that the artificers had been able to land regularly, both at the morning and evening tides, and that they had added eight hours to the working period. He was, however, extremely sorry to find that he had missed the visit of his excellent friend Mr Patrick Neill, who, in the zeal of his pursuits in botany and natural history, had expressed a strong desire to examine the fuci and animals upon the Bell Rock, and had taken the opportunity of a passage with the Smeaton from Leith. But his engagements did not admit of his remaining till the writer’s return; and he had left the rock in a boat going to the Redhead, about seven miles east from Arbroath, where he expected to overtake the writer, but instead of which, they unluckily passed each other under night.

Saturday, 9th.

The weather still continued to be very agreeable, the wind being moderate and chiefly from the S.W. At 6 A. M. the signal bell was rung for embarking for the Rock. At 7 the artificers landed, and began to clear the foundation-pit of water, and the work continued from a quarter past 7 till half-past 11, having had three hours’ and a quarter’s work, when the Rock was again overflowed, and the boats returned to the Tender.

Foundation stone landed at high-water.

The site of the foundation-stone was very difficult to work, from its depth in the Rock, but being now nearly prepared, it formed a very agreeable kind of pastime, at high-water, for all hands to land it upon the Rock. The landing-master’s crew and artificers accordingly entered with great spirit into this operation. The stone was placed upon the deck of the Hedderwick Praam-boat, which had just been brought from Leith, and was decorated with colours for the occasion. Flags were also displayed from the shipping in the offing, and upon the Beacon. Here the writer took his station with the greater part of the artificers, who supported themselves in every possible position while the boats towed the praam from her moorings, and brought her immediately over the site of the building where her grappling anchors were let go. The stone was then lifted off the deck by a tackle hooked into a Lewis-bat, inserted into it; when it was gently lowered into the water, and grounded on the site of the building, amidst the cheering acclamations of about sixty persons. The landing of this stone at high-water became necessary, from there being still a want of a sufficient length of railway for conveying it along the Rock at low-water to the site of the building. But this method was rarely resorted to, as it was apt to skirt or break the edges of the stones; and as a continuation of good weather was not to be calculated upon, it was observed as a rule never to land more stones in any one tide than could be built, because the force of the sea was more than sufficient to remove the heaviest stones, as we have seen in the case of the first six blocks of granite which were landed by way of experiment, and also of the cast-iron mushroom anchor, which was drifted about the Rock, although it weighed upwards of a ton.

The boats landed at half-past 7 this evening, and the artificers immediately began to bale and pump the water from the foundation-pit, and the work was afterwards continued by torch-light till a quarter-past 11, having had three hours’ and a quarter’s work this tide.

Sunday, 10th.

Foundation-stone laid with masonic ceremony.

The wind to-day was variable, with gentle breezes varying from S.E. to N.E.; and every thing being in a state of preparation for laying the foundation-stone, which had yesterday been landed with so much eclat, the sailors again displayed their flags at all points, and a cheerful happiness was discernible in every countenance. At half-past 8 the boats landed the artificers, and the weather being remarkably fine, as many of the crews of the Floating-light, the Tender and the Smeaton, as could be spared from their respective ships, landed this morning, to witness the long-wished-for ceremony of laying the first stone of the Light-house. We had, besides, an acquisition to our numbers, in a party consisting of about sixteen persons from Dundee, who came to the Rock, just as preparations were making for laying the stone.

Whether we consider this building as an erection of great difficulty, or, in a nautical point of view, as adding much to the comfort and protection of the mariner, and safety of property, upon a range of coast extending almost to the whole eastern shores of Great Britain, its importance is evident. If it be proper, therefore, on any occasion, to attach importance to the act of laying the first stone of a public building, that of the Bell Rock Light-house cannot be said to yield to any in point of celebrity, either for the peculiarity of its situation, or the importance of its object. Under these considerations it is obvious, that but for the perilous and uncertain nature of any arrangement which could have been made for this ceremony, instead of its having been performed only in the presence of those immediately connected with the work, and of a few accidental spectators from the neighbouring shore, counting in all about eighty persons, many thousands would have attended upon an occasion which must have called forth the first dignitaries of the country, in conferring the highest honours of masonry. The writer may, however, confidently affirm, that, situate as the work was, nothing could add to the satisfaction felt by all present, in having now got matters in so advanced a state, as to be able to commence the building operations.

At 11 o’clock, the foundation stone was laid to hand. It was of a square form, containing about 20 cubic feet, and had the figures or date of 1808 simply cut upon it with a chisel, a derrick or spar of timber having been erected at the edge of the hole and guyed with ropes. The stone was then hooked to the tackle and lowered into its place, when the writer, attended by his assistants Mr Peter Logan, Mr Francis Watt, and Mr James Wilson, applied the square, the level, and the mallet, and pronounced the following benediction: “May the Great Architect of the Universe complete and bless this building,” on which three hearty cheers were given, and success to the future operations was drunk with the greatest enthusiasm.

Prayers read after the tide’s work.

By 12 o’clock noon, the tide had overflowed the site of the building, and the boats left the Rock after a tide’s work of three hours and a half. On returning to the ship, prayers were read, when every heart perhaps felt more than ordinary thankfulness. The artificers were again landed in the evening at half-past 8, and continued at work, with torch-light, till a quarter past 12, having been three hours and three quarters’ at work, or seven hours in all to-day.

Monday, 11th.

