Dictionary (continued 6)

Side stitch—made similarly to the prick s., the stitches, however, being laid just at the side of where the needle came thru. Employed for especial neatness and firmness.

Side tabs—trade term for standing shirt collars with small flaps on each side, beneath which the scarf is held and prevented from “riding”.

Sideburns—vernacular for short side whiskers.

Signet ring—see Seal r.

Silesia—a light, stout, closely woven, fine twilled, calendered cotton material used for linings.

Silesia seam—a strong s. finish employed in making garments of fabrics that are liable to slip or pull apart or that have little 230strength, specifically a strip of silesia laid under a seam and stitcht to same on both sides.

Silk—too exhaustiv for this book; you know what it is, or ought to, for it has been used since 3400 B. C. See encyclopedia for lengthy treatise.

Silk beaver—see Beaver.

Silk braid—a fine, firm tape or b. used by tailors for binding edges of garments, etc., woven fairly close but flexible, of various widths, denominated “lignes”, and also, according to purposes for which designed, known as flat b., half-and-half-b., trouser-b., etc.

Silk braid button—a b. made on a wooden or metal mold covered with silk braid, used on dress coats, waistcoats and overcoats.

Silk hat—an uncomfortable piece of aristocratic (?) headgear having the faculty of elongating the tall and stunting the short, and a style of headdress perennially threatened with retirement, but which seems to be quite as cheerfuly ineradicable as dandelions in a grass plot.

Silk-mixt—wool, cotton, linen, etc., intermixt with silk in the yarn.

Silk mixtures—trade name for worsted and woolen cloths, having decorativ threads of silk intersperst in the weaving, or woven partly of yarns in which the silk threads are twisted.

Silk-plated—a s. face on a cotton or wool body, as silk-p. hosiery.

Silk stick—a piece of wood about 2½ × 12 inches, partly covered with cloth, used by tailors for holding sewing silk in such a way that it may readily be drawn out, a needleful at a time, without snarling.

Silk stocking—epithet applied to aristocrats unexpectedly meddling in politics or other affairs that do not ordinarily concern them.

Silk tests—see Elasticity t., Flame t., Pure dye t., Weighted s. t., Cotton t., etc.

Silker—Briticism for silk hat.

Silkopolis—Paterson, N. J., where most of the domestic silk goods are manufactured.

Silkworm—bombyx mori, attacus ricini, attacus cynthia, telea polyphemus, et al.—all of which probably tells you little more than you know. Encyclopedias are good investments—get one.

Silvalin—a yarn or weaving material spun from a sort of paper obtained from wood, manufactured in Southern Germany. Probably an incorrect spelling of Xylolin (qv).

Silver fox—the most valuable of all fox furs. Single skins are often sold as high as $500.

Silver gilt—(1) gilded silver; (2) spurious gilding of s. by means of a yellow lacquer.

231Silver headed—getting along in years.

Silver plated—baser metal coated or plated with s.

Silver stick—same as gold s.

Silver top—jocular for a gray haired person.

Simitar—see Scimitar.

Simulated cuff—in tailoring, a welt, plait or other imitation of a turned back c., on a coat sleeve.

Singeing—the process of removing nap from the surface of fabrics by means of heat or flame.

Single-breasted—fastened with a single row of buttons or other fastening and having but one thickness or leaf of the garment or fabric at the breast. Compare Double-breasted.

Single-breasted cutaway—see C. frock coat and Frock coat.

Single-breasted frock coat—(1) a f. c. made with full straight hanging skirts and unspliced foreparts; a “s. b. Prince Albert”; (2) a cutaway f. c. See Frock c.

Single-breasted Prince Albert—(a misnomer, the “Prince Albert”, so-called, being strictly a double-breasted frock); except for a single row of buttons, of the same general style as the double-breasted or P. A. frock.

Single-breasted sack coat—see Sack c.

Single crepe—a black silk c., less crinkly and softer than double c. (qv); used for light mourning. See Crepe.

Single cuff—(1) an imitation coat sleeve c.; (2) an unfolded shirt c. Compare Double c.

Single soled—having but one sole; cheap; poor.

Single-stitcht—tailor’s term for an edge finish obtained by stitching on machine at a stated distance from the actual edge (as “1–16 in. s. s.”) the edges having first been joined and turned.

Single-stitcht seam—see Cord s.

Single warp—a term used (1) in reference to yarns, meaning that the warp threads are single and not two or more ply; also (2) in connection with fabric construction indicating a single system of warp threads with, say, a double system of weft or filling threads.

Singles—reeled filaments of raw silk twisted for firmness but not doubled.

Singlestick—a light ash rod or stick, used as a substitute for the sword in fencing exercises.

Singlet—(1) an aboriginal waistcloth; (2) an undershirt; (3) an unlined waistcoat similar to a doublet.

Sir Knight’s coat—(Masonic) a single-breasted frock c. of black cloth, with standing military collar, the front closing with 11 buttons. Compare Commander’s c. and Fatigue blouse.

Sissy—opposit of tomboy.

Size—a unit of measurement.

232Size—to size up; to form an opinion concerning a person or thing, the equivalent of to take one’s measure.

Size stick—a shoe dealer’s foot measure.

Size strap—a foot measuring tape used by shoe dealers.

Size ticket—a small, square paper ticket with a big size number sewed or pinned to the tail of a coat—which the customer sometimes is allowed to wear away to show that he is a readymade man.

Sizes—trade term for an assortment or range of sizes and shapes.

Sizes—in the readymade clothing trade garments are classified as regular, long, stout, slim, short-stout, corpulent, extra stout, long-stout, long-slim, etc., indicating normal proportions and variations thereof; all of which see.

Sizing—(1) the process of strengthening warp yarns by means of a gummy preparation to enable them to withstand the weaving process without chafing or breaking; (2) a finishing operation, similarly achieved, applied to certain grades of cotton, linen or silk fabrics for purposes of fictitious weight and appearance. See Glaze and Washable.

Sizing—a process in hat manufacture where the hat, still in the large cone as delivered from the forming department, is carefully shrunken by continual rolling, sqeezing, dipping in hot water, etc., until reduced or fitted to its proper size, but still retaining the cone shape.

Sizy—overloaded with dressing.

Skating cap—(1) a knitted toque; (2) a turban c. of fur or cloth.

Skating jacket—a short, snug-fitting coat.

Skating shoe—a soft, flexible s. of less than regular hight.

Skean dhu—a Scottish highlander’s knife, worn in the stocking when in clan costume.

Skees—bed slats with footholds affording first-rate amusement to those fond of pitching head-first into snow banks.

Skein—a certain quantity of yarn or thread, wound, doubled and knotted. Compare Hank.

Skein dyes—trade term for fabrics dyed in the yarn before weaving. Compare Piece d., Ingrain d., Slub d., etc.

Skeleton—term applied to a coat made without lining.

Skeleton suit—a close-fitting s. of clothes, the jacket or vest having a series of buttons at the waist to which the trousers are attacht.

Ski—see Skees.

Skilts—a kind of short trousers worn by boys and farmhands in Colonial times; they reacht to just below the knee, were very broad in the legs, but fitted snugly at the waist, needing no brace to support them.

Skimpt—done in a superficial or careless way. (Skimped.)

233Skin (to)—trade term for leather with grain so tender that it peels or barks easily.

Skin wool—see Pulled w.

Skinner’s—trade diminutiv for the general line of silk goods, especially lining silks and satins, made by Wm. Skinner Mfg. Co.

Skins—trade term for the hides of small animals, as sheep, goat, deer, etc., and for the lighter forms of leather. Compare Hides.

Skirt—the lower or hanging part of a coat, shirt, etc.; a peplum.

Skirt pocket—any p. made in the skirts or tail-part of a coat.

Skirt strap—a narrow band-like piece sewn to the waist seam of an evening dress coat, extending from the skirt (of which it is usually an integral part) to the front fore-edge.

Skirted—a term applied to certain wool fleeces imported into the U. S. from which the head, belly and breech wool (inferior parts) have been removed, to avoid full effect of the tariff.

Skirty—said of a coat with very full drapery.

Skive—in shoemaking, the process of shaving or paring leathers for joints, etc.

Skiver—(1) split leather; (2) a workman who burls edges of leather; (3) a machine for cutting counters and rands.

Skull cap—a light c., without peak or brim; closely fitting the skull.

Sky piece—slang for hat.

Slanting pocket—a p. placed at an angle.

Slash—a strip of tape, lace, braid, etc., worn on a non-commissioned officer’s sleeve to distinguish him from a private.

Slash pocket—see Slit p.

Slasher—a machine for sizing and finishing warp yarn.

Slasht—said of a garment as a doublet, having many decorativ slits underlaid or puft with fabric of different color. (Slashed.)

Slater’s—general term for standard flannels, uniform cloths, etc., made by S. Slater & Sons, Webster, Mass.

Sleeping bag—a large b.-like receptacle used at night by explorers, prospectors, campers, etc., usually of sheepskin with the wool on, waterproof duck, blanketing, etc., sometimes in combination with an air mattress, the individual creeping into it for warmth.

Sleeping stockings—see Bed socks.

Sleeping suit—a loose fitting, one-piece, sleeping garment, usually of canton flannel, or flannel, so fashioned as to cover the entire body except head and hands.

Sleeve—that part of a coat, or shirt, or other garment, covering the arm.

Sleeve buttons—in coat making, usually the same size as the waistcoat b. tho fashion is fickle.

234Sleeve head—tailor’s term for that part of a s. where a join is made with the shoulder; if slightly puft or fulled on it is called full-headed (qv).

Sleeve head seam—juncture of s. and body; the scye.

Sleeve holder—a device for holding up or shortening one’s shirt sleeves to allow of freedom for forearm and protect the s. from undue soiling or injury.

Sleeve lining—(1) a fine quality of silesia with a lustrous face printed in fancy patterns, or with silk stripes, or both; (2) a fine quality of cambric similarly illuminated; (3) a light, thin silk.

Sleeve protector—see Oversleeve.

Sleeve ticket—a paper or paper-faced cotton-back ticket attacht to readymade coat sleeves having lot number, size and price marks printed thereon.

Slender—see Slim.

Slick up—to get drest.

Slicker—a waterproof overcoat; an oilskin.

Slide—see String out.

Sliders—overalls; term obsolete.

Sliding pads—adjustable articles worn by base-stealers as protection when making grand stand plays.

Slim—clothing trade term for readymade garments designed to fit slenderly built persons with waists of less than normal measure. Compare Long-slim.

Slimsy—slightly made; frail in build; flimsy in texture.

Sling—(1) a suspensory band for supporting an injured arm or leg; (2) an elementary article of apparel among savages; (3) a strap by means of which a rifle may be slung on the shoulders.

Sling strap—an attachment to a sword belt to which the scabbard is attacht.

Slinks—in the old Irish glove trade, a name given to skins of unborn calves from parturient cows purposely slaughtered.

Slip—an infant’s dress.

Slip—see String out.

Slip collar—a detachable c.

Slip-on—(1) a loose single-breasted sack overcoat, made without side seams; usually of waterproof material; (2) a raincoat; (3) a waterproof overcoat with skirts ample enough to cover saddle and legs.

Slip-over—a loose overcoat. Same as Slip-on.

Slip sole—a thin piece of sole leather placed between the outer s. and inner s. of a shoe to make the finisht edge of the bottom thicker.

Slip stitch—a s. slipt over the next succeeding s. without catching or knitting. See Drop-s.

235Slipper—a low, light shoe, for indoor wear, into which (or out of which) the foot is easily slipt, fraught with boyish reminiscences.

