Dictionary (continued 5)

Pig-tail—the common twisted chewing tobacco.

Pig-tail wig—a w. with a long tail worn hanging down or tied up with a bow. Tempus George II.-III.

Pigeon-toed—the toes inclining or pointing inwardly.

Pigskin—a stout, coarse-grained leather made of hog’s hide.

Piker—the smallest thing living; an ostentatious buyer and heavy canceller; a short-string merchant; a trifler; a kike.

Pillow—slang for catcher’s mitten.

Pillow-case—a good thing to hit when ausgespielt.

Pilot cloth—a heavy, woolen overcoating c., smooth faced, similar to kersey or beaver, usually dyed navy blue, and intended for marine wear.

Pimento—a peculiar and handsome wood grown in Jamaica, possessing a grain or texture susceptible of a very high polish; much used for walking sticks.

Pin—a little article having many worthier uses than to bend crookedly for teacher’s chair.

Pin check—in weaving, a name given to minute checks or squares, effected thru colored yarns, resembling pin heads in size.

Pin rib—a very delicate rib or cord.

Pin seal—trade term for s. leather (qv) having a very fine, close grain. Compare Cow s.

Pin tucks—plaits about one-sixteenth of an inch wide.

Pinafore—the sleeveless aprons we wore to keep our dresses clean, at table and elsewhere, when we were young.

Pince nez—eye-glasses held in place by a spring that clamps the nose.

187Pinch collar—same as meeting folder.

Pinchbeck—4 parts copper, 1 of zinc, looks like gold.

Pine tree—trade name for a cloth made of long fleece wool, knitted 108 inches wide and by washing in hot water and soap shrunk to 56 inches wide; mostly used for outdoor clothing in the North.

Pine wool—the decorticated fiber of pine shats, spun into a coarse yarn and used in a limited way for knitted “health garments” and for bagging. Also called fir-wool. See also Vegetable flannel and Wood w.

Pining out—in hat making the act or process of squeezing the water out of a hat body with a round stick similar to a kitchen rolling pin.

Pink—alleged English for red; used only in connection with hunting coats (properly scarlet refines).

Pink—a color not to be worn by boy babies.

Pink coat—imputed English name for red hunting coats.

Pinkie—the little finger (colloquial).

Pinking—(n) puncht scallops along the edge of a lining or other part of a garment or article, taking the place of and needing no binding or other finish; (v) the act or process of punching a scallopt pattern on the margin of fabrics, leather, etc.

Pinking iron—a cutting tool used in scalloping leather, cloth, etc.—driven by blows of a mallet.

Pinning blanket—one of our first acquaintances among clothes; a barrow coat.

Pipe—jewelry trade term for collar buttons, rings, cuff buttons, etc., made of hollow metal instead of being cast, forged or drawn solid.

Pipe case—a pocket container invented for the presumable purpose of preventing the odor of a foul pipe from permeating one’s clothes.

Pipe-clay—a white clay used in whitening military accoutrements, and by wearers of white shoes for making a muss around the house.

Piped-edge—in tailoring an e. finish obtained by placing a strip of cloth, usually contra color, between the joined edges so that the extra strip or piping, which usually encloses a cord for firmness and prominence, shall slightly project or show beyond the turnback of the e.

Piped pocket—made as a jetted p., but with an edge piece of other contrasting material as velvet, colored cloth, etc.

Piped seam—see Corded s.

Piping—a covered cord for trimming, applied along edges and seams.

188Pique—a stout ribbed or welted cotton fabric woven of two sets of warp (1) “slack”, forming the face, and (2) “tight”, engaging the “slack” in the ribs or welts, which are filled in with soft weft to swell them. Also woven in figured patterns, in which case better known as Marseilles.

Pique seam—(glove term) one edge of the join overlapping the other and stitcht thru and thru, much used for back seams. Also called flat s. and lap s.

Pistol pocket—usually the right hip p. in trousers.

Pitch—balance, as, of a coat; hang.

Pitcher’s toe plate—see T. plate.

Pith helmet—a light h. made from the pith of an Indian tree, first worn by the English army in Egypt.

P. K.—glove trade abbreviation for pique, which see.

Placket—an arrangement for closing any open part of a garment by means of concealed buttons or snaps; a fly (qv).

Plaid—colored bars or stripes crossing each other at right angles; a tartan pattern.

Plaid—a traveling rug or shawl, so called from the commonest patterns being plaids.

Plaid—a long piece of Scotch woolen, in clan or tartan colors, worn over the shoulders and fastened at the belt in such a manner as to form a kilt (qv); the name applies even if the goods are plain.

Plaid-back covert—see Albert cloth.

Plaiding—(1) a stout twilled woolen fabric, similar to flannel; (2) one of the old names for kersey, of a grade used for men’s plaids or kilts.

Plain clothes man—a policeman out of uniform.

Plain edge—in tailoring, a finish to the edges of garments showing no rows of stitching on the outer surface; properly attained by means of a felling or prick stitch and in manner as described under those terms; a blind e.

Plain seam—tailoring term for goods sewed together, face to face, and then turned right side out, each side of the s. turned back and prest flat. Also called regular s.

Plain weave—that in which every second warp thread is above the filling thread, while the alternate threads are below, and the positions of the warp threads are reversed for the next filling thread; or to say it differently, one set of threads crossing another series at right angles, passing over and under each other in regular alternation and succession.

Plait—a flattened sewed fold or gather.

Plaited bosom—a shirt b. arranged in one way or box plaits.

Plaited trousers—see Cossacks.

189Planter—a wide brimmed, soft felt hat with a fairly large crown, worn without dents or creases.

Plastron—a sort of shield bosom effect noticed principally on uniform coats.

Plastron—a protecting shield worn by fencers.

Plastron—a flat scarf or cravat of white wash goods, worn by coachmen; also called punjaub and claudent.

Plated—jeweler’s term for baser metals electro-plated with gold or silver; also for cheap jewelry made thereof. Compare Washt, Rolled gold, Gold filled, Solid gold, etc.

Plated—term in knitting for hosiery and underwear woven with an outer-face of silk on a wool foundation, or silk on cotton, or wool on cotton, etc.

Plated—hatters’ term for hats of which the face or nap is of fur on a body of wool.

Pleat—plait is correct.

Pleating—a process in leather manufacture where the skins, after staining and trimming, are folded flesh to flesh, preparatory to going to the coloring department for color-finishing. (Plaiting?)

Plebeskin—a West Point term for the fatigue jacket.

Plisse—a shirred effect produced in weaving.

Plowing shoe—broadly, any heavy working s.; usually of brogan or creole pattern or modifications thereof.

Plug—a tall silk or felt hat.

Plug hat—same.

Plume—a large ornamental feather or bunch of feathers.

Plume—to decorate one’s self with fine clothes.

Plunge dyed—term for leathers dyed by immersion and consequently of one color on both sides; used principally in glove trade to distinguish from leathers dyed only on the surface.

Plunket—a coarse, woolen variety of cloth-of-gold of the 12th and 13th centuries.

Plush—general name for fabrics having a longer pile than velvet (qv), and of silk, cotton or wool.

Plush—slang for formal or pretentious livery.

Ply—a web, layer or thickness, as two-p. cloth, etc.

Plymouth buck—a drab-colored buckskin.

P. M.—premium money or bonus given clerks for selling slowmoving goods—which is why you have to ask twice or oftener for the very newest thing.

Pocket—an opening in a garment to which a sort of bag, forming a receptacle for various impediments, is attacht. In tailoring there is a variety of different pockets, named according (1) to location in garment, (2) construction and (3) manner of finish; as (1) outside breast p., inside breast p., hip p., side p., top p., 190skirt p., watch p., ticket p., etc.; (2 and 3) regular or horizontal p., vertical p., welted p., piped p., patch p., bellows p., jetted p., slanting p., flap p., slash p., raw-edge p., raincoat p., etc., all of which see.

Pocket—tailor’s term for a certain contrived fullness in a coat front, vest, etc., for corpulent customers, as “a pocket for the belly”, as usually exprest.

Pocket flap—a covering for the opening of a pocket. See In-and-out f., Outside f., etc. The term “pocket f.” is used mostly in reference to trousers pockets, coat pocket flaps being usually designated by their style.

Pocket flask—held in various estimation.

Pocket handkerchief—see Handkerchief.

Pocket hat—see Crusher.

Pocket hole—the opening of or for a p.

Pocket knife—a k. having one or more blades which fold into the handle, for carrying in one’s pocket.

Pocket lid—a flap—a term little used and only among people unacquainted with technical terms.

Pocket pistol—(1) a handy piece of artillery; (2) a flask.

Pocketbook—a small leather book or case for money and papers.

Pocketing—trade term for any material used for making pockets, such as heavy drilling, stout unbleacht muslin, silesia, chamoiscloth, cotton velvet, etc.

Point-device—precise, exact, finical.

Points—the embroidered or welted spear heads on the backs of gloves.

Points—ties or laces of ribbon or yarn once used instead of buttons or for ornament, often quite decorativ.

Poke collar—a standing shirt c. with slight front opening, the points of which are forwardly accentuated, and bent softly.

Poke—slang for wallet.

Polar stocking—see German sock.

Police belts—(Chicago): for general superintendent, assistant superintendent and inspectors: white enamel leather with white silk cord and tassel; for captains, red; lieutenants, cardinal; sergeants and patrolmen, black, all with corresponding color silk cord and tassels (the two latter of blue-black, patrolmen of cotton); with stars, etc., per regulation.

Police caps—(New York): for chief inspector, borough and district inspector: a c. of dark blue cloth with welted sides, trimmed with velvet bands, gold lace and gold chin strap; drooping visor of black patent leather; for captains, same with bands of lustrous black mohair braid; for sergeants, same, without the mohair bands; for mounted roundsmen, same, with blue and yellow 191bands. Roundsmen and patrolmen wear helmets of pattern as may be prescribed from time to time.

Police uniforms—(Chicago): Dress coat: for general superintendent, assistant superintendent and inspectors: a double-breasted frock c. of a dark blue cloth, in length within 1½ inches of knee, buttoning close to throat with standing collar; collar and cuffs of blue-black velvet; 2 rows of gilt buttons, 8 each breast, groupt in pairs for superintendent and equidistant for others, 3 buttons on cuffs, 6 buttons in back on skirt facings and at waist; for captains and lieutenants: the same except with turnover velvet collar and plain cloth cuffs; for sergeants and patrolmen: a single-breasted frock c., closing to the neck with 8 buttons, with rolling collar; insignia of rank, service chevrons, etc., per regulations. Vest and trousers to match, the latter, for sergeants, to have a stripe of white soutache braid on outer seams. Overcoat; for general superintendent and all officers except sergeants: a double-breasted military sack o., of dark blue cloth, reaching to 10 inches below knee, closed to the throat with black mohair loops and olives with frogging, deep turned down collar, 2 inside and 2 regular outside pockets, deep center vent behind; the front and bottom edges, vent and pockets trimmed with flat black mohair braid; for sergeants and patrolmen: a double-breasted frock o. of dark blue cloth, in length to 4 inches below the knee, buttoning close to the chin with 2 rows of 9 buttons spaced equally, skirt trimmed with 6 buttons; turnover collar; flapped shirt pockets; inside breast and watch pockets; insignia per regulation. Summer uniforms—Coat: for general superintendent, assistant superintendent and inspectors: a double-breasted sack c. of dark blue cloth, reaching half way to the knee: turned over collar of blue-black velvet; cuffs ditto with 3 buttons; 2 rows of 5 buttons on breast equidistant; 2 outside lower and 2 inside breast pockets; for captains and lieutenants: the same, except with plain cuffs; for sergeants and patrolmen: a single-breasted sack c., square cut, length 4 inches below crotch, closing to neck with 5 buttons, turnover collar, 2 inside pockets in breast. Vest: for officers above grade of sergeant: white duck; for sergeants and patrolmen: blue cloth. Trousers to match coat.

