Chapter III

PHAROS FLOATING LIGHT-SHIP.—COMMENCEMENT OF THE OPERATIONS ON THE BELL-ROCK.—ERECTION OF THE BEACON-HOUSE, AND FURTHER PROGRESS OF THE LIGHT-HOUSE WORKS IN 1807.

Floating-Light.

The Act of Parliament, by which the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses were empowered to undertake the works at the Bell Rock, having only received the Royal Assent late in the month of July 1806, there was not sufficient time for making the necessary preparations for their commencement that season. But the writer, on his return from London, received instructions from the Board to have such preliminary steps in view, as would enable him to begin the operations early in the summer of 1807. This being arranged, he sailed in the month of August, on his annual voyage, for the inspection of the Northern Light-houses.

Act provides for a Floating-Light and Beacon.

The bill for the Bell Rock Light-house was drawn up, under a strong impression of the uncertainty which must attend the whole of the works at the rock, and doubts were accordingly entertained as to the estimated expence being adequate to the accomplishment of the undertaking. A clause had, therefore, been introduced, authorising the collection of the light-house duties of one penny halfpenny per register ton from British vessels, and threepence per ton from foreigners, “immediately upon mooring or anchoring a ship or vessel, and exhibiting a floating or other light, at or near the Bell Rock,” and “half the amount of the said duties respectively,” on the erection of “a proper beacon or distinguishing mark or object on the said Bell Rock.” The measures first in order were, consequently, to fit out and moor a floating-light and to erect a beacon on the Bell Rock, that shipping might derive immediate advantage from them, while the light-house was in progress; and also that the funds of the Board might, as early as possible, have the benefit of the additional duties. We therefore proceed to give an account of the outfit and mooring of this vessel, and of the erection of the beacon-house, without attending strictly to the chronological order of the works.

The writer had frequent communications with the late Captain Huddart, of the Trinity-House of London, and other nautical men, both as to the form of a vessel, and the moorings proper for a situation like the Bell Rock: here the depth of water could not be less than from seventeen to nineteen fathoms at the lowest tide, whereas, on the English coast, the depth where floating lights are, in general, moored, does not exceed seven or eight fathoms, and their moorings, consequently, much more easily managed. The writer had also visited the floating light of the Nore, at the entrance of the river Thames; and he was induced, upon the whole, to conclude, that a vessel built after the manner and construction of the Dutch fishing-doggers, would be the most suitable for riding at anchor in the open sea, and that her moorings should consist partly of an iron chain, and partly of a hempen cable.

Pharos Floating Light-ship.

Fishing Dogger purchased, and named The Pharos.

In the year 1806, a great number of vessels were taken by our cruizers, upon the coasts of Holland, Denmark, and Norway, many of which were carried into Leith to be sold. One of these, a Prussian, which happened to be captured while fishing on the Dogger Bank, was purchased for the Bell Rock service. This vessel was of a flat construction, rounded off both at the stem and stern, agreeably to the ordinary make of these doggers. She was called the Tonge Gerrit, but was afterwards named the Pharos, in allusion to the celebrated Pharos of Alexandria. She measured 67 feet in length, and 16 feet in breadth, upon deck, 8 feet depth of hold, and was 82 tons register. It was, however, only the form of her hull that fitted her for our purpose; her rigging and whole equipment having to undergo a complete alteration, for the light-house service.

Fitted out under the direction of the Trinity-House, Leith.

The establishing of a floating-light being quite new upon the coast of Scotland, and that every thing connected with this vessel might be done upon the best principles, the writer procured the assistance of Mr Joseph Webb, an experienced pilot of Yarmouth, who had attended the fitting up of one of the floating lights stationed off that coast, and who had been recommended by the Trinity Board of London as a person of skill, for instructing the master of the vessel in all the details of the service. Several of the Captains of the Trinity-House of Leith also obligingly formed themselves into a committee, and from time to time assisted in giving directions as to the necessary repairs and outfit of the vessel.

Agreeably to this arrangement, the Prussian dogger was put into one of the graving docks of Leith, in the month of March 1807, and underwent a complete examination, when it was found that she required a few new timbers in her bottom; and that to strengthen her upper works, several new beams and additional knees were necessary. Her bottom had to be new trenailed and caulked, and then sheathed with fir plank. Her ceiling, or interior lining, was also caulked, and made water-tight, in case of accident to the outer plank, in the event of her breaking adrift, and getting upon the Bell Rock. Her deck-plank and upper works were also entirely renewed; and from stem to stern, under deck, her accommodations were laid out anew. She was furnished with three masts, of a length calculated to enable her to ride with as little incumbrance as possible in a storm; the main-mast being only thirty-five feet above the deck, while the fore and mizen masts were each twenty-five feet. The rigging was also made of light cordage, and she was provided with storm-sails, to be used in the event of her breaking adrift in bad weather. By the time, therefore, that this vessel came from the hands of the carpenters, very little of the old work remained, as nothing had been omitted, which could, in any manner, add to her strength and durability. She was fitted up with births for about thirty artificers, besides her ordinary crew and officers, amounting to thirteen in number, independently of her hold for oil and stores of various descriptions. In the distribution of these, the fore-peak of the ship was allotted for the sailors; the waist for the artificers; and galley appropriated to the cooking of the victuals. Next to this, a large cabin was set off for the master, mate, and principal light-keeper, and for the foremen of the works; while the after or stern part of the ship formed a cabin for the use of the engineer.

Peculiar construction of Lanterns.

The Pharos was furnished with a large copper lantern for each mast, containing ten lamps, with small silver-plated reflectors, ranged upon a chandelier, moveable at pleasure, in a horizontal direction, for the conveniency of turning the lamps to trim them and clean the reflectors. To make the vessel ride as easily as possible, in a situation so exposed, the lanterns were made of a peculiar construction, so as to screw together upon the masts, in two pieces, longitudinally, as represented in Plate X., Figs. 1, 2, and 3. By these means, the light could be seen in every direction, without the necessity of suspending them in the usual manner from yards, or other weighty apparatus, which tend not only to obscure the light, but also to make the ship ride heavily in bad weather.

Construction of Moorings.

The moorings of the floating light consisted of a large mushroom anchor, of cast-iron, weighing about a ton and a half, and made with a shank and head, resembling in form, as nearly as may be, the vegetable from which it takes its name. This anchor was made with a malleable iron shank, but latterly these mushroom anchors were made wholly of cast-iron, as represented in Plate X., Fig. 4. A chain of fifty fathoms in length, was attached to the anchor, made of inch and half bars of iron, to which a hempen cable, of 14 inches in circumference, and 120 fathoms in length, was connected, to be veered out according to the state of the weather.

Pharos is towed to the Roads.

The Pharos being ready for sea, was, on the 9th of July, towed out of the harbour of Leith to the Roads, by the Light-house Yacht, a cutter-rigged vessel attached to the general service of the Northern Light-houses. The Yacht had the Pharos’ moorings on board, and was appointed to conduct her to the Bell Rock, and lay them down. A curious enough circumstance took place, when the crew of the floating-light was mustered, before leaving the harbour: two of the seamen having taken alarm, at the destination of the ship, and the nature of the service in which they were about to embark, suddenly turned about, and, to the great surprise of their comrades, ran with the utmost precipitation from the ship; to which they never again returned. Their places, however, were supplied with others, without much inconvenience.

Committee of the Trinity-House go to the Bell Rock.

As the gentlemen of the Trinity-house of Leith, had all along taken a particular interest in the fitting out of the floating-light, the Commissioners requested their assistance in fixing upon the precise spot in which she should be moored, for the direction of ships passing the Bell Rock. This they readily complied with, suggesting, at the same time, that some of the shipmasters of Arbroath, who were locally acquainted with the coast, should also be invited to give their opinion and advice upon this point. A few of the most experienced ship-masters and merchants of Arbroath were accordingly invited to come off, when the floating light should make her appearance in their neighbourhood. Matters being thus arranged, the writer went on board of the Light-house Yacht, on the 10th, accompanied by Mr Thomas Grindlay, master of the Trinity-house of Leith, with Mr John Hay, and Mr Thomas Ritchie, Assistant-Masters.

Pharos sails for the Bell Rock.

At 8 A. M. the Pharos got under way in Leith Roads, and sailed for her station at the Bell Rock, under the command of Mr George Sinclair, with a crew of twelve in number. But as she sailed very heavily, the Yacht, with her party, did not follow till noon, and about 2 P. M. came up with her, and took her in tow, when it came to blow fresh breezes from SW. At 6, both vessels anchored for the night on the eastern side of the Isle of May, as, by continuing our course, we should have reached the Bell Rock under night, which was then an object of terror to every seaman, and must have been attended with danger, from its then undistinguished state.

Committee from Arbroath join the party.