Slipper—a workman who removes the newly formed hat body from the cone. See Coning, Slipping, etc.

Slipping—in hat making, the act of removing the body of a hat from the cone.

Slipshod—down at the heel.

Slit pocket—any p. without welt or flap. See Welt p., Flapt p., Jetted p., Raincoat p., etc.

Slit welt—the felled or hemmed opening in the palm of a glove.

Sliver—a soft, continuous rope or strand of wool, cotton or silk fibers, as obtained in the carding and combing processes.

Slob—one who is untidy or slovenly in his personal appearance.

Sloonly—badly attired; slovenly drest.

Slop shop—(English) a shop where sailor’s readymade clothes, small wares, etc., are sold.

Slope of shoulder measure—tailor’s term for (1) the upper or strap measurement (qv) as taken by the long m. system and (2) the depth of scye m. as taken by the short m. system. See Over-shoulder m.

Slops—English for readymade clothing of the cheaper grades and workingmen’s jeans; up to and including the year 1903 exports of clothing from the United Kingdom were officially classified as “apparel and slops”. In 16th century, a term applied promiscuously to all garments easily adjusted and imaginably ungainly, neglige or slipshoddy. The word itself is derived from “slip”.

Slouch hat—any soft felt h.; especially a fedora or alpine h.

Slub—see Slubbing.

Slub dyed—trade term for woolen and worsted fabrics woven of yarns dyed while still in the slub state. See Slubbing. Compare Skein d. and Piece d.

Slubbing—a slightly twisted or badly twisted roll of wool; also called slub and slubber.

Slubbing machine—a machine for drawing out and slightly twisting carded wool; now superseded by improved devices attacht to wool-cards.

Slug—an iron for heating hollow hat irons.

Slug lugger—the youngster who carries the hot iron slug used for heating hatter’s irons.

Slugging—a process in shoemaking performed by a s. machine which drives in round the edges of the surface of the finisht heel rows of brass or iron nails called slugs. A wire is put thru the machine and this wire is automatically driven into the leather and cut off, having the effect of leaving in the leather brass or iron nails.

236Slumber robe—undertaker’s euphemism for shroud.

Small—tailor’s term for the hollow of the back at waistline (small-of-the-back).

Small arms—fire arms, carried in the hand, and fired from the hand or shoulder.

Small-falls—see Narrow f. and Front-f.

Smalls—close-fitting knee breeches.

Smart—a dandy of 1760 or thereabout.

Smart set—that element of our social organization that assumes to be better drest, better mannered, better financed and better in various other ways (not including morality) than the rest of us.

Smock—a large apron covering the person, such as is worn by butchers.

Smock frock—a yoked blouse or loose shirt of coarse linen or cotton, worn by field laborers (in Europe) over other clothes.

Smock linen—a coarse, linen material for smocks.

Smoke helmet—a protectiv head covering, similar to a diver’s h., worn by firemen and supplied with air from a comprest air receiver carried on the back.

Smoked pearl—dark, cloudy.

Smoked spectacles—s. with lenses of smoked glass.

Smoking cap—broadly, any c. worn indoors while smoking, more specifically, a fancy velvet, silk or cloth c. similar to a fez (qv).

Smoking jacket—any fancy coat for house (smoking) wear.

Smoothing iron—see Goose.

Smudge—to soil.

Smuggler—a dealer in contraband merchandise; an evader of customs duties; a fraudulent importer.

Smut—a soiled or dirty condition as of soot, coal dust, ink smears, etc.

Smutch—see Smudge.

Snack basket—a lunch b.

Snag—a broken tooth.

Snail back—see Wig.

Snail pearl—trade name for p. buttons, etc., in color, sometimes natural, but more often dyed, and usually dark blue or red.

Snakeskin garters—worn in 18th century “to ward off cramps in the legs”.

Snap brim—a hat b., flat structurally, tighter around the outer circumference so that it may be tilted up or down in front, back or sides; name probably from a snapping sound made in effecting the desired tilt.

Snap button—a self-locking b. for bachelors, widowers and men with negligent wives; especially useful when suspender buttons drop off.

237Snaps—metal ball-and-socket clasps used on plackets, flies, gloves, etc.

Snarled—tangled.

Sneakers—slang for rubber soled shoes; rubber heels; overshoes.

Snide—base, imitation, undesirable, fraudulent.

Snip—an overdrest man; a coxcomb; a finical person.

Snipe collar—tailor’s term for a long and slender coat c.

Snob—an imaginary somebody; read Thackeray for elucidativ treatis.

Snob—a journeyman shoemaker; an old English usage which has well-nigh disappeared in the mother country, and is not much used in America, save in some parts of Massachusetts and Pennsylvania.

Snow—cant term for linen.

Snow goggles—see below.

Snow spectacles—(1) of various forms; commonly a slotted wood, celluloid or metal shield, contrived to permit vision while shutting off glare; (2) more loosely, smoked glass s.

Snow shoe—a sort of mammoth tennis racket affording easy means of suicide.

Snub nose—broad and tip-tilted.

Snuff box—a small b., often ornamental or costly, for snuff, carried in the pocket; in very general use in the days of the dandies—when may it not be revived?

Soap—a detergent—used for personal cleanliness, in the laundry, in wool preparation, mechanically, medicinally, and palaverously.

Soap box—a small b., usually fancy, of celluloid, metal or other material, used principally by travelers for carrying their personal cakes of s.

Soap-chalk—tailor’s marking c., compounded of pigment and soap or wax so as to disappear under a hot iron or by agency of benzine.

Soap shrunk—trade term relating to a process of contracting cloths and fabrics in soap and water, by which the maximum amount of shrinkage is obtained; the best process for heavy cotton goods, as duck, canvas, etc. Compare Steam s., Cold water s., etc.

Soap-stiff—tailor’s term for work, as of hems on the bottoms of trousers, stiffened with soap instead of, as is common (with cheaper work) with rubber tissue.

Soapstone—steatite or talc-rock, used as a marking-chalk on cloth.

Social full dress—(revenue cutter service) worn by commissioned officers on occasions of strictly social nature, conforming in material, cut, etc., to the evening dress of the navy, differing principally in that the coat has 5 buttons on each breast instead of 3.

238Society—broadly, the intercourse of people of self asserted superiority, such as the new rich.

Society man—useless in business; good to sell clothes to.

Sock—(1) a knit or woven foot covering, having a leg shorter than that of a stocking, a term much less euphonious than hose; (2) the light shoe worn by comic actors in the Greek and Roman drama; (3) a warm insole; (4) a sandal or clog formerly worn by the Recollect friars.

Sock lining—a piece of felt, cloth or leather, placed on the inside of a shoe at the heel; used as a finishing method for covering up the ends of nails and tacks used for attaching the heels to the sole.

Sock stick—in a lumber camp, a pronged s. or tree branch on which the workmen hang their clothes near the fire.

Soft finishing—a process in hat manufacture whereby, after blocking and drying, soft hats are adjusted on wooden blocks, pounced and finisht smooth, ironed and trimmed to exact sizes of brim.

Soft front—a trade term for neglige shirts, more specifically those without plaits.

Soft prest—but lightly gone over with the iron; not creased. (Tailoring term.) Compare Hard p. (S. pressed.)

Soft roll—tailoring term, most commonly applied to lapels and coat fronts, meaning not made or prest hard or stiff, but workt to turn or handle freely; or lightly prest for same end.

Soie—French for silk.

Soie ondee—a species of thrown silk. See Throwing.

Soiled—ready to be “marked down”.

Soisette—proprietary name for a mercerized cotton cloth used for pajamas, outing shirts, etc.

Solar tip—proprietary name for a make of children’s shoes having heavy sole leather protectiv t.

Sold out—trade term expressiv of being out of a certain line and unable to make further deliveries.

Sold up—trade term expressiv of being in a condition to accept no more orders for delivery or manufacture.

Soldiers’ uniforms—see the various descriptions of army u. under Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u., Fatigue u., etc.

Sole—the bottom or walked-on part of a shoe or stocking.

Sole scouring—one of the final processes in modern shoemaking, whereby all roughness of a s. is scoured off by holding against a machine having rolls covered with sandpaper. See Sandpapering.

Sole leather—thick, heavy cowhide or other l. used for soles.

Sole plate—same as Heel p.

Solid gold—24 carats pure.

Soliel—textil term for a shining, lustrous, finish on silk and woolen fabrics.

239Solitaire—a ribbon of black silk tied loosely and worn around the neck, sometimes attacht to the bag of the wig and tuckt loosely into the front of the shirt (1760 or thereabout).

Solitaire—a diamond ring marking a great event in a young man’s life, afterward often becoming a commonplace happening in his relations with other men’s wives.

Sombrero—a broad-brimmed hat, usually of felt, common in Mexico and the Southwest; often lavishly ornamented with gold lace, etc.

Sonabitch—a small imperial or goatee (qv).

Sons of wax—humorous term for shoemakers.

Sorting—the first process in woolen manufacture; classifying the fibers of the fleece.

Sorting kersey—one of the old names for kersey (qv).

Sorts—trade term for sizes (qv), used specially when one is buying to fill in the range.

Sour—a chemical step or process in cotton and linen bleaching.

Soupled—in silk throwing, having the external gluey covering removed by heating in an acid bath.

Soutache braid—a narrow, roundish braid of the herringbone variety, of silk, mohair, tinsel, etc.; used decorativly.

South street—a street in Philadelphia well known for its numerous small, cheap clothing shops, tho of rather better flavor than Baxter s., N. Y. (qv); local synonym for cheap clothing.

Southern ties—laced low shoes, slightly higher than Oxfords, similar to the Blucher model, but with the tops beginning farther back toward the sides of the foot.

Sou’wester—a tarpaulin hat with a broad, drooping brim, especially so behind to protect the neck.

Sox—vulgar for half hose (qv).

Spaced front—trade term for folded shirt collars more or less cut away in f., meeting or not meeting at point of fold. Compare Meeting folder. Term also applied to straight standing collars having an opening or space in f.

Spanish cape—a semi-military c.

Spanish linen—a strong, plain woven fabric of l. warp and cotton filling, 27 inches wide. Said to be fast color, non-creasable and washable without mildew; of weight suitable for office coats, shirts, pajamas, etc.; formerly made entirely by hand, but nowadays by machinery.

Sparkler—diamond.

Sparrowtails—see Swallowtail.

Spat puttee—a p. legging covering the instep.

Spats—overgaiters.

Spatterdash—a sort of overgaiter or legging.

Special full dress—(army) see Evening d. uniform.

240Special full dress—(navy) worn on state occasions at home and abroad; when receiving the President, any foreign ruler or member of royal family; at special ceremonies or entertainments; at general muster on first Sunday of every month; receptions to ex-Presidents, to Vice President or Secretary of Navy. Consists of—for all commissioned officers, except chaplains, chief boatswains, chief gunners, chief carpenters and chief sailmakers—special f. d. coat, f. d. trousers, cockt hat; epaulets, sword and f. d. belt, white gloves, medals and badges; for the commissioned officers excepted above, and for warrant officers, mates and clerks, the same as “Undress A”; for midshipmen, the same as “full dress”; (marine corps) worn on the same or similar occasions. Consists of—for major general commandment: f. d. coat, special f. d. or white trousers, chapeau, f. d. cap or white helmet, sash, sword, f. d. sword, belt and knot, epaulets, white standing collar, black shoes, white gloves (or, when mounted, dark blue riding breeches, drab leather gloves, black boots with spurs); for all officers of the line: a similar uniform except that chapeau and sash belong to the higher rank, and that f. d. trousers are worn; for staff officers: a uniform similar to that of the major general commandant excepting there is no sash and that shoulder knots and aigulets are worn instead of epaulets; for leaders and all members of the band (to be worn on occasions of indoor functions at which the band has to play, or other special occasions when ordered): special f. d. coat, special f. d. trousers, special f. d. cap, sword with f. d. sword knot and belt (leader only), shoulder knots (leader only), white gloves and black leather shoes.