Police uniforms—(New York) Dress coat: for chief inspector, borough and district inspectors: a double-breasted frock of dark blue cloth, reaching 1 inch below the knee; standing collar; pointed velvet cuffs trimmed with gold lace and 2 small buttons; 2 rows of buttons on breast, 3 in each row, equally spaced; double pointed side edges in the skirt plaits with a button at each point and 2 buttons at the waist; for captains and sergeants: the same, except a double row of 8 buttons on the breast, spaced equally, no velvet cuffs; for roundsmen on foot: a single-breasted frock c., closing to the neck with 9 buttons, turndown collar; for mounted 192roundsmen: a single-breasted sack c., fastened by a flap with concealed buttons, standing collar; for bicycle roundsmen: a double-breasted sack c., with 2 rows of 7 buttons, closed to the neck, with turndown collar; for patrolmen: same as for foot roundsmen, except without chevrons. Devices, chevrons and insignias of rank as per regulations. Trousers to match, plain or with braided seams per regulations; mounted roundsmen wear riding breeches of blue cloth with black puttee leggins. Overcoat: for chief inspector, borough and district inspectors: a double-breasted frock c. of dark blue cloth, reaching 2 inches below knee; rolling collar; buttoned to the throat with (2 rows) 9 buttons, equidistant; velvet cuffs with 3 buttons; double pointed side edge to skirt folds, with a button on each point and 2 buttons at waist; for captains and sergeants: the same, except 2 rows of 8 buttons, no velvet cuffs; for foot and mounted roundsmen and patrolmen: the same, except 2 rows of 9 buttons; for harbor roundsmen and patrolmen: a double-breasted sack o., reaching midway to knee, buttoned to neck with 5 buttons on each breast, rolling collar, 2 outside horizontal pockets. Insignia of rank, service devices, chevrons, etc., as prescribed. See also Special police u. Summer uniforms—Blouse: for chief inspector, borough and district inspectors, captains and sergeants: a double-breasted straight front sack c. of dark blue flannel, buttoning to the neck, with a standing collar, 5 buttons on each breast; for foot and harbor roundsmen: same style, but single-breasted, 4 buttons, with turndown collar; for mounted roundsmen: same as dress coat except half lined and skeleton back; for bicycle roundsmen: same as for mounted roundsmen, with appropriate insignia, etc.; for patrolmen: same as foot roundsmen, without chevrons—all with insignia, devices, chevrons, etc., as prescribed. Trousers to match.

Polish cloak—a c. with double cape; fashionable in 1832.

Polishing—a finishing process in leather manufacture.

Polishing cloth—a strip of cotton flannel used in shoe factories and by bootblacks for the finishing luster when polishing shoes.

Polka dot—solid round dots or spots of contrasting color.

Polo breeches—baggy riding b.

Polo cap—a “square” or flat topt c. with plain sides.

Polo collar—the double or folded highband linen shirt c.

Polo leg guards—see Shin g.

Polonaise—a short, loose overcoat, worn early in the 19th century, usually fur-faced and trimmed.

Pomade—a perfumed grease-dressing for the hair.

Pomander—a perfumed ball or perfumed powder formerly worn as a charm or to prevent infection; also a box for carrying such perfume.

193Pomatum—sticky grease for making spiky whiskers or love locks.

Pommel slicker—see Saddle coat.

Pompadour—hair brusht straight upward as if scared.

Pompon—the colored ball of wool or felt on the front of a shako.

Poncho—a cape-like woolen or rubber storm blanket, with opening for slipping on head, with or without collar.

Pongee—a soft, natural color, light-weight, plain-woven, washable silk fabric, the warp and weft threads being irregular as hand-spun yarns must be; made from the silk of a wild worm that feeds on oak leaves.

Pontiac—a knitted wool material, practically waterproof, oxford gray in color, made up into camper’s, hunter’s and lumberman’s gloves, shirts, smocks, etc.

Pool retting—decomposition of flax by immersion in pools. See Retting.

Poole cloth—a sort of broadcloth with a face resembling tricot or venetian, named after Poole, a famous London tailor.

Poor relation—one who gets our cast-offs.

Pop-squirt—a jackanapes; an insignificant puppy.

Popinjay—a chattering coxcomb.

Poplin—a sort of light-weight ribbed fabric, having properly a silk warp and a wool filling, tho also made with linen and cotton warp with silk or wool filling, the rib effect being accomplisht by the use of heavier weft than warp; almost always plain dyed, and tho used most largely for women’s wear, is also used for summer coats, garment linings and also when of silk weft, for neckwear, etc.

Poral—proprietary name for a strong, light-weight worsted fabric combining the appearance of cashmere or merino with the feel and coolness of alpaca; woven 60 inches wide and 12 to 13 oz. weight.

Porous plasters—a tenacious medicated p. perforated with small holes and which is further riddled with the stinging wit of the patient when removed.

Porter—the individual who leaves dust on the merchandise, desks and chairs.

Porter’s livery—same as Hall-boy’s l. (qv).

Portmanteau—a capacious article of hand luggage, forerunner of the suit case.

Post—the stem of a collar button, cuff button, etc.

Postman’s uniform—in general, a double-breasted sack suit of gray-blue cloth, the coat with gilt departmental buttons, and on the sleeves a star or stripe indicating term of service; trousers with a narrow welt of black cloth along outer seams; cap to match. In summer, coat and vest may be dispenst with and 194carriers may wear a shirt of light blue chambray, without bosom or plaits, with a white collar; cap of brown straw. In winter, a long double-breasted overcoat of gray-blue cloth.

Postal telegraph messenger’s uniform—see Telegraph m. u.

Postpaid—an inducement for buying by mail.

Pot hat—a derby.

Potash test—see Boiling-out t.

Potay—a name given to a peculiar shape of toe “fashionable” some years ago—transient like most shoe names.

Pouch—(1) a bag-like receptacle for money, handkerchief, tobacco and other personal incommodia; (2) Scotch for pocket.

Poult de soie—see Peau de soie.

Pram pusher—“English undefiled” for a pushcart merchant, one who displays his wares on a perambulator-cart.

Pratt fastener—a spring wire coil or clutch, attacht to the top edge of laced shoes to hold the laces without tying.

Prayer belt—a sort of sash worn by Turks and other Moslems.

Prayer cloth—usually a long strip of scarlet cheesecloth, wrapt ’round and ’round—the winding and unwinding being accompanied by prayers—a sort of Mohammedan sartorial rosary.

Prayer plume—see P. stick.

Prayer rug—a r., often with a pointed device, symbolizing the temple, on which Mahommedans kneel and prostrate themselves, the “temple” and the face being turned toward Mecca.

Prayer stick—a small wand adorned with feathers, used by Zuni Indians in their prayers for rain and other incantations.

Prayer thong—same as Phylactery.

Preaching gown—a loose g. of black silk or woolen stuff, with plain or plaited closed front and wide flowing sleeves with undersleeves and deep yoke back; also worn with cassock cincture and with falling band at throat.

Precious metals—gold, silver, platinum.

Precious stone—general term for the most valuable of gems, as diamond, ruby, emerald, sapphire, etc.

Premium—a bonus given salesmen for selling old or undesirable merchandise. Commonly called “P M”.

Preparing—in weaving, mohair, alpaca and long staple yarns, instead of being carded, are combed or “prepared” by being passed thru slowly revolving rollers and straightening machinery, emerging with the fibers laid parallel ready for the combing machine.

President braid—a trimming b. having short diagonal ribs extending from side to side of the web.

Press brush—a flat b., handled, having a very thick wood back, the reverse side being used as a paddle or pounder to work the steam in.

195Press iron—a tailor’s smoothing i.; a goose.

Press off—tailoring term for the act of pressing a garment after making.

Press rag—a cloth used, commonly dampened, between iron on garment while latter is being prest.

Press stand—an ironing board or stand for pressing garments.

Presser—a workman in clothing factories who presses garments into proper shape by means of hot irons.

Pressing—the finishing operation in garment making—and an attention that must often be renewed.

Pressing board—same as p. stand.

Price (the)—vernacular for money.

Price-mark—hieroglyphic evidence of collusion between seller and his clerks for the purpose of obtaining any price the customer will stand: unless prices are marked in plain figures—in which case part of the salesmen’s occupation is gone.

Price-ticket—a cryptographic joker.

Prick seam—(glove term) see Prix s.

Prick stitch—a tailoring s. used on edges where a stitcht effect is not desired, and when the material is too heavy for either a back s. or side s. The needle is passed entirely thru the material at each s., and returning, repeated from the underside, practically at the same points, leaving only a slight indentation or prick where the s. is laid.

Pricking—a name applied to a particular process in shoe making done by a machine which stamps the indentations around the top of the welt of a shoe where the stitches come. Putting these indentations into the welt is called “pricking up” and is done after the outer sole is stitcht on.

Pricking-back stitch—same as prick s. (qv)—the placing of the s. makes either a back or a side s.; whence name.

Pricking wheel—see Tracing w.

Prickt edge—a variety of plain or blind e. (qv) hand-finisht with a prick stitch (qv) showing a perfectly plain, seamless surface; a felled e. (Pricked e.)

Pride of the West—a standard brand of shirting muslin.

Priest cloak—same as Clerical c.

Prime—see Wool.

Primp—to be fastidious in making the toilet.

Prince Albert—a double-breasted frock coat. See Frock coat.

Print—general trade term for printed cotton fabrics, as shirtings, calicos, etc.

Printed—trade term for fabrics in which the pattern is printed, not woven—usually shirtings, silks, etc., tho satinets for men’s wear are also printed.

196Prison-made—term applied to shoes and other articles made in corrective manual training institutions.

Prison uniform—varies with different institutions, but is commonly a blouse and trousers of heavy cotton drilling in bold black-and-white or gray stripes, running horizontally in the made-up garments, with cap to correspond.

Private stitches—tailor’s term for preliminary s. made at the commencement or completion of a felling, stoating, rentering, etc., to gain a holding before the first or after the last stitch of the real sewing; these private s. are not of any special kind.

Private’s uniform—(army) see Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u., Fatigue u.; (marine corps) Full dress, Undress, Field u. Also variants.

Privy coat—a light coat of mail, once worn under the ordinary attire as a protection.

Prix—French for price.

Prix seam—(glove term) a join in which the two edges are placed together flatwise and sewed thru and thru from the sides, leaving an outwardly extending ridge, mostly used for walking gloves. Also called Out s.

Profits—anything in excess of actual running expenses.

Proof—see Cravenette, Waterproof, Coachmen’s p., Raincoating, etc.

Proportionate figure—in tailoring anatomies, a figure that is in perfect proportion; used as a basis for measurements and variations.

Prospector’s boot—about the same as hunting b. (qv), but usually knee high.

Prunella—lasting cloth.

Prussian collar—a plain, turned down coat c. without revers or lapels, buttoning close up to the throat. Also called falling c. and turndown c. Compare Cadet c.

Pucka—a word in frequent use among the English in the West Indies signifying sterling, of good quality, desirable, etc.

Pucker—to gather into small folds or wrinkles.

Puckered—a wrinkled or cockled condition.

Pudding cravat—a great puffy scarf or neckdressing originally invented by someone to hide a poulticed throat.

Puff—(1) a neckdressing made of a De Joinville or an Ascot scarf, first tied in a broad knot and the ends then crossed over; (2) a readymade cravat of the same effect.