While the Yacht and Pharos lay at anchor at the Isle of May, Mr David Balfour, Mr Andrew Duncan, Mr David Cargill, Mr John Fleming, and Mr William Kidd, as a Committee from Arbroath, having hired a vessel, left that place in the morning, and hailed the Yacht, soon after she came to an anchor, when some of their party joined us on board. As the accommodations of the floating light were very ample, having only the ship’s company on board, it was proposed that the whole party should meet in her, and pass the night; but she rolled from side to side, in so extraordinary a manner, that even the most sea-hardy of our number were content to remain in a state of separation, rather than accept of the best birth in the floating light. It was humorously observed of this vessel, “that she was in some danger of making a round turn, and appearing with her keel uppermost.” Another said, “she would roll out her masts;” and a third that she would “even turn a halfpenny, if laid upon deck.” These, and such like remarks, afforded much pleasantry on board of the Light-house Yacht, and were suggested by the manner in which the Pharos rolled and yawed about, when compared with the more easy motion of the other vessels. Being then in light ballast trim to fit her for riding in bad weather, and very flat in the bottom, the smallest wave set her in motion, when at anchor; and when under way, she was little better, for she answered the helm with so much difficulty, that a large decked Praam-boat, which she had in tow, was upset in the passage from Leith. The writer is the more particular on this subject, as the rolling motion of the floating-light became proverbial in the Light-house service, and continued a source of much trouble and uneasiness to all concerned, especially while she was used as a tender or store-ship for the works.

Pharos anchors in a temporary birth.

Early in the morning of the 11th, the vessels left their anchorage at the Isle of May, and sailed for the Bell Rock; but on reaching it, in the course of the forenoon, the wind came to the eastward, accompanied with thick hazy weather, and drizzling showers of rain, which so completely hid the distant landmarks from view, that there was a necessity for ordering the Pharos to come to an anchor with her best bower, on the smoothest spot of ground that could be found, until a change of weather should admit of her being moored in a proper manner. The weather afterwards became so foggy that every object was lost sight of. The vessel which had brought our friends from Arbroath, put into that harbour in the course of the evening, but the Light-house Yacht kept at sea till the morning of the 12th, when it came to blow so fresh, that she also went into that harbour, to wait a change of weather. On the 14th, it improved, and the Yacht again sailed for the Bell Rock. On returning to the floating light, we were happy to find that all was well on board, though Mr Sinclair and Mr Webb, the pilot, complained that their anchorage was not very good, as the bottom was hard, and the soundings or particles brought up with the lead exhibited sharp coral and coarse gravel. After plying about for some time with the Yacht, and sounding in every direction, a place was at length fixed upon, about a mile and a half in a north-westerly direction from the Bell Rock. The Yacht, as before noticed, having on board the floating-light’s moorings, anchored on the spot most approved of for laying them down.

In laying down her Moorings, the whole chain goes overboard.

Some arrangements having been made among the nautical gentlemen, as to the precise mode of going about this operation, it was resolved to suspend the mushroom anchor over the gunwale of the Yacht, and before letting it into the water, to bring the greater part of the chain upon deck, taking the precaution to make the further end of it fast to the lower part of the mast, in the vessel’s hold, with a very strong and perfectly new stopper, or piece of rope, measuring 7 inches in circumference. It was not doubted but that this strong rope would have held the chain against any strain that might have been brought upon it, in the process of letting down the moorings. But the mushroom-anchor was no sooner let go from the ship’s tackle, than the part of the chain which had been coiled upon deck went overboard with such velocity, that it communicated a similar impetus to the remainder of the chain in the hold, and the strain coming ultimately upon the stopper, snapped through the several parts which fixed the end of the chain to the mast, and, consequently, the whole went to the bottom with the mushroom-anchor.

Moorings recovered with great difficulty.

This untoward circumstance greatly disconcerted and embarrassed the operations of mooring the floating-light, as the chain had now to be fished or hooked at the bottom, and raised from the depth of seventeen fathoms. After many trials, we at length succeeded in hooking it with a grappling-iron, but as it happened to lay hold only a few fathoms from the anchor, it required all the purchase-blocks and tackle of the Yacht and Pharos to raise it: for the weight, including the anchor, and so large a portion of the chain, could not be less than about three tons. This operation was begun at mid-day, and, although the united force of the crews of both ships was fully mustered, it was not till two o’clock on the following morning,—being a period of fourteen hours,—that the moorings were got up, and the Pharos brought alongside of the Yacht, to receive the hempen cable, which was made fast to the clinch, or great ring, connected with the chain moorings. The weather was fortunately the most favourable that could have been desired for this operation; and it is impossible for the writer to describe the anxiety and exertions of all on board in getting this matter adjusted. Were he to judge by his own feelings, he has no doubt that all on board would join in saying, that it was one of the most painfully laborious days they had spent in the course of their existence. For the space of about twenty hours, the crews of both ships had never been off deck, and during twelve of these the hand-spike, or the tackle, had not been five minutes together out of their hands, as the refreshments which they got were served up at the windlass. The same observations are literally applicable to the gentlemen of the quarter-deck, who divided their attention severally to the different tackles and purchases employed in raising the moorings.

The perplexing and tedious business of mooring the floating-light having been happily got over, it was judged necessary to see how she would ride at anchor for a time, before advertising the light to the public. The writer accordingly returned on board in the course of three weeks, and examined the moorings, which were found in good order. The anchorage ground was also considered of a very proper description, in so far as observations, made during a tract of favourable weather, had afforded the means of judging. The vessel lay in an excellent position for the direction of shipping; and being at this time only about a mile from the Bell Rock, her situation as a hulk or store-ship for the light-house operations, was as favourable as the relative position of the rock would admit. In this state of things, notice to the following effect was given in the newspapers, for the direction of mariners, and along with a copy of the notice, a chart or sketch of the opposite coast was sent to the different Custom-houses.

Description of the Floating-Light.

“In virtue of an Act of Parliament of the 46th year of Geo. III. chap. 132. authorising the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses to erect a Light-house on the Bell Rock, to place a floating light there, and to collect duties thereupon,—notice is hereby given, that a vessel, fitted out for a floating-light, is now moored off the Cape or Bell Rock, situate at the entrance of the Friths of Forth and Tay, in North Lat. 56° 27´, and West Long. 2° 27´.

“The moorings of the floating-light consist of a mushroom anchor, and chain, laid down in 17 fathoms water, the Bell Rock bearing, by compass, E. S. E. distant one mile; the Red Head, N. by E. ¼ E. distant thirteen miles; Fifeness, S. W. ¾ W. distant twelve miles; and the island of May S. W. ¾ S. distant seventeen miles.

“A light from oil, with reflectors, will be exhibited upon the night of the 15th day of September 1807, and thereafter every night, from the going away of day-light in the evening, till the return of day-light in the morning. To distinguish this light from the double lights at the entrance of the Firth of Tay, and on the Scares off the coast of Northumberland, and also from the single light on the Island of May, three distinct lights will be shown from the Bell Rock Floating-light, by a lantern hoisted to the top of each mast, which will be visible from every point of the compass, at the distance of from two to three leagues; the lanterns on the fore and mizen masts being elevated 23 feet, and that on the main mast 31 feet, above the vessel’s deck; the lights, when seen from either side of the ship, have the appearance of a triangle, but if seen end-on, they appear as two lights, the one above the other.

“This vessel is called the Pharos; she was formerly a fishing dogger, and appears like a ship under jury masts; during the day-time, a blue flag, with a light-house in the field, will be displayed from the main-mast; and, in thick and foggy weather, a bell will be tolled, night and day, on board, with an interval of about one minute.

“Although this vessel has been fitted out in the completest manner, and every attention paid to mooring her properly, yet, as all floating-lights are liable to break adrift in tempestuous weather, mariners are requested not to neglect their landmarks, and to run with caution for the floating-light.

“The Pharos being also intended to answer the purpose of a store-ship, while the light-house is building on the Bell Rock, it may be found necessary, in the course of the works, to alter her present station, of which due notice will be given.”

Commencement of the Operations on the Bell Rock.

1807, August.

As the commencement of works of masonry, requiring stones of large dimensions, is unavoidably tedious, especially in the collecting of materials, we shall at present only notice, that the Light-house Board having resolved on the use partly of granite and partly of sandstone, for the erection at the Bell Rock, measures were duly taken for procuring a supply of the former from the quarry of Rubeslaw near Aberdeen, and of the latter from Mylnefield near Dundee. But, instead of following out this part of our subject in its order, we shall first proceed to a detail of the operations afloat, as they may be termed, or of the works upon the rock itself, during the season of 1807,—particularly of the erection of the principal beams of the beacon-house, or temporary residence for the artificers on the rock, and of the progress made in the preparation of the foundation or site of the main building.

Sloop Smeaton.

We therefore observe, that a vessel had been built at Leith, in the course of the spring, expressly for the Bell Rock service, to be employed as a tender for the floating-light, and as a stone-lighter for the use of the work. This vessel was launched in the month of June; she measured 40 tons register, was rigged as a sloop, and fitted in all respects in the strongest manner, to adapt her as much as possible for the perilous service in which she was to be employed. She was called The Smeaton,—a name which the writer had great pleasure in suggesting, as a mark of respect for the memory of the celebrated engineer of the Eddystone Light-house, whose narrative was to become a kind of text-book for the Bell Rock operations. The Smeaton was ready for sea in the beginning of August, and reached Arbroath upon the 5th day of that month. Arbroath being the most contiguous harbour to the Bell Rock, naturally pointed out itself as the proper place for establishing the works, and preparing the materials, before shipping them for the rock. The writer had, accordingly, been here for some time, making the necessary preparations; and when the Smeaton arrived, he found himself in a condition for commencing the operations, in a systematic manner, upon the rock itself.