Special full dress cap—(marine corps) for leader of the band, of blue cloth, same pattern and style as f. d. cap of officers of the line. For second leader and musicians, of scarlet cloth, same model as f. d. cap of other enlisted men.

Special full dress coat—(navy) for officers: a full-buttoned, double-breasted c. of dark blue cloth, lined with white silk serge, waist descending to top of the hip bone, the skirts commencing at about one-fourth of the circumference from the middle of the front edge and descending four-fifths of the distance from the hip bone to the knee with two large navy buttons on the waist behind and one near the bottom of each fold or plait; two rows of large navy buttons on the breast, 9 each; standing collar with V opening; the collar and cuffs covered with gold lace, braid, bands of colored cloth, etc., as prescribed in regulations according to rank of officer, and with appropriate epaulets, etc.; (marine corps) for leader of the band, a sack c. of scarlet cloth made after the same pattern as prescribed for first lieutenant marine corps, except no opening for sword; the front edges, around bottom, vents and sleeves trimmed with 1¼ in. flat gold braid, backed with ⅛ in. gold tracing braid; collar similarly trimmed; gold 241tubular braiding across breast in the same manner as prescribed for first lieutenant, with gold crochet buttons and olives; seams between side body and backpart trimmed with 2 rows of gold tubular braid; other details as prescribed. For second leader of band, the same, except that the cuffs are trimmed with black mohair braid. For musicians of band, a fly-front sack c. of scarlet cloth, cut half close, standing collar of black broadcloth piped with white, pointed cuffs ditto, shoulder straps ditto; edges, bottom and vents trimmed with 1 in. black mohair braid backt with ⅛ in. black mohair tracing braid, side body seams trimmed with black mohair tubular braid; fronts trimmed with black mohair tubular braid, 5 across, terminating in frogs, olives, etc.; otherwise as prescribed.

Special full dress trousers—(marine corps) for major general commandant, of dark blue cloth, cut with medium spring, side pockets, outseams trimmed with 1¼ in. gold lace with a 3–16 in. scarlet silk stripe thru center; for staff officers, the same without scarlet stripe; for line officers, of sky-blue cloth, outseams trimmed with 1½ in. gold lace with edges of scarlet cloth welted ¼ in.; for leader of band, of dark blue cloth, the same as prescribed for staff officers, outseams trimmed with 1¼ in. flat gold braid. For second leader and musicians, the same except a 1 in. stripe of scarlet cloth down outer seams.

Special patrolman’s uniform—(New York) a double-breasted sack coat of gray cloth reaching halfway to knee, buttoning close to throat with 5 buttons, no outside pockets. Trousers to match with a red welt on outer seam. Overcoat, of same color, double-breasted sack style, reaching 3 inches below knee, closing with 6 buttons (2 rows), with rolling collar. Cap, navy pattern of same color. In summer, uniform may be of gray flannel.

Special sale—an advertising makeshift when goods move slowly or times are dull.

Special uniforms—thruout the military and naval services of the United States, whenever on occasions of ceremony officers of these services are required to appear together in uniform, as prescribed under designations Uniform A, Uniform B, and Uniform C, which see.

Specialty mark—(navy) an embroidered device forming a part of the rating badge (qv), indicating occupation of the wearer, as master at arms, boatswains mates, blacksmiths, yeomen, printers, etc.

Specie bag—a medium-sized strong leather hand b., carried by bank messengers.

Spectacle case—a c. for holding and protecting spectacles when not in use. See Eyeglass holder.

Spectacles—a device for aiding eyesight—a pair of lenses attacht to a metal bridge and hinged bows, the latter usually curved to 242hook around the ears, tho formerly made to clasp the temples; the lenses sometimes enclosed in a frame or rim.

Spence cotton—a variety of c. grown in India, having a strong, wiry staple of 1 to 1¼ inches in length, the “trees” producing it frequently attaining a hight of 6 to 7 feet.

Spencer—a short, scant, top coat not covering the undercoat, invented by Lord Spencer, about 1792, on a bet that he could set a fashion, wholly meaningless and unnecessary, that would be the vogue within six months. He then took shears and amputated the tails of the coat he was wearing and appeared in it on the street. Being a leader of fashion, the idiosyncrasy spread within a week and in a few months reached America.

Spent tan—roughly ground tanbark from which the tannic acid has been extracted by infusion.

Spick-and-span—new, fresh, clean, tidy; showing off one’s glad rags.

Spiff—clerk’s slang for premium or bonus.

Spinage—long whiskers.

Spindle—(1) a slender rod in a spinning wheel carrying thread which is to be twisted and wound on bobbins; (2) a rod used in hand spinning on which is wound the thread from the distaff.

Spinning—the process of drawing out and spinning textil fibers into thread, either by hand or machinery; a process in woolen manufacture by which the drawn fleece or yarn is twisted into yarns or threads of required thickness, technically known as “counts”, according to the fabrics for which intended. As spun, the yarn is wound onto large bobbins for warp or on to smaller spools for weft. Practically the same for other fibers. See Encyclopedia.

Spinning jenny—see Jenny.

Spinning mule—see Mule.

Spitalfields—a district of London, England, noted specially for its silk weaving industries; the name is also applied to silk goods therefrom, as a mark of quality.

Spladder dashers—one of the old forms of “spatterdash” (qv).

Splay-footed—toes turning outwardly.

Spliced—generally, a makeshift extension. See Crotch piece, Wheel piece, etc.

Spliced heel—trade term for hosiery with the heel made much heavier than the body of the stocking, usually spoken as s. heels-and-toes. See Double sole.

Split falls—same as Narrow f.

Split foot—trade term for stockings whereof the underfoot part is knitted separately from the upper or leg part, altho these may be seamlessly joined with practically the same motion or reciprocal interchange of loops, or otherwise. See English f.

243Split patterns (to)—tailoring term for the operation of first drafting a pattern according to the subject’s actual measurements, then splitting it open from top to bottom, and inserting an allowance for a superfluous amount of goods for ease and style, a new pattern being usually drafted from the split one.

Split straw—(1) hat s. split into narrow strips; (2) hats of such straw (usually “yacht” shapes).

Split tree—a shoe t. divided longitudinally and expanding when placed in position.

Splits—weaving term for cloths woven with a center selvaged motion, so that when the piece is taken from the loom the wide fabric can be split into two or more practically perfect cloths; in weaving designated one s., two s., etc.

Sponge—general term for (1) the process of extra-shrinking fabrics preparatory to manufacturing into garments; see Shrink; (2) the act of lightly cleaning a slightly soiled garment with a damp sponge before pressing it.

Sponge—a fibrous and porous substance from the sea-depths, the framework of a marine animal.

Sponge bag—a light rubber or waterproof fabric b. for use of travelers, designed to hold bathing sponges.

Sponge silk—a soft, porous, knitted fabric of low grade spun silk, used for underwear, draperies, polishing cloths, etc.

Sponging—see Sponge.

Spongy—trade term for cloths, such as raincoatings, which have lost their firmness and finish and have become open, soft or porous; also applied to cloths imperfectly fulled or finisht.

Sporran—a leather or fur purse or pouch worn in front of the kilt by Highlanders in clan dress.

Sporting tailor—one who makes a specialty of, and whose business consists largely if not entirely of the making of hunting, golf, polo, motoring garments and clothes for “sporting” wear generally.

Sportsman’s knife—a pocket k. having numerous conveniences in the way of blades, etc., especially a k. with an extra long blade for skinning hides, etc.

Spot delivery—immediately.

Spread front folder—a folded shirt collar, the ends of which are broadly rounded or cut away.

Spring—a belled or flaring effect.

Spring bottom trousers—same as ordinary t. except that the bottoms flare out over the foot.

Spring buckle—a buckling device consisting of two pronged buckles connected by coiled wire springs, used on some trousers, overalls, suspenders, etc.

Spring button—a “snap” or “clasp” fastening.

244Spring heels—term for shoes made without h. and worn by boys and children, the outer sole being sprung outward slightly at the heel and a small wedge of leather inserted between the outer sole and the innersole at the heel of the shoe before it is finally attacht by nailing.

Spring mink—m. caught in the spring, when the fur begins to change—naturally of quality inferior to winter-caught m.

Spring needle—term given to underwear knitted on round frames by means of a peculiar kind of n. so that the fabric is particularly elastic or springy.

Spring tree—see Extension t.

Spring weight—in the cloth trade suitings of 11 to 15 ounces and overcoatings of 16 to 22 ounces are so called. Compare Winter w., Summer w., Fall w., Tropical w.

Sprinting pants—see Athletic p.

Sprinting shoes—see Running s.

Spruce—kind o’ nice; dapper.

Spun silk—trade term for (1) floss, damaged cocoons, husks, waste, etc.; (2) s. yarns, fabrics, etc., from waste s. and damaged cocoons.

Spun silver—s. thread for weaving, especially a fiber thread covered with a s. filament.

Spunk seed—see Wig.

Spur—a heel-thing worn by men-brutes to jab into horses.

Spy glass—a small telescope for ship or field use.

Squam hat—a round h. of oiled waterproof material, made with a stiff crown and stiff rim, with ear tabs buttoning under the chin, worn by fishermen, seamen, etc. Compare Cape Ann h.

Square—see Tailor’s s.

Square shouldered—shoulders high and set well back.

Square-toe—a shoe made somewhat square at the t. as compared with a round or oval shape.

Square-toes—an old-fashioned, punctilious person.

Squaring—in hat making, the act of coating or saturating the inside of the crown with a solution of shellac for the purpose of hardening.

Squash hat—a low crowned soft felt h.

Squirrel—a small tree-living animal, the fur of which is highly prized for winter garments.

Squirt—dude.

Stable cap—a round c. with a visor, usually of material to match the groom’s suit, as whipcord, corduroy.

Stable suit—groom’s sack s. of whipcord. See Livery undress.

Stall—see Finger cot.

Stamin—a variety of linsey woolsey (obsolete).

Stampt gloves—die cut. Compare Table cut. (Stamped-g.)

245Stand-and-fall collar—same as standing Prussian c.

Stand-up—same thing.

Stander—colloquial for a standing (shirt) collar.

Standing band—a sort of linen collar or neckdressing; obsolete. See Falling b.

Standing Prussian collar—a P. c. made on a high band and turned over; also called Russian c.

Stanley helmet—a light h. of pith, covered with pongee silk, having a sweat band set out from the body of the hat by rigid arms, thus allowing a circulation of air.

Staple—the fiber of any material, as long or shortstaple wool, cotton, etc.

Staples—merchandise that is always salable, thruout the year, not materially affected by vagaries of fashion, as plain black and blue cloths and garments thereof, handkerchiefs, white dress shirts, black hosiery, etc. Staples are seldom reduced or included in special sales. Compare Fancies and Novelties.

Start-up—a coarse, heavy sort of buskin, worn up to almost 1800.

Station coat—a slip-on overcoat for riding, driving or motor wear, made single-breasted, buttoning close to the neck, with a sort of Prussian collar, lined thruout as usual except the skirt, which is unlined.

Stay tape—narrow, white linen or cotton t. used by tailors for reinforcing edges, seams, etc.