Puff-bosom—a shirt bosom gathered or shirred at upper and lower edges to create a fulness.

Pug nose—see Snub n.

Puggaree—(1) a light scarf around a hat to keep off the sun (Pugree); (2) a turban worn by Hindoos.

197Pull—see String out.

Pull-out—tailor’s term for catching up with one’s work if behind or “in the drag”.

Pulled wool—inferior fleece from sheep that have been slaughtered for food or that may have died from disease or exposure. Also called “Skin w.”

Pulling-over—see Tacking.

Pulse warmer—see Wristlet.

Pumps—low shoes for evening dress wear or dancing, of shorter vamp and lighter than Oxfords (qv), and usually without lacing or other fastening, but commonly ornamented with a bow.

Punching bag—an inflated leather or rubber bag for muscular development, of which ruptured noses and blackened eyes are a characteristic betraying the amateur.

Punching bag gloves—stout leather g., well padded, wholly or partially covering the hands or knuckles.

Punjab—a plastron or flat cravat usually worn by coachmen.

Punjum—a cotton cloth made in Southern India.

Punk—a contemptuous adjectival designation given to shoddy and goods of flimsy character and dishonest construction.

Pure—in leather making, bating material, as dog’s or bird’s dung; bate.

Pure dye—silk term indicating that the least amount of dye that will give a permanent color and finish has been used; not adulterated with impurities to rot fabric or weight the goods; unfading; fast color; washable. Compare Weighted.

Pure dye test—silk to which a lighted match is applied does not take fire, but shrivels up with a dull leaden ash or char, if of pure dye.

Purgatory collar—a peculiar turned over shirt c. of about 1888, somewhat Byronic but more freakish.

Puritan hat—see Round h.

Purity suit—a euphemism of Mark Twain’s applied to suits of white flannel or cloth.

Purse—a bag, pouch or case for carrying money, usually of leather.

Pusher—a sort of slipper or inner sock, consisting of a sole and vamp of soft chamois leather, worn with running and jumping shoes.

Puttee—a legging that looks like a surgical bandage.

Pyjamas—a favored spelling of pajamas.

198

Q

Quadrille—small even squares or checks.

Quaker—a member of a religious sect having strict rules of dress for both sexes—a case of being particular without being dandified.

Quarter—one-fourth of a yard; a unit of measurement for broad goods, such as cloths, sheeting, blankets, etc., which are generally indicated by the signs 4–4, 5–4, 6–4, 8–4, 10–4, etc. Compare Double-width.

Quarter—that part of a shoe or boot, on either side, from the middle of the heel to the line of the ankle bone; the back part of shoe-uppers. See Vamp.

Quarter blood—wool classification term. See Wool.

Quarter lined—tailoring term for coats partially lined, less so than half lined and but little more than “skeleton”; usually a short, light lining extending around the armhole and in a slanting direction to about half the depth of the forepart, merely covering the interlining.

Quarter round—trade term for buttons considerably rounded on the face, but not quite hemispherical.

Quarter Scotch—see Scotch edge.

Queen’s mourning cloth—a black-and-white or pepper-and-salt cassimere; so called from wide usage after death of Queen Victoria.

Queue—a pendant braid of hair on the back of the head, either natural hair or part of a wig; a pigtail.

Quill—(1) a fluted or cylindrical fold, as in a ruff or ruffle; (2) a large, stiff feather.

Quilling—an edge finish of narrow plaits or fluting resembling quills. See above.

Quilt—an outer bed covering.

Quilt—to stitch together two pieces of material, usually with a third or padding fabric between them and generally in some set or ornamental pattern.

Quilted lining—a layer of cotton batting faced on one or both sides with silk, satin or other cloth and sewed together or quilted in fancy patterns.

Quilting—a heavy, firmly-woven, cotton or linen cloth, similar to matelasse, employed for waistcoats, etc.

Quirt—a riding whip with a short wooden or stiff leather handle and a braided rawhide lash or lashes, about two feet long.

199

R

Rabat—a sort of bosom or dicky for hot weather wear under coat without waistcoat or collar, usually of silk, either plain or plaited; worn by Catholic clergymen.

Rabbit—lepus cuniculus, lepus sylvaticus, et al., the fur of which is an important item of hat manufacture and is also used for the cheaper fur garments.

Rabbit foot—used by actors and near-actors to blend grease paints, and by the superstitious as a fetich or omen of good luck.

Raccoon—an American nocturnal procyonoid carnivore of the genus Procyon, related to the bears and beloved by the negroes, the pelt of which is largely used in the manufacture of fur garments, overcoat linings, caps and lap robes.

Racing cap—a close-fitting hood or c. for automobiling, skating, etc.

Racing coat—same as Kennel c.

Racing suit—a leather, cloth or rubber coat and trousers, for automobile wear, so fashioned as to afford unusual freedom of movement and by means of straps or elastics at cuffs, neck, etc., to prevent ingress of wind, rain or dust; the outfit is completed by gauntlets, a racing hat or cap, and goggles.

Rag shears—same as Wool s.

Rag, tag and bobtail—(1) a fluttering rag or tatter, as from a garment; (2) odds and ends of merchandise; (3) ragged or worthless people.

Ragged—needing repairs.

Raglan—a loose overcoat, the sleeves of which continue over the shoulders up to the collar. Named after Lord Raglan, who devised a similar garment for the protection of his soldiers during the Crimean war, the idea being to increase their fighting capacity by the greater freedom of action afforded by the peculiar shoulder. The original coat also had sleeves with cuffs that could be turned down over the hands for warmth; gloves being quite unknown.

Rah-rah—a name given with little respect to the voyant affectations of college boys.

Raider hat—a sort of “rough rider” or sombrero h. (fr. Dr. Jameson’s “raiders”?)

Railroad conductor’s uniform—varies with different roads; most commonly a short cutaway frock coat and flapt hip pockets, outside breast pocket and brass buttons, vest and trousers to match, 200all of dark blue cloth; on some roads the conductors wear double-breasted sack coats, and on others, single-breasted; usually completed with a semi-military cap with insignia.

Railroad seam—tailoring term, same as Cord s. (qv), but stitcht on each side of the join. See R. stitching.

Railroad stitching—in tailoring, a style of edge and seam finishing, consisting of a double row of stitches near the edge or join and a third row at a much greater distance—usually ¹⁄₁₆, ¼ ½ welt; so-called from having originally been a characteristic of r. uniforms.

Rain clothes—(navy) as worn by all enlisted men, consist of hat, coat and trousers of black painted waterproof material, as same pattern as Cape Ann suits. Certain petty officers are allowed to wear a long coat of similar material and style in lieu of the trousers and short coat.

Raincloak—a waterproof cloak.

Raincoat—a mackintosh or waterproof overgarment. See Cravenette.

Raincoat pocket—properly, a vertical p. finisht with a welt or fitted (qv), with an opening thru the lining inside, so that the hands may have access to the trousers or body coat pockets without unbuttoning the raincoat; also made regular horizontal style, opening thru, with outside flaps over the top. See Slasht p.

Raincoating—general name for overcoatings made rainproof by any of various processes, as “Cravenette”, “Cielette”, etc.; generally fine, close woven, round twilled, bare finisht worsteds, usually plain or with a pepper-and-salt effect, and sometimes with a patterned-back.

Rainstick—slang for umbrella.

Raised cuff—a welted effect on a coat sleeve.

Raised seam—see Swell s. and Welt s.

Rake—in certain German settlements, a comb.

Rake-off—graft: know what that is?

Ramie—trade term for the fiber of a nettle-like plant growing in Eastern Asia, of great length, strength, fineness, whiteness and silky luster, used extensivly for underwear, cordage, draperies, etc. Also called rhea, Chinese grass, nettle fiber, cambric, etc.

Ramillies hat—a 1770 military h., the back flap of which turned up sharply, and was not only higher than the crown but higher than the two front flaps, the middle of the front brim being out a bit. See also Cockt h. and Kevenhuller.

Ramillies wig—a w. with a long, gradually diminishing plaited tail tied with a large bow at the top and a smaller one at bottom, the hair bushing out over the ears; first worn in 1706 after battle of Ramillies. Also called R. tail.

201Rand—an irregular shaped slip of leather inserted into a (shoe) heel to fill the gap between sole and lifts. Formerly the term was applied to seams.

Random yarn—weaving term for weft yarns wound around with shorter threads of contrasting color.

Rapier—a light, long, narrow sword with a sharp point, adapted for thrusting rather than cutting; a fencing sword; a dress sword.

Rappee—coarse-grained, dark, strong flavored snuff.

Ratine—an overcoating cloth similar to chinchilla but of finer curl.

Rating badge—(navy) specifically a spread eagle above a specialty mark and a class chevron, differentiated by regulation, worn by all petty officers of the starboard watch on the right sleeve and of the port watch on the left sleeve.

Ratteen—a general name of 17th and 18th centuries for coarse woolen cloths. Lighter fabrics were frequently called ratinets.

Rattinet—see Ratteen.

Rattle—a toy that some grown-ups seem still to need.

Raveling—a thread frayed from a fabric.

Raw-edge—a finish used principally on overcoats of heavy cloths like meltons and kerseys, the edges not being turned in, but sewed thru and thru, then evenly pared or trimmed with knife or shears.

Raw-edge pocket—a p. finisht to match the raw edges of garments so made.

Raw seam—(tailoring) the two parts are placed facing one way and overlapping the required distance and stitcht to correspond with the stitching of the edge. See R. edges.

Raw silk—s. as first reeled into skeins and hanks.

Rawhide—(1) untanned drest leather; (2) a whip made of raw cowhide.

Raye—French textil term for patterns of delicate stripes or narrow lines.

Razor—consult the colored gentleman who tidies up the office.

Razor strop—a flexible strap of leather or leather and canvas for stropping or sharpening razors and for walloping unruly sons.

R. D.—tailor’s term applied to a man who has been imperfectly trained. See Right dress.

Readymade—broadly, any garment or article of apparel ready-to-wear or use; more particularly applied to clothing, as distinguisht from tailoring to order.

Readymader—a word coined by the writer of this book, to describe a maker of or dealer in readymade clothing, and used by him in advertising and pickt up by others, of course.

202Rear admiral’s uniform—see Special full dress, Full dress, Dress, Service dress, Evening dress, Mess dress, Undress. Also see variants.

Rear pockets—hip p.; skirt p.

Rebate—a deduction, drawback, or discount; for expert definitions consult any railroad, oil company or trust.

Rebato—a falling band or collar turned over upon the shoulders.

Receipt—the most complacent part of a charge account.

Recherche—quite correct and elegant.

Red gold—g. alloyed with copper. Compare Green g. and White g.

Red-herrings—red side whiskers.

Red tan—bark tanned. See Tan.

Redingote—a double-breasted outside coat with long, plain skirts; a French corruption of the English riding coat.

Reefer—(1) a short, heavy overcoat or jacket usually of chinchilla, frieze or other heavy cloth, and double-breasted, commonly worn by seamen, cattlemen and others exposed to the weather; (2) a boys’ coat of similar style.

Reefer—a muffler.

Reel silk—technical term for long silk fibers of all classes.

Reference sample—a small swatch of goods for reference purposes, usually about 3 × 5 inches.

Refine cloth—an extra fine dress c. with a nap resembling broadcloth; used principally for livery; also called Dress refines.

Refinish—see below.

Refinishing—the process of steaming, ironing, etc., for restoring the characteristic mill gloss or finish to woolens, worsteds, etc., after shrinking or sponging.

Refund—to (take back goods sold and) give back the money paid.

Regalia—the distinctiv parts of attire, decorations and symbols of a society or order.