The Positions of the Light-House and Beacon fixed on.

The floating-light rode in safety at her moorings, and had hitherto been supplied with necessaries by the Yacht belonging to the general service of the Light-house Board. In this vessel, occasional trips had also been made to the rock; but on the arrival of the Smeaton, the Yacht sailed on a voyage, with stores for the use of the Northern Light-houses. In these preliminary trips, the writer had fixed, in his own mind, upon the parts of the rock most favourable for the position of the light-house, and on the south-west of it, he chose the site of the beacon-house, that it might be sheltered, in some measure, from the breach of the north-east sea; and by placing them contiguous, or about twenty-five feet apart, they admitted of a ready communication with each other in the more advanced stages of the work.

1807, 7th August.

First trip of the Artificers to the Bell Rock.

The Smeaton having got on board necessaries for the floating-light, and three sets of chain-moorings with mushroom-anchors, and large floating buoys, the writer sailed on another preliminary visit to the Bell Rock on the 7th day of August, carrying with him Mr Peter Logan, foreman builder, and five artificers, selected, on this occasion, from their having been somewhat accustomed to the sea; the writer being aware of the distressing trial which the floating-light would necessarily inflict upon landsmen, from her rolling motion. Here he remained till the 10th, and as the weather was favourable, a landing was effected daily, when the workmen were employed in cutting the large sea-weed from the sites of the light-house and beacon, which were respectively traced with pick-axes upon the rock. In the mean time, the crew of the Smeaton was employed in laying down the several sets of moorings within about half a mile of the rock, for the conveniency of vessels riding at the buoys by a hawser, instead of letting go an anchor, which, in that situation, could seldom have been purchased or lifted again, as it would constantly have hooked the rocky bottom, a disadvantage to which the mushroom anchor, from its figure and construction, is not liable, as will be understood by examining the diagram representing it in Plate X. Fig. 4. The artificers having fortunately experienced moderate weather, returned to the work-yard at Arbroath, with a good report of their treatment afloat; when their comrades ashore began to feel some anxiety to see a place of which they had heard so much, and to change the constant operation with the iron and mallet in the process of hewing, for an occasional tide’s work on the rock, which they figured to themselves as a state of comparative ease and comfort.

Rate of Artificers’ wages fixed on.

In answer to some advances which had been made on this subject by the artificers, the foreman was instructed to select fourteen of the stone-cutters, who had been accustomed to the use of the pick-axe, and to boring or drilling holes with a jumper, after the manner of quarriers, to go off to the rock in the course of a few days. When these men, however, came to be spoken to more closely, some of them were disposed to hold their services rather at a high rate, demanding two guineas per week if they were to find their own provisions, and L. 1, 10s. if provisions were found to them. But they were informed, that the nominal rate of wages was to be L. 1 per week, being the same for those employed at the rock, as for those in the work-yard at Arbroath. The artificers at the rock were, in addition, to have their provisions, with certain premiums, to be arranged in the further progress of the work, particularly for each tide’s work on Sunday, which was to be accounted and paid for as a day’s work. After a good deal of trouble, two or three of the men acceded to the foreman’s proposals, others refused to engage themselves, excepting at the highest rate; while a third party objected only to working on Sunday. In any agreement to be entered into, it was held as an express condition, “That every man who embarked for the work at the Bell Rock, should remain for the space of four weeks, without returning ashore.” Those chiefly wanted at this time were masons from Aberdeen, who were accustomed to the use of the boring-iron and pick, in working granite. Being engaged only from week to week in the work-yard, they were desirous of knowing the reason for remaining a month at the rock; when they were informed that it was not unlikely some of them might suffer from sea sickness, and wearying of confinement on board of ship, might wish to return ashore, which would be attended with much inconveniency to the work, by too frequent a change of hands. They were further told, that, by continuing for one month afloat, they would, in the course of that time, become so sea-hardy as probably to feel no desire to return till the end of the working-season, which, at this advanced period, could not last for many weeks. This condition was considered of importance in the commencement of the work, and it was the more readily agreed to, as the writer assured them that he should himself remain with them during that period. As one condition, however, had been made to the Aberdeen masons, they felt no hesitation in proposing another on their own part, and they accordingly handed the following offer of service, addressed to the foreman, dated 12th August 1807, which, from the tenor of the document, we shall here insert.

Letter from the Aberdeen Masons.

“In consequence of our communing with one another concerning the Bell Rock, we hereby agree to stay with you from the above date, till August 1808, being twelve months certain, and to take our turn at whatever work may start up concerning the Bell Rock business,—only, it is to be understood, that the rest of the masons must take turn and turn about with us: the terms of our agreement to be 20s. per week, summer and winter, wet and dry, with free quarters ashore, and likewise our victuals when we are at the rock.—As for the Sunday’s work and premiums, we leave that to the honour of our employers. (Signed) William Bonyman, John Bruce, John Cruickshanks, Alexander Sherif, John Bonyman, Alexander Davidson, James Macdonald, Robert Ferres, John Mason, William Chalmers.”

Every thing being arranged for sailing to the rock on Saturday the 15th, the vessel might have proceeded on the Sunday; but understanding that this would not be so agreeable to the artificers it was deferred until Monday. Here we cannot help observing, that the men allotted for the operations at the rock seemed to enter upon the undertaking with a degree of consideration, which fully marked their opinion as to the hazardous nature of the undertaking on which they were about to enter. They went in a body to church on Sunday, and whether it was in the ordinary course, or designed for the occasion, the writer is not certain, but the service was, in many respects, suitable to their circumstances. Indeed, the Reverend Mr Gleg, the minister of the parish, was in the constant habit of enquiring after the success and safety of the works. Throughout this day the weather was remarkably serene, and the best hopes were entertained of a favourable tract of weather, which the inhabitants of Arbroath were disposed to consider as an omen of good fortune.

Monday, 17th.

Twenty-four Artificers embark for the Rock.

The tide happening to fall late in the evening of Monday the 17th, the party, counting twenty-four in number, embarked on board of the Smeaton about 10 o’clock P. M., and sailed from Arbroath with a gentle breeze at west. Our ship’s colours having been flying all day in compliment to the commencement of the work, the other vessels in the harbour also saluted, which made a very gay appearance. A number of the friends and acquaintances of those on board having been thus collected, the piers, though at a late hour, were perfectly crowded, and just as the Smeaton cleared the harbour, all on board united in giving three hearty cheers, which were returned by those on shore in such good earnest, that, in the still of the evening, the sound must have been heard in all parts of the town, re-echoing from the walls and lofty turrets of the venerable Abbey of Aberbrothwick. The writer felt much satisfaction at the manner of this parting scene; though he must own, that the present rejoicing was, on his part, mingled with occasional reflections upon the responsibility of his situation, which extended to the safety of all who should be engaged in this perilous work. With such sensations he retired to his cabin; but as the artificers were rather inclined to move about the deck than to remain in their confined births below, his repose was transient, and the vessel being small, every motion was necessarily heard. Some who were musically inclined occasionally sung; but he listened with peculiar pleasure to the sailor at the helm, who hummed over Dibdin’s characteristic air,

Erection of the Beacon-House.

The weather had been very gentle all night, and, about four in the morning of the 18th, the Smeaton anchored on the spot where it was intended to lay down an additional set of chain-moorings which she had on board. Agreeably to an arranged plan of operations, all hands were called at 5 o’clock, A. M., just as the highest part of the Bell Rock began to shew its sable head among the light breakers, which occasionally whitened with the foaming sea. The two boats belonging to the floating-light attended the Smeaton, to carry the artificers to the rock, as her boat could only accommodate about six or eight sitters. Every one was more eager than his neighbour to leap into the boats, and it required a good deal of management on the part of the coxswains, to get men unaccustomed to a boat, to take their places for rowing and at the same time trimming her properly. The landing-master and foreman went into one boat, while the writer took charge of another, and steered it to and from the rock. This became the more necessary in the early stages of the work, as places could not be spared for more than two, or at most three seamen to each boat, who were always stationed, one at the bow, to use the boat-hook in fending or pushing off, and the other at the aftermost oar, to give the proper time in rowing, while the middle oars were double banked, and rowed by the artificers.

Tuesday, 18th.

Commence work at 6 A. M.