Stays—straps attacht to the bottoms of pantaloons, passing under the foot.

Stays—corsets.

Steam—to sponge or shrink (qv); to remove bloom or gloss.

Steam shrunk—sponged or shrunk by being past thru perforated steam cylinders; the opposit of cold water or London s. (qv).

Steamer rug—see Rug.

Steamer trunk—a low, flat t. that can be slipt under a stateroom berth.

Steinkirk—a cravat (1674–1742) loosely folded, tied or twisted, with ends caught in a buttonhole of the coat.

Stem-winder—a keyless watch.

Step—tailor’s term for the lower edge of the notch in lapel of coat or waistcoat collar.

Step-back—tailoring term for frock coats made without plaits in the back skirts, the back parts of the coats being continuous as usual, but that on the left side being extended or stept-out 1½ to 2 inches at the waist line (showing an L angle), and lapt over the other skirt, both sides of the skirts being creast as usual down from where the sidebody is joined to the back part. In some overcoats the step is often 3 inches or more wide.

246Stephanotis—a perfume derived from or imitating the odor of a plant of the jasmin family.

Sterling—trade designation of silver of 925–1000 fineness.

Sticharion—a vestment worn by sub-deacons in the Greek and Russian churches; a sort of dalmatic (qv) but narrower and shorter than the similar garment worn by deacons.

Stick-pin—same as Scarf p.

Stick-up collar—British for a standing shirt c.

Stick-up-turned down—British for the highband, folded or double shirt collar.

Sticking plaster—a surgical adhesiv p. composed of resin and litharge in the proportion of 1 to 5, coated on cotton; familiar to foot-ballists and other sports.

Stiff front—trade term for coats made with considerable heavy haircloth workt stiffly into the front parts.

Stiffening—a process in hat manufacture whereby the cones after sizing are given a firmness by means of a solution of shellac in alcohol.

Stiletto beard—a long, sharp imperial (qv).

Stint rule—see Task system.

Stirrup hose—woolen or cloth over-hose for riding wear (17th and 18th centuries) made as much as two yards wide at the top and edged with eyelet holes by means of which they were fastened to the breeches or girdle.

Stitches—as used in garment making, may be classified as back s., back-and-fore s., bar-tack s., basting s., button s., buttonhole s., chain s., cross s., crow’s-foot s., drawing s., felling s., fine drawing s., French felling s., padding s., prick s., private s., rentering s., running s., serging s., side s., stoating s., etc., which see.

Stoat—see Stoating.

Stoating—in tailoring the process of joining two pieces of material together either at a point where a seam is not desired, or instead of a seam, where thinness is the object. The material is placed edge to edge and the stitch nearly penetrates thru to the underside, the needle entering one piece and leaving the other at equal distances from the join, say ¹⁄₁₆ of an inch on either side and about the same distance apart, the thread being stretcht taut. When carefully done the join is barely visible.

Stock—originally a made-up, stiffly folded cravat of linen or silk, wrapt twice around the neck, the neck part usually with a metal spring attacht to keep it in place when worn.

Stock—the merchandise in store for sale.

Stock boy—in wholesale houses a young devil who bothers the traveling salesmen to take him “on the road” as assistant, and sometimes becomes a traveler and is particularly bedeviled in turn; or, in retail and other houses one with similar duties and proclivities.

247Stock covers—lengths of hickory shirting or other stuff that ought to be thrown over the stock at night.

Stock number—see Lot n.

Stock-room—a loft where reserve stocks of merchandise are housed.

Stock whip—a herder’s whip having a short handle with a very long lash with snapper.

Stockinet—(1) an elastic textil made on a knitting frame, usually cotton, and having a fleeced back which may be of wool, used for undergarments, etc.; (2) a heavy elastic, close-woven material, usually white, from which livery breeches are made.

Stocking—a covering for the foot and lower part of the leg, close-fitting, elastic and usually knitted of wool, cotton or silk, especially such as reach to the knee in contradistinction to sock or half hose.

Stocking frame—(1) a machine for knitting stockings; (2) any knitting machine.

Stocking saver—a soft leather heel cover with instep strap, for wear inside of shoes.

Stocking yarn—loosely spun, coarse, woolen y. for heavy socks, hoods, mittens, etc., designed for hand knitting.

Stockinger—a knitter or weaver of stockings; a hosier (obsolete.)

Stockingless—having or wearing no stockings. You’ve heard of Hon. “Sockless” Jerry Simpson?

Stogy—(n) a coarse, stout boot or shoe. (Colloquial.)

Stogy—(adj) heavy; coarse; clumsy.

Stole—an ecclesiastical vestment; a long, narrow strip of the same material as the chasuble, with one to three crosses embroidered upon it with other elaborate decoration; worn as a symbol of priestly jurisdiction, in the administration of all the sacraments, at mass, etc. At mass the priest wears it crost over his left breast, the deacon over his left shoulder; at other times hanging straight down.

Stone marten—the beach m.; fur largely used for winter garments.

Stonine—a white, marble-like composition used for shirt studs, cuff buttons, etc., for evening dress wear.

Stoop shouldered—having roundish shoulders with a forward inclination.

Store—a place where you buy things.

Store clothes—readymade; not homemade.

Storm boot—an extra high-cut lace shoe, usually blucher model, and of stout leather, commonly waterprooft.

Storm coat—a rainproof c.; a mackintosh; an ulster.

248Storm collar—in tailoring (1) a separate, large, standing c. or muffler, usually of fur, for rough outdoor wear, used over overcoats; (2) a deep ulster c.

Storm hat—a sou’wester.

Storm hood—a sort of sou’wester with a cape all around.

Storm-proof—said of viscolized or oil-drest tramping boots or shoes; of rainproof overcoatings, etc.

Storm serge—differing from other serges chiefly in being heavier and in having the bloom or high finish removed by steaming.

Storm tabs—straps or short belts attacht to overcoat or ulster sleeves at the wrist for purpose of closing the opening against the weather.

Stormer—an ulster (qv).

Stote—see Stoat.

Stouts—clothing trade term for readymade garments designed to fit corpulent persons or those with waist more than normal or the same as the breast measure. Compare Short s., Long s. and Extra s.

Stove-pipe—a silk hat.

Straight—one of the old names for kersey (qv).

Straight box—trade term for coats cut with straight side seams and full backs without center seams.

Straight collar—trade term for coat collars made with a straight under-line and without excessive paring of the neck of the garment as in the case of horseshoe c. (qv). This style c. is best made by hand and is a characteristic of fine tailoring, distinguisht for fitting the neck closely and neatly.

Straight front sack—a s. coat not rounded or cut away at the bottom corners, but hanging straight down.

Straight front single-breasted frock—same as s. b. frock, and s. b. “Prince Albert.”

Straight jacket—a garment unfortunately little used outside of insane asylums.

Straight lace—trade term for regular style laced shoes or Balmorals, distinguishing them from the flapt or Blucher style laced shoe.

Straight stander—a plain, standing shirt collar.

Straightening—in clothes manufacture the operation of trimming the edges of coats after being underprest.

Strand—a fiber, warp or weft yarn, string, etc.

Strap—tailoring term for (1) that part of a coat embraced in strap measurement (qv); (2) in an evening dress coat an L shaped extension of the skirt to the point of the front of forepart, forming a waistline seam therewith.

Strap ends—that part where boot (or shoe) straps are sewed into the boot (or shoe).

249Strap measure—tailors’ term for the measurement taken from bottom of arm scye, over the front of shoulder, to seam on top where the back part is joined.

Strap seam—in tailoring the two parts are first joined by a plain or regular s. and prest open as usual, after which a strip of material is basted over the face of the s. and then stitcht.

Strapt trousers—having straps and buckles affixt to bottoms, passing beneath arch of shoe. (Strapped.)

Straw—cattle feed used in making summer hats.

Straw cotton—c. thread especially prepared for sewing straw, as in hat making.

Straw hat—worn only from June 1st to September 1st. Specially designated as alpine, boater, mackinaw, milan, panama, sennit, yacht, etc., which see.

Straw needle—a long, slender n. used in straw hat making.

Strawberry blonde—red haired.

Street covert—a top coat.

Street gloves—g. of heavy leather. Compare Dress g.

Street railway conductor’s uniform—varies with different roads and in different cities; most commonly a sack suit of dark blue cloth, the coat double-breasted in winter and single-breasted in summer, with an extra number of pockets very strongly made and re-enforced with cloth around the openings, which are slasht or without flaps, brass buttons; blue cloth cap with numbered badge.

Strength test—(silk thread) pure dye silk thread running 800 hundred yards to the ounce should be about 8 pounds strength; 1000 yards to ounce breaking at 6 to 6½ pounds, etc.

Strength tester—any machine or device for testing the strength of fibers, yarns, fabrics, etc.

Stretch—tailoring term signifying joining a smaller to a larger part; stretching an edge to more than its cut dimension, etc., for purposes of shapeliness, style, etc. Compare Hold in.

Stretch block—a wooden or metal device, a sort of last operated by a screw, used by hatters to stretch hats to larger sizes.

Stretcher—same as Litter (qv).

Stretching—a process in hat manufacture, following stiffening (qv) and preceding blocking (qv).

Stride—the fork or crotch seam of trousers.

Striking bag—same as punching b.

Striking bag gloves—see Punching b. g.

String out—said of silk fabrics the warp and weft of which, in wear, slip or slide aside or pull, leaving unsightly spots.

Stripes—see Trousers s.

Stripes—cant for prison clothes (qv).

250Stripy—trade term for harsh, inelastic, non-curly wool fleece, used only for inferior goods.

Stroke coat—same as golf coat, tho a more appropriate name.

Strop—see Razor s.

Stubbed—shortened, abbreviated. (Tailoring.)

Stubbed back—tailoring term for a frock coat having a back which is cut across at the waist line and having the plaited part of the skirt (which may be closed or open-lapt) sewed thereto. Compare Frock b., Whole b., Step b., False b., Skirt, etc.

Stubble—sign that a shave is needed.

Stud holes—small round eyelets workt into a shirt bosom.

Student cap—same as mortarboard or Oxford c. (qv).

Studs—shirt bosom jewelry.

Stuft leather—leather filled with oil or other greasy liquid for a specific purpose, as waterproofing.

Stump—a pointed roll of paper, felt or chamois used by artists in blending drawings and by actors in blending the grease paints used in making up.

Stumpt—said of frock coat back parts that are not continuous but are cut across at the waist line and then continued therefrom in the skirts. (Stumped.)

Style—a will o’ the wisp that men chase quite as assiduously as women; the touch of la mode that wanes ere it is recognized; a something as insubstantial as the favor of rulers, as light as the air, as protean as a hurricane, and fickle as a woman who knows her beauty and how to use it; a leading pursuit of the frivolous and wealthy and a Godsend to merchants and manufacturers.

Style-book—a pictorial eulogy of the sartorial abilities of the publishers, which, if deficient, can be glost over by a clever writer and a cleverer artist.

Styler—one who designs or advises as to styles, patterns, etc., for manufacturers of articles of apparel.

Stylish—in the current mode; not last season’s; popular; a common adjectiv in Grand street.

Stylist—see Styler.

Styptic pencil—an antiseptic healer of cuts, popular with self-shavers. Also called S. stick.

Sub—affectionate for substitute, an extra or temporary clerk.

Subbing—helping out or taking another clerk’s place temporarily; doing other than one’s regular work.

Subfusk—dusky or dull of hue; of a dark but indefinable color.

Substitute—see Sub.

Substitute—something otherwise than as ordered.

Substitution—an ineradicable evil.