Regimentals—loosely, all articles of military apparel; properly, corps or mess uniforms.

Regular—trade term for readymade garments designed to fit persons of normal build; standard sizes, from which longs, stouts, slims, etc., are variations.

Regular cuffs—see Round c.

Regular made—see Full r.

Regular pocket—a horizontal p. such as you will probably find in your sack coat if it is not a freak garment.

Regular seam—see Plain s.

Regular twist—yarns twisted to the right. (Woolen trade.) See Reverse t.

203Regulations—rules of dress prescribed by army, navy and other bureaus.

Re-heel—to put new soles onto footwear, as shoes, hosiery, etc.

Re-sole—to put new soles on shoes, boots, etc.; also stockings.

Reindeer—(1) a fur, more or less authentic, used in glove making; (2) leather ditto.

Reinforced—strengthened by extra layers, strips, welts, gussets or other device of cloth or other material for purposes of strength, wear, etc.

Rejects—trade term for goods rejected for imperfections or for not coming up to standard.

Remnant—any odd length or quantity remaining unsold.

Rentering—tailor’s term for the process of hiding a seam, the stitches themselves being hidden. A plain seam is first sewn to give strength; this is first stretcht open until the sewing is exposed, when a stitch close to the seam is taken, catching but a trifle of the material on one part and a similar part on the other side of the seam, the needle coming out close to the part where it last went in. The seam is next prest out and while the steam is still in the cloth, the nap along it is prickt with a needle point and the nap finally brusht into place.

Repairing—mending, of course.

Repellent—a sort of waterproof cloth of wool, wool-and-cotton or all-cotton.

Reserve stock—merchandise carried in stock-room or warehouse awaiting transferrence to the selling department. Compare Forward s.

Resist dyeing—a process in textil production based on the antipathy of tannic acid to many common dyestuffs; consisting, briefly, in dyeing (cotton, silk, worsted and woolen) yarn in the desired colors and then saturating them in a bath of tannic acid and antimony with an after treatment of tin crystals; the prepared yarns are then woven, according to pattern to be produced, in with regular or “gray” yarn, the resulting fabric being then dyed in the piece, emerging with the prepared yarns showing up in their original colors, in contrast to the “piece dyed” yarn. Compare Batik, Discharge printing, Extracted, Tied-and-dried, Cross dyed, etc.

Retired officer’s uniform—(army) generally, that of his rank when in service, but without certain insignia; they may, at their option, wear the pattern of u. which was prescribed at the time of their retirement, but cannot combine the earlier with the later; (navy) not required to have any other than service dress, if ordered to duty.

Retting—rotting; a process of separating the woody core from the flax fibers preparatory to the operations of spinning, etc; the 204three principal methods being (1) dew retting, (2) pool retting and (3) retting in running water.

Returnable—privilege allowed customers of bringing back purchases for exchange or refund.

Revamp—to furnish a shoe (boot, etc.), with a new vamp or upper; to mend; to patch up.

Revenue cutter service cap—for officers, of dark blue cloth, having a flat top one-fourth to one-half wider than the base, the sides 2½ to 3 inches high, with a band of lustrous black mohair, and a visor of black patent leather except for captains, whose caps shall have visors of cloth decorated with gold soutache, oak leaves and acorns; service buttons, insignia, etc., per regulations. White caps of same pattern as blue c. Similar caps for cadets and enlisted men.

Revenue cutter service overcoat—for officers, a double-breasted ulster of smooth dark blue cloth, reaching to 9 to 12 inches from the ground, and with deep rolling collar, two rows of 7 plain black buttons on each breast spaced equidistant from knee to throat, belt of same material, and hood of same material for night wear or foul weather; marks, insignia and ornamentation as prescribed. For enlisted men, a similar coat, but reaching only to the knee. For cadets a coat similar to that for officers.

Revenue cutter service uniforms—see Dress, Full dress, Service dress, Social full dress, et var.

Rever—a turned back lapel or cuff.

Reverse twist—yarns twisted to the left. (Woolen trade.) See Regular t.

Reversible vest—a waistcoat (vest) made of two fabrics, usually one dark and one light or one quiet and one fancy, either side of which could be worn exposed to suit the occasion; worn to a limited extent in the last ten years of the last century and recently resurrected. See Vestwo.

Revolver—slang terms are numerous: five-shooter and six-shooter, meat in the pot, blue lightning, peace-maker, Mr. Speaker, black-eyed Susan, pill box, my unconverted friend, barker, persuader, etc.

Rhadame—see Satin r.

Rhea—see Ramie.

Rheumatism ring—a r. of magnetic iron, or of zinc and copper, supposed to be a fetich against aches and pains.

Rhingraves—breeches worn by French courtiers some centuries ago, made wholly by loops of ribbon.

Rib—a ridge or cord formed in the groundwork of a fabric, emphasized on the face.

Riband—old spelling of ribbon.

Ribbed—woven, knitted or markt with ribs, cords or ridges, either structurally or in finishing.

205Ribbed Norfolk—name given to a N. jacket (1908) having a continuous set of plaits around the body from yoke to waist, the yoke or upper part and skirt or down part being plain. See also “Stroke coat”.

Ribbon—a narrow band or selvaged strip of silk or velvet. Imagine men nowadays wearing ribbons in quantity—yet they did centuries ago!

Ribbon chopper—fresh term for a salesman in the r. department of a retail store.

Ride—when your tie crawls over your shirt collar, that’s it.

Riding breeches—baggy b. with re-enforced seat, and with cuffs below the knees reaching often below the calf.

Riding cloths—general term for fabrics used for r. breeches, cavalry uniforms, etc., as covert, whipcord, khaki, olive-drab worsted, serge, etc.

Riding coat—a single-breasted frock c. with short, full skirts.

Riding cuffs—leather c. buckling closely around the wrists or over the coat sleeves; often much ornamented; worn chiefly by plainsmen on horseback.

Riding trousers—plain t., with but little leg shape, strapped beneath the shoe, and with re-enforced seat.

Riding whip—a crop.

Rigby cloth—a sort of waterproof c., chemically treated by the “Rigby” process.

Right dress—the wrong way. See Dress.

Right twill—weaving term indicating that the direction of the rib (as of serge, cheviot, etc.) leads from the bottom (goods held lengthwise) upwardly to the right. See Left t.

Rimless spectacles—same as frameless s.

Ring—finger frivolity.

Rip—a tear.

Rip—a pannier or basket for carrying fish.

Rip pocket—term occasionally used for jetted p. (qv).

Rippling—the process of removing the seeds from flax, preparatory to the spinning processes.

Rise—tailor’s term, meaning, from fork (of trousers) to waistline.

River shoe—see Lumbermen’s s.

Roacht—curved upwardly. (Roached.)

Roanoke—a sort of wampum of West Indian shells; currency of early colonial days.

Roast beef dress—English naval slang for full uniform.

Robe—a drest Buffalo skin.

Robe de Calvin—the Geneva gown (qv).

Robe de chambre—a dressing gown or informal morning costume for sybarites.

206Robe de nuit—plain night gown.

Robe maker—a m. of official and ceremonial robes and accessories.

Rochet—a close-fitting vestment of linen, somewhat like a short alb or a surplice with tight sleeves; worn by bishops, abbots and certain privileged canons.

Rocking last—trade term for shoes built with soles curved or turning up from the ground. See Flat l.

Roll collar—a long c. without peak or notch; a shawl c.

Rolled gold—technically, a compound plate having a gold face and a back, or an interior filling, of baser metal; largely used for cheap jewelry. Compare G. filled, G. plated, etc.

Roller towel—toweling sewed together at the ends and hung upon a roller, usually found in offices and shops.

Rolling collar—(1) soft, not stiffened by haircloth; (2) shawl c.; (3) a Prussian c.

Roman gold—satin finisht. See Etruscan g.

Roman stripes—trade term for plain, flat, transverse stripes of varying widths and bright contrasting colors, occasionally popular in neckwear silks.

Rompers—general term for one-piece overgarments worn by very young children at play for protection of their better clothes.

Rondache—a round, Highland defensiv target or shield (obsolete).

Roof—a hat.

Roof test—see Exposure t.

Room—trade term used by clothing manufacturers, denoting an allowance or addition to size, particularly across the chest and blades, over regular patterns, when making up cheap, insubstantial fabrics, such allowance being made to offset strain and give seemingly better wear to the garment.

Rope-stitch—in tailoring a heavier s. than usual,—stouter silk being used, the stitches longer and not so tightly drawn; employed mostly on fancy waistcoats.

Roquelaure—“a short abridgment or compendium of a cloak, which is dedicated to the Duke of Roquelaure”. A cloak without hood.

Rosary—a string of beads, for counting a series of prayers, used by Roman Catholics, Mahommedans, Buddhists, etc.

Rose cutting—term for small diamonds (see Chip) having a flat base with a hemispherical or low pyramidal upper surface covered with small and generally irregular facets.

Rose diamond—a splinter. See above.

Roseberry cloth—a light-weight, closely woven, mercerized, waterproof, lustrous cotton fabric, having a fine round cord weftwise of the goods, resembling fine repps, employed for summer 207automobile garments, raincoats, hunting and fishing capes, etc. A similar cloth, rather heavier, is known as burberry cloth.

Rostrum—facetious for tailor’s block.

Rotten Row—a drive in Hyde Park, London: a resort of the fashionable; from le route de roi (the rout of the king).

Rotting—see Retting.

Rough-and-ready—(1) hat trade term for coarse straws; (2) any garment or article of unusually stout and durable construction and quality; (3) a favorit plug “chewing”.

Rough leather—simple undrest l., as that for shoe soles.

Rough rider—(1) name freely applied to any article of apparel possessing a rough-and-ready military appearance; (2) name of a famous regiment in the Spanish-American war.

Rough rounding—the (machine) process of trimming off and accurately shaping the sole of a shoe.

Round cuffs—detachable shirt c. that button over onto their opposit ends, now being rapidly superseded by link c. (qv).

Round hat—(1) the plain h. worn during Cromwell’s dictatorship; also called Puritan h.; (2) any modern h. resembling or of similar plainness.

Round seam—(glove term) the two edges are placed together and sewed over and over; used only with thin, tough, elastic leathers; also called over-s. and cable s.

Round shouldered—the back rounded or the shoulders stooping.

Roundabout—a short, single-breasted cutaway sack coat or jacket reaching to the waist, worn by boys and young men in the 40’s; later by sailors, mechanics, etc.

Rounding—in hat making, the cutting of brims to the desired pattern.

Rounding gauge—a g. for cutting hat brims.

Rounding jack—a stand or block on which a hat is held while being trimmed round.

Roundsman’s uniform—see Police u.

Rove—a slightly twisted sliver of silk, wool, cotton or other fiber; a slub.

Rove—to join and elongate the slivers of wool, silk or fiber in carding; to draw into thread; to ravel.

Roving—the operation of giving the first twist to thread by machinery. See Drawing.

Roving frame—a slubbing machine.

Roving machine—a machine for winding rovings onto bobbins.

Rowel—the wheel of a spur (qv).

Rowing shirt—a low-necked s. with very large, deep armholes.

Royal bird—see Wig.

Royale—a style of chin whisker, same as Imperial (qv).

Rub stick—a shoemaker’s tool for finishing the bottoms of soles.

208Rubber apron—a sort of apron worn by icemen, carriage washers, dairymen, etc.

Rubber cloth—(1) usually cotton sheeting or drilling with a coating of rubber on one side; used for mackintoshes and sometimes for interlining ulsters; (2) a heavy cotton fabric coated on one side with a composition of rubber, usually stampt in imitation of various leathers and employed in cheap hand luggage, carriage tops, etc.

