Volume 9 / Part 2 / Book 3 — CHAPTER XI. (continued 9)
Reading edition
The 25th, we got into the road of Becee, and anchored in fifteen fathoms, about two miles from the shore; the S. point of Becee bearing S.W. 1/4 W. and the N. point Sabaicas, which shut in the western isle of Pirio Tigs, bearing N. by W. three leagues off. We watered our ships on the 27th and 28th, and cut wood. I and Mr Coytmore, with several other masters, went twice ashore to view the harbour, which we found to be an excellent place of refuge for a small fleet against a superior enemy. The 31st, by order of the president, we repaired with our fleet into Bantam roads.
The 1st February, Captain John Jourdan the president came on board, who acquainted me with all that had taken place between them and the Dutch, in regard to the castle of Jacatra, during my absence, the Dutch having agreed to deliver up that fort to the English, on condition of being allowed to depart with bag and baggage, and a ship, for two thousand rials of eight, to carry them to the coast of Coromandel.[265] Sir Thomas Dale arrived in Bantam roads on the 4th, with the Moon, Clove, James, Pepper-corn, Hound, and Advice. As the pangran of Bantam had practised underhandedly with the Dutch to have the castle of Jacatra delivered into his hands, by which we had been unjustly deprived of that acquisition, we agreed, in a general consultation, that the president, and all the rest of the principal persons of our factory at Bantam, should repair on board, and get all our goods and provisions put aboard the ships. Accordingly, we were occupied from the 10th to 16th, both inclusive, in getting all the money and goods belonging to the honourable Company on board. During this time, the pangran sent several obscure persons to the president, as of their own accord, to enquire the reason of his departure, pretending that the pangran had given no just cause for leaving the country. Upon this the president drew up a memorial, enumerating the several grievances and wrongs which the English had suffered from him, meaning to have it translated into the Javan language, and then to be transmitted to the pangran.
[Footnote 265: This agreement was crossed by the Pangran of Bantam, who gave us leave to beat the bush, and thought to have caught the birds himself, but was deceived in the end.--Purch.]
The 17th, advice was received from Mr Ufflet, at Jacatra, that the Dutch were daily occupied in repairing and strengthening their fortifications; and that, when the messengers of the pangran demanded the surrender of their fort, with part of their money, goods, and ordnance, they gave for answer, That all these things were the property of their masters, which therefore they could not give away. We this day received news of two Dutch ships in the road of Jacatra, and that same night Sir Thomas Dale set sail with eight ships in quest of them, while I remained with four to attend upon the president. The 26th, having certain intelligence that four Holland ships were at anchor in the mouth of the Straits of Sunda, I went out that same evening to look for them, with the James, Gift, Unicorn, and the Little James. Next morning we anchored near Pulo Paniang, to take in water, and to put our ships into order, by taking aboard some planks that were alongside.
We weighed again in the morning of the 1st March, making sail towards the mouth of the Straits, where we observed the two Dutch ships at anchor near the island of Tamporan, about three leagues to the westwards of Viun, or Palambangan point. We immediately made all sail towards them, while they, as in a careless manner, plied to and fro, having their topsails half mast down. At length, as we drew nigh, the Dutch admiral and all the rest of his ships bore up with my ship, which was most to windward, and gave us two shots, one of which went through the ship's side under the half-deck, and the other through the steerage. They had no sooner begun than they were as quickly answered from my ship, and in such measure, that, in the space of two hours, they became as quiet as lambs; their admiral, who gave the onset with so much arrogance, being the first to run away, followed by all the rest. We chased them till night, and then finding them too swift of foot, we gave over the chase, standing over towards Pulo Tunda. We came to anchor again on the 2d of March in the road of Bantam, on which day we had intelligence that one of the two ships lately come to Jacatra had got aground near the castle, and had been set on fire by themselves on seeing Sir Thomas Dale. The other ship, which had taken in a valuable loading from the castle, was also cast away on some rocks, ten leagues east of Jacatra.
On the 4th, we had a letter from John Powell, residing at Jacatra, stating that Sir Thomas Dale had sailed on the 1st, with the Moon, Hound, Rose, and Bee, in search of the stranded Dutch ship. The 14th we heard from Sir Thomas that he had got almost within shot of the four Dutch ships we met with, but had been taken by a dead calm for twelve hours, succeeded in the night by a tempest, which scattered them so far asunder by next morning, that they lost all hopes of the chase, and had therefore returned to Point Ayre, whence he proposed bringing the Moon immediately to Bantam, leaving the rest of his ships to take in provisions at Jacatra. In a consultation as to the best course to be taken with the fleet, it was resolved to go to the coast of Coromandel, which we were informed was a good country for recovering the health of our men, and abounding in rice, wheat, butter, and other, provisions, which could not be procured here for any money.
S.3. Departure for Coromandel, with Occurrences there, and the Death of Sir Thomas Dale,--Capture of English Ships by the Dutch; and Occurrences at Tecoo.
On Monday the 19th of April, 1619, all our ships being together in Bantam roads, with three Chinese junks riding among us, it was resolved in council to execute the commission given us by the Honourable Company, by appropriating to them the goods in these junks, in payment of former debts due by the Chinese. Next day Kewee came aboard to the president, accompanied by the three nockhadas, or captains of the junks, to know his intentions. He gave him the following answer:--If the young king of Bantam would displace the pangran, who had treated us with so much injustice, he would then return on shore and bichar[266] with him, and restore the junks. The 28th, being ready to sail, intending to go for Morrogh to take in water and unload the junks, we descried a sail coming from the westwards round Palinbangan point, which turned out to be a Portuguese frigate, captured at Jasques, manned by twenty Englishmen, and sent by Captain Bonnar with advice to the president at Bantam. We learnt from these men that Sir Thomas Roe, the lord ambassador to the Mogul, was gone for England in the Ann Royal, having left the country with great honour and reputation to himself, and much advantage of the Honourable Company. Bodman, who was the cause of setting the Black Lion on fire, was hanged on the 22d of May, and that same night we set sail.
[Footnote 266: This unexplained term probably means to make peace.--E.]
The 30th May, Sir Thomas Roe stood in with his fleet under the island, while we held on our course for Masulipatam, having the Unicorn, Gift, and Bee in our company. The 30th June we anchored in nine fathoms, about two leagues from the coast of Coromandel, where we rode four days, being hardly able to visit each other in all that time, owing to W.S.W. winds, and a continual current setting to E.N.E. The surf also broke so lofty on the beach, that we durst not attempt landing with any of our boats. We were at length able to communicate together, when Mr Roberts, the master of the Unicorn, gave us notice of a bay on this coast in the latitude of 17° N. about five leagues to the eastwards of Nassapore, [Narsipore] where there was good riding during the westerly monsoon. This was exactly what I wanted, having no hope to recover Masulipatam against wind and current. We accordingly set sail on the 4th, in the morning, and stood to the eastwards, the coast trending W.S.W. and E.N.E. And having run about nine leagues by estimation, with the wind and current, we found the land to turn away N. and N. by W.[267] giving me hopes of a good road. At this point of land there cometh put a great river,[268] by the stream of which there has been raised a reef or shoal, extending half a mile into the sea from the point, and occasioning a smoother road. Bringing that sand to bear S.S.W. there is good and safe anchorage in six and a half fathoms, two miles from the land. Two leagues north from this point, which, for distinction, I name Cape Comfort, there issues forth another branch of the same river, by which the headland is made an island, and off the mouth of this river there is likewise a long spit of sand, which is dry at low water.
[Footnote 267: Obviously rounding Cape Godawery, in lat. 16° 83' N.]
[Footnote 268: One of the two main branches forming the Delta of the Godawery.--E.]
The 4th of July I sent the boat belonging to the Unicorn into the second branch of the river, which we called Mullet Sound, to see if they could discover any town where a guide might be procured, to conduct Robert Pickering and William Clarke to Masulipatam, by whom we proposed sending a letter to Mr Methwould. Our boat returned on the morning of the 6th, reporting that a guide had been procured at a little village three leagues up the river. They likewise brought aboard twenty hens, which they had bought for two shillings. The 8th, the barge returned from Captain Ball with seventy-one sheep and goats, and thirty-nine hens, having left Captain Ball and others at a town called Narsapela, six leagues up in the country. The 12th, Mr Methwould came from Masulipatam in one of the country boats, and brought with him twenty hogs, two large jars of arrack, six goats, and two baskets of bread. He also brought us news of a Dutch ship richly laden, then in the port of Masulipatam, and ready to depart for Holland.
In the evening of the 26th, I went in the barge to seek out some bar or creek by which we might reach Coringa, the principal town in these parts near the sea side. That same night, I got over the bar of Coringa, which place I came to about two miles up the river, and was well received by the principal persons of the place, who were very ready to trade with us, and sent notice that same night of my arrival to the governor of Vingeron. Next morning, having rowed about three miles up the main river, and two miles up a little creek, we had sight of Vingeron, about twelve miles off.[269] I now landed, and walked towards Vingeron; but, before I reached it, the governor sent his horse for me, with all the music the place afforded; and among these instruments there were two great brass horns instead of trumpets. The governor received me very kindly, but more kindly my present, which consisted of two pieces of China velvet, and six pieces of China taffeta. Our compliments ended. I took leave of him, when he caused me to be conveyed in his own palanquin to a house near at hand, which he had appointed for my lodging.