251Suede—glove leather from which the face cuticle has been removed by shaving and pumicing, the flesh or inner side of the skin forming the outside of a glove and having a soft, velvety or ooze finish; “undrest kid”.

Sugar loaf—a high, silk hat, narrowing toward the top.

Suint—see Yolk.

Suit—(1) coat, waistcoat and trousers; (2) undershirt and drawers; (3) pajama blouse and trousers; (4) bathing trunks and shirt, etc.

Suit bag—a style of hand luggage of great capacity, shaped somewhat like a s. case, but opening from a common center-hinge into two equal parts.

Suit case—a long, flat, rectangular traveling bag or portmanteau, usually of leather, of such size that coats, trousers, etc., may be carried therein with the least amount of folding.

Suit case umbrella—an u. with a folding rod or a detachable handle, effecting a reduction in length, enabling the u. to be carried inside the case.

Suit club—an association of deluded persons who agree to pay into a common fund (usually held by the organizer of the club, who conducts all its affairs, more or less to his own or only benefit), a fixt sum per week. A drawing by lot determins who shall get his suit that week, after which, ordinarily, he pays no further dues; and so on until the last man gets his suit, of course by paying more than anyone else, altho he may believe that he is paying no more than the clothes are worth, by reason of specious arguments about quantity-buying advanced by the plausible organizer of the club, the inducement to all the members being the element of chance, or rather prospect of being among the earliest and least taxt buyers. Of course, there are occasionally formed clubs where all members pay the same amount from first to last, there being no pecuniary inducement beyond the easy payment plan and the possibility of being an early winner. The first form of s. c. has repeatedly been declared illegal by the courts but is hard to suppress, despite the exemplary punishment meted out to the offenders.

Suit-coat—tailor’s term for distinguishing a garment so markt as part of a suit order, and not a complete order in itself.

Suit of hair—a head of hair. (Southern colloquialism.)

Suit-pants—see S.-coat.

Suit-vest—see S.-coat.

Sulfuric acid test—(cotton vs. linen). After having been freed from the finishing materials the sample of cloth is treated for one or two minutes in concentrated English sulfuric-acid, then rinsed well in water, and dried between blotting-papers. Cotton is completely dissolved in this treatment; linen remains unaffected. This test is suitable for colored goods, and by weighing the 252samples before and after treatment the quantity of each material can be approximated.

Sumac—any shrub or tree of the genus rhus; the bark thereof used in tanning.

Summer garters—g. specially for wear with knee drawers, having no metal parts to come in corrosiv contact with moist flesh.

Summer undress—(marine corps, etc.), see Undress, White dress, Field dress, et var.

Summer weight—in the cloth trade suitings of 11 to 14 ounces are so known. Compare Winter w., Spring w., Fall w., Tropical w.

Sun test—see Exposure t.

Sun umbrella—an u. usually of cotton material, of tan or buff color outside and with a green or blue inside, the lining color being printed.

Sunday-go-to-meeting-clothes—the best one has.

Sunshade—a sun umbrella (qv).

Sunshade hat—a collapsible h. of light-weight cotton material having a very long and wide brim stretcht on wire; used by amateur fishermen.

Super—see Wool.

Superfine—the finest grade of dress broadcloths.

Superlative measures—a system of tailors’ measurements embracing features of both long and short measure systems, with which, for comparison, the former may be considered the allopathic, the latter homeopathic, and the superlative eclectic schools of clothes-prescribing.

Supporter—(1) a contrivance for holding up some portion of one’s apparel, as garters, braces, etc.; (2) a surgical or hygienic appliance for holding in place or assisting localized physical weaknesses, as a laced waistband with an underpart reaching thru the crotch from front to back to support the parts.

Suppression—tailoring term indicating close-shaping of the waist, as of a coat.

Surah—a soft, fine twilled, silk fabric, usually plain dyed.

Surcharged—weighted; loaded in dyeing and finishing.

Surcoat—(1) a long c. or cassock worn over a vest or undercoat; (2) a loose robe worn over armor, in the middle ages.

Surgeon’s gown—a long, plain g., completely enveloping the figure, closing at the throat, with draw strings or elastics in the cuffs, with or without hood; usually of white cotton material.

Surgeon’s plaster—see Sticking p.

Surplice—a garment of linen worn by all clerics and assistants in choir and by priests in the administration of the sacraments. Also called cotta.

253Surtout—an overcoat made in the style of a frock coat; a Newmarket (qv).

Surveyor’s boot—see Prospector’s b.

Suspender button—one of the petty annoyances of men living in single unblessedness.

Suspenders—devices for keeping one’s trousers neatly and modestly in place.

Suspensory—an arrangement of straps and bag to sustain the scrotum.

Swaddling clothes—known since Moses’ time, at least.

Swallowtail—see Evening dress.

Swanga-buckra—a negro epithet for a well-drest white man.

Swap—when a prospectiv customer does not purchase he is said to have given the salesman a “swap”; derivation of term unknown.

Swathling clothes—see Swaddling c.

Swayback—meaning that a man’s attitude tries to imitate Hogarth’s line of beauty.

Sweat lining—in hats and caps usually a lining band of soft leather, occasionally patent leather, or other material.

Sweat shop—in garment making a shop not owned by the manufacturer but by a contractor, who pays low wages; a home shop where various members of the family are employed; popularly a shop where disease and contagion are supposed to be imminent if not actually existent, and where the operators are virtual slaves for the sake of a pittance to buy bread.

Sweatband—see s. lining.

Sweater—a tight-fitting, ribbed, knitted jacket or shirt, of various styles, as turtle neck s., coat s., V neck s., etc.

Sweating—a putrefactiv process in leather preparation for the purpose of loosening hairs.

Sweating system—see Sweat shop.

Swedish gloves—see Suede.

Sweet bags—ornamental bags or pouches of perfume or aromatic substances variously used by the beaux and belles of the romantic past.

Swell—a supposedly ultra-fashionable individual.

Swelled seam—(tailoring) the parts to be joined are basted face to face along an outlet; this is sewed with a regular or plain s. (qv) at the usual distance from the edge of the top piece, which is then turned and stitcht again at the required distance from the first s. underneath and then very lightly prest, giving the raised or swelled effect, which is helpt by absence of any stitching holding the cloth down at the turn of the s. Also called “raised s.” and “lap s.”; often mistakenly called “welt s.” (qv).

Swimming suits—same as bathing s.

254Switch—a riding whip.

Swivel weaving—in weaving, a process of achieving embroidered-like effects on cloth, being effected by small auxiliary shuttles of colored threads.

Swop—an unconsummated sale (retail slang).

Sword belt—a leather or canvas b. worn around the waist, supporting a sword by straps.

Sword cane—a hollow walking stick with detachable handle, to which is affixt a s. or dagger.

Sword knot—(navy) for officers, a strip of gold lace 24 inches long, doubled, with a gold slide and surmounted at the end with a large gold bullion tassel.

Symmetricals—bits of padding used by stage Venuses and Adonises.

System—a method of tailoring instruction for cutters, or learners; a crank method for achieving misfits.

Syndicate shop—name given to any one of a chain of stores controlled from an executiv center.

$—the idol of trade.

T

Tab—to keep tally or count.

Tab collar—(1) a linen wing or piccadilly shirt c.; (2) any standing shirt c. with sewed-on tabs thru which the scarf or tie is slipt and held in place.

Tabard—a sleeveless or short-sleeved outergarment worn by knights over their armor, commonly embroidered with the arms of the wearer; the official costume of a herald or pursuivant.

Table—the upper part or flat face of a brilliant cut diamond or other precious stone.

Table cut—trade term for gloves cut by hand, not stampt out from a pattern or die, ensuring a better fitting glove.

Tabs—small flaps on shirt collars for holding scarf in place.

Tack—(1) the narrowest part of the back of a frock coat; (2) that part where the skirts are joined; (3) the top of a vent.

Tack stay—in tailoring a slip of interlining material used in pocket seams, etc., at the place where a tack (qv) is made, and for its support or strength.

Tacking—in shoemaking the process of placing the vamp or upper on the last and pulling it over and tacking it onto the 255leather innersole on the bottom of the last; also called “pulling over”.

Taffeta—a light-weight, thin, plain-woven, glossy silk fabric, finisht in a variety of ways: as plain dyed, changeable, warp-printed, brocaded, etc.

Taffeta flannel—a plain woven, light-weight wool material, with stripes, plaids and checks, effected by colored threads in warp and filling, coat fronts and said to be nearly unshrinkable; used chiefly for outing shirts, pajamas, etc.

Taffeta weave—see Plain w.

Taffy—a name once given to a watered variety of taffeta silk.

Taffy—blarney; soft palaver.

Tag lock—a tangled l., as of wool on unshorn sheep.

Taglioni—a style of overcoat fashionable in the 50’s.

Tahiti pearl—trade name for a very dark, nearly black, p. shell (and articles thereof) from Tahiti.

Tail—a coarser grade of wool than “breach”; also called cow-tail.

Tail-coat—familiar term for any skirted c., but especially for evening dress and cutaway frock coats.

Tailor—generally, any one in the business of making clothes; specifically, (1) a shopkeeper who makes clothes to order and to measure; (2) any workmen employed in the making of clothes, whether journeyman t., presser, operator, bushelman, etc.

Tailor-to-the-trade—a clothing manufacturer who makes clothes to order for agents or other tailors; largely a mail order business; often a concern doing business under two to four or more names, so that customers lost by one may be sold again (note double entendre) under another name; in such cases usually located on a corner of two streets and, if possible, in a named building, that several different real addresses may be used.

Tailor’s block—a sort of stool on which the customer being measured poses for the admiration of other waiting customers.

Tailor’s braid—any b. of silk or mohair, with a flat or corded edge, used for binding or facing garments, etc.

Tailor’s cramp—a cramp in the muscles of the thumb and fingers, common among tailors and other needle workers.

Tailor’s goose—a smoothing iron. See Goose.

Tailor’s muscle—the sartorius, a long, narrow muscle of the thigh, that aids in flexing the knee, the longest muscle in the body; so called from its use in crossing the legs, as with tailors.

Tailor’s silk thread sizes—see Appendix.

Tailor’s spasm—a nervous affection of the hand common to needleworkers.

Tailor’s square—an L shaped measuring and drafting implement, markt in inches and in fractional computations.

256Tailor’s tack—a strong, ornamental finish at the ends of pockets, vents, etc. See Crow’s-foot and Bar tack.

Tailor’s trimmings—trade term for linings, buttons, braids, thread and all other “notions” required by tailors.

Tailor’s twist—the strong silk thread used in garment making.

Tailorage—the product or effect of the tailor’s art: as “a great parade of tailorage.”

Tailoring indicator—a machine for ascertaining with exactness all manner of measurements, proportions, disproportions, hight, weight, position, etc., of the customer.

Tailorize—to clothe or fit as a tailor does.

Tailoroid—a gummy preparation in stick form intended for use on edges that are to be felled for the purpose of preventing fraying and blistering and to ensure smoothness, firmness and flexibility of trousers and coat bottom hems, coat collars, etc. (Proprietary.)

Taleth—a praying shawl of white stuff, bordered with blue, worn by Jews at their devotions.

Take-in—to make narrower, shorter, snugger. (Tailoring, etc.)

Talisman—see Amulet.

Tall hat—slang for silk h.

Talma—a long cape or cloak, sometimes hooded, worn in first half of 19th century; named after Francois Joseph Talma, a French tragedian.

Tam o’ Shanter—a broad, flat, knit woolen cap with a tassel in the center (Scotch).

Tampico—Istle (qv).

Tan—to convert hides and skins into leather by chemical treatment.