The boats landed at 9 o’clock this morning, and after three hours’ and a quarter’s work, they left the Rock at a quarter past 1 P. M. The artificers landed again in the evening, and work with torch-light from 10 to a quarter past 12, having had two hours’ and a quarter’s work.

Tuesday, 12th.

After clearing the foundation-pit of water, by means of the two pumps and a number of buckets, the work commenced at a quarter past 10, and left off at half-past 12 noon, having had two hours’ and a quarter’s work. In the evening, the artificers again landed at 9, but it was not till a quarter past 11 that the water was cleared out, and it began to overflow the site of the building again at midnight, so that only three quarters of an hour’s work was got upon the Rock with the evening tide.

Wednesday, 13th.

Land at a quarter before 10 A. M., and begin to work at half-past 10, and left off at a quarter from 1 P. M., having had two hours’ and a half. In the evening at 12 o’clock, the foundation-pit was cleared of water; but at a quarter past 12, the sea broke into it again, so that no work was done, owing to the state of the tide.

Thursday, 14th.

Tender leaves the Rock.

Land to-day at half-past 12 noon, and had one hour’s work. But the tides being now in the state of neap, the Tender sailed with the artificers and landing-master’s crew to Arbroath, to wait the return of spring-tides. The work now put on a very promising appearance. The first stone had been laid, and the levelling of the site of the building was in such a state, as to afford every prospect of being able to commence the building of the first entire course, after a few good tides. The reach of the Railways from the site of the building, to the eastern landing-place, was also in a state of great forwardness, and the other parts of the apparatus being now in readiness, there was every prospect of making rapid progress after the foundation course was laid, and building operations were fairly begun.

Price of granite advanced.

In the work-yard, however, things had not so prosperous an appearance, as a number of blocks of granite were still wanting to complete the first four courses of the building; and such was the urgency of the demand, lest the work should be stopped in its progress, that the writer authorised Mr Gildowie of Aberdeen to advance the price of stone, according to circumstances, as an additional stimulus to the exertions of the quarriers. From this state of matters, it was now pretty obvious, that not more than two or three courses of the light-house could be built this season.

Friday, 22d.

Artificers sail for the Rock.

To-day, at 1 o’clock P. M., the Tender left Arbroath for the Bell Rock, having on board 16 masons, 5 mill-wrights and joiners, 2 black-smiths, and 13 seamen, in all 35 persons, including the officers of the ship. The wind was at E. N. E., with light breezes and fine weather; but as it fell calm, the boats left the Tender at 5 P. M. with the artificers, while yet about 5 or 6 miles from the rock: but owing to the strength of the ebb-tide, it was found impossible to reach it in time for the tide, and they returned to the vessel at 9 P. M. without having effected a landing.

Saturday, 23d.

At half-past 5 A. M., the Tender was made fast to the south-west buoy, when the artificers landed. The two pumps were immediately set to work, and at half-past 7 the work commenced, and continued till a quarter past 9, when the site of the building was again overflowed, and the boats left the Rock after an hour and three-quarters’ work. In the evening the work commenced at 7, and left off at half-past 9, after two hours’ and a half’s work.

Sunday, 24th.

A raft of timber goes adrift.

The wind was at S.S.E., with strong gales, accompanied with a heavy breach of sea, so that the boats could not land, and there was consequently no work done to-day. The ship had also such a rolling motion, that the people could not be collected on deck, as usual, for reading prayers. The wind was at east, accompanied with a pretty heavy swell of sea to-day, so that it was not without considerable difficulty that the boats landed, when two hours’ and a quarter’s work were got, having been on the Rock from three quarters past 7 till 10 A. M. But in this state of the weather a landing was not attempted in the evening. In the course of this night, a raft of six Norway logs, intended for laying the railways over certain gullies or inequalities of the rock, drifted from one of the floating buoys to which it had been made fast. It was afterwards picked up by some fishermen in the Firth of Forth, near Anstruther, who were paid L. 2 for their trouble, in name of salvage and expences.

Tuesday, 25th.

The weather was more settled to-day, and the sea had become much smoother. At a quarter past 8 A. M. the work commenced, and left off again at half-past 11, after an excellent tide’s work of three hours and a quarter. The masons were chiefly employed at the foundation of the building,—the millwrights and joiners at the railways,—the blacksmiths were kept busy at both operations,—while the landing-master’s crew took part in the whole.

The boats landed again in the evening at 8 P. M., and the foundation having been cleared, the artificers began to the low-water works at a quarter past 9, and continued till 11. After an hour and three-quarters’ work they left the rock, but the joiners and blacksmiths had been employed on the beacon since morning.

State of things, at night, upon extinguishing the torches.

The wind being at S.E. this evening, we had a pretty heavy swell of sea upon the rock, and some difficulty attended our getting off in safety, as the boats got a-ground in the creek, and were in danger of being upset. Upon extinguishing the torch-lights, about twelve in number, the darkness of the night seemed quite horrible; the water being also much charged with the phosphorescent appearance which is familiar to every one on ship-board, the waves, as they dashed upon the rock, were in some degree like so much liquid flame. The scene, upon the whole, was truly awful.

Wednesday, 26th.

The first, or foundation course is finished to-day.