[Footnote 269: The town of Rajahmundry exactly answers to these circumstances, in reference to Coringa, and is in fact the head town of the province in which Coringa is situated.--E.]
I returned on board the James on the 1st of August, when I learnt, to my sorrow, that the shallop belonging to the Unicorn had been cast away three days before, near Ponara, on which occasion Mr Harris was drowned, together with two of the coxwain's crew, and a black; Captain Spaulding, Mr Yard, and others, escaping with much difficulty. In the morning of the 2d, the governor of Vingeron came aboard to see our ship, expecting some great present; on which occasion I gave him a piece of China damask, and four pieces of taffeta, which gave him more delight than the sight of a thousand ships, and he departed when he found he got nothing more by begging. The 23d I caused all the men to come on board, intending to proceed for Masulipatam, and this evening we got on board 150 goats, to serve us for fresh provisions at sea. The 24th there arrived a ballegat from Narsepore, bringing twenty-six candees of garavances, a candee of butter, and an hundred gallons of arrack.[270] I also, had letters from Masulipatam, announcing the melancholy news that Sir Thomas Dale had died at that place on the 9th of August.
[Footnote 270: Though not so expressed, these seem to have been intended for the use of the English ships.--E.]
In the morning of the 6th September, having rode most part of the preceding night in nineteen fathoms, about three leagues S.S.E. from the bar of Narispore, and having the wind at N.W. we again set sail toward Masulipatam,[271] and anchored at night four leagues to the eastward of that place. Off the river of Narsipore we found the current to set by day to the S.S.E. and N.N.E. in the night, at the rate of half a league an hour. In the morning of the 7th we could see the English ships in the road of Masulipatam, in which road we came to anchor in the evening, finding here the Moon, Clove, Globe, and Advice, which last being found unserviceable, was here cast off, and her stores and provisions put on board the Moon and Clove. Next day, Mr Spaulding, Mr Ball, and Mr Methwould came aboard the James, giving me a report of all matters that had passed in my absence, as also a state of the Company's business. I accompanied them ashore in the afternoon, that we might the better consult together how to proceed in the important concerns committed to our charge. The first thing proposed was the union of both fleets, which was thought adviseable, and I was made choice of as admiral and chief commander of the whole ships and men thus united, according to the direction of the Honourable Company.
[Footnote 271: The true name of this place is Mutchelipatnam; in Purchas it is called Messulapitan and Masulpatam.--E.]
The 18th of October, a ship belonging to Masulipatam arrived from Mokha, by which we had news of the Lion being at Mokha, having a small frigate or bark in her company. The same day the Bee arrived from Narsipore-pete, with provisions for the fleet. The 19th, the Dragon's Claw came from Narsipore-pete[272] almost laden with rice and paddy.[273] On Thursday the 9th December, Mr Ball, Mr Methwould, and the other merchants who were to remain in the country, went ashore in the afternoon. In the morning of Friday the 10th, we left the road of Masulipatam, and anchored in the afternoon off the headland, to wait for the Pepper-corn, which came to us in the evening. By my estimation, the difference of longitude between the island of Engano and Masulipatam is 19° 30' of a great circle; and, although this does not give the true longitude in these parts near the equator, as custom has so called it, I do, that I may not savour of innovation.
[Footnote 272: This may designate the road of Narsipore; but petah usually signifies in India the suburb or town connected with a fortress.--E.]
[Footnote 273: Paddy is rice in its natural state as it comes from the plant on which it grows; rice is paddy deprived by art of its coarse husk.--E.]
Next morning, very early, we descried the land of Sumatra, the hill of Passaman bearing E.N.E 1/2 N. twelve leagues distant,[274] and the high land of Priaman E. 1/2 S. fourteen leagues off. We here met with two shoals, within a mile of each other, E. and W. The Gift came over the eastermost, and had not less than four and a half fathoms. I sent the Claw over the other, on which were four fathoms where she first crossed, but only two fathoms in returning, a little more to the northward. About nine this morning the wind came to the S.E. and so continued till three in the afternoon, by which time we had got to the southward of all the shoals; and so, with little wind, we spent the night between these shoals and the island of Battoo, [Batoa.] In this situation, a sagging current bore us to the northwards near the shoals, which, if it had set S.E. as formerly experienced, it ought to have carried us near to Tecoo.
[Footnote 274: Purchas must here have omitted a part of the text, particularly the series of dates between Masulipatam and Passaman in Sumatra. As the text now stands, it would seem as if they had gone from Masulipatam to the coast of Sumatra, a run of about 1600 miles, in one night, an utter impossibility. But from the context, instead of the 11th December, 1619, the day after leaving Masulipatam, it would appear they reached the coast of Sumatra on the 23d January, 1620, giving forty-four days for the run across the bay of Bengal.--E.]
The 24th, in the evening, we had sight of the isles of Tecoo, and came to anchor about eight o'clock, in forty-four fathoms, these isles bearing E. by N. seven leagues off. The 25th, with the first of the tide, we again weighed and steered for Tecoo; and, as we drew near, we espied three sail standing to the northwards, which came to anchor near the coast that night, while we anchored with our whole fleet about a league without them. Next morning they weighed anchor and joined us, when we found them to be the Palsgrave, Elizabeth, and Hope. From them we had the doleful news of the Dragon, Bear, Expedition, and Rose, having been taken by six Dutch ships, while at anchor, within the isles of Tecoo; as also that the Star had been taken by the Dutch in the straits of Sunda. They also said that the Hollanders had sent four great ships, doubly manned, in quest of the Samson and Hound, and that they were exceedingly doubtful as to the safety of these ships. Thus the English ships now taken by the Hollanders were almost equal in number to our three fleets now joined in one under my command.
On Monday the 31st January, 1620, we held a consultation aboard the James Royal as to our future proceedings, when it was unanimously agreed to go to Acheen, in hopes to meet our ships from Surat, that we might keep our force together, according to the instructions of the Honourable Company. Our chief reasons for this proceeding were the want of rice and other provisions, which could not at this time be had at Bantam; secondly, the strong naval force of the Hollanders, as we did not think it prudent to risk the entire property now belonging to the Company in India upon such desperate terms, as the Dutch had four ships for every one of ours; and, lastly, which was an imperious necessity, that we might careen three of our ships, the James, the Gift, and the Unicorn, which could not be much longer deferred without imminent hazard. For all these reasons, we resolved to proceed for Japan, where, as we were given to understand, all things necessary for careening our ships, and abundance of provisions for our relief, were to be had.
The 11th, Mr Mills arrived in the Bee from Priaman, with 300 sacks of very good rice, and eleven hogsheads of oil, giving us great encouragement to send there again. The 12th, the Claw was sent off for Pedang and Cuttatinga, to procure rice and other provisions; and, on the 15th, the Bee was sent back to Priaman for more rice and oil. The 19th the Claw returned with thirty-four bags of rice, 16,000 cocoa-nuts, and ten goats; and the same night the Bee came back with 980 sacks of rice, procured with much difficulty by Mr Mills, merchant of the Elizabeth.
The 3d March we departed from the road of Tecoo, intending first to touch at Mintaon, on purpose to dispatch the Bee for England, and thence to go for Acheen, in hopes of meeting the Charles and the Ruby from Surat. The 30th March we all anchored in the bay of Samanca, about a mile from shore, where we took in wood, water, and other necessaries. Next day we sent to recall the Bee from Balembeen. The 1st April we sent the shallop belonging to the Unicorn for Anniar, to enquire concerning the Dutch force, and how the pangran stood affected towards us.[275] At eleven this night, twenty-two of our men ran away with our barge. Next morning the shallop returned from Anniar, and brought news that there were fifteen sail of Dutch ships at Bantam and Jacatra, upon which we resolved to proceed to Bantam, to treat with the pangram, hoping that the Dutch might not venture to attack us. The Bee arrived in the afternoon from Ballambeen, [Palimbangan.] The 6th we set sail for Bantam, and on the 7th, between Crackastaw and Becee, we met a proa with some of our people coming from Anniar.
[Footnote 275: The intended voyage to Acheen seems to hate been laid aside; perhaps the monsoon had become adverse, and forced them to the S.E. towards Bantam.--E.]
S.4. News of Peace between the English and Dutch.
At four in the morning of Saturday the 8th April, 1620, we met the Bull, newly come from England, bringing the joyful news of peace having been concluded between us and the Dutch. She was accompanied by a small ship, called the Flying Hart, with letters of advice for us, or any other of the English ships, giving notice of the agreement and union that had taken place between the two Honourable East India Companies of England and Holland. We came to anchor with all our fleet in the afternoon, near the point of Palimbangan. In the morning of the 11th, we descried the Dutch fleet coming from Jacatra to meet us, and to congratulate with us on the joyful intelligence of peace. General Coen was there in person, and as soon as he came to anchor, the Holland fleet and ours began to salute each other with peals of ordnance, to communicate the intelligence to the natives, and to express our own joy of the happy news of peace.