As the weather was extremely fine, with light airs of wind from the east, we landed without difficulty upon the central part of the rock at half-past 5, but the water had not yet sufficiently left it for commencing the work. This interval, however, did not pass unoccupied; the first and last of all the principal operations at the Bell Rock were accompanied by three hearty cheers from all hands, and, on occasions like the present, the steward of the ship attended, when each man was regaled with a glass of rum. As the water left the rock about 6, some began to bore the holes for the great bats or holdfasts, for fixing the beams of the Beacon-house, while the smith was fully attended in laying out the site of his forge, upon a somewhat sheltered spot of the rock, which also recommended itself from the vicinity of a pool of water for tempering his irons. These preliminary steps occupied about an hour, and as nothing further could be done during this tide towards fixing the forge, the workmen gratified their curiosity, by roaming about the rock, which they investigated with great eagerness till the tide overflowed it. Those who had been sick picked dulse (Fucus palmatus), which they ate with much seeming appetite; others were more intent upon collecting limpets for bait, to enjoy the amusement of fishing when they returned on board of the vessel. Indeed none came away empty handed, as every thing found upon the Bell Rock was considered valuable, being connected with some interesting association. Several coins, and numerous bits of shipwrecked iron were picked up, of almost every description; and, in particular, a marking-iron lettered James,—a circumstance of which it was thought proper to give notice to the public, as it might lead to the knowledge of some unfortunate shipwreck, perhaps unheard of till this simple occurrence led to the discovery. When the rock began to be overflowed, the landing-master arranged the crews of the respective boats, appointing twelve persons to each. According to a rule, which the writer had laid down to himself, he was always the last person who left the rock. Another maxim was, to allow the landing-master’s boat to proceed about twice or three times her own length a-head of the other boats, that in case of accident he might be ready to assist; and when he had thus cleared the rock, he waited till the others got out of the respective creeks; after which they proceeded in company. Upon the present occasion, the boats reached the tender about half-past 8, after having been two hours upon the rock, and three hours absent from the ship.

In a short time, the Bell Rock was laid completely under water, and the weather being extremely fine, the sea was so smooth, that its place could not be pointed out from the appearance of the surface,—a circumstance which sufficiently demonstrates the dangerous nature of this rock, even during the day, and in the smoothest and calmest state of the sea. During the interval between the morning and the evening tides, the artificers were variously employed in fishing and reading, others were busy in drying and adjusting their wet clothes, and one or two amused their companions with the violin and German-flute.

Method of fixing iron-bats into the Rock.

About 7 in the evening the signal bell for landing on the rock was again rung, when every man was at his quarters. In this service it was thought more appropriate to use the bell than to pipe to quarters, as the use of this instrument is less known to the mechanic than the sound of the bell. The landing, as in the morning, was at the eastern harbour. During this tide, the sea-weed was pretty well cleared from the site of the operations, and also from the tracks leading to the different landing-places; for walking upon the rugged surface of the Bell Rock, when covered with sea-weed, was found to be extremely difficult, and even dangerous. Every hand that could possibly be occupied, was now employed in assisting the smith to fit up the apparatus for his forge. The frame-work of iron, forming the hearth, was now got into its place; and the four legs which supported it were let into holes, bored from six to twelve inches into the rock, according to the inequalities of the site: and then firmly wedged, first with wood, and then with iron, a method followed in all the operations of batting at the Bell Rock, and found greatly preferable to running in melted lead. The block of timber for supporting the anvil was fixed in the same manner, on which the anvil was simply laid, without any other fixture than the small stud, fitted as usual into its seat, depending upon the gravity of the mass for preserving its place against the effects of the sea. In this state things were left on the rock at 9 P. M., when the boats returned to the tender, after other two hours work, in the same order as formerly, perhaps as much gratified with the success that attended the work of this day, as with any other in the whole course of the operations. Although it could not be said that the fatigues of this day had been great, yet all on board retired early to rest. The sea being calm, and no movement on deck, it was pretty generally remarked in the morning, that the bell awakened the greater number on board from their first sleep; and, though this observation was not altogether applicable to the writer himself, yet he was not a little pleased to find, that thirty people could all at once become so reconciled to a night’s quarters within a few hundred paces of the Bell Rock.

Wednesday, 19th.

Landing-master’s duty.

It was a rule laid down and adhered to by the writer, throughout the whole of the Bell Rock works, that, as far as possible, the charge should be arranged into departments. It therefore fell to the officer termed the Landing-master, who was also master of the Floating-light, to take the responsibility of the safe and proper landing of the artificers and materials upon the rock. With him, the writer generally arranged the business of the following day; his crew watched the ebbing of the water, and the appearance of the rock, and from the state of the weather, he judged of the proper time for causing the signal bell to be rung, when the boats were to leave the ship for the rock. It was also a special injunction laid upon him to say, from the state of the weather, when it was necessary for the boats to leave the rock and return to the tender.

Indications of the weather.

Being extremely anxious at this time to get forward with fixing the smith’s forge, on which the progress of the work at present depended, the writer requested that he might be called at day-break to learn the landing-master’s opinion of the weather, from the appearance of the rising sun, a criterion by which experienced seamen can generally judge pretty accurately of the state of the weather for the following day. About 5 o’clock, on coming upon deck, the sun’s upper limb or disk had just begun to appear, as if rising from the ocean; and in less than a minute he was seen in the fullest splendour; but after a short interval he was enveloped in a soft cloudy sky, which was considered emblematical of fine weather. His rays had not yet sufficiently dispelled the clouds which hid the land from view, and the Bell Rock being still overflowed, the whole was one expanse of water. This scene in itself was highly gratifying; and when the morning bell was tolled, we were gratified with the happy forebodings of good weather, and the expectation of having both a morning and an evening tide’s work on the rock.

Wednesday, 19th.

The boats left the ship at a quarter before 7 this morning, and landed upon the rock at 7. The water had gone off the rock sooner than was expected, for, as yet, the seamen were but imperfectly acquainted with its periodic appearance, and the landing-master being rather late with his signal this morning, the artificers were enabled to proceed to work without a moment’s delay. The boat which the writer steered happened to be the last which approached the rock at this tide; and, in standing up in the stern, while at some distance, to see how the leading boat entered the creek, he was astonished to observe something in the form of a human figure, in a reclining posture, upon one of the ledges of the rock: he immediately steered the boat through a narrow entrance to the eastern harbour, with a thousand unpleasant sensations in his mind. He thought a vessel or boat must have been wrecked upon the rock during the night; and it seemed probable that the rock might be strewed with dead bodies, a spectacle which could not fail to deter the artificers from returning so freely to their work. Even one individual found in this situation, would naturally cast a damp upon their minds, and, at all events, make them much more timid in their future operations. In the midst of these reveries, the boat took the ground at an improper landing place; but, without waiting to push her off, he leapt upon the rock, and making his way hastily to the spot which had privately given him alarm, he had the satisfaction to ascertain, that he had only been deceived by the peculiar situation and aspect of the smith’s anvil and block, which very completely represented the appearance of a lifeless body upon the rock. The writer carefully suppressed his feelings, the simple mention of which might have had a bad effect upon the artificers, and his haste passed for an anxiety to examine the apparatus of the smith’s forge, left in an unfinished state at the evening tide.

Dangerous situation in foggy weather.

After an excellent tide’s work of three hours at the forge, and boring the bat-holes for fixing the Beacon-house, we again took to our boats, and left the rock at 10 o’clock, the one boat preceding and waiting for the other till it cleared the rock, as formerly. In the course of this morning’s work, two or three apparently distant peals of thunder were heard, and the atmosphere suddenly became thick and foggy. But as the Smeaton, our present tender, was moored at no great distance from the rock, the crew on board continued blowing with a horn, and occasionally fired a musket, so that the boats got to the ship without difficulty. The occurrence of thick weather, however, became a serious consideration, in looking forward to the necessary change of quarters to the Pharos, distant about one mile from the rock, instead of a few hundred yards, as in the case of the Smeaton.

Artificers amuse themselves with fishing.

The continuation of the thick and foggy weather was transient, being what seamen term an easterly hoar, arising from the heat of the weather, which disappeared soon after mid-day. The weather being clear in the evening, the boats landed again at half-past 6 o’clock, when the artificers were employed for two hours, as in the morning, and returned again to the ship about a quarter past 8. The remainder of the day-light was eagerly spent in catching fish, which were got, at this time, in great abundance, both alongside of the vessel and in the boats at a distance; and in the course of an hour about five dozen of codlings were caught, which not only afforded an agreeable relaxation, but afforded a plentiful dish of fish for the different messes on board.

Thursday, 20th.

Complete the fixing of the smith’s forge.

The wind this morning inclined from the north-east, and the sky had a heavy and cloudy appearance, but the sea was smooth, though there was an undulating motion on the surface, which indicated easterly winds, and occasioned a slight surf upon the rock. But the boats found no difficulty in landing at the western creek at half-past 7, and, after a good tide’s work, left it again about a quarter from 11. In the evening the artificers landed at half-past 7, and continued till half-past 8, having completed the fixing of the smith’s forge, his vice, and a wooden board or bench, which were also batted to a ledge of the rock, to the great joy of all, under a salute of three hearty cheers. From an oversight on the part of the smith, who had neglected to bring his tinder-box and matches from the vessel, the work was prevented from being continued for at least an hour longer.

Valuable services of the smith at the Bell Rock.