The work on the rock began this morning at 9 o’clock, and left off at a quarter past 12 noon, when the tide overflowed the site of the building. The masons then went on board of the Tender, but the smiths and joiners, as usual, continued their operations on the beacon. The weather being moderate, the boats landed again in the evening, at a quarter past 10, and left off at midnight, having had altogether four hours’ and three quarters’ of low-water work to-day, when the last of the eighteen detached pieces of stone, forming the Foundation-course, were laid. The several holes or cavities in it, varying in depth from six to eighteen inches, had now been built up with stones, exactly cut and fitted to their respective places, as represented in Plate XV.; and which brought the whole surface to a uniform level.

The force of habit exemplified in landing at night on the Bell Rock.

In leaving the Rock this evening, every thing, after the torches were extinguished, had the same dismal appearance as last night, but so perfectly acquainted were the landing-master and his crew with the position of things at the Rock, that comparatively little inconveniency was experienced on these occasions, when the weather was moderate: such is the effect of habit, even in the most unpleasant situations. If, for example, it had been proposed to a person accustomed to a city life, at once to take up his quarters off a sunken reef, and land upon it in boats at all hours of the night, the proposition must have appeared quite impracticable and extravagant; but this practice coming progressively upon the artificers, it was ultimately undertaken with the greatest alacrity. Notwithstanding this, however, it must be acknowledged, that it was not till after much labour and peril, and many an anxious hour, that the writer is enabled to state, that the site of the Bell Rock Light-house is fully prepared for the First entire course of the building.

Thursday, 28th.

First cargo of an entire course landed.

The sloop Smeaton had accordingly loaded the first cargo of cut stone at Arbroath for the Light-house, consisting of twenty blocks of the First entire course, and had last night come to her moorings; and this morning the praam-boats were employed in landing her cargo upon the Rock. From the want of a complete line of Railway from any of the landing-places to the site of the building, this operation could only be effected at high-water, when the stones were let down, one after another, upon the unincumbered area of the foundation of the Light-house, by means of a slip-rope passed through the Lewis-bat of each stone. This, as before noticed, was by no means a very desirable mode of landing the materials, and was indeed, one that could rarely be resorted to, except in the finest weather. The artificers having landed at 9 A. M., the foundation was cleared of water by 10, when the masons made preparations for commencing the building operations. Having had two hours’ and three quarters’ work, they left the Rock, after laying the blocks of stone which had been landed, in a compact and regular manner upon the site of the building.

Friday, 29th.

The wind was at east to-day, with a gentle breeze. At 10 A. M. the workmen landed, but the tides becoming neap, it was two hours and a half before the foundation could be cleared of water, and at a quarter from 2 P. M. it was again overflowed, having only had an hour and a quarter’s work with the morning tide, when the twelve remaining blocks of the Smeaton’s cargo were laid to hand, and ready for being built with mortar. In the present state of the tides, it was not judged necessary to land this evening.

The Smeaton makes a second trip for a cargo in 20 hours.

The Smeaton having been unloaded yesterday forenoon, she was again dispatched to Arbroath for another cargo of the First course, which she got on board that same night by 12 o’clock, and had returned to her moorings at the Bell Rock this morning; Captain Pool, with his usual activity, having only been absent from the Rock about twenty hours. In the mean time, the writer visited the operations of the work-yard, to ascertain more fully what prospect there was of having a supply of prepared stones for continuing the works of this season, to the extent of three or four courses of the Light-house. Some arrangement also was necessary for the removal of Cranes and other articles of machinery for the use of the building operations.

Saturday, 30th.

Tender sails for Arbroath.

The Tender left her moorings at the Rock this morning for Arbroath, with such of the artificers as could be spared. Those left shifted on board of the Smeaton, and were to be employed at the Beacon, and in laying the Railways, now much wanted, for transporting the stones along the Rock. They also attended to the arrangement of the materials landed upon the site of the building, where, from the lowness of its situation, they lay in safety. In the work-yard considerable progress had now been made with the Second entire course of the building, and after much trouble, the necessary blocks of granite had at length come to hand, for completing it, but still many stones were wanting for the higher ones.

1808, August.

August, Wednesday, 3d.

Returns to the Rock.

The Tender sailed this afternoon from Arbroath, having on board two of the cranes already alluded to, as in preparation for the work, upon a new construction, as will be seen in Plate XIV. These were intended to be erected on the site of the building, for laying the stones in a more perfect and expeditious manner than had hitherto been followed in operations of this kind. She carried also forty-seven persons, including artificers and seamen; but as the winds were light, little progress was made during the afternoon, for, as yet, the utility of the Steam-boat, in cases of this kind, had not been developed.

Thursday, 4th.

Four stones laid.

At 4 o’clock this morning the Tender reached her moorings, and was made fast to the south-west buoy, as laid down upon Plate V. At 5 o’clock, 32 artificers and 11 seamen landed upon the Rock, from three boats. The landing-master’s crew transported one of the cranes from on board of the Tender, on one of the praams, and landed it at high-water upon the Rock. Having again landed in the evening, the foundation-pit was cleared of water by 6 o’clock, when the Crane was set up and properly guyed with ropes. The center-stone and three others were then laid with mortar, and trenailed to the Rock. After two hours’ work, the site of the building was again overflowed, and at 8 o’clock the artificers returned on board of the Tender.

Advantages of the new cranes over sheer-poles.