The 12th, we came altogether into Bantam roads, the Dutch fleet consisting of fifteen sail, besides two others of their nation which we found already in the roads, and ours of twelve sail. This day, Mr Janson, commander of the Dutch fleet, accompanied by their fiscal, and divers others, came to visit me, and invited Mr Brockendon, Mr Spalding, and myself on board the Dutch admiral's ship, where we conferred with General Coen concerning our future conjunct arrangements. After we had compared the articles and letters, the Dutch general agreed that we should jointly proceed in conformity with the instructions we had received from our Honourable Company; but he declined publishing the articles till the arrival of some ship from Holland, with the articles and instructions from their Company. On the 14th, in the morning, by mutual concert between us and the Hollanders, we sent Mr Beaumont and Philip Baduge on, shore, with one Dutch merchant, to communicate the news of our peace and agreement to the pangran, and to inform him, as we were now united, we only desired to have a reasonable composition with him, through which we might remain quietly in his country, enjoying a free trade on just and equitable conditions, as in other parts of India. But the pangran was so much dissatisfied with the news, that he would give no answer to their message, often times asking them why we had become friends with the Hollanders, so that they had to return without any answer. We sent the same message to him next day, but our messengers were not allowed to land.
"The differences and maritime warfare which took place between the Dutch and English East India Companies, of which some notice has been taken; and the peace and union which are announced, as having been communicated to their respective commanders at this time, would lead to historical discussions and deductions, which do not properly belong to the object of a Collection of Voyages and Travels; but which, if altogether passed over, would leave much of the foregoing circumstances, and some that have to be noticed in the sequel, abrupt, isolated, and almost unintelligible. It has therefore been deemed proper to give a brief account of these differences, and of the singular so called union, which took place in consequence, extracted from the Annals of the East India Company, vol. I. p. 201, et seq.[276]
[Footnote 276: This addition to S.4. of the present voyage, is made by the Editor; but almost entirely derived from the historiographer of the East India Company.--E.]
"When the differences and aggressions which had occurred in the spice islands were reported in Europe, the English and Dutch Companies presented memorials and remonstrances to their respective governments, each complaining against the servants of the other, as guilty of unwarrantable aggressions. In Holland, calculating on the pacific character of King James, it was expected that the opposition to the projects of the English for participating in the trade of the spice islands, although of at least a tendency towards warlike aggression, would not lead to national hostilities, but might be discussed by means of remonstrances and negociation.
"After long conferences between English and Dutch commissioners, for settling the disputes between the two Companies, a treaty was concluded at London on the 17th July, 1619; by which, after specifying an amnesty for all past excesses, and a mutual restitution of ships and property, the trade of the two nations in the East was declared to be free;--That the pepper trade at Java should be equally divided;--That the English should have a free trade at Pullicat, on paying half the expences of the garrison;--That the English were to enjoy one third of the export and import trade, at the Molucca and Banda islands, commonly called the spice islands; commissioners to be appointed for regulating the trade, and the charges of the garrisons, under their inspection, to be defrayed in that proportion by the two Companies;--That each Company should furnish ten ships of war for the common defence; which ships were not to be employed to bring cargoes to Europe, but only in the carrying trade, between one port and another in the East Indies.--The whole proceedings arising out of this treaty, were to be under the regulation of a Council of Defence, composed of four members appointed by each Company, who were to reside in India; and this treaty was to subsist in force for twenty years.
"It would lead far beyond any due bounds that could be afforded in this work, to follow out this compact, singularly weak on the part of King James, and assuredly either contrived by his boasted king craft, or devised by some wily Dutch politician, who was acquainted with his majesty's wonderful sagacity. This union and the council of defence, turned out a most fruitful source of advantage to the Dutch, who had completely duped the king and government of England, and totally expelled the English Company from any share whatever in the trade of the spice islands; after contriving to make them pay more than two thirds of the expence of fortifications and garrisons, instead of one third, all of which were effectually converted to their injury and exclusion. In the sequel of these voyages, several instances will be found, completely illustrative of these positions; and from the year 1625, or thereabout, the Dutch enjoyed the entire profits of the spice trade, including the whole island of Java, till within these very few years; when, as subjects of Buonaparte, they have been driven from every foreign possession, and entirely excluded from all participation in the trade of the East."--E.
S.5. Voyage of Captain Pring from Bantam, to Patania and Japan, and return to Jacatra.[277]
The 26th of April, 1620, we sailed from Bantam roads, with the James Royal and Unicorn in company, intending, by the grace of God, to go for Japan, there to careen and trim our ships. Mr Brockendon departed at the same time for Jacatra with six ships; proposing, about a month after our departure, to send five good English ships after us to Japan, that we might have the fittest season of the year to go from thence to the Manillas. The 27th, we took leave of this fleet, and steered towards the north, borrowing within half a league of the eastern point of Pulo-Tunda; and came to anchor in the evening about a league off the N.E. point of that island, in twenty-three fathoms upon ooze, waiting till the western stream of the tide began to return to the eastwards which was about ten at night, when we proceeded on our course.
[Footnote 277: Purchas gives two relations of this voyage, one brief, "lest the longer one might interrupt the more delicate muses of some readers with sea-sickness, the other for those that are more studious of nautical knowledge." On the present occasion, we have preferred the more extended narrative, and have therefore united both accounts as given by Purchas, being the remainder of S.4. joined to the whole of S.5. giving one instance of minute nautical remarks of our earlier navigators.--E.]
The 28th at night, we anchored in 18 f. on ooze, Pulo Antekero bearing N.E. three leagues off. Pulo Antekero bears N.N.E. 1/2 E. from Pulo Tunda, about eight leagues distant. The depth of water between the two islands, runs-from 16 f. to 26, and so to 22, 20, 18, 16, 14, and 12 f. all ooze. Pulo Antekero is westernmost of the islands which extend in a row from the bay of Jacatra, [or Batavia,] to the westward. Continuing our course, we anchored, in the evening of the 29th, in 15 f, Pulo Kero bearing N. by E. 1/2 E. 2-1/2 leagues off. Pulo Kero bears N.N.E. nearly from Antekero, six leagues off. After passing halfway between these islands we had 20, 18, 16, 14, 12 f. on ooze. At noon on the 30th we had Pulo Kero six leagues off, S. 1/2 E. our depth continuing 13,12,11 f. all ooze.
At noon on the 1st May, Pulo Kero bore S. 1/2 W nine leagues, and the depth 12 f. being just able to see that island from our top-mast head. By observation of the sun, we were then in lat. 4° 45' S. From noon till five p.m. our course was N.N.E. four leagues. We then anchored in 11 f. on ooze, having Pulo Kero by estimation thirteen league S by W. This night at nine, being still at anchor in the same place, I made the ship, by observation of the Crozies, in lat. 4° 40' S. allowing 29° for the complement of declination. We set sail at four a.m. of the 2d, and by noon had run about six leagues N.N.E. the depths continuing as before, 13, 12, 11 f. By noon of the 3d our course was S. by E. five leagues, the soundings as before, all the ground from Bantam roads hitherto being ooze. From Bantam for the first two days, we had land and sea breezes; afterwards, till the afternoon of the 2d, the wind was constant between E. and S.E. when the wind came northerly, and so continued till the 3d at noon. From Pulo Paniang to Pulo Antekero, the current set to the westwards, somewhat strong; but from thence we found the currents more gentle, and changing into every direction in the course of the twenty-four hours.
Our course from noon of the 3d till noon of the 4th was N.N.E. eleven leagues, the depths from 12 to 10-1/2 f. From noon this day till seven at night, we made 5-1/2 leagues N. and then anchored in 9-1/2 f. We weighed in the morning of the 5th. having but little wind and that variable, till half an hour after six, when it sprung up fresh at S.W. From four to nine a.m. we made three leagues N.E. 1/2 E. and from nine till noon only half a league N.W. by N. This day at noon we were in lat. 3° 30' S. when we descried a small island N.N.E. 1/2 E. four leagues off, which appeared at first like a great tree rising out of the see. From noon till six p.m. our course was five leagues N.W. We here saw two or three hummocks like islands, N. by W. seven leagues off. From thence till three a.m. of the 6th, we sailed W. six leagues. At six in the evening of the 5th we had 9 f. which increased as we stood westwards in the night, to 10, 11, and l2 f. and afterwards decreased to 8 f. where we came to anchor. The stream by night set S.E. and by day N.W. We weighed again at six a.m. of the 6th, and steered W.N.W. 1-1/2 league, when we had sight of many hummocks rising like so many islands, but which at length we perceived to be all one land. Coming now into 6-1/2 f. we altered our course to the N.E. making our course N.N.E. till noon, about 2-1/2 leagues; at which time, by an observation of the sun, we were in lat. 3° 20' S. We were now in 8 f. and found the current to set N.W. by W. About noon of this day, a junk belonging to Johor came up with us, which had been at Cheribon in Java, and was returning to Johor. The afternoon, we steered in with the eastern part of the hummocky land of Banka, making our course N.N.E. 1/2 N. in which we came again to 8 f. afterwards increasing regularly to 24 f. and then decreasing again to a quarter less 7 f. when we came to anchor against the E. point of that land, which bore from us N.N.E. 1/3 N. four leagues off.