Rubber heels—lifts attacht to shoe heels for ease in walking; also called sneakers.

Rubber tissue—a thin, gummy substance used to save cost of sewing; it unites cloth on being heated and is most used for trousers hems.

Rubbering—the man who is looking thru this book for something shocking that isn’t here.

Rubberized—trade term for waterproof fabrics having one side of silk or other textil fabric and the other of rubber; also for double-faced fabrics with a center of rubber.

Rubbers—see Overshoes.

Rubbing gloves—see Bath mittens—quite similar.

Rubbing strap—a long, narrow band of knitted wool, terry toweling, etc., for use in the bath—it reaches the back. Also called Bath s.

Ruck sack—a form of pack used by mountain climbers in the Alps and elsewhere.

Rucked—wrinkled, crumpled. (Ruckt preferable.)

Ruff—a plaited, crimpt or fluted collar or frill, especially a very broad, full and stiffly starcht one.

Ruffles—we wore them once on shirt-fronts, at our wrists, and elsewhere—and we might do worse today.

Rug—a heavy shawl carried by travelers as protection against cold.

Rugby toe—one of the numerous shoemaking terms for a medium narrow t.

Rumchunder—an India silk stuff.

Rummage sale—a bargain sale of truck and odds and ends.

Rumple—to wrinkle or muss.

Run—a slipt thread or threads in underwear, hosiery, gloves or other article of similar fabric, resulting in a progressiv widening and lengthening of the damage or “run”.

Runner—a name applied to a certain kind of calf upper leathers, a runner being a grown-up calf or heifer; the term calfskin being applied to a skin that would not measure over fourteen square feet—while a runner might measure three or four feet more.

Running pants—shapeless, light cotton things not reaching to the knees.

209Running shoes—low, soft leather s. with light turned sole, with or without cleats.

Running stitch—a tailoring s. made in a straight line, one in front of another, of various lengths and distances apart, but averaging about ¼ inch each in length; used mostly for basting sleeve linings for try-on.

Rush order—to be gotten out ahead of the usual course.

Russet—coarse, peasant-loomed cloth used in homemade garments, originally of reddish brown color, tho name clings to variations.

Russia leather—a fine quality of calf l. tanned in willow bark, dyed in cochineal and sandalwood, finisht with stannic chlorid and drest with birch-bark oil, having a brownish red color, a fragrant odor and the properties of resisting insects, moisture, etc.

Russian braid—soutache (qv).

Russian collar—a variety of Prussian c. (qv) applied to ulsters, etc.—standing higher, turned down, and meeting in front; also called Cadet c.

Russian duck—a fine quality of white linen canvas, used for hot-weather garments.

Russian marmot—a fur used mostly for coat linings.

Russian overcoat—same as cadet o.

Russian sable—an animal of the weazel family, living in the extreme north of Russia, highly prized for its rich brown fur. See Sable.

Russian turban—a cap with a high round crown and a double band forming the sides.

Russian vest—a double-breasted waistcoat, buttoning close up to the neck, worn in cold weather.

Rusty—said of black which is faded or shows signs of fading.

Ryder—cant for cloak.

S

Saber—a heavy sword with one cutting edge and a thick back.

Saber belt—(army) a waist b. with detachable slings, to be worn outside the full dress coat, by all officers except chaplains. For general officers, except brigadier generals, of red russia leather with gold embroidery and russia leather slings; for brigadier generals, of black webbing with russia leather slings; for all field officers, of black enameled leather with a stripe of gold lace; for officers of the staff corps and departments, except engineers, below 210rank of field officer, of black enameled leather with four stripes of black-and-gold; for officers of cavalry, artillery and infantry, of black enameled leather with four stripes of gold wire lace interwoven with silk of the color of the arm of the service; for officers of engineers, same as for officers of artillery.

Saber knot—(army) for full dress and dress occasions of heavy gold cord with acorn ends, for general officers; and of gold and black mixt for all other officers, except chaplains; on other occasions, of plaited russet leather; all according to regulation pattern.

Sable—an animal related to and not unlike the marten, yielding a dark fur highly prized for winter garments.

Sabot—a rude shoe made of wood, worn by peasants in France and elsewhere.

Sabretache—a leather pocket hung from the left side of the sword belt; a popinjay military ornament.

Sack cloth—a coarse obsolete material doubtless worn for ostentatious penitence.

Sack coat—properly a plain, short c., without skirts, either single or double-breasted, made up of two foreparts and a single or divided back part, and with two or more pockets with in-and-out flaps, tho other varieties of pockets are also employed (as welt, patch, etc.). Also called lounge c. The Norfolk jacket is a variety of sack c., and the Chesterfield overcoat is a true sack c., tho long.

Sack-frock cutaway—a 1908 frock coat resembling a walking frock without a frock waist seam, but having a sidebody seam from a cut waistline to the shoulder.

Sack raglan—see Raglan.

Sacque—an infant’s undershirt.

Sad-color—brown or browny.

Saddle—a padded or cushioned seat put upon a horse’s back out of mercy for the beast.

Saddle coat—a waterproof c. so contrived as to cover wearer, and saddle pommel and cantle; a “pommel slicker”.

Saddle-piece—a re-enforcement of the seat and legs of riding breeches, usually of same material, or, occasionally, of leather.

Saddle seam—a s. sewn as saddlers sew leather, with edges turned outwardly.

Sadra—the sacred surplice worn by Parsees of both sexes from the age of seven; emblematic of the coat of mail worn in ancient times by the Guebers to ward off the attacks of the evil spirit Ahriman.

Safety-pin—our first acquaintance with hardware.

Safety razor—a scraping apparatus for the timid and thin-skinned.

211Sag—to lose shape, give way, bag, pull, etc.

Sagathy—an obsolete woolen stuff famed for durability.

Sahara buck—African deerskin glove leather.

Sail cloth—a sort of canvas once popular for stiffening the fronts of coats.

Sailmaker’s palm—a variety of mitten or glove used by sailmakers and others in sewing canvas and heavy fabrics; commonly a band of sole leather, fitting around the broad part of the hand, with a thumb-stall, and having a metal thimble attacht to the inner side or palm.

Sailor collar—a c. narrow at the front of the neck, reaching back in straight lines over the shoulders and cut straight across at right angles about half way of the shoulder blades, usually as part of a blouse worn by sailors and children; name also given to a detachable linen c. (or of other material) of similar shape, worn by children.

Sailor knot—said of a cravat tied as a four-in-hand, but with the k. drawn tight.

Sailor suit—a s. for small boys, consisting of a sailor blouse and knee pants. Compare Middy s.

Sailor’s blouse—see Naval overshirt.

Sailor’s trousers—similar to ordinary t., except that they are made with front falls (qv) and made to bell or flare out at the bottoms; usually with laced back. Also called gun-mouthed t.

St. Crispin—patron saint of shoemakers.

St. Kilda—a variety of Scotch tweed (from a town of that name).

Sakcorb studs—see Boot s.

Sakkos—a tight-fitting garment, symbolizing the seamless robe of Christ, worn by Greek metropolitans and Russian bishops.

Saleslady—cause of agitation or awe to a masculin customer.

Salesman—an individual deserving of a scientific commission to study his peculiarities.

Sallet—a variety of helmet.

Saltaire—a manufacturing town in England, founded by Sir Titus Salt, a celebrated cloth factor and the discoverer of alpaca.

Sample—a tiny bit of cloth seldom of sufficient size to show a complete pattern; a specimen of any article or material.

Sample book—a b. containing numbered swatches of cloths, often with fashion plates, and frequently platitudinous eulogistic rhodomontades.

Sample trunk—the drummer’s excess baggage.

Sanatory—the Dr. Jaeger spelling of sanitary. See Sanitary wool.

Sandal—(1) a kind of shoe, consisting usually of a sole only, of leather or other material, but sometimes with a shield for the heel and a cap for the toes, held to the foot by thongs, cords, 212etc.; (2) a light, fancy slipper; (3) a light, low-cut rubber overshoe.

Sandalwood—a peculiarly sensuous, aromatic, oriental perfume distilled from the essential oil of santal (which has also certain pronounced medicinal properties).

Sandbag—used by footpads for love taps and lucre.

Sandown—a frock overcoat; a sort of Newmarket (qv).

Sandpapering—in shoe making, the act or operation of “scouring” or sandpapering the bottoms of shoes by means of a roll covered with sandpaper which is rapidly revolved by power, scouring off the surface of the outer sole as one of the preliminary operations for final finishing of the bottom of a shoe.

Sandwich brim—trade term for straw hats having brims of two or more kinds of braid or with an inlay or edging of different color.

Sanitary wool—a profit-making name for natural w. undergarments.

Sans culotte—literally, a man without breeches; particularly, an anarchist or demagog; loosely, a tatterdemalian.

Saranac—general term for buckskin and other leather gloves, tanned grain on, and having a yellow color.

Sarcanet—a fine, thin silk fabric, woven by the Saracens originally and much esteemed during the fifteenth to seventeenth centuries for its richness; probably dates to 13th century; more recently used for linings.

Sarong—(1) a primitiv garment, consisting of a plain piece of cotton cloth wrapt around the hips and upper legs, worn by natives of the Indian archipelago and elsewhere; (2) the printed cotton cloth sold therefor.

Sarsenet—see Sarcanet.

Sartor—a patcher, hence a tailor.

Sartor resartus—the patcher patcht.

Sartorial—pertaining to a tailor or the patching art.

Sartorial solecism—(1) the wearing of any garment out of its proper place, at the wrong time or in an incorrect manner, as evening dress in the day time, colored linen with formal attire, etc.; (2) any violation of good form in matters of dress; (3) any exhibition of bad taste or lack of acquaintance with dress usages; (4) any ostentatious display or vulgarity in manner, form or usage, as freak garments, an unconventional manner of wearing a garment, etc., (5) deficient in dignity.

Sash—(1) an ornamental band, scarf, strip or belt worn around the waist or over the shoulder, as part of the costume and by military officers and others as badges of distinction; (2) in Oriental countries a long band of fine material wound about the head to form a turban.

213Sash—(army) a long strip of silk trimmed with gold fringe, buff colored for general officers above the grade of brigadier generals, and by them worn across the body from right shoulder to the left side; of same for brigadier generals, and by them worn around the waist tied in a double bow; for chief of artillery, of scarlet silk, tied around the waist.

Sashoon—a soft leather pad placed about the leg inside of a boot to protect the limb or aid the fit of the boot.

Sassiety—a sassy bunch of upstarts.

Satchel—a light handbag for small luggage; a schoolboy’s book bag.

Sateen—a fine thread, coarse twilled cotton cloth, of soft texture and glossy finish; used for linings, night shirts, pajamas, etc.; the heavier qualities used for corsets, shoe linings, etc.

Satin—a silk fabric of a thick, close texture, with a smooth, glossy surface and dull back, produced by a method of weaving that reduces the number of crossings of filling and warp, the glossy face being obtained by finishing between hot rollers; also made with a cotton back.

Satin buttonhole—made as described under buttonhole making but using a fine silk twist and making close, even stitches; also known as flat b. Contrast Gimp b.

Satin damask—a s. with a rich flower or arabesque pattern, sometimes raised in velvet pile.

Satin de chine—a fine, soft silk fabric used for linings, etc.

Satin de Lyon—s. with a croise or ribbed back.

Satin delaine—a thin, glossy satin wove woolen cloth.

Satin duchesse—a fine quality of s. of high luster and soft texture, technically exprest as “8 leaf twill”—better see encyclopedia.

Satin foulard—foulard s. with a lustrous satiny face. See Foulard.