As the stones were all dove-tailed into one another, they required to be laid perpendicularly into their respective places, which was also essential to preserving a proper bed of mortar under them. This could only be effected in a speedy and dextrous manner by means of a crane; but it will further be seen, from the angular figure of the stones, that this could not be effected by one of these machines of the ordinary construction, as has formerly been noticed. It had been recommended to the writer to use the common sheer-poles, with which the Edystone Light-house was built, which, notwithstanding all the improvements in machinery, were still chiefly in use for laying heavy stones; but sheer-poles, besides being difficult to preserve on a sunken rock, could neither have laid the materials so well, nor with a tenth part of the expedition, as the crane with the moveable beam delineated in Plate XIV.

Mr Smeaton’s plan of Trenails and Wedges followed.

Stones laid at the depth of about 14 feet under high-water mark, required more than merely laying them on their respective beds, and trusting to their own gravity. For this purpose nothing seemed to be so well adapted as the oaken trenails which Mr Smeaton used in the erection of the Edystone Light-house. Two jumper-holes, of an inch and a half in diameter, had accordingly been drilled through each stone, which were continued or perforated to the depth of six inches into the rock or course immediately below, which became the most tedious part of the building operation. When the oaken trenail was inserted into the hole, it had a saw-draught across the lower end, into which a small wedge was inserted: and when driven home, it became quite firm. The trenail was then cut flush with the upper bed of the stone, and split with a chisel, when another wooden wedge was inserted and driven into the upper end of the trenail, as represented in diagram 10. of Plate X. Nor was this all, for, in following up Mr Smeaton’s principle, two pairs of oaken wedges, as represented in Plate X., Fig. 11. were also driven gently into the perpendicular joints, prior to grouting them with mortar. The whole stones of a course had thus to be laid with great nicety, corresponding to a number of checks and marks, previously arranged in the work-yard, that the wedges might fit without trouble at the Rock, and preserve the respective positions of the superincumbent courses, and make band throughout the whole fabric.

Friday, 5th.

16 Stones laid.

The boats landed the artificers this morning at half-past 5 o’clock, and the foundation-pit being cleared of water, seven stones were laid and secured with trenails by 8 o’clock. The artificers are again landed at 6 P. M. and in the course of two hours nine additional stones were laid.

Saturday, 6th, till Wednesday, 10th.

92 Stones laid.

From Saturday the 6th till Wednesday the 10th inclusive, the weather and tides were favourable, which afforded an opportunity of landing both with the morning and evening tides, and in the course of these five days twenty-six hours’ work were obtained, and ninety-two stones were laid. The landing-master’s crew also continued their operations in delivering the Smeaton, and laying her cargoes on the Rock.

Thursday, 11th.

11 Stones laid.

The boats landed the artificers to-day at 9 A. M., and in about three quarters of an hour the site of the building was cleared of water, when eleven stones were laid in the course of an hour and three quarters. There being a considerable swell in the sea to-day from south-east, the praams could not land any materials upon the Rock at high-water, and nothing could be done in this way at low-water, as the Railways were not yet in a working condition.

A party of Gentlemen narrowly escape being drowned.

During the morning-tide, while the work was in progress, a very serious accident was like to have happened to a party of gentlemen from Leith, who came to see the operations at the Rock. They attempted to land in a very small boat belonging to their yacht; but, as a considerable swell of sea set round it in all directions, after several attempts, they found this to be impracticable. The writer then hailed the gentlemen, and advised them to return, and remain on board of their vessel, until the state of the tide would enable him to send a proper boat for them. In the mean time, however, a boat from the Floating-light, pretty deeply laden, with lime, cement and sand, approached, when the strangers, with a view to avoid giving trouble, took their passage in her to the Rock. The accession of three passengers to a boat, already in a lumbered state, put her completely out of trim, and, as it unluckily happened, the man who steered her was not in the habit of attending the Rock, and was not sufficiently aware of the run of the sea at the entrance of the eastern creek. Instead, therefore, of keeping close to the small rock called “John Gray,” the situation of which will be seen in Plate VI., he gave it a wide birth, as the sailors term it; a heavy sea having struck the boat, drove her to leeward, and the oars getting entangled among the rocks and sea-weed, she became unmanageable, and was thrown on a ledge by another heavy swell, which instantly leaving her, she kanted seaward upon her gunwale, when the people, and part of the cargo, were thrown into the sea. Before she righted, or any assistance could be rendered by those on the Rock, another sea came which filled her and scattered the passengers, eight in number, in all directions. Some clung to the boat, others to the sea-weed, and two or three having got hold of oars and loose thwarts, which floated about, were carried out of the creek, to a considerable distance from the spot where the accident happened. By the very prompt and active assistance of Mr James Wilson, the landing-master, and his crew, the whole were, however, speedily got out of the water, excepting a Mr Strachan, one of the strangers, who had clung to the sea-weed upon a small insulated rock, bearing his name, in Plate VI., to which it was impossible at this time of tide to approach, without the assistance of a boat. Mr Wilson, with a dexterity peculiar to himself, made towards this spot, where Mr Strachan, with great resolution and perseverance, still kept his hold, although every returning sea laid him completely under water, and even hid him from the view of the spectators on the Rock. In this situation he must have remained for ten or twelve minutes. When the boat reached the insulated rock, the most difficult part was still to perform, as it required the greatest nicety of management to guide her in a rolling sea, so as to prevent her from being carried forcibly against Mr Strachan, who was in danger of being struck with the stem of the boat, to which he lay completely exposed. Notwithstanding the breach of the sea, however, and the narrowness of the passage, the boat was conducted at the proper moment close to Mr Strachan, without either touching him or the insulated rock to which he clung, till he was lifted into the boat. Mr Strachan was of course much exhausted, from having been so completely overrun by the sea, and having had but a very short space for breathing between the returning waves.