It may here be proper to notice, that although a considerable quantity of jumpers or boring-irons, picks, and other quarry-tools, had been brought, in good order, for the use of the work; yet, from the extent of work in preparing the foundations, together with the hard and compact nature of the sandstone, of which the Bell Rock is composed, the tools soon became blunt, and the work must have often been completely at a stand, had it not been for the conveniency of having a smith and his forge so near at hand. The writer doubts not that his readers may be at a loss to account for the operation of the bellows and other apparatus upon a sunken rock, and it may therefore be necessary, in the accompanying description of the plates of this work, to give some explanation of this

arcanum

of Vulcan, on which the work had so great a dependence. The smith’s shop, represented in

Plate XI.

was of course in

open space

: the large bellows were carried to and from the rock every tide, for the serviceable condition of which, together with the tinder-box, fuel and embers of the former fire, the smith was held responsible. Those who have been placed in situations to feel the inconveniency and want of this useful artizan, will be able to appreciate his value in a case like the present.

Much wanted at the Eddystone.

Mr Smeaton often felt the want of a forge permanently upon the rock, and had the foundation of the Eddystone Light-house required more extensive preparations, this useful implement could hardly have been dispensed with; but the Eddystone rock was so small as hardly to have room for it, in addition to other no less necessary apparatus. Could the operations of the blacksmith, at the Bell Rock, have been continued, from the commencement of the operations, even for half an hour longer every tide than the pickmen or quarriers, it would have added much to the facilities and progress of the work. But a stage or platform, in that case, must have been erected, to which there were a number of intervening obstacles, that more than counter-balanced the temporary inconveniency felt from the want of this additional time. It often happened, to our annoyance and disappointment, in the early state of the work, when the smith was in the middle of a

favourite heat

, in making some useful article, or in sharpening the tools, after the flood-tide had obliged the pickmen to strike work, a sea would come rolling over the rocks, dash out the fire, and endanger his indispensable implement the bellows; or if the sea was smooth, while the smith often stood at work knee-deep in water, the tide rose by imperceptible degrees, first cooling the exterior of the fire-place, or hearth, and then quietly blackening and extinguishing the fire from below. The writer has frequently been amused at the perplexing anxiety of the blacksmith, when coaxing his fire, and endeavouring to avert the effects of the rising tide. In this state of things, the erection of the Beacon was looked forward to as a happy period, when the smith should be removed above the reach of the highest tides.

Friday, 21st.

Seals desert the Bell Rock.

The weather still continued to be very fine; though the winds were variable, they rather prevailed from the eastward, and were occasionally accompanied with a hazy atmosphere, inclining to fog. The boats landed to-day upon the rock at half-past 7 o’clock A. M., and left it at a quarter past 11, the artificers having had an excellent tide’s work of three hours and three-quarters. Every thing connected with the forge being now completed, the artificers found no want of sharp tools, and the work went forward with great alacrity and spirit. It was also alleged that the rock had a more habitable appearance, from the volumes of smoke which ascended from the smith’s shop; and the busy noise of his anvil; the operations of the masons; the movements of the boats, and shipping at a distance, all contributed to give life and activity to the scene. This noise and traffic had, however, the effect of almost completely banishing the herd of seals which had hitherto frequented the rock as a resting place, during the period of low water. Though these animals were thus prevented from reposing upon the higher parts of the rock, yet they ventured, for a time, to lie upon the more detached outlayers which dry partially: here they seemed to look with that sort of curiosity which is observable in these animals when following a boat. But after the smith established himself, it was rare to see more than one or two of these amphibious animals about the rock, which seemed to be peculiarly adapted to their habits; for, excepting two or three days at neap tides, a part of it always dries at low water, at least during the summer season; and as there was good fishing ground in the neighbourhood, without a human being to disturb or molest them, it had become a very favourite residence of the seal, if we may judge from their numbers, the writer having occasionally counted from fifty to sixty of these animals playing about the rock at a time. But when they came to be disturbed every tide, and their seclusion was broke in upon by the kindling of great fires, together, with the beating of hammers and picks during low water, after hovering about for a time, they changed their place, and seldom more than one or two were to be seen about the rock. The writer felt a desire to protect these animals, with a view to observe their habits, and in hopes of taming them, at least so far as he had observed was done at the Small’s Light-house, off the coast of Pembrokeshire, another favourite resort of seals, where, by gentle treatment, they have become so tame and familiar as to eat bread out of the hands of the light-keepers. But here, indeed, they constantly find a resting place, as some of the Small’s rocks are always above water.

Progress of the work.

We had now been six days out from Arbroath, and, in that time, had the good fortune to have seven successive tides’ work upon the rock, during which, the smith’s forge had been fixed, and twelve holes of 2 inches in diameter and 18 inches in depth, had been bored or drilled into the rock, in the process of excavating the bat or stanchion-holes for fixing the principal beams of the Beacon-house. Hitherto the artificers had remained on board of the Smeaton, which was made fast to one of the mooring buoys, at the distance only of about a quarter of a mile from the rock, and of course a very great conveniency to the work. Being so near, the seamen could never be mistaken as to the progress of the tide, or state of the sea upon the rock, nor could the boats be much at a loss to pull on board of the vessel during fog, or even in very rough weather; as she could be cast loose from her moorings at pleasure, and brought to the lee side of the rock. But the Smeaton being only about forty register tons, her accommodations were extremely limited.

Hampered state of the artificers.

It may, therefore, be easily imagined, that an addition of twenty-four persons to her own crew, must have rendered the situation of those on board rather uncomfortable. This vessel served as a tender only in fine weather, with the assistance of the boats of the floating-light, for she could not stow boats sufficiently large for attending the rock with such a complement of artificers. The only place for the men’s hammocks on board being in the hold, they were unavoidably much crowded; and if the weather had required the hatches to be fastened down, so great a number of men could not possibly have been accommodated. To add to this evil, the

co-boose

or cooking place being upon deck, it would not have been possible to have cooked for so large a company in the event of bad weather.

The stock of water was now getting short, and some necessaries being also wanted for the floating-light, the Smeaton was dispatched for Arbroath; and the writer with the artificers, at the same time, shifted their quarters from her to the floating-light.

Saturday, 22d.

Inconveniencies of the Pharos as a tender.

The operations still continued to be favoured with pleasant weather; to-day there were light airs of wind from south-east, and the morning bell was rung at 6. Although the rock barely made its appearance at this period of the tides till 8 o’clock, yet, having now a full mile to row from the floating-light to the rock, instead of about a quarter of a mile from the moorings of the Smeaton, it was necessary to be earlier astir, and to form different arrangements; breakfast was accordingly served up at 7 o’clock this morning. From the excessive motion of the floating-light, the writer had looked forward rather with anxiety to the removal of the workmen to this ship. Some among them, who had been congratulating themselves upon having become sea-hardy while on board of the Smeaton, had a complete relapse on returning to the floating-light. This was also the case with the writer. From the spacious and convenient birthage of the floating-light, the exchange to the artificers was, in this respect, much for the better. The boats were also commodious, measuring sixteen feet in length on the keel, so that, in fine weather, their complement of sitters was sixteen persons for each, with which, however, they were rather crowded, but she could not stow two boats of larger dimensions. When there was what is called a breeze of wind, and a swell in the sea, the proper number for each boat could not, with propriety, be rated at more than twelve persons.

The act of getting into or out of a boat, when alongside of the floating-light, was at all times attended with more or less difficulty; her rolling motion was so great, that the gunwale, though about five feet above the surface of the water, she dipped nearly into it, upon the one side, while her keel could not be far from the surface on the other. This was her state, even in moderate weather, in certain directions of the wind, especially for the period of about an hour, when she was thwarting to the tide, or rode in what sailors call the trough of the sea. The act of getting on board was then attended with great difficulty, even to seamen, and was particularly so to landmen, requiring all the attention which the landing-master could bestow, in getting the artificers safely transferred from the boats to the ship, and vice versa.

Difficulty of getting on board and leaving the Pharos.

When the tide-bell rung, the boats were hoisted out, and two active seamen were employed to keep them from receiving damage alongside. The floating-light being very buoyant, was so quick in her motions, that when those who were about to step from her gunwale into a boat, placed themselves upon a cleat or step on the ship’s side, with the man or rail ropes in their hands, they had often to wait for some time, till a favourable opportunity occurred for stepping into the boat. While in this situation, with the vessel rolling from side to side, watching the proper time for letting go the man-ropes, it required the greatest dexterity and presence of mind to leap into the boat. One who was rather awkward, would often wait a considerable period in this position: at one time his side of the ship would be so depressed, that he would touch the boat to which he belonged, while the next sea would elevate him so much, that he would see his comrades in the boat on the opposite side of the ship, his friends in the one boat calling to him to “Jump,” while those in the boat on the other side, as he came again and again into their view, would jocosely say, “Are you there yet? You seem to enjoy a swing.” In this situation it was common to see a person, upon each side of the ship, for a length of time, waiting to quit his hold. A stranger to this sort of motion was both alarmed for the safety, and delighted with the agility of persons leaping into the boat, under those perilous circumstances. No sooner had one quitted his station on the gunwale, than another occupied his place, until the whole were safely shipped.