Satin merveilleux—a fine twilled, plain dyed s. used for linings, women’s wear, etc. See Merveilleux.

Satin rhadame—an all-silk or silk and cotton lining and dress fabric, plain dyed, the face crost or broken by fine twilled lines extending diagonally across the web; similar to surah but of stouter texture and more luster. See Rhadame.

Satin stitch—a s. in embroidery, either flat or raised, repeated in parallel lines, producing a satiny appearance; used also in fine, handmade buttonholes.

Satin surah—a variety of s. lining silk with a very smooth lustrous face. See Surah.

Satin Turk—a soft finisht, s. face, twilled back silk material, used for waistcoats, linings, shoe tops, etc. Also called Turk’s s.

Satin weave—a smooth, glossy effect achieved by floating the filling (or warp) threads on the face of the fabric, afterward 214slightly gigging, milling and finishing the face to effect a compact, lustrous fabric.

Satine—see Sateen.

Satinet—an inferior variety of cloth, woven, usually, of cotton warp and shoddy weft (which is mixt with enough long wool to enable it to be spun and woven in a way to bring the filling to the surface of the cloth), in manner known as 4-end twill, resulting in a close satiny surface; after weaving the cloth is fulled and often flockt to increase density and weight, next sheared and prest, and finally printed in checks, stripes, plaids, etc., in imitation of cassimere.

Satinisco—satin of a cheap quality.

Satiny—resembling satin.

Satteen—incorrect. See Sateen.

Saw edges—an ornamental finish given to collars, cuffs, etc., by the best laundry in town.

Sawed-off pants—slang for knee breeches.

Saxony—(1) a sort of tweed or fine cheviot, really or allegedly of fine Saxony wool; (2) a long-napt, velour finisht cassimere or other soft finisht woolen fabric.

Say—a light-weight, woolen fabric, similar to serge, used in Europe from 11th to 18th centuries, for men’s wear, afterward employed in this country until the fore half of the 19th century as a lining material, and for shirts, aprons, etc.

Scads—a generic name for money in the West.

Scallop—a 17th century collar or neckband with scallopt edges.

Scallopt—having a series of semi-circular projections or curves along an edge, for ornamental or other purposes. (Scalloped.)

Scamped—made or finisht in a dishonest or indifferent and careless manner. (Scampt preferable.)

Scarf—a cravat.

Scarf fastener—a device, of gold or other metal, often ornamental, for securing a cravat against slipping or loosening, attaching to the shirt bosom that the scarf may not ride up on one’s collar.

Scarf pin—an ornamental p., of gold, silver, etc., for wear with four-in-hand and ascot cravats, often expensivly set with jewels. Commendable if used for fastening a cravat; condemnable if used for ostentation.

Scarf retainer—see S. fastener.

Scarf-ring—a flattened r., in one piece, or with a hinged pin, or hinged and with a spike on the inner side of the back part, thru which a scarf (as the De Joinville [qv] is drawn).

Scarfings—see Cravatings.

Schappe—general term for materials made of spun silk in the gum, i. e., the damaged cocoons and waste products from reeling.

215Schmaschen—leather for gloves made from the skins of still-born kids and lambs; more freely, any inferior glove leather.

School bag—ever hide one to play hooky?

School suit—trade term for boys’ suits of stout fabrics and stout construction to withstand as much grief as possible, and also sufficiently low-price as not to be a matter of remorse when the inevitable tears and smudgings come.

Schooner pants—trousers made with spring or flaring bottoms, after sailor fashion.

Scimitar—a deeply curved, one-edged sword of Oriental countries.

Scotch edge—term used to designate the degree to which the outer sole of a shoe is extended beyond the upper sole where it joins the outer sole. “Full Scotch” designates a very wide extension, and in varying degree. Half s., quarter s., close e. describing the narrower degrees of extension.

Scotch finish—the close sheared or melton finish given to certain heavy woolen cloths; a result of gigging or napping woolen goods in imitation of melton. Compare Bareface f., Velvet f., Dress faced.

Scotch knit—used mostly in connection with woolen mittens or gloves knit, by hand or machine, in Scotch patterns or color effects.

Scotch mixtures—hard to describe; if you don’t know ask a woolen house for samples.

Scotch tweed—the official definition proposed by the South of Scotland Chamber of Commerce is “an all-wool cloth made in Scotland from wool spun in Scotland”, to distinguish from similar goods made, either wholly or in part, elsewhere.

Scoured wool—term applied to tub-washt wool fleece thoroly cleansed with warm water and soap and rinsed in cold water; ready for manufacture.

Scouring—a washing operation by which the grease and dirt is removed from the fleece. See above.

Scouring—see Sandpapering. This (shoemaking) term also applies to finishing the heels, the surfaces of which are sandpapered or scoured before final operations are completed.

Scouring ball—soap mixt with various detergents as oxgall, fullers’ earth, infusolial silica, etc., for removing grease, etc., from cloths.

Scout’s uniform—(army) same as for enlisted men of the corresponding arm of the service with distinguishing insignia.

Scraper—an implement of metal, stone, bone or other material used in dressing hides.

Scrappers—see Barefoot sandals.

Scratch—see Wig.

216Scrim—a thin, plain, open-woven material used largely as an interlining; a sort of cheesecloth.

Scuff—in New England, a light shoe or slipper.

Scuffed—said of leather abraded by rough usage. (Scuft.)

Scutching—in linen manufacturing the process of dressing the raw flax by beating, separating therefrom all woody and foreign matter; in cotton manufacture, the process of separating the fibers after cleansing and loosening by the picker preparatory to carding; in silk manufacturing the process of arranging the floss and refuse preparatory to carding.

Scye—tailoring term for the armhole of a garment.

Scye depth—an imaginary line drawn entirely around the body at the lower level of the arm scye, as from nape to opposit armpit on back seam.

Scye measure—the circumference of the armhole. Compare Closing m.

Sea Island—general term for cotton grown on the islands off the Georgia, Florida, South Carolina and Texas coasts; having a fiber of uncommon length, fineness and silky luster.

Seal—an aquatic animal, the pelts of which are highly prized in the manufacture of fur garments, fur caps, etc.; and the leather in the manufacture of pocketbooks, belts, traveling bags, shoes, etc.

Seal ring—a finger r. with a bezel usually of precious stone, engraved with symbol, arms or monogram, and used as a seal; a signet r.; anciently an emblem of authority, used to stamp documents in place of signature, or its temporary investment in another person gave the power to cut a throat or scuttle a ship or engage in other pleasantries.

Seam—any place where two parts of a garment are sewed or joined together; a “join”. Seams are principally known as plain s., cord s., double-stitcht s., lap s., swelled s., welt s., raw s., strap s., cemented s., braided s., piped s., strapt s., raised s., serged s., open welt s., etc., which see elsewhere.

Seam press stand—a long, narrow ironing board or stand for pressing seams.

Seaman’s shirt—see Naval overshirt.

Seaman’s trousers—see Naval t.

Seamed back—tailor’s term for coats made with a center seam in the back. Compare Whole b.

Seamen’s uniforms—see Dress, Undress, Working; also variants.

Seamless—knitting term for hosiery made on a circular knitting frame and having a seam only at the toe, extra shaping, when required, being effected by steam-shrinking. Compare Full regular.

217Seasoning—a process in leather manufacturing following that of perching and prior to that of polishing; often repeated after first polishing.

Seat—tailor’s term for measurement taken around that prominent part of a man’s anatomy known as chair-warmer.

Seat wheeling—see Heel s. w.

Second mourning—black relieved by white; or dark gray.

Seconds—imperfect goods.

Seconds—see Wool.

Section work—tailoring term meaning made entirely by operators on machines, each operator doing a certain detail or part of the work and then passing it along to another who does something else; no hand tailoring enters into this process, which is employed almost exclusivly for the less expensiv grades of readymade clothing and by cheap tailors. Also called Hand-to-hand made.

Sedan beaver—a fine grade of b. cloth made in Sedan, France.

Seedy—needing refurbishing.

Seersucker—originally a thin linen fabric like gingham; now simply cotton gingham with or without alternate crinkled stripes effected in weaving by varying the tension of the warp yarns; usually in two-color effects, as blue and white.

Selby—an apron for four-in-hand or tandem driving, strapt around the waist, reaching to ankle when standing; named after Jem Selby, a well-known professional whip tooling four-in-hand between London and Brighton.

Selby coat—a short, very full and boxy, double-breasted top c. for driving.

Self-acting rubbers—trade term for rubber overshoes having a small projecting point at the back of the heel, by means of which, held down by the other foot, each (over) shoe may be easily removed.

Self collar—tailor’s term for a c. made of the same goods as body of garment.

Self-figured—a figured pattern achieved in the loom; not printed; generally used in connection with solid color fabrics.

Self measurement—any scheme or method for ascertaining the sizes of garments, etc., ordered by mail, sometimes possible alone, but as often requiring assistance.

Self shank—trade term for buttons with a laterally pierced s., as in pearl, or more loosely, a cloth s., as in covered buttons.

Selling sample—any length of goods or any garment or article from which orders are taken.

Selvage—the web edge of a fabric; list.

Selvedge—same as Selvage.

218Semi-clerical sack coat—the ordinary single-breasted, square-cornered s. c.; usually worn with clerical waistcoat.

Semi-dress—informal d.

Semi-fitting—neither close nor loose; partly shaped.

Semi-frock—the cutaway or morning coat.

Semi-precious stone—valuable, but not sufficiently so to be clast as a true gem.

Semi-ready—proprietary term for readymade clothing provided with ample outlets at necessary places, sometimes left unfinisht at cuffs, and basted with a white thread in various places to give a partly finisht effect. Stores featuring this clothing when controlled by the parent company, are called semi-ready wardrobes, and are mostly located in Canada.

Semi-staple—term descriptiv of men’s wear, goods that are neither wholly in the staple class (as are most plain weave, black and blue fabrics), nor yet may be clast as novelties, as are fancy weaves, bright-colored patterns, etc., but comprising such goods as gray and brown shades in serges, diagonals, etc.

Sennit—a peculiarly plaited straw braid showing serrated edges on one side; a straw hat of such braid; contraction of “sevenknitt”. See Brab.

Separable button—term usually applied to cuff b. mounted on a post to which a clip, screw or lever device permits attachment and detachment of the top or bottom parts, supposedly a convenience for inserting in stiff linen.

Separable stud—see S. button.

Serape—a narrow blanket, usually brilliantly colored, worn over the shoulder or over a saddle. (Mexico, Spain, etc.)

Serge—general name for twill woven fabrics. Suitings are usually of worsted yarn and with a rather flattish, diagonal twill; also made with worsted warp and wool filling; generally plain dyed.

Serge—a lining material of cotton or linen warp and wool or mohair filling, woven three-leaf twill.

Serge de berri—lasting (qv).

Sergeant’s uniform—see Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u., Fatigue u. Also variants.

Serged seams—in tailoring, the edges are basted or “serged” and the seam itself usually stitcht twice, first as a plain seam and then again thru both seam-edges, which are turned one way instead of prest open; mostly used on loosely woven fabrics.

Sergedusoy—a coarse silk stuff of 18th century, used for men’s coats and waistcoats.

Serging—an overcasted stitch employed to hold ravelly edges of seams. See Serged seams.

Seri-culture—silk culture.

219Service belt—(army) see Army b.

Service breeches—(army) for officers: of same material as s. coat, without stripe, welt or cord; cut loose about the seat and above the knees, fitting closely below the knee and extending to tops of shoes, fastening with tapes, laces or buttons; for mounted officers the seat and legs re-enforced with same material; for enlisted men: of olive-drab woolen or khaki-colored cotton material, to match s. coat; cut loose above knee and close-fitting below, fastened with tapes or laces; in general conforming to the pattern prescribed for officers; for mounted use, with re-enforcement or saddle piece, of same material, on seat and legs.