The gentlemen thus extricated in safety from the most imminent peril, were immediately removed on board of their own vessel, no doubt very thankful for the narrow escape they had made, and with grateful recollections of the exertions made by Captain Wilson and his crew. With regard to the people belonging to the Light-house service, none of them were materially injured beyond the disagreeable ducking which they experienced; but the boat was almost completely wrecked: her cargo was also injured, and partly lost.

Friday, 12th.

First entire course completed.

The artificers landed this morning at half-past 10, and after an hour and a half’s work, eight stones were laid, which completed the First entire course of the building, consisting of 123 blocks, the last of which was laid with three hearty cheers. Immediately after this tide the Tender left the Rock for Arbroath, with all hands on board; and having a fine breeze at south, she got into the harbour at half-past 6 P. M., to wait the return of the spring-tides.

Artificers are welcomed into Arbroath Harbour.

Those on board felt not a little happy, when the ship, which, on her passage, had been decorated with colours, intimating that the First entire course was laid, was received with cheering from the workmen ashore, and the inhabitants of Arbroath. The service of the Bell Rock now became every trip more desirable with the artificers, who, having been enabled to work both during the morning and evening tides, with the exception of the evening of the 11th, the premiums over and above their stated wages became more and more an object, while the experience acquired in landing 123 blocks of stone, had fully established the practicability of the whole operation.

One of the Artificers disabled. He receives an annuity.

On the writer’s arrival at the work-yard this evening, he learned, with much regret, that an unfortunate accident had happened to one of the masons, of the name of Hugh Rose, while employed in raising a block of stone, of between two and three tons weight, with the carpenter’s jack, represented in Plate X. The jack had not been set with sufficient care, and slipped from under the stone, which instantly fell upon his knees. For a considerable time Rose was thus kept in a sitting posture, with a great part of the weight of this large stone resting upon his legs, till relieved by the other workmen who came to his assistance, and again applied the jack to raise the stone. His legs were, however, sprained in a very painful and distressing manner, which kept him from work for upwards of a twelvemonth. He was one of the best workmen in the Yard, and a man of great bodily strength; but became so much disabled by this accident, that the Light-house Board was afterwards pleased to settle an annuity of L. 20 per annum upon him.

Friday, 19th.

Granite Stones much wanted.

The work at this moment had much the appearance as if it would be retarded, as several blocks of stone were still wanted from the quarries at Aberdeen, to complete the Third entire course, the Second being now ready to be removed from the work-yard to the Rock. This course was 18 inches in thickness, the granite stones of which measured from 4 to 7 feet in length, varying in breadth from 3 feet to 4 feet 6 inches. Stones of these dimensions could not be landed with safety at high-water, but the railways on the Rock were nearly completed from the eastern landing-place to the site of the building, so that every thing was now in readiness for commencing the landing of the materials with low-water.

Wednesday, 24th.

10 Stones laid.

Having made all the necessary arrangements for making dispatch with the Third course, the writer sailed at mid-day on the 24th, with the Tender, for the Bell Rock, having on board forty-three persons in all, and the wind being favourable, the vessel was made fast to her buoy at the Rock at 7 P. M. The Smeaton also came to her moorings with a cargo of the Second course, when the landing-master’s crew brought the praam-boat along-side, and was loaded with 10 stones, which were landed, and laid this evening after three hours’ work.

Saturday, 27th.

136 Stones laid in 7 tides.

The weather having been extremely favourable, regular tides’ work were got both morning and evening, so that the Second entire course, containing 136 stones in number, and 152 tons weight, was laid in the course of seven tides; the sloop Smeaton having been kept constantly plying between the Bell Rock and Arbroath, where, on her arrival, she was immediately loaded, whether by night or day. From the favourable state of the weather, the complete and effective condition of the landing apparatus, and the dexterity of the landing-master’s crew, a cargo of stones was discharged from the vessel, and landed on the Rock in as short a time as the stones could be built, and the holes bored into the course below, and trenails fixed into them. To facilitate the lifting of the stones off the waggons, after they were brought on the railways to the site of the building, and for laying them at once on every part of its area, though measuring 42 feet in diameter, a second crane was erected on the First entire course, as represented in Plate IX., which thus admitted of the Second course being built with great facility, without once requiring to shift the cranes horizontally; as the beams, when extended in opposite directions, reached from the centre to the extremity of the course.

1808, September.

Second course completed.

On completing the laying of the Second entire course, the Light-house began to assume the appearance and form of a building; for, although still under a part of the excavated rock, it was, nevertheless, 4 feet above the level of the lower bed of the foundation-stone,—a consideration which was highly gratifying to those immediately connected with the work. Having successfully completed this course, the writer sailed with the Smeaton for Arbroath, accompanied by such of the artificers as had been employed in building, and leaving the Tender at the Rock, with the mill-wrights, joiners, smiths, and masons, who worked at the Railways, and in preparing the upper part of the Beacon as a barrack. After landing at Arbroath, the Smeaton was immediately dispatched for Aberdeen, in quest of a few blocks of granite, still much wanted for the courses in hand.

Friday, 9th.

Artificers go off to the Rock. 10 Stones laid.