Difficulty of keeping boats alongside.

It also formed a critical operation with the sailors to keep the boats at a convenient distance from the vessel, to guard against being too far off; as, in that case, the man, in the act of stepping off the ship’s side, might have been in danger of falling into the sea. If, on the other hand, the boat was allowed to come in contact with the vessel, she would have been in danger of being staved or damaged. This state of things was fortunately not what we had to commence with, as the weather happened to be, as before noticed, serene, and the Smeaton’s sides were comparatively low in the water. The excessive rolling of the Pharos did not therefore come upon the artificers all at once, otherwise some unpleasant accidents must have happened, for in these rolling operations, if a stranger had, in a moment of alarm, let go his hold, at an improper time, he must have been pitched with violence into the sea.

The party being seated in their respective boats, they were pulled to the Bell Rock in about twenty minutes, from the moorings of the Pharos, when the water was smooth and the wind moderate. This morning the boats reached the rock at 8 o’clock; the work commenced exactly at a quarter past 8, and at half-past 11, the water again began to overflow the parts on which the artificers were at work. Every tide now gave the writer more pleasant prospects of the progress of the work than another, especially since the erection of the smith’s forge.

Artificers become expert rowers.

On leaving the rock to-day, a trial of seamanship was proposed amongst the rowers, for by this time the artificers had become tolerably expert in this exercise. By inadvertency, some of the oars provided had been made of fir instead of ash, and although a considerable stock had been laid in, the workmen, being at first awkward in the art, were constantly breaking their oars; indeed, it was no uncommon thing to see the broken blades of a pair of oars floating astern, in the course of a passage from the rock to the vessel. The men, upon the whole, had but little work to perform in the course of a day; for though they exerted themselves extremely hard while on the rock, yet, in the early state of the operations, this could not be continued for more than three or four hours at a time,

Rations of artificers.

and as their rations were large, consisting of one pound and a half of beef,—one pound of ship-biscuit,—eight ounces oatmeal,—two ounces barley,—two ounces butter,—three quarts of beer,—with vegetables and salt, they got into excellent spirits, when free of sea-sickness. The rowing of the boats against each other became a favourite amusement; which was rather a fortunate circumstance, as it must have been attended with much inconvenience, had it been found necessary to employ a sufficient number of sailors for this purpose. The writer, therefore, encouraged this spirit of emulation, and the speed of their respective boats became a favourite topic. Premiums for boat races were also instituted, which were contended for with great eagerness, and the respective crews kept their stations in the boats, with as much precision as they kept their beds on board of the ship. With these, and other pastimes, when the weather was favourable, the time passed away, among the inmates of the fore-castle and waist of the ship. The writer looks back with interest upon the hours of solitude which he spent in this lonely ship, with his small library.

“Saturday night at Sea.”

This being the first Saturday that the artificers were afloat, all hands were served with a glass of rum and water at night, to drink the sailors favourite toast of “Wives and Sweethearts.” It was customary, upon these occasions, for the seamen and artificers to collect in the galley, when the musical instruments were put in requisition; for, according to invariable practice, every man must play a tune, sing a song, or tell a story. In this manner Saturday night, in particular, passed away in a very happy manner, when much boisterous mirth and loud peals of laughter occasionally broke forth. It is true, that this could not proceed from a single glass, but every man sat down with a determination to be pleased. They had, besides, a pretty liberal allowance of good small beer, which the rations of the sick increased; and they contrived to make the glass go round, and seemed to feel no want whatever, while the ship kept from her excessive rolling motion.

Sunday, 23d.

The operations at the Bell Rock were still fortunate with regard to the weather. The morning of Sunday set in with light airs from the south-west, which, towards mid-day, came to what sailors term fresh breezes, but towards evening it fell calm, and the weather became foggy.

Reasons for continuing the work on Sunday.

To some, it may require an apology, or, at least, call for an explanation, why the writer took upon himself to step aside from the established rules of society, by carrying on the works of this undertaking during Sundays. Such practices are not uncommon in the dock-yards and arsenals, when it is conceived that the public service requires extraordinary exertions. Surely, if, under any circumstances, it is allowable to go about the ordinary labours of mankind on Sundays, that of the erection of a light-house upon the Bell Rock, seems to be one of the most pressing calls which could in any case occur, and carries along with it the imperious language of necessity. When we take into consideration, that, in its effects, this work was to operate in a direct manner for the safety of many valuable lives and much property, the beautiful and simple parables of the Holy Scriptures, inculcating works of necessity and mercy, must present themselves to every mind unbiassed by the trammels of form or the influence of a distorted imagination. In this perilous work, to give up every seventh day, would just have been to protract the time a seventh part. Now, as it was generally supposed, after taking all advantages into view, that the work would probably require seven years for its execution, such an arrangement must have extended the operation to at least eight years, and have exposed it to additional risk and danger, in all its stages. The writer, therefore, felt little scruple in continuing the Bell Rock works in all favourable states of the weather.

Preparations for reading prayers on deck.

Having, on the previous evening, arranged matters with the landing-master as to the business of the day, the signal was rung for all hands at half past 7 this morning. In the early state of the spring-tides, the artificers went to the rock before breakfast, but as the tides fell later in the day, it became necessary to take this meal before leaving the ship. At 8 o’clock all hands were assembled on the quarter-deck for prayers, a solemnity which was gone through in as orderly a manner as circumstances would admit. Round the quarter-deck, when the weather permitted, the flags of the ship were hung up as an awning or screen, forming the quarter-deck into a distinct compartment with colours; the pendant was also hoisted at the main-mast, and a large ensign flag was displayed over the stern; and, lastly, the ship’s companion, or top of the staircase, was covered with the flag proper of the Light-house Service, on which the Bible was laid. A particular toll of the bell called all hands to the quarter-deck, when the writer read a chapter of the Bible, and, the whole ship’s company being uncovered, he also read the following impressive prayer, composed by the Reverend Dr Brunton, one of the ministers of Edinburgh.

A Prayer for the use of those Employed at the Erection of the Bell Rock Light-House.

“Almighty and ever blessed God! Thou art not confined to temples made with man’s hands: The temple most acceptable to thee is the heart of thy worshipper: Thou hast promised, that wherever thy servants are assembled, thou wilt be with them, to bless them and to do them good. Unto us, O our Father! may the promise be fulfilled. Even here, where no temple invites, and where no ordinances cheer us, be with us, we beseech thee, while we meet in thy presence; and strengthen us to discharge the duties of thy holy day.

“The Sabbath was appointed to celebrate thy creating power: And here, where the magnificence of thy works surrounds us,—where we see thy wonders in the deep,—where we behold every morning thy Sun arise from the world of waters, to spread, as at the first, light and beauty over Nature,—shall not our souls pour forth abundantly the tribute of adoration to thee, whose word alone spake the Universe into being!

“The Sabbath commemorates that Providence which watcheth continually over the works of thy hand: And shall not we, whom dangers so often threaten, and whom difficulties so often alarm; shall not we, conscious of our frailty, and removed far from human aid; shall not we raise the voice of thanksgiving to God, who alone protecteth us, and who, even in the midst of danger, causeth us to dwell in safety!

“The Sabbath was appointed to commemorate the triumphs of redeeming love: And shall not we hail it with delight, whose earliest infancy was hallowed in the name of Jesus; on whose opening minds the doctrines of his faith were poured; who, even in this remote abode, are permitted to call upon thy holy name in prayer,—to read the Oracles of everlasting truth,—to speak one to another of the God who hath loved and blessed us!

“Our souls do magnify the Lord, our spirits rejoice in God our Saviour; for he that is mighty hath done great things for his people, and his mercy is on them that fear him. We bless thee for the doctrines which our Master taught,—for the example which he set before us,—for the atonement by which he relieves us from the load of guilt,—for the hope which he hath restored of grace and glory. We bless thee for the institutions which thou hast appointed for enlightening thy people in religious knowledge, and for training them to lives of usefulness and purity. With shame we remember how often we have abused our Christian privileges,—how often we have neglected the exercises of private devotion,—how often we have failed to study thy holy word,—how often, while yet it was in our power to go up to the house of God, we have forsaken the assembling of ourselves together,—how often we have worshipped thee with our lips, while our hearts were far from thee. Visit us not, O God! in anger, for our transgression; but do thou enable us to lament and forsake it. Let not the circumstances in which we now are placed, be permitted to wean our affections from thy worship. But, while the service of humanity calls us to labour even on this day of rest, save us,—O thou, who wilt have mercy and not sacrifice!—save us from the temptation which might lead us to forget our God, and the duties which we owe to him. Rather, while we are deprived of thine ordinances for a season, do thou give us grace, through prayer and holy meditation, to compensate the loss; that we may, with delight, look forward to the time when the courts of thy sanctuary shall be opened to us again; when we, and those whom we love and value, shall again take sweet counsel together, and walk in company to the house of God. Give to us, even now, O God of our salvation! those pious and holy dispositions which will prepare us for the nobler worship, offered to thee by the Angels of Heaven, and by the Spirits of just men made perfect.