We weighed in the morning of the 7th, and stood in nearer the point, in hopes of being able to pass through between that island and one which lay three leagues to the E. But in our way, we found the soundings, after increasing from 7 to 17 f. to decrease again to 6 and to one-half less 4 f. and about two miles off the point in the fair way we had only six feet water in the fair way, or mid-channel. To the eastwards, there appeared many islands, and by the report of the people in the junk, the sea is full of islands between the S.E. end of Banka and the island of Borneo. The S.E. end of Banka now bore N.N.E. 1/2 N. about two leagues off; and the land from this point to the entrance of the straits of Banka, lay W. by S. the straits being thirteen leagues from us. Where we lay at anchor, the before-mentioned point bearing N. by E. 1/2 E. 2-1/2 leagues off, we had an observation of the sun, giving the latitude of the ship 3° 8' S. Having little hope of finding a passage between Banka and Borneo among these islands, by reason of the fearful shoalings we had already met with, we resolved on the 8th to go through the straits between the island of Banka and Sumatra, called the Straits of Banka; wherefore we set sail, retracing as nearly as we could the course by which we came into the present shoal water; in which course we found still more dangerous shoalings than in our in-coming. After we had got about eight leagues off, S.S.W. from the before-mentioned point of Banka, we steered S.W. by W. the current setting N.W. which made our course nearest W. by S. In this course we proceeded five leagues, and anchored in 8 f. on ooze, about nine at night.
In the morning of the 9th, we descried Lucepara, N.N.W. seven leagues off, and steered towards it, till we had it N. two leagues. In this course we passed over a spit, where we had only 4-1/2 f. and 4-3/4. But on nearing Lucepara, we had 5-1/4 f. all ooze. We then steered N.W. by N. till Lucepara was N.E. of us, having 5 f. and the same ground. We then, went W.N.W. having always ooze, till we were within two leagues of the Sumatra shore in 6 f. The isle of Lucepara bore then E.S.E. 3-1/2 leagues off; and a hill on Banka with a deep swamp, N. by W. being about a sail's breadth open of the point of Sumatra, which bore N. by W. 1/2 W. from us, about three leagues off. We steered thence away with the said point N. by W. Having 6-1/2 and 7 f. soft ground, till we came within a league of the point, where edging too near we had but 5-1/2, and only 4-1/2 in the boat hard by us: But, if we had kept a little farther from the point, we might have gone in 7, 8, 9, and 10 f. all through the strait, borrowing carefully with the lead upon the Sumatra shore; whereas by keeping nearer to Banka than Sumatra, the soundings are very variable, sometimes deep, and sometimes shallow, and mostly foul ground. On the Sumatra shore, even if coming into shoal water, the ground is mostly soft ooze, and the soundings far more regular and certain.
In the evening of the 12th May, having brought the N.W. point of Banka to bear N.E. we opened two smooth hills with a little hummock between them; one of these hills being the northermost land of Banka, and bearing N.E. nine leagues, from the N.W. point of that island. This night we steered N.N.E. to get through the channel between Lingan and the N. end of Banka, having 23, 22, 20, 18, and 16 f. all ooze, till we came near the entrance, and afterwards 15, 14, 13 f. in going through the passage. Lingan rises at first in three islands, the northermost being larger than both the other two, being near two leagues long and full of hummocks. Among these three islands there are certain fragments of isles intermixed, like so many hay-cocks, which is a good mark whereby to know these islands. From the smooth hill which is the north end of Banka, to the south-westermost isle of Lingan, it is N. by W. ten leagues. From the middle of the largest isle of Lingan, which is the north-eastermost, there is another smooth island nine leagues off, E.N.E. 1/2 N. From that there is another flat island, and off the north point of the round smooth island, there is a little fragment like a rock. In the fair way between this island and Lingan, there are 14 and 13 f. the course being midway between, and to the N. to pass along by the E. side of Bintang. This day at noon, being the 12th May, our latitude was 1° S.[278] the greatest isle of the Lingan group being S.W. from us five leagues, whence we estimated its latitude to be 1° 10' nearly.
[Footnote 278: This is an evident error, as the northern side of the largest island of the Lingan group is exactly on the equator, and Bintam, or Bintang, is in lat. 1° N.--E.]
At noon of the 14th, having made way twenty-four leagues to the northward, by aid of the wind and a current setting to the north, we had sight of the high land of Bintang, rising with two hills and a deep swamp or hollow between, and, as we judged, twelve leagues from us. At this time, likewise, we had sight of three or four hummocks, S.W. by W. eight leagues off, which seemed separate islands. We had here 20 f. our soundings from Lingan being 14, 15, 17, 18, 19, and 20 f. From noon of the 14th till noon of the 15th, we made twenty-seven leagues N. 1/3 W. our soundings in these twenty-four hours being 21, 22, 23, and 24 f. From noon till three p.m. of the 15th we made 3 1/2 leagues, and then had sight of Pulo Laor, N.W. 1/2 N. about twelve leagues off, having then 27 f. the ground resembling fuller's earth. At night, Pulo Laor being N.W. by W. eight leagues off, we had 39 f. on ooze. From noon of the 15th till eight a.m. of the 16th, we made our course N.N.W. 1/2 W. fifteen leagues. At night of the 16th, Pulo Laor bore S.W. by S. five leagues; the body of the island of Hermano de Layo W.S.W. 1/2 W. seven leagues; and the S. end of Pulo Timon W. 1/2 N. ten leagues, its N.E. end being W.N.W. 1/2 W. ten leagues. We anchored this evening within four leagues of the N. point of Pulo Timon, in 24 f. streamy ground, that point bearing W. by S. 1/2 S. In the evening I sent my boat round the point, where they observed a town, with a junk riding close by the shore, and several proas fishing. One of these came to enquire what nation our people were of, and told them there was good fresh water at the town, with plenty of buffaloes, goats, and poultry.
In the morning of the 17th, we sent the Unicorn's longboat along with ours to the town, whence they came back in the evening with four butts of water each, not willing to fill more, as it was brackish. They found at the watering-place a junk belonging to Johor, fitted out for war, having twenty men armed with fire-arms, besides lances and javelins. They reported that they had taken a Chinese junk, which they had sold on the coast of Johor; the nokhada sending me word, that he would assist me against the Portuguese at the hazard of his life. In the bay next to the southwards of Pulo Timon, we found excellent fresh water, but could not conveniently take it in by means of our long-boat, which drew five feet water when loaded. Having thus spent the day to little purpose, we set sail at the beginning of the night, directing our course for Patane, and steering N. all night with little wind.
At noon of the 18th, we were in the latitude of 3° 40' N. At four p.m. we had sight of Pulo Tingoran, N.N.W. fifteen leagues off. At night we passed by Tingoran, about six leagues to the eastwards, having 28, 30, and 32 f. on soft ground. At six a.m. of the 19th, Tigoran bore W.S.W. seven leagues from us, when we had thirty-six f. soft ground. At noon of this day we were in lat. 5° 30' N. Tingoran bearing S. 1/3 E. fourteen leagues off, by which we estimated the latitude of that island to be 4° 50 N. We had likewise, at noon, the south isle of Pulo Rowdon, [Ridang,] N.W. by W. seven leagues off. The same night at eight, I observed the croziers, making the latitude of the ship 5° 48' N. At this time, the largest of the Ridang isles, which is the eastermost, bore from us due W. four leagues distant. From eight this night, till noon of the 20th, our course was nearly N.W. by W. nine leagues, our sounding being from 28 to 17 f. The northermost of the Pulo Ridang isles was then S. 1/3 E. four leagues off, being a round hummock, much like Pomo in the gulf of Venice, but somewhat higher and more complete. These isles consist of good high land, having fair depth all along their eastern side to seawards, and I am told have a free and safe channel between them and the main land. There are thirteen or fourteen islands in this group, great and small.
From noon of the 20th till eight in the morning of the 21st, our course was W.N.W. nine leagues. We saw two hills by the water-side, bearing W. and five leagues off, resembling two great tortoises. From Pulo Tingoran all the way to Patani, the land up the country is very high, while that just within the coast is low, with a sandy beach. This is the case for at least twenty leagues south of Patani, but how much farther I know not. In the afternoon of the 20th, while standing towards the two hills just mentioned as resembling tortoises, we came from 17 into 14 and 13 f. with hard ground; and as we drew nearer these hills, the depth again increased to 19 f. on ooze, and then shoaled again to 18 and 17 f. on ooze.
The 21st of May, being Sunday, from eight a.m. to seven p.m. our course was N.W. 3/4 W. thirteen leagues, keeping mostly within four leagues of the low sandy shore, the depth all the way being 15, 14, and 13 f. We then anchored in 13-3/4 f. streamy ground, the northermost point in sight, falling down from a reasonably high land at the far end of the low land, bore from us W.N.W. 1/2 N. near 3-1/2 leagues off. S.E. by S. from this point, six leagues off, there is a rock, as high above water as the hull of a small ship, which we passed about 1-1/2 league on its E. side, finding no alteration in the soundings. This point I named the Gurnet's Head. From this point, the land trends W.N.W. and W. by N. all the way to the entrance into Patani roads, being all low land from the Gurnet's Head to the point of the road, this point being the lowest of all. The distance from the Gurnet's Head to that low point is six leagues, all the way of fair depth till coming near the low point of the road, to which a good birth must be given, as there lies a shoal from it half-way over to the western shore, wherefore it must not be approached too near, till you find in the first place the shoaling of the western shore, which is the softest ground. From the low point, in going across the bay to the western shore there are only from 5 f. to 4 1/2 when in the road; and then the low point bears from the anchorage, E.N.E. 1/3 E. the highest mountains in the western side of the bay bearing S.S.W. 1/3 W.