Having now got the Third entire course nearly ready for shipping, the Tender returned to Arbroath for the artificers, and a supply of water and provisions; and sailed again this morning at two o’clock for the Bell Rock, having forty persons on board. At 9 she was made fast to the S.W. buoy, when the boats were hoisted out and landed the artificers, who remained till 12 noon. These two hours were occupied in adjusting the cranes, and making preparations for commencing the building operations. A landing is again made in the evening at 9, and at midnight the artificers returned on board of the Tender, having been three hours on the Rock, when ten stones of the Third course were laid and trenailed to the course below.

Saturday, 10th.

Pumping of Water discontinued.

Land at 9 A. M., and by a quarter past 12 noon, 23 stones had been laid. The works being now somewhat elevated by the lower courses, we got quit of the very serious inconvenience of pumping water to clear the foundation-pit. This gave much facility to the operations, and was noticed with expressions of as much happiness by the artificers as the seamen had shewn when relieved of the continual trouble of carrying the smiths’ bellows off the Rock, prior to the erection of the Beacon.

One of the Artificers loses a finger.

While the workmen were laying the closing or last stone of the former course, John Bonnyman, one of the most active and expert of the masons, met with an unlucky accident in the following manner. The moveable beam of the building-crane having been lowered to a horizontal position, for the purpose of laying the stone at the circumference of the course, Bonnyman, who was directing it into its birth with a small pince in his right hand, had inadvertently rested his left hand on the beam, near the sheave or pulley, at its extremity, when one of the links unfortunately caught his hand, and before the crane could be stopped, the chain had passed over the middle joint of the fore-finger, and cut it so nearly off, that he applied to the writer, who was standing by, to relieve him of the almost detached part. But having no great inclination for the performance of operations of this kind, the severed parts were set together and bandaged in as careful a manner as circumstances would admit, when the patient was sent in a fast-rowing boat to Arbroath for medical aid. It was nevertheless soon afterwards found necessary to amputate the finger, and Bonnyman became a successful candidate for a light-keeper’s birth.

Sunday, 11th.

Progress of the works stopped for want of granite.

Having landed this morning at 10, the work was continued during four hours, when 14 stones were laid; but its regular progress had now to be stopped for a time, owing to the want of stones from the work-yard, where some blocks of granite were waited for from the quarries. In the afternoon the Smeaton arrived with a few hearting or interior stones of the course in hand; but the wind having been for some days past in the N.E., accompanied with a considerable swell of sea, it was not found practicable to make a landing, and the praam-boat, after having been loaded, was made fast to her moorings: consequently no landing was made on the Rock with the night tide.

Monday, 12th.

Building level with the higher parts of the Rock.

The wind being still at N.E., the swell was so great that the boats landed with much difficulty on the Rock this morning at half-past 11 o’clock, but could only remain for an hour and a half, owing to the heavy sea which ran upon it. This tide was employed in completing the boring of the trenail-holes, and in securing the stones which had been laid. The cranes were also raised from the second to the third course, which being 18 inches in thickness, the artificers who worked them now stood nearly on a level with the highest parts of the Rock.

Tuesday, 13th.

Experience great difficulty in landing.

The wind being still at N.E., accompanied with a heavy breach on the Rock, no attempt would have been made to land to-day, had not the writer felt a more than ordinary desire to examine the state of the work, from the manner in which the sea broke upon the building. In accomplishing this about noon, the boats were frequently put back, but were at length successful, when it was found that the force of the sea had raised two of the stones exposed to its immediate wash, which, in the unfinished state of the course, formed an abrupt face to the waves. These two stones were lifted perpendicularly off their beds, the one to the height of 6, the other of 10 inches; but they were fortunately still held by the trenails, and supported as if on stilts. Had this not been timeously observed, the probability is, that the operation of another tide might have swept them into deep water, which would have been attended with much additional hazard, by delaying the work in its present state, at so advanced a period of the season.

Two Stones loosened but are again secured. The vessels slip their moorings.

The trenails of these stones having been drawn or bored out, the stones were laid a second time, when every precaution was taken to secure the mortar, by stuffing bagging-cloth round the joints, and loading them with bars of iron. The guy-ropes of the cranes were also tightened, and every thing put in as complete a state of security as circumstances would admit. At 1 P. M. the boats again returned to the Tender, which now rode so heavily at her moorings that it was found necessary to get her under way, when she sailed for Arbroath with the artificers. The Smeaton also slipped her moorings; but instructions were previously given to Mr Pool, to keep as close as possible to the loaded praam-boat, still riding at her moorings, that, in the event of her breaking adrift, he might be at hand to take her in tow. In the evening, however, the weather moderated considerably, and, after landing the masons at Arbroath, to remain till the return of spring-tides, the Tender returned to her station at the Rock, with the workmen employed at the Beacon-house and Railways.

Saturday, 17th.

10 Stones are laid. The praam-boats ride out the gale.

The Light-house Yacht having to-day returned from the Northern Light-houses, she transported the builders from Arbroath to the Rock, and supplied the Floating-light and Tender with provisions and necessaries. By this means, the latter vessel was enabled to remain at her moorings during the present neap-tides, by which the operations on the higher parts of the Beacon made great progress. The writer also embarked this morning in the Light-house Yacht, and having hailed the Floating-light at noon, found that she had rode out the late gales with great ease. At 3 o’clock P. M. the Yacht was made fast to a set of moorings which had been laid down for her early in the season; and at 5, thirty artificers landed, when 10 stones were laid in two hours and a quarter. Notwithstanding the heavy seas which had run upon the Rock since the completion of the Second course, every thing was found in good order. The stones of the course in hand were all in their respective places, and the joints were full of mortar. The cranes also stood quite firm, with their guys and tackling. It was no less satisfactory to find that the loaded praam rode at her moorings in perfect safety, without having apparently shipped any sea during the gale.