Service cap—(army) for officers: a regulation c. of olive-drab serge trimmed with a band of mohair braid, and with a drooping visor of black enameled leather, with chin strap of same; worn with prescribed badge and with olive-drab uniform by all officers. Also the cotton khaki c. of similar model, but having a detachable top and no band. For enlisted men: of olive-drab serge, conforming to corresponding c. for officers, but without the lustrous braid. Also of cotton khaki, with detachable covers.

Service chevron—(army) for enlisted men: a diagonal half-c. of cloth of the color of the corps, department or arm of service to which wearer is attacht, conferred for service in war, completed periods of enlistment, etc.

Service coat—(army) for officers: a single-breasted sack c. of olive-drab woolen or khaki-colored cotton material, made with 4 outside choked-bellows pockets (2 above and 2 below), without plaits and with buttoned flaps, falling collar; fitting closely at waist and loosely at chest; 5 bronze buttons; in length reaching to one-third the distance to knee; collar and shoulder ornaments as prescribed; officers of general staff corps (except chief of staff) wear a band of ½ inch black braid on sleeve, 3 inches from end; for enlisted men: a single-breasted, straight-front sack c. of olive-drab woolen or khaki-colored cotton material, conforming in design and cut to the service c. for officers, trimmed as prescribed.

Service coat—(navy) for officers: a fly-front, close-meeting, single-breasted c. of dark blue cloth or serge, shaped to the figure, in length reaching to the crotch, with a slit or vent over each hip, and a plain standing collar, the collar, front and bottom edges, side seams and hip vents trimmed with wide silk braid, laid on flat, and beside which a narrow black silk braid is laid; collar and sleeves ornamented with appropriate devices, marks, etc., according to rank. (Revenue cutter service) for all commissioned officers, in general, the same as the service c. worn by naval officers. In warm weather a similar c. of white linen duck, trimmed with white linen braid. For non-commissioned officers, a similar c. without braiding; or a white c. For masters-at-arms, a 5 button double-breasted c. of dark blue cloth with rolling collar; or of blue serge or flannel or white duck in warm weather.

220Service dress—(navy) uniform to be worn when “Uniform B.” is prescribed on occasions of ceremony where officers of navy and army appear together, and at all times not otherwise provided for; consisting of, for all officers, service coat, undress trousers (white may be prescribed), blue cap (white cap or helmet shall be prescribed with white trousers or may be with blue.)

Service dress—(revenue cutter service) for officers, blue or white service coat, blue or white trousers, blue or white cap, sword and black leather belt, white gloves except at sea. Sword and belt omitted on ordinary boarding duty. For non-commissioned officers, a similar uniform without sword or belt and with appropriate ornaments, etc. For seamen, white duck jumpers with wide collars and cuffs trimmed with dark blue flannel; trousers of dark blue cloth, broadfalls style, laced behind; or of white duck of same pattern; blue flannel undershirt, and other garments, ornaments, etc., as prescribed.

Service dress—(army) see S. uniform; (marine corps) Field d.

Service hat—(army) a soft felt h. of regulation pattern, of the color of the s. uniform, with a cord of gold bullion for general officers and of gold and black intermixt for all other officers; and for enlisted men: a soft felt h. of the color of the uniform, of regulation pattern, decorated as prescribed.

Service trousers—(army) for officers, of same material as s. coat, without stripe, welt or cord.

Service uniform—(army) (a) for habitual wear in garrisons, (b) for duty under arms in garrison unless otherwise prescribed, and (c) at drills (when prescribed), target practice, maneuvers, on marches and in the field. For all dismounted officers: (a) s. coat and trousers, s. cap, russet leather shoes; (b) under arms, add s. belt, saber, drab leather gloves; (c) s. coat and breeches, russet leather shoes, leggings, s. hat, s. belt, drab leather gloves, saber, revolver; officers of signal corps wear russet leather shoulder belt with b. and c. when on duty requiring its use. For all mounted officers: (a) s. coat and breeches, s. cap, russet leather boots or russet leather shoes with leggings, spurs, drab leather gloves; (b) under arms add s. belt and saber; (c) same as a. except s. hat and add revolver; shoulder belt for officers of signal corps when required; for enlisted men, dismounted: (a) s. coat and breeches, s. cap, leggings, russet leather shoes; (b) under arms add drab leather gloves, russet leather belt and cartridge box; (c) s. coat and breeches, leggings, russet leather shoes, s. hat, field belt, drab leather gloves. Mounted: (a) s. coat and breeches, leggings, s. cap, russet leather shoes, drab leather gloves, spurs; (b) under arms add russet leather belt and cartridge box; (c) s. coat and breeches, s. hat, leggings, russet leather shoes, spurs, field belt, and drab leather gloves.

Setting the twist—a finishing process in yarn spinning; the act 221of steaming the rovings or twisted worsted yarn so that the twist shall become permanent.

Sew-thru—trade term for buttons made with holes to sew thru. Compare Shank.

Sewing machine—an invention that has made readymade apparel a prodigious commercial success.

Sewing silk—a two-cord thread with a left-hand or reverse twist, so that as the needle goes thru the fabric the thread tightens. See also Machine twist and Buttonhole twist.

Sewings—trade term for sewing silk, cotton and linen thread.

Shabby—pretty well worn.

Shabby-genteel—seedy; of incomplete freshness or outworn fashionableness of attire.

Shackle—leg jewelry, not well thought of.

Shad-belly coat—a name, drawn from the contour of the shad, for a c. of the pattern similar to that now known as a cutaway frock or morning c., but originally with standing collar and buttoning nearly or close to the neck. From the fact that Quakers preferred the shad-belly c. at a time when other styles were popular, they received the nickname of shad-bellies. The term is still used occasionally, referring to the cutaway frock.

Shaded—trade term for goods not running exactly alike, one piece with another of the same number; or varying in the same piece. Compare “Off color” and “Cloudy”.

Shadow check—in weaving, monotone effects of plain design.

Shadow silk—changeable; iridescent. See Changeant.

Shadow stripe—an effect in cloth weaving showing a blended stripe pattern of rather darker or lighter shade than the body-color.

Shadow weave—an effect achieved in the loom by alternate or regular repeats or duplications of the pattern in darker shades of yarn, giving the appearance of reflected shadows; in some goods certain of the yarns are twisted in an opposit or reverse direction, which, woven, assist in the shadow effect.

Shag—a heavy woolen cloth with long nap, used for coats, overcoats, skirts, etc., when the country was young.

Shagrine—an old-time lining material.

Shaker—see below.

Shaker flannel—a plain woven white f., with a cotton warp and wool filling, well napt.

Shaker goods—general term for fabrics, yarns, hosiery, etc., manufactured by the Shaker community, their most important manufacturing settlements being those in New York and Ohio.

Shaker socks—originally a plain, heavy, woolen variety, in natural color or blue mixt, latterly made with a ribbed leg and also so known.

222Shako—a stiff, high military hat or cap with a peak in front and usually a pompon or a plume at the front part of the flat crown; a high fur hat or cap resembling the so-called bearskin; the glory of a drum-major. See Full dress cap (marine corps).

Shalloon—a light, fine, close-woven, worsted or worsted-and-wool fabric, twilled on both sides, usually dyed in plain colors and employed as a lining material, so called from Chalons, France, where first made.

Sham vest—a narrow strip sewed inside the collar of a (livery) body coat, usually of Valencia, extending beyond the collar about ¼ inch.

Shamoying—a process of dressing leather with oil and fatty substances.

Shammy—see Chamois.

Shampoo—a vigorous cleansing of the hair, with soap and water or other adjuvants and much manipulation.

Shamrock linen—a fine, thin, sheer handkerchief l. resembling batiste, woven of 1 warp l. and 1 warp fine sea island cotton alternating and with the same arrangement of weft. Also called pineapple cloth. See Thread-about.

Shanghai—an old term for a tall, lanky dude, swell, or masher. (From Shanghai fowls, a long-legged variety introduced from China).

Shank—that part of a shoe between the tread and the heel; also the steel strengthening piece inserted therein.

Shank—a metal or cloth projection on the underside of a button for sewing thru onto the cloth.

Shankbone—a bone, properly the shankbone of a deer, used to “slicken” or smooth and lightly polish boots which are first drawn on trees, the rubbing of the bone on the surface of the leather imparting sufficient oil for a “finish”.

Shaps—see Chaparejos.

Sharkskin—a name applied to a kind of rain-cloth having a round figure and a glossy back.

Sharkskin serge—a fancy weave s., having some resemblance to chain-weave s.

Sharps—see Needle.

Shaving mirror—a single or triplicate m. that may be adjusted to many angles; a masculin luxury.

Shaving mug—a cup for shaving soap and water.

Shaving soap—a soft emollient luxury unknown to women; supposed to be extra fine and “not to dry on face”.

Shaving stand—a piece of (masculin) furniture having mirrors, drawers, etc.

Shaving stick—a form of shaving soap to be rubbed directly on the wetted bristles.

223Shawknit—a proprietary term for stockings made in rights and lefts.

Shawl—a square or oblong wrap of heavy cloth, plain or patterned, often fringed, worn in place of an overgarment; usually of fine, soft wool and woven with a long nap.

Shawl collar—in tailoring, a c. embraced in plain curved lines, without a notch or step; usually silk-faced when made on dinner jackets, self-faced when on waistcoats, or fur covered when on overcoats; a rolling c.

Shawl pattern—general term for designs taken from Oriental shawls.

Shawl pin—a brooch used for fastening the shawls worn by (usually elderly) men.

Shawl roll—same as s. collar.

Shawl strap—buckled leather straps, single or connected double with a handle, for carrying shawls, steamer rugs, parcels, etc.

Shawl waistcoat—formerly a w. made of a shawl pattern; material usually woolen.

She dragon—see Wig.

Shears—exaggerated “scissors” used by clothing cutters.

Shed—the opening or space between divisions of warp threads (or leaves) in weaving for the passage of the shuttle carrying the weft.

Sheepskin—used, with the wool on, for lap robes, fur coats, gloves, etc.; without the wool, for heavy working gloves, polishing leather, etc.

Sheer—very fine, thin and delicate; gauzy.

Shell—term given to winter overcoats that are lined thruout with fur, the cloth part of the garment being so called.

Shell—see Tortoise; see Pearl.

Shell bag—see Ammunition b.

Shell carrier—see Cartridge belt.

Shellalee—a disused spelling of shillelagh.

Shells—the thin metal discs used in making covered buttons.

Shepherd check—a name given to twill woven suitings, having a peculiar small black-and-white check pattern, achieved by six black and six white, repeatedly, both in the warp and filling directions. Sometimes other colors are used instead of black and white; and frequently a colored thread is used at intervals in either or both directions, for illumination.

Shepherder—a 1907 variation of sombrero.

Sherryvallies—overalls, formerly worn over trousers, to protect them from mud and dust when traveling. The word is probably a corruption of “chevalier”. See Shorrevals.

Shetland—very shaggy overcoating, named as some say after the 224Shetland pony, the coat of which it is supposed to imitate in appearance, or as others say from the coarse wool of the Shetland sheep from which it was first made, and which seems the more probable.

Shield—a sort of fancy dicky or plastron worn with boys’ sailor blouses.

Shield bosom—a stiff shirt b. built up of two or more thicknesses of linen or other material of various fineness, made either in one piece or “open front”.

Shield bow—a b. tie without band, attacht to a shield which fastens by a loop to the collar button and engages the folds of the collar; worn only with turned down collars.