“We pray to our common Father in behalf of all mankind. May the day-spring from on high arise on those who now sit in darkness; and, where the light of the Gospel already shines, may its influences be felt reviving and purifying.

“We pray especially for our native land;—for her peace,—her prosperity,—her liberties,—and her honour. We pray for our king, and for all who are in authority over us. We pray particularly for those by whose command we are engaged in this arduous work. Bless them in their persons, in their families, and in the discharge of their official duty. Prosper, we beseech thee, the work itself in which we are engaged. May it remain long after our eyes have ceased to behold it. Long after our ashes are cold in the dust, may he that was ready to perish have cause to bless the memory of those by whom it was reared.

“We pray for the people of our land. Purify them unto thyself a peculiar people, zealous of good works: Bless them in their commerce, and in their harvests: Bless them in the pursuits of honest industry: Bless them in the relations of domestic life: Bless them, above all, with spiritual blessings in Christ Jesus.

“May the sons and daughters of affliction be enabled to profit by the bitter lesson with which thou hast seen it meet to visit them. Restore the sick to usefulness, or prepare the dying for judgment and eternity. May the living lay it to heart that they must die, and act as it becometh those who know not how soon they shall be called hence.

“Our friends and families, from whom we are separated for a time, we commit to thy protection, O God of love! Unspeakably precious is the thought, that thou carest for them,—that thine eye is upon them continually,—and thine everlasting arms around them. Grant that, in thy good time, we may meet them in peace;—Grant that we may be united hereafter in that land where separation and pain are unknown for ever.

“Our enemies we beseech thee to forgive and bless. Bless us, even us also, O our Father! Give us thy grace in every season of trial;—give us thy protection in every hour of danger. Prepare us for the dispensations of thy Providence;—prepare us for the discharge of duty;—prepare us for the inheritance of the just.

“And may grace, and mercy, and peace, from the Father, the Son, and the Holy Ghost, be with us for ever.”

Some of the artificers decline working on Sunday.

Upon concluding this service, which was attended with becoming reverence and attention, all on board retired to their respective births to breakfast, and, at half-past 9, the bell again rung for the artificers to take their stations in their respective boats. Some demur having been evinced on board, about the propriety of working on Sunday, which had hitherto been touched upon as delicately as possible, all hands being called aft, the writer, from the quarter deck, stated generally the nature of the service, expressing his hopes that every man would feel himself called upon to consider the erection of a light-house on the Bell Rock, in every point of view, as a work of necessity and mercy. He knew that scruples had existed with some, and these had, indeed, been fairly and candidly urged before leaving the shore; but it was expected, that, after having seen the critical nature of the rock, and the necessity of the measure, every man would now be satisfied of the propriety of embracing all opportunities of landing on the rock, when the state of the weather would permit; and, in short, of exerting every effort in this as a common cause, at least until the Beacon should be erected, being an undertaking, on which the lives and safety of all connected with these works had a constant dependence. The writer, farther, took them to witness, that it did not proceed from want of respect for the appointments and established forms of religion that he had himself adopted the resolution of attending the Bell Rock works on the Sunday; but, as he hoped, from a conviction that it was his bounden duty, on the strictest principles of morality. At the same time it was intimated, that if any were of a different opinion, they should be perfectly at liberty to hold their sentiments, without the imputation of contumacy or disobedience; the only difference would be in regard to the pay.

Upon stating this much, he stepped into his boat, requesting all who were so disposed to follow him. The sailors, from their habits, found no scruple on this subject, and all of the artificers, though a little tardy, also embarked, excepting four of the masons, who, from the beginning, mentioned that they would decline working on Sundays. The boats reached the rock at a quarter past 10 o’clock A. M., and after a very active tide’s work of two hours and a half, the water again overflowed the rock. It may here be noticed, that throughout the whole of the operations, it was observable that the men wrought, if possible, with more keenness upon the Sundays than at other times, from an impression that they were engaged in a work of imperious necessity, which required every possible exertion. On returning to the floating-light, after finishing the tide’s work, the boats were received by the part of the ship’s crew left on board, with the usual attention of handing ropes to the boats, and helping the artificers on board; but the four masons who had absented themselves from the work did not appear upon deck.

Additional pay on Sunday.

As the season advanced, the period of low water occurred later, and the writer did not consider it advisable, in the present state of the works, to land on the rock under night, there being nothing to mark its place prior to the erection of the Beacon. Under more favourable circumstances, he would willingly have landed this evening, to entitle the artificers who accompanied him in the morning, to additional wages, as every tide’s work on Sunday counted a day, according to the rate of pay and premiums which he had laid down.

Monday, 24th.

Neap-tides. Artificers working knee-deep in water.

The weather, upon the whole, was very fine to-day, and the winds, though variable, were gentle; but from the mildness of the season, it got rather foggy towards the evening. The boats left the floating-light at a quarter past 9 o’clock this morning, and the work began at three-quarters past 9; but as the neap tides were approaching, the working-time at the rock became gradually shorter, and it was now with difficulty that two and a half hours work could be got. But, so keenly had the workmen entered into the spirit of the Beacon-house operations, that they continued to bore the holes in the rock till some of them were knee deep in water. In this work the sailors were also engaged, taking their turns at the boring and other works.

Operations entirely confined to the Beacon.

The operations at this time, were entirely directed to the erection of the beacon, in which every man felt an equal interest, as at this critical period the slightest casualty to any of the boats at the rock might have been fatal to himself individually, while it was perhaps peculiar to the writer more immediately to feel for the safety of the whole. Each log or upright beam of the beacon, was to be fixed to the rock by two strong and massive bats or stanchions of iron, of a construction which will be better understood by inspecting the diagrams on

Plate VIII.

, and the accompanying description. These bats, for the fixture of the principal and diagonal beams and bracing-chains, required fifty-four holes, each measuring two inches in diameter, and eighteen inches in depth.

Description of the operation of boring the rock.

The operation of boring or drilling these deep holes in the rock, was conducted with great dexterity in the following manner: Three men were attached to each jumper or chisel; one placed himself in a sitting posture, to guide the instrument and give it a turn at each blow of the hammer; he also sponged or cleaned out the hole, and supplied it occasionally with a little water; while the other two, with hammers of sixteen pounds weight, struck the jumper alternately, generally bringing the hammer with a swing round the shoulder, after the manner of blacksmiths’ work. The three men relieved each other in the operation of guiding the jumper and striking with the hammers. The forms of the jumper, hammer, and sponging-rod, are represented in

Plate X.

, Figs. 7, 8, and 9. After many observations, as to the time occupied in boring these holes, the writer found that, when the tools were of a very good temper, they could be sunk at the rate of one inch per minute, including stoppages. The holes for the stanchions, when completed, measured seven inches in length, two inches in breadth, and eighteen inches in depth. After a jumper had been sunk to the necessary depth at each end of these holes, the most tedious part of the operation was to cut out the piece of rock which remained between the two jumper-holes, so as to clear it fully for the reception of the great iron stanchions, which were of a dove-tail form.

Progress of the work.

There had already been so considerable a progress made in boring and excavating these holes, that the writer’s hopes of getting the beacon erected this year, began to be more and more confirmed, although it was now advancing towards what was considered the latter end of the proper working season at the Bell Rock. The foreman joiner, Mr Francis Watt, was accordingly appointed to attend at the rock to-day, when the necessary levels were taken for the step or seat of each particular beam of the beacon, that they might be cut to their respective lengths, to suit the inequalities of the rock; several of the stanchions were also tried into their places, and other necessary observations made, to prevent mistakes on the application of the apparatus, and to facilitate the operations, when the beams came to be set up, which would require to be done in the course of a single tide.

Tuesday 25th.

We had now experienced an almost unvaried tract of light airs of easterly wind, with clear weather in the fore-part of the day, and fog in the evenings. To-day, however, it sensibly changed; when the wind came to the south-west, and blew a fresh breeze. At 9 A. M. the bell rung, and the boats were hoisted out, and though the artificers were now pretty well accustomed to tripping up and down the sides of the floating-light, yet it required more seamanship this morning than usual. It therefore afforded some merriment to those who had got fairly seated in their respective boats, to see the difficulties which attended their companions, from the hesitating manner in which they quitted hold of the man-ropes in leaving the ship. As it blew pretty fresh, the passage to the rock was tedious, and the boats did not reach it till half-past 10. By working upon the higher parts of the site of the beacon 1¼ hours work was got, though not without difficulty, and the men left off at a quarter past 12 noon, completely drenched in water.

Difficult situation of the Smith.