Sunday, 18th.

31 Stones laid in 6¼ hours.

The artificers landed this morning at 5 o’clock, and continued at work till a quarter past 8. The railways being now in a pretty complete state, and a further supply of stones having been brought to the Rock, the landing-master got 21 blocks conveyed from the eastern wharf to the building. In the same manner, with the evening tide, 10 stones were landed, and the work continued from half-past 5 to half-past 8, having had six hours’ and a quarter’s work to-day, during which no fewer than 31 stones were laid.

Monday, 19th.

12 Stones are laid. The western track of Railway much wanted.

The artificers landed this morning, and continued at work for three hours, when 7 stones were laid. The wind being at S.E. there was a very heavy swell of sea in the eastern creek; and not having as yet been able to lay the Railway-track to the western creek, the stones were obliged to be landed on the eastern side of the Rock, which was often attended with great disadvantage to the work. For it was only in the very finest weather that materials could be dropped or lowered upon the Rock at high-water; an operation which was further attended with great inconveniency, from the sparse manner in which it was found necessary to drop them from the praam, to prevent their being injured. The fear also of a storm overtaking the work while the stones were in this situation, was none of the least sources of uneasiness which attended this practice: for, though the sea might not carry them entirely off the Rock, they might nevertheless be so damaged, as to render them unfit for the work, and the loss of a single stone could not be replaced without returning to the work-yard, and having recourse to the mould from which it was cut.

One of the beams cannot be got out of the eastern creek.

As the landing-master’s crew were in the act of towing one of the praam-boats into the eastern creek this morning, an unlucky sea struck her, and carried her upon the same ledge of the Rock, which, on the 11th of last month, had almost proved fatal to the Floating-light’s boat. By the active exertions of the crew, however, the praam on the present occasion was got off without sustaining much damage, her bottom being only slightly rubbed; and the cargo, consisting of 7 blocks of stone, with cement, &c. was landed in safety. The boats returned to the Rock at 6 P. M., and left it again at 9, after having had three hours’ work, and laid 5 stones, being all the materials that could be got this tide, owing to the rough state of the weather; for it was not till after three successive attempts had been made, that Mr Wilson succeeded in getting the praam into the creek this evening, the wind being at S.E., and still continuing to blow fresh with a heavy swell of sea, insomuch, that it was found impracticable to get her out again after unloading; and she, therefore, remained till the tide had flowed sufficiently to float her over the lower parts of the Rock to the westward.

Tuesday, 20th.

15 Stones are laid. The weather continues to be very boisterous.

The artificers landed this morning at 6 o’clock, and left the Rock again at a quarter past 10, having had four hours’ and a quarter’s work, when seven stones were laid. In the evening, the artificers landed at 6, and continued at work till 10, having had a tide of four hours, in which time eight stones were laid. Owing to the surf of sea upon the Rock to-day, it was with the utmost difficulty that the heavy blocks could either be got out of the Smeaton into the praams, or conveyed in safety to the Rock. It was only by the experience now acquired, and the activity of the landing-master’s crew, that any thing was done to the building during the whole of these spring-tides. Indeed the Smeaton was forced to leave her moorings, and return to Arbroath, before the whole of her last cargo could be delivered. In this state of the weather, the workmen could not be regularly employed in building; but there was so much to do with each course, in boring trenail holes, and laying railways during the time of low-water, that the artificers were always fully employed, when it was possible to land. During the period of high-water, the mill-wrights and joiners were occupied in framing the upper part of the Beacon-house.

Wednesday, 21st.

Engineer’s clerk most active in dispatching the shipping.

To-day the wind was at S.W., blowing a fresh gale, and it was not expected that the Smeaton could have possibly returned from Arbroath, with the remaining stones of the course in hand, consisting of 17 blocks, with which, from the advanced period of the season, and the boisterous state of the weather, it was proposed to terminate the building for this year. The Smeaton, however, got to Arbroath last night, at a late hour; and Mr Lachlan Kennedy, Engineer’s clerk,—whose department it was to attend to the dispatch of the vessels,—with that promptitude and zeal in the service which uniformly marked all his transactions, called the artificers in the work-yard barrack at midnight, when they commenced, with torch-light, to cart the stones to the quay, and had loaded the Smeaton, by half-past 2 A. M., so that she saved tide out of the harbour, and at half-past 6 got to her moorings at the Rock.

The unfortunate loss of James Scott, one of the seamen.

Mr Thomas Macurich, mate of the Smeaton, and James Scott, one of the crew, a young man about 18 years of age, immediately went into their boat to make fast a hawser to the ring in the top of the floating-buoy of the moorings, and were forthwith to proceed to land their cargo, so much wanted at the Rock. The tides at this period were very strong, and the mooring-chain, when sweeping the ground, had caught hold of a rock or piece of wreck, by which the chain was so shortened that when the tide flowed, the buoy got almost under water, and little more than the ring appeared at the surface. When Macurich and Scott were in the act of making the hawser fast to the ring, the chain got suddenly disentangled at the bottom, and this large buoy, measuring about 7 feet in height, and 3 feet in diameter at the middle, tapering to both ends, being what seamen term a Nun-buoy, vaulted or sprung up with such force, that it upset the boat, which instantly filled with water. Mr Macurich, with much exertion, succeeded in getting hold of the boat’s gunwale, still above the surface of the water, and by this means was saved; but the young man Scott was unfortunately drowned. He had, in all probability, been struck about the head by the ring of the buoy, for although surrounded with the oars and the thwarts of the boat which floated near him; yet he seemed entirely to want the power of availing himself of such assistance, and appeared to be quite insensible, while Pool, the master of the Smeaton, called loudly to him: and, before assistance could be got from the Tender, he was carried away by the strength of the current, and disappeared! A signal of distress was immediately hoisted, when one of the boats of the landing-master’s crew instantly attended to Macurich’s safety, and picked him up in a very exhausted state, but he happily soon recovered.