Tan bark—any bark, as sumac, oak, hemlock, chestnut, etc., containing tannic acid in sufficient quantity to be useful in tanning leather.

Tan liquor—(1) an infusion of tan bark in water; (2) any astringent liquor used in making leather.

Tan pickle—same as T. liquor.

Tan yard—a tannery (qv).

Tannery—a place where hides and skins are tanned and made into leather.

Tap sole—a half s. shaped like a slip s., but nailed or attacht to the outside of a boot or shoe and reaching only to the arch, coming next to the ground; not a whole s. See Slip s. Also called Napoleon s.

Tapaderos—among Mexicans a leather covering for the protection of the feet.

Tape line—an inch measure. See next.

257Tape measure—an article, usually of fabric, printed in inches and fractions thereof, commonly 60 inches long and half an inch wide, used by tailors, clothiers, et al., in taking measurements.

Taped seam—in tailoring a strong s. used in making garments from insubstantial or easily frayed fabrics, specifically a strip of tape laid under a s. and stitcht to same on both sides. Compare Silesia s.

Tar—a boy’s sailor cap.

Tarboosh—a red cap with tassel of dark colored silk, and sometimes forming the inner part of the turban, worn by men in Moslem countries.

Tarlatan—of interest to men chiefly when worn by coryphees of the ballet, or when employed to keep off mosquitoes at night.

Tartan—a Scotch plaid.

Task system—a peculiar Jewish s. of garment making. A “task” is so many garments to a day’s work for a “team” or “set”, usually 3 to 5 people. This quota must be finisht and wages are reckoned upon it. If but five tasks, for example, are finisht in six days, the team workers get but five days’ pay; per contra, if they can do seven tasks in six days, they get seven days’ pay. The task s. is really piece work and is perhaps the most ingenious and effectiv engine or over-exertion known to modern industry.

Tattersall—general trade name for loud or horsey patterns in heavy woolen vestings; the name from the famous London horse market.

Tatterdemalion—a raggedy one.

Tattoo—to decorate the human epidermis with designs pricked in with indelible dyes.

Tawing—a process in leather dressing in which the gelatin of the fibers is combined with certain mineral salts.

Tea basket—a sort of folding hamper with fittings for coaching party lunches, etc.

Team process—see T. work.

Team work—tailoring term, meaning practically the same as “Section w.” (qv), but given to a lesser number or smaller team of operators to make and finish and consequently costing a trifle more to execute. Employed most generally in cheap tailoring, medium grade readymade, etc.

Tear drops—small pear-shaped side whiskers.

Teasel—a machine or contrivance for dressing cloth.

Teasel cloth—see Flannelet.

Teaser—a machine having rollers of various sizes studded with pins which open the wool and intermix or blend it before carding or combing and spinning.

Teck—a readymade imitation of the knot tied with a four-in-hand scarf.

258Teddy bear—another fad in children’s clothing of a par in sanity with Fauntleroy, Buster Brown, Brownie, Greenaway, and other eruptions.

Teething ring—a large r. of rubber, ivory, pearl, etc., worn attacht to the wrist by a blue ribbon from the age of 5 or 6 months up.

Teetsook—a saddle-bag made of buffalo hide, from which the hair has been removed; in use on the plains.

Telegraph messenger’s uniform—(Western Union): double-breasted blouse with one outside (breast) pocket and Prussian collar, red cord trimming, trousers to match; (Postal): single-breasted blouse, white cord trimming.

Telescope—an article of hand luggage of two parts, each shaped like boxes without covers, one sliding or telescoping into the other and held together by straps; usually canvas-covered with leather trimmings.

Telescope hat—a flat topt, soft felt h., not creast in the middle like a fedora h., but with a gutter all around the top of the crown.

Tennis flannel—see Outing cloth; also Flannel.

Tennis hat—a light felt h. of soft texture, usually of light colors, worn in outdoor sports.

Tennis robe—a sort of dressing gown for wear between dressing room and court or while resting, usually of flannel or other light material.

Tennis shoe—a low s. of soft leather or canvas, having rubber soles and low or no heels.

Tennis ulster—same as t. robe (qv) but fashioned especially like an overcoat or u. and always made of light-weight cloth or flannel.

Tenterhook willey—see Mixing picker.

Tentering—the process of stretching fabrics, during the operation of finishing, so that they may dry evenly and of a specified width.

Territory—wool classification term. See Wool.

Terry—a pile fabric in which the loops are uncut; when of cotton or linen, largely used for bath robes, bath towels, etc.

Terry velvet—v. with the pile uncut.

Test—any means or method of determining quality, strength, etc., of any fabric or textil material, dye, etc. See Cotton t., Linen t., Wool t., etc.

Testimonials—voluntary letters written by people who want to see their names in print; sometimes written on request.

Tete de negre—textil term for “niggerhead” effects.

Teufelsdroeckh—the Herr Professor who enunciated a great theory of clothes. Read (and enjoy) Sartor Resartus.

259Textil—(a) of or pertaining to weaving or woven fabrics; (n) a woven fabric or material suitable for weaving. (Textile.)

Textil silk—see Artificial s.

Textil soap—general term for s. used for (1) scouring raw wool; (2) scouring yarns, and (3) scouring and fulling of cloth; of different composition, according to the use intended.

Texture—the disposition, arrangement, character or quality presented by the threads, filaments or other components of a woven fabric; as loose t., firm t., coarse t., etc.; or in other words, a trade term meaning size and number of threads per inch in a fabric.

Thatch—unkempt hair; unshaved face growth.

Thermos bottle—a device consisting of a glass bottle contained within a vacuum enclosed by another bottle encased in metal, and suitably sealed when in use, its peculiar properties being that boiling hot liquids may be kept hot in the lowest temperature from 24 to 48 hours, and ice-cold liquids kept cold in tropical weather equally long, making the device of unusual value to tourists, the sick room, etc.

Thibet—a soft, smooth, compact, twill woven, woolen cloth, made of wool or cotton warp with wool filling; more elastic and softer than melton, not so nappy as cheviot, often made in imitation of unfinisht worsted, and largely adulterated with shortstaple wool or shoddy; commonly dyed black or navy blue.

Thick-set—a sort of stout velveteen or fustian used for working clothes, etc.

Thimble—a metal shield worn on one finger by tailors, seamstresses and others, in sewing, for pushing needles thru fabrics.

Thong—a slender strip of leather for fastening.

Thong stitcht—sewed with rawhide; usually employed in connection with athletic gloves, etc.

Thoraki—a peculiar sort of sack-like bloomer trousers, usually of blue cotton, very voluminous at bottom, the legs seemingly protruding thru the corners, worn by Greek peasants.

Thread-about—weaving term, meaning that the warp or weft, or more properly both, may be of alternate material, as cotton and linen, silk and linen, silk and wool, cotton-and-wool, etc.

Thread marks—when a chopt (cut-out) garment is delivered to a journeyman tailor or operator for making up, he first proceeds to sew thru the two parts, only one of which is markt, with white (or black) thread wherever the cutter has indicated pockets, buttons, seam lines, etc., which when split apart leave both sides (which being cut in duplicate were hitherto markt [in chalk] only on one piece) equally and more permanently markt alike by bits of thread; these bastings, of course, being removed as the garment is completed.

Threadbare—worn down to the warp; seedy.

260Three balls—the arms of everybody’s uncle.

Three-cockt hat—see below.

Three cornered hat—a h. with brim turned up and fastened to side of crown in three places; first worn in England during reign of William III. Also called three-cockt h. See Continental h.

Three-eighths—see Wool.

Three-seamer—term used early in last century among English tailors referring to coats made with three principal seams.

Three-square hat—same as three-cornered h.

Throat point—that part of the shoe where the vamp and the top come together in front of the instep.

Through-and-through—see Thru-and-thru.

Throwing—the processes (winding, cleaning, doubling, twisting, re-winding, reeling, etc.) of putting raw silk into the threads required for the different kinds of weaving; these threads are known as singles, tram, and organzine (qv).

Throwster—a worker in a silk mill.

Thru-and-thru—trade term for worsteds in which the pattern shows on the back as well as the face; the opposit of backt cloth; specially indicating finer quality. (Through-and-through.)

Thru-lighting test—(cotton vs. linen.) When a linen fabric is held between the light and the eyes of the observer, it appears to be striped; cotton cloth is uniform.

Thrum—(1) the fringe of warp threads remaining on a loom after the web has been cut off; (2) coarse or waste yarn.

Thumb cuff—a metallic article of apparel carried by the police of some cities, conferred upon the party honored by placing over his thumbs and locking same together, being considered neater and more effectiv than handcuffs.

Thumb test—a common method of testing the tensil strength of fabrics, the material being taken in both hands and stretcht over the thumbs, which are held close together, and act as a straining or breaking point.

Tick mitten—loose m. of stout ticking used by truck drivers, farm laborers, etc.

Ticket pocket—see Change p.

Ticking—a stout, twilled cotton or linen material, with woven or printed stripes, employed for tents, mattress covers, carpenters’ aprons, etc.

Tidy—neat.

Tie—see Wig.

Tie clip—see Scarf fastener.

Tied-and-dried—dyer’s term, indicating that the design or pattern has been achieved by tying the material (silk or cotton cloth, etc.) tightly into knots before immersion into the dye, 261which results in a solid ground color, having peculiar designs where the dye was unable to penetrate the t. spots.

Tiftik—Turkish for mohair.

Tight roll—trade term for umbrellas, usually with a light steel rod, and covered with light-weight silk, designed to roll very closely or tight. Also called “close r.”

Tights—(1) a skin-fitting garment, preferably of silk, largely worn by actors and acrobats for facilitating action and displaying the form; sometimes covering the body, but more commonly the legs; (2) a tight-fitting undergarment.

Tights—one of the old names for knee breeches or “shorts”.

Tile—a hat; particularly, a tall silk h.

Tillet—a thin linen fabric stiffened with glue and used in the first half of the last century as a stiffening for coat fronts, collars, etc.

Tin—used largely in weighting cheap silks.

Tinsel braid—any braid of finely spun metal threads, woven in a variety of patterns, used for livery, uniforms, etc.

Tinsel brocade—see Brocade.

Tip—a protectiv or ornamental cap over the toe of a shoe.

Tip printer—one who prints hat tips (qv).

Tippet—(1) a long, knit, woolen scarf, worn as a muffler; (2) a fur shoulder cape; (3) a shoulder scarf worn by clergymen in place of a hood (see Amice).

Titan braid—see Hercules b.

Tobacco pouch—a small bag of soft leather, rubber or other material.

Tobago—a palm grown in the West Indies and tropical America, the slender stems of which are used for walking sticks, etc.

Toboggan cap—a knitted, woolen c., usually all white or in bright parti-colors, conical in shape, of various lengths, the apex finisht with a tassel, the open-end being folded up one or more times until the effect suits the mind and the head of the wearer; sometimes worn over the ears.

Toe plate—(1) see shoe p.; (2) a brass or aluminum cap worn at the outer edge of the toe of a shoe (as baseball s.) for protection.

Toff—vernacular for a flashy dresser; a dude. (British.)

Toga—an elliptical mantle, about 5 × 4 yards in size, worn doubled and gathered on the left shoulder, so as to hang in broad folds—worn by the old Romans.

Togged to the nines—nautical slang for an officer in full dress.

Toggery—clothes.

Togs—clothes.

Toile—French for fabric.

Toilet—the process of dressing.

Toilet paper—soft, thin, tender, manilla tissue p., readily soluble, for use in water closets.

262Toilet soap—s. with its constituent greases disguised by high perfumes.