We anchored in the road of Patani on Thursday the 25th of May, when we found the Sampson and a Dutch pinnace there at anchor. I went ashore the day before to the English factory, where I found Mr Adam Denton and Mr Richard Welding, lately come from Jambee in Sumatra in a proa, with several of the Sampson's people, who were all rejoiced to see our ships coming into the port. On getting to the English house, I told Mr Denton that my chief purpose for coming here was for arrack and fresh victuals, of which we were in great need, upon which he gave immediate orders to procure every thing we needed, so that in six days we were supplied with sixteen butts of arrack and arrack-apee; three butts of which last we had from the Dutch, for which courtesy we were chiefly obliged by their anxiety to have us away. We had also beeves, goats, and poultry, in abundance. We also bought here dammar and oil, for the purpose of repairing our ships, as I understood these things were dear at Japan. I here found a small frigate or country bark, which had been bought by the English; and as she was of no great use there, it was agreed that she, with most of the English sailors, should attend upon us to Japan.
We departed from Patani on the 31st May; and at seven a.m. of the 1st June, we saw a small rock, just above water, being very dangerous for ships bound from Patani for the point of Camboja. When this rock bore N.N.E. 1/2 E. at the distance of a league, the high land over Gurnet Head was S.S.W. 1/4 W. eighteen leagues off; and by computation, the low point of Patani road was then eighteen leagues off, W.S.W. 1/2 S. After getting out of Patani road into 7 f. the depth increased regularly to 9, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, and 24 f. till we got sight of the rock; and two leagues from it we had 25 f. on ooze, as was the ground all the way over from Patani. This day at noon, we found the latitude of the ship to be 7° 20' N. the rock bearing W. about four leagues off.
From that time till the 3d, at noon, our course was E. 1/2 N. forty-five leagues, when we had sight of Pulo Hube, bearing E.N.E. 1/2 N. eight leagues off, having 14 f. on ooze, as we constantly had for the last forty-eight hours, the sounding being from 27 to 36 f. and thence decreasing again to 14 f. Pulo Hube rises at first as one round hill, and on coming nearer some high land is seen rising in hummocks, but not above two-thirds so high as the round hill, being all one land with it. Then another and smaller island is seen to rise, nearly of the same height with the hummocks, and close to the larger island. At the east end of this lesser round island, there are two little isles very near, and a mile east of them there is a long rock like the hull of a galley. This night we anchored in 13 1/2 f. on ooze, about three leagues from the largest and highest isle. In the morning of the 4th we weighed, and stood E. by S. with little wind. At six p.m. we had the body of Pulo Hube W. by N. four leagues off. From thence we steered E. by S. and E. till six next morning, but were so opposed by the current, that we made our course to the northward of east. From six a.m. of the 5th till six p.m. we ran fifteen leagues in the before-mentioned course, when we saw a very small round isle about four leagues to the southward, having a long flat rock S. from it about a mile, a good height above water. From Pulo Hube till three leagues from this island, our soundings were 13, 14, 15 f. and then 15, 14, 13 f. again, all ooze. When within two leagues of this small island, we had 13 f. on sand.
Here we descried Pulo Condor, its N. end bearing E. by N. from this small island about seven leagues off. This day at noon, we made our latitude 8° 42' N. the highest land on Pulo Condor bearing from us E. six leagues off. From Patani till we were in sight of Pulo Condor, the wind was mostly S.S.W. This day at noon, we steered away N.E. then N.E. by N. and in the night N.N.E. so that we made our course on the whole, till next day at noon, N.E. by N. about twenty-four leagues, the depths being 13 and 14 f. on ooze. At noon of the 6th, we had sight of two hummocks on the coast of Camboja, bearing N. by E. nine leagues off, with low land to the westwards. From Pulo Condor till we had sight of this coast, the current set E. by N. At this time we had 12 f. on streamy ground. The 7th at noon, we were in lat. 10° 42' N. having run from the former noon twenty-five leagues N.E. 1/2 N. and found that the current had carried us ten leagues to the N. of our computation. Our depths were in these twenty-four hours, from 12, to 16, 20, and 24 f. and then back to 20, 18, 16, 14, on sandy ground.
From the before-mentioned two hummocks, as we coasted along, about eight leagues from the land, sometimes more, and sometimes less, we saw high land all the way in the inland country, and a smooth land in most places by the sea side, about the height of the Lizard, with many plots upon it resembling white sand, as well as the sea side. The first of these white spots was on a point ten leagues W. of Cape Cessier, which we at first thought had been a town with fair white houses and white walls. This day, at noon, being the 7th, when in the lat. of 10° 48' N. that Cape bore from us about six leagues W.N.W. 1/2 W. At noon of the 8th, we were in lat. 11° 30' N. having gone twenty leagues N.E. 1/2 N. from noon of the 7th. From the 8th, till noon of the 9th, we steered along shore N.N.E. sixteen leagues, N. by E. six leagues, N. six leagues, and N. by W. nine leagues, making our course in all N. by E. 1/3 E. thirty-six leagues. We now had Cape Varella[279] W.S.W. eight leagues off, and were in the lat. of 13° 13' N. This cape is called Jentam by the Chinese, signifying a chimney in their language, because it has a sharp hummock on the top of the hill, much like a chimney on the top of a house. From noon of the 9th, till noon of the 10th, our course was N. two-thirds W. twenty-six leagues; our latitude on the 10th being 14° 30' N. when we were about ten leagues from the land.
[Footnote 279: Cape Verelly is in lat. 12° 40' N. on the coast of Cochin China--E.]
The 11th, at noon, we were in lat. 16° 10' N. having run, from the foregoing noon, thirty-three one-third leagues due N. Next noon, the 12th, we had made other twenty-six leagues, N.N.E. 1/2 N. and were in latitude 17° 40' N. the current having set us six leagues to the N. of our computation. This evening, at six, we descried the island of Aynam, [Hainan] its high land bearing N.W. by N. twelve leagues, and we had run from noon seven leagues N.E. From hence, till noon of the 13th, our course was N.E. by E. twenty-two leagues, and we were then in lat. 18° 30' N. We this morning chased a Portuguese frigate, but she was so light that we could not get near her. The 14th, at noon, we were in 19° 35' N. our course having been these twenty-four hours N.E. twenty-six leagues, the current having carried us four leagues to the N. of our reckoning; and yet this day at noon, in seventy-three f. on ooze, our boats found no current at all. We here saw many ripplings, like the overfalls of some rapid tide, yet found none. At six this evening, we again anchored our boat in sixty-eight f. on oozy sand, and found a slight current to the southwards. By the 15th, at noon, we had ran seventeen leagues N.E. by N. and our latitude was 28° 30' N. the current having carried us seven leagues to the north of our reckoning. We had here forty-five f. sandy ooze. The 16th, at noon, in 21° 20' N. we had sight of three islands, the eastermost N.N.W. the westermost N.W. and the nearest land nine leagues off. We had here twenty-two f. on oosy sand, the wind being E.S.E. and very fresh; but, from Cape Verelly till now, the wind had always blown from S.S.E. to S.W. Next morning, at eight, we had twenty-eight f. on ooze, having run, from noon of the 16th, eleven leagues S.W. Finding the wind to increase, we thought it better to come here to anchor than to run back again.
In the morning of the 18th June, the weather being somewhat fair, we endeavoured to weigh our anchor; but when it was right apeak, the cable gave way, though a new one, never before wetted, by which we lost our anchor. Just at this time the Unicorn fired a gun, on which I sent immediately to know what was amiss, and was informed she had sprung a great leak, by which all her men were tired out with bailing. I then sent thirty men to her aid, to ease her crew, till it might please God they should find the leak. This day we had the wind at S.E. and stood E. making our course N.E. till six p.m. when we again saw the former high island ten leagues from us, bearing N.N.E. one-third E. This evening our men returned from the Unicorn with the joyful news that the great leak was firmly stopped. From six p.m. till midnight, we made fourteen leagues N.E. when we had twenty f. in ooze. From that time, till five next morning, we stood to the southwards, making a S.W. course three and a half leagues.
From five in the morning of the 19th, we cast about towards the land, with the wind at S.E. making a course N.E. and at six o'clock were within eight leagues of the before-mentioned high island, bearing from as N. by E. At eight this morning, Mr Roberts, the master of the Unicorn, came on board the James, to inform me that another great leak had broke out in that ship, and that it was necessary to seek out for some smooth place to ride in at anchor, to enable them to search out the leak, and fit their foremast better into the step. Upon this intelligence, I resolved to bear up under the lee of the great island, which bore now from us N. by E. in hope to find there a smooth anchorage for the purposes of the Unicorn. There were many more islands in sight, both to the eastwards and westwards of us, but that being the nearest, and the likeliest for our purpose, and only three leagues from us, we steered for it. The night approaching, and the wind becoming dull, we plied off and on till morning of the 20th, when the wind had come round so much to the northwards, that we could not fetch our intended place of anchorage. I went aboard the Unicorn this day to enquire into their intentions and situation, when I found them all willing to stand on our original course, as the wind was fair, and they were hopeful of being able to overcome their leak. I therefore sent all my Lascars on board the Unicorn, in aid of her crew, after which we stood on our course all that day till midnight, with a fair wind and favourable weather.