His mother gets a small annuity.

The young man Scott was a great favourite in the service, having had something uncommonly mild and complaisant in his manner; and his loss was therefore universally regretted. The circumstances of his case were also peculiarly distressing to his mother, as her husband, who was a seaman, had, for three years past, been confined to a French prison, and the deceased was the chief support of the family. In order, in some measure, to make up the loss to the poor woman for the monthly aliment regularly allowed her by her late son, it was suggested, that a younger boy, a brother of the deceased, might be taken into the service. This appeared to be rather a delicate proposition, but it was left to the landing-master to arrange according to circumstances: such was the resignation, and at the same time the spirit of the poor woman, that she readily accepted the proposal, and in a few days the younger Scott was actually afloat in the place of his brother. On representing this distressing case to the Board, the Commissioners were pleased to grant an annuity of L. 5 to Scott’s mother.

17 stones are laid. The Building operations completed for the season.

The Smeaton not having been made fast to the buoy, had, with the ebb-tide, drifted to leeward, a considerable way eastward of the Rock, and could not, till the return of the flood-tide, be worked up to her moorings, so that the present tide was lost, notwithstanding all exertions which had been made both ashore and afloat with this cargo. The artificers landed at 6 A. M., but as no materials could be got upon the Rock this morning, they were employed in boring trenail holes, and in various other operations, and after four hours’ work they returned on board the Tender. When the Smeaton got up to her moorings, the landing-master’s crew immediately began to unload her. There being too much wind for towing the praams in the usual way, they were warped to the Rock, in the most laborious manner, by their windlasses, with successive grapplings and hawsers laid out for this purpose. At 6 P. M., the artificers landed, and continued at work till half-past 10, when the remaining seventeen stones were laid, which completed the Third entire course, or Fourth of the Light-house, with which the building operations were closed for this season.

Summary of the Building operations at the Rock.

The building, being now on a level with the highest part of the margin of the foundation-pit, or about 5 feet 6 inches above the lower bed of the foundation-stone, is computed to contain about 388 tons of stone; consisting of 400 blocks, connected with 738 oaken trenails, and 1215 pairs of oaken wedges. The number of hours of low-water work upon the Rock this season, amounted to about 265, of which number only 80 were employed in building. It was further highly satisfactory to find, that the apparatus, both in the work-yard at Arbroath, and also the craft and building apparatus at the Rock, were found to answer every purpose much beyond expectation. The operations of this season, therefore, afforded the most flattering prospects of the practicability of completing the solid part, or first 30 feet of the building, in the course of another year.

Sunday, 25th.

Shipping obliged to run for Arbroath.

Owing to very heavy gales of wind from a north-eastern direction, the Sir Joseph Banks Tender, the Sloop Smeaton, and Light-house Yacht, were, on the 22d, obliged to slip their moorings, and proceed with all hands for Arbroath. The Tender and the Smeaton again returned to their stations at the Bell Rock on the 25th; the former to attend the mill-wrights, joiners, and smiths, while they completed certain operations connected with the Railways, and Beacon-house, that everything might be left in as secure a state as possible for the winter months; the crew of the Smeaton being at the same time occupied in lifting the several sets of moorings, building-cranes, and other apparatus connected with the works, which she carried to Arbroath.

Appearance of things at the Rock after the late gale.

Writer sails for the Northern Light-houses.

The writer having also sailed on the 25th in the Light-house Yacht, on his annual inspection of the Northern Light-houses, wished, in passing the Bell Rock, to have landed, but this he found impossible, owing to the heavy sea which still ran upon it. The vessel, however, sailed as near the Rock as possible, that he might, in some measure, learn the state of matters after the late gales of the 22d and 23d. He could discern that the Beacon was in good order, but found that the strong Triangular-sheers of cast-iron, represented in Plate XI., at the Eastern wharf, were thrown down and broken to pieces; and that the North-west buoy had drifted from its moorings. The circumstance of the breaking of these sheers greatly surprised the writer, as they consisted of bars of iron, whose cross section was about 10 inches; having each four longitudinal ribs, of about an inch and a half in depth, and thus forming a common circumference of 16 inches.

1808, October.

Monday 31st.

Visits the Rock on his return.

After sailing by the Orkney Islands, and visiting all the Light-houses on the coast of Scotland, the writer landed at Greenock on the 19th of October, and soon afterwards returned to the works at Arbroath. At half-past 11 A. M. on the 31st, he landed on the Bell Rock, and remained till half-past 3 P. M., examining every thing minutely, when he had the satisfaction of finding the stones and joints of the building quite entire. The Railways and Beacon were also in good order; while the moorings, and all the moveable apparatus, had been conveyed to Arbroath.