Shillalagh—ask an Irishman.

Shin guard—a sort of shield of rattan reeds sewed into padded leather or canvas, worn around the leg by cricketers, football players, etc.

Shingle—to cut the hair evenly short all-over the head; a “monkey cut”.

Shipping clerk—the chap who makes you cuss a late delivery.

Shirt—a garment worn between underwear and coat (or vest); specifically a sort of loose sack with sleeves and a plain front or with a plaited or shield bosom, usually made of fine cotton and linen fabrics, tho for neglige wear fine woolen and silk materials are also employed. Shirts with shield bosoms are commonly designated dress shirts (whether white or colored), the designation evening or full dress s. distinguishing those entirely of white and particularly with a large full bosom. Bosom shirts are usually made (1) open front, (2) closed front with open back, (3) open front and back, (4) open front coat style, while those with plaited or plain soft fronts are usually made open front coat style. All varieties are made with and without attacht cuffs and white full dress shirts often with attacht collars. All of which, and more, too, you doubtless knew.

Shirt bosom—a sort of bill board for vulgarians to bedeck with diamonds.

Shirt coat—a windproof, dust proof and waterproof “slip-on” overgarment for motor wear, made (somewhat like a poncho) without a front opening, but having an elastic rubber yoke (thru which the head is past) closely encircling the neck, and sleeves provided with wind shields.

Shirt collar—any c., separate or attacht, worn with a shirt, generally known as standing, wing, lay-down, folded etc.

Shirt cuffs—memorandum tablets.

Shirt frill—the ruffle once worn on shirt bosoms, the decadence of which is seriously to be regretted.

Shirt front—a separate bosom or dicky.

225Shirt pin—begemmed bravura now obsolete.

Shirt protector—a sort of muffler, generally shaped, for the protection of dress shirts against dust and ditto the chest of the wearer from colds, etc.

Shirt stud—a button-like sort of fastener for open bosoms, usually of gold with or without settings of precious stones; a similar article for closed bosom shirts usually mounted on a spiral or screw or separable post, by which it is inserted.

Shirting—general term for linen and cotton cloths intended for men’s shirts; usually woven tighter, singed closer and more heavily calendered than when intended for other uses.

Shirting flannel—general term for a large variety of plain and twill woven light-weight soft wool fabrics suitable for outing shirts, etc.

Shirtwaist—a test of masculin fortitude during the summer of 1901 and a while after.

Shirtwaist suspenders—see Invisible s.

Shirty—slang for your state of mind when angry.

Shoddy—cloth made from cheap yarns spun over cotton warp; these yarns are spun from old woolen rags chopt into waste, then carded and spun into threads of various sizes and strength. The cloth is soft, nicely finisht, attractiv in appearance and comparativly free from imperfections; it can be woven into patterns similar to those of the most expensiv woolens, and is a very cheap fabric, often as low as 30c to 15c a yard, and a larger yardage is consumed than of any other kind of goods manufactured for men’s wear.

Shoddy—(adj.) of poor quality; trashy; not genuine.

Shoe—an outer covering or dress for the human foot, usually distinguisht from a boot (qv) by not reaching above the ankle, commonly made of leather.

Shoe—the base or bottom part of a collar button.

Shoe brush—a brush for cleaning or polishing shoes; any of various models, some having daubers and handles attacht.

Shoe buckle—a b. for fastening a shoe by a strap across the instep, or one worn only for ornament.

Shoe button—a small b. that, before the era of patent fasteners, had a habit of dropping off in public, and which still is unable to keep perpetually black.

Shoe buttoner—see button hook.

Shoe horn—a curved metal device, not unlike a surgeon’s speculum, for helping tight shoes onto the foot.

Shoe lace—a fastening that always breaks in public places.

Shoe leather—slang for shoes.

Shoe names—generally those coined, fancy names applied to 226lasts of peculiar shape with peculiar styles of toes; usually of no permanency or value.

Shoe pack—a shoe made like an Indian moccasin, usually of white, oil tanned stock, and formerly worn extensivly in winter in the northern lumber states, but now in limited demand by western farmers during harvest; known since revolutionary times.

Shoe peg—a small tack or nail of wood or metal used for fastening soles to uppers.

Shoe plate—a triangular device of steel affixt to the toe or heel of a s., or both (as of a baseball s.), the ends of which are bent at right angles to the foot, serving to give a firm footing when running, pitching, etc.

Shoe pull—see Heel strap.

Shoe scraper—an iron contrivance once prominent at the side of the steps to a house, used for scraping dirt from the shoes before entering.

Shoe strings—s. laces.

Shoe tie—a s. lace.

Shoe tree—a wooden form for keeping shoes in shape. See Tree.

Shoemaker’s wax—a mixture of pitch and tallow (highly prized by schoolboys for sticking on the teacher’s chair).

Shoestring—a long, narrow black silk necktie.

Shoestrut—a hose supporter for men, made of spring steel wire, attaching to the top of the shoe and the top of the stocking and so worn in an upright position.

Shootin’-iron—the “weepon” for which hip pockets were invented.

Shooting coat—a sack c. or jacket of corduroy, duck, etc., with deep, capacious pockets, worn by sportsmen.

Shooting hat—a low crowned soft h. of corduroy or mackinaw cloth, with a brim that turns up or down behind.

Shooting hose—same as golf h. (qv).

Shooting jacket—see S.-coat.

Shop—store.

Shop-assistant—English term for what we call salesclerk and salesman.

Shop board—the table that journeymen tailors work upon.

Shop cap—commonly, a flat topt, straight-sided c. with a peak, usually of cheap cotton material.

Shop-made—general trade term for garments and other articles made in a shop where modern machinery and labor saving methods are in use—as, for illustration, garments made in a modern factory instead of by highly paid journeymen. Compare Made.

Shopkeeper—a retail merchant, commonly with but small business.

Shoplifter—just plain thief.

227Shopper—a spy in the employ of a rival merchant.

Shopping—“just looking.”

Shopworn—soiled, frayed, rubbed, scuft, barkt, nickt, etc., by handling, dust, accident, etc.

Shorrevals—a sort of pantaloon or legging worn on horseback as a protection against mud, over the trousers or breeches, buttoning on the outside of the leg; obsolete. See Sherryvallies.

Short clothes—a graduation step from the long dresses of early infancy.

Short clothes—the knee breeches of the last and preceding century.

Short collar—tailoring term for a c. put on too short for the gorge of a coat and consequently tight.

Short fly—in tailoring a defect in trousers-making, having a penitential effect upon the wearer.

Short hose—a stocking reaching nearly to the knee, worn by children; the short stocking of the Scotch highlanders.

Short measures—general term for those systems of tailors’ measurements embracing everything comprehended by the long m. systems, but which are divided, in the taking, into two or more separate measurements and also including measurements which zealots of other systems declare redundant. Compare Long m. and Superlativ m.

Short roll—high buttoning; the reverse of long r. (qv). (Tailoring term.)

Short sleeves—general term for undergarments with sleeves reaching to the elbow, or shorter.

Short staple—short fiber, as cotton, wool, etc. (qv).

Short stout—clothing trade term for readymade garments designed to fit corpulent persons of less than average hight. Compare S. and Extra s.

Short vamp—see Long v.

Short wool—fine fleece 2 to 4 inches long. See Wool.

Shorts—early familiar term for knee breeches in contradistinction to long trousers. Compare Longs. See Short clothes.

Shot—(1) textil term for a changeable effect produced by the use of warp threads of one color and weft of another, producing a changeable color effect. See Changeant. (2) Also a textil term for seeded effects, produced usually by a brilliant thread (as silk in a woolen fabric) appearing at close intervals over the face of the goods.

Shoulder belt—a b. passing over one shoulder and about the body on the opposit side; worn as a badge or regalia, or to sustain a weapon, pouch, etc.; a baldric, bandolier, sword b., etc.

Shoulder belts—(army) worn with full dress by officers of the signal corps; for chief signal officer, of red russia leather having 2283 stripes of gold embroidery and field-glass case attacht; other officers, a b. corresponding to their waist b., with field-glass case attacht.

Shoulder cape—loosely, any short or small c., whether worn as a separate garment or attacht to an overcoat.

Shoulder closer—in clothing manufacture, a workman who sews up the shoulder seams of coats.

Shoulder form—a coat hanger or display fixture conforming to the shoulders of a coat.

Shoulder holster—a revolver h. with a breast and shoulder strap, worn under the coat on the left side.

Shoulder knot—a braided ornamental k. of gold lace worn on the shoulder in lieu of strap and epaulet, indicating rank, worn by commissioned officers only; a kind of epaulet without fringe.

Shoulder mark—a strip of cloth about 2¼ × 5 inches, pointed at one end, worn by officers in the navy, distinguishing their rank according to the style and manner of braid and other ornament.

Shoulder measure method—one of various systems of garment measurement. (Tailoring.)

Shoulder piece—(1) a piece over the shoulder joining the front and back of a garment; (2) a shoulder strap; (3) armor protecting the shoulders.

Shoulder pitch—see S. point.

Shoulder point—where the forepart and backpart (of a coat) meet and are seamed at the shoulder, particularly the crest thereof; a term in tailor’s measurements.

Shoulder stick—a shoemaker’s tool for “setting” the edges of soles and heels.

Shoulder strap—a s. of cloth edged with gold lace and bearing certain insignia, indicating rank, etc., worn by commissioned officers in the army and navy. See Regulations for specific information.

Shoulder strap—see Tourist s.

Shovel hat—a low, round-crowned, felt h. with a plain flat brim which is longer in front and behind than at the sides and droops slightly; worn by Roman and Anglican clerics, the latter much modified; the name derived from its appearance.

Show card—a window sign; a study in still li—es.

Show off—an inborn predilection for displaying new clothes, jewels, accomplishments, etc.

Show window—a place where goods are displayed, to be damaged by the sun, for the purpose of supplying occasions for reduced prices in “bargain sales”.

Shower coat—a raincoat.

Shrink—general term for (1) the process of reducing or contracting the length and width of fabrics by means of steam, cold 229water, etc., so that when fashioned into or used as part of any garment or article of apparel, there will be no further appreciable loss; also called sponging (see Sponge); (2) to lose in size in laundering or use; (3) to contract any particular spot or portion of a garment or article of apparel, for purposes of shapeliness, fit or style, by means of a hot iron and water.

Shroud—the last garment we wear; one that the wearer never hurries the maker to complete.

Shushine—proprietary name for a preparation for polishing shoes.

Siberian dog—the fur of a species of dog or wolf found in Siberia; resembles that of a fox in texture. Used for coats, caps, etc.

Sicilian—a plain-woven mohair fabric. See Mohair.

Side-body—tailor’s term for a part of a frock coat, stopping at arm scye and at waist, connecting forepart with backpart.

Side-buckle trousers—t. buckled at each side of the waist instead of behind, the straps and buckle being smaller than on back-buckled trousers.

Side edge—a sort of ornamental welt, placket or rever inserted into the plait seam of the (skirt-) back of skirted uniform and livery coats, variously shaped but usually contrived with 3 points, upon each of which a button is set.

Side leather—a shoemaking term applied to upper leathers made from cow hides which have been split down the backbone, a whole hide making two sides when so split; a term distinguishing certain class of upper l. as compared with calf l.

Side of neck—old name for shoulder point (qv).

Side pocket—the principal trousers p. with opening thru the side seam of trousers. Compare Top p.

Side pocket—a curious name given to a drinking saloon in an out-of-the-way place; a resort for thieves.

Side prick stitch—same as prick s. (qv)—so called from the way the s. is placed. See also Pricking back s.