Towards midnight of the 20th June, the wind increased so much, that we had to lay our ship a-try all night under her main-course. In the morning of the 21st, we saw the Unicorn a league and a half astern of us, having a foresail and spritsail out, which I afterwards perceived was for the purpose of floating her about towards the shore. I immediately caused our fore-courses to be made ready to float our ship about after the Unicorn, though we had little hope of being able to assist her in any thing, as the sea was become very rough. While our men were throwing loose the forecourse, there came so violent a gust, that they were obliged to furl it again, otherwise it had been blown away. After the gust was over, we set our foresail, and, to make her wear better round, we brailed up our main-course, part of it being blown out of the bolt rope before the men could furl it. After that was up, we put our helm hard a-weather, thinking the ship would come round, but all in vain, for our ship would not wear beyond two or three points, and then came to again. The sea was now so much grown that we durst not let fall our spritsail, and the wind so violent that we could not loosen our fore-topsail; and by this time the Unicorn had gone out of sight.[280] Finding we could not wear ship, we steered away as near as we could lie S. by E. till noon, having by that time made a course S. by E. thirteen leagues from the southermost island we had seen over night, which I called the Morocco Saddle, or Saddle island, because of a high hill having a deep swamp or hollow between two peaked tops. This Saddle island is in lat. 21° 45' N.[281] There are four or five small islands close to its western side, and three on its eastern side. Besides which, there are many other islands in different directions, some N.W. others W.N.W. and W. by N. the southermost of all the islands in sight bearing from Saddle island to the W. about fifteen leagues off.
[Footnote 280: It will be seen in the sequel that she was lost on the coast of China, probably run on shore to save the men's lives from the effects of the increasing leak.--E.]
[Footnote 281: The indicated latitude leads to one of the numerous islands on the coast of China, at the month of the bay of Canton, about the longitude of 113° E. from Greenwich.--E.]
This afternoon our ship became very leaky, having suddenly four and a half feet water in the hold, which kept both pumps going a long while before we could free her. Towards evening, it pleased God that we discovered three or four great leaks between wind and water; and after our carpenters had stopped them, we had great comfort, as we could then let the pumps stop half an hour, and afterwards free the ship in a quarter of an hour. From this day, the 21st, at noon, till noon of the 22d, we made five leagues S.S.W. with a pair of courses, and nine leagues S.W. by W. a-hull, having twenty-seven and a half f. in ooze. In the afternoon of the 22d, the violence of the wind and waves began to abate, and our ship became tighter, which plainly shewed that most of our leaks were between wind and water, wherefore, on the first fair weather, I caused our carpenters to search the ship's sides, where they found and stopped many bad places, some a yard long, where the oakum was all rotten in the seams.
The 24th, we had sight of a great island to the N. about seven leagues off; having a high hill on its southern end, being the island formerly mentioned as about fifteen leagues W. from Saddle island. From thence, till the evening of the 26th, our course was S. by W. twenty-four leagues, the depths increasing from nineteen to thirty-six f. on ooze. We had here a small round island S.W. by N. two leagues off, nearly in latitude 20° 20' N.[282] This island has four small islands on its S.W. side, but all of them considerably lower, for we saw this from the distance of at least ten leagues, rising in the shape of a Chinese hat. From hence, till noon of the 27th, our course was E. by N. two-thirds N. twelve leagues. This morning at two o'clock the wind veered round to S.S.E. and at noon was due S. From noon of the 27th, to noon of the 28th, we stood E.N.E. eighteen leagues, and had then almost forty-one f. on ooze. Till noon of the 29th, we made other eighteen leagues E.N.E. when we were in 21° 10' N. To the 30th, at noon, other eighteen leagues E.N.E. To noon of 1st July, our course was E.N.E. 1/2 N. twenty-two leagues, our latitude being then 22° 10' N. Here, from the topmast-head we saw land N.N.W. 1/2 N. From noon this day, till seven p.m. we sailed N.E. by N. six leagues. At six this evening we saw three Chinese fishing-boats.
[Footnote 282: There must be a material error here, as the latitude in the text would carry us back to the peninsula to the north of Hainan, more than two degrees of longitude backwards. Indeed, the text seems corrupted in many respects, even the bearings being extremely suspicious.--E.]
This evening the wind came up at E.S.E. with which we stood to the southwards; and having sprung our main topmast only a little before, we could only bear a course and bonnet, and therefore made our way no better than S.W. From noon of the 2d, till eight p.m. our way was S. four leagues. Till noon of the 3d, we sailed N.N.W. 1/4 W. seven leagues. We here saw land twelve leagues off, from N. to N.E. rising in certain hummocks, which land I estimated to be nearly in 22° 45' N. On the 8th, I had an observation of the Scorpion's Heart, by which I made our latitude 22° 35' N. Next day, at noon, on observation of the sun gave the latitude 23° 6' N. At this time we had sight of the high land of Logosse, eleven leagues off, N.W. by N.[283] This morning we saw eight or more fishing boats, and came within hail of one, but could not persuade the people to come on board.
[Footnote 283: The latitude of the text points to the coast of China in about the longitude of 117°E. but no such name as Logosse occurs in these parts.--E.]
On the 10th we had sight of some small islands, one of which, rising in form of a sugar-loaf, bore from us W.N.N. about eight leagues off.[284] We this day hoisted out a small boat, built by our carpenters upon the forecastle, by which we made trial of the current, and found it to set E.N.E. At eight this evening, we anchored in 28 f. having made no way at all this afternoon but with the current, which went at the rate of about a mile an hour N.E. The 11th we weighed, and drove away with the current to the N.E. having no wind. This day at noon we had sight of the high land of Formosa above the clouds, the highest part bearing S.E. by E. about eighteen leagues off, the nearest island on the coast of China bearing seven leagues from us N.W. We here saw great numbers of fishing boats all round about us, which sent little boats to us with fish, for which we gave them double the value to encourage them to come back. At six this evening, the wind sprung up at N.N.E. by which, and some help of the current setting N.E. by E. we made our way nine leagues E. to the 12th at noon. Our latitude was then 25° 20' N. The high land of Formosa being S.E. and the nearest port eight leagues off; the northern point ten leagues E. by N. and the depth 46 fathoms on ooze. The 13th the northern point of Formosa bore E.S.E. ten leagues off, being then in lat. 25° 40' N.
[Footnote 284: These appear to have been the Poughoy, or Pescadores islands, off the western coast of Tai-ouan, or Formosa.--E.]
The 22d of July at noon, we were in lat. 32° 40' N. the great sound of Langasaque, [Nangasaki,] being E. nine leagues off, and the S.E. of the Gotto isles W. by N. ten leagues off. The 23d, we arrived in a port of the island of Firando named Cochee, [Coetch,] which is about 4 1/2 English miles to the southwards of Firando haven.[285] On the 25th, Captain Cox sent a great number of funnies, or toe boats, to our assistance, by the help of which we got safe in the afternoon into the harbour of Firando, where we found the Swan and Expedition, sent hither, as I suppose, by the Dutch, for the disgrace of our nation in this remote part of the world. This day, before we got in, the Elizabeth brought in with her into Coetch, a frigate, containing silks and hides, and some sugar, her mariners being Japanese with some Portuguese, a part of whom were friars. Captain Adams, the admiral of the united fleet, arrived in the same place about three hours after me in the Moon, as likewise William Johnson in the Trow.
[Footnote 285: Coetch, about 17 miles W. by N. from Firando, the former on the western, and the latter on the eastern side of the island.--E.]
The 26th, a general council was held of all the English and Dutch, in the English house at Firando, when it was resolved to call in the ships that lay nearest the coast of Sashma, because we were certainly informed that the Portuguese frigates were just arrived from Macao at Nangasaki. The 30th, the king of Crats came aboard the James, appearing much delighted to see such a ship, demanding of the jurabassa if this were one of the English frigates; whence we concluded the Dutch had reported we had only small ships like frigates. The 1st of August we held another council at the English factory, to make choice of two men, an Englishman and a Hollander, to carry a present to the emperor. As I could not be spared so long from the James, nor Captain Adams from his fleet, we made choice of Mr Charles Cleavengar, commander of the Palsgrave, and Mr Joseph Cockram, Cape merchant of the fleet, to go on the part of the English, and Jasques le Febre of the Harlaem, and Mathias de Brooke, were chosen on the part of the Dutch.
On the 6th the Palsgrave arrived in Coetch roads. The Bull arrived there on the 7th, having cut away all her masts by the board, as they said to save the ship and goods. This day Captain Adams and I paid a visit to the king of Firando, carrying a small present, which was well received, and we were courteously entertained. On the 9th the king invited the English and Dutch to dine with him, shewing respect to our nation by placing us on his right hand, while the Dutch sat on his left, and the first dish of every course was offered to us.
The 4th September we had a great tuffoon from the north, which forced the Moon on shore, and overset the Expedition, which instantly went down. The Trow had likewise been overset, had not her master veered out the cable, and allowed her to go on shore, stern foremost. The 5th I sent all my men aboard the Moon to help her off when we all strove a long time to no purpose; but she was again got off on the 13th, having fortunately received no damage by lying so long ashore. Having every thing taken out of the James Royal, except some bars of lead to help in trimming her over, she was hove down on the 19th almost halfway to the keel. The 21st we brought her down so low as to see part of her keel, and then began to sheath her with all expedition, and in four days the carpenters sheathed the whole of one side, from the keel up to her lower bends. The 27th I sent a cooper, two quarter-masters, and a butcher, to Nangasaki, to kill and salt such meat as was provided for us.