Toilet water—a dilute perfume.

Toilinet—a stout, closely woven, vesting material, usually of silk or cotton warp with wool filling, plain or loom figured. (Toilinette.)

Tom Astoner—nautical slang for a gay, dashing fellow.

Tommyhole—the accommodation opening in front of a boy’s first pants.

Toney—good style; smart; good form.

Tongs—trousers or overalls of tow or nativ cloth, worn by farm laborers in Colonial days; nickname for first long t. of boys of Revolutionary times: similar to the pantaloons of 1820.

Tongue—a strip of leather, loose or partly or wholly attacht up the sides, for closing the gap of a laced shoe. See Bellows t.

Tonsorial—of or pertaining to a barber.

Tonsure—the crown of the head shaven, leaving a surrounding fringe.

Toorie—the tassel on a Glengarry cap.

Toothpick—sometimes used in place of suspender buttons.

Toothpick collar—in tailoring a very slender or narrow coat c.

Toothpick toe—a very sharp-pointed t.—a shoe fashion now thankfully out of mind.

Top boots—b. with high tops, straight or flaring, and frequently of different color leather, sometimes richly decorated; worn by carriage servants, jockeys, sportsmen, and formerly for ostentatious dress, as part of military uniform, etc. See also Jack b.

Top coat—a light overcoat.

Top hat—a high silk h.; a “topper”.

Top lift—the outer or finishing layer of leather on the heel of a shoe.

Top piece—the same.

Top pocket—a p. in trousers, the opening of which extends in a diagonal line from a point midway between the two front waistband buttons to a point on the side seam a few inches below the waistband.

Top-shirt—same as over-s.; a working s.

Top side—tailor’s term for the t. or upper part of a pattern, as the t. part of a sleeve.

Topper—(1) a “top” or silk hat; (2) a top coat.

Toppiness—wool trade term for a sort of uneven felting of fibers at the top of the fleece.

Tops—(1) the long, straight fibers of wool—term used during combing process; (2) bundles of 1½ pounds of combed wool ready for spinning.

263Toque—a knitted conical cap worn in Canada for tobogganing and other winter sports.

Torpedo beard—a la Captain Kettle.

Torrington—a name given to cotton gloves of a special quality adapted to military or similar use.

Tortoise shell—the epidermal plates of the carapace of a testudinate reptil—or—in English—the shell or house of a sea turtle.

Totem—a red-skin’s “coat of arms”, the device being painted on the breast. Each tribe and family have different “bearings”, which serve as a name or designation. Generally, totems are representations of animals.

Toupee—a little tuft, curl or artificial lock of hair; the top of a periwig; a small wig covering a bald spot.

Toupee paste—a gummy substance for making toupees adhere to the scalp.

Tourist cap—a round crown cloth c. with a visor and a band that may be turned down, covering the back of the head.

Tourist coat—a double-breasted ulster, usually of rough Scotch goods with the regular notcht or peakt collar instead of the typical ulster collar (qv); worn with or without a belt.

Tourist coating—general term for heavy Scotch and novelty overcoatings suitable for ulsters, tourist coats, etc.

Tourist collar bag—a b. with flat round bottom and soft sides closed at top by draw strings, intended to keep collars clean in suit case, trunk, etc. Usually made of leather and variously trimmed.

Tourist strap—an adjustably buckled leather strap, having snap buckles on the two ends; used for carrying small luggage.

Tourist suit—a name sometimes given to a s. of tweed or similar goods having a Norfolk jacket instead of a sack coat.

Tourniquet—a bandage with a screw or lever attachment, which when applied to a wounded limb stops the flow of blood by external pressure.

Tow—inferior flax.

Tow cloth—old-time linen homespun.

Towel—(1) a cloth, usually of linen, for drying the person after washing; (2) when saturated with ice water a most effectiv headdress for the morning after.

Town made—trade term for fabric gloves cut and sewed much after the manner of leather gloves.

Tracer—see Tracing wheel.

Tracing wheel—a small revolving metal w. with sharp teeth and a suitable handle, used for tracing paper patterns, for making two or more sheets of pattern paper adhere while being cut simultaneously, etc.

264Trade journal—a daily, weekly or monthly periodical that essays to represent some particular trade or industry.

Trading stamp—“something for nothing”, but like all such promises never yet demonstrated; also a joke vehicle for cheap vaudevillians.

Tram—woof silk of two or more threads of raw silk slightly twisted.

Tramp—a wandering journeyman tailor; a near-hobo.

Traps—traveling luggage; personal possessions; movable property.

Traveling hat—see Crusher.

Travers—French textil term indicating weftwise stripes or ribs.

Treble-milled—sheared and finisht three times.

Trees—wooden lasts, for shape-retaining purposes, for boots, shoes, gloves, etc.

Trews—the ancient Celtic form of “trousers”.

Tricot—a closely woven, double-twilled woolen cloth, constructed of two sets of warp threads (one of which is frequently cotton) and one of weft, the weave characterized by faint lines or ribs running either warpwise or weftwise, usually plain dyed.

Tricot flannel—a coarse-woven, elastic f.

Tricot long—t. in which the rib runs lengthwise. See T.

Trig—spruce; fine.

Trigger finger—the forefinger of the right hand.

Trilby—a soft felt hat with a plush-like surface resembling the old-fashioned “beaver”; in shape a sort of Alpine, but varying with different makers and with the touches given it by individual wearers. (1908.)

Trimmers—in clothing manufacturing, the various workpeople who match up fabrics with linings, sewing silk, buttons, etc.

Trimming buttons—any b. used decorativly; more specifically, small flat covered b. of from 10 to 24 lines in size, tho satin and velvet b. up to 36 lines are also so called; also round and fancy shapes are so called, tho little used in men’s wear.

Triplicate mirror—a m. of three sections (usually framed), connected together and adjustable so that one may see himself in several positions simultaneously.

Trooper’s uniform—see the various descriptions of army uniforms, under Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u., Fatigue u., etc.

Tropical weight—trade term for suitings averaging 9 to 11 ounces to the yard. Compare Winter w., Spring w., Summer w., Fall w.

Trousering—any woolen or worsted fabric designed especially for trousers, as fancy striped worsteds.

265Trousers—bifurcated garments for the lower limbs; called “pants” by “gents”; frequently assumed for the good of the service (?) by our better halves. See Broad falls, Narrow falls, Evening dress t., Riding t., Gaiter t., etc. Compare Breeches, Knickerbockers, Pantaloons, etc.

Trousers—see Dress t. (army); Dungaree t. (navy); Full dress t. (army, navy and marine corps); Service t. (army); White t. (army); Evening dress t. (marine corps); Undress t. (marine corps); Field t. (marine corps); Special full dress t. (marine corps).

Trousers stretcher—a device for keeping t. in shape and wrinkleless by means of tension—and there are many of such devices of varying shapes and utility.

Trousers stripes—(army) for enlisted men: cavalry, yellow; artillery, scarlet; infantry, white; engineers, scarlet, white piping; ordnance, black, scarlet piping; post quartermaster sergeants, buff; post commissary sergeants, cadet gray; hospital corps, maroon, white piping; signal corps, orange, white piping; West Point service, buff. All non-commissioned officers above rank of corporal wear stripes 1¼ in. wide; corporals ½ in.; musicians and trumpeters 2 stripes each ½ in. wide.

Trowsers—old spelling of trousers.

Troy—a town in New York where nearly all the collars, cuffs and shirts of commerce are made.

True lover’s knot—a kind of double k. with two bows and two ends, as a symbol of constancy or fidelity in love; a k. of ribbon given to be worn in token of love and fidelity.

Trunk—an article of traveling luggage, of various shapes, sizes and manufacture; and constituting the chief means of physical culture of baggage smashers.

Trunk breeches—see T. hose.

Trunk hose—a kind of full breeches, extending to the middle of the thighs, worn in 16th and 17th centuries; invented by James I to hide a deformity of hip disease.

Trunk strap—an extra large, heavy, strong leather s. used when trunks are frail or their locks unreliable.

Trunks—(1) an article of athletic apparel covering the loins and no more, usually made of velvet and with an elastic waistband; (2) a jersey for covering the body from the waist to the thighs, worn by swimmers, athletes, etc. See Bathing t.

Truss—(1) a tight-fitting, padded jacket of 16th century; (2) trousers; (3) drawers.

Truss—a metal or rubber spring or belt, with cushioned pad, bandages, straps, etc., worn for preventing or reducing hernias.

Try-on—(n) an unfinisht garment ready for the tailor to fit to the customer; (v) to shape, fit and adjust partly made garments to their ultimate wearer.

266Tub—trade term for washable.

Tub washt—term applied to wool fleece broken and washt, more or less, by hand or machinery.

Tubbing—a salt water bath in the process of curing furs and leather.

Tubular—having the form of a tube, as shoelaces, braids, certain makes of belts, etc.

Tubular braid—formed by uniting an even number of threads, half running right to left, half left to right, crossing alternately over and under the threads of the opposing group.

Tuck—a flat fold in a fabric; ask your wife to show you the difference between a tuck and a plait.

Tufftaffeta—taffeta silk of the long ago (then much heavier than our present-day taffeta) with velvet or plush tufts of nap or raised pile, used for doublets and jerkins.

Tump line—the head-band of pack harness used by hunters, prospectors, et al.

Tunic—a blouse gathered at the waist or allowed to hang free.

Tunic—(1) an undress military coat; (2) the tight-fitting jacket of the British guardsmen.

Tunic—(1) a sort of shirt or blouse, reaching to the knees, with short sleeves, usually fastened with a girdle, worn by the ancient Romans; (2) the Greek chiton (qv).

Tunicle—a close-fitting vestment worn by sub-deacons, of the same material as the chasuble, reaching to the sleeves and with tight sleeves.

Tunis hat—a small cap once worn to distinguish a trade or profession.

Turban—(1) a plain cap without visor or brim; usually of velvet or cloth; (2) an oriental head covering consisting of a sash, scarf or shawl twisted about the tarboosh or cap; an innocent vanity of colonial gentlemen, worn with banyan gown when the wig was removed at home, often of velvet and other rich materials, high colored and fanciful.

Turkish yarn—y. made of the hair of the Angora goat; also called camlet y.

Turks’ satin—see S. Turk.

Turn-down collar—see Prussian c.

Turn list—a l. kept in dull seasons, by some manufacturing concerns or employers, of work to be done and of workpeople, so that the latter may, each in his turn, be given his share of what work is on hand.

Turn-over—the turned-in extremity of trouser legs and sleeves. Compare Turn-up.

Turn-over collar—same as Prussian c.

267Turn-up—(1) the outwardly folded cuffs on the bottoms of trousers legs; (2) the ordinary turned-under hem on ditto, which if folded up is considered a sign of rain in London.

Turncoat—clothing terms are sometimes wofully prostituted.

Turned sole—a shoe without an inner s., the uppers of which are sewn to a channel cut into the s. while turned inside out. When sewn, the shoe is soaked in water until flexible and then turned right side out, hence the name.

Turner’s pants—athletic trousers of light-weight flannel with foot straps.

Turniket—see Tourniquet.

Turnip—slang for watch, especially the old-fashioned bulbous kind.

Turnip pants—trousers brought out during the late bicycle craze, convertible from ordinary business trousers to cycling knickers and vice versa. (Proprietary name.)

Turtle neck—term applied to knitted sweaters having an extra long collar or n. which is turned down or folded over several times. Compare V n.

Tusseh silk—a fine, brilliant s. fabric, very strong, woven from s. obtained from the tusseh s. worm of India, bred on the jujube tree.