The masons and pickmen were employed in boring the bat-holes, and in dressing and preparing the rock between the holes, at the places on which the beams of the beacon-house were to rest. It being now the period of neap-tides, the water only partially left the rock, and some of the men, who were boring on the lower ledges of the site of the beacon, stood knee-deep in water. The situation of the smith to-day was particularly disagreeable, but his services were at all times indispensable. As the tide did not leave the site of the forge, he stood in the water, and as there was some roughness on the surface, it was with considerable difficulty that, with the assistance of the sailors, he was enabled to preserve alive his fire; and, while his feet were immersed in water, his face was not only scorched, but continually exposed to volumes of smoke, accompanied with sparks from the fire, which were occasionally set up, owing to the strength and direction of the wind.

Wednesday, 26th.

Wind-gauge, and nomenclature for the winds much wanted.

The wind had shifted this morning to N. NW. with rain, and was blowing what sailors call a fresh breeze,—for as yet a correct and efficient wind-gauge remains a desideratum with the mechanical philosopher; and we have unfortunately no proper or satisfactory nomenclature for expressing the force of the wind. To speak, perhaps, somewhat intelligibly to the general reader, the wind was such, that a fishing-boat could just carry full sail. The weather did not look very favourable in the morning; but as it was of importance, especially in the outset of the business, to keep up the spirit of enterprise for landing on all practicable occasions, the writer, after consulting with the landing-master, ordered the bell to be rung for embarking, and at half-past 11 the boats reached the rock, and left it again at a quarter past 12, without, however, being able to do much work, as the smith could not be set to work from the smallness of the ebb and the strong breach of sea, which lashed with great force among the bars of the forge.

Difficult passage from the Rock to the Floating-Light.

Just as we were about to leave the rock, the wind shifted to the SW., and, from a fresh gale, it became what seamen term a hard gale, or such as would have required the fisherman to take in two or three reefs in his sail. The boats being rather in a crowded state for this sort of weather, they were pulled with great difficulty towards the floating-light. Though the boats were handsomely built, and presented little obstruction to the wind, as those who were not pulling sat low, yet having the ebb-tide to contend with, the passage was so very tedious, that it required two hours of hard work before we reached the vessel.

It is a curious fact, before noticed, that the respective tides of ebb and flood are apparent upon the shore about an hour and a half sooner than at the distance of three or four miles in the offing. But what seems chiefly interesting here is, that the tides around this small sunken rock should follow exactly the same laws as on the extensive shores of the mainland. When the boats left the Bell Rock to-day, it was overflowed by the flood-tide, but the floating-light did not swing round to the flood-tide for more than an hour afterwards. Under this disadvantage the boats had to struggle with the ebb-tide and a hard gale of wind, so that it was with the greatest difficulty they reached the floating-light. Had this gale happened in spring-tides when the current was strong, we must have been driven to sea in a very helpless condition.

Life-buoy streamed.

The boat which the writer steered, was considerably behind the other, one of the masons having unluckily broken his oar. Our prospect of getting on board, of course, became doubtful, and our situation was rather perilous, as the boat shipped so much sea that it occupied two of the artificers to bale and clear her of water. When the oar gave way, we were about half a mile from the ship, but being fortunately to windward, we got into the wake of the floating-light, at about 250 fathoms astern, just as the Landing-master’s boat reached the vessel. He immediately streamed or floated a life-buoy astern, with a line which was always in readiness, and by means of this useful implement, the boat was towed alongside of the floating-light, where, from her rolling motion, it required no small management to get safely on board, as the men were much worn out with their exertions in pulling from the rock. On the present occasion, the crews of both boats were completely drenched with spray, and those who sat upon the bottom of the boats to bale them, were sometimes pretty deep in the water, before it could be cleared out. After getting on board, all hands were allowed an extra dram, and having shifted, and got a warm and comfortable dinner, the affair, it is believed, was little more thought of.

Tender ordered exclusively for the service of the Rock.

This was the first difficult or tedious passage which had been experienced in landing at the Bell Rock; it was also the first time that the writer had really felt the inconveniency of not having a vessel entirely set apart for the purposes of a tender. The floating-light, from the construction of her moorings, and the service for which she was specially employed, could not be cast loose or brought to the lea side of the rock in any case of emergency. Neither could she be risked to ride at moorings near enough to the rock, to place her in a more eligible situation for the purposes of the work. When these circumstances were brought under the notice of the Commissioners, it was ordered that a vessel should be provided, exclusively as a tender for the operations of the rock; and this was accordingly done before the commencement of the works of another season.

Thursday, 27th.

Depth of water in the site of the building in Neap-tides.

The tides were now in that state which sailors term the dead of the neap, and it was not expected that any part of the rock would be seen above water to-day; at any rate, it was obvious, from the experience of yesterday, that no work could be done upon it, and therefore the artificers were not required to land. The wind was at west, with light breezes, and fine clear weather; and as it was an object with the writer to know the actual state of the Bell Rock at neap-tides, he got one of the boats manned, and, being accompanied by the landing-master, went to it at a quarter past 12. The parts of the rock that appeared above water being very trifling, were covered by every wave, so that no landing was made. Upon trying the depth of water with a boat-hook, particularly on the sites of the Light-house and Beacon, on the former, at low water, the depth was found to be three feet, and on the central parts of the latter it was ascertained to be two feet eight inches. Having made these remarks, the boat returned to the ship at 2 P. M., and the weather being good, the artificers were found amusing themselves with fishing. The Smeaton came from Arbroath this afternoon, and made fast to her moorings, having brought letters and newspapers, with parcels of clean linen, &c. for the workmen; who were also made happy by the arrival of three of their comrades from the work-yard, ashore. From these men they not only received all the news of the work-yard, but seemed themselves to enjoy great pleasure in communicating whatever they considered to be interesting with regard to the rock. Some also got letters from their friends at a distance, the postage of which, for the men afloat, was always free, so that they corresponded the more readily.

Friday, 28th.

To-day the weather was not quite so agreeable as it had been yesterday, the wind being south-east, and blowing what sailors term a fresh breeze, by which we understand a force of wind that would be sufficient to cause the sails of a fishing-boat to be reefed. At ½ past 1 P. M., the writer again went to the rock, accompanied by the landing-master, when a depth of about four feet of water was found upon the site of the Light-house, which may be considered a medium depth, as nearly as this could be ascertained in its present unworked state, but there was some surf upon the rock.

Saturday, 29th.

Some of the Artificers wish to go ashore.

In the course of the night, the wind had shifted from SE. to SW., and it blew very hard, being technically termed a stiff gale, or rather too much wind for a fishing-boat. It was therefore considered unsafe for the Smeaton to continue at her moorings, and the signal was made for her to sail for Arbroath; she therefore got under way, but although there was a packet of letters for the shore, and the artificers had their memorandums in readiness, yet the floating-light rolled so unmercifully, that it would have been at the imminent hazard of staving or dashing a boat to pieces, had it been attempted to put one out. This was a disappointment in one way, though it answered a good purpose in another, as two of the three men, who had come last from the work-yard, earnestly entreated that they might be allowed to return, as they could no longer endure the rolling of the floating-light, a request in which they were anxiously accompanied by one of the masons, who had all along been much afflicted with sea-sickness. These applications were necessarily refused; they then applied to have an interview with the writer, when they urged the misery they were likely to suffer on board, without their being able to do any work at the rock. To the two strangers the difficulty and danger of putting out a boat was stated, as rendering it impossible for them to leave the ship; while the third person was reminded of his engagement to remain afloat for one month. In this manner these two men were put off, with the prospect of better weather in the course of a day or two. With regard to the other, he had suffered so severely, that the writer would have been happy to have had him ashore, and he was informed that if his comrades would ask leave for him, it would be granted. This being readily complied with, he was left at full liberty to return to the work-yard. But, for the present, the Smeaton was obliged to pass at a considerable distance, without being able to communicate with the floating-light.

Sunday, 30th.

Land upon the Rock after five days absence.

The wind was N.NE. this morning, in light airs, and the weather was clear. This being Sunday, the usual ceremony was observed at 12 noon, when the writer read prayers on the quarter-deck. The ensuing set of spring-tides were now coming to hand, and, at 3 P. M., all the artificers embarked for the rock, excepting the four men who had declined it last Sunday. Their places, however, were willingly taken by the three men who came last from the shore, who were happy to get relief from the disagreeable motion of the floating-light upon any terms. The boats reached the rock at half-past 3; but being rather early in the tide, the men rested on their oars till 4 o’clock, and then landed on the different spots as they dried, where they remained till the tide ebbed sufficiently to allow them to commence work. This was the first time the artificers had landed on the rock for five days, owing to the state of the weather and tides, and it was not a little flattering, on this occasion, to see with what eagerness the workmen leaped upon it. Those who were not troubled with sea-sickness, felt a degree of languor on board from which their working hours formed rather a relaxation, while the sickly (by far the greater number) felt immediate relief upon setting their foot upon terra firma, even in its most circumscribed boundary. While the water was going off the rock, the workmen were all busily employed in picking dulse, the Fucus palmatus of botanists, and indeed any other of the marine plants which happened to lie within their reach. Those who were the greatest sufferers from sea-sickness always ate the most greedily upon these occasions. Such incidental circumstances tended greatly to keep up the desire for landing at the rock, and seemed, in some measure, to compensate for the labour of rowing to and from it.