On the 12th October, we got the James hove down on the other side to the keel, and on this side we found four very dangerous places, where the main plank was eaten quite through by the worms. Into each of these we graved a piece of plank, and in one of them we drove a trunnel where none had been before. We also nailed a piece of lead on the end of the bolt, which had been formerly driven through the keel to stop our great leak. Our ship was then righted, both sides being finished up to the lower bends. The Moon was likewise finished on the 21st on both sides. The 24th we had news that Nangasaki was greatly injured by a fire which began in the Portuguese street, and consumed four or five of the richest streets in the city.
The 7th of December we departed from Firando, and anchored the same evening in the bay of Coetch. The 16th, Captain Cleavengar and Captain Le Febre returned to Firando from the court of the emperor, bringing the joyful news of having succeeded in their business. I took my leave of them on the 17th; and the wind being fair, with favourable weather, I set sail from the road of Coetch.
S.6. Voyage from Japan to Bantam, and thence Home to England.[286]
The 18th December at noon, the islands of Mexuma bore from us N.W. four leagues off, our course from Pomo being S.S.W. twenty-five leagues. At noon on the 19th, our latitude was 31° 32'N. the isles of Mexuma bearing N.E. by N. nine leagues off. The 12th January, 1621, we stood in for the coast of Sumatra, and anchored at midnight in the river of Palembangan in twelve fathoms. We weighed again in the morning of the 13th, steering along the Sumatra shore through the straits of Banka; and past midnight of the 14th we got to anchor near Pulo Paniang. The 16th, seeing four ships in Bantam roads, we weighed and stood a little way within Pulo Paniang, when the Pepper-corn's boat came to us with the master, Mr Morton, who told me there were two Dutch ships in the road and one French ship, the pangran having consented to grant trade, and that it had been agreed to share the pepper in thirds among them. I also learnt from him, that most part of our loading was already prepared for us at Jacatra. I set sail, therefore, in the morning of the 17th, and arrived that evening near Antilaky; and in the evening of the 18th we arrived in the bay of Jacatra, [now Batavia bay,] where we found the Charles, the Gift, and the Clove, as also two Dutch ships, the Leyden and the Sun. The Globe and the Bee were at Hector island.
[Footnote 286: In the former subdivision of this voyage a sufficient sample has been given of dry nautical detail of courses, bearings, winds, and soundings, and it does not seem necessary to insert the minute uninteresting detail of the return voyage to Bantam, which was along the coast of China, Cochinchina and Camboja, nearly retracing the former course.--E.]
I here found the master of the Unicorn with several of his ship's company, having come over in a junk, after losing his ship on the coast of China.[287] The James here discharged her lading, and was ready to reload for England, there being here at this time, in the Charles, Clove, and Gift, about 600 tons of pepper and other goods, and the Bear daily expected from Jambee with 200 more, so that we had good hope of soon making up our loading with pepper, benzoin, cloves, and silk. Having taken in our whole loading of pepper, except fifty-five pekuls, and a few sapetas of silk and some cloves, I departed in the morning of the 26th February from the road of Jacatra, and set sail for England.
[Footnote 287: Purchas, II. 1700, informs us, that the Unicorn being wrecked on the coast of China, the company saved themselves and part of their goods on shore. At first the rude Chinese would have assaulted and rifled them; but they stood on their defence, till a magistrate came and rescued them from the hands of the vulgar, after which they had kind usage and just dealing. They were allowed to purchase two vessels, with all necessary provisions, for their departure, and in these, part of the company went to Japan, and the other to Malacca.--Purch.]
In the afternoon of the 20th May, we arrived in the road of Saldanha, [Table-bay,] at the Cape of Good Hope. We here found the Ann Royal and the Fortune, two ships belonging to the honourable Company, and three Dutch ships, the Gowda, Black Bear, and the Herring, all bound for Bantam and Jacatra. We trimmed our ship on the 21st, and on the 22d we sent some water-casks on shore, and set up a tent for our sick men and coopers, landing twenty-five men as a guard for their protection. This night I sent out sixty men, along with sixty Dutchmen, in quest of cattle, but they returned without procuring any.
We left Saldanha bay in the morning of the 6th June, with the wind at S.S.E. The 21st, at six in the morning, we got sight of St Helena, and about ten in the forenoon of the 22d, we anchored in Chappel Bay, half a mile from the shore, in twenty-six fathoms. The 25th, we changed to the valley leading to the lemon-trees, being the best in all the island for refreshments. Having remained seven days at this island, where we filled our water-casks, and got at least fifty goats and hogs, and above 4000 lemons, we weighed anchor on the 29th, at nine a.m. The 16th of August we saw the high land of Pico, E.N.E. about 15 leagues off. The 15th September we got sight of the land's end of England; and on Tuesday the 18th of that month we arrived in the Downs, having been absent on this voyage, four years, seven months, and fourteen days.
SECTION XI.
VOYAGE OF THE ANN ROYAL, FROM SURAT TO MOKHA, IN 1618.[288]
The Ann Royal belonged to the fleet commanded by Martin Pring, of which an ample relation has been given in the foregoing section. The present section gives an account of a subordinate voyage, arising out of the former, and intended for settling a trade in the Red Sea. The Ann Royal was commanded by Captain Andrew Shilling, and this narrative is said by Purchas, to have been extracted from the journal of Edward Heynes, who appears to have been second merchant in the Ann.--E.
[Footnote 288: Purch. Pilgr. I. 622.]
Sir Thomas Roe, lord ambassador from his majesty to the Great Mogul, having given certain articles of instruction to Captain Andrew Shilling, commander of the Ann Royal, and Joseph Salbank, Edward Heynes, and Richard Barber, merchants in that ship, for establishing and conducting trade at Dabul or other places in the Red Sea, as they might see convenient, it was thought meet by Captain Martin Pring the general, Thomas Kerridge, and Thomas Rastell, on the 12th March, in a consultation on board the James Royal, that we should sail direct for the Red Sea, as the season was already too far gone for going to Dabul.
Sailing therefore from the road of Swally, we got sight of Aden on the 10th of April. The 13th, about seven in the morning, we passed the Bab, or straits of Bab-al-Mandub, so named from an island at the entrance, or mouth, of the Red Sea, and forming one side of the straits. About five in the evening we came in sight of Mokha; and as night was coming on, we cast anchor. Shortly after, a canoe came on board, sent by the governor to enquire who we were, and what were our intentions; and having given them an answer, they departed, having first begged a few biscuits. Next morning we weighed, and came again to anchor a league and half from the shore, when we saluted the town with nine guns. The water-bailey, or shahbander, brought off, as a present from the governor, a young bullock, two goats, with mangoes, limes, cucumbers, and water-melons. He welcomed us in the name of the governor, and desired us to send some persons on shore to inform the governor of the purpose of our arrival. About three in the afternoon, there came aboard a Jew born in Lisbon, together with an old renegado Venetian, who was in great favour with the governor, and in his name assured us of meeting with good usage to our content.
The 15th, Ali Asgee, the chief scrivano, sent a present of goats and fruits, with a message of welcome, by two old men of good condition, who were sent by the governor to remain aboard in pledge for such of us as were to go on shore, with many protestations of good usage. Accordingly, Mr Salbank and I went ashore, accompanied by two linguists and an attendant, carrying as a present for the governor, six yards of stammel broad cloth, six yards of green, a fowling-piece and a looking-glass. Above a thousand people were on the shore expecting our arrival, and several officers were in waiting to conduct us to the governor. His house was large and handsome, built of brick and stone, having a fair gate of entrance with a porter's lodge, and several servants in waiting. From the gate, we went into a great court, whence a winding stair of thirty steps led to a square terrace, from which we were conducted into a large room, at one end of which was a great bow-window looking towards the sea. The governor sat in this window, and there were others on the sides of the room, which looked to the wharf or landing-place. The floor of this room was all covered with fine mats, and towards where the governor sat, with fine Turkey carpets and Persian felts. Where he sat, there lay a party-coloured sattin quilt, with several rich cushions of damask and others of velvet. He was dressed in a violet-coloured vest of sattin, under which were garments of fine India muslin or calico, having on his head a sattin cap, wreathed round by a white sash. He was attended by the chief scrivano, the principal officers of the customs, some Turks of importance, many Indian merchants, and about an hundred servants. He seemed about fifty years of age, and his name was Mahomet Aga.
On our approach, and doing reverence, he bowed to us, and desired us to sit down, demanding who we were, and what was our business. We answered that we were Englishmen and merchants from London, who, by command of the ambassador of the king of England to the Great Mogul, with whom we had a league of peace and amity, had come to this place to treat for liberty of trade. That we were in friendship with the Grand Signior, and had free trade at Constantinople, Aleppo, and other places in the Turkish dominions, and hoped to enjoy the same here; for which purpose we were come to desire his and the pacha's phirmauns, giving us such privileges as we already had in other parts of the dominions of the Grand Signior, both for the present time and in future, as we meant to visit his port yearly with plenty of English and Indian commodities. We said likewise that we were commanded to say by the lord ambassador, that hearing there were sundry pirates, English, Dutch, French, Portuguese, Malabars and others, who infested the trade of this port, and principally that carried on by the Guzerats, who were our friends, we had his orders to free the seas of all such incumbrances, protecting all honest merchant ships and junks from injury. These, we said, were the true causes of our coming here.