Tuxedo—see Dinner jacket.

Tuxedo alpine—a soft or a. hat for semi-formal dress wear, made of or covered with silk.

Tuxedo derby—a d. hat for semi-formal dress wear, made of or covered with silk.

Tuxedo hat—same as above. Also see Dress derby.

Tweed—general name for twill woven all-wool fabrics of soft open texture, rather loose and coarse in appearance but of good weight, having loom-made patterns in stripes, checks and plaids. Originally made in Scotland, but now everywhere. See Waulking.

Twentieth century cutting—a style of diamond c. differing from brilliant c. (qv) in not having a flat table or face, but with the crown facets brought to a point for greater brilliancy.

Twig—a riding whip or crop.

Twill—any textil fabric in which the weft threads do not pass over and under the warp in alternate succession, as in plain weaving, but regularly in a varying arrangement as over one and under two, three, four, etc. Technically known as two leaf, three leaf, four leaf t., etc. See encyclopedia.

Twilled—woven in such manner as to produce lines or ribs diagonally or across the surface of the fabric. See above.

Twills—old Scotch name for tweed.

Twist—English (trade) term for warp (qv).

268Twist—see Buttonhole t.

Twist stitch—same as Cord s.

Twist wig—see Wig.

Twisted—tailoring term indicating that a coat sleeve, a trouser leg, etc., is put in badly so as to shift sidewise out of line.

Twisted—same as damask or jowhir—read a technical work for description of the process.

Twists—trade term for woolen and worsted fabrics woven of yarns that are of two colors doubled and twisted together, giving a mottled appearance to the pattern effect, as in Bannockburns, Drummond worsteds, etc.

Twitty—mill term for uneven yarns.

Two-hole—trade term for buttons pierced with 2 holes or eyes.

Two-piece vamp—a v. composed of two pieces of upper leather.

Two-year serge—a specially good quality of serge featured by a large tailoring firm in London, England, which guarantees it to give two years’ wear, whence name.

Tyrolean hat—a sort of alpine or fedora h., soft felt, of a green color, having the bow of the band behind and a feather flaunting therein.

U

Ulster—a long, loose, heavy overcoat for rough or cold weather wear, usually double-breasted.

Ulster collar—a very deep c. made with an extra upward cut or notch at the apex of the notch at the step, the purpose being that the coat may be buttoned close up to the throat while the c. may be lapt over itself and stand straight upward from the throat point, which is not possible with any other style of c.

Ultra—extreme; verging on vulgarity; dangerously near being contemptuous.

Umbrel—vernacular for umbrella.

Umbrella—an article of luxury and convenience with a penchant for changing owners.

Umpire’s mask—a face guard of wire and leather, worn as a protection against thrown or batted balls and pop-bottles; usually lighter than a catcher’s m.

Unbasted—trade term for the process of sewing garments together without the parts being previously basted together, and for the garments so made; likewise applied to the workpeople who sew in this manner.

269Unclad—unclothed.

Uncle—a custodian of overcoats and jewelry—per consideration.

Under lining—the inside lining inside or “back” of a vest.

Under-part—tailoring term for the lower or under side of a pattern, as the under part of a sleeve.

Under weight—not up to sample (as of woolen fabrics not as heavy as claimed); less than contract requirements.

Underbasting—in clothes manufacture, the operation of basting facings and linings to the foreparts of coats as received from the underpressers and straighteners.

Underclothing—those most intimate.

Undercoat—a body c.; a suit c.

Undercollar—tailoring term for the underside of a coat collar, usually, but not necessarily, made of a different and softer cloth (vide infra).

Undercollar cloth—a thin, pliable plain woven c. with little or no inclination to ravel; a variety of melton or ladies-c.; used for working the underside of coat collars.

Undergraduate’s gown—a long, loose g. of black stuff, ordinarily with pointed sleeves.

Underpresser—a workman who does underpressing (qv).

Underpressing—in clothing manufacture, the act of taking a partly made garment (as a coat in which the outer seams have been closed, pockets fitted, interlinings and padding put in place, etc.) and subjecting it to ironing under heavy mechanical pressure. Compare First p. and After p.

Undershirt—a garment worn next the hide.

Underside—see Under-part.

Undertaker’s cloth—see Casket c.

Underwaist—a boy’s undergarment with buttons for holding up drawers, trousers, etc.

Undress—in livery, whipcord service garments.

Undress—(navy) the prescribed attire for all ordinary occasions. Generally designated blue u. and white u. For chief petty officers, except bandmasters, officers’ stewards and officers’ cooks: blue flannel or serge coat, and trousers, blue cap, white shirt and collar or blue flannel shirt (blue flannel or serge waistcoat permitted; also clothing that has been long in use as dress may be worn for undress); (white u.: same as for dress). For bandsmen: blue u. coat, blue cloth trousers, blue u. cap; (white u.: white coat and trousers, cap with white cover). For all other enlisted men: blue overshirt, blue cloth or flannel trousers, blue cap, neckerchief, knife lanyard (seaman branch only); (white u.: white u. jumper, white u. trousers, white hat, neckerchief, knife lanyard (seaman branch only).

270Undress A—(navy) the uniform to be worn when reporting for duty, when serving on courts or boards and upon various occasions of ceremony. Consists of—for all commissioned officers: frock coat, u. trousers (white may be prescribed), blue cap (white cap or helmet if prescribed), shoulder straps, sword and u. belt (except for chaplains), scarf, white gloves; for midshipmen, warrant officers, mates and clerks, the same, without shoulder straps.

Undress B—(navy) the same as “Undress A”, without sword or belt. To be worn when calling on foreign officers other than commanding officers; at informal day receptions; on the deck of a vessel going in or out of port. (In hot weather white service dress may be ordered.)

Undress belt—(navy) for officers, a b. of plain black grain leather, with mountings as per regulation.

Undress breeches—(marine corps) for officers, same as full dress b.

Undress cap—(marine corps) a c. similar to the full dress c., but ½ in. less in hight. For major general commandant: a 1½ in. band of blue-black velvet; vertical 9 rows of 3 lines of ⅛ in. black silk tubular braid from edge of band to top of c. in front, back and on each side with a knot of 4 double loops of same braid on top of c.; a chin-cord of gold wire attacht to marine corps buttons, the visor ornamented with oak leaves embroidered in gold bullion, ornament of corps device set in gold acorn leaves. For all other officers: the same except that the band is of lustrous black mohair braid, the ornament to be without the gold acorn leaves, and the visor unornamented. For non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates: of dark blue cloth, 3¼ in. high in front, 3 in. high behind, bell shaped crown, 1⅝ in. black patent leather visor dropt 60° from horizontal, enameled leather chin strap; other details per specifications. For leader of the band, same as prescribed for commissioned officers of the corps. For second leader and musicians, same as prescribed for other enlisted men, except that the c. is covered between welts with flat black mohair braid. For drum-major, same as prescribed for other non-commissioned officers. Summer u.: for leader of band, of white duck, same as prescribed for commissioned officers; for second leader, drum-major and musicians, same as prescribed for other enlisted men.

Undress coat—(navy) for bandsmen, a half-fitting single-breasted c. of dark blue flannel with 7 gilt buttons, closing to the neck, standing collar, the coat pipe-edged down the front, around the bottom, at base of collar, shoulder straps, etc., with scarlet cloth; insignia as per regulation. Same c. is worn by enlisted men in the marine corps.

271Undress coat—(marine corps) for major general commandant and all officers: a sack c. of dark blue cloth, single-breasted, cut half close, the side seams vented, standing collar (of dark blue velvet for major general commandant), trimmed across breast with black mohair tubular braid, black frogs and black stuft crochet buttons; trimmings, devices, etc., as per regulations. Also a white c. of drill or duck, single-breasted sack style, cut semi-fitting, with four outside patch pockets, trimmed per regulations. For non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates, a single-breasted sack c. of dark blue flannel, cut half close without center seam in back, in length reaching to the crotch, fastened with 7 marine corps buttons, standing collar; the c. pipt down front, around the bottom, base of collar, shoulder and sleeve straps with scarlet flannel, with other details as prescribed. For summer u., a single-breasted sack c. of white linen of same pattern and style as prescribed for field c. (qv), with brass buttons. For leader of band, of dark blue cloth, cut and trimming the same as prescribed for first lieutenant. For second leader of band, the same as prescribed for enlisted men of the line, with exceptions in trimming, etc. For musicians, same as prescribed for enlisted men of the line. For drum-major, same as prescribed for other enlisted men. Summer undress c. for leader, same as prescribed for commissioned officers of marine corps; for second leader, drum-major and musicians, same as prescribed for other enlisted men of the corps.

Undress jumper—(navy) same as dress j. (qv) but made entirely of white, unbleacht drill, and with sleeves without fitting cuffs; worn as prescribed for dress.

Undress sword belt—(marine corps) for all officers and leader of the band “of fair leather, not stuft russet”, 1¾ inches wide, with detachable slings to match, trimmings of dull bronze metal.

Undress trousers—(navy) of dark blue cloth or serge, with plain seams.

Undress trousers—(marine corps) for major general commandant and all other officers, blue and white, as prescribed for full dress. For non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates, the same as prescribed for full dress. For summer u., of white linen, as furnished by Quartermaster’s department. For leader of the band, same as prescribed for full dress for officers of the line. For second leader and drum-major, same as prescribed for non-commissioned officers. For musicians, same as full dress except a single ³⁄₁₆ inch welt of scarlet cloth on outer seams. Summer u., for leader and all other members of band, white linen as furnished by Quartermaster’s department.

Undress uniform—(marine corps) by officers: to be habitually worn on duty, unless other u. is prescribed, when reporting for duty on or appearing before courts or boards, and when calling 272upon officials of our own or of a foreign service, or when associated with officers of the navy who are in u. A or B or service dress; by enlisted men: habitually on or off duty when other u. is not prescribed; by members of the band: likewise. Consists of, for all officers: u. coat (blue or white), blue or white u. cap (or white helmet), full dress or white trousers, sword with white slings (or of leather if worn over blue coat), and u. sword knot, white gloves, white standing collar (with blue coat), black shoes; when mounted: dark blue riding breeches, drab leather gloves, black boots with spurs; at drills and exercises, on marches and in the field, white gloves may be dispensed with by order of commanding officer and russet leather leggings or puttees may be ordered. For all enlisted men (including non-commissioned officers, drummers and trumpeters): u. coat (blue or white), blue cap or white helmet, blue or white trousers, white gloves, black leather shoes (russet with white trousers if prescribed), white cap cover over blue cap if prescribed, arms and accouterments as ordered. Bandsmen (including leader and drum-major), u. coat (blue or white), blue or white trousers, blue cap or white helmet, sword with u. belt and knot (leader only), white gloves, black leather shoes (russet with white trousers if prescribed), white cap cover over blue cap if prescribed, accouterments as ordered.

Undress waistcoat—(navy) a single-breasted, high buttoning w. of dark blue cloth or serge or of white linen duck or similar material, without collar, closing with 6 small navy buttons. For chaplains the same, but with plain black or white buttons.

Undrest kid—see Suede. (Undressed.)

Unfinisht—trade term for fabrics that are not sheared or milled and have a slight nap or roughness. (Unfinished.)

Unfinisht serge—s. that has not been sheared, closely resembling u. worsted.

Unfinisht worsted—a soft, dull finisht, twilled cloth, woven similarly to serge, sparingly sheared so as to leave a soft nap.

Uniform—livery distinguishing the members of military, naval or civil bodies or societies and employes of clubs, corporations, etc. Compare Livery.