The governor then rose up and bid us welcome, applauding our declared purposes, but asked why we were so fearful as not to come on shore without pledges. We answered, that about six years before, some of our countrymen being here, were enticed on shore by fair promises of good usage, who were betrayed and imprisoned by the then governor, and several of them murdered. For these reasons, we were under the necessity of being careful of our safety. We said moreover, that he would shortly be certified we were exactly what we professed, by means of two junks of Guzerat, one of which had not come this year, but for the pass and promise of the ambassador that they were to be protected in the voyage home by our ship, against the enterprizes of any pirates who might be in these seas, as one had been last year by some of our ships, which came opportunely to their rescue, and conducted her safely to their port, and had sent the chief commanders to England, to be tried and punished for their wrongs against the friends of our sovereign.
The governor acknowledged the friendly conduct of our nation in that affair, promising that we should live as safely on shore, and conduct our business with as much freedom and security, as in our own country, for which we should have his phirmauns, which he would procure to be confirmed by the pacha to our entire contentment. He said likewise that the former governor was a bad man, long since deposed, and now living at Constantinople in disgrace; and swore by his beard, and by Mahomet, that not a hair of our heads should be diminished, nor any wrong offered to us, as he should make proclamation of our liberties, that no one might pretend ignorance and do us harm or discourtesy. He desired us, therefore, to look out for a house for ourselves and our goods, commanding two of his chiauses to attend upon us, and recommended us to lodge with the Jew merchant till we could fit ourselves better, desiring him to assist us in all things.
After giving many thanks for his kindness, and delivering the present as from our captain, we went, by the advice of the Jew, to visit the scrivano, who is likewise chief customer or shahbander; and as he was not at home, his servant received and entertained us with much civility. They conducted us into an handsome room, not much inferior in building and furniture to that of the governor, where we had left their master, who soon came home and welcomed us with much politeness, assuring us that all the governor had promised should be faithfully performed, as he himself should see all executed, and had also power to see us righted. We were informed that this man's power was as great in Mokha as that of the governor, who was directed by him in all matters of importance. This officer seemed a hearty old man. After making us drink coffee and sherbet, we took our leaves, and remained all night with the Jew.
Next morning we spent an hour in viewing the town, and observing the countenances of the people towards us, whom we found gentle and courteous, especially the Banians and Guzerats, many of whom reside here as merchants, shopkeepers, and mechanics, having neatly-built shops and warehouses. Their market or bazar seemed well furnished with all manner of necessaries, among which were plenty of fruits, which are brought daily from the country. Most of the town is built of brick and stone, neatly plastered over with Paris plaster, some of the houses being two stories high, and all flat-roofed, with terraces on the top, on which in summer they construct lodges of canes and mats, in which they sleep and spend the first quarter of the day, having at that time a fresh breeze from the sea. All the rest of the day at that season is so hot that they can hardly endure even a shirt. Mokha lies quite level along the sea-shore, being about two miles from north to south, and contains many good-looking houses, with three principal mosques. The streets are kept clean, every person having to sweep and water before his door every morning and evening, so that they resemble sandy alleys for bowling, more than streets. No filth is allowed to be thrown into the streets, but must all be carried to an appointed place, where it is scoured out by the sea. In fine, I have never seen a sweeter, cleaner, or better ordered town any where.
The wharf is situated between the governor's house and that of the scrivano, and is about twelve score square.[289] Near this, and adjoining the governor's house, there is a platform or fort, built of hewn stones, having battlements towards the sea, being about forty paces square, in which there are thirteen or fourteen pieces of ordnance of little value. Over against the landing-place two fair brass cannons are planted, above five feet long. At the other end, is the Alfandica, where there is a brass gun six feet long, carrying a large ball. Besides these defences, there is a stone house at the north end of the town, built like a sconce or redoubt, with a few pieces of ordnance; but they trust little in their ordnance, relying mostly on their soldiers, of whom they have always 200 in the town, and about 300 more in the country, within a day or two days march, who are all constantly in readiness for service.
[Footnote 289: This is obscure, as it is not said whether it be 240 feet, yards, or paces.--E.]
The son of Cojah Nassan, the principal India merchant of the town, whom we waited upon at his house, promised us all kindness, and regaled us with tobacco and coffee, as is usual among these people. We went afterwards to wait upon the governor before we returned on board. He rose up at our entry to meet us, causing us to sit down by him, and repeated all the fair promises of free trade he had given the day before, declaring that he would deny us nothing that was reasonable. He then told us there was another governor shortly to succeed him, who was as his brother, and honester even than himself, who would faithfully perform every thing he had promised. At our request, the governor ordered the water-bailiff to furnish us at all times with boats, either for our conveyance, or to carry water to the ship. From the governor, we again went to visit the scrivano, who received us with much civility, promising to come aboard to visit our ship, and compliment our captain. After treating us with coffee, we took leave, and returned to the ship, when the pledges were dismissed, acknowledging the good treatment they had received, and were saluted on going ashore with five guns.
On the 17th, the scrivano, with our two pledges, our Jew friend, and twenty other persons, came aboard, bringing a bullock, with bread, quinces, and other fruits, a great round cake or pasty, like puff-paste, in which were several fowls and chickens, well seasoned and baked, and most excellent eating. We also, with a large quince pye, and many crabs, together with sack and cordials, added our best welcome. The scrivano was so well pleased with his reception, that he insisted upon becoming the sworn brother of our captain, which was accordingly celebrated with a cup of sack; and, after much mirth, and having taken a view of our ship, he departed highly gratified.
We were well supplied with water by several poor people of Mokha, who brought it off to the ship at a reasonable rate. Also, with the concurrence of the governor and scrivano, we made every junk that arrived anchor under our guns, and to ride in that situation till they discharged their cargo; which indeed the governor wished us to do, because some junks passed by that port to trade at others, to the injury of Mokha At six in the evening of the 21st of April, we had a violent storm of wind off the land, accompanied by much thunder and lightning, but no rain, which continued for half an hour, all the rest of the night being extremely hot. Although we rode above a league from the shore, this tempest brought great quantities of dust, and even sand on board. The 25th, we had a message from the scrivano, saying that the governor and he had received letters from the pacha at Sinan, commanding them to entertain us with all manner of kindness, and to give us free trade, with liberty to reside among them in all quietness and security.
On the 27th the new governor arrived, when the ordnance of the town, and of our ship and the several junks in the road, all fired to welcome his arrival. He sent the former pledges on board to return thanks for our salute, accompanied by a present of plantains, limes, mangoes, melons, and bread, with one bullock, promising, in the name of the pacha, as free trade as our nation had in Constantinople. The pledges remained all night aboard, and went ashore with us next day, when we found the new and the old governors sitting together at the end of a large room, much in the same way as we had found the old one at our first arrival. The new governor was named Regib Aga, and was accompanied by several principal Turks, and by all the principal merchants from Surat, Diu, Dabul, Scindy, Calicut, and Cananore. On our approach, he and the other Turks only moved their bodies, but all the merchants rose up to salute us. He made us sit down beside him, and told us that the pacha had commanded him to give us satisfaction in all things; and that he knew besides, we were of a nation in friendship with the Grand Signior, and had free trade in Constantinople, Aleppo, and other parts of the Turkish empire, being a nation of a friendly and honest disposition, and we should therefore always find him disposed to give us free trade, and every other courtesy In reply, we told him we proposed, at our next coming to Mokha, if our reasonable requests of a free trade were granted, to settle a permanent factory at this place, and to come yearly to the port, with plenty of English and India goods, and should defend the trade against pirates. We even distantly hinted, that it was needless to deny us a free trade, being in a condition to force it if refused, and to hinder all others from coming hither, the fear of which had already caused some junks to pass by Mokha to Jidda, the port of Mecca, a town of great trade, 150 leagues farther up the Red Sea, and to other places.
The new governor replied, that we should be made as welcome as in any place of our own country; and swore by God, and Mahomet, and by his own beard, that we should live as free from all injury as in our own land. We asked what security he would give us besides his word, when he said we should have his phirmaun under his chop, or seal, and would procure us the same from the pacha. With this we seemed satisfied, and gave him many thanks; and indeed they all seemed perfectly willing to give us every satisfaction, yet, in my opinion, not from good-will or justice, but from fear, as they knew we were able to intercept their whole trade. After some conversation about our ambassador, who now resided at Constantinople, and about the Portuguese and Spaniards, whom Rajib said were proud and faithless nations, we spoke of Sir Henry Middleton, asking the cause of their treacherous conduct to him and his people. He answered, that the then Vizier was a bloody, cruel, and ill-minded man, and made worse by the instigation of the Turks and Arabs of Mokha, who were enraged by the uncivil behaviour of our people, who made water at the gates of their mosques, forced their way into the houses after the citizens wives, and being daily drunk in the streets, would fight and quarrel with the people,[290] things hateful in their eyes. These were only in part the cause, for the covetousness of the governor, hoping to have got their ship and goods, was the main cause of that scandalous conduct, for which he was soon afterwards sent to Constantinople to answer for his crimes.